NORTHERN INDIA & THE HIMALAYAS

1 Birdquest: Northern India & The Himalayas 2006

NORTHERN INDIA & THE HIMALAYAS

9 – 28 DECEMBER 2006

TOUR REPORT

LEADER: CRAIG ROBSON Despite a drought at Keoladeo National Park (Bharatpur) and Ranthambhore, and mild weather conditions in the mountains, the latest Birdquest to Northern India and the Himalayas was arguably the best ever for birds and mammals. Out of a total of 411 species, we recorded two Indian endemics (Painted Spurfowl and Marshall’s Iora), 43 Indian subcontinent endemics (Indian Vulture, Cheer Pheasant, Indian Peafowl, Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Indian Courser, Painted Sandgrouse, Himalayan Parakeet, Plum-headed Parakeet, Sirkeer Malkoha, Indian Eagle-owl, Jungle Owlet, Indian Scops-owl, Indian Jungle Nightjar, Indian White-rumped Spinetail, Indian Grey Hornbill, Brown-throated Barbet, Indian Pygmy Woodpecker, Brown-fronted Pied Woodpecker, Himalayan Pied Woodpecker, White-naped Flameback, Indian Bushlark, Ashy-crowned Finch-lark, Rufous-tailed Lark, Streak-throated Swallow, White-browed Wagtail, Upland Pipit (heard only this time), White-bellied Minivet, Himalayan Bulbul, Indian Black Robin, Brown Rock-chat, Streaked Laughingthrush, Black-chinned Babbler, Nepal Wren-babbler, Rufous Sibia, Ashy and Rufous-fronted Prinias, Black-lored Yellow and Spot-winged Tits, Bank Myna, Black-breasted Weaver, White-bellied Drongo, Black-headed Jay, and Indian Jungle Crow), and ten near-endemics (Indian Black Ibis, Fulvous-breasted Pied Woodpecker (as currently defined), Himalayan and Black-rumped Flamebacks, Tickell’s Thrush, Smoky and Brooks’s Leaf-warblers, Pale-billed Flowerpecker, Himalayan Greenfinch, and Brahminy Starling). There were numerous other avian highlights: Black-necked Stork, Pallas’s Fish Eagle at the nest, Lesser Fish-eagle, three Bearded Vultures, a male Pied Harrier, Laggar Falcon, fantastic views of Koklass Pheasant feeding in front of our vehicle, a roosting and skimming Indian Skimmer, Brown Crake, the seriously threatened Black-bellied Tern, ten species of owl in the daytime (including Oriental Scops-owl, Dusky Eagle-owl on the nest, and Collared Owlet), 17 species of woodpecker (including Rufous-bellied and Great Slaty), Bimaculated and Sand Larks, great looks at both Altai and Black-throated Accentors, White-tailed Rubythroat, a tame Golden Bush Robin, at least five rare White-throated Bushchats, Striated Babbler, a really obliging Scaly-breasted Wren-babbler, White-eared Bulbul, Whistler’s Warbler, six species of laughingthrush (including the boldly-patterned Rufous-chinned), and Red-headed and White-capped Bunting. The mammal of the trip for many of was Tiger of course, which we saw both at Corbett National Park and Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve. However, for others, it was the totally unexpected sighting of a tame pack of five awesome Indian Wolves just outside Ranthambhore. Other good mammals were a wonderful and surprisingly large Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Hare, Ruddy Mongoose, Indian Gazelle, and Asian Elephant.


The birding began with several hours at the Ganges River crossing near Gajraula, on the way from Delhi to Corbett National Park. As usual, the sandbanks had completely changed shape and, this year, were largely being used for temporary cultivation. However, it wasn’t long before we found some extensive sandy flats and the bird that makes this habitat its home, Sand Lark. There were a few shorebirds and wagtails along the river edge, and on the river itself we spotted three adult Steppe Gulls, just a single Brown-headed Gull, and five Great Black-headeds. On one of the tall pylons near the main road, we were able to scope a roosting Laggar Falcon, a tough species on this itinerary. We drove across the well-populated plains to Ramnagar and then on to Quality Inn, close to Corbett NP. We began our exploration of the area around Quality Inn, known as Kumaria, by scanning for Ibisbill from the suspension bridge over the Kosi River but, alas, no joy. It has now been many years since the species was found wintering in the region. We had more success in the forest nearby, when we tempted out a very responsive Nepal Wren-babbler. Further upstream along the Kosi River, we soon noticed a nice Wallcreeper resting on a big round boulder, and had great views of a pair of Brown Dippers feeding two young in a nest. Other riverine inhabitants included the usual Himalayan Pied Kingfishers, White-capped River-chats, Plumbeous Water-redstarts, and White-browed Wagtails. Later we visited the forest and clearings near Mohan, stopping along the way to admire a pair of Pallas’s Fish-eagles at their huge nest. Along the track to Camp Forktail we located a bird flock which held a rather tame Common Green Magpie, as well as a pair of one of the more difficult woodpeckers, Himalayan Flameback. Tall trees along the edge of the clearing beyond the camp held another good woodpecker, Great Slaty, three of which were scoped cavorting on a lofty bough, and we also saw our first Streak-throated Woodpecker and Long-billed Pipit. Moving inside Corbett National Park, to the station at Dhikala, we made a number of stops along the Ramganga River, small groups of Indian White-rumped Spinetails were in evidence, and there was a Lesser Fish-eagle sitting at close range below us at High Bank. A bird-wave held Blue-winged Minla, Whiskered Yuhina and Blyth’s Leaf-warbler. After settling in to the accommodation, we embarked on our first of several jeep rides around the extensive grasslands near Dhikala. It wasn’t long, before we were alerted to the presence of a Tiger nearby, and we quickly sped off, bouncing along the rough track. We arrived in the nick of time and, thanks to some canny manoeuvring by our driver, were soon staring at a large male Tiger resting in the sparse undergrowth adjacent to us. It was all a bit of a shock, as none of us had expected to see one here. Back in the grassland, during our various sorties, we found another much-wanted target species White-throated (or Hodgson’s ) Bushchat – a rare and little-known species recently found wintering regularly here – as well as Black Francolin, three species of harrier (including a fantastic male Pied), Bright-capped Cisticola, and several small herds of Asian Elephants. A large tusker gave us a momentary fright as it seemed to be heading straight for us, before suddenly turning off into the forest. Along the shore of the reservoir, local rarities included two male Common Goldeneye, Northern Lapwing and over 50 Bimaculated Larks. Around the Dhikala compound (now complete with electrified fence to keep out the Tigers!) were several wonderful Collared Falconets and our best seen Red-throated Flycatcher of the trip. Along a track to nearby Kinanauli, we were treated to a nice roosting Brown Fish-owl, but struggled with singing Grey-bellied Tesia and Pygmy Wren Babbler without success. The grass-fringed backwaters near here brought us a beautiful male Himalayan Rubythroat and several Crested Buntings, but Large Bush-warbler was only heard briefly and distantly. Not long before dusk, a cracking little Jungle Owlet appeared in the compound at Kinanauli, and posed there for photos. The journey back to the main park gate from Dhikala was also eventful, with three Oriental Pied Hornbills, a foraging group of Small-billed Scaly Thrushes and Grey-winged Blackbirds, and our second Wallcreeper. Leaving Corbett NP behind, we headed off for Naini Tal in the outer ranges of the Himalayas. On the way to Ramnagar me made a couple of short stops. The first involved a concentration of several breeding pairs of White-rumped Vultures, a rare sight these days, while the second was for a pair of snoozing Indian Scops-owls right outside some tea-stalls next to the busy road. Only in India! Just before reaching Naini Tal, we stopped for a brief spell of birding in the ‘low fields’. This proved a wise decision, as we saw our only three Bearded Vultures of the trip, soaring over the high peaks,


