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Torch Coral (Euphyllia glabrescens) overview The Euphyllia Torch Coral is a large polyp stony (LPS) coral, often referred to as Trumpet Coral or Pom-Pom Coral. It has long and flowing polyps with single rounded tips which are visible throughout the day and night, hiding its branching skeletal base most of the time. It may be brown or green with yellow on the tips of its tentacles. The yellow will sometimes appear to glow under actinic lighting. Provide plenty of room between the Euphyllia Torch Coral and other sessile animals, since at night, its sweeper tentacles can extend up to several inches from its base and sting other coral species. It is moderately difficult to maintain, but it is a popular coral that will thrive under proper conditions and excellent water quality parameters. Ideally, it needs to have moderate lighting combined with moderate
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Torch Coral (Euphyllia glabrescens)

overview

The Euphyllia Torch Coral is a large polyp stony (LPS) coral, often referred to as Trumpet Coral or Pom-Pom Coral. It has long and flowing polyps with single rounded tips which are visible throughout the day and night, hiding its branching skeletal base most of the time. It may be brown or green with yellow on the tips of its tentacles. The yellow will sometimes appear to glow under actinic lighting.

Provide plenty of room between theEuphyllia Torch Coral and other sessile animals, since at night, its sweeper tentacles can extend up to several inches from its base and sting other coral species. It is moderately difficult to maintain, but it is a popular coral that will thrive under proper conditions and excellent water quality parameters. Ideally, it needs to have moderate lighting combined with moderate water movement within the aquarium. Its aquatic home will also require the addition of calcium, strontium, and other trace elements to the water for its continued good health. It will also benefit from additional food fed weekly in the form of micro-plankton or brine shrimp.Bubble Coral (Plerogyrasinuosa)

overview

The Bubble Coral is a beautiful LPS coral that originates from the reefs of the Indo-Pacific. It has a green or white-ridged hard skeleton that can be seen when the polyps are deflated. When inflated, the large fleshy polyps will cover the entire skeleton, and are green, white or yellowish in color. Like many other LPS corals, they do posses sweeper tentacles that can harm other corals within reach.

The Bubble Coral requires a moderate level of lighting combined with low to moderate water movement in the aquarium. Too much water flow may impede the coral from fully expanding. The fleshy polyps of Bubble Corals are very fragile and will puncture easily. Be careful when handling these corals, to only handle them by the hard skeleton. Because they can form long sweeper tentacles, be sure to provide plenty of room to prevent damage being done to its neighbors. For continued good health, it will also need the addition of calcium, strontium, and other trace elements to the water.

It will benefit from additional food fed weekly in the form of brine shrimp or micro-plankton.Tube Coral (Tubastrea sp.)

overview

Daisy-bright beauty, gently swaying polyps, unique feeding habits and low light requirements make the Tubastrea Tube Coral a perfect LPS coral for the deepest zones of your reef aquarium.

Also known as the Sun Polyp Coral, or Cup Coral, its genus name, Tubastraea, is derived from the Latin words tubus (tube) and astron (star), describing its skeletal structure which is tubular, with stars at the tip of each tube. In the wild, the Tubastrea Tube Coral is often found on reef ledges or steep reef slopes. It is a colonial coral with a green coloration when open. The center skeleton is round with the tubes branching off in all directions.

The Tube Coral can be quite fragile and must be handled with extra care. When placing in the aquarium, it must be picked up by its underside. It should have moderate to high water current combined with low lighting levels. It will also benefit from the addition of calcium, strontium, and other trace elements to the water. It is a hardy coral for the reef aquarium, but is classified as moderate because of the special care that it requires.

It is one of the few corals that does not contain a symbiotic algae, so it must be fed vitamin-enriched brine shrimp or micro-plankton from an eye dropper directly to each one of its polyps. It will usually only expand its polyps in the evening or when it is hungry.

Green Striped Mushroom (Actinodiscus sp.)

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The Actinodiscus Mushrooms are also referred to as Mushroom Anemones and Disc Anemones. They were previously in a genus called Discosoma. These corals display a wide variety of colors, textures, and patterns. Some are solid colors, whereas, others are striped or spotted. Striped varieties are usually green. The taxonomy of the various species is in a state of flux, and will probably continue to change.

They are hardy and relatively easy to maintain, and under the right conditions, will multiply and spread very rapidly. In general, they need a medium light level and a low to medium water flow within the aquarium, although different species may have different requirements. They are semi-aggressive and require adequate space between themselves and other corals and sessile invertebrates.

The diet, in addition to feeding on nutrients and particulate matter, the symbiotic algae zooxanthellae hosted within the coral also provide some of its nutritional requirements.

