INDOOR GARDENING FREE New Zealand March/April 2014 maximumyield.com TACOMA APRIL 5-6 NOVI MAY 31 - JUNE 1 SAN FRAN JULY 26-27 BOSTON OCTOBER 18-19 2014 INDOOR GARDENING EXPO TOUR SOFT WATER’S not that hard! PLUS Learning to Garden Taking Plant Cuttings Supplementing CO 2
Hydroponics gardening resources by Maximum Yield, a free how-to hydroponics gardening and indoor gardening monthly magazine that is distributed internationally through stores that retail hydroponics gardening products. Keywords: hydroponics, indoor gardening, maximum yield, small space gardening, do it yourself, organics, urban gardening, off the grid, self-sufficient, aquaponics, hydro, aeroponics, greenhouse
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Susan Eitel has a degree in landscape horticulture from Humber College in Toronto. She has worked in the hydroponics industry for more than 25 years, which has proved invaluable over the years. Susan has always been interested in benefi cial insects and integrated pest management. She currently lives in the Niagara area with her beloved husband and dog.
Glen Babcock is the owner of Garden City Fungi and the founder of ExHale Homegrown CO2. Glen has been involved in agriculture his entire life. Glen graduated from the University of Montana with a degree in forestry and has been a mycologist for more than 23 years. His research has been published in scientifi c journals worldwide.
Matt LeBannister developed a green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced gardeners. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented leading companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007. His articles are published around the world.
Jennifer Casey loves her two dogs, her husband, the amazing garden he grows and living in the country—in that order. Crafting, reading and cooking from the garden are her favourite ways to spend her time.
Matt Geschke has a B.S. in biology from Baldwin Wallace College. He also completed an environmental geology degree from the University of Akron and received his M.S. in 2002. Matt is an adjunct professor at Kent State University.
Raquel Neofi t is a freelance writer for the horticulture, travel and lifestyle industries. She has a background in business and radio, and is an avid believer that hydroponics is way of the future. Follow Raquel’s writing on her blog, Black Thumbs Guide to Growing Green—the misadventures of the vertical herb gardening movement—and My Food Story on Facebook.
Australia’s extreme temperatures this summer have led to more gardeners wanting to take control of their growing environments. Now is the perfect opportunity to spend more time in your indoor gardens and greenhouses. This issue of Maximum Yield has all sorts of handy tricks you can apply to your gardens, from a simple guide to taking plant cuttings, to supplementing your CO2, to adding predatory ladybirds to help control pests. We also take a look at the differences between soft and hard water to ensure your plants don’t just survive, but thrive. To round off this issue we’ve included an interview with Tasmanian grower Rodney Dunn and
a feature on The Grow Shop, a retail store in New South Wales. Add some new products from our product profile section to the mix, along with a Q&A with the owners of TNB Naturals, and you are ready to go!It’s a bit of a journey, but we would like to invite you all to come and experience one or all
of our 2014 Coast to Coast Grow Like a Pro Indoor Gardening Expos in the United States: Tacoma, Washington (April 5 to 6); Novi, Michigan (May 31 to June 1); San Francisco, California (July 26 to 27) or Boston, Massachusetts (October 18 to 19). Exhibitors from Australia and around the world will be showcasing the latest products and technologies. Visit indoorgardenexpo.com for special accommodation rates and free VIP tickets. We hope to see you there!Thank you to all who have entered our I’m a Fan contest. We have enjoyed what our readers
have had to say and we know the winners have loved spending their prizes at their favorite retail shops. You can win, too. Tell us how much you enjoy reading Maximum Yield by going to maximumyield.com/features/contests/i-m-a-fan or emailing [email protected] and you'll be entered to win monthly $100 cash prizes to spend at your local grow store. We will choose a new winner every month and a grand prize winner will be drawn in December to receive $1,000 to spend at the indoor garden shop of their choice.
Maximum Yield's Youngest FanDarcie and her daughter Anna, from British Columbia, Canada, are the 12th winners of Maximum Yield’s I’m a Fan contest. Darcie says, “I started gardening because my three-year-old daughter
wanted to grow food and she was so dedicated to her garden all summer. She was heartbroken that the garden would be done after the fall harvest so we picked up your magazine at our plant shop and now she is growing tomatoes, lettuce, peppers, strawberries, dragon fruit, lemon trees and orange trees in our basement. Thank you for all of the wonderful information, it has helped keep her hobby going year-round.”
Editor’s Note: Thank you for the great response, Darcie. We hope you and Anna enjoy your $100 gift certificate at your favourite indoor gardening shop, TLC Hydroponics and Garden Supply.
Growing With Maximum Yield John Brady from Florida, United States, is the 13th
winner of Maxi-mum Yield’s I’m a fan Contest. John says, “I have been a fan of Max Yield since it was nothing more than a few
pages per issue. Since then, Max Yield has become the industry standard for information and the logical comparison to which all are held up to. Best of all, it is still free. I keep my issues as a ref-erence for any and all problems or new endeavours. The many expos I have been fortunate to attend are always a highlight of the year.”
Editor’s Note: Thank you, John. We hope you enjoy your $100 gift certifi-cate at Simply Hydroponics.
Anna
John Brady
I’m a Fan Grand Prize WinnerCongratulations to our 2013 Maximum Yield I’m a Fan Grand Prize Winner. Steven R. Van Vranken has received a grand prize of $1,000 to be spent at his favourite in-door gardening shop, Indoor Garden Depot in Vancouver, Washington, United States. Steven says, “I have post-traumatic stress disorder, so I don’t get out much, but when I do I find my way to the grow store and when there’s a new magazine available, it makes my day. I can’t believe it’s free. Thank you.”
Editor’s Note: Thank you for sharing your thoughts with us, Steven. We’re happy to have you as a fan. We hope you enjoy the new growing system you plan to obtain this year.
Constantly ResearchingThe reason I love Maximum Yield is be-cause you guys are constantly researching new ideas and products, basically putting the latest in technology at our fingertips! You guys have started a movement, and I’ll follow for life.Jason G., via email
Learning a Lot Only mag I read anymore. Learn a lot of what I know from there. Very informative ar-ticles good for newbies and novices alike.@abel49er21, via Twitter
Keeping Ahead of the Curve I enjoy reading Maximum Yield because it is so informative. I like the how-to articles and being able to see the new gear. It keeps me ahead of everyone else. Thanks again!Brandon Fiore, via email
Crazy Veggie GrowingThe craziest thing I have ever grown was kohlrabi, on a vertical soil and pot grow within a nylon net attached to the southern-facing side of my home. One of my neighbours commented that it looked as though a band of green aliens had at-tached themselves to my house.Joe O'Neal, via email
Editor's Note: Joe was responding to Maximum Yield’s eNews question of the month for January. Subscribe to this online newsletter by going to maximumyield.com and clicking on the Features tab.
8 Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
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A completely sealed growth chamber (enclosed climate agriculture) can be a difficult environment to maintain because a balance between light, heat, CO2 and humidity must be met while the air is continually recircu-lated instead of exchanged with the outside environment. Generally, it takes a lot of equipment to maintain all these plant growth variables at the same time. CO2 enrichment to levels as high as 1,000 to 1,500 ppm is used in
growth chambers to help boost plant growth (note, higher levels can become toxic to plants). Often, compressed CO2 cylinders are used as a source since burners generate a lot of heat. The reason why most growing environments, including growth chambers and greenhouses, are vented is to not only replenish the CO2 plants take up, but to also remove heat buildup and water vapour. Plants release large amounts of water vapour into the air when they transpire, which rapidly increases the humidity (particularly under warm growing conditions). High humidity has negative effects on plant growth. If the plants can’t tran-spire due to high humidity, the flow of nutrients (particularly calcium from the roots to the leaves) is severely restricted and the plant growth stagnates. High humidity also allows for the growth of fungal spores and bacterial pathogens. So, in order to keep the heat and humidity down, moist air is vented out and replaced with drier air, often at a rate of one complete air exchange per minute. If venting and air exchange are not used in an enclosed environment,
heat and humidity must be controlled in other ways. It is possible to use large dehumidification units to remove water vapour and air condition-ers to control heat; however, all must be run at once to maintain the required humidity levels (50 to 67% for most plants). So, a completely enclosed growing chamber requires heat and water
vapour removal from the air, as well as lighting and CO2 enrichment at the correct level to maintain balanced growth. In theory, if all these parameters are met, the enclosed environment can be run with no vent-ing. There are certain gases, such as ethylene, that might still build up in a tightly sealed room, so sources of this and any other unwanted gases need to be carefully checked for.
I’ve read a lot of books and have been through trial and error, and I have been asked repeatedly about inducing CO2 into a sealed (air tight) growroom. With that being said, I have yet to figure it out completely. Mainly, is it necessary to have a vent in a sealed growroom if CO2 is kept at a consistent level with monitors?
Thanks, Terry Haight, Jr.
Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort. Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit suntec.co.nz/consultants.htm and suntec.co.nz/books.htm for more information.
carnivorous plants rare in New Zealand Carnivorous plants have long held a fascination for people from all walks of life—and for good reason. With their bizarre and fantastical shapes, they lure and trap wayward insects and other animals, benefiting from the digested remains. But they are not just popular for their strange insect-eating habits—they are rapidly gaining popularity due to their beauty. Growing carnivorous plants in New Zealand need not be a challenge. With careful insight into their specific cultivation requirements, anyone can have a gorgeous collection of these plants to call their own—on windowsills, in greenhouses, bog gardens and in containers on patios. Of the 16 genera of carnivorous plants found worldwide, New Zealand only has representatives from the two most common genera. From these two genera there are 12 species in total thought to be native. They are Drosera, or the sundews, with seven species and Utricularia, or the bladderworts, with five species. (Source: nzcps.co.nz)
Going bananasAustralia’s banana industry has returned to pre-Cyclone Yasi levels of economic activity, making an annual economic contribution of about $1.1 billion and generating almost 10,000 full-time jobs, according to new industry research. Research shows the banana industry has an estimated farm gate gross production value of $480 million annually. This compares with $450 million in 2010, the year before Tropical Cyclone Yasi destroyed about 80% of Australia’s banana crop in February 2011. Other figures show Australia is producing 341,000 tonnes of bananas each year, based on production in 2013, up from 310,000 tonnes in the pre-Cyclone Yasi 2010 financial year. There are no exports of bananas because the cost of production in Australia is higher than many other banana-producing countries, such as the Philippines and South American countries. There have also not been any imports into Australia due to quarantine risks.(Source: abgc.org.au)
top picks for AquaponicsTilapia is the most common fish to be used in aquaponics systems overseas, although the use of tilapia in
Australia is prohibited due to their ability to overtake and dominate local waterways. Barramundi, silver perch, trout, golden perch, catfish, Murray cod, jade perch, Australian bass, black bream, eels and yabbies are suited
to the climate in Australia, and are legal to own and grow using aquaponics. Contact your local government to be certain. As for which plants to try, there have been many studies on what can be grown in aquaponics, including
leafy green vegetables, vine plants, fruit and fruit trees, flowers and fodder. The cost and turnover time of each crop varies dramatically, with leafy greens produced in a few months, and root-based plants and fruit trees taking
Apple Growers on targetNew Zealand apple growers will probably reach $1 billion in exports ahead of their
10-year 2022 target as the industry benefits from higher productivity and rising prices. The apple industry, New Zealand’s second-largest fresh
fruit export after kiwifruit, has raised export prices to offset the negative impact of a higher New Zealand dollar on returns,
says Gary Jones, business development manager at grower organisation Pipfruit New Zealand. Better ac-
cess to seasonal staff through a 2008 government scheme has helped orchard owners raise produc-tion. New Zealand’s apple industry accounts for a quarter of the southern hemisphere’s fresh apple exports. New Zealand apples sell for a premium over rivals by as much as 20% and sales are benefiting from increased affluence in Asia and better access to markets, Gary says.(Source: tvnz.co.nz)
Kangaroo paws The colour and form of kangaroo paws make them one of the most rewarding Australian native plants for the home garden. Kangaroo paws are also great cut flowers and are exported to many parts of the globe. They occur naturally only in the southwest. The overall colour of the flowers, which varies among species, is influenced by fine, coloured hairs that cover the flowers and, sometimes, part of the stalk. The flowers appear over spring and summer and are pollinated by birds. The long flower stalks usually rise above the undergrowth and advertise the presence of nectar in the flowers. The shape of the flowers and the position of the pollen-bearing anthers allow pollen to be deposited on the head of feeding birds. Pollen is transferred from flower to flower as the birds feed. Kangaroo paws generally grow best in well-drained soils in sunny positions. (Source: anbg.gov.au)
craft beer brewers tap into MelonsWatermelon lovers will soon have an interesting new way to enjoy the fruit. A Melbourne micro-brewery has developed a German-style wheat beer that features watermelon as the star ingredient. Owner Josh Uljans says many of the melons needed for the craft brew will be sourced from the Northern Territory. “We put around 200 kg of watermelon in each batch, so we need a fairly reasonable and steady supply,” he says. “I've heard it’s a great growing district for melons, particularly over the winter months. The supplies down south dry up over that period because it is a little bit too cold down here so we would like to get some from up north.” Josh says finding the perfect type of melon is a critical part of the beer making process. “A good brewing watermelon is one that has a lot of juice and is nice and fresh,” he says. (Source: abc.net.au)
Hybrid X System Excels in World’s Hottest cityAdelaide was named the hottest city on earth with temperatures exceeding 46°C in January. The Hybrid X greenhouse in the North of Adelaide excelled in the high temperatures. The Hybrid X system is a newly developed greenhouse that uses a traditional pad wall system in the gable wall, coupled with a number of highly efficient eC fans to force cool air into the greenhouse and a number of double tubes under the grow gutters. The system is also able to recirculate air within the greenhouse because of the Airco corridor system. The Hybrid X greenhouse also operates using full venting in the roof, meaning the fans can be switched off when not required. The system is ideal for areas of high temperature and low humidity. The Hybrid X greenhouse is also ideal for opposite conditions in spring and autumn with low temperature and high humidity.(Source: fabergreenhouses.com.au)
Garlic Demand GrowsHunter garlic growers are moving to boost local production as imports continue to saturate the market. Around a tenth of garlic sold in Australia is locally grown, but the industry is experiencing growing popularity in the Hunter region. Upper Myall garlic grower Jocelyn Colleran says more people are starting to want the local product. “All garlic growers, whether they're large scale or at the lower level just can't keep up supply for the demand,” she says, adding that local growers want to enhance home-grown production. “In the late 1990s, it was probably verging on 90 to 95%, and that amount is going down to probably more in the region of 85%,” she says. “There's still a lot of scope for more Australian-grown garlic, but the opportunity is increasing for people to get their garlic locally.”(Source: abc.net.au)
Economics of Hydroponics The hydroponic food production industry is expanding at a rate that is set
to outpace the 2014 International Monetary Fund estimate of global growth by 80%. Hydroponic systems are being deployed to grow key vegetable
and fruit crops at scale, driving the transition to safe and sustainable food production worldwide. Agriculture is traditionally a conservative market
sector, but the benefits of higher yields with lower inputs, improved soil and water quality and food safety are compelling forces for change. The worldwide
market value of hydroponically produced food will show sustained strength with an estimated 6.5% compound annual growth rate between 2013 and 2018.
Producer value will increase from $17.7 billion to $24.3 billion. “Hydroponic growing advances food safety and traceability that customers, retailers and even food
regulators are demanding,” says Carol L. Stimmel, founder of Manifest Mind.(Source: manifestmind.com)
budlinkBudLink is still the original and ultimate liquid silica product that has been enjoyed by growers across the world for more than 15 years. BudLink’s unique recipe is formulated from the ground up and includes other beneficial elements. BudLink is effective at all stages of growth and flowering. It compensates for differing plant nutrient requirements, which occur in the presence of silica in the same way a body builder’s nutritional requirements change as their body grows. BudLink is a plant builder that improves plant strength and a plant’s ability to fight against bacteria and insects. BudLink’s active ingredients are imbedded into the plant’s cell walls, producing plants with thicker and greener foliage. When used as a foliar spray it is easily absorbed by the leaves and forms a barrier against airborne bacteria and harsh light levels. Visit an indoor gardening retail store for more information.
the Enhancer by tNb NaturalsQuickly becoming one of the most talked about products to hit the market, this highly-effective, user-activated CO2 canister delivers a high rate of CO2, comparable to a costly CO2 system. The enhancer’s unique features include its ability to slow the release of CO2 during the night cycle, improving overall plant health and final yield. Store owners love its three-year shelf life and growers are amazed at how the enhancer generates one of the highest ppms in the all-natural category of CO2 products. The enhancer's ease of use—simply add water and shake—and the fact that it emits no heat makes it a top choice for knowledgeable growers. For more information, visit your local garden store.
Mag Kits from GrowlushNew Mag Kits from Growlush provide a great value to growers worldwide. each Mag Kit includes a magnetic ballast, an HPS bulb, an MH bulb and an aluminium batwing reflector. The Mag Kits are available in 250-W, 400-W and 600-W sizes. Growlush and its Macro Power bal-last manufacturing facility have been producing ballasts in Australia for more than 18 years. Since 1996, Macro Power has been supplying Sylvania Lighting, producing general magnetic ballasts from 35 to 3,500 W. Growlush also manufactures high-quality industrial ballasts intended for indoor gardening use ranging from 175 to 1,500 W. Along with Australia and New Zealand, Growlush supplies international markets in North America, United Kingdom, europe, South America and South Africa. Visit an indoor gardening retail store for more information.
Galaxy Grow Amp Select-A-Watt ballasts Sunlight Supply is pleased to announce the arrival of Galaxy® Grow Amp Select-A-Watt® Ballasts. Galaxy state-of-the-art HID ballasts are manufactured to provide today’s serious grower with maximum flexibility and performance. The Galaxy Select-A-Watt is the preferred electronic ballast on the market, offering the ability to run multiple wattage lamps or dim the highest wattage (defined by model). Galaxy ballasts have an incorporated, staggered, low-current starting feature to avoid inrush problems when running multiple ballasts. They are available in 400, 600, 750, 1,000 and 1,500 W. The Galaxy brand name has a strong
reputation of reliability and performance. Grow Amp also features ultra-low RFI
broadband emissions. They are compatible with all
Sun System® branded reflectors and are distributed by JB Lighting. Visit an
indoor gardening retail store for more information.
20 Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
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YOUR GUIDE TO THIS ISSUE’S HOTTEST ITEMSAsk for them at your local indoor gardening store.
Growlush Now Distributing platinium Modular Systems in Australia and New ZealandThe future has arrived sooner than expected. Platinium Modular Systems are unique because they have the great-est versatility on the market. It is now possible to switch from one system to another in no time and at a lower cost. These modular systems enable gardeners to grow plants in separate pots filled with clay pellets. The integrated irriga-tion system distributes the nutrient solution through the clay pellets and ensures easy access to the reservoir tank with a detachable lid and a graduation that makes it possible to quickly view the nutrient solution level. The systems have the huge advantage of adapting to the various seasons. ev-ery pot may be served individually, meaning that each plant can be watered as needed. They are also detachable so they can easily be replaced. Platinium systems available through Growlush include Hydro Star, Hydro Grower, ebb & Flow, Hydro Stone, Hydro Pro and Aero Star. For more information, visit an indoor gardening retail store.
