HORTICULTURE NEWSLETTER November 2016 Bullitt County Master Gardeners Meet on the 1st Tuesday of Each Month Next Meeting is December 6th at 7pm Bullitt County 384 Halls Ln. Shepherdsville, Ky 40165 (502) 543-2257 Fax: (502) 543-6940 www.bullitt.ca.uky.edu All classes offered by the Horticulture Program require preregistration. If you fail to preregister classes may be full, rescheduled or cancelled. Please call 543-2257, to RSVP, if you plan on attending a class. IN THIS ISSUE Holiday Cactus Bringing House Plants Indoors Terraced Landscaping Asian Lady Beetles and Boxelder Bugs Plant A Tree Gourds and Pinecones 2017 Class Schedule Will be in the January newsletter Lorilee George Lorilee George Bullitt County Extension Agent for Horticulture Garden Craft Ideas Painted Okra Garden Craft Ideas using Painted Pavers
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November 2016 - Bullitt County 4-H · 2016-12-08 · HORTICULTURE NEWSLETTER November 2016 Bullitt County Master Gardeners Meet on the 1st Tuesday of Each Month Next Meeting is December
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HORTICULTURE
NEWSLETTER
November 2016
Bullitt County Master Gardeners
Meet on the 1st Tuesday of Each Month
Next Meeting is December 6th at 7pm
Bullitt County
384 Halls Ln.
Shepherdsville, Ky 40165
(502) 543-2257
Fax: (502) 543-6940
www.bullitt.ca.uky.edu
All classes offered by the Horticulture Program require preregistration. If you fail to preregister classes may be full, rescheduled or cancelled.
Please call 543-2257, to RSVP, if you plan on attending a class.
IN THIS ISSUE
Holiday Cactus
Bringing House Plants Indoors
Terraced Landscaping
Asian Lady Beetles and Boxelder Bugs
Plant A Tree
Gourds and Pinecones
2017 Class Schedule
Will be in the January newsletter
Lorilee George
Lorilee George Bullitt County Extension Agent for Horticulture
Garden Craft Ideas
Painted Okra
Garden Craft Ideas using Painted Pavers
Enjoying your Holiday Cactus By Dave Puckett/Bullitt County Master Gardener
Around some of
the major
holidays, it is not
unusual to see
lush pots or
indoor hanging
baskets filled
with holiday
cactus. Three
favorite members of the holiday cactus family are
the Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera
truncate), the Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera
bridgesil), and the Easter cactus (Rhipsalidopsis
gaetneri).
At first glance, they all look alike and they do
have a few things in common. Native to the
forests of Brazil, they are all members of the
group of plants called leaf cacti. In nature, they
are epiphytes...plants that ‘grow on other plants
but are not parasitic, such as the numerous ferns,
bromeliads, air plants, and orchids growing on the
tree trunks in topical rain forests’ (OED). Their
plant bodies are, in truth, stems. The flowers are
produced from the notches between ‘leaves’ or
from the tips and last a long time.
There are, however, a few key differences
between the three.
The most
significant
difference, as their
names imply, is
the time of bloom.
The Thanksgiving cactus can bloom in the late
fall about a month before the Christmas cactus.
The Easter variety starts setting flower buds in
February.
Another difference between the three is fairly
easy to see in the shape of their ‘leaf’ segments.
Christmas cactus have smooth rounded edges,
Thanksgiving cactus have pointy, jagged ones,
and Easter cactus is known for the bristles that
can be found on the edge of their ’leaf’ segments.
The Easter cactus flowers are also more star
shaped.
Temperature and Day Length
No matter which of the holiday cacti you are
trying to nurture, there are a few general
considerations to keep in mind. The major items
on the holiday cactus wish list are few and
simple:
Temperature and day length
Watering
Fertilization
Proper soil
Holiday cacti set flower buds in response to
cool temperatures and shortened day length.
Martha Smith, University of Illinois Extension
Horticulture Educator, says that, “Thanksgiving
and Christmas cactus should be left outdoors,
away from artificial light, until night temperatures
drop into the 40s. At this time, they do best at
temperatures between 50 ° and 65 °F. Bring them
indoors and place them in a cool area, keeping
them away from all light between the hours of
5pm and 8am and water weekly. Avoid heating
vents that can cause temperature fluctuations. The
plants should come into flower sometime in
December or January. If you want them to bloom
sooner, start the cool temp/short day treatment
earlier.”
The Easter cactus has slightly different needs.
