Operation Breakdown of a Jacket

COLOUR CODE FOR SEAM DIAGRAMS

Single Ply

Ply with Fusing

301, Single Needle Lock Stitch

514,Four Thread Overlock

304 , Zigzag Lock Stitch

Basting

Blindstich

OPERATION BREAKDOWN

SECTION: (A) FRONTOPERATION NUMBER

OPERATION NAME SEAM DIAGRAM MACHINE RECOMMENDED

STITCH TYPE

WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

A01 SEW GORE TO FRONT SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH

301

A02 SEW TAPE TO ARMHOLE SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH

301

A03 SEW TAPETO SHOULER SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH

301

SIDE POCKETS WITH FLAP:

A04 RUN STITCH FLAP WITH FUSIBLE INTERLINING ON HALF OF THE FLAP

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH

301

A05 TURN AND FORM FLAP TURNING MACHINE OR MANUAL TURNING

A06 MAKE SLIT LASER SLIT MAKING MACHINE/ MANUAL SCISSORS

A07 SEW SIDE POCKET UPPER WELT WITH WELT

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH/ AUTOMATIC WELTING MACHINE

301

A08 SEW SIDE POCKET UNDER WELT SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH/ AUTOMATIC WELTING MACHINE

301

A09 TURN AND FROM SIDE POCKET MANUAL TURNING

A10 SEW SIDE POCKET BAG TO UNDER WELT

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH

301

A11 SEW SIDE POCKET BAG TO UPPER WELT

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH

301

A12 SEW SIDE POCKET BAG

OR

DNLS/ 4-THREAD OVERLOCK

301X2 OR 514

BREAST POCKET

A13 FUSE FUSIBLE INTERLINING ON BREAST POCKET WELT AND FOLD WELT

FUSING MACHINE AND WELT FOLDING MACHINE/ MANUAL FOLDING

A14 SEW WELT AND POCKET BAG TO FRONT

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH OR AUTOMATIC WELTING MACHINE

301, 301

A15 CUT, TURN AND FORM BREAST POCKET

TURNING MACHINE AND SNLS

301

A16 SEW BREAST POCKET BAG DNLS OR 4-THREAD OVERLOCK

301X2 OR 514

A17 BASTE INTERLINING TO FRONT SINGLE NEEDLE BASTING MACHINE

301

A18 FUSE FUSIBLE TAPE ON GORGE AND FRONT EDGE

FUSING MACHINE

A19 FUSE FUSIBLE TAPE ON LAPEL LINE FUSING MACHINE

A20 BLIND STITCH LAPEL TAPE BLIND STITCHING MACHINE

103

A21 FORM FRONT FORM FINISHER

A22 PAD LAPELS AUTOMATIC LAPEL PADDING MACHINE

SECTION: (B) FACINGOPERATION NUMBER

OPERATION NAME SEAM DIAGRAM MACHINE RECOMMENDED

STITCH TYPE

WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

B01 FUSE INTERLINING TO LAPEL FUSING MACHINE

B02 SEW FRONT LINING TO LAPEL SNLS 301

B03 MARK POCKET POSITIONS WORKING TABLE

BRAND LABEL: 1

B04 SEW BRAND LABLE TO SHELL FABRIC PIECE

SNLS 301

B05 SEW SHELL FABRIC PIECE TO RIGHT FRONT LINING

SNLS 301

INSIDE POCKET(RIGHT)

