Mass Movers - WWD

SHERMAN OUT AT LIMITED/2 LIZ CLAIBORNE NET SOARS/22Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • October 31, 2003 • $2.00

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A Deeper Shade of Red:Revlon Losses Extend To 20 Straight QuartersBy Jennifer Weitzman

NEW YORK — The ongoing financial crisis atRevlon Inc. continued as the beauty giantagain languished in the red during thethird quarter.

In the three months ended Sept. 30,Revlon experienced a net loss of $54.7million, or 78 cents a diluted share,extending its losing streak to 20 quartersin a row. This compares with a loss of$22.1 million, or 41 cents, in the sameperiod last year.

Overall revenues in the quarterdeclined 2.1 percent to $316.5 millionfrom $323.2 million in last year’s quarter,

The Nightclub in the Sky party with Paper Magazine, held lastSaturday, was sponsored by A|X Armani Exchange. The sponsorwas incorrect in a Fashion Scoop on page 7, Thursday.

● ● ●

Pop star Jessica Simpson has been approached to be a spokes-woman for Chicken of the Sea brand tuna fish, but no deal hasbeen signed yet. This was incorrect in a story on page 4, Tuesday.

Corrections

NEW YORK — Although JenniferLopez has been more in the spot-light lately for her romantic es-capades than her business af-fairs, the entrepreneur continuesto build up her fashion empire.

On Thursday, Sweetface Fash-ion Co., the holding company forthe JLo brand, said two more cat-egories — handbags and outer-wear — will soon make theirdebut, both of which are beingproduced under license.

New York-based Daniel M.Friedman & Associates willmake the JLo by Jennifer Lopezhandbags and small leathergoods, which are slated to launchat next week’s market in time forearly spring selling. The hand-bag collection includes materialssuch as velour and PVC, withtouches such as lucite chain andsequin embellishments, whilebelts include rhinestone hard-ware and pearl treatments, saidDaniel Friedman, owner of thecompany. Wholesale pricesrange from $14 to $35 for hand-bags, and $7.50 to $14 for belts.

Outerwear, meanwhile, isbeing made by Henry Kay Brom-

ley, and will hit stores later thisyear. Barry Kay, co-president ofthe firm, declined to divulgespecifics of the line or givewholesale prices.

Retail prices will range from$100 to $250, according to Sweet-face. Distribution for both cate-gories will consist of departmentstores and specialty stores. Salesprojections for the new cate-

gories were not revealed by ei-ther company, and Denise See-gal, president and chief execu-tive officer of Sweetface, was un-available for comment.

JLo’s fashion offerings nowinclude sportswear, fashion jew-elry, swimwear, sunglasses andperfume, as well as cold-weatheraccessories.

— Melanie Kletter

JLo Adds Outerwear, Handbags

By David Moin

NEW YORK — Limited Stores,the weak link in the specialtychains operated by LimitedBrands, has a new chief execu-tive, Charles Turlinski. He suc-ceeds Jeff Sherman, who re-signed Thursday after 18months at the helm.

Turlinski is an operations ex-ecutive with a long history of spe-cialty store turnaround experi-ence, as opposed to Sherman,whose background was largelyworking at Bloomingdale’s,where he served for many yearsas president. When Shermanjoined Limited Stores in March2002, the move was considered acareer stretch and a challenging

assignment, considering LimitedStores hadn’t turned a profitsince the mid-Nineties.

Recently, the division has beenin a holding pattern. Its future re-mains uncertain. On the otherhand, much work has been doneto push growth at Express, Bath &Body Works and Victoria’s Secret,which are considered the core di-visions of Limited Brands.

Turlinski reports to LeslieWexner, chairman and ceo ofLimited Brands. Retail expertshave speculated that Wexner hasbeen reluctant to dismantle orsell off Limited Stores since itwas the first store he founded andit remains close to his heart. Butthey don’t discount the possibility.Limited Stores peaked at close to

800 units in the early Ninetiesand $1.2 billion in sales, but lastyear posted $638 million in saleswith 351 stores. The business hasbeen losing market share to suchstores as Ann Taylor Loft, BananaRepublic and even possiblyExpress, though it has a some-what older appeal.

Turlinski provides some newhope. “He’s a turnaround expertand has great back-of-the-houseskills,” said Jennifer Black, pres-ident of Jennifer Black &Associates, a consultant to largeinstitutional investors. “This di-vision has never had anyonewith his kind of specialty storeskill set. It’s been always focusedon merchandising. Chuck is not

Limited Stores Appoints CEO

MILAN — The waiting game con-tinues on the Tom and Dom front.

Gucci Group president andchief executive Domenico DeSole had said he and creativedirector Tom Ford would “prob-ably” reach a decision about therenewal of their employmentcontracts with French groupPinault-Printemps-Redoute bySaturday, but there was no signof an imminent announcementat press time Thursday.

Spokesmen for Gucci Groupand PPR, which owns 67.6 per-cent of Gucci Group, said negoti-ations are ongoing, but declinedto comment on the progress orthe chance of a swift resolution.

Ford is in Los Angeles thisweek shooting the Gucci springadvertising campaign. De Sole,who had been traveling in theU.S. earlier in the week, arrivedback at Gucci headquarters inLondon late Wednesday

Sources close to the negotia-tions confirm that corporate gov-ernance remains the most con-

tentious issue. But compensa-tion and the way the company isorganized are also said to besubjects on the table.

Meanwhile, some in the mar-ket are wondering whether it’sin De Sole’s and Ford’s interestto stall a decision on the con-tracts for as long as possible.Doing so would give the pairmore time to produce strong fi-nancial results and induce mi-nority shareholders not to ten-der their shares next year, whenPPR is obligated to launch a bidfor all outstanding Gucci shares.If that were to happen, Guccimight stay a listed company andavoid becoming a wholly ownedsubsidiary of PPR.

Claire Kent, luxury analyst atMorgan Stanley, said in a recentreport that the real question isthe intrinsic value of the Italiancompany and whether “Guccimanagement [can] regain credi-bility fast enough to remain apublic company.”

Gucci shares rallied last

month, when the company is-sued bullish forecasts and pre-dicted a rebound in the secondhalf of the year. The shares havelost a bit of ground since thenand currently trade at about $86a share in Amsterdam and NewYork. That price is above the$85.52 put price PPR must offernext year. On Thursday, Guccishares declined 14 cents, or 0.2percent, to close at $86.10 on theNew York Stock Exchange.

To be sure, PPR would face adelicate situation should talksfail and Ford and De Sole exit.Notwithstanding any negative re-action from investors, the Frenchgroup would have to move swift-ly to come up with a plan B.

It is understood that PPR ex-ecutives have reflected on itsoptions for a Gucci Group with-out Ford and De Sole, but havenot yet contacted any designersor managers so as not to upsetthe negotiations.

— Amanda Kaiser, andMiles Socha, Paris

No Decision Yet for De Sole, FordGENERAL

The financial crisis at Revlon Inc. continued as it posted a net loss of $54.7million in the third quarter, bringing its losing streak to 20 straight quarters.

Liz Claiborne Inc. turned in double-digit third-quarter gains on both the topand bottom lines, but still managed to rattle investors with 2004 projections.

Sweetface Fashion Co., the holding firm for the JLo brand, said two morecategories, handbags and outerwear, will be added to the growing empire.

SUZY: Ashton gets naughty…Elton’s big bash for David…Getting set forthe Library Lions…Who knows Halloween.

