- 1. April/May 2012 Travel Light, Travel Far 10 sertDe ps! Wild
Africa Remote jungles, canyons Tri um,adi R acama W At and bizarre
stone forests ra, Saha more...and Sri Lanka Serendipity on the Isle
of Serendib Tanzania Africas Big Five in photos Mongolia Living it
up in a yurtp60Uruguay Colonial towns, dramatic beaches and gaucho
culture our 10-page guide to the Pearl of South America+ Kyrgyzstan
| Leatherback Trail in Gabon | Gorillas of Uganda
2. April/May 2012Travel Light, Travel Far10ert Desps!Wild
AfricaRemote jungles, canyonsTri New Journey, New Life.i Rum,Wad
Atacamaand bizarre stone forestsra,Saha more... andSri Lanka Since
the launch of our magazine, we have received a tremendous amount of
positive feedback fromSerendipity on the Isle of Serendibreaders
and friends in the travel industry. Our first issue alone has
received over two million views!Tanzania We cannot thank you enough
for your support - without you, we wouldnt be doing what we
loveAfricas Big Five in photosMongolia most. Stick around, weve got
plenty more to share in upcoming issues.Living it up in a
yurtUruguayMeanwhile, weve worked hard to compile this second issue
while on the road. Were now in theColonial towns, dramatic beaches
and gaucho cultureour 10-page guide to the Pearl of South
AmericaPhilippines, a month into our journey around Asia. Although
traveling and working on the magazine + Kyrgyzstan | Leatherback
Trail in Gabon | Gorillas of Uganda at the same time has been quite
a challenge, we are loving this new location-independent lifestyle:
our On the Cover African Sunset new office is a bamboo hut on the
beach, with the lapping waves and gentle (Galyna Andrushko -
fotolia)breeze as our background soundtrack. WildJunket Magazine is
aYoull be seeing alot more on Asia in the upcoming issues, but in
this bi-monthly digital travel magazineedition, our focus is on
Africa - with a cover feature from our recent trip to with a focus
on outdoor adventuresMadagascar (p20), a photo essay of wildlife in
Tanzania (p60), a story on and sustainable travel. Our mission
gorilla tracking in Uganda (p80) and dispatches from Gabon (p40).
is to inspire readers to travel light and travel far. Weve also
giving away free subscriptions to Inca Rally participants as well
as a one-week car rental to a lucky reader (details on p89).
Creative Director Alberto Molero Editor-in-Chief Nellie HuangAs
always, we want to interact and socialize with you, our readers. If
you have Contributing Editor Candace Rardonphotos, comments or tips
to share, get in touch - wed love to hear from you! Gear Editor
Lenore Greiner Editorial Intern Allison CarltonNellie Huang GET IN
TOUCH Editor-in-Chief & PublisherContributors Enquiries
[email protected] Editorial [email protected] Advertising
[email protected] Interested in contributing? Refer to our
website for details. Web www.wildjunket.com WildJunket Ltd, 2012.
Published by WildJunket Ltd, 163 Jalan Loyang Besar, Singapore
503413. All rights are reserved. Reproduction in any matter is
strictly prohibited without the approval of the publishers. The
views expressed in articles are those of the writers, and not
necessarily of the publishers.Anya OskolkovaPeter West CareyAllison
CarltonBorn and raised in Russia, Anya Peter West Carey is a
professionalOur editorial intern, Allison Carlton is aOskolkova
took her first trip abroad at photographer currently leading
photoprofessional journalist with a passion forthe age of 7 and has
been wandering tours to Bhutan, Nepal and India. adventure travel.
She currently works asthe world since. She shares her stories He
also hosts photography workshops Assistant Editor at True West
Magazine,on The Compulsive Travelers blog.in the USA. Read about
him on the and blogs at the Traveling Bard. ForIn our Travel Guide
section, she writes Carey Adventures. See his photo essay each
issue, she writes the Calendar (p58) about Uruguay (p98).of
wildlife in Tanzania on p60. and Trip Ideas (p16) pieces. Summer
Special! Philippines ColombiaFor all your Madagascar travel
arrangements. A small hands-on company based in Madagascar; 20+
Cook Islandsyears experience specializing in custom tailored
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TurkeyUnique alternatives to standard package tours with
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GeorgiaSherry OttLenore GreinerAndrea Wren Multi-Activity Programs
Avenue of the Baobabs Filming & Research support Sherry Ott is
a refugee from corporateLenore Greiner is WildJunkets in-Andrea
Wren is an experienced Extensive Island Tours Tsiribihina,
Manambolo & HoneymoonsMoroccoIT who is now a traveler,
blogger,and photographer.Shes co-founderhouse travel gear editor
(p114). Sheblogs at TravelGearForWomen,freelance journalist, travel
writer andblogger based in the UK. She writes Tsingy de Bemaraha
Mangoky Rivers Student GAP programs10 Diving TripsofMeet, Plan,
Go!, a national eventoffering career break inspiration.Shehelping
women travel brilliantly. Shealso writes for Delta Airlines Sky,
Sanfor the Guardian, Wanderlust, andThe Independent. Andrea blogs
atalso runs the travel blog Ottsworld.Francisco Chronicle, and
HealingButterflyist. In this issue, she brings us+(261) 2095 523 47
+(261) 3247 326 [email protected] www.remoterivers.com On
sale 14 May 2012 See her photos of Sri Lanka on p48. Retreats and
Spas.to Uganda (p80). 3. From the RoadRegulars Insider 32 | Under
the Radar: Kyrgyzstan 06 | Snapshots Feast on impressive photos
from our 58 | Calendar A look at festivals and events happening A
country blessed with dramatic landscapes, untouchedreaders around
the world.around the world this Apr/May. nature and some of the
most hospitable people in the world.16 | Trip Ideas Ten ideas for
desert trips - from the Sahara 110 | Stay Jordans stylish hot
spring resort reinvents the 40 | Dispatches: Gabon to the Namib
Desert. Middle Eastern bath experience. Witness the rare phenomenon
of leatherback turtles nesting 112 | Travel Rant How much do
stereotypes speak the114 | Gear We recommend a list of travel gear
and on tthe West African coast.truth? Mike Sowden muses, and rants,
about busting electronics perfect for hiking this spring. 72 | Just
Back: Inner Mongolia prejudices. Live like nomads in Chinas secret
province, Inner Mongolia. 113 | Travel Thoughts Our columnist
Candace RardonWIN 90 | Feast: South Koreaponders about the concept
of authentic travel. We conquer an army of street foods in Seoul to
hunt down 116 | Sketches Darbur Square, Kathmandu, in watercolors.
! the best - and the most exotic. aOne-W Caree SeeRent k pag ale89
Inner Mongolia, China p72 80 Uganda Seoul, South Korea
p90Destination Features18 | MadagascarExplore the remote jungles,
canyons andbizarre stone forests of the Great Red Island.Kyrgyzstan
p3248 | Sri LankaAfter decades of civil war, we head back to 98
Uruguayfind renewed peace on the isle of Serendib.Tanzania p6060 |
TanzaniaA photo essay of Africas Big Five on the 48 Sri
Lankasavannahs of Serengeti.80 | UgandaHead into the wilderness of
Uganda andcome face to face with the famous gorillas.98 | Travel
Guide: UruguayWander through the colonial towns,windwept beaches
and Gaucho landswith our comprehensive travel guide onUruguay.
Madagascar18 4. Lemaire Channel, Antarctica Imagine being the only
person for thousands of miles. No lights, no noise, no airplanes,
no wifi. Just you, your travel mates and several thousand penguins.
After sailing down the Antarctic Peninsula, heading into the
Lemaire Channel, it became apparent just how small we are in this
vast world. The Lemaire Channel is also known as The KodakGap
because of the stunning mountains, glaciers, and bright blue
icebergssurrounding the narrow passageway its almost impossible to
take a bad photo.What made this morning particularly special though
was how crystalclear it was outside (the mountain tops are usually
veiled in clouds).- Meghan PalmerSend us your photos and the
stories behind them to [email protected] | WildJunket
April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 7 5. Sacred Valley, Peru It was
my first time in South America, and this visit to the Sacred Valley
was one of the most defining moments of the trip. The Sacred Valley
lies within the Andean mountain range, thousands of feet above sea
level. It was easy to see just how skillful and disciplined the
Incas were: agricultural terraces were etched so perfectly in the
hills that they can still be used hundreds of years later.
