v. WW* The NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE AUGUST. 1953 Safari Through Changing Africa ELSIE MAY BELL GKGSVENOR Wiih $ Maps and 41 Wustniiioft*. 34 in Natural Color* BetoviEIe Brings Science to the Farm With IS Illustrations SAMUEL W_ MATTHEWS 12 in Natural Color* JOHN E. FLETCHER Mount McKinley Conquered by New Route 143 103 219 With 2 Majw mill 16 IIlnsTraiions BRAPKOKU WASHBURN Wildlife uf Mount McKinley National Park With 20 Illuatrationa ADOLPH MURIE 16 Pamiinji* in Natural Colors WALTER A. WEBER Hunting Prehistory in Panama Jun tiles 249 With Map and 13 in Natural Colors MATTHEW W STIRLING RICHARD H. STEWART Sixty-four Pages of Illustrations in Color _l M >
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National Geographic Magazine 1953 - January to December
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v.
WW*
The NATIONAL
GEOGRAPHICMAGAZINE
AUGUST. 1953
Safari Through Changing Africa
ELSIE MAY BELL GKGSVENORWiih $ Maps and 41 Wustniiioft*. 34 in Natural Color*
BetoviEIe Brings Science to the FarmWith IS Illustrations SAMUEL W_ MATTHEWS12 in Natural Color* JOHN E. FLETCHER
Mount McKinley Conquered by New Route
143
103
219
With 2 Majw mill
16 IIlnsTraiions BRAPKOKU WASHBURN
Wildlife uf Mount McKinley National ParkWith 20 Illuatrationa ADOLPH MURIE16 Pamiinji* in Natural Colors WALTER A. WEBER
Hunting Prehistory in Panama Jun tiles
249
With Map and
13 in Natural ColorsMATTHEW W STIRLINGRICHARD H. STEWART
Sixty-four Pages of Illustrations in Color
_lM
>
Vol. ( IV, No. 2 \V.\sML\i ,[n;\ August, 1953
!APMEC
JIT, 11 U- i»rrcntMifiiN^L > if 1
Safari Through Changing Africa
By Klmk May Bfctt Grosyknor
US
//'//// liinstrtttioni by Gilbert Gro$xettorfPrtsijeut, iWtiiaiutl (foe&Mpkk Swh'ty
AT ! OXXOC:K on j pmh-dark Jinu-/-V ary morning, ,i big rcrur*engined air
jl jL finer m«i an down at Kano in thr heart
of Africn. V\> hid Uurded the jtJxmt* the
evening before cm ihe trtdskirts of busy, cus-
mopoltUii Rome, 2.000 miles away.Now. before we could leave the cabin, a
tall Negro dressed in khaki conic aboard andpr.iyrd itr- j II with ::i iulw Uml. As .i parting
pjfi, the a irTifie stewardess gave us each a bos
of paludrine pills and some Mnmd advice: lake
one mull day jiml we wouldn't oilch malaria.
Then we stepped mtt into the night. Africa
wjm cold I A chill wind Mew From ihr dlKrrl
we had just down over, and I shivered as 1
stumbled toward the airport building.
It wju nearly 4 o'clock l>e!ore we reached
ibr home of Mr. Kennel h V. Maddocksu the
British Ki^irlrtit, whi rr were 1o slay while
in Rano But If Mr. and Mrs. Maddockswereupset by having >nic5l5 drop from the sky lit 4
in the nionunj;, they didn't show it. Theywclcumed us in their wrappers and gave us
hot tea and crackers to dispel the chilL Weuwd three woolen blanket*, on our herb—anda hot-water bottle besides.
Only the mosquito nets draped around us-
—
we biuml ihcm rverywhrre wr went in Africa-reminded us we were in "tropica]" Nigeria,
just 12 degrees north o£ ihe Equator (map,page 150)-
Why We Searched n Comincnr
This was the befrinninir, of a threr-roonlri
SOfiQQ-mile safari around Africa for my hus-
band. Gilbert Grosvrnor, and me.Tlie trip was partly a delayed celebration
for our golden wedding anniversary. Slore
important, it wits a search lor fresh material
and new idca> and authors fur I he NationalGhoghaphic Magazine.
Similar quests; in other years had taken us
to the ancient Inra ruins of Macho Piedmon a flight across the Andes in Peru; tlie
I'hiHy summits of China'- holy mountain, TajSlum, And of Japan s Fuji. Hawaii. Midway,ami Wake Iflands: every Province of Canada;Europe; every State of the United States; andtwo Russias, T^trLsi and Soviet.
Africa Stwlf was not wholly new to us.
Many years earlier we had visited Spanish
and French Morocco; we had drunk ira with
ji sheik and dined with :< pa*ha in the walled
city of Fes. the dinner served by Nubian fcirls
jingling with bracelets on arms mid jnkle*.
But ttu Africa wo were to sec now was a
continent where slaves, camels, prod mediansmen are disappearing. In their pLne^ «i*
ami cxpandinjE uct>cr.A]ihiL trnnUcrs. She w*t born
Id London Ml the 'tin"; *h*-n l'r M«!l v.ws dem»n•itraUne hi* rcrraili' intrated teJc|ib-Dse to iju^cn
\KcurU. Hit fir«t unnwtUntir pn»*AKr ratnc whenwbu hul a icw wcfk* old. «n the IteuV rttum
En til? Unfiled Si:ilrt. She was wwn whrn \he waifillipAT ccki*it whti htr tumOy aboarrl 4 coa^til *Muuilr»
off Xewfnimtltnnrf- l-ater ihr =ti3<ard In Krarift andIr.ily, rtavchu] in KjifcUiiri urvf| Noi way. and in Julian.
in was prc»mted to tfar KmprrwWhen MT» BYII ^« m (irr|int fiwl, birr dlsthv
Eiiiiiicd tiith^r pKudcnt r>£ Uit : hcsi ptonc-erij^
National Geographic Sftriety Thr hc(«rc, tun(utuir nuahiuul—Vuunc VUlhert Crmvenor— had Iwi n
madft wliwr of iu kittle internal. Bhc XAnoffAL' Gel*
cniAFiiD: -M/:..uihr.. jikI Inc Ehr next halt i rutnr.
and muTr unu (a devote hb Die tu jurthrrlnir Tlir
Soeirly'i |irn|(ri* anil puhTn aOnniMe* GoMvi'tinr has ulwsys lakrn n Ocep lntrfo.r In
The Sodttv** ai liviOrt, Shr de-ilmiiii itv fJuz, with fci
vilrj|T» of oiown. fr«-n. anil hl«er •ymhonitriR earth.
>ia, and shv. Sbc h±* read bundreus of tnajiuHcripU
foe The MAiea/lne ami rsamlnrd ihuu-Mntb of pluses
CM prooi and tern of tiKiuunrli ol |iholoicra|riii.
n MttfcW m m)Mw" Wmn$ \4(t
Chiefs of Nurlhern Nigerlu Gather at K-Ltluiai for the Opening "I Parliament
Xntcrfl*"* nrw cnntdituLion gives iU people *rr»1cr lelf-mlr. In N»rllirrn Ptuvlww tln-y nntw: il through u
HaiiMi nl Cliitfi ami an rttctivc Home u( Awrnhly. Brluw Chkfi in robes, turKaoi, and (Vxarn await the nrfttkm
Lff i. IL Lin hi
* The Aiitlmr*. "\Vindnw**hnppiniT in k;inn Market, Scans a Display of K-.ln Nut*Niftriam* cl«* l*ola nuts u Amcricum ch«\i tfiiui tlie vmilor (Sated) ipratb hi* hI«»tL an a mal Wind-borne
ilutf lianci IIU- log In tV rjbtanre, A tall Tuareg ve0> hh farr, r.mr'nnntnx in » male natotn o( hu trifjf.
US The Narion.il Geographic Magazine.
modern tocapitals—and, of course, airplanes,
which are the real taakabs of modern Africa.
All main the raid wind howled When weawoke, *e looked out the window at a view
a* Enjzibh as it was African We wctc in th*-
T-lritish official quarter, outride the walled
-«< thin of the eta rif Knn«> In liulc l-.'ii^i-n
garitem and Goyernmenl-o'wned house* are
oral and iiio<krii. The officials art- ottlj
temporary residents and must move, mil at]
their belonging* even when gptai their
biennial vacations. They never know what
house they'll unite buck to since houses are
extremely scarce in Nigeria.
< .1 1 1 r ]iri'U v . onng hostes was also English,
the (laughter of the well known scientist. Sir
John Russell. Before her marriage- ^he had
been London editor of lhr Junior firitrinnicts.
The Maddocfciiey extensive library on Africa's
Uinh. animal*, and people showed their deep
taleretf in the country Mr. MadducL* helpMgovern, Tfccir books alan helped \is identify
Mricnn bird* and beasts we were lo M&As «Km as we had finbhed breakfast, Mr.
GrosvtDor, Mr. and Mrs. Jladdocte. ami I
started out to explore old Kaiio. From read-
"uitf, I knew thai its history went back nt least
a thousand year*. Ii was a caravan cross-
roads i" medieval times and today h ^till a
busy trulin^: rente:.
Dust Storm from the I>c%ert
As we drove through the city, wc got mrr
first latfe of the harmaltan, the dry, all-en-
veluping dust -laden wiml which sometimes
blows in from the Sahara. 1:or the next sev-
eral day? it stung our eyes and faces and gave
a weird, unreal effect to everything we saw.
It* murky ha*c colors all my recollections of
Kamr it abo colored many of the pictures
my husband took of the city I pages H7.I49, 153, and 1 5ft).
We went through one of thr entrances cut
in Kano*s massive 40-foot thick mud wall*,
bulh centuries HO, ami quickly losit motives
hi a maze nf winding* narrow streets. Moresurprising to mc were the bouses thiii lined
the streets: they were built o: mud! They
have palm-trunk supporu lor roof* anti door-
ways. A few were whitewashed or painted;
some of the fonder ones were decorated with
intricate patterns. Many were getting new
layers of mud and native cement.
Spouts of tin or terra ruttn jutted like fcuns
from the ruoltops.
"They're gutters," explained our sigbt-see-
iiig host, "to Cftrry off the flood* of the rainy
season.
-It's the dry time now," he cimtinued,
"when careful hou^ehnlnVr* do their repairing
and remastering. Tf they don't net around to
it before the rains come, I heir cla> wait-, w ill
eventually melt down and they "II find tbrm-
ietvet IhJnjc in p mud puddle!*"
We got not of the car at Kano's big. hustlinp
market plate and were quickly swallowed up in
a noisy crowd. Customers and merchants
elbowed each other ami «*. There were tall,
ebcoiy Hauios and lighter Fullid with bearded
foce.s. Everywhere small naked ehildren w:ui-
dernl. ,ilon« with tnquirinc griatSr climkcyBt
*heep. and thicken*.
Livestock was only part of an aoiazhi?
variety of men-hamiLe, We saw fine leather
gOOdfl, metal Jewelry, and bright, biMrre jirint*
nudging empty l>ottles ami old ra/or Mmlcs
We also saw—and srncNrd—dried fish: ne.M
In freshly slaughtered meal lay piles of grain,
salt, awl spices. Kola tints, chewrd f»c lift,"
5eemeil to br popular (page T J 7), and so were
i usnietTi used by local belles i" dnrken riu-ir
eyelids and hennn »heir noila and hamKMany of I lie wares werr >{iiead out i»n the
hare ^rnund, with only u tiiulrh or bamboorover to keep off the sun. Ofhem we» dis-
played Infshop5." rows of cavclike mud slaU>.
Desert Itidert Wear Indigo Cilnth
Kano i* famous for its cloth, woven of lo-
cally Rrown cotton, and foT it? brilliant blue
dyw breweil fnwn Ihe wild Inciigu plant. Wesaw both w the market, lo open vat? dyers
were dipping and rinsinE lenathv »\ white CM-Urn cluth which came out m shndes of blue
ironi pole to deepest indijto (page? I5S, 150),
War hy, cither workers beat the rruilerfal to
«Kv it a metallic luster.
We siMV veiled Tuareg horsemca wearing
|-ol»eS "f lhi> i|erp-l.iliH* cloth. OtheT pfrce*
inieht add allure to the wardrobes of Kana'5
linrem favorites. Later, in another Nigerian
city, I recognised tm' typical nvelallic blue
»a the 1uri>aas of prominent native rulers.
We ?*aw alriHisi no wnmen Rano's ladies
are kept well hidden from the profane gaze
of outsiders.
Vet chiinge is comtng. An elrineotar}'
scliool has been established for the knii^-ncfi-
lecleil Moslem girls. It is atti nded by mem-ber? of the Krnir'5 own houtehulil. The faces
of the few W4>men we did see were uncovered,
despite the fact that this is a Moslem city.
There wa? even nn ultramodern touch while
we were there—a strike by Nigerian railway
We sfl-w manv p\h»inid- ii Jejtsi fret
high made entirely of ba^zs of peanuu await-
ing transportation tooth tjiai^e Theyare a leading export of the couniry: others are
tin. palm kernels and palm oil. cocna, hitbs
;md skirts Ah*»eethifr. Nigeria'.* exjxirts tout-
ed more than $j SO,CXK).000 in \*i$lf b forciuu
trnrle built up during the last 40 years.
(Trxt tonlinwd ,»t pa{t 154)
+ Market-bound Ni&eriim* Enter Knno "f" Nigeria'* Largest Opun-oir Mart;
Through Massive Adobe Gutt the Author Shop* for Cloth
KfiiiD tioasti i written bfeuorx' mtmthnc bark n«riy SprjwHni! K,m» rnarlirt auram -0,mo |itooIl- cLiilv
1,000 years. Todav the city U BOftbttS NbtfffrV Mfuhutit-s uftKit or in tulla oi tb.it-cb or mud, hawkIropuli*. with lC^Oflrj fwtipb. A hisi'h rami null ptacnl an Innniir Varictv m| warn. The cKirth. *ak-«t1UJi (Mrl» 15 patci encircles Ihc cldtoi wcilon. Donkeys ami (ruoto a jitirt in Haiwi, native tOOfW. TTw MMltfrt
prili-ttrEafiF, liul few vrrhlclrt, may usr ihU |xiri/il lind> a lapccml comfortable In t>piciilM
Peanut I*)Tninids Kisc in Kunu'a Murktfl Pluvv, A Rail Strike Delayed Shipment Snath
M run'**! tunr jwanuQ |VHir Into Kami Irani ill nvrr nnrlliini NterriiL Ifto laxlu to n unset, odp to A
lurnun orrirf Yhr li»t*1 ctftp Itt x fiowl ymu Lt im>i< than Jiou,*OOQ tore. In Lb? rnartft pl-ur mnn ttturh
them ti&g on liac, climbine thr odes of the fiyrumtrllike .«trpt with th* h*avy »ttts luiiimvil on ILuit hcark-
Frnm KniKi we were scheduled to fly to
Zaritt, 85 miles to liie southwest.
Airline tickete? "See the *ky maiden," wewere told.
'Hie sky mjirli-n lurried out to hp a hearty,
tmsom Englishwoman who ntanuued the \V«tAfrican Airways Corporate »n nlfict in Kano.
Slit* wnirlii be ffliirl to *ell 115 tickets In /aria
or cut*a tie a charter plane for us r she said, but
l he traj fine-Minn was: (%ou)d the pilot find
Zaria? On the trip north thai ninniing Use
luwn luni been i.nmpletelv hirMen hv the hnT-
mattan murk. and he hadn't been able in land.
We decided to chance it, and mir tuck held.
We rlew through and over a dense veil nf dust
all the way. but when we. reached Zaria f!
cleared enough for ns to land.
WUai Price for die Truth?
"You were lucky in make it.'* said our hint,
Mr CiMirnd B Williams, HritisJi Resident at
Zarin. Mi- wife, an Anwrrican ftM from Bos-
ton, told us that our sjn|ik nf ih- Ii.irm >rt.in
was really a pretty mild one,
•'Sometimes,' " *ht said, "we can't *ee Across
the street for the dust. It even blows nut to
sen and covers passing aliip*."
The ancient \|i»t|em rily uf Zaria. like so
much uf Africa, i* proudest of its modern
louche*. Our hosts showed us a new prirrthnu
plant width puhltehr* a daily newspaper in
the Rgl&l language. 1 Uiuttuju it* title,
printed next to ihe price, was ;mmMng It
U also tadiquitahfe: 'The "IVuih l| WnrthMure Than a fenny."We saw ,1 missionary hospital where—-a real
s%fl of progress!— native women are vaunt-
ing out ol their home?; to serve a* nursed.
Kounded by ihe f'hirrch Mte^nary Society
and run hy a wimvin rli«tor, I lieodora Mp«F.R.C.S., this hospital is rated oJie of die best
in this area.
Nidcriun* l-canr Sul i-r5u\ eriiniwiif
Hul the real event of our visit was the
historic meeting, in near-by Kaduua. of the
first elective parliament in unilhern Nigeria
(page Mu>. It r-Kik place in a shining new
wJntL* parliament bviFdiri-a. lanjurrl Hall,
pamed for Lorr] I.uRard. Hi* arttc.tr eulilled
"'Hie New Km; fish I'mviatt of Northern
Nigeria. puUIhFwmI In the Xovember. l°CM.
issue of the N^ttoxal GrooBAnuic Maaa-xink. Tva5 one reanm for our stoptaver in ihl*
interest inn ciuntry.
Wc watched emirs, sultans, and Irihal rhief-
tida< rtre<*j^l in flowing *llk and .sal in roije*
lake ihe i»uih of oftke and swear fealty to
Satan Through Changing Africa 155
I lie British Cmyen in northern Nigeria's
Up^H'l buir-r ihr ll'-L.-f i.( I hlefi. N.I Eric
Thump'-tnue (familiarly called l^ruli&Uinc'1
),
ihrn Lieutenant Governor of the NorthernProvince*, prcsiiled over ihtf ceremony ln;uu
thronelike choir.
The 1951 constitution provides lor north-
ern Nigeria 4 regional parliament somewhatlike England*. The House of Chiefs is rough-
ly equivalent to tSwr House of Lords; the lower,
or Housr nf Assembly > memlwrs «d which wesaw sworn In ihr Mlowinfx day, like the
House of Commons. Members of the UwerHouse are elected by ibe Nigerians them-selves, except for a few ip|K>inted representa-
tives oi the Briiish Government in Nigeria,
'Hie congress at Kaduna would pass laws
(or the Northern Provinces only. Later, like
the oilier Iwm I'mviinrs, tJiey would send
member* to .1 natUmil House of Krpresrrit*
ntrvos nl Lapus. the capital of the whole uf
Nieena-In their dress the Nigerian dfanilarfes far
outshone the Ilritish al the swearing-in cere-
monies. Sninp of the chiefs' robe* were al-
most tjllndine—heavily embroidered silk of
bright green, white, yellow, blue, or Invender.
The chiefs were nearly all tall, vrrikJng-
looklng men. many well over six feet, Mostwore enormous Uir'vms nf different designs.
Spectacle* (or Decoration Only
Looking down from the wfToc' Haltery, 1
ruitked that, the chief* harl on hliRe riarfc-
rimraed spectacles.uHarl eves?" I a*fce.[ Mr .Williams
"No/1
he smiled. **Thwe people have sn-
|wU sfchl The tgfaees are for rlir»nil> .
"
Then I noticed thai as each I'hirf went lo
Sinn the register, he pushed the Blisses np onhis Forehead and looked under them
AftflT ihr ceremony f met the Sultan ofSnkoto. head of the Islamic church in Xiceria;
also several emirs. As we shook hands, I
wondered how long It would lie liefore someof their secluded Moslem women would be per-
mitted to *hare in Use new political freedom.
"Many of the representatives of the lower
House are from |ing:in tribes/' Sir Eric said,
when we had lunch with him and members of
bis nufF -it i he British Residency. "Othersare Moslems, and still others are Christians,
One of Xiperia's hta problems ts ihlfi diversity
uf peoples in religions, custom*, and evenlanguage."
Since our visit, hitter polflknl rivilry he-
iwei'li Mo>lriu and iion-Mo*dem has caused
nntrnjr and bloodshed in Nigeria-
In Kmluna we -laved with a brilliant British
scientist. Dr. T. A. M. Nash. For 25 years
Dr. N'ash has l>ren die nf the lenders in the
nghl against Africa's Greatest H'ourge, the
tsetse fly. This small Insect, found only in
Africa, lias devastated vast section* of the
continent, for it spreads human and animalforms of the dread disease trypanov»mi^U, or
slw [-in
-
r sickness.-
For generations sleeping sickness ha* struck
terror across troprcal Africa. Ft has killed
hundreds of thousands of Africans and someKurojJeans, wiped nut whole vi [lares, anddriven farmers from their hud.
Twine My Hlighrs Va*r Area*
Today the fly still blocks prouress in an
area in Africa bigger Than the whole Coiled
Slates. Vast ureas o( fertile farmland and pas-
iure.s lie empty and deserted Though in part*
of Africa modern dnijts have brought sleej>in«
sk'ktiess in humans under cunlnil, rj.H'oin.
nn normal f* fcrm, si tit destroys livesim k andbeasls of burden, A cow, an ox, or n horx*
bitten tr>- an mfecied fly wastes ftwtty amiasitally dies.
"In Nlgola.*1
Dr. .Nash ^id, "mosI (armrnhave carry their form pmdiur td market ontheir head*.™
Much of the country's heaviest farm labor,
including plowing, hivirn:. and hauling, is
done by hand, to a lanre extent woman's.[ mw nuiny tsetse flics in L>r. Nash's labu-
ratnry. where he breeds them for experimental
purposes and lo study ll*eir ha1»it« and find
out how host to attack theni. Tbey l»w»k
innocent ennugn, nilher like our own housefly
esrept for Uieir wiru?s, which foM across their
h&ctti when at rest. But Dr. Nash keeps themcarefully locked up, with metal screen.? ondoors window*, and CBj*es, Tliese* inciden-
tally, were the only screens we saw in Afric;i.
anrl thev wm Used to keep Hies in. not nnt.
TseUr llitra are *tran^e in=ects. They newrdrink water mid nVe entirely on blood, so that
.i whole ^tableful of guinea pips has t* ^ In-
kept to feed those in the laboratory. Thefemale fly produce": only one egg &i a time,
which she I*»ih hutches and nourishes inside
her body with milk Rlamls until it is born.
Mother T*ct*c*4 ,fBabie*M R^.rn Alive
The muthiT isctse fly frfves birth to a tiny
white larva much as a woman grvrs birth to
a baby.The larva immeifiiitety buries it?e!i an inch
or more under the tr,round, where It turns info
a pupa fchrj'ialisj and some week* later into
a fiv.
One mating suffices The femaTe fnr life.
Starting nboui 20 days after motinc. she pro-duces one such larva every 10 days during her
life span, imuully aboui three mi*Uh*.The y<imiR tstLse fly isnol iuirmful at first.
Not until fl Idles an infected person or normaldoes it pick up tryprtncisomes, the parunites
C MIHUI »i»HHr*i
+ OirW Let SlKjppioi! ("in in Their Heads
KaiKi ihildicn Irani In usr> bead burdens alrtiftnl a*
won as lhr> ran fcafk Good ptnttirr m a by-product
erf ihr pnicilw. Girls wear vwtumimom cloths, while
ch# Ihj\ -JiulU in a lulricliiili.
T Bttf or SmiilL Your F'tr/. Size It IK-rc
A* soon jii *i»ki. many of Llstw briftlil term in Kan»h-1-.il.i! Hill tibJippeMT li«-iu'al.h turbaiu. MujJjc vl felt,
ihf mup-Riiine ua|* help krqi ckilh loUUfrom dipping.
A boy Birjillct a tray oS cakn
Safari Through Changing Africa 157
ihiii caune sleeping rftiufas. Mill from then
on it w ibtti*crou* a* limit as il live*.
There are II diflerenl varieties or species
of tseise ily in Xinert* ; socih* feed chilly on
men, and other varLettei prefer animals.
The tsetse fly has « *harp proboscis, re-
sembling a tiny hypodermic needle, projecting
straight out from its head. When the fly lights
• in a man, this proboscis pierces the skin, in-
ject.* a niKhbUiod-ckitiing sufcianre, and then
draws li|i hicI. At the some lime it may deposit
trypanosornes in the bloodstream.
I>r. Nash, who *tl|I h iml ruer
jzetic after 25 years of Unite against the rTy,
told Us about the work he ami other 51 ientbl*
.irr doing tn bring il under control
One weakness of some specie,* of tsetse fly.
hi* explainer], is that they must haw shade,
They breed and live in thir.k undergrowth.Back m the tV.ifT* Ur Nn>*i research showedthat by clearing only lhe undergrowth iiiul
hushes aWji streams the rfverine tsetse couldlie eliminated. This partial clearing methodwas then employer! an a larue scale in the
\nciiuu district. In a report on the project
Sir. Nash wrote:
" Attention was first focused on the \tichau
district of Zaria Province in 1954, when Dr.
X, E. \X. Andrrwn found that unc-tWfd nl
the population had sJerpimr sickness, and thni
in some harnfets hall the population wereinfected."
Today tJve cleared ansi I* a corridor in
northern Nigeria 70 miles long and ID miles
wide. Here 60,000 |HHplr and their (iveMock
BvAi hoallhy and fly-free. Old Anchau. tin- itt~
tsinns chief city, has been cleaned up, and newvillage* haw l>een bttOl.
How to Move n Spiiii
With dry humor Dr. Nash tells some ni thedifikullies of this ID-year t tearing and rebuild-
ing job:
When we First started tleariue around
Anchan, the presence of sacret I tree* in thestreams caused much trouble, especially in
one village area* The village, head would sud-
denly eiw out chat the work was reaching aplaee where any man would rite who enteredthe prove, the labour jmnj!.* would nut turn upnext day and work would ronw to a standstill.
"The following method soon abated this* nui-
sance. The village head, who was also theearthly leader of the spirit world, would lie
interviewed in frnnt of all hi* Debate, andafrer much preamble fnhf that the existenceof these spirits was causing us much trouble,
that unfortunately Europeans were finite In-
capable of making spirits change their abodes,but that it waa rumoured ihat he had this
amazing power: me could not believe It po$-sible for any man to 1 1> r such a thins, and 1 tin-
sidered it to fie all lies, but, if be really hadthese iiovu-r-. would he kfndly remove t J te
spirits on lo a neiirhboiirirtg fa il J,
"Invariably the old man would turn up next
day saying that be had wrestled with [he spirit-
all night, and thai finally they had agreed to
live un the itoired hill. Kveryone ins hnppy.the old mart's prestige was enhanced, and weK>it the streams cleared.
Eventually the work grew into Car morethan elearUj.' and ueue. extermination. \*tribesmen were resettled in cleared areas,
whole new romrn unities had to lie planned(rum the gruund up. Dr. XasJi descruV* the
nw village of TakaLitiva near Vuhau:"The roadways, all* 100 feel wide, act a*,
firebreaks, fur which there Is a irreat nc-etL
Pink MmvvvIa .mil Pure \S »it»;r
"All the mail? in Takalafiya haw beenplantevl up with avenue* of niihoyany. nuui-
iroes. das, jnd the pink-tluwered Cassia: a
stasHtred .spacing rate of 75 (eel has been uw*din Laying out the avenues . . .
/'
Careful phinhEnu aUo tttmt into locatinR
and iH^uirijE sanitary fresh-water wTells and in
I>tnvi(Jin>! drainage and elementary sewage dfe-
DOjnL A iww elementary .<chiH»l has lieen
IjuBt, and a 12-acre mnrtel farm demonstratesnew method* umJ new crop*, imtudiiig wiy-
beuns and frtuts.
AiJprcipriareJy, lhe town's name, Takalarlva.
meanv "Walk in Health/'
Hill Africans will not wnlfc surely in health
until SOrae way has been found to control
oagaha in broader areas. New medicines are
being tried against ihr trypam«i.>mes them-selves I'aKle fn the iseiic Wit are being,
given iujiilions of antryEide. Bui, *a lar, it
lias provided only a short-term immunity.*The biggest reRemiirs of nagana parusiie-
left in Africa now are wild animals in thejungle. Many of (hem are tolerant to thedisease but carry the bifraMte* in their hlmwl,
like lyphokl Mary/ The tseL<e q bites
one of Them, picks up the parasites^ and is
dangerous from then net.
