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VOLUME 14 – NUMBER 5 August 2013
Maximum Yield is published monthly byMaximum Yield Publications Inc.
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Phew! Summer has arrived and it sure is getting hot out there. But, whether it’s hot or cold outside, there is always a lot going on inside the growroom. From maintaining pH levels and regulating the tem-perature of a nutrient solution, indoor gardening is all about mastering the finer details, which is why in this issue we’ve included a great mix of articles on how to do just that. In “Companion Elements in Organic Fertilizers” we talk about how to select fer-tilizers that contain the right combination of nutri-ents for plants, and in “Two Methods to a Great Clean” we remind everyone of the importance of sanitization and sterilization in the growroom—no, they are not quite the same thing!Also in this issue, we talk about what root restric-
tion in hydroponics might mean for your plants, and why boron and copper are two elements that you might want to re-think. Water is also an impor-tant thing to keep in mind in these hot summer months, so we’ve included a feature on the myth of hot-weather watering, as well as a short rundown on selecting the right hydroponic water source to begin with.If you’re new to the indoor growing scene, be sure
to check out “Greenhouse Growing 101,” an article that provides a clear picture of what all is needed to get growing. All of these great reads are combined with this issue’s new product profiles and plenty of fun Max Facts to round off this issue.With the San Francisco Indoor Gardening Expo just behind us, we’ll be looking
ahead to the last stop in the Maximum Yield Grow Like a Pro Indoor Gardening Tour 2013 to be held in Long Beach, California, on October 27. It’s been a highly successful expo tour thus far, and we hope to see a lot of you out for our final Expo of 2013 in Long Beach. Find Long Beach expo details at indoorgardenexpo.comIn the meantime, keep cool and have fun in your gardens, everyone!
Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort. Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored fi ve hydroponic technical books. Visit suntec.co.nz for more information.
Grubbycup has been an avid indoor gardener for over 20 years. His articles were fi rst published in the United Kingdom, and since then his gardening advice has been published in French, Spanish, Italian, Polish, Czechoslovakian and German. He is also considered one of the world’s leading authorities on crochet hydroponics.
Dr. J. Benton Jones Jr. has 50 years of experience growing plants hydroponically. He is an Emeritus Professor at the University of Georgia, Athens and has authored eight books and written articles for magazines that deal with hydroponic issues. He currently has his own consulting company, Grosystems, Inc. Dr. Jones currently lives in Anderson, SC, USA.
Eric Hopper has over 10 years of experience in the hydroponic industry as both a retail store manager and owner. He continuously seeks new methods and products that could help maximize garden performance. Eric resides in Michigan where he and his family strive for a self-suffi cient and sustainable lifestyle.
Sylvia Bernstein is the author of Aquaponic Gardening: A Step by Step Guide to Growing Fish and Vegetables Together. She is also the president of The Aquaponic Source, and the co-founder and past vice chairman of the Aquaponics Association. Before discovering aquaponics, she was the vice president of marketing and product development for AeroGrow International.
Kyle L. Ladenburger is a passionate indoor and outdoor gardener. He is also a freelance garden writer. With nearly 10 years in the industry working for Age Old Organics, he is well versed in numerous growing methods with a focus on soil health.
Become a Maximum Yield contributor and have your articles read by 250,000 readers throughout USA, Canada, UK, Europe, New Zealand and Australia. Maximum Yield is the largest free-to-consumer indoor gardening magazine in the world. Every issue is available on maximumyield.com, which has thousands of unique visitors monthly.
Maxwell Salinger is a research horticulturist at CropKing Inc . He earned his bachelor’s degree in crop science from Ohio State University, where he also minored in plant pathology. Maxwell has a passion for integrating the technological side of crop production with the art of growing, and he is proud to call himself a hydroponics geek.
Karen Wilkinson works for EZ-CLONE Enterprises, Inc., as its social media editor. She came to them with a background in journalism and technical writing and is learning to grow, clone and write for the hydroponics community. She’s a budding gardener and loves growing her own vegetables.
Dr. Ed Harwood is founder and chief executive offi cer of AeroFarms. Ed previously served as associate director of Cornell Cooperative Extension for Agriculture. Prior to that, Ed served as CEO of Topline Waikato, Inc.
William DeBoer is a laboratory scientist at Indiana-based steadyGROWpro. A master gardener intern, Bill is responsible for company’s laboratory operations, including the design and execution of research projects, plant propagation, seed germination and overall plant care. Bill has a BS and MS from Purdue University, and was previously a research technician for the US Department of Agriculture.
Donald Lester is the product manager at JH Biotech, a commercial fertilizer manufacturer with 28 OMRI-certifi ed organic products. Donald has a master’s degree in agronomy with over 10 years of agricultural research experience and 50 scientifi c publications to his credit. He is also director of SaferGro Laboratories, a home and garden products company located in Ventura, California.
long Beach Expo October 26-27There is only one more stop on the 2013 Maximum Yield Indoor Gardening Grow Like a Pro Expo tour. So, be sure to join us in Long Beach, California, on October 26 to 27—whether you’re a new or experienced gardener, this show will offer something for everyone. Stay tuned to indoorgardenexpo.com for details so you can plan your Long Beach vacation. And, don’t forget that a few weeks before the show, you’ll be able to download and print free passes to Sunday’s public day.
Got Questions? Get Answers.Maximum Yield’s resident experts are ready to answer your modern gardening questions. Email [email protected] or fill out the “Ask the Experts” question form on maximumyield.com
Maximum Yield Publications now Smart Phone CompatibleMaximum Yield has been in circulation for the past 15 years, and fully available online for the majority of those years. This summer, we are excited to announce that all of our publications are now easily viewed using your smart phones and tablet computers. Whether you’re using an Android-based system, an iPhone or a Blackberry, loading up your digital copies of Maximum Yield will now be possible thanks to multiple software upgrades and improvements. Our loyal followers can now view their digital copies of Maximum Yield in even more places!
Maximum Yield E-News ArchivesEvery month, Maximum Yield sends out an electronic newsletter containing indoor gardening industry tidbits to our followers.
We also keep all of that information posted online at enews.maximumyield.com in case you ever miss something.
Free Digital Subscription to Maximum Yield USADid you know you can receive Maximum Yield USA free to your inbox every month? Subscribe to the digital edition of Maximum Yield by simply filling out the form at maximumyield.com/subscriptions
Maximum Yield Publications Inc.Snail-mail: 2339 Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9Email: [email protected]: twitter.com/max_yieldFacebook: facebook.com/MaximumYield
WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU!
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Indoor Gardening Expo FeedbackAttendees of the Indoor Gardening Expo in Novi, Michigan, had some great stuff to say about the event.
Here is what people are saying.
via Facebook:
I just wanted to say thank you to all the vendors who supplied the very cool samples and valuable information at the [Novi] expo. I cannot wait to put them to good use. Thanks again!” Judy A.
Thanks for the show. We could go for two shows a year. We saw a lot of new technology and acquired a few new ideas!” Dale A.
We need an Indoor Gardening Expo in the Northeast!” Andrew Robert D.
Thank you for hosting an awesome event.” Andrew G.
Thanks, MY! Great show, as always!Oasis Grower Solutions
via Twitter:
What an amazing @Max_Yield show in MI. A great crowd with many intelligent questions. Can’t wait to return!” Sea-Crop @SeaCropCA
Great times at the @Max_Yield #novi trade show. Thanks to everyone for stopping by. See you in San Francisco!” Organic Rescue @OrganicRescue
Michigan packed the house. Another fine show @Max_Yield Novi!! See you in SF.” Forever Flowering @ericffg
News You Can UseI loved the article on kitchen scrap gardening [Maximum Yield, June 2013]. We used the info right away with some ginger!Jeremiah (via Facebook)
In Regards to MY, June 2013This is your best issue yet!Julie Marie (via Facebook)
Sixth I’m a Fan Winner AnnouncedArmando Mushik from Ther-mal, California, is the sixth winner of Maximum Yield’s I’m a Fan Contest! Armando said, “I am a fan
of Maximum Yield because it seems that every time I am thinking of something, or am moving to the next step in growing knowledge, the info is often provided by Maximum Yield. This last weekend I went to my hydro store and got a long-awaited printed version of Maximum Yield. As the temperature in the desert at my home gets hot, I was wondering about CO2 to help with heat issues and when I got home I open up and find an article on CO2! Then, [the appropriate] advertising just says, ‘buy me, you need me.’ Thank you, MY, for having these ads so consumers pur-chase the products to drive the cycle. I call my hydroponics store three hours from my house to see when they will have the next copy. When they do, I drive to go get one, plus supplies. Thank you for everything and all the great information you provide and thank you for the free back issues available online.” Thanks for the kudos, Armando, and congratulations on winning
Maximum Yield’s sixth I’m a Fan contest! We hope you enjoy your $100 gift certificate at your favorite indoor gardening shop, Green Coast Hydroponics.
Steve,Thank you for your questions. First of all, let me say how lucky you are to have received a CO2 bag. They provide a simple way to get some carbon dioxide into your garden. Let’s look at your second question first. Why is CO2
worth the effort? Plants need CO2 to photosynthesize. Photosynthesis is the process by which plant leaves make carbohydrates. Sunlight, CO2 and water are converted into carbohydrates and oxygen by the action of chloro-phyll in the chloro-plasts of the plant.
Plants grow-ing indoors under artificial light often lack enough CO2 to efficiently photo-synthesize. Plants can quickly use up
the available CO2 and convert it to O2. When O2 levels rise too high, stomata on the leaf surface close and plant growth virtually stops. CO2 is as important as your light, soil or the nutrients you use. Without it, your garden is not functioning at it greatest potential.With this in mind, let’s look at your first question. CO2 is
heavier than O2 and will fall towards the bottom of your garden. Plants that are below the bag will catch most of the CO2, but some of it may make its way further down. A fan circulating the air is a good way to make sure that all
available CO2 is utilized. A lot of people vent their garden with an exhaust fan and bring in fresh air via another air duct. If you do, it is best to exhaust up high and bring air in towards the bottom of your garden. This still allows CO2 from the bag to fall and allows your plants to photosynthe-size. Having the intake lower will help move any CO2 that is down below back into the reach of your plants. Plants can only photosynthesize in the presence of light.
During the dark period in your garden, CO2 is still being produced by the bag and will gradually build up, only to be utilized by your plants when the light period begins. When your lights turn on, the stomata on the plants leaves open and the process of photosynthesis begins for another day. If you are going to turn off anything during the dark period, I would suggest turning off the exhaust and fresh air fans to allow the greatest amount of CO2 to build up in your garden.CO2 bags are an affordable and effective way to provide
your plants with what I like to call the air additive. The ben-efits outweigh the efforts, which are few. Simply place the CO2 bag above your plants and leave it alone to do its work. You should see results in just a few days. You will notice your plants are greener. This is because more chlorophyll is pres-ent, which means more photosynthesis is taken place. Hope this helps.
Good Growing,Glen Babcock
Glen Babcock is the owner of Garden City Fungi and the founder of ExHale Homegrown CO2. Glen has been involved in agriculture his entire life. Glen graduated from the University of Montana with a degree in forestry and has been a mycologist for over 23 years. His research has been published in scientific journals worldwide.
I have received a CO2 bag system. I have some understanding of CO2, but want to ask, should a fan be running 24 hours daily, or should the fan be turned off at night? Is using CO2 really worth the effort? Thank you for your information!Steve Verre
Funding the Battle Against GreeningFederal and Florida state governments have invested $17 million in emergency research funding to find a solution to the ever worsening impact of the huanglongbing (HLB) disease (also known as greening) crisis. A $9 million allocation from the US Department of Agriculture will be targeted at interme-diate research proj-ects. An $8 million commitment from the Florida legislature will be aimed at short-term research.(Source: 2highlandstoday.com)
lots of ApricotsIt’s shaping up to be a great year for apricot growers in Washington. Industry experts are predicting a near re-cord crop—about 5,900 tons—for the fruit. That’s the second largest crop in the past 13 years. Experts say the fruit should also be above aver-age in size too, because of the good weather.(Source: kndu.cm)
Pistachio Projections California’s pistachio growers have made a bet on the future: they’ve planted so many trees that the state’s production is expected to more than double, hitting in excess of a billion pounds by 2020. The ramped-up production is based on the gamble that Chinese consumers’ voracious appetite for pistachios will continue to grow. US pistachio exports to China now exceed 80 million pounds, up from just 1 million a decade ago. Growers have watched their fortunes rise as well. Total crop values are now over $1 billion, a fivefold increase from when growers first began their aggressive ramp-up of production in 1997, according to the Administrative Committee on Pistachios. In 2011, the American Pistachio Growers launched a road show in China. The nuts were pitched as part of a healthy diet that improves skin and hair.(Source: sacbee.com)
Nematodes Helping Corn Nematodes have shown promise as biological control agents in the fight against the western corn rootworm, whose larval stage is a costly pest of corn. But current spray methods used to apply the beneficial nematodes can be labor-intensive and water-con-suming. As an alternative, a team of scientists is field-testing gel capsule formulations that encap-sulate the pest-killing nematode Heterorhabditis bacteriophora. This nematode species poses no danger to humans, pets or livestock, but its lethality to root-worm larvae may give corn grow-ers another option for protecting their crops, together with the use of insecticides and rotations with non-host crops like soybean. (Source: ars.usda.gov)
Shipping Flowers by SeaThanks to rising fuel costs and im-proved cold storage technol-ogy, fresh-cut flowers are increasingly transported by boat rather than by airplane, the Wall Street Journal signals. Such ocean transport can cost half as much as air-freight and retail-ers are increasingly demanding cheaper flowers. Consumers, mean-while, are unlikely to notice the difference when it comes to the bouquets they buy. (Source: florint.org)
Using Every last Olive ScrapFor every gallon of olive oil that’s pressed from the ripe fruit, about 38 lb. of olive skins, pulp and pits are left behind. Known as pomace, these leftovers typically have low-value uses. But USDA agricultural engi-neer Rebecca R. Milczarek and her colleagues are working to find new, environmentally friendly and profitable uses for pomace. Milczarek notes that one key to creating higher-value uses for pomace, which is wet and heavy, is to develop techniques for quickly and affordably drying it at the mill. That would make the pomace easier and less expensive to ship to a central-ized processing plant. There, specialized equipment could be used to extract additional oil or perhaps compounds for use in new foods, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics or other products. (Source: ars.usda.gov)
Veggies for SoldiersNorth Carolina State University has gained support from the US Army
to create functional food ingredients from fruits and vegetables that will be used to develop healthier, more portable combat rations for soldiers.
Researchers with North Carolina State’s Plants for Human Health Institute, located at the North Carolina Research Campus in Kannapolis, are infusing protein
powders and flours, the kinds found at health and nutrition stores, with health-promoting compounds from kale greens and muscadine grapes.
The research addresses a critical military challenge: how to provide balanced diets (inclusive of fruits and vegetables) to troops in the
field that will have taste appeal while still maintaining shelf life, portability and health-protective functionality.(Source: southeastfarmpress.com)
30 Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
Max FaCTS hydrOPONiC NEwS, TiPS aNd Trivia
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Extending Strawberry Shelf life Scientists have worked out how to double the shelf life of strawber-ries. The technique sees a novel use of LED technology to pour UV light onto the berries, which (as a result) won’t go off for at least nine days. This technology could also benefit other fresh produce.(Source: dailymail.co.uk)
Promoting Phosphorus Management A more comprehensive and consistent system for modeling phosphorus loss is now avail-able, thanks to work by USDA scientists. The Phosphorus Index was originally a simple management tool developed to gauge the risk of phosphorus losses from agri-cultural fields. The original index has since been modified by individual states to incorporate local variations in soils, climate, management and water quality goals.To reduce these state-by-state discrepancies, the USDA has developed the Annual Phosphorus Loss Estimator (APLE), a user-friendly spreadsheet program that predicts field-scale phosphorus loss in run-off for a whole year. The revamped program can also be used in differ-ent states to quantify field-scale phosphorus loss and soil phosphorus changes over 10 years. APLE is free to download from ars.usda.gov(Source: ars.usda.gov)
Cost-saving lED lightsThe US Department of Energy did a study of how much electricity was saved last year thanks to the use of LED in nine kinds of applications (various kinds of indoor lights, streetlights, etc). The numbers are very impressive: “In 2012, about 49 million LED lamps and lumi-naires were installed in the nine applications. LEDs in these markets saved approximately 71 trillion British thermal units, equivalent to an annual energy cost savings of about $675 million!”(Source: treehugger.com)
32 Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
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Max FaCTS hydrOPONiC NEwS, TiPS aNd Trivia
A new Kind of ValentineThe University of California, Riverside, has released a new fruit: the Valentine. While technically a pummelo, it’s a hybrid cross of Sia-mese sweet pummelo, Dancy mandarin and ruby blood orange. The name is derived from the shape of the fruit that when cut lengthwise and turned upside resembles a read heart. The red flesh contains anthocyanins, which have been coveted for their potential healthful ben-efits. These are the same antioxidants contained in dark-colored fruits, such as pomegranates, blueberries and blackberries.(Source: thegrower.com)
HOTTEST ITEMSAsk for them at your local indoor gardening store
Atmosphere’s new S-lineAtmosphere, the maker of the Vortex Powerfans, is proud to introduce the new S-Line. The S-line is a revolutionary series of fans that combine energy efficiency, ultra-quiet operations and a collection of advanced technologies that deliver unparalleled performances. An extremely energy efficient AC brushless motor powers the patented mixed-flow dual impellers. Built with double insulated walls, noise is reduced to levels that were previously thought to be unattainable. All S-Line models are assembled with high impact resistant polycarbonate casings, an integrated back draft damper and a mounting bracket designed for quick and easy installation. The S-Line models feature a 10-year warranty. For more information, visit an indoor gardening store near you.
Aquatic life’s RO BuddieCommitted to providing economical filtered water with a small foot-print, Aquatic Life has introduced a new reverse osmosis (RO) water
purification system called the RO Buddie™. The RO Buddie provides economical filtered water
using a three-stage system. Using carbon and sediment cartridges with a central membrane, the RO Buddie removes harm-ful substances such as heavy metal ions and total dissolved solids from tap water. Available in two sizes: the 50 gal. and 100 gal. per day, the small size of the RO Buddie makes it easy to place under cabi-nets or in limited spaces. Unlike most RO units that use replacement carbon and sediment cartridges that fit into a cham-ber, the RO Buddie carbon and sediment cartridges are encased in durable plastic housings that are part of the filter. Quick connections combined with the front location of the cartridges make for easy removal, disposal and installation. Ask a retail store near you for more information.
Active Aqua Premium White Reservoirs now Available from HydrofarmActive Aqua’s new premium white reservoirs offer unparalleled strength, performance and value. These heavy-duty reservoirs are thick, rigid, durable and easy to clean. The edges are arch-formed for extra strength and minimal flexing. These versatile reservoirs are made to fit under flood tables and other hydroponic systems. They feature multiple drill access points for bulkhead fittings, drainage fittings and inside gradation to verify water levels. Active Aqua’s premium white reservoirs are a great value at an affordable price! This product is available in 20- , 40- , 70- and 115-gal. sizes. For more information, stop by your local hydro store.
Titan Controls’ Saturn SeriesTitan Controls is proud to announce its latest addition to its multi-function controller line, the Saturn Series models 4, 5 and 6. These easy-to-use garden controllers provide ultimate control of your indoor garden. They offer tempera-ture, humidity and CO2 func-tions to maintain the precise levels that make your garden flourish. Each product is ETL listed and comes in a durable dust-, rust- and moisture-resistant plastic enclosure. The Saturn 4 offers simplistic control of temperature and humidity and includes CO2 integration into your grow space. The Saturn 5 steps it up by adding a CO2 short-cycle timer to enrich the environment. The Saturn 6 is one of our most advanced controllers, coming complete with a remote CO2 sniffer. For more information, stop by a local grow store.
Arborjet’s Eco-Mite and Eco-PMSay goodbye to mites, powdery mildew and a host of other insect and fungus pests. Arborjet Inc. recently announced two brand-new products specially formulated to use on small plants: Eco-Mite™ and Eco-PM™. Derived from organic botanical plant oils and extracts, both Eco-Mite and Eco-PM kill and repel target pests, and are non-toxic to people and pets. Eco-Mite is a contact miticide and insecticide. It controls phytophagous mites, eggs, nymphs, aphids, mealybugs, scale crawlers, thrips and whiteflies. Eco-PM is a broad spectrum contact fungicide. It controls powdery mildews, botrytis grey mold and phytophthora late
blight on common garden and vegetable plants and vines and more. These new products, along with Aza-Sol™, comprise Arborjet’s new Eco-Line—an array of products created with eco-friendliness in mind. Visit an indoor gardening store near you to learn more.
Dutchpro’s Original Bloom Soil A+BDutchpro’s award-winning Original Bloom Soil A+B is a complete bloom feed purposely designed for soil. This product has all of the
essential macro and micro growth nutrients necessary for exuberant bloom. For fertilizer use mix 26.41 gal. of water with 6.76 or 10.14 oz. of Original Bloom Soil,
dependant on the desired EC level. Never mix components in pure form with each other. Instead add component A, water and then component B in equal parts (always rinsing the measuring cup well). Available in sizes ranging from 0.26, 1.32, 2.64, 5.28 and the new 13.2 gal. Dutchpro nutri-ents are stable and clear and contain organic elements to keep plants vital and green until the end of the cycle. For more information, ask about Dutchpro at your local retail store.
Method Seven Operator, lED OpticsMethod Seven, the company that devel-oped perfect color-balancing optics for working under HPS lights, in-troduces the first optics designed for LED grow lights. The Operator, LED is part of Method Seven’s Fission Series, manufactured by Carl Zeiss Vision. This lens offers the grower extreme clarity, focus and protection while work-ing under LED lights. Growers can now experience daylight balance color under the harsh conditions of LED grow lights and protect themselves from UV. Designed in California and built in Italy, the LED Fission Lens is lightweight, shatterproof and will make their debut at the Maximum Yield Indoor Gardening Expo in San Francisco.
RootBuilder II RootMaker® provides container solutions for all sizes and varieties of plants. RootBuilder II® sizes are available in minis; quarts; 1, 2, 3 and 5 to 7 gal. and 100-ft. rolls. RootBuilder II rolls allow you to build a container to the size you need, with cable ties keeping it together. The material allows for roots to be directed outward to funnels, which allow for branching and air-root-pruning. The funnel technology keeps water loss at a minimum and provides shading to reduce temperature and water evaporation. The RootBuilder II system provides a superior root system and gives your plants the best opportunity to reach their genetic potential. Check out a local retail store for more information.
