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CIP

.—2004.3

ISBN 7-5085-0370-8

I. ... II.① ... ② ... III. — —

— IV.TU241.5

CIP 2003 101635

720×965 1/1660

9.5

2004 3 1

2004 3 1

ISBN 7-5085-0370-8/TU·05

85.00

31 100088

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C on t e n t s

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Introduction: Chinese Vernacular Dwelling /1

Huizhou Dwelling in Green Hills and Blue Waters – A Talk on Huizhou Dwelling in the South of Anhui Province /15

Ganlan Wood House and Storm-Tossed Bridge – A Visit to Northern Guangxi Mountain Villages /29

The City along Jade Water and Full of Historical Charm

– A Tour of Ancient Lijiang Streets /43

Harmonious Combination of Chinese and Western Elements

– Catching the Architectural Novelty in the Homeland of the Overseas Chinese /55

Small Bridges, Flowing Streams and Cottages – An Introduction to Shaoxing, an Area of Rivers and Lakes /69

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Imposing Dwellings and Spacious Courtyard – A Visit of the Residential Quadrangle /83

Natural Rhythm and Intelligent Conversion – Inspections on Zhang Dwelling in Central Yunnan /95

Comfortable and Harmonious Dwelling Prizing the Culture and Martial Art – A View of Minxi Dwelling /109

Magnicent and Beautiful Dwellings – A Description of Tibetan Watchtower /125

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Introduction: Chinese

Vernacular DwellingIn the year 2000, Xidi and Hongcun, the ancient

villages in Anhui Province of China were formallyapproved on the 24 th session of UNESCO’s WorldHeritage Committee to be inscribed into UNESCO’sWorld Heritage List. In early spring of that year, the Japanese Expert Dr. Naomi Okawa, assigned by

UNESCO’s World Heritage Committee, highly valuedthe villages after his field investigation by saying that“it’s really an unrivalled village scene such asHongcun”. “The village Xidi still remains its beautifulancient streets and alleys, which is seldom in theworld”. In 1997, old town of Li Jiang in YunnanProvince and ancient city of Pingyao in Shanxi Provincewere inscribed into the World Heritage List; nowadays,the famous river town Zhouzhuang in Jiangsu Provinceis on application for the list. At the turn of the century,the Chinese traditional vernacular dwelling is unveilingitself to the world, becoming a big stage for China’saccess to the world and for the world to have a betterunderstanding of China.

China is a country with vast territory, variedtopography and diversied climate, together with itsdifferent kinds of nationalities and cultures, whichcreates a rich variety of se�lements and buildings of

A land of peach blossoms: Xidi.

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

traditional vernacular dwelling. The residential housescan generally be divided into three pa�erns: courtyard,storied and caved ( or clay dwelling built with claymaterials) dwellings.

I

Courtyard dwelling is the most popular vernaculardwelling among all the pa�erns and it is also the one

The screenwall of a quadrangle.

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3with most advanced material and structure technology,the richest component, most complicated arrangementsof traditional ethic code and diversified decorations.In a sense, it is the most advanced dwelling style in thefarming society and also the ideal mode to materializethe natural environment in the feudal society. Thequadrangles in Beijing are the typical one of thispattern. The fundamental character of the courtyarddwelling is: being enclosed, symmetrical in middle axisand clear distinction between primary and secondary,outside and inside. Such kind of dwelling is mainlyseen in North China, Central Plains, Shandong

Introduction: Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

A quadrangle in Beijing.

The Tu Zhang Dwelling in AilaoMountain region, Yunnan Province.

Peninsula, plains and coastal areas in South China. Italso can be found in some basins and plains of the

southwest of China and in the areas of Chengdu inSichuan Province, Kunming and Dali in YunnanProvince and plain areas of Taiwan Island, etc. Thecourtyard dwelling is popularly adopted in many areasincluding the areas where the Hans se�le in, ethnicminority areas in close exchange with Han culture (suchas the Bai and Nahsi nationalities) and some developedareas (such as Zhuang and Yi nationalities), or the ethnicminorities living with the Han nationality (such as

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

The color picture andcarved decoration of aquadrangle.

The main gate of aquadrangle.

Manchu and Hui nationalities).In marching into one of the internat ional

metropolises, laws have also been formulated in Beijingto protect its 25 lanes and quadrangles in the ancientareas, ranging from Prince Gong’s Residential tocommon houses, which still have kept the mostcompleted and almost whole forms of quadrangles of

the courtyard dwelling. For example, as to the gate,there are Naizi Fang Gate, Jinzhu Gate, Brilliant Gate,Ruyi Gate, Manzi Gate and so on, which make up thereal museum of the quadrangle. Businessmen in ShanxiProvince were in the leading position in buildingprivate residential in the period of the Ming and Qingdynasties. The Quadrangle Group of the Wang family

The quadrangle group of the Wangfamily in Shanxi Province.

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in Lingshi County, known as the First House of ShanxiProvince, is composed of over one hundred courtyards.Despite of variation in scale, composition, decorationand other aspects, all the quadrangles, which are mostpopular in the northern plain areas, have the commonfundamental characteristics, such as the famousConfucian Residence in Qufu (Shandong Province),Zheng Banqiao’s Former Residence in Weifang(Shandong Province) and the numerous old-style banking houses in the ancient city of Pingyao in ShanxiProvince, etc. The dwellings in the vast countryside arenot as complete as the typical quadrangle; somedwellings only have three or two houses around acourtyard, such as the Manchu’s sun-facing ruraldwelling in Liaoning and Jilin Provinces, Tu Wei Zi inShaanxi and Shanxi Provinces, all of which are of

The patio in Huizhou dwelling.

The Clay Building of Western Fujian Province.

Introduction: Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

simplied courtyard-dwelling categories remaining the basic structure of gate, wall,courtyard and central room and wing-room. There are many variation forms of sucha courtyard dwelling as follows: the residential dwelling called Yi Ke Yin in Kunming,Yunnan Province, which generated from the cave uncalcined clay dwelling; Huizhou’scourtyard residential dwelling (In Chinese traditional architecture, the courtyardenclosed by the houses and walls was called tianjing in Chinese) in Anhui Province,which came from the ganlan (In ancient times, this kind of architectural mode with

wood as main building materials was popular in southern China) wood dwellingcombined with courtyard ; and the Yongding’s Hakka residential dwelling in FujianProvince, which was mainly built for self-defense under the specic historic andgeographical circumstances; Da Cuo – a courtyard dwelling composed of red-brickwall, sloping roof and arc reproof wall, made by immigrants from Guangdong andFujian to Taibei area of Taiwan, and so on.

The earliest form of the courtyard dwelling emerged firstly in the period of Qinand Han dynasties, and the figure bricks in the Eastern Han Dynasty give us acomplete form of the then courtyard dwelling. The widespread of such a dwelling

culture was due to the technological supports of Qin’s bricks and Han’s tiles, theimprovement of feudal farming family pattern and the popularization of etiquettenorms. And in the long period of time of farming society, this vernacular dwellingpattern showed its extremely strong vitality.

II

Cave-style dwelling has explicitly regional characteristics in the natural ecology,remaining the most primitive architectural features among all vernacular dwellingpatterns. The drought area in theLoess plateau in the northwest Chinais the area where the kind of dwellingsmost centralized.

The most typical cave-styledwelling is the Cave Dwelling whichcan be largely found in the middleand west regions including Henan,Shanxi, Shaanxi and Gansu, includingthe “underground Cave Dwelling”in the west of Henan and plains of

The Cave Dwelling.

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7southern Shaanxi – a kind of Cave Dwelling wholly built under the ground. Caves are dug with earth stepsas entrance. This kind of dwelling is inhabited byseveral or a dozen of households and is still completelykept in Liquan County ofXi’an (Shaanxi Province);the “cliff-along” Cave

Dwelling – another kindof Cave Dwelling widelyadopted in mountainousr e g i o n s a n d u s u a l l yconverged transverselyand multiply along thec o n t o u r l i n e w i t hconnecting caves dug onnatural hillsides and a

courtyard can be builtwith adobe outside thecave; “plugging CaveDwelling” – a mixed formmostly appear in the middle of Shanxi with one or twostoried arched adobe or brick house outside the caveand form a courtyard with walls, which seems moreflexible in settlement combination and richer in innerspace. And, there is a kind of semi-underground-cave

dwelling remained in the settlements of Taiya andYamei nationalities in Taiwan Province. Its shape isquite natural: generally with a rectangular flat coveredwith cobblestones and caved in about 1.5m, wood-framework upper structure using bamboo as purlinand being covered by day lily as roof. The wholesettlement scattered loosely, which is believed to formin the long time of encountering typhoon, earthquakeand other frequent disasters and remains till now.

The Tibetan watchtower.

Introduction: Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

Despite of its limited space, there still has reserved theplace for sacrifices in this kind of dwelling.

The Cave Dwelling, clay dwelling, or even thevernacular dwelling made of uncalcined clay, rammedearth, sca�ered in the drought or desert areas, such asZhuangguo in the east of Qinghai Province, watchtowerof Tibetan nationality in the areas of Sichuan, Qinghai

and Tibet and even Gaotai vernacular dwelling in Kashiof the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, all belong tothe category of uncalcined clay dwelling.

III

The Ganlan wood building is the typical storieddwelling, which distributes mostly in the mountains ofminority nationalities in the southwest semi-tropicalareas. Such a style has pushed the space form and spacecombination of storied dwelling, the support, suspensionand stagger oor along the hills, and, the techniques ofmortise and tenon to a very high level. It alsodemonstrates rich material and spiritual civilizations incombination with the unique national and folk culturesof the minority nationalities.

The traditional typical wood Ganlan buildings areall set up by wood including wood framework, woodpurlin, plank wall, bark tile, with tenon and mortise atthe link point, without any iron nail or iron hook. Theplane of the house is rectangle, while the roof looks likedouble-slope shape, and the first two to three levelshave no walls. The households live closely along thehillside. In the Dai nationality autonomous counties inXishuangbanna in the southwest of Yunnan and DeHong in the west of Yunnan, there are bamboo Ganlan buildings with a kind of bamboo-wood-combinedstructure using large amount of mao bamboos.Compared with the wood one, the building material of

The Ganlan wood building.

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9 bamboo dwelling are linked mostly by coir rope andrattan; its roof is called Kongming’s Hat with swallow-tailed Qianmu – some kind like the Xieshan-style ( Roof of the Xieshan-style is composed of two big slopes at frontand back and two small slopes at both sides, with two flatsin the shape of isosceles triangle also being at both sides of the roof.) four-slope roof. The Jingpo nationality, Jinuo

nationality, Hani nationality and other minoritynationalities in this area mostly adopt the bamboodwelling. Their dwellings are alike in terms of theheight of overhead level, whether they being paired upwith the architecture materials (such as adobe, day lily,the tile top, etc.) and the worshiped totem except for

The drum tower at Ma’an Village,Sanjiang County, Guangxi.

The storm-tossed bridge of the Dong nationality.

Introduction: Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

10 slight differences. There are some other unique features of Yunnan’s bamboostockaded village, such as the Dais stockaded village, each of which has a well withpainstaking decorations around or even with well pavilion or guardian stone-carving beast. Another example is the stockaded village gate of Hani nationality, which isalways made of tree trunk and set in the entrance with fur on the cross wood andlater bird carving instead. After numerous textual researches, Kenzaburo Torikoshi,the Japanese expert figured out that the traditional torii is derived from Yunnan.In addition, according to the building origin, fundamental framework and spaceidea, the Diaojiao building seen in the Mount Emei area in the southwest of Sichuan,Chongqing area and Fenghuang mountainous and lake areas in the west of HunanProvince are all the specific models of storied dwelling.

Dwelling in trees and dwelling in caves are both the most original modalitiesof Chinese traditional vernacular dwelling, which was once concluded by the ancientas “dwelling in trees in the south and caves in the north”. The historical recordsand archaeological studies have fully proved that the ganlan wood building wasonce widely adopted in the areas south of Yangtze River, most of which are areasof mountains and hills with the humid, hot and rainy climate, the ecological resourceof dense woods, the production mode of paddy cultivations. In ancient times, theseregions were known as Yues as a whole. The dwelling culture of Ganlan is thecommon feature of Yues , and, the totem, courtyard, entrance and the subdivisionof structure and materials together with the unique customs of all minorities, werepassed on and formed such rich residential dwelling settlements in today’s southernareas especially the southwest.

It is worth mentioning that with the growing population, declining woodresources, the popularization of architectural materials like brick and tile and someother factors, the Han nationality in the south and the minorities in the plains haveincreasingly farewell the Ganlan wood buildings, and progressed to many variationsand new modalities, such as the water street dwelling in Zhejiang Province, thecourtyard-style dwelling in Anhui Proivince, the adobe building in the south ofFujian Province, Yi Ke Yin in Kunming and so on.

The Chinese traditional vernacular dwelling always maximizes to comply withnature, or remake nature with compensation. As the polymer of vernacular dwelling,the emergence and development of traditional settlements have fully taken advantage

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of natural ecological resources while have carefullypaid attention to saving the resources, the water scenetreatment, fully utilizing the local architecturalmaterials, and making use of the difference in thenatural temperature to prevent cold and heat, whichhas reflected the ecological view attaching importanceon partial ecological balance. The dwelling modalities

are rich but not miscellaneous, skillful but not factitious because the numerous villagers who created them areaccustomed to cultivation and conform to the rule ofnatural changes. The villagers always attach greatimportance on the harmony in contrast, the rhyme ingradual change, leading to a strong aesthetic sentimentof rural life with the characteristics as follows:

– Beauty in nature. The Chinese vernacular dwellingis always located at the places near mountains or waters;in the full sunshine or dark shadows; under bright sky

The vernacular dwellings of water street in Zhejiang Province.

The vernacular dwelling of Shaoxing, Zhejiang Province.

Introduction: Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

Huizhou vernacular dwelling.

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or in dense forest . Beauty in nature has another enlightening meaning, that is: theman-made beauty in the Chinese vernacular dwelling is a kind of “meaningmodality”.

The vernacular dwelling’s appearance, color, sense of reality, light and shadow,etc. closely relate to the function, material and structure of the civilian housing, forexample, the horse-head wall for fireproofing, door awning for keeping out rain,the ridge tile for stopping up crack. The components and the decorates of Chinesecivilian housing modality adhered to the practical need at the very beginning.Therefore they are unparalleled by those affected ones for their simple and crude beauty showing their specific original, natural, organic and simple character.

– Organic in random, disordered in appearance but implying rule in actuality.The most significant component of all kinds of civilian housing modalities isa rch i tec tura l mater ia l .Most rural houses adoptthe local materials such aswood on the mountain, soil

on the plain, rock on theshoal and grass on thefield, which makes eachhouse seem like growingon the land, and become anorganic whole with the natural environment. They may be built alongside themountain, suspend or support when it requires, which can be fully demonstrated by Ganlan wood building. As to the distribution of the housing settlement, it maydistribute along the river way if near the river, with the lie of mountain when

The chicken-leg wood dwelling. The dwelling located in theShade and faced to the sun

while with hills behind andwater in front.

The prosody of the horse-head wall.

The Wufeng Building in Western Fujian Province.

Introduction: Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

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The vernacular dwellings withthe same structure but differentin details.

beside a mountain, concentrate if on plains while scatter if not on plains, whichseems disordered, though, contains the rule of “follow the nature”.

– Harmonious but remaining differences. It is especially suitable for the modalityrequirements of the dwelling environment. The vernacular dwellings in a regionmostly have the similar material, structure and composition of space and flat, forming

the same color, sense of reality, appearance and evenarchitectural “symbol”, which indicates the tendency

towards coherence of the civilian housing. But such kindof coherence tendency doesn’t mean being totally thesame; in fact, there are rich differences in the similarappearance, which can mainly be demonstrated by thecombining arrangements of image elements and the subtlechanges of the techniques. It displays the specificcharacters under the whole harmony of Chinese traditionalculture and art, with a strengthening recognizability andhigh appreciation value.

Compared to urban architecture like palace, templeor mansion of high official and scholar, the rural local-style dwellings, together with such folk customs as slangand ditties, national dresses, local conditions, folk storiesand even Da A Fu , cloth tigers, paper-cuts and “sugarcoatedhaws on a stick”, constitute the so-called popular culture,which emerges, multiplies and develops in the grass-root

rural or urban society with its strong vitality. It is created, enjoyed and passed on by the mass, and is close to their life.

It isn’t exaggerated to say that the Chinese local-style dwellings contain the in-dustriousness, wisdom and ideals of most Chinese people, reflecting the history ofChinese nationality. Among the Chinese traditional architectures, there are architec-tures as magnificent as imperial palaces, mansions, and the ones as elegant as gardens,academies and temples as well, the roots of which – from the mental software to thematerial hardware – are all unexceptionally based on the vernacular dwellings whichpossess traditional cultural charm.

by Shan Deqi

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Huizhou in Hills and Waters– Hongcun: A Village of Rivers and Lakes

Huizhou are seized of green hills and clear waters, where the landscape is like apicture. The Huizhou dwellings adapted to the characters of hills and waters thereand gave full play to them. The villages at Huizhou paid much a ention to integratedplanning, selecting location skillfully, geomantic omen and perfect structure. The buildings at Huizhou were usually located in the shade but faced to the sun, situatedat the foot of a hill for using the water sufficiently and suiting measures to localconditions – if on plains, concentrated on a place and if not on plains, distributeddispersedly. The model of these villages is Hongcun, a village of rivers and waters,one of the world cultural heritages.

Hongcun is located at the north of Yixian, northward against Leigang Hill andsouthward to the Yangjian River. This position is just required by geomantic omen:“to be located in the shade but to face to the sun” and “with hills behind and waterin front”. The most distinguishing feature of Hongcun is articial water channelsdistributed all over the village.

Hongcun began to be set up in the first year of the Shaoxing period of the SouthernSong Dynasty (1131), but the construction of channels on a large scale began in theearly Ming Dynasty. At that time, the villagers introduced the streamlets into thevillage, and dug channels with a length of over 300 meters, which flowed throughthe yards of every household at the village, andfinally converged on a pond like a crescent moon inthe front of the clan ancestral hall, built at the centerof the village. 150 years afterward, the villagersopened a large pond – South Lake with a superficiesof over 100 mu at the south of the village. In the 400years from then on, this perfect structure of channelshas been still reserved by Hongcun villagers andused by them in their ordinary life.

The entrance of the channel system is situated ata relatively high land, where the villagers built a damwith stone and installed a water gate to raise thewater level. The water gate is the entrance of channelsas well as the head of the channel system.

Hongcun with hills behind and water in front.

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Water gate – channels – the Moon Pond – the South Lake, together with the smallpond at every yard, compose an integrated water system and become the spirit ofthe village. The waters and hills, the streets, the lanes and the buildings, as well asvillagers’ life and culture form an integrated organism. The enlightenment fromthem is that the human beings can co-exist harmoniously with nature, utilize andprotect the nature; nature is not only the object of human being’s use andtransformation, but also an indiscerptible part of human being’s ordinary life.

Black and White Huizhou –A Land of Peach Blossoms: XidiThe strongest characteristics of building groups at Huizhou are: the points, lines

and surfaces composed of black tiles and white walls and the organic combinationof black, white and gray colors, which constitute a Chinese ink-and-wash paintingfoiled in green hills and blue waters, elegant and rened. Originally, white walls ofHuizhou dwellings were not for decoration but an ecological choice at that time, because whitewashed walls can protect against moisture and reect sunshine.A�erward, with the development of culture, especially inuenced by the Huangshan

Mountains Painting School, the beauty of white and black colors has been more andmore approbated by the people. Huizhou’s developed culture and a number ofintellectuals’ quiet and simple but elegant aesthetic sentiment may be another causeof the popularization of black tiles and white walls.

Xidi Village is called “a residence at the land of peach blossoms”, 8 kilometersto the east of Yi county town. The whole village keeps an integrated village structureand environment.