where the last rays of sunshine illuminated there unique features. A Goral standing motionless on a grassy slope was also a bonus. Our first day up in the hills was spent along the very birdy road down to Sat Tal. In the scrub and small fields we found plenty of Black-throated Accentors (completely absent last year), with the more frequently seen Rufous-breasted (though that was scarce this year), small groups of Himalayan Greenfinches and White-capped Buntings, and lots of neat Cinnamon Sparrows. Small numbers of Alpine Swifts were unexpected. Various trails near the lakes themselves brought multiple sightings of the much sought-after Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush, as well as a fearless Scaly-breasted Wren-babbler, several Red-billed Leiothrixes, Black-chinned Babbler, Himalayan Orange-flanked Bush-Robin, and both Blue-fronted and Blue-capped Redstarts. Along the temple trail, a female Chestnut Bunting was a big surprise, being well outside its normal range. Our second day in the Naini Tal area was spent exploring the road to Pangot and beyond, as far a steep grassy ridge, where we had tried our best to see Cheer Pheasant on the previous tour. This year however, we were not to be denied, as fortune was on our side. No sooner had we heard their distinctive shrill cries, than Jim called out “I think I’ve got them”. Sure enough, there they were, a pair of adults feeding completely in the open on a steep, short-grassed slope, where they remained for more than an hour, and as long as we wished to study them. What an honour! On the drive back to Pangot, the driver slammed on the brakes, as a male and two female Koklass Pheasants were right on the road-verge in front of the mini-bus. Feeling rather satisfied with ourselves, we headed for Pangot, pausing for a nice cup of Garam Chai on the way. Lokesh, the guide at Jungle Lore lodge was kind enough to put some food out for the birds while we ate our lunch, and we were soon looking at four species of laughingthrush (White-throated, Striated, Streaked and Chestnut-crowned) scrapping for grains of rice with the superb Black-headed Jays, all right in front of us. As if alerted by the melee, an impressive adult Mountain Hawk-eagle circled overhead. On our last day in the Naini Tal area, we explored all the way along the road beyond Pangot, as far as its end at Kunjakharak Forest Resthouse. Over the two days, the beautiful mixed forests between Naini Tal and Kunjakharak also brought us Black Eagle, Brown-fronted Pied, Himalayan Pied and Rufous-bellied Woodpeckers, White-browed and Green Shrike Babblers, Rufous Sibia, Black-lored Yellow, Spot-winged and Yellow-browed Tits, lots of White-tailed Nuthatches, and Bar-tailed Treecreeper. Apart from Cheer Pheasant, the grassy slopes and clearings held Himalayan Buzzard, large wintering flocks of Altai Accentor, more Black-throated Accentors and Striated Prinias. Upland Pipit was unfortunately only heard. From Naini Tal, we had to make our way to Agra for the second leg of the tour, and this was done by taking the overnight sleeper train from Lalkua Junction. On the way to the station we had a morning to do some roadside forest birding on the way down to Kaladhungi. First, we stopped again at the low fields below Naini Tal. It was surprisingly cold, as the sun was taking forever to reach our secluded location. Instead, we were warmed by point blank views of Golden Bush-robin and our best looks at some ridiculously tame Kalij Pheasants. The forested valley slopes just uphill from Kaladhungi produced our fourth Asian Barred Owlet, a cracking Blue-bearded Bee-eater, two flocks of Black-chinned Yuhinas and good views of Pale-billed Flowerpecker. The train journey to Agra passed quickly and smoothly though, due to line-works, we had to get down at Mathura, and travel the last stretch to Agra in our now familiar mini-bus. Best not waste words trying to describe the world-renowned Taj Mahal, people just need to see it for themselves! Our tour of nearby Agra Fort was also of great Interest. Although we were mainly concerned with culture, we still managed to add a few new species to the list, notably six rather showy Indian Grey Hornbills in the Taj Mahal Garden. We headed off for Bharatpur, arriving at our excellent hotel, The Bagh, in time for lunch. On the way, we were lucky enough to notice an impressive Indian Black Ibis close to the road, our only one of the trip. Our reason for coming to Bharatpur of course, was to visit Keoladeo National Park, famed for its concentrations of large waterbirds and wintering waterfowl. Unfortunately, the gods hadn’t read the script, and the previous autumn’s monsoon had passed Keoladeo by, leaving it almost completely dry! As if this wasn’t enough, we were hit by a double whammy, when we learned that Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve had been closed due to a dispute


between the various classes of vehicle driver there. Anyway, one hurdle at a time! As far as Keoladeo NP was concerned, plan B involved a visit to nearby Bund Baretha to catch-up on our waterbirds. Several short stops on the way there brought us lots of goodies; birds seem to be everywhere in India, and this route was no exception. Patches of marsh and grassland supported a pair of Brown Crakes, some inquisitive Striated Babblers, and three species of weaver side-by-side, while dry fields supported a small number of Ashy-crowned Finch-larks. Bund Baretha itself was chock-a-block with birds, and I don’t think we could have asked for more. Highlights included Red-crested and Ferruginous Pochards, Indian Skimmer, two White-tailed Lapwings, a female Greater Painted-snipe, a singing and displaying Rufous-tailed Lark, a female Variable Wheatear, and both Indian Reed- and Smoky Leaf-warblers. We paid a visit to the abandoned Kishen Mahal Palace, which boasts a superb view across the wetlands here, and drank chai in the shade while huge flocks of Rock Pigeons and Rose-ringed Parakeets fed on grain that the old caretaker had put out for them. All that remained in the park at Keoladeo, was to track down the non-waterbirds! As usual, the guides had various nightbirds staked-out at there daytime roosts, and we were lucky enough to see Dusky Eagle-owl on the nest, another pair of Indian Scops-owls, a beautiful rufous morph Oriental Scops-owl, Spotted Owlet, Brown Hawk-owl, and both Large-tailed and the recently split Indian Jungle Nightjars. Certain resident woodland species were also high on our want-list, and we succeeded in tracking down Common Hawk-cuckoo, Indian Pygmy and Yellow-fronted Pied Woodpeckers, Brown-headed Barbet, White-eared Bulbul, and a male Marshall’s Iora. There is usually at least one surprise at Keoladeo, and this year it was a beautiful female White-bellied Minivet, hanging-out with a flock of Small Minivets. A few puddles and flashes of water remained around Keoladeo Temple and Sapanmori, attracting a mixed flock of Sarus and Common Cranes, Black-necked Stork, and much reduced numbers of raptors which, nevertheless included Greater Spotted, Eastern Imperial, Booted and Bonelli’s Eagles. Forays into the grassland area at the far end of the park failed to produce the much-wanted Indian Spotted Eagle, but instead brought us great views of a Brooks’s Leaf-warbler and an amazing Indian Crested Porcupine in broad daylight. Well, as luck would have it, the dispute at Ranthambhore was resolved, and leaving Keoladeo NP behind, we felt very positive. The drive to Sawai Madhopur, via Dausa and Lalkot was just as interesting as ever, despite the dry conditions. Not far south of Dausa we noticed a pair of superb Indian Coursers, and jumped out to get some great close views. A small group of Yellow-wattled Lapwings were the only ones that we saw. The Banas River held the only water that we noticed along the route, and even that was a pretty pathetic site, with no birds of real note. We carried on to our final destination, at Tiger Moon Resort on the outskirts of Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve. After check-in, we still had time to visit a nearby pool, where we were treated to superb views of about 35 or more Painted Sandgrouse coming to drink, as well as a pair of Savanna Nightjars, great views of a pair of White-naped Flamebacks, and large numbers of Dusky Crag-martins. A squadron of five Dalmatian Pelicans passed low overhead. The following day we did two separate jeep rides in Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve. The scenery was stunning and we were able to view an impressive assemblage of Indian mammals at close range. During the morning excursion, we were lucky enough to find a fairly confiding pair of Painted Spurfowl trundling across a rocky, sparsely vegetated slope. In the semi-desert areas surrounding the park, we found some tame Indian Bushlarks, another female Variable Wheatear, several Rufous-fronted Prinias, and another eight Painted Sandgrouse. Our customary excursion to Suriwal Lake will probably be remembered for the wrong reasons this year, as it was completely dry, apart from a small puddle with a Green Sandpiper on it, and the entire area was cultivated. Even the dry hills nearby could only produce a Sirkeer Malkoha. On the way there however, we checked a roosting area of Indian Stone-curlew, which this year held 21 birds. About an hours drive away, we were taken to a site for Blackbuck, but unfortunately the height of the mustard crops made viewing impossible this time. Instead, we contented ourselves with good views of the Red-headed Buntings that winter in the area. We drove back through Sawai Madhopur and paid a visit to Jhoomar Baori, a beautiful old palace poised on a hill-top overlooking the tiger reserve. We ate our lunch on the roof, while watching the Indian Vultures that breed on the nearby cliffs. In the afternoon we birded near Tiger Moon, adding little to our tally, but enjoying further views of


