A culinary expedition to the North African country brings a deeper appreciation for amazing tagine, salt-preserved lemons, flaky honey desserts and other dishes that, while exotic, have an easy appeal for Americans looking for something different. by Joanna Pruess oroccan M ouvenirs S PHOTO: MARK FERRI; FOOD STYLED: LESLIE ORLANDINI; PROPS STYLED: FRAN MATALON-DEGNI 88 ❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE ❘ specialtyfood.com Pastilla is a Berber specialty of Fès made with shredded chicken or squab baked in a brik pastry.
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A culinary expedition to the North African country brings a deeper appreciation for amazing tagine, salt-preserved lemons, flaky honey desserts and other dishes that, while exotic, have an
easy appeal for Americans looking for something different.
by Joanna Pruess
oroccanMouvenirsS
PHO
TO:
MA
RK F
ERRI
; FO
OD
STY
LED
: LE
SLIE
ORL
AN
DIN
I; PR
OPS
STY
LED
: FR
AN
MA
TALO
N-D
EGN
I
88 ❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE ❘ specialtyfood.com
Pastilla is a Berber specialty of Fès made with shredded chicken or
A trip to Morocco last April included a stop in Meknès,
one of the four imperial cities; a motorbike ride across
Djemaa el-Fna, Marrakech’s bustling main square, to
cook a tangia (stew) in the embers of a hammam; and a
camel ride into the Sahara where I ate and slept under
the stars in a Berber camp. Along with countless memories, this adven-
ture left me craving Moroccan food.
PHO
TO:
JOA
NN
A P
RUES
S
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013 89
FOODS IN FOCUS
Crisscrossing the coun-
try for ten days allowed me to
sample regional dishes in out-
door stalls, homes and modest
and lofty restaurants from Fès
to Merzouga, Ouarzazate to
Marrakech, as well as a grill-
stop cafe along a winding
road through the High Atlas
Mountains. Admittedly, at
around 11,000 feet, after
numerous hairpin turns
in cold rain, it took sev-
eral cups of steaming
mint tea and bites of
f latbread to reignite my
enthusiasm for the juicy
charcoal-scented lamb
chops. Undeniably, this
eclectic cuisine—with
its unique African,
Andalusian, Arab,
Berber, Muslim and
Saharan inf luenc-
es—was remarkable.
A Colorful
Cornucopia
The film Casa-
b l a n c a — l i k e l y
Westerners’ most
familiar view of
this nation—was
filmed in black
and white, so
viewers couldn’t
appreciate the
wide spectrum
of hues that
permeate Moroccan life. Open-air souks (markets), both free-
standing and within medinas (ancient walled shopping centers),
are piled with fresh ingredients in tones from deepest purple egg-
plants to palest celadon herbs. Tubs of creamy yellow, green, red
and black olives stand alongside baskets of dried fruits, legumes and
nuts. Stalls for fresh meat, live poultry and fish vendors are located
in a separate area.
Morocco’s largest medina, Fès el-Bali, dating from the 9th
century, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The maze of narrow
streets is said to house 13,380 historic buildings and more than
10,500 retail businesses. It is accessible only by foot or mule.
Along with food vendors, medersas (religious schools), ancient
mosques and tanneries, the jumbled shops are crammed with shiny
bright bobbins of “silk” from agave cactus that would make Joseph’s
Technicolor dream coat a reality, copper pots, fanciful Bedouin
garments, art objects and naturally dyed Berber rugs and weavings.
Stores range from barely two yards wide to three-story mansions
of cedar.
To navigate the labyrinth, I hired an official guide, Tariq
Cheb, who discussed the history and culture of medina life with
me. Our four hours together included a lunch of Moroccan salad
(comprising several small cold salads including roasted peppers,
sauteed zucchini with tomatoes, lentils, carrots and olives in a
vinaigrette) and succulent chicken tagine over tender onions,
made with salt-preserved lemons (an important ingredient in many
dishes) and topped with prunes, toasted almonds and sesame
seeds. Following Tariq’s lead, I began eating as most Moroccans
do, with the thumb and two fingers of my right hand, using pieces
of f latbread to scoop up bites of food.