Dr. Xash told us that in cerlain limited
areas where il l< wsential to reclaim land fromthe woorllntid tsetse Icir Increasing herd* of
faille, a policy of nam? destruction is ad-
vicated liecause these tsetse disappear if there
is no game.".Such a measure naiurally brinje a siami
ni opjio>itiiin from conservaiionisU. natural'
Is is, hunters, and many others," be sakl e but
in Mich circumstances on ethical grounds manm ust tome first."
words "f I hi' scrvke. There were bulhuKnightinaahre, and Mime more. u> sweet ami
melodious a c hoir m> I have ever heard.
Skyscraper* Ruilf on Gold
Three thousand nriles bnutheasl of medieval
Kano lie* Johannesburg, a modern city bu ill on
the prutits (nun the Cnion of South Africa's
fahulom gold miner- la a swift Krilish plane
we covered the distance in 15 hour*., slopping
mm ly twice,
\\r tombed first at Brazzaville, the sultry
capital of French Equatorial Africa, and, dur-
ing World War It, headquarurs for the Free
Krcncb. Al I.jvlngftinne, in Northern Rho-
desia, we landed again, this time In a tropical
downpour. We He* "n in a storm that tossed
our big plane as if it hail Urn a small bout.
On the long drive to town from the Johan-
nesburg airport we frequently" passed great
pyramid? id r.trih rising from the ground. TJte
man-made mountains are the gold mine dumpsi hut are Johannesburg* trademark. Less
rhan 70 year* ngu neither they nor the diy
existed. There was only a treeless veld here
m ISS6, when the world's rfch^l gold lode
was opened.
Since then both trees and cities have sprung
up along the whole C 50-mile Mretch ot the
treasure-bearing Wit watersrand, ' Ridge of
White Waters." Mines with local headquar-
ters In Johannesburg produced about S4CW-
000.000 worth of sold in \9>Zfi
JohanresJnifg i> now third only to Cairo
and Alexandria among Africa's cliks and ?S
the largest south of tin? Sahara. Its streets
are lined with skyscraper offices, streamlined
apartment budding*, and luxury hotels, Pros-
perous nuntne companies and woild-famous
banks alternate with smart shops, theaters,
and cafes. Nearly a million people now live
in Johannesburg, and it t> still growing.
Johannesburg, or aJbT«M|» a* tht" South
Africans call it. looks and feels youthful.
Trees line iu avenues: 113 suburbs bloom with
flowers lis 5.800-foftl elevation makes the air
rem dear mid bracing, the sunlight sparkling.
Yet (he cfly reaches farther down than ii
does up. Three jtold mines Inside Johannes-
burg's municipal area go more than 9,000 feet
below the surface. Only the most modernscientific techniques and air cooling make It
possible for men to work so deep underground.
Johannesburg'?, gold ban produced more than
skystampe rs and modern machinery. Four
thousand students nt the new fnivcfslly id
tin- WItwat.ersr.iiid are takina courses in the
arts and sciences. mrdi< im\ po-a,i*ruduate law,
and engineering. The university was ope tied
only a little mure than half a century ago as
a tet bnicnl school
We ate a pleasant lunch with the uniwr-
sity's president. Dr. Humphrey R, K a ikes,
and T)r John H. WeFiin«loi), dean of the Fac-
ulty pt Science and professor of geography.
Oli "the terrace of the Country Club. Dr. Wel-
lington had visited the National GeographicSociety in Washington. l>. I'., several monthsearlier. l)r. R.iikcs. In addition to his work
as a scientist, distinguished him*ell in the
ICAF during World War I; later he liecarue
chief instructor of the Oxford University Air
Squadron.
During lunch we enjoyed the beautiful
view from the terrace almost as much ax tfce
food Next we were shown through the \\ it-
watersrand library.
We .saw a fascinating collection of nnips,
diaries, and oilier dotummt> .dl dealing with
the opening up of Africa, And again J wasstruck by the nrtvnr.u of ihis country we were
visiting. Some of the papers, telinifl of cv|)cdit]ons into wild and unknown region*
urouud Lake Nuaani and the Zambezi River,
were f*igneil by Uftvid JLnrin^tfuie.
"You * .in *ee hr>w recent these dLscowries
were," said our host, |H«ntins5 I f> another o(
the >iznatures. ''This man was mv grand-
fatter.
Sione f1rat% \larkii Landing hy Uia*
The libniry's priz^r possession is a great
deal older. It b a 7-fotil stone cross raised
b by the Portuguese explorer W trtholtK
meu Dios on the southeast coast of Africn.
Iiia.i, lot.tkin.e; for a passage to India, wasthe first European to salt around the tip of
i he cwiTineni. He never got la India. Mi-
nim rebelled anl lorccd him to turn buck: so,
as evidence thai he hud jft>ne this far. he landed
and raised the cross.
"For tentucie* Portuguese writers men-tioned Ihi? Dins cross/' lh R.iilns told us
l lun it was heard of no more. Not until
193ft did It come light again. One of our
research fellows found its fragments buried in
the sands n0 miles rwirtlieast of l
Jort hlj/jibcrli
1 1 was broufthi here and pieced together."
Three and a half centuries passed betweenDlas's tir.-il lalirJukc .mil the opening up of the
southern part of Africa.
•Sm- T:k ii!ir- Tl.-.t in.) Dbmoiiik Uulli*
hy W. Kobcrt Moore. Nathivm t«rn<;MAeinr \|tc,\.
Mix, Dwmfcrr.
(T'A-t conlinufti r*i jae/ 177)
* l-inty* Tt:«r iliu P.nli 1. 1 <ht? Author**Cur in Kruiior National 1'nrJc
South Afrim'i imrrmnt Knlttr NnUnnai Puck, olmoit
ft din .11 Mj^icIium-IU, Irrmi *lth wildlife (pop***
H.V \HA*. Llmu. atcuHcimriJ f<v on. oltrift laj* In themnili lUu^bly mnlr= hold |hcir nruimrf « the autu-miilulc iliivr^ ftWK tuwjiii tbent
y T.cn \Yjlk* \wa) vviili Ruilul Dignity;
Hi* Friend I* Too La&y lo MowPuri; tioiu ito mil mlA-rk nutcmintiHn. Thin drowsy
julr, sorjscti from u rvtont fcfll, Ikitctl chop» and paw*jmi rullrtl In the ilu;t Wtr tinuse cull Unru libit*
lad riWUU finally $C6v« Ihrm uiiUr The pMritrmpJiii
wire iruuli thr&ugJi jn u|*n cur window.
t t.t-.iu,ilu lli-t*o |f>|
Pouring Breaker* Sweep llic SuuJs of Mui/enhurtt Itcucli near Cape TownMubenbrrp** jflriiTnlnir itrand in'iiriy JO miici Inn*, lin on the raitern *irfr w( Caju- I
ji juii'-uU Tbrrc Jbc Arullu
Cumnt warm* KaUr. ttjy. S*-i* «n tnleki ihi II Unlit Ude. uhtw ilu cfaul Hwifiiitk Curri'hl Ifo**.
Vacationer* Bathe in ihc Surf or Siroli Bviicuih * Cloud tews SkyTli fnrr 1910 MtrizcnhtrFjf bctuti wa* an (Hji-cf-tbr-uav *pul with icw vf*|tur>. MtnU-rn tTniupmiatifm rhanstitfl || |tfi>
j I iu-.i ttnjf Trwirt <rimiinj by (Iiuu^idiK Airimr I be Smith African summer #ta*)qn, Ttoivrnbi-r ihrouich Marcb
.
I
3 :
I
3
Clifton* Sun-ivA»hcd Bungalows DimtiiJ ii Sleep I lilUidc Above (lie Aliunde
Sca^itir Clfcitoii In fUbuitwn Cape Tusvn u a plate uf >v*r-iouml roSlfcnw, Wmst ten^icrutiifus rarc3y efip below
lowers the carat sharp peak uf Lion's Headand the range of the Twelve Apostles: rpaee
174).
Where Mighty Oceans Meet
Pleasant liomes like these, lovely reports,
and lishiiu* villaues loir all thr miles nf 1 reaches
on Adieu's southern penirutib, ending in the
fanmtqj dipt of Guud Hope and Cape PointIpagelHl).MnM ol thr reports and fishuis villages
lie on the protected east coast, facing False
Bay. which if near the Indian Ocean side.
There the water is warmed by the tropical
\Kulhas Current, Ot the Atlanta side the
cold Rengucla ("urrrnl chills the heaches.
Not for from our hotel wr rame to a hugeswimming pool built along the very edge 'of
thr open ocean.
"It* not only rouph and • nM nut thru-/'
a Cape Towner told us, pointing toward the
tea,,"Imii yau're likely 10 ou-r t a shark/*
Cape Town is the ohfc-st important perraa-
nenl white settlement in Africa south of the
Kquator. While we were there, the city wasgetting ready a big e\|>o#ii]on ground to» cele-
brate its 300th birthday. It was founded byI he I Hit ch East India Company some 30 years
after the Dutch West India Company hail
sent settlers to New Amsterdam ami Iwvujihl
Manhattan from the Indians.
When you talk to C'a|ie Tuwners about his-
tory, you hear again The name of Pins. Theytrll you about East Indiamen thai -ailed
armind the Cape for loO year* alter Diai.
Their rrrws in too much of a hurry to gel
to the Orient. or house again, to mq]i hen-.
OhCC in a while a ves^rl wuuld jiausr l»rieJl>'
for waier.
Then, its lft47. a l>utch ship wn$ wrecked,and the survivors srramblvd ashore at whatis now Table Bay. Prom a salvaged packetof seed* the*' grew vegetables tn keep them-
selves alive till rescue came.
From n St'td Pucker, n City
The incident gave the Dutch East India
< !t»npany an klejt. la April, 1652. a companysurReim. Jan van Kiebeecfc, w-a* landed at the
site with aliout tOO setters. His orders wereto plant a vtrgrlahlp garden i\tr the henefii of
the scurvy-tiiTden seamen of the East Indies
traffic.
From the sailor*;' "Tavern H the Seas"Cape Town itrew iato one uf the world 's fam-ouk ports. T'«b)* it tin' capital of Cape of
Good Hope Province and the leirklativc scat
of the uidqseadeni brabb Hominron. the
Union of South Afrka.In the lieart of town, now numbering half a
million. 1 lie stalely Hinises uf Parliament fare
the |2-a.rr Public i Tardea* (page 166). Andwhere V.in RirlweckVvegrtaLles twice grew. I
siwa show collection of thousands of variiCties
of flowers, shrubs, and tree3 fnun all over thr
world.
Among them ;ue many ?|)ecie5 of /Vtuctrnlbn
eucalyptus aa«l wattle, tried out a» part <if
South Africa's extensive forest-plan tine pro-
Brum. "First thins you know, we'll have moreAustralian trees hi South Africa than they
have In Australia." a Cape Towner lauKhivj,(ttre make mine props out of eutalypiuV'
he added, "and tlie watllr bark iuppons ourbig taxminp busing."
But if South \:>ira fmp<.»n5 some of lin
lrw>. she more Iban pays b>r tlieni with ibc
nativr flowers she expom. So ahuntlanl andbeautiful are the Cape Province'* wird flowers
Lhat theaiea has been ijIIkiI the florid prov-
ince." Flower.* originally native to South\frica .ui' imw tottiv.oed in ^aniens all over
the world. Among rhem are some of the love-
• Set "Busy Currttf—thr Cape «f Good Uapa." byW RAt«f] M««rr. Nttki>M. Ucocuueacir M^.;\xwt,Xuau.i1. I'MJ.
Snuth A idea's Pnnic Ministers Live in Groore Schuur. Once Ocil Rhode*'* HomeCecil Hhmlr* vrilkA Uronlr Munir. his "Bur B*m" 1o future prfanr minfetcr* nf thr Vmitn n\ Sciuth
AfrifR, Ihmish Ihr I limn ««HC w» noi ytl fnrrntcl when he %\M in l«03. Thr oridnal irructurr. built
by early Dutch wolrr- iur mum (torm*. Inarm! in Rhmlr* tad it rebuilt with JO roomn. Ijui imlv
Iwd Ujlhi lil> uwn Uillilutt. nit Irani a tfhKlr mini 1 W»'rk »i marble*. i> .n t il I ihrir.
lie*t species of gladiulu,*, Inhclin. ^ernninm,
rnnricnltl and live ulkt lily; African violets
air among our musi popular house, phmt* *
When the Mayor of Cape Town, the Hon*orable Frit/ Iniiinenbere. (save u*f a rvrrption
at City Hull, we noticed hi* rooms were pnn-
rirrl in it handsome Itehi-bmwn wwl beau-
tifully carved aad rubbed in a satin finish.
Stinktvood Makes Fine Furniture
"What kimJ ..f wood i< that.'" I ad»(J.
IVs Minkwitod.'" &uM the Mayor wJt sot
the name bvCAUdX ft rriilly Minks when it'*
first cut. 11*5 bwn user! fur fine Furniture
and decoration from ihe very bejuumn^, hut
It's t:eitifii! 5CJirtr now and very expensive."
Thr an httcesure of ("ape Town s older
houses, colonial Hutch .inil Brltfah Vuinrbn,rn alb ihe diy* l>ut<li and Knulihh pait.
From here un I found Hie infliiem cS; of both
countries *in>rtff .il] ihniujih South Africa,
Many dialect* $ft *pokrn In Cape Town,but the I wv> official langiuiffes arc Kngfch and
Afrikaans. 1hr Litter a nwidi'fied form of Mulch.
Both uxe LiU!*hl In schools and universities
and are required of ,i!J Ciuveninient office-
holders. They appear together on everything
from 5tarn 15 and Mreet signs to airport regu-
lation* BOC dinner menu*.
Smith Africa Iiun yet in wive the politkal
and <<K laI pn>hfrni5 rwinR [mm it< rnisture mmany racea. colors, and rrliaiuns* In Tapetown ? greets, modern South \fri<an.^nf Brit-
ish. Dutch, nnd Frrnth anresfty hru*h shoul-
ders with native Uamitw and Zulu5. anil with
Mahiy.-fi and lnduui&.
Mo«juef and minarets rise above the Mos-
lem quarter a? reminders of Malay slaves
bfouithl !n tin* Rest wave* of scttlenwnl. Tur-
ItLtnrd Ilidiynj? pass veiled Malay women ami
Cape Cotourtft a mixture so lachlened that
Mime ?etm while.
In all South Africa, in fact, the vital Sta-
Itstlcfl tell a si^nirlciint -u-ry: 2,600.000 whites
and IO.O00.U0CJ native Africans and other dark
rareiTo me. pari* of Cape Town had a dbtinct
Bnglifh flavor. I hrard inany fJxtord accent*;
I ate Rnsli^b ptiddiiitf: and ;i|jovt all I rlrauk
tea -tea for breakfast, lea at I0:.*0 r ten for
•See "Tin W»rM in Y-iur tMfimf hy V HCumpu Xtruix.u {taumu-uir SiuiAo&L Juty, VH7
Safari Through Changing Africa
lunch, tea at 4 o'elnrk—tea. lea everywhere^Fortunately, We like l;wt.
To the ea>1 arid nurth of Cape Tiwn the
Knyli-tli influence i.-- lew dominant, Hiving
pine* to Ptttih and French. This Is winecountry. Here the- niuuntnlii slope* and fer-
tile valleys aTe covered with vineyard*, andMime id the wine- are world-famous.
Land of Vineyards Mountains
The Dutch settkd here in the J frsa's andfound the rolling, sunlit countryside lileiil for
grcmiiu! grapes, A Jin U- Liter an influx «f
"French Huguenots added their centuries-old
wiiic-making skill.
I'aarl is the tenter of today's wine andbrandy Industry. A hospitable town, it
drowsed in the »un as *r rtcove along its 7-mile
"Main Street. Despite the IhHch name, the
whitewashed walls, tall. pointed cypresses,
ami talk of gmpes and vintages made me think
of southern France.
The first importune vineyard* in the area
were planted by Shium van der Slel, one of
the pioneer Dutch uuvrniurs. We vislied his
home, ftroot Constantia, which has been rc-
>tnied iih a museum, [t is a coolfcwhite man-
sion with curved and curlicued tape Uutchgables shaded by stately old oaks.
Ln the; rear of the house we saw dark, cave-
like rooms without windows, once used asslave quarters. Here the slaves were linked
up at night. Near by ran a stream wherethey washed iheit feel when It came time tu
trample out the grapes.
Van der SieJ's vineyard.* art *till producing.
The Sunn African Government now operates
I be Grout Cunstantia homestead ;ls a modelwine-rrrnkinp center.
\nothcr monument to Van der Sicl is the
near-hy city of Stellenbutth. width hi- foundedin 107°. Fmm the Universaly of .StcLlc-nbosch,
ccater of Afrikaans speech and culture, haveCnnie three South African Prime Ministers,
imluding the Lite Jan Christiaan Smut*.Sight-seeinc trips around the Tape Penin-
sula may lum up anything front granite tem-ples to mischievous baboons.
The Ttmpte on Pvvrr* Peak
Skirting Devil's Peak, we drove souththrough Li n i J once owned liy Britain -4 empirebuilder. Cet.il Rhodes. He left a htnje rotate
In the country he helped found His awnhouse, ttroote Schuur. he Impieadied a.* theofficial residence of prime minister* uf the thenunborn Union of South Africa (page I T.S >.
Ofl I he slopes of Devil's Peak above GrooteSthuur the Sonth African fiuvernnwnt hasbuilt an Impressive temple in his memory.Xtttr by stands the University of 1'apc Town,housed in white classic buddings.
At the university we picked up a professor
who was to diow us a bird sanctuary in t.'apr
This, a watery area north of False Bay.
On the way we had our first look at a South
African bird that wu> to become very fa-
miliar— the ikkbird, or Cuttle ejjrH. It was
perched on a cow, searching for lick* amiother injects scared up a> ihe animal walked
aluns?. Within the past year cattle egrets
have been fnund in Honda and north lo CopeMay, Srw Jersey, rind even Svw England.
The sanctuary is nilled Scncoo by the Eng-lish, from the Dutch word ztrktw, whii h
means ^sea cow." The name aoes back to a
time when hipjxipQtJunuses [gotprtimei re-
ferred Ui by older South Afrkum fWrows") (i.Hiliil themselves In its water?.
The liijijutf hiive foirg since been killed off,
but we found the low, marshy land and cloud-
less sky daik with birds—pelicans (white with
black wins ltptt) P
herons, galls, teres, andegrets, There were tools, nvocrls. stork.<
(both black and whlieK and many kinds of
ducks and plover, ns well as the sv.dlows
width we were to find all over Africa,
We were fascinated by the show, since for
AO years we have made our liorrie outside
Washington a siactuary (or N'urlh Americanbirds.
Wr rVcognfaed one id the Seacoo visitors,
the arctic tern, as an old friend and worldtraveler. Every year thi* bird flies from t lit*
tip of Africa and other southern areas to rast-
ern Canada and greets us ,il our summer homeni Bnddeck, 2s'ova Scotia. lis route, Almost
II,OUt) miles, is the Jon^st ot anv miemton-bird.
Hew »re rh* "Friendly" Baboons
At the end of the spectacular ilarioe Drive,tut in spots through solid rock high above the
breakers, we came to the Cape of CicmkI Hope.There, on the great barren rocks that plunge050 fret into the *ea. a band of bibwins, iJie
"Tape clowns/' stinwj bctwixn us and the openocean, There were bi^, medium-sized, amiiiitlr lialnwns, and wnw tiny ones clinging to
their mothers.
They were curious and seemeid friemlly andeven approached us to hr£ for ioorl But theyare pranksters, and wo were Ma rueti not in
leave the cur without cbsfng ibe windnw«.Not long before, liabuons had torn the tq>
hotster>' nf an Open air to bits.
Early one maraing we flew from C'upe 'J'own
to Oudt-jhoorn, center of the u.-trh Iw-hmiil!
industry. Whnt gold is sr. Johaimi'sl.uru. the
ostrich is !» this dr)" inhtnd rrgbm. BeforeWoild War l
?when the demand fur plumes
wits at peak, this sect km of the Cape Province
was known around the world.
Then Pari* modistes decreed hnts without
The Manorial C ieo^rapliii. Maga/incISO
plume*. The bottom dropped out of The mar-ket And fortune* were Ik, until Oorlishtvirns
ostrich l>rtrtMJi-t> learned to supplement thcrr
feather business with other activities—dairy-
ing, farming, anil sheep mUlnis
Ostriches provide more than feathers. 1*6**
ever. For morning tea under -hady pepper
trees at KM' ostrich farm, I tried •"(rich-meat
hnrs il Wuvrw, a form of biltong, grated andserved on erackera. Lt was dark brown, crisp,
sally, and shghlty sandy.
One K4A Serves 2-1 People
Fur lurteh We uir i*trteh-ege omelet. Os-
trich eges are much richer than hens' eg^s.
but ihey provide the perfect answer in rase flf
uuexpeeied jruesis: rjne ostrich egg ran *erve
I A to 24 people!
"We use just about everything, from feath-
ers" Uj toenails, saW our hostess, "Tlie Ulife*
nails and sometimes the fed are made into
ashtrays. Even the skin make- eviellenl kind-
bags and siloes. Bui only the male*—and the
best breeds—give lis the valuable black and
white plumes fur capes, fans, and toils. Thefemales' feather? are dull Gray. We makedusters nut of them."
There are now an estimated 25.000 bird* onabout 200 farms tn thr Oudtshoorn area Dry.
sunny conditions then- ;md room for the os-
triches to race about purrt- ul.uly I ivor I he in-
dustry Bui there are many tricks to This
trade.
Ostriches ran he nuioyinn. undrpendaHecreatures- Mortality is high among the chicks,
and adults tend to have accident*: they try
to eat the inedible or they fall Into botes and
break their Je£5.
Ostrkhes do not male until they arc three
or four years old. Incubation of ege: Ii-i-
hx weeks I hiring thL* time the cork lakes
turns with the hen in sitting on the nest.
We saw hundreds of baby ostrich** about
the size of turkey? Different u«r ur.»upv ate
kept In separate enclosure;* for the protection
of the smaller ones.
When the time cornea for plucking, farmers
pull the b% birds by their necks into a penwith n shepherd's crook. Extreme care mustbe taken to keep from breaking the ostrich's
delicate neck. During the plucking process
a cover is often slipped over the bird's head,
"No*" Someone answered my question, "It
doesn't hurt the ostrich to pick his feathers
any mnrc than It dors a man to get a hair-
cut."
Though ostriches can't fly. they make good
speed em the ground. They sometimes race
around the corrals at 25 miles nj\ hour or more.
Teased into dancing and flapping their
stubby wings, they make a comic *ight. Uutadult cock ostriches are far from harmless.
One we watched was particularly nervous nor!
hel liferent. When an attendant poked at him.
be struck out suddenly with his powerful legs.
"They've been known to rip u man open with
those heavy na.il>, the farm manam told u*.
I tHkfii'nj a man riding an ostrich around the
Corral.
"It's not hard,'" they told me, "Try U."riimhinp. up on my steed. I found it rather
precarious, with notbhnir tn hold to but a
handful of fluff (page 17 1 >-
On The other band, it's somethmjE of an ex-
perience to pluck feathers fmy haul was twohandsome feathers, one black and one white)
from ones mount.Between Oudishonrn's desertlike country
and the ki>h couMlands along ihe Indian
Omm rise the Outenii|ua Mountains. Oiiteni-
qua means, in Hottentot language, "lattte
Brown Man Who Brings Honey from the
Mountains."
Across the high, narrow passes of this ramie
many of »he Bori pioneers maaiiueil <oinehow
to drive their on teams and heavily laden
w.i^nn* intu the open veld beyond. I.ike
America's western settlers, these Voortrekkcrs
endured great hardships in their search for
land and freedom. Their daring was rivaled
only by that nf the engineers who litter built
magrdlkeiit highways over these same narrowpasses.
Driving south, in a series of awesome turns
and twists over Montagu Pass (page 18b),
we left the arid hinterlands behind to follow
South Africa's "Harden Route."
This lovely s1 retch of coastal roads windsbetween the mountains and the *ca. Heredeqvgreen forest* alleinate with fields' andgaruYas. Thousands of varieties of flower*
and ilnwerine. shrubs line the way.Farther along come panoramas of seaside
cliffs, white beaches and blue lagoons, andocean-fronting resorts, with howling greens,
golf courses, and tenuis courts.
Honrymonners, retired Kiitflfshmen. and vj
canonist* from llie warmer African regions
flock to the garden playground. We stopped
at land'* end, in Ihe popular scenic resort
bote) mcongruously called "Wilderness.'"
The Ronduvcl—Africa's Motor Court
The proprietor, Mr. Owen Grant, has beena member ol the National tieoxmphic Society
for It years. He came to South Africa fromEngland in 1900 and was one of the engineer*
who helped build the country' s mountain-climbing railways. Re was a pflot in WorldWar 1 and still flies his own plane. When 1m
visited New York several years ago. he rented
a small airplane tm fly himself and Mrs. Gruntaround the eastern States.
While my husband played golf wfth him on
• ]il>c Pmhl'* H«H:kv Mntc-r \lurk«d \ iih'A du C rainy'* Pnvsaite tn India
At tlsr very a| C»pr Pen in«i Ia |«min ilir Cap* r.( C.u.t Hi |«r urnl C-i|i* t'uuit (f»rruc<iuml> TWCalm wnlrf af tfsht U FaJsc Buy NViirmrd |#>* it cutoiu trnm itw ledum Ocean, it is hanl wnh bathing rr-
Kiits. Un ilic kit tlit >tormy AUanlic. colli even in <u miner, bivuks *#iintf thu rottlk
a course uenr Africa's1
Ifp, I went swrnrninjr.
in the warm Indian Ocean with Mrs. Grant
\nd it was .11 YVilderne* that w« met our
&r»t African finula veL
This is not some rlr.in^i* wild Itcusl 1ml fl
mtuII iwesthoiise. built In ibr rfrctilar shapeof a nti live hut (pa^e |9N). Iarvury fmdavelvwith fine furnishtms, elceiridty, and runningwater, rank wish the t>esl C S, motor ou-urte.
Snath Africa hu> its *hare of thuie, too.
Through Vast Primeval Fnrcytv
On rhr Garden Home nearer rn port K1Lta-
beth we drove -all dJtjr through vaM forest
preserve*. Some were standi nf eucalyptus
trees: others were the hiitfily jiri/ed «t inkwoodanil South African yeilowwuucL The city of
Khvmu, on the edee of the forest, is a uic&y
lumbering center
In the mysUTknj* urern depth* of r.he wood*
live some of the largest rlephant.& in Hie world.
Only a remnant of the once mighty hen I re-
nmtas,
Wt saw no elephant*, but in rhc near In
forest we found the famous kiuu forward \ II
tree, ll is a native South African yellow-
wond. 137 feet tnll. Iu age b eMim;iied nl
Iwrlween Ifi unci 17 Centuries -surely one of
the oldest living things in South Africa!
I'..rt raijuJielH. 1 50 mile* Cu the east, Wasnamed for the wife of iui early .Britten pov-
ernor o| thr l "ape t'ohmy, Sir Kufant (lonkfri.
l-ady Uonkrn died its I firth without ever
seeing Africa. After her husband tuid out
the new town in 1S2Q, he had a small monu-ment rateed on a hill near the [N«rt.
'''fit the memory nf one of the most perfe< I
of human lielngs . . says the bn\i\w pluuur
*fc~iiKibetn Frances, Lady Oonkin, died
in the l"|t]HT Hindoi^lnn of a fever on ttMAuiiUM. 3HI8. ajied not qcfte iS years. Sbeleft an Infant in his seventh month loo younyto koqw the irreparable Ins* he had sustained
nnd a husband whov heart h- -till wning byiltiilfniihlrdied mirf He erect it! this p.vrunikf.
Aiigiwl. 1820/"
Tort ElfB.il>flh I* a modern. faM-irrrtvviliK
town of 199J0O Ipuze I72>. It has scores
2 - -a
a a> £if
9
!5
ES
Tlic National Geographic Magazine
uf new industries, but shippou: U the bin
business; \\ is Smith Africa's rbfrd Ittgcvl
port. Canned pineapple £rum here funis Its
way to the urocery Mure in our Nova Scotia
summer home.Along this caul , ns in I hi* West Indies,
hopeful fortune-seekers are always fitting nut
expeditions to find lost treasure. Our morn-
ing |k&(>er lokl of .1 venture just KeHinK under
way between port Elisabeth and Ihulmn. It*
object was lo bring up gold front the Kan I.
fudiaman. the Grotvcnvr* wrecked tn 1782.
