NEW: FOLLOW US ON TWITTER OCTOBER 22-23 LONG BEACH | CALIFORNIA, USA indoorgardeningexpo.com www.maximumyield.com INDOOR GARDENING EXPO PHOTOSYNTHESIS WHY IT MATTERS FORCING THE BLOOM BLOOMING TO THE EXTREME (10 STEPS) THE BATTLE OF WATER MANAGEMENT PUSHING CO 2 FEAST YOUR PLANTS ON THIS FREE
Hydroponics gardening resources by Maximum Yield, a free how-to hydroponics gardening and indoor gardening bi-monthly magazine that is distributed internationally through stores that retail hydroponics gardening products.
This document is posted to help you gain knowledge. Please leave a comment to let me know what you think about it! Share it to your friends and learn new things together.
Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort. Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/consultants.htm and www.suntec.co.nz/books.htm for more information.
Grubbycup has been an avid indoor gardener for over 20 years. His articles were first published in the United Kingdom, and since then his gardening advice has been published in French, Spanish, Italian, Polish, Czechoslovakian and German. He is also considered one of the world’s leading authorities on crochet hydroponics.
Lee McCall is an alumnus of Johnson & Wales University. His extensive culinary background helped him gain experience in and knowledge of fine dining and food production, which developed into a career in the hydroponics and year-round gardening industry. Lee and his business partner use their Denver-based businesses to educate the public on sustainable gardening and high quality produce.
Matt LeBannister developed a green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced gardeners. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented leading companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007. His articles are published around the world.
CONTRIBUTORS
Become a Maximum Yield contributor and have your articles read by 250,000 readers throughout USA, Canada, UK, New Zealand and Australia. Maximum Yield is the largest free-to-consumer indoor gardening magazine in the world. Every issue is available on maximumyield.com, which has thousands of unique visitors monthly.
FROM THE EDITOR | JESSICa RaymOND
Bentley Mills owns Georgia-based FloraHydroponics. He operates a one acre commercial hydroponic greenhouse where he grows produce using deep pool floating raft technology. Bentley’s background in horticulture began while managing Micro Macro International (MMI). Bentley can be contacted at [email protected]
Dr. J. Benton Jones Jr. has 50 years of experience growing plants hydroponically. He is an Emeritus Professor at the University of Georgia, Athens and has authored eight books and written articles for magazines that deal with hydroponic issues. He currently has his own consulting company, Grosystems, Inc. Dr. Jones currently lives in Anderson, SC, USA.
Dr. Ed Harwood is founder and chief executive officer of AeroFarms. Ed previously served as associate director of Cornell Cooperative Extension for Agriculture. Prior to that, Ed served as CEO of Topline Waikato, Inc.
Philip McIntosh is a science and technology writer with a bachelor’s degree in botany and chemistry and a master’s degree in biological science. During his graduate research he used hydroponic techniques to grow axenic plants. He lives in Colorado Springs, CO. where he teaches mathematics at Challenger Middle School.
Peter Jordan has a degree in chemical engineering from the University of Waterloo. He began his career at Dupont Canada as a Management Scientist. Later, at Statistics Canada he designed the systems for processing Canada’s largest annual census. He founded Microstar Software Ltd., and upon selling the company in 1999, became involved with preserving groundwater resources.
Shane Hutto is a technical advisor at Grodan Inc. He earned a bachelor’s degree in horticulture at Oklahoma State University and received a research assistantship for his master’s degree. During his graduate studies he researched production and extraction of surface waxes on horticultural commodities. His passion for growing is complimented by his experience in many types of controlled environment operations and design.
Wow, where has the summer gone? We’re now full speed into fall and coming up to the year’s biggest ever Indoor Gardening Expo in Long Beach, California (October 22 to 23, 2011). With over 250+ booths and over 125 unique exhibitors (over 15 companies are first time exhibitors at our show) the size of this expo exceeds that of the San Francisco Expo this past July. Check out the Long Beach floor plan and list of exhibitors in this issue, along with the many new products that will be showcased at the event. This expo will give you the latest tools to grow your best garden so make plans now to attend the Long Beach Expo 2011.In the mean time, you have in your
hands an issue overflowing with the latest news and tips for bigger yields. We invite you to explore and discover
why photosynthesis matters; how to grow a gargantuan tomato; the benefits of automation; how the world’s lead-ing architects are building impressive vertical farms; and more! Share this issue with your friends, chat with us
on Facebook and Twitter, and send us your questions and comments. We love to hear from you, and we love to be your favorite source for the best indoor gardening tips and trends.Enjoy this issue!
We want to hear from you!Write us at:Maximum Yield Publications Inc.2339 Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9or e-mail us at: [email protected]
LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
Homegrown HydroponicsThanks to Maximum Yield and its contributors for the helpful infor-mation and great articles. I am new to hydroponics and gardening and I believe I have found a new passion and lifestyle to enjoy! Over the summer I harvested a variety of tomatoes. I’m looking forward to my jalapenos and anything else I may grow. The goal now is to never have to buy veggies.
Thanks againAngel Bueno
maximum yields in wasHingtonI see great potential for an Indoor Gardening Expo in Seattle, Everett or in the surrounding area. The indoor gardening revolution is com-ing on strong in our area and we need more garden expo love on a large scale. Just something for you to dwell on. And Seattle is home to some of the wealthiest people in the world. I really appreciate the information your magazine offers. It has given me the ability to produce maximum yields.
ThanksRandy Surdyk
run, don’t walk, to your nearest Hydroponic sHopThank you for such a well thought out and put together magazine. You guys and gals are doing a great job and yours is the only maga-zine I read from cover to cover each month; when I can get a hold of a hard copy, I keep it for reference. I’m so glad that your Long Beach Expo is not the same weekend as the Long Beach Marathon this year. I organize all the volunteers for the marathon and last year you were in the very next room at the Convention Center on Saturday and Sunday; it killed me that I couldn’t make it next door to spend some time walking around, learning and meeting everybody. I have been growing hydroponically for 25 years indoors and am thinking about doing some growing outdoors next year in hydro. Thanks again for all your hard work; it sure shows every month when I get to read the next issue.
ThanksBob AlbrightLong Beach, California
Angel with his hybrid DWC tomato
ammonia for plants – dangerous or Beneficial?I love your magazine and online information, but cannot locate a search box, so I will just ask. I thought I read an article in your maga-zine regarding using ammonia in the garden. Do you recall what ammonia is used for? I bought a gallon of it, and cannot decide what to do with it. I don’t want to destroy my greenhouse plants. I put a little ammonia in a spray bottle, and lightly sprayed the dirt on two planters in the greenhouse, hoping any spiders would scram; and they did. I have been keeping an eye on those plants and so far they show no ill effects, except for one low leaf is turning yellow, which I removed. Thank you for replying to my little inquiry. I appreciate it.
ThanksSharon Calabrese
Ammonia does have a place in the garden. Ammonia can be diluted and used as a fertilizer. A quarter cup of ammonia per gallon of wa-ter can be mixed, and the plants can be sprayed with this solution once per week. When ammonia breaks down it releases nitrates, a source of nitrogen. This should only be used on alkaline-loving plants such as sweet peas and asparagus because ammonia is very alkaline. It will actually damage acid-loving plants such as tomatoes. Many types of ammonia contain other ingredients intended only for cleaning and will not be safe for your plants. A safer alternative to using ammonia would be to use pine tree oil or kelp spray. These products can be applied safely to a wide range of plants.
Ammonia can also be used to battle mildew growing on soil or on the plant itself. Use the same concentration as mentioned above and apply to the surface of the soil or on the leaves once per week until the mildew is gone.
Ammonia is also often used to detour large pests from eating your crops. Outdoors it can be used to prevent raccoons, rabbits, skunks and other animals from getting at your crops. Indoors it can be used to keep your household pets, such as cats or dogs, from getting into your garden. For this purpose the plants do not need to be in direct contact with the ammonia, but it can be sprayed around the general garden area. The idea is that the ammonia will mimic the urine of predatory animals thus keeping the animals that will eat your plants at bay.
Ammonia is a harsh chemical with powerful fumes that should not be inhaled. The mixing of ammonia should only be done outside or in a well ventilated room and should only be mixed with water and no other chemicals. If ammonia is mixed with bleach you would es-sentially make mustard gas, which is highly toxic when inhaled and can be lethal.
Thanks for the inquiry, Sharon. Hope this answers your question.
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upCoMing events
See, Learn, Discover and Grow at the 2011 Long Beach Indoor Gardening Expo Maximum Yield is excited to welcome you to the 2nd Annual Indoor Gardening Expo,
October 23, 2011. See live demonstrations, learn at our information sessions, discover new techniques
and delight in the uniquely diversified products that will help your garden grow. Visit www.indoorgardenexpo.com for full event details.
got Questions? get answers.Maximum Yield’s resident experts are available and ready to answer your modern gardening questions. E-mail [email protected] or fill out the Ask the Experts question form on maximumyield.com
latest newsWhat will replace bumblebees for pollination if they are extinct? Is there such thing as positive child labor? What are the benefits, if any, to growing a forest on a rooftop? Find out the answers to these questions and more on www.maximumyield.com under Latest News.
The subject of monitoring runoff water can definitely cause debate among growers. I will fan the flames by saying that wastewater testing is exceptionally interesting and can be important information for a grower. In a recirculating system, the runoff needs to be monitored to ensure an adequate level of nutrition and also that the nutrients in
suspension are available to the plant (based on pH levels). In this case, it sounds like you are in a soil/soilless-based system, so I will try and tailor the answer to that style of gardening.For argument’s sake, I will also hazard a guess that you are growing in
a peat-based medium. The first issue of growing in peat is the pH of
Hello Simon,
I’m a new reader of Maximum Yield and need your input on a controversial question me and some of my fellow grower buddies have. Is it beneficial—in any way—to monitor one’s runoff water after drenching one’s soil with nutrients? Some say you can see the chemistry between your plant and its nutrients more efficiently, but I personally see it as totally unnecessary. I have never seen the need for it, basically because I always seem to get drastically false readings on my pH pen when testing the runoff, and my plants always look fine if I just stick to controlling the pH level of my nutes before applying them to the soil.
Thanks,Kyle S.
21Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
Do you have a question for one of our resident experts?Send it to [email protected] or fill out the
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printed in an upcoming issue.
the material. With a pH range usually hovering between four and five, using peat for growing plants requires the use of a calcium supplement to boost the pH to a useful range. In most cases, the manufacturer will add lime of some sort to buffer the pH up.This is the first reason for you to check your runoff. The buffering
effect of the lime only works for a certain amount of time, especially with frequent watering. After this point, the pH of your medium will drift lower and lower. Knowing when the pH starts to drop is an important management tool, especially if you are going long periods without transplanting.Runoff pH can also be affected by the plants themselves. Plants have
an internal pH regulating system and they can also affect the localized pH around the rhizosphere by releasing exudates to suit their needs. The interactions at the root zone can affect the pH of runoff.The last major reason that your runoff pH can fluctuate is the
presence of biology in your medium. Microbes tend to affect their environment. If you have ruled out fertilizer, medium and plant interactions as causes of pH drift it could be the microbiology. In a bacterial-based system, the pH will generally drift up. In a fungal-based system, which is more beneficial but far more difficult to man-age, the pH will drift down.I would think that your point of inaccurate readings of the runoff
water you have tested relates to one of the issues above. It is entirely possible for the pH of water leaving the medium to be much different than the solution you are top feeding to your plants. Remember to keep your testing equipment clean and calibrated to be on the safe side of accuracy.Given the way people like to over-apply fertilizer, another very
important reason to test runoff is to see how much of your money is being wasted, and also if your plants are close to a nutrient absorption issue. Peat has a cation exchange rate, meaning essentially it can retain certain types of nutrients. Once these exchange sites are saturated, the nutrients in solution can reach levels that can harm your plants. Assessing the runoff concentration can, in this case, help you stop over-fertilization and avoid damage to plants. It will also show you if high levels of soluble nutrient are draining through your medium and away from plant roots.The problem in assessing the salt level is that you do not know the
specific elements that are causing the reading. In commercial opera-tions, the readings are broken down into elements from either solution or tissue samples taken throughout the crop lifecycle. Through this, the grower can adjust nearly every aspect of their operation, from medium to fertilizer input. For the average home grower, these tests sometimes cost more than they are worth. In your case, when you look at your plants and they look healthy, that is the best observation possible. Ex-perimenting is a great thing but a healthy crop is just as important.
Slow Food’S 1,000 SuStainable GardenS For aFricaOne thousand gardens are blooming across Africa, where the international organization Slow Food is helping schools, villages and other communities grow fruits, vegetables and herbs using sustainable water management, pest repellent and fertilizing techniques.
In Uganda, most of the food that makes up the daily diet is imported. The country’s soil is rapidly losing fertility, local varieties are disappearing, young people are abandoning the countryside and contempt for farming work is widespread (schoolchildren are often sent to work in the fields as punishment for bad behavior).
In this context, a project was launched in 17 schools, with a total of 620 students. Scholarships have enabled some young people from Africa to study at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Italy and then return home to help their communities
strengthen their economies and protect their cultural identities.(Source: www.treehugger.com)
teStinG FumiGant FilmS that Keep the air cleanResearchers have found a way to help growers minimize emissions of fumigants used as soil treatments, as part of a special project to find the best alternatives to methyl bromide—which is being phased out as a fumigant because of its harmful effects on the Earth’s protective ozone layer.
(Source: www.ars.usda.gov)
bumblebeeS: to FiGht or taKe FliGhtDue to disease problems in the late 1990s and declining bumblebee species, many greenhouse growers now use commercially produced Bombus impatiens, a generalist pollinator native to the Midwest and Eastern United States and Canada, to pollinate their crops like peppers and tomatoes. But scientists are concerned about using a bee outside its native range, and some western states restrict the import and use of non-native bees. If B. impatiens were to escape and form wild colonies in the western United States, they could compete with native bees for food and resources and expose native bumblebees to pathogens they are ill equipped to combat.(Source: www.ars.usda.gov)
VerSatile compound examined in cropSScientists are “spiking” laboratory diets fed to corn earworms and fall armyworms with saponins from soybeans, switchgrass, yerba mate and other sources to determine their effectiveness in protecting plants from insect attacks.
SteadyGrowpro horticulture SpecialiStS teach children how to Grow plantS without SeedS at the children’S muSeum oF indianapoliSThis summer horticulture specialists from steadyGROWpro presented five sessions titled Grow Plants Without Seeds. The interactive sessions were held in the Biotechnology Learning Center at The Children’s Museum of Indianapolis. Attendees learned how to clone a dappled willow in steadyGROWpro media, donated by steadyGROWpro, and learned how to care for their new plant at home.
Presenters from steadyGROWpro included Dr. Pawan Srivastava (Dr. P). With a Ph.D. in post-harvest horticulture, Dr. P oversees all research and development for steadyGROWpro. In addition, Todd Trobaugh, a former educator in Kokomo Center Township Schools, was also a presenter.
“We were pleased with this opportunity to partner with The Children’s Museum of Indianapolis to introduce plant propagation to local children,” says Kelvin Frye, steadyGROWpro’s national sales manager. “The children who participated were attentive and really enjoyed learning how to grow plants in a soilless media.”
india taKeS monSanto to courtAgri-giants Monsanto, developers of India’s first genetically modified food crop—a variety of eggplant known as Bt brinjal—are being accused of biopiracy (biological theft) by the National Biodiversity Authority (NBA) of India.
NBA says the developers of Bt brinjal used local varieties of eggplant in developing the GM crop “without prior approval of the competent authorities.” (GM Watch)(Sources: www.treehugger.com, www.gmwatch.org)
rhode iSland School receiVeS $200,000 naSa Grant For hydroponicS FarmRhode Island farmer Mark Phillips built a 10 by five foot steel hydroponics installation inside teacher Deb Barone’s sixth grade classroom at Lawn Avenue School. The children have planted more than 200 plants. The hydroponics farm cost about $5,000 and was all paid for as part of a $200,000 NASA grant the schools received through the Jamestown Education Foundation.
(Sources: www.jamestownpress.com)
Flower powerScientists in Illinois are investigating the pest-fighting potential of anthocyanins, healthful chemical compounds in the form of plant pigments that give blueberries, plums, grapes and flowers such as petunias their blue and purple color. Studies of anthocyanins could give rise to new crop varieties that boast dual-use phytochemicals—fighting pests and benefiting human health.
youth employment and empowermentOne group of Oregon youth is learning valuable agricultural and business skills, and they’re getting paid to do so at the Food Works youth training and empowerment program. This initiative is about much more than just teaching gardening. Many graduates of the program go on to receive college scholarships through the Janus Youth Program that founded Food Works.
Stars of The Perennial Plate, Daniel Klein and Mirra Fine, spent time with the kids at Food Works and highlighted some of their good work in one of their latest episodes: Kids at a Farm.
(Source: www.ars.usda.gov)
reSearcherS tap yeaStS aS Source oF “Green” SurFactantSSurfactants, which are wetting agents that lower a liquid’s surface tension, have a long list of uses, including in pesticides. Most surfactants are petroleum-based, but an Illinois team of scientists and microbiologists has focused their-attention on sophorolipids, surfactant-like molecules produced by naturally-occurring yeasts.
Only a few Candida yeast species had previously been shown to make the sophorolipids—most notably, C. bombicola and C. apicola, which boast the highest sophorolipid yields. The team’s research analysis turned up three other high-producing yeasts, including a new Candida species.
The findings add to a short list of candidate yeasts with potential use in fermentation-based methods of mass-producing the “green” sophorolipids.
plantinG a rooFtop ForeSt GardenThe Reading International Solidarity Center (RISC) in Reading, Berkshire’s rooftop forest garden was created in 2002 as a means to grow food for its cafe, provide composting facilities, establish a meeting space and offer educational opportunities about food growing. You can find everything from Japanese mountain banana, Musa basjoo, to globe artichokes, Cynara scolymus, and forage for produce as you walk round.Nine years since its creation, RISC is now hosting a day-long event on forest gardening and its role in transforming our food systems. You can learn more about the whole project at www.risc.org.uk
(Sources: www.treehugger.com)
indoor GrowinG made eaSyHydro-Organics is pleased to announce the launch of their first YouTube grow videos. The World’s Largest Hydroponic Ficus and Organic Natural Cloning of Indoor and Outdoor Plants videos are presented by Earth Juice and Hydro-Organics specialist Jason. Jason’s indoor gardening and organics knowledge is obvious and his basic presentation style makes the videos easy to understand for beginners. Simply visit youtube.com, search for the video titles and start learning to grow.
30 Maximum Yield USA | October 2011Maximum Yield October 2011
PRODUCT SpOTLIGhT
yOUR GUIDE TO ThIS mONTh’S HOTTEST ITEMSHOTTEST ITEMSHOTTEST ITEMSHOTTEST ITEMSHOTTEST ITEMSHOTTEST ITEMSHOTTEST ITEMSHOTTEST ITEMSHOTTEST ITEMSask for them at your local indoor gardening store.
dyna-mite leaf SheenAmHydro has partnered up with Crop Protection Technology, Pte Ltd. to introduce Dyna-Mite Leaf Sheen. Regular use of Dyna-Mite Leaf Sheen removes accumulated debris. Dyna-Mite Leaf Sheen is an extremely concentrated non-toxic plant spray made of a unique blend of plant extracts and oils. It leaves practically no residue, no hardening of plant tissues and no harsh taste on edibles and herbs. The natural plant oils in Dyna-Mite Leaf Sheen bond with leaf surfaces to form a protective layer, locking in moisture and nutrients. Contact your local gardening shop for more information.
removes accumulated debris. Dyna-Mite Leaf Sheen is an extremely
evolution-ro1000 evolves with 1:1 ratioHydro-Logic Purification Systems now offers customers the choice to conserve more water. The Evolution-RO1000 now includes the option to reduce your wastewater and achieve a true 1:1 ratio. Other systems require higher than standard household pressure to give true 1,000 GPD flow rates, cost nearly twice as much and do not give the option to choose your own ratio. Hydro-Logic is the clear choice for quality, customer support, cutting edge
technologies and price. Contact your favorite retail distributor for more information on this exciting new update to the Evolution-RO1000. Pure water’s not magic. It’s logic.
introducing SolarStorm™SolarStorm™ is the latest breakthrough in LED grow light technology. It combines a ginormous 800 watt LED panel with UVB fluorescent bulbs to deliver maximum potency. Separate controls for veg and bloom bring the right mix of blue and red light for each stage of plant development while UVB increases resin production and boosts potency in the final stage. Visit an indoor gardening shop near you for more information.