Generous Hospitality
Moroccans have a reputation for friendliness and hospitality. I was
thrilled when Tariq and his wife, Soumiya, formerly the chef of a
local restaurant, invited me to dinner, because the best Moroccan
food is said to be served in homes. As a chance to sample some
authentic dishes, this meal did not disappoint.
Along with harira, a fragrant tomato, lentil and chickpea soup
redolent of fresh herbs and ginger (and a Ramadan staple), Soumiya
prepared pastilla (or b’stilla), a labor-intensive Berber specialty of
“Over the past 20 years, Americans have been exposed to Mediterranean cuisines and appreciate
the taste, variety and use of healthy ingredients.” —Jean AbiNader, Moroccan American Trade & Investment Center
PHO
TOS: JO
AN
NA
PRUES
S
90 ❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE ❘ specialtyfood.com
Joanna Pruess’ trip to Morocco spanned visits to Meknès and Marrakech, a camel ride across the Sahara, shopping for spices and fabrics at souks, and an introduction to the flavors of Morocco in restaurants and home kitchens. View more photos at specialtyfood.com/onlinehighlights.
pin ch saffron threads crumbled and dissolved in a little warm water
½ cup pitted green picholine or Greek olives
1 large or 2 small preserved lemons2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, minced2 tablespoons minced
flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, or to taste
cooked couscous, for serving2 tablespoons slivered almonds,
toasted
One of the classic combinations of Moroccan cooking is green olives and preserved lem-ons. In this subtly spiced tagine, the juicy chicken thighs are drizzled with toasted slivered almonds before serving. Wolfert suggests that canned green olives closely approximate the texture of those found in Morocco. Serve the chicken over couscous.
1. In a large bowl, add chicken thighs and season generously with salt and pepper. Pour in ¼ cup olive oil. In a small bowl, mix the spices and ginger, and sprinkle on the chicken, turning to coat evenly. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.
2. Scrape the marinade from the chicken and blot the pieces with paper towels. Reserve the marinade. In a large Dutch oven or skillet over high, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil until hot but not smoking. Lay the thighs in the pan skin-side down and brown for 4 to 5 minutes. Turn and brown the second side for 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the chicken to a bowl, and season with salt and plenty of pepper.
3. Reduce the heat to medium, add the onion to the pan and cook until just starting to brown, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Add the stock, reserved marinade, saffron and olives.
4. Scoop out flesh of the preserved lemons and discard. Cut the peel into thin slices and add to the pan. Add chicken. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce the heat, cover tightly and simmer until the chicken is cooked through, about 35 minutes. Uncover, skim off the surface fat, stir in cilantro, parsley and lemon juice and adjust to taste. Serve over couscous with toasted almonds sprinkled on top.
NUTRITIONAL DATA (per serving): Calories: 580; Cholesterol: 125 mg; Sodium: 200 mg; Fat: 47 g; Dietary Fiber <1 g
Chicken Tagine with Green Olives and Preserved Lemon
Yield: 6 large chicken thighs with sauce (8 to 9 ounces)
Cooking time: 50 minutes, plus marinating time
Shelf life: 3 days
Canned green olives closely approximate the texture of
those found in Morocco.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013 95
3 pounds bone-in lamb shoulder stew meat, fat trimmed and cut into 1½-inch cubes
1 small onion, peeled and grated (about ¹⁄3 cup)
1 teaspoon ground ginger, plus additional for seasoning
½ to 1 teaspoon ras el hanout, depending on strength of mixture
1 stick cinnamon6 tablespoons unsalted butterco arse salt and freshly
ground black pepperge nerous pinch dissolved saffron
threads in 4 cups warm water
2½ pounds peeled Spanish onions, quartered and sliced lengthwise
1½ pounds peeled and seeded butternut squash or pumpkin, cut into large cubes
1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch lengths
7 ounces pitted prunes
3 to 4 tablespoons floral honey, such as orange blossom, acacia or lavender
1 cup canned chickpeas, rinsed2 tablespoons toasted sesame
seeds, for garnish
This sweet and spicy recipe, drawn from two different lamb tagines by Paula Wolfert, recalls a dish served at Al Fassia in Marrakech, a celebrated restaurant uniquely run solely by women. It is easily made ahead and reheated. Ras el hanout, or “head of the shop,” refers to the best blend of spices a shopkeeper makes. You can omit the final addition of butter and broiling the squash, if desired. Reheat in a moderate oven.