It would he well worth salvaging' The ftOO-
lon (/fi'jT'rmrf sailed ftom TruKomuli-e. Oy-lun, in Joaifcary, -Mxurd wo* a fabulous
irea.we; gold, silver, ivory, preeiouf* stones,
and coins, valued then at $10,000,000. Besides
tbesr* the ship also may have carried iwn
jewd-enrru^d Rolden peacocks, (mm the
throne uf the Gnat Mugul at \ew Delhi. Thethrone was Once valued at £35,000,000.
So loaded, the kVimrmu, a floating I reus-
ujc client, ran into bud weather off I'oudoland,
about 30 mile* northeast of what '& now Port
St, John*. WhIjstiI in rock* only n few hun-
dred yards offshore, she was urolteri up by
heavy seas.
Scare then, several n I tempts li.iv I tern madetu rescue the treasure. Une group in I"06
tunneled under the sea bed to within 40 feet ol
the wreck, then quit ion luck of cupital.
fiir. uidy it (civ corns, some broken china. and
some mated guns have ever l>een found.
"Thank* t» Mr. IMPEven more o( a surprise than the story
about the Grarvtnar was another newspaper
headline: "Thanks to Mr. Bell." By roiud-
detice we had arrived just as the city was in-
augurating a new automatic telephone ex-
change. Id sera: J.000 new subscribers.
The "thanks"' referred to ray father's inven-
tion of the telephone 76 year? earlier. With
it was ftpage-lone and unusually acmrate
hifiuraphical sketch.
Mv husband ami I visitrd the rditurrnl
• •mrc- "1 "hi" newspaper, thr h:.tt*rn Province
ff&utd, to thank il* editor*. Ii was mid-morninjt when we arrived, and we found them—of course!—having tea. After introduction*
they risked us to join them The next daythe Hrrtrfd had another story with a picture
and a three-column headline:
"P. E. Telephone Switch Coincidence:
Inventor Bells iJaughier in t"iiy*i
But if dial telephones symbolize modernAfrica, one Mtfhl I saw in Port Elisabeth wasstraight from the jungle. In the heart of
town lies a shrub- and plaiit-lilled pit wherehundred.* of live snakes writhe and crawl,
mil ami uncoil. We watched Johannes, a.
veteran native attendant, dressed in heavy
gloves and leggings, handle the puff adder*.
I'ape culiriis, hiKimslajitia, areen .tod htuik
mambuH, ami oilier venomous snakes.
A job in Snake Park not for the timid
Johannes and other men whi» kh uiIt. the pit
are often bitten. They survtvc only because
of snakebite serum, quickly administered,
We had vMted "5n;ike parks1
in other cities.
iiHlmlintf the famour- ones, in Sao Paulo, Bru-
zil, and Miami, Florida, They are more than
just tourist aitrncttons. Port IWxabeth'fr rep-
tiles are rceuLiriy "milked ' of thdr poison
for use in making antiraiins. iJurinj; WorldWar I] the serpentorium cutletled venom for
H*rum to protect the lives of Allied soldiers:.
Durbufw I.fincl) OurjKut to World Port
We flew neM to Durban, .South Africa's
leading seaport, with a population m* 17 5,0^0.
It has many factories, and 3Is wharves are
busy and crowded; yet it has beautiful resort
hotels aJnitg its water front, Tint, clean
beaebes, and a wonderful warm sea wind.
Ottly 125 yearn sro ft was a Jondy British
outfMMi. The Lu ill around tt then wo* Mill
rnliij by Zulu kin^t whose fierce warriors,
thousands strong, had fou)>hl bloody battles
with the early settlers.
Here the South African street scene, familiar
To me by now. Linages. Snu«ll-fealurrd In-
dian woinrn wait by in gold anil la%,emleraar«. Kxplorlnu sidr lanw. f foufld descend-
ants of Zuhi warriors sellrnR nunc potions
and charms alotiir with mvalies—naltvp earn.
tn n shetl mnrkel we saw samples af the
old Zulu rmfUs—beadwork, feathers, and bas-
ket weaving. Nest to them were delicate
ivory carving* marie by thf Indians, relative
ni'Wi orners to Africa (puRe \QQ).
"We have the larsest Indian communityof any city outside India," a fiurhanite told
us. it atoned in the ISoO's. when The >uuat
Lrrouer-. 1-eu.m importing indentureit workrrs
from India fm their planiaiiaail. Xow weh«vr Hindu teiopJe*. bwaarts. and even fire
walkers and -.h.ikr i hannefS."
Substitnlc (or Witch pOCCori
In Durban we visited the AtcCord ZuluHospital, one of South Africa s first hospitals
exclusively for noii-Kuropftin patient*.
\i» founder was hr. James It. Mc<.'nrd. anAmerican medical missionary who rame In
Natal in 1599. The Zulus, when lie arrived,
still depended on witch doctors to cure their
Ilk. Dr. McCord devoted the next 40 yean*
to hrlnejmi them moilem medical care.
Hr. Alan Taylor, who has headed the hos-
pital since lir. McCorrl retired in 1940, andMrs. Taylor, who is a Canadian, proudly
showed us ihrouch the modern 6-story winp.
From n collage clink where Dr. McCord once
C *Btirai «-«r«.r.ii' taWi ;ss k-u, 111 . . i. ii.m..-i i.
Bull Giraffe Takes a l-offy View from u R.i.uisidc in Kru^er F'ark
thr antcJopo mti| deer, arcpeauuhle erratum But, If
rorncrtif ami attacked, Lbeyrain ilrudty bfo\v> witli ihrir
dm cti IiimiY^ Adult* fcUIVI! hutonr natural rnrmy, the Iicm_
luiaftS it bars tun m thrwor the Ms; ial» to pull down aRiratfc.
OUl buns ultra banJi? for
berd suprunary, They notocd> [n*h flut with nnV-drivrrkkks. bid vftlna their neck*'ik<- 3ui,cLiall UaU in in cflctrt
to knock cadi other off hal-
nnce.
The inraflc cannot drink•Abtn vtanriint up ruth I. Tti
ii>ne neck cnnUiiu no moct (
ttant itrinu than thftl o/ ahi>pr<rxitAjni|[i and cannot Iklo-wprwl vary fat.
fli'ic t«o idrafia bend op•-'i.i. (din! fntvVitt whilr a
child am ii ientlnrf. Ot-uedten pcrrli tin tht mntt[<*r|
bai'kv
195
n U f.««n !Wi«il Unci h|i lii i •!»«
Zimbulmi:'* firtiil I'lllrxic*! Temple U u Mystery from Mru*"« Dark I'™*!
Dm ruinn, fouoil In iHfaH in Stxrtheni UtimMfli, airiit-titoitial* Ttw; uniple 1
* fttUttf well* art W30 (wi ftrminrl um]
>ft Iwi hi*h In plwtt* CninililiiiK inner walU. r*sht. tlivMv (he tcrtflile trim a mine of Hippusitr jji>«ci
Safari Through Changing Africa
HVo« can't mnkc it" ihry tnM us. "Themads- are washed out. There's no through
Irafn, no air SOTvke.rt
Wc manned, LrnMJfi,h- Our pilot back at
Victoria Falls had Jimtily arranged with a col-
league for us to bit? a pluJir, one of those
numerous flying ibjps that arc available- i m 1
o
throughout much of Africa.
Thus ISO miles cast uf Bolawuyo < ftnsishini;
by ear over partially puved rciadi wc came to
Zimbabwe the ruin.* of a dly (mill by An un-
known people at nn unknown lime. Even the
name ii a puzzle, li may comhinr two Bantuwotib meaning "sirmes" and 'houses,
1 *
The massive structures wbich make up the
''Great Zimbabwe'* are built v»{ haud~bewti
stone dutifully Jilted !^rt3iH without mortar.
They were laid om rarefully in ft tfcomeiric
pattern. Ai one end U ft vast and roofless
Elliptical Temple, its thick, inner and outer
wall? etiiln^e platforms and two towers
Who ttved in Zimbabwe?
Near by ore the scanrred stones of a YaJ-ley of Ruin- where people may once have
lived. Beyond rises the Acroj^ilis. a bill
ctuwuerE by obvious fortifications Here the
granite walls were so constructed a* to mergewith and make the greatest defensive use ai
lie ijiunt boulders already on the *imU
Wandering about. I wj* reminded of Maxhuritchu. in Peru, where another vanished race
ha* left .umllar ruins of mortarlejs stone.
Bui Mucbil Pit-rhu is linked with the Inca
and prr-lnt i! pmples. Wmb.dnve Lick> authen-
tic record* or iiticcriplioft* and has Few relict
to hint nt a lonp-lc^t past. \ui even burial
grounds identify its people.
There are clues to what their occupation
Wis; old crucibles (ax melting gold have beenfound in ihe rua>. Medieval Ai.ih.nu! Portu-
guese cxnlorers once ink I ni some such fab-
ulous gold-mining center in the interior.
Archeoluujsts have argued about Zimbabweever since Adam Render*. American hunterand trader, found the ruins in IAM.
Karly inve>ti«atiirs thought the settlenient
bar! been in existence thousands of years.
Some MiKKe>teiJ that ancieut traveler^. perhapsthe Phoenician ur £al«?aii*. had buill the city.
Others theorized that it was in the Itihlical
land ot Ophir. ihat it w.t> the source of gold(or Solomon s Temple and of the j?ift5 broughtby ihe tyieen ot Shelia.
Modern archenlogiAts make ul> such claim*ol 4ntK|uity, but I lie detective work jjries on.
Since we were at Zimbabwe. TJ. S. physicist*h ive examined a piece of wood from one ofthe temple walk Using archeology '$ neweMyarrijliek, the tii^er counter, they liave mea*-ured the Mdiu.icliVRy of the wood ami esti-
mated its age; about 3 ,350 years!
Tin- uold that once helped sup|>ori Zim-babwe is ?llll important in Simlhern Rho-
desia's economy. Last year nearly halt arnOb'on ounce* were taken front log and little
mine> Mattered over the numtry. Many o(
them i% into the same vein* worked by the
early race of unknown miners.
"We know the am irniv worked out mines/
said Mrs. Hill We*l, who with lu-r liushand
ow n« and operates .i pold mine near Zimbabwe.' We've found their crude implement* in the
old mine ?hafr?. One of the theories aboui
the many abandoned diggings found armindherein th.il ihe miners j:.ive up each lime they
struck water. Since they didn't know btnfe
to pump it nut. the} had to move on.1 '
We loo were nmvittfS on. We were sched-
uled fo make another ghcan lie mr boji into the
depth* of Africa, depths until recently pene-
trated only by mt'n puslii^u on lovt throuuli
swamps arid jungles.
From Zimbabwe back tr> Huhmtvo the afr
miles flowed by. We flew on la Salisbury,
Southern Rhodesia s capital, and from There
over the tip of Pnrtueue!*e Mozambique andthe high plateaus and mountains of the Brit-
ish prole< (or:ile> N'yasaland.
We LTosst>c] Like Xya*a and tlie ^ame luiui.*
id ^juihern Tnnffanyika, to slop at trie ImtbnOcean |H*rt r Liar es Sali^am. Its Arabic namemeans Haven of Peace, ' beryhjji u stormytjerman-Ilnlish history
I'iiKilly. 400 mfles farther, we landed ai
inland Nairobi, tlu? lively capital of Britahys
Krnyn I'oJony and S'roiectnrale. European*in Kenya number Judy about ^O.QCX). le** than
one percent of the Negro population. Duringour stay there, however, we coitJi] ,**e lillle
trace of the racial unrest which was to erupt
les* than n ye;tr later into a series of bloody
mu'vu res by the Mau Mau. a CrtminunUi-inspired ur^ain/ainui of Ktkuyu Irihrsnven,
MintH foe Tr:n clcr%
From Kenya we visited I'ganda, lleleum
Congo, Kthiupii!, the Sudan, anr| Kyypt,
We found travel In Africa pleasant amiea-y for the nrn'f iwri. the wenrry (ahiulously
lnMinifid, dtr hoiek iind fimis gi.>f«t its a rute.
Tbc foxid w;i5 uniformly rxcrJIent. Hut For
travelers who exjieil hi follow our route, I
can "tffer thi? advice;
Take clothes for all climates. Even in
equATorta! Africa it's ci»l on the pbteaus.Ci.QOO "r more feet upr and a coat is useful.
At Zanzibar and T>of e> Salaoni. on t.he oilier
hand, the lhmur*t, li^hlr-t Ihinuj- in (Jir ward-robe are thr ltin-.t t-'OtWtl|blr.
Be uirefuf aridnrssfni your mail. When
•Sff Homeland of Ihe \V=»lil (- Inert," lie
Kw lt»i>. \*Tn»'M CiEr^RArme M*oaiint. October,
iwa
mKoncbvcU, Copied From N*riv««' Ctrvulur Hw*. Arc Africn
k
i Own Tourbt Gabfai
Sfniplr tn tlr-ian anil c*miliirl.il>1«i, ll^v il.uU'hfil found Utmv» fit *'ii«ut*M> trilo I In- 1*jkIh4|kThey ate prnUnl to bmtf*J*o in many part* ol AlHia Sunie arv luxuriously lum^hrd. wi'h elwinrlly *tu\
running intrr. Hurc lh« juthor in*pcti» u rt'iutim'l in /ululand"= lilubhiwr flam/ Ita&wvt*.
3*n<ltfi4? letter* home U» ihr t : nirrd Slates.
ilonY, for a city such as Richimitid, put
"V. S, A/' after It, or it will pruMily be
delivered to Richnumd. Natal. In the I 11ton
of South Africa. There arc many towns whose
name* duplicate nuts, and '^SA/'Vlfft! the
initial^ in common use for the Union of riouih
Africa as- well as fr»r the I'nked States oi
America-
Be sure to nntkc Jtoie] reservations in ad-
vance. Until!? am! ions, with few exceptions,
are small and air nhiti lull.
Keep your passport*, visa*, :md medical
recoids with y«m al ,dl timt*. TraveHjg in
much uf Africa, you arc moving only Iruni
one part of the Hritish Commonwealth to
another. Just the sune, you will be asked to
-how your paper* at each airport
This is because each rwklUicat sabdfv^Ott
ItSfl &$ own eiwcrnment: Nigeria k a colony
and pfi ilcctorate; the I'nion of South Afrits
is a duminton consisting of four Provinces:
Northern Rhodesia and Upanda arc protector-
ates, and Southero Rhodesia, a seir^ivrrnirvii
colony; nnfl 50 on. In some cases, of course,
as in the Bdtfutt Congo. Ethiopia, and Keynt.
you are moving under different fia# entirely.
ffiT the same fejiNin, El. i* wise not 10 lake
too much of one kiinl ul mone* with you. a*
iSie money and postage stamps, nf course,
chanue ai eiuh border. M each litne you
cri>ss a frontier von have tn RiVe ancotmi ofthe money in your possession*
Member* of ihe National <icr>t;raphic Sna-rly may be inlet r^ted to know there arc 8,000
fellow members in South Africa alone Theywelcomed ns in every city we visited.
DurefooC Waiters und Jumilc Uruim
Everywhere vre wenl in Africa «c found
ill c stranpe contrasts and contradictions of a
continent in transition. Here a ii -conditioned
hotels, uh'del farms, and dial telephunes c*i*t
side by .side with jungle drum*, 1 VjVlunt-
and mischh'Vfhu* hahnctm^ tn excellent newhotel restaurants you ore startler! to find yourmeats served by n hatefonl. white-robedwitilct weaimi! h cummerbund anwnd h£<
wuist Bod a fe^ on his head—the pre -ai/Iri^
wniier K«rb from f ;i[K' Town to Cairo.
Invariably we were ftnpfe<5ed by the workEr[|{*h colcinfal j^uvrtiuiients ar^ dofnu in Ihr
\ i t sections of \frira which lie utnlcr the
Brttf<;h flaR, M«J of Ihw wiirfc in modernlime* Is devoted to improving the statu*, notof the English *rlrlers hut of the Africans;la eradicating disease, improving asrrTcufrure,
and intmducing new iufltE^tries.
Schools, aniveriities. ant I h^piiaUhnve hernbuilt: more are iininj» up. And there is tfrral
conacimitne.^i That the Irtiig-range objecth* is
to teach Africans lo Kovem themselvr*.
Bclteville Brings Science to the Farm mliv Samvij. \V. M vinil us
/~pWLLVf\ miN* from downtpwn WmI ingtnn, li. c '.. b .» bum thai Ju-L alT I hi* rules. Caws Like heat batfa
W'rrrb are planted in greenhflu:***. Fruit tree*
ire sprayed with unium! idns* and ilifWiW
cerm*. and i «h Urjache* arc raided in imni|>ercil
The farm employs 2,000 hired hands
—
hundreds with scientific drtrrces—yet prowsm <l hinj? fur market. But from «o] day4>y-day actrvitie* the American taxpayer rea|tf
bounteous renirus. The harvest nf the t'nfted
States Agricultural Research Center ai ISelis-
villc, Maryland, tjf knowledge.
Farm Muiik- in rliv Multm£
Crossbred cows swelter in artificial tropics
so that a few year* hence dairy herd* in hot
southern States will grve mure rta Llk. Fromarectdwux- wwi beds tome better chemical
weed killm for farm? and lawns of tomorrow.
Orchard* wflN l«r more reatstant to Iritghts
because Dvlthvillr infects trees with disease
through tiny Rushes vul h> flying glass. \\ i\h
fupercockroaches, immune lo present poisons*
scientists test new chemical killers,
UeraiiNe of Iteltwille and eA|*eJ"imenl sta-
tions like it hi nil 4$ .Slates, n revolution is
lakinK place on The American land, Thefarmer wvirld has changed morr in a single
lifetime than in nil the previous centuries manhas cultivated the earth.
T«*day'> farmer ufwrates machines, unknowntu his grandfal her. thai till his fields, fill Ins
silos mend his fences, and milk his cows, Heplant.* serrfs from which grow foods and fibers
unheard of in this country a few decades aeo
He mhte^ *irramlinetl pigs that arrive In larger
litters, and tfvit mure ham anil Irnonn, amisheep with lonctT, finer wool.
Spra> Bnrivh* .tnd \1idfltl Turk*.-)'*
Agricultural science affect* the doily life of
us all. What we ent taste* I letter, b mareplentiful ami more nutritious. Much of whalwe vve.it la-it* longer and cost* less. Life is
healthier and safer. I.o -k at a few examples:The first te*U of 1M)T in this country were
made at BeltsvihV following its dbenvery in
-Switzerland. The aerosol spray homh, crnj-
itrd with saving thousands of lives in WorldWar Tl by preventing insect -iHvrnr di,M'a-*\s.
sprang from the ingenuity of two Hrltwdle
scientists (page JJS). The spectacular werd-killing ptmtx of a chemical ttitmetl 2.-M* werediscovered mi a. djuulellon-cb'Aod Inwu at theResearch Center
Few nd) arhwrvemcnts bear Bcltsvilles
name, t'titil ' Hellsville turkey*," plump withwhile meal, hrttfn ap|iearinK in stores a fewyears arci, must city housewives had never
heard of the placeHut thruiiirh the paues ol scientific joirrrals,
wherever men are seeking new horizons in
farming, the sprawling rxprrimrnt Malum onthe outskirts of the Nat ton's Capital k fast
beenminit world-famous.
"Many farmers in my country can tell youwhere Uelt<vilte ov' a foreijni visitor told meone day. "The name is u? well known to themus any town in the United States."
This was a man who had traveled &.000miles to see the Re-search Center. An official
ol die Turkish Ministry of Agriculture, hehad come for a six-months nationwide train-
ing course tinder the hnnt 4 technical avsi•lam v program.
f.)n tours arrariped by ihe Departments of
State and Agriculture nearly I0.OOD visitors
went to BcJtsvillc in 1952. Farmers arrivi-'l
from Uenir»ark'> crern fJnirylnnd and fn>m the
Golden wheat country of the Dakota*. Aeri-
cultuittl students .-l^nr*l ir imm univTrsities in
Greece and hind -iiratil colleizes of the Ureal
PJaiit-, Coutiry ai^ r r- i.umc from rural uEYlcc-
in India and Indiana.
C/tLci Cm>\\+ "The- f^mhiiiatiiin"
Thj.itfe who cannot c;o to Beltsvillr telephoneor write. In one office 1 noticed a cardtmanicartin piled hieh with papers and pushedunder a table
• Our filing space gave out/' a ^cienibt said.
There are 10.000 letter* in that box. all
received in the |ml thret? months :iud all
requeslinp advice about tawn yr.iv"
This sanie man walked me across a springy
carpet rrf fanta^tte new turf developed at
lielUville, Htw Combination.'' he called it
"This jhra&* won't low color in rnklMim^mer hra!/' he said. "It thrives in pxxir soil
without watering, crowds out weeds and crab
icrcus. and fpsiats di-ea.^e> and insects. It 5 sotough that on a £i»if course- It fc* virtually 'Lv<»t-
proof."
Secrrt nf The Combination la ;t remarkablrstrain <if grass lhat came ori^iually friinj
K'irea. Its name, Meyer zoysia, lornmem -
rates n Department of Agriculture plant ex-plorer. Frank N. Mcvrr. who died mystrrious-ty in China after «endmj* home many strains
nf the jMiysia famfly.*
Su< ~A Hunuf hi I'luniv' fry l>jvifj FairrJiilil,
Nahonal QttKWAruic Magaeim,' Juty, 1919.
200 The National Geographic Magazine
Planted with a new TsIuegroH? discovered
irrowErrg nil the Merioit (roll i'\t\h course nrar
Ardmotc, Pntn^vlv.iufa, a few years apoT
Meyer 'XoysiA fo.uos «a almost period iwf bythe ritfomus standards, of Ihe United Stales
Golf Association (page 210).
Meyer zoysui 15 nor yet available in seed
form, bui a few enterprLsinfi nurserymen sell
plugs am} Mock* of Meyer sod, which maybe set into an existing lawn. Lender eood
conditions ihny spread and join In Iwo sum-mers. The new tfrass Tww been planted thus
in thr Inwri of the Whirr House.Tprdd J 5 for a square foot of Meyer eod frnrn
a near-by nursery und sawed the preen-haired
cake inli 1 4S small block-- with a bread knife,
Following directions, 1 spaced the blocks afool apqrR in a mines nf my yard, Occa-tfrinalb I walrfcd and feffitixed them-
By Ijibor Day lu=h trn?en tufts marched:iVme the fence in geometric procession. Fromeach ntfi new runners spread Hfce spokes.When my xaysin is re-plu^ed into the rest
of the lawn. Merlon hluegras* must I*- reeled
abn. Merino grows btsj In Ihe eool monthsof -priiift and fall. whereas the Meyer thrives
in summer's hottest weather, Toother theyprovide jjrrra. cover almost all year*
I iae!c Sam—FarmerKeltsvJHe is the Nation > largest agricultural
experiment renter.
Us fields and forest*., barnyards and Ld>ora-
turie£ stretch acrn&g 1 1 ,000 acres of mlliny
Maryland countryside,
U iihin the station, nine mfle>fnim one endin the olhrr. ari? 050 bufMinjss. In' following
ihe Center's 53 miles of ronds 1 found xn air-
jMirt. a granary, a iu.ily.ird, and gleaming
acres of pm;nhousc«-At the Plant Industry Station, on If, S.
Route 1, I talked with a botanist about the
miracle^ being achiever] there in the breeding
of new hybrid crop* (pane 202).
"In any research/' he -oh), 'a scientist
must ask I lure question*: How ran it bemade brtirr- How can it be made cheaper?Can something new be made? 1 '
Today .American farmers crow an additional
three-quarters nf a billion bushels of corn each
year by planting hybrid *eed. They rai«golden tobacco far jwtetrr. milder, and lower
hi nicotine content than the. leaf of Sir WalterRalegh's day. Sclcntfsts at Bcltsville arenow producing Raster lilies as hii* as the bell
of a tmnilionc- and srtupdra^ons and carna-tions half again as large ns the usual variety.
There nre- potatoes selected especially fur
potato chips.
ttainp well-known laws of genetics; plantbreeders now transfer Mir.ierinr trait* from oneplant tD another much as farmers produce
n mule by breeding Jackass und mare. Theresult is increased vigor, jjrniter yield, andhealthier, better adapted crops.
Hybriil corn has many things in commonwilJt the mule. The offspring of two different
strains outproduces either parent. Yield-,
jump spectacularly, just as a tiiuKV wtirl
capacity is greater than that nf either parent-
Four UushcU nt Corn Replace Three
Tin: first 10 bushels of Irybrld seed cornwere put on the market tn 1922, and 11 sparkwas slrucfc in ihe Corn Belt, By 1043 tnnre
than half of all lT . S corn «rew from hybridSeed. Today Ihe figure ts above 80 percent
for the Nation and virtually 100 percent in
Ihe Corn BelL
As !>r. Albert H. MoscnuiO. chief of thePlant Industry Bureau, put it: "The extra
hu-hel in even.' four which hybrid corn j^ave
115 is worth enough each year tn pay for all
tin re^urrh «\ti done by Ine l^ej-artmeriT of
To learn how chwly acrinilluraj rwenrchnffecu the average AnH-rfc^n, 1 m out to seehow Beltsvilte ts hnprnvintr the Great j\meri-
MeaJ—?te.ib and potatoes, tomatoes, applepie and rhecsc.
In ;i puddoi k at the animal liusbundry bnm*t found cittle that had never e^ten green prnw,nor !iad I heir forebear? for f\vtr Retierallons.
Kept on concrete and bans earth, they live
on preefce test raliou^, Ij^w-qiialicy hay, pltnirraJn and cottonseed. lEtiseryJ, itt ikiybean irti*al
r
1 ontml their vitamin A and protein inrjike.' The Idea.'* 1 wo? lold, to ftnd out
uhetlit'r prevaihoK notions of raising andfeeding ranue cattle are valid. We have foundsewnl nirw ways to improve their nutrition.''
Thus Beltsvllte helps ensure the quality
and availability nf tomorrow.*$ beefsteak,*
ScicncL1 rr.in^h>rtn« the SptiJ
A potato specialist showed me how gtfenceworks ;il Belwville to kivc the common $f>tn\
primely qualities In a single year 50,000hybrid potato. seedUiigs may lie yrrowrt in
irreenhouses- From the«erbreeilrrs may u.ei
one new potato variety promising enough $0
christen with a name and relpase to Gridstations fnr further tests.
To breed a disease-resistant pouito, scien-
tist-. i|*> not beetn by planting fct ttoiis or wholeseed potatoes as do farmers. Tliey work fromthe "fruit" of a potato plant, which manyfarmer*, particularly where growing days arenormally hot, never sec
Neither, 1 learned, had one rod-faced radio
commentator. One day at bre.ikfast time he
•Sec 1'America's 4Mtai on the Hoof.- * tip William
aw. 1*51.
^Aumy-ijii; f" Prc-rkicnl Fivunlicmer Nfnrvcls ut Beluviltc'H EfU Sonerr
The PrimirlcBl. In-pccling tlir Rcurattli C«nrrr, win fnxiruir^ri by (he rlrtironic machine iviutJr scjm-
rvtni esc* b> *3h"U tutor (puce .'15'. A minimc Jarm btfjr, lie showed iccJi intorsl in iJjc Center i project*.
M tu? rtiihr »ta*nh S«ttiin «f \jmruliurf Enj Tift Hnum» Tb* h**l*5> -ii BelNviWf Small Whhn Itirkoy
devoted much of his program hi destrUi&tttk in
yre.it exilement, the wonderful plant Mm
l
t»rew in his garden near W.ish i ti|t tort.
"It hag potatoes on one end and tomMnesBli I he oilier/' he announced.
Almost before ihe broadcast ended, the
studio telephone tegan In ring. Soon the
commentator called rWll^vrilc
He learned to his embarrnssmrnt thai what
he iurl seen ^ras nut .1 two-cn>p miracle, hut
a ftfiUti) plant forming green wed ball?, like
n 1 1 n 1 11 ( 1 1 -t e unripe tomatoes (page 204).
through a plant with (Jeigtr counters. Tooth-pick doses are sometimes so powerful ihcif
effects can be traced to the second or even the
thirrl generation.