Buildings that were constructed with stones painstakingly dragged
over long distances from neighbouring mountains, still stand, long
after the hands that laid them had gone. - Alphis Tay8 | WildJunket
April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 9 6. Kalahari, South Africa
Near South Africas northern border with Namibia is an amazing
research center for meerkats. Literally dozens of clans of meerkats
live here as part of an Earthwatch volunteer project. This is where
the hit series Meerkat Manor was filmed; a soap opera documentary
that followed the lives of a meerkat clan over the course of three
seasons and two movies. I was fortunate enough to join an
Earthwatch volunteer team last year and spend a few weeks with
these charming little creatures. Needless to say, the overall
docile nature of these animals gave me ample opportunity to take
plenty of beautiful photographs. This is one of my favorites and
shows three meerkats in a typically vigilant stance. Dale is a
multi-award winning photographer based in South Africa. To see more
of his pictures visitwww.geckoeye.com - Dale Morris10 | WildJunket
April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 11 7. Grand Canyon, Arizona The
moment I arrived at the GrandCanyon National Park in Arizona, I was
immediately taken back by this stunning geological display. My fear
of heights was quickly overcome by a sense of amazement as I found
myself surrounded by billions of years of history, compressed into
giant gorges. Just before the park guides gestured for me to step
away from the edge of the canyon, I snapped this picture of the
Colorado River below, still bewildered at the powerful wonderful of
Mother Nature. - Tracy Zhang12 | WildJunket April/May 2012
www.wildjunket.com | 13 8. Negev Desert, Israel Israel was one of
the most surprising countries for me as a world traveler. Not only
does the country offer unparalleled history and culture, it also
features dramatic landscape, particularly attractive for
desert-lovers like myself. In December 2007, on our way from Masada
to the Red Sea (Eilat), we had the chance to drive through parts of
the extensive Negev Desert. By sunset, we stopped at the north
entrance of the Ramon Nature Reserve to visit the famous Makhtesh
Ramon. Even though it looks like a meteor crater, it is actually a
geological formation unique to the Negev desert. Unfortunately, we
could only stay for an hour or so, but it was enough to fall in
love with the view and its magnificent surrounding. Taking this
picture was an easy task, I just had to click and nature did the
rest!. - Mirella Matthiesen14 | WildJunket April/May
2012www.wildjunket.com | 15 9. Trip Ideas10 Desert Experiences54WD
Adventures in the Outback, Australia 7Learn the history behind
thedesert, Egypt 1Trek through the Valley ofthe Moon, Chile Get a
balance of the desert and sea on this6Celebrate the Festival of the
Desert, Mali Experience one of the most extraordinaryGo back in
time with the Nile Valley and For adventurists, the Atacama Desert
four-day Monkey Mia, Kalbarri and Pinnaclesannual music events with
this Festival of the Western Desert tour offered by World 7 Day
Trek offered by Cascadatrip offered by Adventure Tours that takes
Desert tour offered by Kumuka. The journeyExpeditions. Visit the
legendary Giza Expediciones offers the unique chanceyou from the
coast to the desert of Westernbrings you through three countries:
Ghana,Pyramids, along with the Roman hot springs to trek and
explore the unworldlyAustralia. Go sand boarding in Nambung Burkina
Faso and Mali. Explore West Af- and stop at ancient temples and
tombs that landscapes of Atacama Desert. Fromricas largest market,
sail the Niger River andNational Park, where youll wander through
once belonged to the ancient pharaohs while sunsets to sunrises,
youll get to seestay with the Tuareg people after a camelthe
mysterious Pinnacle Desert, before cruising the majestic Nile River
to Cairo. the beauty of the desert while trekking ride through the
Sahara. The tours main through impressive rock formations
ofabseiling down Murchison Gorge in Kalbarri highlight is the
three-day Festival of theThe highlight of the tour is the desert:
get the Cordillera de la Sal, up the cacti-NP. Then trade the sand
for surf at Shark Bay andDesert that includes art expos, camel
rides lost amidst the bizarre limestone formations studded slopes
of Licancabur Volcano,swim with the famous local dolphins of
Monkeyand games. Note: there is a current travelof White Desert,
climb the rose-red cliffs in while visiting historical places like
theMia. This trip truly gives you a diverse experiencewarning
against Northern Mali; check FCODakhla Oasis and marvel at the
green island of Fortress of Quitor and indigenousalong WAs Coral
Coast.for current safety advice.Kharga Oasis in the ocean of sand.
villages.Tour operator: Adventure Tours Tour operator: Kumuka Tour
operator: World Expeditions Tour operator: Cascada Departures:twice
a week year-roundDepartures: January Departures: September 2012 to
April 2013 Departures: year-round Duration:4 days Duration: 20 days
Duration: 14 days Duration: 7 days Cost: US$685 (exc. flights)Cost:
US$4,290.00 (exc. flights)Cost: from US$2,290 Cost: from US$2,190
(exc. flights)2 Wander through the worldsoldest desert, Namibia
4Camp in yurts in Gobis Desert,Mongolia8 Stargaze in the
Sahara,Morocco10Live like a Bedouin, JordanWildlife and nature are
the main attractions3 Desert romance in the Thar,IndiaOn this
TransIndus private tour, youll have Dive deep into the heart of
Mongolia on thisThe Moroccan Sahara Escape tour offered by9From the
desert to the coast, OmanUndiscovered Destinations From the
DesertThe Lawrence of Arabias Adventures touron this Dunes, Deltas
and Falls tour offeredthe opportunity to truly develop a
personalDiscover the Gobi Desert trip with On The GoSpecialist
Morocco takes you on an excitingto the Coast tour is a short
seven-day trip organized by Explore is an action-packedby G
Adventures. This 21-day camping trip connection with the desert as
you spendTours. This one-of-a-kind tour allows you tojourney on a
4x4 deep into the mysticalpacked full of local culture and history.
Admirejourney thats excellent for families andstarts from
Livingstone, Zambia, bringing two weeks traversing through the
Tharexperience the Gobi Desert, the second largest the architecture
in the capital city of Muscatadventurous couples. Youll get to
explore Sahara Desert.Visit the UNESCO Worldyou through Botswana
and Namibia to Cape desert in the world - through camel rides,
train the legendary highlights of Jordan includingin Rajasthan,
India. The Desert RomanceHeritage site Ksar of
Ait-Ben-Haddou,before heading through the desert to meet theTown,
South Africa. Not only will you see thejourneys and history
lessons. By incorporating the lost city of Petra, Keraks Crusader
castleitinerary leads you on camel safaris through before heading
into the desert on camelbackgreen turtles in the sanctuary Ras al
Hadd.Big Five from an overland truck, youll get to visits to the
Natural History Museum, Gandan and the Dead Sea. Follow the
footsteps ofthe sand dunes of Osian, jeep tours around monastery
and Migjid Janraisag temple, youllDrive through the red and white
dunes ofpaddle through the Okavango Delta, wonderand sleeping under
the stars by night. YoullLawrence of Arabia, camping under theRawla
Narlai, boat rides on the Chambaihave a well-rounded tour of the
Gobi in just Wahiba Sands before visiting the 17th centuryat the
magnitude of Victoria Falls, and most also head up to the Atlas
mountains to stars in the Wadi Rum desert and learningRiver as well
as visits to desert towns, Jaineight days. Highlights of the trip
include Jabrin Castle and the Jebel Akdhar fort. Theimportantly,
catch sunrise on the rose-red hike in the Toubkal National Park
before about traditional life from local Bedouins.temples and
havelis - all these in the comfort yurt camping, visits to the
flaming cliffs oftrip culminates with a hike in Jebel Shams,
thesand dunes and visit the eerie Dead Vlei in thespending a night
in a Berber village.Finally cool off from the heat in the clearof
heritage hotels and historical mansions.Bayanzag and climbing the
dunes of Moltsog Grand Canyon of Oman.worlds oldest desert.blue
waters and coral reefs of the Red Sea.Tour operator:
TransindusEls.Tour operator: Specialist MoroccoTour operator: G
Adventures Tour operator: Undiscovered DestinationsTour operator:
ExploreDepartures: mid-October to mid-March Tour operator: On The
Go ToursDepartures: from September to JuneDepartures:
year-roundDepartures: March and October Departures: monthly
year-roundDuration: 16 daysDepartures: year-roundDuration: 5
daysDuration: 21 days Duration: 7 daysDuration: 9 days Duration: 8
daysCost: from US$639 (exc. flights)Cost: from US$5,550 (inc.
flights from UK)Cost: US$1,780 (exc. flights) Cost: US$1,180 (exc.
flights)Cost: from US$2,199 (exc. flights) Cost:from US$$5,468
(exc. flights)16 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com |
17 10. The Lost IslandFrom endemic wildlife to bizarre stone
forests and unexploredbeaches, remote Madagascar may just be one of
Africas lastgreat unknowns.Words Nellie Huang | Photographs Alberto
Molero18 | WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 19 11.
DESTINATION MADAGASCARI t was a tail. A very long, white jungle and
also the main draw for theof lemurs, and 6,000 different kinds of
and bushy tail. It swung back andfew intrepid travelers who make
theirendemic plants, including the bizarre forth in our direction,
combingway to this remote isle each year. spiny ocotillo tree and
the bottle- the breeze for our presence as weMost people come to
Madagascar shaped baobab. slowly approached. Bending our to get a
first-hand look at its uniqueSlightly bigger than California,backs
and straining our eyes againstwildlife, with the lemur as the
headline Madagascar is the fourth largest islandthe sunlight, we
watched as the ape-act. But as my photographer husbandin the world.
Stretching out overlike animal leapt from tree to tree and I
traversed through Madagascar 3,100 miles (5,000 km) of
untouchedtowards us. 30 feet, 15 feet, five feet. from
lemur-stalked Kirindy to thecoastline, it features extremely
diverse It was in full view now all of its stone pinnacles Tsingy
de Bemaraha,terrains and habitats: from thewhite furry body, long
monkey limbs,and then on to the laid back beach dramatic mountains
of the north towebbed feet and olive green eyes. Justtown of
Morondava it was quickly pristine spearmint-blue beaches in
theinches before us the creature curiously apparent theres far more
to see in this south; from green humid rainforests insniffed us
out, with not the least bit of largely unexplored part of Africa.
the east to the spiny forests of the west.apprehension. Sadly,
Madagascars age of innocence A lemur. To be precise, a Verreauxs
Biodiversity Hotspot might be short-lived. With problemssifaka,
which is also known asMarooned in the vast Indian Ocean, like civil
unrest, corruption and over-a dancing lemur for its comical la
Grand le is home to an uncommonexploitation of resources
plaguinglocomotion on the ground. Thisgroup of animals and plants
foundthe country, the United Nationsprimate is one of the most
popularnowhere else in the world. Most of Environment Programme
(UNEP) haslemurs and definitely the weirdest. these have evolved
after the islandsdeclared Madagascars ecosystem one Wild Spirit:
Just 15 minutes into the Kirindy separation from the African
continentof the most threatened in the world.A furry white
VerrauxForest Reserve and wed seen our165 million years ago. Only
in Lemurs are facing extinction as someSifaka scrambles up a
treefirst lemur. Here on the island ofMadagascar can you find the
worldstribes in Madagascar continue to huntOpposite: The terrain
inMadagascar, lemurs are the stars of the biggest chameleons, over
70 speciesthem for bush meat while patches of Southern Madagascar20
| WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 21 12. DESTINATION
MADAGASCARDESTINATION MADAGASCARTsingy de Bemaraha: Our local
parkranger crossing the bridge that spans across the rock
pinnacles. less-trodden path.bathing themselves in the brackish
national park is protected by ANGAP,Resembling scenes out of a
sci-fi movie, the stoneAt the end of the tormenting ride we arrived
at the Tsiribihina River, a water, women dressed in colorful lambas
crossing the river on theirwhich had a series of wire railings
putin place by a team of climbers andforest features jagged
limestone pinnacles and major waterway that winds westwards through
Madagascar, flowing over a pirogues (dugout canoes). By the time we
got to the Bemaraha Mountains,researchers. Guided by a local park
ranger, weneedle-sharp peaks, some reaching up to 600 feet.
distance of 91 miles (146 km) into the Mozambique Channel. We
waited for the last ebb of the sun had faded in the distance, and
wispy clouds hung lowclambered up the steel tracks andscrambled
from one razor-sharp peak our turn to hop on the car ferry by the
above our heads. We were moving at a to another, balancing our way
in a less- crowded river banks.slow pace in Madagascar, but for
once, than-fancy fashion. Its no wonder thewild forests on the
island are slowlyNow that the island is slowly and rum-colored
rivers. Villages andMora mora, advised our guidewe didnt
mind.Malagasies had aptly named the stonedisappearing due to
illegal logging.regaining political stability, there is no people
were few and far between. As Heri. Slowly, slowly. In
Madagascar,forest tsingy, meaning tip-toe.On the bright side, all
is not lost better time to return to the Great Red tarmac gave way
to bare earth, it was things move slowly. You never knowSpiky Peaks
The trail brought us up steepseveral wildlife conservation
groupsIsland.obvious we were seeping deeper into how long we need
to wait. It can be The journey was well worth it: our limestone
faces, through narrowsuch as World Wide Fund for Nature rural
Africa. an hour or a whole day. So be patient,destination, the
Tsingy de Bemaraha, winding canyons and sliding down(WWF) are
working with Madagascars The Wild West Getting to Bemaraha was an
just smile and wait. Our stout, fitwas nothing quite like anything
Idslick curves. As I scaled higher towardsANGAP (National
Association for the The next morning at the crack of experience of
its own. We plunged and and knowledgable guide always had seen.