Hydro-Logic Purification Systems now offers customers the choice to conserve more water. The Evolution-RO1000 now includes the option to reduce your wastewater and achieve a true 1:1 ratio. Other systems require higher than standard household pressure to give true 1,000 GPD flow rates, cost nearly twice as much and do not give the option to choose your own ratio. Hydro-Logic is the clear choice for quality, customer support, cutting edge
ntroducing olarStorm™
SolarStorm™ is the latest breakthrough in LED grow light technology. It combines a ginormous 800 watt LED panel with UVB fluorescent bulbs to deliver maximum potency. Separate controls for veg and bloom bring the right mix of blue and red light for each stage of plant development while UVB increases resin production and boosts potency in the final stage. Visit an indoor gardening shop near you for more information.
Grow big with the Grotek mega packGrotek is proud to introduce the new limited edition Grotek Mega Pack, only available in the United States. The Mega Pack provides all of Grotek’s top formulas: Solo-Tek™ Bloom/Grow, Bloom Fuel™, Blossom Blaster™, Monster Bloom™, Heavy Bloom™, Vitamax Plus™ and Vegetative Growth Booster™. Also included is our award winning Grotek feed chart dial, now featuring one side for grow and one side for bloom. All of these amazing products are conveniently packaged in a limited edition Grotek cooler bag. Place your order today at your nearest indoor gardening retail shop.
ideal-airtm 24,000 and 36,000 btu 13 Seer mini Split air conditionersAnnouncing the release of the 24,000 and 36,000 BTU 13 SEER Mini Split Air Conditioners from Ideal-AirTM. Most mini split air conditioners require a service technician for installation. The Ideal-AirTM Mini Split Air Conditioners stand above the rest. Perfect for the grower with the do-it-yourself mentality, Ideal-AirTM
mini splits offer quick connect fittings and pre-charged line sets to make installation a breeze. Ideal-AirTM has gone to great lengths to make installation of the mini-split a simple task for any skill level. Visit an indoor gardening shop near you for more information.
SuperFood plants tabs – a breakthrough in bio-organic plant nutrition
After over a year of development and testing, Organic Bountea, in partnership with Wonder Soil, has launched the all-new SuperFood Plant Tabs. SuperFood Tabs are a unique blend of Alaska
Humisoil, nutrients, minerals and beneficial microbes. Manufactured using Wonder Soil’s patented system, the compact tabs quickly disperse in water to form a microbial and mineral rich suspension with all the benefits of premium compost tea. SuperFood Plant Tabs can be used to nourish all plants—indoors and outdoors. Boxes of 25 tabs are available through Organic Bountea authorized retailers.
34 Maximum Yield USA | October 2011October 2011Maximum Yield Maximum Yield October 2011
PRODUCT SpOTLIGhT
ideal-airtm 50 pint dehumidifierAnnouncing the release of the 50 Pint Dehumidifier from Ideal-AirTM. If too much moisture in your grow area is an issue, Ideal-AirTM has you covered. This portable dehumidifier offers an easy-to-use digital display panel with humidity readings, a two gallon reservoir and a removable, washable filter. The built-in defrost system is designed for operation down to 45°F. A versatile machine, this dehumidifier has an automatic shut-off when the reservoir tank is full or it can be plumbed for permanent drainage. Designed with a heavy-duty compressor and three speed fan motor. Visit an indoor gardening retail store today for more information.
. If too much moisture in your . If too much moisture in your has you covered. This portable dehumidifier offers an easy-to-use has you covered. This portable dehumidifier offers an easy-to-use
digital display panel with humidity readings, a two gallon reservoir and a removable, washable digital display panel with humidity readings, a two gallon reservoir and a removable, washable filter. The built-in defrost system is designed for operation down to 45°F. A versatile machine, this filter. The built-in defrost system is designed for operation down to 45°F. A versatile machine, this dehumidifier has an automatic shut-off when the reservoir tank is full or it can be plumbed for permanent drainage. Designed with a heavy-duty compressor and three speed fan motor. Visit an permanent drainage. Designed with a heavy-duty compressor and three speed fan motor. Visit an
introducing Vineline™The newest product in plant support is VineLine™. This durable polyethylene netting has a six inch by six inch mesh design and works great for guiding and supporting all types of climbing plants and flowers. This versatile product can be used in vertical or horizontal growing applications and will resist tangling. It’s reusable, which will save you time and money, and available in five by 15 feet and five by 30 feet quantities. For larger jobs, four by 3,300 feet industrial size rolls are also available. Visit a DL Wholesale authorized retailer for more information.
ntroducing ine™
The newest product in plant support is VineLine™. This durable polyethylene netting has a six inch by six inch mesh design and works great for guiding and supporting all types of climbing plants and flowers. This versatile product can be used in vertical or horizontal growing applications and will resist tangling. It’s reusable, which will save you time and money, and available in five by 15 feet and five by 30 feet quantities. For larger jobs, four by 3,300 feet industrial size rolls are also available. Visit a DL Wholesale authorized retailer for more information.
new mini Sunburst reflectorThe Mini Sunburst Reflector is lighter, more compact and a great value. These units are plug-and-play and come with a cord and lamp to get you started. Available in both 150 HPS and 175 watt MH versions, these reflectors have highly reflective interior specular surfaces. They are easy to hang, and will fit just about anywhere. Each unit includes instructions, hangers and lighting recommendations. For more information visit an authorized Hydrofarm retailer near you.
introducing botanicare’s new redesigned power cloner lineBotanicare® Power Cloners™ have been modified and improved. Redeveloped with Botanicare’s low profile reservoir, these systems decrease propagation time and now include an array of new features and benefits:• Unique Botanicare Cord Guide designed to block sprayed
solution and improve cord management• Drainage grid with a recessed pump• An internally seated tray• Humidome™ options*• Customizable points for installation of spouts and fittings• Botanicare Ceramic Airstones with Air Pump• Water volume indicator
• Dense neoprenes
These highly affordable second generation Power Cloners™—45, 77 and 180—are now available in black* (100 per cent recycled ABS plastic) and white (70 per cent recycled ABS). *Black Power Cloners do not include a Humidome. The Humidome can be purchased separately. Visit your favorite hydroponics shop for more information.
36 Maximum Yield USA | October 2011| October 201136 Maximum Yield
PRODUCT SpOTLIGhT
Safe brand products now availableSafer® Brand offers the broadest and most successful line of organic gardening, organic insecticide and organic pest control products including: Insect Killing Soap, Rose and Flower Insect Killer, Tomato and Vegetable Insect Killer, Moss and Algae Killer, Bioneem Insecticide, Ringer Compost Plus, Diatomaceous Earth Insect Killer and Houseplant Sticky Stakes. Organic gardeners need organic insect killers to eliminate common garden pests without leaving behind harmful residuals. These OMRI® listed products will give gardeners peace of mind knowing the product they are spraying in their organic garden is certified organic. For more information visit an authorized Hydrofarm retail shop near you.
titan Controls® orion 1™ 220/240 volt power supply
Sunlight Supply®, Inc. is pleased to announce the release of the Orion 1™ 220/240 volt power supply from Titan Controls®. This innovative, solid-state device combines two different 110/120 volt circuits into 220/240 volt power. This allows
a user to operate a device without the expense of having an electrician install a specific volt outlet in their grow space. The Orion 1™ features a patented safety circuit feature that automatically locks out power until all connections and voltages are correct. Safely use all the power you need and grow with peace of mind. Rated to 12 amps, ETL listed and manufactured in the USA. Visit an indoor gardening shop near you for more information.
introducing compost tea in a boxCompost Tea in a Box brings the benefits of compost tea to the home/hobby gardener. It is designed to be used with a simple five gallon bucket set-up with an air pump and diffuser. It comes in three convenient sizes with detailed instructions and Earth Compound, Earth Tonic, Earth Syrup and Earth Kelp inputs calibrated to our proven recipe—20, 40 and 80 gallons. Compost tea can and should be used in every gardening situation. Visit an authorized Progress Earth retailer for more information and get started today.
ntroducing ompost tea tea t
xCompost Tea in a Box brings the benefits of compost tea to the home/hobby gardener. It is designed to be used with a simple five gallon bucket set-up with an air pump and diffuser. It comes in three convenient sizes with detailed instructions and Earth Compound, Earth Tonic, Earth Syrup and Earth Kelp inputs calibrated to our proven recipe—20, 40 and 80 gallons. Compost tea can and should be
Great new tools now available for indoor GardenersLook to Barbed Reducers, available in three different sizes, for your next project. The reducers are double barbed for increased retention, and their sharp edges create a leak-proof seal. With increased strength and UV stabilization for long life, these are sure to hold up to even the toughest projects. They’re also heat, chemical and wear resistant. And the new standard mesh bottom tray fits snugly inside and outside of standard flats, perfect for suspending young plants or cuttings in nutrients. Ask for these great new tools from your authorized BWGS retailer today.
crop King™ and eZ lume™ magnetic ballastsOur brand new 1,000 watt magnetic ballasts are UL certified and use Aerovox capacitors. They are multi-voltage capable (120/240
volts) and feature two universal sockets. Their constant wattage output means no lamp flickering and with the flip of a switch they can be converted from MH to
HPS ballasts. Both models have rubber feet to reduce noise and vibration. The EZ Lume™ ballast is made from white powder-coated aluminum housing and features heat-dispersing fins on all four sides. The Crop King™ ballast
sports two-toned blue and white steel housing. Both
ballasts come with a five year warranty. Visit your local indoor gardening shop for
more information.
rubber feet to reduce noise and vibration. The EZ Lume™ ballast is made from white powder-coated aluminum housing and features heat-dispersing fins on all four sides. The Crop King™ ballast
sports two-toned blue and white steel housing. Both
Sunleaves liquid Guano is a refreshing choiceGardeners looking for easy-to-apply and extremely effective fertilizer will love Sunleaves Liquid Guanos. Derived from bats, the Liquid Mexican Guano (0.8-0.5-0) encourages robust vegetative development and can be applied as either a foliar spray or directly onto soil. For bigger blossoms and juicier fruits, try Sunleaves Liquid Peruvian Seabird Guano (0-2.5-0), which can also be applied as either a foliar spray or directly onto soil. Both have the active ingredient of kelp extract, which will provide organic matter as food for soil microbes. It’s also the only liquid guano with a fresh spearmint scent. Now available from your local hydro retailer.
Grower’s Secret Grow big 521 now available
Changing the world starts in your own backyard. Finally there’s an all-natural fertilizer that is easy-to-use, smells great and gives you results
you can brag about. The formula combines nutrient-rich organic fish emulsion with patented Grower’s Secret Pro and lavender oil. Your plants will drink up the water-soluble nitrogen and other nutrients that help them thrive. Your plants will love the nutrients and you’ll love the results. For more information visit an authorized Hydrofarm retailer near you.
maverick Sun’s new ducting and clampsMaverick Sun’s ducting comes in convenient lengths for large or small grows. Their professional ducting is economical but made of premium quality no-tear material, and their lightproof ducting features a black rubber coating. Available in the traditional six and eight inch sizes and in smaller and larger sizes to accommodate ducting reducers. Maverick Sun’s clamps were designed to accompany any ducting or reflector in the market. Made from high quality durable steel, these clamps are easy to use and were built to last. Available clamp sizes in inches are: four, six, eight, 10 and 12. For more information visit an indoor gardening shop near you.
one bad motherThe Mother was designed using the latest in computer-aided technology providing optimum performance and efficiency. This T5 comes well ventilated to provide a long ballast life. On top of the fixture resides a hatch that opens into the ballast compartment for easy ballast replacement or repairs. The Maverick Sun high shine spectral reflector delivers more light to your plants, and installed veg lamps in the hood make it easy to open, plug in and get growing. The eight lamp fixture features two on/off switches enabling the user to run their choice of four or eight lamps at a time. Visit an indoor gardening retailer for more information.
bountea Garden tea brew Kit – newly designed and more affordableOrganic Bountea has transformed their older model Bountea Brew Kit to make brewing high quality Bountea compost tea simpler and more affordable. The Garden Tea brewer has a larger volume air pump and a newly designed, extra-efficient aeration system. The new rigid aeration unit includes a high-tech plastic air diffuser that increases
water oxygenation and agitation, is easy to clean and practically unbreakable. The
Garden Tea Brew Kit includes the same premium ingredients as the older model: three bags of Alaska Humisoil, and one pound of Bioactivator and
M3. Root Web is now sold separately. Ask your favorite gardening retailer to carry Bountea
products today.
introducing extreme propagation traysTired of thin, flimsy trays that crack and warp? Then check out DL Wholesale’s brand new 10 by 20 inch Extreme Propagation Trays. These trays are three times thicker than any other tray on the market and feature wide ridges and continuous channels to evenly distribute water and offer better support for your grow mediums. Extreme Propagation Trays will last longer than standard trays due to their extreme thickness and will eliminate the need to constantly replace your trays, saving you precious time and money. Visit an indoor/outdoor gardening shop near you for more details.
check out DL Wholesale’s brand new 10 by 20 inch
Propagation
and a newly designed, extra-efficient aeration system. The new rigid aeration unit includes a high-tech plastic air diffuser that increases
water oxygenation and agitation, is easy to clean and practically unbreakable. The
Garden Tea Brew Kit includes the same premium ingredients as the older model: three bags of Alaska Humisoil, and one pound of Bioactivator and
M3. Root Web is now
Ask your favorite
to carry Bountea products today.
introducing earth Syrup From progress earthEarth Syrup is a premium-crafted dry blend of natural, organic nutrients and beneficial materials. All materials are micronized to 500 micron or below for maximum solubility and availability. Earth Syrup is a carbon-based product that ignites the metabolic activities of soils and plants. The materials found within stimulate the growth of beneficial microorganisms and help plants in the vegetative and flowering cycle, as well as encourage higher yields and the production of flavonoids, essential oils and other primary co-factors that make plants smell and taste better. Earth Syrup can serve as a direct plant food and as an additive to improve a custom soil or fertilizer mix, or for creating compost tea in the Vortex Brewer™ system. Visit a biodynamic-friendly indoor gardening or hydroponic retailer near you for more information.
The materials found within stimulate the growth of beneficial microorganisms
eMbrace orGanics. iMprove your Garden. iMprove your Life.
Let’s Get started
High-quality food should not be a trend, nor should it be exclusively available only to those who can afford it. Although organic produce can be pretty expensive when purchased from the supermarket, there is one great way to reduce the cost—grow it yourself! It’ll take some time to get up to speed and it’s likely you’ll experience some challenges, but whatever effort you put into growing healthy, organic produce will eventu-ally come back to you in lessons learned and beautiful pro-duce grown for you and your family to enjoy. And you’ll be in control: growing your own food will allow you the freedom to be self-sustainable to the extent you desire. How much work or effort you are willing to put in will influence the outcome in terms of taste, aroma and final fresh weight of produce, but a little patience, some hard work and a bit of reading will have your organic garden up and running. The beauty of growing
plants year-round is that anyone can do it—begin-ners, advanced horticulturalists and everyone in between are capable of producing excellent results.Over the years, organic gardening
has developed into a pretty ag-gressive global trend. It can be applied indoors or out year-round using virtually the same materials for both hydroponic and soil-based systems. Some may think organic farm-ing is messy and requires a lot of mucking about with muddy, soupy or
dusty ingredients—while this is true to a certain extent, there are a variety of clean products and techniques that can help the grower achieve superb organic results on a small- or large-scale, all while staying relatively clean and dry. The techniques required are simple: with water-soluble tablets, place one in a gallon of water, shake and feed generously into the root zone; with refined liquid concentrates, apply at the rate of one table-spoon per gallon of clean water; with hose-end applicator sys-tems, just attach, turn on the water source and apply to lawns, flower beds, vegetable gardens or trees; and with dry granular mixtures and powders apply one tablespoon per gallon of grow medium as a top dressing, pre-mixed into the soil or diluted into clean water.It seems that the refining technology implemented in fertil-
izer manufacturing has vastly improved across the industry in recent years, allowing growers to enjoy higher-quality results, whether in hydroponics, soil–based or soilless systems.One-part organic nutrient systems are great for those begin-
ners, novice and even advanced growers who want to grow premium-quality organic produce without too much com-plexity in their fertilizer regime. Two bottles are all that is re-quired: one comprised of a blend to promote vegetative growth and another containing a formula to stimulate flowering and fruiting production, if necessary. All-purpose one part systems also exist that consist of a single bottle that is used for all stages of growth and bloom. These types contain a fairly balanced N-P-K ratio, with adequate trace elements and micronutrients.
Required dilution ratios may increase or decrease throughout the various growth stages, but only one bottle is needed for the entire lifecycle of a plant. These all-purpose one part systems are obviously the simplest method for the novice grower to handle, as there is only one bottle used instead of two.These solutions can actually be a very clean and simple way
to provide your crop with an array of organic nutrition derived from botanical or other natural by-products such as kelp, worm castings, seabird and bat guanos, humus, blood meal, compost, molasses, fish emulsions, hydrolysates and more. Newer propri-etary formulas even boast perfuming agents such as lavender, citrus or grape to further enhance the user-friendly appeal and
to mask the harsher smells from organic ingredients. When possible, mix with a de-chlorinated water source to encour-age microbial activity in the solution. The de-chlorination and sediment removal systems available from most indoor gardening retail centers are far superior in performance and cost-efficiency of water production in comparison to standard kitchen sink faucet filters, providing much higher filtered water flow rates
growing organics
“Growing your own food will allow you the freedom to be self-sustainable to the extent you desire.”
and removing much higher levels of contaminants from the water supply.For those growers wanting to take it up a notch from the
all-purpose or one part nutrient systems, try implementing a granular or dry organic fertilizer mix as a top dressing to estab-lished or newly planted seedlings and cuttings, in conjunction with your chosen liquid nutrient solution. These mixes, which are pretty much idiot-proof when applied as directed, are rela-tively inexpensive compared to some liquid organic systems and provide a slow, time-released effect that allows the plants to ab-sorb what they need as they need it. One part nutrient systems or dry organic fertilizer mixes used alone or in combination should produce lush growth and thick fruit sets with absolutely no need for cheap box-brand chemical fertilizers.Gardening on a windowsill, near a sunny window or in a
sunroom are all great ways to grow healthy crops organically without the added expense and energy usage of indoor lights. Organic soil, coco and other soilless mixes all work effectively in wicking/capillary systems, one of my preferred methods for sun-kissed plants. These systems use a reservoir underneath the growing container portion of the system and allow the desired grow medium to transfer water from the reservoir up to the main portion of the root mass with no wicks required. The reservoir may have molded slots protruding from the base up-wards that are filled with small amounts of the desired growing
“newer proprietary formulas even boast perfuming agents such as lavender, citrus or grape to further enhance the user-friendly appeal and to mask the harsher smells from organic ingredients.”
and removing much higher levels of contaminants from the
friendly appeal and to mask the harsher smells from organic ingredients.”
media—organic soil, coco, peat or whatever you have chosen to employ. The main growing container holding all of the media and the root system has cutouts that connect the soil-filled slots in the reservoir to the soil mass in the main container. Capillary action occurs as a result and ensures that consistent moisture and air ratios are maintained in the root system, ensuring root health and reducing the probability of infectious disease.
