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Issue 193July 2012
6.95mwb-online.co.uk
A SUMMERTO REMEMBER
An essential guide to the news, trends,products and styles of
spring/summer 2013
Young onesKey styles from the young, directional names in
menswear
BID for freedomThe UKs key BusinessImprovement Districts,and how
they are bringingcity centres back to life
Kicking off in styleThe highlights from London Collections:
Men
+ Flip/Timothy Everest/Concrete Studios/Crombie
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INSIDE FRONT Camel Active_Layout 1 29/06/2012 15:09 Page 1
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mwb July12 mwb-online.co.uk 03
Contents
Retailp13BID for freedom
The key BusinessImprovement Districts across the UK
p18OpinionHow is your tailoring offerperforming this season?
p19Retail newsThe latest in-store news
Gentp26In-season ideas
The key trends to top up onthis summer and where tofind them
p27Ones to watchThe MWB pick of the brandsto watch this
month
p29Picks of PittiThe highlights of last monthsPitti Uomo
p34The great Crombie comebackBritish label Crombie returnsto the
style radar
p36London calling for menswearwith a meaningThe launch of
LondonCollections: Men
Brand Guidep42Brand news
News, developments andinnovations for the newseason
p46Trend highlightsThe trends of s/s 13
Denim & streetp60In-season ideas
The key trends to top up onthis summer and where tofind them
p61Ones to watchThe MWB pick of the brandsto watch this
month
p62Building on foundationsThe future of ConcreteStudios
p64The young and the stylishMWBs seasonal young anddirectional
photoshoot
p82On the Flip sideThe launch of action sportsshow Flip
p85Stitch pickingsPreviewing London showStitch
46
22
64
85
36
p86Hurdling the OlympicsThe brands to catch at Jacket
Required
Regularsp05Commentp06Newsp22Interview/Timothy
Everestp88Peoplep90The Bottomley Linep94Q&A/Carl Easton
Front cover:Polo shirt, FarahCardigan, Selected HommeShorts,
Supremebeing
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mwb July12 Update 05
Comment
EditorVictoria Jackson/ [email protected]
editorTom Bottomley/
[email protected] Griffiths/
[email protected] Turner/
[email protected] Williams/
[email protected] editorSuzanna Bain/
[email protected] writerNatalie Dawson/
[email protected] editorAmanda Batley/
[email protected] assistantCarey Whitwam/
[email protected] Holloway/
[email protected] Lindley/
[email protected] Podger/
[email protected] Boyle/
[email protected] managerLauren Cooley/
[email protected] Adu/
[email protected] directorGill Brabham/
[email protected] directorNick Cook/
[email protected] directorStephanie Parker/
[email protected] directorColette Tebbutt/
[email protected]
From St Jamess Palace with HRH ThePrince of Wales to Pitti Uomo
in Florence,June was filled with the very best of themenswear
industry, including the launchof the UKs first dedicated
mensfashion week and the initial collectiondrops of s/s 13.
Last month, I had the honour of being invited toSt Jamess Palace
to celebrate the launch ofLondon Collections: Men, a development of
MensDay at London Fashion Week. The evening broughttogether some of
the finest names in menswearincluding Christopher Bailey, Tom Ford,
TommyHilfiger, Richard James, Christopher Kane, HaroldTillman,
Tinie Tempah (seemingly the man of themoment) and, of course, HRH
The Prince of Wales.
It was fantastic to be among so muchcreativity and skill under
one ornate roof. And,along with Prince Charles touching speech on
hislove for a well-fitting suit and his achievement ofsecuring the
number one Best Dressed Maleaccolade in GQ magazine, the evening
succeededin giving us all a much-needed reminder of howtalented and
well-regarded the British menswearindustry is.
The following days were filled with showsacross London, from the
Hospital Club in CoventGarden to the Old Sorting Office off
TottenhamCourt Road, where the likes of Oliver Spencer andTopman
sent a mix of models and everyday mendown the huge expanse of
catwalk. The eventpulled in big names, with the likes of David
Gandyand Dermot OLeary making an appearance, while our very own
Sherlock Holmes, BenedictCumberbatch, walked the Spencer Hart show
innothing but a black robe and cigar.
It was interesting to read the day after the St Jamess Palace
reception that research conductedby American Express found male
spending rose by4 per cent over 2011 compared to the previous
year,with men spending 24 per cent more pertransaction than women.
This followed Burberrysannouncement earlier in June that the group
has
experienced a 26 per cent increase in menswearsales, leading to
a direct focus on the menswearsector going forward. British men, it
seems, arestaking a place in the fashion spending arena.
Flying out to Florence the following weekto attend the 82nd
edition of Pitti Uomo, it wasclear to see positivity in evidence
from the word go.From speaking to retailers around the show,
thingsseem to be, albeit slowly, improving and, whilevisitor
numbers for the Italian market predictablydropped by 12 per cent,
UK visitor numbers at PittiUomo actually increased on last
season.
In this issue, we bring you our highlightsfrom Florence (page
29), as well as ourcomprehensive guide to the new season, looking
at the news, developments and trends of s/s 13(page 41).
As always, dont forget to share your viewsand opinions by
emailing, leaving a comment onour Facebook page or tweeting
@mwbmagazine.
Victoria JacksonEditor
A Buyer Series Fashion Business PublicationMWB is a fashion
business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd.Other titles in
the Buyer Series include WWB, CWB and Footwear & FashionExtras.
RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.
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Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232
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01Online clothing returnscost retailers millionsRetailers are
spending millions on clothingreturns, but multichannelling could
help, newresearch suggests. Although consumers arebearing the cost
of returning 13.6 million items,totalling 29.24m, the majority is
being paid for byretailers at a cost of 61.52m.
The high figures, which total 90.76m, arepartly due to an
increase in fashion orders placedremotely, experts say.
Returns are a particular problem infashion, where consumers are
used to orderingmultiple items in a range of sizes, colours or
cuts
in the knowledge they can easily send them back,says Neil
Saunders of Conlumino, which conductedthe research for Webloyalty.
While many retailersdo build in some cost of returns, there is the
dangerthat, as remote channels continue to grow, the costof
servicing the consumer also grows.
This situation would inevitably erodeprofitability, he
continues. The ideal situation for retailers is to minimise the
volumes of returnswhile growing sales. To do this, they may need
torevisit how the returns process fits into theirmultichannel
strategy.
Guy Chiswick, MD of Webloyalty UK, says the fact that customers
are increasingly using thebedroom to try on clothes should be seen
as anopportunity to grow digital sales channels. Traditionalstores
have long recognised that giving styling advicein the fitting room
can contribute to customerloyalty and sales growth and the
multichannelretail environment is well-positioned to bring
thisstyling advice into the consumers home, he says.
mwb July12 mwb-online.co.uk 08
02Community launchfor ModaTrade fashion exhibition Moda has
introduced a new interactive feature with the launch of itsonline
community.
Coupled with the announcement of theshows seminar programme for
its August edition,drawing together some of the trades
leadingexperts, the development aims to bring the industrytogether
beyond the exhibition aisles.
Moda Community, which can be found at
moda-uk.co.uk/community, enables exhibitors,visitors, press,
speakers, visitors and organisers tointeract with each other
directly, as well as creatinga personal profile for themselves. The
website alsofeatures a diary and appointment booking systemthat can
be used ahead of the event, as well asexclusive content supplied by
seminar speakers.
This season sees Clare Rayner return toModa, following her
successful debut at last seasonsshow. Rayner will discuss how to
develop an upwardcycle of customer engagement, including
howpositioning, PR and marketing are fundamental tocustomer
attraction.
Also appearing at the event is WarrenKnight, founder of Gloople,
the UKs first fullyintegrated social sharing e-commerce
platform.Knight will help retailers understand the benefits ofusing
Google and social networks such as Twitter,Facebook and LinkedIn.
Meanwhile, Ray Bucklerand Nick Pratt of Sitemakers will be on hand
todiscuss smartphones and tablets, and how to makethe technology
work best for retail businesses.
For full details of this seasons seminarprogramme or to register
for the show, taking place on 12-14 August at Birminghams NEC,
visitmoda-uk.co.uk.
03International expansionfor Chester BarrieSavile Row tailoring
label Chester Barrie has signeda partnership with Italian retailer
Gruppo Coin toopen three shop-in-shop concepts across Italy.
The brand will take space in stores inVerona, Mestre and Milans
Piazza V Giornate, while each concession will offer a mix of
classicChester Barrie clothing as well as product linesdeveloped
specifically for the Italian market.
We are delighted to be able to offerChester Barrie in Italy,
says George Orris,international brand director for Chester Barrie.
It is a nation that understands tailoring andappreciates the finer
points of good dressing. Weknow the brand meets the Italian
gentlemans usualhigh standards.
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mwb July12 mwb-online.co.uk 09
07Pretty Green eyesinternational expansionPretty Green, the
clothing label founded byLiam Gallagher, is set to open its first
internationalstore in Japan at the end of this month.
The shop will be located in the popularAoyama shopping district
of Tokyo, and will sit nextto the likes of British counterparts
Paul Smith,Stella McCartney and Anya Hindmarch.
This is a huge statement for us, and reflectsthe way the brand
is growing and becoming sought-after, says Nigel Grant, brand
director forPretty Green. Japan has a vibrant fashion industry,and
Tokyo a strong retail market. We see it as anatural progression to
have a presence there.
05American labels TommyHilfiger and BlauercollaborationThe Tommy
Hilfiger Group has announced its firstpartnership with American
outerwear specialistBlauer, for autumn/winter 2012.
The collaboration will see the launch of alimited-edition
outerwear range, including two styleseach for men and women.