Resembling scenes out of a sci-fithe highest point of the tsingy, I
lookedManagement of Protected Areas) to dawn, we made our way to
the remotelurched for 60 miles (100 km) overwise words to share he
gave us amovie, the stone forest features jaggeddown and my head
swirled in 360promote awareness and implement region of the
Bemaraha Mountains.four hours on a treacherously bumpy deep glimpse
into Madagascar and itslimestone pinnacles and needle-sharp
degrees. Luckily for the safety harnessmeasures. Locals are
gradually coming They dont call this the wild west for trail
flanked by thick, dense foliage.culture.peaks, some reaching up to
600 feetand the guides encouragement, Ito grips with the reality
that theirnothing. With few roads connecting Overland travel in
Madagascar can beWe spent the afternoon watching (200 meters) in
height - a result of made it up to the peak, giddy withwealth is in
their wildlife and natural here to the rest of the country,
thisbrutal, especially on this part of thevillagers go about their
daily livesmillions of years of rainwater
lashesexcitement.environment. Tourism is an integral hard-to-reach
region is pockmarked island - but somehow the remoteness - men
leading theirs herds of zebus and trickling of streams. Now a Below
us was a blinding jumble -part to rebuilding the country. with
robust baobab trees, red earthand inaccessibility made this feel
like a (ox) along the marshy banks, children UNESCO World Heritage
Site, thethe chiseled karst stones poked out22 | WildJunket
April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 23 13. Sunrise at Manambolo:
LocalsOnly in Madagascar can you find the worlds biggest
chameleons, overglide by on a pirogue.Bottom (left to right):
Thousand-70 species of lemurs, and 6,000 different kinds of endemic
plants.year-old trees along the Avenuedu Baobab; Scrambling down
the jagged pinnacles of the tsingy.into the skies, vying for
sunlight withvertiginous cliffs of limestone toppedthe tsingy lay
vast, sandy plainspachypodium cacti; lemurs leapt from with karst
rock pinnacles and trees. Allpunctuated with tall bottle-shapedone
pointed needle to another; while was still except for the dancing
lightbaobab trees whose branches soaredthe orange-brown Manambolo
River on the water and an odd wheezingsky-high, resembling roots in
the air.snaked through lush emerald forestssound among the
overhanging foliage.Heri insisted we catch the sunset alongin the
distance. It was a vision of aIt could have been a snake or a
lemur,Avenue du Baobab, the islands mostprimeval paradise. Most of
all, we had but we glided into safety before thefamous road lined
with hundred-year-it all to ourselves. creature revealed itself.
old baobabs. I, on the other hand, was At 5.30a.m. the next day, we
arrived By the time we weaved our wayunsure if I wanted to share
the rareat the riverbank to see bats flittingmidway into the gorge,
the sun hadsolitude Id found in Madagascar withabout in the
pre-dawn haze. The riverfired up the canyon, splashing itsother
tourists.would give us a different perspective of rays beyond the
canopy of pinnacles. But as soon as we stood in thethe tsingy, Heri
said. Why at this hour, I smiled at Heri, thankful for this shadow
of the serendipitously alignedI protested. Youll soon find out.
spectacular sight - rising early sure was row of baobabs, I fell
silent in awe. We hopped onto our pirogue, worth it. Heri was right
again this wasa water taxi of some sort in the something. Even in
the light of day, theTsiribihina region. As we glided Baobab Nation
dirt road had an ethereal atmospheresilently into the Manambolo
Gorge, Back out on the muddy road, it wasto it, especially so with
the treesthe sandy riverbanks gave way to talla different world
again. Beyond silhouettes reflected in the water lily15 Other
wildlifewatching spotsRserve Spciale de Lankrana Located in
northern Madagascar, this 45,109 acre(18,225 hectare) reserve is a
patchwork of ruby-red tsingy,semi-dry forests, caves and
subterranean rivers. Its anexcellent place to spot nocturnal
sportive lemurs dont besurprised to find them popping their heads
out of holes inthe forest.2 Parc National dAndasibe-Mantadia This
high-altitude rainforest on the islands east coast isthe best place
to see the Indri, the largest lemur species. Youll 4 Parc Nacional
de Ranomafana As one of Madagascars most popular parks, Ranomafana
is most famous for its green, lusciousalso find eight other species
of lemur including the rare grey environment. In the 98,842 acre
(40,000 hectare) misty cloudbamboo lemur, as well as Parsons
chameleons, Madagascar forest, youll have the chance to see two
rare lemur speciesblue pigeons and long-eared owls. Listen out for
the weird the golden bamboo lemur and the greater bamboo lemur
-howling of the Indri in the early morning. who make their home
amidst waterfalls and rolling hills.3 La Rserve Prive dAnjajavy
Accessible only by air on the remote northwesterncoast, Anjajavy
promises the most prolific collection of 5 Anja ReserveAnja Reserve
is the most visited community managed forest and is famed for its
dense population of ring-tailedwildlife from chameleons to the
Coquerels sifaka and thelemurs. Situated 8 miles (13 km) south of
Ambalavao, theelusive Fossa. Cut off from the rest of the isle,
this reserve isreserve is easily accessible via the National Route
7. Thetruly untouched and well worth the journey.reserve entrance
fees go to the local Malagasy community.24 | WildJunket April/May
2012www.wildjunket.com | 25 14. DESTINATION MADAGASCAR DESTINATION
MADAGASCAR When asked why Madagascar of all places, he pointed out
to the viewExplore OffbeatVillage Life - Manafiafy Southern
Madagascar is sprinkled with ahead of us and said, Look at this,
how can you not fall in love? secluded offshore islets and steeped
inMadagascar tribal traditions. Go whale watching, deep sea fishing
or visit a castaway ponds beneath and locals trotting past on their
zebu carts. melodious series of Tonga Soa. Welcome. We threw off
our backpacks, Baholy. When asked why Madagascar of all places, he
pointed out to the viewSandstone Canyons of Isalo island and wander
through local At sunset, the dramatic scene tookleft our hiking
boots behind andahead of us and said, Look at this,Without the
ring-tailed lemurs youd villages. Theres also a whole world of on
even more theatrical dimensions: headed straight for the waves.how
can you not fall in love?never guess this is Madagascar. Theforest
reserves and mangroves excellent as the giant orange yolk sank over
the Overlooking the Mozambique Over the next few days we
kickedbrown sandstone gorges of Isalo National for nocturnal lemur
and bird-watching.canopy of baobabs, the color of the sky Channel,
Morondava bakes in a strongback and enjoyed a different side toPark
resemble those of the Grand CanyonExperience all of it at the
exclusive shimmered and dazzled - changingCaribbean light and its
people groove Madagascar. A sunset pirogue rideand they promise
superb hiking with aManafiafy Beach and Rainforestto a similar
tune. Its wide sandy beach in the nearby mangroves yielded from
bright vermillion to gentlerange of trails that vary in difficulty.
Two Lodge where you can explore the runs for miles alongside a
strip of impressive bird watching opportunities area with a
naturalist, relax in your mandarin, and eventually a shade
ofboutique lodges near Ranohira provideclapboard houses and beach
bars.from the blue-throated kingfishers tofirst-world comforts and
cuisine: Relais Baobab Galore in Ifatyluxurious thatched bungalow
and enjoy gold. The fascinating transformation Just 164 miles (265
km) from Isalo is from day to night took place in a sheer On the
dark blue waters, fishermenegrets and herons; we made friendsde la
Reine and Jardin du Roy. Botha true Robinson Crusoe experience. the
beach town of Ifaty, famed for itscast nets against the backdrop of
with local fishermen on the nearby isleboast European lodge dcor
and a lavish(Prices start from US$318 per personmatter of minutes
and yet, it stayed baobab reserves more than the beach.per night).
coconut palms swaying their frondsof Betania and watched them
catchteak wood setting.(Room rates fromdeeply imprinted in my
memories.US$105 per night) The coast is excellent for snorkeling
like Rastafari dreads. By the white giant tilapias; and on a chirpy
Saturday, and diving, especially for sharks. Butshoreline, local
women sashay in theirwe wandered through the colorful the nearby
Renialia Nature ReserveBeach Bumming colorful lambas with buckets
of fresh local market and chatted with friendly is the main
attraction - with its Through the dusty dirt roads of the fish on
their heads.locals. 1,200-year-old baobabs, bizarre spiny west, we
reached the breezy windsIts a view that many would kill toIt was
beautiful, but like everywhere forests and resident spiders,
scorpions and laid back vibes of Morondava. have as their daily
backdrop, and Garyelse in Madagascar, it was the solitude and
hedgehogs. To kick back, the lavish After days of hiking, kayaking
and waterfront bungalows at Le Paradisier Lemmer is one of the
lucky few to callthat struck me most. While the forest-trekking, we
felt in need of this home. Having lived and worked in improved
political situation might see promise tranquility, comfort and an
atmospheric backdrop. (Room rates some relaxation and found it at
the several parts of Africa, Gary decided an increase in travelers,
until then, this from US$86 per night).beachside lodge, Chez
Maggie. to settle in Madagascarand now runswildly remote island
remains hidden Upon arrival, we were met by aChez Maggie with his
Malagasy wife, and lost in its own world. 126 | WildJunket
April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 27 15. DESTINATION MADAGASCAR
(3-hour journey; return airfares fromTRIP DETAILS US$900). The
total journey times areThe author traveled with Remote Riveraround
20 hours from North America andExpeditions Madagascar on a
tailor-total return airfare starts from US$2,000.made trip. The
six-day trip departs andends in Morondava. Three to six-daycustom
programs are available from + Getting around Domestic flights on
Airbungalows and a luxurious swimming Madagascar are the most
feasible way ofMay to November. Prices start frompool overlooking
the stone forest. Room exploring the island, as theyre fast
andUS$420 per person, with breakfasts, rates start from 35,000 MGA
(US$16) for relativelycheap as compared to renting adinners,
transportation (on a 4x4), a single room to 60,000 MGA for doubles
car or booking a tour. They range fromaccommodations, park entry
fees and (US$28). US$250 to $350 each way. Public transportan
English-speaking naturalist guide Madagascars Wildlife: (Clockwise
from top left)is neither efficient nor comfortable.Chez Maggie
stands out for its cozy,included. International airfare, lunches
However, if youre on a budget and havehomely setting and beachfront
locationand drinks are at your own expense. time to spare, the
taxi-brousse can be an with private bungalows, spacious two- Gentle
Spikes: A baby hedgehog curled interesting way to explore the
island from up in Renialia Nature Reserve. Curious Eyes: A
red-fronted lemur When to goOctober and November is the best a
local perspective.story chalets, a swimming pool and thebest
restaurant in town. Room rates startfrom 88,000 MGA (US$41).
observes us from a tree. time to visit as temperatures are mild and
Since certain parts are very remote androads are still accessible.