Jii bv|l*vilir'« hormone spwnhousts I saw
beanstalks 'with *win> ihai dunned in Rirange
twists anrl turns. Other plants £r*w from
« It mlile and triple root
Some growth regulators cause fruit to ri|>cn
early. In spring they tun make blossom*
"stick" lunger Ofl the tret-, ac with the Jap-
anew flowering cherry lrrr* Eh \Va.Uuu^C<m.
l>. C, Other spray? reverse the process, ihin-
j ij t=4» blossoms in orchards to prevent trees
ln>m developing mure fruit than citn he nour-
ished to gimtl size.
Maiii-growih scientists work- as well with
the winder rfnigu of modmi ow-dicine, the
antibiotic*. They find that these organic
compounds, which inhibit ar destroy disease-
producing bacteria, viruses, or fungi, will
move through a phutl somewhat as ihrovmh
the human body.
New antihlotics have been discovered in
many plants, Bettsville chemists have Isolated
a crystalline substance frum the tomato plant
that 5tup4 the growth Of certain harjrdul
to plants and animal*. They have found ac-
tive antibiotic uuents in the sweet potato amithe banana, cabbage and cactus* cucumber
and celery, broccoli, lettuce, and rnu^kmclon-
From lontatldme. a chemical made from
tomato leaves and mote, merited researchers
have produced the Sex hormones urogestrmneand testosterone. Even the complex hormonedrug cortisone may someday be made from
the tomato, *hurmrfl as [wdwniotis little morethan a century ago.
Scientist Takirs. PilU ..f 2,4-1)
The potent weed poison 2.4-D, which snuffs
tmt the life of broad -leaved weed* withoutharming urass, was discovered first a* ft
growth regulator.
Somehow t-hr chemical stimulates plant
growth when applied in ink roM'opie amountsHut larger doses so oversiimuktte mostbroad-leaved plants thai they tiurn up their
food reserve in leaves, stems, and roots andliterally Starve to death.
When <* iejitihl*. al hrllsville nr-t de.-i overerl
2,4-1 1\ wml-UHim: powers, they levied it
Ehtiroujihly on near-by coif course* /ind evpenmen tal plot.*. They were >lil| not sure,
however, whether it could be used safrlv
around farm animals nr moo.For 106 days a cow was Ted grain with
enough of the plant poison in it to kill a tree.
Iflond samples ivere taken and applied to
seeril truss. The plant< Showed there was
ZQ4 The National Geographic Magazine
2.1 -D in the blood, but the cow was unharmedand the chemical did un\ appear in her milk,.
Then Dr. K/ni J. Ktuiis, .1 Dcriartmrnl of
Agriculture scientist, since retiral. took cap-
sillcs of pure 2.4-11 everv rlav for three weeks.
He suffered in 1 til rife: is proving thai the
new miracle spray could be used safely. In
1-945 it was released In the public, -Some
30,000,000 pounds a year are sold.
Kvtn newer weed killers, are now being
tested. I siw M-K'triivu plant itobun* applied
to suil Froro which com. wheat, and soybeanwedlihgs would grow unharmed, but never a
weed, Using such ' pre-emcrgence'' toil treat-
ments, farmers may one day mix wwl killers
with fertilizer and watch mips grow in weed-
lea fields.
Mystery of ihc Viewers
For 33 years scientist* have known that ihe
cban^iim lencth of day ujj J ni^ht is a baskregulator of plant life. The phenomenon is
called phatoperiodisni. But haw it woifcs is
still a myrtery.
Some plant?- blossom only In the lengthen-
ing days of spring. Others require more dark-
new than diiyliuh! and bloom in the fall whenthe nigh* - are liw online longer,
BeltsviUe discovered that darkness, not
light, time* the miracle -if rl'*>weriiia. Whenthe night shortens or lengthens to a certain
spun, an unknown mem mtthantsm tells
plants thai it is Ihe season to blossom.
Sometime* if a plan I f normal night is
broken by esvn a short rtssh of light, it can
be fooled into reactine as if there hart Iwen
two short Eights rather lhan one long oneGreenhouse operator* already use this prin-
ciple to withhold the blossoming of chrysan-
themums anil pniuseltin until late ia the fall,
producing flower- timed to football crowds or
ihe t'bristnvi* holidays
Tn u dark basement laboratory T watchedplani physiologists study photoperiodism A1
ihe end of a Jong narrow mom a rainbowsuddenly appeared. Id a swath of multicolored
licht stood a line of potted plants. A scientist
hi shirt sleeves moved into the lurht, shifting
plants across the beam (page Z12).
"Different wave torglhs of Ifcht tause plants
to behave in different way*,*' the expert
mrnter said. "A few minutes under a certain
litfhl hand sometimes can atari a plant's blos-
soming process. Given another type of liiiht,
the same plant will not bloom at alL
"There seems In be a pigment, or set of pig-
ments, in plants which reacts only to a par-
ticular wave length But how this trigger
mechanism induce* llovverirg, we don't know:"Evidence has hem found that a phnioperiod
mechanism atai operate* hi animals and birds.
It tells them when to change the color of fur
or fmthers. and when the mating season
nrrfvfs, A difference of only 20 minutes in
audit length has induced mails in a liell>villc
laboratory to begin laying eegs.
Crop Spccdnip Fiflhr* |5»B Ru*r
Belts villi- plant breeders vary light amidarkness In four grain plants and vege-
table- into iluwerln^ in lb* middle, of winter,
producing in extra crop each year.
The time thus saved. I,\ lele^ophig a cou-
pic of growing seasons into one and na«.*re
ipuckly tinebng a resistant witty, <nutd meanUir dtfferercr Ix'tween winning or lusing arace against a plant disease.
Kiird-fircssed irrain breeders at Beliifvfllp
nnd at cuopieratiri^ State exfwrimerit (tfwOKIare now rncin? one of the most dnngcroui new^trains of an old disease ever to attack the
uhi*atlant|s of North Aai?rh~a, In l*J50 a newstem ritslt Race f.5-B. suddenly became agrave menace.
Belisvillr lias 1.? 000 different wheal Vari-
eties, gathered from all parte of the world.
By the end of I$52 every one had rteen
screened for uerrn pla>m resistant to the
scourge. The tests include sending new strain*
of wheat to Smith America, where even moreviruh-nl rusts sue racing.
Pbnl dtH-ase* may be mused hy limgl
virus infections, barler'tn. «t nmutrides.
Kemalodes that prey on fdants ocist In the
soil as micmscvpic wrarrnHfee organisms. Sprue
t}-pes are beneficial to m^n. such as ihowifaat attack insect nests and others thai helpbreak down animal and vrjretnhle matter Fn
the earth. But others are hiuhly destructive
—for example, the golden nematode, dreadeil
by potato growers.
InfeMlrin ik'lds, baurmful varieties attach
plant roots, sap itielr strength and vitality,
and leave cmp* strirkrn (page 217 UNemaMtftfl are anionu the ]»aidie>t and
most rumerous IHing things in the world In
laboratory lests some cstt survive tem|*rrattires
uppniaching absolute wro, '4$fk6** di^crres tie-
low normal zero rm the Fahrenheit scale.
Tbey have tieeu found tn .'\marctk moss.
Qtbrrs have been lndd Airmant up to 39
yr.m, then heated almost to the boiling point.
Still thev survived.
Nmw Crops from t\io Wild
Yet in recent years basic research at Belts-
ville and other U. S. nemaiiKlc laboratohrs
liii^ resulted in commercial development of
new mil chemicals able to control these minute
enemies of the farmer.
plirtt dL*eiises cornetimes bring an entirely
new farm crop into brim- 1 'hestnut trees of
Ihe United Stales once provided the leather
{Text cmfinurd on page 2tJ)
Boston Likes Rruwti Ej«*fNew York Prefers While; n Hclinville Gud&vi SorLs TUl-iti
SdcncL- *i>rL« for belt» Hvliis? on lh< Ltepartnuait nf Aftt-Jmlturrs MAOO-acrc csju-rfinwiml furm in MaryUm!. Thism.irhinc dTujiln'ri (be jKolikm ni uuhnrm psckasmp: Its photneboctrk crSfe wta turart&ig to color.
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Atomir ny-prudtiotB Fin J PimciMimeL ws in Aifn'culruritl Research
I hi? iintlrTKruiirHl irmw-fh rhambrr riupHrniM sun-HRh1 irliGi Ully flv frillcru-luft fhr mwmvnt (if "hoi"Itnvm—ratUuuctiv'r Uotupr*—ah*ujrliril with trrtfiurrv
km cAii mulw flu* fcrilltiSE and urnwth piocci«aof plantv
i LinSii, Visible unJ Invisible. <LmernUfive Life Cycle nf Plmift
PrllM'fllc 3rantr*J that ttH: varying riurMlori ol dark-no** acid the cnfnr nf Uaht cnnE.ro] phut! U-havtnr.t.'slruE n ciam spectrum. H. A- Burihwlrk llcill «n<]S, B. Hcnilrnkt iKxtwrrccI thai nil ligtil rrtard* !fac
To enable farmer* in dry regions tn RrowtanaiRtr, hi«h-yielrjiruj plant* arc betas; se-
lected from the wild and domesticated In
effett, I'nrle Sam's plant breeder^ an* iloiiui
what ihr first farmers siurted with trorn andwheat perhaps 3,0Ctf years agtK—devel»ipmE a
new cultivated i ta\y—-hut m a few years tn-
<leiid of thousands.
A wild relative of cotton found in the
mountains of Arizona has opened the wayfor niittHi breeders In develop a new three*
way hybrid with fibers unlike any other cotton
mite *»mwn in this cuunlrv, I iaw thi!*e (\\n*tn
at Beluville; ihey are 50 to 7 S percent
stronger than stiirulard upland varieties nf The
Cotton Bell, ami 20 percent stronger thin
Egyptian long-staple cotton.
Plants Trawl the World
Today there are few domesticated plants
anywhere in the world that liave not been
letted in this country for their agricultural
possibilities, a Bcltsvifle official I odd me. tlx-
plorers still search ihc globe 1or wild strains
whose eerm plasm miithl improve i mps here
at home. But most traffic, is the other way."Nowadays/' the scientist sairi\
* L
t"in;te Samfends 10 plants abroad, to be planted byfarmers in other countries, for even' one wefind oversea and bring home.'*
The amazing power of the drug cortisone
final nsl rheumatoid arthritis ha* sparked a
world-wide search far a plant from which the
medicine miftht lie nude. So far, cortisone
has been made for Commer* lal ux- from an,n ill foond in lh<- bBfl Of j.iIiIi- .i -huh.- ffltf
too limited for the demand. But plant mate-rial may soon l»r used-
At the Glenn Dale, Maryland, CS. Plant
Jntrndurtion Garden near Bellsvillr, exotic
vtnrs ami "ihrr teafy iaunigrams from Africa.
Mexico, and South America crow in long
Krcenhouses painted white la shield plants
from the full summer sim-
''t'hemists now eet cortisone from materials
found in many plants/' my guide explained.* JOor problem k In find one economically
profitable for farmers to wr-ow."
Niviieji^ wrrr virittttilj unknown fn thi*
country' until pl.nd explorers brouirht newstrains from the Orient. Now grown on
IS million acres in the United States, they
yield vegetable and industrial oils, animalfeeds, flour, plastics, and even the foam used
in fighting themtaii Srcs.
Korean lespedeju. introduced In 1919, ranks
03 a multimillion-dollar forage crop across
the siiuth-tt'iilral /ami region of the Nation.
Ladino clover from Italy, rre*ted wheat crass
from Sil»eria. durum wheat? from southern
Ru^ia limfw»ned years a«o before the Iron
Curtain shut off exchance of plants with Soviet
lundsi, titng nuts, axticados the list <>f valu-
able Etfi5 whidi far-traveliug American plant
explorers tuive brought to this country is
almost endless.*
Agriculture is built on ifrass; The irreat
fund t'h>[>> (»! ihr world are grass—corn, wheat,
rice, millet, barley, oat*r sugar cone. Grossmeans also the vast variety of meaduw and
pasture crops which sustain graaang animab.
Dflir) Re^nrtli Pn» Mi^iiKod*
Tn a scrubried, cleun-smellint; calf burn 1
was inftiatpd into Heltsv die's dairv* research.
"Our n^ost valuable possession is not whatwc put down in scientific reports." a rattlp
breeder told me. "but what we have ui our
barns/*
For 33 years a prur herd of Molstcins andJerseys has been built, usinji seven generations
of bulls with proved ability to transmit high-
milking potential. Fmm tht- e%ptfriment hawtonw new *taTidards for choosing dairy sire*.
Today s nationwide artificial bleeding pro-
grams ate based largely ufM>n ihr prnwd-sireprinciple.
i "T-^rhrnviing «-i Hairy CAttfa 'n- ai B4Atp
ville in 1°39. in the wake of tlie spectacubir
success stories ol hybrid cornrswine, and
poultrj'- To many dairy farmers, proud of
their pedigreed herds, crossbreeding a cowstill seems 10ic rank hereby. But BeltevUk's
crosisljTeeduu; ha> pro-hurrl ama/iiiH rrsallv
measured in higher milk yields and hybrid
vigor.
Hum[t--dimiJdrred cnitle are common on die
ratine, but not in U. 5. dairy barns. At Belt>-
ville. however, I found a bull of a foreign
milking breed tlaal may well revoltnfoniKe
southern dair>-ini;. Housnl rear j hujae Hobstein, he seemed almost n mvlfcri. But his
burnished rcrJ-hlack coat and hkh. >kin-foIdeil
hump marked him as a tnre aristocrat far
from home—a zebu hull* prince of the sarred
cattle of India.f
• S«. in tht N.HH1N41 (ir.H.n.irinr At a* mini"How Ftuit Curmr l» Amrriui." by J. R. Marn^n,Stoptembfs, !«#!.; jiai! 't hir V wtuhrr Trffveli-n," \r,
Victor \L BomB, August, }949Sfl' ' Thi' Tftaifte W«rid: CaltJr mil Thoir Place
la th? Hunuu Schifiif—Wllil T\|h*» and MtidrrnHnt'if* in M.inv I-inds." )jv AI 1-"' l-Smv.iil >-im Ut* .
\*rpjKM Ott-irai^prrp- M«-*iprr ( December. IW*.
2H The National (jtogruphic Muga/ine
Scientists Ivilfow tla\\ I orrun drupes from Vjnu to Market
TraibportatKin experts from fc'HsvtTk, tMIim prnducr uiins rout to toast,
krr)i tnniiiiii.il rhrdt *m trmpenlurM »lnrini? sliLpmenl. TherinocMUpiw transmitinmllnr* In data nlu«Eci| In on the roof* of rri iterator «M
^The dairy cow has
been duhbed the foster
mother til the humanrace/
1
a scientist told
roe. "But a famous
Wisconsin editor once
said that the darkest
place tm earth U the
inside uf a cow.'
What the editor
meant, of cuune, was-
thai science still know*little about the Hie
processes that takeplace insi-He farm ani-
mals. At the RrwirchCenter physiologists,
bacteriologists, and
chemists constantlyseek new way* tn thmwlight into Litis darkness.
They study Iwinereproduction— whut
causes sterility in cows,
whai effect hormones
have in caMng and
milk production.
Twin tlulve* Euuiil
t> Herd
One heifer calf in
every three thnl farm-
er* ifed to adulthood
falls to pay her keep.
N ever producingeiuntzh milk, she mi'shl
better have been turned
into veal. BcltsviJlc sci-
entists hope to find a
way u f forewllinir heif-
ers" fortunes by meas-
uring the Immaturemammary glands i»f
calves even as young
as four nvnrtths*
"This-b a purebred Red Sindhi/" I was told.
"Because summer beat holds down productionof milk herds in the South, wc brought in
four beat-resistant Simlhi- Ity crossbreeding
we're trying LQ «ct a strain »( rimy cattle that
ran stand the swclterinft surmncrs of the GulfStales."
A special heat chamber tests Red Sinrlhi-
Jersey and Red Siirdhi-Hulstein offsprmp for
resistance 1*» scurcmng weather SL\ hoursat u lime, at 105 ' F. and In bO-percent humid-£ty, their reactions arc measu red. Amoiut othernecessities the tws wear respirators like jjh$
masta and landed wfrffig leading 10 automatictemperature recorders (pages JW, 206).
Beltsvillc's herdsmen
often " *ee doufde"—anil it's no illusion. Since
1950 farmers have been asked tn sell l! ntlc
Sam identic*] twin calves to serve in feeding
and nutrition experiment?-
Such experiments Iuivp a practical use. Whenwestern names are deep under wirier snows,
stranded cattle find little ^rass for week? or
even munths. Far behind normal prowtli
when spring come?. how shnuhl they be fed
to put meat on their ribs quickly?
Geneticists say that one pair uf identical
twin*, whose birth may occur only once in
one t" Iwo thousand divings, fa as useful ex-
perimentally ns 25 less closely related calves.
W it Ji identical twins all inherited character-
Bcltsvillc Bring* Science ro the Farm 215
Ulfcs ate the route: any differences in growth
must lie4 til i* to environment or feeding.
I saw rmc iwin rhnt wan l>ig ami hntwlsome,
while his brother vga a scrawny nurt. Thefirst had been fed a full ration, while Ihe ucher
received only enough to stay alive.
Afler mk months the worn! calf h full-frcL
Scientists then measure how much time andfeed n tukes to bring ihe aninuil up m weight.
Streamlined plgA jjrow in lieJi.wilic swineturns. Seven new strains have been developed
Ihrrr by ^elective hnrcditifr thrnuuh the- pa*t
IS yrars,
Six nf ihe new strains are based uponcT'f55r--» with rhr Danish luindrare breed. tiach
is hmurr, leaner, and mure meaty than ihe
American hog of old. yielding le*,* unwantedbrd ami more p*»rk. ham. and baron.
Hreedent have even produced dark-skinned
Wws chni won't sunburn. Their appetites
slay keun and their weight up, even In the
hottest summer sniri.
In line barn hugs may eat as much as they
want. 2-1 hour* a day. Contrary to the cliche
thai condemns "eating like a pte. " scientists
lind that Ihe hog never overeat*.
Turlnr-oiiskin^ IIl-Iih illo'« Turkey
Heltsville is perhaps lx>t known fm its
iiniiersutrd lurkry hen I 10 answer housewives*
demands fnr a hini that would fit today's
apartment-M/e refrigerators, small oven*, andsmall famiNe? (page
The compactness of the Retaville Small
White turkey b Ihe secret of Its soccerAlthough it crows to little more lh;tn half
the Wright ol targe gobblers, it> lirea.*! 1.* Imudand heavily fleshed, and the drumsticks are
twin MMWl and plump. Its quick-maturing
finalities and good fireedipg record make it
|M»[iiihir with tirow'rrs
The inside of an egg is of top importance
In iwruhrvmen. Devotees of poached eggs
want a thick white la cover the y»lk uni-
form I v lint if lb*' hniKcwife funds a blood
spot, -he shte* like a frightened hor**.
Efte candliruc is still done by dexterous
packer> who twirl each ej!ii hi front of a
powerful listhl. At Bel Isv ilie 1 saw a newdec Ironic randier, slill under development
siijihtrrt variation in the coltir of their shells
from pure white through vnrinus shades of
bmwn '|>age 201 ),
The machine got confused only when engi-
neers ran through a few light-blue eg^s nf
thr Aramana chicken of ihile. The ctfgs were
whisked Into the liKht-Lnmn luiskef—not aserious mistake, since chickens which lay
naturally colored Plaster eggs are & breeders*
rarity in this Eountry.*
A Succvt of Growth fruro Chickvii Feed
la lung, low puultry houses at Beltsville
ulirnvkulet liuhts hurti alJ flight. Installed
iiriL'inally for their i>erm-ki3ling power, the
dim blue tubes we re -o n found to Lie boosting
Qtfi pr(jrluc1ii.ui. Scientists Kill aren't sure
why. This ultraviolet "prorlilTne" is distinct
from Ihe egg 'laying stimulus of ordinary in-
candescent light, a technique lann familiar to
poultrynwiLResearchers knou by recent eifwrience that
^tariiin^ rltscovtrirs sntnet imes come from such
»«nuil| cjues- A few years ago the hunt for ahotter chicken fetnJ put scienitsts on the trail
r*f a new vitamin with amazing power to pro.
mote growth k
Purine World War 11. animal-protein feeds
such as fish meal or sJaugliterhouse scraps l>e*
eanie orarcn Soyl)ean*oi1 meal, rich in pro-
tein, was >uhsttluted on poultn.- farms. Ntuade a nourishing feed, hot something wasfnissing. If ni> animal protein was present,
the hat« hahitity <»f Pi?gs dropped, and chkkea^crew too ^liswlv.
Because the first stomach of a cow is knownto manufacture vitajnins^ experimenters a<ld«J
a little dried mw manure in the \tii\ Sud-den.ly birds thrived. Chemist* found a growthfactor in the manure, hut it was none of the
known vitamins.
At that (mint a pharmaceutical firm. MerckiK Co., announced its discovery of vitaminB-12 The ruby-red nysTafs could jrrently
siimulate growth, ft reported, BelLsville tried
Brti on chickens, and it was found to be the
mi^inv fai tur
s\s little as 18 billinmhs of an ounce of
B-12. injirnied into the fertile egg of a henfed a diet deficient in the vitamin, producesastonishing resnlt> in newly luinhei] docks.At the age of five week* they are nearly twice
the sue of brother and sister cMcfca hntchedfrom untreated eggs.
Barrlin^ Aniinul Aibiunts
More rcieiitly. fcMiraMri in many labnra-Inries discovered that some of the miracle-
workirn: antibiotic* stimuhife animal ami poul-
try g^Owtq, Today aureomyctn, lerramycJo,
and penicillin are Iwinii arhlei.l to feed* in
minute quantitjes. Baby clucks and youngpia* ffrow faster and fatter on such wonder-dru^ feed,*.
culture was to fight livestock diseases, manyof which rouhl be trunsniim-d to titan. AtBcltsvuV's Animal I dst-a^-r Station, no a li 5X1 -
lop tinted by j high lence, the worst plague*
known to American Uirro are studied,
BTUt"ciloffisf for dm, catises the ln*s of someS2 5.000 calves and a billion pounds of milk
C-ach year. In human Ixme* the illness fa
known as uncJuliint fever.
Muni Test Spot* fkao4« Diwase
At the disease station I watched a tech-
nician make tJir milk-ting test, most widely
ilmmI procedure on whole milk for detecting
brucellosis, abo called Band's disease. Inabout twci hours a purple ring formed fit the
top of the it 1*! liibt*, showing (he milk hodcom* from rattle infertH witli the diseasc.
With this simple test receiving depots canI'hei'k fin ir v herds try taking sample* from
cans of iheir mmliinrd milk. If ihr trst is
p05i1ive, blood-sampling the herd isolates the
diseased cow.
In another laboratory vaccine* were being
prepared and tested. Tlverr is no known cure
for Banff * disease, but rmmunircitinu of c»nlr
with such vaccines as Belt wile's Strain 19
i* helping to stamp it nut,
BeltsviUr's ftmtofpcal Dfvfe5o« battle* the
multitude of parasites that piey ail animals—protozoa, nematode:., 1n[M*woniis. lire Fromwork done there I S years ago lias runic a revo-
lutionary drug named phrnoihi<reine. First
tested as an in^evTicidr, it is rniv sn widely
utilized to conmil interim! parasite* of farm
animal* that foni million pounds of it are
used annually in the t'nited Stales*
Man apficared to have trained ;i victory over
insert pests wheal DDT hurst b'kc an atomic
Ih^iL in the inseel world. But the enemies
did not nive up Tin las iheie are files, mos-
quitoes, and rrgikpwchr? that lutiah at doses
nf DDT and wthrr new jriHec.tir.kfcs whichonce would have meant I heir death.
New Weapon* for Farm Wurfaro
Men who study insect immunity at Be!t5>
villr siy it I?- not merely a nuitlex of the Hit-
viva I of the fittest, with each new genera-
tion resulting in tlie* of greater resistance.
They are certain that ?ome liasic physiological
change or unit.o Ion Likes pLire in insects,
making them imrminr To once-deadly doses.
Against such acquired hardiness newer andmore potent insecticide* have joined man's
battle tu protect his food and Tiber.
I watched * worker m a flit* mu^k applying
pttrathioti to a field of strawberries at Hells*
ville. Brhmd a brfehi-rrd tractor white dust
billowed like a suuoke screen,
Vshjb of the new ptrepliorus sprays anddusts such as paratFiinn mttatl wear jjas laia-k-,
and protective clothing under harard of EBOCJS
or death. These poisons, iMrnendal by-pro-
duct? "f World War II research in (lermany,
ate closely related to the fa called "nerve
gases."
We iter live Streets inside glass tanks U>
trbt hmilhing lillrw." said n scientist whodesign:* and checks protective masks. "Often
it's the only way to detect extremely small
amounts of poinm in I tie air."
Other new insecticides, safer fur u«r in
homes and garden*, are criming from KclT?»
vllte. One Is a substance similar in chemi-
cal prqierties to the active ingredients of the
pyrethrum Hotter, amonv man s oldest insect
killers and still one of the roost effocttv*.
Allt'thrin rhc mau-nmrle product, is now on
the market.
Chinu Setidi \u MThuti*kr God fr
Even newer is a famik of |Miteiil insect
poisons isulatcd at Belts%ille turn nwHs of
Chinas "Thunder (faff* vine. T'iptrrywuwu-'illwrfii H<H)k. They knock out ten colonies
of Bs?rii/ullund pests at a strength, of only one
pound to 2,000 callous of >pnty ^lutLnn.
Thunder God w aJrradv Ikritiji grawn at the
Glenn Dale Introduction tiardcn; H may beanother U. S. cmp of wmnrnnr.
In Beltsville's greenhouses I sow plants that
can bite hack at injects. Si-c ailed "sy*cemic
iiiHvtici'des, the unrest weapon of enn>-
moloiiistsr are absorbed from the soil into the
sap stream, Tiny mcktns insects aitncklnc;
such plants are poisoned by the very leaves
00 which they feed.
Flmver-. r.irnaimntTal shtub>. and cottor
plants have been made largely Insect-proof
wilh the^e new compounds. So ffltt3because
tht&MS ayatonir. poiyins break down slowly,
they cannot be used on food crops.
Agricultural science din** not Mop at the
farmyard £nte: research rruches jtfrn'rrs*
.shelve* through study of better transportation.
^Lorage. and marketing methods. It Mim hes
our <iaUy meaLs, our clothes in the closet, the
reiri^eiator and wa*hiim nuchine, even the
soap iwl in I he washinfl iikaithine.
Nutminn M icntttts 5tudy lona-term efiecLs
of vurinu> diets on health by fewim^ differetit
f»hn.ls i" ml?, Thry dnr'liciitc human diges-
tion in test tubes and Ikr&kcr* tu learn bow
the body utilises protein*.
At Beltfi'ille are the chief GovernmentLiWntories stodyini: textiles and clothing,
foixls. co*»kery and h"me canning. Mousingspecialists design belter farmhuiises,
Belt5viBe experts ride pnxiuce trains from
mean to ocean across the Purled States chec k-
ing how fruits and vegetables respond to
various methods of protection and packing .is
they travel thrnuijli the bitter cold of a Dakota
Belfsvillc Brings Science to the Farm 217
winler nr the hruiline
heal of ft Texas sum-mer (page ;H).Laburaiaries dupli-
cate Ihe in>ide of cold-
ftfrtrapr planLs. refrig-
erator cars and mtcfc*,
and the holds nf ships
In one laboratory I
saw a complete gro-
cery store where the
shelf life of fruit* andvc^dribles is studied
(page 207). In Anoth-er, fmnls for CtEtmtng
arc injected with spuil-
atcc organisms and then
luoked varying length*
nf lime, measuring the
efficiency of dEiTerenl
cannine methods.
-U» Plenty #i
Con Manure**
neltsville's *oil La far
frnm perfect, but that
very fact hits hromtlii
benefits.
When ihp ilrdstiih l«i
establish a Federal ex-
perimrnl Matbtt near
Wuhfagtofl was made43 years aitn, Dciwrt-menf «if \urtnilluic
agent? wen I nut dressed
a5 farmers to avoid a
Sudden inflation in
rural real estate.