Nutrifield premium coco chips blend 50/50Nutrifield®is excited to release a product in Australia that blends coco coir with a coco chip struc-ture to deliver explosive yield and dynamic growth. The coco chips measure between 15 and 25 mm, allowing for faster rehydration. This innovative chip structure allows growers to customise air and water ratios at the root zone, which is crucial in fighting plant disease. Combining the properties of coconut fibre and pith, Coco Chips Blend 50/50 offers roots a larger open-pore area, allowing roots to breathe better and encouraging stronger root structure and better drainage. Unused nutrient solutions are easily flushed away, while moisture retention abilities and faster nutrient uptake is upheld. The chips also provide better cation exchange capacity. The smaller chip size also allows for greater insulation against excessive heat or humidity, offering growers peace of mind that root zones will be cooler than the atmospheric conditions surrounding them. Nutrifield Premium Coco Chips Blend 50/50 is designed for gardeners who desire the ultimate nourishing environment and greater results. Visit a specialty garden centre for more information.
Nutrifield premium coco perlite blend 70/30By combining coco and perlite, Nutrifield® has brought together two mediums that will improve plants and yields by increasing the oxygen levels within the root zone. Coco coir is known for its superior water-holding capabilities, while perlite’s drainage properties are second to none. Boast-ing high thermal insulation protection, Nutrifield Premium Coco Perlite Blend 70/30 is a vital ingredient for growers facing hot weather and humidity. The open-pore structure keeps the root zone cooler, which means there is more oxygen available to the roots, increasing the AFP to around 45%. By combining specific ratios of RHP-certified organic coco and perlite, Nutrifield has improved the physical properties of the coco, reducing the possibility of over-watering and saturation while maintaining essential water retention abilities. The grower is now totally in charge of watering and wettability while the media offers better drainage to rid root zones of unused nutrients. Nutrifield Premium Coco Perlite Blend 70/30 promotes a dynamic growing environment for serious growers who expect explosive results. Visit your favourite garden centre for more information.
Humiboosta Humiboosta is formulated using humic and fulvic acids to improve nutrient solubility. This ensures maximum nutrient availability when plants need it the most. Additional macronutrient forms of these organic acids ensure that background nutrient levels are replenished throughout all stages of plant development. These nutrients include calcium, magnesium and potassium. Humiboosta assists in maintaining health in the rhizosphere while encouraging beneficial microbes, especially when growing in coco, peat and soil. Humic and fulvic acid are known for their ability to bind to nutrients, making them more absorbable. Humiboosta is suitable for all systems, including run-to-waste and re-circulating systems, and can be used through all stages of plant growth and flower development. Visit an indoor garden retail shop for more information.
Galaxy Digital logic ballastsGalaxy® Digital Logic™ Ballasts are dimmable, select-wattage ballasts with multiple modes of operation,
including a lamp Turbo Charge® feature. Ballasts come with pre-programmed cycle settings and digital timer integration. The optional remote control can be used for integrated timer programming and
operation. A low-current, staggered ignition delay feature eliminates circuit inrush overload and protects lamps for increased lumen maintenance. Ballasts have a built-in, self-diagnostic feature: the internal ballast programming will protect the unit in the instance of open circuit, short circuit, over/under voltage or high temperature exposure. Galaxy Digital Logic Ballasts are designed with
optimised, non-air-cooled aluminum housing. An included hour meter allows users to manage lamp and ballast age for maximum performance. Dual, universal lamp cord receptacles are compatible with Sun System® reflectors and other brands. Ballasts also come with an LeD digital display. Visit an indoor garden retail store for more information.
Digimax DE lampNow available in Australia through Sunlight Supply, the Digimax 1,000-W Double ended HPS Horticulture Lamp is specifically designed for operation with high-frequency electronic ballasts. The Digimax De's unique T32.5 double-ended lamp construction allows for maximum optical efficiency and improved ignition behavior. It has a connection wire at each end of the lamp, eliminating the need for a frame wire inside the lamp. The absence of frame wire eliminates any shadows in the light beam. Digimax De lamps have an improved light spectrum, improved PAR maintenance and a quicker warm up time/reduced restrike time. Double-ended lamp-specific locking sockets ensure optimal lamp placement and support within the reflector. Please use caution and follow lamp installation instructions included with Sunlight Supply-specific De reflectors. The jacket of this double-ended lamp is made from quartz glass—do not handle with bare hands. The lamp is packaged in a protective keepsake tin box and comes with a one-year warranty. Visit an indoor garden retail store for more information.
22 Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
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biobizz Nutrients from Growlush The Biobizz organic range of nutrients and additives, now available in Australia and New Zealand through Growlush, has become popular in recent years partly because it is a complete package of products that produces consistently good results. Biobizz has put a lot of time and effort into not only providing an excellent, top-grade organic nutrient range, but it has also tried hard to meet many organic certification criteria around the world, giving this product line strong, international organic credentials. This range of feeds and additives contain only natural ingredients prepared and produced within recognised organic production method guidelines. It is a complete suite of growing products ranging from grow media to grow and bloom feeds. Also included
is Alg-A-Mic vitality booster, TopMax Bloom Stimulant, Root Juice root zone booster, Fish
Mix and Coco Mix. These products are easy to use,
affordably priced and provide excellent results. Visit an indoor gardening retail store for more information.
Sea EssentialsSea essentials is formulated using a unique blend of sea plants, including kelp, seaweed and sea grass, each chosen for its unique plant health promoting properties and micronutrient content. Sea essentials promotes flowering and fruit development. Sea plants are known for their high amino acid and natural stimulant content. The naturally occurring compounds also help promote nutrient uptake and healthy roots in the rhizosphere while encouraging beneficial microbes. Sea essentials is also low in sodium compared to other products derived from sea plants. The product contains organically bound trace elements and iodine, which is beneficial to human health. Sea essentials can be used through all stages of plant growth and flower development. It is suitable for all run-to-waste and re-circulating systems. For more information, visit an indoor garden retail store.
Hydro is the way of the future—when are YOU going to get started?
Learn to Garden Growing Systems for Beginners
by Matt Geschke
Hydro is the way of the future—when are YOU going to get started?
24 Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
By now you have probably seen images in the mainstream media referencing food security issues in some parts of the world. Images beamed from afar have indicated how bad the food shortages can be. It almost induces a sort of helplessness, but there are solutions and they start close to home. Simply put, it’s time for a new agricultural revolution. Indoor
growing is the way of the future. Successful indoor gardens can easily produce seven to 10 times more food than a tradi-tionally farmed plot of the same size outdoors and hydroponic crops are not susceptible to the kinds of disasters that so often befall traditional farmers. Indoor gardening might be our only viable option for the future and when done correctly requires little pesticide or herbicide use, can be practiced organically and inexpensively and can pro-vide you, your family and possibly even your neighbours with a nutrient-dense variety of fresh and healthy food all year-round.
This may sound like a utopian solution to a real and serious prob-lem and you might instinctively assume there must some sort of catch. Well, there is. Hydroponic gardening is not easy and it requires a fundamental knowledge of the plants you intend to cultivate and a basic knowledge of the various growing systems and how they function. Finally, it is important to be realistic and fully understand both the financial costs and the time commitment it takes to have a successful indoor garden. So, where do we start?
“ it is important to be realistic and fully understand both the financial costs and the time commitment it takes to have a successful indoor garden.”
Whether you call them mini-systems, beginner gardens or starter kits, basic hydroponic systems are good ways to figure out whether hydroponic gardening is a viable option before invest-ing your life savings on a bunch of gadgets promising astonish-ing results. By starting with a basic set-up, a novice hydroponic gardener will be able to learn the fundamentals of water cul-ture, the effects pH and reservoir temperature have on nutrient solution efficacy, how environmental variables like humidity and temperature can accelerate or slow growth and how supplemen-tal lighting can increase overall yield and quality.
The best beginner systems in my opinion are those that are simply designed and easily expandable, either through DIY modifications or through the purchase of professionally manufactured modules. This approach ensures that the new gardener will not be overwhelmed by the complexity of the system while allaying any concerns they may have regarding growing out of the system they just purchased. Basic systems come in a myriad of designs, suitable for
cultivating a wide variety of crops. You should buy the best system that you can afford and sacrifice size for quality every time because indoor gardening is a hobby that by nature is hard on equipment. Shoddy equipment fails and if you have already exhausted your shoestring budget on going as big as possible, you’ll be in trouble if something goes wrong. Be patient and start small. Modest operations using high-quality equipment will ensure better results than larger, poorly con-structed spaces, with none of the headaches and disappoint-ment. Smaller spaces are easier to maintain and clean and smaller plant numbers generally result in a healthier garden and the opportunity to spend more time with each plant.
Be knowledgeable and well read. Try to know something about indoor growing before you get to the grow shop and you’re much more likely to come home with what you need. You’ll save yourself and the hydro employee trying to assist you a lot of time.Another tip is simpler is better. To clarify, I mean that the
best solution is generally the one with the fewest compli-cations. In fact, I recommend six plants or less to start, which will allow you to really get to know each plant you are growing. This level of interaction with your garden is essential in the beginning.
You might be in a hurry to get started now that you’ve decided to give indoor gardening a go, but don’t rush it. You can be successful with nearly any type of system as long as you understand the fundamentals of hydroponics. Transitioning slowly into an indoor garden has several advantages over simply jumping in with both feet. By transitioning slowly from traditional soil agriculture to an intermediate system—like a top-drip, perlite-based garden or a coir-based flood and drain operation—your likelihood of success will be significantly greater.