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WWDFRIDAYBeauty

● ROSS GETS BURLINGTON NOD: A bankruptcy court judge inWilmington, Del., on Thursday approved W.L. Ross & Co.’s $614million deal to buy Burlington Industries Inc. Wilbur Ross, chair-man and chief executive of the investment concern — who’s alsoset to step up as chairman of Burlington — said he expected thecompany to emerge from Chapter 11 under his ownership on Nov.10, and that the previously reported deal to sell the Lees carpetdivision to Mohawk Industries should close the same day. Ross isalso in the running to buy bankrupt Cone Mills Corp., a deal hehad expected to close by the end of the year. His purchase wasopposed by a slate of dissident Cone directors, and he told WWDThursday that he’s agreed to postpone the closing of the dealuntil late January or early February. “I have no reason to believethat anybody else is going to bid,” he said, “But [Cone is] a smallenough deal that it’s affordable by a lot of people.”

● AUSTRALIA SAYS NO: Steve Deady, Australia’s lead negotia-tor in the U.S.-Australia Free Trade Agreement talks, saidThursday in a conference call that Australia will not accept thetraditional U.S. yarn-forward rule of origin for apparel and tex-tiles because it “will not work for the [Australian textile indus-try.]” A yarn-forward rule of origin requires the use of U.S. yarn,fiber and fabric to receive duty-free entry into the U.S. Deadydid not give details on what Australia is seeking. The U.S. hasproposed a strict yarn-forward rule of origin for textiles and ap-parel, according to Ralph Ives, lead negotiator for the U.S., whosaid it is one issue both sides need more time to work through.The negotiators, who just wrapped up the fourth round of talksin Canberra, Australia, claimed the talks are on track to be com-pleted by year-end. The final round is set for the first week ofDecember in Washington.

● KELLWOOD SELLS HOSIERY UNIT: Kellwood Co. said Thursdayit has reached an agreement to sell its Auburn Hosiery Divisionand European operations to Delta Galil Industries. Auburn wasacquired through Kellwood’s purchase of Gerber Childrenswearin 2002. The hosiery market has not been a primary focus ofKellwood’s portfolio and the decision to sell Auburn is expectedto allow the company to focus on its core business strategies.

In Brief

Obituary ....................................................................................................6Classified Advertisements........................................................................23

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WWD, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 31, 20032

Looks from the

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A special report on breast cancer awareness appears on pages 10-15.

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Demi Moore might want to think aboutshortening the leash she has on her younghottie, Ashton Kutcher. This week heshowed up at Cielo, the trendy downtownnightclub, with a group of actors from

“That 70s Show,” but that’s not Demi’s problem. Whather problem could be is the young pretty blonde thatwas all over Ashton. They made quite a display ofthemselves in a dark corner. Demi was nowhere in sight.Naturally, Ashton was instantly recognized no matterhow far he kept pulling down his poorboy cap. When youthink it over, if you’re going to fool around, don’t do it ina room filled with fashionistas and models, like, forinstance, Karolina Kurkova and others of that persuasion.

●Elton John and his partner, filmmaker David Furnish,

celebrated the 10th anniversary of their friendshipThursday in London by spending a quiet privateevening together. It was another story entirely lastSunday when Elton gave a riotous lunch at Harry’s Barto celebrate David’s 41st birthday. Harry’s closed upshop in honor of the occasion and Elton invited 60 ofDavid’s friends to dip into mushroom risotto and seabass as he led the throng in singing “Happy Birthday”while a towering vanilla cake was carried in. Amongthose raising their voices in song were Cornelia Guest,who flew in especially for the occasion wearing abeautifully cut Dior blazer and bringing shirts for theguest of honor; Hugh Grant; Lily Safra; Stephen Daldry,who directed “The Hours”; Dior’s Hedi Slimane; andElle MacPherson and Arki Busson, very much togetherin spite of a recent teeny-weeny blip in theirrelationship. Beautiful Daphne Guinness was there too,along with Isabella Blow, Sally Green, who runs the OldVic, Spice Girl Victoria Beckham, SusannahConstantine, who hosts the British TV show “What Notto Wear” and bespoke tailor Richard James, who makessuits for Elton, Hugh and David and others of that ilkand stripe.

The bar was piled high with presents for David,

especially Elton’s: an important contemporary paintingto go in their new flat, the latest Apple computer, and aplatinum pavé diamond necklace and bracelet that Eltondesigned personally. The guests all took home Elton’snewest wickless candles, designed by Slatkin & Co. —just take the top off and the fragrance of Elton’s gardenfills the room. Is that sweet?

Cornelia’s back in New York where she competed inthe National Metropolitan Horse Show Thursday in aperfectly cut shadbelly made just for her by MarkBadgley and James Mischka. A shadbelly is a blackjacket used for formal attire jumping events. But youknew that.

●The mother of all stage mothers? Elizabeth Hurley is

already training her 18-month-old son, Damian, tofollow in her footsteps and become a star. She hasenrolled the baby in singing classes near her countryhouse in England. She has also enrolled herself inshooting classes — not to keep her boyfriend ArunNayar in line when he complains about being called “Mr.Hurley,” but because she is organizing a shoot in thecountry for their friends and quite sensibly doesn’t wantto shoot herself in the foot or other regions moreimportant to her. There’s a joke in there somewhere.

●On Monday night, the New York Public Library will

host its so-important event of the year, a celebration ofits Library Lions, those personages the Library deemsworthy of deep respect, admiration and even — forheaven’s sake — adulation. This year’s lions are BillyCollins, Jim Dine, Audra McDonald and the one and onlyJohn Richardson. There will be cocktails first in AstorHall and dinner afterwards in the Celeste BartosForum. Of course, it’s black tie. The honorary chairmanof the evening is Brooke Astor and the benefit chairmenare such worthies as Lord and Lady Black, Annette andOscar de la Renta, Princess Firyal, Lionel Pincus,

Veronica Hearst and Liz and Felix Rohatyn. Would it beredundant to mention the evening is “jet black tie?”

●Prince and Princess Michael of Kent were the guests

of honor at the Rainbow Room for the AmericanAssociates of the Royal Academy Trust where theychatted away with Princess Marina of Greece. Theyasked Marina what she was planning to do tonight.Halloween, you know. She said nothing special. So why,said the Kents, don’t we hang out together? We could gotrick-or-treating at the Carlyle. Is that a hootie-hoot-hoot?Of course, they don’t have Halloween in England, but theKents have or had children at Brown, and Michael andMarina of Greece’s daughter went to NYU, so they areaware of this peculiar night in America. In fact, there arefew people anywhere who know more about Halloweenthan Princess Michael of Kent. Once upon a time at aNew York dinner party, she expounded on its origins andhistory from religious rituals down to the last pumpkin inthe patch. Not one American at the table could touch her.

●John Demsey, Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, Natasha

Richardson, Blaine Trump and Anna Wintour are invitingany number of very special people for cocktails and avery special photography auction at the Chelsea ArtMuseum on Nov. 18 in memory of the greatphotographer Herb Ritts. Please wear somethingfestive because it’s going to be that kind of gathering.

Going to the highest bidder will be magnificentphotographs by Irving Penn, Ellen von Unwerth,Helmut Newton, Matthew Rolston, Peter Lindbergh,Mark Seliger (if you want a portrait of Mick Jagger,looking a thousand years old) and Richard Gere (if youwant a portrait of an Indian woman looking twothousand years old), Michael Thompson, AnnieLeibovitz, David Bailey and more more more, includingMario Testino’s dreamy shot of Princess Diana. Theevening will benefit God’s Love We Deliver.

eye®

By Aileen Mehle

Suzy


Ashton’s Wandering Eye? ● Mama Hurley ● A Royal Halloween

Demi Moore and Ashton KutcherDemi Moore and Ashton Kutcher

Princess FiryalPrincess Firyal

Princess Michael of KentPrincess Michael of Kent

✽

CONGRATULATES

LUCKYFOR BEING NAMED THE 2003

MAGAZINEOF THE YEARBY ADVERTISING AGE

© 2003 THE CONDÉ NAST PUBLICATIONS INC.

CONDÉ NAST

BIG THANKSTO ALL THE MARKETERS WHO RECOGNIZED THE POWER OF LUCKY

AND SUPPORTED AMERICA’S FIRST SHOPPING MAGAZINE.