Plants are still plants at the end of the day, meaning the ar-tificial environments we construct to raise them indoors can never be completely fail proof. The finest equipment, lighting and grow formulations are only ever as good as the operator in control of production. It is still not rocket science, though—wa-ter, air, nutrition and light provided in the correct proportions and increments will lead to plant growth. Organic gardening, when done properly, will renew and revitalize soil rather than deplete it, conserve water as opposed to polluting or wasting it and preserve heirloom genetics instead of diminishing them. As an avid follower of hydroponic and indoor gardening-related technologies, I highly recommend starting an organic gardening project for yourself—you’ll be delighted to discover how simple it can be to keep your footprint small and still produce quality, organic, homegrown grown produce. MY
There are two separate photosystems over which the light reaction takes place: photosystem I and photosystem II. One of the main differences between the two photosystems is that antenna pig-ments of photosystem I absorb light predominately of a wavelength of 700 nanometers while the pigments of photosystem II absorb light mostly from the 680 nanometer wavelength. The two photosystems are joined by an electron transport chain made of a num-ber of proteins, many of which contain inorganic nutrients within them.When light energy is absorbed by the
antenna pigments of the leaf it is funneled to the reaction centers of the two photosystems. Once the absorbed light energy reaches the reaction center of photosystem II a water mol-ecule is split in the Hill Reaction. When the water molecule is split O
2 evolves and electrons
are bumped to a higher energy level. Two inorganic nutrients, manganese and chlorine, are necessary for the Hill Reaction to occur. Without them water molecules will not split and photosynthesis will not proceed. Zinc (Zn) has also been linked to the Hill Reaction and deficiencies in zinc have been shown to result in impaired Hill Reaction activity.
T H E H I L L R E A C T I O N : 2 H 2O - - - > 4 E - + 4 H + + O 2 ( M N + C L )
It is from this reaction that oxy-gen is evolved in photosynthesis. It was once believed that the oxygen released from photosynthesis came from the breakdown of carbon dioxide, but that has been shown not to be the case. After being sent to a higher energy state by the absorption of light energy in photosystem II, the electrons from the water molecule are trapped by a protein complex. This pro-tein complex strongly resembles an electron transport chain. It
includes cytochromes, ferrodoxin, iron-sulfur proteins and plastocyanin. Again,
the importance of plant nutrients is evident by the presence of iron (Fe) in ferrodoxin, copper (Cu) in plastocyanin and sulfur (S) in the iron-sulfur proteins.Once the electrons have reached
this protein complex, they are moved along the chain from one
protein to another down an energy gradient. As the electrons move down
this transport chain, the energy that they lose is used to add an extra phos-
phate to ADP in order to make ATP. This process is termed photophosphorylation.As the electrons make their way down the
protein transport chain they will eventually come to photosystem I. Once the electrons have made it to photosystem I, a process oc-curs that very closely mirrors what happened at photosystem II. Various antenna pigments absorb
light energy of a wavelength of 700 nanometers and that energy is funneled to the reaction center. Once the energy reaches the reaction center it is used to again elevate the two electrons to a higher energy level. After
reaching a higher energy state the electrons again move down an electron transport system much like they did after
photosystem II. The big difference here is that the electrons are not used to manufacture ATP, but instead they are used to reduce NADP to NADPH
2. The NADPH
2 is later used in the
Calvin Cycle in the manufacturing of carbohydrates from carbon diox-ide—non-cyclic photosynthesis.As stated earlier, photophos-
phorylation is the process by which ATP is created in the light reaction. This is a very important process for it is the only time that ATP is created during photosyn-thesis. And just like nearly every other event that occurs in photo-synthesis, photophosphorylation is greatly affected by inorganic nutrients. Photophosphorylation takes place in the protein chain
Photosynthesis and Plant nutrition 2
IGHT REACTION”
e are two separate photosystems over which the light reaction takes place: photosystem I and photosystem II. One of the main differences between the two photosystems is that antenna pig-ments of photosystem I absorb light predominately of a wavelength of 700 nanometers while the pigments of photosystem II absorb light mostly of photosystem II absorb light mostly from the 680 nanometer wavelength. The two photosystems are joined by an electron transport chain made of a num-ber of proteins, many of which contain inorganic nutrients within them.When light energy is absorbed by the
antenna pigments of the leaf it is funneled to the reaction centers of the two photosystems. Once the absorbed light energy reaches the reaction center of photosystem II a water mol-ecule is split in the Hill Reaction. When the
evolves and electrons to a higher energy
level. Two inorganic nutrients, level. Two inorganic nutrients, manganese and chlorine, are necessary for the Hill Reaction to occur. Without them water molecules will not split and photosynthesis will not proceed. Zinc (Zn) has also been linked to the Hill Reaction and deficiencies in zinc have
includes cytochromes, ferrodoxin, iron-sulfur proteins and plastocyanin. Again,
the importance of plant nutrients is evident by the presence of iron (Fe) in ferrodoxin, copper (Cu) in plastocyanin and sulfur (S) in the iron-sulfur proteins.Once the electrons have reached
this protein complex, they are moved along the chain from one moved along the chain from one
protein to another down an energy gradient. As the electrons move down
this transport chain, the energy that they lose is used to add an extra phos
phate to ADP in order to make ATP. This process is termed photophosphorylation.As the electrons make their way down the
protein transport chain they will eventually come to photosystem I. Once the electrons have made it to photosystem I, a process occurs that very closely mirrors what happened at photosystem II. Various antenna pigments absorb
light energy of a wavelength of 700 nanometers and that energy is funneled to the reaction center. Once the energy reaches the reaction center it is used to again elevate the two electrons to a higher energy level. After
reaching a higher energy state the electrons again move
“ W H E N L I G H T E N E R G Y I S A B S O R B E D BY
T H E A N T E N N A P I G M E N T S O F T H E L E A F I T
I S F U N N E L E D TO T H E R E AC T I O N C E N T E R S
that is located between photosystem II and photosystem I; more specifically, it occurs at the thylakoid membrane.Initially, in photosystem II, a water molecule is split up (the
Hill Reaction) into an oxygen molecule, two electrons and four protons (H+). As discussed earlier, the two electrons are sent to a state of elevated energy due to the absorbance of light energy by chlorophyll molecules as well as some other pigments. Then these electrons proceed to move to photosystem I via a protein
chain, in the process losing much of the energy that they had gained. This energy is not just lost though. It is used to pump the protons that were released from the splitting of water across the thylakoid membrane from the stroma region of the chloro-plast into the thylakoid. Pumping all of these protons across the thylakoid membrane sets up an electrochemical gradient, which drives the synthesis of ATP.Protons naturally will try to flow down the electrochemi-
cal gradient, from high potential to low potential. In this case the protons will try to move back into the stroma from the
thylakoid. The protons move back across the thylakoid mem-brane into the stroma through an enzyme called ATP-synthase. When they move through this enzyme, into the stroma they are moving to an area of lower potential. The protons then must lose some energy along the way, right? Well they do, and this energy is used to put an inorganic phosphate ion, denoted Pi, to ADP, thus creating ATP.Inorganic nutrients are very crucial to the functioning of this
process. Iron, sulfur and copper are all parts of proteins that are critical in the movement of electrons from photosystem II to photosystem I. Calcium is also very important in this process because it maintains membrane integrity. Obviously, this is very important when considering the flow of protons and electrons across the thylakoid membrane. Phosphorous too, plays an important role. Not only is phosphorous added to ADP to form ATP, it, like calcium, is important in maintaining membrane integrity.Toxicities, not just deficiencies, can have a detrimental effect
on photophosphorylation. One well documented toxicity that can have adverse effects on the production of ATP is ammonia toxicity. When ammonia reaches toxic levels in the plant, one of the many problems that can occur is the uncoupling of pho-tosynthetic phosphorylation. The production of ATP becomes uncoupled due to the detrimental effects of ammonia on the thy-lakoid membranes. As mentioned earlier, the functioning of the thylakoid membrane is integral in the production of ATP. When the membrane becomes distorted in any way, ATP production will inevitably fall, and the plant will suffer. Thus, it is important to not only know if you are deficient in an inorganic nutrient
but to know when nutrients may be at toxic levels as well. This is why tissue testing should be done on a regular basis.It is evident that inorganic nutrients have a major impact on
the light reactions of photosynthesis. Nitrogen is in every amino acid in a plant; thus, it must also be part of every single protein in a plant as well as being a major component of the chloro-phyll molecule. Nitrogen is involved in nearly every aspect of the light reactions as well as photosynthesis as a whole. Phos-phorous also plays a big role in the light reactions of photosyn-thesis. It is phosphorous that is added to the ADP to form ATP that will be used elsewhere in the plant for energy. Phospho-rous is also part of NADP, which is reduced to the NADPH
2
that goes on to the Calvin Cycle. Magnesium is the central component of the chlorophyll mol-ecule and therefore is vital to the functioning of the light reactions of photosyn-thesis. Research has shown that up to 10 per cent of the mag-nesium in the plant is held in chlorophyll. Manganese, chlorine and possibly zinc are essential for the Hill Reaction to function. Iron, sulfur and copper are all parts of proteins that help move electrons between the two photosystems.
4. T R A N S P O R T O F P H OTO S Y N T H AT E S TO P H LO E M A N D T H E N TO OT H E R R E G I O N S O F T H E P L A N T.
THE DARK REAC TION/ CALVIN CYCLE
The Calvin Cycle is often referred to as the dark reaction of photosynthesis, which can be misleading as the Calvin Cycle can occur both during day and night. However, light is not
rous is also part of NADP, which is reduced to the NADPH2
that goes on to the Calvin Cycle. Magnesium is the central component of the chlorophyll mol-ecule and therefore is vital to the functioning of the light reactions of photosyn-thesis. Research has shown that up to 10 per cent of the magper cent of the mag-nesium in the plant is held in chlorophyll. Manganese, chlorine and possibly zinc are essential for the Hill Reaction to function. Iron, sulfur and copper are all parts of proteins that help move electrons between the two
“ T H E D A R K R E AC T I O N O F
P H OTO S Y N T H E S I S B E G I N S W I T H T H E
D I F F U S I O N O F C A R B O N D I OX I D E I N TO
required for this reaction to proceed; hence the name. In the most general terms, the dark reaction of photosynthesis involves the evolution of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere into the plant where it is used to manufacture carbohydrates. The actual cycle is much more in-depth than that, however. Once again, inorganic nutrients play an important role in the many facets of the dark reaction of photosynthesis. As in the light reaction, inorganic nutrients have both direct and indirect effects on the dark reaction.
“ R U B I S CO I S I M P O R TA N T B E C AU S E I T I S
T H O U G H T TO B E T H E S I N G L E M O S T CO M M O N
The dark reaction of photosynthesis begins with the diffusion of carbon dioxide into the leaf via the stomata, while oxygen—created in the light reaction—diffuses. One plant nutrient that plays an essential role in the movement of carbon dioxide into the leaf is potassium (K). Carbon dioxide moves into the leaf through the stomata. The stomata, which are located mostly on the underside of the leaf, can be opened and closed by a plant as needed. The opening and closing of the stomata is regulated by guard cells that are located on either side of the stomata. The movement of potassium into the guard cells will determine whether they allow the stomata to remain open or closed. With potassium deficiencies, there will be problems in the movement of carbon dioxide into the leaves, as well as movement of oxy-gen out. Without much needed carbon from carbon dioxide, the plant may have to resort to mining carbon from inside the plant itself in order to manufacture much needed carbohydrates that will be used in respiration. In addition, oxygen has an inhibitory effect on photosynthesis, and when levels of oxygen inside a plant get too high, photosynthesis rates may drop.Once carbon dioxide has diffused into the intercellular spaces
of the leaves, it then moves into plant cells where it is trans-ported into the chloroplast so that it can be integrated into a carbon skeleton via the Calvin Cycle to form the precursors of starches, sugars, proteins and fatty acids. The Calvin Cycle begins with one molecule of carbon dioxide entering the cycle and combining with ribulose 1,5 bisphosphate, a five-carbon sugar to form a series of three-carbon compounds. This reac-tion is catalyzed by the enzyme rubisco. Rubisco is important because it is thought to be the single most common protein on
64 Maximum Yield USA | October 201164 Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
Photosynthesis and Plant nutrition 2
the planet Earth. In addition, magnesium and perhaps manga-nese are essential for the functioning of this enzyme. Without the presence of at least one of these elements this enzyme will not function, carbon dioxide will not be fixed by ribulose 1,5 bisphosphate and the Calvin Cycle will not proceed.After going through a reduction stage a molecule of glyceral-
dehyde three-phosphate, a three-carbon compound is produced. Glyceraldehyde three-phosphate is then used in the synthesis of sugars, starches, fatty acids and proteins. Ribulose 1,5-bispho-sphate is then regenerated and sent to combine with another molecule of carbon dioxide. A question could then be posed: How is glyceraldehyde three-phosphate, a three-carbon com-pound produced and ribulose 1,5 bisphosphate, a five-carbon compound, regenerated while only adding one molecule of car-bon dioxide? The answer is that the cycle must turn three times, thus adding three carbon dioxide molecules in order to produce one molecule of glyceraldehyde three-phosphate.Most of the glyceraldehyde three-phosphate that is produced,
moves into the cytosol of the cell where it is used in a variety of reactions. Most of the glyceraldehyde three-phosphate that remains in the chloroplast is converted into starch and stored temporarily as starch granules that are later exported to the rest of the plant for use.
“ W H E N O R G A N S S U C H A S F LO W E R S A R E
F O R M I N G , T H E R E I S A G R E AT N E E D F O R
66 Maximum Yield USA | October 201166 Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
TRANSPORT OF PHOTOSYNTHATEAfter the products of photosyn-
thesis—sugars, starches, fatty acids and proteins—are formed they must be moved from their
point of origin or source, to a location where they are needed—a sink. Photosyn-thates are moved around the plant via the phloem tissue. Two elements in
particular are crucial for the movement of photosynthate from source to sink. Potas-
sium, in addition to its many other roles in the plant, serves to
transport the products of photosynthe-sis around the plant. When organs such as
flowers are forming, there is a great need for potassium in a plant. When deficiencies in potassium occur, there is often decreased flower set or a decrease in flower size and quality. The importance of potassium during times of high metabolic demand cannot be understated.
Calcium is also important in the movement of photosynthate around a plant. Calcium has been found to be important in the loading of the phloem with the products of photosynthesis. If calcium were deficient, there would be problems with getting photosynthate into the phloem tissue and thus it would not be available to sink areas on the plant.
I N O R G A N I C N U T R I E N T S H AV E B OT H D I R E C T A N D I N D I R E C T E F F E C T S O N P H OTO S Y N T H E S I S :
D I R E C T E F F E C T S
Usually reversible, such as rapid recovery of rate of net photo-synthesis when a deficient element is reintroduced at the proper level (manganese in chloroplasts, for example).
I N D I R E C T E F F E C T SIons involved in synthesis of enzymes and pigments, those involved in transport, etc. Potassium has an indirect effect via control of stomatal opening and closing.
This concludes our discussion of photosynthesis and plant nu-trition. For further reading on the topic, visit http://florahydroponics.com MY
Food safety should not be a consumer concern; they have enough to worry about. Food safety needs to start with the grower. When food is grown hydroponically, there are added challenges. Read on to find out what those are and how to overcome them.
68 Maximum Yield USA | October 201168 Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
What is Food saFety?One of the concepts that needs to be in included in the defini-tion of sustainability is that of food safety. Let’s face it, if you can’t provide a safe product, your business is not likely to be sustained, nor will you have the resources to be sustainable! The Food Safety Modernization Act (FSMA)—passed in January of 2011—does not apply to businesses that produce less than $500,000 in sales annually and the FDA is still determining what other factors will require a facility to register. This does not mean, however, that the steps bigger producers are taking can’t inform smaller operations about safety considerations and processes. In fact, your customers may insist that you follow some of these practices.To begin, let’s imagine what might be behind the need for a
food recall. If contaminated food makes it through the distribu-tion process to the recall stage, it had to have been contaminated somehow, it had to make someone sick or caused death and it now must be traced back to the grower or handler, who will suf-fer consequences. On top of the inevitable brand damage, the real damage will occur if the producer can’t quickly and efficiently trace the source of the contamination (in order to stop it) and the product affected (to get all of the contaminated product out of the food chain).
This is deadly serious business—if you can’t find the source of the contamination, then you risk another recall and the certain demise of your business. You can imagine what a recall will do to your customer relations and how difficult it will be to face the press and answer questions about the product affected.
“The Food SaFeTy ModernizaTion acT (FSMa)—paSSed in January oF
2011—doeS noT apply To buSineSSeS ThaT produce leSS Than $500,000 in
Food safety is a serious topic. In the annual report for 2010 the 229 primary industry and regulatory Report-able Food Registry (RFR) entries that would be of most concern were: Listeria monocytogenes at 14.4 per cent; E. coli O157:H7 at 2.6 per cent; ‘other’ at seven per cent; foreign objects at 1.3 per cent; and Salmonella at 37.6 per cent.
Although some of these entries are from foreign products and few are from things grown hydroponically, it helps to identify what we need to watch for and prevent from get-ting into our food. It is reasonable to believe that we can avoid many of these risks by growing in a protected en-vironment, but it is true that we cannot avoid all of them. Nothing about hydroponics is inherently completely safe, although as a growing method it may be potentially safer than outdoor farming.You should note that a recall is not something that the
size of your annual sales or the type of farm you operate will necessarily always help you to get out of. The FDA, via FSMA, has the duty to order recalls
based on presumed contamination and the rules will be
“you MuST learn The rudiMenTS oF Food SaFeTy even iF you
give Food away. prevenTion oF conTaMinaTion iS your priMary
science-based, while remaining flexible with regard to a number of factors, including size and type of farm. The empha-sis will be on prevention and traceability.
your role and responsibilityThe industry refers to the programs and processes leading to safe food as quality control. You can think of quality control as a
collection of related steps that reduce the risk of contamination, although no process or program can guarantee safe food—there will always be some risk involved. The FDA maintains a website that details easy steps for compliance and it should be obvious that utilizing the resources of the government in this fashion demonstrates appropriate concern for people’s wellbeing, even if you might initially see it as meddling or heavy-handed.The FDA will require you to have records that will allow you
to retrieve purchaser information easily and rapidly. You are also obligated to keep records that will allow you to identify the source of all products and related processes.You must learn the rudiments of food safety even if you give
food away. Prevention of contamination is your primary tool in keeping food safe. Assuming that you only use fertilizer and no other chemical inputs, then your main concern will be microbial contamination. All microorganisms require water, food and ap-propriate temperatures to thrive and the removal of any of these conditions for life will create safer food by reducing the repro-duction of harmful organisms or promoting their death.Although microbes don’t do well when dried out, this happens
often in their world so they have coping mechanisms and can return quickly when exposed to moisture again. Microbes like food as well, but most of the time we can remove their favorite foods by using care in sanitizing our processes and tools. Washing hands and wearing gloves, only handling food when we are well and keeping our tools clean are important rules that must always be observed. You should also remember that sanitizers are not generally effective unless used on a cleaned surface.The rule that is most important to remember as it relates to food pro-
duction is temperature control. With few exceptions, produce has a lon-ger shelf life when it is kept cool. A harvested plant begins to deteriorate as soon as it is cut and the faster we cool it, the less deterioration occurs. As soon as we allow the harvested food to warm up again, the deteriora-tion begins anew. Interestingly, most refrigerators are not cool enough. Do you have a thermometer in yours? When I sold product, I used an
“The beST place To STarT wiTh Food SaFeTy iS beFore iT leaveS your
conTrol. conTaMinaTed producT ThaT haS noT leFT your FaciliTy iS noT required To be reporTed becauSe iT
IR thermometer to find the coolest spot in my customer’s walk-in: I placed my basket there, and thus ensured a good shelf life.
hoW do We achieve loW risk oF Food contamination?The best place to start with food safety is before it leaves your control. Contaminated product that has not left your facility is not required to be reported because it does not yet pose a threat. After products leave your facility, the threat is real and must be reported. So, let’s focus on what to look for and what to do.The industry uses HACCP (Hazard and Critical Control
Points) to formulate prevention plans to avoid food contami-nation. There are third-party organizations (meaning neither you nor the government runs them) that will help construct these programs and certify that you meet the requirements. The HACCP system is a method to identify each hazard that could befall your product and show where it requires control. The steps supporting the method are fairly simple—first, assess the hazards; then determine the critical control points, the limits and monitoring procedures; and finally, establish corrective actions, verification procedures and a record-keeping system.As a grower doing your best to comply with these require-
ments, you will need to assess your preparedness:
1. Have you documented the required procedures for record keeping and maintaining food safety? And does everyone in your organization know their part?
