Norwegian Cruising Guide Sample Chapter · 2012. 6. 11. · Norwegian Cruising Guide 5 Bodø to Narvik with Lofoten Anchorages, Moorings: This wild and beautiful anchorage has several

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Bodø to Narvik with Lofoten

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Coastal Danger Areas#7 Winds: NW-NE, Current/Tide: N-NE current generally, Depth: In general,

Norwegian Cruising Guide 3

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This area includes Lofoten—the chain of islands separated from the main-land by the Vestfjord—long considered the destination for mariners cruis-ing north Norway due to its stunning mountain scenery and snug anchor-ages. However, equally worth visiting are the spectacular remote anchor-ages, surrounded by snow-capped mountains, of the inshore islands and the narrow fjord systems on the mainland side of the Vestfjord. This cre-ates a dilemma for the sailor with limited cruising time, though it is worth noting that the distances are relatively short in this area. For example, the whole length of Lofoten is only about 120 miles and the width of the Vestfjord ranges from 10 to 40 miles.

If you are not going any further north than Lofoten, you may wish to consider following the order of harbours and anchorages in this chapter starting in Bodø and traveling in a counter-clockwise direction around the Vestfjord, making detours in to the Tysfjord and the Ofotfjord, and up the Raftsund—a channel that leads out of the Vestfjord to the north—to visit the famous Trollfjord. Continuing on to the north through the Raftsund, you could turn west and stop in Laukvik to see the midnight sun before re-entering the Vestfjord through any number of channels further to the south. Or you could retrace your path through the Raftsund, and then sail south down the chain of islands, crisscrossing to the Atlantic side if time allows and you are so inclined, until Skomvær where you can make pas-sage directly to one of the offshore islands around the Arctic Circle, such as Myken or Træna, or to the Holandsfjord.

An option for those of you passing through Lofoten on your way fur-ther north is to make landfall at Skomvær and then work your way north along the chain of islands, exiting the Vestfjord through the Raftsund with a stop at the Trollfjord. On your way back south, you can reenter the

Vestfjord through the Tjeldsund (further east than the Raftsund) and then explore the fjords and islands on the mainland side of the Vestfjord from there.

Vestfjorden, partitioned from the Atlantic by Lofoten, is the world’s richest cod ground, and this determines a great deal of the character of the area. Lofotfisket (the Lofoten fishery), with hundreds of moderate sized fishing boats fol-lowing the cod as they leave the Barents Sea to

spawn in the Vestfjord from January to April, is a major economic as well as cultural and social force. There is also a huge herring fishery during the fall. The outer villages have a rich history and unique character shaped by this means of existence, which was, until recently, a very harsh one. However, during the summer months, the fishing is at a low level, leaving plenty of berthing room for cruising boats.

Tides and Tidal Streams: The greatest spring tides in this area are just over 3 m. HW is 1.5 hours after Bergen. Tidal streams in the Nappstraum, Gimsøystraum and Raftsund peak at 4 knots, flowing north between 2.5 hours before and 3.5 hours after HW. In the narrows of the Raftsund, the north-flowing stream can reach 7 knots with a strong wind. As with tide-races more common in UK waters, the Moskenstraum (the inspiration for Jules Verne’s Maelstrom) can be dangerous with strong wind against tide,

ChartsOverview at 1:350,000: Chart 311. A nice luxury: Charts 319 and 320 at 1:200,000 and Charts 227 and 229 at 1:100,000. The recommended detailed coverage at 1:50,000: Charts 65 to 77. Also recommended at 1:80,000: Chart 230.Chart 461 for Narvik, Chart 462 for Svolvær and Chart 476 for BodøHavneguiden (HG)Vol. 4: Bergen - KirkenesCountiesNordland

This spectacular mountain scene appears when approaching the narrow but deep Svartsund, westbound for the Trollford, taken from the Raftsund.

Dried cod (stockfish) baled and ready for shipping to market.

If this is not your copy, please go to the web site below and buy one. The cost is reasonable and you will be supporting future editions.

©2010 Attainable Adventure Cruising Ltd, all rights reserved. Not to be copied or distributed without the permission of the publisher. 2010 Edition, 1.00, 04/04/10.


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and it is a good idea to avoid the lumpiness in the area between Røst and Værøy by staying a bit to the southeast. The rock-strewn north approaches of the Gimsøystraum are notoriously dangerous with a strong north wind against the tide.

Chapter Organization: The harbours below are listed from Bodø (covered in the last chapter) N and then counter clockwise to the S tip of Lofoten.

To assist in planning, here is a list of those harbours we consider to be the most outstanding. Since we like to hike, many of our choices are based on good walking/hiking in the vicinity: Hamsundpollen, Ørnes, Hellemobotn, Skjomenfjorden, Digermulen, Gullvika, Skrova, Henningsvær, Straumøya, Reine and Røst.

Bodø to Hamarøya

Helligvær (SE Vokkøya)This is a small isolated village in one of Bodø’s outlying skerries. Note sev-eral overhead cables, some charted and some added since chart publica-tion.

Anchorages, Moorings: There are quays and pontoons. The charted anchorage on the 10 m sounding is forbidden due to a

water pipe between the islands. One contributor managed to anchor be-tween the islands at the 9 m sounding just E of the anchor symbol on the chart but found the holding poor and would only recommend this as a fair weather anchorage.

There are a quay and pontoons at NW Sørværøya, with fuel, P.O. and shop.

Osholmen (SW Landegode)The three high peaks of Landegode serve as a landmark which can be seen from anywhere in the Vestfjord.

Approaches: Entry is from the W or N through small islets, and it is worth exploring a bit before deciding where to drop the hook since there are a number of possible anchoring spots.

A calm evening scene at Røst, a working harbour that typifies this area where fishing is still an important part of life.

67°25.6’ N, 13°59’ ELast Visited: 2005Chart: 65HG: Vol. 4: Helligvær

67°24’ N, 14°15.6’ ELast Visited: 2006Chart: 65HG: Vol. 4: Mentioned under Landegode, Sør





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Anchorages, Moorings: This wild and beautiful anchorage has several beaches and many eagles—John Armitage once counted 12 in an hour.

Sandvika (SE Landegode)There are nice beaches and a park area ashore.

Anchorages, Moorings: Though one contributor reported difficulty get-ting the anchor to set in 16 m depth, another reported good holding in 13 m depth in a mix of sand and mud. There is good swinging room and good all around protection from Landegode and a number of small islands and reefs.

Things To Do: It is a lovely walk across to the sand beaches on the W side of the island.

Kjelbotn (NE Landegode)Anchorages, Moorings: This anchorage is often used but is reported to be unsafe at times due to gusts and uncertain holding; there are other options around the island.

VågøysundetNote that there is a charted overhead cable with 15 m clearance at the S end of the Vågøysund.

Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor in 14 m depth in sand with good holding. This anchorage is sheltered from all wind directions except for a narrow sector from the NNE.

KjerringøyA stone breakwater has been added at the N entrance to the harbour, im-proving protection in N winds, and the harbour has been dredged to a minimum depth of 3 m.

Approaches: Approach from the N, passing E of the isolated breakwater and through the mole opening.

Anchorages, Moorings: The visitors’ pontoon is to port as you enter the harbour, by the fuel pump. Berth on the NE side of the pontoon; the inside fingerberths are private. The charge is 120kr/24hrs.

The charted anchorage just S of Kjerringøy has been obstructed with two submerged water pipes, which are not shown on older charts.

For The Boat: Water and electricity are available on the pontoon. Diesel is available with a credit card.

For The Crew: There is a new service building with toilets, showers, laun-dry facilities and a TV room. The supermarket is located just behind the harbour on the way to the museum.

Things To Do: This is a notable 19th century trading port, the grounds serv-ing as a tourist museum with a café. There is a new hotel with a bar over-

67°23.1’ N, 14°18.5’ ELast Visited: 2007Chart: 65HG: Vol. 4: Mentioned under Landegode, Sør

67°25.4’ N, 14°23.5’ ELast Visited: 1996Chart: 65


67°31.3’ N, 14°45.6’ ELast Visited: 2009Chart: 66HG: Vol. 4: Kjerringøy





looking the harbour. Talk to the hotel manager about activities in the area. Apparently there is a sea eagle’s nest on one of the nearby islands that he can point out.