It requires a dry period. Smith suggests, “from
October to November, very little water is required
for flower bud initiation. Easter cactus should
also be placed in the same cool area under shorter
light periods at this time. In December, raise the
temperature to about 65 degrees and water
sparingly. Expect flowering around March.”
Continued on next page …..
….. continued from previous page
No matter which of the three types you have,
avoid high temperatures and heat changes when
the cactus is flowering.
Watering Water the soil when it is dry to the touch.
Holiday cacti are fairly tolerant of dry, slightly
under-watered conditions during the spring and
summer. Do not allow the soil to become
waterlogged (especially during the winter), but
don’t let it dry out completely either.
Fertilization
Fertilize your plants monthly from the time
new growth begins in the late winter or early
spring, and throughout the summer using a half-
strength water soluble fertilizer such as 20-10-20
or 20-20-20 with trace elements. Holiday cactus
have a higher need for magnesium than many
plants, so you may want to fertilize monthly,
during the growing season, with Epsom salts
(magnesium sulfate), mixed at 1 teaspoon per
gallon of water. Do not apply the Epsom salts the
same week as the regular fertilizer. If you will
stop fertilizing during late summer you should get
better flower bud production in the fall.
Proper soil All of the holiday cacti seem to prefer being
kept somewhat root bound. Repotting is only
necessary about once every three or four years.
When repotting, it is better to repot them in the
spring. The soil should be well-drained with good
aeration. A good soil mix might contain 60-80%
potting soil with 20-40% perlite. Always use a
good brand of potting soil which is pH balanced.
Regardless of your preference of a Holiday
cactus, all three offer abundant rich flowering
and lush green foliage to see you through the
holiday seasons.
Sources:
http://clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/
indoor/flowering/hgic1554.html
http://web.extension.illinois.edu/state/
newsdetail.cfm?NewsID=8570
http://www.hortmag.com/weekly-tips/qa/
easter-cactus-how-it-differs-from-christmas-
cactus#sthash.Jo6jchtP.dpuf
Easter cactus (R. gaertneri)
Thanksgiving Cactus
Christmas Cactus
Easter Cactus
Bringing Houseplants Indoors
If you brought house plants indoors to
overwinter them, here are a few tips on care.
When plants are outside, they require large
amounts of water due to increased light levels,
heat and wind evaporation. When they are
brought indoors, those light levels change as
well as temperatures and evaporation rates. More
houseplants die from overwatering than from
any other cause. Adjusting your watering routine
is essential for the plant’s continued survival.
Most plants benefit when the soil is allowed to
dry slightly between waterings. This dryness
ensures that
oxygen
penetrates to
the plant’s root
system. A plant
can be allowed
to wilt slightly
before it is
watered: thus giving an indication when water is
needed.
When watering, do so thoroughly in order to
moisten the entire soil ball. This leaches away
excess fertilizer salts which can build up and
burn roots. This results in burnt or dried leaf
edges and plants that wilt, even though they
seem to have plenty of water.
Place the entire pot in a container, fill with
water and allow it to soak up water. Then place
in an empty sink to drain for several minutes. Or
you can place the container in an empty sink and
pour water on top of the soil until water begins
to drain from the bottom. Do this procedure
twice.
Keep in mind that some plants, like ferns,
Rex begonias, Prayer Plant and Calatha, require
high humidity to grow well. Since most house
plants are actually tropical plants, they require
high humidity which can be a challenge due to
household heat. Plants can be placed in
bathrooms or kitchens where humidity is higher.
Plants will also require less fertilizer and
should be put through a leaching process
periodically. Mix 1 teaspoon Epsom salts in one
gallon of water. Place the plant in the bathtub
and pour the mixture into the pot, a little at a
time, until the water starts to come out the
bottom drain holes. Allow to drain and repeat
several more times.
Plants should not be put in a window that
receives direct sunlight. Curtain filtered light, or
indirect bright light will keep most plants happy
for the winter. Keep dead leaves removed and
cleaned up around the plants. Also keep an eye
out for any insects that may have moved in with
the plant. Read labels before spraying any
chemicals on plants, to make sure it is safe for
that particular plant. Also keep plants away from
baseboard heaters and from under heat vents.
Source: Nebraska Extension in Lancaster
County/Winter Care of Indoor Plants
Terraced Landscaping
By Janet Jenkins/ Bullitt County Master Gardener
Terracing is a solution when you don’t have
the privilege of living on flat land. If you want
flower beds, a vegetable garden, or just greenery,
you have to learn how to improvise.