Xidi Village is a place where the Hu clan lives in compact communities. Streetsand lanes in the village are zigzag, deep and changeful, with a delightful and cordial

A bird’s-eye view of whole Xidi Village

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19constructive scale. They are ways for communicationas well as places for villagers’ intercourse.Everywhere can be found high or low “horse-head walls”, door-visor with refined carving,arches and arch-doorways ( A doorway withan arch form, whose upper part is half-round,built by bricks.), varied and vivid latticewindows and point-like windows ( Thewindows of this kind are very small, like point.). Streets and lanes link gardensand yards, the later link patios, with achangeable and flowing special rhythm.Besides ordinary dwellings there are talland upright ancestral halls, buildings foryoung ladies’ l iving and memorialarchways. Trees, streamlets and fieldssurround the village. Every building hassloping roofs towards different directions andcorresponding horse-head walls which form black surfaces and lines foiled by the huge whitewalls. Zigzag streets, different directions of buildingsand different height, storey and dimensions constitutea building style with organic changes; nevertheless, building materials and basic combinatorial mode arevery accordant, so a sight of dwelling groups with both

A partial survey of Xidi, in whichwe can see the organic structureof black and white points, linesand surfaces.

Huizhou Dwelling in Green Hills and Blue Waters

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

a highly unified style and a lot ofdiversification come into being.

Of course, building’s indoor colorsare much more r icher than i tsappearance. Usually, luxurious housesuse red girders and pillars, thewoodcarvings at important parts of

which are decorated by golden powder; but generally intellectuals’ familiespreferred doors, windows and furniturepainted by varnish, with their originalcolor of wood being le�.

In fact, Huizhou dwellings did notcopy existent colors in nature, butmade a clear contrast against bluehills and green waters. and they are

very harmonious with the colors ofsky, land, hills and waters.

Imaginary and Real Huizhou–Patio and Horse-Head Wall

The traditional Huizhou dwellingswere very mature in the Ming Dynasty.The most typical model was thecourtyard house (four channels joininside the courtyard) . Huizhoudwelling is a closed system, theexternal part is large and tall solidwalls to guard against the�s only withsome small windows for aeration. Anumber of Huizhou dwellings wereintensively built, only separated byreproof walls, which can curtain offre and avoid re’s spread. Because

An inner patio under rain of a dwelling, built in the MingDynasty at Chengkan Village, a typical model of “four

channels join inside the courtyard” tall and narrowpatio shows a deep and remote artistic conception.

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21these walls have horse-head-like upper corners, they are called horse-head wall. Theclosed appearance of Huizhou dwelling is the “real” aspect; but in the inside of thedwelling the constructors used patios to communicate with nature. Patios of variedkinds distributed among large stretches of buildings. In the patios, bonsais flourishand the living atmosphere pervades – it is the “imaginary” aspect. Just in the

A group of horse-head walls with rich variety.

Huizhou Dwelling in Green Hills and Blue Waters

the principal activities of life were on the second floor, so the proportion betweenthe first and the second floors was 1:2. But Huizhou’s houses built in the Qing Dynastyaccepted some features of northern quadrangles – residents’ activities were basicallyat the first floor, then the proportion between the storeys turned 2:1. Nevertheless,the features of nest-like house were still kept: opening the central hall completely

and linking it with the patio for better aeration. The proportion of patio is alsodifferent from the dimension of northern quadrangle’s patio: tall and narrow forprotection against the sunshine in summer, making the air upflowing. This kind ofpatio suits the hot climate in summer. The building structure also combined twowood structures: northern form of “raising beam” ( A form of wood structure in Chineseancient buildings, the beam is put on the pillar and other beam put on this beam.) andsouthern form of “mortise and quoin connecting” ( Another form of wood structure inChinese ancient buildings, beam and pillar are connected by mortise and quoin.), whichare respectively used in main hall and in bed-rooms of the same house. The gate of

combination of “imaginary” and “real”, Huizhoudwelling arrived a realm in which art and lifeare perfectly unified.

Huizhou dwellings are very different fromthe quadrangles in the north of China. It is aproduct through the combination of woodstoried building with railings and the quadranglein the north of China. The courtyard house withHuizhou style is fundamentally storied building,the quadrangles only with one floor in the northof China are very rare in Huizhou area. Even ifin a one-storey building, a wood floor was pavedand an airflow interlayer was installed forremoving humidity. In fact, Huizhou’s houses built in the Ming Dynasty were storied buildings,

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Huizhou dwelling also combines the featuresof southern stockaded village’s gate andnorthern house’s gate. The memorial archwaysand archway-like gates at Huizhou are typicalexamples.

Huizhou Fond of Books and TraditionalEthics –Colleges and Memorial Archways

From old times, culture and education at Huizhoudeveloped very well. The Confucian Moral ( Li) School of theSong and Ming dynasties had a far and deep influence uponHuizhou. Zhu Xi (1130-1200), a representative of theConfucian Moral School in the Southern Song Dynasty was born in Huizhou and gave lectures there. “Xin’an wasabundant in famous intellectuals”. “Even at a small villageonly with 10 households, nobody neglects cultivation andlearning”. Handing down books and courtesy to posterity isa tradition of Huizhou people. The reflection of this traditionin buildings at Huizhou resulted in many colleges, old-styleprivate schools, ancestral halls and memorial archways.

There are a lot of old-style private schools and colleges.The famous ones are the South Lake College on the bank ofthe South Lake of Hongcun, Ziyang College and ZhushanCollege, etc. There were 52 colleges and 462 old-style privateschools among the population of 560 thousand in Huizhouarea in the Ming Dynasty. A great number of Huizhou nativessecured official positions through imperial examinations.Many high-ranking officials and great intellectuals withreputation and power in the court and society were fromHuizhou.

Huizhou paid much a ention to the traditional ethics,which was also reected by the construction of a great numberof ancestral halls and memorial archways. An ancestral hallwas the center of a clan. There were many clan se lments in

The door of Huizhou dwelling.

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Huizhou so that Huizhou was very abundant in ancestralhalls with very high rank. For example, the Baolun Pavilion at the backyard of Luo clan ancestral hall inChengkan Village, was built in the Wanli period of theMing Dynasty (1573-1619) and composed of 11 rooms,29 meters wide and 10 meters deep, the architecturalcomponents full of decorations, among which thecolored drawing on the beam in the bed-hall is a unusualtreasure of folk colored drawing in China. Jing’ai Hallin the Hu clan ancestral temple at Xidi Village has twoyards and three halls, with a commodious and solemnspace, large and tall columns and beams, rened andsplendid carvings and decorations. Like other ancestralhalls, the position, dimension and supercies of thesetwo buildings are highest in the villages. Ancestral hallsin Huizhou’s villages were the center of buildings aswell as the spiritual center of villagers. Ancestorworship ceremony of a clan, important decision-making, rewards and punishment of all kinds were held

The South Lake College on the bank

of the South Lake at Hongcun.

The inner sight of the Jing’ai Hall inthe Hu clan ancestral temple at XidiVillage.

Huizhou Dwelling in Green Hills and Blue Waters

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there. Today, ancestral halls at Huizhou’s old villageshave become a particular sight.

Memorial archways maintained the feudal codeof ethics between clans and emperors. Huizhou’smemorial archways are the first both in quantity and

in quality in all China.Only at Shexian, there are94 memorial archways,among which are 34 me-morial archways in honorof women’s chastity. The

memorial archways atHuizhou played an agileand changeful role: beinga gate, indicating entranceor dividing up spaces. Thememorial archway at theentrance of Xidi Villagewith 3 interspaces, 4 col-umns and 5 beams, 13

Memorial archways at theentrance of Xidi Village.

A group of memorial archways at Tangyue Village.

Inner sight of a building with woodcarving at Lu Village.

meters high, is the highest-rank memorial archway,which was granted by Emperor Wanli of the MingDynasty to Hu Wenguang, the governor of Jiozhouprefecture. The largest group of memorial archwaysare located at Tangyue, where 7 memorial archwaysstand silently in the elds with ourishing rape owers.Their large scale, rened carvings and inscriptions withfar and deep meanings manifest some families’ historyof honor and vicissitudes of life.

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25Huizhou’s Techniques and Arts –”Carving ofThree Kinds” and Gardens

Huizhou’s “Three Kinds of Carving” ( wood, brick and stone carvings) arefamous for their consummate techniques in all China.Especially, these carvings can be combined with indoor andoutdoor components and decorations of the building, addingluster to the building and outstanding themselves. Building’sdoor-visors, beam-heads, lattice windows, partition boardsare refinedly made, exquisite beyond compare.

Huizhou’s woodcarving is not daubed with colored paint but Chinese wood oil. The most precious woodcarvings usedgingko and nanmu, which can show well the nobility and natural beauty of wood grain, furthermore refrain the negative inuenceof paint on woodcarving’s details.

The material used in stone carving is the rock, called“Yixian Blue Stone”. The stone carving was used in gates ofHuizhou dwell ings and memorialarchways. The most surprised thing is thelattice window made of one-piece stone,with designs of proper density and a formcombining hardiness with softness.

Huizhou’s brick carving is made of blue brick with hard and exquisite quality,abundant at Huizhou. This carving is widelyused in bars, gate-slipcover and lintels,

constituting an important part of the buildings with Huizhou style.

As an important representative ofHuizhou architecture, the garden withHuizhou style is characterized by bonsaiand pond with Huizhou style. They aredistributed at front part and back part ofcommon people’s houses, contactingclosely with their ordinary life. Tangan

Lattice windows made of stone carvingof a dwelling at Xidi Village.

Brick carving on the gate of Qingyi Hall at Tangyue Village.

Huizhou Dwelling in Green Hills and Blue Waters

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

Garden at Tangmo Village of Yixian County is a famousgarden with Huizhou style, called “Small West Lake”, built by Huizhou merchant Xu for his mother to getsome idea of the landscape of the West Lake inHangzhou. This garden was small and exquisite,drawing the architectural technique of Jiangsu andZhejiang’s gardens. The water-yard in Li Shuminghouse at Hongcun Village was situated back of themain room, out of the vestibule and extending to thesmall pond; the “arm-chair for beauties” (An arm-chair,made of wood, generally used at garden; seated on it ladies

Tangan Garden at Tangmo Village.

The water-yard in Wang Shunfeng’s house at Hongcun Village.

look more beautiful, so has this name.) and stone balusterson which put bonsai with Huizhou style, as well as la icewindows made of burnished bricks on the whitewashedwalls, are all full of local and rural smell.

Huizhou’s Merchants and ConfucianIntellectuals –Business and CultureSupplement Each Other

The highly developed architectural culture atHuizhou isn’t an occasional phenomenon; the most

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27 important inner cause ist h e r i s e o f H u i z h o umerchants with Confucianstyle. Being different fromthe merchants from ShanxiProvince, merchants of Hui-zhou had an extroverted

character because theycame from a region whereland is limited whereasthe population is great,which forced them toleave their homeland todo business. Well culturedand educated, merchantsof Huizhou were sharp-

sighted, faithful, good at business, and understoodthat “becoming rich fordeveloping Confucianismand being off icial forprotecting business”. So,they were very successful both in business and inofficialdom. They engaged

in salt , tea, pawn andpublication businesses.The for tune was con-centrated more and morein their hand. The stableeconomic foundation gavean impetus to culture’sd e v e l o p m e n t a n d i nturn, progressive culture

The Old Street at Tunxi has a commercial history of more than 100years, and is still an important commercial district of today’s Tunxi.

Huizhou Dwelling in Green Hills and Blue Waters

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promoted Huizhou merchants’ openingspirit in external intercourse and madeeconomy more prosperous.

A large amount of Huizhou dwellingswere bui l t depending on Huizhoumerchants’ sol id economic power.Inuenced by Huizhou merchants’ cultural

quality, these buildings are rened but notvulgar nor extravagant. Ancestral halls,memorial archways and colleges – those b u i l d i n g s w i t h m o s t H u i z h o ucharacteristics could sufficiently developonly relying on Huizhou merchants’multiple identities – merchant, intellectualand official. Xu Guo ( Xu Guo was fromShexian county. ) Memorial Archway was

built in commemoration of the ministerand grand secretary Xu Guo’s meritoriousservice in the Ming Dynasty, with theapproval of the emperor. Other typical buildings of this kind include Baolun Pavilion at Chengkan Village, South LakeCollege at Hongcun Village, and manyother Huizhou merchants’ houses. All ofthem were built not only on the base oftheir fortune, but a result of all-roundprosperity of economy, patriarchal clansystem, culture and arts.

by Yuan Mu

The patio in Chengzh i Hall at Hongcun Village,the wood carving painted by golden powder looks rened and magnicent.

Baolun Pavilion at Chengkan Village.

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Ganlan Wood House andStorm-Tossed Bridge

–A Visit to Northern Guangxi Mountain

Villages

A Tour to Wood House Village

Singing in Antiphonal Style at the Chengyang Bridge

Drum Tower and Lusheng Column

Ganlan Wood Houses

Fire Pit – the Holy Place in the Wood House

As China’s territory is vast, the architectural forms of various folk houses areextremely splendid and colorful. The ganlan wood houses are distributed mainly overthe vast land of northern part of Guangxi, eastern part of Guizhou Province, westernpart of Hunan, where they are densely situated or sca er in the mountains. The ganlan wood house along with the stockaded village gate, lusheng (a reed-pipe wind instrument)level ground and the storm-tossed bridge has become the home for the existence of

many minority nationalities like Miao , Dong , Zhuang , Yao nationalities, etc.Ganlan can also be referred as Malan. In the language of the Zhuang nationality Gan-lan means “home”, “house”. Ganlan’s evolution and development witnessed a historyof several thousand years. Ganlan wood houses preserved living traditions and nationalcoque e.

A Tour to Wood-House VillageThe shapes of the wood-house villages in the northern Gaungxi hilly areas were in

thousands of postures which originated from the distribution pa ern of folk houses,

2

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such as crossing the stream, beside the foothills, or around a valley. The wood-house village usually has a village gate (the Dong nationality’s wood-house villageoften has storm-tossed bridges besides village gate) while some wood-housevillages might have several gates.

The Longji thirteen villages of Multinational Autonomous County of one hundredkm away from Guilin city and 1000 meters above sea level, is known as symbol of

the world terraced elds, where the terraced elds are both imposing and winding.The Zhuang nationality had to face the adverse circumstances, for instance, thePing’an Village is a village situated at the highest sea level among the thirteen vi l-lages. The largest terraced field here does not exceed one mu (1 mu=0.0667hectares).

Upon the Ping’an Village, all families without exception are linked by a twistand precipitous mountain road. The wood buildings of the same color with sloperoofs are braced on the ground of the slopes. Some timber buildings are five to s ix

The Ganlan wood building of Ping’an Village, Longsheng County.

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31meters above the ground, among whichspread plots of terraced elds. A clusterof timber houses should be built in linewith the topography while the villageshould be adjacent to farming land so asto be convenient to intensive cultivations.Due to the historical changes, amongmany villages of the Dong AutonomousCounty of Sanjiang, there are cases thatseveral villages are o�en adjacent to eachother or even link with each other. Thethree villages of Linxi can be cited as agood example. Among the three villagesthe Huangchao Village is one occupyinga commanding height. Entering the vil-lage through slope ights of steps peopleshould pass through a village gate in a

Ganlan Wood House and Storm-Tossed Bridge

Huangle Village, Longsheng County.

The terraces in Longji.

tossed bridge one should pass the wandering footpath to the village gate. The heightmark is slightly higher than the river channel, which has given rise to a distinctive villagegate of the Yan Village – its entrance is at the bridge gallery of the drum tower. Ascendingfrom the footpath along the river channel, and one can enter into the village. The smallstorm-tossed bridge in front of the Yan Village is naturally connected the Liang Villagewhich also has an independent village gate and drum tower. The three villages aredispersed on the three points in different styles.

shape of pavilion. The plane of the villageis rectangular. The village gate, drumtower, water pool and small drum towerare built in proper sequence. They areneatly arranged.

The Yan Village is a timber-buildingvillage situated at a riverside and near a brook. To enter the village from the storm-

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The entrance to the Yan Village below the gallery.

The full view of Chengyang Bridge

The Zuolong Village of the Dulong Townshipis surrounded by waters in three directions whileanother direction faces a mountain slope. Theappearance of the village is just like a sleepingdragon. This is only a small village composed offorty-odd families. Because of the narrow footpathand the sca ered wood houses even the animals

should climb thesteps, but there

are still thedrum tower, family temples and village gatesamong clusters of wood houses.

Singing in Antiphonal Style att h e the Chengyang Bridge

On the festive occasions the fellow villagers

of Dong nationality bringing along the old andyoung were jubilant to ock to the Chengyang Bridge

from all directions. The young boys and girls of the DongNationality dressed in their holiday best, were se ing off

ZuoLong Village, just likea lying dragon.

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33

crackers while dancing the “ Cai Tang ” dance accompanied with reed-pipe wind in-strument. People were gathering at the head of the Chengyang Bridge. The pas-sageway was blockaded with the stable fences made of green bamboo by theyoungsters and girls. On the days of jubilation or during the festive activities allguests coming here to visit their relatives and friends were declined to enter thevillage. The youngsters and girls neither check your passes nor ask for money, butthey only want to sing in antiphonal style with you. Please listen to the song of“blocking the way”.

Never seen such a brilliant Sunlight,Never seen such colorful owers,The appearances of the Dong nationally,Have changed a lot,Because the guests coming from afar today…

Just like the storm-tossed bridge of the Dong nationality the songs of them arecharacteristic of cordiality, harmony, simplicity and grace. When the guests couldcorrect link the song they would be permitted to enter the village through the bridgeand well received. Such a kind of jubilant occasion could be easily found in theDong villages or Dong townships. But the Chengyang Bridge is one of the “state

The youth of Dong nationality singing in antiphonal style on Chengyang Bridge.

Ganlan Wood House and Storm-Tossed Bridge

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major units of historical relics under protection”. Therefore singing in antiphonalstyle on Chengyang Bridge has a special cultural avour.

The Chengyang Bridge was built by the people of the eight Dong villages suchas Chengyang Village, Ma’an Village, etc. headed by ve old Dong men, who mobilizedthe village to offer the timbers or contribute their labor while tilling the land. The

The Chengyang Bridge, completely constructed by wood.

best stonemasons and carpenters were invited here to construct. It took 12 years toaccomplish the construction of the Chengyang Bridge.

Situated at Linxi Township of Sanjiang County of the Northern Guangxi, the

Chengyang Bridge is across the Linxi River. It is 64 meters in length, 3 meters inwidth and more than 10 meters in height. It is a four-arched bridge with five piers.Each arch of main girders of bridge was built in two layers with seven China firsthat about half meter in diameter, 30 meters in length. Then planks would be paved,columns erected, beams put up. At last, the roof would be constructed and coveredwith tiles. Along both sides of bridge installed the banisters. In the Linxi townshipthere are about 15 storm-tossed bridges. Its local name is “floral bridge”. Peopleare overwhelmed with the fact that the whole bridge fully depend upon its through-

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The Storm-tossed bridge of Dong nationality withthe pavilion with xieshan -style roof.

The Batuan storm-tossed bridge of Dong nationality.

The facade of the drum tower in Yan Village.

Ganlan Wood House and Storm-Tossed Bridge

jointed frame and corbel, without any iron nails and screws.Every village of Dong nationality of the Northern Guangxi has its own bridge

which is different from others in the style. Some are composed of three pavilions;some four pavilions; some, five pavilions; some are covered with rectangle orhexagonal spires, two to five layers of eaves; some are with Xieshan-style roofs. Themore interesting is that the storm-tossed bridges at the Town

Ba Tuan have double decks. The upper deck is forpeople to walk on while the lower deck fordraught animals.

