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Scour after Setting.Weight Reduce for light silk styles.
Dye the fabric in jet machine.
Wash off well in jet.
Pad finish, dry and Cure with mild Set.
x
Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing
Process Overview 3.1Textured 1
Textured fabrics
: are produced by blending filaments with different shrinkage. “MICROPILE”
“MICROLOOPS”
Process Conditions : elimination of the Pre Heat Setting step allows full development of the micro loops of filament.
“Micromattique MX” from Invista
Yarn => 135 d / 200 f 175 filaments @ 0.5 dpf 34 filaments @ 2 dpf
“Maximum body and softness.”
Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing
Process Overview 3.2Textured 2
Micropile effects may also be achieved by varying the structure of the fibre . Differential texturising and control of crystallinity can lead to differential shrinkage properties.
Caution : Different fibre denier and types create shade variations. This may create desirable effects, or…..
NEARGAL HP-MF New and high temperature dyeing helps with polyester.
Invista’s nylon 6.6 ‘Tactel’ Ispira.
Differential shrinkage filament, that gives texture and shading effects.
Warp lines from unequally textured polyester filament can show
after dyeing, and can be a difficult problem to solve.
Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing
Process Overview 3.3Textured 3
Different fibre denier and types can create various effects.- differential depth of shade. - differential sheen or lustre.- textured effects.
The yarn can be used in fashion goods to create unusual colouration effects, with reasonable control.
Invista ‘Strata’ polyamide.
This type of yarn is mixed in denier and shape leading to potential texture and colourationeffects.
Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingNotes on Short Process
Heat setting before scouring causes scorching, and the setting of oils into the fabric. As microfibres have a high loading of process aids, this can be a real problem.
These aids may be difficult to remove Silicone oils, sizes, waxes, and mineral oil from knitters and looms.
Process Overview 4.2
This problem is worst with :- very fine fibres due to the high oil content.- cotton blends the cotton yellows and absorbs oils from
For Scouring. Builds up the effectiveness of the detergent. Strong sequestering power to remove metals. Extraction of magnesium from Elastane. Gives high whiteness on bleaching. Stabilises bleach liquor when padding.
For Dyeing. Stable to high temperatures. Minimises dye aggregation for best dispersion.
SCOURING 3
Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingObjectives of MICRO-FIBRE HEAT SETTING
1. Control shrinkage during wet processing.2. Reduce creasing, abrasion and crows feet marksContamination may be burnt into the fabric.
The strength of setting may be measured by the Heat Set Efficiency (HSE).
HEAT SETTING 1
HSE = Final Width After Dyeing = FW Heat Set Width HSW
Many microfibre fabrics are dyed without pre heat setting, to allow the full development of shrinkage during wet processing.
Silk styles 185 oC x 30” Active sportswear 180 oC x 30”
or maybe No pre setting. Textured styles No pre setting.
Cationic Dye types 165 oC x 30”
HEAT SETTING 2
Follow your fibre supplier’s recommendation !!Using a Steam Frame or Steam Table before setting,
can give some relaxation effect without a wet process.This may be beneficial in shortening the process path.
Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingHEAT SETTING CONDITIONSUse of Auxiliary.
HEAT SETTING 3
The Pad application of Auxiliaries can help reduce scorching and setting of oils during pre-heat setting.
The use of a padding application before pre-set also allows some movement and relaxation of the fibres.
Maximum Heat Set Efficiency is achieved.
Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing
LUBRIFIL LAF A problem solver.
An anionic multipurpose product.
HEAT SETTING 4
Detergent Emulsifies and restrains oil from burning into fabric.Cleans during subsequent wet processing.Disperses particles including dyes, dust and fibres.
AnticreaseLubricating effect helps to maximise the HSE. (Less return.)Carries over into the dye bath and continues as an anticrease.
Ideal for Heat Setting elastane and all types of micro-fibre fabrics.
Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing
NAISTAT 1350 The POLYESTER friend.
A fine dispersion of polymer.(Please refer to Finishing later.)
HEAT SETTING 5
Detergent Scavenges and restrains oil from polyester and elastane.Cleans during scouring, after heat set. Anti-redeposition.
AnticreaseLubricating effect helps to maximise the HSE. (Less return.)Carries over into the dye bath and continues as an anticrease.
Ideal for Heat Setting polyester elastane and microfibre.
Helps reduce scorching of elastane by a protective film.
Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing
NEARCAND LT 75 The Anti-scorch.
A nylon substantive antioxidant.
HEAT SETTING 6
NEARCAND LT 75 adsorbs rapidly onto nylon or amide- likesubstances to form an antioxidant film. This reduces the scorching of nylon and elastane polymers, and limits yellowing of softeners as high temperatures.
Used for Heat Setting, Finishing or Wet Bleaching of nylon and nylon blends.
Ideal for Heat Setting elastane and nylon fabric.
Low dose required : 1 to 3 % owf.Needs to be dispersed or dissolved hot before application.
Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing
Some RECIPES. 65% Pick up.