sandgrouse and nightjars. Immediately after dark, an Indian Eagle-owl began calling distantly...and then closer, but all we could manage was rather distant silhouette views with eye-shine, in the scope. Another time. On our third day we decided to visit a new site called Imlidihe, which is situated by the Banas River adjacent to the north-east boundary of Ranthambhore. Our two targets here were the declining Black-bellied Tern and more widespread Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse. On arrival by the riverside, soon after sun-up, we were immediately greeted by a superb Black-bellied Tern hovering in front of us! We drove across the shallow river and continued in search of sandgrouse. We stopped to scope some distant Great Thick-knees, which were hard to find this year. Meanwhile, Jim and our guide were watching and discussing a sighting behind us. We all turned around just in time to see a pack of five Indian Wolves casually trotting by like the local village dogs. Suddenly hit by the significance of this sighting we leapt back in the jeep and went after them. A few hundred metres on, and they were still there, trotting effortlessly and then turning to watch us. One even sat and scratched itself right in front of the jeep. It was an unforgettable experience. As the day warmed we continued our quest for Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, and were eventually rewarded by great views of a flock of 15. Also of note here were a tired-looking Great White Pelican, a nice male opistholeuca Variable Wheatear, and some cracking Rosy Starlings. After lunch back at Tiger Moon, we made our last jeep excursion into the park and, this time, had much more success. We new that a female and her three eight-month old cubs were on our route and, about half-way into the ride, we got the word that they had been spotted and headed off to the place. It wasn’t long before we could all see two of the cubs (though they were a bit too big to still be called cubs!) lying down, and eventually all three were seen, and even heard growling as they playfully fought with each other. What a great mammal day! Our final mornings birding of the tour was spent following a rocky ravine into the hills behind Tiger Moon, good views of commoner species were had, and we even found some Leopard scat. But I guess our minds were pretty much elsewhere. Dosing on the train ride back to Delhi, we were able to reflect back on an another excellent tour to this amazing country.


SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). PODICEPEDIDAE Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis: Commonly recorded during the second half of the tour, including

at least 60 at Bund Baretha. Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus: Ten at Bund Baretha. PELECANIDAE Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus: Just a single bird in flight at Imlidihe. Dalmatian Pelican Pelecanus crispus: We were very fortunate to see a low-flying group of five near

Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve. PHALACROCORACIDAE Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger: Regularly recorded throughout. Indian Shag (I Cormorant) Phalacrocorax fuscicollis: Just a single bird with other cormorants at Bund

Baretha. Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo: Regular throughout. ANHINGIDAE Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster: A few scattered sightings. ARDEIDAE Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Common throughout. Great Egret Egretta alba: Common throughout. Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia: Scattered sightings of single birds during the second half of the

tour. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: Common throughout. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Frequently encountered during the second leg of the tour. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus: This recent split was commonly seen in suitable habitat

throughout. Indian Pond-heron Ardeola grayii: Common throughout, but particularly in more southerly areas. Striated Heron (Little H) Butorides striata: Singles at Ramnagar barrage and Ranthambhore TR. CICONIIDAE Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala: Just two at Bund Baretha. Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans: Scattered sightings of small numbers between the Ganges and

Sawai Madhopur. Black Stork Ciconia nigra: Small numbers were found at Corbett National Park. Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus: Three or four at Corbett NP, one at Ramnagar barrage and

one at Ranthambhore TR. Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus: Surely the finest stork in the region. A pair at

Dhikala, and just one or two at Keoladeo NP. THRESKIORNITHIDAE Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus: At least 20 at Bund Baretha. Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus: Scattered sightings of small numbers during the

second half of the tour. Indian Black Ibis (Red-naped I) Pseudibis papillosa: Close views of a glistening individual between

Agra and Bharatpur. Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia: About 30 at Bund Baretha.


PHOENICOPTERIDAE Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus: A single juvenile at Bund Baretha. ANATIDAE Lesser Whistling-duck Dendrocygna javanica: A single flock of up to 40 birds at Bund Baretha. Greylag Goose Anser anser: Reasonable numbers of eastern rubrirostris were wintering at various

sites on the southern leg of the tour. Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus: The maximum count was 100 at Bund Baretha. Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea: Widespread and common in suitable wintering habitat. Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos: Just a single dosing bird at Bund Baretha. Cotton Teal (C Pygmy-Goose) Nettapus coromandelianus: Very good numbers of this neat little duck

at Bund Baretha, with 300 estimated, and four at Ranthambhore TR. Gadwall Anas strepera: Relatively small numbers wintering in southern localities on the tour. Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope: Relatively small numbers wintering in southern localities on the

tour. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos: Just ten at Dhikala, and 20 at Bund Baretha. Indian Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha: Fairly common and widespread during the second

part of the tour. Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata: The commonest wintering duck along with Eurasian Teal. Northern Pintail Anas acuta: Rather scarce this year. Garganey Anas querquedula: Four at Bund Baretha. Eurasian Teal Anas crecca: See Northern Shoveler. Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina: A female at Ramnagar barrage was unexpected, and there were at

least 25 in the Eurasian Coot rafts at Bund Baretha. Common Pochard Aythya ferina: Five at Ramnagar barrage and 20 at Bund Baretha. Ferruginous Duck (F Pochard) Aythya nyroca: Just a single bird at Bund Baretha. Common Goldeneye Bucephala clangula: Two crisp males were seen flying above the early morning

mist at Dhikala. A rarity in this part of the world. ACCIPITRIDAE Oriental Honey-Buzzard (Crested H B) Pernis ptilorhyncus: Small numbers were regularly seen well. Black-winged Kite (B-shouldered K) Elanus caeruleus: Frequently seen in suitable habitats

throughout. Black Kite Milvus migrans: Common during the first half of the tour. Black-eared Kite Milvus lineatus: Single juveniles were identified at Suriwal Lake and near

Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve. Pallas’s Fish-Eagle Haliaeetus leucoryphus: At least six of these magnificent birds in the

Kumaria/Corbett NP area, including a pair at their huge nest. Lesser Fish-Eagle Ichthyophaga humilis: Two were found along the backwaters of Corbett NP. Bearded Vulture (Lammergeier) Gypaetus barbatus: In retrospect, we were extremely fortunate to see

three in flight together near Naini Tal. Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus: Occasional sightings. White-rumped Vulture (Indian White-backed V) Gyps bengalensis: Nine adults and three occupied

nests were seen five km before Ramnagar, as we departed Corbett NP. A regular nesting area for this troubled species.

Indian Vulture Gyps indicus: These cliff-nesters are still common at Ranthambhore, but we could only muster four birds at Jhoomar Baori. Only found in India, and adjacent extreme SE Pakistan.

Himalayan Vulture (H Griffon V, H Griffon) Gyps himalayensis: Up to 18 in the Corbett/Ramnagar/Naini Tal area.

Cinereous Vulture (Eurasian Black V) Aegypius monachus: Great views of at least three of these massive birds at Dhikala, a regular spot for this scarce vulture.

Red-headed Vulture Aegypius calvus: Small numbers throughout.


Crested Serpent-Eagle Spilornis cheela: Scattered singles throughout. Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus: Just two at Bund Baretha. Not much to feed on this year

at their usual haunts. Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus: At least three in the grasslands at Dhikala and another in the same

habitat at Keoladeo NP. Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus: A nice juvenile was watched hunting at Dhikala. Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucos: Once again, a beautiful male was seen extremely well at Dhikala. Shikra Accipiter badius: Scattered sightings of this common lowland raptor. Besra Sparrowhawk (Besra) Accipiter virgatus: One perched at close range at Keoladeo NP was most

unexpected. Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus: One was seen at close range in flight near Naini Tal. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo: A single dark morph bird was soaring above the entrance to

Ranthambhore TR one day. Himalayan Buzzard Buteo burmanicus: Two were seen well near Naini Tal. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis: Great views of this local rarity at Binayak ridge, near Naini Tal Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga: Numbers were well down at Keoladeo this year, with only 5

seen. Only one ‘fulvescens’ morph was noted, a very rusty juvenile. Another tatty bird at Sat Tal.

Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis: Four in the Naini Tal area. Eastern Imperial Eagle (Imperial E) Aquila heliaca: At least two adults at Keoladeo NP, A very

impressive eagle. Bonelli’s Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus: We saw a juvenile in Corbett NP, a pair of adults near Pangot,

and a juvenile at Keoladeo NP. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus: Just one perched at Keoladeo NP. Rufous-bellied Eagle Hieraaetus kienerii: An adult was seen soaring at Ramnagar barrage, though

rather too briefly. Changeable Hawk Eagle Spizaetus limnaeetus: A noisy perched juvenile was seen on several

occasions at Dhikala. Mountain Hawk Eagle Spizaetus nipalensis: Fantastic views of a soaring adult at Pangot. PANDIONIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus: Three at Corbett NP, and another at Bund Baretha. FALCONIDAE Collared Falconet Microhierax caerulescens: A good year, with two near Quality Inn, and at least

three at Dhikala. A really neat little falcon. Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: Regular sightings at scattered sites. Laggar Falcon Falco jugger: One was scoped roosting on one of the giant pylons at the Ganges

crossing, near Gajraula. Peregrine Falcon (Peregrine) Falco peregrinus: One Shaheen Falcon Falco p. peregrinator was seen

perched at Dhikala. PHASIANIDAE Black Francolin Francolinus francolinus: Small numbers along grassland tracks at Dhikala, and one

flushed in the ‘grassland area’ at Keoladeo NP. Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus: Common throughout, in suitable habitat. Painted Spurfowl Galloperdix lunulata: Jim spotted a fairly tame pair at Ranthambhore TR, foraging

right next to a track. Endemic to India. Koklass Pheasant Pucrasia macrolopha: We had great views of this overdue write-in. At least two

males and two females were seen along the roadside near Binayak. We were able to watch one male feeding for a considerable length of time, from the comfort of our vehicle.

Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus: Seen very well on several occasions in the north.


Kaleej Pheasant (Kalij P) Lophura leucomelanos: Superb views this year, particularly of an unbelievably tame group that were squabbling in the fields and scrub below us, near Naini Tal. At least 18 in total.

Cheer Pheasant Catreus wallichii: Hardly surprising that this rare Himalayan pheasant was the unanimous bird of the tour. Jim saved us a lot of effort when he quickly locked-on to a pair feeding out on an open slope. What an unbelievable stroke of good fortune, to see this secretive species so easily.

Indian Peafowl (Common P) Pavo cristatus: This well respected galliforme was common throughout, in suitable habitat.

GRUIDAE Sarus Crane Grus antigone: Considering the drought, we were fortunate to see 14 at Keoladeo NP,

including two displaying elegantly together. Common Crane Grus grus: Just two with the last species. RALLIDAE White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus: Common during the second leg of the tour. Brown Crake Porzana akool: Two on the way to Bund Baretha, and one at Ranthambhore. Great

views, and even watched giving its Little-Grebe-like song. Grey-headed Swamphen (G-h Gallinule) Porphyrio poliocephalus: 15 during the day that we visited

Bund Baretha. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Common during the second leg of the tour. Eurasian Coot (Common C) Fulica atra: Abundant at Bund Baretha, with over 1,500 logged. Just

scattered sightings elsewhere. JACANIDAE Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus: Six at Bund Baretha and three at Ranthambhore

TR; all in non-breeding plumage. Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus: Similar numbers to the last species; at the same places. ROSTRATULIDAE Greater Painted-Snipe Rostratula benghalensis: Good views of a female on a small pool near Bund

Baretha. CHARADRIIDAE Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: Just four at the Ganges and two at Corbett NP. Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus: Four at Bund Baretha, and ten on the Banas River near

Sawai Madhopur. Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus: A single bird at Dhikala. Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus: We found five with the Indian Coursers on the way to

Sawai Madhopur. River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii: Regularly seen along rivers throughout. Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus: Common throughout; one of the most familiar shorebirds of

the region. White-tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus: A very poor year with just two at Bund Baretha, and two on

the Banas River near Sawai Madhopur. SCOLOPACIDAE Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago: Small numbers during the second half of the trip. Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa: Fairly common during the second half of the trip, particularly at

Bund Baretha. Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata: Three at Bund Baretha and two on the Banas River near Sawai

Madhopur.


Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus: Small numbers during the second half of the tour. Common Redshank Tringa totanus: Small numbers were regularly seen. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: Commonly recorded throughout. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis: Small numbers during the second half of the tour. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus: Small numbers throughout. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: Fairly common in marshy wetlands during the second half of the

trip. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: Commonly recorded throughout. Little Stint Calidris minuta: Reasonable numbers on the Ganges and Banas Rivers. Temminck’s Stint Calidris temminckii: Small numbers, particularly during the latter part of the tour,

but great views on several occasions. Dunlin Calidris alpina: Just one at Bund Baretha and one on the Banas River near Sawai Madhopur. Ruff Philomachus pugnax: Only one at Keoladeo NP, but at least 20 at Bund Baretha. RECURVIROSTRIDAE Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus: Probably the commonest and most widespread

shorebird. Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta: Three had taken up residence on the shrinking sandgrouse pool

near Tiger Moon. BURHINIDAE Indian Stone-curlew (I Thick-knee) Burhinus indicus: Goggle-eye was seen very well near Sawai

Madhopur (21 by the track to Suriwal Lake). This is a recent split from Eurasian Stone-Curlew Burhinus oedicnemus; being very distinct in its proportions and vocalisations.

Great Thick-knee Esacus recurvirostris: Just three at Imlidihe, before we got distracted by the Indian Wolves.

GLAREOLIDAE Indian Courser Cursorius coromandelicus: Once again, we found this species in a roadside dry area

between Bharatpur and Sawai Madhopur. A pair were seen at close range, for an extended period, not far south of Dausa.

LARIDAE Steppe Gull Larus [cachinnans] barabensis: Three adults on the Ganges near Gajraula. Although

Caspian Gull L. cachinnans is now generally accepted as a valid species, the affinities of the present form remain more open to debate; though it is generally regarded as a race of Caspian.

Great Black-headed Gull (Pallas’s G) Larus ichthyaetus: Five were at the Ganges crossing, and there were singles at Bund Baretha and Imlidihe.

Brown-headed Gull Larus brunnicephalus: Just one found by Lotta at the Ganges. Common Black-headed Gull (Black-headed G) Larus ridibundus: About 60 at The Ganges. Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica: One very distant bird at Bund Baretha. River Tern Sterna aurantia: Only very small numbers of this sleek tern this year, with a maximum

count of just six at Imlidihe. Black-bellied Tern Sterna acuticauda: Three at Imlidihe. This lovely tern is in decline, and is now

almost extinct in SE Asia for example. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida: Small numbers at Bund Baretha and Ranthambhore. RYNCHOPIDAE Indian Skimmer Rynchops albicollis: We were lucky to find one resting on an island at Bund Baretha.

It even managed to wake up and do a brief skim for us!


PTEROCLIDAE Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles exustus: Great views of 15 foraging birds at Imlidihe. Painted Sandgrouse Pterocles indicus: This attractive sandgrouse was seen very well at the

sandgrouse pool behind Tiger Moon Resort, near Ranthambhore TR; at least 35 birds. We also disturbed a group of eight in the dry area opposite the park entrance.

COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon (R Dove) Columba livia: Although this species is typically ignored, the large flocks of

wild pure stock birds in India are actually pretty impressive. The local race is intermedia, which lacks white on the lower back.

Oriental Turtle-dove (Rufous T-D) Streptopelia orientalis: Small numbers during the first part of the tour.

Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis: Frequent in drier, southern regions. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Singles near Quality Inn and at Ranthambhore were the only

ones recorded. Red Collared-dove (R Turtle-D) Streptopelia tranquebarica: A superb male at Keoladeo NP. Eurasian Collared-dove Streptopelia decaocto: Fairly common throughout. Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica: One was flushed from the track in front of our jeep near Dhikala. Yellow-footed Green-Pigeon Treron phoenicopterus: Good numbers as usual in the Keoladeo and

Ranthambhore areas. The distinctive race is chlorigaster, which is restricted to the Indian subcontinent.