Active Eye Microscope for iPhone 4/5 now Available from HydrofarmActive Eye’s Microscope transforms your iPhone into a mobile 60x microscope! This unit comes with a protective phone case that makes the microscope convenient to use and easy to attach. The microscope offers a portable and convenient design with a bright LED light for ideal magnification for detecting insects and diseases on plants. You can also photograph magnified objects for records and photo sharing. Available for the iPhone 4 and iPhone 5. To learn more, ask a local hydro store.
Dutchpro’s Original Grow Hydro/Coco A+B Soft WaterDutchpro’s award-winning Original Grow Hydro/Coco A+B Soft Water is a complete grow feed that’s proven to be perfect for hydro and coco methods. Soft water formulations are especially designed for soft water areas. This product has all the essential macronutrients and micronutrients necessary for exuberant growth. For fertilizer use mix 26.41 gal. of water with between 8.45 and 11.83 oz. of Original Grow Hydro/Coco dependant on the desired EC level. Never mix the compo-nents in pure form with each other. Instead, add component A, water and then component B in equal parts (always rinsing the measuring cup well). Available in sizes ranging from 0.26, 1.32, 2.64, 5.28 and the new 13.2 gal. Dutchpro nutrients are stable and clear and contain organic elements. Visit a
ADPot lickerBe done with the problems smooth-walled plastic pots can create with your plant’s roots. Turn any pot into a
RootTrapper II® instantly with the new RootMaker®
product called Pot Licker®. Its state-of-the-art lamina-
tion technology assures your plant’s roots grow in a healthy
state and make a smooth transition to a larger pot or
ground planting. The process is simple: line the hard pot with the
Pot Licker fabric, fill with growth medium and allow for the fabric to
promote trapping of root tips. Roots will branch as if they were cut or air-pruned, allowing a fibrous root system to be created throughout the container. To find out more, stop by a local grow store.
Gnat Nix by GrowstoneIntroducing the scientifically proven, environmentally friendly fungus gnat control called Gnat Nix! Gnat Nix! is free of harmful pesticides and chemicals and is made from 100% recycled glass. Plants love it. Gnats don’t. Gnat Nix! is a non-toxic, chemical-free fungus gnat control and is considered a long-lasting top dressing effective under dry or moist conditions. It’s great for both indoor and outdoor use. University trials have proved Gnat Nix! used as a top dressing is an effective physical barrier against fungus gnats. It prevents adult emer-gence from hatching larvae and deters females from laying eggs in the growing media. As a result, the lifecycle of fungus gnats is interrupted. All you need to do is apply approximately a half-inch thick layer of Gnat Nix! to fully cover the surface of the growing medium in your growing containers. For more information, visit a grow store near you.
Sun System light Emitting Ceramic (lEC) 315Sunlight Supply®, Inc. is excited to announce the arrival of the Sun System®LEC 315 light fixture. Sun System LEC 315 utilizes cutting-edge Light Emitting Ceramic™ technology, along with a specially engineered 98% reflective optical cavity. This product includes a highly efficient agriculturally engineered Philips CDM-T Elite Agro Lamp. Get greatly improved full-color light spectrum, with higher amounts of beneficial UV and far red spectrums increasing the lamp’s growing power. The Sun System®LEC 315 light fixture has a very high 1.95 PPF per second light source; 3,100-K color temperature; high 92 CRI and 33,000 initial lumens (105 lm/W). The unique open-rated lamp con-struction reduces radiant heat from the arc tube and is suitable for open fixture use. 50/60 Hz low frequency, square wave, highly efficient electronic ballast rated for 50,000 hour ballast life. Visit a local retailer for more information.
SuperCloset’s lED Trinity 3.0 Hydroponic Grow BoxSuperCloset’s LED Trinity 3.0 grow box is 72-in. tall, 72-in. wide and 24-in. deep. It features three independent lighting systems to allow indoor gardeners the ability to move plants, based on their age and height, through different grow environments. The LED lights used in the system are proprietary 8 bandwidth spectrum LEDs that run on 700 mA. The LED Trinity 3.0 is a much more sustainable product than the traditional HID Trinity 3.0 and has garnered many accolades even in its short release. Ask about it at a local retailer.
Predator lighting Announces new ViperThe streamlined new Predator Lighting Viper is perfect for growers on the hunt for a high-quality reflector! Its durable steel housing and compact design make it ideal for indoor gardens, and its built-in cord with integrated ballast plug makes setup simple. The Viper features a UL-listed Leviton 2000-W, 600-V pulse-rated socket and a superior-quality 95% reflective insert that takes maximum advantage of available light. To allow gar-deners greater control over the growing environment, the Viper has no flange or lens. Unit measures 20 in. by 13 5/8 in. by 8 1/4 in. Visit a retailer near you to find out more
HydrotonSunlight Supply®, Inc. is pleased to announce the arrival of Hydroton. Hydroton is a unique, lightweight expanded clay aggregate. Hy-droton is ecologically sustainable as it is derived from a replen-ishable source: clay. Clay naturally has balanced capillary action to accelerate plant growth with an ideal surface for root structures and beneficial bacteria. Hydroton drains freely, is pH adjusted, free of harmful heavy metals and is inert. You can use Hydroton as a stand-alone grow media for most hydroponic growing systems, as well as mixing in with other medias such as coco, potting soil or rockwool for increased aeration and drainage. Visit a local hydro store for more information.
Grow Your Plants in CYCO’s new Premium MediaCYCO has expanded its line of premium growing media. CYCO Coco Pearl mixes their high-quality coco with perlite, forming a superior RHP-certified blend that provides high water absorption and excellent aeration. It’s pre-buffered and pH stabilized, so it’s healthy for plants right out of the bag. CYCO Hydro Clay is perfect as a growing medium, drainage layer or top dressing, and carries the GGS and RAL certifica-tions. Visit a retailer near you to find out more.
Get Results with a Sunspot 6 EconoThe Sunleaves Sunspot 6 Plug ‘N’ Play Econo packs a lot of features at an affordable price for gardeners on a budget. With a hinged airtight lens and heavy-duty housing for reliable performance, it features 6-in. inline venting flanges and a highly reflective insert with a UL-listed Leviton 2,000-W, 600-V pulse-rated socket. Find a local retailer to learn more.
Plant Perfect Fabric Flower PotsPlant Perfect Fabric Flower Pots are time-tested fabric containers that perform, display and present better than the com-petition. Used in commercial tree farms and nurseries for decades, Plant Perfect Fabric Flower Pots are of the highest qual-ity and are designed with performance in mind. Made with pressed felt, the Plant Perfect Fabric Flower Pot maintains mois-ture levels in your chosen media. To help with longevity and discourage the seams from rotting out, the Plant Perfect Fabric Flower Pot is bottom stitched externally. Unique top stitching helps the container maintain its shape when filling with your preferred media. All it takes is one per-son to do the job. For more information, ask a local retailer.
Dutchpro’s leaf GreenDutchpro’s award-winning Leaf Green is used to achieve good leaf development in your garden. Leaf Green gives plants a healthy and vital look. It is especially recommended for plants that have noticeable diffi-culties with their development. It also gives plants with a yellowish dis-coloring a fresh green color. Also use it for improving a plant’s nutrient uptake. Leaf Green is non-ammonia based and comes ready to use as a spray-on liquid. Spraying on the leaves should be done at least three hours before the lights go on. Available in sizes ranging from 0.26, 1.32, 2.64 and 5.28 gal. Dutchpro nutrients are stable and clear and
contain organic elements. For more informa-tion on Dutchpro products, ask
DIY 5-gal. Bucket now Available at HydrofarmThis proprietary 5-gal. DIY bucket is designed specifi-cally for hydroponic use. It features dual integrated air tub-ing channels, a flat mounting area for securing grom-mets/fittings and a stepped inner lip to prevent spillage. This DIY 5-gal. bucket works with standard bucket basket lids. To find out more, visit a local hydro store.
Method Seven Prescription OpticsMethod Seven Optics, which deliv-ers color balance, clarity and protection while working under various grow lighting environments, intro-duces prescription glasses for HPS, metal halide and LED lighting. Avail-able in the patent-pending Rendition Series glass and the Carl Zeiss Vision Fission Series, these glasses come in several prescription options, including bi-focal and progressives. Now growers who require prescription glasses can enjoy color, clarity and protection with Method Seven Technology. Learn more at a grow store near you.
Octopot’s Oystershell Garden Octopot’s Oystershell Garden unites simple soil gardening with the science of hydroponics, delivering farm-sized plants with yields similar to plants grown in 15-gal. containers or larger. Take a vacation from your garden without depending on others to take care of it—the Oystershell Garden automatically feeds and waters plants without electricity for up to two weeks, depending on the size and stage of the plant. Octopot’s Hydro Wick is designed to promote healthy root branching by delivering optimum amounts of air and moisture to plant roots. The root mass is nourished on demand and can be fed with organic or synthetic nutrients. Octopot’s new Gro Sleeve improves plant growth by promoting natural root pruning and allowing additional air to the soil for accelerated capillary action. Check in at a local retail store for more information.
KIND lED lightsKIND LED introduces the largest LED grow light (up to 300% bigger footprint than other LED grow lights) in two series of lighting products, with the premium line featuring dimmable red, blue and white balance knobs to fine tune vegetative and flowering light cycles. Now you can mimic the sun’s natural photosynthetic progression of rays to maximize fruit, flower and essential oil production. In addition, KIND LED has de-veloped their exclusive proprietary “Perfect Spectrum” that enables growers to har-vest record yields at the highest quality level by utilizing a 12 spectrum bandwidth that penetrates the plant canopy entirely. A 2-cm thick high quality aluminum heat sink completes the hardware package design. To learn more, inquire at a local retailer.
Cleanlight Air and Cleanlight Pro The CleanLight USA line has expanded to include an air filtration system and a larger handheld UV-C unit. The CleanLight Air treats rooms up to 720 sq. ft. killing fungus, bacteria and viruses in the air. The system does this with a multifaceted filtration system utilizing UV-C, HEPA, active carbon and cold catalyst and it even has an ozone generator with built-in safety features. The CleanLight Air has both automatic and manual settings along with a bad smell sensor for odors. The unit comes with a touchscreen digital display and remote control. Also from CleanLight USA, the CleanLight Pro builds on the success of the Hobby Unit but has a more powerful 40-W bulb. The unit is intended for larger growrooms and has a shatterproof lamp. Users simply sweep the CleanLight Pro across the plant’s architecture to kill unwanted fungus, bacte-ria and viruses on the plant. For more information, visit a retail store in your area.
If you’re a control freak, and can’t stand the uncertainty of growing outdoors with the whims of Mother Nature at the helm, greenhouse gardening may be the growing method you’ve been searching for. It’s relatively easy and cost effec-tive and once you’ve got the environmental controls down, it can provide a lot of fun and rewards. A greenhouse is the perfect place to germinate seeds
and allows you to extend the natural growing season. So if you want to grow vegetables year-round, it may be a real-ity if you’re willing to put in the work and if greenhouse growing is practical given your geographical location. But with such control, comes a lot of responsibility and work, which we’ll get to later. There’s nothing new about greenhouse gardening. The
concept of using an environmentally-controlled apparatus to grow year-round has been around since Roman times when cucumber-like vegetables were planted in wheeled carts, which were put in the sun during the day, and taken inside at night to stay warm. Roman emperor Tiberius had an affinity for these vegetables so they were provided at his table every day and grown using artificial methods.
Technology continued to evolve but for the most part was reserved for the rich and elite. The playing field is more level today, as most home growers can afford a plastic or glass greenhouse. Today’s gardeners have a few more advantages over those growing using greenhouse concepts thousands of years ago in that factors such as temperature, humidity, soil aeration, soil moisture and drainage, fertility levels and light are mostly within one’s control. But before embarking on a greenhouse growing adventure, there are a few tips to be mindful of, especially if you’re just starting out. The main greenhouse gardening factors are light, tempera-
ture, ventilation and watering. But that’s just touching the surface; the more you get into this style of growing the more you recognize virtually everything is within arm’s reach, from the lighting to pollination. But first things first: if you’re not up to speed on the basics, the whole thing can wither away and die before your eyes. Keep in mind you don’t need a bunch of fancy equipment
to grow in a greenhouse. In fact, simplicity can be your friend here. Then, once you’ve got a grip on the greenhouse, explore more. For now, let’s focus on getting those plants growing.
A greenhouse IS thE pERFECt plACE to gERMINAtE SEEdS ANd AlloWS YoU to ExtENd thE NAtURAl gRoWINg SEASoN.” AD
What You’ll needseeds or startersSeeds can easily be propagated easily inside a greenhouse. They are the cheapest way to go and provide the greatest sense of pride for the grower. If you don’t have the patience or time for seeds, starters are almost always available at your local nursery. Whatever you’re planting, however, be sure that you’re growing sturdy, pro-ductive, disease- and pest-resistant plants. The last thing you want is a species prone to aphids regardless of ideal grow-ing conditions, or plants that need constant feed-ing and attention. Next, you’ll want to find soil, containers and fertilizer.
soil First of all, do not use unsterilized soil. Going cheap and easy doesn’t pay off, and may end up causing more prob-lems in the long run. Unsterilized soil often contains parasites, but if you insist on using dirt that’s straight from the ground or otherwise previously used, do yourself a big favor and sterilize it. Bake it, if you will, by placing in the oven for an hour at 250°F, being sure to thoroughly moisten it first. And be prepared to leave the kitchen while this is going on, as the scent isn’t terribly pleasing. Once baked, add about one tablespoon of fertilizer to each gallon of soil, and blend. You can always make your own soil mixture, but if you want to save yourself some time and messiness, just skip it all and throw down some money on soil. Save yourself from the hassle and get into the best part of it all, the actual growing.
sAve Yourself FRoM thE hASSlE ANd gEt INto thE bESt pARt oF It All, thE
Containers Just as your soil should be either fresh from the store or sterilized, so should the containers you’ll be using. Keep in mind that plants should only be transplanted once due to the shock to the plant, so go big, but be realistic. Be sure that the container is deep enough for the plant’s root system, as root-bound plants aren’t healthy plants. If sterilizing a container, use a bleach mix of one part bleach to 10 parts water, or half water and half vinegar. Then submerge the container in the solution for 30 to 45 minutes, being sure to remove caked-on dirt and debris with a scourging sponge. Rinse thoroughly after-ward with warm water and allow to completely dry before putting more life back into them.
fertilizerMost plants like food, but can be hurt if the grower feeds it too much. Keep in mind that most commercial soil already has nutrients to sustain plants for about three weeks. So introduce fertilizer gradually, being sure to start with a diluted solution and slowly increase the dosage. Starting off with a high dose can burn a plant and damage its roots. Be slow, be mindful and be aware that adding fertilizer changes the pH of the soil, making it more acidic.
factors Affecting growth humidityWhile rain forests are ideal environments for some plants, such a climate can actually hinder plant growth if humidity levels get too high. Levels should be between 70 to 85% during high-growth periods, and levels between 90 and 95% should be avoided if possible. Too much humidity can weaken plants and encourage early bolting and fungal diseases, making otherwise sturdy, healthy plants limp and prone to problems that will only compound and leave you with a mess to clean. Humidity levels can be lowered through venting, exhausting humid air and watering only when needed. If you need to increase such levels, spraying water on the floor can help. Moisture levels can also be upped by placing con-tainers of water in the greenhouse, allowing it to evapo-rate to maintain humidity levels.
Be sure thAt thE CoNtAINER IS dEEp ENoUgh FoR thE plANt’S Root SYStEM, AS Root-boUNd plANtS AREN’t hEAlthY plANtS.”
WateringThis is a no brainer, but it’s usually the overabun-dance of water, or lack thereof, that can kill. So be mindful—water is necessary, but the amount and frequency depends on temperature, length of day, plant size and growing medium. Many recommend thoroughly soaking the plants once a day, but too much water can be harmful as well. It’s a balancing act. Use well-draining soil and be sure the pots are equipped to allow excess water to drain away from the plant’s roots. An abun-dance of moisture can lead to root rot, killing the plants. If you can only water once a day, do so, but if your schedule permits watering in smaller amounts twice daily, take the time. And with the exception of the hot summer months, many crops can be watered every other day. Also, remember to kill the chlorine. Allow the water to stand for 24 hours in an open container, which will not only help to evaporate the chlorine, but will also bring it to room temperature, allowing you to avoid the shock that your plants receive when given cold water. If there’s too much chlorine in your water, you may want to invest in some anti-chlorine drops at your local pet or fish store.
ventilationJust like people, greenhouse plants require fresh air often. It’s arguably the most
important part of a successful greenhouse, as it helps regulate temperature, provides plenty
of fresh air for photosynthesis, prevents pest infestations and disease, and encourages pollina-tion. Stagnant air can provide breeding grounds for unwelcome pests, fungi, mildew and diseases that take advantage of such an atmosphere, so make sure the greenhouse is well-ventilated by opening some windows or getting a fan. Use rooftop air vents to allow moisture and heat to expel naturally, or invest in fans, air circulators, screens and other equipment to manually con-trol the greenhouse environment.
lightFull sun on your greenhouse is best, and can cut down on the need for additional heat during the winter. Remember that you can always provide more shade to limit the sunlight, but you can’t bring in additional sun once it’s been blocked by the shade. But when natural lighting isn’t cut-ting it, artificial means are the next best thing. Depending on your plants’ needs and the time of year, they will require between six and 12 hours of light daily. There are a myriad of types of artificial lighting, which require entire articles of its own. So choose according to plant needs, and don’t skimp on this investment.
use rooftop AIR vENtS to AlloW MoIStURE ANd hEAt to ExpEl NAtURAllY.” AD
The term pondus hydrogenii (weight of hydrogen) is better known by the abbreviation pH. pH is basically (pun intended) a measure of hydronium (H3O) concentration (formed by hydrogen ions and water) in relation to hydrox-ide (HO) in aqueous (H2O) solutions such as nutrient solutions. It is a logarithmic scale from 0 (most acidic) to 14 (most basic) with 7 being neutral. If there is more hydro-nium, it is an acid; if there is more hydroxide, it is a base and if they are equal, they form a neutral substance.
The pH scale The pH scale is logarithmic according to the distance from neutral (7). A pH of 5 is 10 times as more acidic than a pH of 6, and a pH of 4 is 100 times more acidic. On the basic side, a pH of 9 is 10 times more basic than a pH of 8, and a pH of 10 is 100 times more basic. Liquids with a pH value below 7 have “spare” hydronium, are acidic and have a sour taste. Vinegar and lemon juice are common acids. Water, plus an additional hydrogen ion, forms a hydronium ion: (H2O+H=H3O). A low pH value indicates that there is a relatively high number of hydronium ions present, and the substance will donate protons. Here are a couple of examples:
• Water (H2O) + hydrochloric acid (HCl) rearranges to become a hydronium ion (H2O) and chloride (Cl).
• Water (H2O) + phosphoric acid (H3PO4) rearranges to become a hydronium ion (H3O) and dihydrogen phos-phate ion (H2PO4)
Strong acids (or weak acids in concentration) tend to be cor-rosive and can cause damage to living tissue or other materi-als. The lower end of the acceptable pH range for plants tends to favor micronutrient availability, but plants in min-eral soils with a pH less than 5.5, or in soilless media with a pH less than 5.0, may experience problems from calcium and magnesium washing away, aluminium and manganese becoming too soluble and overwhelming the plant. A pH of 7 is the neutral center point, being neither
acidic or basic. Hydronium and hydroxide in equal parts will cancel out the effects of the other (effec-tively forming H2O). This is how a strong base can be canceled out by a strong acid and vice versa. This is also why pH up products are bases (to offset the acid, thereby raising the pH), and pH down products are acids (to add acid, lowering the pH).Plain water (H2O) has a pH of around 7. While even at
neutral, water can be used as a solvent or as a base in some instances, and plain water tends to be less damaging than a strong acid or base. The H2O can rearrange as H3O and HO, but as long as they are in equal amounts, they will neutral-ize each other. Many beneficial micro-organisms prefer a neutral or near neutral pH.
wHile even at neutral, water can be used as a solvent or as a base in some instances,
Liquids with pH values above 7 such as a lye solution are basic (also known as alkaline). A high pH value indicates that there is more hydroxide present, and the substance will accept available protons. Strong bases (or weak bases in concentration) tend to be caustic, which, like the corrosive property of acids, can cause damage to living tissue or other materials. The higher end of the acceptable pH range for plants tends to favor macronutrient availability in mineral soils, but soilless media with a pH over 7 may experience problems from manganese or phosphorous deficiencies.Bases raise the amount of hydroxide. Potassium hydroxide
(KOH), and sodium hydroxide (NaOH) both increase the amount of available hydroxide in a solution. For example, KOH separates to become potassium and hydroxide (K and OH). Furthermore, lime is often used as an amendment to raise soil pH.
pH testingTest drops and meters are two common ways to test pH, but it is also possible to test for pH using anthocyanins extracted from red cabbage leaves (I haven’t tested it with blueberries or beets yet, but they are also high in anthocyanins). Take a half of a head of red cabbage and shred it (you can use a whole head, but a half makes plenty). Add to a small pot with one cup of water (preferably distilled). Bring to a boil and then simmer for 20 minutes or until the liquid in the pot is a deep purple color. Strain out the cabbage and retain the fluid. This homemade fluid can be used to test pH.
Extract the boiled off water from a red cabbage to use as a pH tester.
It is possible to test for pH using red cabbage leaves.
In a clear or white cup, put in enough of the liquid to cover the bottom of the cup, and
add the substance to be tested. Stir, and dilute with water as needed to see the color clearly. The
amount of fluid used won’t affect the shade of the color, only the intensity. The liquid will change color
according to pH. In order from lowest pH (most acidic) to highest (most basic) the colors are: red,
pink, blue, the original shade of purple, green, yellow and clear. Neutral (pH 7) is the purple starting color, and a pH of 6 is that same purple with a pinkish tone. The testing fluid can be applied to strips of absorbent
paper and allowed to dry to create homemade testing strips (although the reaction works best if used within the first couple of weeks). Some common household items that can be used as testing fluids are lye, bleach, baking soda, lemon juice and vinegar. Be careful with lye and bleach as both are strong bases and can be dangerous if mishan-dled, and never mix bleach with an acid or it will release
its chlorine as gas (not safe to breathe at all).There are other things that can also be used in a similar fashion, although often with different colors
indicating the pH values. Litmus is made from lichen, and turns red in low pH, and blue in high pH. This fluid can be applied to strips of paper to become litmus paper, commonly used in testing pH. Many pH test kits use this same principle, using a chemical that changes color depending on pH. The substance to be tested (such as a nutrient solution sample) is put in a vial, and a few drops of the test fluid is added.