It ships as several small chips of rock each containing one mushroom, glued to one larger rock. These mushrooms do require a few days after acclimation to fully open

Bulb Anemone (Entacmaea quadricolor)

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The Bulb Anemone is one of the most beautiful ornamental anemones for the home reef. When housed beneath intense aquarium lighting, Entacmaea quadricolor develops a unique bulb tip at the end of its tentacles. When hungry, this member of the Actiniidae family will stretch its sweeper tentacles to grab food from the water column. After feeding, the tentacles then shorten again and take on their bulbous appearance.

Though often referred to as the Four-Colored Anemone, coloration can vary greatly from one individual to the next. Red variations may be referred to as Rose Anemones. Generally, Bulb Anemones from Fiji and Tonga are shaded in soft browns, tans, or maroon, though an occasional green specimen is found. By contrast, the Bulb Anemones from Singapore are typically green in color with a deep maroon base.

The Bulb or Bubble Tip Anemone is found in oceans around the world. The Bulb Anemone attaches its pedal disc deep within dead coral amongst rubble or on solid, living reefs. In the home aquarium, the Bulb Anemone requires similar habitat and positioned amongst deeply creviced live rock or branchy corals placed in sandy substrate. Most Bulb Anemones prefer to find their own place to settle and may move about your aquarium until a suitable location is found.

For best care, the Bulb Anemone requires strong lighting in aquariums of at least 30 gallons. Under ideal conditions, it can grow up to 1-ft in diameter. However, most typically remain compact in size when kept under bright lighting. If the lighting is insufficient, the Bulb Anemone will expand its body to make the most of the available light. It should be kept with a Clownfish for best care. At times, the tentacles of the Bulb Anemone may appear stringy; this may be due to insufficient light or the need for food. Its diet should include chopped fish, shrimp, or worms if a clownfish is not present.

Handle this invertebrate, and all Anemones, with care. The Bulb Anemone can sting other anemones and corals that infringe on its territory.Frogspawn Coral, Thick Branched (Euphyllia yaeyamaensis)

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The Thick Branched Frogspawn Coral is a species of Euphyllia coral rarely seen in the aquarium hobby. Its fleshy round-tipped polyps instantly identify Euphyllia yaeyamaensis as a "Frogspawn" coral but upon careful observation, the unique features of this species become evident. Even when fully expanded, the tentacles of the Thick Branched Frogspawn Coral are notably short and thick, giving it a squat, compact appearance. Though the Thick Branched Frogspawn Coral is moderately difficult to maintain, with proper water conditions in the aquarium, it will thrive. The Thick Branched Frogspawn Coral requires moderate lighting combined with moderate water movement within the aquarium. At night, its sweeper tentacles can extend up to six inches beyond its base into the reef aquarium surroundings, stinging other species of corals and animals. Therefore, be sure to provide plenty of room between it and other neighboring corals. The symbiotic algae zooxanthellae hosted within its body supplies the Thick Branched Frogspawn Coral a majority of its nutrition. However, it will benefit from additional food fed weekly in the form of chopped meaty items, micro-plankton or baby brine or mysis shrimpAstraea Turbo Snail (Astraea tecta)

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The Astraea Turbo Snail has a unique shell and a ravenous appetite for algae. Unlike many bottom dwellers that are dressed in drab colors to better camouflage themselves against the sand bottoms, Astraea tecta boasts a pyramid-shape shell with beautiful, olive green coloration. Since some individuals have projections on the shell that give it a star-like outline, the Astraea Turob is also known as the Astraea Star Snail or Astraea Conehead Snail. Though interesting to observe in your home aquarium, the Astraea Turbo Snail serves a greater function of cleaning algae-covered live rock. It is very adept at keeping your aquarium clean. In fact, this small herbivore prefers to feed on nuisance hair algae, as well as cyanobacteria and diatoms.The Astraea Turbo Snail prefers well-established aquariums with ample hiding places and sufficient room to roam. In addition to eating algae off of your live rock, this member of the Astraeinae family will also clean your aquarium glass. However, the Astraea Turbo Snail is not known to be climbers like other smaller-shelled snail species. Care needs to be taken to observe the daily activities of this hungry snail since it has difficulty righting itself if it falls or is knocked upside down.Sand Sifting Sea Star (Astropecten polycanthus)

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The Sand Sifting Sea Star, at first glance, seems to be drably colored like most bottom dwellers. But closer inspection reveals a striking beauty and serenity to the alternating bands of brown and beige that dress this invertebrate's thick, spine-covered arms. Like other starfish, Astropecten polycanthus efficiently consumes mass amounts of detritus and uneaten foods. This nocturnally active member of the Astropectinidae family can move large amounts of sand as it burrows into the substrate in its search for food.

