NY Cooks

NewYorkCooksthe City’s BestChefs100Recipes from

JOAN KRELLENSTEIN and BARBARA WINKLER

Joan Krellenstein and Barbara W

inklerNew

YorkCooks100Recipes from the City’sBestChefs

Michael AnthonyJulieta BallesterosJim BotsacosTerrance BrennanAnne BurrellKen CallaghanJoey CampanaroMarco CanoraScott ConantChris D’AmicoNeil FergusonEric Hara

Neal HardenSam HazenJimmy HendersonJoseph KunstGeorge LangTony LiuAnita LoMichael LomonacoWaldy MaloufPhilippe MassoudMarco MoreiraMarc MurphyAndy Nusser

Patrick NutiMelissa O’DonnellBen PollingerMikey PriceCyril RenaudCarmen QuagliataJose SalgadoJohn SchaeferBill TelepanMark TwerskyAlex UreñaGeoffrey Zakarian

New York Cooks is your must-have guide to the restaurant scene in the city that never sleeps. Now, you can go inside thekitchens of Manhattan’s top restaurants and see first-hand just what’s cooking. From French and Italian, to new and classicAmerican, to Mediterranean and specialty cuisines, there’s awide range of tantalizing dishes for every taste. Also included:

■ full-color photographs throughout■ more than 100 recipes■ interviews with chefs revealing their favorite foods, sources of inspiration, advice for home cooks—even their pet peeves

So reserve your table now with New York Cooksand these great chefs:

Learn the secrets of New York’s best chefsand cook high-end restaurant cuisine at home.

NYCOOK.PLC COVERFINAL.REVISE2.qxd:Layout 1 5/4/09 7:21 PM Page 1

233 Spring Street, New York, New York 10013

Copyright © 2009 by Joan Krellenstein and Barbara Winkler.All rights reserved. No part of this publication may

be reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic,electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying,

recording, or information storage-and-retrieval systems—withoutwritten permission of the publisher.

The written recipes, text and photographs are intended for thepersonal, noncommercial use of the retail purchaser and are

governed by federal copyright laws; they are not to bereproduced in any form for commercial use.

Information regarding chefs, restaurants and addresses werecorrect at time of production. Neither the authors nor thepublisher are responsible for changes in location, situation

or status of any participants or places herein.