Eventually you’ll have done some reading and cleared a space in your home and you’ll be ready to think about which system to get started with. It is important for new gardeners to become informed on the variety of systems available to determine which best matches their growing style. Here’s some information on a few of the systems available, along with some pros and cons about each one.
Top drip Top drip systems are great transition gardens and should be strongly considered as a choice for any gardener on a budget, or anyone just getting started. All you need is a handful of 19-L buckets, about 110 L of the medium of your choice, 9 to 12 m of 1.3-cm irrigation line, 10 or so emit-ter stakes, 8 m of 0.3-cm spaghetti line, a water reservoir, a fountain pump, a timer, a drill and a free afternoon. There are countless permutations of this system and most allow for a wide variety of different media options, including per-lite, hydroton, coir, soilless mix, hygromite and stonewool. These systems are readily available as kits from a variety of suppliers, but can also be easily constructed from materials obtained from your local hardware store. The benefits are that they are inexpensive to construct, simple in design and can be used to grow nearly any kind of crop. Unfortunately, top drip systems are often cited as being damaging to the surrounding environment as the runoff is rarely treated before it flows back into the ecosystem, sometimes leading to eutrophic conditions and a disruption of native flora and fauna. One could also argue that other than the automa-tion of the watering there are actually limited benefits over traditional soil gardening. Top drip systems are also excep-tionally inefficient with regards to nutrient conservation—it is not uncommon for a drain-to-waste garden to consume 30 to 50% more nutrients than a similar sized recirculating garden and as much as 70% more than a properly function-ing, recirculating deep water culture system.
Deep Water Culture Deep water culture, or DWC, systems are another good choice for beginners or those on a budget and can range from simple all-inclusive one-tote, one-site designs to elabo-rate, hyper-oxygenated recirculating systems. All you really need to build a deep water culture system is a few inexpen-sive components and the medium of your choice. Try to keep the reservoir consistently in the 22 to 23°C range for optimal results, as increases in temperature will result in dramatic decreases in dissolved oxygen levels, and low dis-solved oxygen levels and warm water will create the perfect environment for pathogenic anaerobic bacteria to prolif-erate, putting your plants at increased risk for root-borne diseases. The benefits of this system are that it can be built to be as simple or as elaborate as you wish and can be tailored to fit any space. It is capable of growing nearly any crop from greens to gourds and is incredibly stingy with nutrients, using up to 70% less than a similar sized top drip system.
Finally, when dialed in, these systems consistently produce huge harvests and often do so on a shortened cycle. The drawbacks to DWC gardens are few, but the systems are heavy so they tend to perform well on sealed concrete slab floors, which are structurally solid and inherently cool. The other major problem DWC gardeners face is leaks. Left unchecked they can be devastating, with catastrophic failures emptying a system in seconds. Does your homeowner’s insurance cover hydroponically induced flooding?
learn to garden
“top drip systems are great transition gardens and should be strongly considered as a choice for any gardener on a budget.”
28 Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
Flood and Drain Flood and drain systems have been around a long time. Ever since the first river flooded onto the first flood plain, natu-ral flood and drain systems have been growing plants and doing it well. High-quality flood and drain bucket systems are available from a variety of reputable suppliers and flood table reservoir combinations can be found in many hydro shops. These systems address the wasteful nature of top drip systems and are capable of saving up to 50% by only flooding when necessary and returning the nutrient solution to the reser-voir between cycles. In addition, they offer the same media-buffering effects seen with top drip systems.
The cons of flood and drain operations can be summarised in two words: timers and floats. Flood and drain bucket systems rely on timers and float valves to execute the tasks of flooding and draining throughout the day, but as the mechanical parts involved are pretty reliable, these systems are capable of turning out incredible results cycle after cycle.
“ever since the first river flooded onto the first flood plain, natural flood and drain systems have been growing plants and doing it well.”
Hybrid Systems Relatively new to the market, hybrid systems combine two or more systems into one design, allowing for supreme ver-satility and efficiency. Since these systems are relatively new, long-term efficacy data is not yet available. Most products claim they are optimised for all stages of growth as some plants have been documented to respond more favourably to one irrigation method or another, depending on the stage of the plant’s development. Although they are new and relatively unproven, it is easy to see why these designs may just be the answer for beginners and budget gardeners alike. Many of these designs could be recreated by the gar-dener, but it would require a fair degree of skill and is not recommended for the novice. However, if you are a budget gardener and you play engineer in your tool shed, this may be right up your alley!
SUMMING IT ALL UP In the end, it is less about the system and more about the individual. It is important to pick a system you are comfort-able with. Your choice should fit comfortably within your budget (or slightly less), allowing for some modifications or upgrades along the way if necessary. Make certain the system you choose can grow the crops you intend to grow. I know it sounds stupid, but you would be amazed at how many new gardeners are surprised at the extreme difficulty they seem to be having growing sunflowers to maturity in their indoor gardens. Remember, whatever system you choose and what-ever you choose to grow, you are actively participating in a movement that may just change the world.
29Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
101:Hydroponic Gardeners’ Best Friends
As we make our gardens more pleasing to ourselves, we are also making them more appetising to a stream of hungry pests. So, what is a gardener to do? In a word: ladybirds.
by Susan Eitel
30 Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
There is nothing quite as exhilarating as tending a garden. You get to witness your physical, financial and emotional investment flourish beyond expectation. However, as we make our gardens more pleasing to ourselves, we in turn make them more appetising to a seemingly endless parade of pests. Insects see our hard work as their free lunch. Who can blame them? A healthy garden is nature’s dinner bell. Still, there is nothing quite as deflating as witnessing your investment become withered and brown, decimated by those dream-sucking insects. What is a gardener to do? Well, not all
insects are created equal in the garden, and ladybirds are the answer to that question.A ladybird is not a bug at all. It is a beetle, assigned to the
beetle family, Coccinellidae, which is why you will some-times encounter the names lady beetle and ladybird beetle. Another term that you will hear them called is a beneficial insect. A beneficial insect describes any number of different bugs or beetles that feed upon other insects. Beneficials feast only upon the pest insects that do much of the harm to our gardens while leaving the plants untouched for the gardener. In other words, when nature gave us lemons in the form of pests, she also gave us lemonade in the form of ladybirds. A rising interest in organic gardening, as well as increas-
ing pressures to ban chemical controls, is leading more gardeners away from using pesticides as the lone remedy for insect damage. Ladybirds are a general predator and will eat pretty much any soft-bodied prey that crosses their path—spider mites, thrips, white flies, mealy bugs and the scale and the eggs of all these predators are common sources of food. They especially like aphids and can consume thousands of these pests per week. It is because of these attributes that breeding ladybirds in indoor and outdoor gardens has become quite popular.It’s worthwhile to learn a bit about the ladybird in order to
better understand its role in pest management. Coccinellidae is the biggest family of the beetle superfamily Cucujoidea with about 6,000 species classified in 370 genera worldwide.
There are 57 genera and about 500 species in Australia with about half of them yet undescribed. The variety used for indoor gardens is the Hippodamia convergens. There are four stages of metamorphosis for this beetle: egg, larva, pupa and adult. Female adults can each lay up to 1,000 white or yellow eggs in clusters on the undersides of leaves. Eggs hatch within four days and start eating immediately. Larvae are black and orange like their adult versions, although they resemble spiny alligators at this stage. The larvae stay on the plant, feeding on pests until pupation. Three to 12 days after they pupate, an adult emerges to start the cycle all over again. Knowing and recognising these stages is necessary if you hope to use beneficials to their best advantage. The majority of garden beetles are from insectaries (or, bug
laboratories). Ladybirds harvested from the wild can carry parasites or disease and should be avoided, so check with your supplier to make sure any beneficial insect you purchase is indigenous to your area and government approved. Ladybirds can be an inexpensive form of pest control. Prices
vary between suppliers, but in many cases, beneficial insects can be less expensive than pesticides in both commercial and non-commercial applications. A thousand beetles would be enough to effectively treat an area of approximately 52 m². Indoor breeding of beneficial insects requires a constant
food source both before and after their natural prey has been exhausted. Beneficial insect food is available to provide your Ladybirds with that year-round supply. The food—gen-erally a powdered pollen, nectar and protein mixture that is combined with water at the time of application—is capable of sustaining beetles at a healthy vigour until their natural prey becomes available. The powder is inexpensive and it is easily stored due to a long shelf-life.
Without question, ladybirds can be an asset to the gardener and the garden. Like most tools, however, improper use can offer poor results. Always remember: there are no silver bul-lets. Gardening relies as much on good science as it does on good craftsmanship. It is the complexities of natural systems that make gardens possible and pest management challeng-ing, but we can’t have one without the other.
Ladybird larvae look like spiny alligators. They feed on pests until pupation.
A thousand ladybird beetles is enough to treat 51 sq. m.
ingsThe process of cloning a plant by taking a cutting can be extremely useful, allowing you to continue growing exact genetic replicas of your favourite plants. Matt LeBannister shares what you need to know to be a confident and successful cutting expert.
by matt lebannister
A Simple Guide
Cu Plant
It’s easy to see that genetics are an extremely important factor in the human story—after all, it is our genes that determine to a large extent what type of people we will be. Whether we will be tall or short, skinny or fat, disease resistant or susceptible to infection, it’s all in our genes. This doesn’t just apply to humans, though. It applies to all life on Earth, including the plants we grow. So when we first grow a type of tomato or pepper that we really like, it is only natural to want to hold onto that plant and its good traits. The best way to ensure that your next generation of plants has the same favourable qualities is to take a cut-ting of that plant, thus creating an exact genetic replica, or clone. Some plants will take to this process better than others, but by following some simple instructions you can limit your failures and become something of a cutting expert.