THe TesTing fluid can be applied
to strips of absorbent paper and allowed to
dry to create homemade testing strips.”
“some common household items that can be used as testing
fluids are lye, bleach, baking soda, lemon juice and vinegar.”
The vial is shaken, and the color compared to a chart. Once the closest color is located, the corresponding pH value is read. The ideal pH value for mineral soils is between 6.5 and 7.5, and for hydroponics and other soilless media it is between 5.0 and 6.0.Electronic pH meters for liquids use two electrodes.
One is used as a reference, and the other is influenced by pH. The second electrode is covered in a special glass that allows only hydrogen ions to pass, changing the electrical charge that is compared and converted into a measure of pH. This probe should be kept moist at all times, even when not in use.
pH tips and tricksBase cations such as calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and potassium (K) can raise pH, so will an abun-dance of sodium (Na). As these elements are used by the plant (or washed out of the area) the pH of the media may drift down and become more acidic if not replaced. Over-application of any of these elements can cause pH values to drift towards basic. Buffers are materials in the solution that help it
resist change. They help occupy free hydronium and hydroxide to help stabilize the solution.
“THe ideAl pH vAlue for mineral soils is between 6.5 and 7.5, and for
hydroponics and other soilless media it is between 5.0 and 6.0.”
Reverse osmosis (RO)water for example, has very little buffering capacity, which means only a small amount of an acid or a base can have a large impact on the pH of the solution. Having buffers in a nutrient solution helps minimize fluctuations. Organic matter such as compost tends to have a buffering effect. In hydroponic gardening, pH is a much more important to test
often than with soil or soilless gardening. The mineral properties of soil, and the organic material in soilless, tend to help buffer fluctuations in pH, but in hydroponic systems, particularly when using RO water, pH can fluctuate very quickly with the addition of nutrients or additives.
Now that you know a lot more about pH and how it works, you’re well on your way to achieving great growth results. If you have any questions regarding your pH levels, email [email protected] and we’ll see if we can get one of our experts to help out!
only A smAll amount of an acid or a base can have a large
Sanitization & Sterilization As opposed to popular belief, sanitization and sterilization are two different things—and when used together, they provide indoor gardeners with a pretty amazing clean.
BY ERIC HOPPER
TWO METHODS TO A GREAT CLEAN:
72 Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
In order to maintain an opti-mal growing environment, the horticulturist must maintain cleanliness. This may entail something as simple as a quick vacuuming or as complicated as the com-plete removal of all microbial life from a hydroponic system. In regard to grow-room cleanliness, two methods should be used: sanitization and sterilization. To implement sanitization and sterilization in an indoor garden, a grower must understand the differ-ence between the two. Although they are very dif-ferent, sanitization and sterilization are commonly confused for the same thing. Equally important to the indoor horticulturist, sanitization and steriliza-tion serve different purposes and should be used in conjunction to best employ their functions.
SanitizationIn reference to indoor horticulture, sanitiza-tion is essentially a good, deep cleaning. It is as much a part of an indoor garden’s ongoing maintenance as changing light bulbs or refilling nutrient reservoirs. Sanitization practices will usually eliminate some of the most unwanted micro-organisms. However, sanitization does not necessarily mean the use of a cleaning product or antimicrobial product. A simple wipe down to remove the “filth” could be considered sanitizing. Think of saniti-zation as keeping a consistently tidy growroom. By doing this, growers can remove most pathogens and prevent a slew of problems. There are many practices of sanitization a grower should apply within an indoor growroom. Creating a checklist to keep track of what was done, and when, can be an invaluable tool in maintaining the sanitization of an indoor garden. The immediate cleanup of spills,
excess water or plant runoff is imperative in maintaining sanitization in an indoor garden. People who take on the hobby of indoor horticulture run the risk of having to deal with a wet floor. A wet/dry vacuum used to suck up any spillage or runoff is one of the best investments an indoor horticulturist can make. Excess moisture on the floor will raise the room’s humidity level and increase the risk of mold or rot, especially if it is occurring regularly.
“it is always best to remove any dead plant matter or old soil completely from
the indoor garden.”
Upon entering the indoor garden, a grower should look for and cleanup dead plant matter. While working with your plants, take the time to look for fallen leaves on the ground or in plant containers. Removing the fallen leaves immediately eliminates a breeding ground for pests and diseases. After harvesting crops, make sure to always dispose of old soil or root matter a good distance from your indoor garden. Dead plant matter is extremely attractive to a variety of pests, but it is especially appealing to molds and fungi. Many gardeners with ongoing root rot never associate the problem with an unkempt growroom. It is always best to remove any dead plant matter or old soil completely from the indoor garden. This eliminates an array of potentially devastating problems. Inspect and sanitize your intake filter about once a week.
This piece of equipment is an absolutely invaluable tool to the indoor horticulturist. If a grower doesn’t wish to pur-chase an intake filter, one can be made. An old carbon filter or nylons attached with zip-ties over an intake port will serve as an adequate filter. Intake filters keep unwanted dirt, dust, bugs and, in some cases, spores, molds and bacteria from ever entering the growing environment. A routine cleaning
of the intake filter will help maintain a ventilation system’s maximum air flow. Besides clean-
ing the intake filter, it is equally impor-tant to closely examine the filter.
Close inspection of an intake filter can give a grower
early warning signs of pest insects. A pest insect found on an intake filter can give the horticulturist a jump-start on implementing further preventative measures, or a treat-ment program. AD
It is a good idea for indoor horticulturists to get into a routine of removing bulbs and glass from the reflectors for a good wipe down. A good time to do this bit of sanitization is after every harvest. This will not only keep a regular schedule going but also be a good time for maneuvering in the growroom. With the garden harvested and removed from the area, it opens up a bunch of space in the room. This makes it much easier for the grower to get to the reflectors and other equip-ment. When sanitizing the bulbs, a damp cloth will do,
but the use of isopropyl alcohol is more effective. Glass cleaners can be used on the reflector’s glass, but I still prefer isopropyl alcohol because when it evaporates I know there will be little or no residue. Even when using an intake filter, bulbs and glass develop a thin layer of grime capable of compromising their performance. This grime can block valuable light from reaching the plants. In some cases this may reduce light output by 10% or more. Consistently sanitizing the bulbs and glass will help maintain the fixture’s maximum light output. It is a good rule of thumb to also periodically sanitize any reflective material in your growroom to remove light inhibiting grime.
Along the same timeline as reflector glass and bulb mainte-nance (about every other month), it is a good idea to inspect and sanitize all the hardware in your growroom. For hard-ware with exposed circuitry, such as ballasts and controllers with ventilation ports for heat dissipation, compressed air is a
great way to remove debris and maintain the hardware’s effi-ciency while extending its life. The compressed air cans
used to clean computers work great for grow-ers who don’t have access to large air
compressor units. Air conditioners, dehumidifiers, heaters, carbon
dioxide emitters, atmo-spheric controllers, light timers and fans should all be
inspected and sanitized on a regular basis. For much of this
hardware, which is designed and built to withstand abuse, a simple
wipe down may be all that is needed.
“it is a good idea for indoor horticulturists to get into a
routine of removing bulbs and glass from the reflectors for a
good wipe down.”
“compressed air is a great way to remove debris and maintain
the hardware’s efficiency while extending its life.”
“it is unnecessary, and probably counterproductive,
to try and sterilize everything within an indoor garden.”
SterilizationSterilization is a more involved cleaning process and refers to the elimination of micro-organisms including fungi, bacteria, spores and viruses. Sterilization can be achieved by using heat, filtration or chemical cleaners—the most common method for the indoor gardener being the chemical clean-ers. Sterilization is generally used more selectively within an indoor growroom. In other words, it is unnecessary, and probably counterproductive, to try and sterilize everything within an indoor garden. The items normally sterilized by horticulturists are hydroponic systems, planting containers, cloning chambers or other places where plants are most sensitive to pathogens. The most common chemical clean-ers used as sterilizing agents in horticulture are bleach and hydrogen peroxide. When you are sterilizing with a chemical cleaner it is always a good idea to wear gloves and goggles to protect yourself from potentially abrasive chemicals.
Common household bleach usually contains the active ingredient sodium hypochlorite, which is the same chemi-cal compound commonly used in disinfecting waste water
at treatment plants. Bleach is a great sterilizer but can leave a residual so equipment needs to be double or triple rinsed. After every harvest, a hydroponic crop grower can create a bleach bath (1:1 water to bleach) to soak the hydroton, air-stones, submersible pumps and net pots to
ensure they are all sterilized before starting the next crop. After soaking
in bleach solution, growers should triple rinse all equipment
before using it again to ensure all poten-tially harmful resi-
dues have been removed. Hydrogen peroxide
(H2O2) is water with an additional unstable oxygen molecule or an oxidizer. Its composition is truly valuable to the horticulturist because as hydrogen peroxide breaks down and loses its unstable
“bleach is a great sterilizer but can leave a residual so equipment needs
to be double or triple rinsed.”
oxygen molecule, it turns into water: H2O. Water is obvi-ously non-toxic to plants and beneficial micro-organisms so it is an ideal byproduct of sterilization. I prefer hydro-gen peroxide to bleach for the sterilization of reservoirs, hydroponic systems and all propagation equipment includ-ing clone machines. Reservoirs, cloning equipment and hydroponic systems can be wiped down with a clean rag saturated in 3% hydrogen peroxide. For larger hydroponic systems or systems that are too difficult to wipe down, a diluted 35% hydrogen peroxide (2:1 water to 35% hydro-gen peroxide) solution can be run through the system for one hour. Rinse the system with clean water to rinse out any remaining hydrogen peroxide before returning the plants. For sterilizing clone machines, run a 4:1 water to 35% hydrogen peroxide solution for about an hour. As with the hydroponic system, rinse with clean water before returning clones to the machine. Extreme caution must be used with hydrogen peroxide especially when it is in higher concentrations. Growers should always protect skin and eyes from contact with concentrated peroxide.
In conclusionSanitization and sterilization are the most effective preventive measures against insects, molds, pathogenic fungi and plant viruses. Just like automotive maintenance is imperative to keeping a vehicle working efficiently, sanitization and steriliza-tion techniques are imperative to keeping the garden and its hardware operating at an optimal performance level. Very few things in the realm of indoor gardening are low cost and high return. Where these rare opportunities exist, an indoor horticulturist must capitalize. Indoor horticulturists spend vast sums of money on lighting, ventilation and nutrient regimens to help boost production. These things are all important and absolutely contribute to high yielding gardens. By integrating sanitization and sterilization practices, gardeners can protect their investments and dramatically change the outcome of their garden’s performance at a minimal cost.
At its simplest form, cation exchange capacity (CEC) can be described as the capacity of your growing media to hold nutrients or other chemicals, which is directly related to the amount of negatively charged ions present. When delving into this subject, it is important to remember that a cation is a positively charged particle and an anion is the analogous negatively charged particle. This is important because we are
primarily concerned with our media’s capacity to bind or release our positively charged fertilizer nutrient ions. Some of these positively charged nutrients or “cations” that we are most concerned with include potassium, sodium, magnesium and calcium, all of which play a large role in plant develop-ment. The roots of our plants as well as the micro-organisms in our media exchange their free hydrogen ions for these nutrient ions, allowing for the fertilizer to be utilized. AD
thE CApACItY FoR (Ex)ChANgE
“it is important to remember that a cation is a positively
charged particle and an anion is the analogous negatively
Typically, CEC is measured with the unit MEQ/100g which stands for milli-equivilants per 100 grams; this allows for an easier conversion to real-life units such as grams per square foot or pounds per acre. The lower this CEC measure-ment, the less capacity the media has to hold onto the positively charged nutri-ents we mentioned above. This is where hydroponic and soil media vary and why the nutrient management is different between the two models. Rockwool, a popular media in the hydroponic indus-try, has a CEC of zero meaning it pos-sesses no negative charge to form bonds with our positively charged fertilizers, allowing for extreme optimization of our nutrient delivery but also leaving little
margin for error. On the opposite side of the spectrum, a soil media that is com-prised of mostly organic matter or clay has a much higher CEC; this means that constant fertilization is not a necessity, but in turn is more difficult to remediate if something becomes out of balance. Even the type of clay present in your soil can directly affect CEC properties. There are a couple of ways that we can
go about determining what the CEC of our growing media is. The easiest being a visual inspection to determine the levels of each material. By looking at the ratio of inorganic material such as sand com-pared to organic material such as humus,
we can determine if our CEC is high or low. An exact calculation of CEC can be done by taking a look at the soil pH as well as the amounts of potassium, magnesium and calcium present.
“thE loWER thIS CEC MEASUREMENt, thE lESS CApACItY thE MEdIA
hAS to hold oNto thE poSItIvElY ChARgEd NUtRIENtS.” AD
This calculation is usually best left to the experts at a soil testing laboratory, which many large universities possess. It is often worth contacting your local extension agent to determine where the best place is to send your sample. When you receive your CEC lab report,
it will often contain a table detailing the base saturation percentages of the ele-ments mentioned above. The remaining percentage of your media represents the unsaturated bonds available to be filled with fertilizer elements. By look-ing at these numbers, we can determine exactly how much more fertilizer we can add to our media. This is done by first taking into account the atomic weight and charge of each element we would like to add. For example, potassium has an atomic weight of 39 and a charge of +1. If we remember that hydrogen has the atomic weight of 1 and in this example our media has CEC of 1, it would take 39 times as much potassium to fill up the empty hydrogen sites. To calculate the remaining CEC that can be filled with our fertilizer elements, we simply multiple our given CEC by the remaining base saturation percentage and then divide that number by 100. For example, if we have a total base satura-tion of 80% and a CEC of 40, we have 20% left to fill that we multiply by 40, giving us 800/100 or an available CEC of 8 MEQ/100g. From these basic equa-tions we can conclude that the heavier the atomic weight of our soil, the larger the capacity for heavier cations. The implications that our CEC values
have on our gardens are huge and can influence the type of fertilizer we use, the frequency of fertilization and even the length of our final flush of nutrients. Because media that have a higher CEC have a larger fertilizer holding capacity, it will take longer to flush the media
of dissolved salts which can affect your nutrient management choices. Media such as sand and perlite have such a small CEC that all of our plant’s nutri-ents will need to be constantly supplied. These examples are much different than a soil media that has large amounts of organic material meaning a large nutri-ent holding capacity. Coco coir, an interesting hybrid of
soil and hydroponic production, has been gaining popularity throughout the indoor gardening industry and poses some interesting management obstacles. Because it has a very small CEC, it can be treated very much like a normal hydroponic application with a pH adjusted nutrient solution that sup-plies all of your plant’s fertilizer needs. But in its raw form, coco coir possesses negatively charged ions that will bind to some of our nutrients, the most common of which is calcium. Most commercially produced loose coco is treated with a process that fills up these negatively charged ions, but when using the brick form, it is important to keep this fact in mind. By boosting your calcium levels early in the growing cycle, you can effectively fill up these negative ions yourself. In reality, not all of us are going to run
out and get a CEC analysis done of our growing media, but by keeping these basic principles in mind we can further optimize our growing environment.
“ thE IMplICAtIoNS thAt oUR CEC vAlUES hAvE oN oUR gARdENS ARE hUgE ANd CAN INFlUENCE thE tYpE oF FERtIlIzER WE USE.”
Plants require an agreeable environment, which includes nutrients and light, to grow properly, but often times the subject of light is misunderstood because a plant’s needs are so different from those of people. A good under-standing of light requires knowledge about spectrum, intensity and distribution, as well as the impact each has on plants and their surroundings. Any good understand-ing begins with what it is and how to measure it. Light is made up of two components: spectrum—the color of the light, and intensity—how much light. Please note that the following discussion has leafy greens in mind.
ColorLight colors are measured in nanometers and many will be familiar with the representation in Fig. 1 where the absorption is graphed. Note that the light color moves from blue through green and yellow to red. What is not shown is the ultraviolet (UV) that precedes the blue and the infrared (IR) that follows the red. Photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) is often the term used for the range from 400 to 700 nanometers (nm). The nanometer is the measure of the width of the light radiation wave.
Fig. 1 shows the relative absorption at each wavelength of the more important phytochemicals, the chlorophylls and carotenoids that actually do work in the plant. Many take this graphic to mean that a plant needs more in the blue range and less in the red. To the contrary, the absorption is not an indicator of the efficiency that the particular spectrum has on the plant’s actions. The action spectrum is in Fig. 2 and clearly shows a greater emphasis on the red than the blue. We know that we only need light in the blue and red colors to grow delicious leafy greens, so even this graph does not tell the whole story. Plants have evolved multiple pathways from photoreceptors to the chemical processes that make more plant tissue and fluids. This means that although light at 500 nm is absorbed and is active, it is not necessary. Research again has shown that blue is important to morphology of the leafy green and red to the yield of the leafy green. If we are looking at flowering, we need some additional colors.
Fig. 1
400 500 600 700violet blue green yellow orange red
Wavelength (nm)
Rela
tive
abso
rptio
n→
carotenoid
chlorophyll a
chlorophyll b
a
b
lEARNINg AboUt lIght
Now note the superimposed orange line on this graph which is the spectrum of a high pressure sodium (HPS) lamp. Note the red bracket that spans the range of red light that is most efficient. Clearly we need a lamp that does a better job of supplying light in the most efficient color range. Some growers believe that each plant has a special range of colors needed to grow properly. We can see from the above that most plants grow well in a wide range. However, more specificity is required if we wish to optimize the yield and quality of a plant. Although PAR (400 to 700 nm) is the measured
spectral range for a PAR meter and is the light most referred to in luminaires used in horticulture, UV that is below 400 nm has an impact on plant quality. UV can stimulate plant protective compounds and thickening of leaves. Far red (700 to 740 nm) also impacts plants. For instance, if one alters red and far red light to a lettuce seed, germination will follow red but not far red. IR (above 740) can impact plants by heating the leaves, a growth promoter lost when moving from incandescent to LED lighting. Do not miss the idea that as the plant
moves from seed to flower-ing the color required is likely different and the choice important. In human
lighting, the wavelength is not often used. Instead the color is often represented as Kelvins; 2,700 Kelvins is liter-ally the reddish color given
Fig. 2
violet blue green yellow orange redWavelength (nm)
off by carbon heated to 2,700 degrees Kelvin. Fig. 3 shows the Kelvin scale. You should immediately recognize that the warm (lower Kelvin, even though it is cooler in temperature, we associate red with heat and blue with cold) lamp has more red and thus would best suit leafy green growing. For human purposes, light quality goes even further to provide a rendering index, or how we humans see the reflected light compared to certain standards, but none of this means anything to a plant. There is a com-plication for the grower; however, the intensity at lower Kelvins is less and thus the efficiency of the luminaire is less.
IntensItyWe just discussed the wave behavior of light and now we need to explore the particle behavior of light. Light intensity, or illuminance, comes in a lot of measures:
• Lumens:theamountoflightonasurfacethatis a given distance from the point source of light
No worries, none of them mean a thing to plants, nor are they convertible to the measure of import—the photon. They can’t be converted because the intensity is weighted for the human eye, not the plant need. Some have estimated the conversion of lux to photosyn-thetic photon flux density (PPFD), but it is dependent on the specific lamp used and is still only an estimate. Note that the use of an energy measure like watts per unit area is sometimes included in the luminaire
specification. A plant depends less on the energy
contained in light and more on the number of photons—the
PPFD. One might best think of grow-ing plants as getting the right number of
photons of the best spectra to the plant just in time. This is why only a PAR meter with an
appropriate sensor can tell you what the plant sees and needs. Two measures are used. The instantaneous measure of a PAR meter is the photons raining down atthatinstantandismeasuredasµmol•m-2•s-1ormicro moles per square meter per second. If you make this into 24 hours (multiply by 60 seconds, 60 minutes and 24 hours and then divide by a million), or all the photons that rained down during the day, you get the DLI in moles per square meter per day. The optimal intensity varies with the plant.The intensity of light has an impact on plants. More
importantly the total light in a 24-hour period called the daily light integral (DLI) is what counts. For many plants the use of continuous light is okay, for others a rest period is required, plants are then said to have a photoperiod or to be diurnal. Because really high light intensities can damage the plant—think of the photons coming in too fast—we can’t supply all of the DLI in a couple of hours. It seems that if the plant is not diurnal, then it is best to keep the intensity lower and leave it on longer for best yields. The intensity can be lowered even further in the presence of increased carbon dioxide. This will save energy.
DIstrIbutIonThe ability of a luminaire (lamp, driver, controller, reflector and fixture as appropriate) to deliver an
even illuminance is important. For instance, an HPS luminaire comes with a reflector. The result may look likeFig.4,agraphofPPFD(µmol•m-2•s-1)wheretwo HPS 400-w lamps are measured at 40 in. below the bulb. The plant yield as expected did follow this pattern. A better reflector design would help.A potential numerical descriptor of even distribu-
tion would be the use of relative standard deviation (RSD). This number uses measurements made over a grid below the luminaire at a given distance.
Fig. 4
This distance should be from luminaire to applica-tion. Calculate the standard deviation and make it a percent of the average value. For one of the luminaires in Fig. 4, the RSD is 36%. A perfectly even distribution would be an RSD of 0%. A set
for human purposes, light quality goes even
further to provide a rendering index, or
how we humans see the reflected light compared
to certain standards, but none of this means anything to a plant.”
of T-5 fluorescent bulbs as shown in Fig. 5 has an RSD of 17%. Do note that the surfaces surrounding the light will impact the results, as will the distance between luminaire and grid surface. The dis-tribution of spectra is also important when mono-chromatic LEDs are used.