The s torm-tossed br idge is justentrance of a vi l lage, which is apassage linking the two banks of therivers and streams. It is the onlyway to enter the village as wellas the symbol of a village.

Drum Tower and Lusheng Column

The drum tower in every Dong Village(some Dong villages have two or more drumtowers) can make an appropriate comparisonwith the storm-tossed bridge. The drum towerstrikingly stands on the drum tower level

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ground. It is also the fine products of Dong architecturalart.

The drum tower can be divided into two parts: thelower part like pavilion while the upper part like apagoda. The lower part is supported by eight columns.The four outside columns are used for supporting thepavilion eaves while the inside columns of China rs areused for supporting the beams. The upper part is

constructed with multiple eaves and corbel bracketswhich can be distinguished into rectangle, hexagon oroctagonal eaves. Multiple eaves can be ve layers orseven layers, or even nine layers or eleven layers.

The steeple of the drum tower is often installedwith precious bottle gourd and mil lennium crane thatrepresents good luck. The ground inside of the drumtower is usually paved with stone and built with fire

The nine-layer xieshan -style roof of the Mapang drum tower.

The Totem Lusheng Column of Miao nationality.

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37 pit and installed with seats along the walls, which has a seating capacity of 100-200people. As a ma er of fact, the drum in the tower is only a hollow-out huge woodcovered with the ca le hides at both ends. The drum tower is a place where thevillagers discuss public business or work out regulations or rules for townshipadministration. Secondly drum beating can also sound the alarm for bandits orrobbers. The beating is the signal for gathering and joint actions.

The center of the Dong village is the drum tower while the center of the Miao

village is the Lusheng column, which is a vertical huge China r decorated with oxhorns, dragons, phoenixes and broadsword. Its top is a phoenix shape. The Lusheng column stands on the Lusheng level (ground surrounding the Lusheng column), thereare designs made of cobblestones on the ground. The Lusheng column is the totem ofMiao Nationality.

Ganlan Wood HousesGuangxi Zhuang Nationality

Autonomous Region is a woodedand hilly land with damp and hotweather as well as abundant rain-fall, while there are poisonoussnakes and beasts of prey in themountain areas. Therefore the ver-nacular dwellings are mainly theGanlan wood houses in the northernhilly areas of Guangxi.

The ganlan houses made of bamboo or wood frame had beeng r a d u a l l y p e r f e c t e d b y t h eancestors. People lived on thesecond floor while the first floorwithout walls was mainly used forstorage of miscellaneous things orserved as pigsties or sheepfolds.

The outer surface of the Liao Family wood building.

Ganlan Wood House and Storm-Tossed Bridge

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The ganlan wood houses are usually based upon a rectangular plane of “ threerooms with four trusses”. (The building of “three rooms with four trusses is China’straditional architecture having three rooms in façade while there are four lines of rafter onthe roof truss)

In line with different conditions such as family population, topography of build-ing foundation and its relationship with roads, the building planes in the shape of“L”, “ ”and “ ” were derived; moreover, the buildings are usually constructed on

the slopes of mountain, therefore, two-storeyed or three-storeyed rectangular unitsare more popular in order to economize the land. The rectangle plane o�en containsstaggered oor or skip-oor. The wood houses in the Dong Autonomous County ofSanjiang are mainly topped with four-sloped roofs but those of the Miao village inthe Miao Autonomous County of Rongshui are topped with two-sloped roofs. Themain materials of roofs are grey tiles, while the wood houses in wooded mountainsmay use the shingles. The protection walls with small windows are also constructedwith planks. The bay of a small wood house in the northern part of Guangxi rangesfrom three to ve meters, which mainly depends on the size of the China rs. The

The suspending pillars and protrudingbeams of the Ganlan wood building.

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The wood structure with no roof beams and the technologyof mortise and tenon of the wood building in Yan Village.

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41earthquakes.It is worthy of noting

that the ganlan woodhouses in the northernpart of Guangxi arecharacterized by twop e c u l i a r e l e m e n t s :

h a n g i n g p i l l a r a n doverhanging eaves. Inorder to increase theoorage of a wood houseon the limited land, thes t r e t c h i n g - o u ttechnology is used one v e r y f l o o r ; w h i c hThe re pit in a wood building in Ping’an Village.

Ganlan Wood House and Storm-Tossed Bridge

requires the brackets on the transverse beams to carry the load of the upper stretching-

out pillars, forming a through-jointed frame through the way of mortise and tenon.The ends of the pillars extend, forming the hanging pillars.

The head of the hanging pillar has always been polished and carved to form theshape of lotus or lanterns, which are similar to the festoon decoration on the door ofthe courtyard and house in Beijing. Popular use of cantilever beams under the eavesis mainly for the rainy and hot climate in south China. Therefore, the wood houseo�en has long plancier pieces which can be as long as 1.5 meters. The vertical propsunder the eaves are outriggers with purloins. The larger plancier pieces always havetwo or three layers of outrigger. Although the total wood house is not carved with

exquisite sculpture, its modeling is light and graceful through well arrangement ofthrough-jointed frame, hanging posts, balconies, cantilever beams together withstagger oor and overlap joints.

Fire Pit – the Holy Place in the Wood HouseEvery family of the northern part of Guangxi Zhuang Nationality Autonomous

Region has built a fire pit in the middle of the room on the second floor of the

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The City along Jade Waterand Full of Historical Charm

–A Tour of Ancient Lijiang Streets

Ancient City Shaped in Thousand -Year Vicissitudes

A City Surrounded by Spring Water

Trace the Vernacular Dwellings Through Three Terrace Houses with One

Screen Wall

Lijiang lies in the northwest of Yunnan Province. It is being known to more andmore people. There are the well kept ancient city and vernacular dwellings, the YulongSnow Mountain, the mysterious Dongba culture and the sincere Nahsi People. Thepeople there enjoy a natural and quiet life. There are many other scenic spots like theTiger-leaping Gorge, Lugu Lake, Jade-peak Temple, etc. Lijiang is really an a ractiveresort and a place with Oriental charm in Southwest China.

Ancient City Shaped in Thousand-Year Vicissitudes

The ancient city is the most attractive thing for tourists forgetting return duringtheir Lijiang Tour, while the ancient vernacular dwellings are the most attractiveones in the city.

The Da Yan Ancient Town, part of the Lijiang Ancient City is a small and beautifultown, which is something like Venice and Suzhou, while it has richer avor of rurallife than Venice and Suzhou. It has been integrated with scenic mountains and riversand mingled with the sca ered villages. The Lijiang Ancient City has witnessed thevestige and vicissitudes of the Nahsi nationality from generation to generation. Somany stories of the historical legends handed down in the streets and lanes, in theimposing dwellings and courtyards, as well as in shops and workshops of the ancient

3

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city. Therefore, the ancient city is a place for Nahsi people’s living and culturalconsumption. It is more valuable that the diligent and honest Nahsi people are stillliving in the vernacular dwellings spreading over all corners of the ancient city.Therefore, this is a “ living” ancient city that has registered historical changes whilefollowing the modern times. Because of the above-mentioned distinguished featuresand special values, the Li Jiang Ancient City has been inscribed in the World Heritage

List by the World Heritage Commi ee of the UNESCO in

1997.The development of cities and towns is

synchronous with the social and economicprogress of the local areas. The LijiangAncient City, of course, has no exception.During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the Nahsi

nationality were called “Moshayi” whoestablished tribal villages. Viewing from

historical outlook of tribal village’s development,

these tribal villages were the source for the developmentof the Lijiang Ancient City. The vernacular dwellings atthat time were the initial shape of the modern “Batten”

houses. The commodity exchange and rural fair would naturally appear in a definiteperiod of agricultural development. Thus, the market towns emerged as an embryonicform of modern cities and towns. The Dayandi of the Yu River Reaches can beregarded as the typical of the market town evolved from the ancient villages.

The Dayandi occupies the central position of the Lijiang scenic area and locatesat bag bottom of upper reaches of Jinsha River, being surrounded by big mountainsand Jinsha River as the natural city wall and city moat respectively. It is a place easyto be defended and control the whole area of River reaches. Kublai Khan the firstemperor of the Yuan Dynasty (1260-1294 at reign) led the Mongolian troops to crossthe Jinsha River. The military headquarters headed by Aliang Ahu, son of KublaiKhan was located at the Dayandi. Aliang Ahu started the construction of the ancienttown Dayan through excavation of Jade River and West River, which laid thefoundation for developing the town along the Jade River, West River and MiddleRiver. This was the predecessor of the Lijiang Ancient City. Up to the Ming Dynastyat the reign of the Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang (reign from 1368-1398) the local headman

“Seven Stars with the Moon”, thefolk costume of Nahsi Nationality.

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45Mu was granted the title of county magistrate of Lijiangarea. After headman Mu moved his government fromBaisha to Dayan Town, he went in for large-scaleconstruction of the ancient town that had become thehub of communication with the Sifang Street in thecenter. During the reign of Emperor Yongzheng, thelocal officials were replaced by the court officials whoexcavated the East River of the Jade River. Finally theLijiang Ancient City with the river system of threerivers (West River, Middle River and East River) andthe street and lane network was formed, the SifangStreet at the center.

A City Surrounded by Spring WaterThe water is the soul of the ancient city while its

beauty can not exist without the water.The Helong Pond is the water-head of the Yu Riverin the City. The spring water gushes out from roots of

The City along Jade Water and Full of Historical Charm

An overlook of the ancient city.

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47 the roads paved with greenish marble lead the tourists to roam in the city. Thegreenish marble roads are different from the common roads paved with slabstones,the polished faces of the marble have shown colorful motifs, which are composedof pebbles in different colors. The marble is a kind of natural stone, which is called

Streams are the arteriesof this beautiful town.

Various kinds of bridgesin Lijiang ancient town.

The City along Jade Water and Full of Historical Charm

days, more attention is paid to the southern silk route. Some argued that here wasthe trade passage and cultural corridor earlier than the Northwest silk route. Lijiangwas one of the important posts (where former couriers changed horses or rested)on the ancient tea-horse road. In fact, the vestiges left by the caravans are the culturalimprint, a mark of cultural communications and integration.

The street fairs of the ancient city had formed general appearance of the citycustom. The Sifang Street was the representation of the country fair of the ancientcity. In ancient times it was just a primitive country fair and later on it had become

an important place for tea-horse exchange on the ancient tea-horse route. Nowstreet pedlars gathered here while people are dazzled by antiques and articles fordaily use. The great landscape of the country fair are composed of opening tarpaulincanopies, big umbrella made of butter paper and the traditional pedlars. In the westpart of fair gathered all kinds of ancient or old handcrafts while at the east part offair, people are selling articles for daily use, such as pans, bowls, gourd ladle and basins and so on. The big pot cover can be used as straw hat while the copper gourdladles and spoons are as bright as mirrors. The square for country fair has fourstreets radiating in four directions, i.e. Guangyi Street, July 1 Street, May 1 Street

“5-color marble”. Allslates were extractedfrom the mountains of

Lijiang basin. If you havea careful observation youmay find the unevenfaces of the marbles arefull of black spots withdifferent shades, whichhave written down thevestiges of human stepsand horse-heels in several

hundred years. In recent

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in the east and Xinhua Street in the west; while each street has several lanes. Thus,an opening arrangement has been formed with the Sifang Street at center surrounded by shopping stores, hotels and restaurants. After careful observation you may findthe streets of the Nahsi City are markedly different from those traditional streetsarranged in the shape of Chinese character “ ”. Other street markets also havetheir own characteristics. They are the extension and complementary of the SifangCountry Fair.

Trace the Vernacular Dwellings Through “Three TerraceHouses with One Screen Wall”

The Lijiang’s vernacular dwellings are the cultural and living crystallization ofthe Nahsi people. These dwellings are characterized by simpleness, freshness andnatural beauty and are expression of the continuance of the local culture as well as

(up ) The wood bridge inDayan town.(down ) A part of Sifang Street.

Yulong Snow Mountain is the divine mountain in thehearts of the Nahsi people. The ancient town has aextremely close relationship with the mountain.

(up and down ) The old streetshave recorded a lot of lyrictimes.

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49

The Xianwen Lane.

The City along Jade Water and Full of Historical Charm

t h e c o m b i n a t i o n a n dconfl ic ts of plural is t iccultures. To appreciate thevernacular constructions ofLijiang is just like drinkinga cup of old l iquor ortasting a cup of cocktail

wine.Lijiang City with its

own cultural and historicalt rad i t ion has i t s ownhistory of architecturaldevelopment. The Lijiangvernacular dwellings have

The stone slabs on the road havebeen polished by times.

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developed from vernacular dwellingmodels like “house in caves”, “houseon the trees” and “ba en seam houseof log construction” to those of “threeterrace houses with one screen wall”and “quadrangle residential with 5small yards” and “horse-mountedhouse with lapped corner joints”.

Obviously, the vernacular dwellingsof the Nahsi nationality in Lijiang Areahave undergone the evolution from ba en seam houses to courtyard styleof the Han nationality.

The batten seam house is theprimitive mode of the folk house ofthe Nahsi nationality in the LijiangArea. This is a wood-structuredhouse, its walls are vertically andhorizontally built with barked timberswhile its roof is covered with planks.

The ancient city also welcomes modern people andhas many modern shops.

Street and Shops.

The West River besidetraditional buildings.

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51The building material can be obtained easily from thelocal environment while it is simple to master the art of ba en seam house construction.

The original spatial mode of the batten seam housewas only a yard which was gradually transformed intomore regular amalgamated dwelling under theinfluence of foreign culture. Such a dwelling consistedof principal rooms, wing house (scripture hall), dresscircle, bar straw house. The principal rooms are placesused for family gathering, meetings, cooking andoffering sacrifices to gods or ancestors. The wing housecan also be called Buddhist religious scripture hall. I tis usually a two-storied building. The second floor is bedrooms of Lama or room for worshiping Buddhistimages while the rooms on the first floor are preparedfor the bachelors or guests. The dress circle mainlyserves as the bedrooms of the young maids. The secondfloor of gateway serves as the room for storage ofstraws while at both sides of the gate on the first floorare the cattle shed.

The gate of Musuo people’s building usually facesthe east or north. The yard is always rather big wherethe wedding or funeral ceremonies could be held here.The structure of principal room is quite complicated.In the back of the room is a sandwich structure for foodstockpile and serving as the bedroom of the old people.The right side of the principal room is the living roomfor housewife; in one corner of principal room is thetop of the kitchen range and on the corner of which isplaced a shrine on which placed the god statue,sacrifices, and vase. Under the kitchen range is the firepit. The right side of the fire pit is prepared for thehosts while the left side is reserved for guests. Thereare two big columns in the room, one is called left

A part of the traditional batten-seam house of the Nahsi

The City along Jade Water and Full of Historical Charm

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

column or male column while the other is referredas right column or female column. The grown-upceremony of men will be held at the side of leftcolumn while that of women will be held at the sideof the right column. Obviously the form of the battenseam house are inseparable to living conditions andliving way of the agricultural society of the Nahsi

nationality, because people’s daily life, naturalenvironment and technologies will decide itsstructures and modes. Of course, the spatial structureof the building has close relationship with people’sreligious beliefs, marriage status as well as familystructure. Here, the buildings are given more culturalcolors and symbolic significance by the initialideology of the minorities.

The traditional vernacular dwelling of the Nahsi

people in Lijiang Area, however have absorbed moremerits of courtyard building of the Hans on the basesof maintaining their good traditions.

In 1921 Mr. Locher, an American scholar came toLijiang area and began to study the Dongba cultureof the Nahsi people. He made friends with the localpeople. The Lijiang people warmly received him because they did not exclude the alien culture.Locher’s research ndings have played an importantrole in helping the people both at home and abroadto understand Li Jiang be er.

The Nahsi ancesters adopted the open policy inculture. And for a long period of time, the Dayanancient town was an important communication poston the Sichuan and Tibetan trade corridor while itobjectively played the role of cultural corridor.Therefore the Nahsi people has a good tradition ofworshiping the culture while being well versed in

The traditional batten-seam houseof the Nahsi people.

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53learning to absorb other progressive cultures. If you make a careful observation ofNahsi vernacular dwellings you may nd the great inuences of the tradition of thecultural integration on the art of folk house’s construction. You can also nd thearchitectural culture, forms and styles of the Nahsi, Han, Bai and Tibet nationalities incomplete harmony.

There are many types of common Nahsi vernacular dwellings: Three TerraceHouses with One Screen Wall, Front and Back Courtyard, etc. Among them, the

most basic and common dwelling of the Naxi nationality in Lijiang is the ThreeTerrace Houses with One Screen Wall. The three terrace houses are characterized by higher principal room, lower wing rooms with one screen wall, which is distinctof what is primary and what is secondary. The long plancier at the top had definitecurve “face slope” so as to avoid heavy and rigid impression, while demonstratingits gentle and beautiful curves. The body of wall is appropriately tumbling in, whichstrengthened the impression of stability about the whole building. The surroundingwalls are lower to the top. The ornamental perforated wood windows are installedat above the sills. Most of eaves are stretched-out to protect the plank from being

wet by the rain; at the two ends of cross girders projecting from the gable is installedskirt board, which is called “ fire-sealing gable”. In order to make the house more beautiful, some buildings are installed with the banisters in shape of the coveredway. Finally, in order to reduce the dull atmosphere caused by the abrupt changeof Chinese overhang eaves fascia and the exposing gable post the art of verticalweather-boarding are ingeniously applied, which can either protect the cross girders,or increase the art beauty of the whole building. A harmonious appearance of a building full of changing beauty has taken its shape through reasonable arrangementof principal room and wing rooms, screen walls, wall body and festoon decoration.

The vernacular dwelling of “three terrace houses with one screen wall” have shownthe superb architectural skills of the Nahsi nationality.

The principal room of the Nahsi dwellings for the aged people usually faces thesouth and the wing rooms for younger generation on the east or west are slightlylower. The first floor is mainly for people’s living while the second floor serves aswarehouses. The courtyard is mainly paved with bricks or stones and beautifiedwith flowers and grasses.

The front of the Nahsi building is usually a ached with a gallery which is anintegral part of the Nahsi building in Lijiang area. Now some room’s functions for

The City along Jade Water and Full of Historical Charm

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

The batten-seam house at thefoot of Yulong Snow Mountain.

dinner or receiving guests are substituted by the gallery.The country fair has been high developed in the Dayanancient city since ancient time while the Nahsi people aregood merchants. Therefore the vernacular dwellingsoverlooking the street will be used as shop front by thehouse-owner.

As a ma er of fact, the real, simple and natural life

in the Nahsi vernacular dwellings has nurtured themoderate cultural mentality. Living in such a dwelling,you will feel the existence of the Nahsi culture.

by Wang Dong

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Harmonious Combinationof Chinese and WesternElements

– Catching the Architectural Noveltyin the Homeland of the OverseasChinese

Towering Watchtower – Witness of Local History

Row upon Row of Zigzag Arcade-houses

Ancestral Temples Remain the Same Charisma

There, in Wuyi Region of Guangdong Province, exist a lotof civilian residential dwellings with obvious alien culturalelements and the style and decoration so different from Chinesetraditional building style. When you look round, there aredwellings of Romanesque, Gothic, Byzantine styles, Islamic

style and traditional Chinese style.

A mixture of Western pillar corridor and Chinese roof.

The watchtower dwelling group in a village.

4

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

In China, Wuyi Region is a well-known area inhabited by returned overseas Chineseand their relatives. From 1911 to 1949, a large number of Wuyi people went abroad forlife. The statistics of 1999 indicated that there were 3.6 m Wuyi local people living abroad,sca ering in more than 100 countries and regions all over the world. These returnedoverseas Chinese, when returned, not only brought huge sum of fortune, but also West-ern new ideas and philosophy, including Western architectural culture and technology,which promoted the combination of Chinese traditional architectural style and alienculture and produced today’s regional features of the harmonious combination of Chineseand Western elements in the local civilian residential dwellings.