Selecting a Mother PlantMaking clones from plant cuttings is a method of asexual propagation. The cutting is taken from what is commonly referred to as a mother plant. A cutting will be genetically iden-tical to the mother plant and will be the same as the parent as long as the environmental conditions are the same. Your best, most vigorous plants should be selected as mother plants, as their vitality will then be passed onto the cuttings. The mother plant should be healthy and at least one or two months old and should be kept in a constant vegetative state.Your mother plant’s only purpose is for taking cuttings. To
avoid contaminating your mother plant with pest insects or disease, keep it isolated from the rest of your plants—if your mother plant was to become infected with a disease, all sub-sequent cuttings would be infected and therefore useless.
Making the CutWhichever cutting tool you use, whether it’s a scalpel, a rasor, scissors or some other instrument, it must be sterile, because making a cut can introduce disease to your plant through the open wound. Find a healthy branch with four to six leaves on it and, using the sterile cutting tool, sever the branch at a 45-degree angle directly below the bottom two leaves. These lower two leaves can now be removed from the cutting, allowing more of the freshly cut surface area to be exposed to your rooting hormones and medium. The severed end of the cutting should then be stuck into your chosen medium about 2.5-cm deep. Do this quickly, as air can get trapped in the freshly cut stem of the cutting and this could cause it to wilt and die.
Rooting HormonesWhen a cutting is taken from a plant, stem cells that were used to grow leaves and branches must then begin to grow roots instead. Plants achieve this by the stem cells located at the cut becoming undifferentiated cells, eventually trans-forming into root cells. Root-inducing hormones are already present in plants, but many gardeners believe that by dip-ping the severed end of the cutting into a rooting compound that contains some root-inducing hormones, the rate at which the roots will develop will be accelerated.Rooting compounds come in powder, gel and liquid forms
and are to be applied to the severed end of the cutting right after the cut has been made, prior to it being inserted into the growing medium. Liquid and gel types are most common, as the powdered versions are easy to over apply and too much rooting hormone solution can actually stunt the development
of new root growth. The three most common rooting hor-mones found in commercially available rooting compounds are napthalenaecatic acid (NAA), indolebutyric acid (IBA) and 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4DPA).
Growing MediaThere are many different types of growing media available to the indoor gardener and each has its own advantages and disadvantages:
Rockwool is popular for use with cuttings. This inert medium with excellent water and oxygen-retaining proper-ties is spun from heated rock in a similar style to cotton candy. Insects that lay eggs in growing media are less likely to lay their eggs in rockwool and root-borne insects are also less likely to be found in it. Rockwool can come in a flat of 100 starter cubes, which are easily transplanted into larger cubes suitable for hydroponic systems.
Coco coir is made from shredded coconut husks. It is totally inert, suitable for rooting cuttings and is often available in starter packs ideal for propagating cuttings.
Soil and soilless mixes are not inert and can contain patho-gens harmful to plants. To sterilise your soil or soilless mix-ture you can bake the medium in your oven—just place the necessary amount of mix into a large baking tray and bake in the oven at 250°C for 15 minutes. Allow the mix to cool before placing your cuttings in it.
“ A cutting will be genetically identical to the mother plant and will be the same as the parent as long as the environmental conditions are the same.”
“ when A cutting is taken from a plant, stem cells that were used to grow leaves and branches must then begin to grow roots instead.”
plant cuttings
36 Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
“AppropriAte humidity levels are important for cuttings to root successfully.”
Aeroponics is the medium of the future for cuttings. There are many different aeroponic cutting propagators on the market and they all work on the same principal: the severed end of the cutting is suspended in the air where it is misted by a fine spray of water. Roots will eventually grow into the humid, misty air and can then be transplanted into a larger aeroponic system. This technique is also ideal for starting cuttings that are destined for nutrient film technique hydroponic systems. Many people are achieving excellent results with these methods.
LightingLighting is vital in all stages of plant development and cut-tings are no different. Cuttings need 18 to 24 hours of light if they are to root properly, but they must not receive light that is too intense. Transpiration is the process through which water is evaporated through the leaves and in turn water is sucked in through the roots. Without fully developed roots, plant cuttings can easily dry out. Using fluorescent light bulbs at this stage of growth is wise because they are not intense enough to damage fragile cuttings.
HumidityAppropriate humidity levels are important for cuttings to root successfully. High humidity levels from 90 to 100% slow down transpiration and help keep cuttings from drying out. High humidity levels also help to promote root growth. Humidity domes (clear plastic covers placed over your cuttings, allowing light in and keeping the humidity from escaping) are excellent tools to help maintain ideal humid-ity levels. With high humidity levels there is always a risk of developing moulds and fungi, so to help prevent this, as well as to toughen up your cuttings, remove the humidity dome from the cuttings for 10 to 20 minutes each day.
Air and Root Zone TemperatureCuttings will root faster and with higher success rates when the root zone and air temperatures are kept within a certain range. They do best when the air temperature is between 20°C and 30°C. Outside of this range and root growth will be stunted or stopped altogether. The root zone temperature should actually be five degrees warmer than the ambient air temperature to promote root growth. Heating pads with thermostats, available at any quality hydro shop, can be placed below the cutting tray for controlled root zone heating.
TransplantingAfter cuttings have been taken they must be given ade-quate time to grow roots before they are transplanted into larger planter pots or into a hydroponic or aeroponic system. Do not transplant cuttings until there is dense root growth. This can be determined by checking under-neath rockwool flats or by gently coaxing the root ball out of the container. Transplanting can be a stressful process for the plant—as stressful as taking the cutting in the first place—so always handle roots and cuttings with care and do whatever it takes to ensure the plant is damaged as little as possible during transplanting.The process of cloning a plant by taking a cutting can be
extremely useful, allowing you to continue growing exact genetic replicas of your favourite plants. It may seem like a complicated process, but with the right knowledge and expe-rience there is no reason it has to be a difficult one, either for you or your plants!
37Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
The Agrarian Kitchen sits on five acres of lush land in Tasmania and boasts two poly tunnels, veggie and herb gar-dens, orchards and many ingenious ideas to keep the organ-ics in their growing rolling nicely along.
TUNNELSInitially, Rodney built a single poly tunnel with the intention of protecting his seedlings, but he found that it made such a big difference in the growth and yield of the produce that they built a second tunnel. Rodney is passionate about eating fresh produce that is grown in-season, and finds these poly tunnels invaluable for extending the outdoor growing season, especially in Tasmania where the climate is so unpredictable. Each tunnel is 4.5-m across and 20-m long and, for some extra ground cover, Rodney integrates smaller hoops that can be placed on any plant anywhere on the farm. These clever
Nestled in a chilly Tasmanian valley is the village of Lachlan, where, if you focus your gaze through the hills and trees you’ll discover a schoolhouse built in the 1800s that Rodney Dunn and wife Severine Demanet have transformed into a sustainable farm-based cooking school. Rodney shares with maximum yield a few of their tips for growing success.
agrarian kitchen the
little hoops cover up to another 15 m, offering warmth and protection for Rodney’s delicate plants in Tasmania’s often cruel, cold climate.
WHAT’S GROWINGThe Agrarian Kitchen is growing a wide variety of fruit, vegetables and herbs. Even within the realms of everyday fresh food varieties, Rodney and his gardeners have managed to source and grow strange, distant cousins from faraway lands—things like wasabi, horseradish, alpine strawberries, five kinds of corn, an exotic range of herbal teas, caraway, salad burnet, orange-peel thyme, cardoon and Mexican hyssop, not to mention the standard produce we know and love: potatoes, peas, beans, chillies (a must in the poly tun-nels), eggplants, artichokes, broad beans, 60 varieties of herbs, berries galore and a range of nuts. They even upkeep hops and brew their own beer.Everything the Agrarian Kitchen grows is from seed and the
growers incorporate new seed trails into everyday farming life. And, when varieties pop up that the growers really like, they save the seeds for the next year. This way, if a variety fails, they haven’t put all their eggs in one basket and it’s not a great loss. “People will tell you that certain things won’t grow very well in your area, but you can’t just take their word
From left to right: Rodney Dunn, Lee Farrell and Jethro Havenhand make up a portion of the Agrarain Kitchen team.
by Raquel Neofit
38 Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
GROWERS KNOWGROWERS KNOW
on that,” Rodney says. “So, we trial a small amount and if it fails, well, you know, nothing ventured, nothing gained. And if we get something from it, well, that’s great!”When it comes to growing difficult produce, Rodney says
it all comes back to the seasons, especially in Tasmania. “You can struggle with the seasons down here, sometimes we wonder if we’ve even had a summer at all; it can just drift in and out. You can get a warm day and then you can get three or four cold ones.”To protect yourself against unpredictable climates, Rodney
recommends planting lots of different things, and then you will always get something at the end. “Cover yourself by plant-ing smaller amounts of lots of different things so that if one variety fails, you have other produce to fall back on.”
PEST CONTROLThe Agrarian Kitchen’s property is completely natural and organic and the operators think of it as one giant worm farm. Everything they do is done with the soil in mind. “As far as pest control and fertilisation of the garden go, we use absolutely zero pesticides and all our fertilisation is by natural methods, whether we are using composted tea that we make up ourselves or growing green manure crops. We rotate animals over the spaces to try to improve the fertility of the soil. Whether its pigs or chickens, every-thing is done with the soil in mind and keeping the soil healthy,” Rodney says. Because the growers grow such a wide diversity of plants,
they can’t spray anything. “Around here, you’ll find lots of frogs and things and the whole gamut of the natural system is still intact, because we haven’t sprayed pesti-cides and killed off all the natural predators, which is very important. If we sprayed pesticides, we’d kill off all the spiders, which would in turn mean that we might get an influx of aphids or something. Occasionally we might notice there are a lot of slugs around, but in the balance of things it’s nothing, it will even back out again. We’ve also put quails in the tunnels and they clean it up without scratching the ground up too much or eating the plants. If you put chickens in, they will destroy the environment, but the quails won’t. They’ll just control the insects and clean it up a little bit.”
