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Mudroom Unit - · PDF file Page 13 of 25 Step 7 – Fit the middle divider Fit the middle divider piece of ¾ inch plywood measuring 16 ¼ by 14 ¾

Feb 28, 2018

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Page 1: Mudroom Unit -   · PDF file  Page 13 of 25 Step 7 – Fit the middle divider Fit the middle divider piece of ¾ inch plywood measuring 16 ¼ by 14 ¾

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Mudroom Unit

Page 2: Mudroom Unit -   · PDF file  Page 13 of 25 Step 7 – Fit the middle divider Fit the middle divider piece of ¾ inch plywood measuring 16 ¼ by 14 ¾

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Introduction

This plan makes a unit which is 66 ¾ inches tall, 39 ½ inches wide and 18 ½ inches deep. It was custom

made for some friends to fit the space available they had.

On the unit I built I used solid planks for the sides rather than plywood. For ease of build though I have

done these plans using plywood.

For the 1 by 4 planks I used the more expensive Select pine boards except for the molding spacers which

were No2 whitewood grade.

I have tried to ensure all steps are covered in these plans but if you find any errors in the plans or have a

question then please email me at [email protected] to let me know.

All my builds are made with pocket hole joinery. You will need a pocket hole jig tool such as a Kreg

Pocket Hole Jig in order to build them.

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Shopping List

Size Length Quantity Board Number

1 by 2 8 feet 1 14

1 by 3 8 feet 4 1 to 4

1 by 4 6 feet 2 12 and 13

1 by 4 select pine 8 feet 7 5 to 11

0.75 inch plywood

0.25 inch plywood

3.5 inch by 0.25 inch trim

1.5 inch by 0.25 inch trim

You will also need:

1.25 inch pocket screws

1.25 inch wood screws

¾ inch finishing nails

1 ¼ inch finishing nails

Wood glue

Two coat hooks

Estimated Material Cost:

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Cut list

Please read all instructions before cutting wood as shown below. I suggest some pieces are cut as you

go to ensure a tight fit.

To minimize the number of boards to use plan your cuts I have given details of which board I cut the

piece from. If you find a more economical solution then please let me know.

Size Length (inches)

Quantity

Used For Board Number

1 by 3 18 8 Seat base verticals 1 and 2

1 by 3 10.5 4 Seat base sides Two from board 1 and Two from board 2

1 by 3 38 4 Seat base front and back 3 and 4

1 by 3 13 2 Seat base front and back mid supports

One from board 3 and one from board 4

1 by 4 17 4 Base molding supports 12

1 by 4 12.5 4 Top molding supports 13

1 by 4 Select 17.5 2 Seat One from board 6 and one from board 5

1 by 4 Select 32 4 Seat Two from board 5 and two from board 6

1 by 4 Select 37 2 Back T Frame 7

1 by 4 Select 44 2 Back T Frame 8

1 by 4 Select 27.5 1 Back T Frame 9

1 by 4 Select 30 1 Back T Frame 11

1 by 4 Select 39.5 2 Bottom molding One from board 10 and one from board 11

1 by 4 Select 18.5 2 Bottom molding One from board 7 and one from board 9

1 by 4 Select 38.5 2 Top molding One from board 9 and one from board 10

1 by 4 Select 14 2 Top molding One from board 5 and one from board 6

0.75 inch plywood 18 by 15.5 2 Side inserts

0.75 inch plywood 35 by 18 1 Seat back From 4 ft by 8 ft board

0.75 inch plywood 35 by 14.75 1 Seat base From 4 ft by 8 ft board

0.75 inch plywood 16.25 by 14.75 1 Seat Middle divider From 4 ft by 8 ft board

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Size Length (inches)

Quantity

Used For Board Number

0.75 inch plywood 44 by 37 1 Back From 4 ft by 8 ft board

0.75 inch plywood 44 by 11 2 Sides From 4 ft by 8 ft board

0.75 inch plywood 35.5 by 11 1 Top From 4 ft by 8 ft board

0.25 inch plywood 37 by 12.5 1 Top insert

See diagram below for how all but two of the ¾ inch plywood pieces can be cut from one 8ft by 4 ft

board. Remember you will need to take into account the blade thickness.

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Making the Base Part

Step 1 – Make the two Side frames

Make the two side frames using the 18 and 10 ½ inch lengths of 1 by 3.

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Step 2 – Make the front and back frames

Make the front and back frames using the 1 by 3 pieces shown.

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Step 3 – Join the sides together

Join the four sides together as shown. You will need to put pocket holes on the inside of the side pieces

facing outwards. They will be used for fixing the front and back frames to the sides.