They lt»ked at land
near Beitsville. whichthen wa> (ikr nut of
Washington bul near arailroad.
"Xot fertile enough/*ilwy reined- "Theland is cheap, but ii\
5Ni.ll ll tlH*4 (Willi* rifc*t'JlkIi|l«f Ram lIUl
Ntriwiiodc-iufcfcted Soil Play* Havoc with a Healihy Cairo t
Pttfa^Lic FivauUcttr*. (>r tmirnlw^inm, prry on both plinth ami iinlinalw (MM'0*1 Dr. LntUhnhl SHfirr HcllnilW1 nenulokifriu. *liuiir* a mien "futile nml-knot iM'tiutitdc ihut i. tiubc. t'jll" tii f 1.1 rin ll a carrots.
veni'i nit.
The Secretary >4 Aurinilture, James Wil-son, blfrw up. "Anyone can grow a crop unjptrnl land!" he roared. "Buy it, and useplenty nf ioW mitrutrc!"
HU wisdom paid dividends. From Belts-
VSUfc once poor field* and pastures have comebetter croji-mtaliou, soil-improvement, andfertilising prm-tiees.
The plant and snfl ^imiist* use 1.7D0 acresto lest iiimv wavy of workmc land without los-
ing it tn eroding water and wind. Krowon-resistant plants frmn foreign lands are niitdird.
On huge carrinrxuphic layouts, aerial photo*graphs are. translated ifllo snt] survey and Out*5cr\'Alioo maps fur farmers.
A few years a*ro. when scientists of theMonsanto Chemical Company discovered the
remarkable soil conditioner called Krrlhim.
they look the palr-yellr.w powder lo Belts-
ville- It was tested at field station; in Cali-
fornia, .Alabama, Tennessee, Pennsylvania,
ami Wbconsin.
Chuniicat "Hinnns" (ainnsicrfi Soil
On hanl linked alkali tlaU und in (hick,
ffiimmy clay the tests proved Krilium acua* effectively a* or^ajne mailer in keeping
wil in a crumbly stale.
The conditioner turns heavy, "difiiculi " Spil
int""> I'Hise. eaialy worked rurth thai sh»n*s
«jg \«t!mj) fit— In ilw Plwl-wTinhnr J.fcn K t\i
Ai-ro*oj Spray*. BcImyjIIc'* Invention, Isolde Inwxr Srouimuy* from Abrtijd
A Public l-lt-jlih Scrvhfl a&ca droftt I'm Atntrti in WWId Airw»y» wwardewf nrniarT buic-lciilinp
pruHL-duit Bt'tarlUe fnroirmlinriM'. who irav* the world Ihc pu.«h-butt<m •t»r«y cam now a«o oVvriitp-in?
Mrikioc improvement in ^'p! ^eniiuiaiion
.mil irnifi yield? TnHay "ru-rul *-td .•<mli-
Ikmrf? |Crve greener thumb.* in millions of
American i^irrlen Invrr*.
In L\ 5. limhtrlaTHls imlay inneeis rank
with fire n5 <le>trovers of furc*!?. Ke]li»ville'<
insect fishier? sect beIter weapons in ivmlnil
forest |»r*i5.
Air Sprny* Rmn Timber Thieve*
From the Brltsnlle airport Natii.iMai tiro-
QKAtWlT | iliMiciffrapli^r Jink Fie tt her ami I
took -if! with a furestcr-pilnt in a bright-yellow
rivet writhes down McKinley s >lnpes be iweenrock cliff* thousands of fert high.
Our expedition had a threefold purpose;
first, to test ray theory fchat M«Rinley's Wttfl
Buttress actually offered a shorter, safer wayio i lie tup than the usual route up the north-
east ^tile; second, To study the geology of this
Uerrundoti- mass of rock; ami third, to do
essential survey work for a new large-scale
map of the arn imniedi.iicjjf nrouuri M<iunt
McKiulcy. FVirl of this map |«MbU<hed for
d)e first time m this issue of the NationalQKOQiuaVitic Maca/isi (payts 2*6- 237).
Our undertaking was sponsored by the Uni-versity wf Denver, the University of Alaska*
and Muslim1
* Museum, of -Science.
MiKuiley";* distinction a?* our continent's
hi^he^l mouutm alow would justify auiking
a map of it. In addition, it i> I he in. tin feature
of Mount McKintey \atimud Park, which is
attracting increasing number* of vishors now(hiiT the famous \ln>ka liiichwny hns madethe country accessible by automobile.*
Impnrianl, loo. is ihe foci that McKiniey'iheight and position, only 250 miles smith of
the Arctic Circle, tmki- it in ideal laboratory
for many kinds uf scientific researt:h*
Arctic Equipment Tested Here
During World War IT three military expedi-
tions used its high slope* to test clothing,
equipment, and food for rumps and planecrews operating in extremely cold climates,
Mt Klnley's height* also provide a lookoutfor observing tosmii rays, which constantlyimmbard the enrth from outer space.f
It furnishes a fine t>ppur1 unity hit weatheroljserv.itkm, tests of the eBcct of a decreaso In
oxygen on the hnm;ui liody» anil higlvfre-
t|uetii*y radio research.
Tt was to make thl$ great h.if.ural l-iboratorj'
easier to reach lhat we were seeking a better
roule t<9 ihe lop of McKiriley and preparing adetailed map "f its *Ii»pe?;and rfaeiers,
Terry Mohtc(who was going; to try to land
me on Kahilina Glacier, is tint wily an experi-enced bush pilot but w;m ;dso |iresidcnl ni theruivei'Mty of .\Ja3ka (hr relirerl This 5inonier).
If we could land successfully, hr w»is to leaveme there with a miwIi radio, camped on asmooth mow plateau. After this it should not
prove loo difficult to By ha to the dacier campmy first three compantun*, E ir Henry Buch-tel, Jamef K. <i«k\ and L'^pt. WUiiam I>.
ITackctL, Willi ibe radio T could tell them be-fore they even took off what the weather wnstike at my end of the line.
kahili oj &ackr is one of the brgesi in iheAlaska Karate and one of tiie nm^lmt. Tohelp u« find our way up it, wt* li.td with us a
The Author: ftr. Hradlnrd W^^hlium i* a ni>UiTmountain rqiWun mul il.r^o.r el !hc Muumoci ofScii:ncp in Himun, M»MiidiuH'Uv Re hn* iracheij Ok"irrrraJi Mount 5frRicJi:> jhrcif limes, and Mr-W.iJiburn i« in iar the iinly wrimsm in bus 4 {limfwlIt. For other mcriini^inrcrinp .irtscltn l>\ t*t. Wash-burn , %f€ Ihf tWO-ValLuiJtll \ATIn\it r.r IPIIH
MarAmr Cumulnilvr livJn ts^'»t^^.V
• Sw ' WildUle of Mount Ml Kuvley Na |ion»1 ParW.**
|mce» in Ihii iisur
f Sit fc,
Tro«infl Coumtr tUy% in Gu*fc4) Nmth,"hv Martin A Pummntl, \*rmv4L n£ix»A?1lir
MAOAnyiL, Junuiirs'. **U.
220
A Rubber Mountain *h..vvs (he Way ir.t Lolly Cnrttr* m Mourn YlvKinlcy
At a auiik to Air Force ptTot> ro dnmptorr nippiiej to climbers higfc on McKinfryN rushed »H»pei,
RrulfuM Wuthbaiti and bb Iwh iipff dauirhti:r rrniilr tblj tmulrl D^iif* tlw pri-ejuitwo. one drup jtnunt
proved dna*i »pU4 (fiae* £tj Hot at Chuttuu. iO tnifei suuthrul ul the bin peak, the author explain*
t« an E*iimo nudirmr hi* t"l.in |o approach MtKEnW* wetucro Incp by pUrv.
<eTie* i'[ .u-riiil phutographs nf Mourn McKrn-
ley which I had taken for the National Geo-
graphic Society and Harvard I'niveraty in
19^6^8, and mi and -
Beneath us n>* wi' ilew. the surTnce of the icy
was al fir*i so limkcii that n»lbing could
>ihrv have landed I here, not even a helicopter,
Tbr fclncier's snout wa? binm under ma*.** ol
IikV -niil gravel. Some* boulders, win- i% hip
oi bunjralo^S piled helte^fkelter in henps
tump Than a hundred feet Wwh.
The valley wall*. :-heer r*xU rid^e*, towered
above us ori both >Jdes Wo (ft* between ut
round llo.ir of pliuul ite and i s4tfj Ieiline
of dark. bIowiiv' (..)£ 2,000 feet alwve ui. Uwas likr" Hying thrown a gigantic tutmel.
However, the cloud ceding .seemed nearly level,
while tbr »er t limited -Irudily. If the Iwo
met. we would be mil ut hick. JQwrfi ihe
valley made a sharp bend to the fight.
As we turned the rocky corner, a arcat rifl
split the cloud* ;is if h\ mai;ic Before U*-
soared lb* thrilling viigin peak of Mount1 1 unlet-, while beneath a mantle of fresh «now,
A Daring Hn*h Pilot and University fVtoddciM Kiev ihc Explorer* In
On m fihiifit InnrliRR jlrip at 7,700 fcrt« Or Trrri* Mnonr IMil »tan<i* Itfterr hw Utile pUnr wflh Pu<1i-Irl. Ihr auitvm. Harkriv nn.| C.ulr Tjili r Ihr flyer dMppcri in (of tcu at I0JCQ rtlurtiMi^ in U™ lota fuvulK mcctinc at Itw fnlvrr^r «f Ala-ki In Fnirtwoki 2^7'. iJavtiuhi irrniKTinure hnt eadctlJrwn «lishM» dwvr htrntiy t«i about do' F Bnrhtrf mlvc4 the clothinc nrnl>to with juika, long under-wear nml (Mlii'ihn Aiui-sunhqin crf«ro whlTrns lit* lips
became n veritable cataract nf Ire. iwo rntle*
of it to rnu^h it would have been utterly im-Ihi-v*Ii!k' mi fool except along it* rdues.
Then the fickle weather look a Him for the
WOrst. I idimpser] l7.M5.fiNU Mount ftira-
fcrr'? icy cone, known tn natives ** 'Hena!!'*Wife.** lowering up Iwlween masses of ctoud*.
Then the mists rolled in anil a solid wall of
fojt L lulled uut thr valley ahead. Our progressblocked, we circled Impatiently.
Spotlighted n* n Landing
Without warning the break came. A Tiny
paich nf blue sfcjf appeared above, and a shaft
of sunlight bcjinn to move slowly across the
gkti'ier toward ihe sprit where we wanted to
land. We followed ft, circling, for is was mov-ing only ludf us fast as we were. As thi* '"?pot-
liirltt" crossed the valley, we took our thame.Tbc snow below us appeared |>er/e^l—no
bumps, no hollow*, no creva«se$. lerrv Moorecui the throttle, lowered the flap*, and brforf* I
could brlievr ii we were ddoimrruj; the iilacirr.
1 hen we settled for a perfect landing.
$| sooner were »e down than Ihe sun wa*gone a<sun. tt MS 6 a clock. eraaly one hourfrom Chrlatha. There was no time to lope.
We pitched my supplies out on the soft smnr,lifted tile plane's toii around, and faced the
craft down the gentle slope.
Willi a hasty harnbhake and a 'Sn lona,.
panner." Terry dirubed aix-anl. A roar and i
swirl of .Mum and he was off. f heard *hr
drone of the motor for a minute or two. thru
it died away, ;md I wits alone. 7,700 feet upIn The heart of the Kahillna amphitheater,close under McKinlcy's flanks It was so quiet
I roohl hear my heart beat.
It began to sthov lightly The rocky spunfailnl inln ihe fop, and even*thine about me'm all sides, above and below, was white. Anhuur before 1 had bren 40 miles away ;it
Chela tna Lake: now here I wu« a third nf the
way tip Mount UcKinley?All this was possible iweaunc Trrry Mm jit"*
plane wu* equipped with aluminum skis thai
could lie r;uM-i1 hydraulitatly above ihe wheels
bir tuke-*trT on tlu- travel at Chdutna Lake,then lowererl for landimc on (he snow.
A later shovel Is a necessity in a glicter
Ciirrit*- With mine I had in half an hour nlevel spot due CWt f<JT my 7-bvT fnot irni.
Mejawliile. I 5el snow nwlllng onvr a lfaso-
Unv stove. For a month our only fuel would
ft
,
'
, Mask a
Kit \1rVi-li.'7U--**
.1C IMA
Fairbanks is
Aftndtiinunu IKvrr
-v.
McM*tho
JurvffiJ* *S mi'c»
Attn ofnrw tor
Mt.McKinlvy, NcrihAmerica'*) highest p*aV.
alsvfttion 30300 fpet
/ /
far r/i« Ant
t lit I I fl I Mi
ft.
^ I'ljgiifcnu— J V*
1
Biuii n. I mi «ri Inn t tlinumi
Among National Park* Only YeHim*turw U l-ui^r than MeKinJe>
A broad reach «l w4Wcrnwii 'VM «l n»-d» in 191 i W loon AlmkiT* «n-«1
wildlife rcfutf*. ikuw more than ijDOO wjuiur miks In rslcht. Stuirfiwvi r«would tfaiM h<n».M (f.Mii i'atiiocnLiis Whiinr? li*M<35 icrO Iw iWOO-
iool -MiKbifcy »» hiobr-it mountain in the ViuU'd Suites.
Ub i-.iHhtim- am! "ur 'inly s*-.4r-:e of water
melied snow. Unfortunately, snow water L* sn
tlal in taste that drinking it Is a real effort.
Need More Liquid- <«n Ueiilhi*
At high altitudes climbers must double '.IT
ttiplr their Intake of fluid to offset ihc rie-
hydratino thar rcsulu from hrc-^liiTiff deeply
thf rstri-Tniiiy dr\- «h*. Tht' ni'«l for lti|uUU
pvw constantly more prising ihe hi>!lnr weclimbed. We carried pcnrtlervd fruit juk'u to
diss-vlve in out wuiit to nwkr il mart pttlftt'
able, and also drank iir|(c «iu;iJilirfes of frozen
fruit juice drupfwd IuHt bv plane.
After u bite lu tart nnd some 1>gi teaf I
turned off the stove in vivr flasn!inc Po'en
ihwiRh Ihc irmfjcrnlurr WAS only 10' F. As
roar died, I whs in-
ffiantly ijfivlal by ihr
gentle patter of simw*ilakefi on the lent. In
ihc total silence nf the
Ivciffhts fvpo feathery
snr.iwlbike* ttiake a per-
i.rpiiblu sound falling
oa TwtI roofs. Poking
my head wat the draw-
string en trance, T was
astonished lo **e the
rocky cliffe of ilcKin-
le>' quite clearly, with
RahHrna Valley vbible
Ji»wnwuTd f'ir ai lpa4t
nve miles. Tlir suei haddisappeared IxrWivd Ibr
clouds, but the long
nvtlisht of the Alaskan
summer still lingered.
I busied myself mark-
ing our liiilc a-irpon
with all available dark
objects. Tlife Is essen-
tial fi*r bndinu a plane
On smiw wlirn there L?
no sun. no shadow. stD^ihe s-i>iiiiliiy f« mOihenvise. cvrrytbinp
afipeors an even, shape-
ess whhe. All deplli
[>crceplinn is JoWi and
•d> a pil»i nea.t» the
ground hr ha-J ui»lhinc
with which ro gauge his
As the wwtther jilowty
cleared, I hrard Terry
fainllv on mv radio,*
latkina ro the Govern-
ment station at Tal-
ket'tna, some ^0 miles
to the southeast: 'Thi?
is \ 30SS-V he wa»
siyinR. My [Kisition bnow five mile-, north uf
OielrHna Lake, beading
for camp *m upper Kahiltna (jUu'ier."
Al fi:4S TerrvV vuiee booOMXl i»ut loud and
dear : "X-IOtt-A l« SLWW* Can yon see
or hear me? I'm flying ihrou^b dTkrfinu
snow about five mile* below your camp.14 He
was on his way lu- k with Henry BuchtcL
I c&rffM out the door and Imiked down-
racier behind the lenL Tlterc he was, I
cuutd barely htar the pLine's fcelite liulc hum,
I reported, " landing condiiimis maruinal,
filing 3QO-50O feet, absolutely calm. I've
marked a runway,"
Two minutes later lh« little craft ruarcd
ovrr camp and cimte to a perfect landing.
This tinwr the sky l*x»kcd ns if it were
realty ^uba^ lo m«iw in esrnest. \Yc unloaded
Henry'* Rear in a jiffy, and with a cheery
in; -
Footprint* in Rcverw Mark LiploieiV Runic AcniM an Abakan PusaWright cd by ftG-pountl juiltv Biadlorrl WoAfabum "ml his imrty enuht'il Iwo trrt n( tnim tonenfh their
1«hjU > (Mv m*std ltiJoCJ-Jaai Ptjwll Pass, Nrei day wimf rVinvd the pa* of iu too* smnv. nod fhi-IKiUt-rti «fl» fcfi *Uri(lirj? four lu flir jnch&t atime the fcurd «unacc
"See you sewn," Terry was off again into
ihe gathedfki: gloom. Thirty mmucr* later
we heaiH him refiorl I hat he va* preparing toLnul ,it (.Muni, Without Mi skill and <Jr-
lermbiaiinn a«= a bu*h pilot we rnuld not h*ive
been where we were.
\\ C LI lljlM -Htlllttll nil 11 CaluOtT
The weather iSummI rn tiRht. and Jim Galeand Bill Hackett twrt- ^now-bound at Chelaton.The day Builiiel and I flew in. the La5l fmir
numbers of our party. Dr. John Ambler, hrMi'lvin Orifnlhs. Jerry More, ami flurry
Bishop, wi»re nn the Alaska Karlmad. ridingfrom Anchorage la McKlnley I'ark, 80 milr*northeast of ihe mountain. The nexi day theywere 1o drive in Wonder l.*ke, on the oppositeside tti the jirafc (mm us.
While our 4-mfln ream was establishing
[he main base camp near 10400-foui KahilrnaPass anil carrying out our sunn program, thenl hers were to circte the mountain by packtrain frtrtn the north, studying lltr gtmOgy a*i hey progressed Ibty planned lu meel u* at
ba.1* camp *>n Jnne 30 (pages 2.50 anil 24!).Mc Kirileys core is a huge butholuh, «*r mas
of Rranite, whith oozed intci place in the earth s
cnia in molten form. It then rocdrd to. form .i
beautiful pink crystalline rm k. finally exposeda! the siiri-Ke by erosion of the itusL Nearthe top can he seen the point where ihe moltenmaterial met an overlying layer of black .slate.
Once the bottom of a prehistoric sea.
Earthquake- frequently shake McKiiiley.starting Mupendoii* avalanches, but whetherthey represent ihe dying £a=[iN nt (hp force*
that built the mountain ur the bi'izinnini! ofnew upHfts. no one knows.
Red Sky »t Midnuftl
I or two day* Kahiltna Valley was buriedbeneath a den<v of lux and drizzling sww,Then l_bt *feies cleared abruptly, and TerryMoore marie two more swiff rekrye to ourlonely little camp to hrmg in Jim <>ale amiBill Hacketl |pau-e 221).
.V.AI duv *e worked until midnight break-ing I rail up the vast, smooth slopes tit lie
phcier to Kahiltna Pass,
10/00 feet hfeh. We wnwthe first prrstms in history
ever to wtt foot an this
lofty, aiow-covcred saddle
(pope 2531.
Kven at rnldniuht the
northern vky was still a
deep red us twDInht slowly
merged into diiwrj. fcte-
iwk-rn turn* at the shovels,
dispinis a firm base for our
lent in tin- deep, liwse *oow
hi I hp pas*, wc stood catch-
ing our breath and looked
up at the towering pink
cliffs of McKinlcy. Mas-
sive granite walls uf the
Went Buttress more than
a vertical mite above its.
rose w near that they hid
McKinky's summit, 4.JQ0
feet stfll higher and five
mile* farther way.The teni|x*rature w*s 9"
iibove zero. Not the sliflht-
crit wiuml broke the eerie
silence uf the height* cxcepl
our voice* and the steady
thuddirut of the sn"* as we
shriveled. On our Fin*i radio
call we pfcfcftd up ihc CWstation at Talkeeitm, 60
miles away and tquarely
behind the hijfie mass uf
Mount Hunter. The signals
came tfsWgh loud arid
clear. U was a ureal tmtto know thai tint base camp
was assured of reliable
communication with the
ou til iir world.
Wr asked Ta-lkeetna in
telephone the 10th Kt-v.
Sut've-tina; in the SmmIs No Joke
fro The miihin Hfhl«lhr^uirh a Wild Ihroriutitr »i
Kahlttna Pais rU^dltlonmrrahcr HackaC! IwM «<nr*
Diftnultin nt hteh-allUudf «ur-
v<iyiM tnrlwk wind. «fcin?.fulii.
nd the irBccU t>i anori*—ndrncy <j! mypa. t'mhnrtla
th «-»-• thr instruimut.
< Tn ttcra»ly thr th*»«l«dltt,
filler b pouted an>iinri rrir*K)
irif lot Bi» qukkK and
\n»U\% them firm*
1M
Mount MiKmlc* Compared In* a New Ruuu
rut Squadron nf I be Alaskan \ir ("...miormd
in Anchorage. Tell them, we mi id. J hat our
whither was Jierfcet for ihe pirorrnnsed aerial
drop of the equipment we had left with them.Sc.mHy hiid ur i raw led into iilir sleeping
touts, it seemed, when a distant hum awakenedua. Il was ft: JO In Ihr morning, the sun wiwhigh in the tlMidles* sky. ami there, down the
Valley, was the approaching Air Fore* plane.
Jim turned on Uir tadto and at once picked
up u voice: "Air Rescue In k'WO.V* . ( "ail-
ing camp or Knhiltna Ulader. . . Are youreading our signal?"
1 K YVG.u to Alt Remit, he replied Wert!rending yon loud and clear/'
Back Carrie the voice from the plane: "'Well
Im* over yon in aoour iwo minute*. Give u? a
call after we have finished thr first drop andreport how we diiL"
Supplies Hir Wronfi Turret
A* the htfs ( -4 7 loured down only 200 feet
ahoVO IIS, the pilot snmrhoW lnissrd rhr rrrf
cloth marker Uiid WJt on thr snow- 100 yankaway We realised wild Midden horror that
hnndle* and binw flying our the open carxo
door were Manikins directly for our lent!
They showered a round ft, one making a deepi tiller less than BfC feel from (he tent in which
Jim Gale wrw talking oo the radio, II washi-* crwn Ijagnf personal equipment'
ThU near trnijcily iran over cpdrkly wr-
scarcely realized what hed happened. As the
plane disappeared over ihe pass. Jim was yell-
ing into the radio. "Hey* for henvertV sake*
watch where you're throwing that stuff1
Throw il at ihe woirirr, mil thr inn" 4
"Mighty sbny, fellow*,'1
enmc the reply
a* rhr plane circled hevond Ihe pass and llew
back toward us \\V tf« ihe marker now, It
won't luipprn acain!"
This lime supplies came thudding down at
a ViUr distance' tent pole*, survey markers, a
fresh king salmon, nylon ropt, teni pegs.
hirrh'Wand frail markers, extra clothes, tents,
and ftleepliitf bajis. Then name five toads of
breakable supplies by parachute: radio bat-
teries, film, an alarm clock, strive, gasoline,
survey near, even a $mnll nljnrcWtd alcd.
ft Lad Irecn a breathtaking 'half-hour. Wehud nnl yet had breakfast, but more than aton of supplied had already been delivered at
our front doorstep from a warehouse 130 miles
nwa> In the old days iL would have taken
,i 2fl-hor.<e pack train and three wnumlersweek* to move this avid from \mhor;n;e to
the lower end of ihe Krihlllna Glacier, 44 miles
Mow uut camp. From there to where we sal.
rl would havr -m -h a pmdiiiirnis jnb nf
!t.ii L. packing lei mnvr these same supplies I hat
we shuddered even at Ihe thought.
Included in the equipment dropped to us
were 500 pounds of Rirdseye frozen foods,
which we promptJy buried in a natural deep-
freeze cave just outride our front door. Forty-
einht loaves of braid, cadi packed in a puttier
bag, rained dovvn all over our "lawn ", lltey
too were buried and frown. We took loaves
to hiil \%li|i o- wl.cn we wan red to thaw ihemout. On the trail we often carried small caw*
of frown meal inside our cluthing *'> thawthem for lunch.
Ful* Indrec^tihlc at Altitude
Our diet was strong to piotein, which wepot from lean frozen hamhurg and ham, Anample Mipply of frc*h vegetable* and fruit
hetfwl u? forget the almosT total tick of fut
in our rTiei ,11 the hkhest cirrrps. This \ra*
im|»ortani lo out erYiriency on the mountain,fur detrease in oxygen abovw 15.000 feet causes
great dirtjculry in digest uift fai*.
Ivfembcri wf Ihe f'arker-Ftrnwne expedition
of 1912. not realk£im> this, took i|uantiTie* of
(jemmican, rich in energy rmt also very fatty,
This diet caused them <ui h aitute ilfstrew
almve 15.000 feel that they could fcarccly
eat. Irjst strenjith, and unhappily had To turn
liaek in I htfavy storm only a frw hundred feet
from McKmley"* ie»p
A few day5 after ihe ripply drop we all set
out til scale previously uncltmhed ""lVak K."
a snow dome that rose southwest nf camp. Tt
was an easy climb up a rounded ridjrr* buried
under hundreds of feet of perpetual ice and*now. On top we built an ucloo a few yunNfrom our survey inscrummt 9b we coult] ekidge
in for shelter and a cup of hot tea when ourunlets grew ton cold to work the iheodolite
^pnge 22"). Meanwhile, however, it areTr ab-surdly warm, 40 J
F. in the sun, and wt actu-
ally worked in our ?hirt 5lee\'«s.
Jcl* Play Hidc-nnd-Scek
Ai we bwod ourselves rcadioe angles onthe instrument, I heard a curious .worishing
sound far off toward Mount McKiuli'v Ahovetlir tip of the ureal f>eak wrral ttny sil\Tr
flics were pUiyins hidc-and-srek against the
deep-blue sky. Then another appeared, and.mother and Another, till we counted 10 little
^pr<ks Tory were jet tighter plane* from\nchoraife utking ufterniMO men ise aliove
the moturch of North America (jxuee 240\ t
As we stood watching This eslrannlinaryshow, I was rerniadrd ot John Gillespie
Mai!e«. Jr.'s inspiring pavem, JfiqJt F/iqAtt
PVt whrtSirH and *o»ml nnd ovuiu;
Hiari in Ihr smith -dlfnnr. Hni 'rirm Ibrrr.
I've chaseil the vhouiine wind rdotie, *ni*l flum:
daggering q*rd— probably 600 mile an houror more—they screamed over u* srartely 10(1
ieei above our heads. Wr could Nearly see
tiie pilots waving,
(irncrf Lilly they strung upward to the cast.
Barely ;i minute later they had rejoined their
Loniradr*, ac-ven miles aw.n ami nn»re tlun
S.000 feet above us. Thai effortless minute's
climb was soon to Uike us seven days andnights nf nearly constant lull.
As the -iMrruMui) vvnre on, Mack tbundrr-
heads over the lowlands to (he mirth began to
rumble omiiinLLs.lv. ami wr <*w pray streamers
of rain pourinii down beneath them Into thr
darkened valleys below. A breeze broW the
-tillruiMj and, our survey done, we hesiLated
in front of the igloo, worried )est the stormditch us during our descent.
The brecxe grew to a wind, tin? wind to agale, and then the storm hi! us with terrific
vlolejfce. Wr were far above the lightning
and rain, bnl the crest of the turbulent massof rluiid dung a furious hi taunt at us. Weretreated into our igloo and at the wry height
of the howling tempest enjoyed a tranquil
afternoon Ira.
Ati frgloo I* a wonderful shelter. It's ukiI
and -hady on a sunny day; wnmi cosy, andimiet hi the wildest storm; juid it doesn't flap
In the wind. Constant flapping of our 160(4 at
night on previous* trips had caused us to lose
many hours of mudi-needrd *drrfi.