THE FUTUREEventually, Rodney says the Agrarian Kitchen would love to
build some hot greenhouses so they can have the stability to grow more hot-climate crops that really can’t handle the temperature variances of the Tasmanian climate.For anyone considering making
the move to acquiring more land and starting a garden, Rodney says, do it while you’re young! “There are loads of people who want to make this kind of move, who are fed-up living in the city, but it’s a difficult thing to do when, by human nature, we are comfortable where we are. It’s a long process; you just have to bite
the bullet and do it.”
“If careful notes are taken over a period of years, plants that
perform well can be repeated.”
Above: Rodney Dunn. Photo by Luke Burgess.Right: Rodney Dunn’s book The Agrarian Kitchen published by Penguin Lantern showcases the best of Tasmanian-grown produce and inspires readers to eat what is seasonally abundant.
39Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
GROWERS KNOW
R'SSOFnot that Hard!by Jennifer Casey
Softened water is one of those things you either love or hate, but regardless of which camp you’re in, knowing a little bit about water softener can help you better evaluate your water needs. The bottom line is that if you have hard water, you should probably get a softener.
40 Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
Softened water is a divisive issue. Proponents love the clean bathroom fixtures, superior lather of soap and laundry detergent and streak-free windows. Haters primarily dislike that slimy feeling softened water leaves on the skin, and the added salt, which requires a point-of-use filter for drinking water and plants. Regardless of which camp you’re in, know-ing a little bit about water softeners can help you make an informed decision when evaluating your water needs.
Softeners look a little like an oxygen tank, are available in several sizes and can use either sodium chloride (salt) or potassium chloride as a medium. They work by exchanging the hardness (that is, minerals) in water for either sodium or potassium using cationic exchange. Hardness is measured in grains. The more grains of hardness present in the water, the higher the salt or potassium content of the softened water. Gardeners who use a reverse osmosis (RO) filter to prevent nutrient lockout of their plants might want to add a softener before their system to reduce hardness and help extend the life of their RO system.
work by exchanging the hardness (minerals) for either sodium or
potassium using cationic exchange.”
It All Comes Out in the WashSoft water is so named because it isn’t hard. In research-ing this article, I found that years ago, when people did their laundry by hand, they found that heavily mineralised water made it hard to wash clothes—hence, hard water. Apparently, their solution was to collect rainwater to wash with, which was referred to as soft. This might seem like a lot of trouble to go to for the sake of washing a few dirty clothes, but there are university studies that show clothes washed in hard water wore out 15 times faster than those washed in softened water. This statistic is attributed to the way that suspended minerals simply rub on clothing fibres and wear them out, which seems somewhat obvious.Apparently, detergent is another factor. Laundry soap was
originally highly alkaline, which helped to create a water environment in which dirt was easily released. As people got tired of saving rainwater for their laundry, their laundry soap wasn’t working well to wash their clothes. Soap-based cleaners combine with hard water to create what is called soap curd. This unappealing substance is a combination of soap and hard-water minerals, and is what ends up coating your shower door, bathroom fixtures, etc. It’s also hard on fabrics. Enter detergent. Detergent was devel-oped as a petroleum product and dissolves nicely in hard water. This is helpful when doing laundry, but not so helpful for the planet.
Many people are doing their best
to avoid petroleum products whenever possible, and synthetic detergents are not
nearly as biodegradable as their soapy predecessors. If you cringe at the price of clothes these days,
remember that wearing out those skinny jeans 15 times faster can really add up. As innocuous as doing laundry might seem, the effects of hard water can impede the process of cleaning your
clothing, towels and linens, which costs money. Although synthetic detergent mitigates some of the soap curd associated with laundering in hard water, the best solution is to simply use a water softener. Once used, a return to traditional laundry soap will help keep your clothes clean and the planet happy, or
synthetic detergents can be used in much smaller amounts than before, saving more
money. Hot water use will decrease, as the soap will do an excellent job in cool water, saving on
energy costs. Additionally, using a water softener ensures that your skin will no longer be a reposi-tory for soap curd residue.
Slippery = Clean?Soap curd is also responsible for that squeaky clean feeling on skin and hair—maybe. The lack of squeak, the feeling that maybe the soap hasn’t rinsed entirely off, is one of the most controversial effects of softeners. According to some, the slip-pery feeling skin gets in softened water is a result of the ionic exchange that occurs when mineral content is exchanged for sodium or potassium (depending on which media is used in the softener) and the resulting ions keep the soap from stick-ing to the water and getting rinsed off. Sounds pretty legit, but check out the Internet for any water softening company and the explanation changes. These companies claim that the slippery feeling is actually the way that clean skin feels without the rubbery squeak of soap curd. Both sides acknowledge that since soap works much better in soft water, people sometimes use the levels they used in hard water—much more than is necessary in soft water. It’s a tough claim to parse, as rinsing a soapy sink in softened water leaves no hint of curdy ring, which points to superior rinsing ability and the claim of the makers of softeners. Then again, rinsing in naturally soft water like rain-water or water softened by other means like RO, both of which wouldn’t contain added sodium or potassium, doesn’t seem to cause any sort of slimy skin-feel, regardless of soap.
I failed to find any third-party study that actually measured soap residue left after a softened water rinse verses a hard water rinse. Anecdotally, some users of softeners rave about the improved condition of skin and hair without soap or mineral residue when using a softener, while others bemoan the drying effects of softened water on their person. When it
comes to the skin/hair debate, it might just be a matter of preference. Personally, I believe it might very well be
the way that the sodium/potassium ions feel on the skin, not necessarily that soap is being left behind.
But, How Does it Taste?There are some softener companies that claim
that unless one is on a severely salt-restricted diet, the added salt in softened water isn’t a health risk,
with an average of about 0.57 g of added sodium per 3.79 L of water. While this amount is about one-fifth of the sodium in skim milk, I’d be more concerned with taste. In my opinion, the drinking water that tastes the best is water that has been filtered using RO to take 96 to 99% of all contaminants out, and then treated with a remineralising post filter to add back about 30 to 50 ppm of calcium carbonate for that clean, crisp taste. Drinking water that has been demineralised
(whether by an ion exchange softener or RO) is another source of controversy, some claiming that it strips the body of its own minerals, and others pointing to the fact that many dis-solved minerals on water are too large to be absorbed by the body. Using a remineralis-ing post filter is an easy solution that adds minerals your body can use and allows RO to remove many other harmful contaminants. An added benefit of using a softener is that it acts as excellent pre-filtration for a RO drinking water or a plant water system, preserving expensive RO membranes and saving you money!
“when people did their laundry by hand, they found that heavily mineralised water made it hard to wash clothes—hence, hard water.”
What About the Plants?Let’s be clear: sodium chloride-softened water should never be given to your plants, especially in a hydroponic garden, as plants are sensitive to levels of sodium. Some outdoor gardeners who have a whole-house softener might choose to use potassium chloride media, as the relatively low levels found in softened water are not generally harmful for lawns and other non-sensitive plants. However, hydroponic gardens can also be disrupted by excessive potassium.
A softener can benefit your plants in much the same way it can benefit your drinking water—as a pre-filter for RO. Reverse osmosis has become the gold-standard of water treat-ment in hydroponics, removing blocky, unusable minerals, heavy metals, volatile organic compounds and a host of other toxic contaminants and preventing nutrient lockout. The most expensive parts of an RO filter are the membranes, and those with large gardens using lots of water know that replac-ing those membranes can add up. Incidentally, the hardness that prompts many gardeners to purchase an RO system is the same hardness that can prematurely clog the RO mem-branes. Since softeners exchange that damaging hardness for sodium or potassium chloride, the membrane’s job is much easier. Both sodium chloride and potassium chloride are easily removed by RO membranes, which will remove 99% of sodium or potassium chloride.
Bottom LineThe bottom line is that if you have hard water, you should probably get a softener. Whether or not you use the soft-ened water for your whole house, for your shower or just to preserve your RO membranes in the greenhouse is a matter of preference. The money it can save you in the laundry room and the garden is undeniable.
“ sodiUm-chloride softened water should never be given to your plants, especially in a hydroponic garden, as plants are very sensitive to levels of sodium.”
soft water’s not that hard
46 Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
47Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
Cheap and Easy Starts:
How to Germinate Seeds at Home by heather rhoades
Buying plants is expensive, but if you learn how to germinate seeds,
you’ll never have to worry about spending
too much for plant starts again.
48 Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
Many people will tell you that one of the most expensive parts of gardening is buying the plants. The best way to avoid this problem is to simply grow your own plants from seeds. Once you learn how to germinate seeds, you will always be able to have cheap plants. It is easy to get started with cheap seed starting.
How to Germinate SeedsStart with seeds that are less than two years old, a soilless seed starting medium of some kind and a container that can help hold moisture in. A soilless seed starting medium will ensure that the seeds and seedlings are not killed by too much salt or salinity (frequently found in soil or even regular soilless mixes). The soilless seed starting medium can be an actual soilless seed starting mix from your local nursery, or a folded paper towel. If you choose to use a paper towel, you will need to move the ger-minated seeds to soil or another growing medium after they have sprouted. The container you select should hold in moisture.