2. Are your food safety needs included in your standard operating procedures? And do your SOPs for purchasing, receiving, packaging, inspection, clean-up and shipping include food safety protocols?
3. Are all your personnel adequately trained? And do they understand why food safety must be considered in every decision and practice?
4. Are you implementing all the procedures you are docu-menting? And are you auditing this periodically to prove your compliance?
5. Are there procedures in place to deal with the situation if a problem is identified by your organization or some-where further down the food chain? Who will implement a recall if necessary, who will be your spokesperson and what will be said?
“wiTh SpeciFic reFerence To hydroponicS, There are SoMe
Technical paperS available ThaT deScribe ThoSe huMan and planT paThogenS SoMeTiMeS Found in
more to learnWith specific reference to hydroponics, there are some technical papers available that describe those human and plant pathogens sometimes found in nutrient solutions and how to control them. There are many techniques described to combat plant pathogens, including UV sterilization, membrane filtration, a variety of chem-icals and some biological curbs, although much less information is currently available about human pathogens—their existence, abil-ity to survive, pathogenicity, entry into plants and prevention. This is a fertile (pun intended) area for exploration! MY
GFSI - www.mygfsi.comThe Global Food Safety Initiative (GFSI) is a collaboration between some of the world’s leading food safety experts from retailer, manu-facturer and food service compa-nies, as well as service providers associated with the food supply chain. It is coordinated by The Consumer Goods Forum, the only independent global network for
consumer goods retailers and manufacturers worldwide. It serves the CEOs and senior management of nearly 400 members, in over 150 countries.
LGMA - www.caleafygreens.ca.govThe California Leafy Greens Marketing Agreement (LGMA) is a model program that was created in 2007 to protect public health. Today, the LGMA is working to estab-lish a culture of food safety on leafy greens farms. A proven collaboration between government and farming communi-ties, the LGMA incorporates science-based food safety prac-tices and mandatory government inspections in an effort to assure safe leafy green products. Continuous improvement of the LGMA is achieved through required corrective action and industry education.
Cornell University GAPS - www.gaps.cornell.eduAn online course with everything you need to know.
UC-Davis Post Harvest - http://postharvest.ucdavis.eduThe best site to learn all about how “to reduce post-harvest losses and improve the quality, safety and marketability of fresh horticultural products.”
An online course with everything you need to know.
http://postharvest.ucdavis.eduhttp://postharvest.ucdavis.eduThe best site to learn all about how “to reduce post-harvest losses and improve the quality, safety and marketability of
LET THE WORMS DO THE WORKComposting with earthworms, or vermicomposting, is great for apartment dwellers who don’t have yard space, and for homeowners who don’t want to hike through snowdrifts to a backyard compost bin; and kids love keeping hundreds of wigglers for pets.
meats, garlic and potato peelings—what doesn’t cause odors or attract insects will simply take a very long time to breakdown. Egg-shells are essential to keep the bedding from becoming too acidic for the worms. Dry them well, crush them and sprinkle the tiny pieces over the top of the bedding.
temperatureRedworms will survive in temperatures from 41°F to 90°F but prefer it at or above room temperature. If you keep the worm bin outside in good weather, be ready to bring it in promptly when the temperature drops.
harvesting the CastingsRemoving the compost couldn’t be easier. You will notice that redworms hate the light; they’ll wriggle down into their bedding whenever you take the lid off the bin. Every few months—when the castings outweigh the bedding that re-mains—place the opened bin under a very bright light and give the worms 10 minutes to get well away from the surface. Then the coast is clear for scraping away the worm castings from the top layer.When you start to see the worms again, keep the light on
them, give them another 10 minutes to go deeper still and remove the next layer of compost. Keep going in this way until the harvest is done. Then fill up the bin with fresh bedding and start again.
outdoorsSome people build special worm pits to take advantage outdoors of the worms’ natural talents. To make a worm pit, all you have to do is dig a square hole a couple of feet deep and set a bot-tomless box over it. The compost materials and worms are tossed in here. You can keep adding organic waste as it accumulates.Keep the pile damp and dark and the worms will do the rest.
Remember to harvest your compost carefully—in bright sun-shine—to save the worms from an unpleasant fate. They won’t live long if they’re stranded in ordinary garden soil, dumped there with a forkful of compost. MY
Article supplied by the New Brunswick Department of Environment (www.gnb.ca)
GREEN THUMB GaRDENING
bedding whenever you take the lid off the bin. Every few months—when the castings outweigh the bedding that re-mains—place the opened bin under a very bright light and give the worms 10 minutes to get well away from the surface. Then the coast is clear for scraping away the worm castings from the top layer.When you start to see the worms again, keep the light on When you start to see the worms again, keep the light on
them, give them another 10 minutes to go deeper still and remove the next layer of compost. Keep going in this way until the harvest is done. Then fill up the bin with fresh bedding and start again.
outdoorsSome people build special worm pits to take advantage outdoors of the worms’ natural talents. To make a worm pit, all you have to do is dig a square hole a couple of feet deep and set a bot-tomless box over it. The compost materials and worms are tossed in here. You can keep adding organic waste as it accumulates.Keep the pile damp and dark and the worms will do the rest.
Remember to harvest your compost carefully—in bright sun-shine—to save the worms from an unpleasant fate. They won’t live long if they’re stranded in ordinary garden soil, dumped there with a forkful of compost. MYthere with a forkful of compost. MY
Article supplied by the New Brunswick Department of Environment (www.gnb.ca)
80 Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
LET THE WORMS DO THE WORK
Covered BinYour worms can live in a plastic bin or wooden box with plenty of air holes punched in the sides and top. Line the worm bin with nylon net to keep the small ones in. Holes in the bottom are needed for drainage, so you’ll want a tray under the bin. You may find it more convenient to have several smaller, more portable units rather than one large one.
BeddingLoam or black topsoil makes particularly good bedding material. Bedding can also be shredded newspapers, soaked to soften the edges (the worms will eat this too, so avoid colored inks and glossy paper) or a mixture of sawdust, peat, shredded leaves and soil.Fill the bin with about a foot of bedding, about as damp as a
wrung-out sponge—not soggy and not dry. With a lid on the bin and regular feeding of the worms, maintaining the correct moisture level shouldn’t be difficult.
wormsYou’ll want the kind of worms that are sold for fishing bait—red wigglers or brandling worms. Redworms normally live in barnyard manure piles and feed on fresh organic material. Your valuable little redworms will live quietly in their dark box and multiply rapidly. Just bury your leftovers in their bedding after each meal. It is unlikely that you will have too much waste to compost (redworms will eat their own weight in kitchen scraps and bedding each day). The cast-ings they produce are incredibly rich fertilizer and look like fine-textured soil. For each cubic foot of worm bin, plan on using a half pound of red wigglers (about 500 depending on their size).
FoodCoffee grounds, vegetables and fruit are the recommended food for worms. A varied diet is important. Avoid bones, dairy products,
Cultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoorsCultivate a perfumed paradise indoors
the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the the scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented scented
OasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisOasisMany of the hydroponic plants we grow are destined to become food or fla-
vorings, some are planted purely for visual effect and then there are those that appeal to another important sense—smell. Aromatic plants have been an impor-tant part of horticultural history ever since humankind discovered the vast array of scents and essential oils that plants could produce. While it can take tons of plant material to produce decent quantities of scent extract, growing aromatic
plants indoors can still be a pleasant and rewarding experience.
by dr. lynette morgan
82 Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
83Maximum Yield USA | October 2011 83Maximum Yield USA | September 2011
the importanCe of aromatiCsAromatherapy, which has long been part of some medical tradi-tions, is used by many people these days as a way of helping to deal with illness and daily stress and for relaxation and meditation. Medieval healers used to prescribe walks through scented gardens as a way of restoring health and spirits. Smell is one of the most powerful of our senses since it is linked to parts of the brain that deal with and process emotions. When the tiny volatile particles of aromatics in the air released by plant material are inhaled, they stimulate the olfactory receptor cells in a process termed olfac-tion. These impulses are then transmitted to the limbic system, which is connected to areas of the brain dealing with memory, breathing and blood circulation. How these systems are stimulated depends on the properties of the fragrance. Since smell directly stimulates the memory centers of the brain, certain scents can trigger memories and emotions. Many people also believe that certain plant aromatics can either energize, such as peppermint, or relax, such as lavender.
hydroponiCs and sCented plantsHydroponics offers a unique opportunity to grow aromatic plants. Woody, hardy aromatic species such as thyme, sage, rose-mary, lavender and scented geraniums will concentrate the aro-matic oils that produce their characteristic aromas when grown
Peppermint scented geranium releases an incredible scent when the leaves are crushed or warmed.
under slightly stressful conditions. Outdoors, this would mean high light levels, warm tempera-tures and moisture stress; however, we can replicate this effect in hydroponics by increasing the EC of our nutrient solution. Pushing EC in the root zone to much higher levels than we would normally use for leafy herbs reduces the amount of wa-ter taken up by the plant and held in the foliage, thus allowing the scented oils to become more concentrated. High EC levels combined with a free-draining medium and good lighting can intensify this effect to an even greater degree, and while less vigorous foliage growth will be recorded under these condi-tions the aromatics can be increased significantly to levels much higher than would normally occur under protected growing conditions.Hydroponic systems for scented plants can be as varied as
the plant species themselves. Many of the Mediterranean aromatic plants such as rosemary, sage and thyme perform best in very free-draining media—such as coarse perlite—as they are intolerant of overwatering. Succulent plants such as mint and lemongrass prefer a more moisture-retentive growing medium and will produce well in NFT, aeropon-ics or other solution culture systems, although their growth rate can be rapid and they have a tendency to become inva-sive if not regularly pruned, divided, cut back and generally contained. Nutrient solutions for aromatic plants can be as simple as vegetative formulations for young plants, switch-ing later to bloom mixes for those that produce flowers. A potassium supplement or booster is a good additive for many aromatic plants as they come to maturity combined with a gradual increase in EC as the plant develops.
Some strains of dianthus can not only have brilliant color but a strong scent as well.
Indoor growing conditions may also be varied. In general, warm, humid conditions
produce rapid and occasionally excessive foliage growth, which does not always correlate well with a high level of aro-matics in the plant. Slower growth often concentrates the aromatic compounds in many species.Most aromatic plants are also just as
prone to pests and diseases as other spe-cies, despite what is sometimes believed about aromatic compounds repelling insects. Whitefly in particular love basil plants and the aroma doesn’t appear to be any sort of deterrent. Aphids, thrips and mealy bugs are insect pests common to many herbs and other scented plants and need immediate control with soft sprays (such as those containing neem) so that the resulting plant material can be safely used for aromatherapy.
sCented plants for indoors spaCesA scented garden is the simplest form of aromatherapy—some plants may directly waft their scent into the air, particularly when conditions are warm and volatile oils are being naturally released. Other plants may need their foliage gently crushed to release sufficient aro-matics. Some natural plant scents can be very
Old fashioned petunias make a great display and will also perfume the air.
Aromatic herbs such as basil, lemongrass, thyme and oregano contain volatile aromatic compounds that contribute to the flavor profile of the foliage.
strong in a small enclosed area, while others provide delicate background notes of perfume.Most people assume that flowers are responsible for most of
the scent in the plant world but this isn’t necessarily the case. There are many plants with scented foliage and even some fruits contribute olfactory delights—aromatic oils such as lemongrass, peppermint and eucalyptus come from plant foliage, while lime, lemon and orange scents can be extracted from citrus fruit peel. Scented foliage has the benefit of providing aromatics at all stages of growth—even young seedlings tend to have some characteris-tic scent—whereas flowering can be rather seasonal or short-lived in other plants. However, for the indoor gardener looking for a splash of color and some scent, some of the dwarf annuals such as snapdragons can provide both within a relatively short timespan.
sCented herbsMost of us are familiar with at least some of the scented herb spe-cies since many also have culinary uses as well. The way we smell aromatics in plants is actually very closely linked to our sense of taste. Much of the flavor we associate with aromatic plants is actually due to the interaction of olfaction and taste that occurs when plant cells are broken down and volatile compounds released. Since we can only really distinguish five main elements of taste—salt, sweet, sour, bitter and umami—it’s the many thousands of volatile com-pounds we can detect through our sense of smell that contribute
The indoor scented garden can also look great as well as perfuming the air.
most to the actual flavor we think we are tasting in our food. The most common scented herbs grown for aromatic uses are sage, rosemary, thyme, basil, lemongrass, bergamot, mint, lemon balm, oregano, marjoram and lavender. Many herbs such as basil and mint demonstrate a range of scent overtones within the same species; varieties of basil include lemon, cinnamon, clove scented and Thai, while mint can be found as spearmint, peppermint, apple mint, chocolate mint and a few rarer varieties, each possess-ing its own unique aroma.
sCented geraniumsAmong fragrant plants well suited to indoor gardens are scented geraniums, tender perennials of the genus Pelargonium. These geraniums, which were widely grown in the Victorian era and had a range of uses from scented garden displays to perfumes, potpourris and cooking, are now coming back into fashion among gardeners.Scented geranium plants are widely available and most
need to be propagated from cuttings to retain their aromatic characteristics. The range of scents available within this plant species is truly incredible and sometimes almost hard to believe—most have strong and distinct aromas and some can even be used in baking! Scented geraniums perform well in hydroponics—they do need regular trimming to be kept compact and perform best in media-based systems with a moderately high EC level. Good airflow is also essential to prevent fungal disease and the plants generally don’t tolerate overwatering or a saturated growing medium. Keeping the growing medium slightly dry not only increases the intensity of the scent but also helps prevent disease.Some of the most popular scented geraniums fall into catego-
ries like rose scented, citrus scented, fruit scented, mint scented, spice scented and pungent scented, with a wide range of specific cultivars within each scent category. Rose scented geraniums (Pelargonium graveolens) are grown commercially for the extraction of essential oils from their foliage, which is used in the perfume
Dwarf annual flowering plants make a quick, bright and aromatic display indoors.
industry. Common rose scented varieties include Attar of Roses and Grey Lady Plymouth, although there are many others among the rose scented types also worth growing. Of the citrus scented geraniums some of the more common are Citronella (lime, lemon or orange scented) and Rober’s Lemon Rose. The most distinct and easy to grow of the mint scented geraniums is Pelargo-nium tomentosum, which has highly aromatic peppermint scented foliage and the advantage of being able to be propagated by seed. Other mint types include camphor rose, peppermint lace and chocolate mint. The fruit-scented types include apple mint, apricot and peach scented. Spice scented types can present some of the strongest aromas, with nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger and Old Spice, while pungent scented varieties have been described as having
Snapdragons have long been a scented garden favorite, however they grow just as well in hydroponic systems.
Mint comes in many forms from peppermint and spearmint to apple and chocolate mint.
pine, cedar, balsam, woody, spicy and lavender scents.
flowersFlowering plants provide a fairly diverse range of scents, colors and plant forms, but for indoor gardens dwarf varieties are often the best suited as they don’t need to be staked or sup-ported and they often flower much sooner than the taller types. Lavender is perhaps the best-known aromatic flower-ing plant and will grow indoors if sufficient light and space is provided. A dwarf strain such as lavender dwarf Munstead (Lavandula angustifolia)—which only grows to 12 inches high but produces that true olde English scent—is a good choice for indoor gardens.Of the dwarf annual or perennial flowers, those with the
most pronounced scents are the flowering stock (night scented varieties in particular), which include certain strains of dian-thus, lily, aquilegia, flowering tobacco (Nicotiana), sweet pea, old-fashioned petunia, wallflowers and violets. Many bulbs are also highly scented, and although the outdoor flowering season may be short for these species, they can be grown year-round with the use of artificial chilling (which involves refrigera-tion for several weeks) and warm indoor growing conditions. Favorite scented bulbs include freesia, hyacinths, tuberose, lily of the valley, jonquils, scented tulips, narcissi and scented lilies.In hydroponics, bulbs are best supported in either a free-
draining medium or in specific bulb-production systems, which hold the bulk of the bulb above the flow of nutrient solution to prevent rot. Bulbs are an excellent short-term flow-ering crop for many indoor situations as they can be forced to bloom out of season, and they provide compact but bright and fragrant displays.Fragrant gardening is a somewhat novel approach to utilizing
hydroponics in order to create relaxing and inviting indoor spaces where color and aromatherapy can combine. With some careful attention to the right blend of fragrances and foliage you can create spectacular ambiance in any indoor area. MY
Thyme has a high concentration of aromatic oil contained in the foliage.
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Italy is a country that seems to hold a certain allure for most people. After all, it’s the birthplace of the Renaissance, the movement that brought about a revolution in art and science. It’s a land that lovers dream of, a place of culture and the source of many of the world’s finest wines. And what better to accom-pany some of the planet’s best wines than some of the tastiest cuisine on earth? Italy is so well known for its superb cuisine that it has inspired food trends across the globe. There are not many places in North America where you cannot find good Italian food and the same is becoming true almost anywhere you may travel. Authentic Italian cuisine really is one of the world’s most desirable tastes and this can be traced back directly to the quality of the produce that is being used. Although many ingredients that are typical in Italian kitchens today are not originally native to Italy, they’ve found a home there due to their importation during the age of exploration; and the introduction of beautiful components such as tomatoes and basil from other countries has influenced modern Italian cuisine profoundly. It is no wonder many gardeners are now trying to bring the Italian garden home and indoors when Italian food makes use of so many wonderful ingredients!