Combining TommyHilfigers classic American styling with
Blauersdurability, the collection embodies high-end,
premiumperformance. The line will be sold in selectedTommy Hilfiger
stores across Europe, the US andJapan as well as www.tommy.com from
14 September.
04Rogue Agency andBodega DistributionmergerNorthern menswear
agents Rogue Agency andBodega Distribution have merged to create a
co-operative, trading under the Rogue Agency name.
Representing 20 brands, includingOnepiece, Beck & Hersey,
Fruit of the Loom, SMKand Deadly Sins, Rogue Agency co-owners
RobHilditch and Richard Dean, as well as BodegaDistribution
founders Nico Spirou and Chris Dodd,will operate as one entity
going forward.
With plans to renovate its current premises,Rogue Agency will
showcase each of its divisions,including steetwear, denim, fast
fashion and its Club 50 VIP area, over four floors.
Following the success of the Agencys newinitiative, Club 50 a
buying concept that sells Love Denim exclusively to 50 key
independentsacross the UK such as Accent and Sarah Coggles plans to
open a second showroom in Londonremain firmly in the pipeline.
06My-wardrobe.comextends global reachMy-wardrobe.com has
announced the launch of itsFrench, German and Dutch specific
websites, whichthe etailer hopes will create a tailored local
onlineshopping experience.
The launch of the sites follows theintroduction of the
Norwegian, Danish and Swedishsites earlier this year as part of the
brands globalexpansion.
We are delighted to launch our French,German and Dutch websites,
to be able to offer ourinternational shoppers a truly local
experience,says Sarah Curran, founder of My-wardrobe.comWe see
enormous potential in these markets, butour focus is on putting the
customer at the heart ofwhat we do with translation, local currency
andcompetitive shipping options.
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mwb July12 mwb-online.co.uk 10
News
09H&M teams up withMaison Martin MargielaFrench fashion
house Maison Martin Margiela is thelatest name to collaborate with
Swedish high-streetgroup H&M.
The partnership is thought to includemenswear, womenswear and
accessories, and willlaunch on 15 November across H&M stores
and online.
Maison Martin Margiela is one of the mostinfluential fashion
houses of the past three decades,says Margareta van den Bosch,
creative advisor atH&M. I am so excited about the
collaboration.
08Increase in internationalvisitors to Pitti UomoMenswear trade
show Pitti Uomo saw an eight percent rise in international buyers
for the s/s 13edition, with 7,500 out of 18,000 visitors
attendingfrom overseas.
The 82nd edition of the event, which ran on19-22 June, saw an
increase in UK buyers, whileGermany remained at the top of the list
of foreigncountries in terms of attendance.
Japanese visitor numbers were up,meanwhile, as were American,
Russian and Turkish.Predictably, Italian, Spanish and Greek
attendancefigures were down on last season.
This is a difficult time for Italy, particularlyfor consumer
spending, says Raffaelo Napoleone,CEO of show organiser Pitti
Immagine. Fashiondistribution is changing rapidly and will continue
to do so. I am not worried; I am a realist, andbelieve it is
healthy to have a few shake-ups now and then. I continue to be
convinced of ourcountrys fortitude, our ability to react, and
Ibelieve we will come out of this with a very differentset-up than
in the past.
10Ben Sherman strengthensits premium positionBen Sherman is
looking to strengthen its positioningin the international premium
market, following asuccessful reaction at the recent Pitti Uomo,
wherethe brand unveiled its new EC1 collection.
Since the introduction of the brandsPlectrum range in 2011, the
British menswear labelhas reasserted its market position within
themenswear sector. In the last 12 months, standalonestores have
opened in north, east and southLondon, Toronto, Canada, and South
Africa, as well as partnerships with premium retailers acrossthe
world.
Its an exciting time for the brand, andexhibiting at Pitti Uomo
marks another significantstep in our journey, as well as what we
hope will bethe beginning of a long-standing relationship withthe
Italian show, says Pan Phillipou, CEO of BenSherman. The Italian
market is of great significanceto Ben Sherman, and we are working
closely with ourpartner, Interjeans, to increase our presence
there.
Pitti Uomo is undeniably the most premiummenswear show in the
world, and therefore attractsthe best buyers in the world, he
continues. It willform an integral part of our European
expansionstrategy, with a particular focus on the Italian
market.
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09
10
Barbour and Vans launch capsulecollectionFootwear label Vans and
British heritage brandBarbour will launch a capsule footwear
collectionfor a/w 12. The Barbour by Vans range will beavailable in
stores from 1 October as part of VansCalifornian line of premium
footwear. Vans classicvulcanisation process has been used in
conjunctionwith Barbours signature waxing technique, creatinga
tough, durable design. Touches of tartan plaid,corduroy, leather
detailing and army green completethe outdoor styling of the
collection. The line willbe available at select Vans California
accountsworldwide and select Barbour stores in the UK.
Diamond Jubilee sparks surge inonline salesThe latest IMRG
Capgemini e-retail sales indexfigures revealed that British
shoppers spent anestimated 6bn online in May, equating to 13 per
cent growth on the same time last year. This performance marks a
return to growth in-linewith the last 12 months, and matches the 13
percent growth estimated for the full year. The upsurgeis
attributed to the Jubilee weekend as well as theimproved weather
during May.
Almost 40 per cent of rejected loanapplications overturnedA
report by Professor Russel Griggs on behalf of theBritish Bankers
Association (BBA) has shown thatthe banks new appeals process has
overturned 39.5 per cent of rejected lending decisions in itsfirst
year of operation. The process, which isavailable to businesses
with a group turnover of upto 25m was launched in April 2011 as an
initiativeof the BBAs Banking Taskforce initiatives.According to
the report, there have been 2,177appeals, and almost 40 per cent of
these have seenbusiness owners being given the growth fundingtheir
required.
Care Challenge raises 31,000 forpovertyThe recent seventh Prima
Solutions AdventureChallenge, supported by MWB and sister titleWWB,
raised 31,000 for poverty relief charity Care International. Teams
from the likes ofTimberland, Hugo Boss, Rampant Sporting
andSupergroup took part, with the latter scooping theaward for top
fundraiser, having brought in over10,000. Timberland has raised
over 67,000 forCare since the challenge was launched in 2008 andwas
presented with an honorary award.
Retailers fall prey to violenceA recent survey by the British
Retail Consortiumhas found that at least 35,000 retail staff
havesuffered physical or verbal attacks over the past year,while
retail robberies have risen by 20 per cent indirect comparison with
the previous year. Theorganisation is now working with Union of
Shop,Distributive and Allied Workers to promote bestpractice advice
for personal safety in work throughits Freedom from Fear
campaign.
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mwb July12 BIDs 13
Report
BID for freedomSince the scheme was introduced by the government
in 2004,130 Business Improvement Districts (BIDs) have been
successfullylaunched and are currently in operation. MWB speaks to
someof the countrys key districts to discover how businesses
arebringing city centres back to life once again.
LiverpoolEd Oliver, chair of City Central BID
Victoria Jackson: How did the Liverpool BIDcome about?Ed Oliver:
In the early 2000s, Land Securities[owner of two local shopping
centres] approachedLiverpool City Council, asking if the creation
of aBusiness Improvement District could be explored inthe retail
area of Liverpool city centre in order tominimise the impact of the
massive Liverpool Oneshopping centre, which was soon to be
developed. The fear was, if existing businesses did nothing
toimprove their trading environment, there would bea real danger
that Liverpool One would takesignificant trade from the city centre
area. The aimwas that, over the three-year period of the initial
city centre BID, the area would have raised itsstandards and
customer branding sufficiently toboth compete effectively with and
draw benefitsfrom the new development.
VJ: How did you encourage local businesses toget involved?EO:
There are around 630 businesses included inthe BID, with just over
400 of those being in theretail sector. In-depth consultations with
businessesand other stakeholders on the draft business planstook
place to broaden the support and ownership ofthe document ahead of
the publication of the finalplan. The City Central BID scheme
undertook anumber of pilot activities, including majormarketing
campaigns over Christmas 2004.Following this, the business plan and
votinginformation was sent out in January 2005,highlighting the
advantages and tangible benefits of establishing a Liverpool city
centre BID. Inaddition, the team spoke to every potential BIDmember
on a number of occasions to discuss theproposed BID business plan
and what it wouldmean for them. Ongoing communication with
BIDmembers continues, with monthly newsletters,emails and
face-to-face visits providing up-to-datenews and opportunities for
members to get involvedwith events and promotions in conjunction
withlocal and regional media.
VJ: What have been your key achievements to date?EO: Weve
established Thursday late-night shoppinghours throughout the year,
which is maintainingmomentum. Other achievements includeminimising
the disruption caused by the repaving ofmajor city-centre shopping
areas through liaisonwith Liverpool City Council, contractors
andbusinesses, co-founding the UKs first privately paid
for police station in the St Johns Shopping Centre the first in
the city centre for six years and alsoestablishing new partnerships
with Liverpool Echonewspaper. This has led to creating a
double-pagewhats on advert every month, with opportunitiesfor
members to provide competitions, listings andpromotions to 280,000
readers. We also recentlyreceived a Green Apple Environment Award
for theBig Go and Grow eco school project we ran inconjunction with
Land Securities, Liverpool CityCouncil and Arrive, encouraging
local schools togrow their own produce and showcase it at a
marketorganised for them in Williamson Square.
VJ: What challenges have you overcome?EO: We are working with
enforcement partners tominimise the impact poor quality buskers
have onBID businesses. A voluntary code of practice wasestablished
for street entertainers wishing to use thecity centre, including
identifying designatedperformance spots. Following negative
feedbackfrom shoppers and businesses alike, we also createda
chugger (charity muggers) policy to minimise theannoyance people
feel when approached bychuggers. In liaison with charity-led
membershipbody PFRA, a policy was created, limiting thenumber of
charity collectors in the BID area ongiven days.