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Step 4 – Add side inserts and back insert

Add the ¾ inch plywood pieces to the insides of the sides and the back. The two side inserts are 18 by

15 ½ inches. The back piece is 35 inches by 18 inches.

Fix with glue and 1 ¼ inch finishing nails or 1 ¼ inch wood screws.

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Step 5 – Add the base

Add the base which is the ¾ inch plywood measuring 35 by 14 ¾ inches. Leave at least a 1 inch gap

between the bottom of the base and the bottom edge of the cabinet. You will see why when we come

to fit the molding trim.

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Step 6 – Add the base molding

Drill holes through that bottom 1 inch of the sides left showing below the bottom edge of the shelf.

Clamp the molding in place and fit the molding by screwing through frame into the molding.

I tend to cut the front piece first and fit that and then cut the sides to measure and then cut the back

rather than cut all pieces and expect them to be spot on.

I also add some scrap blocks on the inside corners. I put pocket holes in one end of the scrap piece and

screw that to the long trim piece so it is also tight with the short trim piece. I then screw through that

into the base and then through the scrap piece back into the short trim piece. I find this helps keep the

joint tight.

An actual picture of it is shown below. You can see I also put some spacers using some scrap 1 by 4 I had

between the two long trim pieces to stop them from moving if get kicked etc.

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Step 7 – Fit the middle divider

Fit the middle divider piece of ¾ inch plywood measuring 16 ¼ by 14 ¾. This gives the seat some

support in the middle. Drill pocket holes in each edge of the piece so it can be screwed to the bottom,

front, back and top. You need only do them on one side of the piece.

Step 8 – Make the top

Make the top from the 1 by 4 pieces shown

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Step 9 – Fitting the Top

Drill pocket holes around the top of the base on the inside with the holes being drilled upwards. Place

the top good side down and place the upturned base on it. Make sure there is an equal gap on the left

and right hand sides. The back should be flush with the base leaving a ½ inch overhang on the front.

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Step 10 – Add internal trim

I added 1 ½ inch trim ¼ inch thick to the inside of the base to hide the screws used to fix the side and

back panels. I fixed this with ¾ inch nails and glue.

If you add this then cut each piece to fit your build.

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Making the Top Piece

Step 11 – Make the back frame

Make the back frame from the 1 by 4 pieces shown. Put the pocket holes on the back side.

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Step 12 – Add back panel

Fit the ¾ inch plywood back panel to the frame (so it is attached to the side with the pocket holes) and

fix with 1 ¼ inch wood screws and glue. Make sure you don’t put the screws where you want the hooks

to go on the reverse side!!

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Step 13 – Add the sides and top

Add the sides which are the ¾ inch ply pieces measuring 44 inches by 11 inches and the top measuring

35 ½ by 11 inches.

Drill pocket holes on the outside pieces as they will be hidden by the trim. Put the pocket holes on the

top side of the top piece so they are hidden.

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Step 14 – Add the top molding

Add the top molding. I drilled through the very top of the sides (which would then hide with some trim)

to screw the molding to the sides and back with 1 ¼ inch wood screws. I then added corner blocks as

with the base to pull the joints tight and stop them moving. For the front edge drill pocket holes in the

plywood and screw to the front trim using 1 ¼ inch pocket hole screws.

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Step 15 – Add bracing for molding

I added some scrap 1 by 4s as shown to 1) brace the top and back sides of the molding and 2) to have

something to fix a sheet of ¼ inch plywood to just to finish off the top.

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Step 16 – Add ¼ inch ply to top

Add a piece of 37 by 12 ½ inch ¼ inch thick plywood just to finish the top.

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Step 17 – fix the top to the base

Drill holes in the bottom edge of the sides of the top. You will then fix the top to the base using 1 1/4

Inch pocket hole screws. I used 3 on each side and about 8 on the back to ensure fixed well. I also used

glue. The holes on the side will be hidden by trim.

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Step 18 – Add the side trim

Add the side trim. I used 3.5 inch by 0.25 inch trim which is wide enough so you don’t have to fill and

sand the pocket holes. Fix with ¾ inch finishing nails and glue.

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Step 19 – Add the front trim

Add the two 42.5 inch by 1.5 inch pieces of trim to the front to hide the edge of the plywood.

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Step 18 – Add the internal trim

To cover the screws fixing the top molding to the sides and back add 1 1.2 inch trim ¼ inch thick to the

inside of the cabinet.

Step 19 – Finish

Finish in your choice of stain or paint.

Step 20 – Add Coat hooks

Add coat hooks of your choice