FInal thoughtsArtificial light or electric lighting comes in a lot of forms: incandescent, fluorescent, high intensity dis-
charge, LED and induction lamps, for example. The type does not matter if you get the color, intensity and distribution that plants need. The meaningful
comparison then becomes the cost of the
luminaire and the energy to run it. Do be careful if someone
says that a luminaire is 95% efficient —I hope you now understand now that it
just can’t be. The comparative efficiency mea-sure could be PPFD/watt for a given area, equiva-
lent spectra and low relative standard deviation. Light spectra may drift over time and this is not
likely much of a worry. The bigger worry is the loss of intensity over time as the yield of plants will decline proportionately. It is measured as the L-70 or when a luminaire reaches 70% of its original inten-sity. This varies among and between the various types of luminaires. Because the technology in LEDs is changing very rapidly, the L-70 would be an estimate only. So if possible, when you purchase a lamp, get a spectroradiograph, the PPFD, the L-70 and the distribution information.
For further reading:
The RPI Lighting Research Center lrc.rpi.edu
Photobiology of Higher Plants by Maurice S. McDonald. 2003. John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
Patterns of Light by Steven Beeson and James W. Mayer. 2008. Springer Science and Business Media, LLC.
The MythAs we enter the hottest months of the year, another bit of well-meaning advice rears its annual head. Magazine articles, books and websites all warn against watering plants during the heat of the day. Those water drops that accumulate on the leaf surfaces act as tiny magnifying glasses, focus-ing the sun’s energy into intense beams that burn leaves. Furthermore, we’re told that since water efficiently conducts heat, wet leaf surfaces are more likely to burn than dry ones. This all sounds very plausible (it has the patina of physics, after all) and there is anecdotal evidence that seems to support a cause-and-effect relationship between midday watering and leaf dieback.
The RealityThis is one of those myths that refuses to die. Although most (but not all!) of the .edu websites I checked dispel this myth, hundreds of other domains on the web keep the misinforma-tion alive. If your plants are showing signs of water stress in the middle of the day, by all means you should water them! Postponing irrigation until the evening (not a good time to water anyway, as this can encourage fungal pathogens) or the following morning could damage your plants and open them up to opportunistic diseases. There are many causes of leaf scorch, but irrigation with
fresh water is certainly not one of them. Hundreds of sci-entific publications on crop plants, turf, woody shrubs and trees have examined foliar scorch, and not one of them has implicated midday irrigation as a causal agent. What does cause damage, however, is suboptimal plant-water relations, which can result in tip and marginal leaf scorch, shoot die-back, stunted growth and leaf abscission. After drought, the most common source of these problems is salt, in particular salts containing either sodium (Na), chlorine (Cl) or both.Salt can enter a plant’s microhabitat by spray from the
ocean or other salt water bodies, or by runoff from road de-icing salts. These are relatively localized occur-rences and far more damage occurs with salts in soils or irrigation water. Some of these salts come from over-application of fertilizers, herbicides and insecticides. Others are naturally found in irrigation water as it runs through particu-larly saline soils. This tends to be a more significant problem in arid climates. In urban areas, irrigation with recycled or gray water can add toxic levels of salt to the plant’s environment.Plants that are not adapted
to dry or saline environ-ments have a difficult time maintaining optimal water balance when that water contains salt.
and we know what happens when we put salt onto slugs in
the garden. The dehydration and death you expect from these examples also occurs in plant
tissues, and in particular those tissues that transpire the most water —the leaves. Salts can reduce root function, and thus reduce water transport to the leaves, or they can accu-mulate in the leaves themselves. In either case, water loss occurs first at the tips and margins of the leaves and will lead to tip and marginal necrosis if not treated promptly.Besides drought and salt, other causes of leaf scorch
include wind stress, high temperatures, reflected light and cold stress. All of these environmental stressors are directly linked to decreasing water availability in leaves. Poor root health, imperiled by soil compaction, flooding or restricted space, will also induce leaf scorch. Lack of foliar potassium (the “K” in fertilizers) prevents leaves from regulating stomatal openings and leads to higher water loss. Urea, contained in some fertilizers and in urine, can burn foli-age and is a common cause of turf damage. Regardless of the cause, leaves deficient in water have been shown to be more susceptible to opportunistic pests and pathogens including mites and fungal leaf scorch.To prevent leaf scorch, it’s important to have environ-
mental conditions conducive to optimal root health, which include adequate moisture, oxygen, space, temperature and nutrients are part of a healthy root zone. Some studies have found additional nitrogen helps prevent leaf scorch (perhaps by increasing root growth and uptake capabili-ties). Secondly, it’s crucial to watch foliage for signs of wilt. Once leaf tissues have passed the terminal wilt stage, no amount of water will save them. People that don’t recog-nize the signs of terminal wilt and add water anyway might
then associate their midday watering with the marginal and tip leaf burn that follows. Again, consider the plant’s needs in terms of sun and shade requirements; a shade-loving plant in an area with high light exposure, reflected heat, wind or temperature extremes is going to show leaf burn on a continuing basis.
The Bottom Line•Wetfoliageisnotsusceptibletosunburn.•Analyzesiteconditionstoensureoptimalrootandshoot
health and prevent drought problems.•Anytimeplantsexhibitdroughtstresssymptomsisthe
time to water them.•Optimalwateringtimeisintheearlymorning;watering
during the day increases evaporative losses, and evening watering regimes can encourage establishment of some fungal pathogens.
•Donotoverusefertilizersandpesticides,especiallythosecontaining sodium or chloride salts.
•Ifusingrecycledorgraywater,considerrunningthewaterthrough a filtering system before applying it to plants.
Author Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., is an extension horticulturalist and an associate professor at Washington State University’s Puyallup Research and Extension Center. She can be found online at theinformedgarden.com
“besides drought and salt, other causes of leaf scorch
include wind stress, high temperatures, reflected light
There are many places where water comes from, and each source affects your plants differently. Read on to learn about the different water sources you are likely to encounter as you enter the realm of hydroponic growing.
greater skill and knowledge on the part of the grower. It could certainly create a challenge to a novice gar-dener. You should have your water tested and take the results to your local hydroponic retailer for recommendations. They will be able to help the beginner make sound choices for optimal results.
rain waterThis one can also fall into the questionable bracket as pollutants are often the par-ticulate matter that raindrops form around. Many people have great success with rain water but living down wind of a chemical plant may make you think twice. Follow the same advice that you would for well water.
distilled waterDistilled water has many of its impurities removed through a process called distillation, which involves boiling the water and condensing the steam into a new container.
“ro produces a consistent water supply and has fewer worries than
other sources due to its low mineral content and preferred ph level.”
tap waterTap water is unique to every municipality and will probably test differently depending on where you live. The greatest concern is the level of chlorine that is put into the water supply. One concern is that plants do not like chlorine and the second concern is that it kills off all the beneficial bacteria. Although chlorine dissipates in water after a day or two, newer chlorine-based chemical additives may not. The bottom line is that you will be able to get good, but maybe not ideal, results from using tap water. The one exception to this is treating water with water softeners. The high salt con-tent can kill the plants.
well waterThis can potentially be one of the least desirable of all the options. Some wells, but certainly not all, can have extremely high mineral con-tent. Although not an insur-mountable problem, it takes
Sourcing Water for Your Hydroponic GardenWater
Comes From:
Where
The wonderful thing about the Internet is that there is so much information available at your fingertips. The frustrating thing about the Internet is there is so much information available at your fingertips. It is like drinking from the virtual fire hose and you are being deluged by well-meaning advocates from all the dif-ferent camps: tap water, well, rain, reverse osmosis, distilled and others.For the novice gardener,
this can be both intimidat-ing and paralyzing, but it
is not necessary to have all the answers up front to be a successful grower. It may take time to refine your techniques, but remember, you are also building a new vocabulary and knowledge base. Here are a few simple rules to help point you in the right direction and make your experiences as stress free as possible. In a nutshell, here is a look at some of the different water sources you will encounter as a hydroponic gardener, and what each one could mean for your plants.
by Susan Eitel
108 Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
BEGINNER’S CORNER
uv systemThe wavelength of ultraviolet (UV) rays is lethal to bacteria. In a UV system, as the water passes by the UV bulb, any living microbes are immedi-ately destroyed. Separate filters can be installed to trap sedi-ments. The combined result is a potable water supply. A UV system can be installed at the water source as it enters the building, purifying all water on site, or smaller units can be installed directly to a single faucet purifying the water at only that selected location. UV bulbs must be replaced annu-ally, but the cost of running the system is no more than the cost of powering a low-wattage light bulb. Plants need ben-eficial bacteria and these can be added quite easily after the water passes through the UV system. Like RO systems, they come with a larger price tag, but they are becoming much more affordable, especially the smaller site-specific models.
in conclusionThe information above is only a cursory examination of water systems available to the hydroponic grower, and admittedly, it is neither complete nor robust. The fervor created over preferred systems can be quite intimi-dating to the beginner, but hopefully this article will help dispel the anxiety of information overload and instruc-tional bias. Learn, have fun and most importantly, don’t be afraid. No matter the source, plants tend to grow better with water than without.
Because of this treatment process, distilled water is more costly and can have a lower pH value than what is desirable. However, distilled water is prized for its lower mineral content. You can easily enjoy a good crop using it; just keep an eye on the pH levels.
reverse osmosisReverse osmosis (frequently referred to as RO) is the preferred water source for most growers. Be aware that it comes with a price tag, but many home systems are quickly becoming more affordable, making it worth a very serious look. RO produces a consistent water supply and has fewer worries than other sources due to its low mineral content and preferred pH level.
There are many factors that must be regu-lated when gardening indoors. One of the most difficult elements of indoor gardening to control is the tem-perature of the nutrient solution in your reser-voir. The ideal tempera-ture of the solution is important. It regulates the amount of oxygen the water can hold, the reproduction of harm-ful root-born insects, the metabolicrate within the plant, and it can also affect the concen-tration of nutrients pres-ent as evaporation takes place. There are many ways to regulate and maintain the ideal nutrient solution temperature in your reser-voir to be between 60 to 75°F. Maintain the
ideal reservoir tem-perature and watch your plants thrive. Problem: Reservoir is too coldSolution: Often we might find that the nutrient solution in our reservoir is too cold. This can cause a number of problems. When the nutrient solution is too cold (below 60°F) it will shock your plants and slow down the metabolic processes within the plant. This can stunt the growth of your plants.There are a few ways of
dealing with reservoirs that are too cold. Cold reservoirs are more often than not caused by plants being grown
in basements during cold winter months. You can often remedy this by simply keeping
the reservoir elevated off of the
It is importantfor the temperature of
your nutrients to stay in the range of 60 to 75°f because if it exceeds
this range, the oxygen levels in the water are significantly reduced
and plants need plenty of oxygen to survive.”
Maintain your indoorgardening reservoir’s ideal temperature and you’ll soon be watching your plants thrive.
Maximum Yield USA | August 2013110
AVANT GARDENING
cold floor. A lot of heat can be transferred between the floor and the reservoir. If this doesn’t solve the low temperature problem, utilizing an aquarium heater is the next solution. They can be purchased at aquarium supply stores or many hydroponic retail-ers. They can be set to maintain the ideal nutri-ent solution tempera-ture during the colder months of the year.
Problem: Reservoir is too warm
Solution: It is far more common for the temperature of the nutrient solution in your reservoir to be too warm (above 75°F) than too cold. This is largely due to the lights used to garden indoors. High-intensity discharge lighting can give out great amounts of heat, especially if you are growing in a small, confined space such as a closet or spare bed-room. It is important for the temperature of your nutrients to stay in the range of 60 to 75°F because if it exceeds this range, the oxygen levels in the water are significantly reduced and plants need plenty of oxygen to survive. Overly warm nutrient solution evaporates more quickly and can become too concentrated, which might end up burn-ing plants. It can also lead to the production of harmful bacteria, fungi and root-born insects.Exhausting the warm air with a high-pow-
ered fan can usually reduce the temperature of your grow space, but there are other
methods that can help keep your nutrient solution within the ideal
temperature range. Keeping your reservoir outside of the grow-
room is one great way to keep it from getting too warm.
This can be accomplished by using a more power-ful submersible pump to move the water greater distances. Another way is to keep the reservoir
covered with black and white plastic with the white side facing up to reflect the light away.If these methods are
not effective enough, you may want to con-sider implementing a reservoir chiller to maintain the ideal nutri-ent solution tempera-ture. Reservoir chillers are like air condition-ers for your reservoir. They can be set for a certain temperature and will remove the excess heat from the solution. Reservoir chillers are not the least expensive
methods for regulating temperature, but they are extremely effective and will reduce the need to crank the air conditioning in your growroom.
In conclusionFollowing these guidelines will certainly help any gardener regulate and maintain the temperature of the nutrient solution in their reservoir. This will lead to healthy and strong plants and happy, carefree gardeners.
Have your own ideas? Share them with other Maximum Yield readers on our Facebook page, or email [email protected]
Exhaustingthe warm air with a
high-powered fan can usually reduce the
temperature of your grow space, but there are other methods that can help keep your nutrient solution within the ideal
temperature range.”
111Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
In the February 2013 issue of Maximum Yield, we published the article “Organic Fertilizer Elemental Contents: Do You Know What You’re Feeding Your Plants?” There is, however, more to the story, and it comes with a warning: companion elements in organic fertilizers can be deadly.
A little while ago, a home vegetable gardener growing organically yearly applied poultry litter compost as his nitrogen (N) source. In the initial years, plant growth and product yield were excellent. In the fourth year, however, plant growth had slowed and there were visual signs of possible plant nutrient element deficiencies. In addition, product yield was also declining. Wanting to know why these changes were occurring,
the gardener asked his local agricultural county exten-sion agent to come identify the plants’ visual symptoms and help him determine their cause. Before making a judgment, the county agent collected a soil sample for submission to the state’s soil testing laboratory. The soil test results were given to me for interpretation and suggested corrective treatment. The soil phosphorus (P) level was 10 times that for sufficiency, while the ratio among the major plant nutrient element cations, potas-sium (K), calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg), was not in balance. My comment to the county agent was to tell the gardener that there was nothing that could be done for dealing with the excessive soil P level, while the lack of balance among the cations could be corrected, but not easily. Therefore, my recommendation was to have the home gardener locate another garden site, and defi-nitely no longer use the poultry litter compost.
What had happened? The poultry litter compost was not only high in nitrogen (N), the reason for its selec-tion, but it was also high in P and K, far beyond plant requirements. With yearly application of this compost, the accumulation of both P and K in the soil was the reason for the poor plant growth and declining product yield. What users of organic fertilizer materials must be aware
of is that most of these materials are naturally occurring; therefore, they will contain various levels of most of the plant essential elements. Animal manures are usually high in the fertilizer elements, N, P and K, and composts that are derived from a mix of an animal manure and
“animal manures are usually high in the fertilizer elements, n, p and k, and
composts that are derived from a mix of an animal manure and plant material
will result in a concentration of these elements in the composting process.”
In the February 2013 issue of Maximum Yield, we published the article “Organic Fertilizer Elemental Contents: Do You Know What You’re Feeding Your Plants?” There is, however, more to the story, and it comes with a warning: companion elements in organic fertilizers can be deadly.
Companion Elements
Organic Fertilizersin
BY DR. J. BENTON JONES, JR.
plant material will result in a concentration of these elements in the composting process. Therefore, the user needs to know what is the elemental content of applied compost and the supplier should provide that information. In some instances, the fertilizer value of an organic fertilizer may be given, expressed as the percentage of N, P2O5 and K2O. However, it is not unusual that the levels given are as approximate values, whereas the user needs to know the exact values. For some organic fertilizer products there are pub-lished elemental content values. Therefore, one might
surmise that these published values are applicable to that particular material irrespective of its
source. Unfortunately, such values may not apply; therefore, the elemental content of
the product being purchased needs to be known based on an assay of that particu-
lar batch. The range in elemental con-tent may be considerable as was found by an elemental assay of five worm
casting (vermicast) products, whose elemental content data were recently published in the May 2013 issue of
Maximum Yield. Such ranges in elemental concentration would affect the compost’s
application rate, and in turn when misap-plied, lead to potential insufficiencies based
on an assumed elemental content concentra-tion, and not based on the actual elemental
content of that particular batch.As was noted in the experience described at
the beginning of this article, the home gardener had not had his soil tested, an essential require-
ment to determine the initial fertility status of his soil. Then, by yearly testing, he could monitor the
soil’s fertility status, and in this case, that being affected by the poultry litter compost being yearly applied. He could also observe what effect his cropping procedures were having on the soil’s fertility status. The soil test would have revealed the buildup in P content and the developing imbalance occurring among the cations, K, Ca and Mg, so that corrective steps could have been taken, thereby saving his garden site. When considering the selection of an organic fertilizer,
find out what the major element content is as well as other companion elements. It may be that a compan-ion element or elements will result in a plant nutrient element insufficiency, an insufficiency that is frequently not easily corrected after the fact. As was learned by the home gardener mentioned at the beginning of this article, it was the companion elements P and K in the poultry litter compost that resulted in the loss of his garden site, as his selection of the poultry litter compost was made based only on its N content. Before selecting an organic fertilizer, read the label
and ask the provider of the product being considered to provide an actual elemental content assay for that material, not estimated content values. Inaccurate elemental content data can lead to misapplications, with the probable result being poor plant performance, or rendering the rooting medium infertile. In my own personal experience, with the range of products avail-able to a grower today, there is far greater danger in over fertilization and applying elements not needed as well as misapplication that can lead to plant nutrient element imbalances rather than insufficiencies due to a single element inadequacy. Deficiencies are easy to cor-rect, excesses and imbalances are not. Therefore, care in selecting an organic fertilizer product is essential by knowing its actual elemental contents, not its estimated or literature-derived values.
“before selecting an organic fertilizer, read the label and ask the provider of the
product being considered to provide an actual elemental content assay for that material, not estimated content values.”
Several important factors have to be considered when preparing hydroponic nutrient solutions:
•Waterquality,suchassalinityand concentration of potential harmful elements (like sodium, chlorides and boron)
•Requirednutrientsandtheir concentrations in the hydro-ponic nutrient solution
•Nutrientbalance
•ThepHofthehydroponic
nutrient solution and its effect on uptake of nutrients by plants
Handling HydroponicNutrientSolutions
There is more to a nutrient solution than meets the eye or the label.
Carefully consider these tips before preparing your next batch. by guy sela
The Electrical Conductivity (EC) of the Hydroponic Nutrient SolutionThe electrical conductivity is a measure of the total salts dissolved in the hydroponic nutrient solution. It is used for monitor-ing applications of fertilizers. Note that the EC reading doesn’t provide you with information regarding the exact mineral content of the nutrient solution. In closed hydroponics systems, the hydroponic nutrient solution is recirculated and ele-ments that are not absorbed in high quan-tities by plants (such as sodium, chloride,
120 Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
GROWING FOR HEALTH
fluoride, etc.) or ions released by the plant, build up in the hydroponic nutrient solution. In this case there is a need for more information about the nutrient solution content that EC cannot provide. Testing the hydroponic nutri-ent solution frequently will help you decide on the timing for replacing the nutrient solution or when to dilute it with fresh water.
pH of the Hydroponic Nutrient SolutionThe optimal pH range of the hydro-ponic nutrient solution is 5.8 to 6.3. Mi-cronutrients are more available in lower pH, but when pH levels drop below 5.5, you run the risk of micronutrient toxic-ity, as well as impaired availability of cal-cium and magnesium. In hydroponics, especially in closed systems, the roots readily effect the hydroponic solution pH, so pH tends to fluctuate. Appropri-ate products for acidifying the hydro-ponic nutrient solution are sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and nitric acid. Ammonium/nitrate is one of the major factors affecting the pH of the nutrient solution. Be sure to check a plant nutri-ent availability chart for specifics.
Water QualityA hydroponic nutrient solution consists of miner-als in the raw water and nutrients added with fertil-izers. The selection of fer-tilizers and their concen-tration in the hydroponic nutrient solution greatly depend on the quality of the raw water. Therefore, testing the raw water prior to deciding on a fertilizer formula is imperative. Minerals such as calcium, magnesium and sulfur, as well as trace elements such as boron, manga-nese, iron and zinc may be
present in the source water. These elements must be factored in when adjusting the hydroponic nutrient solution. Additionally, raw water might contain high concentrations of unwanted minerals, such as sodium, chloride or fluoride, render-ing it unsuitable for hydroponics. This can be solved by diluting the water with a pure water supply or pre-treating the raw water with desalination or ion-exchange.
Bacteria are the magic in an aquaponics system that convert the fish waste to a near perfect plant fertilizer. In this article, and in future issues, we will de-mystify the process of establishing a beneficial bacteria colony in your aquaponics system. This process is often called system cycling. In this issue, I talk about cycling with fish and in the next issue I’ll go into how to cycle without fish. By the end of these two articles you will fully understand what you must do to initiate cycling and how to ensure its success. You will also understand what you can do to make the process less stressful for your fish and your plants, and what you can do to speed up the process.
What is Cycling?Cycling starts when your fish (or you) first add ammonia to your system. Ammonia (chemical formula NH3) is a compound made of nitrogen and hydrogen. It can come either from your fish or from other sources that we will discuss in the next issue. Ammonia is toxic to fish (more on this later) and will soon kill them unless it is either diluted to a non-toxic level or converted into a less toxic form of nitro-gen. Unfortunately, nitrogen as found in ammonia is not readily taken up by plants, so no matter how high the ammonia levels get in your fish tank, your plants will not be getting much nutrition from it.
The good news is that ammonia attracts nitro-somonas, the first of the two nitrifying bacteria that will colonize your system. The nitrosomonas convert the ammonia into nitrites (NO2). This is a nec-essary step in the cycling process; however, nitrites are even more toxic than ammonia! But again there is good news because the presence of nitrites attracts the second kind of bacteria we require: nitrospira. Nitrospira convert the nitrites into nitrates, which are gener-ally harmless to the fish and excellent food for your plants. Once you detect nitrates in your water and the ammo-nia and nitrite concentrations have both dropped to 0.5 ppm or lower, your system will be fully cycled and aquaponics will have officially begun!
The absence of these bacteria in
hydroponic systems caused nutrient solutions to slowly change into something that was poisonous to plants.”
Importance of Testing ToolsCycling typically requires four to six weeks to complete. With this is mind, as you proceed you need a way to tell where you are in the cycling pro-cess. Specifically, you must monitor ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels as well as pH so that you know that all these elements are in range, or if not, that you know that you may need to take corrective action. This is also the only way that you will know when you are fully cycled and ready to add more fish (or your first fish if you have been cycling with no fish at all). Plus, watching the daily progress of the cycling process is fascinating and something you can only see through the lens of a test kit. By the way, once you reach the point that your system is fully cycled, you will need to do much less monitoring than during the cycling process. So, get through the cycling process and look forward to reaping the fruits (or should we say, the fish) of your labor.