1. In a large, heavy saucepan, combine the lamb with the grated onion, ginger, ras el hanout, cinnamon stick, 3 tablespoons of butter, 1 teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper and the water with the saffron. Bring to a boil over high heat, cover, turn the heat to low and simmer for 45 minutes. Add the onions and continue cooking for 45 minutes.
2. Leaving the broth and onions in the pan, remove the lamb to a 10-inch shallow ovenproof dish (or bottom of a tagine) and let cool. Skim the fat from the broth, add the squash, carrots and prunes and cook for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, remove and discard the lamb bones. Season the meat with salt, pepper and a little ginger.
3. Heat the oven to 425 F. 4. Add the honey and 2 tablespoons of butter to the broth and boil for 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the partially cooked squash and set aside.
Transfer the onions, carrots and prunes to the lamb dish, and add the chickpeas. Discard the cinnamon stick.5. Over high heat, boil the broth uncovered until reduced to 1½ cups, about 20 minutes. Adjust the salt, pepper and ras el hanout levels to balance the sweet
and spicy flavors. Add the squash to the lamb and pour the sauce over the pan. If desired, dot the dish with the remaining butter.6. Bake in the top third of the oven until the squash is slightly glazed, about 20 minutes. Drizzle sesame seeds on top and serve.
NUTRITIONAL DATA (per 10-ounce portion): Calories: 370; Cholesterol: 100 mg; Sodium: 115 mg; Fat: 15 g; Dietary Fiber: 5 g
Lamb Tagine with Prunes, Butternut Squash and Chickpeas
1. In a large Dutch oven or saucepan over medium, heat the oil. Add the grated onion and garlic and saute until softened but not brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, paprika, cumin, ginger and saffron and bring to a gentle boil.
2. Add 1 cup of water along with the carrots and cook until half-done, about 10 minutes. Add the parsnips, rutabagas, turnips and potatoes and 2 more cups of water.
3. Lay a piece of parchment paper on top of the vegetables, cover the pan and gently boil for 10 minutes. Add the onions and zucchini, re-cover and continue to cook just until the vegetables are tender when pierced with the tip of a knife. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Meanwhile, prepare the chermoula: In a food processor, combine the cilantro, parsley, garlic, paprika, ginger, cumin, turmeric, coriander and cayenne and pulse until roughly chopped. Add the olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pulse into a chunky-smooth sauce. Adjust to taste. Stir into the tagine and simmer briefly before serving.
NUTRITIONAL DATA (per 10-ounce portion): Calories: 260; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 370 mg; Fat: 15 g; Dietary Fiber: 7 g.
FIND INGREDIENTcost worksheets at specialtyfood.com/
onlinehighlights.
Seven Vegetable Tagine with Chermoula
Yield: 6 (10-ounce) portions Preparation time: 1 to 1½ hours
(depending on the size of the vegetables) Shelf life: at least 4 days
Vegetarian dishes can sometimes suffer from bland flavors. Not so this vibrant melange where chermoula, a piquant flavorful sauce used throughout North Africa, packs a deli-cious punch. This recipe was inspired by a tagine served at Zitoune, Alain Bennouna’s Moroccan restaurant in Mamaroneck, N.Y.
Joanna Pruess is a regular contributor to Specialty Food Magazine.