>>>
Ed Oliver (left) with Ged Gibbons, chief executiveof Liverpool
City Central BID
A BID is a partnership between a localauthority and the local
business communityto develop projects and services that willbenefit
the trading environment within theboundary of a clearly defined
commercialarea. Introduced by the government in 2004, theBID scheme
has now been successfullyimplemented by 130 cities and towns,
workingtogether as communities to improve tradingwithin a specific
area. Established as a not-for-profit scheme, BIDsreceive funding
from local businesses to bereinvested directly back into the
economy. For further information visit www.ukbids.org
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mwb July12 BIDs 14
ReportBeeston,NottinghamshireCharlie Fogg, chair of the Beeston
BID
Victoria Jackson: When was the Beeston BIDestablished?Charlie
Fogg: The Beeston BID was established inJanuary 2011, following the
opening of a large Tescostore and the impending construction of NET
PhaseTwo, which is an extension of the tramline fromNottingham city
centre. Both of these factors couldpotentially detract people from
the High Road, andbusinesses felt something needed to be done.
VJ: What events and initiatives have the BIDcommittee
organised?CF: We are increasing the size and scale of events allthe
time, attracting bigger crowds to the area. Theseinclude a
Christmas lights switch-on, Chinese NewYear celebrations, Summer
Play Day and, morerecently, the Diamond Jubilee. Now that we
areinvolved, businesses are increasingly takingadvantage of the
extra footfall and doing additionalthings to get people in their
businesses. The conceptof B2B loyalty cards has also been
successful businesses offer discounts to fellow companies withthe
aim of keeping business local.
VJ: How did you encourage local businesses to getinvolved in the
Beeston BID?CF: By listening to them and finding out what theywant
to see through face-to-face meetings, structuredconsultation
events, surveys, forums and so on.There has, however, been a mixed
response to theBID. Many national retailers dont tend to
getinvolved as most things have to go through headoffice (although,
surprisingly, Tesco is veryproactive). It is the small businesses
that usually getinvolved. In the year-and-a-half that we have
beenestablished, attitudes are changing; we arenoticeably
increasing footfall and getting theBeeston name out there. Many of
the olderbusinesses dont see how we can make a differenceand are
unwilling to get involved they see it as anextra tax and a waste of
money.
BathSimon Pullen, chair of the Bath BID
Victoria Jackson: When was the Bath BIDestablished?Simon Pullen:
The BID was established on 1 April2011 and will run for five years
to 31 March 2016.Im the general manager of the Southgate
Bathshopping area, which is an 81m development thatopened in
September 2010. There are currently 617businesses involved and,
over the last year, atremendous amount of work has taken place.
Thishas included regular deep-cleaning projects in thecity and the
implementation of a Nightwatch radiosystem for the evening economy.
A successful eventand retail campaign strategy has seen the growth
ofthe Bath in Fashion idea as well as the Christmaslights switch-on
annual event and the seasonal retail campaigns. We have also been
working ontenders for waste management, lighting and utilities, and
these will be rolled out to thebusinesses in 2012/2013.
VJ: How did you encourage businesses to getinvolved in the
BID?SP: The businesses were sent a proposal andreceived a visit
from BID ambassadors to talk aboutthe proposed Bath BID in detail.
They were thenrequired to vote through a ballot system in
October2010 as to whether they wanted the BID to go ahead.The
companies voted for the BID to be formed, andthe key focus areas
were identified by the businessesas Managing, Promoting and Saving.
Around 80 percent of companies understood the importance ofthe BID
from the beginning, and were verysupportive. The remaining
businesses have growthin their enthusiasm as the BID has developed
andprovided a proven service to all its levy payers.
VJ: What challenges have you faced?SP: Bath is a fantastic city,
with stunning architecture,many independent shops as well as a wide
range ofhigh-street retail stores, being a draw to theinternational
and domestic tourist as well as regionalresidents. It is an area
popular to do business, beingclose to major cities and, as it is
not a business park,just off the motorway, it has a different
appeal toprospective employees and clients. With all of theabove,
there is a challenge to maintain thecleanliness of the city for its
businesses to thrive. Inthe tough economic climate, it is important
for thecity to promote itself as a stylish, interesting place
tovisit and do business in order to ensure that the city,as a
whole, prospers into the future.
VJ: Do you have any events planned for the rest ofthe year?SP: A
food event is planned for October. The annualChristmas lights
switch-on can attract an audience ofaround 4,000 as it takes place
at the start of theChristmas shopping period in Bath (Thursday
15November). We are fortunate that past local Bathcelebrities have
agreed to enter the spirit and switchon the lights, including
Nicolas Cage, The Duchessof Cornwall and John Cleese.
>>>
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mwb July12 BIDs 16
Paul Clements, executive director of Ipswich Central
Victoria Jackson: When was the BID for Ipswichestablished?Paul
Clements: We launched Ipswich Central [the BID scheme for Ipswich]
in 2007, and haveintroduced more than 3.3m of investment to
theheart of the town. In total, 650 businesses areinvolved in
Ipswich Central. We have retailers suchas Coes, for example, who
arent in the boundariesof the district but have still signed up to
be Friendsof the BID, paying a volunteer levy to benefit from
anumber of the BID benefits.
VJ: Having recently entered your second term inApril, what are
your plans for the next five years?PC: During the time of the
previous BID term, anew waterfront underwent a revamp, the
EducationQuarter with the new University Campus Suffolkand Suffolk
New College have been established, and the Office Village now
provides modern, high-quality accommodation. The BID has created
astrong brand for the town centre, and uses allmarketing platforms,
including social media, towidely promote the area. Something that
is in thedevelopment stages is a smartphone app, utilising
GPS which, when used in the BID boundaries, willnotify visitors
of changing events, promotions andoffers in the area in which the
smartphone user is.In recent months, the BID, together with
IpswichBorough Council, has jointly funded an InwardInvestment
Surveyor to target missing businesses,and identify the potential
for further retaildevelopment. Viyella, White Stuff,
CotswoldOutdoor and Office are just some of the namesadded, and the
new BID will commit to similarfunding for the next five years.
VJ: Which initiatives have been the most successful?PC: While we
have received positive feedback onmost of the changes and
developments weveimplemented, becoming the first and only
BIDaccredited by the Police has been a greatachievement, as has the
launch of the our StreetRanger team. The Street Ranger team
(pictured),who to date have walked 22,700 miles, are there
toprovide a reassuring presence for stakeholders, andhaving this in
place has reduced crime and anti-social behaviour. The
responsibilities of theteam will be extended, and some
experimentalSunday working will be introduced.
Nicki Williams, chair of the Worcester BID
Victoria Jackson: How many local businesses areinvolved in the
Worcester BID?Nicki Williams: We have 558 different
businessesinvolved in the BID, which is one of the larger ones in
the country. We have a good mix ofmultiples and independents
including the retail,leisure and professional sectors. Sixty six
per cent of the businesses involved are retailers. The BID formally
began as a business in April 2010 after aperiod of consultation and
a ballot in the previousOctober a result of a review of tourism and
city-centre management activity by parent companyVisit Worcester in
2006.
VJ: And how were these businesses encouraged toget involved?NW:
For the ballot, we met a huge number of themface-to-face this is by
far the best way to getfeedback and ideas on the projects that they
want tosee a BID deliver. We also ran consultation eventsand
surveys to determine the projects. Now that theBID is
up-and-running after a successful ballotresult, we utilise our
Street Rangers, which patrolthe BID area, to inform businesses of
the projectsand schemes that we run through their business
visitschedule. However, we also utilise social media,email,
websites and newsletters to encourageparticipation from businesses
often using casestudies from other companies who have benefitedfrom
a BID initiative. In terms of challenges wevefaced, when times are
tough and with the economyin the state it is, it has meant that
businesses want toreduce their overheads, including BID levies!
Astime has progressed, we have delivered more andmore projects, so
I like to think we have turnedaround previous sceptics. Businesses
who havebought into the BID have benefited, and we want
more to get involved. Generally, though, the projectswe have
delivered have been well-received.
VJ: What projects and events have the committeeorganised for the
BID?NW: We have run a Chocolate Weekend, whichwent extremely well
for large and small businesses,particularly retailers. Footfall and
spend figures fromthose businesses that took part were excellent.
Wealso ran our Uniquely Worcester campaign/event,which will return
this autumn and promotes andcelebrates independents. They give
Worcester itsunique character and benefit all businesses. We
arealso running The Big Busk, a day of busking on 14 July, which we
are running for the first time, aseries of street entertainment in
the run-up toChristmas, and a Customer Service Awards eveningto
celebrate the businesses that have received aCustomer Service
Assessment (mystery shop) andreceived excellent feedback.
Ipswich
Worcester
Aimee Lewis and Laura Woodyatt of independent retailer Halo
The Street Rangers
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MWB193 Main Document_Layout 1 02/07/2012 14:36 Page 17
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mwb July12 Opinion 18
Opinion/ Tailoring
Mark Taylor, co-owner, Pockets,Shrewsbury, Hanley,
Worcester,Newcastle-Under-Lyme, Nantwich(photographed with co-owner
Paul Platt, right)
Were taking a more sartorial route and looking atdeconstructed
jackets in particular. Its a carry-onfrom what we started this
summer. Its a bit of acleaner and more mature look. Sharper
dressingand accessories are becoming increasinglyimportant to give
a jacket and shirt a point ofdifference. Its all in the detail to
finish off an outfit.We found a nice English cufflinks company at
Pitti Uomo called Babette Wasserman fromLondon. She studied at
Central St Martins and doesa womens line of jewellery. She also now
does anamazing line of cufflinks, so were having a go withthose to
freshen things up. Weve also bought somegreat pocket squares from
Penrose London.