For an hour and a half the bli/Jtard buffered
our retreat. Then, n$ suddenly as it came, the
great eJoud drilled peacefully "ff. the -mi
bum mit. and the wind died diwn in a gentle
breews.
Quid Ifeauty F»lhuv» BIiy.'£iird
\s we started homeward, tiie fresh snow«fittered all about US. Evening shadowsreached armss the western buttresses. To ourleft the wimW lowlands twinkled with myr-iad tiny lakes and streams reflecting the low
rays uf thr SOli, fn thr disherit* we could
hear occasionally the rumble of avalanches.
Al base camp we spent several days in
survey work for the new map of Mckinley.This map began to take shape in 1 045 during
World War 11 1while T was a member of an
Array Air Forces expedition on same of the
|w-afcs near McKinley. There we tested emer-
gency food, shelter, and clothing fur use in
ihe Arctic. To help pass the time, we hadour supply plane drop uj a surveyors transit
to measure the angles between a number of
point* and to determine locations and heights
of manv unmapped peaks.
Two 'years Liter, in 1947, KK.O Radio Pic-
tures. Inc . asked Boron s Museum of Science
ti> help obtain inoLion pictures of mountainscenery M hiirii altitudes on Mount McKinleyfor use in a forthcoming film, At the sametime they nssreed to support our survey pro-gram and other scientific work there-
in cooperation with ua, an Air Force B-29made vertical mapping photographs of the
entire area from 32,500 feet, while we 'lid
ground survey work on Mi Kinlev «- o|>l>er
>]ope= to lir tin- \ni tuns loyrlher. The IT. S.
Goa^t find Geodetic Survey lent us two power-ful Zeis* theodolites.
Su rvcy ine frum J 1cKm ley[
s North nn<
I
Si^uth Veaks had been no joke, On the South
tVak it wits 2D4" btdow zero. Often a gust of
wind bumped my face against the theodolite
eyepiece- Then 1 lud to carry out the obser-
vation all over again after making sure the
instrument had not been thrown out of level
and position.
Surviryjiirf on Brink of Disaster
Thr \1u1h IVak culminated fn a narrowpoint of snow where there was barely room to
< lritr away a level triangle three feel on a side
to r»et up the theixlrtlitr. One carele&s Mepwould have plunccd me down the frightening
Witkrrsham Wall, 14.000 feel high.
In jerial nuipping, two picture- uf the samearea .ire taken 1 few second* apart. Mewwlthrough a sierev*s*ofic, they apfH'ar a.-* one. in
three dimensbns, with slopes, hekhts, itnd
depths .41 vividly evident that accurate con-
tour lines can lie drawn directly from the
photographs.
r*iint dl tivriiEablc data to ax posit »• it- ;imi(
nltitudes, and ^teref^copic picture* fcrr forMrg-
rapby, the U. S. Gcol^picd Survey mappingoffice at r>enver, Colorado, produced a mapon a scale of 3.9 miles to th*' inch. The datato be obtained by the VS. Const and Geodet-ic Survey- and n new -Muyium of -Science partyduring 1*53, with that ua tin-red ijurin« uur
1°5I climb, will jirov^le information for .sever-
al mfle^ti»-the-lnih quadrarude maps. *w»mc ofthis mappinu has already been done, andabYMjt 120 square miles of the central jiorlioii
are shown on the in.ip :iccompanvani» this fir-
tide (puts iithi&iy.No eoinph-te hinje-scaltf ma|i of Moonr
McKhiley has ever been made before.
On the evening of June 30, while we werereturning from a rei onnaL^aiiCe of McKinley '5
237
Ofie Bedroom, No Bath: Low-co»I MoumojJ C^mes Fa*j for Mountain F\plurcr*
Tilinn a iip from thv RiJumos, r%pr*Eclon rocmton "4vrM out" lirnl weather in compart •turrrifiroat
Idoot. Ai the ?.:c*M«al humi. Jim Clulc Utrll Lhu ch* In about An hour with aW'H and «<impa«i vin(Uituit In SHW) 5h.i i»rd hnlUbnc IHocfcf air (ttdunnriT fmra kanl pm ktrl hoiiw. Look tanwr pfjftl mi <miiiilr
Wiwhhum unit oawouritt* by ibc L- S. Gcatagkai Surveyand Ui Wa&liburn from ArrUl |rfial<urrapln taken by him*r*i lH<* U. S: Air Forte. Mckinky *> elevation, :CCW0 irrt.
b (mm Ur WaslilmrnS nWrvanum Furthrr *i|fvty
work hv him ueh3 the C. S Cnatt Mil Ufode-tic Surveyihift uunmirr ttm> alter ihii figure ilSjhily ktllri Hrjuinc4s by- National Gmii;2j|>Ui- railaKmphrr Yk&Qrl J. Kdlry
337
Mount McKinlcy, Firsi Ucpurrtd in tJWft, Win I nennqucrc-d Until 1913
Mount Mckinley's Fronl P.»reh Offers a Spectacular View—but Doei't Full Off!
From a t*rdi above McKinlcy** V2**i Dutlre-*. Jim G»l« 1i>uki *cci>ss tu Moum Uuntrr i tw-ulm. T*Ike «f ibe
lim fri^lii 1 radius I4-5WO utet, N«r here the cXl»>ifjtU<n\ Meheit fsunp *a» wt u|> Ipwse MM,
231
Thuuih 13Q Miles ,\wb>', Mount Spurr Show* Plainly TlirmuSh iho Cold, Dry AWK-iliilirm CSIacirr Irkrhl) flow* Ilk* a vatt •hn:.:i^< river Brv-ond m tbr dimmr Tonnw IT£69-foot Maunl SpufT-
At 1st •**>'. but uid*k')> U hue ->t i he fell, fe Mtt-fcwl Ancbanwr. Abilu's Liriem diy <|wpuiitunD
-
1-1
: 1
S: e
si<
E
4
*
B
-1
111"
i ilia;1
ilt»13f*I
«- C
I ' iicJv S« in' * K<hi f ! 'ip Lies I .tide r
u Viiir-riiiinil lllnukcl nl Snow
lo "lotccruunrt" u( ihK ptiuio-
<l.irk bam) rirnr tofit . Arrow tnark^
>lVJtK IVjk 4)! Moutil MiKiftlr*.
2*Td Weary Climbers This Slope \A u "Slippery tm Groused (ilaW
Ain-fciin In-lljiv. |u»>w Mount McKxnlcv as l>rnafi—ih« Crcnt Oar. ftrhind Hmkru • < and Gale, inching upIhe Icy Wpu BuUrrw Jrwmi K.WJ-lool Mourn Forxkcc—"bcnnli') tt tic"—"JJ milft awuy.
Mount MtKinlty Curupjcnrcl by a New Route
font shelf at 2:45 p.m,futterly exhausted anrl
dripping with inspiration.\'p there, three miles above the sea, wc
began to feel Che in sit]ion 4 effects of anoxic,
or deficiency of oxygen. Anosiu increasingly
impair- .1 L'liniber'e judgnKIlt, alertnrsA, and
will power the higher he gels. He become?
apathetic, careless, and tends lo put off doing
ihi|Hiriam tasks, ur doe* Utein sloppOy. Worstof all, though In* realizes hi* companions ore
affected by it. he is convinced chat he himself
is perfectly normal.
Ox'yjfcn Lack Causes Errors
Once En I047rwhen an Air Force plane
dropped a load of supplies to w>. 1 told themhy radio that everything had landed ill riifhl.
V tunlly one imixirtant Iwx had Munched
anoxia hsil made mc tab careless to Huearound and check everything.
£Sur writing became lew lee tide, and webegan m make elementary errors in arithmetic.
Fnr I his reason we carefully doiilde-checked
our surveying figures. Once, because, of
unoxin, we fter up the theodolite tripod so
)ii#h I had lo ^UiuE on tiptoe to ser Through
it And anoxia made rtw so apathetic that I
used il in that awkward |>osJtion and madeseveral .-illy error*, which fortunately werecorrected litter.
Anoxias ill effects can be reduced if aclimber works slowly and rhythmically, with-
out wasting energy. If. carrying a heavypack, he chance* to stumble, it U often better
for him to go ahead and fall than to expend
strength in u stubborn effort to retain bis foot-
ing. There h no known cure (or anovia encept
tattled oxygen, which fat too heavy suid
rlumsy to use on McKinleyS»? perfect was the weather that after a good
lunch we goaded uurseh'cs into action andtackled one nf the real enigmas of McKinley s
wp$t face the lust steep slope leading lo the
crest of the West Ihitrress It rose directly
(jOQ feet above our shelf ai ail average an«Ieof more than &0" (measured by clinometer).
The final obstacle, now also clearly in sight,
was the lauken. rocky crret of the ridge lend-
ing from the top of the InDOO-foot shoulder
to n hrrutd snow plateau at 17.Z00 feet. From(lure to the summit aerial photograph? dearly
showed no unusual difficulties; simply J.JOQ
fc*t of sleep, wind-iKtrked <now <l«|ie&,
The mountain face above our "Crow *s Nest"
camp at 15,400 feet was in just as evil shape
as ihe hill ttp had foueht all mominj: B ftr*
litunired feet below. From -t o'clock till 7
Jim and I took turns choppinc steps an the
most wreiched snow imaginable.
On the .surface there was a thin, breakable
crust: tinder tt a layer of graimlaT snow -h 1 1
1
lake buckshot; then another thin crusE. then a
lew inches of powdery snow, and finally asolid mass of hard blue ice. all sloping muchmure th.in the avrrape roof-
We wow crampons and were tied to oppo-
site ends of a 120-foot nylon rope. Theman who was not chopping steps constantly
watched the rope in case of a slip. Neither ot
us spoke. We Just chopped and chopped.
iVctow tin* top of the shoulder the going
became 50 strep, and sandwiched layer* of
fluffy smm and thin ice so UrHilwrnus, that
w*e cor i iff to the riant and vainly u'kh! tn find
better aoing in steep rock ledges.
The wind was rising aeain, and, despite the
fact that the ridge was now only a stone"?
throw ahead, we decided lo ictreat lo campand rnurn to our msk !n ihe morning. It is
not wiw to climb on so >ircp n pitch whenone is cold, exhausted, and hungry.
As we descended, we drove three 5- foot
oak pegs into the snow and straw; a lenttih
of sturdy hand line all the way down to camp.It was late rlwl luglil Ivefure Jim, Bill, and
I finished building an tglon beneath an over-
burmiou ice cliff at the (row's Nest, Henryand John, aflet hrlpiinr, carry up sup]dies.
hud returned to the Windy Corner camp,knowtow our lime was limited, they generously
agreed lo Irt us go up first. They would follow
us to the sum nail later,.
A furious westerly gale roitred over rampall ni«ht, Wlien we awoke, the sian was hUhand the wind had diefl tn a breeze. Itenutiiul
cirrus clouds topped the sttrrrnTiLH of McKinley,Fornker. and Hunter Ipiii^e 240).We breakfasted and rested until noon, then
tackled the big slope wilh 40-pound loads*.
What a cnolrast lo out first trip! Fresh
driftedW DOW filled our steps, but this waseasy to bruxh away We climbed upwardslowly but steadily, puilioii on the hand line
each step.
Looking KIN 10 Fecr Dtm'n
In a scant hour we reached the top nf thefixed rojie. This I Imp we were fresh andrested. Another hour of chopping broughtus to firm rock, up which we ^rambled e^sihto the very cfest of the great Wi'st Buttress.Peering over its other side, we looked almoststraight down a.000 feet tu the U(jrwr basinof Peters G lacier.
The ridge ahead was a granite knife eriBe,studilrd with angular boulders, we neareil
17,000 f(*etTthe ^mde lessened and the rock
i hanged abruptly from granite to slate at thegeologic contact iielween the peak's gratnite
tx>rr and the inky-black cup rock.
The wind blew on our hacks in gust.*
of 30 to AO miles ;ui hour. In the lulls wecould hear ihe ^ale roarinc thTOi^h the jaggedledges of the Nurth Peak, half a mile awar
{
240
Tail 20.IMHI Ftci and SliJI Coin* Lp: Climber* Wend South Peak'* Grtttf
Tb*" irl'riil vi 111mil n| Nurth A rnvriutft hletirAl futalv k ftlroul Hi In W) |ri*i ol J*aiiI-|ijii )>vil .'.now HrjrIUIL FWk*U (ahead) and Jim Galv-t *>i uV I'fcftwUfJobi toil ui> thr final »ln(n\ roni|wdrnE ll»r fir»t awnffr«iu the wrst An 5-finu ImruImu pule <uppri rischli. pUccil l/y th* author jwiu. main- ilu'ir
ftiin to see familiarledges, and a shapdes?bundle appeared ahead,
f #ave a shout of Joy.
This was I he cache oj
cosmic ray appaintu*
rlmi wii.t left there byour I <M* «-x i I ion,
which hut climbed the
other side nf Mount Mc-kinley. 1 1 wa$ still
neatly covered with U»c
yellow rayon cargo para-
chutes wlili ivliieli it hadbeen dropped in i|5 bv
the JOlh Revue Sqtrad-
mn four years before
Wfi rnn toward the cache but, pamiii£ nnt\
pttflfritg, bad to stow oar paceai once. Fittsdly
we u\ieh«! it, mil of breath and sprech-
Icss We shook hands heartily. Ai long kuuMcKinlrv'r western fare had liren climbed!
We noticed a shovel lying in the snow a
hundred yards east of the pass As Jim walkedover to it. Bill ami I mm !•> it near-by *f>nt
where we had left ji lnr«e niche of food fuel,
and equipment ur ihe*li**i*f the IW7 espedi-
t ioti-
RecnrdiiiR ThcmnmitfCer Sbmv* —
A shocking scene of confusion met our evrs,
'IV party which Hnd climbed McKimVy in
1948. pmhahly iri dt'^prrale nml of .supplier,
hnd rip|»ii off the tent* ami parmlmio withwhich we had covered the cache, and left it
unprotected Snow and ice, driven by scream*
247
Old Glory Signals the Victory over McKinley'* Western Slope*
ll;icLctl itrtn uhI G*Je mi« ihc Star* m>i1 $u\{*n no llir wimi wliippnliiijiittiii of South Peak. TV lUtr: July 10, 1051. The flujrpiili' b I lie «nu- on*hifCly Yteihlc in llir t^>utnnraph nn tJie ojif^isj!) ivi^v- lit xnli* tiulhiiu! v,'iL&
ini? paJes, had pcnetratril every crovk andcranny Tlir who|r hc*«f» wn^ fnwn into .i
solid, ri^id ma>^ Only a)»out a third of theFUpplios remained.
la a neai-by |iilr of VKks we found TheAmerican Alpine '-'lob's mininium-recordinKThetrnnnie Irr. ;dso left there in 104? It re#fc*
lerrtl l«*|uw zero, tlu- euldeM iKnip^-uiiTi
?dnce it was last adlusJinl, proiimablv in
194S. Actually this wa* a ^urpri?inply warmrecord for that JitliiunV. feel.
Suddenly Jim leaned qrtf with an e-xclania-
thm ajwl pi«Ltn| u;i n rim bird, u lilllr red-
poll, which lay froxra dead in a crnctk Iwi^tcdthe rocks.
fn l°-t7 we h:«f fonnd am it her rrdpoll ..unl
a Laplanrl hmgvpur near the pais in Ihr samecondition. Kvery y&tr thoiiuods of tiir^e
migrjitirtg birds must be swept to their deaths
248 The National Geographic Magazine
far up on McKinlcy by warm spring gales.
Thuusii our main objective had l»een at-
tained, one goal still beckoned. AH three of
us had stood on the summit of MrKinley Itc-
fore; yet wr now had a compelling desire lo
climb to thai snowy cresl just once more.
To rhc Tiptop of n Continent
A pluniehlte cloud coursed over the ifp of
the peak, but we knew it would vankh in the
rhill of late afternoon. As we cfimhed, the
cloud dropped lower, and at 1°,000 feet wewere inchinp forward through dense fop. But
now thai we knew the way. every undulation
of the etjdw was like a familiar tree or sign-
post, for MtKinleys tTpprtr dome changes
scarcely at all from year to year.
At 5 p, m, the clouds melted away, unci the
summit rjf McKinley rose directly ahead, mag-
nificent in a fresh coal of silver frotfL Weworked upward iiwr the corniced drifts- fin-
gers numb frum taking picture&. Forty-five
minutes later we topped t h rr final drift of Mc-Kinlcy's South Peak and llu? whole amazingpanorama to the east burst upon u*,
1 1 was almost cloudless fn every direction.
Mount Hayes, sharp and clew, cut the horizon
140 mile- to the east To the snuthffittl lay
the Oiugorh Mountains and the misty gray
haw which we koew must hide f'ook Inlet
and Anchorage, The hu$e while masse* of
the Rahiltno and Muldrow Glaciers wmrndtoward the lowland.-* through a staageririg sea
of jagged peak"*
Most irnpressh'e of all was the deep emerald
green of Ihe lowlands to south and west.
River after river sparkled in Ihe afternoon *un.
twisting off into the distance. As Archih-.o on
Hudson Stuck *aid after hi* firsl ascent of
McKmley >ft year* before, it was like looking
out the very windows of heaven.
A* it grew later. Ihe temperature dropped
rapidly below zero, and Ihegunty wind cut our
faces like a knife. Despite heavy clothing
we began to feci the inlenw burning fold of
yreal altitude.
Panorama of LOOjtMK) Square Mile*
Vet we hated to leave. Each of us knew he
mipht never see ibis niarvelnu* *?cht again, a
cloudless panorama stMtdung nearly -*00
milt's from horixtw to horizon, 1 00,000 square
miles of Alaska visible In a »iug1e sweeping
trlance
!
At f>:SS wr tint a hit of orange Imntinj! in
the tip of the 8-foot bambto survey marker
that still remained on Ihr isumruit 'from our
fU7 trip (page* 2-*r. and :47). Then wehe.idrd downward to our last egloo, *hEveriitjc
uncontrollably from the bitter cold.
|>e?ceiiding next day, even wilh heavy
park*, wa* almost pathetically easy compared
with the rigors of the long and grueling ascent
On the trail we passed the other mem tiers
uf our party in two group*, upward boundIn high spirits. On July 13 and 14 they tint
reached the summit, We went to bed at mid-night In Kahillna Pass, making the entire re-
treat from our hiidlest camp in a sinele day.
Rut our thrills were not quite .ill behind
us. We radioed to Terry Moore that the
vanguard of the party was ready to be flown
out, and lie replied, Will come this evening.
The sun had diop|«xl behind Kahilttsa Pass
when we heard a faint hum It grew louder,
echoing from the riifiV Two minutes later.
Terry wj> taxiing safely toward Ihe tents.
"Gee, that was a tough one' No morelandings tonight!" were his first words as he
ci lordted out. " The camp looked as if It wererhwifng in a bottomless* se-i of ^ray milk. HIt.ikr nnly one man out tonight."
Tt was agreed that f would go on the first
trip. It was a thrilling take off. High cloud*
aflame with sunset covered the siy. Everypeak about us was pink with alpine glow.
Back to the Soft. Fresh Lowland*
T 'CQnghr a final glimj>se of Jims and BilPs
worried (area as we started moving. Wepassed the end of the runway and headeddown Ihe steep, smooth snow ?lope of thr
glacier. Suddenly 1 realize*! we were in the
air. Terry's eve? twinkled iriumphantly. "Wemade it. par«1!" he touted.The mn was slipping In-hind ihr vast
Yukon lowland* to the northwcm a* we B^HDV0C Wonder Like and glided into the IrUle
Kantwhna ulrnidd. never forget the lush
green of that valley, the beauty of the 5-pruces,
and the *mrfl of Rrass and flowers that camein the plane windim* even before we touched
the ground. The whole world down ihere
seemed soft, fresh, and delicious after the
cold, icy desolation of Ihe heights
At daybreak on July t.> Kill and Jim wereflown WueJjf out, and 10 ila>-s later the others
lislkiwed.
McKiuley had been rtimhed from the west,
safely jumI .speedily, in only seven days from
Knhihnn Pass. We had proved that airplanes,
handed or unloaded mold laud and take off
halfway up Ibat side of Ihe peak. >lel
Griffiths had completed hi*, geologic work. Mysurvey was done and checfceil. Not even aminor accident had iKCtirrecl.
Out new route up McKinley's "imprea-nable" western face had turned out In be
even shorter than I liad bope-l it miaht \x:
when 1 harl first *een it on our N'^ttonalGKOGAAPinr photographic flightf IS year* be-
fore- It was proved to be an ideal avenueof approach for future scientific wi>rk slop the
run! K>i North America.
Wildlife of Mount Mckinley Narional Park 2*9
Predators ami Their Vrcy Live Unmolested by Man in Alaska's Arctic Rviugc,
3,U0O Square Miles of Spectacular Wilderness
Jtv AnouMi Ml rie
Bfotogist, NqUbmsJ Park Service
tilth PaUttfags by If'alrrr A. IVvhvr< Nuihmal Gent/raphir hf*iff^ne Staff Jriisl
TX thr creek ahuad wc saw a dark object
I rliiii reached alma-it from shore to short*
JL \\v M"'[rpril l'if .1 1-er.Of look. A grizzly
l>cnr lying h) Btt creek was tbjoyJntf the cl«»|
play of fhr 4ii rrmi on h> skin. A iuti frolicked
ai tht big animal's .side.
' li s probably Nokomis," I siur] a* wescrambled from the rattletrap truck. "She's
thr only gruxly in the arc* will* one cub/'
Walter A. Wither, Nation as. {irocRAiMnr
naturalist and artist, had come to Mount Mc-Kinlcy National Park In paint and study
Alaskan wildlife Imap. paire 222). He espe-
cially wanted tn see grizxlies, Here, on our
second day In the- field, we: had fotmrf one,
und under unusual circu4rutance>. Hears
la thr <|tdte often. Inn men rarely see thetti
doing »• We *et up our camera* lo record
the scene.
Suddenly ihr old Icar, 80 yards away,stood up and eyed u?. 1 thouicht site was
standing up to stretch.
Our cooJidenee vanished when the Eflwly
nervously ''chomped" her jaw* together sev-
eral limes We could see her yellowed teeth.
1'mhnhtv hhr wa> trying tn «ceni us.
A bedlam nf squalls and bark*, erupted he-
hind US. Another grfc*ly c'llb was paring hark
and forth on the hilbtde directly above us.
Unnoticed, it bad been play in c there when wearrived.
Iluiwccn ti (jroccly nnJ llcr (*uh<
My mistake wjia evident. ThL* was mil
Xoknmi* til nil. Our hn thln^c Iwar mu>t lie
Old Knsv. nvulier of two inbs. Now wefound otirerlur* between an Iriur grixxly andher frightened cub—a classic, example of I hewrone place To be.
"I don't like the looks of tha," Walter said,
as the bear dropped onto four feet,
0Tc gndtrbed mir cameras- run! sprinted downthe rood. H ranches snap) «^l and trarklerl I*-
hind iMa* t)M \ii}<\ plowed throueb the brush
Inward her second cub. We jumped into the
t rin k and drove away.Seconds Inter I he gruudy hrnke not own rhf*
higlnriiy. She gait us a sidelong glance andcontinued uphill. traHerl by rub number one.
Stopping at a *ufe rli«liinc(% we watched The
tittle family * reunion.
Wall it later watched Old Rosy through hi-
nm uhir-. find made the sketches lie irinttd.
I hi- painting (pane Zbi i shows her in a li ?>
belligerent mood as she <hepherd* her twocubs across a sweeping plateau.
Color Films Supplement Sketches
To ensure accuracy, artis5-nntura|i-*t Webersupplement* hi* own memory and notes withsketches ;uid motion pkurres he makes on the
spot. Later, at The -Soriwy's headquarters in
Washington, It. <".. |ir project* ih'' color film*
above his easel. Mopping ihrir motion with apush-button arrangement to study a creature
in characlcristir pose (page 270).
Kodnchromc slides of typical p;irk plants
and landscape:* airl him in painting hark-
Kn-M.rnd?. Specimens from hb own collection
or from inu^nv*« rixmd out his oritrinal
source material
.
Walter Wcbcr and 1 arc old friends, and it
Wits my pkM^on rluty to act as guide durirtR
his -u> in Mount NfcKinky N,itvvi:al I 'ark
For a month wt rr.i,mied an unspoiled wilder-
nops, enjoying the same majestic scenery andfar-north environment 1 rial irai]-bla/inK
Charles Sheldon, the hunter-naturalist, ex-
nl' red in :nul at-ain in 3'J07-^«.S It waslar^ly J«t iii^e oi ^lu-hlon 5 obser^itions andafaiuui? ihxit part of the Alaska Range wasset aside in 1917 as a national park.
Today the park covers 3,000 square miles
and is the Nation's second largest national
park . 120 species tS birds and 36 species of
mammals have been identified within it?
boundaries.
CrowniiiK gfekv i* lofty Mount McKinlry.highest fieak In Slortli America. The erioirn-ij
nv>n;och reaches1 in altitude of more than 20,-
000 feet hImiy* >cn le%*el. It alone Mirpav*ev
the park's wildlife as an ttttmctioii for the
^Rwing influx of v^itord.
An excellent Jiij-hway ruii-H thrtHiRb Ihr ref-
ape, providing rculy.aMta t«i wildlife areas.
Hie lariff animals, siich a? sbeep and caribou,
often can be «ren ffom the road.
Altt'r a frw ciavs in the ea^cern section wednive Sft miles westward lo Woiuler Lalo-
near the base of Mount McKinley, and s»-t
up headquarters an a lonely 5-room bungalow.The UttJe frame dweUing had an unhappy
Far tyrmn Civtliz-aiiim'* Thrctin, VImini
Mckinley Nmiainul Pnrk Prvwiuim * 1 u cJi tr Museum
J>a\\ s\ur\> Irifcht) b while IhhlcuX Oil
vmd) Imiwn Ilk* ts* hv.mii, il>. H..,h Mnmuainbighorn ; nt-M) il * h«jnv* arc mure ilendu .mil w (<ir.
^prcmlmg. In the jurk vfUlor* can aoiTKUrorij|i(iruni)i i|ui(r Huftc In lnr»c n ' UJHOJEi <!lt*|t
iv>rtimlaTl> Irrqurni thp nrrrlli *Ulr nt trir
Alaska Rnnct whmru ««w ii imhU r anil iccdinegii«mij> jrr s*i'pt tm/r by tJbc winter wind* ThU• le.;niiir«| rim jwrchr. -ahlv <m 4 rr«o* near Sable
"The willow ptarmigan fU'tV an ji-ctfcc crocue
f'Hind in willnw ihlrkrlfr. tKttat mat* nirtowiTihiui any otlirt lurrl in lh< park Tim n\.\\t tti.ii-
fiiAin&niiU* bJtiwft *tu) while Cw the bxociltrtc
Nmwn, bin rtitiln i>liiirMtir i* «b)tr. If aburoH.ho rackIn loudly Mite an alarm rfiwli running
Muunl MrKmlcy'" bcuven Lbruit butt rorii of*iT*fi aim.4 into the wiuH *m f«n«| wh.s rhafttifc
fi'itsr. Thb 'pi'vimvn #mW* a meal nl uprn hurt
reputation. Btifll [or park personnel, it hadrecently liern .subjected to u series of hume-wrevkisiE: raid* by a hunyry grizzly.
Repairs him<l been made, but hu$c |>aw
marks printed in mushed th-jcolntc. still
formed patterm* on the flour, anil perfect noye>
print* fnowod un window ^Lt55.
Fortunately, ihe be;ir left us undisturbed
during uur stay in the cottage.
Caribou. Nomad* of die Arctic
Early the next momirur wr wt out afoot to
stalk those handsome relatives of Lhc tkmwsti-mli vl reindeer, the cariboo.
I at i (win nre restless, migrator)* animal*The pattern of their wandering ia umcrtMin.
It may Ik the same for a period of ycaxs, then
It may change drastically.
Alaska has several caribou herds. Oneherd .^scmls part of each yrat in the park.
In spring tie animals enter from the west Andnorthwest, usually In relatively Vila II hand? of
100 to 200. After traveling across highglaciers Ui the south side of lhc Alaska Uange.they KOttfS in late July, when they gatherand vl iram westward .m;titi
I have ciiuntrd as many as 4,5(K) in a single
band, a Inrm? part uf the entire park herd.