PSITTACIDAE Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria: Scattered sightings, mainly in flight. Rose-ringed Parakeet (Ring-necked P) Psittacula krameri: One of the commonest and most familiar

Indian birds. Himalayan Parakeet (Slaty-headed P) Psittacula himalayana: Good numbers in the north. Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala: This striking parakeet was frequently seen

throughout. CUCULIDAE Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis: Regular throughout. Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis: At least four in the Dhikala grasslands. Sirkeer Malkoha Taccocua leschenaultii: A single at Suriwal Lake and three near the sandgrouse Pool

at Tiger Moon. Great views. Green-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis: One crashing about in dense foliage near Dhikala. Asian Koel (Common K) Eudynamys scolopaceus: Three in flight at the Taj Mahal. Common Hawk-Cuckoo Hierococcyx varius: Singles of this Accipiter-like cuckoo were seen at

Keoladeo NP and Ranthambhore TR. STRIGIDAE Oriental Scops-owl Otus sunia: Great looks at a roosting rufous morph at Keoladeo NP, thanks to

Ansar’s brother. Indian Scops-owl Otus bakkamoena: We had great views of a roadside roosting pair near Ramnagar,

and then a more hidden roosting pair at Keoladeo Temple. Indian Eagle-owl (Rock E-O) Bubo bengalensis: Unfortunately, we could only manage rather poor

silhouette views of a calling bird near the Tiger Moon sandgrouse pool. Dusky Eagle-owl Bubo coromandus: Great views of a bird at the nest, right above the main road

from Keoladeo NP to Bharatpur town. Several were heard giving their distinctive call in the park.

Brown Fish-owl Ketupa zeylonensis: Superb views of a roosting bird, thanks to our guides, near Kinanauli, Corbett NP and another, apparently feeding in broad daylight, by a backwater at Dhikala.


Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei: Lotta was lucky enough to see one that was being hammered by a bird-wave near Naini Tal. Two others were heard.

Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides: Great views of singles near Quality Inn, Sat Tal, outside Vikram Vintage Inn, Naini Tal, and on the way down to Kinanauli

Jungle Owlet Glaucidium radiatum: Superb views of one in daytime at Kinanauli. Spotted Owlet Athene brama: At least 14 were logged during the second part of the tour. Brown Hawk-owl (B Boobook) Ninox scutulata: Ansar showed us a roosting bird at Keoladeo NP,

and we were able to get excellent scope views. CAPRIMULGIDAE Indian Jungle Nightjar (Jungle N) Caprimulgus indicus: Fantastic views of a roosting bird at Keoladeo

NP. This is a recent split from the more widespread Grey Nightjar, which is now called Caprimulgus jotaka.

Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus: The guides at Keoladeo NP finally tracked us down a roosting bird on our last afternoon there.

Savanna Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis: Fantastic views of a pair over the sandgrouse pool near Tiger Moon Resort, where they come to drink and feed every evening.

APODIDAE Himalayan Swiftlet Aerodramus brevirostris: A flock of 60 near Quality Inn. Indian White-rumped Spinetail (W-r Needletail) Zoonavena sylvatica: At least twenty during our

drive to Dhikala, at Corbett NP. Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba: We saw plenty in the Corbett/Naini Tal area this year, many more

than is usual. Little Swift Apus affinis: Regularly seen in small numbers. HEMIPROCNIDAE Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata: Good numbers of this gangly swift at Corbett NP. ALCEDINIDAE Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: As its name suggests. Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis: Great views of a highly agitated bird at Ranthambhore

TR, and another heard. White-throated Kingfisher (W-breasted K) Halcyon smyrnensis: Also common throughout. Himalayan Pied Kingfisher (Crested K) Ceryle lugubris: This impressive bird was common along the

rivers of the north. Lesser Pied Kingfisher (Pied K) Ceryle rudis: Scattered throughout. MEROPIDAE Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni: Singles where seen well near Quality Inn, and above

Kaladhungi. Little Green Bee-eater (Green B-e) Merops orientalis: Small numbers, particularly in the drier

southern locations. CORACIIDAE Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis: Scattered throughout. UPUPIDAE Common Hoopoe (Eurasian H) Upupa epops: Regularly seen throughout. BUCEROTIDAE Indian Grey Hornbill Ocyceros birostris: Six were very visible in the gardens at the Taj Mahal in

Agra, and two were regularly seen in the garden at The Bagh.


Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris: A total of six in the Corbett NP area. A tough one to see here, near the western limit of its range.

MEGALAIMIDAE Great Barbet Megalaima virens: Small numbers in the Naini Tal area. Brown-headed Barbet Megalaima zeylanica: One was seen well at Keoladeo NP; several others were

heard. Lineated Barbet Megalaima lineata: This more widespread barbet was seen well around Corbett NP. Blue-throated Barbet Megalaima asiatica: One was apparently excavating a nest-hole near Quality

Inn, and two other singles were seen in the north. Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala: Scattered sightings of this widespread barbet. PICIDAE Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla: The ‘little twisted jynx’ was regularly seen well throughout the tour,

sometimes in some surprisingly barren landscapes. Indian Pygmy Woodpecker (Brown-capped P W/W) Dendrocopos nanus: Great views of one at

Keoladeo NP. Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker (G-c Woodpecker) Dendrocopos canicapillus: Small numbers in

the north. Brown-fronted Pied Woodpecker (Brown-fronted W) Dendrocopos auriceps: Four in the Naini Tal

area. Fulvous-breasted Pied Woodpecker (F-breasted W) Dendrocopos macei: Small numbers seen well in

the north. As currently defined, this species is now a near subcontinent-endemic, extending only to W and N Myanmar.

Yellow-fronted Pied Woodpecker (Y-crowned W) Dendrocopos mahrattensis: Two different birds showed well at Keoladeo NP.

Himalayan Pied Woodpecker (Himalayan W) Dendrocopos himalayensis: Great views of two at Binayak, near Naini Tal.

Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Dendrocopos hyperythrus: Great views of a male and female along the Kilbury road, near Naini Tal. My favourite woodpecker.

Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus: Seen well near Quality Inn and Naini Tal. Greater Yellownape Picus flavinucha: Small numbers in the Corbett NP area. Streak-throated Woodpecker Picus xanthopygaeus: As the last species. Grey-faced Woodpecker Picus canus: Small numbers in the north. Himalayan Flameback Dinopium shorii: Great views of a pair near Quality Inn. Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense: Frequently encountered. Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes lucidus: A female was seen entering a nest-hole above Quality

Inn, and we later saw two at Dhikala. White-naped Flameback (W-n Woodpecker) Chrysocolaptes festivus: Extremely easy to see this year,

with at least three birds on the outskirts of Ranthambhore TR. Great Slaty Woodpecker Mulleripicus pulverulentus: Seen well near Quality Inn. Why are they

always in three’s? Heard at Dhikala. ALAUDIDAE Indian Bushlark Mirafra erythroptera: First found by Liz, we had excellent views of several confiding

birds during the southern leg of the tour. Ashy-crowned Finch-lark (A-c Sparrow-Lark) Eremopterix grisea: Quite common during the latter part

of the tour. One of the more attractive larks. Rufous-tailed Lark Ammomanes phoenicura: A singing and displaying male at Bund Baretha, and an

unexpected pair by the Tiger Moon sandgrouse pool. Bimaculated Lark Melanocorypha bimaculata: 50 or so at Dhikala were unusual, whereas 60 at

Suriwal Lake and 25 at Imlidihe were more expected. The difference in size between this and the next species, when side-by-side, is quite something.


Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla: Particularly common at Suriwal Lake, where at least 400 were logged.