Theres plenty of colour around, thats forsure, and our guys are
just getting into it. Obviously,youve got to be a bit careful in
the UK, but a morecolourful pair of chinos brightens up a navy
linenblazer and makes it more flamboyant.
We have had a good tailoring season due toweddings and formal
occasions such as the races.One thing that every man needs is a
good suit, so ifyoure the groom, or have been fortunate to
beinvited to a function, youve probably saved up for aspecial one
say from Paul Smith, Hugo Boss orCanali which is a great
investment. And then, ofcourse, comes the shirt and tie and, now
more thanever, even the smallest accessories make thedifference,
such as pockets squares, a tie clip and agreat pair of cuff
links.
Its not only suits that are performing, butthe deconstructed
linen/cotton jackets haveworked really well, especially from
Hackett and Paul Smith, teaming them with a slim-fit chino
ordenims, and a shirt and tie for a more formaloccasion or maybe a
floral shirt or crisp linen shirtfor a more relaxed look.
Thankfully, guys seem towant to make more of an effort at the
moment.
Philip Browne, owner, Philip Browne,Norwich
We moved the business to a bigger premises lastSeptember. Its
4,500 sq ft over three floors and hasits own English gentlemens
suit department on thefirst floor. Were 25 years old as a business,
and Inow feel that were mature enough along with our customer base
that has been shopping with ussince their 20s and are now in their
40s to offertailoring on a separate dedicated floor. Ive alwayssold
suits, but its great to now be able to offer astunning tailoring
room with some very sharp suits.Its an area of the market I really
enjoy, and I dovery well with Savile Rows William Hunt. I
loveputting on a suit even just to go down the boozerto meet my
mates.
We were selling Helmut Lang suits in the90s, and Id love to see
a full-blown revival. Wevealso sold Vivienne Westwood suits since
then, andstill sell them well now. Weve just bought suits
fromCrombie for s/s 13, I love their product, and thecoats they do
are amazing I always wanted one as akid. And were looking at Tiger
of Sweden. It takes alot of customer loyalty to hand over 500-1,000
fora suit, but Ive built up that trust with my customers.Also, from
a retail point of view, if youre gettingmarried or being a best
man, its a compulsorypurchase, so its good to be known as the shop
tocome to for that. Im not saying tailoring is the wayforward, it
just feels right for my business right now.Its how weve developed,
and Im really getting backinto suits in a big way. Weve also been
selling a lotof Harris Tweed jackets, and both those and theCrombie
coats work brilliantly with a pair of LevisVintage Clothing or RRL
jeans and Trickersbrogues. Its an easy look thats instantly
stylish.
Terry Threadingham, owner, Lizard,Richmond
Tailoring per-se is not really for me. Its not mybusiness. Ive
tried suits before, including the Hugoline from Hugo Boss and PS
from Paul Smith, butits never really worked for me. You need to
have alarge selection and choice of colours and sizes.
Thesmart-casual look, on the other hand, is more for mycustomers
who are predominantly in the 30-50 agebracket, with a lot in their
40s who suit the casualblazer with jeans, chinos or cords look, and
who feel confident dressing like that. They like to mix-and-match,
so I buy that way. Formal shirtingand ties are not for me,
though.
For a/w 12, Ive gone for the tweed look interms of blazers, and
Gibson London are doing avery nice line. PS Jeans from Paul Smith
also havesome great jackets in checks and herringbones, andIve even
got cord blazers coming in soon fromNicole Farhi.
Its too early to say what Ill be going for for s/s 13. All I
know is Ill be cutting back oneverything! This season has been
disastrous.Summer is not a good season its too short. Assoon as it
starts, everyone is on Sale, so I wont betaking any risks. Ill be
buying the essentials andmore in-season. It needs to be commercial.
Ill stickto my guns on the smart-casual front. Thats what Iknow,
and what I do best and my customers inRichmond are attuned to
that.
Tailoring and smart-casual looks seem to be back on theagenda
big time for UK indies looking to smarten up their act,and their
customers. The brands are pushing it, so how are theretailers
backing it?
For more industry opinions visit mwb-online.co.uk
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mwb July12 mwb-online.co.uk 19
Retail news
03
03New premises for Utter NutterDenim specialist Utter Nutter
celebrated theopening of its new store in Romford last month with a
party hosted by Italian denim label Diesel.
As one of the first retailers in the UK to stockDiesel denim,
the brand collaborated with the store forthe celebrations, which
welcomed a host of customers,friends and names from the denim
industry.
Measuring 1,000 sq ft, the store boasts animpressive 14-metre
denim wall, featuring namessuch as Diesel, G Star, Nudie, Edwin and
new labelLast & True. Holding over 3,000 pairs of denim atany
one time, the store is among one of the biggestpremium commercial
denim specialists in the UK.
01Salford Universitycelebrates new talentSalford University
welcomed 29 of its fashion designstudents last month to showcase
their finalcollections in front of more than 300 clothingindustry
guests, family and friends.
It was the first event of its kind to be held atthe universitys
MediaCityUK building, where thecollections on show ranged from
tailoring andeveningwear to sportswear and military styling.
Five awards, judged by a panel of industryprofessionals, were
presented on the night, with theaccolade for Best Collection,
sponsored by Matalan,awarded to menswear designer Dhaval Joshi.
All the collections showed real forwardthinking in design, and
Im thrilled that thephenomenal hard work by the students and
ourteam has come together so well, says Bashir Aswat,Salford
Universitys fashion programme leader. We managed to create an
intimate setting in adynamic, modern venue, and we are
extremelyhappy with the success of the show.
02
01
02Westfield Stratford Citywelcomes New Era storeLifestyle label
New Era opened its 13th store, inEast Londons Westfield Stratford
City, last month.
The 1,800 sq ft shop, which launched on 9 June, houses mens,
womens and childrensheadwear, apparel and accessories. In addition
to its core offer, the store offers exclusive, limited-edition
products including London-themeddesigns and fabrics.
We have completely re-energised our designconcepts for our
company shops, says Cal Lawson,director of retail operations. Our
updated storeconcept allows for fully integrated merchandising
ofapparel, headwear and accessories, leading theconsumer through a
clean, modern and consistentretail environment.
Jamal Edwards of online youth broadcasterSBTV was on hand to
officially open the store, while cap trickster Mark Calape provided
liveentertainment. New Era stores are also located inBirmingham and
Londons Soho.
03
The DiamondJubilee gave ussomething tocelebrate
There were plenty ofchoruses of God Save theQueen in our shop
inthe lead up to theDiamond Jubileeweekend last month.
As it got near, thewhole fuss about the celebrations seemed to
lift ourcustomers. The week before the holiday turned outto be 26
per cent up. We had a cracking time onSaturday 2 June, when we
finished an incredible 87 per cent up on the previous year. It
looked likepeople were saying at long last, Oh, sod it, lets goout,
buy something new and enjoy ourselves. A lotof our customers were
having house parties over thebank holiday, and we did well with
smarter poloshirts, chinos and even shorts, as the weather wasgood
on the Saturday. There was a real feeling ofpositivity around.
We trade seven days a week and only closefor religious holidays
such as Christmas and Easterbecause thats what our larger
competitors do andwe have to fight for our share. The Bank
HolidayMonday, when we were open from 11am until 4pm,was good, too,
but it did quiet down on the Tuesday.
The lift that the holiday provided was muchneeded because trade
has been challenging thisseason. We were 20 per cent down in April
and fourper cent in May. Every week is a roller coaster withno
consistent pattern to trading. I have worked atHugh Harris for 20
years, and todays tradingreminds me of the patterns we saw during
the lastdeep recession in the late 80s and early 90s. Weended up
some days with only myself and MD Paul Martin working in the shop
because we had tosave costs. We used to rely on getting that one
goodspender in to make our day worthwhile.
There still is money around, but peopledont want to be seen to
be spending in the currentclimate. We can count on two hands the
number oflads who come in and drop 600 or 700 at a time.It used to
be common but, now, customers are morelikely to come in three or
four times a month andspend 100. We are also noticing more than
beforethat sales improve at the end of the month whenpeople get
paid. The big difference between nowand then is that we are better
at monitoring thingsthese days because of computerised stock
controlsystems. We are much more on the ball.
We are now looking forward to another liftin business around the
next Bank Holiday on 27 August. We should have most of the new
autumnmerchandise in by then, so we dont want it to be asunny and
hot weekend, thank you very much.
Lee Simpson is director/buyer of Hugh Harris inWoking and is a
member of the Fashion Associationof Britain (FAB).
Utter Nutter co-owners SanjayYagnik, left, and Kashif Qazi
-
This August will see the launch of FLIP, a new trade show
running alongside
Moda Gent for urban, streetwear and actionsports lifestyle
brands. A key destination for bothspecialist board sport and
activewear stores, FLIPis also the essential show for fashion
retailerslooking for the latest urban and active lifestyleapparel.
Clothing brands Quiksilver, Roxy, Animal,Kenny Random, Chirpse,
Rock & Revival, Timezone,Kangol and HoodLamb, footwear labels
Amazonasand Gumbies, underwear brands Puma andStonemen, and
accessories labels Sativa, Obag,Arrogance Accessories and O clock
are amongthe brands confirmed. Look out for spectacularlive shows
celebrating a decade of the Animal BikeTour and featuring some of
the worlds best bike riders.
mwb July12 Moda 20
Promotion/ Moda
Moda GentThis summer will see Moda Gents biggestshow so far as a
host of new arrivals join theunbeatable line-up including
established shirtlabel Poggianti, which will showcase its
latestspring/summer 2013 collection made fromthe finest Italian
fabrics, and British brandBrook Taverner, which will present
limited-edition tweed jackets alongside itslatest range. Other
names to look out for thisseason include Irish label Vedoneire
andSwedish brand Boomerang. With a moderntake on tailoring, cult
labels Farah andGibson London make a welcome return thisseason
alongside favourites Maddox StreetLondon, Joules, Florentino, Camel
Active,Remus Uomo and Roy Robson.