Avoid the rainydesolate, the only way to get around Dancing Lemur:
A Verraux Sifaka hangs from a branch. Birds of Paradise: The
Paradiseseason (January to March) as there is ahigh risk of
cyclones and some roads can sometimes after flying there is to rent
a car. In Madagascar, car rental usually Cost of travelThe currency
used in Madagascarbe inaccessible due to the rain. In general,
comes with a driver hiring without is the Malagasy ariary (MGA).
Currently Flycatcher adds color to Kirindy Forest. there is an
extreme temperature difference one tends to be more expensive. Car
hire the exchange rate is at US$1 to 2,163 Colored Creatures: A
Warty Chameleon between the hauts plateaux(centralprices vary
according to the duration of MGA. Prices are cheap in Madagascar
camouflages on a light brown branch. highlands) and the coast.
Summer seesrental and the type of vehicle but generally but tours,
private transportation and Carnivore Alert: The ferocious
fossa,temperatures rising to a sweltering 104F (range from US$60
for a small car to US$80hotel prices can be costly like in other
Madagascars only predator.40C) along the coast while Antananarivo
for a 4x4. parts of Africa. Hotel room rates areand the highlands
can get as low as very affordable in most parts of the Cobalt
Sweetness: A beautiful Malachite Kingfisher in Morondavas
mangroves. Locust Pocus: Multi-colored locust in46F (8C) come
winter (December toFebruary). W AccommodationDue to the remoteness
of certaincountry, ranging from US$18 to US$100.Restaurant prices
will also suit mostbudgets, from a simple local dish for 4,300
parts of Madagascar, there are few Isalo. If youre planning to
travel in the central accommodation choices except in theMGA (US$2)
to a European meal costinghighlands, be sure to bring warm
clothesaround 17,000 MGA (US$8). capital. Options in the islands
moreregardless of the season as temperatures far-flung corners can
range from basicare around 59F (15C) even in thesummer. The coastal
areas are generallyhot year round, although it can be nippy at
wooden huts to high-end luxury resorts. Sakamanga Hotel, located in
the heart ofV PackingWeather can be extreme regardlessof the time
of year so bring clothing to fitnight in the winter. Antananarivos
old town, features colorful,all seasons. In winter, youll need a
fleece eclectic rooms of varying size and price.and a thick winter
coat, especially if you! Getting thereA lack of direct flights to
Room rates start from 52,000 MGA (US$24).plan to travel in the
central highlands.In summer, bring a few layers suchAntananarivo
makes it tricky to findsinglets, long-sleeved shirts and a light
Kirindy Reserve Bungalows is the onlycheap airfare, especially from
the US. Thejacket for the cool nights. Take sunglasses
accommodation available in the forestbest way to reach Antananarivo
involves and sunscreen, especially in summer. reserve. Although the
wooden huts areflying to either Paris or to Johannesburg Binoculars
are essential. basic with few facilities, they give you theand
taking a connecting flight on to Ivato real experience of sleeping
in a forest.International Airport. Air Madagascar andAir France fly
three to four times weeklyfrom Paristo Antananarivo (13-hour Room
rates start from 37,000 MGA (US$17). M Websites Here are some
helpful linksjourney; return airfares from US$1,300). LOlympe du
Bemaraha is one of the Madagascar National Tourism BoardAir
Madagascar also flies twice weekly most upscale hotels near the
TsingyParcs Madagascarfrom Johannesburg to Antananarivode Bemaraha
with lavish teak woodLonely Planet Madagascar28 | WildJunket
April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 29 16. AdvertorialUltimate
Madagascar:A River Expedition Along the MangokyRivers, rainforests
and highlands: explore theisland of contrasts with Remote River
ExpeditionsPhotos by Norman KingIsolated for millions of years
incontrasting terrains and habitats: from Featured in the book
1,000 Places Highlights of the tripthe Indian Ocean, Madagascarsthe
central highlands to the humid to Visit Before You Die by Patricia
7-day calm water raftingflora and fauna has evolved inrainforests
in the east, dry sandstone Schultz, this is a world-class riversuch
a unique way that 18th cliffs in the west andbizarre karst Andasibe
Rainforest Reserve and camping experience. With expertcentury
French explorer Philippeforestsin the north. Kirindy Forest Reserve
naturalist guides to lead the way andde Commerson described the
islandTo experience all of it in one trip, Avenue of the Baobabs an
experienced cook to prepare mealsas "the naturalists promised land.
He Remote River Expeditions has specially over an open fire, this
expedition is an Scuba-diving in Ifatywrote, "Nature seems to have
retreateddesigned a program, Mangoky River, excellent mix of
adventure, culture and Hotel Stay in Morondavathere into a private
sanctuary whereRainforest & West, which brings you onshe could
work on different models a touch of luxury in the wilderness.
Expert English-speakingan action-packed adventure across thefrom
any she used elsewhere." naturalists/guidescountry.Although much
has changed on Float past the worlds largest baobabDates: May 23 -
Jun 09, 2012 Maximum 10 peopleMadagascar since the 18th century, it
forest, catch magnificent sunsets along Includes all river and
campingDuration: 18-Daysremains a true naturalists paradise. the
river banks, spot a wide myriadequipmentNo Amazon jungle can beat
the of lemurs, birds and bats and go on Cost: $3,340 (exc. flights)
4WD transportationdiversity and uniqueness of species tohikes and
nocturnal walks - the Single Supplement: $210be found here. Besides
outstandingmulti-activitiy itinerary of this 18-day For more
details, check13 & 15-Day Programs also availablewildlife,
Madagascar also boastsexpedition will bring you through a Remote
River Expeditions.extreme biodiversity - featuring very great
variety of ecosystems.30 | WildJunket April/May
2012www.wildjunket.com | 31 17. At Home inKyrgyzstanThis Central
Asian country has dramatic mountainlandscapes, pristine nature and
outstandingtrekking opportunities - but its the people whomake it
an experience youll never forget.woRds and photos by NATASHA VON
GELDERN32 | WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 33 18.
UNDER THE RADAR KYRGYZSTANM ountains, mountains and mountains in
almost every direction. Overhanging the peaks, spectacular
waterfallscareened onto icy rivers while acresof dark fir forests
tumbled down themountainside. As we trekked acrossEastern
Kyrgyzstan, a deep valleystretched out before us, running
acrosshuge expanses of grasslands. Amidst the roar and fizz of
waterrushing over rocks, roars of laughterechoed in the distance -
a group ofpeople had gathered by the river banks.For days now we
hadnt seen or heardanyone else; yet, out in this remoteprairie, wed
stumbled upon a familygathering. Come join us, one of the old
ladieswaved and shouted, as my guide Igordecades of political
conflicts and For days, we left civilization
behind,translated.economic issues yet that was far from wandering
through alpine meadows The three-generation family of 20 the
Kyrgyzstan I found. brimming with gaudy primula flowers from
grey-haired grandparents toThe Kyrgyz were by far the mostand wild
irises little wonder why thischubby three-year-old toddlers had
generous people Ive ever met and was called the Valley of the
Flowers.driven up the trail in their ladas orKyrgyzstans pristine
mountains the Once in a while, we would stumbleon horseback,
spreading woven rugs wildest Ive seen. This was a country upon
horse herds and sheepdogsunder the pine trees by the river,
emanating peace and tranquility, with grazing on the grassy
hillsides.and joyously feasting and enjoying unexplored backcountry
and most of I will take you to parts oftheir time in the outdoors.
They wereall, a genuine sense of generosity andKyrgyzstan that few
foreigners visit,celebrating their youngest daughtershospitality
amongst its people. promised Igor, who led me throughbirthday and
insisted we join them.grass-laden walking trails towards a hut in
the Arashan Valley. Over the next few hours, I wasLand of PeaksAn
enthusiastic localplied with bowl after bowl of chay Overshadowed
by China to the east mountaineering group had gatheredtea and
mounds of delicious plov, a and Kazakhstan to the north, this here,
as with every weekend, usingPersian dish of waxy rice mixed with
small and largely overlooked countrythis as a base to explore the
valley.a constellation of spices. The family is dwarfed by its
neighbors on the mapThe group of amateur mountaineershad
dismembered a whole sheep, hung but it certainly packs a punch when
itwas made up of local draftsmen andit on a wooden rack and
barbequed comes to landscapes.engineers who lived out in the
capital.it above a roaring fire; now they wereWith 93 percent of
the country They regaled me with local myths andslicing up big
chunks of meat and sitting over 3,280 feet (1,000 meters), legends
and stories of their personalpiling them up on my plate. Like a
Kyrgyzstan is a medley of monster lives.family I never knew
existed, they gave peaks, plunging valleys, smoothWe love the
mountains and try tome the warmest welcome Kyrgyzstan glaciers,
thick deciduous forests and come here whenever we can, sharedstyle.