NEW YORK — Robert J. Barnes, the former president of Estée Lauder USA, died after a short illnessSunday at his home in Monarch Beach, Calif. He was 86 years old.

Barnes joined Estée Lauder in 1964 when the company was in its infancy. In the years ahead, hehelped lead the company’s rise to a dominant position in the industry before retiring in 1991.

The son of Lawrence and Lillian Barnes, he was born on Nov. 17, 1916, in Kalamazoo, Mich.,where he attended school and worked with his father at the A.W. Johnson Company men’s store.Later, Barnes entered Northwestern University and graduated in 1939. There, he met his wife,Barbara, whom he was married to for more than 60 years.

During World War II, Barnes served in the 1st Marine Division in Guadalcanal. He received theArmy Marine Corps medal for saving the lives of Army airmen trapped in a downed aircraft. He re-tired from the Marines as a Lt. Colonel.

Following the war, Barnes moved to San Marino, Calif., where he began in the cosmetics field by help-ing to build the Dorothy Gray cosmetics line into the number-one brand on the West Coast. Barnes wasthen hired by the Estée Lauder Cos., moving to Greenwich, Conn., in 1967. His sales talents are creditedby Lauder as being instrumental in its successthroughout the Seventies and Eighties.

Following his retirement, Barnes leftGreenwich in 1993 and became a resident ofMonarch Beach and Indian Wells, Calif., involv-ing himself in business ventures including realestate development, retailing and investing.

Barnes is survived by wife Barbara, sonJohn, daughter Nancy and six grandchildren.

Memorial services will be held at SanMarino Community Church on Tuesday at11:00 a.m. Donations can be made in memoryof Barnes to either the Scripps FoundationCancer Research, Healing Hearts Funds or theChildren’s Brain Center at the Children’sHospital of Los Angeles.

The Beauty Report

CAP D’ANTIBES, France — Lancaster’s renaissance iscomplete, say executives at the prestige brand.

Its rebirth was feted at a two-day event here on theshores of the Mediterranean. “The reason we broughtyou to this place with an incredible view is because itembodies the soul of the Lancaster brand,” saidCatherine Walsh, senior vice president of marketing forcosmetics and American licenses at Lancaster GroupWorldwide, the prestige division of Coty Inc.

Indeed, the Mediterranean plays a key role. Manyof Lancaster’s product ingredients are now from thesea’s environs. Monaco, the birthplace of the brand 57years ago, is spelled out in Lancaster’s logo. And thebrand’s advertising tag line reads “The secret toMediterranean beauty.”

Walsh said the Lancaster brand was put through aseven-step revamp program in which its roots wereidentified and there was a reimaging and reorganizingof its product portfolio.

“The strategy was to rebalance the picture a little bit,”she explained of the brand whosecore client is 40-plus. Currently, 39percent of Lancaster’s business isrung up from skin care, 38 percentfrom sun care, 15 percent from make-up and 8 percent from fragrance.Ultimately, the plan is to have 33 per-cent from skin care, 32 percent fromsun care, 15 percent from fragranceand 20 percent from makeup.

Geographically speaking, Europeis expected to remain Lancaster’slargest market, said Michele Scanna-vini, president of Lancaster GroupWorldwide.

The brand’s biggest countriesthere are Germany, then Spain,Italy, Holland and France. Lancast-er is also available in the MiddleEast — domestically and in travelretail — and in European travel-retail doors. Altogether, it is in some8,500 stores.

Ultimately, the Lancaster brandcould possibly be rolled out to Asiaand the U.S., confirmed Scannavini.The Lancaster Group Worldwide —which includes brands such asDavidoff, JLo and Jil Sander — already sells its fra-grances in the U.S.

Within Lancaster Group Worldwide, the Lancasterbrand rang up 15 percent of the estimated $623 millionbusiness last year, according to industry sources.

“The plan is to grow the group double digits in the next

three years,” said Scannavini, whoadded the Lancaster brand’s develop-ment is expected to follow suit.

Part of the progression will be fromproduct introductions in each of thebrand’s major categories.

Lancaster will launch a new scent,called Aquazur, in April 2004. Aqua-zur’s light blue juice, meant to recallthe Mediterranean, was concocted byQuest’s Francis Kurkdjian. It containstop notes of accords of lemon and bit-ter orange, Provencal verbena andSicilian bergamot; middle notes ofwhite jasmine, Florentine iris, rosacentifolia, lemon blossom and sun-flower, and base notes of blond amber,musk and white cedar.

Aquazur’s bottle — a transparentcylinder — was created by Ken Hirst.And the scent’s yet-to-be-unveiledadvertisement will be lensed byNathaniel Goldberg and feature modelGeorgina Grenville. The 50-ml. eau de

toilette spray will sell for $46, or 39 euros, for a 50-ml. bot-tle and $67, or 57 euros, for the 100-ml. version.

Lancaster executives would not discuss numbers,but according to industry sources, Aquazur could gen-erate $17.5 million, or 15 million euros, in wholesalesales in its first year.

All prices are converted from the euro at currentexchange rates and are for Europe.

In color cosmetics, Lancaster will introduce inFebruary 2004 to all of its markets except France a col-lection of products, including the Rouge Riviera SpaLipstick SPF 10. Walsh said using the product withantioxidants, Mediterranean oil and vitamins A and C is“like taking lips on a vacation.”

Industry sources estimate the item, which will retailfor $27, or 23 euros, could generate $116,900, or 100,000euros, in retail sales in its first 12 months.

Sun care-wise, Lancaster “looked at the business andrealized we didn’t lead and dominate in every segment,”said Walsh. She explained the brand hadn’t focused onthe self-tanning category for a while, although it is one ofthe fastest growing.

So, among numerous sun care products slated to belaunched in January 2004 is Anti-Age Bronze Care SPF6, which ultimately will be a line with six stockkeepingunits. Thanks to a combination of DHA incorporated ina patent-pending lamellar system and free DHA, theself-tanner works twice as fast as other such productsand is long-lasting, according to Leonhard Zastrow, sen-ior vice president of research and development,Lancaster Group and Coty Beauty.

The Anti-Age Bronze Care product also containswatermelon extract for moisturizing, pineappleextract for exfoliating and white lupine seed for anti-aging benefits.

Industry sources say the line’s 50-ml. Anti Age bronz-er, which is slated to retail for $33, or 28 euros, couldring up retail sales of $8.2 million, or 7 million euros,during its first 12 months.

Also, in terms of product introductions, Lancaster willlaunch a deep moisturizer called Revolcanic in Feb.2004. Its name stems from the pure volcanic water rich inions and trace elements found in its formula. That,together with Lancaster’s proprietary Deep HydraComplex with biotechnological agents, purportedly bal-ances the skin cells’ water movement. Revolcanic isbilled to give an immediate relief to dryness and a long-term moisturizing effect.

The product will come as a 50-ml cream for $51, or 44euros, and a 50-ml. gel for the same price.

Industry sources say Revolcanic could generate$11.7 million, or 10 million euros, in retail sales in itsfirst year.

Lancaster unveiled its new streamlined merchandis-ing units, as well. These will be debuted in a couple ofweeks at Harvey Nichols in the U.K. before being rolledout further.

With all steps of the Lancaster renaissance in place,Walsh said the goal is to “redefine luxury cosmetics.”

— Jennifer Weil


Obituary

Former Lauder Exec Barnes Dies at 86

Lancaster’s self tanners.

Lancaster Sets Course for Future

Robert J.

Barnes

Lancaster

sunscreen.

7WWD, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2003

NEW YORK — Lancôme has addedcritical mass to the dermatologistskin care revolution.

The division of L’Oréal has struck upa relationship with Dr. Tina S. Alster,founding director of the WashingtonInstitute of Dermatological LaserSurgery, as Lancôme’s dermatologicalconsultant.