Hjelløya (Karlsøvær)All Karlsøvær and Slovær, just to the N, is a Bird and Nature Reserve, with a Bird Protection Area extended out to 2 km. Between April 15 and July 15 you may approach the shore but not land.

Anchorages, Moorings: The anchorage lies off Kjerringøy in a small, pretty, secluded channel with a sandy bottom. You will need to use two anchors.

Indre VettøysundetAnchorages, Moorings: This is an especially scenic wild anchorage, well sheltered, with wooded hills and eagles. There is good swinging room in 4 to 5 m depth with a sand bottom off the S-most beach.

HelnessundAnchorages, Moorings: There is a charted anchorage in the sound but the swinging area is limited, there is a submerged cable, and the sound is used by ferries. The visitors’ pontoons are only suitable for small boats but it may be possible to tie up to a boat on one of the quays.

For The Boat: There is a fuel station in the village near the quay and an ac-tive boat yard with slip that might be of assistance in an emergency.

For The Crew: There is a good shop in the village.

Things To Do: The trail up to the community hut, Skarbua (alt 650 m), be-gins with a walk of about 6 km along the road that runs E through Leines and then, about 1 km past Leines, turns right up a valley road. Look for the signed path to Skarbua. The path then climbs up through thinning low trees to a grassy ridge over which is the very well-equipped community hut. The tourist office in Bodø carries maps for this part of Steigen Kommune.

If you are interested in swimming, there are some nice beaches in Helnessund.

Nordskot (Grøtøya)In the 2nd Edition of the Norwegian Cruising Guide, this anchorage was referred to as Grøtøya.

The island of Grøtøya nestles in an archipelago below dramatic peaks, on a complex but well-marked channel, which is much easier to navigate than it looks on the chart. Note that the cables over the NW entrance are now posted as having 23 m clearance, not 25 m as on the chart.

After much puzzling and increasingly bizarre suggestions on our part, we were told that the breakwater between the moored boats and the beach at the Nordskot anchorage is for keeping ice off the boats in the spring ice breakup.



67°43.9’ N, 14°46.2’ ELast Visited: 2007Chart: 66HG: Vol. 4: Helnessund

67°50.2’ N, 14°47.3’ ELast Visited: 2009Chart: 67 (inset)HG: Vol. 4: Nordskot





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Approaches: Note that the varde at 67°51.3’ N, 14°47.3’ E has crumbled, making the approach from the N more difficult.

Anchorages, Moorings: A half mile across the sound to the SE from Naustholmen, the small bay off the village Nordskot provides an excellent scenic anchorage, sheltered except from the N, in 9.1 m charted depth, with good holding in firm sand. The substantial pontoon by the shop is available for visiting boats; however, it is exposed to N winds. The charge is 100kr/24hrs. There are 4 blue mooring buoys, with yellow pick ups, marked Guest Buoy; further details not known.

There are several pleasant tiny sandy channels for anchorage S of Grøtøya, notably near Andersøya at 67°49’ N, 14°44’ E.

For The Boat: Fuel is available from the shop during opening hours. Water and electricity are available on the pontoon.

For The Crew: There is a small well-stocked grocery store by the ferry pier and toilets and showers are available during shop opening hours.

Things To Do: At the SE side of Naustholmen lies a notable historic trading centre with a museum (closed in 2007). There is a small floating dock for access to the museum. There are fine views from the hilltop path and na-ture walks on Naustholmen. This is a good place to observe the midnight sun from your boat as there are no obstructing hills.

Trolløya/BrennøyaApproaches: You can approach from the N or the S as charted.

Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor in 3 to 5 m depth in sand. As swinging room is limited, you will either need to use 2 anchors or run lines to the shore.

Looking northeast across the harbour at Nordskot from the hill on Grøtøya.

Looking east over the anchorage at Trolløya/Brennøya.

67°56.8’ N, 14°53’ ELast Visited: 2006Chart: 68





Røssøya (SW Engeløya)This is a small harbour in the skerries.

Anchorages, Moorings: Visitors can moor alongside the pontoon inside the mole, marked Gjesteplasser. The charge is 150kr/24hrs.

There are numerous anchoring possibilities in the sandy-bottomed wa-ters among the nearby skerries. In fair weather it is pleasant to anchor between Flatøya and lille Flatøya, 3.7 miles to the W, and explore the aban-doned lighthouse facility.

For The Crew: There are toilets and showers available.

Things To Do: You can rent bicycles to visit the historical sites in the area: Steigen Kirke (a church from the Middle Ages) and the Steigen Museum Șare located on the SW side of Engeløya.The Løvøy Old Commercial Center has guided tours including a nature Șwalk, located on Løvøy, just to the W of Røssøya.For more information on sites in the area, see www.steigen.kommune.

no (in Norwegian only).

TørrisnesetAnchorages, Moorings: There is good swing room and holding in 12 m depth in this large bay.

Bogen (Flagsundet)Approaches: If approaching from the W, turn S just E of the bridge (Den Norske Los reports a vertical clearance of 25 m, though a local ferry captain reported it as 23 m) between the mainland and Engeløya. Pass E of the beacon (G Fl lt) and W of the red buoy. There is 5 m depth in the approach-es. (Note that the beacon and buoy are not primarily intended as markers to Bogen harbour, hence the colour scheme appears to be the wrong way around for the approach.) If approaching from the E, stay in deep water N along Oterodden.

Anchorages, Moorings: There are two pontoons: Smaller visiting boats may moor at the end of the outer pontoon where Șthere is 5 m depth, or enquire about vacant finger berths. There is limited space for manoeuvering inside the first pontoon. Larger boats may moor alongside the old ferry jetty, where it is deep on Șboth sides but with limited room for manoeuvring on the inside. The charge is 70kr/night. There is an honesty box on the wall of the

Bogenes Båtforening clubhouse. The large dock with tyres is used by the express boat.

For The Boat: There is water on the pontoon and electricity is available upon request.

For The Crew: Groceries are available up the road. Toilets and showers are available at the pontoon.

67°55.1’ N, 14°56’ ELast Visited: 2009Charts: 67, 68HG: Vol. 4: Røssøya


67°54’ N, 15°11.6’ ELast Visited: 2009Chart: 68HG: Vol. 4: Bogen i Steigen





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http://www.steigen.kommune.nohttp://www.steigen.kommune.nohttp://www.norwegiancruisingguide.com


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Things To Do: For an idea of how SW winter gales funnel fierce gusts down over the village, have a look at the way the old wooden church is construct-ed: The roof on the SW wall is firmly attached to the ground with solid rod tie bars! They occasionally have live music in the pub in the old butchery on the docks, open weekends only.

Ankersvågen (SE Engeløya)This peaceful anchorage is located in pastoral surroundings with bell-be-decked sheep tinkling their way over the grassy slopes.

Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor well into the cove in 14 m depth with good swinging room and good shelter in this very spacious anchorage.

Looking west over S/V Drott II an-chored at Trollvika, with Engeløya in the background (next page).

Røtnesvågen (NE Engeløya)Anchorages, Moorings: There is good holding in this anchorage open to the NE but otherwise sheltered.

Hakvåg (NE Engeløya)While Hakvåg may not have the beauty of the anchorages on Lundøya and Hamarøya, it is accessible in all weather conditions; however, the increas-ing number of private moorings make this a less desirable anchorage than previously.

Approaches: From Skagstadsundet, pass W of the perch on Oddskjæret and E of the next perch. Both perches have pointers. When passing through the narrow final part of the approach, keep to the S. You will find deeper water there than the charted 2 m.

67°55’ N, 15°14.5’ ELast Visited: 2007Chart: 68

67°56’ N, 15°16’ ELast Visited: 2003Chart: 68






Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor in 7 to 8 m depth N in the bay and E of the permanent moorings. The holding is good but the moorings are encroach-ing on the anchoring space; you will probably need to run lines ashore.

Trollvika (SW Lundøya)Anchorages, Moorings: This anchorage in stunning surroundings is shel-tered from the north and east.

Skarsvåg (SW Lundøya) Note the 12 m high overhead cable at the head of the anchorage.

Anchorages, Moorings: This is a quiet and very pleasant wild anchorage in 7 m depth, sand bottom, well sheltered. Two anchors, or lines ashore, might be required with changing wind direction.