Sand Lark Calandrella raytal: Four were seen at the Ganges River. Crested Lark Galerida cristata: Small numbers at Suriwal Lake and Imlidihe. Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula: Common at Dhikala, and also found at Bund Baretha. HIRUNDINIDAE Grey-throated Sand-Martin Riparia chinensis: Common throughout. There was an active breeding

colony at Bund Baretha. Eurasian Crag-Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris: Ten or so were feeding over some birding grassland

near the end of the road, beyond Binayak, near Naini Tal. Dusky Crag-Martin Ptyonoprogne concolor: Common in and around Ranthambhore and also seen at

Ramnagar. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Locally common throughout. Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica: Fairly common throughout. Streak-throated Swallow (Indian Cliff S) Hirundo fluvicola: A good year, with at least 15 at Keoladeo

and no fewer than 40 at Ranthambhore. Nepal House-Martin Delichon nipalense: Common in the Naini Tal area, and a few near Quality Inn. MOTACILLIDAE White Wagtail Motacilla [alba] alba: Fairly common in more southerly areas. Masked Wagtail Motacilla [alba] personata: Somewhat less common then alba. Amur Wagtail Motacilla [alba] leucopsis: Just one by the Ganges, with the previous two forms. White-browed Wagtail Motacilla madaraspatensis: This conspicuous subcontinent endemic was

regularly recorded throughout. Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola: Relatively small numbers were regularly seen throughout, though

70 were seen on some small pools at Keoladeo NP. Sykes’s Wagtail Motacilla [flava] beema: One male at Keoladeo NP, and three at Suriwal Lake. Grey-headed Wagtail Motacilla [flava] thunbergi: Commoner than the last form. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: Regular sightings of this wintering Palearctic species throughout. Richard’s Pipit Anthus richardi: Four or five in the Dhikala grasslands. Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus: Small numbers of this resident at scattered locations. Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris: Fairly common in drier areas during the second leg of the tour. Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis: One near Quality Inn, and at least three in the Dhikala grasslands. Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni: Five near Quality Inn, and 20 at Sat Tal. Rosy Pipit Anthus roseatus: One at the Ganges crossing, and two in the Dhikala grasslands. Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta: One was seen very well with a large gathering of wagtails at Keoladeo

NP. This is the central Asian race coutellii. Upland Pipit Anthus sylvanus (H): Unfortunately this one gave us the slip near Kunjakharak, after

calling close by. CAMPEPHAGIDAE Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei: One briefly at Dhikala, and another that that performed much

better in the Tiger Moon garden. Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus: Frequently seen in dry woodland during the latter half of

the tour. White-bellied Minivet Pericrocotus erythropygius: We were extremely lucky to stumble across a

female, in with a small flock of the last species, at Keoladeo. Very erratic in its occurrence on this tour itinerary, and a three-star diamond bird!

Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus: Small numbers in the north. Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosus: Slightly commoner than the last species, in the same general

areas.


Pied Flycatcher-shrike (Bar-winged F-S) Hemipus picatus: This relative of the minivets was also regularly encountered in the north.

Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus: Occasional sightings throughout. RHIPIDURIDAE White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola: The common fantail of the southern locations. White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis: The common fantail of the northern locations. Yellow-bellied Fantail Rhipidura hypoxantha: This curious little fantail was occasional encountered

in the north. PYCNONOTIDAE Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus flaviventris: Three in the Corbett NP area. Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus: Small numbers in and around Corbett NP. White-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus leucotis: This attractive bulbul was regularly seen in dry woodland

during the southern leg of the tour. Himalayan Bulbul (White-cheeked B) Pycnonotus leucogenys: Common in the north. Restricted to

the Himalayan region of the Indian subcontinent. Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus caffer: Seen throughout; one of the commonest birds of the tour. Ashy Bulbul Hemixos flavala: 12 at Dhikala and four above Kaladhungi. This is the nominate race.

Further east in its range, there are some very distinct races, which could be split. Himalayan Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus: Good numbers this year, in the north. AEGITHINIDAE Common Iora Aegithina tiphia: Two at Jhoomar Baori. Marshall’s Iora (White-tailed I) Aegithina nigrolutea: A male responded splendidly to tape-playback

at Keoladeo, showing its salient features. CHLOROPSEIDAE Gold-fronted Leafbird (Golden-fronted L) Chloropsis aurifrons: Nice views of two near Quality Inn. LANIIDAE Xinjiang Shrike (Chinese S) Lanius isabellinus: Just two at Keoladeo NP. Bay-backed Shrike Lanius vittatus: Regularly seen in small numbers during the second half of the

tour. Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach: Common throughout. Grey-backed Shrike Lanius tephronotus: One at Corbett NP, and two at Sat Tal. Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis: This beautifully crisp shrike was regularly seen at the

southern locations. The race here is lahtora, which shows a very full dark mask that extends onto the forehead.

CINCLIDAE Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasi: A pair at Quality Inn were feeding two chicks in a nest. PRUNELLIDAE Altai Accentor Prunella himalayana: Between Binayak and Kunjakharak, near Naini Tal, we found at

least 200 wintering, and had some great views. Rufous-breasted Accentor Prunella strophiata: Just six at Sat Tal. Black-throated Accentor Prunella atrogularis: Despite a distinct lack of cold weather migrants, we

found at least 27 of these excellent birds in the Naini Tal area. MUSCICAPIDAE Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina: Excellent views of a fairly tame bird at Keoladeo NP.


Small-billed Scaly Thrush (Scaly T) Zoothera dauma: Rather fleeting views for some of us, of two feeding amongst leaf-litter in Corbett NP.

Tickell’s Thrush Turdus unicolor: Three at Sat Tal, and then a very tame female at Keoladeo NP. Grey-winged Blackbird Turdus boulboul: Two at Corbett NP, and three near Naini Tal. Black-throated Thrush Turdus atrogularis: At least 15 near Naini Tal. Blue Whistling-thrush Myophonus caeruleus: One of the most familiar birds during the first half of

the tour. Maximum day count was 15 at Sat Tal. MUSCICAPIDAE Orange-gorgeted Flycatcher (Rufous-gorgeted F) Ficedula strophiata: Regularly seen in the north. Red-breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parva: Common during the southern leg of the tour. Red-throated Flycatcher (Taiga F) Ficedula albicilla: Singles were studied closely at Corbett NP and

Sat Tal. Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni: Just two females in the north. Slaty-blue Flycatcher Ficedula tricolor: Some great views of males in the north; very easy this year. Small Niltava Niltava macgrigoriae: Several stunning males in the north. Rufous-bellied Niltava Niltava sundara: Slightly commoner than the last species, and even more

impressive. Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae: A male was seen well near Bund Baretha. Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher (G-h Flycatcher) Culicicapa ceylonensis: Frequently seen. Blue Rock-thrush Monticola solitarius: A single male at Bund Baretha. Himalayan Rubythroat (White-tailed R) Luscinia pectoralis: Three at Corbett NP, including a stunning

male. Bluethroat Luscinia svecica: Scattered sightings, mainly in the south, with some exceptionally tame

individuals at Keoladeo. Himalayan Red-flanked Bush-robin (H R-f Bluetail) Tarsiger rufilatus: Five female-plumaged birds in

the north. A recent split from Orange-flanked Bush Robin (Red-flanked Bluetail) Tarsiger cyanurus.

Golden Bush-robin Tarsiger chrysaeus: Outstanding views of a presumed first-winter male in the low fields near Naini Tal.

Oriental Magpie-robin Copsychus saularis: Quite common during the latter half of the tour. White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus: Singles at Quality Inn and during our exit from

Dhikala. Indian Black Robin (Indian R) Saxicoloides fulicatus: This distinctive chat, another Indian

subcontinent endemic, was frequently encountered away from the Himalayas. Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros: ‘Eastern Black Redstarts’ were commonly encountered during

the latter part of the tour. Subspecies rufiventris. Blue-fronted Redstart Phoenicurus frontalis: At least eight in the north, including some superb males. Blue-capped Redstart Phoenicurus coeruleocephala: Eight of these neat, but rather unusual, redstarts

in the Naini Tal area. Probably one of the most badly named birds. White-capped River-Chat (W-c Water-Redstart, R Chat) Chaimarrornis leucocephalus: Along with

Plumbeous Water-redstart, a common riverine species in the north. Plumbeous Water-redstart (P Redstart) Rhyacornis fuliginosa: See former. Little Forktail Enicurus scouleri: We found a very time, tail-pulsing individual along the Ranikhet

Road from Quality Inn. Spotted Forktail Enicurus maculatus: Two with the Little Forktail, and another near Pangot. White-throated Bushchat (Hodgson’s B) Saxicola insignis: This year we estimated at least five birds in

grassland near Dhikala, and we had some great views. This little-known Central Asian breeder was recently discovered wintering regularly in Corbett NP.

Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maura: Common throughout. Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata: Fairly common away from the most northerly areas. Grey Bushchat Saxicola ferreus: Fairly common in the north.


Variable Wheatear Oenanthe picata: We had prolonged views of female picata at Bund Baretha and in the dry area opposite the Ranthambhore TR entrance; as well as a superb male opistholeuca at Imlidihe.

Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti: At least 26 in dry areas of the south, including 20 at Imlidihe alone.

Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina: At least four. Brown Rock-chat Cercomela fusca: Regularly seen throughout, either around buildings, or in rocky

areas. TIMALIIDAE White-throated Laughingthrush Garrulax albogularis: At Pangot, Lokesh kindly fed the garden birds

for us, which here consisted of a timid, bounding flock of at least 60 of this wonderful laughingthrush.