Cycling typically
requires four to six weeks to complete. with this is mind, as you proceed you
need a way to tell where you are in the cycling process.”
To do their testing, most aquaponic gardeners use a product by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals called the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. This kit is easy to use, is inexpensive, and is designed for monitoring the cycling process in fish systems.You will also need a submersible ther-
mometer to measure your water tem-perature. Temperature affects both the cycling rate and the health of your fish and plants once you are up and running.
Cycling with FishAmmonia is the ingredient that starts the cycling process. You must have some means to feed ammonia into the system so that you attract the bacteria that are at the heart of aquaponics. There are two ways to introduce ammonia into your system: with fish and without (fishless). In this article we talk about cycling with fish, and tackle fish-less cycling in a future article.
AmmoniaI cycled my first aquaponics system using fish and I suspect this is how most people approach cycling. In some ways it is the easier of the two meth-ods because there are no extra inputs. However, it is definitely the more stressful of the two options because live critters are involved.The idea is to add fish on day one and
hope that they make it through the cycling process alive. The challenge is to get the system cycled fast enough that the ammonia concentration from the fish waste drops to a non-toxic level before the fish succumb from exposure to their own waste. I strongly recom-mend that you don’t stock to your tank’s mature capacity (1 lb. of adult fish per 5 to 10 gal. of water) but to less than half that. You might also want to consider these fish as sacrificial and perhaps use inexpensive fish from the pet store. They are likely more tolerant of ammo-nia than the prized game fish with which you may ultimately envision stock-ing your tank. Also, do not feed these fish more than once a day and then, only feed them a small amount. AD
Fish excrete ammonia through their gills as a bi-product of their respiratory process. Without dilution, removal or conversion to a less toxic form of nitrogen, the ammonia will build up in the fish tank and eventually kill the fish. In addition, ammonia continually changes to ammonium (NH4+) and vice versa, with the relative concentrations of each depending on the water’s temperature and pH. Ammonia is extremely toxic to fish; ammonium is rela-tively harmless. At higher temperatures and pH, more of the nitrogen is in the toxic ammonia form.Standard test kits measure total ammonia (ammonia
plus ammonium) without distinguishing between the two forms. The chart provided on the following page gives the maximum long-term levels of ammonia in mg/L (ppm) that can be considered safe at a given tempera-ture and pH.
Temperature affects both the cycling
rate and the health of your fish and plants once you are
You will need to monitor your tank water daily during cycling for elevated ammonia levels. If those levels exceed the levels on the chart provided, you should dilute through a water exchange by pumping out up to one-third of your tank’s water and replac-ing it with fresh, de-chlorinated water.
Adjusting pHDuring cycling with fish, you should try and keep your pH between 6 and 7. The range does not go below 6 because most fish prefer slightly alkaline water and few fair well below 6. The range does not go above 7 because of the ammonia toxicity issue described earlier (higher pH readings suggest higher ammonia concentrations). So how do you keep pH in such a tight range? The first rule is, whatever you do to adjust pH in aquaponics, do it slowly! Fast, large pH swings are very stressful on fish and will be much more of a problem than having pH that is out of range. Shift your pH no more than 0.2 per day and you should be fine. The safest way to do this is to use diluted phosphoric acid. Don’t use citric acid as it is antibacterial! If you need to raise pH, alternately add calcium hydrox-ide—also known as hydrated lime or builder’s lime—and potassium car-bonate (or bicarbonate) or potassium hydroxide (pearl ash or potash). Typically, you will be trying to lower
pH during cycling, and then once your system is cycled you will probably notice that the pH will fall and you then need to switch to keeping it up. You will probably find that it is easier
Water Temperature
ph 68°f 77°f
6.5 15.4 ppm 11.1 ppm
7.0 5.0 ppm 3.6 ppm
7.5 1.6 ppm 1.2 ppm
8.0 0.5 ppm 0.4 ppm
8.5 0.2 ppm 0.1 ppm
whatever you do to adjust ph in aquaponics,
do it slowly! fast, large ph swings are very stressful on
fish and will be much more of a problem than having ph
to increase pH than it is to decrease it. The ideal pH of a mature aquaponics system is 6.8 to 7. This is a compromise between what the plants prefer, i.e., a slightly acidic environment of 5.5 to 6.5, and what the fish and bacteria prefer, i.e., a slightly alkaline environment as we discussed before.
NitriteNitrite is to fish like carbon monoxide is to air breathers. The nitrite will bind with the blood in place of oxygen and keep the fish from get-ting the oxygen it needs. Fish poisoned with nitrites die of what is called brown blood dis-ease. If the nitrite levels in your tank rise above 10 ppm while you are cycling your system with fish, you should do a water exchange as discussed above.
Adding PlantsI recommend adding plants to your new aqua-ponic system as soon as you start cycling. Plants can take up nitrogen in all stages of the cycling process to varying degrees, from ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, but they will be happiest when cycling is complete and the bacteria are fully established because so many more nutri-ents become available at this stage.When plants are first transplanted, they
focus on establishing their root systems in their new environment. You may ini-tially see some signs of stress—yellow-ing or dropped leaves—and you will probably not see any new growth for a few weeks. This is fine. Adding plants to your system right away lets them go through the rooting process early on and readies them to start removing the nitrogen-based fish waste from your aquaponics system as soon as possible.I recommend adding some
Maxicrop to get your plants off to a good start during cycling. Maxicrop is derived from Norwegian seaweed, is organic and is used primarily as a growth stimu-lant, especially to enhance plant root development. It is extremely effec-tive at giving plants a leg up after being transplanted into your new aquaponics system, is absolutely harmless to the fish, and probably beneficial for the bacteria. You can find Maxicrop in garden centers, hydroponic stores and online in both liquid and dryform.
Nitrite is to fish like carbon monoxide is to air breathers. the nitrite will bind with the blood in place of oxygen and keep the fish from getting the
While there are no hard and fast rules about how much Maxicrop to add during cycling, I recommend about a quart of the liquid product for every 250 gal. of water. It will turn your water almost black but don’t worry; this will clear up after a week or so.
Speeding up the ProcessCycling is in some sense akin to any hunting activity that uses a lure. We start by putting out the ammonia. This attracts the nitrosomonas bacteria which in-turn pro-duces nitrites. The nitrites attract the nitrospira bacteria that produce the nitrates that are harmless to the fish and delicious to the plants. These two beneficial nitrify-ing bacteria are naturally present in the environment. As I stated earlier, this process will take four to six weeks if done with fish, or as little as 10 days to three weeks if done fishless. But what if you could speed that up sig-nificantly? What if instead of waiting for the bacteria to show up to the party, they actually are part of the party to begin with? You can do this by introducing nitrifying bacteria into your aquaponics system.
Water temperature
dramatically affects cycling speed. the optimal temperature range for the
water is 77 to 86°f.”
132 Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
CYClINg
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Adding BacteriaWhile there are many ways to do this, they all boil down to two basic strategies: use bacteria from an existing aquaculture or aquaponics operation or from a near-by pond, or instead, pur-chase bacteria from a commercial source. Good sources of beneficial bacteria from existing systems are ranked here, starting with the best:
•Growmediafromanexisting aquaponics system
•Ahigh-qualitynitrifyingbacteriaproduct
•Filtermaterial(floss,sponge, biowheel, etc.) from an estab-lished, disease-free aquarium.
•Gravelfromanestablished, disease-free tank. (Many local pet and aquarium stores will give this away if asked.)
•Otherornaments(driftwood,rocks,etc.) from an established aquarium
•Squeezingsfromafiltersponge(any pet and aquarium store might be willing to do this.)
•Rocksfromabackyardpond with fish in it
Managing Water TemperatureWater temperature dramatically affects cycling speed. The optimal temperature range for the water is 77 to 86°F. At 64°F, bacteria growth slows by 50%. At 46 to 50ºF it decreases by 75%, and stops all together at 39°F. It will die off at or below 32ºF and at or above 120°F.
In ConclusionCycling with fish is the most widespread and straight-forward of the cycling techniques, and it certainly works. However, it is stressful to your fish and there-fore somewhat stressful for you. Next month we’ll go over another technique called fishless cycling that uses pure ammonia to cycle your system. Either way, it’s time to get up and grow!
133Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
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One of the most well-recognized advantages of hydro-ponics is the small root zone volume required by most crops. This means tidy, compact, yet highly efficient systems can be constructed indoors without the need for huge beds or deep containers of soil to contain the root systems of plants we want to grow. In the early days of the industry, one of the greatest advantages of hydro-ponics was touted as being that the regular supply of a well-balanced and complete nutrient solution meant there was always sufficient water and minerals for growth, thus a large root system would not be needed or produced by the plant. While this is partly true, root-ing volumes required by plants under well-managed soilless culture are considerably smaller than those of plants in soil. Taking this to extremes with highly restricted root zones can cause growth problems and a loss in hydroponic productivity. On the other hand, mild root restriction can have positive effects on some plants if applied correctly and with knowledge on how this may affect plant physiology.The more restrictive the hydroponic root zone volume,
the more well-managed the production system needs to be to ensure plants are supplied with the water, nutrients and oxygen they need for optimal growth and production. However, even a constant supply of water and nutrients cannot overcome all the constraints posed by an overly small root volume, and for that reason, an important aspect of
hydroponic system design is to use a suitable rooting volume for the type of plant to be grown. To complicate matters fur-ther, there are no exact recommendations for the optimal size of root zone volume for different hydroponic plants. Optimal root volume is dependant not only on the plant species and cultivar, but other system and environmental factors such as the frequency of nutrient application, and hence, replenish-ment of oxygen and nutrients, plus factors that influence the plants requirements for these.
Severe root restriction in hydroponics can reduce
potential growth and yields.
“the more restrictive the hydroponic root zone volume, the
more well-managed the production system needs to be to ensure
plants are supplied with the water, nutrients and oxygen they need for optimal growth and production.”
“since all the nutrients, water and oxygen required by a plant are
supplied via the nutrient solution, the root system does not need to rapidly grow and expand to forage for these resources in a large depth of soil.”
Root volume restriction during the seedling stages of growth needs to be carefully managed.
Some studies have been carried out to determine the effect of root zone volume and restriction on yields of crops, such as hydroponic tomatoes and peppers. It has been reported that the highest yields with peppers were obtained with a per-lite substrate volume of 4.38 to 4.75 gal. per plant (as com-pared to 0.87, 1.76, 2.37 and 8.71 gal. per plant); however, this response to substrate volume is also highly correlated to
the conditions the experiment was run under, rates of nutri-ent application and substrate aeration.Since all the nutrients, water and oxygen required by a
plant are supplied via the nutrient solution, the root system does not need to rapidly grow and expand to forage for these resources in a large depth of soil. However, root growth in plants, even in hydroponics, is a continual one, so
over time the root density increases as new roots are produced. The regeneration of new roots is in fact essential for normal plant development. Roots respond to gravity and to touch when they contact a solid surface, thus, in a restricted grow-ing container, they tend to head downwards and form a mat in the lower regions of the growing substrate. Eventually, with continual root growth, the point will be reached where extreme root binding occurs and overall plant growth restricted even with the regular supply of a nutrient solution. In very restricted root volumes, this prevention of further new root growth has been shown to be a result of both root self-inhibition and also caused
138 Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
thE REStRICtEd SECtIoN
“plants under certain conditions have a very high
requirement for oxygen within the root zone, particularly
under the protected and warm conditions provided year-
round with indoor gardens.”
by growth limiting factors such as root exudates. The size of the optimal rooting volume in hydroponics, therefore, must allow for this continual root growth, but at the same time, nutrients, water and oxygen being regularly sup-plied can be considerably less than that required by a soil-grown crop.
Root Restriction and hydroponicsWith hydroponics, we tend to largely forget what is hap-pening down in the root zone and often assume that since a well-balanced nutrient solution is being applied regularly, even if the roots have a very restricted volume for growth, they will be fine. In a perfectly designed hydroponic system, this may be the case; however, many systems, unbeknownst to the grower, can suffer from prob-lems directly related to root zone restriction. The most common of these is the availability of oxygen used by plant roots in the process of respiration.Plants under certain conditions have a very high require-
ment for oxygen within the root zone, particularly under the protected and warm conditions provided year-round
with indoor gardens. A restricted root zone has a limited potential to hold oxygen and thus relies heavily on oxygen replenishment, be that via dissolved oxygen in the nutri-ent or oxygen percolation down into the root zone during irrigation. If root requirement for oxygen is greater than the replenishment rate in a restricted volume, than root func-tion begins to slow, as does the uptake of water and nutrients. Eventually a lack of oxygen can cause root cell death increas-ing the risk of root diseases such as pythium. The more restricted the root zone volume, the greater the replenish-ment rate of oxygen must be. In hydroponics this can be achieved in a number of ways. First, some growing mediums contain larger pores than others and allow oxygen to disuse faster down into the root zone. Second, nutrient solutions carry dissolved oxygen so both increasing the dissolved oxygen content of the solution via aeration and making sure the root zone is not over saturated with water ensures more oxygen is available for root uptake.
Root-shoot communicationA traditional soil-grown tomato may average more than 52 gal. of rooting volume per plant, with almost unlimited access to soil depth to forage for water and nutrients. This can represent a considerable energy investment in root growth by the plant in search of resources for growth. In hydroponic water, nutrients and dissolved oxygen are deliv-ered to the root system on a regular, or in the case of solu-tion culture, continual basis, thus roots do not normally need to grow to excessive lengths in search of these. This should represent a better efficiency for plant growth in hydropon-ics—plants need to put less resources into growing large root systems, thus more energy can be diverted into the top of the plant. While this may seem to be simply a case of fewer roots and more shoot, flower, fruit or seed growth, there are other factors that complicate this situation. Plants co-ordinate their root and shoot growth by signaling with plant hormones produced in different organs. An overly restricted root system can signal via the production of hormones to the top of the plant and control shoot growth and other develop-mental processes. Shoots can also signal to roots via the plant hormone auxin produced in the top of the plant and trans-ported down to the roots. Thus, the size, health and stress
A root’s directional growth responds to gravity and physical barriers.
“in hydroponic, seedling and ornamental plant and
fruit crop production, milder root restriction practices are used for certain plants
to help increase produce quality and productivity.”
of the roots affect the shoots of the plant, and vice versa. This means even in hydroponics, an overly restricted root zone will restrict the above ground plant growth due to this root/shoot co-ordination and communication even if water, oxygen and nutrients are optimal and continually supplied.
Advantages of Root RestrictionThe positive effects of root restriction for container-grown plants have long been known, with the art of bonsai being the most extreme example. When roots are severely restricted within the growing container for long periods of time with limited nutrients and root pruning practices, the entire plant becomes stunted and dwarfed. However, the balance must be maintained between keeping plant growth highly restricted and compact but at the same time healthy and alive. In hydroponic, seedling and ornamental plant and fruit crop production, milder root restriction practices are used for certain plants to help increase produce quality and productivity. Vegetable seedlings grown with some root restriction usually result in a shorter, hardier transplants that are better able to survive the stress of the planting out and establishment process. Root restriction in fruiting crops such as apples and
grape vines has been found to restrict vegetative growth while improving the quality of the fruit in terms of soluble sugars and other parameters. There is evidence with some hydroponic crops that root restriction in the seedling stage
helps hold back excessive vegetative growth in the young plant, leading to earlier flowering, more compact plants and an advantageous vegetative vs. reproductive balance. Root restriction in these cases may take the form of careful selection of the size of the seedling rooting container, or, as is more common, holding the seedlings for longer in their propagation cubes or containers so that root restriction begins to occur before planting out. Other studies have shown that root restriction can improve
the nutritional value of hydroponically grown vegetables.
This may be via a stress response similar to when crops are grown under deficient irrigation or with a high EC, or most likely a combination of internal plant processes triggered by compounds produced by the restricted root system. One study found that edible chrysanthemum, pak-choi, endive and lettuce hydroponically cul-tured in a deep flow system in restricted root zone tubes resulted in plants with an increased percentage of dry matter, C:N ratio, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and anthocyanin contents. However, increasing root restriction also retarded growth, so a compromise restricted rooting volume needed to be established, one that pro-duced sufficient foliage growth, but also an improvement in nutritional value. The optimized rooting volume, however, varied for each different species. Thus, it is difficult to make generalized recommendations for the ideal root volume for hydroponic systems.
Root competitionIn many hydroponic systems, individual plants may be grown in their own separate container or slab of substrate and some plants are often grown side by side allowing roots from sepa-rate plants to intermingle. Some studies have found that plants produce more root mass when sharing rooting space with a neighbor, as compared to plants growing alone. It is thought that this allows plants to enhance their competitive ability for nutrients, but that root overgrowth may occur in this situation
at the expense of reproductive growth. These findings may be species specific; it appears that the roots of some plant species can sense the roots of neighboring plants and respond to them accordingly. Further studies in this area may eventually help us determine how plants grown side by side may be influencing the growth of each other in hydroponic systems.
in conclusionOur objective as hydroponic growers is to provide sufficient root volume for each species so that roots are not overly restricted, yet at the same time make soilless systems efficient and manage-able by not providing very large and unnecessary root contain-ment zones. Since root restriction can at times have advantages, with hydroponics we have the tools and technology to manage the root system volume precisely.
Severe root restriction in
hydroponics can reduce potential
growth and yields.
“in many hydroponic systems, individual plants may be grown in their own separate container or slab
of substrate and some plants are often grown side by side
allowing roots from separate plants to intermingle.”
Correcting chlorosis in plants is relatively simple, provided you can pinpoint the problem. There are four different reasons you plants might not be getting enough iron. Read on to discover them.
Iron chlorosis affects many kinds of plants and can be frustrating for a gardener. An iron deficiency in plants causes unsightly yellow leaves and eventually death. So, it is important to correct iron chlorosis in plants. Let’s look at what iron does for plants and how to fix systemic chlorosis in plants.
What Iron Does for PlantsIron is a nutrient that all plants need to function. Many of the vital functions of the plant, like enzyme and chlorophyll production, nitrogen fixing and development and metabolism are all dependent on iron. Without iron, the plant simply cannot function as well as it should.
For Plants:
What does Iron do for Plants?Symptoms of Iron Deficiency in PlantsThe most obvious symptom of iron deficiency in plants is commonly called leaf chlorosis. This is where the leaves of the plant turn yellow, but the veins of the leaves stay green. Typically, leaf chlorosis will start at the tips of new growth in the plant and will eventually work its way to older leaves on the plant as the deficiency gets worse. Other signs can include poor growth and leaf loss, but these symptoms will always be coupled with the leaf chlorosis.
by Heather Rhoades
“ thE MoSt obvIoUS SYMptoM oF IRoN dEFICIENCY IN plANtS IS CoMMoNlY CAllEd lEAF ChloRoSIS. thIS IS WhERE thE lEAvES oF thE plANt tURN YElloW, bUt thE vEINS oF thE lEAvES StAY gREEN.”
146 Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
GREEN THUMB GARDENING
Fixing Iron Chlorosis in PlantsRarely is an iron deficiency in plants caused by a lack of iron in the soil. Iron is typically abundant in the soil, but a variety of soil conditions can limit how well a plant can get to the iron in the soil. Iron chlorosis in plants is normally caused by one of four reasons. They are:
Fixing Soil pH that is too HighHave your soil tested at your local extension service. If the soil pH is above 7, the soil pH is restricting the ability of the plant to get iron from the soil and a remedy will be required. Start by asking a retail store for advice.
Correcting soil that has too much clayClay soil lacks organic material. The lack of organic material is actually the reason that a plant cannot get iron from clay soil. There are trace nutrients in organic material that the plant needs in order to take the iron into its roots. If clay soil is causing iron chlorosis, correcting an iron deficiency in plants means working in organic material like peat moss and compost into the soil.
Improving Compacted or Overly Wet Soil
If your soil is compacted or too wet, the roots do not have enough air
to properly take up enough iron for the plant. If the soil is too wet,
you will need to improve the drainage of the soil. If the soil is compacted, oftentimes it can be difficult to reverse this so other methods of getting iron to the plant are usually employed.
If you are unable to correct the drainage or reverse compaction, you
can use a chelated iron as either a foliar spray or a soil supplement. This will further
increase the iron content available to the plant and counter the weakened ability of the plant to
take up iron through its roots.
Reducing Phosphorus in the SoilToo much phosphorus can block the uptake of iron by the plant and cause leaf chlorosis. Typically, this condition is caused by using a fertilizer that is too
high in phosphorus. Use a fertilizer that is lower in phosphorus (the middle number) to help bring the soil back in balance.
For Plants:
“ thE lACk oF oRgANIC MAtERIAl IS ACtUAllY thE REASoN thAt A plANt CANNot gEt IRoN FRoM ClAY SoIl.”
147Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
Genetic Modification of Flavor and Aroma in Fruits and Flowers:
Is the Future GMO?
Consumers have long complained about the lack
of flavor in genetically modified foods. however, scientists are now
trying to use those same manipulation techniques to bring that flavor back.
by David Kessler AD
148 Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
Genetic Modification of Flavor and Aroma in Fruits and Flowers:
Scientists are currently looking at manipulating flavor and aroma (the two are inextricably linked) by means of genetic engineering. This work may lead to better tasting and more nutritious produce and increased pest resistance in plants. It may even have a profound impact on the entire com-mercial agricultural industry.Trying to alter or improve the
flavor and aroma of fruits, veg-etables and flowers has long been the realm of plant breeders. To begin a breeding program, one first must collect a diverse population of genetic plant material, then care-fully select stud plants and make crosses with the singular goal of improving the flavor or aroma of a given fruit, flower or vegetable.This type of breeding is called selec-
tive breeding. Selective breeding, or artificial selection, is the intentional breeding of a plant with desirable traits in an attempt to produce offspring with similar desirable characteristics or
with improved traits. There are several obstacles to this approach. It consumes massive amounts of space and time to grow up a speculative cross and deter-mine if it has been successful at achiev-ing one’s goals. Also, plants only breed with other plants of the same familial order, making the resulting possibilities
limited, and because we do not yet fully understand the mechanisms that are responsible for flavor and aroma, we have been stumbling around in the proverbial dark.Before scientists can modify flavor,
first they must understand the complex matter of what flavor is. AD
“Human perception of ‘flavor’ involves integration of a massive amount of quantitative information from multiple sensory systems… Chemically, flavor is the total of a large set of primary and secondary metabolites that are measured by the taste and olfactory systems (Klee, 2010).” Taste is the amalgamation of all of the sensory data from the five classes of taste receptors in the
mouth: sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami (savory). Quantifying flavor is a challenge by itself, but as anyone who has ever had a cold will tell you, flavor is inextricably linked to the sense of smell. As mammals, humans rely greatly on the combination of senses (i.e., taste and smell) to form sensory experiences because our senses are not as developed as those of other mammals. Humans have 10
square centimeters of olfactory epi-thelium compared to the 169 square centimeters of olfactory epithelium in a German shepherd (which is why they are the preferred drug sniffing dog breed).