B06 MAKE THE SIDE CUT WORKING TABLE

B07 PLACE FACING ON BOTTOM OF POCKET MARK AND RUN STITCH

SNLS/ AUTOMATIC WELT MAKING MACHINE

301

B08 PLACE POCKET BAG ON TOP OF POCKET MARK AND RUNSTITCH

SNLS/ AUTOMATIC WELT MAKING MACHINE

301

B09 CUT AND TURN TURNING MACHINE FOR WELT POCKET

B10 ATTACH FACING AND POCKET BAG

SNLS 301

B11 SIDE STITCH POCKET BAG

OR

DNLS OR 4-THREAD OVERLOCK

301X2 OR 514

B12 TOP STITCH ON BOTH THE SIDES SNLS 301

B13 MAKE PLEAT OF THE CUT FABRIC WORKING TABLE

B14 CLOSE THE CUT SNLS 301

COIN POCKET(LEFT)B15 FOLD COIN POCKET FOLDING

MACHINE/ MANUAL FOLDING

FOLDER FOR ACCURATE FOLDING

B16 ATTATCH WASH LABEL TO COIN POCKET

SNLS 301

B17 ATTACH BIAS STRIP TO EDGES SNLS 301

B18 ATTACH COIN POCKET SNLS 301

INSIDE POCKET(LEFT): repeat B6-B14B19 TOP STITCH LAPEL SNLS 301

B20 CREASE LABELS LABEL CREASING MACHINE

SECTION: (C) BACKOPERATION NUMBER

OPERATION NAME SEAM DIAGRAM MACHINE RECOMMENDED

STITCH TYPE

WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

C01 FELL BACK CENTER AND SIDE BLIND HEMMING MACHINE

C02 SEW CENTER BACK SNLS 301

C03 SEW TAPE TO NECKLINE AND ARMHOLE

SNLS 301

BACK LINING

C04 PLACE 2 BACK LINING PANELS RIGHT-TO-RIGHT

WORKING TABLE

C05 SEW COMPLETE STITCH SNLS 301

C06 SEW PLEAT FROM INSIDE TILL 1” FROM TOP

SNLS 301

C07 SEW PLEAT FROM BOTTOM SNLS 301

SECTION: (D) COLLAROPERATION NUMBER

OPERATION NAME SEAM DIAGRAM MACHINE RECOMMENDED

STITCH TYPE

WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

D01 MARK STITCH POSITIONS WORKING TABLE

D02 MARK COLLAR BOTTOM ON UPPER COLLAR

WORKING TABLE

D03 FUSE LINING ON UPPER COLLAR FUSING MACHINE

D04 ATTATCH BRAND LABEL SNLS 301

D05 PLACE 2 COLLAR PIECES RIGHT-TO-RIGHT

WORKING TABLE

D06 RUNSTITCH COLLAR SNLS 301

D07 CUT COLLAR POINTS WORKING TABLE

D08 TURN AND FORM COLLAR AUTOMATIC COLLAR TURNING MACHINE

D09 FUSE FUSIBLE TAPE ON COLLAR BOTTOM AND FORM COLLAR

FUSING TABLE

D10 MARK GORGE LINE WORKING TABLE

Section E: Sleeve and Sleeve LiningOPERATION NUMBER

OPERATION NAME SEAM DIAGRAM MACHINE RECOMMENDED

STITCH TYPE

WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

E01 SEW INSIDE OF SLEEVE SNLS 301

E02 FUSE FUSIBLE INTRELINING ON SLEEVE MOUTH

FUSING MACHINE

E03 SEW OUTSIDE OF SLEEVE SNLS 301

E04 TURN SLEEVE WORKING TABLE

E05 SHIRR SLEEVE CUP SNLS WITH DIFFERENT FEEDS/NORMAL SNLS

301

E06 SEW OUTSIDE THE SLEEVE LINING

SNLS 301

E07 SEW INSIDE THE SLEEVE LINING

SNLS 301

E08 FOLD SLEEVE LINING SEAM

WORKING TABLE

E09 TURN SLEEEVE AND LINING SLEEVE INSIDE OUT

WORKING TABLE

E10 PLACE LINING OVER SLEEVE WITH ¼” EXTRA

WORKING TABLE

E11 STICH SLEEVE AND LINING SNLS 301

E12 TURN IT INSIDE OUT WORKING TABLE

E13 PRESS TO FORM PLEAT IRONING TABLE

SECTION F: ASSEMBLYOPERATION NUMBER

OPERATION NAME SEAM DIAGRAM MACHINE RECOMMENDED

STITCH TYPE

WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

F01 SEW FRONT FACING TO FRONT SNLS 301

F02 CUT CORNER OF LAPEL,TURN AND FORM FRONT EDGE

WORKING TABLE

F03 FOLD FRONT BOTTOM TURNING MACHINE

F04 PRESS FROM THE EDGE PRESSING TABLE

F05 BASTE SHOULDER PAD TO FRONT SINGLE NEEDLE BASTING MACHINE

F06 MARK BUTTONHOLE POSITIONS WORKING TABLE

F07 MAKE SLIT SCISSORS

F08 PLACE BUTTONHOLE PIECE BETWEEN FRONT AND LAPEL

SNLS 301

F09 SEW AND TURN SNLS 301

F10 SEW SHOULDER SNLS 301

F11 OPEN SHOULDER SEAM WORKING TABLE

F12 SEW SHOUDER OF LINING SNLS/ZIGZAG LOCKSTICH

301

F13 FOLD SHOULDER OF LINING WORKING TABLE

F14 MARK COLLAR POSITION OF GORGE

WORKING TABLE

F15 SEW COLLAR TO GORGE SNLS (COMPENSATING PRESSURE CAN BE USED)

301

F16 CUT GORGE WORKING TABLE

F17 BLINDSTITCH UNDER COLLAR BLINDSTICH MACHINE

F18 SEW SIDE SNLS 301

F19 OPEN SIDE SEAM PRESSING TABLE

F20 SEW LINING SIDESEAMS AND FRONT LINING

SNLS 301

F21 SEW SLEEVE SLEEVE ATTACHING MACHINE SNLS

301

F22 MAKE WAD SNLS

F23 SEW WAD TO ARMHOLE SLEEVE ATTACHING MACHINE SNLS

301

F24 SEW SHOULDER PAD AND ARMHOLE

SHOULDER PAD ATTACHING MACHINE /SNLS

301

F25 SEW ARMHOLE LINING SNLS

F26 FASTEN ARMHOLE SNLS 301

F27 OPEN ABOUT 1” OF STITCH FROM CENTER FRONT

WORKING TABLE

F28 OPEN ABOUT 2-3” OF LINING SIDE SEAM FROM ONE SIDE

WORKING TABLE

F29 TURN THE JACKET INSIDE OUT WORKING TABLE

F30 PLACE THE LINING 1/4” AHEAD OF THE SHELL FABRIC

WORKING TABLE

F31 SEW PLEAT FROM CENTER FRONT SNLS 301

F32 SEW THE BOTTOM, LEAVING ABOUT 3-4” BETWEEN CENTER AND SIDE SEAM

SNLS 301

F33 TURN THE JACKET AND FROM THE OPENING IN SIDE SEAM, SEW THE REMAINING BOTTOM

SNLS 301

F34 BLIND STITCH THE OPENING IN SIDE SEAM

BLIND STITCHING MACHINE

103

SECTION G: FINISHINGOPERATION NUMBER

OPERATION NAME SEAM DIAGRAM MACHINE RECOMMENDED

STITCH TYPE

WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

G01 INSPECT WORKING TABLE

G02 HAND BLINDSTITCH BACK LINING AND SLEEVE

WORKING TABLE

G03 TRIM THREAD WORKING TABLE

G04 PRESS DIFFERENT PARTS DIFFERENT IRONONG MACHINES AND FORM FINISHERS

G05 FINISHING IRON JACKET FORM FINISHER

G06 MARK BUTTON POSITIONS WORKING TABLE

G07 ATTACH SHANK BUTTONS TO FRONT AND SLEEVES

MANUAL SHANK ATTACHING MACHINE