Managing Editor: Wendy WilliamsSenior Editor: Michelle Bredeson

Art Director: Diane LamphronAssociate Art Director: Sheena T. Paul

Copy Editor: Kristina SiglerVice President, Publisher: Trisha Malcolm

Production Manager: David JoinnidesCreative Director: Joe Vior

President: Art Joinnides

www.sixthandspringbooks.com

Library of Congress Control Number: 2008936331ISBN-13: 978-1-933027-78-4

ISBN-10: 1-933027-78-9

Manufactured in China1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2

First Edition

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5

1. New American 8GRAMERCY TAVERN Michael Anthony 10

AUGUSTTony Liu 15

TOWN AT THE CHAMBERS HOTELGeoffrey Zakarian 20

DAVIDBURKE & DONATELLAEric Hara 27

UNION SQUARE CAFE Carmen Quagliata 32

ANNISA Anita Lo 38

2. Italian 42ABBOCCATO Jim Botsacos 44

BAROLO RESTAURANTPatrick Nuti 49

CENTRO VINOTECA Anne Burrell 54

INSIEME Marco Canora 60

SCARPETTA Scott Conant 66

GEMMA Chris D’Amico 71

3. Urban Country 76IRVING MILL John Schaefer 78

ALLEN & DELANCEY Neil Ferguson 83

Contents6. Mediterranean & Iberian 162CASA MONOAndy Nusser 164

MOLYVOS Jim Botsacos 170

ALFAMA, FINE PORTUGUESE CUISINEMark Twersky 175

PAMPLONA Alex Ureña 180

PERIYALI Jimmy Henderson 185

7.Specialty Cuisines 190CREMA RESTAURANTEJulieta Ballesteros 192

PURE FOOD AND WINE Neal Harden 197

NOMAD Jose Salgado 202

OCEANA Ben Pollinger 206

ILILI Philippe Massoud 212

TAO NEW YORKSam Hazen 216

■ Index 221–222

■ Conversion Charts 222

■ Photography Credits 222

MARKET TABLE Mikey Price 88

THE LITTLE OWL Joey Campanaro 92

BLUE SMOKE Kenny Callaghan 97

SALT Melissa O’Donnell 102

4. French 108ARTISANAL Terrance Brennan 110

LANDMARC Marc Murphy 116

FLEUR DE SEL Cyril Renaud 120

CAFE DES ARTISTES George Lang 124

TOCQUEVILLEMarco Moreira 129

PICHOLINE Terrance Brennan 134

5. Classic American 140BRIDGE CAFEJoseph Kunst 142

TELEPAN Bill Telepan 147

BEACON Waldy Malouf 152

PORTER HOUSE NEW YORKMichael Lomonaco 157

■ Introduction 6


But even the most avid gourmet can’t eatout every night, and out-of-towners mayhit a Manhattan restaurant only once ortwice in a lifetime. This means that thepossibility of cooking up some great NYCrestaurant meals at home would be adream come true for anyone who lovesfood. So that’s exactly what you’ll find inthis book—over 100 recipes from the city’stop chefs, spectacular dishes that show offthe tremendous creativity these pros haveto offer. Along the way, the book alsodelivers a veritable freeze-frame of theever-changing New York restaurant scene,as well as portraits of fascinating chefs.

You’ll quickly learn that most of the chefsprofiled here are obsessed with finding andserving the finest and freshest ingredients.As Marco Canora, the whiz behindInsieme, emphatically states, “Why makethe effort to prepare a recipe if yourproduce is second-rate?” It’s a mandate heencourages home cooks to follow.

Experimentation is another hallmark ofthese great chefs. While all have theirsignature styles, each is open to newingredients and different cuisines. Theytake risks with their food and emphasizethat amateurs should do the same. CarmenQuagliata of Union Square Cafe puts it thisway: “It’s the failures that lead to thesuccesses.” Indeed, the risks are what make the food on this little island soincredibly exciting. In fact, Jose Salgado ofNomad came to New York because, he

says, “Here there are influences fromeverywhere,” and he wanted to instill thatmagic into his own cooking.

Perhaps most enlightening of all, thesechefs have fun with what they do andmake the point that preparing a recipe isnot a competition, but rather anopportunity to revel in the smells, thetastes, and the resulting alchemy. After all, if disaster strikes, you can always order pizza!

That said, these recipes go far beyondpizza (but definitely check out AnneBurrell’s Taleggio, Speck and Egg Pizzetta on page 56). While some are complicated,they are well worth the effort. Others mayhave a familiar feel, but be assured there’ssomething in every dish that takes itbeyond the ordinary. There are a few exoticingredients involved, and alternate optionsare given. Home cooks will find that eventhe most unusual items are available overthe Internet or at specialty food stores.

Hopefully, most of the chefs featured willstill be cooking at their restaurants at thetime of publication, but in the volatilerestaurant world, who knows? Some mayhave moved on to other restaurants (or tostart their own), to travel the world insearch of fresh ideas and methods, or tocreate great food with New York flair inanother city.

One thing is certain: Wherever the chefs may be, their best recipes are righthere, ready to inspire. ■

6

NewYorkCityIt’s a restaurantgoer’s Eden for both locals and

visitors, with temptation on every corner and menus that promise paradise on a plate.



1 It may seem silly to even think it, but thank

goodness for the 1970s! This was the

decade that ushered in “California cuisine,”

a movement started by Berkeley’s own Alice

Waters and her restaurant Chez Panisse.

Dishes featured fresh, seasonal ingredients

and a type of cooking christened “fusion,”

which blended flavors and techniques from a

variety of cultures. Over the next few

decades, these two concepts grew stonger

and, spurred on by a dose of national pride,

resulted in a new cuisine marked by a sense

of adventure and play. And nowhere are

chefs more accomplished in this type of

cooking than in New York, home to people

from every corner of the globe. The names

of the chefs in this chapter help tell the

story: Lo, Anthony, Zakarian, Hara, Quagliata

and Liu. Individually they create eclectic,

exciting dishes that speak to today’s tastes

and draw on many traditions; together they

represent some of the best New American

cuisine that New York City has to offer.