12-14 August 2012 NEC Birmingham
The UKs most essential fashion trade show isgearing up for its
biggest summer so far, with itsunbeatable line-up boosted by
brand-new launchesand international names taking part in the
showfor the first time.
NEW!
Quiksilver Photograph: Morgan Maassen
The biggest date on this season
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mwb July12 Moda 21
Moda FootwearNew labels joining the Moda Footwear line-up
thisseason include Panama Jack, with a collection offootwear
handmade in its native Spain, and Swisslifestyle brand Mistral,
which debuts three distinctivefootwear lines for spring/summer
2013, includingthe Mistral Authentics range, which is
characterisedby its lived-in look and nautical colours. Also
addingto the line-up of newcomers this season are Israelilabel
CoupleOf and British outdoor lifestyle brandBrakeburn. Mustang
returns following its hugelysuccessful debut in February alongside
returningfavourites Rocket Dog, Iron Fist, Rockport, Geoxand Fly
London.
Modas Sunday Social With Sunday 12 August marking the opening of
theUKs biggest fashion event and the closing of theLondon Olympics,
Moda will be celebrating Britainsmost momentous summer season with
a party not to bemissed! Once the show closes at 6pm, head straight
tothe event area outside, where we will be getting thisone-off
party started with a drinks reception and loadsof fun including,
Bar and Pimms Tent, BBQ and hogroast, live music, DJ sets and
more.
Showcasing contemporary menswear andfootwear brands, Select is
the area to findkey collections for the modern manswardrobe.
Selects expanded area returnswith a raft of new names including
thefootwear collection from leadingmenswear label Jack & Jones
and Swiss menswear brand Jay/K, which willshowcase a vibrant range
of denims,shorts and trousers in bright and boldcolourways. Also
look out for debutsfrom Palladium, Jekyll & Hyde, Mohawk,Mish
Mash and Andy Richardson.Returning to Select this season will
belabels including Wrangler Footwear,Original Penguin, Gabicci
Vintage, 1Like No Other and Guide London.
Want to keep pace withretails digital revolution?Dont miss Modas
freeseminarsSmartphones and tablets:How to use your new shop window
effectivelyRay Buckler, head of business development, andNick
Pratt, MD, Sitemakers The consumers new shopping accessory is now
asmartphone or tablet. This seminar is relevant forretailers who
want to learn how to keep pace withthe revolution of the internet,
and how they can usethe latest mobile technology to interact and
engagewith customers.
How to use Google and social media to increase your online
salesWarren Knight, founder, GloopleWarren Knight of Gloople, the
social sharing e-commerce platform, will help retailers
understandthe benefits of using Google and different socialnetworks
such as Twitter, Facebook, Google+,YouTube and LinkedIn. Social
media is here to stay,and this topic will help visitors to
integrate socialmedia into their retail business.
Other topics on this seasonsprogramme include: How to build an
exceptional sales and customer
service planDennis Reid, chairman, Retail PerformanceSpecialists
(RPS)
How to develop an upward cycle of customer engagementClare
Rayner, The Retail Champion
How to bring the shop floor to life with retail theatreKate
Hardcastle, founding partner ofInsight With Passion (IWP)
To register for your complimentary ticket to the show
visitmoda-uk.co.uk
Jay/K
Rockport
the fashion calendar
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mwb July12 Timothy Everest 22
Interview
Timothy Everest
Bespoke tailor and designer with a difference, Timothy Everest
hasbeen embarking on a series of collaborations including outerwear
pieces withJohn Boultbee at Januarys Pitti and with Hancock in
June. But surely themost unexpected of all was his partnership with
Superdry, which launchedduring London Collections: Men last month.
Tom Bottomley gets the details.
-
mwb July12 Timothy Everest 23
Tom Bottomley: Superdry might be considered astrange link up for
you, how did the collaborationcome about?Timothy Everest: Its very
strange like all ourprojects. We were introduced around 18 months
agoat Bread & Butter Berlin. They said they wanted tocreate
more of a lifestyle brand. I couldnt see howwe could work together
because we were polesapart. Six months later, they took the old
AustinReed building on Regent Street and seemed verykeen to get
into tailoring. A meeting was set up inLondon. There had been an
article in the FinancialTimes that had a picture of an Austin Reed
posterfrom the 20s, which was rather fabulous. It featureda
gentleman wearing a three-piece suit, but thecolours were all wrong
bright orange, yellow andbrown. It got me thinking that maybe we
could worktogether and create more of a punk approach totailoring.
We could be more playful and have funwith it. Were also creating
some amazing accessoriesin bright colours.
TB: Was it your initial intention to launch it duringLondon
Collections: Men?TE: Not at all. We started talking properly about
it in September last year. We started working on thecollection in
January this year, and presented inJune. The process has been
extremely fast. We wereasked to do something for London
Collections: Men,so we created a presentation and concept in
alibrary setting with models in the Regent Streetshop, which is
such a lovely building. It was deliveredvery well. In fact, what
they did in that top-floor areagives an idea of what theyre going
to do with theSuperdry + Timothy Everest (SDTE) product in-storein
the future. It still works with the rest of the shop.
TB: Is it going to be rolled out?TE: It will go into their key
flagships. They need thespace where they can service the customer,
becauseputting a tailored jacket on someone is a littledifferent
than just buying a T-shirt, but I think theywant to use that
approach to service right throughthe store. So were going to try
and look at old-fashioned retail in the nicest way even if
yourebuying a T-shirt and a pair of jeans.
TB: What are your views on Superdry in general?TE: Well, it is a
huge business, but not one that thefashion press would necessarily
normally look at. It put 100m on its turnover last year alone,
andadded another 60 shops. What a lot of people dontsee, but I
travel a lot, are the labels moves intoSouth America, Asia and the
Middle East. Its one ofthe biggest success stories not only as a
Britishbrand but as an international brand, so I thought itwas an
interesting opportunity if we could have thisroad crash between the
two of us. Could people bepleasantly surprised? I think people came
to see itwith a pre-conceived idea of what this older tailorand
this fashion brand were doing. But, I feel,certainly from reading
the press, that weve pulled it off.
TB: Is it going to be wholesaled?TE: It wasnt going to be, but I
believe it now will be.They really like it, and I see a natural
extension to itthat we can work on.
TB: How is it going to be priced?TE: Extremely competitively.
Jackets, for example,start at 175 retail and trousers at 75. They
want toshow people that you can get a good product forfantastic
value for money. A lot of young kids wouldlike to buy this sort of
product, but they dont havedeep pockets, and it has to cut with the
price points
of the existing products. Rather than it just being a poncey and
pretentious tailoring offer sitting inthe corner.
TB: Tell me more about this punk-rock approach?TE: We had models
dressed as different characters.For example, we had Shoreditch guy,
the preppyguy, and the LA rock n roll guy, with the coolesttattoos.
Its appealing to different people, but thecommon link is the
product is similar. Its moreabout how you style it within that
collection.
TB: And there are four different stories within
thecollection?TE: Yes, it was just a case of plundering all
thingsBritish. So weve got Super Spy, which is looselybased on
James Bond and 60s US TV series The Man From Uncle. The concept is
that we havejackets and trousers that match you can wear themas
suits, but theyre not sold as suits, aside from theSuper Spy one,
which is a great grey sharkskinnumber. We also have the San
Franciscan, whichfeatures a couple of tweeds and is based on the
early70s west-coast detective TV shows such as TheRockford Files,
with a bit of Steve McQueen inBullitt from 1968 thrown in. Then
there is CountryRebel, which is the original character I
showedthem, influenced by a young Mick Jagger and theDavid Bailey
photograph of him when hes wearinga shrunken tweed jacket and a
tight penny collarshirt. A lot of people think the 60s was all
crushedvelvet and bad teeth like Austin Powers. It wasnt.People
were using traditional things in a cooler way.So this is more about
the lost rock star in thecountry. The last character is Bank
Robber, which isMichael Caine meets Gordon Gekko. Thats why wehad
the guy polishing the shotguns at thepresentation. On one button of
each jacket sleeveweve got a logo inspired by the cuff link shown
onthe poster of Get Carter, where Caine is holding thegun. The idea
is to create a story. It makes it veryeasy for everyone to
understand.
TB: What about branding?TE: Of course, one of the things theyve
beensuccessful with is branding, but this is much moregrown-up, in
the sense that its almost putting all thebranding on the inside. If
you want to show it off,you can turn the collar up, but its
actually a little bitmore sophisticated.
TB: How will it be taken forward now?TE: We will play on the
word tailored. We have
already prototyped a playful version of a JermynStreet shirt. It
could even end up with a tailored T-shirt or a jean, to give them a
different area withintheir business, because as their business is
growing,it needs new product and areas, and this could be aseparate
area in that business something thatcould be broken out as a
concession. We need to beat a premium end for them.
TB: Are collaborations the way forward for you interms of
getting your name out there?TE: I think the business models we were
trying tofollow, probably for too long, were trying to be thenext
Paul Smith. But that was a different time, and a different era in
which he built his business aphenomenal business. I think a lot of
people of mygeneration saw it as first you develop a
retailbusiness, then a wholesale business but, actually, thewhole
collaborative thing has become interesting.Weve always had a
different approach. We set ourbase in Spitalfields years ago when
it was a reallyduff area. Then we got into British tailoring,
whichwas dying, and now weve stuck our neck out onSuperdry. So we
have a culture of a point ofdifference. Were tailors who design
rather thandesigners whove discovered tailoring. Were nottrying to
be fashionable. Were tailors who have apoint of view, so maybe the
collaborative side of our business is a much more interesting
business model.Well still have Timothy Everest bespoke
tailoring,and now we have a bespoke casualwear line, butmaybe our
ready-to-wear, which would normally bewhat we would try to grow,
will be collaborative. Wehave this idea over the next three years,
with somepartners, to create retail and e-tail spaces. Ratherthan
be reactive to collaborations, were going to be more selective and
work with the ones that workwell for us.