This peaceful omnivore will effectively clean even the largest home aquarium of detritus and left over food. Like other starfish, the Sand Sifting Sea Star will also consume small invertebrates, including shrimp, urchins, mollusks, bivalves, or other small sea stars. As such, the Sand Sifting Sea Star should be actively fed a varied diet consisting of natural food sources, especially in well-established marine aquariums. Otherwise, this voracious feeder will quickly clean your aquarium of detritus and then burrow into your substrate, starve, and eventually begin to decay.Blue Tang (Paracanthurus hepatus)

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The Blue Tang boasts a vibrant electric blue body dressed with bold black markings. In fact, the black that begins at the eyes, traces the dorsal line down to the tail, and circles back above the pectoral fin to create a unique shape reminiscent of a painter's palette. This marking is why the Blue Tang is also known as the Palette Surgeonfish. Regardless of common name, Paracanthurus hepatus fish is equal parts beauty and peacefulness that suits almost any large community marine aquarium. However, this active fish also loves to swim. Therefore, ample room to roam around your aquarium is essential for optimum health. Though peaceful towards most tankmates, the Pacific Blue will become aggressive towards other fish of its own species. Although Tangs will eat meaty foods along with the other fish in the aquarium, it is important that they are offered plenty of marine based seaweed and algae. This will strengthen the Blue Tang's immune system, reduce aggression and improve their overall health. Offer dried seaweed tied to a rock or use a veggie clip, and feed at least three times per week. Sea Veggies, Seaweed Salad and Ocean Nutrition are all ideal products and are very easy to use. Careful observance of the Blue Tang is essential; as it is more susceptible to lateral line disease, fin erosion, ich and other skin parasites than many other fish.Blue Velvet Damselfish (Paraglyphidodon oxyodon)

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The Blue Velvet Damselfish , also known as the Japanese Damselfish or the Blue-Streak Devil, is black with small blue stripes and one large white vertical stripe. As it matures, it may lose some of its coloring, fading towards brown and black.

It will do well in a 30 gallon or larger aquarium. It is aggressive toward other fish and prone to disease if proper aquarium management techniques are not practiced.

The Blue Velvet Damselfish feeds on a variety of meaty items, herbivore preparations, and flaked foodsAzure Damselfish (Chrysiptera hemicyanea)

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The Azure Damselfish, also known as the Half-blue Damselfish, is a two-tone, darting marine fish. The front portion of the body is bright blue. The posterior portion, anal fin, and tail are yellow. There is a species variation in the amount of yellow on the body of the fish. (Some call C. parasema the Azure Damselfish, however, in the aquarium trade, the Azure Damselfish is considered to be this fish, C. hemicyanea.)

A 30 gallon or larger aquarium will hold a single Azure Damselfish. A 55 gallon or larger aquarium is suitable for a small group.

In the aquarium, it can be fed a varied diet of meaty items, vitamin-enriched shrimp, herbivore flakes, and frozen preparations.Cleaner Common Wrasse (Labroides dimidiatus)

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The Common Cleaner Wrasse, also known as the Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse, occurs singly, in pairs, and in groups in conspicuous locations throughout a reef. Different varieties have different color patterns; some are a dark color with a silver streak, while others are white with a dark streak and a bright yellow area at the tail.

In an aquarium 70 gallons or larger, it needs to be kept with a large number of community fish which it can clean and thus obtain food. When first introduced into the aquarium, live saltwater feeder shrimp should be used to entice this fish to eat. It may accept substitute foods such as chopped seafoods, brine shrimp, and live black worms. It should be fed at least three times daily. This species of Cleaner Wrasse is more hardy than the others, but is still difficult to feed and maintain, and should only be kept by experienced aquarists.Pink Spotted Watchman Goby (Cryptocentrus leptocephalus)

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The Spotted Watchman Goby is also known as the Pink and Blue Spotted, Singapore Shrimp, Leptocephalus Prawn, or Pinkspotted Shrimp Goby. The head and body are yellow to tan with pink spots surrounded by smaller blue spots. It requires a 30 gallon or larger aquarium with plenty of loose coral rubble, ample swimming room, and a sand bottom for burrowing. It rarely becomes aggressive towards other fish, but it is territorial, and will fight with its own kind unless they are a mated pair. It may try to jump out of the aquarium or other small openings, therefore, a tight-fitting lid is required.

The Spotted Watchman Goby diet should include a variety of mysis shrimp, vitamin-enriched brine shrimp, table shrimp, and frozen food preparations for carnivores. It should be fed at least twice per day.Maroon Clownfish (Premnas biaculeatus)

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The Maroon Clownfish, also known as the Spine-Cheeked Anemonefish or Maroon Anemonefish, has a bold, red body color with a broad white stripe on the forehead, and white stripes on its midsection and in front of the anal fin.