ice-blue lakes yet to be discovered byone of the mountaineers. It
was easy trekkers or climbers. to see why theyd chosen this spot
asUnknown Territories Over the next week, I explored the their
weekly escape. As the sun set, weLandlocked in the middle of
Centralsculpted alpine valleys of the Terskeidipped our exhausted
bodies in theAsia, the republic of Kyrgyzstan isAlu mountain range
on overnight natural hot spring pool to sensationallargely unknown
to the outside world treks. Every bend of the trail revealed views
of the river valley far below. As From the old Kyrgyz men spotting
traditional isolated within gargantuan mountaina peek of the
imposing snow-cappednight fell, we bonded over the campfire felt
hats to the teenagers dressed in colorfulpeaks. Following the
collapse of the mountains and every twist its rolling under
star-lit skies a perfect way tocostumes preparing for a parade, its
theSoviet Union, Kyrgyzstan experienced prairies and deeply
entrenched valleys. end a long day of trekking. By the end people
of Kyrgyzstan that strikes me most.34 | WildJunket April/May 2012
www.wildjunket.com | 35 19. UNDER THE RADAR KYRGYZSTAN UNDER THE
RADAR KYRGYZSTANLeft to right: the Valley of Flowers;granite
mountains near Karakol; anomad in the mountains near Kochkor.The
Kyrgyz were by far the most generous people Ive everimmaculate
boulevards and modernoutdoor cafs. Grey Soviet apartmentmet and
Kyrgyzstans pristine mountains the wildest Ive seen. buildings
stood alongside Russian-style orthodox churches and dustyof the
excursion, I left with new friends up, they would take their herds
andunder the dim light. Chyngyzs mother, eateries. Only after
weaving my wayand the promise to return someday.move on to the
lake, following the Shien-Bibi, stacked my plate sky-highthrough
the outdoor markets andsummer grasses.with chunks of tender mutton
meatnarrow alleyways in the quieter parts and scoops of plov rice,
only to beof town then did I see hints of CentralModern Nomads The
family of five lived in a yurt, aconical roofed tent made out of a
thin washed down with shots of kymyz, the Asian traits lurking in
certain cornersMoving on to the tiny central- highly prized
fermented mares milk. of the city.willow frame and topped with a
thickKyrgyzstan village of Kochkor, IWhen Marco Polo passed
throughBut what I would most rememberlayer of woolen felt. Sunlight
pouredsaddled up and headed for the jailoo orthis part of the world
in the 13th about Bishkek were the people Ithrough a round opening
in the middlesummer mountain pastures. This areacentury he
described kymyz "like white met: the old man in an embroideredof
the roof, and beneath it stood a potis crammed with valleys and
slopes wine, very good to drink." ContraryKyrgyz-hat; the
over-enthusiastic we were literally in the midst of the belly stove
used for concocting stews taxi driver who volunteered to be myand
providing warmth during theto my expectations, it tasted more
likeMountains of Heaven, Tian Shan,burnt milk than a divine nectar
of the guide for free; and the impromptuwhich makes up almost 80%
of thechilly nights.vodka toasts I had on the streets withAs the
evening sun slowlygods. But perhaps there was a magicalcountry and
stretches across the rest of ingredient in it, for that night I
dozed strangers.Central Asia. disappeared into the horizon, we
satOn my taxi ride back to the airport,outside under the clear
skies sippingoff with the zing of the kymyz still Velvety green
hills gave way to steep lingering in my senses.the driver said his
house was on theoxidized cliffs, snowy mountainsbowls of chay while
an intoxicating way and asked if Id like a bowl of chay.and frozen
lakes. The granite greyswirl of smoke and mutton fat filledI
politely said no, Save it for your nextpeaks were now blanketed in
white,the air. Before dinner, we sat in a roundA Soviet
Memoircustomer.randomly dotted with yurts andcircle as the family
performed a small To end my trip, I left the mountains He looked up
into the rear-viewgrazing horses in the distance. Muslim ritual the
amin by passingbehind and headed to its capital city, mirror and
met my gaze. Theres Here, I met Chyngyz-Bek and histheir hands over
their faces as a gestureBishkek, where nearly a quarter of the
always something for our next visitor.family, semi-nomadic Kyrgyz
who liveof thanks. countrys 5.5 million people live.I smiled and
promised to returnin the jailoo each summer, herdingI followed
suit, out of respect, only to At first glance, this former Soviet
city someday for his cup of chay Ill betheir flocks of sheep for
sustenance. have three-year-old Tasim sniggering appeared to be a
blend of European back soon enough, because KyrgyzstanOnce the
spring snow melted higherat me, her cheeks round and rosy red and
Eastern influences, with wide, truly felt like home. 136 |
WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 37 20. Nomadic Life:
Chyngyz-Bek andKyrgyzstans his family with their yurt Shop in one
of Asias oldest bazaars in Osh Go back in time and witness one of
the oldest bazaars in the world people have been trading in Osh
since the 5th century BC. From the trail of trucks, it is clear the
Silk Road is not a thing of the past. Shop for handmade artisan or
elaborate embroidery; visit the local blacksmith or buy the savory
dried apricots to take home. Stay in a yurt at Lake Song-K Herding
families come to the exquisite Lake Song-Kl for the vast summer
grasslands. When the grass is gone they pack up the yurt and move
to greener pastures higher up the valley. For homestay guests, they
usually make fresh bread, homemade jam and fresh cream. Hikers will
also enjoy the variety of trekking opportunities in the surrounding
hills. Trek and climb in the Pamir Alai Valley The magnificent
Pamir Alai mountain range runs along the border of Kyrgyzstan and
Tajikistan. Approaching the mountains from the village of Sary Tash
through soft green pastureland, youll often find yak herds and
nomads. This is serious trekking and mountaineering territory. You
are likely to need a trekking company or guide in this region,
especially to climb the popular Peak Lenin. Association guesthouses
offer B&B homestays in towns and villages across the country
from US$8 to US$25 per night. The accommodation is very simple and
traditional. The Hotel Holiday Bishkek is aWhen to go The best time
to visit is September, A one-month, single-entry tourist visa can
be obtained at the airport for US$80 without invitation or
sponsorship (the comfortable, conveniently located hotel with a
pool and Wi-Fi. Room rates start although spring (from mid-April to
mid- most liberal tourist visa policy in Central from US$140. June)
also sees pleasant temperatures. It is sunny most parts of the year
butAsia). The Manas International AirportYak Tours Guesthouse in
Karakol offers temperatures vary from one part of theis a 25-minute
taxi ride to Bishkeks citybudget accommodation in an old colonial
country to the next: around Bishkek and center. house with basic
facilities but good in the Fergana Valley, summer (July
tohome-cooked meals and a garden. It also August) can see
temperatures over 86F (30C). In winter, heavy snow blocks the +
Getting around There are some mini-bus routes organises trekking
guides and tours. Room rates start from US$10. high mountain
passes, although low levelbut the shared taxi system is the most
popular transport mode as it is cheap and Its advisable to book
yurt stays and other camping and trekking are possible
fromactivities through the Community Based early June. the vehicles
are comfortable. Head to the town bazaar in the morning, find a
taxi,Tourism (CBT) scheme. They take a small percentage for
administration costs and ! Getting thereThere are no direct flights
from and wait until the other seats are taken before setting off.
the rest of the money goes to the local people; in other words,
your hosts. There North America to Bishkek so the best option is to
fly via Europe. Flights to Bishkek from London Heathrow with BMI W
Accommodation Tourist infrastructure in are CBT offices in many
towns where you can book homestays. Kyrgyzstan is in its infancy.
There is a operate three times per week (return fares from US$800).
Aeroflot flies from Moscow Sheremetyevo at least once per day to
small range of hotels in central Bishkek, mainly geared to business
travelers. M WebsitesHere are some helpful links Bishkek (return
fares from US$470). Hotel accommodation outside the Lonely Planet
Kyrgyzstan Turkish Airlines flies daily from Istanbulcapital is
limited to the larger townsGuide to Central Asia Land of Peaks:
Dramatic but Community Based Tourism (CBT) to Bishkek (return fares
from US$750).Oriental Express Central Asia landscapes of Kyrgyzstan
enthrall38 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 39 21.
Chasing theLeatherback TrailOnce a year hundreds of endangered
Leatherback turtles descendonto a remote beach along the coast of
West Africa. Its a sight unlikeany in the world that will impress
even the most hardened traveler.WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHs by LINDA
SCHONKNECHT40 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 41
22. DISPATCH GABONCoastal Life: A motherprepares fish for dinner in
thevillage of MayumbaUnder the dim lights of early dawn,
wewithnessed one of the most moving wildlifephenomenon on our
planet.S hhh! Look! One unborn child this was clearly anparks
created to protect over 11% of of the eco-guards important ritual
to her.the countrys land and waters. Thanks whispered.
OurLeatherback sea turtles are one ofto this strategic move, Gabons
natural eyes raced over the rarest species of turtles, with their
heritage is one of the most intact in the sands beneath existence
dating back to over 200 Africa. With its luscious green junglesour
feet, searching for a hint of themillion years ago. They spend most
of and prolific wildlife, Gabon has earnedanimal that wed walked
over 10kmtheir lives out in the vast blue expansefor itself the
title of Africas Eden.overnight to see. As the sun coyly of the
Atlantic Ocean, except for one Driving up the western Africanpoked
out from behind the clouds,period in the year where the breeding
coastline in our trusty 4x4, myour vision cleared. There she was
thefemales head towards shore to begin videographer husband and I
hadleatherback turtle, a behemoth of aone of the most astonishing
natural lumbered and bounced throughcreature, heaving herself out
of the marvels - and Gabon in West Africa is Namibia, Angola, and
the Democraticchilly waters and onto the beach.one of the best
places to witness it. Republic of Congo to get to the turtleUnder
the dim lights of early dawn,In 2002, Mayumba National Parkcamp of
Nyafessa in Mayumba inwe witnessed one of the most movingwas
created to protect Africas mostsearch of the nesting leatherbacks.
Thewildlife phenomenon on our planet. important nesting beach.
Stretching only question that remained: would weAs the leatherback
crawled slowly onto over 348 square miles (900 square catch a
glimpse?the golden sand, she gently slapped herkilometers) of sea
and coastal forestspair of front flippers, marking out thein
Southern Gabon, this park is homebeginnings of her nest site. to
arguably the worlds greatest densityRumble in the JungleA few feet
away from the lapping of nesting leatherback turtles. MoreWe had
started our journey into thewaves, she started scooping outthan
30,000 turtles nest on Mayumbas small coastal village of
Mayumbamounds of sand with her back flippers, beaches between
September and April despite a pre-warning that the routecreating a
bowl of a nest for hereach year.there was nearly impassable aseggs.