I use the process of dry stacking rocks from
the field and creek on my property. This method
was used in Biblical times when they wanted to
separate fields. It has been passed down through
the years by stone masons. Rock can be used, as
shown in the pictures of my property, to make a
dramatic statement. A hammer and chisel can be
used to slice the rocks into smaller pieces. My
dad was a brick layer, and taught me hot to stack
rock. Over the years I have learned to take the
process a little farther.
Starting at the top of the bed area, lay out an
area where you want to start. On each end, drive a
stake in the ground and tie a string to one of the
stakes. Form your work line, by tying string from
stake to stake, forming curves or jagged edges.
Bed shapes are up to you and the possibilities are
endless.
Measure your first rock, and dig out the soil
behind the string. The ground should be level to
keep the rock stable. Do the same with the rest of
your rocks across the length of the bed, keeping
as level as possible. Once you get the first course
laid up, you can add rocks on top to a height of
no higher than 12 inches. If you go any higher
this will cause your wall to topple. After I get my
wall so high, I like to find nice one inch thick
rocks to use as a cap. These will give you a nice
flat surface to sit on when you work in the bed.
I have a yellow lab that likes to run across in
my beds, so I cut dry bamboo canes, that I have
growing on my property, and drive them into the
ground next to the rocks. Rowdy animals can
make your rock walls take a tumble.
If you are making multiple terraced levels,
you will continue the same process. You will
always want to have the rocks connecting up the
side to the front of the previous bed. Black plastic
can be lain up against the rocks to keep soil from
coming through when it rains or when you water.
The soil will need to be leveled by cutting
down at the back part of the bed. The bed can
make a slight downward slope, but if you leave it
too steep, water will wash away your soil, mulch,
and plants and even the lower rock walls. You can
incorporate a good mixture of compost or potting
soil into the existing soil. Once it rains it will
compact your beds so you will have to add more
soil in the future. It is best to plant after a good
soaking rain or soaking with a water hose. This
will give you a good solid base.
You don’t necessarily have to have sloped
land to have a dry stacked flower bed. This type
of bed looks great anywhere. When planting, put
the shortest flowers at the bottom and work
towards the back with the taller plants. This way
you will get to see all of the flowers instead of
some being hidden.
Have fun, start small and dream big.
Resources
http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/
landscaping/implement/retaining.htm
Asian Lady Beetles and Boxelder Bugs
Autumn is here, and so are the bugs looking
for a warm place to spend the winter. Seeing
them outside is ok but when they come inside, we
get concerned. Asian lady beetles and boxelder
bugs are attracted to exterior walls and
foundations of buildings, looking for warmth.
Both insects are harmless and can not breed or
reproduce indoors.
Boxelder bugs are common insects that feed
on sap from leaves, twigs, and seeds of boxelders,
as well as other members of the maple family.
This harmless accidental invader may be a
temporary nuisance as it moves into sheltered
sites to spend the winter.
Adult boxelder bugs are elongate, 1/2 inch
long insects with sucking mouthparts. They are
mostly black with some red markings. There are
three narrow red lines on the segment behind the
head, one down the center and one on each side
and a thin red inverted “V” about the middle of
the back.
Asian lady beetles (not to be confused with
the native lady beetle) are not native to Kentucky.
They were introduced in surrounding states in an
attempt to establish the beetle as a natural control
agent of agricultural pests. They are native to
eastern Asia, where they are an important
predator of scale and aphid pests on trees.
Adult Asian lady beetles are oval, convex,
about 1/4 inch long, and pale yellow-orange-red.
They often have several black spots on the wing
covers, although on some specimens the spots
may be indistinct or entirely absent. Most
specimens have a small, dark, “M” shaped
marking on the whitish area directly behind the
head.
To cut down on the number of insects in the
home, you can start with a barrier pesticide
application on the foundation of the house and
the adjacent foot or two of soil around it, with
something like permethrin or bifenthrine
insecticide. This puts down a barrier that insects
crawl through when trying to get in or on your
house. In severe cases of insects congregating on
outside walls, entire walls can be treated. Just
make sure you test apply the chemical to a small
section to make sure you don’t discolor siding.
If insects are already in the house, the barrier
won’t stop them. Only aerosol products should be
used in the home. The safest of the group are the
ones for flying insects that contain pyrthrins or
their derivatives. These products basically kill
insects that you get the spray on, and the sprays
are inactivated by hitting the wall, floor, or other
surfaces. You can spray the air in a particular
room and vacuum up the dead insects in an hour
or so. Be sure to follow label directions.
For those that don’t like to use chemical
products, the use of sticky boards offer an option
for millipedes and somewhat for boxelder bugs.
