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You’ve chosen to make the throw size version of the Lexington Sampler quilt. Here are a few things I’dlike to point out before you get started in Week 1:
1. Tips On Fabric Selection
• Think of the Lexington Sampler quilt as a scrappy, 2-color quilt using a variety of hues of red prints (the more dominant color group) and a variety of cream/tan prints (the more passive color group). While choosing fabrics for this project, keep in mind that within each color group, there are varying levels of color intensity in this quilt which lend interest to the overall quilt design.
• Consider either replacing the red, dominant-color group I used with another color, or choose a variety of color. Consequently, if you prefer solids, use them. They will work just as well in this quilt design as seen with Ashley’s dynamic gray/white/black version.
• Color projects a sense of visual balance depending on placement. If you wish, treat the thumbnail images on the Yardage Requirements sheet as a guide to help you select similar color variations (dark, medium, light) and design variations (i.e., small prints, dots, florals, stripes) in the fabrics you choose. Choosing variety in color and design adds interest to the look of your finished quilt. However, if you prefer to make your quilt one-block-at-a-time using your stash and without any pre-planning, go for it!
• Included in this PDF is a quilt coloring page to use if you would like to “color” your quilt ahead of time. You will also receive a coloring page with each weekly block pattern. Just like a Paint- by-Number painting, color all A’s, B’s, C’s, etc., alike.
• I chose to make my corner blocks, located in the field of the quilt, as ghost blocks (see flat quilt image). Ghost blocks are made using fabrics that are similar in color value; the fabrics are chosen intentionally to visually divert attention, yet still offer a hint of a block. If this look does not appeal to you, choose fabrics that have more contrast.
2. Purchasing Your Fabrics
• There are 21 fabrics used in my sample quilt; 10 reds and 11 neutrals. If you wish to combine fabrics (for example, you’d like to use a solid white where Fabric A and Fabric Q live in the quilt), simply add the yardage figures together for the combined yardage value (i.e., Fabric A [⅜ yard] + Fabric Q [⅜ yard] = ¾ yard).
• As with all professionally written patterns, yardage includes a small amount extra to account for shrinkage, if you plan to pre-wash your fabrics, and for a potential cutting error.
• If you choose to make the BONUS Block to replace the center Fabric G 15" square, you will see on the Yardage Requirements sheet that you’ll need a bit more of Fabric C and less of Fabric G.
WOF = Width of Fabric: Fabric that measures from selvage edge to selvage edge.LOF = Length of Fabric: Fabric that runs the length of the fabric bolt; parallel to the selvage.
• Pre-cut the following before you begin the Challenge. Instructions are listed on the Yardage Requirements sheet: - Fabric G; Cut ahead of time ONLY if you are using the Fabric G 15" square in the center of your quilt. Please Note: If you will be making the BONUS Block for the center of your quilt, you will only need a small square for one of the blocks.
• When cutting rectangles from fabrics during the Challenge, first cut WOF strips using the lesser of the two dimensions. For example, Block 1 calls for Fabric C; 8 rectangles, 1 ½" x 3 ½". First cut a strip, 1 ½" x WOF from yardage, then cut your 1 ½" x 3 ½" rectangles. If you have leftover fabric from a strip, set it aside for possible use later in the Challenge.
4. Sewing:
• Be sure to use an accurate ¼" seam allowance throughout the Challenge. This will allow for blocks, setting triangles, and borders to fit together well.
• Sew all fabrics with right sides together. Be sure to pin all fabrics together to assist with stability. For smaller patches, first pin each end along the length you’ll be sewing and then the center point. When sewing long lengths together. As with smaller patches, pin each end first, then your center point, and then fill in using pins approximately every 3 inches. As you sew, check to make sure your fabrics haven’t shifted and are still in alignment before they go under the presser foot.
5. The Patterns
• Patterns are broken down into a block per week for Weeks 1-6. However, we will be making two of each block.
• Week 7 is for the BONUS Block. If you choose to not make this block, use this week as a catch-up week, if needed.
• The blocks we will make in Weeks 1-4 and Week 7 measure 15" x 15", finished. Blocks made in Weeks 5 and 6 measure 16" x 16", finished.
• In Week 8, we’ll be assembling the quilt top. Finishing instructions are also included and this concludes the Challenge for the throw.
1. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of (4) Fabric A 3 ⅞" squares. Referring to Diagram 1, place a marked square onto a Fabric B 3 ⅞" square; pin in place. Sew a ¼" seam allowance on each side of drawn line. Cut unit in half on drawn line and press toward Fabric B to make (2) Half-Square Triangle (HST) Units. Make 8.
2. Paying attention to orientation, sew a Fabric C rectangle, 1 ½" x 3 ½", to a HST Unit from Step 1 (Diagram 2); press toward Fabric C. In the same manner, sew a Fabric C rectangle, 1 ½" x 4 ½", to the bottom edge of the unit; press toward Fabric C to make Corner Unit. Make 8, total.
4. Lay out (4) Corner Units from Step 2, (4) Side Units from Step 3, and (1) Fabric E 4 ½" square (Diagram 4). Sew together into rows; press each row, as shown. Sew rows together (press seams open) to make Watermill Variation Block. Make 2.
Diagram 4
3. Sew a Fabric C rectangle, 1 ½" x 4 ½", to the top edge of a Fabric D rectangle, 3 ½" x 4 ½" (Diagram 3); press toward Fabric C to make Side Unit. Make 8, total.
5. Sew Fabric F rectangles, 2" x 12 ½", to each side of the block (Diagram 5); press as shown. Sew Fabric F rectangles, 2" x 15 ½", to the top and bottom edges; press as shown to finish. Make 2, total.