White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucocephalus: A few in the Quality Inn/Corbett NP area. Striated Laughingthrush Grammatoptila striata: Fantastic views of a pair of these sturdy, floppy-

crested laughingthrushes in the White-throated flock; and two more along the road to Naini Tal.

Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush Ianthocincla rufogularis: A great year for this skulker, with three different encounters in the Lantana scrub near Sat Tal. At least five in total. This laughingthrush is rather scarce throughout its range, and also most attractive.

Streaked Laughingthrush Trochalopteron lineatum: A garden bird in the Naini Tal area and pretty much a western Himalayan speciality.

Red-headed Laughingthrush (Chestnut-crowned L) Garrulax erythrocephalum: Great views of two with the White-throated Laughingthrush flock.

Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-babbler Pomatorhinus erythrogenys: Small numbers showed nicely in the Corbett NP and Naini Tal areas.

Scaly-breasted Wren-babbler Pnoepyga albiventer: Superb views of a dark morph bird along the temple trail at Sat Tal. Another was heard.

Nepal Wren-babbler Pnoepyga immaculata: A single bird was more than happy to be tempted right out into the open by a roadside near Quality Inn. Another was singing by the forktail stream along the Ranikhet Road. Until quite recently this species was thought to be endemic to Nepal, but is now known as far west as Himachal Pradesh.

Pygmy Wren-babbler Pnoepyga pusilla (H): Two different birds were singing in Corbett NP, not far from Dhikala and Kinanauli. Right on the limit of its range.

Black-chinned Babbler Stachyris pyrrhops: Common in the north. This little babbler has a restricted range in the west and central Himalayas.

Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense: Regularly seen throughout. Common Babbler Turdoides caudatus: Very common during the latter part of the tour. Striated Babbler Turdoides earlei: We had great views of this grass-loving babbler on the way to

Bund Baretha; five birds. Large Grey Babbler Turdoides malcolmi: Common away from the more northerly areas. We saw

several flocks of over 50 birds in the Ranthambhore area. Jungle Babbler Turdoides striatus: One of the commonest and most familiar birds of the tour, if not

much of India. Red-billed Leiothrix Leiothrix lutea: Five showed very well at Sat Tal. Blue-winged Minla Minla cyanouroptera: Four at Corbett NP, one at Sat Tal, and four above

Kaladhungi. This is the beautifully-coloured nominate race, at the western extremity of its range. Further east in South-East Asia, there are some distinctive races that probably deserve separate species status.

Rufous Sibia Heterophasia capistrata: This attractive bright sibia of the west and central Himalayas was quite common around Naini Tal.

Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis: Four were seen with the minlas at Corbett.


Black-chinned Yuhina Yuhina nigrimenta: Two groups totalling 13 birds along the road down to Kaladhungi from Naini Tal. Also right at the western extremity of its range.

White-browed Shrike-babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis: One seen badly and two heard along the Kilbury Road, near Naini Tal.

Green Shrike-babbler Pteruthius xanthochlorus: Great views of one of these vireo-like babblers along the Kilbury road, Naini Tal.

CISTICOLIDAE Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis: Four in the Dhikala grasslands, and two in similar habitat at

Keoladeo NP. Bright-capped Cisticola (B-headed C) Cisticola exilis: Five in grassland at Dhikala; in long-tailed non-

breeding plumage. Striated Prinia Prinia crinigera: Very good views of this large skulking prinia in the Naini Tal area; at

least three seen. Rufous-fronted Prinia Prinia buchanani: A dry country specialist, and fairly common in several areas

in the Ranthambhore area. Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii: Common throughout. Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis: One at Ramnagar, and three at Keoladeo NP. Jungle Prinia Prinia sylvatica: Just one of these big brown jobs at Ranthambhore TR. Plain Prinia Prinia inornata: One of the commonest and most widespread species during the tour. Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius: Regularly seen throughout. SYLVIIDAE Chestnut-headed Tesia Tesia castaneocoronata: Brief views for some of us in the forest above

Kaladhungi. Two others were heard at Sat Tal. Yellow-browed Tesia (Grey-bellied T) Tesia cyaniventer (H): A singing bird between Dhikala and

Kinanauli refused to show itself. Large Bush-warbler (Chestnut-crowned B W) Cettia major (H): One sang-back briefly from the grass-

fringed backwaters near Kinanauli. Grey-sided Bush-warbler Cettia brunnifrons: A poor year, with just two showing very poorly at Sat

Tal. Aberrant Bush-warbler Cettia flavolivacea: Good views of singles on the way into Corbett NP, and in

the low fields near Naini Tal. Blyth’s Reed-warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum: One in Corbett NP, and two at Keoladeo NP. Indian Reed-warbler Acrocephalus brunnescens: Considering the drought at Keoladeo NP, we were

very fortunate to get excellent views of one at Bund Baretha. This is a recent split from Clamorous Reed-Warbler A. stentoreus.

Siberian Chiffchaff Phylloscopus tristis: Regularly seen throughout the tour. Another recent split. Smoky Leaf-warbler (Smoky Warbler) Phylloscopus fuligiventer: This is another bird that has been

very hard to find in recent years. We saw one foraging along the edge of a pool behind the dam at Bund Baretha. It breeds at high altitude along a narrow band in the central Himalayas and winters by grassy wetlands in the north and north-east subcontinent.

Orange-barred Leaf-warbler (Buff-barred Warbler) Phylloscopus pulcher: Quite common in the Naini Tal area.

Grey-faced Leaf-warbler (Ashy-throated Warbler) Phylloscopus maculipennis: Good looks at two between Naini Tal and Kunjakharak.

Lemon-rumped Leaf-warbler (L-r Warbler) Phylloscopus chloronotus: This Pallas’s look-alike was fairly common in the north.

Brooke’s Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus subviridis: Brilliant views, thanks to our guide Ansar’s tip-off, of one feeding in a line of small trees in the Keoladeo grasslands.

Hume’s Leaf-warbler (Hume’s W) Phylloscopus humei: Regular sightings, away from the most northerly areas.

Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides: One at Keoladeo Temple.


Blyth’s Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus reguloides: One in Corbett National Park. Grey-hooded Warbler Phylloscopus xanthoschistos: Common in the north. Whistler’s Warbler Seicercus whistleri: Frequently seen in the north. Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca: Common, particularly in the drier southern areas. Eastern Orphean Warbler Sylvia crassirostris: Thanks to Ansar, we saw a nice male at Keoladeo NP. AEGITHALIDAE Red-headed Tit (Black-throated T) Aegithalos concinnus: This sprightly little tit was particularly

numerous along the Kunjakharak road, forming the nucleus of several bird-waves. PARIDAE Spot-winged Tit Parus melanolophus: About 40 of these Coal Tit-like tits along the Kunjakharak Road

and at Snow View. A west Himalayan speciality. Grey Tit Parus cinereus: Frequently seen away from the mountains. This is a long overdue split. Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus: Common in the Naini Tal area. Black-lored Yellow Tit (Black-lored T) Parus xanthogenys: Frequently encountered in northern areas.

This species, as currently defined, is restricted to the west and central Himalayas. Yellow-browed Tit Sylviparus modestus: At least two in bird-waves along the Kunjakharak road, near

Naini Tal. SITTIDAE Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta cinnamoventris: This little cracker was regularly seen in northern

areas. White-tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensis: Common this year, along the road to Kunjakharak, near

Naini Tal. At least 22 estimated. Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis: Similar numbers and sites to Chestnut-bellied. Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria: Super views of two along rocky streams in Corbett National Park. CERTHIIDAE Bar-tailed Treecreeper Certhia himalayana: Regularly seen in the Corbett NP/Naini Tal area. Spotted Creeper Salpornis spilonotus (H): My worst jinx bird ever, I have not seen it since 1981! Even

though we heard it call this year, we still couldn’t find it. DICAEIDAE Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile: One leader-only bird along the Ranikhet Road, above

Quality Inn. Pale-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum erythrorhynchos: Four were seen well along the road above

Kaladhungi. Fire-breasted Flowerpecker (Buff-bellied F) Dicaeum ignipectus: Just two in the north, but the male at

Sat Tal was so obliging. NECTARINIIDAE Purple Sunbird Nectarinia asiatica: Common in drier, more southerly areas, and particularly

abundant outside Ranthambhore TR. Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis: This gem was seen several times around Naini Tal. Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja: Three near Quality Inn, but no full-on males. ZOSTEROPIDAE Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus: Common throughout. EMBERIZIDAE Crested Bunting Melophus lathami: Four sat up for us in grassland at Kinanauli. Rock Bunting Emberiza cia: Small numbers around Naini Tal.