Wuyi is not an independent name but a popular name of ve areas of Xinhui, Taishan,Enping, Kaiping and Heshan in Guangdong Province. Administratively, the above veareas all are under the jurisdiction of Jiangmen Municipality of Guangdong Province,now called “four cities and one district”.

Towering Watchtower – Witness of Local HistoryIn this area, the buildings which most impress the people and best reect the

regional features are the sca ered watchtower-style residential dwellings in mountainsand villages. Watchtower, by denition, is a tower-looking building, the main purposeof the building was to defend the village and prevent the bandits from a ack androbbery. Once in emergence, all villagers could move into the tower for security. Onthe upper part of the tower, there was outlier corridor for the insiders to occupy acommanding position to re at those a ackers. Generally, those watchtowers arelocated in the rear or on both sides of the village, occupying the commanding position.At least there were 2 or 3 towers in each village, and at most 7 or 8 ones. A lot ofwatchtowers are still remaining in Wuyi region, with Kaiping owns most of theexisting ones. According to the incomplete statistics, there are more than 1 400 towersin Kaiping in the year of 2 000.

The architectural style of watchtower originated rather early. In early QingDynasty, there already appeared such towers in villages round Kaiping. Up to theearly 20 th century, with the inow of the large sum of overseas capital, the nancialconditions of many relatives of overseas Chinese were greatly improved, for example,in Taishan County only, the overseas remi ance reached as high as US$ 10 million before 1929, a�er 1929, it rocketed to US$30 million. At the same time, the publicorder in these overseas villages was from bad to worse. Those rich families were

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57regarded as the “nancial source” in theeyes of local bandits. The bandits wereon a rampage in the villages, robbingand blackmailing. The local people hadno way out but to organize to buildtowers to safeguard themselves. Today,the defensive function of the towersdisappeared, but the towers remain to be the witness of the past history,creating a unique historical atmosphere,producing kind of sense of alien beauty,making another contribution to theregional resident dwellings.

The towers in Wuyi generally own3 to 6 floors, a few of them 7 to 9 floors.Its plane basically takes the shape of

square. The tower is divided into 3parts: tower body, outlier floor and roof.The lower part is the body of the tower,which, for the purpose of defense, appears thick andstrong with small windows and a lot of bullet holes.Limited by a series of military functions such as de-fense, the shape of tower body is very simple anddistinctive, large piece of solid wall gives a strong senseof weight and closed system, but after all it was not the

real tower for war, it was the place for local people tolive in, hence it should also show to some degree thesense of beauty, their love of life, so that there appearedthe delicate window frame above the windows. Theupper part of the firm and strong body is the relativespacious part called outlier floor, where people couldlook out or launch counter-attack. Along the corridorthere were bullet holes on the wall and the floor. Judgedfrom the shape, the corners of some outlier floors ap-

The Duanshi Building in Taishan,graceful in shape and harmoniousin proportion.

Harmonious Combination of Chinese and Western Elements

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

58

pears tube-shaped, others octagon-shaped, like “swal-low net”, a lot more to be the pillar-shaped Europeanstyle. In addition to the military implication, the out-lier corridors, we can find, also give the architectural

implication in terms of aesthetics and ecology. Aes-thetically, these corridors and the closed wall matcheach other so well that they produce the contrast be-tween vacancy and reality. Ecologically, the open cor-ridors are of benefit to ventilating, to the improvementof people’s living environment in southern GuangdongProvince, where the climate usually is moist and dump.The most magnificent part of such building is thehousetop, which was mostly sitting on the square or

The Jingshoutian Building in Kaiping County.

The exquisite lines on the gatecase.

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59polygon bases, forming bea utiful skylines. Judged from the building materials and styles, the

watchtowers could be divided into three types: clay building, brick building and reinforcedconcrete building. Clay and brickwere building materials ofChinese traditional resident

d w e l l i n g s , w h i l e t h ereinforced concrete was thematerial born under theinuence of Western culture.These towers were mostly built in the 1920’s or 30’s ofthe last century. Thoseoverseas owners, whenabsorbing the different

building styles of differentcountries, built them with the then most advancedmaterials and technology. Those buildings fullydisplayed the merge and clash of cultures of East andWest, ancient and contemporary. Which is specicallyreflected in two aspects: one is that so manycultural factors, such as Chinese traditionalstyle, ancient Greek and Romanesque styles,European Gothic style of Middle Ages and

Islamic style, gathered in such smallregion; the other is that so many differentarchitectural styles manifested in one building, forming a kind of “hors d’œuvres”in a compromising way.

In t he se ove r sea s Ch inese v i l l ages ,a n o t h e r a t t r a c t i v e r e s i d e n t d w e l l i n g i sca l led “ Lu” . “ Lu” i s the e legant name of theresident dwell ing for those well- to-do overseas

The roof of the stone building isof a variant Byzantine style.

The miraculous combinationof Chinese-style banister andWestern-style Columns.

Harmonious Combination of Chinese and Western Elements

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

62style; the third was to build the balcony. The shape ofthe balcony’ plane and the bacony’s railing stylechanged in thousand of ways, such as the style ofsquare, the style of curve and so on. There are railing boards which bear the carving pa erns, and there are

The arcade-house withprotruding balconies.

The pediment and the upmostwall of the arcade-house.

The tops of arcade-house withcompletely different style.

hollowed railing boards which are made of precastslabs, also there are iron-ower railings. The housetopsof arcade-houses assume different shapes and postures.Most of them adopted simplied Western styles, evenincluding the Western-style pavilions in microform.

Most of the arcade-houses are located in thecommercial streets in the prosperous towns, so theywere built on both sides of the streets. The high priceof the land forced the building plane of arcade-houseto develop towards the trends of “small front and deep,large inside”. The airing, light, water supply anddrainage would be dealt with within the house, mainlythrough courtyard, hall and corridors. This arrangementlooked not good in terms of the high density of building, it is, however, quite suitable to the localclimate. It is hot in summer in southern GuangdongProvince, and the sun shines long during the day. Thehigh wall and narrow lanes will have most area in the

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63

shadow of these buildings, and the deep and quietcourtyards have the ne air-raising effect, therefore thelocal residents could enjoy a bit coolness.

Walking among those arcade-houses, what peoplefeel directly is the sense of entirety reflected by thosezigzag arcade-dwellings. In other words, these houses

offer fine visional sense of continuity. This mainlycomes from the sense of prosody produced by therepetition of the small size of each house, i.e. the so-called effect of “row upon row”. Though each shopfront and the width of each front room are so different,yet the floors and height of the houses are nearly thesame, the distance between shops is almost the same,thus giving a picture of prosperous commercialactivities. This building group created by the local

people really deserves the title of the “city design” oftraditional society, marveled at by allcontemporary architects.

In terms of the sightseeing of thetowns, the “mix-up pattern” of differentcultures reflected by the arcade-dwelling offers all kinds of thingsthat appear so unrelated andeven contradictive, forming

a kind of life situationin dramatic style.

The arcade-house shopping streetin Dihai Town which is winding andextending throughout the town.

The combination can be seen everywhere inthe arcade-house shopping street in ChikanTown, Kaiping.

Harmonious Combination of Chinese and Western Elements

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

64Different buildings mixed up, different shop signs come together, different shopowners shouted to sell their different goods, all of these seemed so untidy, while atthe same time displayed some kind of vitality. It is the “mix” that brings the streetsthe interests of life and sense of humor. So far as the prosperity of the towns isconcerned, such vigorous “mix” is benecial and necessary.

Ancestral Temples Remain the Same CharismaIn the overseas Chinese hometown, the features of the mixture of the multi-

cultures in the local buildings are not only reflected in the ordinary vernaculardwelling, but also in the traditional building of the ancestral temples – the localpeople’s spiritual sustenance. The patriarchal system of thousands of years deeprooted in the heart of Chinese people. No matter who rose in posi tion and fortune,he would seek for “returning to his hometown in glory”, “fallen leaves that returnto their roots”, “returning to his hometown to hold a memorial ceremony for hisancestors” under the strong influence of patriarchal consciousness and the close

blood relationship. This has been particularly stressed in those overseas Chinese.In those overseas Chinese, the influence of patriarchal consciousness is not negativetotally, but has risen to the love of their kith and kin and the strong homesicknessfor their hometown, as well as the strong patriotic enthusiasm. In the early 20 th

century, countless overseas Chinese returned to their hometown to set up factories,open schools and engaged in public welfare, as a result, promoting the all-rounddevelopment of the society, economy and culture of their hometown. Judged fromthe above facts, we can see that many overseas Chinese though physically wereabroad, yet spiritually still at home. They succeeded to Chinese cultural tradition,

once successful abroad, they would follow the tradition to build ancestral temples

The Charisma Hall in Kaiping.

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65at home or abroad to bring honor to their ancestors and encourage their descendants.The peculiarities in the hometown of the overseas Chinese reflected its cultural

and economic background. Those overseas Chinese lived abroad for a long time,having actively or passively accepted quite a l ittle Western way of life and aesthetic judgment. The ancestral temples they built inevitably betrayed their ideologicalchanges, as a result, there appeared “mixture of Oriental and Western elements”and “multi-combination” in the building’s plane layout, decoration style, techniqueand material.

Among the extant ancestral temples built by the overseas Chinese and theirrelatives, the most stylish and famous one was the “Charisma Hall” in Kaiping,which was located in Jiaodizui Xu of Dihai Town, one of the three ports. It was amemorial building in memory of Yu family’s ancestor – Yu Jing. According to thehistorical record, Yu Jing (A.D. 999-1064), a well-known minister in the Song Dynasty, born in Qujiang of Guangdong Province, also named An Dao, and named Wu Qiafter death. In order to commemorate him, his descendants built a temple in Qujiang,named “Charisma Hall”. From then on, Yu family’s descendants at home and abroad

all named memorial building “Charisma” or “Wu Qi” in memory of their ancestor.For example, in the United States, there is “CharismaHall” and “Wu Qi Hall”; in Canada, there is “YuCharisma Hall”; and in Guangzhou, there is “WuQi School”.

The Charisma Hall was built by Chinese buildersin the light of the Western style of buildings, aproduct of the cultural exchange of East and Westthrough civilian channels. Owing to their less

educated background, those traditional Chinese builders were less restrained by the so-called“regulations”. Through combination of Eastern andWestern building styles, the Hall appeared morelively and natural, novel and touching. The style andfunction of the Hall were the same as the traditionalones. The whole building was a large well-balanced“quadrangle”, both independent and connected,with strict structure and magnificent grandness. The

The details of decoration of the gate of the Charisma Hall.

Harmonious Combination of Chinese and Western Elements

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

66

most important and successful feature of the building is its 18 well-designed fire-prevention

walls. These fire-prevention walls originated fromhorse-head wall and absorbed the traditionalFang’ershan Wall of the local ancestral temples,hence resulted in the unique style.

In considering the building decorations, thedifferent parts within the hall exposes the use ofChinese traditional cra�s such as stone sculptures,wood sculptures, brick sculptures, po ery sculpturesand iron castings, while detailed decoration reected

the Western building technique. For example, the topof the upmost part of the entrance to the lane is ofWestern pediment style and with scroll-type decorativesculptures; lower to it are small eaves of Chinese blazedtiles and Chinese-style wall pictures of mountains andwater; still lower is the inscribed-board with Westerndecorations.

The pillars within the Hall were also masterpieces

The rectangle-ear gables.

There are a lot of exquisite stone carvings on the baseand banister of the entrance of the Charisma Hall.

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The Xuan , a combination of Chinese and Western cultural style in the CharismaHall. The Western-style iron pillars support the Chinese glazed tile.

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

68 of the combination of Eastern and Western styles. Somepillar heads were decorated with owers in classical Greekor Roman styles while the pillar bodies have no any sharpor mild concave troughs. At the same time some pillars wereerected on typical Chinese pillar bases. The material of thepillars was mostly of stone. And there are a few iron pillars.

For example, the half octagonal “ Xuan” stretching out infront of the Hall is none other than the green blazed tile roofsupported by four carved iron pillars, reecting the use ofnew material and technology.

Making a comprehensive survey of the watchtower,arcade-dwelling and ancestral halls, one can see these buildings have one general character, that is, boldlyabsorbing the alien culture and merging it with localculture, so as to produce a new building culture. Most ofthe resident houses in Wuyi are “buildings withoutarchitects”. Ordinary people were not restrained by“regulations” and trammels of conventional ideas, theymade full use of whatever they thought useful. Althoughtheir efforts and practice were not surely to achievedesirable effects, yet thisreected their mentalityof open-minded and thecreativity of “seeking forsomething new, somethingchangeable and something be er”.

by Yu Feng

The coexistence of Chinese-style color painting and Western-style arch.

The inner space and decorationdetails of the Charisma Hall.

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Small Bridges, FlowingStreams and Cottages

– An Introduction to Shaoxing, an Area of Rivers and Lakes

Three Thousand Taimens Originated from Shaoxing

Small Bridges and Flowing Streams Accompany Taimens

“Stage for All Ages” Close to Water at Shaoxing

Looking after Ancient Heritages and Exploring Secluded Places

Shaoxing is a famous historical and cultural city in China, an area of rivers, lakes, bridges, yellow wines and local operas. It is rich in historical sedimentation and le� atremendous amount of human cultural heritages. As a material carrier of long historicalculture, Shaoxing dwellings are embodiment of Shaoxing people’s human essence ofthousands of years, and reect their particular philosophy of life and cause people’sa ention and thinking.

Shaoxing is situated at the northern foot of the Huiji Hill, and in the west of theShaoning Plain on the southern bank of the Hangzhou Gulf in China. Shaoxing area hasa dense population and is a traditional area of sh and rice. Shaoxing has a very longhistory and a great quantity of historical documents and records.

A specic geographical and historical conditions engendered a specic cultural circleand accelerated the formalization of folk houses at various places. Shaoxing is animportant component of the cultural circle of the Han nationality in the south of thelower riches of the Changjiang River. The cultural and geographical position madeShaoxing dwellings belong to the system of non-beam-wood-framed construction. Fromthe macro view, Shaoxing dwellings have some common features with their nearby folk

dwellings, such as Huizhou dwellings and Suzhou dwellings. But from the micro view,

5

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

70Shaoxing’s geographical feature – a land where riversdensely distributed and the particular historical andcultural background gave its dwelling a strong speciccharacter. It is just this condition that gestated suchcolorful Shaoxing which is like a life painting: small

bridges, owing streams and co ages.

Three Thousand Taimens Originated from Shaoxing

The local features of Shaoxing dwellingsnot only reflect in spatial form but also intheir names. Generally, a larger house iscalled “ taimen”, but a simple and common

cottage or humble room can not be calledso. It is said that there were 3000 taimens at

old Shaoxing town, arranged in rows, showingThe water land.

The river surface is ascalm as mirror.

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71a prosperous scene of the southern region of the lowerriches of the Changjiang River. Taimen ’s planedistribution is as follows: along the principal axesfrom the entrance to extend longitudinally, there aregate, hall, main room and back hall in file; and at bothsides of the axes, there are usually bed rooms,storerooms and kitchen. Patios, for interior aerationand lighting in halls and rooms, links every row ofrooms. A larger taimen has five rows of rooms andeven much more. Combined with Chinese building’straditional distribution – due north and south,Shaoxing dwelling’s plane is like a long and narrowrectangle from north to south. For fireproof and guardagainst theft, a taimen’s external walls are closed,especially windows in gables are rarely opened; butthe inner is opened to patio, showing vitality.

The ways of traditional taimen’s naming varied andapproximately are four: in the light of official ranks; inthe light of trades, such as “sedan shop taimen”, “tinfoilpaper taimen” and “pharmacy taimen”; in the light of building’s features, such as “bamboo-thread taimen”,“iron-plate taimen” and “the Eight Diagrams taimen”; inthe light of surnames, such as taimen of family Wang,taimen of family Zhang and taimen of family Lin, etc.Because Chinese people always kept a tradition of all

members of a clan living together in a place, every taimenhad recorded the rise and fall of a family and piled upinnumerable historical stories. Up to day, many taimensare very incomplete and broken, their owners areunknown, but the way and avor of life lled in thoseold taimens were so simple and cordial, still keeping thecharm of ancient Yue culture.

The majority of Shaoxing dwellings are one or two-storied building, and the plane distribution is not strictly

The door-cover of Taimen .

The ancient taste still exists.

Small Bridges, Flowing Streams and Cottages

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

72symmetrical along the building’s axes. When a man enteredinto the closed patio along the narrow and cool lane, heshould feel enlightened suddenly. Not limited by generalrule, designers adjusted measures to local conditions andtreated with building distribution intelligently: patios being large or small, long or flat, make people findeverything new and fresh when they enter by the stairs.

Around the second floor of larger taimen’s patio, there wasgenerally a connected cloister; all of these compose a specialopen system up and down, and the residents there can talkeasily between two floors.

Among taimens , there were usually narrow lanes, pavedwith blue flagstones. In the rainy season in April and May,lanes extended to far in continuous drizzle, which is very

like a Chinese painting of misty rain. The lower part of gables at both sides of lanes,namely the dado of the external walls was made of stone for protecting the inner

brick wall.The exquisite taimens have more wood-carvings andstone carvings, which are an important manifestationof folk artisan’s techniques. The woodcarving wasprincipally used in building’s accessorial components,such as door and window partition board or ba er brace,with themes of lucky designs, animals and historicalpersonalities and so on, which skill very ne and imageslifelike. The majority of woodcarvings were not painted.Some of them kept the original color of wood and hadturned into dark brown step by step a�er long time;others, such as partition boards, painted by black paintshowed a charm of primitive simplicity foiled by whitewalls. Stone carving was usually used on doorcover andridge, generally as decorative components. Many folkhouses have stone-carved lattice windows, whichdesigns were basically linear veins, serving as a foil to

Taimen of the Zhang family havingwitnessed many a historical changes.

The deep narrow Lane.

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lanes, river villages can be found everywhere. For Shaoxing people, rivers are importantproductive factor as well as communications net and organic component of housingconditions.

Shaoxing traditional dwellings were generally built along rivers. According tothe relations between land and water communication systems, there are three cases:“a river with two streets”, “a river with one street” and “a river without any street”.

In towns with dense population, the total depth of a taimen was generally equal tothe width of the building block close to the river. The architectural layout of a taimenis as follows: the front door faces to street and the back door to the river. The frontside of the house was used as a shop and the back side close to the river was for

stocking goods through rivers. Traditional streets are narrow, suitable to walking;and the rivers to the backside of taimens were for sailing boats, like today’s motorways.

Seeing the highly efficient communication system of “men walk and boats navigaterespectively along their own way” of old times, we have to wonder the ability andwisdom of ancient Yue people.

In the planning structure of traditional dwellings of “a river with two streets”and “a river with one street”, the streets were between folk houses and rivers, playinga role of land communications and serving as the entrance and exit of watertransportation. The later function was realized by river wharves. There are a largenumber of river wharves at Shaoxing, very helpful to residents to use water in lifeand go on board. At some sections, every 4-5 meters there is a river-wharf averagely,

A river with two streets. A river with one street.

Small Bridges, Flowing Streams and Cottages

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77polygonal bridges, semi-round stone-arch bridges, U-shaped bridges and elliptoid stone-arch bridges, etc. whichconstitute a complete system of ancient bridges. SoShaoxing is called a “museum of Chinese ancient bridges”.

In distribution, Shaoxing’s bridges and buildings

compose an organic entirety. For example, a bridge like

Chinese character “ ” (eight), located at the east of Shaoxing Town and built in the Song Dynasty, is the

earliest urban bridge existing now in China: both sides

of the bridge incl ines face to face, l ike a Chinese

character “ ”, so called Bazi (eight) Bridge. The whole

bridge spans three rivers and links three streets, being

a real crossroads in ancient times. It is a rare design,

b e c a u s e t h e d e s i g n e r s o l v e d t h e p r o b l e m o f

communication better on the one hand, and did not

occupied many land used for building houses on theother hand. The other example is a small stone bridge

at Anchang; an approach bridge at one side of this

bridge extends into two folk houses on the bank;

viewing from the opposite bank, the form and colors

of the houses are very harmonious, the houses are like

bridge towers, merging into one organic whole with

the bridge.