The flavor and aroma we experience from a given fruit is determined by complex mixtures of often hundreds of volatile compounds. A strawberry has over 300 compounds that contrib-ute on multiple levels to make up the characteristic flavor we associate with a ripe strawberry (Honkanen & Hirvi, 1990). A tomato has more than 400 aromatic volatiles that constitute its aroma and flavor, but only 15 to 20 in sufficient enough quantity to impact flavor. The volatiles are composed of the metabolites of several chemical groups that include acids, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols, esters, sulfur com-pounds, furans, phenols, terpenes, epoxides and lactones. Although the individual concentration of these substances vary from tissue sample to tissue sample, their concentration makes up 10 to 100 ppm of a fruit’s fresh weight.The compounds responsible for flavor
are generally formed during the ripen-ing stage of flower and fruit develop-ment when the metabolism of the plant changes and catabolism of high-molec-ular weight molecules such as proteins, polysaccharides and lipids degrade and are converted into volatile metabolites (Asaphaharoni & Efraimlewinsohn). Catabolism can be thought of as destructive metabolism, or the break-down of complex molecules in living organisms to form simpler ones, along
“the compounds responsible for flavor are generally formed during the ripening
stage of flower and fruit development when the metabolism of the plant changes
and catabolism of high-molecular weight molecules such as proteins,
polysaccharides and lipids degrade and are converted into volatile metabolites.”
with the release of energy. It is during this stage of ripening that flushing a plant’s growing medium (depriving the plant of nutrition) and forcing it to catabolize its stored metabolites can most impact the final flavor.Prior investigations of fruit flavors
focused on identifying compounds pres-ent in various fruit species (Honkanen & Hirvi, 1990). Along with the classifi-cation of flavor compounds, research-ers often identified the substances that were responsible for the unique scent we attribute to a particular fruit (methoxyfuraneol for strawberries and isoamylacetate for bananas). Current research on fruit flavor is focused on the genes that directly influence fruit flavor formation. Future success at manipulating fruit flavor hinges on the research being carried out today—gathering information about the genes and metabolic pathways that generate fruit flavors. Other avenues of research include experiments that use genes iso-lated from plants other than fruits, such as the leaves and glandular trichomes of various herbs to modify flavor.Bio-engineering fruit flavor may
seem like a waste of time, but there is a growing consensus among consum-ers that in recent decades the overall flavor quality of produce has declined.
“bio-engineering fruit flavor may seem like a waste of time, but there is a
growing consensus among consumers that in recent decades the overall flavor
shelf life and yield. This focus on fiscally beneficial traits has
resulted in less expensive, year-round produce that frankly does
not taste good. Genetically modifying flavor is not restricted to introducing “new flavors or enhancing existing ones but also includes the removal of undesir-able metabolites that generate ‘off-fla-vors.’ Since most of the molecules that compose the flavor profiles of fruit may exhibit antifungal or antibacterial bioac-tivity, it is conceivable that manipulation of fruit flavor will not only influence the flavor profile of fruit but will also confer resistance to pests and pathogens.” (Asaphaharoni & Efraimlewinsohn)
The first genetically modified tomato called the Flavr-Savr (also known as CGN-89564-2) was approved for com-mercial production in 1994. Using genetic engineering, the naturally pro-duced enzyme that generates an “off” flavor and mushy texture was turned off. The result was a vine-ripened tomato that could be shipped with min-imal bruising and spoilage. Due to poor flavor and mounting costs, the crop was pulled from production in 1997.The prevalent method currently
employed to manipulate flavor is called transgenic genetic engineer-ing. The transgenic approach refers to the modification of an organism by transferring a gene or genetic material from one organism to another. A gene is a segment of DNA that codes for the production of a protein, and those proteins determine particular traits.
For example, consider the gene for flower color. The arrangement of the nucleic acid compounds on a chro-mosome in one plant tells the flower cells to produce certain proteins that make the flower blue. On another plant, the nucleic acid compounds are arranged differently, instructing the plant to make pink. Some genes control regions of a chromosome. These regions are like a light switch or a thermostat. They turn the gene on or off, or regulate the amount of protein produced. While cells carry identical DNA codes, differ-ent cells have different functions. For example, the gene that makes a flower pink is not needed in the root, so it is turned off in the root cells and turned on in the cells of the flower. (Spears, Klaenhammer, & Petters)An advantage of transgenic genetic
engineering is that precise alterations can be engineered into cultivars that are already proven commercially. Two of the most common genetically
modified crops in production are cotton and corn that have been modified with the addition of a gene from the bacteria Bacillus thuringi-ensis. The resultant crops are toxic to caterpillars but safe for humans. A major obstacle of utilizing the transgenic approach is that the pres-ent regulatory environment makes it very expensive to gain approval for genetically modified organisms. Additionally, even if approval is obtained for a genetically modified crop, there is a growing social move-ment that vehemently opposes geneti-cally modified produce.We recommend if you want a great
“old-time” tasting tomato, go visit your local farmers market once the tomatoes hit the stand or you can pick up some organic heirloom seeds and grow them yourself! The day might be coming; however, for better or worse, when commercial green-houses will be packed with high yielding, disease-resistant flavorful
“while cells carry identical dna codes, different cells have different functions.”
“two of the most common genetically modified crops in production are cotton
and corn that have been modified with the addition of a gene from the bacteria bacillus thuringiensis. the resultant crops are toxic
to caterpillars but safe for humans.”
genetically engineered tomatoes; if you choose to eat them that will be up to you. To stay apprised of Farm Bill legislation in your state, get involved with a local advocacy group, and always try your best to know your food.
David Kessler heads research and development at Atlantis Hydroponics and writes for their popular blog. David has over two decades of experience and multiple degrees from the State University of New York. He’s also an accredited judge for the American Orchid Society and travels the world judging orchid events. Follow his blog at atlantis-hydroponics.wordpress.com
What are your thoughts on the future of genetically modified crops? Write to [email protected] and let us know what you think.
kItChEN CoMpoStINg doESN’t REqUIRE MUCh. SIMplY FINd thREE bUCkEtS ANd thREE lIdS, ANd thEN FolloW thESE SIMplE INStRUCtIoNS to EASIlY tURN kItChEN WAStE INto FREE FERtIlIzER FoR YoUR gARdEN.
Have you ever noticed how much food we throw away? With all of that valuable nutrition going into the trash, composting kitchen waste into free fertilizer is a great option. Here is a simple plan for kitchen composting so you can have healthier plants and a smaller carbon footprint.This particular method
involves three 5-gal. buckets, screw-on lids and a combina-tion of aerobic and anaero-bic styles. The end result is not just compost, but also compost tea.Try to score some free 5-gal.
buckets, or get them cheap at the hardware store. Also at the hardware store you can find fancy screw-on lids. The lid’s frame snaps onto the bucket, and the lid can
then be sealed and easily unscrewed for removal. If you have ever worked in a restaurant, you know the woes of opening buckets the old way. These new screw-on lids are so much easier.You will need a total of
three buckets, each with a screw-on lid. You will also need a bag of high-quality organic potting soil. Look for any soil that mentions the following: mycorrhi-zae, microbes, beneficial fungi, bacteria, compost or forest humus. Such soils will contain micro-organisms that convert food waste into plant food.With your first bucket,
simply snap on the lid. Every time you have some compostable food waste such as bread or veggies
158 Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
TIPS AND TRICKS
(avoid meat, dairy, oils and greasy foods), add it to the bucket with a scoop of organic potting soil. Seal it up tight with the lid. You may notice a foul odor when you open the bucket. This is to be expected, so keep the lid closed unless you are adding food waste. After closing the lid, give the bucket a good shake. Now you are building mus-cles and making compost!Once bucket one is filled
with scraps and soil, you need the additional two buckets. Drill about a dozen 3/8 in. holes in the bottom of bucket two. The final bucket needs about four holes drilled in the lid. Stack those two buckets with the holes touching and set them in a safe place outside. Now you can empty bucket one (kitchen scraps) into bucket two (holes in the bottom). As the waste breaks down, it will release liquids into bucket three (holes in the lid). These liquids are rich with nutrients and micro-organisms that are great for your outdoor gardens.Since this compost tea is
not actively aerated, it can contain anaerobic bacteria
in large quantities. For this reason, the tea is best suited to in-ground plantings. Never use this anaerobic compost tea on your indoor plants. It might work out fine, but the worst-case scenario would be nutrient imbalance and root rot. In an outdoor garden, these anaerobic bacteria func-tion well with other ground organisms without harm-ing your plants. I use this compost tea in my outdoor
“look for any soil that mentions the following: mycorrhizae, microbes, beneficial fungi, bacteria, compost or forest humus. such soils will contain micro-organisms that convert food waste into plant food.”
Turning kitchen waste into compost with just a few steps. Photos submitted.
flower beds and the results are visible after one day. My calla lilies grow faster and produce more blooms when I soak the roots with this stinky stuff.If you can occasionally add
water and stir up the top bucket, the compost will break down much faster. For the fastest results, chop up your kitchen waste as you scrap it. Each day, stir bucket two with a garden trowel
or just give it a good shake. With daily agitation, your compost will be ready in two weeks.Once the contents of
bucket two look like dark soil, and not food scraps, the compost and tea are ready to be added to your garden. By this point, the bucket in the kitchen is probably full again, so you are ready for another cycle. Scrap, com-post, repeat.
159Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
Boron… it’s some chemical from the periodic table that plants need, but we don’t really need to know much about
it, right? Wrong. Author William DeBoer explains more about this little known but very important micronutrient.
Really, how exciting is an element like boron? Yeah, it’s some chemical from the periodic table that plants need, but you might be thinking, “I only need to know the N-P-K plus a few others, right?” You could be asking yourself, “why talk about boron when there are more than a dozen other required and even more recognized beneficial ele-ments and compounds?” Simply put, boron is that little known element that is often masked in obscurity. Whether you fall victim to this view point or not, strap in because we are going to navigate through the primary role boron has on plants and just maybe strengthen your expertise on this little-known, but very important, micronutrient.
Uptake and MovementA form of boron that is read-ily available and water solu-ble is boric acid. This weak acid is added to most com-mercially made fertilizers or can be individually supple-mented via foliar application. The primary mode of uptake occurs via transporters in the root cells. Once inside the root cells, boron will move with the transpiration stream, loading first into the active growing sites of the stem and leaves. For foliar application, the movement of boron is fixed (immo-bile) within the leaf itself. Therefore, foliar application for most plants will only have a localized (leaf) effect. For some members of the rose family, boron can be trans-ported down the phloem, attached to the sugar alcohol complex and utilized by the stem and roots.
For soMe members of the rose family, boron
can be transported down the phloem, attached to the sugar
alcohol complex and utilized by the stem and roots.”
Fortifying the Cell WallBoron, like calcium or the beneficial element silicon, has an important structural role in the development and growth of most plants. In fact, 90% of total boron content within the plant is located in the cell walls. Boron helps with the cross-linking of the complex carbohydrates (polysaccha-rides) that comprise the cell wall. Imagine several metal fences in close proximity to one another. Among its structural roles, boron helps link these fences together further promoting the rigid-ity and structural support for each cell, culminating the plant’s overall strength. While boron has several other additional roles, cell wall fortification is the most visible function; a deficiency can lead to structural issues.
Problems of Toxicity and DeficiencyBoron accumulates within the leaf margin when immo-bile (species specific); there-fore, excess accumulation will cause discoloration and subsequent death of this area of the leaf. Look for brown-ing or blackening of the leaf tip and margin as clear diagnostic signs of boron toxicity. In plants where boron is mobile, death of young shoots and leaves are likely signs of boron toxicity. Both boron deficiency and toxicity will reduce or cease plant growth causing stunt-ing. The root response to an absence of boron, especially in hydroponics, can be fast. Inhibition of root growth can occur within three hours when boron is totally removed from the nutrient
162 Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
bREAkINg boREdoM WIth boRoN
solution and completely stopped after 24 hours. The good news is rectifying the situation by adding boron to the root zone is equally quick, occurring within 12 hours of application. Since boron is affected by leach-ing, avoid overwatering and flushing out boron, or con-sider foliar supplementation if necessary. Like several nutrients, the
optimal range for boron separating deficiency from toxicity is relatively small. Boron, at concentrations below 0.2 ppm, is likely to result in signs of deficiencies just as concentrations above 2 ppm can result in symp-
toms of toxicity. Boron toxic-ity will greatly impact root development as it has been shown to stop cellular divi-sion of the root meristem, which can subsequently cause a myriad of problems downstream. As one group of authors best described it, “boric acid toxicity is more difficult to manage than boric acid deficiency, which can be avoided by fertiliza-tion.” Conceptually this makes sense as there is prob-ably more leeway for correct-ing the boron concentration when it is needed versus when it is in excess and the damage has irreversibly
While Boronhas several other additional roles, cell wall fortification is the most visible function; a deficiency can
lead to structural issues.”
occurred. Therefore, a little amount goes a long way, but careful monitor-ing is needed to ensure levels do not fall below a critical threshold. One final word of caution: the above-mentioned guidelines will not match all plants’ needs. What is toxic for one plant will be the optimal require-ment for another, so do your own homework prior to supplementation above the recommended dose. Commercially prepared fertilizers will provide the necessary boron require-ment for the vast majority of plants.
Benefits of supplementationBesides its benefits to an established plant, boron may also aid in the health of plant cuttings. Sunflower cuttings have shown a posi-tive response to the addition of boron. In this study, 0.1 mM boric acid or 1.1 ppm boron caused the highest amount of adventitious roots (formation of roots from a non-traditional area such as the stem, leaves, etc.) per cutting relative to the con-trol group. While this study did not concretely state the direct role boron may have on adventitious root
formation, it was speculated that it may play a role in pro-motion of endogenous (inter-nal) auxin production. In addition, since one of boron’s roles is structural enhance-ment, foliar supplementation of boron may help reduce leaf drop in cuttings. I base this on personal experience but cannot conclude that the results will be uniform across all plants. For calculations, remember
boron constitutes only 17.7% of the weight of boric acid, so if you want 0.5 ppm boron, you will need to add 9.87 oz. per 0.26 gal. of boric acid. Always start small, and slowly work your way up until the deficiency has been rectified and normal growth resumes. In addition, make sure you have your water source tested prior to use. Boron levels in the water should not exceed 1 ppm for general hydro-ponic use.
in ConclusionBoron, while not often discussed with the big boys (N-P-K), is an integral struc-tural micronutrient whose role within plants is still being investigated today. Unfortunately, the need of boron and the sensitivity to it is often quite variable within the plant commu-nity. Some plants, such as the tomato, flourish with a constant supply and will elicit a quick response with
its removal, while other plants, such as peas, are more tolerant and have a delayed response. In hydroponics, it is prudent to maintain optimal levels of boron as the plant’s response and subsequent decline in growth is often quick. Remember, the line between deficiency and toxicity for most plants is minute, so don’t overdo it! While not glamorous, now
you have a better appre-ciation for this lesser-known micronutrient, boron. Sources:Blevins, D.G., and K. M.
Lukaszewski. 1998. Boron in Plant Structure and Function. Annual Review Plant Physiology and Plant Molecular Biology. 49: 481-500.
Aquea, f., Federici, F., Moscoso, C., Vega, A., Jullian, P., Haseloff, J., and P. Arce-Johnson. 2012. A Molecular Framework for the Inhibition of Arabidopsis Root Growth in Response to Boron Toxicity. Plant Cell and Environment. 35: 719-734.
Brown, P. H., and H. Hu. 1998. Boron Mobility and Consequent Management in Different Crops. Better Crops, Volume 82, #2.
J. B. Jones, Jr. 2005. Hydroponics: A Practical Guide for the Soilless Grower. CRC Press, 2nd Edition.
Unknown author. 2002. Boron as a Plant Nutrient. A&L
Canada Laboratories Fact Sheet # 90.
Waqar Ahmad, Munir H. Zia, Sukhdev S. Malhi, Abid Niaz and Saifullah. 2012. Boron Deficiency in Soils and Crops: A Review, Crop Plant, Dr Aakash Goyal (Ed.) Available fromintechopen.com/books/crop-plant/boron-deficiency-in-soils-and-crops-a-review
Josten, P., and U. Kutschera. 1998. The Micronutrient Boron Causes the Development of Adventitious Roots in Sunflower Cuttings. Annals of Botany. 84:337-342.
look For BroWning or blackening of the leaf tip and margin as clear diagnostic signs of boron toxicity.”
Copper is one of the essential micronutrients, or trace miner-als, that plants need for growth. As with any nutrient, plants can absorb and use only certain forms of copper. For example, copper metal is useless to plants, but once dissolved in acidic conditions, copper enters plants very easily. Under high pH conditions (alkaline) copper becomes unavailable to plants.
Copper has specific duties in the plant. In onions, copper is the main ingredient needed to give yellow onions the brown papery skin desired by consumers. Plants have several copper- containing enzymes that play an important role in photosynthesis, respiration and the formation of lignin in woody plants. Insufficient levels of copper (copper deficiency) can
lead to symptoms of reduced starch formation, reduced nitrogen fixation and nodulation in legumes, delayed flowering and maturity and pollen sterility. In broadleaf plants the upper portion of the plants wilt, the growing
Under the organic food laws,
copper may not be added as a
plant nutrient unless there
is a documented soil or tissue
deficiency. The amount of copper
that can be in a product is
restricted by most states.”
CoppER
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point may die and the top leaves turn a distinctive bluish-green color.Some plants require more copper than others. Beet,
onion, lettuce, spinach, sunflower and tomato have relatively high copper requirements compared to other crops. It is interesting to note that archaeologists have discovered that metal-tolerant plants helped ancient civilizations identify ore bodies and mining and smelting
sites. For example, the African copper flower is found only in soils rich in copper and helped with the dis-
covery of mines and smelting areas in 14th century Zaire. Other examples of copper-tolerant plants
include the Vernal Sandwort and the Sea Thrift from Europe, and Elsholtzia haichow-
ensis (no English common name) from China. As a rule, beans, broccoli, cab-
bage, cucumber, mint, pea and potato do not require extra copper supple-mentation. High levels of copper can be toxic to plants. The symptoms of copper toxicity are reduced seed germination, low shoot vigor, and lower iron availability.
Disease FighterCopper has very powerful anti-
microbial properties. For example, a stainless steel sink will harbor germs for
two weeks while a copper sink will be germ-free in two hours. This was confirmed by a
recent EPA study and it is why most hospi-tal door knobs, handrails and fixtures
are made of copper or plated with brass (a copper alloy). For over a
hundred years, copper sulfate has been used in com-
mercial agriculture as a foliar fungicide for
powdery mildew dis-ease control and
copper plating was a technol-ogy that began in the mid-1600s. One
common use for copper plating, widespread in the 1700s, was the sheath-ing of ship hulls. Copper sheathing was used to protect
Similarly, copper com-pounds were the principal ingredient in boat anti-fouling paints, although newer chemistries are being developed for this purpose.
poisoning (like lead or mercury) are given EDTA to bind to the metal and physically filter it out. Obviously, the doctors do not want the EDTA to let go of the heavy metal easily. Furthermore, EDTA has a separation anxiety in that it will not give up its metal unless there is another one to trade. So, people treated with EDTA for heavy metal poisoning often get calcium deficiency. In plants the same is true. For example, plants given iron EDTA will often develop manga-nese deficiency, so in effect you are trading one deficiency for another.Another type of chelate on the market is the amino acid
chelates. These products use amino acids (the building blocks of protein) as a shell. This shell is held onto the copper with citric acid as a binder. These products are generally certified as organic fertilizers. In California, the fertilizer laws state that citric acid is the chelating agent—not the amino acid. So, you will not see labels for amino acid chelated copper in California. Amino acid (or citric acid) chelates are a smaller molecule than EDTA so they penetrate the leaf easier and absorption time is greatly reduced. Also, plants recognize the amino acid as a building block and readily take it in. Once inside the plant, the amino acid shell is stripped off and used, as is the copper. Conversely, EDTA is synthetic so only the copper is used by the plant. The good thing about chelated copper fertilizers is that they can be used on the plant foliage, the soil or in nutrient solutions; however, there are some restrictions.
HydroponicsOrganic matter (humus) binds to copper more tightly than it does with any other micronutrient. This tie-up of copper is a common cause for copper deficiency in soil systems. If the copper level in your solution is on the high side, than knowl-edge of this property may affect your choice of substrate. Choosing an organic soil over a sand substrate can mitigate the effect of high copper in your solution. Increasing the pH level increases the amount of copper held by organic matter or clay (which reduces the availability of copper to the plants). If you are growing plants on a soil substrate with a pH above 7.5, then you need to check periodically for copper deficiency symptoms in your plants. Copper metal is very malleable and is not as susceptible to
corrosion like other metals, which is why it is still used today for pipes. In addition, copper has antibacterial properties that help to ward off micro-organisms like those that cause Legionnaire’s disease. Unlike plastic, copper does not give off fumes, melt or burn. However, the copper content in a closed hydroponic system should be minimized to prevent copper accumulation in the nutrient solution and in the plants. If the levels of copper are high in your source water, replace the copper pipes with high pressure PVC piping.
AquaponicsCopper is a soft metal that readily corrodes or ionizes, especially in acidic environments like aquaponics. Copper is considered to be a heavy metal and fish readily accumulate copper in their flesh. Aquaponic systems are recirculating by design, which compounds the possibility of exposure and bioaccumulation of copper in both fish and humans. Copper is toxic to fish at low levels and crustaceans at miniscule levels. Do not use copper heat exchangers in solar water heaters and minimize the use of copper pipes in the system. Most systems today use plastic PVC pipe almost exclusively.