The leatherback took her time, Mayumba is the largest marine
parkmarine conservation enthusiasts, wemeticulously finding a home
for herin the country one of 13 national were eager to chase the
leatherback42 | WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 43
23. DISPATCH GABON turtles trail and wouldnt be easilynothing more
than a large tent. A Today, it is facing the danger of deterred.
Heading away from thetarpaulin had been rooted into the extinction
the major cause for its border of Congo and into Gabon, we ground
by poles, sheltering a smalldecline: human activities. Its eggs are
made our way along an unexplored bush kitchen and a few one-man
still being collected for food in many dirt road that would lead us
into thetents for researchers and eco-guards parts of the world.
Asian exploitation heartland of Southern Gabon and onto to escape
from the mosquitoes in the of turtle nests has been cited as the
the remote coastline.night and the intense heat during themost
significant factor for the speciesA few hours of bumping andday.
global population decline. grinding later, the glorified goat track
Sara and a few local eco-guards It is people like Sara that enable
us disappeared into a quagmire of treewere spending three months at
a time to still have the opportunity to witness trunks and mushy
bog. Along the way, camped out with supplies and turtle even our
4x4 designed to withstandnatures wonders. With an undyingtagging
devices, waking up in theScenes from Mayumba: fromthe toughest of
terrain and weather passion for wildlife ecology, themiddle of the
night to walk the beachesa village shed (middle right)conditions
surrendered and wasconservation scientist has devoted herduring
peak turtle nesting season to a baby turtle crawling outstuck
within thick layers of mud and in the hopes of collecting data
andlife to conducting research on marineof its nest (bottom
left)earth. satellite tagging the turtles. mammals and protecting
whats left ofFor over 11 and a half hours, weThat night all of our
effort was our environment. dug, pushed and hauled. With a dense
rewarded. Waking up at 2 am we setNot every night is the same here.
forest canopy enveloping us in every off for the shoreline, armed
withSome nights we have to dodge tropical direction, we were
immersed in a torches and clipboards. For the eco- thunderstorms
and fight heavy rain natural sauna the sweltering heatguards, this
was simply a nightly ritual with not a single turtle in sight for
rising up to 95F (35C) and the 100% but for us, it was a peek into
a veryhours, Sara told us. humidity making it hard to
breathe.different world.Walking off into the dark can beCaught on a
dirt road in the middle In the thick of the night the humidity
incredibly intimidating, especiallyIn the peak mating season,
turtles sometimesarrive in their hundreds, one after another,
crawling flipper over flipper... of nowhere, we fought hard to
rescue had begun to ease off slightly and our when you are a good
days drive away our vehicle. Finally at 3am, in one hard
perspiration saturated bodies hadfrom the nearest village.
Sometimes, heave, the car was released from the begun to cool down.
After walkingwe even see silver eyes blinking out muddy muck with a
satisfying plop. 10km towards the early hours of dawn,from the
jungle, staring at us. As if on cue, the heavens opened upwe
finally spotted the giant leatherback and we were drenched by a
tropicalBut there are days like these thatin the dim light and
settled into themake all traces of blistered feet and
thunderstorm.cooling sand to watch the spiritual bug bitten skin
worth it. In the peakritual of her nesting. mating season, turtles
sometimes Finding Dinosaurs With her long front flippers and arrive
in their hundreds, one after the Rolling into Niyafessa camp beaten
massive teardrop-shaped carapace, other, crawling flipper over
flipper up, we instantly knew the grueling the turtle was estimated
to be aroundfive feet (1.6 meters) long, weighingonto the soft sand
to prepare their journey here was well worth it. Youreover 1,100
pounds (500 kg). Of the 222 nesting sites. Its a rare sight and I
just in time! scientist Sara Maxwell explained, Last night we found
a fewspecies of living turtles, the leatherback count my blessings
each time I see it. tracks and when we go on our walkturtle is not
only the largest species Gabon is truly the kind of place that
tonight, we might have a good chance but also one of the oldest:
bones from can bring you back down to earth, of seeing some. the
turtle that have been found date especially when you get a bit too
big for The small turtle monitoring camp back as far as 100 million
years with itsyour traveling boots. It can surprise you, of
Niyafessa, set up by the Wildlife ancestors having survived the age
of shock you, and remind you that there is Conservation Society
(WCS), wasthe dinosaurs. no other place quite like it on earth. 144
| WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 45 24. Bring
WildJunket Magazine wherever you gowith our iOS and Android
editions!95F (26-35 C) year round.The mostcomfortable time to
travel is duringthe dry season from June to August,as there is
slightly less rain and lesschance of roads being blocked. June
toSeptember is the best if you are planning! Getting there Sadly
there is a lack of direct Tchibanga and catch a 5-hour bush taxi to
Mayumba. A one-way trip is about CFA 7,000 (US$14) for a cabin and
CFAto go on Safari. If you are coming forwhale-watching, arrive in
July and earlyflights to Gabon, especially from the US.
September.The best way to reach Libreville is via6,000 (US$12) in
the back of the truck.Frankfurt and Paris. Lufthansa flies
fivetimes per week direct from Frankfurt The route is about 67
miles (108 km) and can be very bumpy, but incredibly beautiful. If
you are staying the nightW AccommodationSleeping in Mayumba is
veryto Libreville (7-hour journey; return basic, dont come
expecting too muchairfares from US$1,500). Royal Air in Gamba, try
the Hotel of the Conseil and bring along a mosquito net. Try
theMaroc flies daily from Paris to Libreville Departemental and in
Tchibanga the Hotel de lOcean at the far southern endvia Casablanca
(10-hour journey; returnHotel Modibotie. of town - room rates start
from CFAairfares from US$1,600).20,000 CFA (US$40) per night. A
goodVisas are obtainable on arrival, but can % Driving It is about
434 miles (700 km)budget option in the center of town isthe Hotel
de Bac - room rates are CFAonly be purchased in dollars. For
thefrom Libreville to Mayumba and the12,500 (US$25). Outside of
town try themost updated information on air travel route can take
anything from 20 hoursbeachfront Hotel Mbidia Koukou, bestin Gabon
use http://www.adlgabon.com.to a couple of days depending on
roadknown for its laidback vibes. Rooms rates conditions. A 4X4
vehicle is a must.+ Getting around Mayumba is in the far South so
Renting a 4WD is difficult without also renting a driver. Europcar,
Hertz andare CFA15,000 (US$30)per night.your only two options are
flying down orrenting a car and driving: Avis have offices in
Libreville. Check points are common in Gabon and drivers Best time
to seeLeatherback turtles are asked to show passports, driving
November and April are the best times Flying! Domestic air
carriers, Air Service license or vehicle registration documents. to
see the turtles nesting (hot and humidbut worth it), and January,
February andand La Nationale, service Mayumba,but be aware that
flights are sometimes When to go Gabon is on the equator and
hasMarch towards the end of the season isthe best to see the
hatchlings. A greatcancelled due to repairs or bad weather. a very
humid, tropical climate where source of information is the
MayumbaOtherwise you can fly to Gamba oraverage temperature ranges
from 79 toNational Park website.46 | WildJunket April/May 2012 25.
Ancient Past, New PeaceAfter decades of intense civil war and a
devastating tsunami,peace has finally returned to Sri Lanka, an
island ofmillennia-old temples and timeless ruins.Words Candace
Rose Rardon | Photographs Sherry Ott48 | WildJunket April/May
2012www.wildjunket.com | 49 26. DESTINATION SRI LANKA Stairway to
Heaven: the climb that leads to the summit of the Sigiriya Rock
Golden Glory (right): one of the Buddha statues in DambullaHe isnt
blinking. Mystatue in the first temple measures Pramatissa. Hes
sitting beneath a treeeyes stay fixed in this 14 meters long.
Inside, the air iswith a few other guides and invitingimpossible
staringfragrant with the smell of incense, still me to join
them.contest, willing the figure sweet from the pink and white
lotus I soon learn one of the men isnt ain front of me to defy
theblossoms brought by pilgrims. As Iguide but has come from the
townodds and give me a wink.move from cave to cave, rain begins
tobelow. Every day twice a day, AnantuBut then again, at over 2,000
years fall outside. The gentle trickle againstmakes the trek up the
hill bearingold, this guy probably has had a little the rock only
adds to the peacefulsamosas, egg patties and a thermospractice.
atmosphere surrounding the site.of black tea, providing breakfast
andWith his perfect golden skin and Outside the temples, I pause
for lunch for the guides.impeccable posture, hes one of 153 a
moment at the edge of a cliff - the Anantu is from
Trincomalee,Buddha statues lining the walls oflandscape parting
like stage curtains toPramatissa tells me. He moved herethe cave
temples in Dambulla, Sri reveal the world below. Only the
gianttwenty years ago because of the war.Lanka. Built into a
160-meter rock, the crown of the golden Buddhas head isLocated on
the northeast coast of theGolden Temple of Dambulla began as
avisible amidst the trees. I spot the road country, Trinco (its
often shortened),Buddhist monastery in the 3rd century Id just
traveled on from Kandy, now awas severely affected by the civil
warBC a truly unfathomable amountthin black ribbon winding in and
outand the 2004 tsunami.since my own country is barely 400of the
forest. The expansive flatlandsI head back down the hill with a
bellyyears old.are ringed by dark, jagged hills andfull of two cups
of warm tea and I takeAlthough they differ in size andjust in the
distance, the unmistakablethis mention of the war as a sign that
Imshape, each cave temple is a marvel ofmound of Sigiriya Rock. on
the right path. As fascinated as I amshrines, boldly-painted
murals, andYou want tea? Its one of theby Sri Lankas millennia of
history, it isBuddhas in a variety of poses: sitting, guides Id
spotted walking around the chance to learn about the
countrysstanding and even reclining - one suchthe complex earlier,
a man namedmore recent past that intrigues me most.50 | WildJunket
April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 51 27. DESTINATION SRI
LANKAApart from occasional birdsong and the wind rustling through
thetrees, there is complete silence, and it isnt hard to imagine
that I amthe sole keeper of this temple in the clouds.Ceylons
Ancient Past (LTTE) as the latter group battled forare torn between
watching my step andan independent Tamil state. Peace talks taking
in the view before me.Sri Lanka lies just 20 miles south of and
ceasefires were attempted severalHeavy mist from an early
morningIndia in the Indian Ocean - a meretimes throughout the two
decades of shower surrounds the sheer-faced rockdollop of an
island, yet it is steeped in a conflict, but it wasnt until May of
2009 like a protective cloak. Theres nothinghistory far greater
than its geographical that the Tamil Tigers finally agreed to like
rain to keep visitors away, andsize. The first settlers are said to
have lay down their arms.despite the many buses I saw
pullingarrived in the 5th century B.C, and This being my first
visit to a post-into Sigiriya Village the night before,throughout
time, the country has been conflict zone, Ive arrived with a desire
I am alone at the top and I couldnt beknown as Taprobane by the
Greeks, to see how such a status affects thehappier.Serendib by the
Arabs (where we get country; both what remains of theAt times, the
leaden clouds are sothe word serendipity) and as Ceylon war and how
the nation is re-building.thick that the entire rock is hidden
byduring British rule that itself anBut before I get to Trinco, I
have more an impenetrable white haze. At otheriteration of the
Portuguese Ceilo. All ground to cover ground even moretimes, the
haze retreats, pulling backthese names reflect the countrys rich,
ancient than Dambulla. Its as though to reveal the jungled hills
below, andcultural heritage and the important I have to learn about
Sri Lankas pastthe summits are peeking through therole it has
played in the region over the before I can understand its
present.mist like tips of an iceberg. Apart fromlast few centuries.