We found many small, scattered groups i>f
caribou Once we stalked two fine bulls withsweeping angular unllrrn. Both wire adults,
but only one had attained the glutening white
neck, low 'hanging white mane, and the white-
ness spreading u\*er ihr ffcnulders and along
the Oaaks that are characierbtk of the fully
developed fall coaL
The National Geographic M.i^i/inc
Circling downwind, wc uppro.u hevt Ihr *uii-
rnals ii5 thoy gra^d among scattered spruce
Irees, Slowly we set up otsr cameras. Thecaribou's eyesight i* unythins; but keen: onlyaurhlen movement would betray us.
The hulls looked our way a tew times aa
if Misim iou-. Afn-r ;i white they lay downi ontrnlrdly Thrn, Inr ma apparrnt icvtHM.
both jumped to their feet and daahed off.
Fly Tormentor* Sp#itJ a Picture
Our comments were sulphurous. Probably
the animals had been set upon hy nose botflies
fir Warble flies "I hr Latter deposit eggs an the
legs and flanks of Ihr Cftrihou. After hatching.
I he larvae pcm'trait: the and by the follow-
ing spring have burrowed thmuah to the back,
where they emcrpe as fnt imib? The frnibs
drop tn the ground, where they chanae Into
tormenting flies.
It was now late August. Hfll and tundra
blazed with brilliant shades of rrimscin, yel-
low, and gold, Against Ihi* vivid bnxkgrutrnrj
the lirrrllv male caribou seemed the epitome
<if wilderness, splendor.
Some sparred with their unllrrs, tuning upfor serious fights biter in :iutiimn when Often
adult male would attempt to round up and de-
fend against all rivals n doxen or more cows.
Caribou are The chief .source of food for the
hi* tmilntr wolf * ITnfnrUinuirly, we failed
lo s^rht one of these powerful predators, but
I did point out tr river-bluff burrow where I
had observed wolves often. Lounging by the
den, | told Walter the siury of its tenants.
1 had discovered the wr>lve&r hideaway one
May morning whEle following telltale padmarks in light snow, Two adults ran fromdie entrance when I approached. Crawling
inside, f found six dumpy, blunt-nosed pup-pies, their eye* .still closed. I wrupiwd oneof them in my p.irka and carried ic home.The little captive, a female, grew rapidly
on canned milk. She became a friendly pel,
beloved by my wife and 5-year -old daughterGnil, Because of the wolfs eoorf-naiured
lafl waving, Gall named her Wags.
Waive* Call on die Family Per
Wags was kept on a chain outside our cabin,where she received visits day and night fromneighborhood wolves. Their boldness made us
tearful for Gail's .safety, but despite misgiv-
ing* we kept our pet (or a year, Finally westave her to the mniter* at park headquarters.
From a near-by rideetop T watched the wolffamily from which I had abducted Wagts andmade daily notes on their habits*
FaiiicrV Return from lb* Hunt Brings Mnthcr Fox nnd Hungry Pups trum Their I>cn
Fii«h fwcomr fairly tam# id ihr park *nnarar, Sorot will MM lake Jwd trum vbJti>rV hand*. The male. csrryine,i l.rou q. I Njuirrct. U an ilnAan Hrd F**t like hU t»Mc. lib Wade aut J* a color pbaw.
Racing fur Safi-i>, ,5 T»Uii Vole Etudes It* Arch Roomy, ihc I limit (Iwl, by Irahcv
McKinlcy pjrk area by Ge^rce, .A I. Wright,lie and Joseph S r Dixon were walking across
a rocky ridj»e when a nesting surfliird explodedInto the air from henealh \V right's feet.
This sudden hursttng^nlo-rtighi serves to
startle mountain sheep and thus keep* the
nests from ln-inn trampled.
\V<- luiiiiv now that The surfbird raises its
E.ijnil v ;n the high country atwive lliuberlinr
in Alaska's interior. Tt winters along rocky
Pacific coast beaches as far south as Chile.
Pir« Wnndcrinrt Tattler Xe*ls
On July I, 1923, my brother Glaus and T
werr driving n testn of hemes on a gravel barof Alaska's Savage River- Suddenly a wan-drnnK tattler burst into the air just aheadof U5, Near a wheel rut we found it* tie*!.
In IW I discovered a second nesl. Thryare still the only one* recorded, allhouuh the
bird itself is common enough in the Alaska
Ron^e. Il winters along the T'acsffc mast of
the United States, in the Hawaiian Minds,and in faraway Xew Zealand,
In nit* llw powerful golden eagle, with iis
wing.-pread of more than seven feet. Ss one01 Nature's most splendid creations
( page254). Some years ago the p*rk ea«le5 weresuspected of preriau widely upon ibe lamitt
of mountain sheep. s*i I l ironed detective.
Visiting many ch'fiside nests. I eathered pel-
let* of undigested bones, feathers, and fur.
which the eauJr regurgitates after a meal.Kx^ininatinn of the pellets revealed that morethan 90 percent of the bird's diet consists ofground squirrels and hoary marmots. A fewkimta are undoubtedly l.tkm but the effeit
on the sheep population is insignificant, I washappy to report.
The bird thai perhaps best typifies theNorth b the wllow ptarmigan, an arctic rep-resentative of the grouse family (pases 250.
We met many of these bints prospectingfor gravel alnnjj the rourl. Tim' provedtame and confiding, clucking softly cryingcomf-rrt, crWHrr, that' frequently
wewem able t0 herd them toward our cameras*
Pcanoi^ini iJruw tor rtic Senwn
Also present in the park are two other ptar-
migan swefes, the rock (pace 2cil) and thewhite-tailed. Tlie rock nriirrrdgarfs call is kmand guttural, somewhat like the croak of nbullfrog. The whiter.ailed, tamest of ihethree, utters a high-pitched scream, not atall in keeping with H? personalty.
All three species change dress with the sea-sons, matching winter * snow with white out-
fit*, dojininu hroivn-iind-gray plumage in
spring; whep the snow melts. In hue summera-nri fall they display snowy urwlrTparls amibrownish feathering, above, as in the color
plate cm page 256.
While camping in a spruce woods we ttudtied the activities of a whisome little field
mouse, the Toklut vole, named for Alaska'sToklaE River.
Like the squirrel, which stores nuts for the
future, the Toklwt vole is a provident crea-
ture. Each summer it harvest* haj to lent
upon during winter. Great care h taken lo
keep the hay dry.
Near our cabin we found many miniature
haystacks, usually piled rieiween the baaa!
branches erf dwarf rrees or bushr* md on ex-
posed rout-, of spruce*.
Some of the vole 4 hurrous haw an injaen-
Hiii* construction, a series of small chamber?connected by narrow passages. *» that a bur-
row resembles a pearl necklace. Connectingpassages ate so narrow that the vole can just
?que«r through. A pursuing enemy, such as
tbo weasel would have 1*i stop ami enlarge
each poAsase.
Scanning the spruce t"t»*. we distuvered
several luiwk owls, heaurfful northern birds
tJut do much bunting in dayliKhL The paint-
ing of lite owl *woopmft on the Tokiut vole
reproducer -i seme 1 witnessed (page 2o01.From a hUlCop we saw alni « piKeon hawk
break up an aerial dogfight between a goshawkand Ekwne ravens (page 266). The srrappvlittle pigeon hawk, highly hianeuvwoJLrie.
chascil has laruer cipponenl all over the skyand finally drove hirn from the anra.
We Stalk u Herd ol Hum*
Soon mii|-S*?pieri»ber was ujmn us. and there
was time for «nly one more camera hunt. Wewt out for the hfcdi, I'taggy rida« in >ear< h
of l>all shiTp (opposite and pa^e 2S0).TlurSe mountain shcrp ure anion^ the lunii-
rH.irnf.sl animnlf of the Mount McKudey re-
gion. In summer they apjiear lo be purewhite. Against the snow a slight yellirwish
llnpe is apparent. The rams have graceful,
ntrvtns horns, deenrativrty wrinkled A *ooii-
^ii^vl male will stand about 39 inches at thr
Anildeffl &cd wriKh npfiroximately 200pound!*-
l-'or UO miles the park highway pas«wIhrouifh sheep rawre. In ^ptirE. Iambs maybe SOfcuj frlskms; thr cliff- and Jnl«»-v
deveiopinc their less, already stmne u Hay ortwo after Ijirlh.
Rattling ahum the highway in our truck, v,c
sighted 20 ram? in the cliffs high above us.
A dry river lied promised an appm;u:h. Afootwe heean a slow. laborLOU5 climb.
The park sheep, though they possess excep-
270 TttC National Geographic Ma^a/inc
1 1 itilr .til.till ll.lr. UIIImIabI.
Ai'ir»r Wchcr faW'k* Printer'* Proof* of I In Paintings lor Colur Accuracy
Th* National Li*«>trnMihic ilttbl-hiMuoilist Fwks diwn u tunucliilu' motion picture ptojct'tur nhovr his
iirovirw Uoiol A fuck ul the 3*itdi tlelO *top» the pkttlt* an »nv frame hr want* ta study. Hen1ht- rvvirw*
llJjirtP o| the iroTiim <tijcle iufiI far Hi^ltkc rtfetovee whtlu painuii? ihf porttnit More him* At ii^iit Wcbcrl*nl*ln i |nhi!i'r% miFiij |mihj1 ai Uie picture aiipcolnv on |in*r 254 ol UU> k^ur,
timvdfy Ice-en eyesight, can often he stalked in
I to? Open. They seem to feel al ri* >o loni!
n5 they k*cp you in view. Disappear for a
momrrnl and Hie animals .ire likely In bolt.
Climbing slowly, wc carefully remained ill
sight of tlit? rants ul all times.
As we nvaretl our ri&MOp «oal, ihe sun-
light, which bail been brillUnt. bqum to growdun. Soon the cnlire rid^r was bathed in a
curious, wan half-jjUiw.
Tu add to Our woes, a siray ram jumper!
fnwn behind it rock and 5 rit mingled the herd.
The animal* vanished over a rise to reappear
on a diatom crag.
"Wlwr tlafHwneJ |i» the Mfht?"
"We spend lour Injurs reacbirn: these sheep."
AY idler grumhlnl. "We finally tfri here.
Thru no luck and DO linht. I never saw such
u queer (by. The sun ts nut. but what hap-
pened 10 the light?"
Returning disconsolately tn camp, we soonlearned the answer. Fur our sheep hnnr wchad picked, of all days, the tvne on wlifYh anS-Z-fH'recm ecSEpsc of iJ>tf mio occurred.
But luck, anil lite sun, favored us a fewdays later. We maneuvered To within -10
yards of another bund of rams and spent sev-
eral hour* photographing 1 hem.It was Walter's last dity in the park. As
ut clambered down the muontuin&i !•I no-
ticed Now his gew lingered on ihe ma^nifirrni
sweep nf liorixon, thr dark, tumbled ridj^?. tUr
Jagged crags, and the aloof, snowy Jioud of
riiMatti Mount McRinley..He seemed to be etching llie .«crnr in his
nirinnry. I knew what he wa^ thinking.
Here, thanks to man 5 foresight, fa a truewHrirrnir&, x splendid refuge wJurv: Cod'ilesser creatures can follow Ihclr natural des-
tinies in a special area of human good will.
May it never change.
Hunting Prehistory in Panama Jungles 2:1
Tracing Lost [nrliun Civilizations, an Archculogist nnd His Wife
Narrowly Ksi.ipc Disaster on the Jslhinu*' Wild North Coast
By Matiuew W. Stxri,(NO
With HJustralians by Natiotui GtQJjr&fkk Pluitatfrttphtrr RuharJ ff. Situ-art
T "TT TESTWYRr* fui IJO mites from the
\/\/ U'isy wnrEd crossroads of the Panamaf V ( in 1J ' Stfiicls one of the IIWHl Iso-
lated ami inaccessible coastal stretches of the
Western Hemisphere.This aliTKwI-foritultrii ri-uioii, where primi-
tive way.? of life still survive, is fhc jungle-
rruittrd north shine uf Panama which lairs
the Caribbean Sea between the Canal Zone
and the Lagurui tie (hiriqui (map, patfe 275).
\ll U'iu rtiiiiU sweep the coast, ridging the
-t ;i with hu«r rullrrs lh.it hen! againM the
shore in a booming surf . There are no harbors
and few anchorage*, even for small irrafi. Thi-
rough mountains of the isthmus, clocked with
tropical forest and drenched by waking: rate
man of the year, cat{end denm to the wjuTim wild hind Is sparsely peopled m the
Interior by Indian* in direct bloodline from
the iiburiuitic* at pre-Columbian times, and
alone the sencoast mostly by Negroes, manyof whose ancestor* probably weir r* api-d
•laves. These inhabitant* MM virtually tin
contact with the outside world
A few mtuJI launches period [rally visit the
const 1n pkk uji carries of bananas': mil -
marked and difficult jungle truJI> iwbt acm&the mountains.
Yet it was m this area I hat (*olomhu&, on
his fourth voyage to Che N'cw World m 1502-
03 first femnd in any flptauiity ihr gold he
nought. Here he established the rim Sfianish
colony on America"? mainland, at the monthof the Rio Belrn. Along ihts coast., too, lie
encountered the greatest rltHVuhio with storm
and surl of entire career.
In the Footsteps of Columbus
On a gray January dawn my wife Marinafind I arrived uhT this Lnhnspibihlr shore at
the mouth of the km Code del Norte on oneof the semimoutJih banana hoapi.
We had come, under the joint uuspk-rg of
the National Geojcraphic Society and the
Smithsonian Institution, not to seek gold but
to hunt for putt cry, arrowheads, stone axes,
inH.u'Ht crave-*, and other remain* of the
Indians who lived here during ami before c Jir
lime of Columbus. We hoped to team froma study of such relics a tatter understanding
of the rise of prehistoric Indian civilization*
in the Sew World.
All utulu long on the Voyage from Colon,in the Canal Zone, our Hule craft hail pitchedand loftfed in heavy swells, fully living up to
her name, Tumtwiia. the Little Tosser. Aswr ro-r ^tifify from fitful deep on the harddeck, we could net while hrruken; underliningthe base of lonely urren-cbd mountains.
l'!\pb«ii!r% HiiiL' Shunned rhe Area
Ever bhirv the time of Columbus explorershave stunned thi* forbidding Und. For ten-turies it has defeated ihsi^ who 50ii*bl the
H"ld reported in Columbus's accounts,We wrrc to fate far greater difficulties ami
danger* here than on any of cur previousexpeditions to study the nrcheiihn-y and pre-
history of AIM lie Amrricn,*
TO* fltst vMt to the CocM del Norte wasa MtitttirtR trip for EutiT r\-pforntS«ut, for webad been unnblr etsewbrre to find reliable In*
formation abmil the interior. Almost nothinghas been published abour this area since theaccounts of Colunil>U5
T
s voyage 450 years agu,
A* the wind whipped the *rjves andTumftaUu lalftored in the heavy sea a mileoffshore, we were remindwl a( a passage writ-
teti by the preai e^'jlorer pt this very coast:
, .The iUftttk reionimrnced, and wearieduk' to such a decree that T abwlLitely knewip-T ivhat t.i do . , . never was the sea m hljch,
so tcrrifir., and «m k owed with foam: not unlydid the wind oppose our pBOCeediFip onward,but if als»» rendered it highly danfferous to
run in for any headland, and kept me In thatseq which seemed to me as a sea of blood,seething like a cauldron on a mighty fire...All lhi* linwt the waters front he*vrn neverceased descendiiiK, not to say that it rained,tor it like a repetition 6f the delMRr. . ."fThough we did not reahlze it tJuu, riie-e
word- were strangely prophetic of what wasto happen |o uf.
Accounts iif Columbus's! voyage tell thatthe Spaniards found the Indians wrarinu \fok\ornaments In the shape of disks, frogA, ami
• Tor tiifiy uf prc\dcnn anirli^ »t\ rruanhrs lhPanaEku antt Mmk« by [>r SUrliuu, who N t>irocr«ri i thi- IVjrcjii ivf ArnrricAn EthntVliijry, SnuthaonjanEnsomnnri, He ihr rwrv vnlyme C»Jh'tih(ivc tiulr* tothe National (jCtWRAenw Mm-kiiux.
t Proni Srblt Uttfrt vt Ckriitfypktr GmMmuahUiHH \>y K H Major. pctiH»h«l by the KjlUuvi^H ir'T. London, U47, page 179.
Solemn Brown Fucvn Rcflucr the Wonder (if Music from rhp Air
Nn*ie uf Urn > ounciIn5 had hrawJ * rw1i« ty&lfP* '"M^ h"? mrit* »W'ir-«4Utk Tbr man with the
pipe -vi-jie J the effptwUnft't tamp on the ujjfjrr Rio In<llo i« a*fc if be might bring lib femily to cafL kfmthry had i*v*r *crU people Iflcr tile StlrlJnpj, Gw%l* amt to the luncril ever juiirit! "mil* iir*uiU: «isikiic*s
nr.d hrnvy ram
t ;iu)»- Tluy pi-rsuudcd a chief to lend guides
far .1 trip tn the mines.
The wily Indian* t£tnil«Ml the whiir mmfar into Ut tnleriur to Ihe roots of hawhuge trees where they said the jinld was
found, a place actually in thr territory uf an
rtriemy of thr thief. The eager Spnninnis.
without having tu um tools, ^fathered it biml-
f til of ftuld cm:h. Our? U inclined t»» sitip&l
that the Indians had sdlril the Incalhy wilh
gold to satisfy the Spaniards.
Columbus'* settlement at Belrn was short-
lived. RcMluiyr agnin«i the white men 5 HI?
treatment, the Indians killttl many of them
and threatened to exterminate the rc>t- Short
1 if foixl and pounded to exhaustion by the
Mgty Columbus abandoned the H-lllenietit.
(iuM -till tuuiLiJ iij 5-Fiull quantities hi
this rejpori. particularly in the Concepcinn,
Belen, and (."ode dH N'nrle Kivers. NkifVMjwin for it with shallow wooden trays, a* ihc
j|»»rn«ine-s ditl A hard day's work produces
about three dn]iarV worth*
Lcrfcnd* of "*Loi,r Mines'1 PcrniM
The large quantity of ggkj tbr Spaniard*
found was the accumulation of many years
of lalnu rather than the output of rich mines
of deposits Nevertheless, legends of fabu-
lously rich lM mines" ^ruM persist.
#3Where is R-uU IJik*- HWk* iltt Kiier, Naiivcs 1 1 iul t p a Dufmil by Main Sirvngili
and exchanged. ObviouslyIhese exchange* musthave pured iJif'Ugh ihe
Isthmus of Panama; it
wa* l<ii"ical In siNirch here
for evidence* of them.Dm mil previous (Hps
we had «turjjrd (he arrhe-oh-L'y i if J'.in,imj > Pacific
coast, und now, during
this third sciiHKi in 1 951,
we hoped to explore thelii Ife-known north coast
and complete an arche-
nlngintl cross section of
ihe i-tnTnn*. As in previ-
'jus years, our old friend
Dr. Alejandro Mritatrg,
direct itt of the Piinaimi
National Museum, as-
sisted us.
tlaefc «f tioynnd
Now we were ready tocrl foiili iiii.i ihe iVI.iled
country alone ihe RioIiultn :ind ihe Itin Codedd None. No rest lire of
a marl extends westwardbeyond the RJa Salud-
We decided to tackle
the India first. Since its
mouth win only a I wobaurV walk ftl&ffg thebeach beside the vurf, weorLMnueil wlut iv e Joking-
ly called a ^surfuii'9of 18
carriers, who ttTinsporn-d
our boxes and bundles,
Dr. Shirley (ia#c, a va-
cstitnifflig wmnn phy?t*
cian from Xew YorkSlate, joined us for a trip
up the lnrfiii- She haddone several year* of
medical work En Chinaand wished to study a re-
gion which modern nserli-
NtCARACUAC.ari-hhff.a-Ti. Seu.
COSTAfen W*R|CA.
—
Pacific. Ofte.cj.Tt
M A COLOMBIA
^PwwiTSi/id deAruero
JowTonre#
Parfofre'o*
drewAifjjj ifliu^f Acre. NA*th eaopl rf$io>rr
ffay txptored ii ofir of mast holctid inWeifrrr. h'rmxphfr* SU mf/Ofrom 6ui^ strafeyic ftwffma Ca/wf,
Colo
Cristaiul
Be/en s..,r^i.»'1,1 Wr.
PJjijiijJ
Jj... , ( ltil
*i f i tfl drifts
CANAL '
, ZONE toft_ )%v»-f
i 1
"I
,1.1 L jirrr'. i.'?-=
Chamr 4
^'•Ga/afcr
U|4
u Crtiifi) drJ'txrUiL
.Ocu
ParfM
CmVre
PwnCo t^w>k
I
-Mr- Cjc/os
• fiifl r^alO <icjl/i> de- Panama
Twfay tfw Crana/ ftmnir/t t^iroujjA Uthrrwt
of Jb/Kjma tt*r OstKm-bvrfM trad* of thtwevfd A thcuutnd yrsrx ago 1h i'j narrcw
Ainrf bridge was a me/trny pot of Mrfmncu/ft,TCf from A'ortft ffrtd Sewf/i Awrrku.^rrrcursa^t <>f 'd^Ki/Di/i /ncd dfirf A J fee
JvifijdCJo/ri coatt fadiQnt 'eJ
3-atfaxt (odhcavtry Of the Pacific Ocecn
2"5 rn.vn tt TW»»a.lHB»
ScicoEiiiK Probe Panucoa TA'ilds Shunned Since ColumbusThe iDsmrair fausij uoM inUind ftom Ute Curilvrxr-n In 1505. At Ihc
mouth uf ihc Ri<j Ui-Jcn be set up ifir New WorlrJV urtt n-iiinUnd Sruinnti
colony. Up |be iwilgliliitrinp; mc-n CncIA del N'*n If. fnd-n. nnrj Kalml.
NaUuM Gwn;rn|vhk-SrimliMjjil^ii srJi»Ur» <I4H i'ewi Ulrr traced lAdcDtIndiaa cultures at modern and lonu-buncd v^ilbuc mrs_
cine had mil le.icheiJ.
Apprniichhiji llic inwn id Rio Dsfia fpapes
277, 287), wesiw lhat m'»Si of Ihe men Lhere,
all NcRnKa, were dreswl fnr a fiiwia. Thoywnre lull cunital hats decnrateil with iTuwers
and bright-cidnreil leathers. They hail iiabicd
their [aces red. while, fcrr bhii\ nnd Inlkra
backwards or in a sirnngc pf.iherfah (hut sard
the opposite of what they recant. TlTe celr-
hraticui Is known as the "Congos7' or ''Congo/*
perhaps in reference (c Uieir African ancestry.
\<i HH-ncr hm\ we arrived tiian it seemedI lib unfriendly land was taking revenge uponns f«r darhii? it» probe Ui» lim^-hidcieji MrcietjL
Tfmt lime of year, Jiinuar>' to April, was sup-
posed lo be the dry season; yel il rained mtnrrenu almost coiiftaiitly The rjiu was so
fri-fjiieni that nflim wo were not dry for two
ar three days and nifihts in a row.
We sltjieged over iniidily iraiJs and madeshort excursions by canoe to aicheological
276 The National Geographic Magazine
sitea, «[ueslie using the natives as to possible
new locations. An old man. who several years
3ga had (avail a gold frog awl a yn|d "pencil"
(probably a rod worn as jus earring 1 while
clearing his field, led us fo the place, high
on a i i ur.
Fragments of broken pottery werr strewn
about, where they Itad lain undisturbed sitite
before the days of Columbus, We unearthed
a massive floor 10 by JO feet, made ni IS
ilahs of :i hard green bund.tliint* carefully
fitted as a tnosak'., each about 10 huhes thick
arw] 5 feet wide. Probably It was all that re-
mained of an aboriginal temple. Around the
flour we uncovered quantities of pottery, stone
axes, and fragments of stones for grinding
corn. As in all the sites we had found, the
pottery was tin[win ted and underoraietl.
PfletJ Foisherib Locale Doors
Potsherds were a *ure due lo ancltnt housesites. Locations were easy 10 spot, beinc theonly level places in otherwise hilly terrain.
We could even place the door of n house; it
was where the pflc of discarded broken pots
was largest,
Escavatinsr archeological specimens calls for
painstaking care, both tn prevent breakage anil
tti record their exact location. Scale diagramsare made of each trench. On these each speci-
men Is entered, showing at n glance its relation
ta other objects found nbove and below it.
Collecting thousands of fragments of broken
potsherds may rot sound exciting, but the
archeologisl depends largely on pottery types
to distinguish various cultures and to establish
their chronological order. In the .virar wayone might trace tfab development of fife in
various countries by successive types of light-
ing fixtures used; first, pine-knot twrhes, thencandlesticks, oil lamps. gaslights, and finally
Hectric bulbs. Pottery, because it is more or
less imperishable, survives where many other
artifacts disappear.
Apart from helping to solve prehistoric
problems, much Panamanian pottery, particu-
larly that of the Pacific slope, is beautifully
designed and decorated It make* easier and|>prc-i iatioii uf the Indian civilization that so
impressed the Spaniard- of the early loih een-
tun,*. Many of the bowls with tall pedestal
buses would make decorative additions lo anyroom even today. They are embellished with
Grange conventionalized designs ri^presenting
birds, insects, animal?, and reptiles.
\\V next set out for the rough' country of
the upper KEo Indlo in a targe canoe pushed
by our own outboard rrwifnr (pages 274, tfff\Abtsut a mUe -allow the to- mi 1 h the stream
narrowed; here and there the tirjpfe of giant
trees touched overhead. Many fallen trunks
lay in the stream, and our guide worried lest
our propeller fou? on barely submerged log-.
Rounding a bend, we came upon two In-
dians fishing from a canoe with bows andiiitiiws, she latter lined with three branching
points. Bow-a nd-arrow fishing requires skill,
fur refraction of light by the water distorts
the poskkrn of the nsh, and the arrows pene-
trate only about a foot below the surface.
The fishermen agreed to pilot us through
the maxe of logs We took their canoe in tow.
wli&e one of them stood in the bow of our
craft and indicated the course by arm signal 7-
For six hours we wove its and out among the
lugs, the river becoming more and more shal-
low, finally our guides told us we could go
no farther by water.
It was raining hard. We pitched camp in
the mud ulop a .sleep, slippery clay bankabout 4.0 feet above the river. It was still
mining in the morning when the owner of a
near-by house came to inquire whether hernighl bring his family to our camp."They have never seen people like you," he
lolcT us <page 27J).
Hft volunteered to guide us to a "house of
sandstone" back in the jungle. Sloshing over
ill-marked trails, w came to a fantastically
eroded ravine. It ended in a natural cave
cutting through 11 sandstone formal inn for
nlHirjt ill) y.irds, like a large tunnel. A cluster
of |>nts hung fmrn the roof. This was the
"tasa de laja" which, according to lairs wehad heard on the coast, was the Towered ruin
of a masonry castle!
Our guide lerl as fo n near-by place wherehis uncle had found a gold alligator. Every-where- potsherd* were scattered, evidence of a
large population in the days before Columbus.We excavated until the rain became a deluge.
Rr\cr Ki-so K b'tcl (hcrnighl
.Ml the second night the downpour con-
tinued. Morning revealed a river risen eight
feet, an angry torrent of yellow water.
Since the water was now more than deepEnough for the outboard motor, wr moved unupstream to the village of EH Uracillo. on the
first large fork of the Initio. Here ancientIndians had terraced slopes to support, their
village. The modern inhabitants, takingjsdvaniagr .-I t he.v ready-made house ^itr-s,
cleared ihr area and built today's village,
the only one in this ptH of the interior.
A new <choolhouse was under corLsiructiim,
with n renten I floor and eurruguteiJ-iror* roof.
We received permission to occupy it. Whilethe rain thundered down on the roof, wespread our hknib'is and clothing t-> dry.We ftwn discovered that the entirr village
clearing w;is one In rue archci (logical -ite. Her*ive uuc'arlrii'tl poitery painted in reo\ black,
(Text omtwued i** ftcge 285)
Into the Unknown: the I- xpcdiiiuri
Start* I p I* tinoma's Km InJin
Thb Jink' town, rumrd R;a Indro alter ihe river,
*v»i the >rupitni/ poiiil of u iwo-wvrk trip Ink- luuntrylinlr i^haiu"<( -itie'i' the iUy* of ("oIumIau An itui-
Iwwrd nvoiar proprlJni tbw Z--ioat dugout until rupiiia
fnpjM*! it Hiniwj nUnd «n »t£lt« to ta&ipt Rund*.