AeroponicsIn aeroponic systems where the nutrient solution is periodi-cally misted onto roots suspended in the air, copper is added to the nutrient solution. Since the roots are not immersed in the solution it is unlikely that the plants will absorb enough copper to be phytotoxic. In this system is it not so impera-tive that copper piping or plumbing be eliminated from the system.
In ConclusionCopper is not only an essential plant nutrient, it’s also a tool that can be very beneficial to your indoor growing operation. Copper can be a big problem when not used in the proper environment or in the right form. But now that you know the hazards and the benefits of copper products, you can more confidently use them to keep your operation running smoothly and efficiently.
Hand-pollinating indoor cucumbers and strawberries
by kyle l. ladenburger
hobby growers can probably get by with hand-pollinating the majority of their plants, provided they know how to go about it. the following is a guide to
understanding how to pollinate the flowers of two popular indoor-grown vegetables: cucumbers and strawberries. it begins with a simple anatomy lesson.
One large factor contributing to the popularity of indoor gardening is the fact that the grower can have nearly complete control over the environ-ment. All of the unpredictability that is inherent with growing outdoors and dealing with Mother Nature can be set aside. Indoor gardeners need not worry about the risks of prolonged drought or torrential flooding. They can rest easy knowing that their crops are safe from the threat of damaging winds and harmful pest infestations. And, one will never hear an indoor gardener say, “I’m prayin’ for rain.” However, with complete control also comes complete responsibility. Indoor gardeners must create from
within their means an environment
that is ideal for the specific plant being grown. With care and diligence, and maybe some research as well, the grower needs to create a hospitable atmosphere for his or her plants by choosing the correct amount and style of lighting used, controlling the levels of humidity and airflow, keep-ing a close eye on the temperature in the growing area and supplying water and elemental nutrients properly. As indoor gardeners, we essentially take on the role of Mother Nature. We are the setting and the rising sun. We are the clouds that bring the much-needed rain. We control the winds that cool, and we supply the heat that encour-ages strong growth. At times we even
have to be the bee that spreads the pollen from flower to flower.Large-scale indoor grow-
ers of flowering crops may deal with several acres of plants at any given time. In these types of operations it would be hard for the workers to hand-pollinate each flower. It would simply take too many people or too much time. So what many commercial indoor growers do is buy or rent pollinators (usually hon-eybees or bumblebees) and let them loose in the growing area for a given amount of time. But for the hobby grower, who is growing on a much smaller scale—perhaps a few plants instead of a few acres—I would recom-mend hand-pollinating the plants that are not self-fertilizing (self-pollinat-ing) to ensure the best quality fruit production possible. The following is a guide to understanding the anatomy of, and how to pollinate, the flowers of two popular indoor grown vegetables: cucumbers and strawberries.
cucumbersThe modern cucumber plant (Cucumis sativus) is usually monoe-cious, meaning both the male flowers and female flowers can be found sep-arately on the same plant. The male flowers grow in small clusters and can be identified by their smooth, slen-der stems. Containing usually three stamens (pollen producers), male flowers open about a week before female flowers and outnumber their female counterparts on average 10 to one. Female flowers, on the other hand, grow singularly and have a large base or stem that resembles a baby cucumber.
indoor gardeners must create from
within their means an environment that is
ideal for the specific plant being grown.”
This is the ovary. The ovary is the part of the female flower anatomy that will become the fruit that houses the seeds. Inside the female flower is where we find the pistil, which is made up of the stigma (pollen receiv-ers) and the style, a tube-like struc-ture that leads to the ovary. For the female flower to be success-
fully pollinated, pollen must be trans-ferred from the stamens of the male flower to the stigma of the female flower. In order to do this properly, one will need a tool. I’ve found that a small paint or make-up brush with soft bristles works well, but some growers use electric toothbrushes, also with soft bristles, to move the pollen. To pol-linate the cucumber flower start first at a male flower. Take the tool of your choice and gently brush the tip of the stamen, which is called the anther. This is the pollen bearing part of the flower
that bees bump and vibrate, shaking the pollen onto their bodies. Brush the anthers a few times (you may be able to see the yellow pollen collecting if you use a white bristled brush), and then move to a female flower next. Take the part of the brush that contains the pollen and rub it gently upon the very center of the female flower. This is where the stigma resides and this is where the pollen is initially received. As you pollinate the flowers, be sure to go from male to female and back to male again before going to another female. A successfully pollinated female flower will grow into a cucum-ber. If it is not pollinated properly, the fruit will not form and instead will slowly wither and die off.
strawberriesThe common garden strawberry plant (Fragaria ananassa) is self-fertilizing (self-pollinating), but only to a certain extent. The flowers of most strawberry plants are referred to as androgynous or hermaph-roditic, meaning the flower contains both the male and female reproductive parts. However, unlike the tomato flower where both organs of reproduction are enclosed together in close proximity, the male and female parts on the strawberry flower are fractions of an inch apart. Outdoors, this fraction of an inch is handled and taken care of by pollinating insects and the wind. But indoors, this fraction of an inch can become more like a mile. The female part (pistil) of the strawberry flower is located in the direct center of the flower. It is yellow and circular, about the size of a pencil eraser, and will become the fruit of the plant. This part of the flower can be identified by the many small stigma (pollen receptors) covering it. The male part (stamen) of the flower encircles the female and has anthers (pollen producers) that stand above the stigma. When hand-pollinating, the goal is to move the pollen from the anthers to the stigma, gently spreading it as evenly as possible over the whole surface of said stigma. Do this using a soft brush or the tool of your choice.
If the pollen is spread evenly over the stigma, the result will be a fruit that is more uniformly shaped. An improp-erly pollinated strawberry flower will produce mis-shapen fruits that may still have great flavor, but are less appealing to the eye and usually much smaller than those from a successful pollina-tion. This may be an important factor if the grower plans to give away or sell any of the harvest.
A Final noteWhen hand-pollinating, it is best to do so when the flower is completely open because this is when pollen production will be at the highest levels. This is when the stigma of the female flower is most receptive. I prefer using a small soft-bristled paintbrush over something like a Q-tip. The brush seems to pick up and dis-tribute the pollen quite well. I have never used an electric toothbrush or device simi-lar to one, but I imagine that if used with care, they would work just fine.
hANd-pollINAtINg
the flowers of most strawberry plants are referred to as
androgynous or hermaphroditic, meaning the flower contains both
the male and female reproductive parts.”
If you’ve experienced success pollinating cucumbers and strawberries using the methods described above, or if you have your own suggestions, please get in touch with [email protected] to share your experiences.
178 Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
179Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
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2WiNa Grow Pack from Green PlanetGreen Planet nutrients are amongst the fi nest in the world. The Grow Kit contains many es-sential products for the primarily organic grower, including 16-oz. samples of the award-winning base nutrient Medi-One, Massive (the company’s fl agship bloom enhancer), Finisher and Liquid W-8. The kit also includes a full feed program for optimal growth.
1WiNa Package of Green Pads and Green Pad Jr.s Green Pad CO2 generator products are based on a natural chemical formula of carbons and acids that react to humidity or moisture to release carbon dioxide on demand. Since Green Pads only react to humidity, you can use them when you are ready to supplement your garden with benefi cial CO2; simply hang, spray and walk away to start the release of CO2 from your Green Pads.
3WiNa StealthrO 100 from Hydrologic Purifi cation SystemsThe StealthRO 100 comes complete with a 1:1 waste ratio fl ow restrictor and algae block fi lter housing sleeves. It is upgraded with a KDF 85 carbon fi lter and the new low pressure/cold water/high fl ow membrane for double the fl ow rate. This fully loaded system has everything you need to produce pure water for your plants immediately.
4WiNa Case of Spider Mite Knock Out from doktordoomThis insecticide plant spray kills and repels insects on contact. It’s safe to use up to one day be-fore harvest on fruits, vegetables, herbs and other edible crops. It contains no artifi cial fragrances, perfumes, attars or oils, which makes it an ideal choice for peo-ple with sensitivities. Also use it on aphids, whitefl ies, Japanese beetles, stink bugs, leafhoppers and cabbage beetles.
This contest cycle runs until August 15, 2013. Prizes might not be exactly as shown.
Have you ever wondered about the origins
of the word “hydroponics” or what the differences between hydroponics and soilless
media are? Well, those questions and more are answered as soon as you open up William Texier’s new highly anticipated book, Hydroponics for Everybody: All About Home Horticulture.William is a gardener who likes to keep it simple. In fact,
that’s his first piece of advice in his book. In the first chapter, “The Different Hydroponics Systems,” he describes how many hydroponic failures derive from losing sight of this fundamental principle of keeping it simple. With many years in the industry
behind him, William is able to include a
historical perspective of hydro and highlight how far it’s come in the last 30 years. Following the first chapter that simplifies the system set-up are others that cover nutrients (you definitely need those!), substrates (also essential) and additives (should be considered by those who demand higher yields).
Hydroponics for Everybody is easy to navigate, and over 100 computer-generated illustrations and photographs add to the reading experience. This reference guide also has global appeal, as it is available in seven languages and even includes a handy measurement conversion chart. Of particular interest is the section called “The Law and the Label,” which advises the beginner on what a nutrients product’s label should include, and how to decipher the information according to your garden’s needs. “Do not hesitate to run your own tests, com- paring different nutrient brands,” William writes. “A well-formulated nutrient is a prime contribution to the success of your growing operation.”From basic gardening to high-tech installations,
everything you ever wanted to know about the art of hydroponics is included in Hydroponics for Everybody and is delivered by a credible source. William first discovered hydroponics in 1985. He had a hand in developing aero-hydroponics with his long-time friend and founder of General Hydroponics, Lawrence Brooke. Later, in 1994, he moved back to his hometown in France and created General Hydroponics Europe with his wife, Noucetta Kehdi. Ten years later, William developed and patented bioponics (organic hydroponics), which he covers in chapter nine (“Can Hydroponics be Organic?”) of his book.Hydroponics for Everybody is distributed through
HydroScope (hydro-scope.com) and is available in the gardening section of bookstores, grow shops, garden stores and online.
William Texier is a true innovator in the hydroponics industry. In 2004 he developed and patented “bioponics” (organic hydroponics). Currently, he
manages research and development at General Hydroponics in Europe and internationally, with a team of researchers drawn from different departments of the University of California. He publishes articles and conducts seminars around the world. With 33 years in the field, he is considered one of the most knowledgeable hydroponics experts worldwide.
william texier’s
HydroponicsFor Everybody
all about home horticulture
180 Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
BOOK REVIEW
One.Nitrogen (atomic symbol N), a gaseous element at room temper-ature with atomic number 7, is one of the “big three” plant nutri-ent elements, along with potassium (K) and phosphorus (P). Two.
Nitrogen is relatively rare in the earth, but is abundant in the atmosphere, making up about 78% of the planet’s gas blanket.Three.
Although nitrogen is common in the air, it exists as the inert diatomic gas N2, which is not useful in directly supporting plant or animal life.
FiveAlthough nitrogen is a part of many polyatomic ionic compounds (those made of more than one kind of atom and possessing an electric charge) only two forms of nitrogen are of use to plants—nitrate (NO3
-) and ammonia (NH4
+).
Four.Nitrate ions are readily absorbed by plant roots, but are also quickly leached from soils, while ammonia binds to soil particles, so it not very mobile in the rhizosphere.
Six.Plants need a lot of nitrogen and use up the available supply relatively quickly, which is why
Seven.Nitrogen is an important component of the amino acids that are the building blocks of all the proteins used by a plant. It is also found in the genetic material (DNA and RNA) and in chlorophyll molecules. In other words, it’s really important stuff.
Eight.There are many choices when it comes to providing nitrogen in a nutrient solution to include calcium nitrate, potassium nitrate, nitric acid, ammonium nitrate, ammo-nium sulfate and ammonium hydrogen phosphates.
Nine.The dry weight content of nitrogen in plants generally varies from 1% to 6%, but variations in that range can have a dramatic effect on the health and productivity of plants.
Ten.excess symptoms include unnaturally dark green color and increased susceptibility to disease.
10 FACTS ON... NITROGENBY PHILIP MCINTOSH
181Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
AT A GlANCE
Company: Rasa hydroponics
Owners: Richard Aylard and Scott Alexander
Location: 5725 Winfield blvd. Ste 8 San Jose, CA 95123
Good to know: Rasa stands for Richard Aylard and Scott Alexander
The following is a story of how two young, dedi-cated entrepreneurs went from developing and operating an online store in 2011, to success-fully paving the way to opening their own hydro-ponics store in San Jose, California.
Before opening Rasa Hydroponics, Richard Aylard had studied mechanical engineering, and Scott Alexander was working as an emergency medical technician. But, since both Richard and Scott were both raised in the garden indus-try, and both say they have always had a green thumb, they decided to get into the growing game. “It's why we chose to attend the two largest agricultural schools in California (University of California, Davis and California Polytechnic State University),” shares Scott.The Rasa story truly begins with the development of an
online store in February 2011. “While going to school, we learned how to build a website and opened our store origi-nally called EZ Hydroponics & Organics,” says Scott. “We were drop shippers for the online store and a year later when we graduated we opened our storefront in San Jose in 2012.”
182 Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
TALKING SHOP
Scott, Richard, and Mike behind the Rasa counter.
For the first year, it was only Richard and Scott at the helm. They worked 14-hour days and were open seven days a week from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. “We worked so much we ended up staying at the shop overnight for the first six months,” Scott reveals. “Richard and I had to learn how to multitask. We did the bookkeeping, answered all the phone calls, managed inventory, paid the bills and built new business relationships all while making sure every customer left our store satisfied.” Eventually the guys brought on the third member of
the Rasa team, Big Mike, who has 15 years of experience in the hydroponics and organics industries and is more than just an employee; he is a friend and part of the Rasa Hydroponics family. “We share the same interests and we take care of each other,” says Scott. Besides working around the clock, another struggle to over-
come initially was stocking enough inventory to meet demand. “At the beginning, our bigger customers needed multiples of certain items that we only had one of. Since then we have quadrupled our inventory and we now stock almost every-thing a grower needs, and large amounts of each,” says Scott. These days, Rasa Hydroponics has many suppliers including Hydrofarm, Sunlight Supply, Geopot, Canna, Sanctuary Soils, Humbolt Wholesale, R&M Supply, Central Garden, Sparetime Supply, Can, SG, DL Wholesale, and many more. Scott attributes Rasa's
initial success to its web-site. “Our webpage was our number one source of recognition and market share in the beginning. We started with 80% of our sales being online. But now 80% of our sales are with our awesome local customers,” he explains. Of course, impressing customers is at the heart of what Rasa does. “We will go way out of our way to make a customer happy; whether that be delivering products to a customer, staying a few hours after closing; or helping to make a growroom clean, professional and safe. There isn’t much we will not do for a customer. We take great pride in the fact that customers respect and like us.”
The guys at Rasa Hydroponics remain a dedicated three-man team that is very knowledgeable and mandates the best prices around. While Richard and Scott admit they are young business owners, being 22 and 23 years of age when first opening, they figure their ages did not hold them back in any way. “We thought it would be a bit of a disadvantage when building relationships with manufactures and gaining loyal customers; however, it worked to our advantage. Our customers saw our passion and dedication to horticulture
and respected it. Being straight out of college, we didn’t have girlfriends or a family to take care of, so no matter what the time of day, we were available to help our customers without sacrific-ing important personal time. And, we remain single, so Rasa
Hydroponics is literally our life,” shares Scott.One particularly rewarding day on the job for Scott was
when a customer called them saying their clone looked quite weird. “It's healthy, but it just doesn’t look right,” they had said on the phone with Scott. “We told him to bring in the clone. A few hours later, he did, and it turned out he had cloned a leaf from the plant. We explained that you need to take a cutting of an internode and showed him where they are located on the plant. We exchanged laughs and kept the clone leaf and to our surprise, that leaf stayed healthy for over a month and continued to grow.” In addition to Rasa's 32,000-sq.-ft storefront, Richard and
Scott recently opened an additional 1,500-sq.-ft. parcel for stor-age and are very pleased to be expanding so soon after having just opened a year and a half ago. They both learned quickly that although the industry has gotten a lot bigger throughout the years, it is only going to continue to grow as people become more aware of the benefits of growing your own herbs, veg-etables and fruits. “We have also learned that as rewarding as it is to own a business, it also takes a lot of time and effort to have a successful and reputable business. For Richard and myself, it is a 24/7 job, and we love it!” concludes Scott.
183Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
“we worked so much we ended up staying at the shop overnight for
the first six months.”
Two grow displays inside Rasa.
Scott loading up a customer’s truck with a whole lot of soil.
tEll US A lIttlE bIt AboUt hoW YoUR CoMpANY got StARtEd. Over 30 years ago, growers who didn’t want to settle for grow and bloom stimu-lators available at that time started to develop specific nutrients. We designed a complete line of nutrients that met all demands and could fulfill all wishes of the modern grower. After small-scale production, we went commercial, and nowadays, our award-winning products are successfully sold in several European countries and the US. The demand for this user friendly product line increased enormously in a very short time and is one of the strongest upcoming brands. Who ARE thE pEoplE bEhINd dUtChpRo? Dutchpro is a team of close friends who have shared their experience and love for growing plants for over 30 years. Working close together and making optimum use of the specific skills of the individuals within the team has gotten us where we are today. Everyone within the team has their own role and together we are able to fulfil all disci-plines needed to run the company.
WhAt IS YoUR CoMpANY’S phIloSophY?We only do what we are specialized in: manufacture a highly concentrated, user friendly product line of nutrients
Dutchpro has been on the growing scene in Amsterdam in The Netherlands for the last 33 years. Nowadays, the company’s award-winning formulas are finding their way onto store shelves in the United States. Sales director Peter Knobel shares what the process has been like and why demand for the Dutchpro name is steadily increasing.
at very competitive prices. We decided to refrain from any price increases to keep our products available to all our customers and income levels.
WhICh pRodUCtS ARE YoU bESt kNoWN FoR ANd IN WhICh CoUNtRIES do YoU do bUSINESS? Looking at our product range, Explode and Take Root are best-selling products rapidly replacing competitors’ products (topshooters/bloomstims and rootstims) in being very price competitive and highly concentrated (dilution rate 1:1000). Our award-winning product range is available in all European countries and our customers appreciate getting a better end result with a much lower investment and the use of fewer bottles. This year, we made our first appearance in the US market and our products are exclusively available through Texas Hydroponics and Organics in the state of Texas. The other states will be approached shortly.
184 Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
YOU TELL US
hAvINg StARtEd oUt IN thE NEthERlANdS, hoW dId YoU MANAgE to gEt dUtChpRo AvAIlAblE oN A globAl SCAlE? Our relations with all our partner shops are very strong and we work close together. We created a network where we support our strategic partners and we don’t deliver our product on every corner of the street. Being on every shelf in every shop devalues your product and creates price wars between shops. We have a strong pricing strategy and our prices in every country are equal so there are no parallel imports. In addition, we offer customized marketing support to our partner shops. We respect the individual identity of our shops and offer them the option to promote their brand as well as ours in one go instead of asking them only to promote ours. Beneficial to shop keepers is our smart and integral product range (less stock age) that suits the modern grower via
the cycle. At present we run both an allotment project and school projects where they use our Dutchpro Seeds (vegetable, fruit, herb and flower seeds) with our basic nutrients and our organic products: Take Root, Multi Total and Leaf Green. My palm trees are growing better and flower much more by using our products than you may expect in our climate.
IS thERE ANYthINg hAppENINg At thE R&d StAgE YoU CARE to ShARE?Our product line didn’t change much since the beginning. Why change a win-ning formula? When we started to sell our products abroad, we introduced a 250-ml version of stimulators, a soft water version of our basic nutrients and we launched Auto Flowering feed. Who knows what the future will bring?
WhAt ElSE ShoUld pEoplE kNoW AboUt dUtChpRo?Nowadays, the market is much more competitive and the demand for high technology products has increased enormously. We also see nutrient com-panies who launch many unnecessary products to expand their range to gain more shelf space to compete with each other. We will not expand our product line with these “marketing bottles.” Our customers appreciate getting a better end result with a much lower invest-ment and the use of fewer bottles.
competitive prices with good margins. Working this way brings both parties on a higher level and it creates much more fun for everybody.
WhAt ARE YoUR A + b FoRMUlAS All AboUt? The specific reason that we designed a two-part nutrient (A + B formula) is to create a basic nutrient that offers a better and stronger base for the devel-opment of the plant.
WhAt do bEgINNER gRoWERS NEEd to kNoW AboUt gEttINg StARtEd USINg YoUR pRodUCtS? Our unique prescription delivers a char-acteristic (sweet) taste and fragrance. All products are designed for every irri-gation system as well as most soil, hydro and coco set-ups. In hydro you can even reach an EC level of 2.3 without burning your plants. You need fewer different bottles and amounts of each product to gain higher results than most other products on the market. Product strengths are their simplicity in use, the pricing and the quality of the yield at the end.
IN WhAt WAYS ARE dUtChpRo pRodUCtS good FoR thE ENvIRoNMENt? Mainly we use organic elements that create a stable and clean nutrient (no residue or salt building) to keep plants vital and green until the end of
BELOW FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: A Dutchpro storefront in Barcelona; One Stop 4 Growing promotional material; Dutchpro Girls present Maximum Yield magazine; An allotment project booth; At a trade show in Prague, Peter Knobel’s photo op; Trade show exhibit in Manchester; Special Dutchpro delivery; Dutchpro Girls helping out at Grow2012; Dutchpro ride for more modest deliveries.
“no grow without
dutchpro!”
185Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
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Developments General HydroponicsGeo PotGorilla Grow TentGreenbeamsGrotek CanadaGrow Stone LLCGrowliteHeavy 16High Caliper Growing
Armando MushikThermal, California“I am a fan of Maximum Yield because it seems that every time I am think-ing of something, or am moving to the next step in growing knowledge, the info is often provided by Maximum Yield. This last weekend I went to my hydro store and got a long-awaited printed version of Maximum Yield. As the temperature in the desert at my home gets hot, I was wondering about CO2 to help with heat issues and when I got home I open up and fi nd an article on CO2! Then, [the appropriate] advertising just says, ‘buy me, you need me.’ Thank you, MY, for having these ads so consumers purchase the products to drive the cycle. I call my hydroponics store three hours from my house to see when they will have the next copy. When they do, I drive to go get one, plus supplies. Thank you for everything and all the great informa-tion you provide and thank you for the free back issues available online.”