occasional birdsong and the wind Just as Sri Lanka
gainedindependence from the British in 1948, If Stones Could
Talkrustling through the trees, there iscomplete silence, and it
isnt hard tothe country began to turn against itself. 1,198.imagine
that I am the sole keeper ofYears of ethnic tension simmering
1,199.this temple in the clouds.below the surface finally came to a
boil. 1,200. Here in the very center of SriFrom 1983 to 2009, a
civil war ragedAs I reach the final stair that leads toLanka sits
one of the countrys eightbetween the Sinhalese government and the
370-meter summit of Sigiriya RockUNESCO World Heritage sites,
datingthe Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam(Sinhalese for Lions
Rock), my eyesas far back as the 5th century B.C. Afriend in
Colombo told me, SigiryaRock is Sri Lanka, even if it
meansdifferent things to different people. Tome, it means a chance
to imagine whatWhitewater rafting in KitulgalaKitulgalas
rainforest-covered hills make for the perfect backdrop to a rafting
exactly took place here so many yearsexpedition through five miles
of class II and III rapids. From the Kelaniya ago.Ganga river, you
can spot kingfishers and sleek-throated cormorants. All that
remains on the summitis a maze of crumbling terraces andSurfing at
Arugam Bay stairs that lead nowhere. Only theCatch the perfect wave
along the countrys remote southeast coast. The best brick outlines
of ancient foundationsconditions are from May to November, so grab
your board and head to spots criss-crossing the grassy surface
givelike Crocodile Rock and Pottuvil Point. some clue to the many
lives that haveWhale watching off Dondra Point lived on this rock.
It first existed as aFrom December to April, this southernmost
point of Sri Lanka near the beach Buddhist monastery, and it was
duringtown of Mirissa gives you an excellent chance of viewing
migrating spermthe 3rd to 1st centuries B.C. that many ofwhales,
blue whales and dolphins. its caves and shelters were carved out
Lions Rock: The base of thebeneath boulders and ledges.
WhenSigiriya where feet are Leopard spotting in Yala National Park
Prince Kashyapa moved the countrys carved into the rock wallsWith
one of the highest concentrations of leopards in the world, a
safari through Ancient Ruins (bottom):capital from Anuradhapura to
SigiriyaCrumbling terraces on the summitYala the second largest
park in Sri Lanka will have you on the edge of your seat. in 477
A.D., the rock became the bear witness to the glorious pastfortress
and palace. During this time,52 | WildJunket April/May 2012
www.wildjunket.com | 53 28. DESTINATION SRI LANKADESTINATION SRI
LANKA While Trinco has moved on to develop quite a pleasant
old-town flair, its the locals who still hold on to the memories of
the past war. it acquired pools, water gardens and recovering from
the conflict that endedits the locals who still hold on to the
intricate frescoes a few still adorn the not so long ago. As one of
the mostmemories of the past war. walls of a cave. hotly-contested
spots during the war, One morning, a tuk tuk driverEven as
archaeologists and historians Trincomalee clearly deserves a visit
named Kumara stops me in the street. continue to debate Sigiriyas
functionsand I soon find out theres more to this Hello, my friend!
Where from? Where throughout time, what strikes me ischarming town
than its past. going? You want to ask me a question? simply how it
makes you wonder about Built along a sweeping natural I can speak
with you, I know English, the stories that wcould be shared if
harbor, its hard to believe Trincoyou can ask me anything you want.
only the stones could talk.was a conflict zone without the
manyAlways happy to chat with a local, Isigns posted in front of
the new listen as Kumara tells me how life has Rebuilding the
Eastbuilding projects all supported by been for him in the past few
years. My journey from the misty hill organizations like the UN,
Oxfam,During the war, it was very difficultLocal Life: Tuktuks
along the streetscountry through time-warped templesRed Cross, and
World Concern Sri to live here,. he said. I am a tuk tukMisty
Fields: View of the dark forests and caves has been a steady
processLanka. While Trinco has moved on todriver. If the road is
closed because ofand hills from Sigiriya Rock. of heading east, to
areas that are still develop quite a pleasant old-town flair,
fighting, I cant do my work. No tuk54 | WildJunket April/May 2012
www.wildjunket.com | 55 29. SouthernDelightsSri Lankas southern
coast is littered with stretches ofbeaches and clusters of
lesser-known villages. Dont missout on exploring them along this
golden coast:MirissaThis sweeping beach along a quiet fishing
village is theideal place to kick back in a hammock and rest for
yournext adventure in Sri Lanka. HikkaduwaGalleSpend a day
wandering through the streets of this old fort During daylight
hours this coral sanctuary with its huge swells and palm-lined
beach draw divers and surfers, ! Getting there Bandaranaike
International are also available for a higher fare. up front start
at 3,000LKR a night (US$26), while other simpler rooms arecity and
UNESCO World Heritage site. Its stone rampartswhile its nightlife
make it the place to be during theAirport just outside Colombo is
currently the countrys only international airport. When to Go Given
its tropical climate, Sri offered for as low as 1,000LKR
(US$8.75).were built by the Dutch along the natural harbor in
1663.weekend. Low-cost Indian airline SpiceJet recently started a
daily service from Chennai, Lanka has two rainy seasons each hits
different parts of the country in different months. The best time
to avoid the Cost of TravelAlthough costs are still reasonable,
India, which makes Sri Lanka a naturalyou might find Sri Lanka to
be moretuk means no money.down my rhythm and soothed my revel in
the true remoteness of Nilaveli monsoons is from December to March
on expensive than its next-door neighbor, next destination if youre
already on the It is such conversations that show soul. and its
unexplored landscapes and in the South and West Coasts, and from
May India. Many high-end hotels give their subcontinent.me how much
has changed since theOn my last day in Trinco, I head north
particular, the feeling of having come asto September on the East
Coast. rates in US dollars. What you should If the idea of sailing
to Sri Lanka iskeep in mind are the steep entrance feeswar ended
and peace has returned: to Nilaveli Beach where a long, sandy far
as one can here.renewed safety, a rise in steadyemployment, and the
ability to travelstretch of shoreline extends to either sideof me.
As laps of foamy waves ply the As the rain picks up once again, I
startto head for shelter beneath towering alluring, Flamingo Liners
re-launched its ferry service from Tuticorin, India, to W
AccommodationSri Lanka offers a wide range to historic sites, but
remember that most have UNESCO World Heritage status. Colombo in
June 2011, which had beenof options for where to stay. While the A
combined Cultural Triangle ticketfreely throughout the country
again.shore, the horizon is unbroken except rows of coconut
trees,but not without acanceled previously because of the war.
country has a lack of hostels, there arefor US$50 will help you
save , covering Its this same freedom that allows for the two peaks
of Pigeon Island, final glance toward the horizon. I giveA single
berth one-way ticket is 6,105affordable guesthouses in most cities
and sites such as Sigiriya, Anuradhapura andme to explore the
sights of Trincoand the narrow bit of wooded beachPigeon Island a
look as if to say, Ill beLKR (US$51), which includes all meals its
usually possible to work out a goodPolonnaruwa, but note this
doesnt include- from its old Dutch fort, to the cliff-that connects
them. In summer, theback. and non-alcoholic drinks for the
14-hourprice with the owners that suits your the Dambulla cave
temples, which chargetop Koneswaram Temple, and thecoral beds just
off the island make for aI know Ill be returning for the sun, the
journey.budget. A key bargaining point is to stay LKR1,200
(US$10.50).Commonwealth War Cemetery at adivers (or snorkelers)
paradise, but even snorkeling, and the many stories that Ifor
multiple nights. A few good options Be aware that while visas were
previouslyrelaxing pace. In fact, Sri Lanka slowedduring the winter
monsoon season, I sense Sri Lanka still has left to tell.
1available on entry, this changed on December 1, 2011. Visit Sri
Lanka are: Burmese Rest House is an unusual V Packing The diversity
of environments in accommodation featuring a quiet,Sri Lanka from
balmy beaches to cool inmigration website for more details.
columned courtyard that seems out ofrainforests and mountains means
youll + Getting aroundMany visitors to Sri Lanka hire place in
bustling Kandy. Two Buddhist monks from Burma (and their four small
need to bring a wardrobe ready for any climate. A light raincoat
and umbrella are musts because its always rainy season a guide who
doubles as a driver on theirtortoises) welcome travelers to stay in
trip (costs US$40-60/day per person) butseveral upstairs rooms for
a mere 300LKRsomewhere. Other key items to remember for independent
travelers, rest assured (US$2.60) per night.are your bathing suit,
hiking boots, that this isnt necessary. A train networksunscreen
and mosquito repellent a Nilmini Lodge offers an escape from
mosquito net wouldnt hurt either since connects major cities and
the local bus the many resorts that line the road intoits not
always provided. system is highly efficient and reliable. Sigiriya
Village., A colorfully painted Not only are both route numbers and
destinations clearly labeled in English, buses are frequent, even
between smaller double room starts at 1,000LKR (US$8.75) a night.
Its close proximity to SigiriyaM Websites Here are some helpful
links Rock will give you a head start on your villages, and the
fares are unbeatable. For Sri Lanka Tourism Board morning hike as
well. example, the journey from Colombo toLonely Planet Guide to
Sri Lanka Kandy via Kitulgala on a local bus is 200 The newly
opened Dyke Rest guesthouse BBC Timeline of Sri Lanka LKR, or
US$1.75. Semi-luxury A/C buses in Trincomalee is just steps away
fromUNESCO in Sri Lanka Dutch Bay. Beautifully decorated rooms56 |
WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 57 30. CalendarThe
Big Easy is known for its lively cul-ture and explosive music scene
and willsurely not disappoint during its famousjazz festival.