“Stage for All Ages”Close to Waterat Shaoxing

Shaoxing is a very famous land of local operas, suchas traditional Xinchang Opera, Shaoxing Play with anout-and-out charm and Shaoxing Opera, the secondmost important local opera in China. The prosperity oflocal operas at Shaoxing promoted the construction ofmany stages. The famous writer Lu Xun (1881-1936)described vividly in his work Village Theatrical

The Anchang ancient bridge.

Small Bridges, Flowing Streams and Cottages

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78Performance: “The mostattractive thing is a stagestanding at an area closeto a r iver ou ts ide thevillage, which is standingfaintly in the distance inthe moon night, and can

hardly be seprated fromthe surrounding. I doubtt h a t t h e w o n d e r l a n dwhich I saw in picturese m e r g e s t h e r e ” . A tShaoxing area, ancientstages have a particular name – “stage for all ages”, which symbolizes localoperas’ unceasing continuity and eternal development.

Shaoxing’s “stage for all ages” was generally set up on the axis of a certain

series of buildings, facing to a temple or a clan ancestral hall, an enclosed groundwas used for spectators to see operas. The stage consists of two parts: the foresideis an open high platform, from which spectators of three sides can see theperformance on the stage; and the backside is closed rooms – rest-room, dressingroom, property room and in addition serves as stage’s background. The frontageof a stage must be toward a temple and the back must facilitate the opera troupeto convey dressing and property boxes easily from boats on rivers. Many stageshave carved beams and painted rafters, very delicate and refined.

Shaoxing’s ancient stages included stages close to rivers, stages in clan ancestralhalls and stages in temples. Among them, the ones most close to common people’slife and best reected the features of a land of rivers and lakes were stages close torivers distributed at towns. Their location was usually near a bridge or at a smallsquare close to a bridgehead. This location could economize investment and easilyevacuate spectators and at the same time, the high bridge itself is a best stand.Shaoxing’s ancient stages are an inseparable part of the whole environment oftraditional housing estate, providing the Shaoxing people a basic place for rest andentertainment, and propagated the people feudal morality and ethics by sermons inlocal operas. As a local culture, they were a way to express local people’s ideals anddesires. Their architectural form exhibited fully the agile, unpredictable and delicate

Stage and village theatrical performance.

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79features of buildings at the land ofrivers and lakes. Their combinationwith rivers in different positionsformed an organic part of thewhole prospect of a land of riversand lakes.

According to the relationship

among stage, the environmentof construction site, rivers androads, the stages close to rivercan be classified in four kinds:stage with three sides close toriver; stage spanning the river;stage spanning a street; and

stage set up at the center of a river. A stage with three sides close to river is mostpopular, such as Ancheng Stage at Mashan District of Shaoxing County. If the

ground for spectators was narrow, the platform would be set up in the river, wherethree sides close to river and a side near the riverbank. The facade of a stageusually faces to the riverbank, but some stages were located with their sidestoward riverbank, some even with the back to the riverbank. Why must a stageadopt this form? The reason is that most public places at Shaoxing’s traditionalsettlements are lineal streets and squares can hardly be found; but a large groundis necessary for local operas’ performance, so a stage set up in the river couldaccept more spectators.

In a place where the land for construction is insufficient and close to a narrowriver, the stage was usually set up directly across the river, such as the LongjinzhuangStage on the Nanshan hilltop near the southern gate of Shaoxing Town. The localoperas were acted on this stage. When boats were sailing through the stage, a poeticscenery of a land of rivers and lakes came into view. A stage spanning a street wasthe most interesting one: at ordinary times, it served as a street pavilion, and whenit’s time to act local operas, the stage board would be added. The example is theTuguci Stage, very well reserved up to day. The stages set up in the center of riverwere casually installed for some particular occasions, for example the stage in ariver written by Mr. Lu Xun in his work Village Theatrical Performance.

The stage by the river.

Small Bridges, Flowing Streams and Cottages

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

80Looking a�er Ancient Heritages and Exploring Secluded Places

Shaoxing is very known as “a land of sh and rice”, but even more known as “anremarkable place producing outstanding people” and “a place where celebritiesgather together” in China. The culture of a long history created by celebrities le� alot of former residences of celebrities, such as the Mansion of Lü, the Qingteng Study,the former residence of Lu Xun, the Sanwei Study, the former residence of Wang Xizhi(321-379), a very famous calligrapher in ancient China, and so on. Among them, some

are folk houses or mansions with impressive appearance; some are scholar’s studieswith aroma of Chinese ink; and others are houses close to river with Shaoxing’straditional charm. These former residences of celebrities spread all over the land ofthe Shaoxing region like stars in the sky, telling the people the brilliant past of Shaoxingand demonstrating its ne future.

The famous Mansion of Lü at Shaoxing, a residence of Lü Ben, a minister in the Jiajing reign of the Ming Dynasty (1522-1566), is a typical representative ofvernacular mansions. On the east, the mansion of Lü started from the Wan’an Bridgeto the Xiegong Bridge on

the west, on the southstarting from Xinhe Laneto the Dayou Storehouseon the north. There weretwo channels of water anda street in the mansionarea. The whole mansionis composed of 13 hallsand rooms in rows, called

“Thirteen Halls of MansionLü”. From the entrance’sstairs to enter, along the central axis from the south to north, there were Sedan Hall,Yong’en Hall, the Third Hall, the Fourth Hall and the Fifth Hall in turn; and thereare five buildings along left and right axes respectively. Its patios were large, hallscommodious, materials solid, reflecting some features of official mansions in thesouthern China in the Ming Dynasty. In addition, because this mansion was locatedat a land of rivers and lakes, it merged some fresh, lucid, lively, elegant and simplefeatures of Shaoxing dwellings.

The Qingteng Study is a typical representative of garden-style folk dwellings,

The former residence of Xu Xilin immerged in green plants.

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81with a superficies of less than two mu , a silent, elegant and uncommon environment,full of strong human flavor. This study was the birth and study place of Xu Wei(1521-1593), a famous calligrapher, painter and litterateur in the Ming Dynasty.Besides, Chen Hongshou (1598-1652), a great painter in the late Ming Dynasty andthe early Qing Dynasty, also lived here for admiring its reputation. The study wasan one-storied house built against the hill, with stonecolumns, brickwalls and woodgrilles; it had two rooms: the fore room facing south, a figure of Xu Wei, a script

written by him “Not Soiled by a Speck of Dust” and a horizontal inscribed-boardwritten by Chen Hongshou were hanging on the wall. There is a called “HeavenPool” in the patio outside of the southern windows, Xu Wei said: “the pool has no bottom, not dry even in arid days, some divinities seem in it”. The well, the bench,the door, the pool, and the vine, are with simple form but comprehensive meanings,show fully the extraordinaryartistic savor and gardentechnique of this paintingmaster.

The former residence ofLu Xun, Sanwei Study, Baicao Garden and the ancestralhouse of Lu Xun are the birthand growth place of Mr. LuXun, an eminent writer ofChina. They showed the truea s p e c t o f c o m m o n f o l khouses at Shaoxing in LuXun’s adolescent t imes .Many times, Lu Xun described these places in his works, such as the very knownessay From Baicao Garden to Sanwei Study. The Sanwei Study was a famous privateschool at Shaoxing in the late Qing Dynasty, where Lu Xun studied from 12-17years old. The former residence of Lu Xun and Sanwei Study were houses withwhite walls, black tiles, and columns painted with black paint, simple and elegant,reflecting sufficiently Shaoxing traditional dwelling’s dimensional form in thelate Qing Dynasty and the early years of the Republic of China. The BaicaoGardenis located at the back of the former residence of Lu Xun, originally a vegetable

A well, a bench, a gate, a pond and a vine.

Small Bridges, Flowing Streams and Cottages

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garden where young Lu Xun played frequently,tasting amaranthine mulberry and sweet but vinegaryraspberry, capturing crickets and pulling out poligonummultiorum. These interesting things in childhood le�nice and indelible impressions in Lu Xun’s mind and makepeople taste the life in old traditional dwellings fromchildren’s visual angle.

Shaoxing dwellings are situated at the residentialenvironment full of poetic and artistic conception, built

by ancestors of the ancient Yue region on the base oftheir deep understanding of the environment of land ofrivers and lakes; furthermore they are a group of vividlife scenes and a high-grade culture continued for longtimes.

by Yu Feng

The front gate of Sanwei Study.

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Imposing Dwellings andSpacious Courtyard

– A Visit of the Residential Quadrangle

The Imposing Dwellings and Spacious Courtyards

Knock at the Door Leaves

Floral-Pendant Gate Letting People’s Mind at Ease

A Place of Unique Beauty

From the commencement of large-scale city construction a�er the Yuan Dynastyformally made Beijing its capital, the residential quadrangle emerged with the palaces,government office buildings, street blocks and lanes in Beijing. According to the decreesof Kublai Khan, the founder of the Yuan Dynasty, the residents who moved to the oldBeijing were rich men or high-ranking officials who had the priority to get 8.1 mu land,where they could build the private residential. The traditional residential quadranglesrose in Beijing.

Aside from the Forbidden City, Imperial Gardens, Monastery, Temples, Dwellingsof royal family and government office buildings, the numerous buildings in old Beijing

were the residential houses of the common people which take the form of quadrangles.Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, though the quadrangles in Beijing had experiencedmany vicissitudes of life, the basic living styles were already formulated; havingundergone continuous improvement the unique vernacular dwelling was presented before us.

The mode of quadrangle was characterized by its solemnness, elegance, reasonablearrangement, as well as peaceful and secluded environment. The ancient romantic charmof the quadrangle in Beijing was contained in its high steps, gate stone, scarlet arch, blue bricks, grey tiles, bargeboard (An o�en ornamented board that conceals roof timber projecting

over gables.) , high-rising ridge ornaments like horsetails, landscape paintings under the

6

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eaves, rubbed brickwork, and ingeniousand delicate gardens…

The Imposing Dwellings andSpacious Courtyards

The quadrangles in Beijing had theirinternal links with grid arrangement ofchessboard-shaped streets. A normalquadrangle was facing the south in linewith land heading from the east to thewest.

With symmetrical central axis, balanced lef t and r ight s ides thequadrangle is closed to the outside,internally centripetal and square-shaped.The scale of the quadrangles varied fromeach other while their sizes registeredlarge difference, but no ma er that theywere big or small, all of them werecomposed of basic units.

A courtyard surrounded by houseswas the basic unit of residentialquadrangle, which was called “ Yi Jin Si

The main entrance of the quadrangle.

Groups of quadrangles.

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85He Yuan ” (the residential quadrangle with onecourtyard); while the quadrangle composed of two

courtyards were regarded as Er Jin Si He Yuan , andthree courtyards, San Jin Si He Yuan and so

forth. The large quadrangle (such asResidence of a royal family) might

h a v e s e v e n t o n i n e

courtyards. Aside fromthe main yard situated atthe center, there wereside yards in the east and

west sides; in a word, theywere imposing dwellings and

spacious courtyards.The arrangement of the quadrangle in Beijing was

relatively fixed. Generally speaking, the quadrangle

consists of the principal rooms, the aisles, thewingrooms, the back cabinet house, and the invertedrooms.

Due to the inuence of the sunshine, the housesfacing the sun in a quadrangle are the best, thereforethe northern rooms were usually chosen as the principalrooms while the wing rooms were situated on the east

and west sides of the quadrangle. The principalrooms were most important dwellings.

Because the memorial tablets ofthe ancestor and the hall were inthe central part of the principal

rooms, the pr inc ip le roomsoccupied the highest position in the

whole residence. The space, depth andheight of the principal rooms were larger or

longer than other rooms. The principal rooms werecomposed of three rooms, in the central was the hall

A bird’s-eye view of the middle-sizedquadrangle.

A bird’s-eye view of the large-sizedquadrangle with a garden.

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storing the memorial tablets of their ancestors, and on the eastern side stood theliving room of grandparents, wile on its west wing situated the living room of fatherand mother. The room on the le� side were larger than the one on the right. This wasresulting from the traditional conception of the le� being more superior. In thequadrangle, aside from the hall on the central axis, the eastern house was regardedas the secondly good rooms.

The rooms situated in front of the principal rooms, and expanded the space ofyard were called wing rooms. Wing rooms was usually composed of three roomswhere the younger generations lived.

At two sides of the principal rooms usually stood the aisles. Just like the principalrooms, the aisles were usually facing the south. The only difference is their spacesare smaller. In other words, their back walls are parallel to the principal roomswhile their front walls were shrunkfrom the principal rooms. Becausethey are narrow in depth, the height

of them is lower too. If the principalrooms were likened to a human face,then, the aisles were two ears ofhuman being. There may stand oneaisle on each side of the principalrooms, which was called “threerooms in the open and five rooms insecret”. In other words, at initialglance, we can see three rooms, butas a matter of fact, the principal rooms

A view of the principal rooms, the east

and west wing rooms and the courtyardfrom the oral-pendant gate.

The aisle, the small patio and the veranda.

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87

were composed of 5 rooms. Of course, there may also stand two aisles on each side of the principalrooms, which was called “three rooms in the open and 7 rooms in secret”. Just in front of the aisleswas the northern gable of the eastern wing rooms or west wing rooms. The east and west sides ofthe small space between the aisles and the gables of wing rooms were separated by courtyard wallsand the verandas, which formed a small yard before the aisles. The unpaved ground in the yardwas called “open-air ground”, where owers and trees were planted by the landlords. In themeantime the aisles were the studies of a number of scholars because they had a very good readingenvironment with direct sunshine and a small space that could keep good secret.

The aisles were usually linked to the secondary rooms of the principal rooms.The principal rooms and aisles had independent gables. But, a�er the founding ofthe Republic of China in 1911, the structure of the quadrangle inclined to simplication,for instance, two gables had combined into one.

The principal rooms and wing rooms were linked by the fold-arm veranda, whichwas an a ached open structure that might be the corridor, or a place where peoplemay have a rest or appreciate the delightful scenery.

The house at the back of the principal rooms was called “back cabinet house”,which were composed of many rooms. The back cabinet house located at the backplace of courtyard were mainly living rooms for girls or maidservants, the backcabinet house could keep secrets very well. The girls were placed under rigidsupervision of their parents because they should pass through the principal roomswhere their parents lived if they desired to go out. The back cabinet house wassecondly to the wing rooms in terms of its grade, therefore, it was smaller than thewing rooms. If the back of a quadrangle was facing the street, a house on thenorthwest corner could serve as the backdoor. The wall of the quadrangle adjacent

to the street usually had no window at all, sometimes only had high small windows;the passer-by could not see anything inside of the rooms.

The back cabinet house were situated in the north end of the courtyard while theopposite rooms in the southern end were called “inverted rooms”. Those invertedrooms were arranged in the following order: the room on the east end was given toprivate school; the second room counting from the east was the gate; the room just inthe opposite of the chui hua men(oral-pendant gate) was the living room of man servant;the rooms next to man servant room and in the opposite of three principal rooms were

Imposing Dwellings and Spacious Courtyard

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88guest rooms, which sometimes were used as receptionrooms. The room at the west end of the inverted roomswas the toilet separated by wall running from the Southto North. It had a small gate, which was called Moon Gate.In superstition, the southwest corner was the place of veghosts’ abode. The lthiness of the toilet could suppressthe disturbances created by the right white tiger (according

to the ancient Chinese myths, there were four spirits whoguarded at the four directions: the green dragon on thele�; white tiger on the right, rose nch in the front andtortoise in the back.).

The quadrangle with more than two courtyardscould be divided into internal residence and externalresidence, while they were connected by two gates:oral-pedant gate and screen gate.

Knock at the Door LeavesIf you were walking in a lane of old Beijing youmight nd the closed door leaves on the way. Such anatmosphere and feelings of tranquility was typical ofBeijing avor.

From time to time Chinese people paid speciala ention to gate, which was the face of the vernaculardwelling and symbolization of the social status. Thesocial status of a household head could be distinguished

from the style, size, roof shapes, color of paints andornaments of the gate.

According to scale and rank the quadrangle gatescould be divided into wangfu ( royal family) gate, brilliant gate, golden-column gate and ruyi gate (“s”shaped ornamental gate). The wangfu gate, brilliantgate and golden-column gate were most possessed bythe kings, princes and aristocrats and bureaucratic

The golden-column gate.

The Ruyi gate.

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89strata, while the ruyi gate was erected by businessmenor rich merchants. The gate of the quadrangle was justlike a small house that could be called house-shapedgate.

Brilliant gate was the highest ranking gate secondonly to wangfu gate, while it could only be built infront of residence of certain ranking officials in the

Qing Dynasty. Generally speaking, thegate of the quadrangle in Beijing wasone of the inverted rooms. This roomwas deeper than the rooms next to itand with a higher roof; while the wallsat two sides of the gate protruding asornament. Something was put underthe ground of the gate to raise its level,which was higher than the street or lane

outside the gate. If you come out of thequadrangle you may have a feeling ofoccupying a commanding position; if you enter thequadrangle, you may have a sense of ascending aheight. The part near the lower part of the roofingand on the front of the gables located at the two sidesof the gate caved in a li ttle , which was called “ Chitou (step)”. The Chitou was usually ornamented with brick carving. The contents of the brick carving fell

into two categories: praying for happiness, oravoiding evil spirits.

The special feature of the brilliant gate was that thegate stood between the gable columns under the ridgepurlin. The gate opening was divided into two: halfoutside of the gate and half inside of the gate. The lowerend of gate axis was placed on the pit of gate pillowstone while the upper end was bound with needle beam(Needle beam was kind of ornament decorated on the gate of the quadrangle or some small courtyards.) and principal

The drum stone.

The petty lion on the gatepillow stone.

Imposing Dwellings and Spacious Courtyard

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90column. Four different shaped needle beams decorated with wood carvings werewidely used. A pair of drum stone ( Drum stone is a kind of gate pillow stone, whose upper part was shaped like a drum.) stood outside of door leaves. The drum stone was theornament at both sides of the gate. The needle beams coupled well with the drumstone and added endless charm to the gate.

Most brilliant gate had no ceilings while people can look up at the structureunder the roof. A half-suspended ceiling might be fixed. The suspended ceiling wasusually fixed under the roof inside of the gate, therefore it was designated as half-

suspended ceiling. The roof of the gate of thequadrangle in Beijing was Yingshan roof ( Yingshanroof was a kind of Chinese roof characterized by not protruding outside the gable.) using cylindrical tiles.The steps were outside of the gate while the flagstones with vertical stripes and slopes were pavedat the two sides of the steps.

The golden-column gate was more ingenious than

the brilliant gate. The most outer column of the building was the peripheral column, the columnsupporting the roof ridge in the center was callednewel while the golden column standing between the

peripheral column and the newel. The gate with gate leaves xed on the goldencolumn was called the golden-column gate. In both directions of the newel alwaysstood the golden column. The golden column gate in the quadrangle in Beijing wasxed on the outer golden column between the newel and outer peripheral column.Such a gate was characterized by shallow passageway out of

the gate leaves and deep passageway behind the gateleaves. Other ornaments of the golden column gate wassimilar to those of the brilliant gate, except that asuspended ceiling was installed. Especially on thepadding board among the suspended ceiling,eaves purlins and efang out of the gate leaves waspainted with colorful picture in Suzhou style.

The screen wall was a brick-structured wall withstrong ornamental and symbolizing signicance in front of

The screen wall.

The exquisite oral-pendant gate.