A plastic container is ideal for this. Some people might use a Tupperware container while others might use a Ziploc bag. The next step is to dampen (but do not soak) the soilless seed starting medium and place it in the container. This will ensure that the seeds continuously receive the appropriate amount of moisture.Now, find a warm place to put your seeds. Warmth
is another important factor that affects seed ger-mination. Many people find that the top of their refrigerator is ideal, but you can use a heating pad
“the most common factors that affect seed germination are moisture, salinity and heat.”
set very low or even the top of your TV, anywhere that has a very low, steady heat. You should always keep your seed germination container out of direct sunlight, even if the package specifies they need sun to germinate. If you need the sunlight, place in indirect light. Check your seeds often to see if they have sprouted.
Germination time for seeds varies and should be marked on the packet. Once they have sprouted, vent the container by opening it a little bit. If using a paper towel, move the seedlings to proper soil. Otherwise, transplant seedlings when they have two true leaves.
Factors That Affect Seed GerminationThe factors that affect seed germination vary from plant species to species, but there are a few that are standard. The most common factors that affect seed germination are moisture, salinity and heat. If the seeds you are growing are not germinated in what is considered a standard way, the seed packet will state this in the directions. Contrary to popular belief on how to germinate
seeds, sunlight is not a standard factor that influences seed germination (unless otherwise stated on the seed packet). In fact, sunlight can do more harm than good as it might overheat the seeds and seedlings and kill them.
Now that you know how to germinate seeds, you can grow your own cheap plants!
49Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
CARBON DIOXIDE ENRICHMENT FOR INDOOR
GARDENING IS NOTHING NEW, BUT THESE
DAYS MORE GROWERS ARE LOOKING FOR LOWER-COST
ALTERNATIVES TO PROVIDE WHAT MIGHT BE THE DIFFERENCE
BETWEEN LIFE AND DEATH IN THE GROWROOM.
50 Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
Ambient CO2 levels (the percentage of carbon dioxide in the air with any enrichment) typically hover around 400 parts per million (ppm). Indoor plants can quickly convert this CO2 through photosynthesis, depleting what’s naturally available. When levels fall to around 150 ppm, the rate of plant growth quickly declines. Enriching the air in the indoor growing area to around 1,200 to 1,500 ppm can have a dramatic effect on plant growth. Growth rates typically increase by up to 30%. Stems and branches grow faster, and the cells of those areas are more densely packed. Stems can carry more weight without bend-ing or breaking. Carbon dioxide-enriched plants also have more flowering sites due to the increased branching effect.
In this discussion about carbon dioxide enrichment in the indoor garden, let us first look at some basics. Photosynthesis is the process by which plant leaves make carbohydrates. Specifically, sunlight, CO2 and water are converted into carbohydrates and oxygen by the action of chlorophyll in the plant’s chloroplasts. When plants are able to maximise the process of
photosynthesis, the result is larger plants with larger yields. Plants growing indoors under artificial light often lack enough CO2 to efficiently photosynthesise. Plants can quickly use up the available CO2 and con-vert it to oxygen. When oxygen levels rise too high, stomata on the leaf’s surface close and plant growth virtually stops. Growing areas that have limited or no air circulation can be affected even more. Lack of air movement causes CO2 that would be used by plants to become unavailable due to its distance from the leaf (usually down low in the growing area). Moving air helps solve this problem.
Adequate levels of light, water and nutrients are needed for good plant growth. Therefore, it might seem logical to assume the growth-promoting effects of indoor CO2 enrichment would be reduced when these essential resources are present in less-than-adequate amounts. In many instances, the percent-age of growth enhancement provided by indoor CO2 enrichment is even greater when these important natural resources are present in sub-par quantities. When they are in such short supply that plants cannot survive under ambient concentrations, elevated levels of CO2 often enable such vegetation to grow and successfully reproduce where they would otherwise die. One of the reasons plants are able to respond to indoor CO2 enrichment in the face of significant shortages of light, water and nutrients is that carbon dioxide-enriched plants generally have more exten-sive and active root systems, which allows them to more thoroughly explore larger volumes of soil in search of the things they need.
“ when plants are able to maximise the process of photosynthesis, the result is larger plants with larger yields.”
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Carbon dioxide enrichment also affects the way a plant can tolerate high temperatures. At the highest air temperatures encountered by plants, CO2 enrich-ment can often mean the difference between living and dying. It typically enables plants to maintain positive carbon exchange rates in situations where plants growing under ambient CO2 levels would normally exhibit negative rates that ultimately lead to their demise. This is because enrichment affects tran-spiration by causing the stomata to partially close, which slows down the loss of water vapour into the air. Foliage on CO2-enriched plants is much thicker and slower to wilt than plants grown without it.
There are many alternatives to traditional CO2 pro-duction. The composting of organic matter results in CO2, so many large-scale greenhouses have composting rooms adjacent to the growing greenhouse. The CO2 is pumped from one room into the other with circula-tion fans. One drawback, however, is that composting so
close to your growing area can attract crop-damaging insects.The process from beer
making—that is, using sugar, water and yeast—has also been
used. Not a bad deal if you like to brew beer. The yeast eats the sugar
and releases alcohol and CO2 as by-products. If you are not into brewing
beer, you can simply mix brewer’s yeast and sugar with water. Keep in mind, though, it is important
to have the temperature of the water right. Water that is too hot will
kill the yeast and water that is too cold will not activate the yeast. The process
is simple and inexpensive, but it does have some drawbacks. Mainly, it can
present an odour problem and it is somewhat time-consuming as you have to remix the brew every four to five days.
co2 enrichment
Dry ice, which is frozen CO2, releases gas-eous CO2 when exposed to the atmosphere. Dry ice has no liquid stage, which makes it easy to work with and has little clean-up. However, dry ice can be expensive for long-term use and it is dif-ficult to store. Using insulated containers can slow the melting process, but it cannot be stopped.Mycelial-based production is a relatively new
way to introduce CO2. Mushrooms are more like humans in that they exhale CO2, and a non-fruiting strain of mycelium has been discovered that con-tinues to produce this compound for at least half a year (above-ambient CO2 levels can still be detected up to 16 months later). There is no maintenance or set-up with this option, and the low cost makes mycelial-based CO2 a good option.
As a grower, you know the time and energy you spend working your indoor garden is tremendous. Adding CO2 is not only a good idea, it’s necessary to have the most efficient growing area possible. Natural CO2 production, in particular, is a good choice. The ease of use and the reduced effect on the environment make the described options the green choice. They are also easy on your budget and your plants will love you for it.
“carbon-dioxide-enriched plants also have more flowering sites due to the increased branching effect.”
“ mushrooms are more like humans in that they exhale co2, and a non-fruiting strain of mycelium has been discovered that continues to produce this compound for at least half a year.”
52 Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
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7.
1.2.
3..
6.
4.
DO YOU KNOW?
Plants growing indoors under artificial light often lack enough CO2 to efficiently photosynthesise. Plants can quickly use up the available CO2 and convert it to oxygen. When oxygen levels rise too high, stomata on the leaf’s surface close and plant growth virtually stops.
Reverse osmosis has become the gold standard of water treatment in hydroponics, removing blocky, unusable minerals, heavy metals, volatile organic compounds and a host of other toxic contaminants and preventing nutrient lockout. The most expensive parts of an RO filter are the membranes, and those with large gardens using lots of water know that replacing those membranes can add up.
Flood and drain systems have been around a long time. Ever since the first river flooded onto the first flood plain, natural flood and drain systems have been growing plants and doing it well. High-quality flood and drain bucket systems are available from a variety of reputable suppliers and flood table reservoir combinations can be found in any hydro shop.
One of the reasons plants are able to respond to indoor CO2 enrichment in the face of significant shortages of light, water and nutrients is that carbon dioxide-enriched plants generally have more extensive and active root systems, which allows them to more thoroughly explore larger volumes of soil in search of the things they need.
Water softeners look a little like an oxygen tank, are available in several sizes and can use either sodium chloride (salt) or potassium chloride as a medium. They work by exchanging the hardness (that is, minerals) in water for either sodium or potassium using cationic exchange.
Ladybirds are a general predator and will eat pretty much any soft-bodied prey that crosses their path—spider mites, thrips, white flies, mealy bugs, scale and the eggs of all these predators are common sources of food. They especially like aphids and can consume thousands of these pests per week. It is because of these attributes that breeding ladybirds in indoor and outdoor gardens has become quite popular.
Making clones from plant cuttings is a method of asexual propagation. The cutting is taken from what is commonly referred to as a mother plant. A cutting will be genetically identical to the mother plant and will be the same as the parent as long as the environmental conditions are the same.
5.
8.Deep water culture hydroponic systems can be built to be as simple or as elaborate as you wish and can be tailored to fit any space. They are capable of growing nearly any crop from greens to gourds and are incredibly stingy with nutrients, using up to 70% less than a similar sized top drip system.
yOu tEll uS
Tell us a little about how your company started.The company, based in the Okanagan region of British Columbia, Canada, officially started about two years ago when Travis Rypkema, the creator of what is now known as the Enhancer, was looking to expand the product's presence. He contacted Josh Brazier, an old friend from high school, who was engulfed in the business world and always looking to expand his portfolio. Josh: The two of us formed TNB Naturals Inc., invested in a website and started a guerilla-like marketing plan aimed at anyone and everyone who would listen. Travis: We made some major changes to the packaging and started advertising. This led to a serious increase in sales and the TNB name began to gain some attention in the industry.