L’Oréal has therefore become thelatest big player — along with archrivalEstée Lauder Cos. — to subscribe to themushrooming influence of dermatolo-gists in driving the budding upscaleskin care category. In July, Lauderacquired a brand that was created andmarketed by Katie Rodan and KathyFields, two Stanford-trained dermatol-ogists based in Oakland, Calif. Thatmove followed an announcement lastNovember that Lauder’s Prescriptivesdivision had retained dermatologistKaryn Grossman as an exclusive skincare consultant.

“Skin is in,” quipped Alster onWednesday during an interview at the Fifth Avenue head-quarters of L’Oréal USA.

Dalia Chammas, senior vice president and general manag-er of Lancôme USA, underscored the import of L’Oréal’s entryinto the dermatology game. The company spends more than$350 million a year on research and development, employing2,700 scientists and technicians.

As a lecturer on cosmetic laser surgery and the author ofmedical articles and books, like “Cosmetic Laser Surgery,”“The Essential Guide to Cosmetic Laser Surgery” and the“Manual of Cutaneous Laser Techniques,” Alster is certainlywell versed. In the course of seeing as many as 30 patients aday, she describes her practice as an impromptu focus group.

One of her primary roles will be in advising Lancôme onthe development of new products, which promises to be a crit-ical function in the increasing demanding high-tech skin care

category. Or as Alster said, “helpingfocus development of future prod-ucts based on what consumers areasking for.”

Alster said she sees her new rolewith Lancôme as functioning as a“liaison” between the company andher patients and also her colleaguesin the medical community. She notedthat more and more women are inter-ested in using at-home treatmentsand with so many products on themarket, women are constantly askingher advice on using them. They evencome to the office with copies of adsthey’ve ripped out of magazines,Alster noted, adding that the moreshe learns about products, the better.“The more I know about Lancôme,the more I can tell them,” she said.

Odile Roujol, deputy generalmanager and senior vice presidentof marketing at Lancôme, stressedthe importance of Alster’s vantagepoint in knowing what women need.

“On a daily basis, she meets with women who have concernsand want simple answers,” Roujol said.

Alster also will be able to speak for the company and planson making department store appearances. L’Oréal will partici-pate in the annual meeting of the American Academy ofDermatology in Washington in February, during which Alsterwill be honored by the Sturge Weber Foundation. Edgar Huber,president of the Luxury Products Division of L’Oréal USA,stressed the importance of Alster as liaison between Lancômeand the dermatologist community.

Alster sees herself as “bringing dermatologists up tospeed” on the ingredients and benefits of Lancôme’s prod-ucts. “I was impressed by what they sent me,” she added,acknowledging that in the past, there has sometimes been alack of appreciation between the two camps.

— Pete Born

The Doctor Is In at Lancôme

NEW YORK — After years of catering to Manhattan’s topbeauties, skin care salon owner Tracie Martyn is workingon a different wrinkle of her business: outside distribution.

While Martyn and her business partner, Marius Morariu,have been concocting skin care remedies in their FifthAvenue atelier for several years, the duo is now slowlyrolling out its three-product line past its own salon and Website. The first outside door, Harrod’s, got the line last year,and it is now being joined by Barneys New York in the U.S.

Martyn began her career as a makeup artist in London in1982, eventually going back to school to get licensed as anaesthetician. Along the way, she developed the Resculptor, aproprietary machine that useselectrical currents, said to helpeffect lymphatic drainage andtemporary muscle shortening.The machine became the basisfor her signature ResculptingFacial, which she began perform-ing in 1996.

Doing a product line wasalways a goal for the pair, butthey were determined to dowhat Morariu — who has anutrition degree and who is cur-rently studying for a master’sdegree in Chinese medicine —calls “a pure line.”

“We didn’t want to do an off-the-shelf private label linewhere the only thing that set itapart was that it had our nameon it,” said Morariu. “Our clientswere asking for products without certain chemicals, and weworked to find natural alternatives to ingredients such assodium lauryl sulfate.” Key ingredients in the productsinclude pineapple extract, green papaya extract and vita-min C. Synthetic fragrances are eschewed for essential oils.“Although they smell good, we’re using the oils as activeingredients,” he added.

The first product, introduced in 2002 at Martyn’s salon, wasFirming Serum, intended to firm skin and reduce fine linesand wrinkles. It includes a patented blend of glycosaminogly-cans, extracts of red wine, Chilean evergreen and green tea, aswell as regenerative epidermal growth factors, said Morariu.

It retails for $155. “It quickly became a favorite in the salon —in fact, it was my clients that really were instrumental in get-ting the serum packaged, as they were quite demanding inusing greater quantities than I was providing at the time,”added Martyn, whose client list is said to include Diane vonFurstenberg, Madonna, Liv Tyler and Susan Sarandon.

Firming Serum was followed by Enzyme Exfoliant,designed to gently slough off dead skin cells and lighten sundamage and hyperpigmentation with a blend of botanical skinlighteners, retailing for $85, and Amla Purifying Cleanser, adeep cleanser that is also intended to exfoliate, reduce red-ness and reduce the appearance of fine lines. It retails for $60.

Global retail sales for thethree are estimated at about $3million to $5 million yearly. Theline is currently available inabout eight doors worldwide,and also is continuing to expandinto new doors.

Bettina O’Neill, vice presidentand divisional merchandise man-ager for beauty at Barneys NewYork, began stocking the line thisspring in selected doors. “TracieMartyn is one of our fastest-grow-ing treatment lines — it’s amazingthat it does such a tremendous vol-ume when it is such a small line,”said O’Neill. “I can’t keep it on theshelves — the quality of the prod-ucts is incredible. We’re delightedto have the line.”

Martyn and Morariu hope tokeep that word-of-mouth endorsement going as they formu-late the next products in the line. “We eventually would loveto offer products that target every skin challenge,” saidMorariu, noting that the pair have ideas for at least 15 moreproducts ready to go, which they hope will be rolled out overthe next two years.

Although Morariu concedes that the process could movemore quickly if the pair sold to a larger firm, they’re deter-mined to keep control over the line. “We’ve been approachedby big companies to do lines, but we want to keep our con-trol,” he said. “We’re passionate about our vision.”

— Julie Naughton

MILAN — Just three months after taking over thereins of the Valentino beauty brand from Unilever,Procter & Gamble has announced plans to devel-op and expand the brand to increase sales.

In an announcement made in conjunctionwith Valentino, owned by Italian fashion and tex-tile company Marzotto, a five-year turnaroundplan has been developed to raise the sales of thebeauty arm from 10 to 15 percent of the house’stotal volume to 30 to 40 percent.

“It’s much smaller than it should be,” saidMichele Norsa, chief executive officer of Valentinoand general manager of Marzotto Apparel, of thebeauty business.

Driving the turnaround plan will be a new fra-grance, set to be launched at the beginning of 2005.

Paolo De Cesare, president of P&G’s globalprestige beauty and skin care, confirmed theprospective women’s scent would be an impor-tant part of the new strategy for the brand. “Wewill develop the brand to be a force in beautycare,” he said. “Look at the work we have donewith Hugo Boss — we want to apply the samesystem and strategy for Valentino.”

P&G believes another key to unlocking theValentino’s beauty brand’s potential is to improve itsposition in store and on shelf — and to ensure this,it plans to review every door Valentino’s beauty is in.

“We are currently reviewing all 10,000 doorswe have in Europe and examining what to do withthem,” said De Cesare. “We want to be in all thetop doors for prestige fragrances. We aim to opensome 10 to 20 percent more doors worldwide.”

However, that will be counterbalanced with apruning of underperforming doors — estimated tobe about 15 to 20 percent of total doors. After thereview process, those doors are slated to be closeddown. The brand has no specific plans for singlingout any country for improvement, said De Cesare.Rather, it plans to focus on the bigger picture.