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91the gate of the quadrangle in Beijing. Its main function was to beautify the entrance of thegate, people might see the carved auspicious words or eulogies or decorated ornamentson the wall face.

The screen wall served as contrast to the gate while the la er would serve ascontrast to the former, they could not be separated from each other. The screen wallwas only a wall, but it played a role of foiling the quadrangle because of its ingeniousand delicate structure.

Floral-Pendant Gate Le ing People’s Mind at EaseThe oral-pendant gate was an elegant gate of the quadrangle in Beijing being

characterized by its dignity and beauty, which served as the demarcation of outercourtyard and the inner residence.

The oral-pendant gate was built on the mainaxis of the quadrangle while it was situated at themiddle north side of the outer courtyard, and laid

on the three strata or ve strata steps of greenishmarble serving as the demarcation of the front courtand inner court.

The front court was the place for guest receptionwhile the inner court was the living quarters forfamily members, where the strangers were notallowed to enter, even the servants, had no exception.The old saying goes that “the servants could not gotout of the gate and enter into the second gate”. The

second gate referred to the oral-pendant gate.Two functions were played by the oral-pendant

gate. One was the defending function. Between twocolumns on the exterior side xed the rst successivegate which was very thick, just like the street gate,while it was called “chessboard gate” or “polygonalgate”, which was opened to communications in thedaytime and was closed at night for safety.

Secondly it played the role of screening, which

was the main function of the oral-pendant gate. In The Lotus-pendent Column (I).

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The Lotus-pendent Column (II).

The profound courtyard with an elegant tast.

inner court and rooms. This function of the floral-pendant gate was played to fullylink the outer residences while having rigidly divided the space.

Viewing from its shape it was called “oral-pendant gate” because the peripheralcolumn was suspended, while it was embellished with beautiful wood carvings suchas lotus petals and lotus leaves.

In the meantime, the floral-pendant gate was a building for ornamentation, asall its projecting parts were embellished with the delicate ornaments. The exteriorside of beam head was carved in a shape of rosy clouds that was named as “hemp-leaf beam head” and was rarely seen in other kind of buildings. Under the hemp-leaf beam head there was a pair of short overhanging columns with a downward pillarhead carved with lotus petals, strings of pearlsand floriation, just like the flower bud to open.This pair of short columns was called “lotus-pendant column”. The name of the floral-pendant gate perhaps was derived from thespecific pendant columns.

The floral-pendant gate was located at thecentral axis of the whole courtyard. It issplendid and conspicuous and could be theembodiment of the finance and culturalcultivation as well as the hobby and character

order to guarantee the privacy, between the two columns on theinterior side fixed the secondsuccess ive ga te ca l led “ thescreening gate”. Except for themagnificent rites like weddingand funerals that needed to open

it, the screening gate was closedall the time, when people enteredor came out the second gate theyusually passed the side doors beside the screening gate orpassed through the veranda beside the screening gate to the

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The former dwelling of a famous scholar covered by green leaves.

of the residential owner.Through the small floral-pendant gate we can see the industrious, wise and

intelligent Chinese people of ancient times, and a series of picture scrolls of folkcustom with strong national flavor.

A Place of Unique BeautyA plot of land was enclosed by the dwellings, winding corridors and surrounding

walls forming a unied space – the quadrangle.The frost-free period in Beijing lasted about 200 days and all the year round it is

su i tab le for the ou tdooract ivi t ies . And moreover, because of long sunshine time,the courtyard dwellings weremore su i tab le to l ive in .Because of bitter cold and

slant sunlight in winter thecourtyard was quite wide andspac ious so t ha t a l l t he buildings could receive moresunshine with less shelter.

The sunlight shining intothe room not only couldincrease the temperature ofthe room, bu t a l so makepeople in the room feel warm-hearted spiritually. The quadrangle in Beijing was secluded from the outside withwindows open to the courtyard. This is an effective measure against the sand storm.The courtyard is the core of the family life. Therefore, the construction of the courtyardshowed special esthetic taste.

Attention was paid to planting flowers and trees in the courtyard to form a goodenvironment sheltered by trees and flowers. The four square plots of land at the fourcorners of the courtyard were reserved for planting without any stone pavement.The most favorite flowers of the old Beijing Men included lilac, Chinese floweringcrabapple, flowering plum, mountain peach flower, while the most favorite trees of

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The cosy indoor space.

old Beijing Men included jujube tree, Chinese scholartree and cherry apple tree, among them the cherry appletree was regarded the most orthodox which was thesymbol of harmony between brothers. Up to the moderntimes more kinds of trees were planted in Beijing. Allowering plants and trees with fruits were welcomed by the people in Beijing.

Miniature trees and rocky was the special trait of thequadrangle in Beijing. A saying of the Qing Dynasty goesthat “canopy, sh jar, pomegranate tree, lords, fat dogs andfat girls” which is the vivid picture of the quadrangle inBeijing. The sh jar not only bred golden shes but alsoplanted lotus. The potted flowers and trees includedpomegranate trees, rosebay orange osmanthus, bay tree,azalea, cape jasmine , and so on. The pomegranate treeswere planted in big ower pots covered with green-painted

wood bucket. Pomegranate tree lovers mainly prayed formore children because of the numerousness of seeds inpomegranate fruit. In the winter, all these owers and treeswould move into houses.

The four-o’clock, morning glory, hyacinth beanower in front of steps were the common pre y sceneryof the quadrangle in Beijing.

The ideal traditional living style of the Chinesepeople was the quadrangle composed of houses,

courtyard, rst gate, second gate, verandas, privateschool, drawing room, screen wall, warehouse, kitchen,even gardens or stabes in big families. The quadranglewas a closed residence with a gate toward the street. Ifthe gate was closed, the quadrangle would be a smallworld that could keep good secret and was ideal to theinhabitation of the whole family.

by Zhao Zhifeng

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Natural Rhythm and IntelligentConversion – Inspections on Zhang Dwelling in CentralYunnan

Abode Groveling on the Mother Earth

Homestead Where Souls Reposed

The Conversion to Nature

There are lots of beautiful places, such as Dali, Li Jiang, Xishuangbanna, etc., whichenchant tourists. But when you visit Central and South Yunnan areas and go deep intothe Ailao Mountain, the Red River’s drainage areas, the scenery composed of alps, ow-ing water, terraced elds and houses will a ract you, and you will nd that here is alsoso ne. There are good mountains, good waters, and good folkways here. This portionof beauty contains boldness, sturdiness and gri iness, which make you generate deepaffection.

The cloud sea, the terraced elds and the ancient Butou road of world wonder can be found here. Even the distinct charm of Tu Zhang Dwelling villages, which dispersivedlylocate in canyons and seem growing out from mountain soil, can be appreciated.

Abode Groveling on the Mother EarthThe Ailao Mountain ranges are rising and falling, while the sceneries across the

Red River straits are grand and rare. The weather is genial, rainfall is abundant, andforest is exuberant here. Since thousands of years, people of different nationalities,such as Yi, Hani, Dai, Miao, Yao, Zhuang and Han, etc. have lived in these highmountain ridges for generations. And the Tu Zhang Dwellings are their abodes and

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homesteads, which are built among thenatural environment.

Generally speaking, compared withresidences with exquisite forms in somereg ions o f Yunnan ( such a s Ba inationality’s dwellings in Dali area,western Yunnan), the Tu Zhang Dwellingobviously is simple and economical.Even compared with riverside-courtyarddwelling at almost the same area, the Tu

Zhang Dwelling is much more inferior interms of renement. However, the Tu

Zhang Dwelling’s satisfaction towardl iv ing l og i c , adap t a t i on t owardproductivity condition, and relation withthe surrounding environment naturallyshow Yi and Hani people’s sincerity

The mushroom houses of the Hani nationality.

The settlement in theAilao Mountains of theRed River basin.

The Tuzhang -Dwelling village followingthe topography of the mountain.

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98use. Immature soils and timbers are gifts of nature,and it conforms to natural logic to utilize the gifts to build shields. There are lots of dwellings and villages built of soils in North-west China and Tibet, Middle-east and ancient Babylon regions. All of these houses

built of soil materials are called “immature soils building” by architects and the Tu Zhang Dwelling isone typical “immature soils building”.

Inside the Tu Zhang Dwelling, wood pillars andwood girders form the structure system, whosearrangement relates to space required by life. Forinstance, the Tu Zhang Dwellings with a two-storiedstructure are commonly found, the first floor for bedroom, living room and kitchen, the second floorfor depository and sundries. Whether soil house or

The entrance of the Tu Zhang Dwelling.

The principal room and aisle of

the Tu Zhang Dwelling.

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99grass house, the middle room among three big openrooms must be central room, which is used for receivingguests, dining or feting, and the right and the le� onesare bedroom and kitchen. There are other rooms forca le, horse, pig and chicken. Yi and Hani People notonly let wood structure serve as force-bearing structure, but also let it serve the actual requirement for dwelling

and sheltering. So, when building a new house, the Yipeople will certainly choose a lucky day: vertical pillarand girder are set up at night, roof truss is set up beforedawn, and top girder is raised in next day’s morning.During raising top girder, a piece of deep red cloth isenlaced in the middle of the top girder. The girder israised to the peak of house in recrackers’ sound.

Most of Tu Zhang Dwellings spread over themountainsides of big mountains. Because there is not

a vast expanse of plains, and there are layers uponlayers of terraces, lands for villages are very limited.So, the flat-roof of Tu Zhang Dwelling becomes anotherkind of location for domestic work. This platform cannot only air and bask crops, but also carry out manyfamily activities. On the platform, there are not onlymany crops such as paddy, corn, buckwheat ,miscellaneous bean, vegetable, melon and fruits, but

A continous platform formed by the

roofs of Tu Zhang Dwellings.

The interesting walkingsystem in the air.

Natural Rhythm and Intelligent Conversion

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

100also people working busily or taking arest with families, which exhibit anagreeable atmosphere and vision offamily life. What is more miraculous isthat most of the flatroofs in villages areconnected by wood ladders. Thus, an“air transportation system” is formed.

Therefore, guests often descend from

air. We cannot help but gasp in admiringvillagers’ imagination and creativityduring house building.

Because o f r i gh t s e l ec t i on o fmaterials, structure and constructingmode, the Tu Zhang Dwelling’s walland house face have good heat-storageability, adapting to local xerothermicriver valley climate. It doesn’t becomehot under solarization, doesn’t let coldwind in, and can not be drenched byrain. The Tu Zhang Dwelling is warmin winter and cool in summer. All of

Many a family activities are performed on the roof of Tu zhang Dwelling.

The wall of the Tu zhang Dwelling.

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these are highly fi t for dwelling and daily living for human being. The local peoplevividly say that the Tu Zhang Dwelling seems as a heat preservation ke le.

The Tu Zhang Dwelling has soil wall and roof, and is solid and massy, the wallhas no window or just small window. Viewing from far away, there is a stretch ofreddish yellow, which appears profound and rustic, and has a kind of inherent andstout appeal and aesthetic feeling.

Homestead Where Souls ReposedFor people in Tu Zhang Dwelling villages, these architectures are not only their

lives’ abode, but also their spiritual homestead.Many scholars think that the Tu Zhang Dwelling and co-generic mushroom

house in Red River valley of Yunnan should be a kind of variant of ancient caveabode, which is reconstructed by Yi and Hani nationalities who are descendants ofimmigrants of ancient Qiang nationality. Though this merits in-depth research, theconfiguration and inherent essence of the Tu Zhang Dwelling are consistent withthe cave abode created by ancient Qiang nationality according to spiritual strain.For example, Hani’s Congpopo (In Hani language, Congpopo means moving from

A overlook of the Tu Zhang Dwelling village.

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

102one place to another.), an important work of Hani’s traditional literature, saysdirectly that six thousand Hani people left hometown, and went toward southernmountains. Now, pan-manitou, ancestor and hero worship le� in Yi and Hani nationalitiesare similar to that of the ancient Qiang ancestors of the upper reach of Yellow River. Evencentral ground, deity forest and village gate in villages have intensive signication. So,people can subtly feel that the Tu Zhang Dwelling and the Tu Zhang Dwelling village

reect obscure cognition about universe

descended from ancestors, and also implytheir souls’ reposition for ancestors.

There is a legend in Hani’s myth:during remote antiquity time, Hanipeople resided in cave, mountains werehigh and roads were steep, and it wasvery inconvenient to work out of house.Afterward, when they came to a place,called Reluo , they found big mushrooms

all over the mountains and plains,which could withstand wind’s blowand rain’s hit and under which ants

n e s t e d . T h e r e w i t h , p e o p l econstructed mushroom houses. Thiskind of pan-manitou also incarnates

in village’s layout. For example,Village Deity Forest which is theabode of the village deity and setup on upper vi l lage, should bedetermined when building a village:taking big tree which was out of the village as a sign, or simply using branchesto construct vi llage gate aimed to bar tragedy, wickedness and ghosts ou t of thevillage; Mo Qiu Square, which lied at village corner, was the place for stagingthe whole vi llage’s fete activity. And, Hani people thought that the well’s stream,

which originated from mountains, is bestowed by mountain deity. If women

The mushroom houses and the lane in the village.

There are a lot of ponds in the village and the ponds aresurrounded by green trees.

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drink it, she would become beautiful. If men drink it,he would become handsome. From these facts, we cansee that Yi and Hani people look village as theirnationality’s safe habitat and shelter, and their spiritualdependence, so they always have very good imagination

about the origin of house and village, and in theseimagination repose their yearn for good life.

In the Tu Zhang Dwelling villages, each family hasa fire pit, which was the center for family activities andspiritual reposition as well. The fire pit was set upinside of room, and never extinct, and had a tripod onit, which could hold up pan to fry dish. Commonly, allfamilies drank tea and had dinner around the fire pit,and warmed themselves in winter. Some families set

The Village Deity Forest beyond the Hani village.

The grassy roof, road and greenplants form a entirety.

Natural Rhythm and Intelligent Conversion

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104a bed for the aged near the re pit, which represented an ancient relic, called “sleepingaround re”. When guests came, hot-hearted host would let them sit around the re pit,let them take water cigare e for a long time, drink a cup of “sticky rice savory tea”, anddrink a cup of goluptious “stuffy pan wine”. With the alcohol interest, the host wouldopen his voice, singing songs to wish guest lucky. So, the re pit was tender andaffectionate.

The Tu Zhang Dwelling and its village have another characteristic – a Tu Zhang

Dwelling’s space is not very big indicating a kind of equilibrium and equality. Thereis no tall wall and big courtyard, and no alleyway and deep residence, which madepeople feel comfortable and peaceful. This characteristic shows conspicuousdifferences with other nationalities’ house size and hierarchy distinction, which,however, was determined by Yi and Hani people’s family and social structure. Asto Hani people, they have still kept paternalistic family structure, in which maleplayed the main role. This paternalistic family seldom had several generationstogether. Except that the youngest son will live with his parents until they die, othersons should leave well after marriage. So, every generation could divide into several

little families, and construct social basic cell. Because of the vertical strain structurefor generations, the whole village forms very complex but very clear consanguinerelation net and village social structure. This village social structure made peopleof a clan very united. This kind of concord and harmonious atmosphere in the Tu

Zhang Dwelling was common. Hani people’s “long street banquet” thoroughlyrepresented good feeling among neighbors.

In the morning of New Year, every Hani village would begin the long booze inthe center of the village and celebrated the festival symbolizing their comity, concord,luckiness and happiness. People carried square tables to street center to connectone by one, more than one hundred tables were connected to form a 100 meterslong dragon. Then, each family used dapper bamboo basket to carry their skillfuldishes. At the first glance, there were every specialty from soup to nuts. In thisvivid vision, one could not help sighing with feeling the complete harmony amongconstructions, street and people’s life in Tu Zhang Dwelling villages.

All the windows of Tu Zhang Dwelling were very small, and most of windows usingli le stout ba en as window la ice. When the sky was clear, sunlight shot into acrosswindow la ice continuously. The goods in the sunlight were bright and vivid; thosegoods in shadow ash a layer of dark light, which was antique and mysterious.

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105The Conversion to NatureRelationship between Tu Zhang Dwelling villages

and their natural environment is very harmonious, andTu Zhang Dwelling villages are ecological homesteads ing for inhabitation. Houses were built along sunnyhill slopes, distributed along hillside and layer uponlayer. Fountains from mountains ow into village across

every house. Green foliages, for example, golden bamboo and brown loquat, were extensively planted,and the environment was clear and mellow. According

to a Hani’s ancient song, three tiers of palm trees should be planted at village’s head, three tiers of golden bamboos should be planted at village’s house. Aroundvillage, the forest was luxuriant and strongly fragrant.

Terraced elds before village extended to hillfoot, andwhen it is season for transplanting seedlings, water eldseems like bright mirrors with brilliant and silver lightgli ering under the sun.

Terraced fields are masterpiece of Hani people.Since thousands of years, in abnormally hardenvironment of high mountains and valleys, Hanipeople had accumulated and created a suit of plantingexperience and pattern on terraced fields. They built

banks according to natural ecological situation, while

The terraces in the morning sunlight.

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106having introduced never-dried springs into terraces.In early spring, terraced fields were like clusters of bright pearls spread from the sky; in March or April,layers of terraced fields were like blocks of green

tapestries; in end summer or early autumn, maturepaddies were golden yellow. In the Ailao mountainranges these terraced fields sometimes reach hundredsof stages and stretch around several mountains andthe scenery is spectacular. Some scholars said that “thesucceess of digging up terraced fields made Haninationality’s social and historical development processchanged dramatically, they eventually settled downfrom rambling-travel furrowing and long time slash-and-burn farming, and produced new living mode andvalue and philosophy, whose core is terraced-rice-farming culture”.

Terraces had melted into Hani peoples’ life and theyhad deep relationship with terraces. There is a folksaying of Ailao Hani nationality, saying that “terrace ischap’s face”. Whether a chap is handsome is notdetermined by his appearance but by his tilling skills.If he is well versed in bank’s building, mound’sshoveling, and land’s plough, he should be appreciated

Terrace in the depths of the

Ailao Mountains cultivatedby the Hani people.

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107 by everybody, and would naturally win girl’s love.Whether a girl is beautiful or not, is not decided by herappearance, and also partly by whether she can work interrace.

In fact, Hani people’ hardworking and wisdom arenot merely exhibited in digging up terraces, and whatis more important is that they created terrace culture.

The spiritual essence implied by this culture isappreciating nature, conforming to nature and kindlytreating nature.

The Tu Zhang Dwelling at mountainsides also

harmoniously melted into the nature eco-system, andfound its fit position. That “areas at up mountain aresuitable for herding, those at middle mountain aresuitable for dwelling and those at down mountains aresuitable for furrowing” is the best annotation for thisvillage gathering mode. This village layout wasrepeatedly mentioned by Hani ancient songs and adages,

The upmost part of the mountain issuitable for grazing, the middle partis suitable to construct dwellingsand the elds at the foot of themountain is ideal for cultivation.

Natural Rhythm and Intelligent Conversion

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108for example, “Fields should be farmed at mountain foot, babies should be produced at mountainside”. “Hugemountain ridge, green mountain, beautiful water, fewdisaster; dense forest is hard to carve out a way, monstersalso do not dare to enter village, all descendants of Hanipeople love to build village on mountains”.

On all Hani villages’ backward mountains, there is

a tract of green woods, Hani people look it as deityforest, and people pray to it for the peace of village,health of villagers and good harvest of terraces everyyear. So, protecting mountain forest become theiraustere and natural hope and request. Hani people alsopay attention to harmonious relationship betweenvillage population and resources. Their villagegenerally is not very big, has about several hundredsof families. With the population increasing, part of

them should be separated from the village, buildvillage basing on the same mode at another mountain,and dig up terraces. This village development modealso indicates local people’s comprehension andadaption to the nature on the other hand.

