Lab for a green future BY JULIAN RYALL Fukuoka is not only one of the most liveable cities in the world, but it has pioneered technology that has advanced its green credentials TRAVEL 38 THE CLUB
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Lab for a
green future
BY JULIAN RYALL
Fukuoka is not only one of the most liveable cities in the world, but it
has pioneered technology that has advanced its green credentials
TRAVEL
38 THE CLUB
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Central Park,
also called “Grin
Grin Park”, on
Island City inHakata Bay
was designed
by innovative
architect
Toyo Ito
39 THE CLUB
For years, Fukuoka was widely known as the
closest city that Japan had to Venice. It might
not have enjoyed the splendid architecture,
piazzas or the Basilica San Marco of the Italian
city, but the people of the largest metropolis
on Kyushu, Japan’s most southerly main island,
prided themselves on the carefully maintained
network of rivers that emptied into the grace-
ful curve of Hakata Bay and gave Fukuoka its blue credentials.
Today, however, the capital of Kyushu is forging a new identity
for itself as green complements the blue.
Not satisfied with pioneering a method of semi-aerobic
landfill known the world over as “The Fukuoka Method”, the
city has gone on to implement some highly exacting rubbish-
segregating standards for both homes and businesses. And
it has ambitious plans to turn itself into the world’s first city
to be powered by hydrogen, a project that is under way and
will eventually evolve into a “corridor” of homes and busi-
nesses linking Fukuoka with the larger cities of Osaka, Nagoya
and, eventually, the mammoth Tokyo, some 900 kilometres
to the east.
All that and yet Fukuoka is still regarded as the most pleas-
ant place to live in Japan and among the best in the world. In
its annual quality of life survey in July 2010, Britain’sMonocle
magazine ranked Fukuoka the 14th “most liveable” city on the
planet, thanks in part to its air connections with the rest of
Asia, its low crime rate, sub-tropical climate, excellent public
transport services and cultural opportunities.
City authorities also received high marks for subsidising local
residents who want to install solar-energy systems in their
homes to the tune of USD1.2 million. Elsewhere, funds have
been invested in the creation of green spaces throughout the
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ACROS
Fukuoka
Building has
become a
symbol of the
city’s green
movement
P h o t o s . P r e v i o u s p a g e : P h o t o l i b r a r
y . A
C R O S : E m i l i o A M B A S Z ,
A r c h i t e c t , H o n o r a r y F e l l o w , A m e r i c
a n I n s t i t u t e o f A r c h i t e c t s ( H o n . F
A I A )
40 THE CLUB
urban area and revamping its parks, with special emphasis on
the area around the port district in Hakata Ward.
City elders are also considering a plan to introduce a car-
sharing scheme and are experimenting with renting out
Mitsubishi i-MiEV electric vehicles for free to registered mem-
bers of the public in order to promote awareness of the need
to reduce emissions of carbon dioxide.
The need to be green has been seized upon by many resi-
dents of Fukuoka, where the early stages of the Hydrogen Town
Scheme – known as the Hy-Life Project – are under way.
“I always take my own bag when I go shopping so I don’t
have to use a plastic bag and, of course, I never use disposable
chopsticks, even in a restaurant,” says Tomoko Tatsukawa, 52,
a housewife who lives in neighbouring Itosima city. “I also
pick up rubbish that other people have dropped whenever
I go out for a walk.”
Tatsukawa and her family of four are participating in the
Hydrogen Town Scheme. “I have always been interested in
taking care of the environment and I thought I might be able
to contribute something myself.
“Having our home powered by hydrogen is no different
from using electricity and the change has not been inconven-
ient at all,” she says. “I am really happy to think that what we
are doing is contributing to reducing emissions of CO₂.”
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Hanging
gardens in
the Canal CityHakata complex
P h o t o s . H a n g i n g G a r d e n s : T o n y M c N i c o l
Terms and conditions
Enjoy complimentary AirportExpress tickets on packages toFukuoka
Members of The Marco Polo Club who book any
3-day/2-night Fukuoka package from Cathay Pacific
Holidays will receive two complimentary Airport
Express tickets. Package prices start from HKD3,799
and include:
Round-trip Economy Class or Business Class flight
between Hong Kong and Fukuoka on Dragonair
Accommodation for 2 consecutive nights at
selected hotelsDaily breakfast at selected hotels
Travel insurance
You’ll enjoy the convenience of Dragonair direct f lights
– and a choice of hotels in Fukuoka, Nagasaki or
relaxing onsen resorts in Beppu and Yufuin.
For reservations, please contact Cathay Holidays Limited:
Telephone: +852 2747 4388
Website: www.cxholidays.com
P A R T N E R O F F E R
41 THE CLUB
The Hy-Life Project is a collaboration between the prefec-
ture, a number of city authorities, private companies, research
institutes and universities, with the National Institute for
Advanced Industrial Science and Technology establishing
one of the most advanced hydrogen research and develop-
ment centres in the world on the local campus of Kyushu
University, which is acting as the centre for all research into
the use of hydrogen energy.
The first home-use fuel cell was installed in October 2008
and the concept is remarkably simple. Homes are supplied
with hydrogen to generate electricity that is then used to
power lights and heat water. In parallel, a network of hydrogen
filling stations is being established so drivers can top up their
hydrogen-powered cars, such as Honda’s FCX Clarity.
Hydrogen is already being supplied to some homes.
Japan’s largest steel-maker, for example, makes hydrogen
as a by-product and had previously simply burned it off as
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HOME GENERATORS REDUCE
CARBON DIOXIDE EMISSIONSBY ABOUT 30 PERCENT
Kunihiro
Tonegawa with
the hydrogen
power
generator
outside his
Maebaru home
42 THE CLUB
TRAVEL
waste. Nippon Steel now pipes it to properties in Fukuoka and
the first car-filling stations in nearby Kitakyushu City.