The cove charted as an anchorage S of Alsvikskjær, 0.8 miles WNW, is an attractive wild anchorage in 5 to 10 m depth, sand bottom, well shel-tered except from the SSW.

Oksøysundet (SE Lundøya)Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor at the E entrance to the Oksøysund. There is good holding in settled weather. Keep a good watch for fish farm cables.

HamarøyaNote that although Hamarøya is called an island (øya), it is actually a pen-insula.

Skutvika (SW Hamarøya)Skutvika is a major ferry port.

Anchorages, Moorings: There is a visitors’ pontoon inside the mole har-bour, between the RoRo and the fast ferry berths (2 mustard-coloured buildings). The pontoon is exposed to winds from the S and the cost is 50kr/24hrs.


67°58.1’ N, 15°12.5’ ELast Visited: 1996Chart: 68HG: Vol. 4: Skarsvåg

67°58’ N, 15°18’ ELast Visited: 2003Chart: 68

From offshore, looking southwest at Tranøya Lighthouse and the mountains of Hamarøya.

68°01’ N, 15°20.5’ ELast Visited: 2009Chart: 68HG: Vol. 4: Skutvik





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It is also possible to anchor in good depth inside the moles, N of the inner green spar buoy.

For The Boat: The Statoil bunkering point is on the pontoon by the con-spicuous three-story warehouse building. Electricity is available on the pontoon for a charge of 50kr/day.

Things To Do: You can take a bus to the Knut Hamsun Visitor Centre at Oppeid, on the E side of Hamarøya.

DalsværThis is a very scenic anchorage, nested between two high steep mountains. The surrounding terrain would suggest that it is subject to heavy gusting in strong winds.

Approaches: Approaching this anchorage would not be advisable in strong SW to W winds as the approaches are very narrow. There is a charted 3 m bar at the entrance to the anchorage. The deepest point on the bar is halfway between the first of the two inner beacons and the small island to its W.

Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor in 9 m depth with good holding in mud and sand in the pool by the second of the two inner beacons.

Straumhamn (NW Hamarøya)Nestled in a small fjord at the foot of Hamarøya’s crags are three picture-book anchorages, each unique. Note that strong unexpected fall-winds may be experienced here at times.

Approaches: Passing through the narrow entrance, keep to port to avoid the charted 2 m rock which will probably be visible in the clear water.

Anchorages, Moorings: These delightful choices unfold:To starboard just inside the narrow entrance lies a tiny cove edged with Șa white sand beach, with not quite sufficient depth to allow sheltering

S/V Drott II anchored at Dalsvær, looking west, with Lofoten in the far right background.


68°06.4’ N, 15°22.6’ ELast Visited: 2003Chart: 68HG: Vol. 4: Straumhamn





as deeply into the cove as you might like, but sufficient for most summer weather, using shore lines and an anchor.

A bit farther into the fjord there is a fine Șanchorage between a tiny rocky island and the nearby shore, with mooring bolts on each and a sandy shoal area nearby for an anchor if desired.

Continuing further in at well over half-tide Șand sounding carefully, crossing the sandy shoal brings you into a small deep pool ideal for an anchor on the shoal and lines ashore to trees. A small cascade empties into this pool, and a short portage with the dinghy brings you to a beautiful freshwater lake at the foot of the mountains.

Things To Do: There is a nice hike on a small path that starts at the beach on the other side of the lake and passes S of Hamarøyskaftet to Sandheia (alt 375 m) with a beautiful view of the lake and Lofoten.

Bjørnvågen (NW Hamarøya)Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor in 15 m depth with good holding in good shelter. Note that Den Norske Los reports poor holding in this anchorage.

Hamsundpollen (N Hamarøya)This is a pretty inland bay with an interesting entrance between islets.

Anchorages, Moorings: Hamsundpollen is an excellent all-weather har-bour with many places to anchor. The holding is very good in hard clay. You can anchor in the 5 m deep pool near the end of the bay, row ashore, and then it is only a short walk to the museum in Hamsund.

Things To Do: Visit the home and museum of Nordland’s notable novelist, Knut Hamsun (Nobel Prize, 1920).

Looking east over a sailboat laced into the entrance of the tiny cove at Straumhamn, just to starboard on entry into the fjord. The pool described under the Straumhamn entry as a third possible anchorage, is in the centre right of the photograph, behind the small hill, with the fresh water lake at the foot of the large mountain. Entry into the fjord is to the left of the picture.

68°08’ N, 15°24.4’ ELast Visited: 2007Chart: 68

Looking south-southeast towards the bottom of the bay at Hamsundpollen.

68°07’ N, 15°31’ ELast Visited: 2008Chart: 68HG: Vol. 4: Hamsundpollen





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TranøyTranøy is an old pilot station and trading post. Still a pilot station, Tranøy now attracts visitors because of its unique scenery, galleries, and links to the author Knut Hamsun. Hamsun, who received the Nobel Literature Prize in 1920, worked in the local shop as a young man and his time on Hamarøya is said to be reflected in some of his books. Though his work continues to be widely read and much-loved, many Norwegians have an ambivalent relationship to him due to his affiliation with the occupying forces during WWII.

Approaches: Approach from the N, passing E of Svartskjæret light, then head W for the harbour. Pass N of the wavebreaker, which has a white light on its N end.

Anchorages, Moorings: Moor alongside the pontoons or to the wharf with vertical wooden slats. The charge is 100kr/24hrs. The harbour is open to winds from SE through NE.

For The Crew: All amenities are available in the season in an old whaling ship onshore.

Things To Do: There is a pleasant walk to the picturesque lighthouse two miles W, which is reached by a long board walk. Or you can walk to the pilot look out station for panoramic views of the Lofoten island chain and Vestfjorden.

There are several art galleries to visit and a pub in the whaling ship at Tranøy. A visitors’ centre opened at Oppeid, 15 kms from Tranøy, in the summer of 2009, for the 150th anniversary of Knut Hamsun’s birth.

SommarselvågenAnchorages, Moorings: Anchor in 15 m depth in the centre of the bay in good shelter and holding. There is a pontoon that welcomes visiting boats; however, the gate was locked when one contributor visited, requiring some scrambling to get to land.

Things To Do: There is pleasant walking in the area.

68°11’ N, 15°40.5’ ELast Visited: 2009Chart: 68HG: Vol. 4: Tranøy

Looking east over the pontoons at Tranøy.

Looking north from the visitors’ pontoon at Tranøy, which runs parallel to the wooden dock shown in the photo. It may also be possible to tie up alongside the wooden wharf shown here.






Presteidvika (N Litleøy)Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor N of Litleøy in 10 m depth where there is good holding and shelter except in E winds.

Things To Do: There are nice walks N of the anchorage.

Hamarøya to Tysfjorden

Tannøyvågen (E Tannøy)The farmhouses surrounding the anchorage are now used only in the sum-mer.

Anchorages, Moorings: This is a very sheltered anchorage with good hold-ing. As the swinging room is limited, lines ashore are required.

Things To Do: Behind the farm to the SW there is a trail through the woods that leads to a small old water mill which has been nicely rebuilt.

TysfjordenAt the E end of the Vestfjord, the six fingers of the Tysfjord penetrate far into the rugged mountains almost to Sweden. All of the branches would be considered scenic anywhere and several are outstanding even in this area of superlatives. We spent two weeks here in early October. The mountains towering directly out of the fjord, with their lower slopes carpeted with trees dressed in the riotous colours of fall, and their peaks dusted with snow, all bathed in the long golden light of autumn, were truly breathtak-ing—hard on our supply of film too.

All of the islands and river outlets in the Tysfjord are part of the Bekkensholm National Park. In late October the outer Tysfjord and outer Ofotfjord (north of the Tysfjord) are visited by spekkhoggere (orca/killer whales), which follow the herring in from the Atlantic. Unfortunately, a decrease in the amount of herring in recent years has meant a concomitant decrease in the number of orcas that are coming into the fjord.

The harbours and anchorages below are listed starting from the S and working counter-clockwise around the arms of the fjord.

Korsnes (NW Tysfjorden)Anchorages, Moorings: To the W at the entrance to the Tysfjord, Korsnes is a small very sheltered mole harbour with several pontoons and quays. Use the S pontoon as there is an overhead cable at the N.