“Now we have to be competitive in all majormarkets,” said Norsa, adding, “we have put a lotof hope in Procter & Gamble to be everywhere, todistribute in those markets in the best way possi-ble. I strongly believe in the U.S. I think it is the

fastest-growing market, and Valentino is visiblystrong and people are aware of the brand there.”

Valentino ended its contract with Unilever —begun in the Eighties — because of differingobjectives, said Norsa. “Unilever was starting aprocess of divesting top luxury brands, which wasnot in line with our need,” he said. “We wantedto start a new story of success. We are muchcloser to Procter & Gamble, which has a strongItalian management. This license is more a part-nership than a business.”

That partnership is already generating workon a new fragrance.

“We get together every week, Valentino him-self included, to develop the bottle and packag-ing and juice,” said Norsa. “We are taking thetime with this fragrance, to develop it properlyand to guarantee the quality.”

Though P&G or Valentino wouldn’t confirmthe fragrance’s target audience, both said theywouldn’t rule out a beauty strategy for the new,younger, directional Valentino Red clothing line.

“To grow the business in the younger market,we developed the Red line in order to increasethe accessibility — and the fragrance arm alsohelps to increase that accessibility,” said Norsa.

Added De Cesare: “We are sensitive to thepositioning and magic of the brand. We feel ithas a large untapped potential — if it travels onfashion it can travel on beauty.”

No specific plans have yet been made for acosmetics line, but that doesn’t mean one would-n’t be considered in the future, said De Cesare.“The brand has significant potential — every-where I turn I see opportunities,” he said.

— Stephanie Epiro

Odile Roujol, Tina S. Alster and Dalia Chammas.

A New Face for Tracie Martyn Skin Care

Valentino PlansBeauty Turnaround

“We will develop thebrand to be a force inbeauty care.”— Paolo De Cesare, Procter & Gamble

Tracie Martyn’s

skin care line.

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NEW YORK — Atlanta-based Aloette Cosmetics Inc. is proving thatgreat things really do come in small packages.

The 25-year-old company is growing at the rate of 64 percent thisyear, with sales jumping from $21.1 million in 2002 to an estimated$34.7 million by yearend, according to industry sources. Productnews and increased exposure on home shopping channels are twokeys reasons for the growth, according to Robert Cohen, chief exec-utive officer of Aloette, who owns the company with his wife,Christie Cohen, Aloette’s chairman.

Christie Cohen, who is also the spokesman and cover model forAloette, began with Aloette Cosmetics as a part-time sales associate in1979 to pay for her expenses at Auburn University. She sold more than$1 million in her first year. The couple purchased the company in 1998.

Aloette’s two divisions include Aloette, an aloe-based skin care, haircare and cosmetics line with 300 products. Its specific categories in-clude skin maintenance, antiaging and problem-specific products. PurMinerals is the higher-end, mineral-based line of skin care and cosmet-ics, offering 75 products, including four-in-one powders that combineconcealer, foundation, powder and sun protection in one product.

Aloette has 54 franchise networks scattered across the U.S. andCanada. It also operates in Australia, Mexico and Costa Rica andhopes to further expand into Latin markets.

The company says that about 32 percent of its sales for both divi-sions result from appearances on home shopping channels.Aloette’s 3,000 company franchisees, or sales representatives, pro-duce the bulk of sales. Aloette products are also available at (800)-ALOETTE, aloette.com and via major market infomercials.

Industry sources also predict that Cosmedix, a soon-to-launchprofessional line that will be sold to dermatologists, aestheticiansand high-end spas, will boost sales another 50 percent in 2004.

Unlike larger companies, Aloette marketers say its streamlined, ef-ficient procedures allow the company to introduce a new product tothe market in just three months. New Aloette products include “Botox-in-a-bottle” Ultra BTX System, a patent-pending serum. This rareblend of toxin-free amino acids is said to promote collagen and elastinproduction while safely relaxing facial muscles to diminish lines andwrinkles. One treatment pack contains two .5-oz. vials for $59.95.

Aloette has created Aloe Pure skin care products, which com-bine aloe vera with alpha and beta hydroxy acids, green tea and vi-tamin C to maximize antiaging and antioxidant benefits. This lineincludes a Warming Pumpkin Energizing Masque, $25 for 4 oz., anda Dual Action Ultra Nail enzyme, .5 oz. for $19.50.

Also new is the Makeup Planner, a black carryall with refillablepages for $66.50.

Aloette targets women between the ages of 25 and 45 and focuseson bringing out the inner beauty in every woman through enhanc-ing her outer beauty. The company has been recognized by Forbesmagazine as one of “America’s Top 200 Small Companies.”

— Andrea Zarczynski

The Beauty Report

Aloette ThrivingWith TV Shoppers


NEW YORK — Under the cavernous ceilings of Cipriani 42ndStreet, some 550 beauty industry executives gathered Tuesdayfor the 2003 Skin Sense Award Gala, to honor Procter & Gamble’sSusan Arnold and Allure editor Linda Wells. The annual eventraised $775,000 in support of skin cancer awareness programs.

Arnold, president of global beauty, personal care and femi-nine care at P&G, said that despite detection programs, so-phisticated products and editorials discouraging tanning, “mil-lions have not heard the message.”

She encouraged people to enjoy the pleasures and warmthof the sun while learning to live in harmony with it. “We needpeople to commit to the idea that protecting yourself from thesun is not a burden. That it can be as natural a response asholding your breath when you put your head under water,”said Arnold. She suggested fashion could play a greater role bycreating great cover-ups and inspiring more hat wearing.

The fair-skinned Wells quipped that she slathers her chil-dren before they go out and leaves her husband notes “to globon the sunscreen until you look like me.”

Cover Girl model Molly Simms hosted the event, which alsorecognized Family Circle magazine for its educational cover-age of skin cancer.

— Laura Klepacki

NEW YORK — Higher costs associated with its SallyHansen products put a wrinkle in Del Laboratories’third-quarter financial results.

For the three months ended Sept. 30, the Uniondale,N.Y.-based cosmetics maker said profits slid by 8.7 percentto $4.7 million, or 48 cents a diluted share, compared with$5.1 million, or 54 cents, in the same period last year. Thecompany said the quarterly results were adversely impactedby higher advertising and display costs in support of its newSally Hansen Healing Beauty product line of skin caremakeup and its core Sally Hansen franchise.

Sales for the period rose 4.7 percent to $99.7 mil-lion from $95.2 million.

“We believe that our ability to increase our advertis-ing and to make such a strong commitment to the brandwill enable us to continue to build depth and breadth

into one of the most successful brand names in our in-dustry,” Dan Wassong, chairman, president and chiefexecutive, said in a statement.

Del said Sally Hansen remains the number-one brandin the mass market nail care category with a 26 percentshare of market for the quarter, according to ACNielsen.

For the nine months, earnings decreased 4.9 percentto $13.9 million, or $1.45 a diluted share, includingcharges of $1.2 million recorded in the second and thirdquarters related to severance costs associated with the re-location of all Farmingdale, N.Y., manufacturing operationsto Rocky Point, N.C. That compares with income in thelike period of last year of $14.6 million, or $1.56, whichincluded an after-tax gain of $1.5 million, or 16 cents,from the sale of vacant land in February. Sales increased8.4 percent to $291.1 million over $268.4 million.

Skin Sense Gala Raises $775G

Higher Costs Trigger Earnings Decline for Del Labs

MARIONNAUD NUMBERS:Parfumeries Marionnaud announcedfirst-half net profits down 38 percentto $9.12 million at current exchangerates, or 7.8 million euros, from$14.73 million, or 12.6 millioneuros, year on year. The Frenchperfumery chain’s operating profitsdipped 9.8 percent to reach $30.04million, or 25.7 million euros, in theperiod. Its sales reached $567.07million (485.1 million euros) in thehalf, up 15.3 percent over first-half2002. “Although sales growthoutside France accelerated to 44percent in the first half, efforts toreorganize and build up the businessin some markets — particularlySpain and Italy — depressedearnings during the period,” thecompany said in a statement.

