NEW AMPHIPHILIC COUPLING AGENTS FOR ...NEW AMPHIPHILIC COUPLING AGENTS FOR COSMETICS AND HOME CARE PRODUCTS: IPD and MMB ICPC, 2016 Symposium and Exhibition İzmir, Turkey Burçak

NEW AMPHIPHILIC COUPLING AGENTS FOR COSMETICS AND

HOME CARE PRODUCTS: IPD and MMB

ICPC, 2016 Symposium and Exhibition

İzmir, Turkey

Burçak Alioğlu

Agenda

Introduction of IPD 1

IPD Use As a Solvent/Dispersant; Moisturizer 2

3

4

Introduction of MMB

Safety of MMB

5 Study of MMB in a Multi Purpose Cleaner

IPD- Isopentyldiol

• Chemical Name: 3-Methyl-1,3-butanediol

• INCI Name: Isopentyldiol

• Isoprene Glycol

• Japan, Quasi-Drug

• North America and Japan, 1996

• REACH, 2013

• Solubilizer, Moisturizer and Coupling Agent

Agenda



3

4

Introduction of MMB

Safety of MMB


Good Solubilizer for Actives

* : clear after cooling to room temperature

IPD + Active (%)

Max. amount of water added to the blend IPD + Active, leading to transparent solution

Lipophilic actives

Glycyrrhetinic acid (2 %) 14,30 %

Salicylic acid (20 %) 4,00 %

Resveratrol (8 %) 3,90 %

Boswellia Serrata extract (20 %) 7,90 %

IPD + Active (%) Max. amount of Di-isopropyl sebacate (oil) added to the blend IPD + Active, leading to

transparent solution

Hydrophilic actives

Trimethylglycine (8 %) 6,30 %

Glabridin (6,5 %) 0,15 %

Good Carrier of Actives for Transparent Formulations

Wetting/Dispersing Ability of IPD

Temperature, pH, oxidation stable molecule Fully water soluble Miscible with some emollients in a ratio of 1:1 (adipates, sebacates, short chain triglycerides, short

chain ethers, cyclopentasiloxane) Good wetting properties of Fe02 : ratio 1/1 and with TiO2 : ratio 4/5 Better dispersion properties with silica powders (fumed and hydrated silica) than glycerin/sorbitol

% Silica IPD Sorbitol Glycerin

15% Colorless opalescent fluid

Colorless opalescent fluid, comparable to IPD

White fluid

10% Colorless opalescent fluid

Colorless opalescent fluid, slighlty more transparent than IPD

Ice-white fluid

5% Colorless transparent fluid

Ice-white opalescent fluid Colorless opalescent fluid, comparable to IPD

Stable Emulsions

- IPD reduces the particle size - Microscope analysis of an O/W emulsion with and without IPD

without IPD Large oil droplets

with IPD Finer emulsion

O/W emulsion with or without IPD* (qs water)

Water 73,50%

Hydrogenated Polydecene

20,00%

Steareth 2 3,00%

Steareth 21 1,00%

Cetearyl alcohol 1,50%

Preservative 1,00%

* : 5% incorporated in the water phase

Moisturizing Effect of IPD

Study protocol:

5 volunteers – application on forearm – average value after 10 measurements made with a corneometer

Study performed by IRFAQ, France

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

after 5 minutes after 60 minutes after 2 hoursG

ain

in h

ydra

tati

on

(%

)

without moisturising agent With 5% IPD

With 5% IPD + 5% sorbitol with 0.5% Na Hyaluronate

68

94 111

55

27 23

38

30 28

20

41 33

Test formula

Active 0 or x %

Carbomer 0.75%

Cetyl alcohol 1%

Glyceryl stearate/PEG 100

stearate

3%

Paraffinum liquidum 3%

Triethanolamine 0.6%

Preservative 0.7%

Deionised water qs 100%

IPD, multi functional ingredient for cosmetics Skin care

Hair care

Body care

Baby care

Colour cosmetics

Cleansers

Toiletries

Self tanning

Make-up removers

Agenda



3

4

Introduction of MMB

Safety of MMB


MMB

• Chemical Name: 3-Methoxy-3-Methyl-1-Butanol

• INCI Name: Methoxymethylbutanol

• Clear Liquid

• Fully water soluble

• With some affinity with lipophilic components

• Good wetting (HLB : 7.8)

• Hydrotrope* and degreasing agent

• Asia, 1986

* : A hydrotrope is a compound that solubilises hydrophobic compounds in aqueous solutions.