The plan is for a network of more than 5,000 filling stations
to be operational by 2030, with some auto-industry analysts
estimating that as many as 15 million hydrogen-powered cars
may be on Japan’s roads by that time.
For individual properties, Nippon Oil and Saibu Gas Energy
are installing miniaturised hydrogen generators known as
fuel-cell stacks that are small enough to stand unobtrusively
in a back garden. Efforts are under way to make the units
even more compact, enabling them to be sited on apart-
ment balconies.
The generators produce hydrogen through a chemical
reaction between natural gas and water. The aim is to pro-
duce hydrogen from water without the need for natural gas
at all. Through the reaction between hydrogen and oxygen,
sufficient energy is produced to power about 60 percent of the
average family home’s needs. After that, households need to
use the mains electricity again. The designers of the scheme
hope to increase the efficiency of the system and, eventually,
provide all the power that a home needs from the fuel cells.
According to the operators’ calculations, the home genera-
tors reduce both energy consumption and carbon dioxide
emissions by about 30 percent.
Community groups in Fukuoka volunteer to separate
household rubbish into items that are burnable and others –
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Misakigaoka
residential area
of Maebaru
City, known as
Hydrogen Town
P h o t o s . P o w e r g e n e r a t o r , H y d r o g e n T o w n : R o b e r t G i l h o o l y
Terms and conditions
Enjoy a complimentary roomupgrade and more
From 16 February to 15 May 2011, stay at Grand Hyatt
Fukuoka at the Hyatt Daily Rate for a minimum of two
consecutive nights – and you’ll enjoy exciting benefits,
including:
Complimentary upgrade to a Club Room upon
reservation
A 10% discount on food and beverage at hotel
restaurants and bars
Grand Hyatt Fukuoka is located in the heart of Fukuoka city, adjacent to the entertainment and
business district. The hotel is part of Canal City Hakata,
a multi-purpose complex featuring cinemas, a
performing arts theatre, and some 150 restaurants and
shops.
To enjoy this offer, quote your membership number
and promotion code “MP734” when making your
reservation, and present your membership card upon
check-in.
Telephone: +81 92 282 1234Email: [email protected]
Website: fukuoka.grand.hyatt.com
P A R T N E R O F F E R
43 THE CLUB
such as glass, plastics or metal – that can be recycled. They
also prowl the beaches on the outskirts of the city to collect
washed-up rubbish.
A flier distributed by the Fukuoka City Environmental
Bureau encourages residents to follow “The 3 R’s”: reducing
the amount of waste they produce; reusing things they might
otherwise throw away; and recycling everything from old
newspapers to bottles, beer cans and the plastic trays for
food used by supermarkets.
The city has also introduced a system whereby household
waste is collected late at night, partly because unsightly rubbish
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THE CITY’S ENTIRE GREEN
MOVEMENT CAN TRACE
ITS ROOTS BACK TO
‘THE FUKUOKA METHOD’
Fukuoka residents can
rent a Mitsubishi i-MiEV
to gain awareness of
carbon emissions P h o t o s . P o w e r s t a t i o n : J i j i P r e s s / P A
N A . S
h o p p i n g b a g : G e t t y I m a g e s
44 THE CLUB
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is not then left lying around the city during daylight hours but
also to prevent rubbish trucks getting stuck in traffic jams and
emitting unnecessary CO₂.Retailers have taken to the green ethos, with the Canal City
Hakata complex of stores, a cinema, outdoor cafés and a hotel
designed by Jon Jerde to have a canal running through it. The
ACROS Fukuoka Building was dreamed up by Emilio Ambasz
as a stepped emporium that also houses the city’s symphony
hall and has wide terraces that cascade onto the levels below,
reducing temperatures in the hot summer months.
The latest major project is the construction of Island City.
As the name suggests, a 400-hectare patch of reclaimed landin Hakata Bay will be home to businesses and homes when it
is completed. Other municipal initiatives include “eco-town”
projects in neighbouring Kitakyushu and Omuta City, the
recycling of crushed waste from cars and the creation of
the Fukuoka Research Centre for Recycling Systems. But
the city’s entire green movement can trace its roots back to
“The Fukuoka Method”.
In 1966, Fukuoka University began research into landfill
technology to improve the quality of the liquid that
leaches from the waste. In the following years,
working with the city, it was learned that
more air within the landfill not only
enhanced the decomposition proc-
ess and quickly stabilised the waste
thanks to improved activity by
microbes, but that it also reduced
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Fukuoka’s photovoltaic
power station is one of
the largest run by a local
government in Japan(above)
Local shoppers avoid
using plastic bags (left)
45 THE CLUB
the amount of methane, hydrogen sulphide and other gases
that can build up.
The first semi-aerobic landfill development was tested in
1975 and produced less than 50 percent of the greenhouse
gases emitted by a conventional landfill. The model was
subsequently adopted across Japan and in towns in China,
Malaysia, Vietnam and Samoa.
Along with the baseball team – the much-loved Hawks –
the 1.5 million residents of Fukuoka are proud of their place
in green history and most have no desire to swap this peace-
ful and compact city for the bright lights of Tokyo or Osaka.
Where else, they ask, does life get this good?
“When I have free time, I like to go bird-watching along the
coast, at the place where the Japanese islands are across the
straits from the Korean Peninsula,” says Takeo Tashiro, 51, who
has lived in the city for the past 30 years. “You can see many
kinds of migratory birds there in the spring and autumn, but
I also get a sense of our role in the world there.”