LIP GLOSS FEVER: Bonne Bell haskicked its lip gloss machine intohigh gear. Next spring, theLakewood, Ohio-based teen brand,will be rolling out Clic-It, a lip glosspen with sponge-tip applicator, andVitaGlossO2, featuring a vitamin-filled formula designed to conditionand protect lips. Then there is Kiss‘n Colors lip color, a creamy formulaoffering high shine in natural-looking soft shades. Hilary HeadrickBell, executive vice president ofstrategic ideation at Bonne Bell,along with several senior executives,unveiled the products at thecompany’s SoHo offices this month.

HALEV TO FIRMENICH: Firmenichappointed Joanne Halev vicepresident of fragrance sales thisweek, a new position. Halev mostrecently handled global accounts atInternational Flavors & Fragrances.

BARNES’ BEAUTY: Celebrity makeupartist Scott Barnes is introducing hisown cosmetics collection. The line,which will debut on QVC in Januarywith seven products priced between$25 and $50, has not been finalized.

LIVE WIRE: According to internationalreports, L’Oréal is partnering withMSN to launch a beauty channelonline in the United Kingdom,called BeautyLive. A L’Oréalspokeswoman confirmed the report.

TOP NOTES

Aloette’s makeup planner.

Susan Arnold and Linda WellsSusan Arnold and Linda Wells

Werner HofmannWerner HofmannMolly SimsMolly Sims Jean-Paul Agon and Karen FonduJean-Paul Agon and Karen Fondu

Jack Stahl and Marc PritchardJack Stahl and Marc Pritchard

Hilary Headrick BellHilary Headrick Bell

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reflecting lower sales in North America that were onlypartially offset by favorable foreign currency transla-tion. Excluding the positive exchange impact, salesdeclined about 5 percent.

The quarter’s results were hit by charges of $5 mil-lion associated with its growth plan, bringing the totalanticipated charges for the year to $31 million. Lastyear, charges for the plan hit $104 million. An addi-tional $25 million next year and after will lift the plan’stotal bill to $160 million.

In addition, the company said it incurred chargestotaling $600,000 for restructuring and additional con-solidation costs, while the third quarter of 2002 includ-ed charges of $4.2 million.

At the same time, Revlon is burning cash evenfaster than anticipated and is expected to seek amend-ments or waivers from lenders to keep it from fallingout of compliance with current credit agreements.

It’s already spent $248 million of a $250 millioncredit agreement, all of a $100 million term loan fromits principal owner, Ronald Perelman’s MacAndrews &Forbes Holdings Inc., and $20 million of another $65million M&F line of credit. At the end of the quarter,long-term debt stood at $1.86 billion, up from $1.75 bil-lion at the end of December 2002.

Still, despite the declines in its liquidity, Jack Stahl,president and chief executive officer of Revlon, contin-ued to express confidence about the brand and optimismabout the future and its ability to attract more funding.

“We have a lot of work to do as we go forward andcontinue to transform our business model,” Stahl saidon a morning conference call. “We are making goodprogress on building growth for the most importantpart of our business.”

Anticipating questions over its liquidity, the ceoreminded investors that the progress Revlon is makingnow requires significant investment, much of it one-time

in nature. “We are confident that this investment behindour brands will absolutely drive value over time,” he said.

Revlon planned for 2003 to set the stage for improve-ments in productivity and efficiencies in 2004 andbeyond, but its critics and much of the financial commu-nity remained skeptical after Thursday’s poor results.

The firm’s shares dropped 22 cents, or 7.7 percent,to end Thursday’s session at $2.65 in New York StockExchange trading. That’s just 57.6 percent of the 52-week high of $4.60 reached last Nov. 15.

One analyst, who did not want to be identified, said,“Things haven’t gotten better, they have gotten worse,and the liquidity shows it. It is not a sustainable situa-tion. There is no chance for the business to supportitself from a cash-flow standpoint.”

George Chalhoub, an analyst with Deutsche Bank,wrote in an August research report, “We calculate thatby year-end 2003, Revlon will have exhausted its newfunds it should receive in 2003, posted $111.5 million inEBITDA and be left with $27 million in total liquidityfrom all sources.”

On the other hand, Amy Low Chasen, an analystwith Goldman Sachs, wrote in a research report thatwhile the financial results are still weak and that near-term results are likely to remain under pressure,fourth-quarter pressures could ease a bit as chargesrelated to the company’s growth initiatives begin toslow. In addition, she credited the company for secur-ing incremental shelf space and distribution in 2004and its more active stance at cost-saving initiatives.

Stahl said one indicator of its progress is the con-sumption growth relative to that of the color cosmeticsarea. According to ACNielsen, the category is down 2.5percent in the first nine months of the year and flat toup slightly when mass retail is included. On the otherhand, the Revlon and Almay brands combined grew at a5 percent clip through September, a dramatic shift com-pared with the past four to five years of share declines.

Stahl said these trends and the firm’s success“restoring the confidence of our retail partners” are“key indicators we are beginning to get traction.”

Declining to offer specific projections for next year,Stahl said while he expects Revlon to continue to ben-efit from growth initiatives, he expects to see benefitsfrom productivity and efficiency initiatives that shouldaccelerate in 2005 and beyond.

Revlon registered a 20 basis-point share improve-ment for its Revlon and Almay brands, significantbecause it came in a soft color category environment.The Revlon brand, in terms of absolute dollar growth,continues to lead the category, as it registered its fifthconsecutive quarterly share gains versus a year ago.Offsetting Revlon, Almay was down in the quarter afterposting share gains over the two previous quarters.Revlon is about three times the size of Almay inabsolute terms, and Almay’s decline does reflect thetiming of marketing and new product introductionsmade last year, the company said.

Stahl also could point to progress made with keyretail customers. “Over the past several months, wehave been successful at securing incremental space atretail for the Revlon and Almay brands for 2004 andincremental distribution next year for not only colorcosmetics but hair color and beauty tools,” he said.“This is a significant shift from the trend the companyexperienced over the years leading up to 2002.”

Thomas McGuire, chief financial officer, said on thecall that Revlon will soon undertake additional cost-saving measures, including strategic sourcing andpackaging rationalization. “The opportunities are realand we are going after them,” he said. “We believethere is a lot of opportunity on the productivity andefficiencies front to drive down our overall cost ofdoing business and improve margins.”

For the nine months, Revlon’s loss amounted to$141.2 million, or $2.36 a diluted share, compared witha net loss of $107.1 million, or $2, in the like period lastyear. Sales for the period advanced 1 percent to $930.8million compared with $906.8 million. Excluding thefavorable impact of foreign currency, sales were flat.

NEW YORK — The dearth of new massmarket fragrance launches inspiredWalgreen Co. to do something radical —seek out a resource to create an exclu-sive scent for its 4,227 doors.

Starting this month, Walgreens is sellinga fragrance from Firmenich made exclu-sively for Walgreens called C’est Moi — It’sMe. Although there are some major launch-es, Walgreens is ready for more. “We had tohelp ourselves,” said Steve Lubin, division-al merchandise manager. The chain ex-pects C’est Moi to grab and keep a spotamong its top 10 selling fragrances.

Neither Walgreens nor Firmenichsources would provide a number, but in-dustry sources estimate the fragrancecould achieve sales of $3 million to $5million.

A stale mass fragrance business hasscared off most vendors from new launch-es; many fragrance houses of theSeventies and Eighties have vanished.According to ACNielsen, women’s fra-grance sales are down almost 16 percentto $471 million for the 52-week period,ended Oct. 28, 2003 versus the same peri-od last year. Men’s scent sales are down6.4 percent to $171 million during thatsame period. The data excludes Wal-Mart.