White-capped Bunting Emberiza stewarti: Ten at Sat Tal and 20 or so in the Ranthambhore area. Chestnut Bunting Emberiza rutila: A female of this eastern bunting was a big surprise along the

temple trail at Sat Tal. Well out of range, and consequently a write-in. Red-headed Bunting Emberiza bruniceps: WE finally tracked down some small flocks of this large

bunting in the mustard fields between Suriwal Lake and the Blackbuck area, with at least 25 estimated.

FRINGILLIDAE Himalayan Greenfinch (Yellow-breasted G) Carduelis spinoides: Just six this year at Sat Tal. Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus: Small numbers at scattered locations throughout. Pink-browed Rosefinch Carpodacus rodochroa: A stunning male, and five females in the Naini Tal

area. ESTRILDIDAE Red Avadavat Amandava amandava: Good numbers were regularly seen in lowland grassy areas

throughout; at least 120 in all. Indian Silverbill Euodice malabarica: Commonly recorded away from the more northerly locations,

and particularly at home in semi-desert. Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata: Four at Ramnagar. PASSERIDAE House Sparrow Passer domesticus: Common around human habitation. At Imlidihe we estimated a

total of 1,000. Cinnamon Sparrow (Russet S) Passer rutilans: About 100 of these brightly-marked sparrows were

seen in the Naini Tal area. Yellow-throated Sparrow (Chestnut-shouldered Petronia) Petronia xanthocollis: At least 100 at the

drier southern sites. PLOCEIDAE Black-breasted Weaver Ploceus benghalensis: One at the Ganges crossing, and 30 during our visit to

Bund Baretha. Streaked Weaver Ploceus manyar: Five on the way to Bund Baretha. Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus: Ten at the Ganges crossing, and 40 during our visit to Bund

Baretha. It is exceptional to see all three of these species on one tour, not to mention together in on place!

STURNIDAE Brahminy Starling Temenuchus pagodarum: Common during the latter part of the tour. Rosy Starling (Rose-coloured S) Sturnus roseus: 20 at the Banas River near Sawai Madhopur, and 30

at Imlidihe. Asian Pied Starling Gracupica contra: Commonly seen away from the more northern areas. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis: Common throughout. Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianus: Fairy common throughout, but more abundant than the last

species in the drier urban areas of the south. ORIOLIDAE Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus: Small numbers at Corbett NP. Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii: Great views of a female along the track from Dhikala to Kinanauli. DICRURIDAE Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus: Regularly seen throughout. Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus: Just one near Quality Inn.


White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens: Quite common in the Ranthambhore TR/Sawai Madhopur area.

Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus: At least 23 in the Corbett NP area. CORVIDAE Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius: Six along the road to Kunjakharak, near Naini Tal. The race here,

bispecularis, has an unmarked crown and lacks the white wing patch of European birds. Black-headed Jay (Lanceolated J) Garrulus lanceolatus: Small numbers this year, with 13 or so in the

Naini Tal area. The movements of this western Himalayan speciality are often dictated by the presence or absence of acorns.

Red-billed Blue Magpie (Blue M) Urocissa erythrorhyncha: Several sightings of this spectacular corvid in the Naini Tal area.

Common Green Magpie Cissa chinensis: Great views of one near Quality Inn. Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda: Regular throughout. Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae: Two at close range near Sat Tal, and two in the low fields near

Naini Tal. House Crow Corvus splendens: Common throughout. Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos: Good numbers at higher elevations around Naini Tal.

Crows at Sat Tal were probably also this species, which shows a more graduated raven-like tail than Indian Jungle.

Indian Jungle Crow Corvus culminatus: Common in lowland areas throughout. MAMMALS Indian Hare Lepus nigricollis: Four different sightings at drier southern sites. Northern Palm Squirrel Funambulus pennantii: Common, apart from the more northern areas. Indian Bush Rat Golunda ellioti: Two were found grubbing-around under bushes near Tiger Moon. House Rat (Black R) Rattus rattus: Two on the railway track at Sawai Madhopur station. Indian Crested Porcupine (Indian P) Hystrix indica: Wow, what at treat. We flushed one in daytime,

and then followed it through the grass at Keoladeo NP. It was huge! Tiger Panthera tigris: We were very fortunate to encounter a resting male (estimated to be four years

old) during our first jeep ride around the Dhikala grasslands at Corbett NP. If that was not enough, we went on to see three eight month old cubs playing and growling along Route 5 in Ranthambhore TR. Great stuff.

Indian Grey Mongoose (Common M) Herpestes edwardsii: One at Ramnagar and then two seen much better at Keoladeo NP.

Ruddy Mongoose Herpestes smithii: Three during our last jeep-ride at Ranthambhore. Fantastic views of this very distinctive Indian mongoose.

Golden Jackal (Jackal) Canis aureus: Regularly seen away from the mountains, and often very tame. Indian Wolf Canis pallipes: Although Tiger was mammal of the trip for some of us, for others, it was

the awesome site of a pack of five rare Indian Wolves, at point-blank range, during our visit to Imlidihe. Recent genetic analyses suggest that there are actually three species of Wolf in the Indian Subcontinent: Indian Wolf Canis pallipes, Himalayan Wolf Canis chanco, and Grey Wolf Canis lupus. The results indicate that there has been no mixing of Grey and Indian Wolves for more than 400,000 years, while Himalayan Wolf is of a more ancient lineage, having been separated from both Grey and Indian for more than 800,000 years. To put this into context, Polar Bear may have diverged from Brown Bear as little as 70,000 years ago. The Indian Wolf population is thought to be as low as 2,000-3,000 animals, while the Himalayan Wolf in India may number as few as 350 (their status is in Nepal and Tibet is unclear). The range of Indian Wolf extends west to the Arabian Peninsular.

Yellow-throated Marten Martes flavigula: Three rather brief sightings in the north.


Asian House Shrew (House S, Grey Musk S) Suncus murinus: One at Tiger Moon spent most of its time in John and Liz’s room, where it was apparently very keen on John’s dirty laundry!

Indian Flying Fox Pteropus giganteus: At least 60 were seen ‘hanging-out’ at Bund Baretha and at least 20 at Ranthambhore TR.

Northern Plains Grey Langur Semnopithecus entellus: This was the grey langur at Ranthambhore. Tarai Grey Langur (Terai G L) Semnopithecus hector: While this was the grey langur in the north. Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulatta: Common throughout, and often in close association with humans. Eurasian Wild Boar (Wild Boar, Indian W B) Sus scrofa: Widespread sightings in protected areas. Indian Muntjac (Barking Deer) Muntiacus muntjak: Regular sightings during the first half of the tour. Sambar Cervus unicolor: Common in the parks. The males were getting all hot-and-bothered at

Ranthambhore Chital (Spotted Deer) Cervus axis: Common in the parks. Hog Deer Cervus porcinus: Just one in the grassland at Dhikala. Indian Gazelle (Chinkara) Gazella bennettii: Singles of this neat little antelope at Ranthambhore and

Jhoomar Baori. Nilgai (Blue Bull) Boselaphus tragocamelus: Common during the second half of the tour. Common Goral (Goral) Nemorhaedus goral: Great scope views of one on the grassy slopes above

the low fields, near Naini Tal. Asian Elephant (Indian E) Elephas maximus: A very good tour for this species, with several groups

totalling up to 14-21 animals at Dhikala. We even saw two huge tuskers. REPTILES Mugger (Marsh Crocodile) Crocodylus palustris: Small numbers at Corbett NP and Ranthambhore TR. Gharial Gavialis gangeticus: Over twenty ‘long-snouts’ were seen very nicely at Corbett NP. Indian Mud Turtle (Flapshell) Lissemys punctata: At least three large specimens of this soft-shelled

turtle at Keoladeo NP and a couple more hauled-out at Ranthambhore. Common Garden Lizard Calotes versicolor: A single juvenile at Ramnagar barrage. Skink Mabuya sp.: One on the roadside bank on the way to Kaladhungi. It exhibited a bizarre

defence display which made us ‘jump’!

NORTHERN INDIA & THE HIMALAYAS

Documents