Place these in areas where many insects are seen,
such as room corners and under stairs in the
basement. Ceiling lights are the best traps for the
Asian lady beetles. The vacuum cleaner is also a
good option for cleaning insects from draperies
and the like. Mechanical control, such as a
flyswatter, shoe, or newspaper, can leave
discolored marks from the smashed insect, so
keep this in mind when killing the insects.
Source: Asian Lady Beetle Infestation of
Structures/University of Kentucky Ent-64
Asian Lady Beetles and Boxelder Bugs/
University of Illinois: In The Backyard
Plant A Tree
Trees are living organisms and usually live for
many years longer than people do. It is important
therefore to plant trees for special purposes, such
as needed shade, focal points, or even a memorial
to someone. Trees that are native are best for a
natural forest area.
When you are deciding on a tree, there are
many factors to take into consideration. The
purpose of the tree, such as focal point or shade,
will be a factor in how big you want the tree to
be. Consider the soil, surrounding trees and
buildings, drainage, how much light it will
receive, and how many leaves it will shed in the
fall. Detailed information is available from a
publication by the Kentucky Division of Forestry/
The Kentucky Tree Planting Manual.
There are two planting seasons in Kentucky,
spring and fall. Fall planting allows the tree’s
roots to become better established over the winter
and be healthy for the spring budbreak the
following year. Trees are more likely to survive if
they are transplanted when they are inactive, or
dormant. This helps minimize what is called
“transplant shock.” If the tree is trying to grow
new roots and new leaves and carry on
photosynthesis when it is moved from place to
place, there is often too much stress, and the tree
will wilt, or even die. If you plant when the tree
inactive, it has a much better chance of putting its
energy into readjusting to the new site before it
has to grow new roots and leaves.
The rules are slightly different for good-sized
trees and for seedlings. Trees that come with a
ball of soil attached are called “balled and
burlapped” stock. These trees are several years
old, often several feet tall. These trees may need
to be staked by using guy wires or a single long
stake bound directly to the tree. Smaller trees will
need to be protected from ‘critters’, large and
small, by a surround and some sort of protection
of the trunk. Also make sure you mark it so you
know where it is and don’t accidently destroy it
yourself. Mark stakes with paint or flags so they
will not be a trip hazard. To protect newly planted
trees from “frost heaving”, place a 2 or 4 inch
layer of mulch around the base. Make sure it is
not touching the trunk.
Ten important facts to remember:
Make sure you have the right tree for the
location and that the location is right for the
tree.
Choose the right tree for the right purpose.
Contact utility company before your dig. Also
know the location of lateral lines and septic
tanks and cisterns on your property.
Plant properly, know the tree’s needs.
Do NOT put fertilizer in the planting hole.
Water well, letting the water settle the soil.
Watering frequency depends on the soil,
weather and needs of the tree.
A newly planted tree needs only minimal
pruning. Prune out dead, diseased or injured
wood. Do not use pruning compounds.
Stake if needed, but for no longer than a year.
Remember that swaying helps roots establish.
Mulch with 2 to 4 inches of wood chips,
chunk bark, straw, pine needles or shredded
leaves. Do not use plastic that water and air
can not penetrate. Make sure that the mulch is
not touching the trunk, as this can cause rot.
Wrap tree trunks in the fall and remove wrap
in the spring. This prevents winter sunscald
and protects from rodents chewing on the
bark.
Sources:
University of Kentucky/Kentucky 4-H Forestry
Project.
CSU/Denver County Master Gardener/The Ten
Commandments of Tree Planting.
Gourds
Gourds must be ripened, harvested and cured
properly before use. Decorative, bright-colored
gourds need to be harvested before frost, to avoid
the possibility of spoilage. Mature hard shell
gourds are usually left on the vines until after the
first killing frost, but if you plan on saving seeds,
harvest them before they freeze.
Gourds are thoroughly washed or wiped clean
prior to curing. Curing times can vary from 7
days to 6 months, depending on the type and size,
as well as the thickness of the rind. Curing
requires a warm, dry, dark, well-ventilated area.
They should not touch one another during the
curing process and can be placed on screen racks
or hung. Luffa gourds are soaked in water until
the shells can be peeled back and the sponges
easily removed.
Gourds come in many shapes and sizes. They
make beautiful fall decorations and are even
worthy of festivals entirely
in their honor. They can be
used for varied purposes
from water dippers and
storage vessels, to bird
houses and
even qualify
as fine art.
Pinecones
Don’t throw those pinecones away!
Paint them using craft paint, spray paint or
even dip them in left over house paint. Use glitter