I ' " " • 'Oil" • ' llH-l-Ji.l H in ti:
v Canocruen on the Km OilIl del Norlir
NVaJ«4l Often as They Rixie
Shooting a rapid nn Ihir wuy downstjciun. one heavycanoe iiruck A >nay tirul overturned. Carnerm amilefts** unk in ihf bottom <ii the channel. Rwum and
jukracs bobbr-d on tiie current. Pft«*n?er«, drenched
and I'xhaupli'd. lnircU reached salcty on a iandl»jir.
•-r m
1
1 J 278
4 ArchcubirfiM* Tnulinjl Prehistory
Gamp in tbc Jrrnidlc ul l^nmi
On one of ibc "dry" ^tion1
* mw sunny day* DrSlirMrttf main nnlrs i>n hU i!im nverir*. anil Mr* Slit line
cooks dinner. To ivoid flwdinjt* Ibiy ke*|i houtf well
ntwve rivrt level Flap* rrprwnt the National Cpn-(tarihLc Society and S«?ortv ot Womnn Grofffatjlier*.
+ Kvpniritift l*4»t% Broken 500 Ycur* Aftn
Tukirt Patience and a Delicate Tnueh
in camp ul \tnjar,i. \l.niu:i S-tirlin^ ermftnl* <*f*a»k*
duK up by the expedition's workmen,tk«> ail! pjvr
rhies to byconc atltum The uuasine with a Ihrlkiw
licuif wonhl|wit a* the jumiar icod. All ffaynwnt*
air numbered and lntwtal Ihr iLlv Lhtv Arc loond.
2i (f mMvbb in MiUtnul U»**iyijriiB llirfijUiiJu* JHiia*it K. »n«»ai-t
Fxpcdiiion Nkinlier* Tunc I Kucky Trail ta x Mnunlainlup Uurea) Ground of the Aticu-tiN
SiiBL'un Canir, lnuil Umlimnrr, (ruiiji*> srtlnrotopblD to a the mar EI Union. Ccntc u ihe iurthiat horseman Hffcwutt uucartiivil U1I tvliflitritil vjmv witb tnmril ilL-^icn*. n Ijpp not prn'inmly nuieU in Parwnta.
Revealed o Prehistoric Burial of an Ancestral Tomb
Indians ol PMflAinft'i lOtitH CO«t untDmbcd tadr dead Dp Slifcfcp G«ge (nutn) trealrd native Ui« at El
In dwp chwwhijrft, D», Stirfln* surveys A *it« luuml Uracfllo. Sh«r scored u prulr»jiirutl itiumph h_v (nilline
by Alrjandxo l.opca (sitlltiB). An umaimr Tcheotogirt, n toath far the Jealous hu1 {lain nuJicd mcilicinr munMrs. Stirling §wk> thade liam tic loa-dcgnv hrut. I
1 bareheaded si ccnlrr nvrhl). A ur*r [WH Clvtft >
Brush Inn have ck-ur^rj lh* Ut\t[ l«r crop* held IchkI arid ilrltih for Ihr duail nun's spirit
A l-inecrn in Br. .ml Ttailighi? Dr. Strrfinji CurWtf* Ii tu Light Cuvc Tnnibn in tliu Cuny-nn
Ihlanl Pimonoroi stands In a vatby u'hirli Ihr Iri*!jim* mailc u populqijiin center Ionic before Spaniards arrU'fil,
The mwii'rn town dates ii tbc diji i>£ the Oionui-ilaiinr*.
5£
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If It's ihff P1inriisjrfiphcr> IlirrKdny.
I lc Can Ciul in the Picture
Silinlia* ftmt frirmlt i.vlrlirnlc with Brrhafi FT.
Slmrart flt?£l>. National UcuirxiipLk laruernmiui. ourI-J PinluiU. Hr Sins au amjMninl the aurtiur on II
expedition* to Mexico Ami ["irxam.t- M» Betty liintx,
u I rami nf ilii' Stirling*, taiinthn u lislloon
V Zipping Shur ihc Mo*qui«i NotIn lW*iitiinc Ritual in die- .lunula
In Mtalilbhrd mnips ihc cxpediiiun mtrubn* *b |ti
on canvas colt with ait Rtailrnruet, hut nn iiinzle trip*
Iht-y carried array tmnimorki. Koaih ol ho* In mon-key* arul chirp* nt btfCtft and Iruea punrtualtil Mr*Stirtinit's ninht m this *ror* on the Rio Cnacaj&J.
Hunting Prehistory in Panama Jun^Us 2S5
and purple, with designs- thai clearly showedconnections with the rich cultures that once
existed across the muunlam divide. li con-
i rosted sharply with unpointed, simpler pot-
(erv we liad found nrarer the coast.
Polished stone axes and arrowheads in
abundance resembled the coastal types, but a.vtrwiu; blending with the culture* on the Pa-
cific crta#t also was evident.
The ancient tribes living on the Pin ifu slope
WrIV C|lli| i* advanced .lint knew, lor install e,
the art of K"l'l platinK b-ase metal*. Theymanofariiirrd lieaiitihd rwIjThrorne pottery,
stone, and bone, and mounted emeralds andsefnipredoas Mimes In gold settings. Theirlavish use of gold led ta their early destruction
by rhe Spaniards.
(^Jiiipcriliijii for the \b-dii_inc- Man
Fir. (tnpee set up a medirul dime in the
scfcoolhouse. Suspicious at Qrstrthe native*
finally bepan bringing theft children fur treat-
ment. The women followed, and at hist camethe inen. unne from a day's journey away.Intestinal worms and aching teeih wrre lite
most common compliant? plus eoiter, yaws,iiud infirmities uf old ape-
The load medicine man, who clmrpes for
his niauii and herb remedies, w;is jednu* andsuspicious of this free service by an outsider.
Dr. Gage's final triumph came, however, whenthis local "medico" aI>o promted himself for
treatment for an ulcerated tnoth.
When we hail ;:« cpiirerj as large an archeo-hi»\\ al i-ollecUnn a* we coatd carry, we cammeddownriver and retraced our hike along the
const In the Rio Salud. The next day wereai hed ('ohm, bad* farewrll In Dr, Gage, anrl
loaded our equipment aboard TnmhaitQ fat the
trip ro rite Porte del Xorte.
Heavy sens at first forced iw back, but the
next flay wr arrived off rmr destination. Dickand Marion roI safely ashore with the first
canoe-load of bajcpafre, but Bab Rand* and 1
were not so lucky Crossing the fiar in ihcheavy surf on the second trip, ihe tanoe twice
veered sideways and heavy combers brokeover us. half swamping the craft.
We hired a native, DntninKO Sanuina, tn
Eiiide U5 and started upriver in (wo large
canoes rented from Vidnl Gonzales, the store-
keeper. The larger craft, fitted with an out-
board motor and aimed the 'Queen Mary."liMik toe other in tow. To help with nurditnciTic. we hired three ol Vidaf* men, Ku*e-biu, Santiago, and Marcilio. About nrxm wecncnuntCTrd the fir^t rapids and rouhl nolonger tow the second canoe.
From this jwunl onward wr spent ntnre timeout of the canoes than Jo them, | w dtnu?. push-ing, and lowlne them through one HTM9 of
rapids after anoiher (paues 277. Theriver was a succession of rapids ajid deepstretches. In the latter we used the outboard,and in the former we- used main stteninh.
Fig-earing Fi*h
Many huee wild fat trees grow alontf rftt
rivrrbanks. When a ^ust of wind came,meen fiys almost the wxt of tennis balls fell
into the water. Immediately tbc surface wMchurned by the rush of larjje fish. Domingotold us they were tarpon, which fairly swarmin the river during the sexton thr tree* arehearing. The natives use wild figs as bait.
I was naive riunitih t" throw out u |jlun
.it onr of thest' snots. \ fish took il almost im-mediately Although the hrake was on, theline scrtMimnl "ii the reel. Almost before I
knew what had liap|»rnttl, nil I had left wastin empty reel and a bh'<trred thumb.
That afternoon we reached ('ajioa, a rfniilt*
thaidied hou<e where lived an old womanwho reputedly knew of a prehistoric burialplace. She ted us up the riverbank to a ter-
race. After poking aLnmt in the jangle few
half an hour, she halted and announced thatWe stood or the ejuci place,
"Hip <iie did not liHik promising, m we ;c4crd
for more details. Thirty years ago, it cameout, -he and her family had lived in :i houseon this spot Al nhrhl *he heard noise* urwter
the "round that sounded like the e linking of
roins. GhoTSla of ancient inhabitants burialthere wre obviously counting their cold!We disked why they had not dug it up them-
^elw. She replied thm they werr ifnod.'ITiis was hut one of many - i* h wihbpooir
chases wc experienced in our searches.Hidden in the jungle near C.-iiio.i, up the
&rrWD San Antonio. wt« citroe upon remainsof old Spanish pn1d wnrkinfES. Tunnets (fag
(irolntbly by Indian nlavefi were ^tLU visible.
Tbouich lore since callarrsed. A few large mill-
jtonts lay coverwl \iith underzromh.
\lcnt irtriii llic J unit Ie
Our fluid* shot tsaine for u*. flnr favorite
was "painted rabbit," or paat. Thic larperodent, wei^hini^ about 20 pounds, has a deli-cious ilnvor re^nihling rtork. Kven tou^htapir steak* lM>came pabtable when treatedwith tender!zer and conkn I 5wiss>st>de.
Wr also shot an rjccasjiiiial rleer or cutassow,
the latter n bird rahited to the wild turkey.
1 dually we were able tn purrhaer rice andIwnffhfl^ front tlte natn1^ and now and thensome quzs and chickens Palm nuts wereabundant and palatable. Our only Importedfoodstuffs were dehydrated soups, a little
canned fruit, rhee*e and simflir luxury items.
Wr explore! the Rln nwrlecito to the headof canoe navigation, which was take-off point
Tht National Geographic Maga/ine
for a tiifncntt two 4nys' trail across the moun-tain* id Li Plnioda him! Frnonomc. settlements
we reached Liter Ly another approach, Threesmall native children were si afraid of us they
hid at first. We gave their mother wait hard
qtniy, which ihey triad to swallow whole.
The rhnkitu* Willi h re.Mitlnl iliil mil increase
0W popularity.
A^eudimr ihe Cascajal, we found ii mi full
Of rapid? thai our two targe awoes could nut
he fully Inarled. Wr therefore hired two ad-
ditional small traft manned by Fndkin.i who-eIron! irelh were chipped to sharp paints. Theydo this by plants onr stone behind The tooth
and poundim; with another , Tht practice
probably originated in Africa These Indian*
ihink it not only adds to their goncj liwks but
also helps preserve thrir irrlh [opposite).
Waterfall*, rapid?, and [>Men trees often
blocked our progress (pate 27 Vi Kvenlualhihc stream opened into n deep, ralni lake, andwe made earnp. dry fur once, nn a hilltop.
From here we could see the Cerrn Iguana
(Hill of the Tuuimut. about 2,000 Feet fciyh.
which mark? the t "mil menial Divide In
four days' work we obtained a eood collection
of pottery nraamtnls and stonework.
It bepan rairuig the afternoon nl th- final
•lay am! poured all ninht. We «oi up al 5 i.m.
and broke crorip in Ihc dark and the deluge.
At fl hniifie a lit tie distance dnmom'am wep?' ti l I '-if
r ni!tl*Mn! jihI i »H* r r\lr,i equip-
ment Itfft there on Ihe upstream pull.
IV help rnrry our collect (up* wr hired a
-mat] famy manned by two Indian Fkivs amiInoded it with picks and shovels, food, andarrheolctgienl materials in rubber «acks,
Guidcng it downriver, the boys had a fine
lurk, fohing- as they went One srvrimeii
they caught must liave weighed 10 pound-.U> did not see how they "ot through the
rapids in their leaky, overloaded canoe, whichhad only nliout an inch of freeboard.
With (he worst obsiartes- behind ns arid
our an;heoIojriral work accomplished, it wantime to relax and enjoy the trip downstreamHad we known what lay ahead, we would not
have been hi carefree!
Trouble in the Rapid*
Early In the afternoon wr tame to the last
had rapid. Here I he river forks past an island.
The riirhi branch is shallow, anil the mainbodv of water follow* the Feft channel. Thewater drops iiIm mt 10 feel in a distance of
150 feet at the .n*ex of the rapid, where it
makes a right-anjsle turn..
Srwtnre'y En th*" annle of ihr turn protruded
the skeleton of a larue tree. The nttmlier twocanoe, needing lea water thnn the hist one.
tunk ihe right channel the swift eurrenl madehauling it through shoal water fairly easy.
DoniinKu elnteil Co lake the "Queen Mary"down die left-hand, deeper channel.
As we fame In the- aiitfle, Ihe forte of thewaier was ^renter than JJomln^o expected., but
by thnuUtnp auiiinst one nf the limbs of the
fallen tree he bareh prevented ihe bow fromswrroinc under it.
Suddenly disaster smirk \n eddy caught
the canoe and swuriK it like a cracking whipUM-'nst ihe tree, K use! do anrl Hick wen >wepi
off by a limb, and the stern was forced tinder.
The men managed in h,ui« «>Mto the limb,
which was over ihc rxvifo^t|wt i.f (he rapid,
but ihr craft filled and overturned.
Marion, In a raincuat and ld|c «im hat. pwam< nit into iheiurreni- A poor swimmer, I cluni^
ifoperaiely to ihe f>niom of the canoe, I
could not hold my prip. but the current wasso swift that, by the lime I slipiped off. thecanoe ami F had been carried down lo a sand-bar in midstream where the water was nhl>
low l)ar. Bob. Marcilio, anil Santiago hauledi heir ian»e ashore and haMily l^an gather-
Inn in the no,Oin[j njtophirnt. Domingo andKuvf*bio worked an empty canue along the
bank tind pickvil up Dick, .Marion, am] tne.
t l;iuicrii\ Sink tri ihc ftottnni
Our outboard motor, badly 'honaged, wouldnot ^tnrt. Dick* small movie camera tWo?lfll cameras and extra lense*. .ind a heav\nwivie camera had disappeared. We urgerl Ihe
men to hunt for then*, but they were pretty
well exhausted and Celt the effort would!k» futile.
I )nly Santiago curried out ibe search pr^b-
mi! and diving in the de*|w-r cbannet. Alter
half an hour he found one itv< ivie ejowra 200yards below the point where Ihe canoe went<>vcr In anoibrf )u\i hour he located the
still cameras and lenses
>iiHTiaL>" aL-it found Iwo of our most impnr-
Eani sack* of archei»lotfiral materia], therebysalvaaiiu! many of the seientific results of thr
upriver trip. Keerylhini!. of enurse. wa_* kit
irrulol. even the ihinfn in tied rubber sacks,
rarlmis fell apan. and our food, except for
rajincil ^immN, was mined.We tinally reloaded the canoes and drifted
downstream. paijsin.L' fnr a supper of wet
chetse and crackers. The rain Mnjtprd before
dark and there was a halfmoon The lower
river was calm and beautiful in ihe pair !i^hr
We reached ("Vie del Norre Iwfnre midnight, the third IbHQ we had arrived there,
anrl she third ibnr we had arrived saiklng wet*In the morning wr hung up our equipment
to dry ami *prea'l our
ibi il r-l i« « iL - nn Ihe pras>.
fikfiiriniiatdy aJJ the film
in the cameras was ruined.
Early thai rnnrnin^ weheard I he vund of airmtiir iivrr head and wire
surprwd In *ee a heli-
copter corning down to
land. The pilot prm-cd Co
he Cap l. Hal T Ihidytfn;
of the T. S. Air Force*
pirsj Ki — vir Squadron al
France Air Force Base in
the ("anal Zone.
Captain Ba*harn hadcome 16 Investigate ahuman skull ami bonesfound in the in Itrior byrubber hunter*, whothought tbey mieiu be the
remains ivl an Americanpilol loM during WorldWar II. A reward had
Iwtn posted for inforrrm-
li-Mk ab»«nt his fa(c.
After examining theskull, I wa.« able to iden-
tify it sis that of a mid-
dle>a$cd nartvc wotruit.
Since Dickw amuousIn wire Washington, I).
C. fur new carrier;^ .wl
to air-mall the cxpohrd
film not spoiled in die
river, Giptfttn Ba-shamflew him U* the iuse.
Next m*«naun Tumhntlnarrived from Helen, and
her captain kindly agreed
\w lake us back to {"olon
again. Theft were moretitan 100 bunches of ba-
ity
Ttvth Qitptwd lo point* An? a Mark uf Male Beauty
Afi ImUan «'nrkrn:in mt|ilu)<fU by lac cxpcdkttun in the jun^ta flf tioith.
ern fanutmi itritt-. [inujilly fa a rtitnUv pI bt* k»hh3 1<kiIls. The rflcvl hm liievnl In luiMins a rod* Uriiml rnd» lonth ami i"«i«iHnK with nno«her
Mnlv frnMl in-tli m |iuii.1ul 1 lu n;.iia i unfit a [Jjlm Uul •« i j t
-
u genuinr "Panama"' rut, Iwtiilly mailt
nanas to he ptJ aboard.
iwfi heavy loads (or the bi« JCMooi canoe.
Now, it eeemwf. our troubles were over,
Tlul how wrnnp we wer*!
When lluv raer relumed from Lakins out :he
second load of bananas, I bey said they were
Uteri and would malic only one more trip.
Therefore nil out haiisme. plenly for two trip*,
was pit I aboard \ native pasw-nger and a
crate nf tlvc chickens were arided.
We had misgiving when one of the nwft
told us tliui bucking the mrf was so bant
ihal one trip through it was worse than u full
ilav with pu'k and shovel.
Mrmlozu, the store owner, fortunately de-
cided at the laM minute lo go out with us.
Marioifc and I sat on top of the cargo.
Three of the crew were stationed aft and
two forward. Ench hud a Ions, heavy pole lo
u* in trnssinu lite bar and a paddle for ihe
deep water. We did fuirh well at 6r«t, i?oi
dear of the river loonrh, and bucked the
breakers for about 400 yard:?. 'IV canoe rode
deep in ihe water and was very dunlin.
Wave* Nearly Swamp (Itiuoc
We had juxl turnerl parallel to the surf lo
reach a *r»rt where the wave* were heavy,
when a bii: lumber hit us, pouring a rliinjfer-
pus amount of water into the du^ouLMrndoxa bellowed, "We're too Inwl
Work!" He took nimmand. shouting orders
In a few secimris another wave struck,
knocked Marion and me nff our scats downinto the open p;uL aft. and wwutal Marion
panly oiTCTbnnrd. In the nick of llnur she
was pullrtl l»ack.
190 The Xarinnal (jcograjjIii-L; Magu/irie
The. dugout was almitet awash. One of the
COM threw down hi* puddle ar.d started hail-
ine frantically, uml I joined him Our bails.
were plastic army helmet liners.
Mcucloxu mm- nioEjiihcenl , not only filyirui
his puddlr hoi shouting orders, keeping ihe
crew working tojwlher and .straining At first
we seemed to make no pniRix'ss in lailintf. Imlat last thr level bejrnii mrtKcaWy It* go down
Finally Jlendoza said, We are moving
ahead again! Keep working!" After wlui
seemed an mtermfiiable time we passed the
last line iif breakers ami reached the bi« rollers
nf the ripen *tcl We were wife. Hut all the
chicken? were drowned.
Linked by Sc» Baptism
As the Iranker In Ttomtftrtn vv.i- r.oiiiplcfrd
awl i he caitnp was about to rcEum to shore,
Mrndor-a said. "You mm I be sure to writr |.n
me. We all belonit 10 the same family now,
as we have been reborn together!"
Hail line more breaker Hi us. we would Itave
lirni swnmped. To swim in the heavy ^nrf
wwId have been impossible. We never should
huve embarked with «ilrh a heavy load, hut
did mil realise how badly ftferioadi'd the canoe
was.
Missing the boat would have meant a two-
week wait until Tumftaita'n rifxl trip, Fur-
thermore, the wind hnrl ltci-n rising all
ninrnini! .unl the. Mirl was heavier thaw on the
Iwn earlier Irip*.
Safely bark in the Canal Zone, we again
spread out our thru*!,* lu dry, thi* time at
\ncon in the yard nf old friend. I'auf andReTiy Bern/ Our water staked watches and
radio hud in Ijc restored In working order.
Tht* archei»loRiral colleriions, afie* drying
nut. went into the Bem/es' Iwsrrocnl for
temporary storaice.
Ncw were ready for the last le^ of our
trip across the mountains fflttfli the unfriendly
land thai had hi ne.irK defeat rd us. There
we hoped In find remains of ancient cultural
mnnection* lierween thai upland region andthe country we li.id just explored on the one
hand, and the belter-known cultures df
Panama's- Piirlfii" lowlands OH the other.
Go-jU M«nc- Out, Explorers Move In
In 1.4 Pintaihi, a pitturmjur villas** north-
west of Penoniimf fpttjtc 281), we rented an
earth-floored, lile-mofcd adobe hull1* from the
li "1 1 < hinese st i >rr I;eepe r, who M ly
drove oul the goats and eat tie living there.
Mari'iu uLiThrml ^\eel->raeIJine urchid> kiiuvvn
li rally a« Senwuia Santa (Bnly Weeki in
euunteract aomewhrii iheir otlur.
In Ihe ncar-hy muutitiiu^ Voliino-rrs fromla Pitiiafli helpefl us liKUIe ca\Tt thlO were
aboriginal tomb*. Some of the?*' were danger-
ously placed on the- facts of hi_^h cliffs, upwhich ihr ImwIu*^ mtfr earrlwl Thi* toeihiHl
of burial b&» oot been previously rrptvrlpil
from Pnn:im:j, nor is it mentioned in early
aconmts.With the memorv of our menl narrow
esc^pei; si ill viviri, I fefi as I climbed up in
thriii sonirwhAJ like the ent wh« h already hail
ln-l t'itflu of lis nine Tivps.
Twn wide expanses of bare rock, one rm lh»"
fide of a high hill and the other in the mlrlifiV
of a $ireani, were awrej wiili ^citiicular andmyMerioiis pf tr. glyphs (page tf&hOld frk'mfci, ihf ( note family of T'enoimme,
led us to a Tomb site near a place called
Kl IJmnn in ihe mountains 4|w«c There
Don Miguel Cortl* had TOWoVrrcd a fim*
inlk'ctiou of ncW-type pottery^ which be pre-
sented to jtn for llie \ \ S. \ational Muwum
Ln*t Find Hichcsi of All
Wo ticxt moverl i*> Mojara, on ihe Penin-
sula de AttJefO, pililiiuu our Fi-ntS tool far
from the town of Oru, Here we found the
richinsl of all Ihr si ley we wnrkcxl that season
in Pitnaioa. tl vlelded u m.ii'niucetil collec-
tion of polychrome pottery rcptCSBptinK a newvatiatil of llie high Code cnltirrc o( the
Pacific slope (pn^e 27&).
One of | he pun in ey of civiluurd tribes in
Middle Amerk^i wa» the hunting of copal, «r
resin incense, in their religion £C«rrmoni(& Acone place in the Mo)ara site we found a c*h hr
n( mote lhan 200 *ipo*ui'shnpc*d mcenw burn-
ers with about 100 little h<Hirxla^-sha|>ed
stand* made for them to rest n{>on after heat-
inn, when the incense was finokinj: properly.
\rvheo|o^iia| material thus far excavnied
in Panama generally rlemnioa rales i relation
with Stiiith Anwrica- <Jold orrwiments m the
f»»rm ol froes. birds, and olher animals and
the iTfccthor] of plating copper with tfold are
^rKuactcrUUc of northwestern South America.
The mrthod of burying rhe dead in dee]i
ckmiUers hoHowerl M ihr ho#c of n vertical
>hafl b aJwi typical of both region?.
Our enijayntions in Tanxinia up to the present
supjxnt Ihe hehef Ihtd the pre-Columliinn fn-
dLua th iliwilions the-rr were mainly developed
from ^oillh Americuii origins.
Nvtirr aj rfian^r of artilrru fur ycitf Nathw*i Otoi^Anrr M>r-«nsr \h»M fv rrrefrni fa l*r pjficrt
af thr Xttlvnat Gto&xpklr fruity 6> rA*" (Frit ol J** m**f4 <*• ffki i** folIwUn w$m*4 ktitti 9*f
fmitancr, it ytiy .'. „•» tk* adtbtu timHtfit ffff yw#i" Otu*hfr mumh,t, Tfa Sntitiy ih+uhl ht nutiped of yrtmr
im4 *pnrinc Rrmil hiiU unlrr tte*i nf iVmrr, Oluntio, mil in (L&|H*wr»V"iR. 4>)d tfl* Irr iirU-r*, ( Vn |VrH}tn ••f-lriv) \X'n fr*j uV |*mM£C
TU £ AMERICAN STATIONERY C ONI'A YJUO PARK AVENUE. P£RU. INDIANA
duuxe pack ageiti motto kftektsj*h» i0'*>
wiuumatcium; k.nv£uii'E.s.at! in *iniM>r paiirr A rfmtiru-tir *
curi fuu-MwlriiLr fiAiiioarrv.hi'JUfncL
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d&iXiidnnU of failed wulpiom ai>tl cnu*Lnncn, nl-
inttied la Barrc bwauwc l«Cct,UDil here aJ^m\ i+ found
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3D with BolexMovie* thiil simjriy move were excising once, bat to-
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rf ,ir r*n «r|frt, ra iiMikr rraa'»£rw«»t cwrwf ihrtfi v|n#ifc . i * italic ?im trriiuIih rilmblt in llirir fcrjiuSiiif, ilik juur ilrjlir tn
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1"
The Strange Case of the Hidden Rabbit and the Allergic Prince .
.
At Hie Faiieur Inatiitire in PoHv the »Iop, it
about an Orient ul Pnnue vtho vtutcd thn faronmmedical center. Warned in adwmoc trut the Prjnec
was aJIcrgic to rabbits, the lour wjiv carefully
planned to avoid all roruii% in whtefc ibe uninuKwere V cpt.
Someone, however. din*t*ted (Jul exposure la
rahoitxould pcraiNy Iv harmful tothe Prrmx So.
one of the animal* w» hidden In a room through
vhkh Ifoc lour was to g« Amaanjjy enough, uponentering that roam, the Fwvrthada unkrnr uHcnric
attack!
How doc* medical trience explain ihl* Mningcdisorder innup j% aftergv *
Doctor* *aV that an aJJergy i* not a distai*:, hue
;i hc^nVncd jrtt>iTjrv/> lo certain iurnt;irka;i—rwil-
kt\stdusti. ammal danders, cotton fillings, foods
rtnd drug*—tt> name a rew Ibe allergic person
dimply cannot mlcriiir «ocb substances. When tfcnr
me h reamed, caicn. tout-lied or otheruiv crvcoun-
Lcrrd, Ihey «ri up a letftfkm which nwv apjvar as
a xluu eruption, a digestive upvi- Jieaduchc—and.
Hunt common U. .imIiitij cr ha* few.
Orcui advance* hove been made in rctom? not
only hay fever airTercns. but victrrrrf ol'other alfcr-
a* well. Tutliiy. for insuinix, then- are Vftjp of
identifying? the most obscure causes of allergy and.in many ca*c*. of Immuni/jng trie victim ui^amst
arte ul fending virnuiKc
Hits fj don< hy giving repealed, grfidual duwa of!He uikirv-produccr. Such trvnlrncnt— if nmWhtniaw fcwiy f/tr <t,'cr*T ri-i-i ^r/iwW.Y— may greatly, if
no* LL>mpkrLL'ly. renew allerpie symptom* m s$ per-
cent of the tu5c*. Some pontons, of course, are per-
manently relieved "imply hy avoiding contact ttilh
trunks Ilbwji EO he the source of their t
Though dunnlcr* .ire rnrvJy total, the
ftynjptuiut arc divl resting, and. in <esere cases, maycnu?*' *nch disconimri iiui both physical ami men-laJ health may suffer.
Although there it us yet m> "sure cure" for thevarious, iypes of allcrgees pnlients uho carefully
folio* Their doctor s ailviw w-an often he grcuUvhelped.
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The
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