HEAT SETTING 7
Nylon Polyester TC
25-30 g/l -- -- -- 15 g/l -- -- 10 - 20 g/l
NEARCAND LT 75NAISTAT 1350LUBRIFIL LAF
Maximum settling of fibres for optimum Heat Set, scorch protection, easier cleaning and trouble free dyeing.
=> Less distortion and better dyeing and finishing.
Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing NEARPON KR See Scouring 2
Developed for removing Silicone oils, ideal for elastomerics. Recommended by Dupont.
Powerful Green Scouring Detergent for all oils.
NEARCHEL TMC Powerful High Temperature sequesterant. Bleach Stabiliser, Cotton Protector and Whiteness Booster.
BLEACHING
Suggested Cotton-Microfibre bleach after Heat Set . @ 110 0C x 20’
Traditional Imitation Silk Made with ‘fine’ polyester filament that is reduced in size and weight by the process of Weight Reduction, (WR).
Typically, filaments of 1.2 to 2.0 dpf are used, with the final fibre size depending on the structure and required features.
Imitation Silk
Imitation silks can now be achieved through use of Microfibre technology, without the need for WR.
Weight reduction is still applied to Microfibre fabrics, to achieve additional handle benefits.The finer dpf leads to - more open weave with reduced stiffness and improved drape.- enhancement of differential dpf properties like lofted yarns.- splitting or shocking of “conjugate” fibres to Microfibres.
% Reduction in Weight can be theoretically calculated.
2 equivalents of NaOH break up one ester monomer unit. Molecular weight of 2 x NaOH = 80 Molecular weight of ester monomer = 192 Machine factors must be used in practice. = ‘f’
So, %WR = 192 x %NaOH (owf) x f 80
For Pad applications, the pick-up must be accounted for.
(& when ready to give up, add ..) NEARPON KR 0.3 g/l
The WR process creates a rough semi-porous fibre surface, which can trap large amounts of surface dye. The high surface area alone
creates wash fastness problems for microfibres.
Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingTEXTURE from SHRINKAGEThe differential shrinkage of microfibres provides the potential for novel texture effects.
Additional Loft. “Micromattique XF”Peach Skin effect. Medium shrink.Suede effects. High shrink.Emerising and Brushing of these fabrics.
Texture Modification 1.1 Emerising 1
EMERISINGRaising the “microloops” created by differential shrinkage, creates a fullness and warmth in the fabric.
Emerising is usually done before dyeing, to reduce shade variation, but may be carried out after dyeing on light shades.
Microfibres can form high density woven fabrics that :- block wind effectively, but allow vapour to diffuse through.- allow easy barrier coverage. (Polyurethane or Fluorocarbon.)- maintain appealing drape and handle characteristics.
Texture Modification 2 Air Permeable Water Proofs
BARRIER
Fluorocarbon Repellant. Applied as a standard finish and cured.and / or
Polyurethane solution. The application is made from a volatile solvent (DMF, MEK) which is boiled off
to leave a porous film. (The film is gas permeable but repels water.)
Hoechst ‘Trevira’
Akzo ‘Sympatex’ & ‘Sportex’
Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingVISCOSE BLENDS Light with excellent drape.High Twist Polyester and Nylon Microfibres blended with Viscose :- much reduced shrinkage.- anticreasing and dimensional stability properties.- tensile strength and durability.
Imitation Effects Microfibre enhancement
COTTON BLENDS Enhanced TC properties.
Polyester Microfibre staple blended with cotton for shirting :- enhanced softness and drape.- enhanced moisture absorbency.- added warmth.
WORSTED BLENDS Durability
Multi false twisting and air texturising on warp/weft blends producesinterlaced (structured) fabrics. These are similar to the felting on worsted and woollen fabrics. Microfibre Suits are available !
Microfibres naturally have appealing ‘handle’ features.
• High softness, greater than cotton or conventional polyester.• High degree of drape and fluidity, (this varies with structure).• High surface smoothness, (mainly unbrushed filament fabric).• Moisture transport that aids coolness and comfort.Microfibres should be finished according to the requirements for the outlet.
(Suitable where a stenter does not have a pad mangle.)
Cool to 40°C, adjust pH if required.Add softener eg : NEARFINISH MR JET 2%Hold 40°C x 20 min.Drop and hydro-extract.Stenter Finish as below.
2. Pad Softener.
(A general process.)
Set Stenter frame for width control.Pad softener @ ~ 60% PU . eg : NEARFINISH M88 30 g/lDry @ ~ 120oC x 30”Heat Set Finish at correct tension @ 160 - 190 oC x 30”
NEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/lHot rinse againFinish by exhaust @ 80oC
NAISTAT 1350 4% owf
Dry @ 120oC then Set at 160oC x 40’.
Heat Set improverOil Scorch Protector
Silicone & Set oil Scour system
Dispersing and Washing system.
Dispersing, Levelling and Sequestering.
Soft hydrophilic, soil releaseantistatic finish.
Desize / Scour & Relax
Pre Heat Set
Dye
Finish with Dry Mild Set
Normal Process
RC
Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingThe Products The Process The AdvantageNEARFIL FAC Dearation No foam wetting. LUBRIFIL LAF Heat Setting Efficient & Antiscorch