How did you come up with the idea for The Enhancer CO2 Dispersal Canister?Josh: This product was developed for growers by growers, and as a result, we're proud to say we haven't come across another CO2 product capable of delivering the high ppms the Enhancer has become known for. Sunlight Supply recently conducted a test on the Enhancer in a 1.2 m by 1.2 m sealed chamber. They were shocked to see it reach 5,000 ppm after the first day. At that point they stopped the test to exhaust the room and add a fan. When we saw the results, we knew we really had something
special. In a 3.7 m by 3.7 m by 2.4 m room, gardeners can expect to hit anywhere from 1,200 to 1,500 ppm depending on their set-up. The idea was all Travis—he experimented for years until he discovered the perfect formula. Travis: I felt there was a major void in the market. Sure, there were a few options for natural CO2, but none that hit the level of CO2 a plant needs to really notice a difference. The Enhancer is activated when water is added and the bottle is shaken, and the ingredients cause a reaction that puts off high amounts of CO2.
How is it different than other CO2 products?Josh: The Enhancer is user-activated, whereas other products are activated before the consumer buys them. It works off natural photosynthesis and actually decreases the amount of CO2 at night or when the lights are off. This is crucial because, as it says in The Grower’s handbook: “excess levels of CO2 during the lights-off period have been shown to be detrimental to yield.” Users know the CO2 will be at its maximum performance and gardeners don't need to wonder how long the product has been on the shelf or how long it's been putting off CO2. Travis: It's a natural way of delivering CO2 to your grow space, is much safer than propane or natural gas burners and emits no heat. Aside from that, adding CO2 increases a grower's final
The philosophy behind TNB Naturals Inc. is to develop safe, all-natural products that are highly effective and environmentally friendly. Co-owners Travis and Josh tell all about the company's premier product—the Enhancer—and why they call it the most effective, all-natural CO2 in the industry.
54 Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
yield and improves the overall health of plants. One of the biggest selling features is the Enhancer's three-year shelf life, whereas many other products have a much shortly shelf life because they are already activated.
Is the Enhancer an environmentally friendly product?Josh: The Enhancer is made from a combination of all-natural, biodegradable ingredients and it's packaged in a recyclable bottle. When we first started, we were actually using recycled bottles, but as demand increased, that option was no longer feasible. Things sure have changed, but we'll never forget those days—we know where we started out and I think that really makes us appreciate where we are now.
Any new products coming down the line in the future? Josh: We have always told ourselves that TNB is going to become a major player in the world of indoor gardening and envisioned a product line of our own. We started with the Enhancer and had plants to release a second and third product shortly afterwards. But the ever-increasing demand for the Enhancer has resulted in a decision to prolong the release of any additional products and focus our efforts on bringing the Enhancer to gardens across the globe. That being said, we do plan to release a refill pack for the Enhancer sometime this year as well as a larger version of the product for those with bigger gardens.
How has the Enhancer been received in Australia so far?Travis: The Enhancer is gaining some serious attention in Australia as consumers across the country are being introduced to the product. We're still fairly new to the scene, but our Australian wholesaler has been doing an amazing job. We're now receiving calls and emails from retail stores and consumers on a daily basis and consistent, positive feedback from those who have tried the product. We always knew our biggest obsta-cle would be getting people to try the Enhancer and just like any other premium product, the results speak for themselves.
Any advice for beginner gardeners using your product?Josh: CO2 is one of the most important components of the growroom environment. Without adequate CO2 to process the light, water and nutrients, the light intended for your plants will literally bounce off of them. Travis: It is also important to remember that CO2 is heavier than air and will naturally sink to the ground. That being said,
the Enhancer should be placed slightly above your plants and in front of an oscillating fan if one is available. This allows CO2 to shower evenly over all the plants in your garden. Josh: Also, if growers are exhausting their rooms, the Enhancer should be placed as far away from the exhaust fan as possible, allowing plants to uptake the vast majority of the CO2 before it leaves the room.
“the enhancer is made from a combination of all-natural, biodegradable
When MAttheW DustinG, oWner of the GroW shop, first bouGht the business in noveMber 2012, it WAs cAlleD Dr vAn Der blooMs hyDroponics. he explAins the re-brAnDinG process, AnD hoW custoMer feeDbAck hAs helpeD hiM forGe A successful business.
Matthew Dusting
56 Maximum Yield | March/April 2014
talKiNG ShOp
Family came before busi-ness ownership for Matthew Dusting, owner of The Grow Shop in Coffs Harbour. He was a stay-at-home dad bring-ing up two young children when he was approached to buy the shop in 2012. “I was approached by my ex-business partner, who was looking for someone with experience in the industry to go into business together,” explains Matthew. “I have been involved in hydroponics in Australia and overseas on and off for 20-plus years.”When the pair first bought
the hydroponics shop in November 2012, it was called Dr Van Der Blooms Hydroponics. The shop had been open for more than 10 years in a few different locations in the town, but when Matthew took over, the shop was already at its current location on Forge Drive. After working with his business partner for the first seven months and trading as Dr Van Der Blooms Hydroponics,
Matthew took over the business full-time in August 2013 and changed the name of the business to The Grow Shop in late 2013 to reflect the change in ownership.Matthew's first year in business was spent consolidating the
local clients that had been using the shop for years and listen-ing to their feedback on what they wanted in the store. “It was obviously an easier start-up process than opening a brand new store as we had the client base already,” he remembers. “We expanded product lines and restocked the store over the first year to meet our customers' requirements. Then by word of mouth new customers arrived to check out our new shop.” In the early days, Matthew and his business partner each
worked part-time in the store, cover-ing the six days per week the shop was open. Since striking out on his own, Matthew runs the store as a solo enter-prise with help from a casual worker. “When I bought the company, I re-branded it with our new logo to reflect the change of owners,” shares Matthew. “My logo for the business was created by
my brother from lightiseverything.com.au, who also created my website. I wanted a simple and effective logo that people would remember.” The company philosophy is simple and effective as well—to
provide exceptional customer service and knowledgeable assistance to growers. “We provide an after-hours service, delivery, stock is freighted out to customers and we listen to what customers want—not only in terms of different stock, but also to work within their budgets to help achieve a great outcome for their growing. We have a new website and adver-tise nationally as well as locally.” While customers are mainly locals, many people from different parts of the country drop in as the business is just a one-minute drive off the Pacific Highway at Coffs Harbour on the way to Sydney or Brisbane, Matthew adds. Two things Matthew struggled with at the beginning, as
do most new retail store owners, were keeping up the stock levels and ensuring the orders were just right and met all of the needs of customers. The Grow Shop carries a wide range of products and brands, including light kits, grow tents, propagation equipment, additives, carbon filters, centrifugal fans, cloning kits, growth enhancers, heat pads, lights, nutrients, reflectors and tanks. Matthew says the business is unique in that it carries a broad range of nutrients to meet every customer's needs. The Grow Shop is also branching off into the aquaponics aspect of the industry to meet local demand and Matthew is working closely with a local company on a joint venture to supply aquaponics kits to customers.The store's No. 1 strength is without a doubt customer ser-
vice, says Matthew. “We listen to the customers' needs, help out with growing techniques and pass on knowledge,” he says. “I believe that the hydroponic shop is the cornerstone of the industry, where everyone can look, learn, touch and share information about the industry and all the new products and innovations coming onto the market. Growroom design is what I enjoy most. When customers come into the shop with plans for their growrooms, I like to sit down and make a full project out it. I like to make sure that it is done right for a great outcome for the customer.”Providing good growing information, following it up with
great customer service and keeping up with the industry's latest innovations, products and methods make for a suc-cessful hydroponics business, says Matthew. When custom-
ers walk back in and tell Matthew that their grow-rooms are thriving, that's when he knows he's been successful. “That’s our end game right there,” he says. To learn more about The
Grow Shop, visit them at thegrowshop.com.au
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Tacoma Expo REady To RollThe 2014 Grow Like a Pro Indoor Gardening Expo Tour kicks off next month in Tacoma, Washington, at the Greater Tacoma Convention and Trade Center April 5 and 6. Don’t miss the first opportunity to see the latest gear for 2014. For more information, special hotel rates and your complimentary VIP ticket go to indoorgardenexpo.com. Can't make it to the Tacoma expo? The tour also makes stops in Novi, Michigan (May 31 and June 1); San Francisco, California (July 26 and 27); and Boston, Massachusetts (Oct. 18 and 19).
pRoducT SpoTlighTWant to learn more about the latest products to hit the indoor gardening market? We’ve got the details at maximumyield.com. Check out the product spotlight section.
aRE you a FaN?Thank you to all those readers who have entered our I’m a Fan contest. We have enjoyed what our readers have had to say and we know the winners have loved spending their prizes at their favourite retail shops. You can win too. Tell us how much you enjoy reading Maximum Yield by going to maximumyield.com/features/contests/ i-m-a-fan or emailing [email protected] and you’ll be entered to win monthly $100 cash prizes to spend at your local grow store. We will choose a new winner every month and a grand prize winner will be drawn in December to receive $1,000 to spend at the indoor garden shop of their choice.
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Why gRoW iN a gREENhouSE?Although expensive to set up, a successful greenhouse production can deliver 10 times the yield of an indoor grow space. Everything is faster and more magnified in an under-the-sun operation, and this can be a great thing if you learn a few key skills. Temperature management, water management and simple observation are the best places to start.
bENEFicial ElEmENTS FoR plaNT gRoWThWhile science has identified 17 essential elements required for plant growth, plants have the ability use a number of other substances and elements. Plant matter contains more than 60 elements, and experts have much to learn about crop nutrition and how growers can best use hydroponic nutrient formulations to their full advantage.
moRE EFFiciENT gRoW lighTS Growing with multiple lights in the grow space gives growers better options, like perpetual or staggered harvests, side-by-side comparisons and bigger production. However, while many growers would like to take advantage of these technically advanced options, meeting the electrical requirements can be tricky.
newse
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