Depending on your perspective,

New American may not be so

new. For instance, if you grew

up eating garden-ripe veggies,

free-range chicken and dishes

prepared with herbs, spices

and techniques from around

the globe, then this style of cooking is just everyday food.But if you, like many Americansand many New Yorkers, grew up with the processed,frozen and fast foods thatcame to dominance in thiscountry’s postwar years, thenNew American cuisine is a welcome change.

AmericanNew


Geoffrey Zakarian,Town at the Chambers HotelRECIPES

Filet Mignon with Red-Wine Risotto PAGE 22

Atlantic Halibut Loin with Fennel and Blood-Orange Emulsion PAGE 24

Sea Scallop Cru PAGE 26

Eric Hara, davidburke& donatellaRECIPES

Crisp & Angry Lobster Cocktail PAGE 30

Bacon-Wrapped Muscovy Duck Breast PAGE 31

Anita Lo, AnnisaRECIPES

Chilled Tomato Soup with Wasabi, Shiso and Avocado PAGE 40

Pan-Roasted Breast of Chicken with Sunchokes and Meyer Lemon PAGE 40

Michael Anthony,Gramercy TavernRECIPES

Blackfish with Spaghetti Squash, Walnuts and Apples PAGE 12

Rack of Lamb with BroccoliPuree, Cranberry Beans and Bok Choy PAGE 14

Tony Liu, AugustRECIPES

Poussin Paprikash PAGE 17

Roasted Cod and Clam Estofado PAGE 18

Carmen Quagliata, Union Square Cafe RECIPES

Pan-Seared Sea Scallops withSugar Snap Pea Salad PAGE 34

Cara Cara Orange and Bibb Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette and Manchego PAGE 36

Spaghettini Siciliana withFresh Tomato, Anchovy, Chileand Lemon Zest PAGE 37

Carmen Quagliata

August

Geoffrey Zakarian

9

THE CHEF ● THE RESTAURANT ● THE RECIPES


When New York Times critic Frank

Bruni blessed Gramercy Tavern with

a three-star review in June 2007,

restaurantgoers breathed a sigh

of relief. Not so long before, Bruni,

along with other reviewers, had

bemoaned the venerable icon’s

lackluster food and overall slip in

quality. But once Mike Anthony took

the reins, everything changed, and

the restaurant has even garnered a

coveted Michelin star. “It was a

challenge,” the recently anointed

executive chef admits. “I walked

into this beloved restaurant and I

needed to respect its traditions.

My mission wasn’t to change it, just

to make it fresher.”

Michael Anthony

Farm to tableEXECUTIVE CHEF, GRAMERCY TAVERN

10 New American ● Michael Anthony

To that end, Anthony concentrated on sourcing the

very best ingredients. He worked with local farmers to

get the freshest produce, the most flavorful eggs, the

choicest meat. A passionate locavore, Anthony is


us, but the results are quite satisfying,” says Anthony.

Now the kitchen can take a side of grass-fed beef—all

85 pounds—slice up succulent filets, turn the shoulder

into meatballs stuffed with fontina, braise the neck

for a ragu, transform brisket into pastrami and use

ground meat for smoked kielbasa. It’s yet another

important philosophy of the locavore to use every part

of the animal whenever possible. “It pushes us to be

more creative and generate multiple menu items,”

explains Anthony. “The only rule is ‘Don’t get in the

way of the food.’”

Such a connection to the natural food cycle may seem

like a flash to the past, but for this chef it’s the future of

cooking. And his diners are enjoying every last bite. ■

On the side...What do you consider the most overrated ingredient? Foie gras. A great meal doesn’t have to lean on luxury ingredients.

The most underrated ingredient?A potato.

What is your favorite comfort food?Handmade pasta, carefully cooked.

What kitchen gadget is your must-have tool?My Vita-Mix.

If you were not a chef, what would you be?A journalist.

What was the last thing you ate?Lentil stew with shallots that I ate standing up.