Things To Do: One km S is a short trail leading to one of Norway’s notable areas of rock carvings.

Botnøya (NE) (NW Beitsfjorden)This is a pleasant harbour with access to the remainder of the Tysfjord.

Approaches: There are leading marks in the approach to the anchorage.



Fall colours in the Tysfjord.

68°15.1’ N, 16°03.7’ ELast Visited: 1996Charts: 69, 230HG: Vol. 4: Korsnes

68°12’ N, 16°05’ ELast Visited: 2007Charts: 68, 230HG: Vol. 4: Mentioned under Storjorda





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Anchorages, Moorings: You can anchor off the NE side of Botnøya with very good holding. We do not recommend the charted anchorage at Storvika, 1 nm to the S, as it is too deep further out and if you go into shal-lower depths, there is an uncharted submerged pipe at 5 m depth and a number of old ropes running along the bottom.

It may be possible to go alongside pontoons in Storjorda, .5 nm SW.

For The Crew: There are shops, phones and a P.O. within 2 km to the W.

Things To Do: There is an interesting walk across a ridge to Tiltsvika.

Beitsfjorden (SE)Approaches: Give the rocks and the small island to port a wide berth on entering the anchorage.

Anchorages, Moorings: There is good holding in 5 to 8 m depth with good swing room. You could run lines to trees on shore if you wished.

Hellemobotn (Hellemofjorden)This is a small summer community and the start of one of the most spectacular hikes we have ever been on.

Anchorages, Moorings: Beware, the un-derwater cables are not where they are charted, at least on older charts, and in fact lie across the only spot shallow enough for anchoring.

It is possible to take a ferry from Kjøpsvik to Hellemobotn in summer. We found that the best bet off-season was to anchor at Nordbukta, to the NW, and take the dinghy for the three-mile ride to Hellemobotn.

Things To Do: The 8.5 km (each way) hike from Hellemobotn to the border with Sweden was the most stunning of our two years in Norway, although fairly challenging. After completing this hike you can wow your non-Nor-wegian friends by stating that you crossed Norway on foot. There is also a spectacular waterfall to visit. For more information visit the Hellemobotn web site at http://home.c2i.net/ktjihkko/index2.htm.

68°11.5’ N, 16°06.5’ ELast Visited: 2007Charts: 68, 230

Looking northwest out the Hellemofjord from a short way along the walk to Sweden from Hellemobotn. The anchorage at Nordbukta is behind the cliff in the right background.

67°49.1’ N, 16°30.1’ ELast Visited: 2003Chart: 230 (inset)




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Tømmervika (NE Hellemofjorden)Anchorages, Moorings: Tømmervika is a pretty anchorage open to the NW but with good holding in sand in 10 to 14 m depth.

The mountain scenery around Indre Musken, 67°53’ N, 16°13’ E, is su-perb but there is no protected anchorage there.

Kjerrvika (Grunnfjorden)Grunnfjorden is pleasantly scenic.

Anchorages, Moorings: Kjerrvika is a pleasant anchorage with swinging room, somewhat open to the NW. In 1996 one contributor anchored in 6 m with good holding in sand. In 2007 another contributor anchored in 4 m on rock with doubtful holding in the centre of the cove between the en-trance and the mooring field. He also reports a drying rock on the midline of the cove, just inside the moorings.

Eidvik, just to the SW, is a very well sheltered anchorage, but requires anchoring in 25 m depth. Anchoring at Grunnfjordbotn would be in 20 m of water.

Ørnes (SE Mannfjorden)Ørnes is a small cove at the end of a stunningly scenic fjord. There are a few summer houses scattered around the river mouth.

Anchorages, Moorings: This is a protected, very pretty cove anchorage with a sand bottom, although deep. The holding is good but very strong

fall-winds can occur with E winds; all you need to do is look around at some of the flattened trees for confirmation of this warning.

Things To Do: This is a good base for the steep hike up the S shoulder of the handsome granite peak Multind which rises 853 m overhead. There is a much less strenuous walk that starts behind the houses and leads to a pretty little mountain lake.

Kjøpsvik (central Tysfjorden)This is a pretty village on a handsome wooded slope. During approach the ambience is marred by the huge cement plant; however, once ashore the plant is invisible behind a hill.

Anchorages, Moorings: The harbour has several quays and large pontoons as well as finger pontoons. In a strong S wind, you will want to be on the inside of the pontoons.

Sørfjorden and Holmen offer pleasant and moderately scenic (but rath-er deep) anchorages in the Indre Tysfjord to the E.

67°59.1’ N, 16°16.6 ELast Visited: 2007Chart: 230 (inset)HG: Vol. 4: Tømmervika

68°00.4’ N, 16°20.1’ ELast Visited: 2007Chart: 230 (inset)HG: Vol. 4: Kjerrvika

67°58.5’ N, 16°31’ ELast Visited: 2003Chart: 230 (inset)HG: Vol. 4: Ørnes

S/V Morgan’s Cloud at anchor at Ørnes in the fall.

68°05.6’ N, 16°21.6’ ELast Visited: 2003Chart: 230HG: Vol. 4: Kjøpsvik





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Stefjordbotn (SE Stefjorden)This exceptionally spectacular anchorage is at the foot of the NW face of the 1391 m high Stetind (the Anvil of the Gods), a beautiful chisel-shaped peak visible from many miles away. The summit appears to loom overhead at 70°, although the actual rise is only 43°. There are a dozen houses at the end of the fjord.

Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor at the end of the fjord in sand in 10 to 15 m depth.

Stetind (Anvil of the Gods) looms over the Stefjord.

Things To Do: Climbing Stetind is out of reach for the average cruiser; it is, however, a much desired climb for experienced mountaineers. The sum-mit frustrated experienced climbers for decades, the first ascent being in 1910. William C. Slingsby, famous for his many pioneering climbs on the W coast, claimed it to be ‘the ugliest mountain I ever saw.’ Needless to say he never made it to the top!

Andy Hyslop and Jonathan Lagoe have written a mini-guide (in English) on the most popular route, called Stetind South Pillar, which can be down-loaded from www.rockfax.com/publications/miniguides/item.php?id=49 for no charge.

In a much publicized competition on Norway’s public radio (P1) in 2002, Stetind was voted National Mountain of Norway.

Sildpollen (NE Stefjorden)This is a superlatively beautiful wild anchorage surrounded on three sides by huge granite walls, with forests and a stream; however, one contributor reports that with the cloud base lower than the mountain tops it was rath-er like being anchored inside a grey bowl with the lid on!

Den Norske Los warns of severe gusting in strong winds from any direc-tion.

Anchorages, Moorings: Anchor at the head of the bay in 8 to 10 m depth in sand and mud with good holding off the small sandy beach to the W of the rock shown on the chart. The beach on the E is steep-to.

68°11’ N, 16°36.2’ ELast Visited: 2008Chart: 230HG: Vol. 4: Stefjordbotn

Looking south-southwest at S/V Drott II anchored below Stetind at Stefjordbotn.





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Ofotfjorden and Approaches

Vallebukta (NW Efjorden)The beautifully scenic Efjord cuts deeply SE into the mountains at the en-trance to the Ofotfjord.

Anchorages, Moorings: Vallebukta, a lovely an-chorage with fine views, is located on the star-board hand when entering the mouth of the fjord. It is possible to anchor either to the N or S of the little island, depending on the wind direc-tion. There are 3 helpful uncharted perches at the N entry to the bay.

There is also a pleasant scenic anchorage in 15 m depth, .25 nm W of the 25 m high over-head cable between Straumøya and Hestneset, at 68°20’ N, 16°14’ E, at the entrance to the Efjord.

The remainder of the Efjord is quite scenic, with a reasonable fair-weather anchorage at the end.

Things To Do: The hike to the top of Valletinden (alt 833 m), the mountain SW of the Vallebukta anchorage, is well worth the effort. The gradient is moderate, the views from the top are superb, and with good visibility you can see Værøy, 89 nm away.

Teppkilen (NW Efjorden)This lovely side-arm to Efjorden is too deep for anchoring but the rock face N in the bay is well suited for mooring alongside.