“the San Marzano toMato iS conSidered by MoSt chefS
worldwide to be the abSolute beSt Sauce toMato and it MuSt therefore be included in any
In this installment of our International Edible Gardens series we will discuss a few of the vegetables, herbs and greens that are typi-cally found in Italian cuisine.The tomato has become synonymous with Italian cuisine and is
used in pasta sauces, pizza sauce, salads and bruschetta; it is cooked, eaten sundried or just enjoyed plain. It seems there are thousands of uses for tomatoes in Italian cuisine, but this has not always been the case. In fact, tomatoes originated in South America, most likely in what is now modern day Peru. It is argued that tomatoes were first brought back to Europe by the Italian explorer Chris-topher Columbus (working for the Spanish) or by the Spanish explorer Hernando Cortez. Apparently these first tomatoes were a far cry from the tomatoes of today, however—the Italian word for tomato is pomodoro, which translates to golden apple. Through generations of selective breeding the tomato has changed over the years and there are now countless varieties to enjoy, many with very different character-istics and their own distinct flavors.The classic Ital-
ian tomato is the Roma and of all the different Roma tomato varieties there is one that truly stands out—the San Marzano tomato is considered by most chefs worldwide to be the absolute best sauce tomato and it must therefore be included in any indoor Italian garden. It is also known to be the only tomato sauce to be allowed on true Neapolitan pizza.San Marzano tomatoes can be grown easily indoors in soil,
hydroponics or any other available medium. They are a bright red vine/plum tomato similar to the common Roma tomato, but thinner and a little pointier. San Marzano tomatoes are rich in flavor with few seeds, making them ideal for sauces and canning. They reach about six feet high and usually require staking to avoid plant damage. This particular tomato is an indeterminate variety, meaning the fruit will develop gradually, and the plants will mature in 75 to 85 days. The ideal pH range for San Marzano to-matoes is between 5.8 to 6.8 in soil and 5.8 to 6.4 in hydroponics. For these tomatoes to thrive indoors they require lots of light and so should be grown under HID (high intensity discharge) bulbs. These light bulbs best imitate the conditions of a plant exposed to full sunlight, but they’re strong—so keep them far from the fragile seedlings and gradually bring them closer to the plants as they mature. When the plants are more mature you can keep the lights roughly a foot away from the plant tops.
generations of selective breeding the tomato has changed over the generations of selective breeding the tomato has changed over the generations of selective breeding the tomato has changed over the generations of selective breeding the tomato has changed over the generations of selective breeding the tomato has changed over the generations of selective breeding the tomato has changed over the generations of selective breeding the tomato has changed over the generations of selective breeding the tomato has changed over the
To keep San Marzano tomatoes in their vegetative phase requires 18 hours of uninterrupted light followed by six hours of uninter-rupted darkness, while to have your tomatoes bloom indoors you’ll have to change the photoperiod to 12 hours of uninter-rupted daylight followed by 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness. San Marzano tomatoes are open-air pollinated and are consid-ered an heirloom strain. To pollinate them indoors you’ll have to be creative—by touching the end of a small paintbrush to each flower several times a day you can effectively spread pollen from flower to flower, pollinating the plants. Soon after this process the plants will begin to produce delicious San Marzano tomatoes, which can then be picked when ripe and enjoyed.There are a variety of different edibles typically grown in an
Italian garden and greens must be included in any respectable plot, so we’ll have to discuss a few types of Italian greens that can be grown indoors easily. One of the seemingly endless varieties of Italian lettuces is the Mortarella Verde, an Italian romaine variety with long green leaves that form a tall, compact head. Mortarella Verde is considered very tasty and tender.Another great lattuga or lettuce is Lollo Bionda, a medium-
green loose-leaf type with thick, ruffled leaves. A flavorful variety with a slightly bitter taste, Lollo Bionda is known to have an ex-cellent shelf life, meaning it can survive several days in the fridge or in any cool space.Lollo Rossa, another loose-leaf variety, is Lollo Bionda’s red
cousin, a tight rosette of blood red or violet ruffled leaves with a pale-green base. The Lollo Rossa is considered to be quite bold, with a slight bitterness and a subtle nutty flavor.Most Italian greens have good nutritional value. They can con-
tain vitamins A and C, folate and iron, usually have a multitude of antioxidants and some even contain quercetin, a natural antihista-mine. They are generally used in salads and as soup garnishes.Most varieties of Italian lettuce can be grown indoors quite
easily, although they grow best outdoors with full sun and partial shade throughout the day. To meet these lighting re-quirements indoors you can grow your lettuce under an array of high-output T5 fluorescent light bulbs.
“one of the SeeMingly endleSS varietieS of italian lettuceS iS the Mortarella
verde, an italian roMaine variety with long green leaveS that forM a tall,
You can also grow them under HID light bulbs as long as the bulbs are kept a fair distance away from the leaves, as lettuce tends to get leaf burn from the heat of the lights. Italian lettuce grown in soil or soilless mixes can tolerate a pH range of 5.6 to 7.5 but will do best in the pH six to 6.8 range. When grown in hydro-ponics, the ideal pH range is between six and 6.5. Harvesting the lettuce can be done a few leaves at a time or a whole plant at once, but by only taking a few leaves per plant you can allow your lettuce to continue growing and producing nutritious leaves.No Italian garden would be complete without at least one deli-
cious herb. Although Genovese basil is one of the most common-ly used herbs in Italian cuisine, like the tomato it was not native to Italy, but originated in India and was brought to Italy through the spice trade. Genovese basil—or sweet basil as it is more com-monly known—is more aromatic than its Thai cousin and the oval leaves are broad, crinkled and green. Genovese basil is used in all kinds of Italian dishes as a seasoning, in pasta and pizza sauces and salad dressings, and it is the key ingredient in pesto sauce.Basil can be easily grown indoors and does well in soil or soil-
less mixes and various hydroponic media. It does well under an array of high-output T5 fluorescent light bulbs or under HID bulbs, and flourishes best when the pH range stays between 5.8 and 6.8 in soil or soilless mixes and between pH 5.8 and 6.6 in hydroponics. Genovese basil can be harvested fresh a few leaves at a time by pinching off the top of the branches and using the top leaves, causing the plant to become bushy and allowing more leaves to grow. Basil can also be harvested all at once and dried, preserving the leaves so that they can be used in recipes through-out the year. Hang the basil upside down in a dark dry place for several days—the leaves will retain their wonderful flavor best when dried in the dark.There are really too many great ingredients in Italian cuisine to
mention more than a few in this short article. The examples we discussed are some of the most common, but there are so many other wonderful varieties that did not make the cut. Zucchini, beans, oregano, various tomato varieties and all sorts of other Italian vegetables, greens and herbs can all be grown indoors quite easily. Italian cuisine features a wealth of succulent and healthy ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and rewarding choice for any home grower. MY
ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and rewarding choice for any home grower. rewarding choice for any home grower. rewarding choice for any home grower. rewarding choice for any home grower. ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and ingredients, which makes starting an Italian garden a popular and rewarding choice for any home grower. rewarding choice for any home grower. MY
Forget conventional soil gardens planted in the earth or even
indoor gardens on four by eight foot grow tables; up in the
air is where gardening is at.
The word vertical usually invokes a sense of up—and when it comes to sustain-able farming for the future, up is exactly where some people think we need to go. The concept of vertical farming em-braces much of what we know about green roofs and green walls, but it also goes far beyond those relatively small-scale upward movements. A vertical farm is more than just a wall or a roof repur-posed for the growth and maintenance of plants; it is an entire building—preferably purpose-built from the ground up—de-signed to facilitate food production in a sustainable, environmentally sensitive way.The ideal vertical farm is a self-
contained structure with integrated agricultural systems, environmental controls, shipping and handling facilities,
laboratories and maybe even living quar-ters for the workers and a daycare center for their children. Vertical farms will not soon replace the traditional land-based farms that most of the world’s population currently depends on for its food sup-ply, but they might have a lot to offer for the future. Much work needs to be done before vertical farming can become a viable option for mass food production in our cities—but if visionaries like Dickson Despommier have anything to say about it, another agricultural revolution might be happening sooner than anyone had previously thought possible.
The viSion oF dickSon deSpoMMierDickson D. Despommier is both a
microbiologist and what some might call a futurist. He has spent many years as a professor of environmental health sciences and as a professor of micro-biology in the Columbia University College of Physicians and Surgeons in New York. He is also the world’s leading proponent of using vertical farming to address some of the planet’s most press-ing problems: issues like world hunger, food security and the protection and healing of the environment.The vertical farming idea first came
up in one of Dr. Despommier’s classes in 1999, during discussions about pos-sible solutions to a wide range of en-vironmental problems. Since then, he and 106 graduate students have contin-ued to develop their ideas on how to
bring vertical farming out of the conceptual stage and into physical and economic reality.Although the vertical farming concept floated around without
much fanfare for over a decade, it finally received widespread attention after Despommier decided it was time to write a book about it. Published in 2010, Despommier’s The Vertical Farm, Feeding the World in the 21st Century lays out a bold vision for what could be possible through the coordinated efforts of archi-tects, scientists, governments and private industry. Conceptually, there is nothing unrealistic about the design and construction of vertical farms. Many of the technologies involved—such as hydroponics and aeroponics and automated control systems—as well as the advanced materials and energy conversion methods needed to make one work are already either already well devel-oped or now on the verge of commercial viability.A vertical farm is much more than a hydroponic greenhouse
erected in the middle of an urban landscape or attached to the
side of a city grocery store. Unlike a typical greenhouse, a verti-cal farm can be tall. Vertical farms offer many of the advan-tages of hydroponic greenhouses, such as reduced water use, year-round production and protection of crops from weather, but they can also make a major contribution to increasing the availability of locally grown food—with all its advantages—since they are designed to be located in areas of high population density. The Vertical Farm Website (www.verticalfarm.com) also lists many other potential benefits of vertical farming (VF), some of which include:• All VF food is grown organically: no herbicides, pesticides
or fertilizers• VF virtually eliminates agricultural runoff by recycling
black water• VF returns farmland to nature, restoring ecosystem func-
tions and services• VF greatly reduces the incidence of many infectious dis-
eases acquired at the agricultural interface• VF converts black and gray water into potable water by
collecting evapo-transpiration• VF adds energy back to the grid via methane generation
from composting non-edible parts of plants and animals
“A vertical farm is much more than a hydroponic greenhouse
erected in the middle of an urban landscape or attached to the side of a city grocery store.”
• VF converts abandoned urban properties into food production centers
• VF creates sustainable environments for urban centersWhen The Vertical Farm appeared in late 2010, Dr. Despommier
knew of no large-scale vertical farms in existence anywhere in the world, but some people had clearly already started down that path. Since then, Dr. Despommier’s book and the ideas it contains have apparently struck a chord in many places around the world. “You can see that some countries get it,” says Dr. Despommier, adding “the architects of the world are on board, believe me.” Things are changing rapidly and as of mid-2011 a number of impressive projects have already been constructed or are in the planning stages. Let’s take a look at some of them:
nuvege, inc.Nuvege (www.nuvege.com) is a company dedicated to advanced methods of food production. Their proprietary growing systems feature hydroponics, special lighting and carbon dioxide en-richment and they produce high-quality lettuce in commercial volumes. A major focus of the company is to produce food that has a very low bacterial load in order to reduce or eliminate al-together the incidence of food-borne illness. Although Nuvege is not in the vertical farm construction business, their systems are specially designed to be integrated into vertical farms. The company operates a facility in Kyoto, Japan to test and demon-strate their technologies that Dr. Despommier describes as being “747 hangar-sized.”“You are going to see a lot more development in Japan
because of the Fukushima incident and the desire to protect agriculture from radiation,” predicts Dr. Despommier.
planTlabThis Dutch operation (www.plantlab.nl) located in Den Bosch, The Netherlands, has been testing a prototype vertical farm for several years now and they are presently building a larger, com-pletely enclosed (which means no natural light in the growing area) facility. Their approach is decidedly high-tech, incorporat-ing custom-built growing environments, advanced automation and control and mathematical modeling of plant growth. The company claims that their use of specific wavelengths of red and
“things are changing rapidly and as of mid-2011 a number of impressive projects have already been constructed or are in the
blue LED lighting results in better plant growth than can be achieved using natural light—according to Despommier, Plant-Lab believes that certain frequencies of natural light are actually inhibitory to plant growth. And vertical farms don’t necessar-ily have to go up; vertical implies down as well, and Plantlab is extending their newest facility several stories underground.
Suwan, SouTh koreaThis facility, funded and operated by the government of South Korea, has been in full-blown lettuce production since March of 2011 and implements many of the ideas that Dr. Despom-mier describes in The Vertical Farm. Such ideas include recy-cling of water, strict attention to cleanliness and anti-contam-ination procedures, organic growing methods and innovative lighting techniques.
alpha FarMThis Manchester, UK project is planned for an unused pre-existing five story building and their projected crops include broccoli, tomatoes, onions, carrots, strawberries and mush-rooms, all produced in time for the Manchester International Festival in 2013.
“you are going to see a lot more development in Japan because of the Fukushima incident and
the desire to protect agriculture from radiation.”
Other projects to keep an eye on include the EDITT Tower in Singapore, a three story building project in Jackson, Wyo-ming and a proposed aeroponic project in Masdar City in the
United Arab Emirates. Although no tangible results have been achieved in Canada yet, the governments of Surrey, Vancouver and Victoria in British Columbia have all re-leased official statements in support of vertical farming.What about research and development? Certainly more
needs to be done to improve existing designs, generate new design concepts and test and improve actual VF systems. Enter the University of Nottingham, UK. According to Dr. Despommier, a cadre of about 20 researchers, including professors and graduate students in the departments of biol-ogy and agriculture, have organized themselves into what might be called a ‘VF working group’. Their goal is to build a prototype VF and they are currently soliciting govern-ment funding for their proposed research.The vertical farm has a lot to offer and the concept has
gained impressive traction since the appearance of The Verti-cal Farm, the posting of VF videos on YouTube and presenta-tions by Dr. Despommier at prestigious venues around the world. Based on the rapid growth we are seeing today in the planning and construction of vertical farms, it probably won’t be long before tall buildings featuring futuristic de-signs—lush with greenery and bustling with activity—begin climbing into the world’s skies. MY
acknowledgeMenTSThe author wishes to thank Dickson Despommier for taking the time to discuss the most recent developments in vertical farming around the world.
reFerenceSAnonymous, 2011, “Manchester should soon be eating fruit and veg from the UK’s very first vertical farm”, The Northerner Blog, The Guardian, http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/the-northerner/2011/jul/26/vertical-farm-manchester-withenshawe-urbed-dickson-despommier-columbia-university, (accessed August 1, 2011)
Despommier, D. D., 2010, The Vertical Farm, Feeding the world in the 21st Century, Thomas Dunne Books, St. Martin’s Press, New York, NY
Despommier, D. D., 2011 “The Rise of the Vertical Farm”, verti-calfarm.com, http://www.verticalfarm.com/blog?169, (accessed July 31, 2011)
Alter, L., 2011, “Real Live Vertical Farm Built in South Korea, Churning Out Lettuce”, treehugger.com, http://www.treehugger.com/files/2011/07/lettuce-look-at-a-working-vertical-farm-korea.php, (ac-cessed August 1, 2011)
114 Maximum Yield USA | October 2011114 Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
AvAnt-GArdeninG
the presence of light and therefore is useless, even harmful, in the dark period. In order to provide the plants with the opti-mal CO
2 concentration for their growth, many gardeners turn
toward CO2 enrichment. In addition to improving the yields,
maintaining the recommended CO2 concentration in the air
will also have the advantage of reducing the production time, accelerating flowering, improving the quality and the quantity of fruits and flowers, and may even diminish the incidence of some pathogenic fungus.
Different species’ optimal co2 concentrations
SPECIES
Di�erent species’ optimal CO2 concentrations
Tomato
CucumberLettuceRosePoinsettia
Recommended CO2 concentrationduring daytime (ppm)
1000
12001000 - 15001000 - 1200600 - 800
CO2
PUSHING CO
PUSHING
In nature, the average CO2 proportion in the air comes close
to 400 ppm (parts per million), and can largely vary depend-ing on natural or manmade CO
2 production. The air in the
garden should be close to this concentration; below this limit, the photosynthesis and the growth considerably slow down and might even stop around 200 ppm or less. This situation
might happen in an isolated indoor garden with no CO2
added. The plant will then consume the ambient CO
2 until it’s all gone.
The majority of plants will appreciate concentrations
between 700 and 1,000 ppm during the daytime (light period) and around 400 ppm at nigh time (dark period). Why are these ideal
conditions different from day to night? The photosynthesis process
occurs only in the presence of light. The CO
2 enrichment is then necessary only in
by Isabelle lemay agr. and mélIssa léveIllé
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
115Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
Not enough CO2 is harmful, but too
much is just as bad. Equal or superior concentrations to 1,500 ppm are gener-ally less effective and less profitable and can even have a negative effect on some crops. One of the most serious impacts is an overflow of CO
2, which reduces
the plant’s stomas opening, resulting in a reduction of the CO
2 absorption and a
limitation of transpiration. The transpi-ration is a key process for vegetal species because the water and nutrient absorp-tion depends on it. Far from serving the plant’s interest, an excess in CO
2 slows
down the growth and, in some cases, can even cause leaves necrosis and curling or again provokes flower malformations. Tomatoes and cucumbers are particu-larly sensitive to high CO
Avoid - useless, non profitable andharmful to crops
When choosing to enrich the garden with CO
2, adjusting the garden’s temperature will
be necessary. In fact, the optimal temperature for the plant’s growth increases by a few degrees (as much as 8º) when the air is enriched with CO
2. Consider that the
plant’s metabolism works faster when it benefits from a CO
2 supplement; CO
2
allows plants to produce better, but to do so, they need to consume more. Every need, like water and nutrients for example, will be increased. To fully take advantage of CO
2 enrichment, we
have to pay attention and take care of our plants to provide them with every-thing they need. MY
“The majority of plants will appreciate concentrations between 700 and 1,000 ppm during the daytime (light period) and around 400 ppm at nigh time (dark period). “
When choosing to enrich the garden with , adjusting the garden’s temperature will
be necessary. In fact, the optimal temperature for the plant’s growth increases by a few degrees (as much as 8º) when the air is
. Consider that the plant’s metabolism works faster when it
supplement; CO2
allows plants to produce better, but to do so, they need to consume more. Every need, like water and nutrients for example, will be increased. To fully
enrichment, we enrichment, we have to pay attention and take care of our plants to provide them with every-
It is also the time to finish your notes for the season. Some people are blessed with superior memories and are able to recall each plant ever grown, back for years on end. For the rest of us though, detailed notes can be invaluable, espe-cially when the time comes to plant next year’s garden.Gardening is an ongoing learning process. Over time, gar-
deners learn to refine techniques, select plants that do well in the available environment and estimate expected yields. Being able to quantify your results goes a long way toward determining if a given change is helping or hindering your quest for the maximum yield.One good way to figure out what to do when you’re plan-
ning what’s next for your garden is to take a look at what has worked—and what hasn’t—in past seasons. If careful notes are taken over a period of years, plants that perform well can be repeated. I’ve tried several different tomato va-rieties over the years, for instance, and two of my favorites are Black Crim and Big Rainbow. The first year that I grew them they were raised with several other different tomato cultivars, but by recording the names of the cultivars I tried that season I was able to avoid having to flip through pages and pages of seed catalogs looking for the right bluish-meated tomato and the right yellow one with red stripes the
following year.Another
reason to keep a garden diary is to help keep track of when activities should be done. If the planting date is recorded and it becomes apparent in your harvest inventory that a plant was started too early or too late, the following year’s planting can be adjusted without hav-ing to rely on memory. If you’re fertilizing according to a weekly regimen, nutrient changes can also be scheduled in advance.Record keeping isn’t difficult once you get into the habit.