Twenty years ago, buyers’ officeswere filled with new scents from thelikes of Faberge, Revlon, Max Factor,Jovan, Houbigant and Charles of theRitz. Today, New Dana continues tolabor under many management shiftsleaving Coty Inc. as the only true massfragrance house. There are other play-ers such as Parfums de Coeur, divertedsuppliers and a plethora of bath brands— but these companies are not known

for major fragrance launches.Despite the decline in mass scent

sales, Walgreens has seen its businessflourish, thanks, in part, to the chain’sunwavering support of fragrances. Thechain has increased its share of the fra-grance market in regard to both drugoutlets and mass marketers, accordingto manufacturers’ statistics.

Stores have at least 12 feet of fra-grance plus counter space, and the re-tailer never cut back on the departmentas many of its contemporaries did whensales started to slip.

The Deerfield, Ill.-based chain is one ofthe few in the business with beauty advi-sors in the department as well as depart-ment store-style counters. With few newbrands to keep the momentum going,Walgreens took matters into its own hands.

Rather than slap a Walgreens logo ona bottle of fragrance, Walgreens soughtout a reputable fragrance house to createthe scent. After scrutinizing the efforts ofseveral, Walgreens’ executives selectedFirmenich. New York-based Firmenich isbehind award-winning scents such as

those for Vera Wang, Giorgio Armani andDior. Virtue Development Co. created thebottle and packaging.

“We didn’t think a big fragrance housewould get excited about working with adrug chain,” said Lubin during an inter-view at Firmenich’s headquarters. Thatcomment brought a smile to Theo E.Spilka’s face. Spilka, vice president finefragrances for Firmenich, added, “With4,000-some doors and a growing business,who wouldn’t want to work with them?”

Other retail chains such as CVS withPerennials, Wal-Mart with Mary-Kateand Ashley and Target with SoniaKashuk have launched proprietary fra-grances with modest results. TheWalgreens and Firmenich team believeC’est Moi is very different because it is aclassic rather than a trendy launch.

C’est Moi is designed to be more of aclassic in the spirit of Chanel No. 5. Itsbottle, coloration and box are all de-signed to appeal to Walgreens shopperswho may, or may not, currently be buy-ing fragrance at its stores. “This is awoman comfortable in her own skin. She

doesn’t need the latest scent,” saidKristen Abreu, category manager forfashion and beauty at Walgreens.

“We had looked at the scents thatwere being debuted 18 months ago andwe saw a lot of pinks and blues,” saidSpilka. “Walgreens really wanted some-thing elegant and classic that womenwould be proud to wear.”

Eighteen months in the making, C’estMoi underwent several formulations andrigorous testing before all parties agreedon the final version, a floral blend ofclementine, berries, peonies, orchids,tuberose and hydrangea petals with a drydown marked with Brazilian mahogany.Firmenich perfumer Jean ClaudeDelville led the creation of the scent.

The gold box features a holographiceffect to help it stand out in the store.“We took nothing for granted. This scentwas designed for success,” said Lubin.

To ensure that, Walgreens is turningto its highly regarded network of 10,000trained beauty advisors. They’ll providefree trials of C’est Moi and educate shop-pers about Firmenich and its successes.The counter display also features testers.

To help C’est Moi stand out among theprestige fragrances sold at Walgreens,pricing is maintained under the $20 mark.The 1.7-oz. eau de toilette retails for$19.99, while the 1-oz. is priced at $14.99and a .5-ounce costs $9.99. C’est Moi willbe featured in Walgreens circulars, whichhave a 55 million circulation rate.

With the launch of C’est Moi,Walgreens hopes to return its stores tothe glamour days of fragrances beforeshoppers were lured away with inexpen-sive forms of fragrance such as bath.

Walgreens remains one of the indus-try’s healthiest retailers. When the booksare closed on 2003, it is estimated thechain will have added a new store a day.Goals call for the chain to reach 7,000units by 2010. And that’s an impressivestore count for any mass market fragrance.


Walgreens Designs Its Own Fragrance

Critical MassBy Faye Brookman

Revlon Sees $54.7 Million Loss in 3rd Quarter

Doug Virtue, Kristen Abreu, Theo Spilka, Jean Claude Delville and Steve Lubin.

Continued from page one

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The Beauty Report

By Emily Farris

NEW YORK — With the growing number of beauty firmsparticipating in the philanthropic efforts of NationalBreast Cancer Awareness Month — and intensifyingtheir own individual efforts — October’s already pinkhue is growing ever deeper.

The Estée Lauder Cos., for instance, has distributedpink ribbons and informational materials at retail coun-ters — and donated a portion of the proceeds fromselect products to the Breast Cancer ResearchFoundation — for 10 years. In that time, the BCRF hasraised more than $70 million to fund clinical and genet-ic research on breast cancer.

“Each year, we are able to find new, even more cre-ative ways to continue our fight against this disease,”said Evelyn H. Lauder, senior corporate vice presidentof the Estée Lauder Cos. and founder of the BCRF.

As part of an ongoing effort this year, the EstéeLauder Cos. partnered with the Mall of America inBloomington, Minn., to kick off the fourth annual GlobalLandmarks Illumination Initiative. By bathing some ofthe world’s most recognizable landmarks in pink light —like the Empire State Building, Graceland andthe Royal Opera House in London — theinitiative aims to raise awareness ofbreast cancer. On Oct. 1, the night themall was first illuminated, EvelynLauder, along with Estée Lauderspokesmodel Elizabeth Hurley,attended a gala at the mall. Theylater headed to the facility’s park-ing lot to participate in the firstannual Ribbon of Light Camp-aign, an effort to complement theIllumination Initiative.

“Imagine seeing a huge glowingpink ribbon of light illuminating inthe darkness,” Lauder said. “Now imag-ine that the ribbon is actually made up ofthousands of candles or flashlights orglowsticks, each held by someone whocares passionately about helping uswipe breast cancer off the face of theEarth. And finally, imagine hundreds ofthese ‘human’ ribbons uniting on Oct. 1 to kick offBreast Cancer Awareness Month in all locations acrossthe globe. That’s our goal for the ribbon of light.” Morethan 1,000 people formed the ribbon in the mall’s park-ing lot that night.

The next day, Lauder and Hurley hosted a breakfastat the mall’s branch of Nordstrom, where they joinedBob Middlemas, executive vice president and regionalmanager for the Midwest for Nordstrom, and 75 VIPcustomers. “I’m sure, like me, you feel enormouslyproud to be a part of this effort,” Hurley told the crowdat Nordstrom. “We all know someone who has beentouched by breast cancer, and it’s important that wecontinue to work toward finding a cure.”

The pair later made personal appearances atBloomingdale’s, where even beauty consultants fromcompeting stores showed up, and at Macy’s, whereexclusive T-shirts and lipsticks were sold. “It’s been ourprivilege to partner with a number of the Estée Lauder

Cos. divisions to raise awarenessand funds to support this valuableresearch,” said Ed Beuchel, gener-

al manager of the Macy’s door atthe Mall of America.

After leaving Minnea-polis, Lauder traveled toWashington, D.C., whereshe attended another EstéeLauder-sponsored eventand participated in anotherRibbon of Light ceremony,this time at Hecht’s, withabout 200 people.

The Estée Lauder Cos.also invited colleges anduniversities across thecountry to participate inthe Ribbon of Light cam-paign and encouraged theschools to distribute pinkribbons and Breast CancerAwareness Campaign book-marks. Cornell, Harvardand Princeton were among

the 27 participating universities. As well, most of Estée Lauder’s divi-

sions — including Aveda, Bobbi Brown,Clinique, Estée Lauder, La Mer, Originsand Stila — all sold products benefitingthe BCRF.