Note that the charted 16 m high cable across the entrance to Efjorden, E of Straumøya, is now sign posted as 22 m.

Approaches: While Den Norske Los advises that Teppkilen should only be entered with local knowledge, the approach is actually quite straight forward even with the 1:80,000 chart 230. Keep well off Teppkilneset to avoid the charted submerged rocks; staying slightly W of the middle of the approach will keep you in 5 m of water.

Anchorages, Moorings: Pass the second headland to port to enter Teppkilen proper. Immediately to port there is then a vertical rock face low enough for scrambling ashore and with suitable trees for tying shorelines to—leaving enough slack in your lines for the 2 m tidal difference.

SkarstadSkarstad is a small, pleasant, well-sheltered mole harbour.

Approaches: From the N (Ofotfjorden), pass W of the perch then into the mole harbour. From the SW, in daylight only, pass through the scenic winding passage S of Barøya and Revelsøya, under the 22 m overhead cable SE of Revelsøya.

68°19’ N, 16°15.4’ ELast Visited: 2009Chart: 230HG: Vol. 4: Ungsmaløya

Looking northeast over the an-chorage at Vallebukta, with the small island of Ungsmaløya in the front centre of the photograph.







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Anchorages, Moorings: There is a 30 m long pontoon with 2.5 m depth alongside. The charge is 30kr/24 hrs. There is also a council dock, intended for short stays only.

For The Boat: Electricity is available on the pontoon for an extra charge.

Things To Do: Walk to the sculpture “Heaven on Earth” along the shore, 1 km NE, which is part of the art project “Skulpturlandskap Nordland”.

KjeldebotnThis is a useful stop on passage up the Ofotfjord, though open to the N.

Approaches: Pass between the green and red perches and W of Kjeldebotn light.

Anchorages, Moorings: The visitors’ pontoon is located N of the new mole, S of the large dock with a café. The depth alongside is > 3 m, but the pontoon is rough and appears old. Smaller boats could enquire about a vacant fingerberth in the mole harbour. The charge is 50kr/24hrs.

For The Boat: Electricity is available for those with long extension cords.

For The Crew: There is a shop with P.O. (The shop was looking for a new proprietor in the autumn of 2009 and its future appears uncertain.) There is a shuttle boat to the airport at Evenes.

Things To Do: There is a café on the docks.

BallangenBallangen is not a scenic anchorage as it is dominated by the quarry and the large dock associated with this. There are no particular attractions ashore and the docks are either private or in poor repair or have very little depth alongside. We no longer recommend this anchorage.

Sør-Skjomen or Hallarvika (Skjomenfjorden)This is a superbly sce-nic fjord. When an-chored at the end we felt as if we had been magically transported to some high alpine lake.

Be aware that in strong SE and ESE winds, the Skjomen-fjord can unexpect-edly send heavy blasts several miles out into the Ofotfjord.



The cove Hallarvika at the end of Sør-Skjomen, an arm of the Skjomenfjord, looking southwest.






Anchorages, Moorings: A very good anchorage is found at the bottom of the fjord but beware of the extremely sudden sand/mud shelf off the stream outlet and the underwater cables E in the fjord.

The Frostisen Glacier lies just above the fjord and there is a charted anchorage just beneath it.

S/V Morgan’s Cloud is dwarfed by the mountains surrounding Skjomenfjorden.

Things To Do: There is excellent walking ashore up alongside the stream from the anchorage at the bottom of the fjord. This is also a popular start-ing-off point for back country hikers, with access to marked paths and a number of small self-serve cabins along the Norwegian/Swedish border. For more information see www.turistforeningen.no and search under Narvik.

NarvikNarvik is a small city in attractive surroundings at the E end of the Ofotfjord, with two small boat harbours and a large commercial harbour. The city was established in the late 1800s as an ice-free port for shipping iron ore from Kiruna, just across the Swedish border. Narvik was the scene of in-tense battles during the first weeks of WWII and the city was laid in ruins. Modern Narvik has a pleasant appearance and friendly atmosphere, may-be best known today for some of Northern Europe’s most dramatic hiking and skiing.

Anchorages, Moorings: Vassvika: This mole harbour lies N of the city and is well-protected Șthough with very limited manoeuvering room inside. The visitors’ pontoon is the second pontoon to starboard (the first pontoon is for the fuel pump). Moor alongside the projecting pontoon, with depths of 1.5 to 2 m. The pontoon parallel with the shore has < 1 m depth in places. The charge is 100kr/24 hrs. For more information see http://www.narvik-baatforening.no/.Ankenes: This well-protected mole harbour lies SW of the city. There is Șdeep water between the mole heads marked with green and red perches. Moor at the fuel pontoon (straight ahead after entering between the mole heads) and enquire about a vacant fingerberth (Harbourmaster,

68°25.9’ N, 17°24.9’ ELast Visited: 2009Charts: 230, 461HG: Vol. 4: Narvik





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http://www.turistforeningen.no/http://www.narvik-baatforening.no/http://www.narvik-baatforening.no/http://www.norwegiancruisingguide.com


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Tel.: +(47) 76 95 03 75/91 55 03 73). For more information, and a web camera, see www.ankenes-baatforening.no/.Larger boats should enquire with the harbour authorities about Șdocking at a commercial wharf. Tel.: +(47) 76 95 03 70. Ask for the harbourmaster on duty (havnevakta).

For The Boat: Vasssvika has a fuel dock, which is quite shoal, so watch the tide. There is electricity on the pontoon at 50kr/day. Ankenes has a fuel dock.

For The Crew: Vassvika has a service building with toilet, shower and laun-dry facilities—enquire with locals about the entry code. There are all facili-ties in the city centre, a 10 minute walk from Vassvika and a bus ride from Ankenes (every 1/2 hour).

Things To Do: The Krigsminnemuseum and Ofoten museum both depict the fierce naval and land battles that took place in 1940. The chart shows numerous large-wreck symbols where warships still lie, and one can be seen at the surface in the Rombakfjord.

There is a rock carving very close to the Vassvik harbour. It may be possible to take a cable car partway up Fagernesfjellet for

great views. The day-return Ofotbanen rail trip from Narvik through the moun-

tains to the Swedish border is an inexpensive and very scenic excursion. At Riksgränsen, a Swedish border town, you can visit Sven Hörnell’s Subartisk photograph gallery. It is also possible to walk back towards the coast on the Rallarveien trail from Riksgränsen, catching the train back to Narvik at several places along the way. A classic hike is the one from Bjørnfjell along the navvy road or mountain path to Kattarat to catch the afternoon train back to Narvik. (For the mountain trail you will want a map of the area—the spot where the trail from the mountain down to Kattarat deviates from the main trail is poorly marked.) The weather can change quickly up here so make sure to dress appropriately. To find out more about hikes in the Narvik region, visit www.narvikfjell.no (some English information).

LilandOn the N central shore of the Ofotfjord, Liland is in a pretty farming area offering a soft contrast to the crags of Lofoten.

Anchorages, Moorings: There are excel-lent guest pontoons for small boats or larger boats in settled weather.

Looking southeast across the Ofotfjord to the mountains behind Skjomenfjord with the guest pontoon at Liland in the foreground.

68°28.6’ N, 16°53.5’ ELast Visited: 2007Chart: 230HG: Vol. 4: Liland




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Bogen, 3 miles NE, has an old wooden quay at which it is possible to dry on the tide for scrubbing; this will greatly interest the local residents as this operation is virtually unknown in Norway.

A scenic anchorage (especially useful when the pontoon is bumpy) is found in the Øysund just NE of Liland, with 4 m depth entering from the SW (stay NW of the channel midline in the area just NE of the wire); the overhead wire signposted at 15 m high appears to be 26 m as charted, but beware.

For The Boat: There is water, electricity and fuel now available on the guest pontoons in Liland.

For The Crew: There are showers at the clubhouse.

Things To Do: The Liland clubhouse provides a grille, BBQ and picnic ta-bles.

Tjeldsundet and RamsundetThese sounds, separating Tjeldøya from Hinnøya, are quite interesting and pleasant. The Tjeldsund is a major route between the Vestfjord and areas to the N. In the Ramsund, at the 19 m high bridge, the leading marks (both ahead and behind) must be followed accurately, which can be difficult due to the strong tidal streams.