-
DIE MARKE DER VERBUNDENHEIT.
FOR CONTACT:
NIGEL PINNOCK (for London and the South of England) (for London
and the South of England) (for London and the South of England)
Morley House (Suite G. 03)320 Regent Street , London Phone 0044
2073230478
Mobile 0044 7968344969
MICHAEL BENNETT (for Midlands, Nor th of England and
Scotland)(for Midlands, Nor th of England and Scotland)
Suite 3 Wilmslow House /Grove Way / Water Lane UK - Wilmslow SK9
5AG Cheshire Phone 0044 1625540666 Mobile 0044 7973211655Mobile
0044 7973211655
-
mwb July12 mwb-online.co.uk 25
01Gent
Product: Sporting hero/p26Brands: Ones to watch/p27Review: Pitti
Uomo/p29Profile: Crombie/p34Review: London Collections: Men/p36
-
mwb July12 In-season 26
Gent
Classic polos and tailored shorts create a smartsportswear
option this season.
Sporting hero
Hackett, price on request,020 7939 6800
Hilditch & Key, retail price79.95, 020 7930 5336
Simon Carter, 48,020 8683 4475
Blue Marlin, price on request,0012 128682590
Nicole Farhi,27, 020 7036 7500
Robert Graham,24, 020 7603 4500
Ltd, 39.58, 020 8438 4913
Nicole Farhi, 52,020 7036 7500
Eden Park, 40,01732 852281
Pod, 12.20,01234 240440
-
mwb July12 Gent 27
Ones to watch
Lysander neoprene wellington boot. The most casual style in the
range is the
Valiant sneaker. Made from wax fabric, the Valiant is boxed with
a sachet of refinishing wax just likeall Barbour jackets. Cord
details and tartan liningsprovide a link to Barbours famous
outerwear, whilekey colours include navy, brown and olive.
The launch of the full footwear line followsthe successful
collaboration with Northamptonshoemaker Grenson, which continues as
a separateproject into a/w 12. The new range will be soldalongside
Barbour clothing as well as in specialityshoe stores. A capsule
collection of ladies footwearis planned for s/s 13. Wholesale
prices range from21.98 to 116.96.
Contact:01629 530416
Chester Barrie
Chester Barrie takes inspirationfrom 30s style this season.
Suit label Chester Barries s/s 13 collection isinspired by the
fashion of the 30s, producing arefined and sharp tailoring
line.
New this season is a wide arched peak lapelwith a single-button
fastening that is rooted in anArt Deco aesthetic. Other details
include a pleatedpatch pocket with scooped edge, and deep
turn-upson trouser styles.
S/s 13 brings with it a new shirt collar shape the tab penny
which is a modern interpretation of a30s classic. The colour
palette, meanwhile, runs fromrich chocolate brown to pale grey,
duck egg and deepblue. Solid colours are bold and strong, but
contrastcloths, such as pinstripe and birdseye, add texture.
In turn, the tailoring is complemented byboldly hued shirts in
stripe patterns of coral andraspberry, which sit alongside stripes
of yellow or redon backgrounds of crisp white. Wholesale
pricesrange from 45 to 65 for shirts and 260 to 350for suits.
Contact:020 7439 6079
Barbour
Barbour launches its first fullcollection of mens footwearfor
a/w 12.
Heritage label Barbour is releasing its debut fullfootwear range
for a/w 12 with a broad line-up of22 styles.
From sturdy brogues in leather to canvassneakers in the brands
signature wax cotton, each shoe is designed to be high quality
andhardwearing, with performance or weatherproofelements utilised
across the board.
Traditional styles take on modern updates,such as the Bavian
brogue, a tan wing cap stylegiven a modern twist via Barbour waxed
fabric. Keydesigns include the Ilkley brogue, also in tan, whichis
designed to be worn at more formal occasions.
Less structured looks include suede chukkaboots and leather deck
shoes, plus active footwearsuch as the Gore-tex nubuck game boot
and the
John Smedley
The knitwear brand offers arange of spring classics and
newsummer staples for s/s 13.
John Smedleys fashion collections for men andwomen are
undergoing a transformation.
For s/s 13, the word sport will be added tothe brands iconic
John Smedley logo, motivated bynew-found athletic influences and a
genteel IvyLeague styling. Collar and rib details as well as
cabletexture subtly fuse together, creating a preppy
moodaccompanied by bold colours combinations and stripes.
The Classics range, meanwhile, showcasesthe best of the labels
heritage, incorporating bothtimeless styles and new additions.
Extra-fine Merinoand Sea Island cotton are the key fabrics, while
thecolour palette includes a broad spectrum of 25 tonesincluding
rosebud and eggshell. Wholesale pricesrange from 5.90 for
accessories to 144 for sweaters.
Contact:0800 009 988
For more brands to watchvisit mwb-online.co.uk
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mwb July12 Pitti Uomo 29
ReviewFirenze furnace of fashionPitti sizzled in 100 degrees,
but the looks were super cool and driving the trends for colour,
sharp dressing and aflamboyancy not seen in menswear for quite some
time. Tom Bottomley selects his six of the best super-fresh
collections.
Riding HighThis is purist kit for sure and only for those who
havea select band of savvy customers who know their stuffand are
prepared to spend on quality. On the surface,to your average Joe at
least, it looks like a collectionof vintage-look tees and sweats
with quite a heavyprice tag. But Riding Highs sweat products are
madeon special loopwheel knitting machines of whichthere are only a
small amount left in Japan today.The loopwheel machines were
originally developedfor making luxury underwear, so premium
qualityis the name of the game producing a rich texturelike a
hand-knitted garment. The more you wash, thebetter it feels and,
importantly, the right fit andvolume is retained. Riding High
clearly takes itsinspiration from great vintage pieces, and there
area couple of fine workwear-inspired pieces as well asmore modern
takes on jersey knits. Its been going10 years in Japan, and will
make its second showingat Jacket Required this month for those who
didntmake the trip out to Florence.
CustomelloA new entry from Korea and a first-time showing
atPitti, already apparently creating a bit of a stir withsome
opinion-leading UK buyers, and being boughtby My-Wardrobe. Timothy
Everest has alsoapparently been doing some consulting on this
one.He sure gets around. The concept for the s/s 13collection is
time traveller. Fair enough, just dont expect Dr Who-style kit. Its
got a vintage feel to it, but definitely with a modern take. A
keyeye-catching piece is a leather fronted jacket with aknitted
shawl collar and canvas sleeves that zip off.All the leather comes
from Italy, and its very soft.There is also floral print (big news
for s/s 13) mixedlinen jackets, jacquard camouflage shorts,
chambrayshirting and just a general easiness to the collectionwith
nice little details you discover the more youlook. This could be a
one to watch, and pricedaround the YMC kind of mark. Good
accessoriesincluding paisley ties, hats and button-on braces,
too.
SeriesAnother little find from Korea with some reallygood pieces
and UK-friendly price points, thoughthe capsule Re-Code line, with
some more uniquepieces, sits higher. Interestingly, there is
nodistribution in Europe as yet, so maybe a good timeto get on
board if youre looking for somethingfresh and want to get in early.
Its funny to hear thethemes of the new season, with Series its
chimneysweeper and gardener, but if you weed out thespiel and look
at the product its definitely gotsomething. There are some great
shirts, unrefinedlinen, a field jacket and a mountain parka, and it
allhas an organic feel to it hence the bag that readsearth laughs
in flower. Quirky without trying to betoo clever. There is also
interesting footwearcourtesy of a collaboration with another
Koreancompany called Cocomods. Worth investigating.
>>>
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mwb July12 Pitti Uomo 30
YMCIncluded in this because I didnt get a proper lookat it
during the London Collections: Men show.There werent any
stepladders at the back! But it didcreate a bit of a buzz among the
buyers and seeing itfirst hand at Pitti you can see why. There is
plenty ofcolour, checks, stripes, hooded Harringtons,
subtleHawaiian-style shirting, three-button blazers justwell put
together and an instant summer wardrobeif ever there was one.
Commercial but clever with it.Easy pieces to wear, plus some
highlights for thebrave, such as the leopard print parka and
matchingcap. It also must be said that YMCs footwear seemsto keep
getting stronger. Its collaboration withFestival Original shoes a
mesh lace-up or slip-onthat originated in the late 50s, available
in navy orred, are on the money. Not only do they look rathercool,
theyll keep your feet cool with it. There is alsoa Clarks Originals
collaboration which has a certainedge to it.
FryeThe boat shoe still remains the top-selling style
forspring/summer, and Frye does some good popcolours. But the new
shoe catching key buyers eyesat Pitti was a new woven version in
navy or very lighttan. Apparently every single fashion and
directionalaccount from Italy that visited the stand picked
thisshoe up ahead of everything else. I did the same!The other key
selling point with Frye is that itutilises traditional footwear
manufacturing in the US,much the same way as some of the old guard
of theUK footwear industry do. Except Frye can make inits factory
in Arkansas and keep the prices morecompetitive. The Scotch grain
leather boots stoodout, as did the two-tone saddle shoes, and
therewere some fine brogues. The leathers really arefantastic and
the history of the brand and thecraftsmanship gives it real
credence, too. After all,the first pair of Frye boots were
benchcrafted in1863, and theres not many American brands
stillaround that can boast that.