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tEll US WhY yOu’rE a Fan FoR A ChANCE to WIN A $100 gIFt CERtIFICAtE MoNthlY ANd A gRANd pRIzE oF $1000 to SpENd At YoUR FAvoRItE hYdRo StoRE
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hydroponics information and cool gadgets
coming out. It has helped better my urban
garden. It’s been a few months since [I
started] reading and I’m hooked.”
– Daily, Hemet, California
“The articles are great and really informative, and I’ve learned a lot about new products and methods to keep my plants happy and healthy. Great magazine!”– Sam, Baldwinsville, New York
Other Fan entries!
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lighting, nutrients, hydroponics, soil,
etc. Keep the information going.”
– David, Beaumont, California
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mag. Always can keep up with the
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it is free at my local hydro store.”
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“ Maximum Yield connects us directly with those that matter most: growers, retailers, manufacturers and some very strategic distribution partners.Thank-you Maximum Yield for your commitment to the industry and all those in it.”
VIP Garden Supply203 Commerce St., Suite 101Lodi, CA 95240209-339-9950
Valley Rock Landscape Supply2222 N H St.Lompoc, CA 93436805-736-0841; 805-735-5921
562 Hydro Shop717 East Artesia Blvd. Long Beach, CA 90805562-726-1101_________________________
Green Coast Hydroponics2405 Mira Mar Ave.
Long Beach, CA 90815562-627-5636
_________________________
Grow Light Express5318 East Second St., Suite 164Long Beach, CA 90803888-318-GROW_________________________
Long Beach Hydroponics & Organics
1772 Clark Ave.Long Beach, CA 90815
562-498-9525_________________________
Atwater Hydroponics3350 Glendale Blvd.Los Angeles, CA 90039 323-663-8881_________________________
Green Coast Hydroponics16705 Roscoe Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 91406818-672-8880
_________________________
Green Coast Hydroponics3865 Grand View Blvd.Los Angeles, CA90066
310-398-0700_________________________
Green Door Hydro and Solar830 Traction Ave.Los Angeles, CA 90013212-625-1323
Hardman Hydroponics3511 Youree Dr., ShreveportLos Angeles, CA 71105318-865-0317
Hollywood Hydroponics & Organics5109 1/2 Hollywood Blvd.Los Angeles, CA 90027-6105323-662-1908
Hydroasis2643 S. Fairfax Ave.Los Angeles, CA 90232888-355-4769LAX Hydro
10912 S. La Cienaga BoulevardLos Angeles, CA 90304 310-337-6995
Nirvana Hydroponics340 South San PedroLos Angeles, CA 90013 310-795-2914_________________________
Sunland Hydroponics4136 Eagle Rock Blvd.Los Angeles, CA 90065
323-254-2800_________________________
_________________________
Superior Hydroponic Supply5651 Hollywood Blvd.Los Angeles,CA 90028323-465-grow (4769)
_________________________
Green Giant Hydroponics7183 Hwy. 49 Unit BLotus, CA 95651 530-622-4465
Big Momma’s11455 Clayton Creek Rd.Lower Lake, CA 95457707-994-1788
California Green Hydroponics16491 Rd., 26, Suite 101Madera, CA 93638559-674-1400
Grow22333 Pacific Coast Hwy., Suite 101Malibu, CA 90265310-456-2910
Deep Roots Garden Center & Flower Shop207 N. Sepulveda Blvd.Manhattan Beach, CA 90266310-376-0567
B & S Gardening Supplies592 Commerce CourtManteca, CA 95336209-239-8648
Monterey Bay Horticulture Supply218 Reindollar Ave., Suite 7AMarina, CA 93933831-38-HYDROTwo Chix Garden Supply1230 Yuba St.Marysville, CA 95901530-923-2536_________________________
Northcoast Horticulture Supply
1580 Nursery WayMcKinleyville, CA 95519
707-839-9998_________________________
Mendocino Garden Shop44720 Maint St. (at Hwy. 1) Mendocino, CA 95460707-937-3459
Hooked Up Hydroponics1004 W. 15th St. Suite B & CMerced, CA 95340 209-723-1300
Indoor/Outdoor Garden Supply1501 W. Main St.Merced, CA 95340209-580-4425
The Urban Farmer Store653 E. Blithedale Ave.Mill Valley, CA 94941415-380-3840
Hydroponics Inc.3811 Wacker Dr.Mira Loma, CA 91752951-685-4769
Mission Viejo Hydroponics 24002 Via Fabricante Suite 502 Mission Viejo, CA 92691949-380-1894
Central Valley Gardening509 Winmoore Way, Suite TModesto, CA 95358209-537-GROW
Coca’s Central Valley Hydroponics116 West Orangeburg Ave.Modesto, CA 95350209-567-0590
_________________________
Hydro Bros.521 Winmoore Way, Suite A
Modesto, CA 95358209-537-8220
_________________________
Growers Choice Hydroponics1100 Carver Rd. #20Modesto, CA 95350209-522-2727
Year Round Garden Supply11000 Carver Rd. #20Modesto, CA 95350209-522-2727_________________________
Green Light Hydroponics
2615 Honolula Ave.Montrose, CA 91020
818-640-2623_________________________
247 Garden 1101 Monterey Pass Rd., Unit BMonterey Park, CA 91754323-318-2600
South Bay Hydroponics and Organics - Mtn. View569 East Evelyn Ave.Mountain View, CA 94041650-968-4070
Murphys Hydroponics & Organics785 Murphys Creek Rd., Suite C2Murphys, CA 95247209-728-8058
Redwood Garden Supply55 Myers Ave.Myers Flat, CA 95554707-943-1515_________________________
Endless Green Hydroponics25 Enterprise Court, Suite 3
Napa, CA 94558707-254-0200
_________________________
Wyatt Supply 4407 Solano Ave.Napa, CA 94558707-251-3747_________________________
Conejo Hydroponics3481 Old Conejo Rd., #106Newbury Park, CA 91320
805-480-9596_________________________
Big Momma’s2581 Stokes Ave.Nice, CA 95464707-274-8369
Foothill Hydroponics10705 Burbank Blvd.N. Hollywood, CA 91601818-760-0688
One Stop Hydroponics12822 Victory BlvdNorth Hollywood, CA 91606818-980-5855
Lumatek Digital Ballasts33 Commercial Boulevard, Suite BNovato, CA 94949415-233-4273
Marin Hydroponics1219 Grant Ave.Novato, CA 94945415-897-2197
Roots Grow Supply 40091 Enterprise Dr.Oakhurst, CA 93644559-683-6622
194 Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
MAXIMUM YIElDdistributors Retail Stores listed alphabetically by city in each state.
3rd Street Hydroponics692 4th St.Oakland, CA 94607510-452-5521
Medicine Man Farms1602 53rd Ave.Oakland, CA 94601707-980-0456
Plant-N-Grow1602 53rd Ave.Oakland, CA 94601707-980-0456
Hydrobrew1319 South Coast Hwy.Oceanside, CA 92054760-966-1885; 877-966-GROW
Socal Hydroponics1727-B Oceanside Blvd.Oceanside, CA 92054760-439-1084
Cultivate Ontario2000 Grove Ave. #a110Ontario, CA 91761909-781-6142
Flairform1751 S Pointe Ave.Ontario, CA 91761213-596-8820_________________________
Green Coast OntarioUnit 102-103 1920 S. Rochester Ave.
Ontario, CA909-605-5777
_________________________
National Garden Wholesale/ Sunlight Supply
1950 C South Grove Ave.Ontario, CA 91761
888-888-3319_________________________
Palm Tree Hydroponics2235 E 4th St., Suite GOntario, CA 91764909-941-9017_________________________
RH Distribution1751 S. Pointe Ave.Ontario, CA 91761
888-545-8112_________________________
Green Coast Hydroponics496 Meats Ave.
Orange, CA 92865714-974-4769
_________________________
Greenback Garden Supply9341 Greenback Ln., Suite COrangevale, CA 95662530-391-4329_________________________
Advanced Soil & Garden Supply
350 Oro Dam Blvd.Oroville, CA 95965
530-533-2747_________________________
Igro Hydro2280 Veatch St.Oroville, CA 95965530-534-4476
Orville Organic Gardens5250 Olive Hwy., Suite 1Oroville, CA 95966530-589-9950
Amazon Garden Supply29 Ridge View LaneOroville, CA 95966530-589-5054
Amazon Greenlight521 Cal Oak Rd.Oroville, CA 95966530-534-4769
Amazon Growing Needs5369 Old Olive Hwy.Oroville, CA 95966530-589-9850
US Orchid & Hydroponic Supplies1621 South Rose Ave.Oxnard, CA 93033805-247-0086
Pacifica Hydroponics90 Eureka SquarePacifica, CA 94044650-355-5100_________________________
America’s Best Hydroponics &
Gardening Center641 W. Palmdale Blvd., Unit D
Palmdale, CA 93551661-266-3906
_________________________
Hydroponics Unlimited641 W. Palmdale Blvd., D
Palmdale, CA 93550661-266-3906
_________________________
DNA Hydroponics Inc19345 North Indian Canyon Dr.,
Suite 2-FNorth Palm Springs, CA 92258
760-671-5872_________________________
Green Bros Hydroponics14072 Osborne St.
Panorama City, CA 91402818-891-0200
_________________________
Mission Hydroponics1236 East MissionPomona, CA 91766909-620-7099
New Leaf Hydro34150 123rd St.Parablossom, CA 93553 661-944-2226
Alternative Hydro3870 East, Colorado Blvd.Pasadena, CA 91107888-50-HYDRO
365 Hydroponics2062 Lincoln Ave.Pasadena, CA 91103626-345-9015
Garden All Year Inc.3850 Ramada Dr., Unit D2Paso Robles, CA 93446805-434-2333
Supersonic Hydroponic & Organic Garden Supply3850 Ramada Dr., Unit D2Paso Robles, CA 93446805-434-2333
Foothills Hydrogarden3133 Penryn Rd.Penryn, CA 95663916-270-2413_________________________
Four Seasons Landscape Materials
17115 Penn Valley Dr.Penn Valley, CA 95946
530-432-9906_________________________
Funny Farms Hydroponics963 Transport Way, #12
Petaluma, CA 94954707-775-3111
_________________________
House of Hydro224 Weller St., #BPetaluma, CA 94952707-762-4769
Wyatt Supply1016 Lakeville StPetaluma, CA 94952707-762-3747
Deep Roots Hydroponics830 Perry LanePetaluma CA 94954-5320707-776-2800
JNJ Hydroponics 4774 Phelan Rd., Suite 2Phelan, CA 92371760-868-0002
Turbo Grow1889 San Pablo Ave.Pinole, CA 94564510-724-1291
Hillside Hydro & Garden4570 Pleasant Valley Rd.Placerville CA 95662530-644-1401
All Elements Hydroponics & Gardening Supply5623 Motherlode Dr.Placerville, CA 95667530-642-4215
IGS Hydroponics & Organics57 California Ave., Suite 1Pleasonton CA 94566925-426-GROW
Best Yield Garden Supply3503 West Temple Ave., Unit APomona, CA 91768909-839-0505
Mission Hydroponics1236 East MissionPomona, CA 91766909-620-7099
Emerald Garden8249 Archibald Ave.Ranch Cucamanga, CA 91730909-466-3796
Radiant Roots Gardening & Hydroponics1394 S Pacific Coast Hwy.Redondo Beach, CA 90277 310-540-2005_________________________
The Hydro Shop of Redondo Beach
1304 S. Pacific Coast HwyRedondo Beach, CA 90277
310-540-2005_________________________
Dazey’s Supply3082 Redwood Dr.Redway, CA 95560
707-923-3002_________________________
Shadow Valley Aquatics75 Kimick WayRed Bluff, CA 96080530-526-0479
Bare Roots Hydroponics1615 East Cypress, #5Redding, CA 96002530-244-2215
Humboldt Hydroponics2010 Tunnel Rd.Redway, CA 95560707-923-1402
Redway Feed Garden & Pet Supply290 Briceland Rd.Redway, CA 95560707-923-2765
Sylvandale Gardens1151 Evergreen Rd.Redway, CA 95560707-923-3606
Hydro King105 Hartnell Ave., Suite C and DRedding, CA 96002888-822-8941
Orsa Organix111 Willow St.Redwood City, CA 94063650-369-1269_________________________
Mendocino Greenhouse & Garden Supply960 East School Way
Redwood Valley, CA 95470707-485-0668
_________________________Hydro Hills Hydroponics
19320 Vanowen St.Reseda, CA 91335
Hi-Tech Gardening5327 Jacuzzi St., #282Richmond, CA 94804510-524-4710
The Urban Farmer Store2121 San Joaquin St.Richmond, CA 94804510-524-1604
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Discount Hydroponics4745 Hiers Ave.
Riverside, CA 92505877-476-9487
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All Ways Hydro2220 Eastridge Ave., Suite CRiverside, CA 92507888-HYDRO98
Calwest Hydroponics11620 Sterling Ave., Suite A Riverside, CA 92503 800-301-9009
Hydro Depot5665 Redwood Dr., #BRohnert Park, CA 94928707-584-2384
Murphy’s Hydropincs & Organics799 W. Stocktan St. Sanora, CA 95370209-532-2022
Constantly Growing 1918 16th St. Sacramento, CA 95811916-448-1882
Green Acres Hydroponics1215 Striker Ave., Suite 180Sacramento, CA 95834916-419-4394
Greenfire Sacramento3230 Auburn Blvd.Sacramento, CA 95821916-485-8023
Green Thumb Hydroponics1537 Fulton Ave.Sacramento, CA 95825916-934-2476
Green Thumb Hydroponics35 Quinta Court, Suite BSacramento, CA 95823916-689-6464_________________________
KY Wholesale8671 Elder Creek Rd. #600
Sacramento, CA 95828916-383-3366
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Hydro City 8510 Morrison Creek Dr. Suite 200 Sacramento, CA 95828916-388-8333
J Street HydroGarden2321 J St.Sacramento, CA 95816916-444-4473
Mystic Gardens8484 Florin Rd., #110Sacramento, CA 95828916-381-2464
Sac Hydroponics9529 Folson Blvd., Suite CSacramento, CA 95827916-369-7968
Skywide Import & Export Ltd.5900 Lemon Hill Ave.Sacramento, CA 95824916-383-2369
Tradewinds Wholesale Garden Supplies1235 Striker Ave. #180Sacramento, CA 95834888-557-8896
Green Joint Ventures61 Tarp CircleSalinas, CA 93901831-998-8628
Greenmile Hydroponic Garden Supply1480 South E. St., Suite DSan Bernardino, CA 92408909-885-5919
Pure Food Gardening/Microclone830 H Bransten Rd. San Carlos, CA94070-3338
Green Gopher Garden Supply679 Redwood Ave., Suite ASand City, CA 93955831-899-0203
Modern Gardens26620 Valley Center Dr., Unit #104Santa Clarita, CA 91351661-513-4733
Best Coast Growers4417 Glacier Ave., Suite CSan Diego, CA 92120800-827-1876
City Farmer’s Nursery4832 Home AveSan Diego, CA 92105619-284-6358
Home Brews & Gardens3176 Thorn St.San Diego, CA 92104619-630-2739
Indoor Garden Depot1848 Commercial St.San Diego, CA 92113619-255-3552
Innovative Growing Solutions (IGS)5060 Santa Fe St., Suite DSan Diego, CA 92109858-578-4477_________________________
Mighty Garden Supply4780 Mission
Gorge Pl. #A-1San Diego, CA 92120
619-287-3238_________________________
Miramar Hydroponics & Organics8952 Empire St.San Diego, CA 92126858-549-8649_________________________
Oracle Garden Supply5755 Oberlin Dr., Suite 100
San Diego, CA 92121858-558-6006
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195Maximum Yield USA | August 2013
MAXIMUM YIElDdistributors Retail Stores listed alphabetically by city in each state.
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San Diego Hydroponics Beach Cities4122 Napier St.
San Diego, CA 92110619-276-0657
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Direct Hydroponics Wholesale1034 W. Arrow Hwy. #DSan Dimas, CA 91773888-924-9376
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House of Hydroponics732 W. Arrow Hwy.
San Dimas, CA 91773877-592-5111; 909-592-5111
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Liquid Gardens1034 West Arrow Hwy. #DSan Dimas, CA 91773888-924-9376
Hydro Depot2090 Cesar Chavez St.San Francisco, CA 94124415-282-5200
Plant It Earth Warehouse1 Dorman Ave.San Francisco, CA 94124415-970-2465
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Grow Your Own Hydroponics & Organics - West
3401 Taraval St.
san Francisco, CA 94116415-731-2115
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The Hydroponic Connection Warehouse,1995 Evans Ave.San Francisco, CA 94124415-824-9376
The Hydroponic Connection San Francisco1549 Custer Ave.San Francisco, CA 94124415-864-9376
Nor Cal Hydroponics4837 Geary Blvd.San Francisco, CA 94118 415-933-8262
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Urban Gardens. 704 Filbert St.
San Francisco, CA 94133415-421-4769
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San Francisco Hydro123 Tenth St.San Francisco, CA 94103
Urban Gardens1394 Lowrie St.San Francisco, CA 94080650-588-5792
The Urban Farmer Store2833 Vicente St.San Francisco, CA 94116415-661-2204
US Garden417 Agostinio Rd.San Gabriel, CA 91776626-285-5009
Inland Empire Hydrogarden1301-C South State St.San Jancinto, CA 92853Hahn’s Lighting260 E. VA Suite 1San Jose, CA 95112408-295-1755
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Rasa Hydroponics 5725 Winfield Blvd., Suite 8
San Jose, CA 95123408-227-7272
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Urban Gardens1999 Monterey Rd.San Jose, CA 95125408-298-8081
Plant Life32 Race St., San Jose, CA 95126408-283-9191
Hydrofarm, Inc. 2249 South McDowell Ext.Petaluma, CA 94954800-634-9990
Hydrofarm Southwest12991 Leffingwell Rd.Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670800-634-9990
South Bay Hydroponics and Organics - San Jose1185 South Bascom Ave.San Jose, CA 95128408-292-4040
Beach Cities Hydroponics33155 Camino Capistrano Unit F. San Juan Capistrano, CA 92675949-493-4200
D&S Garden Supplies17-130 Doolittle Dr.San Leandro, CA 94577510-430-8589
Hydrogarden Delight13762 Doolittle Dr.San Leandro, CA 94577510-903-1808Central Coast Hydrogarden1951 Santa Barbara St.San Luis Obispo, CA 93401805-544-GROW
Healthy Harvest Hydroponics and Organics2958 S. Higuera St.San Luis Obispo, CA 93401805-596-0430
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San Diego Hydroponics North County Inland
802 N. Twin Oaks Valley Road #108
San Marcos, CA 92069760-510-1444
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Marin Hydroponics721 Francisco Blvd. EastSan Rafael, CA 94901415-482-8802
San Rafael Hydroponics1417 Fourth St, San Rafael, CA 94901415-455-9655
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Green Coast Hydroponics135 Nogal Dr.
Santa Barbara, CA 93110805-898-9922
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Nutes Int’l204 N Quarantina St. Santa Barbara, CA 93103 805-687-6699
Planet Earth Hydroponics102 East Haley St.Santa Barbara, CA 93101805-899-0033_________________________
Urban Grow Systems204 N Quarantina St.
Santa Barbara, CA 93103805-637-6699
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Santa Clarita Valley Hydroponics25835 Railroad Ave. #26Santa Clarita, CA 91350
Boron has an important structural role in the development and growth of most plants. In fact, 90% of total boron content within the plant is located in the cell walls.
1.
7.
When the nutrient solution is too cold (below 60°F), it will shock your plants and slow down the metabolic processes within the plant, which might end up stunting growth.
A strawberry has over 300 compounds that contribute on multiple levels to make up the characteristic flavor associated with a ripe strawberry. A tomato has more than 400 aromatic volatiles that constitute its aroma and flavor, but only 15 to 20 in sufficient enough quantities to impact flavor.
Salts can reduce root function, and thus reduce water transport to the leaves, or they can accumulate in the leaves themselves. In either case, water loss in plants occurs first at the tips and margins of its leaves and will lead to tip and marginal necrosis if not treated promptly.
The immediate cleanup of spills, excess water or plant runoff is imperative in maintaining sanitization in an indoor garden. Excess moisture on the floor will raise the room’s humidity level and increase the risk of mold or rot, especially if it is occurring regularly.
Base cations such as calcium, magnesium and potassium can raise pH; so will an abundance of sodium. As these elements are used by the plant (or washed out of the area) the pH of the media may drift down and become more acidic if not replaced. Over-application of any of these elements can cause pH values to drift towards basic.
Unsterilized soil often contains parasites. To sterilize dirt that’s straight from the ground or otherwise previously used, bake it by placing it in the oven for an hour at 250°F, being sure to thoroughly moisten it first. Once baked, add about one tablespoon of fertilizer to each gallon of soil, and blend.
Rockwool, a popular media in the hydroponic industry, has a cation exchange capacity (CEC) of zero, which means it possesses no negative charge to form bonds with positively charged fertilizers. This allows for extreme optimization of nutrient delivery but also leaves little margin for error.
The more restricted the plant’s root zone volume, the greater the replenishment rate of oxygen must be.
Since a homemade compost tea is not actively aerated, it can contain anaerobic bacteria in large quantities. For this reason, DIY compost tea is best suited to in-ground plantings. Never use this anaerobic compost tea on your indoor plants. It might work out fine, but the worst-case scenario would be nutrient imbalance and root rot.
DO YOU KNOW?
BLuSHinG HydrOPOniC TOMaTOESWe are all familiar with the benefits of eating seasonally, but by taking advantage of the technology used in hydroponics, we can enjoy high-quality produce year-round. In this article, we’ll learn the how’s and why’s of hydroponic growing—through the eyes of the tomato.
aMEndinG GardEn SOiL After the harvest ends, some would argue that’s when the hardest work for a grower begins. It involves not only the storing of the bountiful fruits of your labor of love, but also the cleanup and the preparation of your next garden patch.
SEnSiBLE COnTrOL SySTEMS Control systems are commonplace in almost every industry and market, and they are certainly a large aspect of any indoor garden set-up. These systems involve three key elements: actuators, controllers and sensors. Are yours all in working order?
Maximum Yield USA September will be available next month for free at select indoor gardening retail stores across the country and on maximumyield.com
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