The strongest currents are reported at Sandtorgstraumen in the Tjeldsund, where they run at up to 4 knots, with the N-going stronger than the S-going. The S-going current peaks 6 hours before HW Evenskjær; the N-going with peak flow at HW Evenskjær (HW Evenskjær is 5 minutes after HW Bodø).

In S Tjeldsundet and in the Ramsund, the tide shifts approximately 1 hour before Sandtorgstraumen (source: Den Norske Los, Vol. 6, and The Naval School web pages).

Note that although passage through the Ramsund is now allowed (older charts prohibit entry to certain areas), you are not permitted to moor or anchor as there is a military base and training centre there. Likewise, fish-ing and diving are prohibited.

Harbours further N in the Tjeldsund will be discussed in the next chap-ter.

Lødingen (S Tjeldsundet)Lødingen is a pleasant town and a useful place to wait for suitable weather to cross the Vestfjord or for a favourable tide to pass through the Tjeldsund.

Approaches: Melkebukta, a fine small-boat harbour formed by moles at the E edge of town, is entered from the N between 2 lighted perches; dredging in 1995 deepened the entrance and the fueling area to over 2.5 m depth. The 15 m high overhead cable which once crossed the entrance has been removed.

68°30’ N, 16°20’ ECharts: 77, 230Den Norske Los, Vol. 6: Sketch maps of Ramsundet

68°24.9’ N, 15°59.8’ ELast Visited: 2008Charts: 69, 230HG: Vol. 4: Lødingen





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Anchorages, Moorings: In Melkebukta, you can moor alongside finger piers attached to the Șpontoon against the S mole, past the pilot vessel and the diesel pontoon, clearly marked Gjestebrygge. We found 2.5 m depth at low tide alongside and the same in the approaches.Larger vessels will prefer to moor alongside one of the two 50 m long Șdeep water pontoons outside the mole harbour, on the S side of the bay. Note that the S side of the S-most pontoon is used by the Narvik express boat once a day. These pontoons are exposed to the E. All pontoons are 50kr/day; use the honesty box.

Looking southeast over Lødingen from the mountain Boya.

For The Boat: Water is available on the pontoons in Melkebukta and elec-tricity is available on all the pontoons at an extra charge of 15kr/day. Diesel is available near the pilot boat and from the chandlery at the head of the

pontoon during normal business hours for cash or card. The marine supply shop has a good stock of general boating gear.

For The Crew: Toilets and showers are available in the red club house on Hjertholmen, next to Melkebukta. There is a medium-sized ICA su-permarket close to the pontoons.

Things To Do: There are cafés, restaurants and pubs in town and a BBQ facility on Hjertholmen, by the outdoor stage. Relics from its pilot history can be found at the old pilot station on Hjertholmen. There are fine moun-tain walks nearby, including up Boya for beautiful views of your boat in the harbour and of the surrounding area.

Hinnøya and Adjacent SkerriesOn a moderate day, sailing through the intricate channels in the archipel-ago of small islands S of Hinnøya is pleasant, especially in a S wind when the area is nicely sheltered.

S/V Morgenstjernen alongside in Melkebukta harbour at Lødingen, looking northeast.





Slåtøya/BukkøyaAnchorages, Moorings: There are a number of scenic sandy anchorages in between the skerries; select for wind direction.

Offersøya (S Hinnøya)Approaches: The approach is due N between the islets, leaving a single perch to port.

Anchorages, Moorings: This is a moderately pleasant harbour with pon-toons, likely to be bustling with campers and tourists at the small hotel. It may be rolly in SW winds.

Hegstadosen (S of Hinnøya)Anchorages, Moorings: This is a scenic sheltered wild anchorage, with a sand bottom and good depth.

SvellingenAnchorages, Moorings: There are several possible anchorages in the Svellingen area:

In the most attractive anchorage, almost a lagoon, you can tie between Șthe heart-shaped (or skull-shaped) island 1 cable in diameter (lying E of the centre of Lille Svellingen) and the tiny islet NW, at the position given. Entry can be made in good depth by heading SW from Lysøya Light, then turning N with Lille Svellingen to port and the heart-shaped island to starboard. Beware of the submerged mooring lines running from the small pontoon on the small island to the W across to the other side of the anchorage.Another fine anchorage lies .75 nm due N of the one just described, E of Șa charted rock awash, entered heading ENE, at 68°18.07’ N, 15°20.2’ E. Another anchorage, at the W side of Store Svellingen, is well sheltered Șeven in strong SW winds, but although it offers beautiful distant views, the anchorage itself is less attractive. Proceed S along the W side of Store Svellingen, leaving the 3 m sounding and tiny islet to starboard, then turn E between the two larger islands lying just W of Store Svellingen, then turn N into the diminishing channel. There is a small quay to port with 3.5 m depth, and lines can be taken to bolts on both shores. The anchorage charted SE of the NE-most point on Store Svellingen is Șfrequently rocked by heavy wash from the catamaran coastal express which transits just .15 nm N at 38 knots; the effect can be minimized by pulling well in towards the bolt.

RisværThis was once a major fishing port, but now only a few families live in this unique and interesting tiny summer community lining the narrow sound, Kjeila, between Borterøya and Heimerøya. The least depth, 1.8 m, is not far inside the N entrance.




68°17.3’ N, 15°20.3’ ELast Visited: 2006Chart: 69HG: Vol. 4: Svellingen

68°16.3’ N, 15°07.5’ ELast Visited: 1996Chart: 69HG: Vol. 4: Risvær





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Anchorages, Moorings: The best quay for berthing is hard to port imme-diately after entering the sound from the N, at the SW tip of the quay. The pontoon at the N end of the sound has insufficient depth for a sailboat, but there are several new private pontoons serving holiday cottages which may be available with permission.

Steinsøya (Vestfjorden)There are magnificent distant mountain views all around the horizon.

Anchorages, Moorings: There is a charming and well sheltered sandy-bottomed anchorage at the 4 m sounding E of Store Steinsøya. The NE entrance channel has more than the charted 2 m depth, but that to the S has less than the charted 2 m. A very strong current sluices through the anchorage at spring tides.

It is also possible to anchor just N of the islands at 68°15.9’N, 15°04’ E, in 9 m depth with good holding in sand.

Lofoten

Vestpollen (NW Øksfjorden)Lying at the NW head of a very scenic fjord, this is an exceptionally beauti-ful and wild anchorage, with the summit of Møysalen soaring 1266 m up from the end of the fjord. The cave Tyvhellar (Thieves’ Cave) at the N side of Tyvhellarneset (towards the end of the fjord and S of the 21 m sounding) is mentioned in the Viking sagas as the over-winter refuge of Sigurd Slembe, who mistakenly entered the Øksfjord thinking it was the Raftsund when fleeing his enemies.

Note that there is a 15 m high overhead cable 3/4 of the way up the fjord.

68°15.7’ N, 15°04’ ELast Visited: 2007Chart: 69HG: Vol. 4: Steinsøya

A herring seiner at work in the Vestfjord.

68°30.9’ N, 15°32.7’ ELast Visited: 1996Chart: 69 (inset)HG: Vol. 4: Vestpollen





Anchorages, Moorings: You can anchor on the charted 3 m rocky and sandy shoal with good swinging room just E of Tyvhellarneset or on the rather narrow sandy shelf at the end of the fjord.

Kvannkjosen (SW Øksfjorden)Near the entrance to the Øksfjord on the port hand, you can meander into this pretty, interesting and complex group of little coves and islets sur-rounded by wooded hills, ideal for shore-side expeditions.

Anchorages, Moorings: Some ingenuity with anchors and shore-lines might be required to feel secure in a heavy blow, but the area is extremely well sheltered. There is good swinging room, over a shell/mud bottom.

Looking west over a sailboat laced into the very snug little cove at the far southeast corner of the Kvannkjosen anchorage, with the entrance off the picture to the right.

Things To Do: There is a nice old trail that runs N from the village Kvannkjosen to Kongselva on the Raftsund. The trail can be intercepted by walking N up the right side of the little river that runs into the anchorage. Some scrambling through the woods brings you to the trail.

Digermulen (SW Hinnøya)Anchorages, Moorings: This small harbour has quays and a small pon-toon, or it is possible to anchor in settled weather.