A 30 gallon or larger aquarium is desirable as is a host anemone such as Bubbletip Sea Anemone (Entacmaea quadricolor). It is aggressive towards other clownfish, and they are difficult to maintain together in the same aquarium.

The Maroon Clownfish diet consists of meaty items such as frozen shrimp and herbivore preparations.

Do not move the Maroon Clownfish with a net as its cheekspines will become entangled. Use a specimen container if capture is necessary. It is difficult to maintain more than one maroon clown in the aqurium unless they are a pair. These fish like to fight among themselves.Hammer Coral (Euphyllia ancora)

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The Hammer Coral is a large polyp stony (LPS) coral and often referred to as Euphyllia Hammer Coralor Anchor Coral. Its polyps are visible throughout the day and night and hide its skeletal base. It may be green, tan, or brown in color, with lime green or yellow tips on the ends of its tentacles that glow under actinic lighting. It is moderately difficult to maintain, but with proper water conditions in the aquarium, it will thrive. It will require moderate lighting combined with moderate water movement within the aquarium. At night, its sweeper tentacles can extend up to six inches in the reef aquarium, stinging other species of corals and animals. Allow plenty of room between it and other neighboring corals. For continued good health, it will also require the addition of calcium, strontium, and other trace elements to the water. It will benefit from additional food fed weekly in the form of micro-plankton or brine shrimp.Colony Polyp, Orange Spot (Zoanthus sp.)

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The Orange Spot Colony Polyp Coral, also referred to as a Sea Mat, or Button Polyp, originates from the reefs of Indonesia. They are a colonial coral that under the right conditions will rapidly spread across the rockwork of the aquarium. This variety of Zoanthus has bright orange centers and green tentacles. These polyps have the ability to sting other polyps or corals. While the sting is not strong, they are semi-aggressive and need to have space between their colony and any neighbors since they tend to crowd them out. They are easy to maintain, making them a good choice for beginner reef aquarists. They require a moderate light level combined with a medium water movement within the aquarium. They will adapt and become more brightly colored under intense lighting. They will reproduce easily in the reef aquarium by budding (splitting off a portion of their base or mouth), which will increase the size of their colony. It is common to receive a rock that is not completely covered in polyps. However, under the right conditions, they will quickly spread across this and surrounding rocks in the aquarium.Niger Triggerfish (Odonus niger)

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The Niger Trigger or Redtooth Trigger is a striking fish for the home aquarium. The exact color of the Niger Triggerfish varies in this species of fish, and can also change from day to day between purple, blue and blue/green with a striking, lighter blue highlight on the fins and long tail lobes. The color temperature of the lighting also plays a role in the coloration of any fish in the home aquarium. As an adult, they acquire bright red teeth, and are normally dark purple in color with a blue/green highlight around their face making them quite interesting to watch when they eat. The Niger Triggerfish requires a 180 gallon or larger aquarium with rocks and caves for hiding, and may rearrange the landscaping and rocks. It vocalizes using a "grunting" sound. They are a great active fish for the more aggressive, fish-only display.

The Niger Triggerfish needs a varied diet of meaty foods including; squid, krill, clams, small fish and hard shelled shrimp to help wear down their ever growing teeth.Four Stripe Damselfish (Dascyllus melanurus)

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The 4-Stripe Damselfish, also known as Blacktail Dascyllus, Blacktail Damselfish, or Blacktail Humbug, is a popular fish. Three alternating black and white vertical bands make up the body coloration with a fourth black band ending at the tail.

A 30 gallon or larger aquarium with plenty of hiding places is suitable. Due to its aggressive behavior as an adult, it will do well in a community tank with other aggressive fish. It will not harm invertebrates or disturb the tank setting.

It will need a diet variety of meaty items, herbivore preparations, and flaked foods.Teira Batfish (Platax teira)

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Also known as the Longfin Batfish, Longfin Platax, and Round-faced Batfish, the body and fins have wide vertical alternate bands of black and a pale yellow or tan.

A relatively easy Batfish to keep, the Teira Batfish can grow to an impressive size of 24 inches, measuring from the tip of the dorsal to the tip of the anal fin. Not a good reef dweller, it will eat many types of sessile invertebrates including corals and anemones. The Teira needs a minimum of a180 gallon tank with plenty of unobstructed room to swim. As with all Batfish, the Teira is susceptible to ich.

A varied diet of meaty foods such as shrimp, scallops, vitamin-enriched brine shrimp and frozen herbivore preparations is recommended, and it is best to feed it three times a day. This species of Batfish can become very tame, sometimes feeding from its owner's fingers.