A good garden record keeping program should include both plant labeling and a garden notebook.From the moment of purchase, plants should never be without
a label of some sort. From seed to seedling tray, through plant-ing, growing and harvest—each plant should be clearly identi-fied. If seeds are saved, they should be marked so the cycle can
following year.Another Another
reason to keep a garden diary is to help keep track of when of when activities should be done. If the planting date is recorded and it becomes apparent in your harvest inventory that a plant was started too early or too late, the following year’s planting can be adjusted without having to rely on memory. If you’re fertilizing according to a weekly regimen, nutrient changes can also be scheduled
following
Another Another reason to keep a garden diary is to help keep track of when of when activities should be done. If the planting date is recorded and it becomes apparent in your harvest inventory that a plant was started too early or too late, the following year’s planting can be adjusted without hav-ing to rely on memory. If you’re fertilizing according to a
continue next season.Plant labels should be as waterproof as is practical;
permanent markers on plastic stakes
are a popular choice. A less thrifty option for
those of us with questionable handwriting is to make use of a handheld
label printer, which makes a very legible plastic label. The name of the plant (and the particular plant,
if breeding) on the label is all that is required, since the rest of the plant information will be in your garden diary.When the plants are first started, make an entry in the diary
with information about them. For example, you might record: 5/10/2011: Started tomato Big Rainbow from F1 saved seed indoors. Indeterminate, bushy, 90 days. Said to have rich smoky flavor. Expected harvest starting 8/10/2011.Then you’d record an entry on 8/10/2011—90 days later: Big
Rainbow tomatoes ripe and ready for harvest. Flavor is rich and fruit is large and meaty.Exactly what information is recorded is up to the individ-
ual gardener. The garden notebook doesn’t have to be any-thing fancy; it just needs to be something to write notes in: a calendar, a dated logbook, a computer spreadsheet or even index cards will do. Depending on the size of the garden and the attention to detail shown by the gardener, weekly diaries can be a nice choice, as can spiral-bound notebooks. If enough space is left between the entries the same notebook can be used for multiple years, which provides the added
benefit of being able to see what was happening in the gar-den on the same day last year.For the more gadget-minded gardener, notes can be taken
with a computer pad or laptop. With a reasonably simple database all the information one could care to collect can be stored with these devices and referred back to for a lifetime. If you do choose to make use of an electronic device to take
garden notes, though, special care should be taken to avoid con-tact with water, mud, fertilizers, sap, juice or any of the other myriad of potential hazards that lurk in the garden. Personally, I
continue next season.Plant labels should be as waterproof as is practical;
permanent markers on plastic stakes
are a popular choice. A less thrifty option for
those of us with questionable handwriting is to make use of a handheld
label printer, which makes a very legible plastic label. The name of the plant (and the particular plant,
if breeding) on the label is all that is required, since the rest of the plant information will be in your garden diary.
continue next season.Plant labels should be as waterproof as is practical;
permanent
plastic stakes are a popular choice.
A less thrifty option for those of us with questionable
handwriting is to make use of a handheld label printer, which makes a very legible plastic
label. The name of the plant (and the particular plant, if breeding) on the label is all that is required, since the rest of
“if careful notes are taken over a period of years,
“list bug sightings, remedial measures, new equipment and seeds purchased. log temperatures—especially
heat waves or cold snaps.”
garden diaries aren’t For sissies
122 Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
ist bug sightings, remedial ist bug sightings, remedial
prefer a good old-fashioned pen and paper diary, because I can leave it perma-nently stationed with my tools in
the garden and if it gets dirty or wet I may swear a little, but I won’t ac-tually cry over it—and if I were to spray my lap-top with a garden hose, this might not be the case!Keep some blank
space in the front or the back of the diary for more general, less date-specific observa-tions and records such as equipment purchase dates and nutrient schedules. Keep records of the equipment you are using in your garden: the make, model, cost, purchase date and so on. Make sure to keep any receipts or warranty information in a safe place. Give each piece of equipment an iden-tifying code or number—knowing exactly how many years a piece of equipment lasted can help with replace-ment purchase decisions and your records will show if a more expensive piece of equipment lasted longer than an inexpensive one, for example.Recording start dates for items that wear out over time
can help budget for replacements. Indoor gardens re-quire periodic bulb replacements, for example. When a new bulb is installed the replacement date can be noted in the diary in advance as a reminder—the gardener doesn’t have to remember how old a bulb is, they’ll come across the entry at replacement time.Always record major events that occur in the garden.
Recording the appearance of first flowers when you start a new crop will give you a pretty good idea of when to expect the plants to start flowering next year. For indoor gardens, note any adjustments you make in the light cycle for photoperiod-sensitive plants. List
123Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
bug sightings, remedial measures,
new equipment and seeds pur-chased. Log temperatures—especially heat
waves or cold snaps.Gardeners experimenting with different nutrient and additive
recipes can keep detailed logs of the products they apply and use the empirical information they gather to decide which is best. Baffling bug infestations need only be agonized over once—the solutions, once discovered, can be entered in the di-ary and guesswork will be a thing of the past.Written data can be augmented with photographs (especially
useful when taken from the same angle and level of magnifica-tion) every week. These photos will illustrate how the current year’s plants compare with those from the previous season and with failed or bumper crops from past years.
As anyone who has ever overplanted zucchini can attest, knowing what sort of harvest to
expect can influence how many of a particular plant to start. At harvest time, mark down which plants had a surplus and which ones came up short.
To determine how efficiently you are growing your crops a simple formula can be used to determine the ounces gained per day. If Black Krim tomatoes were planted on 5/23/2011 and stopped producing on 9/23/2011, for instance, then the number of days between the two dates is 123. If 15 ounces of tomatoes were grown during this time, then the ounces grown per day
As anyone who has ever overplanted zucchini can attest, knowing what sort of harvest to knowing what sort of harvest to
expect can influence how many of a particular plant to start. At harvest time, mark down which plants had a surplus and which ones came up short.
To determine how efficiently you are growing your crops a simple formula can be used to determine the ounces gained per day. If Black Krim tomatoes were planted on 5/23/2011 and stopped producing on 9/23/2011, for instance, then the number of days between the two dates is 123. If 15 ounces of tomatoes were grown during this time, then the ounces grown per day
garden diaries aren’t For sissies
“gardeners experimenting with different nutrient and additive
recipes can keep detailed logs of the products they apply and use the empirical information they
would be 0.12 ounces (or 15 divided by 123). Knowing this value can be handy when comparing seasons or the productivity of one cultivar with another.If all other factors are equal and using fertilizer brand ‘A’
results in growth of 0.10 ounces per day and using fertilizer brand ‘B’ results in .14 ounces per day, then serious con-sideration should be given to using brand ‘B’ on a regular basis. If one year a gardener uses soil pots and the next a hydroponic system, the data gathered in his diary can help him to choose which system he should use the follow-ing year.One nice thing
about keeping detailed records of this nature is that it will allow a gardener to compare plants started early with plants started late. Particularly in indoor gardens—where season length is artificially controlled—be-ing able to compare seasons of differing lengths can be an asset in determining which conditions are the most productive.Your diary entries can be flowery and verbose or short and
terse—even the most minimal entries can be learned from. If facts haven’t been recorded, though, once the particulars have faded from your memory they are gone forever.A good garden diary can bring a real sense of order and
progress to your growing efforts. You won’t waste time trying things that didn’t work in the past and you’ll be able to easily access solutions that helped you with big problems in years gone by. Your garden diary isn’t just interesting reading mate-rial—it’s actual proof that you are becoming a better gardener with every passing year. rial—it’s actual proof that you are becoming a better gardener with every passing year. MY
garden diaries aren’t For sissies
brand ‘B’ results in .14 ounces per day, then serious con-sideration should be given to using brand ‘B’ on a regular basis. If one year a gardener uses soil pots and the next a hydroponic system, the data gathered in his diary can help him to choose which system he should use the follow
One nice thing about keeping detailed records of this nature is of this nature is that it will allow a gardener to compare plants started early with plants started
basis. If one year a gardener uses soil pots and the next a hydroponic system, the data gathered in his diary can
with plants started late. Particularly in indoor gardens—where season length is artificially controlled—be-ing able to compare seasons of
help him to choose which system he should use the follow
One nice thing
detailed records of this nature is of this nature is that it will allow a gardener to compare plants started early with plants started
help him to choose which system he should use the follow-
that it will allow a gardener to compare plants started early
131Maximum Yield USA | October 2011 131Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
WHAT TO DO WHEN CILANTRO BOLTSWhen gardeners see the white cilantro flowers, they wonder if they can simply cut them off. Unfortunately, once cilantro bolts, the leaves rapidly lose their flavor. Cutting the cilan-tro flowers off will not bring the flavor back to the leaves.Instead, let the cilantro flow-
ers go to seed. The seeds of the cilantro plant are the spice coriander and can be used in Asian, Indian, Mexican and many other ethnic recipes.
Instead, let the cilantro flow-Instead, let the cilantro flow-Instead, let the cilantro flowers go to seed. The seeds of the cilantro plant are the spice coriander and can be used in Asian, Indian, Mexican and Asian, Indian, Mexican and many other ethnic recipes.
succession planting. This is where you plant new seeds every one to two weeks so that as one set of cilantro plantings start to bolt, the next set will be ready to harvest.
3. If growing outdoors, plant cilan-tro during cool weather. Early spring, late summer and early fall are the best times to plant cilan-tro. If you plant in late spring to mid summer, your cilantro will bolt quickly in the heat.
4. Harvest your cilantro leaves fre-quently. The more you harvest your cilantro, the more likely you are to nip immature flowering stalks, which will delay cilantro flowering.
5. Mulch cilantro and plant it tightly. It is not the heat of the air that causes cilantro to bolt, but rather the heat of the soil. Mulch will help keep the soil cool and retain moisture. Plant-ing cilantro tightly will shade the ground it grows in, which also helps to keep the soil cooler.
For more gardening tips and tricks visit www.gardeningknowhow.com or check out www.gardeningknowhow.com/questions
WHY DOES CILANTRO BOLTCilantro grows best in cool, moist condi-tions and will bolt rapidly in hot weather or a hot room. This is a survival mecha-nism for the cilantro plant. The plant knows that it will die in hot weather and will try to produce seeds as quickly as possible to ensure that the next generation of cilantro will survive and grow.
HOW TO KEEP CILANTRO FROM BOLTING
The first thing to understand is that there is no true way to
keep cilantro from bolt-ing. Plants are designed to do one thing and that is to
reproduce. You are fighting nature. But, there are several
things you can do to significantly lengthen the time before the cilan-
tro plant produces flowers:
1. If you’re growing in a warm environment, you can buy slow bolt cilantro. This is cilantro that has been bred to withstand higher temperatures.
2. No matter what kind of cilantro you grow, you should practice
A guide to the major four nutrient elements.
Tomato plants are considered heavy feeders, having a relatively high requirement for most of the essential plant nutrient ele-ments. Based on this nutritional characteristic, tomatoes are frequently used as test plants for evaluating the nutritional qual-ity and fertility status of growth media and for conducting plant nutrition studies. Not all growers are aware that the formulation of the Hoagland/Arnon nutrient solution was derived based on the elemental content found in the tomato plant.For the commercial production of tomato fruit, careful
regulation of the essential plant nutrient elements—particularly the four major elements, nitrogen (N), potassium (K), calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg)—is essential in order to obtain high yields of quality fruit. Even though tomatoes are being grown around the world under a wide range of soil and climatic conditions, the same basic fertilizer recommendations apply. For commercial field production of tomatoes for both processing and the fresh market, N and K fertilizer rates are critical in determining fruit yield and for ensuring that the quality required for market acceptance is achieved from the judicial use
of these two fertilizer elements. In addition, the soil ratio among the elements K, Ca and Mg, known as the Hartz ratio (www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/tomato/hartzratiocalculator.htm) is frequently used to assess the probability for the occurrence of fruit color disorders in tomato fruit.For the hydroponic grower, including the home vegetable
gardener growing in soil, let’s look at how these four major elements interact and affect tomato plant growth, as well as fruit yield and quality.
nitrogen (n)There exists a narrow range between deficiency and excess with this element, as N is required for vigorous vegetative plant growth, but in excess can promote vegetative instead of repro-ductive growth, reducing flower and fruit set as well as adversely affecting the quality of produced fruit.The tomato plant itself becomes more susceptible to disease
and insect invasion as the N content of the plant increases. Supplying N to the plant as needed, in small aliquots sufficient
by Dr. J. Benton Jones, Jr.
132 Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
AttAck of the GArGAntuAn
tomAtoGrowinG BiG
133Maximum Yield USA | October 2011 133Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
to sustain good overall plant growth without stimulating excessive vegetative growth, is one way to minimize this potential.The form of plant-available N will also
affect plant growth and fruit quality. In general, N absorption by plant roots is enhanced when there exists some ammo-nium (NH
4) in the rooting media, which
assists in maintaining the cation/anion
balance within the plant and mini-mizes the potential for nitrate accumu-lation in conductive plant tissues. The ammonium cation (NH
4+) is a strong
competitive cation, however, and can
interfere with the root absorption and function of both the Ca2+ and Mg2+ cations, with this interference being most evident with the occurrence of blossom end rot (BER) in tomato fruit. Therefore, some recommend that ammonium-nitrogen be made available to the tomato plant during its vegetative growth period, but not during fruit set and develop-ment. In soil environments, unless
ammonium-nitrogen is being applied in irrigation water, it is usually easily and quickly nitrified to nitrate-nitrogen. My hydroponic experience would suggest that a NH
4/NO
3 nutrient solution ratio
not greater than 1:10 is sufficient to sustain vigorous vegetative growth that should not result in the potential occur-rence of BER in fruit.When growing tomato plants hydro-
ponically, nutrient solutions that contain high levels of nitrate-nitrogen (NO
3-N),
will not only contribute to excessive vegetative growth but will also enhance the uptake of K in order to maintain the proper cation/anion balance within the plant. This can be illustrated using the standing-aerated hydroponic growing method by monitoring the change in the NO
3 and K concentrations in solution
when a vigorously growing tomato plant is placed into a minimum volume of a complete nutrient solution (one that contains all the essential elements). The concentration of both ions will decline in a relatively short period of time, while the other two essential major elements, Ca and Mg, will change little in that same time period.
potassium (K)This essential plant nutrient element correlates with fruit quality factors that affect flavor and acidity and is a factor that contributes to long-term keeping quality as well. The K+ ion is readily root-absorbed; therefore, its concentra-tion in a nutrient solution can have a significant affect on the cation balance within the plant, interfering with the function of Ca and Mg. When K is in
attack oF the gargantuan tomato
“the tomato plant itself becomes more susceptible to disease and insect invasion as the n content of the plant increases.”
excess it can induce a deficiency of either Ca or Mg—Mg more likely—even when there is sufficient Mg in the nutrient solu-tion. Depending on the growing conditions, K supplied in small aliquots as needed, as is frequently done with N, would avoid the possibility of any K excess and the potential for induced Mg and Ca plant deficiency.
Calcium (Ca)Calcium deficiency is associated with the fruit disorder known as blossom end rot (BER). Calcium is required for maintaining cellular integrity and when there is a deficiency of this element in a developing tomato fruit the cells at the blossom end will lack stability and cellular decay will occur, manifesting as dark or black discoloration at the blossom end. Although BER is the result of a lack of sufficient Ca—needed to maintain cellular integrity—the triggering mechanism is plant stress, usually moisture stress.The Ca2+ cation is not readily root-absorbed and its move-
ment within the plant is in the transpiration stream. If the plant is under water stress or evapo-transpiration from leaf surfaces is low, the uptake and movement of Ca within the plant will be impaired, thereby increasing the potential for the occurrence of BER. To avoid or minimize its occurrence some recommend the application of a solution containing Ca on the plant foliage
and the developing fruit. However, Ca is not easily absorbed through either the leaf or fruit cuticles—and even if absorbed, Ca will not easily move from the point of absorption since it primarily moves within the transpiration stream. Therefore, movement is up the plant, with little flow latterly or downward from one portion of the plant to another.To prevent or minimize the occurrence of BER, sufficient Ca
must be available in the rooting medium as well as in proper balance among the major cations (K+ and Mg2+), including the ammonium cation (NH
4+). It is also essential to ensure that
those conditions that would result in plant stress—particularly moisture stress—be prevented.
Magnesium (Mg)This element is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and its plant physiology relates to those processes associated with photo-synthesis, particularly energy-related functions. I classify tomato as an Mg-sensitive plant because its deficiency will affect fruit yield and quality in both soil and hydroponic growing systems.When Mg is deficient it can also be a factor in the develop-
ment of BER in fruit since its deficiency creates stress within the plant, which then can become the trigger when insufficient amounts of Ca are present.The three cations K+, Ca2+ and Mg2+ are competitive cations,
with Mg being the least competitive of the three and therefore more likely to be deficient than the other two even when the rooting media or nutrient solution formulation is considered to be sufficient in Mg. For hydroponic tomatoes I have increased the Mg content in the Hoagland/Arnon’s nutrient solution formulation by 50 per cent.
“Calcium deficiency is associated with the fruit disorder known as blossom end rot.”
This 89 page, 7 chapter book, Hydroponic Hand-book: How hydroponic growing systems work, is available on amazon.com for $19.95 and a Kindle version also available. The book describes how 6 different hydroponic growing systems work, the ba-sis for the formulation and use of nutrient solutions, plus information on the basic principles of plant physiology that correlate with how plants can be grown hydroponically. The beginning development of this growing technique is discussed, bringing to current applications. A chapter on hydroponic diag-nostics is included. A must book for all who want to know about hydroponic growing principles and ap-plications, whether a seasoned grower or beginner.
In my experience of observing green-house tomato enterprises, most tomato crops are deficient in Mg—even though plants may not be presenting any leaf symptoms. However, it is not unusual to observe such leaf symptoms on older leaves when the tomato plant is setting and maturing fruit. In order to prevent Mg deficiency, even when there are no visual leaf symptoms, the Mg content in
“to avoid or minimize [Ber] occurrence some recommend the application of a solution containing Ca on the plant foliage and the developing fruit.”
the rooting medium or nutrient solution formulation must be adequate to ensure that the Mg2+ cation is in sufficient con-centration to compete with the other cations.
ConclusionSince tomato fruit production occurs over a fairly long period of time, growers should be monitoring—by means of pe-
riodic plant leaf analysis—the elemen-tal status of the tomato plant, with the critical time periods being just before flowering and initial fruit set, and then again when the first fruits begin to mature. Any insufficiencies uncovered by the assay results can be corrected if the plants are being grown hydro-ponically, while plants being grown in a rooting medium that is being
periodically irrigated can be supplied through the irrigation water, with those elements in excess being with-held. Those situations where the assay results indicate an imbalance among the major elements can be difficult to correct if a supply already exists in the rooting medium, however. Some experts have suggested that beginning with minimum sufficiency levels in the rooting medium or nutrient solution will allow for relatively easy adjust-ment during plant growth and fruit set and maturity.There are various recommendations
regarding what plant part to sample for analysis. My recommendation is to col-lect the end leaflet on a recently ma-tured leaf, sampling at least 25 plants in order to obtain a representative sample. A whole leaf analysis can be difficult to interpret, since the whole leaf is a mix of stem, petiole and leaflet tissue—three tissue types that vary significantly in elemental content.And what about phosphorus (P), since
it is also a major element and can sig-nificantly affect plant growth? Phos-phorus deficiency is not common when growing tomatoes; in fact, its excess is far more common, since most fertilizer recommendations supply more than is needed and most nutrient solution for-mulations are also high in the element. High P will interfere with the plant function of zinc (Zn) and iron (Fe), frequently presenting as a slight chloro-sis of newly emerging leaves, but with maturity the chlorosis will normally disappear. Chlorosis occurrence and the rate of disappearance are good indicators of the degree of P excess. Tomato plants are actually fairly tolerant of P in excess unless they are under stress caused by inadequate moisture, high light inten-sity or high air temperatures. Phospho-rus root absorption is also affected by root medium temperature and declines sharply when the rooting temperature is less than that of the ambient air. MY
Managing moisture levels is one of the most crucial factors to consider when it comes to getting the most out of your plants. Over-watering can cause a number of fungal and bacterial infections, which can lead to plant stress, stunted growth or even plant death. While some say that it’s not possible to overwater plants using hydroponic methods, this is not actually true—even in hydropon-ics plants are still susceptible to problems caused by too much water.