In N winds, anchor SSE to the E of Bukkholmen, or 5 miles SSW at Gullvika.

An exceptionally scenic and well protected anchorage is found SE at Valen (it is reported that there is now 3 m depth where older charts show 1 m entering from the S, since it was dredged by resident whalers).

Things To Do: There is a well marked and maintained path to the top of Keiservarden (alt 388 m), which provides spectacular panoramic views and plaques commemorating the ascents made by the German Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1889 and 1903.

68°22’ N, 15°11’ ELast Visited: 2006Chart: 69HG: Vol. 4: Kvannkjosen

68°18.2’ N, 14°59.9’ ELast Visited: 2003Chart: 69HG: Vol. 4: Digermulen





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Tengelfjorden (SW Hinnøya)This is a small enclosed cove NE in the Raftsund.

Approaches: Enter with great care and keep extremely close N of the perch to stay in the best depth.

Anchorages, Moorings: You can anchor or use a vacant mooring, with permission.

For The Crew: There is a shop.

Things To Do: There is a nice walk to the lake.

Ingelsfjorden (SW Hinnøya)This wild and scenic fjord is located at the NE side of the Raftsund. Note the 21.5 m high overhead cable. Just S of the entrance to the fjord is the tiny island Gunnar-skjåen, mentioned in the Viking sagas as a strategic lookout point against potential enemies approaching in the Raftsund.

Anchorages, Moorings: There is a fine anchorage charted just outside the overhead cable, S of Nesøya. You can also anchor at the end of the fjord at the waypoint given, possibly with a line ashore, but be sure the anchor is properly set as there is extensive weed on the bottom.

Things To Do: There is a fine walk E on a game trail to the Øksfjord.

Skipøyosen (E Brotøya)Anchorages, Moorings: This is a scenic and convenient anchorage to wait for the S-flowing tide through the Raftsund. It is quite well sheltered, with good swinging room in 8 m depth, sand bottom.

A mile SW lies a larger but less idyllic anchorage, S of Hanøya.

Things To Do: Brotøya is very fine for walking, and there is a notable home bakery on one of the farms at Brotøen at the W of the island. There is a nice beach.

Grundfjorden (E Austvågøya)This is an exceptionally beautiful wild anchorage just NE of the Trollfjord, with a lake just to the NW and a small herd of elk.

Approaches: At mid-tide there is a uniform 2 m of water over the shoal at the entry; it would be prudent to proceed dead slow and on the rising tide unless near HW. Once past the shoal there is good depth, with shal-low areas as charted.

68°25.4’ N, 15°09.30’ ELast Visited: 1996Chart: 69HG: Vol. 4: Tengelfjord

68°28.10’ N, 15°23.80’ ELast Visited: 1996Chart: 69HG: Vol. 4: Innerfjorden


68°23’ N, 15°00’ ELast Visited: 2003Chart: 69HG: Vol. 4: Grundfjorden

Looking south over a sailboat laced into the tiny cove at Grundfjorden, with the entrance through the channel shown on the right side of the photo.





Anchorages, Moor ings: You can moor very near the cas cades at the N (in heavy rain the outflow creates a 5 knot side current), in the tiny cove straight ahead of the entrance channel, or at the SE; in all cases using shore lines and anchors. With gusting from the mountains, and limited room to manoeuver in, this fjord is not the best place to be in strong winds.

Things To Do: There are beautiful walks in this untouched valley, including to the lake Tverrdalsvatnan (alt 389 m).

Trollfjorden (E Austvågøya)The scenery in the Raftsund, when approaching the Trollfjord, an impres-sively narrow fjord surrounded by sheer cliffs with snowy peaks, is excep-tional. The coastal ships enter the Trollfjord every day and the very narrow entrance with its high sides is shown off to best advantage when dwarfing a large ship!

Anchorages, Moor ings: There is a short, verti-cally clad timber quay at the small hydro-electric station at the head of the fjord that could be used for a short stop. There is also a rickety pier op-posite but it was occupied when one contribu-tor visited, possibly by the operator of the small adjacent handicrafts business. For most cruisers, a visit to look around will be sufficient before go-ing elsewhere to spend the night.

Djuphavn, .5 nm S of the entrance to the Trollfjord, is a tiny crack-in-the-wall where you can tie between the N and S walls in a real mi-cro-harbour; beware the overhead cable.

Things To Do: You can walk up along, and in places onto, the hydroelectric pipeline, and then bear left across a scree slope to a spectacular lake with superb views well worth the strenuous effort.

Ulvågen (E Store Molla)This is an exceptionally scenic wilderness an-chorage at the end of a small fjord.

Anchorages, Moor ings: There is good holding and shelter here in all but E winds. It is a good place when S winds make Gullvika uncomfort-able. Anchor in 15 m depth with 2 anchors as there is limited swing room. Watch the rocks to the N in the anchorage.

There are several quays near the entrance to the fjord, in sheltered and pleasant surround-ings, where it may be possible to tie up.

68°21.8’ N, 14°56.2’ ELast Visited: 2005Chart: 69HG: Vol. 4: Trollfjorden

The quay at Trollfjorden, a great place to start a walk.

The snug anchorage at the head of Ulvågen has just enough room for a boat using two anchors or an anchor and a line to the shore.






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Gullvika (SE Store Molla)This is an exceptionally attractive and scenic anchorage, one of our favou-rites.

Anchorages, Moorings: There is good swing room in the E cove in 4 to 9 m depth, sand bottom, with numerous mooring bolts around the edges of the cove. This cove is not sheltered in S winds. The W cove is sheltered from S winds, but there is a shoal between the coves that needs half-tide or better for passage.

There are several other anchorages nearby: Mollgavlen, 4 miles NNE, is a sheltered and pleasant anchorage, with the entrance probably needing half-tide; Ulvågen, a couple of miles NNE; Krabvågen, 1.5 miles SSW, is a charming tiny cove with a sandy bottom in 3 m depth and with a small beach, somewhat exposed to the S.

The west cove at Gullvika as seen from just east of the entrance. Beware the uncharted shallows at the entrance that make an exploratory trip in the dinghy a good idea before entering on a rising tide.

Things To Do: There are good crops of blueberries on the NW side of the W cove. There are walks along the old road, now a trail, to lakes to the N, and to the settlement of Brettesnes to the S.

Brettesnes (S Store Molla)The only shop closed a few years ago.

Anchorages, Moorings: There is a guest pontoon (depths alongside not known) and a quay with tires with a few places where the tires are lower and securing a yacht might be possible.

Things To Do: There is a lovely walk to Gullvika.

68°14.9’ N, 14°53.8’ ELast Visited: 2003Chart: 69HG: Vol. 4: Gullvika

68°14’ N, 14°51.25 ELast Visited: 2006Chart: 69





Skrova

Skrova is a large old well-sheltered whaling harbour 5 miles SE of Svolvær. Note that the cable to Skrova Light has been raised to 22 m clearance and the red spar buoy in the entrance is now a port-hand beacon.

Approaches: Enter from the SW.

Anchorages, Moorings: The floating docks are too small for a larger boat but there are many quays.

Things To Do: There are great walks includ-ing to a white sand beach on the other side of the island and up the mountain for fantastic views. There is a pub with excellent meals.

Fløtningsviken (E Austvågøya)This is a good place to wait for the tide if heading N through the Raftsund.

Anchorages, Moorings: This is a very pretty anchorage N of Storøya.

Austnesfjorden (SE Austvågøya)This is a pretty fjord just E of Svolvær, with very fine views of the high peaks toward the Trollfjord. There is a 16 m high overhead cable across Østpollen.

Anchorages, Moorings: There is a possible anchorage at Langstrand and better still at Sildpollen. There are mooring buoys and bolts just outside Sildpollen and a good quay by the church. On the E shore near a stream there are ruined stone quays (with marginal depth) which make a very pleasant day stop. The head of the fjord has many pleasantly situated hous-es and anchoring possibilities.

The harbour at Skrova with the mountains of Lofoten in the background as seen looking northwest from the highest point on the island. The harbour entrance is to the left.

68°10’ N, 14°40’ E Last Visited: 2006Chart: 73HG: Vol. 4: Skrova

Phyllis collects shells on the white sand beach at the end of a walk on Skrova. This is a scene that looks more like the Caribbean than one nearly 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle; however, a quick dip will correct any geographical misconcep-tions.