GRAMERCY TAVERN42 East 20th StreetNew York, NY 10003212-477-0777www.gramercytavern.com

New American ● Michael Anthony 11

dedicated to knowing the story and the site behind

his supplies. He even arranges for his staff to make

field trips to farms in order to better understand the

dishes they serve. Seeing where and how the animals

live and the vegetables grow is just the beginning.

“For me, cooking always starts with the ingredients.

My goal is to take the food, cook it, put it on a plate

and still have it retain its wonder. I want to maximize

the ingredients to show off their inherent flavors, so I

need top quality,” he states.

So intent is he on seasonality that his menu,

especially the Vegetable Tasting section, has become a

snapshot of what’s currently available at market. In

early spring, for instance, you might find a carrot soup

with spiced cashews, celery-and-lemon risotto with

razor clams, and mushroom ravioli with wild

mushrooms and aged balsamico. And when ramps

appear, watch out! Anthony stretches their

notoriously short season by grilling, sautéing, or

pureeing the greens and even pickling the stems.

Vegetables also play a significant role in the meat

courses; bok choy and broccoli are prime ingredients

in one of Anthony’s favorite recipes, the rack of lamb,

featured on page14.

Anthony’s farm-to-table ethos has also resulted in a

new attitude toward Gramercy Tavern’s meat dishes.

He now buys whole carcasses and has his staff do the

butchering. “This has been a learning curve for all of


12 New American ● Michael Anthony

The recipesBlackfish with SpaghettiSquash, Walnuts and ApplesSERVES 8

Blackfish, found in waters from Nova Scotia to South Carolina, is a lean, white-fleshed fish with a mild taste. Chef Anthony plays up itssubtlety with a sherry sauce flecked with rawapples and toasted pumpkin seeds, then rests iton a tangle of honeyed spaghetti squash.

FOR THE SAUCE2 cups manzanilla sherry1 cup vegetable stock1 teaspoon saffron1 teaspoon mild curry2 tablespoons shallots, peeled and minced1 clove garlic, peeled and mincedSalt and pepper to taste1 tablespoon lime juice1 tablespoon butter3 tablespoons pumpkin seeds, toasted3 tablespoons apple, peeled, cored and minced

FOR THE SPAGHETTI SQUASH1 spaghetti squash, cut in half lengthwise, seeds removedSalt and pepper to taste 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided3 tablespoons walnut pieces1 teaspoon wildflower honey1 teaspoon lemon juice

FOR THE BLACKFISH8 (5-ounce) blackfish fillets, boneless and skinless(substitute bass or halibut if unavailable)Salt and pepper to taste 2 tablespoons olive oil1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed1 sprig thyme

TO MAKE THE SAUCEPlace the first 6 ingredients in a saucepan.

Cook over medium heat until reduced by two-thirds.

Blend with a hand blender until smooth.

Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Add lime juice and butter and stir until butter is melted. Set aside until ready to serve.

TO MAKE THE SPAGHETTI SQUASHPreheat oven to 375°F.

Season squash with salt, pepper and 2 tablespoons of olive oil.

Place squash, cut side down, on a baking sheet and roast inoven for 20–25 minutes or until flesh pulls away from skin (be careful not to overcook, as it is important for thesquash to maintain its texture).

Using a fork, remove squash flesh from the skin and set aside.

On a baking sheet, toast walnut pieces in remainingtablespoon of olive oil.

When nuts turn light brown, remove from oven and place in a bowl. Drizzle with honey and toss to coat.

Add lemon juice to finish.

Fold walnuts into spaghetti squash and season with salt and pepper.

TO MAKE THE BLACKFISHSeason fish with salt and pepper on both sides. Heat olive oil in a large sauté pan with garlic and thyme.

Add fish and sauté, basting with olive oil, until slightly browned but still moist.

TO SERVEJust before serving, warm the sauce and add the toastedpumpkin seeds and minced raw apple. Season again withsalt and pepper to taste. Spoon spaghetti squash ontocenter of each plate. Place fish on top of squash. Spoonsauce on top of fish and also drizzle some around the edges of each plate. ■

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■ Blackfish with Spaghetti Squash, Walnuts and Apples

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