Tu Zhang Dwellings and those sceneries resemblesfairyland, villages like a big garden. Like the Ailaomountain people’s soul, the Tu Zhang Dwelling hadmelted into the nature and been converted to naturalfairyland.

by Wang Dong

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Comfortable and HarmoniousDwelling Prizing the Cultureand Martial Art

– A View of Minxi Dwelling

Hakkas’ Homeland

A Glimpse of Clay Building

Tracing Back to the Source

Intergrowth with the Human Affection and Reason

Minxi (west part of Fujian Province) is surrounded by mountains and far from thenoise of industrial civilization, just like the imaginary paradise or Shangri-la in the hu-man world. The picturesque Wuyi Mountain scenic spot a racts the a ention of thecitizens of modern cities. It is of greater importance to say that here is the homeland ofseveral score millions of Hakkas. Besides, the specic historical and geographic locationhas nurtured a unique dwelling which is called “clay building” in the Minxi area, everyonehaving a look at its appearance will gasp in admiration of its beauty.

Hakkas’ HomelandWe must mention Hakkas when talking about the Fujian dwelling. Many Hakkas

in Minxi area built their uncalcined clay building abode while the existing uncalcinedclay buildings are mainly located at the Hakkas settlements. Hakkas who accountedfor 6% of the Han population are a branch of the Han nationality. Hakkas’s ancestorslived in the Central Plains of China. After the Western Jin Dynasty (265-316), theHans having suffered from chaos caused by wars gradually migrated southwardlyand a number of them immigrated into the place where Jiangxi, Guangdong and

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Fujian Provinces meet. Having graduallyintegrated with the natives they finally became the “Hakkas” denoting peopledistinctive from the “natives”. Due to thefact that the plains with good environmenthad already been occupied by other Hansthe Hakkas could only settle down in thehilly areas of South Jiangxi Province,We s t F u j i a n P r o v i n c e , a n d E a s tGuangdong Province. Therefore, we maysay “every mountain has Hakkas whileevery Hakkas lived in a mountain”.

What we must point out is that not allHakkas are living in the clay buildingwhich is just one kind of Hakkas dwelling, but not the only residential form of theHakkas. Xie Zhongguang, a famousChinese scholar pointed out that theunca lc ined c lay bu i ld ings main lydistribute over some regions in South-west Fujian Province and Northeast

The tamping technology.

The clay building surrounded by mountains.

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111Guangdong Province. Such a kind of clay building,especially the round buildings can hardly be foundin other regions. This phenomenon is originatedfrom the geographic and cultural background ofthe above-mentioned areas.

Historically speaking, the Hakkas migratedfrom north to south or from west to east. Thus,

northwest part of west Fujian inhabited by theHakkas became the core area with Hakkasculture. The muliti-storied clay buildings,however, are rarely seen in this area. Only whenyou go southward can you nd a great deal ofclay buildings in the area where the Hakkas livedtogether with other ethnic groups. In the Mingand Qing dynasties, this area registered frequentghting with weapons between ethnic groups

caused by the acute ethnic disputes. Under sucha grim situation the Hakkas had been forced tochange their way of life while having moved intothe clay buildings with stronger defensefunctions. Thus, the conclusion can be drawnthat the architectural culture of the clay buildingis part of the brilliant Hakkas culture but not thetotal of it.

A Glimpse of Clay BuildingThe amazing impression at the rst glance

of the Minxi clay building is the giganticarchitectural volume of a building, which could be rarely seen among vernacular dwellings inother parts of China. The distinctive feature ofthe clay building is its simple body full ofgeometrical touch. Its body is usually in round

The distribution map of Hakkasin Western Fujian Province.

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112or square shape, and sometimes also in shapes of ellipse,the Eight Diagrams, half-moon, polygon. Moreover, theso-called “Five-Phoenix” building having a roof withstaggered eaves can be reckoned as the exception because

of its variations of shapes.Generally speaking, the clay buildings are two to

six-storied dwellings with a military defensive hue. Onthe walls of the rst oor there is no window at all,while on the walls of the second oor installed a li lenumber of small windows. So far as the arrangementsof architectural function, kitchen and dining room weregenerally placed on the rst oor; the storage roomswere on the second oor; while the bedrooms wereplaced on the third or higher oors. The base of wall is3 m thick; the wall of the rst oor is 1.5m thick, thethickness of the wall will reduce upward. Inside of theexterior walls, the space was partitioned into severalrooms with planks. The rooms were connected to thecorridors. In the central part were ancestral hall, privateschool or stage. Though the clay building was a veryclosed system, it was a place of unique a raction: all rooms

The magnicent round clay building group.

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storied building in the back, three four-storied buildings

in the left, right and front respectively. The four parts

form the shape of the Chinese character “ ” while there

were buildings also in the shape of the Chinese character

“ ” inside. Then the general arrangement of the

buildings was in a form of Chinese character “ ”.

The center of the building was a central hall while the

left and right wings of the front building were classrooms of a school.

The “round building” is the most famous Minxiclay building, it made the clay buildings hidden in themountains for several centuries famous to the outsideworld. The shapes of the round building can be divided

into the flat arrangement of monocycle, multi-ring andeven the circular linked with square. Multi-ring-structured building could be easily found, while theirplane is the concentric circle. The exterior structure isusually high while its internal structure is low. Thehall locates in the center of the whole building. It wasthe public place for weddings, funerals and othercelebrations. According to the incomplete statistics,there are more than 360 round buildings in theYongding County, among them including the oldest“Chengqi Building” with the most numerous circles;

The magnicent rectangle clay building. The front gate of Yijing Building.

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115the “ Shenyuan Building” with the longest diameter and“Rusheng Building” with the shortest diameter, etc.

Located at the Gaotou Township, Yongding County,

Chengqi Building’s scale is astonishing with itsdiameter about 73m long and circumference nearly229.34 m. The whole building has 400 rooms wheremore than 400 people of 60 households live. In 1981this building was listed in the Dictionary of China’s

Scenic Spots and was known as “king of clay building”.The plane arrangement of the “ Chengqi Building” is“a center with three circular structures”: the externalcircular structure has four storeys, 72 rooms each; thesecond circular structure has two storeys, 40 roomseach; while the third circular structure only has onestorey with 32 rooms; in the middle of the bui lding isthe ancestral hall.

The inner courtyard of

Yijing Building.

The typical multi-ring-structured

round clay building.

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116The “ Wufeng (five

phoenixes ) Building”is a special kind of clay building. Among theclay buildings, Wufeng Building is a kind of building most similar

t o t h e c o u r t y a r ddwelling of Northerna n d C e n t r a l C h i n a .Mainly situated at thecore a rea of Hakkascul ture , the Wu f e n g building is a derivativeof the quadrangle folk house of the central plainsin the special circumstance of Fujian Province

and has reflected the influence of the feudalethical code of the central plains.

The Chengqi Building having withessednumerous historical changes.

The typical multi-ring-structured round clay building.

The splendid Wufeng Building.

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117The typical structure of Wufeng Building ischaracterized by three halls accompanied with twohorizontal buildings with distinct axis, and the frontpart being low and the back part being high, whilefacing the Sun and with its back to the river. The threehalls are the lower hall, the central hall and the main building, the two horizontal buildings are the

rectangular architectures located at both sides of threehalls. Such a courtyard arrangement is similar to thatof the central plains. The mountain slope being highin the north and low in the south was chosen as the building site. Thus the whole architectural group

ascends from the south to the north. Viewing from thefront the roofs present many levels full of grandeur. Inthe areas where the Wufeng dwellings were built thefeudal ethics were widely spread among the people,who longed to get scholarly honor and official rankthrough reading books or obtain glory for the wholecommunity. The Wufeng Building sometimes is called“Dafuti -styled clay building” because a horizontal board

The roof of the Wufeng Buildingis like a phoenix spreading itswings.

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inscribed with three Chinese characters Da Fu Di was hanged on the gate of the building. Aside from the role of parading the distinguished status, this kind ofChinese characters was a metaphor for building owner’s ambition to long for highposition and wealth through imperial examinations.

The Fuyu building at Hongkeng Village of Hukeng Town in Yongding County is

a typical Wufeng Dwelling. The construction began in 1880 by three brothers of Linclan, this building occupied an area of 7000 M 2. The central axis of the Fuyu Dwellingis low in front and high in back; two horizontal buildings were arranged on bothwings of the principal building; in front of the building there are three gates. Judgingfrom its appearance, the principal building and the horizontal houses are wellcombined. The gate level ground and walls were paved or built with cobblestones.The buildings were ingeniously constructed and integrated with the surroundings.The exterior shape of the building is just like three mountains, which means that thethree brothers who owned the building were like the three magnicent mountains.

The Fuyu Building.

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119As for the clay buildings of other shapes, the plane arrangements are also colorful,for instance, the ellipse shape, the half-moon shape and the polygon shape, etc. Thebagua (The Eight Diagrams – eight groups of whole or broken lines used in divination.)

building is worth mention. It is not a simple eight diagrams, but contains the in-depthcultural symbol of the Chinese tradition. In the western part of Fujian Province, siteselection and location of the clay building could not be separated from the EightDiagrams; while some clay buildings copied the images of the Eight Diagrams. This

is the origin of the bagua dwelling. Some planes of the bagua building took the shapeof the standardized octagons, for instance, the “ Daoying Building”. But there werecircular-shaped bagua building while only its arrangement reected the ideas of theEight Diagrams. The “ Zhencheng Building” at the Hongkeng Village of Hukeng Townin Yongding County is the typical mode of this kind of clay building.

Newly established in 1912 by the brothers of the Lin clan, Zhencheng Buildingoccupied an area of 5000 m 2 while its at surface can be divided into the internalcircle and external circle. The outer ring building is a four-storied structure of theEight Diagrams (eight combinations with 6 rooms each, on each oor totaling 48

rooms) in circular shape: Eachgua

(combination) of six rooms is an independent unitwith a staircase. The gua s are separated by the re-sealing gables and connect byarch doors, which would be closed if one gua caught re. Then, the whole buildingcould escape the re. The inner ring building is a bi-level structure in which Westernarchitectural styles were applied. The introduction of Western culture could not beseparated from the owners of the buildings, the Lin clan enriched themselves inWestern countries and were deeply inuenced by the Western culture. The buildingis composed of one hall, two wells (symbolizing the Yin and Yang poles in the EightDiagrams), three gates (symbolizing the Heaven, Earthand human beings in the Eight Diagrams) and 8 units(Eight Diagrams). Viewing from the above-mentioned wecan nd that the builders adopted an original approach.Because Chinese and Western styles combined and theysupplemented and enriched each other, the building modeof Zhencheng Dwelling was sent to the World ArchitecturalFair, Los Angles of the United States, and was acclaimedas “oriental architectural pearl”.

The inner hall of Zhencheng Building, a perfectcombination of Chinese and Western architectural styles.

Comfortable and Harmonious Dwelling Prizing the Culture and Martial Art

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

120Tracing Back to the Source

After a glimpse at the charming colorful posture we cannot but thinking: what’sthe origin of these clay buildings? How could they evolve into present

images? This is a very complicated problem that many scholarshave divergent views. Their main views are as follows:

First, the basic feature of the clay building is the“living together ” of the whole clan, which is similar

to the traditional living way of the Hans in thecentral plains of China. The clay building was well

eq ui pp ed while beaming a clan atmosphere like a smallsoci ety. The head of the clan was chosen from the elders whosh ou ld be of noble character and high prestige. The flat surfaceo f t h e c l a y bu i ld ing i s charact e ri zed by symmetry w i th

explicit building centre while having reflectedstrong hierarchal ideas. Such a kind of arrangementembodied the patriarchal clan ideology while being in

line with the management and control of the conglomerated clan. In terms oftechnology, though a great deal of ramming technologies were applied, theconstruction of the clay building was not divorced from the timber-framed building system popular in the Central Plains, while it could be called a branchof architectural culture of the Chinese dwellings.

In spite of the fact that the ancestorsof the Hakkas were the Hans in theCentral Plains it was inevitable in the longprocess of their migration that their

culture including language, costume,living habits exchanged with the nativesin the southern part of China. The culturalvariation emerged in comparison with theorthodox culture of the Central Plains.Moreover, Many Hakkas settlementsformed the autonomous managementmodel like the minority nationalities – atrend of native-orientation. Although the

Hakkas claimed themselves as theThe mountain village relics distributed in Zhangzhou.

The wood structure systemof the clay building.

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121

descendants of the Hans, the central authorities always treated them as a minoritynationality, who were always called “southern barbarian”. In the course of sufferingfrom political oppression, military suppress and cultural bias, the Hakkas armedthemselves with strong consciousness of self-defense. Besides, the mix of localethnic groups led to uninterrupted conflicts and because of limited governmental

management many Hakkas could not but live in the fortified clay dwellings forsafety’s sake.

As for the emergence of the round clay building, Huang Hanmin who has studiedthe clay buildings for many years, pointed out that the round clay building could betraced back to the dwelling of Zhangzhou region of Fujian Province, near the MinxiHakkas-inhabited region. The Hakkas had learned building technologies from them.Therefore the round buildings were widely distributed over the west part and thesouth part of Fujian Province. Historically the Zhangzhou area was affected by chaosresulting from civil wars. Then the round castles or mountain villages situated onthe mountain tops emerged here and there and nally evolved into the round claydwellings. At the initial stage the Hakkas lived in the Wufeng Buildings, which weresimilar to the residential in the central plains. In the process of eastward migration,in other words, a�er they se led down at the juncture of three provinces, Fujian, Jiangxi and Guangdong and for the sakes of survival and security they had learnedthe constructing methods of the clay building of Zhangzhou area, their shapes ofresidence gradually simplied while its function of self-defense was strengthened,in other words, they had undergone the process from Wufeng dwelling to square building and nally to round building.

The Jinjiang Building in Zhangzhou region which looks like a blockhouse.

Comfortable and Harmonious Dwelling Prizing the Culture and Martial Art

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122Moreover, some scholars are inclined to explain the origin of the round building in

terms of cultural orientation. In their opinion, in order to seek lucky, safety and wealththe designer of the round building mixed the Eight Diagrams and diagram of theuniverse into the designs of the buildings, which nally evolved into the roundplane.

Intergrowth with the Human Affection and ReasonAside from prizing culture and encouraging martial spirits, the Minxi clay building

is characterized by Qingli (human affection and reason) which embodied the relationsof organic integration and close intergrowth between human beings and theenvironment. In this text Qing means perception while it pays more a ention to thehumanism, which extended as “mood concept in meaning”. Li means reason,emphasizing on material and technique, which may extend as ecological concept. InChinese traditional farming community, good mood was embodied in the warm andtender human relationships of the clan se lement; in the traditional clan consanguinityand neighborhood relationship which pay a ention to education and culture; in the

aesthetic viewpoint inclining to the destination of one’s life and harmony; and in theprizing of the moral conduct offeudalism. The good ecologicalconcept was embodied in thestructure of building reecting theecological balance and payinga t ten t ion to ear th and fores tprotection, etc.

With respect to the mood, the

people living in the clay buildingwere honest beings while theywere c lo se ly a s soc i a t ed w i th

solidarity and friendship and maintained the traditional clan g roup s ettlement.At the first s ight, the arrangement of the clay building was similar to the moderndormitory, but the buildings were beaming with close consanguinity and fratenalaffection with which the modern dormitory can hardly compare.

With respect to paying a ention to education and culture, the Hakkas haveinherited a good historical tradition, for instance, the numerous ancestral halls,

studies, horizontal inscribed-boards and calligraphies in the clay building are

The whole family live together, which is full of pleasure.

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123

The agreeable micro climate environment inside the clay building.

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124soundlessly telling us their fact. The Zhencheng Building with high cultural valuecould be a good example. Having adopted the ideas of the Eight Diagrams andEuropean architectural styles, the building had well combined the Chinese traditionwith Western styles, while inside the buildings were full of strong cultural atmosphere.For example, it was easy to nd couplets hung on the pillars of a hall and inscriptionsinside the Zhencheng building.

In terms of ecological protection, being

typical of the clay building, the Minxiclay building reflected the ecologicalideas that when human beingsd e v e l o p e d t h r o u g h f u l lutilization of natural resources,they should reduce the damageto the nature. The clay buildingswere built with clay but not br icks, thus the arable land

could be well protected; in otherwords, the building materials ofa clay building were drawn from theland, they would regress into the land. In themeantime, the thick clay walls had certain advantages such as high capacity forheat accumulation. Therefore the temperature in the clay building was delightfulin all seasons. The ring-shaped building arrangement formulated a big yard thatwas beneficial to wind-rising while the reasonable combination of doors,windows and corridors formulated a good climate environment. As a sayinggoes that “the clay building can not be burnt by fires and destroyed by thegunfire; it is difficult for bandits to enter and will not fall during the earth-quake”. In the perspectives of modern civilization the clay building really hasscientific reasoning and contains the simple ecological conception.

If the harmonious mode resulted from the clan harmony or family harmony; andif the external adaptability resulted from good interaction between human beingsand external environment, then, does the clay building’s intergrowth of affection andreason not only let people feel fresh and new but also add some new enlightenment?

by Yu Feng

The Huaiyuan Building in Nanjing County.

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9Magnificent and BeautifulDwellings

– A Description of Tibetan Watchtower

A History of Distant Source and Long Stream

Graceful and Colorful Forms of Tibetan Vernacular Dwellings

A Land of Bon and Buddhism

Homeland Harmoniously Developing with Heaven and Earth

A Living Picture Full of Grandeur

Tibet is situated at the snow-covered plateau with very clear azure sky and snow-covered peaks rising higher one a�er another. Here, Tibet is distinct not only for itsvigorous and mystical landscape but also for its magical Tibetan culture a racting thepeople. The geographic traits of the Tibet Plateau have given rise to peculiar humanlandscape and natural environment.

Tibet is called “roof of world”, because it is a plateau with the highest altitude in theworld. Tibet owns a wide variety of localized climates and distinct vertical climate zonesincluding high plateau frigid zone, sub-high plateau frigid temperate zone, hilly temperatezone, mountain sub-tropical and mountain tropical zones.

The national culture and diversied geographical environment and distinct climatein the snow-covered plateau of Tibet had given rise to majestic and glorious forms of theTibetan vernacular dwellings.

A History of Distant Source and Long StreamAbout 10,000 years ago there were human footprints on the Tibetan Plateau.

According to the archaeological survey all kinds of stone artifacts, bone implementsand po ery ranging from the Old Stone Age to the New Stone Age were excavated,

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126

which has proven that the Tibetan people had entered theNew Stone Age about 4,000 years ago. The Tibetanvernacular dwellings also saw a history of distant sourceand long stream. As early as 4,000-5,000 years ago, cave

dwellings or semi-cave dwellings or primitive villageappeared in Tibet. The excavation of the ruins of Karuoprimitive village in Changdu in 1975 has revealed theliving conditions of the Tibetan ancestors.

Nationalities including Tibetans, Monbas, Lhobas,Hans and Huis have lived on Tibet Plateau generationa�er generation among which Tibetans accounted for94.7%. The Monba nationality is one of the minoritynationalities living on Tibet Plateau since the ancient

The landform of the Lhasa River valley.

The landform of the Niyang River valley.

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127

times. Her name was derived from their livingplace of Menyu Area. The elevation of the MenyuArea is decreased from 4,000 odd meters to 1,000odd meters. In the 17 th century, some of the Monba

living in the Menyu area immigrated eastward toBaimagang (now Medog County). From then onthe inhabited region of the Monba nationality wascomposed of the eastern and western areas wheretwo different styles of Tibetan vernaculardwellings were engendered.

The Lhoba nationality composed of more than30 tribes are mainly living in the south of the bigturn of Yarlung Zangbo River. This area is called

Looking up at Mt Qomolangma from Rongbu Temple.