68°16.10’ N, 14°45.10’ ELast Visited: 1996Chart: 73HG: Vol. 4: Fløtnesvika

68°19.2’ N, 14°44’ ELast Visited: 1996Chart: 73HG: Vol. 4: Sildpollneset





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Things To Do: A 3 km walk to yttersia (the outside of the islands) takes you to where fisherman used to haul their small boats across on the snow.

Svolvær (SE Austvågøya)Svolvær is the ‘big city’ of Lofoten.

Anchorages, Moorings: There are several options:

There are guest Șpontoons with water and electri-city in the main harbour. Depths along side the pon-toons are variable and it is very shallow (< 1.5 m) at the N end of the inner pontoon. The charge is 110kr/day and there is an automatic machine that takes cash or credit cards.If they are full, it is possible to tie up to the large quays right next to the Șpontoons.There are wooden docks with vertical wooden slats on the N side of the Șisland with the Anker and Rica Hotel establish ment, past the dock with the sign fortøyning forbudt (no mooring). Close to the bridge there is only 1.5 m depth alongside. The charge is 100kr/day for boats under 60’, no facilities.

The Fisherman’s Wife statue on the breakwater on the east side of the entrance to Svolvær, makes a good landmark for the arriving mariner.

68°14’ N, 14°34.10’ ELast Visited: 2008Charts: 73, 462HG: Vol. 4: Svolvær

Looking southwest over the harbour at Svolvær, taken from Svolværgeita (Svolværgoat). The anchorage described is just off the photograph to the left and the Marinepollen pontoons are in the right centre. The docks by the Anker and Rica Hotel are on the small island with the red buildings in the middle of the bridge to the left centre. The official guest pontoons are closer to the harbour entrance, which is shown on the top left.





The Marinepollen boat-club pontoons in the NW part of the harbour Șare quieter and more scenic but less central. With a tall mast, the 14.8 m high bridge on the way to Marinepollen must be bypassed. Moor at the outermost finger berth or in a vacant berth. The gates lock at night and you will need a dinghy. The charge is 60kr/day. These pontoons are not suitable for large boats in strong winds.It is possible to anchor E of the Marinepollen boat-club pontoons Ș

in the bay under the twin-peaked rock spire, Svolværgeita, in 10.8 m depth, firm alluvial mud, with good holding, at the charted anchor sign, inside the bridge.

For The Boat: Water and electricity are avail-able at the pontoons in the town centre. Water is available on the Marinepollen boatclub pontoons and diesel is available at Statoil in Marinepollen N in the harbour, N of the bridge. They take cash or credit card and are open 0730 to 2400. Fuel is also available at Osan, not far to the W.

For The Crew: It is possible to do laundry at the marine service station by the campgrounds (we traveled back and forth by dinghy) and showers are available at the Havly Hotel. There are a wide range of shops.

Things To Do: There is a very scenic but steep and strenuous path that climbs to the base of Svolværgeita (Svolvær goat). At 569 m high, Svolværgeita is a rock spire with twin summits overlooking the city. Among rock climbers, it is the thing to jump between these two summits, over hundreds of feet of open air. Needless to say, we did not try this! A less strenuous hike is up the Tjeldbergtind (alt 367 m) for nice views of Svolvær and the coast.

There is a small airport nearby and seaplane sightseeing flights may be arranged from the harbour. There are museums, art galleries and a fine old church.

Kabelvåg (SE Austvågøya)Anchorages, Moorings: There are two new 30 m long pontoons, built after a winter gale did damage to the old pontoon. The charge is 100kr/day.

The floating dock at Kabelvåg looking west.

For The Crew: There are toilets in the pub.

The wooden wharfs on the north side of Lamholmen, the island connected by a short bridge to the town of Svolvær with the large Rica Hotel on it. Not to be confused with the larger island Kjeøya that is also joined by a bridge and makes up the east side of the harbour.

68°12.6’ N, 14°29.2’ ELast Visited: 2006Chart: 73HG: Vol. 4: Kabelvåg





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Things To Do: The Vågan Kirke (The Lofoten Cathedral), built to serve the large winter fishing fleet with seating for more than 1000 people, is worth a visit. It is a nice walk to the museum, gallery and aquarium at Nyvågar.

Nyvågar or Storvågen (SE Austvågøya)The chart refers to this harbour as Storvågen while the local name is Nyvågar.

This is a quality tourist development, with many modern rorbuer (fish-ing huts, rented to tourists).

Approaches: Nyvågar is tucked in a small channel on SE Austvågøya, with the entrance between Sagøya and Reksteinen. Identify the perch with green markings 0.5 nm NE of Sagø light. Pass N of this perch. Go past the yellow hotel building and red service house; the pontoons will appear as you enter the bay. Severe swells enter in strong SW winds and in winter storms the tide has been known to cover the restaurant floor!

Anchorages, Moorings: The quay at the restaurant deck is shallow as well as very public. There are extensive pontoons by the tourist lodgings at Nyvågar Rorbuer: 8 and 10 m long finger berths with depths ranging from 1 to 3 m. The management can provide an aerial photograph with the depths shown at all the berths. The charge is 135kr/day.

For The Boat: There is electricity on the Nyvågar Rorbuer pontoons.

For The Crew: There are toilets, showers, and a sauna at Nyvågar Rorbuer.

Approaches to Nyvågar or Storvågen.

Things To Do: There is a restaurant and pub, an aquarium and the Lofoten museum. In the Galleri Espolin, life from earlier days in Lofoten is compel-lingly depicted in the works of notable artist Kåre Espolin Johnson. Some information is available in English at www.storvagan.no.

Kabelvåg is easily visited via a short walk from Nyvågar.

68°12.45’ N, 14°26.2’ ELast Visited: 2006Chart: 73HG: Vol. 4: Nyvågar




http://www.storvagan.nohttp://www.norwegiancruisingguide.com

ØrsvågDen Norske Los describes Ørsvåg as one of Lofoten’s best harbours with good protection in all weather. It is home to the Lofoten Tourist and Rorbu Center, which has many services and facilities.

Anchorages, Moorings: There is good holding with lots of swinging room.

HenningsværPerhaps the best known of Lo fo t en’s fishing harbours, Hennings vær, known locally as “The Venice of the North”, is a gem. A group of small is-lands connected by moles forms the har-bour, situated at the foot of high craggy mountains.

Approaches: Entrance from the W is under an 18 m high bridge; from the E there is no height restriction.

The harbour at Henningsvær in silver evening light looking south from the top of Festrågtind, the mountain just across the bridge on the mainland.

Anchorages, Moorings: There seem to be miles of quays at which to berth; seeing Henningsvær in the summer, you can hardly imagine that in the winter fishing season the harbour is likely to be filled wall-to-wall with hundreds of fishing boats.

There is a pontoon/dock outside the Henningsvær Bryggehotel with 2 Șm depth on the outside of the pontoon, 0.5 to 1.5 m depth on the inside. The charge is 60 to 120kr/day depending on the size of your boat.There is a pontoon outside the Fiskekrogan restaurant but there are Șrailroad ties sticking out at low tide. With a bit of work it is possible to manoeuvre around them. The charge is 60 to 120kr/day depending on the size of your boat.


A fishing boat alongside the small community dock in Henningsvær, looking northeast.

68°09.3’ N, 14°12.4’ ELast Visited: 2006Chart: 73HG: Vol. 4: Henningsvær





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The official guest dock is on the council pontoon S in the harbour by Șthe largest mole. The charge is 110kr/day.

For The Boat: Water and electricity are available at all the pontoons. Diesel is available at the Esso by the mole S in the harbour. They are open 0800 to 1530 and take cash only. Access to their pump is somewhat limited due to moored boats.

For The Crew: Toilet facilities are of varying quality. Those at the council pontoon are very basic, while the Henningsvær Bryggehotel offers toilets, showers and a sauna. WiFi is available at the hotel (if moored there they will give you the pa

Norwegian Cruising Guide Sample Chapter · 2012. 6. 11. · Norwegian Cruising Guide 5 Bodø to Narvik with Lofoten Anchorages, Moorings: This wild and beautiful anchorage has several

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