Root rot is characterized by yellow leaves and plant wilting caused by water-logged roots. While most issues related to overwatering occur in the root zone, problems can travel up to the crown and stems of plants, too. Prevention is key in these situations, because the healthier a plant is overall, the better able it is to resist infectious diseases of all kinds.The first rule in root rot preven-
tion is exclusion, which means that the
pathogen (disease) organisms should be prevented from contacting your plants wherever possible. Pathogens often enter a grow room when plants are first brought into the environment from the outside. For this reason, purchasing clones from another grower who may have diseases or pests in his garden is often a risky practice—if root rot exists anywhere in his garden, spores could be present in the reservoir, which fed your
plants right before you purchased them. Fungal spores may lie dormant in water, infecting a weak plant within 15 minutes of exposure without revealing any symptoms until a week later.Another major factor in preventing root rot is providing ad-
equate drainage. Regardless of which hydroponic medium you choose, it should drain well. Evaluate how long the medium holds water, then devise a watering schedule to best accom-modate your plants: you should allow the root zone to dry to around 50 per cent or less before another watering or feeding occurs. The amount of time it takes roots to dry adequately will vary considerably, depending on the grow medium, the envi-ronmental conditions, the plant species—and even from plant to plant within your garden. To be safe, avoid scheduling feedings near the end of the daily light cycle.
root rot: the water management battlerot: the wawaw ter ater a management battleattleaoo
“Root rot is characterized by yellow leaves and plant wilting caused by waterlogged roots.”
These side-by-side alfalfa plants show healthy roots versus diseased roots. Photo courtesy of Dr. Stephen Marek, plant pathology, Oklahoma State University
Roots should be the healthiest part of your plants and you should make an effort to examine them throughout their life cycle. While it may be difficult to observe the color of your roots depending on the specific hydro system you have chosen to employ, healthy roots are very visibly white. Although some nutrient solutions may darken the roots to a small degree, the rule of thumb is that the browner the roots are, the higher the risk of problems.If you can’t see the roots, then pay attention to the growth rate
of the plants—if the rate slows drastically, obviously something is wrong. An easy way to track the growth rate is to use the simple and effective wooden dowel method:1. Use a waterproof marker to mark one inch increments on
the dowel.
“Many growers are able to successfully remove only the affected parts, but it is better to play it safe and remove the entire plant before it can infect the whole garden.”
These two gerberas show the distinction between diseased roots and healthy, robust roots. Photos courtesy of Sophia Kamenidou, plant pathology, Oklahoma State University
2. Insert the dowel into the container with your pot and mark the plant height on the dowel rod.
3. At regular weekly intervals mark the plant height on the dowel. Now each week you should see a similar or greater increase in plant height until the plant begins to mature.
Most growers will encounter the problem of root rot at some point. When it happens, there are a few things that can help control the outbreak. First and foremost, remove the infected plant! Many growers are able to successfully remove only the af-fected parts, but it is better to play it safe and remove the entire plant before it can infect the whole garden. Next, clean and dis-infect walls, benches, floors and equipment with a mild bleach solution and let everything dry completely—fungal spores are transmitted through water and can survive in the smallest of water droplets. Finally, apply a fungicide to the remaining plants.There are many varieties of fungicides and some contain
substantial amounts of heavy metals like copper or silver ions whether they possess the organic label or not, so be very cau-tious about applying them directly onto plants—particularly if any part of the plant is grown for consumption. Always read the entire label and follow the instructions exactly when using any pesticide, organic or not. When controlling root rot, any fungicide should be used as a drench (top watered) or run
These healthy roots are literally exploding from the grow block just two weeks after transplant. Nice wrapping! Photo courtesy of Shane Hutto, technical advisor, Grodan Inc.
through your irrigation system. Top watering is recommended for fungicides, as a bottom-feed system may not reach all areas where fungal spores exist.Now that you have done everything you can do, just wait and
see if it works—sometimes infections are too far gone for you to be able to save the plants. In the meantime, learn what to do to prevent this problem recurring in the future. Reevaluate your watering schedule to determine if you could lower the frequency or duration of feedings without drying the plants out too much.Consider this: plants grow as the roots dry out. The process of
using the water and nutrients they take up through the roots stimulates growth. Now think about your own body—it’s not the act of eating that grows muscles, but rather the exercise and burning of the calories in the food, which stimulates muscle growth. The idea here is that the more you allow plants to dry between feedings, the better they should grow. There is a point where too much dryness can cause unwanted stress or even kill the plant, so it is a bit of a balancing act, certainly. But it’s just a matter of figuring out how long your plants can go between waterings and still flourish. With just a little trial and error, you’ll soon see positive results. MY
“the more you allow plants to dry between feedings, the better they should grow.”
Winter in North America can reach freezing temperatures. For avid gardeners,
hydroponics provides a welcome respite from the winter cold, as does a short
vacation in a warm climate. To be able to do both would be utopia and I thought with today’s technology, there must be a way. An additional bonus would be to
supply a second hobby, cooking, with fresh vegetables and herbs.
To achieve the degree of independence I wanted from day-to-day maintenance of my hydroponics system, I needed to:• Accommodate different nutrient mixes for different species
at different stages of growth.• Have flexible programmable timers for lights, pumps
and fans.• Have control over temperature and humidity.• Use off-the-shelf hardware and plumbing components.• Have comprehensive reports of system activities.• Have e-mail notification of system activities, especially
problem situations.
I decided to develop software for a control program, as there was none available with sufficient bells and whistles. The pro-gram evolved over a year or so and has now reached a stable state. Of course, enhancements are always being added. It’s the nature of engineering.
System Overview - The system has four building blocks:• personal computer, software and USB enabled digital/
analog interface• reservoir and nutrient pumping units• lighting for seedlings and the main grow area• fans, a humidifier and a heater• grow units
I developed two programs. The first, a Nutrient Optimization Module (NOM), calculates an optimal nutrient mixing strategy for up to three stages of growth for a mix of species.Research suggested macro- and micronutrient strengths could
vary considerably with species and growth stage. I gathered all the data I could on nutrient requirements for common species on the Internet. I then obtained nutrient constitu-ent concentrations for various suppliers of one, two and three part formulas. A mathematical model in the NOM determines the optimal mixing strategy for the System Control Program (SCP) to administer.
The tray contains three – 10 inch pots with 50/50 vermiculite/perlite. A delay can be set to provide air in roots to be refreshed.
The SCP is the workhorse. It manages the nutrient mixing for up to four separate species groups and controls the grow room environment. The initial set-up included: tomatoes and peppers, chives, nasturtium and dill; basil and parsley, and sage; thyme and savory. This provided an opportunity to have the system take the tomatoes and peppers through growth, flower and final stages while maintaining the rest in growth only. The number of days for each growth stage was set and the nutrient mix calculated by the NOM was entered into the SCP.Timers are an integral part of a hydroponics system. Photo-
periods for each stage of growth can be preset. HID lights are automatically synchronized to the preset period and can be turned on/off at specific times or be tied to sunrise/sunset. Seedlings are started in a small customized ebb and flow unit. A timer controls the T5 light period and a second controls the intermittent flood cycles.Choosing a growing medium and containers was a challenge.
The first configuration consisted of four – 40 by nine by four inch trays. A cover for each tray was made with spaces for three
Main: The main system status screen shows two of four active timers, the first of which is the HID light controlled by the stage of growth.
Option Nutrients, top: On this dialog, the nutrient manufacturer is selected, pump quantity and assignments are made and tank capacities are set.
Timer, above: The timer dialog is used to set up start, stop and intermittent cycles. Here, the ebb and flow pump for seedlings will have 21 hour period with four evenly spaced on/off cycles.
– 10 inch pots. The pots were fitted with root guard in the bottom and filled with 50/50 perlite/vermiculite. In the bot-tom of the pot, a circle of porous tubing allows air to be pumped into the root zone. When full, the pots sit in nutrient about 1.5 inches above the bottom.Maintaining nutrient levels and con-
centration is the function of the nutrient mixing unit. The amount of nutrient required to maintain 1.5 inches above the bottom of the pots is approximately two quarts. When the level drops below the pot bottom, a time can be preset to allow full drainage and aeration of the roots in the pot before refilling the tray. When this time has passed, the reservoir pump fills a mixing chamber with two quarts
of basic nutrient. The basic nutrient formula is the minimum amount of each of the three parts required for all four channels. The flora micro component was a constant for all channels. Once the mixing vessel signals full to the SCP, two peristaltic pumps add any required make-up of grow and bloom. A solenoid opens and allows the mix to flow to the appropriate channel by gravity. Since the first run, I have used other grow units and will, no doubt, try other types. Deep water culture for lettuce and other leafy
Elements, left: This dialog shows the mixes added to lettuce, the concentrate of which was calculated with an estimate of the pH and EC based on previous measurements in the options nutrient dialog.Graph, below: Graphs are available for a wide range of parameters. Temperature for a four day period is shown here.Schedule, bottom: Each channel can have up to three growth stages specified. For each stage, the nutrient strength is provided along with the associated photoperiod.
veggies works very well. Future tests will be made with aeroponics and Ein-Gedi, a derivative of aeroponics that recirculates nutrient in a misty spray.No system is complete without reports
and data gathering for later analysis. Graphs of temperature, humidity and nutrient usage are available. A log of all events associated with mixing, timers, and pumping can be viewed. The main screen provides a summary of current float, pump and solenoid states; grow room environment; and nutrient tank levels. For each refill, the concentration of macro and micronutrient constituents is calculated.
ResultsThe 10 days of warmth during my holi-day away from the winter was very wel-come and no e-mails were received. The holiday was most relaxing knowing my hydroponics system was self-maintaining.Mixing the nutrients in small batches
representing about 50 per cent of the total volume in the trays virtually elimi-nated the need to constantly deal with pH and TDS issues. All plants grew admirably. MY
inSide each Seed iS The Magic oF SeaSon’S paST JuST waiTing To be unleaShed. every TiMe we preServe a Seed, we preServe a liTTle biT oF ThaT Magic in The hope ThaT iT will Show iTSelF For yearS To coMe.
163Maximum Yield USA | October 2011 163Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
cleaning
weT proceSSing and drying: This method is used for seeds that are embedded in the flesh of fruits and berries. Depending on the spe-
cies, the seeds, juice and flesh of the fruit will need to go through a fermentation process where bacte-ria or yeast will destroy many seed-borne diseases that could affect the next generation.Seeds should be washed to remove
them from the encasing flesh. An easy way to do this is to place the seed, juice or flesh mixture into a large pail or bowl containing double the water as the volume of seed/pulp mixture. Stir well and keep pouring off the dirty water, adding clean water and repeating until only clean seeds remain.Once the seeds are clean, they can
be placed to dry on a non-stick surface, such as a cookie sheet. Do not use paper or any surface that the seeds might stick to. Also do not dry seeds in the sun, because tempera-tures exceeding 95°F will almost certainly guarantee the impotence of a seed.dry proceSSing and winnowing:This technique is for plants that produce seeds in pods or husks, such as peas and beans. Gardeners must allow the pods or husks to dry with the seeds still inside. Once seedpods are dry they can be threshed, a pro-cess that frees the seeds by breaking their covering. This is typically done by rubbing or beating the pods until
the seeds are released. Place all the seedpods into a sac or pillowcase and rub your hands together until all the pods release their contents. Be careful not to get too rough with the seeds, because they can be damaged when rubbed or beaten too hard.The seeds must now be separated
from the debris of pods and husks through a process called winnow-ing. If there is wind, one simply picks up a handful of seeds and pod debris and drops it. The seeds, being heavier than the pod debris, should fall to the floor while the pod debris is blown away with the wind. Winnowing is repeated until all that is left are clean seeds. Another approach to winnow-ing is to use different sized screens to separate seeds. To perform the screen technique, gardeners first use a screen with holes large enough for the seeds to pass through. Then a second screen smaller than the seeds is used to filter out the remaining debris.
labeling and SToring
High temperatures can render good seeds useless; high humidity can al-low microorganisms to grow and ruin seeds. To avoid high humidity, only store dried seeds to five to 10 per cent moisture. All seeds should be placed in containers that are airtight. The ideal solution is to place dried seeds in a labeled envelope or Zip-loc bag and then place it into a Mason jar. The Mason jar or other airtight container should be stored in a place out of the sun where temperatures are not likely to fluctuate. An ideal storage place is a cold-room or root cellar. Note: If seeds are stored in a cold cellar for any longer than two years, the seeds will barely germinate and leave few sur-vivors. There is a way to ensure your seeds thrive for five years or more. The way to achieve this is to freeze your seeds. Note: If seeds are not thorough-ly dried, excess moisture will expand when frozen and destroy the seeds.
O! Say Can
yOu Seed?by MaTT lebanniSTer
This will happen to seeds with more than eight per cent moisture.A sure way to tell if a seed is dry is to
seal it in a jar with double its volume in silica gel for seven days. Silica gel beads are used by manu-factur-ers to re-move excess moisture and can be reused indefinite-ly. Simply dry the silica gel in an oven at 93°F for eight hours. After being sealed for seven days with the silica gel, the seeds should have just the right amount of moisture to be frozen safely. Another option is to test the seeds before freezing them by hitting a seed with a hammer or something heavy. If the seed shatters, it is dry enough. If the seed mashes, then they need to dry longer. MY
ing and drying: This method is used for seeds that are embedded in the flesh of fruits and berries. Depending on the spe-
rub your hands together until all the pods release their contents. Be careful not to get too rough with the seeds, because they can be damaged when rubbed or beaten too hard.The seeds must now be separated
from the debris of pods and husks through a process called winnow
“high TeMperaTureS can render good SeedS uSeleSS; high huMidiTy can allow MicroorganiSMS To grow and ruin SeedS.”
A sure way to tell if a seed is dry is to seal it in a jar with double its volume in silica gel for seven days. Silica gel beads are used by manu-factur-ers to re-move excess moisture and can be reused indefinite-ly. Simply dry the silica
YOU TELL US
Doktor Doom’s Grigg Kellock debunks some of the myths associated with pyrethrin-based products and details the benefits of this natural, earth-friendly product.
Maximum Yield (MY): What products in the Doktor Doom line are you excited about right now?Grigg Kellock: The Doktor Doom one-two punch Spider Mite Knock Out elimination products.
MY: What are your Spider Mite Knock Out products made of and used for?Grigg: Doktor Doom Spider Mite Knock Out is made with 0.20 per cent pyrethrin. This is a very strong concentration of pyrethrin. There is no Piperonyl butoxide in the product, which works as a synergist with pyrethrin. The pyrethrin knocks the bugs down and Piperonyl butoxide can be considered the knife in the back, while Doktor Doom’s Spider Mite Knock Out is the uppercut. Pyrethrin without the synergist Piperonyl butoxide is approved for organic gardening programs; refer to OMRI for the exact requirements.It is very important that people trying to eliminate spider mites use our one-two punch elimination program systematically, otherwise they will not get the results they are looking for and blame the products for not working when in fact it was misuse of the products that didn’t obtain the desired result.
MY: What is pyrethrum?Grigg: Pyrethrum is an extract from the oils found in the seeds of chrysanthemum flowers; once it is refined it makes pyrethrin.
MY: How does pyrethrin work?Grigg: Pyrethrin excites the nervous system of insects and kills them on contact. Pyrethrin flushes out and drives insects to move as they know that if it contacts them they will die. Insects will lay eggs to procreate (when faced with certain death)
so using the one-two punch elimination program does take time and effort to obtain maximum results. Pyrethrin does not kill larvae or eggs so repeated applications are extremely important. Refer to Doktor Doom Application Tips at www.doktordoom.com
MY: Are pyrethrin products eco-friendly and safe to be used around humans and animals?Grigg: Pyrethrin-based products are very environmentally friendly and safe to use around humans and pets. As these products are designed to kill insects it is very important to follow label instructions. These instructions are provided to protect humans and animals from any excessive exposure to the products. Pyrethrin biologically dissipates into the environment in a matter of hours after being exposed to light, air and humidity, and has zero residual activity.
Are pyrethrin products eco-
164 Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
Grigg Kellock
MY: What other products do you offer in North America that growers will be excited about?Grigg: Doktor Doom is working on a couple of other insecticide products to help growers eliminate all sorts of other insects in addition to spider mites. Our existing products are also excellent for controlling thrips and other plant-eating insects found in gardens.
MY: What are your Total Release Foggers product made of and used for?Grigg: Doktor Doom Total Release Foggers are made with .40 per cent pyrethrin and 2.0 per cent Piperonyl butoxide. The Doktor Doom Foggers are part two of the Doktor Doom one-two punch elimination program. The foggers should be used after an application of Doktor Doom Spider Mite Knock Out has been applied to the underside of the plant canopy. This initial application of Spider Mite Knock Out will not only kill all the insects (not the eggs or larvae though) on the underside of the canopy, but will also make the insects move to the upper surfaces of the plant canopy; this is where the Total Release Fogger comes in as the overhead bomb and wipes out all the living insects that crawled away from the initial uppercut application of Spider Mite Knock Out.
MY: What food crops can fogger be used on?Grigg: Doktor Doom Total Release Foggers are safe to use on all food crops up to three days before harvest. Doktor Doom Spider Mite Knockout can be used up to the day of harvest.
MY: What can Maximum Yield readers expect from Doktor Doom in the near future?Grigg: Doktor Doom will be introducing some organic fertilizers that we have been testing for a
couple of years. We have been working closely with the government to substantiate any claims that may
come with these products. Doktor Doom has built its reputation on high quality products that work so one
thing is for sure, do not expect us to market products that don’t meet our standards!
MY: How does Doktor Doom support local causes and community building?Grigg: Doktor Doom supports several non-profit
charities locally in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada that feed, cloth and shelter children, the disabled and adults that are
in need. We also support our local Cross Cancer Hospital as we have all been touched by this terrible disease.
In addition to this, my wife Philippa and I also volunteer for another local non-profit charity that provides children in
inner city schools with a hot breakfast and helps to provide formal wear to youth that would otherwise not attend their prom. We also volunteer for the Edmonton Folk Music Festival, which provides all sorts of people the ability to afford to go and see great music.
MY: What strategies has Doktor Doom implemented to lessen their environmental impact on our planet?Grigg: We started our company promoting and marketing environmentally friendly and earth safe insect control products. Since the inception of Doktor Doom several governments and countries have banned all sorts of harsh chemicals. This includes the EPA and Health Canada. Doktor Doom is going to continue to educate people on the pros of using pyrethrin-based products. We firmly believe that these are the most effective products with the least amount of environmental impact available to consumers today.
MY: Where can growers go for educational materials on using your products and to learn more about your company?Grigg: Our website www.doktordoom.com has application tip sheets on how to use our products. We refer people to these application tips daily; it is very important to read and practice what you have read to obtain maximum results from using our products. These product application tip sheets are also available from our wholesalers and should be available in most indoor garden centers. MY
In the heart of one of the agricultural capitals of the world, Shawn Johnson and Rio Finds The Feather opened Roots Grow Supply. The intention was to provide Fresno, California and the Central Valley with a hydroponics and indoor gardening store with long hours, exceptional customer service and a fully stocked warehouse teaming with products. Since opening, Roots has had to move to a new location twice the size of the original 3,000 square foot space to accommodate the growing demand for indoor gardening sup-plies. A second warehouse was also opened in Oakhurst, California. Having to compete with well established nurseries, commercial farming supply stores, corporate hardware stores with gardening centers and a handful of established hydroponics stores in the area, Roots had to set themselves apart to gain an edge.“In this business being progressive is the name of the game,”
Shawn explains. “This industry is perpetually advancing in tech-nology and we want to do the same on the retail end both in our advertising and customer service.”