Gitman BrosPrints and colour may have hit this summer, but
forspring/summer 2013 theyre going to be positivelyraging. And,
when it comes to shirts, ties and shorts,Gitman Bros from New York
has it properly covered.There are still what they call the remakes
from1979, so six or seven plaids and some Oxford solidsand stripes,
but the big colour explosion is thetalking point. There are a
number of prints theydeveloped in Japan, including seersucker and
Aloha-inspired prints. The floral and striped walkshorts are also
eye-catching. Not sure theyll work ona wet weekend in Wigan, but in
terms of holidaywear, and for those now looking for a bit more
thana chino short, theyre certainly worth a look (thoughyou may
want to keep your sunglasses on). Thereare also some Mexican
blanket shirts, and theprinted Senorita shirt is a favourite. A
nauticaltheme is also prevalent with some really nice stripes,an
anchor print and sailors pin-up girl shirt forthose holiday disco
nights!
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For further information and to make an appointment call Cord
Agencies on +44 (0) 1732 852281
www.uk.eden-park.comFacebook/EdenParkUK
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mwb July12 Pitti Uomo 32
Review
Alistair Porteous, UK and Scandinaviaagent, Mackintosh
Were working with Lora Piana Italian fabrics,which you wouldnt
ordinarily expect from us. But itwould be good to work with some
key mills andfabric producers closer to home maybe in the UK.
Were delighted with the response wevehad. Were showing a lot of
colour for nextspring/summer, and its attracted people to comeand
look at us for the first time. They seem pleasedat the way weve
developed the brand.
Ive been slightly surprised at theattendance from UK buyers.
Weve seen the keystores. I thought that, with the economy the way
it is, perhaps people might miss out on this round ofshows and
consolidate their budgets. But, clearlythey are looking to find
something that might bemissing from their businesses, taking stock
of somenew suppliers to complement their selections.
Its my 26th time coming out to Florencefor Pitti Uomo and, I
must say, it hasntdisappointed. Its as hot as hell, and trying to
sellraincoats does tickle me. But we had a record yearlast year
with Mackintosh, and it looks like we couldbe up 15-20 per cent
again this year, perhapsinfluenced by the renaissance of heritage
brands.
The people of Pitti
Andrea Cannelloni, vice president andgeneral manager,
Napapijri
Our branding is not as in your face as it has been inthe past.
Weve introduced a more understated look,including a blazer. Colour
is the big driver for us.
We are an energetic and vibrant brand, socolour is very
important. Its also more about thedetail and what you discover when
youre wearingthe garments. Camouflage is a key trend that iscoming
back, and weve done a technical jacket andswim shorts in camo, as
well as a bag, which we are well-known for. Shorts in bright
coloured washedcotton, meanwhile, are important for us for s/s
13,and weve added yellow, red, turquoise and purpleinto the
mix.
Before joining Napapijri three years ago, Iwas creative director
for Boss Orange for 10 years.That was a sporty line, too, and I
want to integratemy experience and apply it to Napapijri to make
itmore international and appealing for everybody.And I think we are
now taking the right direction.We are a lifestyle brand, after
all.
Alexia Hentsch, co-owner,Hentsch Man
This has been the best Pitti Uomo weve showed at.It is
definitely the busiest weve seen and the onewhere weve written the
most orders.
This is our fourth Pitti Uomo, and werefinally getting some
traction. People know where tofind us, and they come specifically
to see us for re-orders, along with new customers whove heardgood
things. I think they are more confident inHentsch Man now, and it
feels good.
Weve added prints and more stand-outpieces. I personally stay
clear of saying Hawaiian,as I feel its overly trended, but prints
are definitelybig for next season. This entire hall is decked
outwith prints! People are wearing them, and they areon everybodys
stand. I think weve got our staplesdown to how we want them so,
this season, wespecifically wanted to push the brand in a
morefashion direction.
Tom Bottomley gets the lowdown on the mood andemerging trends
from some key faces at one of thehottest shows on earth.
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www.johnsmedley.com
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mwb July12 Crombie 34
Profile
Prepare yourselves for the returnof a truly iconic brand.
Crombie isback on the style radar and lookssharper than ever. Tom
Bottomleygets the new plans from head ofwholesale Gordon
Ritchie.
Crombie must be one of the last great Britishheritage labels to
need to be rediscovered, shall wesay. It had never gone away,
though it might havebeen slightly forgotten about. But, what a
history,what a brand and what a product.
Head of wholesale Gordon Ritchie, himselffrom Aberdeen where the
company was founded in1805, joined Crombie last September. He has
beengiven the task of getting the label back out thereto the finest
stores and onto the backs of the styleelite a place where the brand
has most certainlybelonged over the years, having provided coats
forthe likes of Cary Grant, King George VI, the Dukeof Windsor,
John F Kennedy, Sir Winston Churchill,The Beatles, Clark Gable the
list goes on. When Ifirst joined the company, I was simply given
onetask to get the brand into the top stores in theworld, says
Ritchie.
In fact, since taking on the role, Ritchie hasvisited the best
stores around the globe, and itstestament to the brands worldwide
recognition that,for a/w 12, it is going into 17 countries.
Shopsinclude Barneys in New York, Wako in Japan andNK in Sweden.
But Ritchie is keen to point out thatthey are not just working with
department storesand classic menswear accounts. Were also
findingthat designer stores are buying into the label, he says.
Were working with The Shop in Korea, as well as Dover Street Market
here. And wereworking with shops selling a lot of heritage
product,presenting the coat in a more casual way to be wornwith
jeans and Trickers brogues. These stores arebuying the scarves and
pocket squares as well.
Philip Browne in Norwich is one such retailerwho is a fan, and
is honoured to be chosen to sellthe brand. When I was a Suedehead
in 1969, Iaspired to own a Crombie, says Browne. Its aniconic
product, so Im proud to have been picked asa stockist.
Crombie started out as a textile producer in1805. In the late
1800s, it started to produce ready-to-wear. The company is, of
course, bestknown for coats, and it currently represents 80 percent
of the brands business. It is our core productand what were best
known for, says Ritchie. Andthats been reflected in the first
season properlyback into wholesale for a/w 12.
Crombie hasnt actually wholesaled for atleast 15 years. Its only
been available in the UK inthe brands stores in London, Manchester
and
Edinburgh. We trialled it in Harrods for a/w 10, andhad amazing
success, says Ritchie. The sell-throughwas over 90 per cent. For
a/w 11, the brand wentinto Brown Thomas and Liberty. Three weeks
afterBrown Thomas first delivery, they came back anddoubled their
order, says Ritchie. The signs werethere that the timing for
wholesale again was ripe.
Crombie is presenting some great tailoring,too. You can feel the
quality of the cloth, for which itis globally recognised. And silk
scarves the perfectaccessory to wear with a Crombie coat are
provingsuccessful. Its a classic look, says Ritchie. The silkscarf
and Crombie coat with velvet collar and a flashof the red lining is
signature Crombie detailing.The coats are made from Scottish Melton
wool andhave a half canvas lining the original horse hairand felt
pressed together, no glueing or fusing.Its almost like the original
technical fabric, saysRitchie. The combination of the Scottish
Meltonwool and canvas lining renders them windproof.When I wear my
Crombie, I dont feel the cold.
Crombie is certainly making some productsin the UK for a/w 12.
Indeed, the brand has alwaysretained some manufacturing here, but
Ritchie saysits something they want to do more of. For thewholesale
launch, we have increased the pieces thatare made here, he says.
The classic core coats aremade here, for sure. And they are not
just in plaincolours; there are tweeds and district checks
(whichgoes back to a time when the English moved intoScotland and
started buying the land they werentallowed to adopt or create a new
tartan for their area,so they created their own checks instead) as
well as aselection of different coloured velvet collars, with
themore luxurious accounts being encouraged to haveexclusive
colours in order to offer a point of difference.
Also in the collection is a sharp short double-breasted number
thats got more than a hintof Michael Caine in The Italian Job about
it. The fitshave been tweaked; they are more fitted across
theshoulder and in the body a modern fit of an oldclassic, if you
like. Crombie has also recreated itsGreat Coat. Indeed, this is the
brand that made the
first a military coat that weve seen replicated andcopied for
the big designer names and the catwalksof Milan many times over the
years. It has been sowell received that there has been a waiting
list,though Paul Weller didnt have to wait long for his.
A classic Crombie coat retails at 795, but itsan investment
piece that will last a lifetime. Forwholesale, a 2.8 mark-up is
being offered. Thebrand is mainly using the best British fabrics,
thoughRitchie has introduced some beautiful Italian fabricsthat
have a quality and fine handle about them. We always aim to use the
best quality fabrics andthe highest quality manufacturing, he
says.
There is no big shouting from Crombie,though. Make no mistake,
this is an understatedrelaunch, a quiet reintroduction to the
rightpeople. There is no gung-ho attitude to suddenlywant to supply
every retailer under the sun. Its thebest, and the best only that
Crombie wants to besold by and associated with. And thats the way
itshould be for a truly great brand, and a product youwant to walk
out of the shop in.
The great Crombiecomeback
Cary Grant King George VI
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ourt | 131endle C41025 | 4 W Wendle C980 2
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eu..stones.uk | www
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Oliver SpencerBeing a major force in putting menswear back
intofocus by taking part in the Mens Day at Fashion
Week on the past two occasions, itwould be a dishonour to not
includeSpencer in the roll-call of the best the Brits have got to
offer right now.After all, Spencer is the king of thecasualised
suit, the don of streettailoring, if you like. Its all so
verywearable, as weve noted before, ashave many a good buyer. But
thats not to say it doesnt touch on theflamboyant in places and,
for s/s 13,Spencer has injected more colour thanever before. Bang
on-trend, of course.Red suede double-buckle shoes are notfor your
average Joe, but some of thebomber jackets, outerwear pieces
andsuits with workwear details playedaround with are for anyone who
likesgood honest kit with a sprinkle ofpanache and a touch of true
grit.
mwb July12 London Collections: Men 36
ReviewLondon calling formenswear with a meaningGiving menswear
its own London Fashion Week London Collections: Men being
theofficial title was a bold move, especially given the
organisation required at shortnotice, with designers needing to
prepare their collections so much earlier, even pre-Pitti. But, it
seems, the results were an overriding success, and expectationswere
exceeded. Tom Bottomley went along to some handpicked shows and
recountsthe highlights.