Agenda



3

4

Introduction of MMB

Safety of MMB


MMB meets safety expectations

Safe

Gentle to users

Environmentally friendly

MMB

Good safety data

Registered at REACH

Listed at CTFA*

INCI name : Methoxymethylbutanol

Good biodegradability

Good ecotoxicity figures

Approved by US EPA* as DFE* solvent

Listed in cleangredients list in 2009

* : CTFA : Cosmetic Toiletries and Fragrance Association EPA : Environmental Protection Agency DFE : Design for the Environment

Agenda



3

4

Introduction of MMB

Safety of MMB


MMB meets market expectations

Quick & Efficient

• Expect a fast & efficient cleaning

• Tested by a Technological Center

• Objective of the test : To compare cleaning efficiency & quickness of APC formulations containing different hydrotropes with market reference as a benchmark

• Test : IKW Performance test for APC http://www.ikw.org/fileadmin/content/downloads/Haushaltspflege/HP_EQ-Allzweck-englisch.pdf

Equipment used for this study

A multi-track scrub tester with cloth holder (ref. Sheen 903 PG).

White floor tile

Visible fat-powder soil:

• 75% peanut oil

• 23% Kaolin

• 2% Special Black

Test

Benchmark

Benchmark

Tested Formulation

Tested Formulation

5 ml of :

Benchmark = KH7 Leading product in Spanish market

Stop the machine when there is a difference between Benchmark and the tested formulation

Test

Hydrotopes compared in the formulations

Hydrotropes Conc. in formulation

Ethanol (ET) 4,0 %

Butylglycol (BG) 2,3 %

Butyldiglycol (BDG) 2,1 %

Methoxy propanol (MP) 2,2 %

MethoxyMethylButanol (MMB) 1,0 %

% Different % in order to Keep same formulation cost =

=

€

% ACT. conc ET_4 MMB_1 BG_2 BDG_2 MP_2

Petresul 550 anionic 100 9 9 9 9 9

Dehydol LT7 non ionic 100 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5

Palmistic fatty acid 100 1 1 1 1 1

EmulanHE50 emulsifier 100 2 2 2 2 2

Sodium Carbonate 100 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5

NaOH 50 Adj pH Adj pH Adj pH Adj pH Adj pH

Ethanol 96 4 0 0 0 0

MMB 100 0 1,03 0 0 0

Butylglycol 100 0 0 2,29 0 0

Butyldiglycol 100 0 0 0 2,13 0

1-methoxy-2-propanol 100 0 0 0 0 2,17

Acticide preservative 1,5 0,0023 0,0023 0,0023 0,0023 0,0023

Water 100 80,60 82,47 82,71 82,86 82,83

Formulations tested

pH ≈ 11.00

KH7 ET_4 KH7 ET_4

Tests – Results (ETHANOL 4% vs KH7)

Composition

KH7 5 – 15% non ionic surfactants, <5% anionic surfactants

ET_4 1.5% non ionic surfactant, 9% anionic surfactant, 1% soap, 4% Ethanol

KH7

ET_4

KH7 BG_2 KH7 BG_2

Tests – Results (BUTYLGLYCOL 2,3% vs KH7)

Composition


BG_2 1.5% non ionic surfactant, 9% anionic surfactant, 1% soap, 2.29% butylglycol

KH7

BG_2

KH7 BDG_2 KH7 BDG_2

Tests – Results (BUTYLDIGLYCOL 2,1% vs KH7)

Composition


BDG_2 1.5% non ionic surfactant, 9% anionic surfactant, 1% soap,2.13% butyldiglycol

KH7

BDG_2

KH7 MP_2 KH7 MP_2

Tests – Results (METHOXYPROPANOL 2,2% vs KH7)

Composition


MP_2 1.5% non ionic surfactant, 9% anionic surfactant, 1% soap, 2.17% methoxypropanol

KH7

MP_2

Tests – Results (MMB 1 % vs KH7)

Composition


MMB_1 1.5% non ionic surfactant, 9% anionic surfactant, 1% soap, 1.03% MMB

MMB_1 ≈ KH7

MMB_1 KH7 MMB_1 KH7

MMB_1 MMB_4 MMB_1 MMB_4

Tests – Results (MMB 1 % vs MMB 4 %)

Composition

MMB_1 1.5% non ionic surfactant, 9% anionic surfactant, 1% soap, 1% MMB

MMB_4 1.5% non ionic surfactant, 9% anionic surfactant, 1% soap, 4% MMB

MMB_1 MMB_4

MMB_1 ≈ MMB_4

€

Quick & Efficient formulations with MMB

• Better efficiency : MMB performs better than other hydrotropes tested at same formulation cost

• Faster : Formulation including MMB works faster than the one’s incl. other hydrotropes

MP 2,2 %

BDG 2,3 %

BG 2,3 %

ET 4 %

MMB 1 %

MMB can help to formulate products that will meet market expectations

Quick & Efficient

• Expect a fast & efficient cleaning

MMB

Safe

Gentle to users

Environmentally

friendly

MMB

Thank You

NEW AMPHIPHILIC COUPLING AGENTS FOR ...NEW AMPHIPHILIC COUPLING AGENTS FOR COSMETICS AND HOME CARE PRODUCTS: IPD and MMB ICPC, 2016 Symposium and Exhibition İzmir, Turkey Burçak

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