Maximum Yield USA | October 2011168
Roots Grow Supply is more than just a product supermarket. Extraordinary growth decorates the shop inside and out, serving as demonstration gardens for customers to learn from.
Rio and Jeanette’s three-year-old son Wylde adds an element of fun and play to the store’s atmosphere as he frequently interacts with customers.
Gardeners of all experience levels come into Roots Grow Supply, from beginners to seasoned veterans and everything in between, with a myriad of questions ranging from the difference between organic and synthetic nutrients to how hydroponics work. Shawn and Rio are both experienced growers and have come up with a few ways to help their customers better understand the products they carry. Running side-by-side comparisons on tomato plants with different nutrients, the shop’s own blend of compost tea and a control of reverse osmosis water allows people to see first-hand how different nutrients perform. One of the more noticeable displays is the sunflowers in front of the shop. In one 45 gallon pot you see an 11 foot tall sunflower; in a seven gallon pot next to it much smaller sunflowers are growing. The shop also offers free cloning classes that walk customers through the process. “People are much more inclined to believe what they see,” Shawn says. “I can explain how something works for hours, but once a person sees what the product does they understand it immediately.”Roots has a working ebb and grow display with tomato plants,
green beans and peppers growing in it. They also have a clear EZ-Clone that shows how a cloning machine works from a mechani-cal standpoint as well as a Turbo Klone display that shows how the machine works on cuttings throughout the cloning process.With so much agriculture in California’s Central Valley, pests
are in abundance; everything from white flies and root gnats, to caterpillars and spidermites. It’s not uncommon to hear customers asking for a wide variety of pesticides, some legal and others not. Many of our customers grow edible plant for human consumption and it can be difficult to explain the reasons for avoiding some of these pesticides while a customer’s crop is being ravaged by pests. However, Roots always recommends safe and natural alternatives. They carry 100 per cent vegetable-based pest solutions as well as beneficial insects such as spidermite predators, green lace wings, ladybugs and nematodes.
The staff at Roots likes to keep things fun and laid back. Joe, Mike and Casey-John make up the rest of the staff at Roots and are all musicians. The guys like to play all types of music; hip-hop, country, heavy metal, reggae, funk and mariachi that you can hear throughout the store and through the speakers in the front playing to the plants. It’s not uncommon to walk into the shop and see someone riding a skateboard from one side of the shop to the other to fill dead hours and take a few minutes to unwind. Once a year the shop celebrates its anniversary by putting on a free barbecue, with live entertainment and a bounce house for the kids. Rio’s family—that includes his girlfriend Jeanette, their one-year-old son Legend and three-year-old son Wylde—love these celebrations and Wylde can be seen weaving through the attendees on his tricycle.All of the staff is excited to learn new things. “It’s great to watch
our customers grow over time. One day we’re explaining basics like transplanting, then a few months later they’re coming in tell-ing us stuff they figured out and that we have to try,” says Shawn. Being in such an ag-minded community gives them a wealth of opportunities to gain knowledge from all types of growers raising vegetables, almond orchards, vineyards and so much more. They also look forward to attending the Maximum Yield Indoor Gardening Expos.After being open a little under two years Roots Grow Supply
has taken off and Shawn and Rio‘s vision of an indoor gardening store with a massive inventory has come to fruition. “It definitely wasn’t easy being the new kid on the block,” says Shawn, “but now we have customers comparing us to other heavyweight indoor gardening stores in the San Francisco area and that is an awesome feeling.” As far as the future is concerned, Shawn and Rio believe that as the market grows so will Roots and they’ll continue to make the heart of California a little more green.
Article written by Casey Burton for Shawn Johnson and Rio Finds The Feather. MY
169Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
An impressive sunflower display, which includes an 11 foot beauty, adorns the shop’s frontage.
maximum yield USa November will be available November 1 for FREE at selected indoor gardening retail stores across the country and on maximumyield.com
Subscriptions are available at maximumyield.com/subscriptions.php
COMING UP INNOvEmBER
aloe ProPagaTIon for ProfITaloe plants are known for their healing properties. They also make great profit crops when sold as babies. provide proper growing conditions and some tough love, and watch your aloe plants and profits grow.
lIghT basIcs proper lighting is one of the most important facets to a successful indoor garden, and indoor gardeners should understand at least the basics.
PlanTs for PeTs Did you know you can feed your furry, finned and feathered friends hydroponic snacks. They’re high quality, safe and spray-free.
healthy roots, sub-irrigation, winterizing the grow room, heirloom peppers and more.
178 Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
9.9.
3.3.
DO YOU KNOW?DO YOU KNOW?
5.
It was once believed that the oxygen released from photosynthesis came from the breakdown of carbon dioxide.
It is argued that tomatoes were first brought back to Europe by the Italian explorer Christopher Columbus (working for the Spanish) or by the Spanish explorer hernando Cortez.
1.2.
4 .
6.
7.8 .
pushing EC in the root zone to much higher levels than we would normally use for leafy herbs reduces the amount of water taken up by the plant and held in the foliage, thus allowing their scented oils to become more concentrated.
The Center for Disease Control and prevention reports that 70 per cent of all food borne disease results from contact with contaminated individuals.
Even though tomatoes are being grown around the world under a wide range of medium and climatic conditions, the same basic fertilizer recommendations apply.
vertical farms don’t necessarily have to go up; vertical implies down as well, with garden facilities around the world extending several stories underground.
Fungal spores may lie dormant in water, infecting a weak plant within 15 minutes of exposure without revealing
any symptoms until a week later.
Nitrogen is in every amino acid in a plant; thus, it must also be part of every single protein in a plant as well as being a major component of the chlorophyll molecule.
whiteflies love basil plants and the aroma doesn’t appear to deter them.
10 .a harvested plant begins to deteriorate as soon as it is cut. The faster we cool it, the less deterioration happens.
11.Nitrogen absorption by plant roots is enhanced when there exists some ammonium
Purple Mountain Organics100-7010 Westmoreland Avenue,Takoma Park, MD 20912877-538-9901
MASSACHUSETTS
Greenlife Garden Supply481 Boston Road, Unit 4,Billerica, MA 01821978-262-9966
GYOstuff – Grow Your Own2400 Massachusetts Avenue,Cambridge, MA 02140617-945-1654
Harvest Moon Hydroponics29 Washington Street, Route 1Foxboro, MA 02035800-660-6977
LiquidSun® MA8 Lynwood Avenue,Holyoke, MA 01040413-539-6875
Green Path Garden Supply276 West Main Street,Northborough, MA 01532508-393-4181High Tech Garden Supply560 Boston Turnpike (Rt.9)Shrewsbury, MA 01545508-845-4477
New England Hydroponics15 D College Hwy. (Rt. 10),Southampton, MA 01073888-529-9025
Worm’s Way Massachusetts121 Worc-Providence Turnpike,Sutton, MA 01590800-284-9676
MICHIGAN
Growers Outlet7720 Clyde Park SWByron Center, MI 49513616-878-4444
188 Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
MAXIMUM YIELDdistributors Retail Stores listed alphabetically by city in each state.
Flower Factory, The2223 East Highland Road Highland, MI 48356248-714-9292
Hydro Vision 2858 E Highland rdHighland, MI 48356
Holland Hydroponic Outlet 587-40 East 8th StreetHolland, MI 49423616-298-7395
Synthetic Sun Hydroponics, LLC705 S., LoxleyHoughton Lake, MI 48629989-422-2800
Hydro Vision 1247 e Grand River Howell, MI 48843
Green Forest Indoor Garden Supply, LLC.2555 N. State(M-66) Rd.Ionia, MI 48846 616-523-6111
Horizen Hydroponics4646 W. Main Street,Kalamazoo, MI 49006269-567-3333
Kalamazoo Indoor Garden450 W. Maple,Kalamazoo, MI 49001269-344-2550
HTG Supply-Lansing Michigan2815 East Grand River Ave.Lansing, MI 48912(517) 580-0555
Horizen Hydroponics5425 W. Saginaw HighwayLansing, MI 48917517-323-ROOT
Superior Growers Supply19582 Middlebelt Road,Livonia, MI 48152248-473-0450
Northern Lights Hydroponic and Garden Supply29090 Campbell rd.Madison Heights, MI 48071248-439-6269
BIg Creek Hydroponics555 Old Little Lake Road,Marquette, MI 49855906-249-5297
Growing Consultant2260 Apple Avenue,Muskegon, MI 49442231-773-5600
Sunshine Supply Co. 5800 East Pickard Street,Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858989-775-3700
Flo-N-Grow.214 N. 2nd Street,Niles, MI 49120269-683-1877Super Grow288 W. MONTCALMPONTIAC, MI 48342248-24SUPER (78737)
Green Earth Hydroponics8127 Portage Rd.Portage, MI 49002269-342-4190
Light Green Water3661 Highland Road, Waterford, MI 48329248-681-0001
Hydrospot 34236 Michigan Avenue, Wayne, MI 48184734-722-1285
Indoor Eden11090 Hi Tech Dr. Whitmore lake MI 48189810-355-1465 Synthetic Sun Hydroponics, LLC 3218 W. Houghton AvenueWest Branch, MI 48661989-345-8800
G.C. IIWhitehall, MI 49461231-893-2400
G.C. II1006 E. Colby St. Suite AWhitehall, MI 49417231-893-2400
AAA Hydroponics LLC22 50th StreetWyoming, MI 49504616-249-8338
Cultivation Station – Grand Rapids, The 4907 S. Division Ave., Wyoming, MI 49548616-855-4440
Stealth Hydro15 E. Cross Street, Ypsilanti, MI 48198866-998-1916
MINNESOTA
Duluth Hydroponics26 W 1st StreetDuluth, MN 55802218-341-7253
Indoor Gardening10 NE 3rd Street, Faribault, MN 55021507-209-1546
Brew and Grow8302 Highway 65 NE., Minneapolis, MN 55432763-780-8191
Interior Gardens115 -1620 Central Avenue NE,Minneapolis, MN 55413800-498-4178; 612-870-9077
Midwest Hydroponics5825 Excelsior Blvd.,St. Louis Park,MN 55416 888-449-2739
Eden Indoor Organic Gardens831 Highway 75 NorthMoorhead, MN 56560218-477-EDEN (3336)
American Garden Supply 601-6th Avenue, North,Princeton, MN 55371 763-631-0543Q
Still-H2O Inc.14375 North 60th Street,Stillwater, MN 55082651-351-2822
Eco Garden Supply800 Transfer Door 25 in rearSt. Paul, MN 55114651-647-1896
MISSISSIPPI
Indoor Garden Shop LLC1310 Bienville Boulevard,Ocean Springs, MS 39564228-875-3725
MISSOURI
Let It Grow - Girardeau879 S. Kings Highway, Cape Girardeau, MO 63703573-803-0628
Heartland Hydrogardens705 Vandiver Drive, Suite G Columbia, MO 65202 HYDROGARDENSHYDROGARDENS573-474-4769
Green Circle Hydroponics12 East Missouri, Kansas City, MO 64106816-421-1840
Grow Your Own Hydroponics3617 Saint John Avenue,Kansas City, MO 64123816-241-2122
Let It Grow - Springfield 2519 E. Kearney Street,Springfield, MO 65803417-862-GROW
U-Grow1724 North, 13th Street,St. Louis, MO 63106314-452-6368
Worm’s Way Missouri1225 North Warson Road,St. Louis, MO 63132800-285-9676
Green Thumb Organics249 Mid Rivers Mall Drive,St. Peters, MO 63376 636-397-4769 (GROW)
MONTANA
Heightened Harvests2018 Main Street #4,Billings, MT 59105406-252-4311
Magic City Organic & Hydroponic Supply 812 Central Billings, MT 59102 (406)-245-LEAF(5323)
One World – Life Products906 BroadwaterBillings MT 59101406 839 9969
Heightened Harvests3103 Harrison Avenue, Suite BButte, MT 59701 Alpengrow Nursery Supplies238 Highway 93 S.,Eureka, MT 59917406-882-4496
Butteopia127 Main Street,Butte, Montana 59701 1-406-782-8476
Big Sky Garden Supply528 West Idaho, Kallispell, MT 59901 406-755-1465
Box of Rain Indoor Garden Center860 N. Meridian Road B-19,Kalispell, MT 59901406-755-RAIN (7246)
Cornucopia Grow Your Own127 Stoner Creek RoadLakeside, MT 59922406-709-1076
Dr. Green Thumbs1106 West Park,Livingston, MO 59047406-222-7440
NEw MEXICOAHL Year Round Garden Supply1051 San Mateo Blvd. SE,Albuquerque, NM 87108505-255-3677
All Seasons Gardening3600 Osuna Road, Suite 406 Alburquerque, NM 87109 505-508-4292
Common Shaman1319 San Mateo N.E.,Albuquerque, NM 87110505-255-6463
All Seasons Gardening1228 Parkway, Suite E Sante Fe, NM 87507 505-438-GROW
Santa Fe Hydroponics821 W. San Mateo Road, Suite 4,Santa Fe, NM 87505505-467-8454
NEw YORK
The Grow Room32-32 49th StreetAstoria, NY 11103718-218-GROW (4769)
Saratoga Organics & Hydroponic Supply19 Front Street,Ballston Spa, NY 12020518-885-2005; 800-850-4769
The Grape Vine4020 Hempstead TurnpikeBethpage,NY,11714516-731-1100Bronx Hydro & Garden39 Bruckner Boulevard,Bronx, NY 10454718-993-3787Bklyn Hydro & Garden316 McGuiness BlvdBrooklyn NY 11222718-383-0095Brooklyn Farms51Hicks Street St.Brooklyn, NY 11231347-725-3491Indoor Outdoor Gardener8223 5th Avenue,Brooklyn, NY 11209718-836-2402
Hydroponics of Buffalo1497 Hertel Avenue,Buffalo, NY 14216716-838-3545Harvest Moon Hydroponics340 West at 59,Central Nyack, NY 10960California Hydroponics27 Corporate Circle,East Syracuse, NY 13057315-432-9387Upstate Hydroponics2026 Lake Rd unit BElmira, NY 14903607 483 9199FutureGarden Inc.59 Central Avenue,Farmingdale, NY 11735516-420-0884
East Coast Hydroponics14649 Horace Harding Exp,Flushing, NY 11367718-762-8880Healthy Harvest Organics and Hydro163 Broadway,Fort Edwart, NY 12828518-480-4698Greentree Nursery308 Elmira Road,Ithaca, NY 14850607-272-3666Crossroads Hydroponics & Organics181 S. Plank Rd.Newburgh, NY 12550845-561-GROWHudson Valley Hydroponics217 Route 32 North,New Paltz, NY 12561845-255-3633Sunlight Solutions Hydroponics2045 Niagara Falls Boulevard, Suite 13,Niagara Falls, NY 14304888-GROWBOXThe Grow Room 8 Bridge Street,Nyack, NY 10960800-449-9630Revolution Hydroponics 309 West State St.Olean NY 14760716.373.Grow (4769)Mor Gro Hydroponics5680 State Route 104 EOswego , NY 13126315-877-8725Environmental Gardens8 John Walsh Boulevard, Suite 310Peekskills, NY 10566800-254-0507; 914-736-6676Harvest Moon HydroponicsHenrietta Townline Plaza, 3047 West Henrietta Road,Rochester, NY 14623716-865-7353Hydro Garden Center1069B Lyell Avenue,Rochester, NY 146061-800-277-1322Sunset Hydroponics & Home Brewing1590 West Ridge Road,Rochester, NY 14615866-395-9204KG Garden Supply1327 Floyd Avenue,Rome, NY 134401-877-KG-HYDROLiquidSun of New York1702 Fiero aveRotterdam, NY 12150518-952-4654Hydroponics Shops of America2606 Erie Boulevard,Syracuse, NY 13224315-251-2516
Green Zone Hydroponics 2148 Niagara Falls Blvd. Tonawanda, NY. 14150 716-693-9663
Harvest Moon Hydroponics147 Fourth Street,Troy, NY 10960
Advanced Hydroponic Garden6912 Clinton Highway,Knoxville, TN 37921866-938-3318
Sun City Hydroponics2235 Whitten Road, Suite 104,Memphis, TN 38133901-372-8100
National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply126 Belinda Parkway,Mt. Juliet, TN 37122888-265-9005
All Seasons Gardening and Brewing Supply Co.924 8th Avenue, South,Nashville, TN 37203800-790-2188
Worm’s Way Tennessee901 Main Street, Nashville, TN 37072 800-397-4153
TEXAS
Abundant Harvest Hydroponics & Organics3101 Avenue E East,Marshall, TX 76011817-649-0100Brite Ideas Hydroponics & Organics4360 S.Congress Avenue, #310,Austin, TX 78745512-444-2100Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Central Austin)5126 Burnet Road,Austin, TX 78756512-459-4769Texas Hydroponics & Organics (South Austin)2125-A Goodrich Avenue,Austin, TX 78704512-440-4769Happy Harvest Hydroponics & Organic1500 C rescent Drive, Suite 202Carrollton, TX 75006972-466-1300GroGreen Hydroponics4015 Main Street,Dallas, TX 75226214-370-9984Jolly Green Hydroponics (Greenhouse Horticultural Supplies)13628 Neutron Road,Dallas, TX 75244 (866) WE-JOLLY; 469-341-5555Lone Star Hydroponics and Organics1302 Motor Circle,Dallas, TX 75207 214-634-9376Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Dallas)3400 Elm Street,Dallas, TX 75226214-744-4769 Organic Garden & Feed3801 N Interstate Hwy 35,Suite126, Denton Texas 76207 940-381-9890Earth Organics1360 Lee Trevino Drive,Suite 105El Paso, TX 79936915-591-9500Airline HydroponicsP.O. Box 980904, Trader’s Village #363,Houston, TX 77098713-942-0484Botani Garden15120 Bellaire BlvdHouston, TX 77083281-575-1999Houston Discount Hydroponics9384 Richmond Avenue,Houston, TX 77063713-464-9406Hydroponic Nation9700 Almeda Genoa Road, Suite 108,Houston, TX 77075281-501-9636In-N-Out Garden Supply11011 S Wilcrest Drive Ste KHouston, TX 770991 (281) 568-5265Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Houston)7730 A Park Place Boulevard,Houston, TX 77087713-641-4769Ultimate Hydroponic Garden Supply6125 West Sam HoustonParkway, North Suite 206Houston, TX 77041713-856-8425Texas Growers Supply5990 N. Sam Houston Pkwy. E. #602,Humble, TX 77396281-441-3739 Field of Dreams Indoor Growing Supplies5302 Slide Road Unit B,Lubbock, TX 79414806-793-2901Hydro Mart3841 Main Street,Rowlett, TX 75088972-475-6114Sol Organics & Hydroponics1634 Babcock Road,San Antonio, TX 78229210-366-9082GreenMaker Nursery3030 Northwest Loop,Stephenville, TX 76401254-965-7273 Innergrow Hydroponics24451 Interstate Highway 20,Wills Point, TX 75169866-475-4769
UTAHWasatch Hydroponics4050 South Howick, Suite 11E,Salt Lake City, Utah 84107801-716-4133
Salt Lake Plant & Hydro60 West 3300 S. #6,South Salt Lake, UT 84115801-488-3200
Salt Lake Plant & Hydro60 West 3300 S. #6
VERMONT
192 Maximum Yield USA | October 2011
MAXIMUM YIELDdistributors Retail Stores listed alphabetically by city in each state.MAXIMUM YIELDdistributors Retail Stores listed alphabetically by city in each state.