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

128Luoyu geographically. In the myths of the Lhoba people,their ancesters ever lived on trees or in the cavedwellings. Before the democratic reform in 1959 theLhobas still lived in a patriarchal stage of the primitivesociety. They lived together in line with blood lineagesof their tribe or family, which also caused a great impacton the distinct vernacular dwellings.

The distinct cultures of Tibetans, Monbas andLhobas fall into the same cultural category becausethey believed that they were all descendants of thedivine monkey and the rock demon in accordance withthe mystic tales. The three cultures are the integralparts of the culture of the snow land. Similar cultural backgrounds and mutual communications among themhad cultivated the same orientation of their dwellingstallying with the local condition such as climate and

topographies and in line with their religious beliefsand cultural habits.

Graceful and Colorful Forms ofTibetan Vernacular Dwellings

The watchtower, yak tent, earthhouse, wood house, bamboo houseand plateau cave, and so on haveenriched the shape of colorful folkhouses because of the vast territoryo f T i b e t P l a t e a u v a r i e d i ngeographical environment, climatefeatures and resources status. Interms of dwelling’s structure, theycan be divided into styles like earth building, stonework, compositestructure of earth, stone and wood,

The scene of dancing.

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129ganlan and Jinggan . Viewing from the forms of the dwellings, they can be classifiedas flat-roof folk house, sloping roof house and composite-roof house. The diversifiedTibetan vernacular dwellings distributed in different regions of Tibet have theirregional characteristics. For instance, the nomads of Northern Tibet mainly live inyak hair tents made from long coarse hair of the yak that is woven into strips bynomad women on back-strap looms. Generally speaking, the surface of the tent isin square or rectangle shape with a wood-supporting frame in a height of about two

meters with sloping roof covered with black yak hair carpets while four directionsare fixed on land with yak hair ropes. A crack about 15cm wide and 1.5m long onthe main ridge of the tent is specially designed for day-lighting, ventilating andletting out smoking. Along the crack hanging a number of small hooks which can be used to open or close the crack depending on the weather. The highland barley,

Magnificent and Beautiful Dwellings

The stone-built watchtower-style verracular dwelling.

The watchtower-style dwelling of nobleman.

butter bags and cow dung could beplaced on a wall 40-50 cm in height built with straw earth bricks or adobesinside the tent. One direction of the

tent has a door for people’s passing inand out; during the daytime, the doorcurtain will be opened; while the doorcurtain will be fastened at night so thatpeople inside the tent can enjoy theirleisure life. Near the door curtaininside the tent stands the stone fire pitand behind of the fire pit is the placefor worshiping Buddha images. Such

a yak hair tent made from the coarsehair of the yak is suitable to a nomadicpastoral mode of production. They can be easily taken down and put up whenmoving camp. They keep out the rainand snows.

Another most common dwellingis watchtower, which is built fromearth or stone. It is usually called

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130watchtower because it is shaped like a fort.

The watchtower was usually two or three-storeyed building with stone exteriorwalls. The watchtowers for noblemen, slave owners and rich merchant were theconstructions of more than three storeys, while the highest one even reached to fivestoreys. The plane of a watchtower was assembled with the column grid as its unitto form square rooms. In the plane, a big room was located at outside while twosmall rooms were constructed inside, the staggered rooms form an overlapping

structure. Its structural system was a composite structure with walls made of timberand stone and columns of timber. One living room had one column, which waslocally called “an umbrella” while the floors were paved with planks; the sun-driedmud bricks were 40-80 cm thick while the thickness of the stone walls would extendto 50-80 cm. The interior walls were kept in vertical posture while the exterior would

The watchtower-style dwelling with one yard.

The single-oor vernacular dwelling with one yard.

be inclined to entasis. Theground floor of the watchtowerwas mainly used for animal breeding or for storage. Thesecond or third floor was forpeople to l ive , whi le the balcony or sani tary roommade from woods on thesecond floor was cantilevered.The sunny exposure of a building always had a bigwindow or down-to-f loorglass windows, which hadadvantages of good day-lighting. Moreover, windowshad advantages of keeping thewind or cold in check, andmaking the rooms warm inwinter and cool in summer because they were opened tothe courtyard. Flat roof madeof compacted weathered earth

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131was commonly used for the roofing of a watchtower, while personal effects could bask on the roof balcony.

In the courtyard of the one-coutyard watchtower usually laid a well and plantedwith owers. The thick walls of buildings or courtyard were mainly for defense. Thereis usually a small yard for daylighting. A large-scale watchtower has many rooms, ahigh watchtower in 20-30 meters was for keeping valuables or for looking into thedistance in defense ba le. The shapes of the watchtowers varied in different regions.

The vernacular dwellings of Lhasa were two or three-storeyed tetrastoa. Of coursethere were also independent bungalows . The opening bed room with side corridorwas the common structure of vernacular dwellings in Shan’nan Prefecture becausethe people there prefer outdoor exercises.

Many ethnic nationalities are living in the forest area of the southeast Tibetwhere there are numerous types of folk house. This area is abundant in environmentresources while almost all main plant species from tropical to the frigid zones ofnorthern hemisphere can be found here. People like to live in the folk house witha double-slope roof. In the forest area people prefer to live in the detached dwellings

or one-courtyard houses. Most of the architectures are three-storied buildings. Thefirst floor was used for animal breeding, the second floor was the dwelling spacecomposed of living room(also served as kitchen), storage room, side corridor andtoilets. The living room was separated into two parts by planks. In the middle partof the outer living room stood the fire pit (near the window) surrounded by bedsand other furniture. The pediment space under the sloping roof on the third floorwas used for storage of straw, fodder, odds and ends like a garret. The buildingswere constructed with wood frame. The construction materials included crushedstone, rag-stone, cobblestone, rammed earth, plank, bamboo fence and wicker fence,etc. The pitched roof uses wood girders and rafters placed on the gable, while inthe forest area the roofing was usually covered with wood tiles with heavy stoneson them to prevent the wood tiles from being lifted by the strong wind. In the areaof shale mountain, the roofs were covered with shale ti les against rains.

In the dense forest area of the southeast Tibet the wood houses of Monbas andwood and bamboo houses of Lhobas set each other off. The wood houses of Monbaswere built upon the tableland facing the valley. The house is off the ground andsupported by many columns with 1.5-2 meters open space for animal breeding inthe lower part. The upper part of the house was mainly designed for people’s living

Magnificent and Beautiful Dwellings

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132and storage. The living room in the middle on thesecond oor has a small passage hall connected to theouter corridor. The two wings of the living room werestorage houses. Almost all the building material fromwalling and ooring to roong were woods, people cango upstairs or downstairs through the wood stairs. Thedetached dwellings of the Monbas usually have no walls

surrounding them. The stone houses of Cuona Countyand the wood houses of Medog County belong to thefolk house having no courtyard walls and formvillages.

The Lhobas have two kinds of distinct traditionaldwellings. One is called long house, while the other isa small square dwelling. The long house, a uniquedwelling is the embodiment of the primeval social formof the Lhoba tribe. The length of long house o�en

reached several scores of meters. The long house forfemale to live in was always built on the outside of avillage. Planks and bamboo mats were used to separatethe long house into ten or several scores of living rooms.The long house for male to live in was o�en constructedin the middle of a village. Its interior space was notseparated, which was a place for discussing the publicaffairs. The small square dwelling was the couple’sdwelling which was a symbol of Lhoba family and wassurrounded by warehouses. The raw timber oftenserved as the building materials of the long house orsmall square dwelling. The wall of the living room wasmade of logs. There are wood columns for supportingat the lower part of the house while its upper part iscovered with plantain leaves roof.

The bamboo house of the Lhobas is in the shape ofrectangle, about 6 m wide and 9 m long. A door waslocated at its entrance while windows were built on

The wood vernacular dwelling in Southeast Tibet.

The vernacular dwelling in Gongbu of Southeast Tibet.

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133the opposite wall for ventilation. The bamboo house was built upon the stonefoundation with a wood column every two meters, while double-skin bamboo clapperswere used between columns as the wall body. The roof was also covered with bambooclappers. Except for the oor, girders and column, the whole house was made of bamboos.In front or back of the bamboo house was always a ached with standing grain storage.

In the valley plains of Nagri Prefecture of western Tibet the folk house is mainlya detached construction with wood frames. The majority of the vernacular dwellingsare two-storied buildings. The rst oor is the living place in winter while the secondoor is for people to live in summer. The vernacular dwellings adjacent to the footof a rocky mountain are mainly the combination of caves and houses. The house infront and the cave in the back form an integral residential. The plane of the caves inNagri Prefecture is in square, circle or rectangle shapes. Among them, square cave2m to 2.2m high is more popular. The cave dwelling is a rare living abode in the TibetPlateau.

The villas or estate of nobl emen are special kind of plateau dwellings . A villa

was usually composed of principal building and front courtyard. The plane was

in shape of Chinese character “ ”with a yard in the middle. The front courty ardwas a two-storied building, while to the north of the front courtyard stood the

three-storied principal building. The rooms of the principal building are bright

with French window in the south. In t he villa there were living rooms and recept ion

room of the noblemen, family hall for worshipping Buddha, and a lot of functional

rooms for hired laborers or storage. Along with the emergence of estate economy

appeared a number of

f a m o u s e s t a t e

b u i l d i n g s . T h e

principal building of an estate is as high as

five stories while it is

luxurious with garden

s u r r o u n d i n g i t a n d

has complete defense

s y s t e m i n c l u d i n g

walls, ditches, and so

o n , i t a l s o h a d t h eThe summer villa of Dalai Lama in Norbulingka.

Magnificent and Beautiful Dwellings

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134

pr ison for punishing serfs .

The colorful types of the dwellingin the land of snow are not xed modelof dwellings of certain area or certainnationality. With the communicationand mutual influences between theregions and nationalities every kind of

vernacular dwelling had somethingmingled with each other and has madesome variations, which gave rise to amixture of different styles of building.The splendid culture in the land ofsnow has been enriching the culture ofneighboring regions. And the colorfulforms of the dwelling in Tibet had at r e m e n d o u s i n f l u e n c e o n t h e

architectural style of the Tibetan folkdwellings in other areas of China.

The vernacular dwelling of Tibetan people in Yunnan Province.

The divine mountain: Mt. Namjagbarwa.

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135

A Land of Bon and BuddhismReligions once spread throughout the land of snow

where all nationalities were religious believers. Somefollowed the Bon, the native religion of the Plateau whileothers were the believers of Tibetan Buddhism.

According to Bon religion all things on earthare sentiment beings. The universe, totem, ghosts

and gods and witchcraft were worshiped by theTibetan ancestors while the mountains, rivers,forest, birds and beasts as well as the naturalphenomena were venerated by the people of theland of snow. The origins of stone piles, “Siba”sacrificial song and mask of Tibeta n Opera can betraced to religious ceremonies or sacrifices-offeringof the Bon religion. The legends of holy mountain,sacred water and sacred stone came from t he Bon

teachings. The standing stone and hada.

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136Since the middle of the 7th century when Buddhism was introduced into

the Tibet Plateau through the central plains and India, it encountered fierceopposition from the Bon lasted for three hundred years. In the course ofconflicts, Buddhism had absorbed the gods and ceremonial rites of the Bonwhile the latter borrowed the teaching from Buddhism. Upon this base,Tibetan Buddhism – a combination of Buddhism and Bon was born. In contrastto the Buddhism prevailed in other regions of Chi na, Tibetan Buddhism was

characterized by regional and nationality traits. The sediment of Bon religionon Tibetan psychology and customs gave the contents of natural worship tothe Tibetan Buddhism.

The deep religious belief can nd expression in the construction of the vernaculardwelling, as well as their communal activities. For instance, a small pagoda o�enstood at the entrance or at center of a village while the symbols of Buddhist meaningwere decorated on the exterior of the vernacular dwelling. The existence of religiousculture can easily be found in village dwelling, selection of construction sites, externalappearance of dwelling and interior environment in the land of snow. In these areas,

vernacular dwellings were the places where human being and gods live together.The Buddhist images surrounded by incense burner , ritual implement and Tangka painting

scroll with Buddhist tales and teachings stand on the important position facing the sun in the

principal room of the vernacular building. On the column caps, beams, walls and top of the

kitchen range as well as sleeping cushions, small square tables, Tibetan cabinets etc. were

decorated with painting of religious themes. All utensils for daily life such as sitting cushions,

cups and drinking vessels were painted with religious motifs including the eight precious

pattern designs: treasured umbrella, goldsh, ower vase, lotus ower, right white spiral

snail, auspicious knot, victorious ag, golden wheel

and the auspicious character “ ”. In Buddhism, the

motifs of Mandala symbolizing universal order and

universal geometric projection were carved on

boards, agstones and metal plates hanging on the

walls of the dwelling.

The exterior ornaments of the building likeyak horn, religious drawing and mirrors,symbolizing the Totem or praying to God forgood luck were hanging on the entrance gate of

The vernacular dwelling and the prayer ag.

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building or courtyard. Some accessories of the buildingreected that Tibet people were devout Buddhists. Intheir eyes the rustle of the long narrow ag in wind waslike reciting scripture, which could bless the safety of

the family. Therefore it is easy to nd the ags on thefour corners and the upper ridge of the dwelling, while bluestone relief sculpture of Buddha image and thewhite stone inscribed with six sounds of the sacredBuddhist prayer were placed on window sill, fourcorners of the house or walls of the courtyard. In thereligious beliefs of the Tibetans, color might serve as areligious emblem. For instance, red represents gods witha hot temper, white represents gods with a lenient

Tangka Painting.

Goldsh, one of “the eightprecious patterns”.

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138character while yellow and gold symbolize the Buddhism and the Kingdom of Heaven.The color selection and application of the walling, co on curtain and structural parts ofthe vernacular dwelling were permeated with the signicance of worshipping andreligious beliefs.

In a compact community, the entranceand center of the village were the importantplaces where high white prayer ags were

set up and pagodas were built. Thus theplaces for daily religious activities wereformed. Wheel-praying is a basic way ofself-cultivation of Tibetan Buddhism,while turning the prayer wheel from le�to right clockwise is a Buddhist practice.

Chains of rotary wheel for people to

turn were arranged around a pagoda.It was very interesting to x the prayerwheels in the village. Inside of opensmall houses erected at river mouth orinside a village nearly always installedthe prayer wheels propelled by theflowing stream water, while prayerwheels moving day and night was blessing the peace and security of bothpeople and village.

The worship for natural spirits likemountains or rivers can easily ndexpression in the sense of the site-selection and the construction of thefolk houses. For instance, according toLhoba’s tradition of construction siteselection, three grains of unhusked

The village dwellings which are cosy and in harmony with nature.

The prayer ags at the entrance of the village.

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139rice representing three kinds of domestic animals such as yak, pig and chicken weremixed with more unhusked rice corresponding to the number of family member,which formed three pinches of unhusked rice; The three pinches of unhusked ricewould be separately placed on three well-chosen sites and covered with branchesand slabstones a�er the sunset. Before the sunrise of the next day people would goto see whether the grains of the unhusked rise dispersed or mixed with ants, whichwas taken as bad omen. If the grains of unhusked rice were kept in good condition,this meant that an excellent site suitable to dwelling construction had been found.And a series of rites for house construction would begin.

Homeland Harmoniously Developing with Heaven and EarthHeaven which controls rainy and ne seasons, bi er cold and hot, as well as wind,

forest, rain and snow is the life of the vernaculardwelling; earth which comprises mountains and river,rising and falling of vast territory, timbers and stones is

the root of folk house, while the foundation of theconstruction of vernacular dwelling is people who labor,live and multiply on this land.

The styles of the vernacular dwelling of the snow landwere closely related to the geographic environment,weather conditions, communal se lement, way of life,available building materials and mastery of constructiontechnology, which originated from seeking for comfortable

The vernacular dwellings in the village are harmonious with the mother earth.

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140living and a common view of the natural environment. With the common view of theshelter for their survival, standing between the Heaven and the Earth while being mingledwith them, the Tibetan dwelling had became the material and spiritual homelandcoexisted with natural environment.

The styles of the Tibetan dwelling were closely relevant to the naturalenvironment. In terms of dwelling’s shape, the roofing shape reflected varyingamount of the rains; the walling thickness reflected the variation of temperature;

the openness or closeness of the distribution told people the conditions ofsunshine or wind blowing while the stocky and graceful styles reflected thecharacteristics of geographic environment. Being situated on the land of snowthe fire pit inside the principal room was the living center, which reflected thatTibetans were seeking for more comfortable life. The main ways of productionon the land of snow were nomadic roving, agricultural tilling and hunting withclose relationship to the natural resources, which has a great impact on thestructure of the Tibetan dwelling reflecting the harmonious relation betweenhuman beings and nature.

The use and obtain of building materials in Tibet were in line with the principleof convenience and least economic cost.The building materials of the Tibetan dwelling could be easily taken from the

natural environment. The Tibetan dwellings were characterized by obtaining rawmaterials locally. With the corresponding technical processing, the Tibetan dwellingswere built from the indigenous building materials while they look like somethinggrown out of the natural environment. In terms of the color modeling the Tibetandwellings used the color combinationsof the natural color of natural materialsincluding yellow of the earth, green ofthe stone, dark blown of timbers,which reflected the harmoniousrelationship between the Tibetandwellings and natural environment.

The Tibetan dwellings built withnatural materials and colors are like theproducts of nature. In terms ofmeasurement, texture and color the

The natural color of vernacular dwelling.

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environmental individuality of the Tibetan dwelling was full exploited to theextremity.

The majority parts of the land of snow are areas full of rising and falling mountains belonging to dry and semi-dry territory and arid climate of abundant sunshine and big temperature gap between day and night but not abundant in forest resources.

The stone watchtowers with plane roofs and rammed clay buildings weredistributed over the above areas. The thick and heat-preservation walls wereconstructed with earth and stones in multiple ways. The essential tone of the Tibetandwelling was the natural color of the earth and stone walls and white of wall coat.In the radiant and enchanting sunlight and under the stainless blue sky stood stillthe stocky stone watchtower and rammed clay building amid the mountains, whichhad integrated with the natural environment.

The vernacular dwelling rooted on the earth and near the sky.

Magnificent and Beautiful Dwellings

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Chinese Vernacular Dwelling

142The forest region along the Yarlung Zangbo River of southeast Tibet are

characterized by deep gorges covered with dense forest and hot and damp climate.Among the green trees and bamboos stood the wood or bamboo houses with pitchedroofs. On the slope land against the mountains and facing the sun stood the light andgraceful wood houses, whose opening and empty shape could blow away the sultryand damp air with the aid of strong valley wind while the broad roofs of dwellingcould protect the wall from erosion by rain. The ganlan and log houses in the forest

areas could live together with natural environment relying upon the rich natural building material and waterproofed material like leaves of Chinese banana trees. The bamboo sea spreading all over the mountains and valleys in Luoyu area producesmore than bamboo. The high-yield bamboo output has provided the Lhobas abundant building materials for the construction of their dwellings. In the forest areas ofSoutheast Tibet light and graceful wood and bamboo houses rising against skystanding amid the green forest and graceful bamboo sea formed a beautiful dwellingenvironment.

A Living Picture Full of GrandeurThe mystical and fascinating land of snow a racts the people with its blue skies,lo�y snow-covered mountains, vast grassland, whistling rivers and surging lakes…and the sunlight less forest area of the Southeast Tibet is intertwined with gorges andgreen forest and grass while being decorated with waterfalls and ying clouds.

The character of Tibetan people has been nurtured while people’s temperamenton the plateau has been molded by the shape, line and color of the naturalenvironment.

The cultural soul of the Tibetan

people is originated from their religious beliefs, emotion, ideals and the livingcustoms while the peculiar individualityof the people on the plateau was molded by the human and natural environments.In the hearts of Tibetan people theiradoration of magnicent mountains andriver, their cherishment of l ife onparadise, their pursuit for the beautiful

A village settlement in Lang County.

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The village beside the terrace.

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