HackettYouve got to appreciate JeremyHacketts background in
vintageclothing and own sense of style andtheatre to know hes the
man to cut a dash through the decades and re-invent the classiest
of looks. When it comes to dapper, he does it withdistinction. For
s/s 13, hes revisitedthe Great Gatsby the iconic F ScottFitzgerald
novel for inspiration, witha remake of the film, starringLeonardo
DiCaprio and TobeyMaguire due out later this year. Cleverthinking
from Hackett, as there isnothing like a good box office smashto
inspire trends. Focusing onlightweight fabrics, Hacketts
signaturetailoring epitomises 20s Hollywoodstyle, with three-piece
suiting cut fromwools, linens, silks and cottons. Lapelsare wider
to complement the double-pleated wide-leg trousers.Other Hackett
looks included Riviera chic, which it is so good at
re-creating,both in styling and colour. Models dressed as typical
English gents drew theshow to a dramatic close. Donning bowler hats
and brollies, so long regarded asold hat, they sprang out to the
tune of Ian Durys Sweet Gene Vincent. Nowthats genius, and so very
British classic with an edge.
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Spencer HartThe show with the most pizzazz atthe old Selfridges
hotel withchampagne and a high celeb count togo with it, and not
just in the audience,but partaking in the show, too. Dermot OLeary
was beinginterviewed in the front row before theshow started, with
male supermodelDavid Gandy in a sharp suit proppinghim up and
making all the ladiesswoon. Kicking off with a troupe ofjazz
dancers, designer Hart was clearlypulling out all the stops.
Sharptailoring was the order of the day, withtraditional Savile Row
know-how mixedwith cultural references and styleinspiration from
the likes of the Rat Pack, Miles Davis, David Bowie andthe 60s
Black Panthers, as well as the British jazz-funk scene of the
late70s and early 80s. It was all aboutshape and texture, with
eveningwearunstuffy and caddish. A mood epitomised by actorBenedict
Cumberbatch (aka Sherlock Holmes)rounding up proceedings, coming
out in a black robe with a babe on his arm, smoking a cigar with a
devilish look in his eyes. Good fun, andgood kit, too.
mwb July12 London Collections: Men 37
RakeStill early doors but quite the flavour of the month isRake,
created and owned by Clive Darby, previouslyof Richard James and
Kilgour fame. It was a greatvenue for a show, too, at the new
Little House onQueen Street in Mayfair, a cocktail bar and
loungerecently acquired by the Soho House group, hencethe quirky
name (its not quite as vast as its usualbuilding acquisitions).
Split into two lines Mainlineand Lounge Rake again proved that
tailoring canbe ultra wearable and worn in a more casual way,and
his pieces are also designed to be able to mixup with each other
and work to a point, anyhow.The suede shirts looked great, though
you wouldntwant to spill your posh cocktail down one, andchecked
jackets and tailored shorts stood out.Tailored jackets worn with
baggy trousers could be akey trend, and there is a very cool shiny
ice bluereefer. The lounge collection is sophisticated
yetlaid-back. In fact, its quite rock n roll for eveningwear, and
is styled in such a way as torecount the morning after with bow-tie
looselyhanging round the neck, hair ruffled and six oclockshadow
prominent. Fabrics are second-to-none, andBritish Fashion Council
chairman Harold Tillmanwas overheard telling Mr Darby on departure,
Thatwas real quality. He was right on the pearl button.
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MWB193 Main Document_Layout 1 02/07/2012 14:18 Page 38
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MWB193 Main Document_Layout 1 02/07/2012 14:18 Page 39
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mwb July12 Spring/summer 2013 41
Preview
Spring/summer2013Your essential guideto the new season
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mwb July12 Brand news 42
Update
Brand newsWith the buying season now well under way, MWB takes a
lookat the key developments, innovations and trends to emergefrom
the menswear industry for spring/summer 2013.
Atelier GardeurDue to the success of its Traveller range,
introducedfor a/w 12, trouser specialist Atelier Gardeur
isdeveloping the line further for the new season,incorporating
Coolmax outer fabric for comfort andmoisture management. The cotton
fabric is easy-careand boasts concealed safe pockets, proving
extraprotection for valuables. The topic of sustainabilityremains a
key focus for the brand and, after its initiallaunch in 2007,
Fairtrade denim has now become its bestselling trouser option. This
has furtherdeveloped into the Hybriddenim by Gardeur linefor s/s
13, offering trousers produced using partiallyrecycled raw
materials with a resource-saving finish.
Eterna >>Blurring the boundaries between business
andpremium segments, shirt specialist Eterna presents anew luxe
two-ply fabric used in its three key shirtcategories City Dandy, a
tried-and-tested entry-levelrange of classic designs; Riva del
Garda, epitomisingretro Italian romance; and Club of Oxford,
whichtakes on a more maritime look. New features in thesmart-casual
segment include a summer peachfabric, characterised with a
soft-to-the-touch feel. Interms of accessories, meanwhile, bow ties
and tiesmade from Eterna shirt fabrics make their debut thisseason,
complementing the current range of silkties, which will decrease in
width from 8cm to 7.5cm.
Brook TavernerWith a move towards a more relaxed look, thes/s 13
collection from Brook Taverner puts thefocus on comfort and
function. Lightweightwashed cotton and military stripes, for
example,are teamed with linen and cotton casual shirtsand cool,
breathable trousers. Summer suitsfeature in pure linen, while
occasion suits areavailable in Italian mohair and wool
fabrics.Created for all eventualities, the Brook Tavernerjacket
collection features reversible blousons,lightweight quilted
jackets, Harrington jackets inseasonal colours, gilets and quilted
body warmers.
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43
OlympGerman shirt specialist Olymp welcomes a newaddition to its
Level Five range for s/s 13 the poloshirt in cotton/elastane in a
modern basic or colourblocking style. Also new to the Olymp Level
Five lineis the brands city/business collection, a range ofblue
shades complete with new collar shapes, whilewhite shirts with
trims in multi-coloured stripes andcontrasting buttons add
essential fashion elementsto the range. In terms of colour, neon is
asurprisingly successful addition, with pink, orangeand
yellow-green providing accents on piping andtrims. The labels
casual offer, meanwhile, featureslinen throughout for comfort and
style, sitting nextto the new colour-intensive Hawaiian print and
theintroduction of a new crepe cotton fabric, which iscross-dyed
and washed for a lighter feel.
>Since creating a dual-brand offer in 2003 with thelaunch of
Carl Gross and younger line CG-Club ofGents (pictured), parent
company Creation Grosshas been focusing on making the brands as
separateand defined as single entities, this season more than ever.
With a clear brand orientation, brandpositioning and values have
been redefined for bothcollections, highlighted in new styling,
design andmarketing. Carl Gross offers classics with a twist
discreet and up-to-date but still remaining fashion-conscious,
while G-Club of Gents places a strong focus on the younger man,
full of colourand contrast.
SkopesFor s/s 13, Skopes offers an extended collectionof
forward-order suits, sports jackets, trousers andouterwear, as well
as its wide range of stockservice continuity lines. Following the
success of the brands Castile and Toledo linen mix-and-match
jackets and trouser styles, Skopeshas introduced a variety of new
colour options aswell as natural herringbone and navy/coral
chalkstripe designs, both with built-in pocket squaresand contrast
buttons. The Albany range,meanwhile, features stretch-waist,
peached cotton chinos and shorts in French navy, stone,khaki, denim
blue and coral, designed to beteamed with the collections
lightweight summercheck sports jackets or the cotton/nylon
four-pocket gilet.
>
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mwb July12 Brand news 44
Update
PeregrineThe new season sees 200-year-old heritage
brandPeregrine launch its first capsule collection of woven cotton
and Merino wool garments for themenswear market. The British label
will offer arange of classics inspired by the 70s Englishgentleman
with a series of slim-fit silhouettes in abright colour palette.
Woven cotton, lightweightwaxed cagoule and Breton-stripe jumpers
come inmuted tones, highlighted by flashes of orange andyellow.
Continuing with its production in the UK,the brand is keen to keep
its heritage as a centraltheme running throughout, mixing
traditionalBritish styling with innovative design.
MageeIn addition to Magees signature classic suit, jacketand
trouser collection, the new season sees thelaunch of the brands
first foray into the casualwearmarket. The range of unstructured
jackets andlightweight coats has been designed to offer
morevariations and combinations of looks than everbefore. Quilted
body warmers, washed casual shirtsand trend-fit chinos and shorts
complete thecollection, while added gravitas comes in the formof
mother-of-pearl buttons, pure oxford cottonlining, printed floral
lining and an exclusivesummer stripe sleeve lining in viscose.
BarrutiFollowing the success of its newly revised a/w
12collection, Barruti continues in the same vein withits s/s 13
range. Featuring two new product lines,the brand combines formal
design with sportselements. Modern Classic presents a more
naturaland rounded suit model, with the familiar two-buttonside
slit model welcoming new billet pockets andtrouser turn-ups with
side AMF seams. Smart Casual,meanwhile, focuses on the slim
silhouette with 38cm bottom-hem chinos and slim-fit jackets. Top
stitching with heavier threads gives the chino amore
sports-inspired look, while detail comes in theform of contrasting
buttons and buttonholes.
Digel >>Digel