Besides music, this festivalalso showcases food and crafts
well-known throughout the state of Loui-siana. In every corner of
New Orleans,youll find people dancing through thestreets and in
colonial squares, groov-ing to the rhythm of trumpets and
bluemelodies.Jazz & Heritage Festival:Songkran: New Orleans
27Apr-6May Spirit of Speyside:Mahavir Jayanti:Thailand 13-15Apr
Scotland 3-8MayIndia If you are visiting Thailand during these This
week-long whisky festival in 5AOn this day, the entire country
comesthree days, prepare to get soaked as theSpeyside, Northeastern
Scotland,together to commemorate the birthnation celebrates its New
Year with water features numerous tours to localof Jain religious
figures, Vardhamanguns and balloon fights! Thais
believedistilleries where visitors can learn theMahavir and
Tirthankar. Shrines andthat water gets rid of of bad luck so
traditions and taste Scotlands nationalPhoto credits: Dayodaya
(Wikipedia); Alberto Molero; Gabriel White; Marco Ghitti; Wyndham
Hollis; Ray Devlin; spiritofspeyside.com; Cristian Roberti; Nick
Fisher; musikfestspiele.com.temples are decorated with
colorfulcount yourself lucky to get wet! On New drink. The most
infamous of these is theflags and offerings, while people
offerYears Day, locals pray, clean their houses marathon Seven
Stills Tour that visitsfood and shelter to the less fortunate.and
temples, and sprinkle scented water all of Dufftowns distilleries
on a singleOne of the celebratory events duringon elders. The most
important event trip. But there is more - music, dancing,
prilMahavir Jayanti includes the traditionalduring this festival is
the bathing of theexhibitions, pipe bands and food andbathing of
the Tirthankar idol beforeBuddha statue in Chiangmai. craft
fairs.massive processions on the streets. For the 90 million
believers and This year marks the 60th anniversary practitioners of
the Buddhism faith, April of the Canadian Tulip Festival and it is
a month-long party as they celebratepromises to be more colorful
than ever Shakyamuni Buddhas birth. Hanawith over 50 varieties of
blooming tulips Matsuri celebrations take place in the filling the
boulevards and walkways of form of tea ceremonies, elaborate flower
the cities. Its a perfect time to visit as decorations and
religious parades. Mostspring begins and the scent of the flow-
businesses in Japan shut down during ers permeates the air. What
first started the golden week of April 29 through Mayout as a
celebration of peace and friend- 5. The beautiful cherry blossoms
alsoship is now an aesthetically pleasing bloom during this time of
the year.flower festival. Hana Matsuri:Tulip Festival: Holy Week:
1-7Apr Japan 8Apr Baisakhi Festival:Festa Dei Serpari:Canada
4-21MayDresden Music Festival: Christian WorldPunjab 13AprItaly3May
Germany 15May-3Jun For Christians, Holy Week marks theThis
spiritual festival is considered Stay clear of the town of Cocullo
in theThroughout these two weeks, Dresdens week before Easter. The
celebrations takethe most important day of the year in Abruzzo
province of Italy if you aregardens, palaces and religious venues
place in the form of elaborate religious Punjab, a state shared
between Pakistan afraid of snakes because on Festa dei play host to
nearly 80 different music parades in Catholic countries like
Spain,and India. The traditional celebrations Serpari (Festival of
Snakes), locals take events - from concerts to ballet and op-
Philippines, and Mexico. Virgin Mary are held to commemorate the
start ofto the streets slathered with these ven-era. The festival
includes more than 150 figurines are carried along the streetsthe
solar year and their harvest. Visits to omous creatures. To honor
their patronclassical concerts that feature local and by
brotherhood members who wearGurudwaras (places of worship for the
saint St. Dominic, known for his abilityworldwide performers (solo
and sym- pentitential robes and conical hats to Sikhs), religious
processions, communityto heal snakebites, they cover them-phony
orchestras). The Dresden Music conceal their faces. The biggest
parades lunches and folk dance are the highlights selves with
slithery snakes (their fangsFestival attracts over a million
specta- are found in Seville, Spain; and the mostof the day.
Amritsar in Northern India is are removed) before parading
throughtors each year to this beautiful town in colorful in
Antigua, Guatemala.a popular place for Baisakhi celebrations.the
town. Eastern Germany.58 | WildJunket April/May 2012
www.wildjunket.com | 59 31. A life lesson on the savannahsof
Tanzanias Serengeti.Always stay close to thecamp and never
gowalking into the grass onyour own. y s aThe words spoken by
Ebeneezer, ourTanzanian safari guide, had a fatherly tone
ofEsoadmonishment as if I was not a grown man.P h otI had been
camping my entire adult life and Iwas familiar with danger. I was
sure I couldhandle myself here on the savannah of theSerengeti.
When the light of my headlamp caught twoamber gems amidst the
waist-high grass threehours later, my nerves understood the
weightof Ebeneezers words. Alone, at the edge ofthe campground
where semi-manicured grassextended to the deep purple sky, I
sensedhow important a group is to survival on theSerengeti. I
backed slowly from those mysterious eyes.They could be a lone
gazelle or cape buffalo.They could be a hyena or a lion. I
wasntwaiting around to find out as I swiftly mademy way back to my
daughter and huddledclose with the rest of the group. The next
morning I noticed groupseverywhere I looked; from a harem of
femaleThompsons gazelles to herds of wildebeestsstomping the dusty
fields as we drove by. Isaw safety for newborn elephants amongsta
dozen matriarchs lumbering through thebrowning grass, their tusks
swaying close tothe ground. And I saw it in the Masai villagewhere
young men head out to the wildernessin groups to hunt for food. A
week on the savannah taught me anumber of lessons, one of the most
importantbeing the importance of groups not onlyin Africa, but at
home as well. Groups giveus strength, lift our voice louder and
affordus shelter when we need it. Few animalsthrive when they are
alone. For the rest of us,staying in a herd is essential to
survival. Here are a number of animal groups I foundwhile on
safari. Small and large alike, we are allstronger when we stick
together. 1 Words & Photographs By Peter West Carey60 |
WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 61 32. DESTINATION
TANZANIA Birds of a feather flock together and these flamingos are
no different. Found in shallow pools, such as this lake in
Ngorongoro Crater, their bright color camouflages the vast numbers.
With newborn calves easily vulnerable to lions, elephants also use
large numbers inorder to ward off attacks.Cautious giraffes keep an
eye in all directions. Their long necks give them a height
advantage, but smalleryoung can fall prey to cats hiding in the
bush62 | WildJunket April/May 2012 www.wildjunket.com | 63 33.
DESTINATION TANZANIA DESTINATION TANZANIA Cape buffalo share the
same needs as wildebeest, except that the buffalo has little chance
to outrun most animals that stalk it. Wildebeest, with their
pointed horns, still need the safety of large numbers as a safe
haven to raise their young until they can protect the herd. Even
lions prefer to hang out together in prides. Often a single male
will lead a group of females,although in this pride we spotted,
there were twomales and seventeen females.64 | WildJunket April/May
2012www.wildjunket.com | 65 34. DESTINATION TANZANIA Gazelles are
known as a favorite target of cheetahs and leopards. Without the
height advantage of the giraffe, these grazers rely on each others
heightened sense of smell and hearing to escape from predators.66 |
WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 67 35. DESTINATION
TANZANIACheetahs are family orientated for a good portion of their
life, sharingtheir kill with others in the clan. Baboons would be
easy picking if they were to leave the group high in the trees.
They also remain together to help raise the young.Warthogs not only
stay close as a family, they stay close to other groups. Small and
not especially fast, these herbivorous are often found near groups
ofelephants and other larger animals.68 | WildJunket April/May 2012
www.wildjunket.com | 69 36. While some hippos are solitary, they
are People are everywhere in this region of Africa often found
lounging in large groups just and also prefer to travel in packs,
whether they under the water surface, each keeping an eyeare
herding cattle as these Masais... out for aggressive
crocodiles....or traveling the dirt roadslooking for wildlife
tophotograph.70 | WildJunket April/May 2012www.wildjunket.com | 71
37. Mongolian EscapeA yurt stay on the empty plains of Inner
Mongolia reveals a regionin China rich in nomadic traditions and
untouched landscapes, anda world away from bustling cities. words
megan eaves | Photographs Fotolia72 | WildJunket April/May 2012
www.wildjunket.com | 73 38. JUST BACK CHINADramatic Landscapes: The
vast prairiesand mountains of Inner MongoliaBottom: Semi-permanent
yurts nearHohhotAs the sun slowly sets,Russia, it is a province of
few peoplecasting pink andAs an autonomous and wide landscapes.
Sprawled acrossturquoise rays across the extensive region are lush
prairies,the sea of grass outside region in China, Innerdune-filled
deserts, and scatteredmy window, I sigh andMongolia is a
self-villages.breathe deeply. Its hard to believe thatgoverning
area with a After living for more than a yearjust yesterday I was
battling throngs ofamongst the crowds and noise ofshoppers, raucous
traffic and lifelesshigh ethnic minorityEastern China, Id been
longing tosmog in Beijing - while before me nowpopulation - little
surprise head northwest to soak up the promisestretches an ocean of
prairie met by that its largely cut offof vast horizons and nomadic
cultureblue skies in Inner Mongolia. from the world. in Mongolia -
but a local Chinese Twinkling stars pile up on the inkyfriend
suggested that I might just findhorizons, ending in a Milky Way
moreit here, right inside Chinas borders.vast than I ever knew
existed. Outside,As one of five autonomous regionsSometimes the
most memorableits all grass and gentle slopes.There are in the
country, Inner Mongolia is amoments are had unintentionally, andno
lights. No trees. No buildings. Itsself-governing area with a high
ethnicthat is certainly the case tonight.empty, empty of
people.minority population little surprise When most people hear of
this place,that its largely cut off from the outsidethey think of
Mongolia, a separate world. Night in a Gercountry to the north of
China. But Covering some 457,000 square miles Were staying with a
local, ethnicallyIm in Inner Mongolia, part of the (nearly twice
the size of Texas), InnerMongolian Chinese family, whoPeoples
Republic of China and itMongolia spans roughly 12% of Chinasowns
several tents on a large patch ofboasts equally outstand