During the month of October, Avedadonated $1 from the sale of each productin its All-Sensitive line, while BobbiBrown donated a portion of the salesfrom its Tulle Lip Color and Rose SugarShimmer Lip Gloss. Clinique created aspecial pink metallic lip palette of 10 ofits best-selling shades in a limited-edi-tion mirrored case, while Estée Lauderoffered three special products: the PinkRibbon Compact, the Pink Ribbon Pin andthe Pink Ribbon Lipstick Traveler. La Mermade a donation to the foundation for every2-oz. jar of Crème de la Mer it sold andOrigins donated $1 from the sale of every APerfect World Intensely Hydrating BodyCream with white tea or A Perfect WorldHighly Hydrating Body Lotion with white tea.Stila’s limited-edition Breast Cancer Awareness Lip GlazeCompact was decorated with a pink ribbon and containedfour mint-scented lip glazes “created for the cause.”

At the beginning of the month, all divisions of theEstée Lauder Cos. joined together for a fund-raisingeffort called the Sale-a-Bration. Held in Lauder’s NewYork headquarters, the event gave employees a chance

to buy deeply discounted products fromeach of the company’s divisions, with allprofits going to the BCRF.

Always a big money-maker for breast can-cer awareness, Avon has been raising moneyto fight the disease since 1955 and in 1992 the

company initiated the Avon BreastCancer Research Crusade. Since

the Crusade began, Avon has raised morethan $250 million to support breast cancerresearch and care organizations aroundthe world through product sales, walks,concerts and special events.

This year, Avon held its third annualAvon Foundation awards event at Tavern

on the Green. The Oct. 14 event, fittinglytitled Kiss Goodbye to Breast Cancer, raised

more than $2.3 million. Part of the funds were raised through a

silent auction that included tickets to eventslike the MTV Video Awards, a Simon andGarfunkel concert and the U.S. Open. Tennisstars Serena and Venus Williams donated tennisoutfits while limited edition bags designed by

Debbie Brooks were also available for bid. Brian Connolly, vice president of the Avon Foundation,

served as a cheerleader for the auction and urged atten-dees to reach for their corporate checkbooks. The crowd ofabout 900 was also treated to an acoustic performance bypop singer Jewel.

Throughout the evening, Serena Williams was hon-


Evelyn Lauder, Leonard

Lauder and Elizabeth Hurley

at the Sale-a-Bration.

Philosophy’s Remember.

Jewel performed at

Avon’s Kiss Goodbye to

Breast Cancer benefit.

Ooohlala’s candle

for the cause.

Beauty Firms Think Pink▲

Andrea Jung and Serena Williams

Donna Karan’s

Cashmere Mist

Candle.

ored with the Celebrity Role Model award andNancy E. Davidson, M.D., director of the JohnsHopkins Kimmel Cancer Center’s BreastCancer Program, was given the MedicalAdvancement Award for her investigationinto the biology of breast cancer. RandiRosenberg accepted an award on behalf ofthe Young Survival Coalition, a network ofbreast cancer survivors dedicated to theissues unique to young women and breastcancer. Other honorees included GwenDarien, publisher and editor in chief ofMAMM magazine, Avon Pink RibbonCrusader Nancy Utech and her daughterCarole Utech. Barbara Jo Kirshbaum ofUpland, Calif., and Robin Steiner ofPhoenix, Ariz., were also recognized formaking large donations to the Crusade.

Avon representatives also kept busy inOctober selling seven selected products forthe Avon Breast Cancer Crusade collec-tion. The collection included a blackumbrella decorated with Avon Crusade’ssignature pink ribbon for $7.50; a glossy,black vinyl cosmetics case with the pinkribbon for $5, and a 10-oz. white candlewith a pink rose fragrance in a clear glass

tumbler with the Crusade’s signature pink ribbon for $6.50.The Crusade collection also included the Crusade BrilliantMoisture Lip Color for $4 and a writing pen with a refill-able black cartridge for $3. A 7-inch teddy bear with a pinkribbon T-shirt sold for $4. Avon sold three jewelry items inthe collection: a pin available in two designs (satin-finishedgold tone or silver tone) for $3, a quartz watch for $20 and apendant necklace for $15.

All of the Breast Cancer Crusade prod-ucts are sold year-round, with new prod-ucts introduced throughout the year. Onehundred percent of the proceeds fromproduct sales are donated to the AvonFoundation, a public charity dedicated toawareness and education, screening and diag-nosis, treatment, support and services, and sci-entific research. The foundation’s beneficiariesrange from cancer-care centers to community-based, nonprofit health programs.

Avon also held its Walk for BreastCancer series in eight U.S. cities:Boston, Chicago, Cincinnati, LosAngeles, New York, SanFrancisco, Portland, Ore., andWashington, D.C. All of the netproceeds from the Avon walkswere donated to breast cancerresearch, education, treatmentand support services.

Another event, The RevlonRun/Walk for Women, is probablyone of the most well-known walksdedicated to breast cancer awareness.It’s held annually in May in New York andLos Angeles and has raised more than $25 million, butRevlon’s contributions don’t stop there. ThroughoutOctober, a portion of the proceeds from five Revlon Kissfor the Cure lipstick shades was donated to the NationalBreast Cancer Coalition, a grass-roots organization thatsupports education programs and works to changebreast cancer-related public policies.

Three of the five shades — Winning Roses,Courageous Crimson and Resilient Raisin — were limit-

ed-edition shades and were sold with the otherKiss for the Cure shades, Sweetwater Pinkand Mauve So Moist, at mass drugstoresnationwide. For each of the five shades soldin October, Revlon donated $1 to the fund.

Mary Kay has been involved in fund-raising for cancer research since 1987, and

in 1996 established the Mary Kay AshCharitable Foundation, a nonprofit foun-dation that provides research money forcancers affecting women, includingbreast cancer. Recipients of Mary KayAsh corporate donations include theSusan G. Komen Breast Cancer Fund, TheBreast Cancer Fund and the AmericanCancer Society.

While large companies raisedmoney by the millions, smaller compa-nies did their part, too.

In 2002, Philosophy raised$60,000 for theWomen’s CancerResearch Fund, andwith a new partner-ship with QVC,

Cristina Carlino, the creator and chief executive officer ofPhilosophy, hopes to raise that number to $500,000 in 2003.

“Breast cancer is every woman’s cause,” Carlino said.That’s why she designed Remember, a tangerine milk-based shower gel, especially for Breast CancerAwareness Month. Carlino decorated the 16-oz. bottlewith a pink ribbon and “Unforgettable,” a poem shewrote for women who have experienced breast cancer.Remember is available at Nordstrom, Sephora, QVC.comand Philosophy.com for $20. All of Remember’s net prof-its are donated to the WCRF year-round.

Tweezerman adorned its most popular tweezers withthe distinctive pink ribbon and donated 50 cents from the

sale of each Pink Ribbon Slant Tweezer to pro-grams dedicated to the fight against breast can-cer, including Cancercare, a national nonprofitorganization whose mission is to provide freeprofessional help to people with all cancersthrough counseling, education, informationand referral and direct financial assistance.

Del Laboratories, the manufacturer ofSally Hansen products, has been donatingto the Carol M. Baldwin Breast CancerResearch Fund for six years. Baldwin,mother of the Baldwin brothers of act-ing fame, is a breast cancer survivorand activist.

“Carol Baldwin approached us in the very begin-ning in her efforts to establish the fund,” said BillMcMenemy, executive vice president of marketing forDel Laboratories. “We were impressed by her strugglewith the disease and with her sincerity in fundingresearch to find a cure for a disease that is so devas-tating for the many women and families around us.”To help the cause, Del developed six shades of SallyHansen nail polish for Breast Cancer AwarenessMonth. Each bottle is decorated with a removable pin-on pink ribbon and each shade of pink is named espe-cially for breast cancer awareness: Brave, Dignified,Powerful, Self-Confident, Strong and Vital. The PinkRibbon products are only sold in drugstores through-out October, but McMenemy said Del participates inother events and fundraisers to benefit the fund on anongoing basis. Del has raised more than $175,000 forthe fund.

While Sephora sold many of the brands participatingin Breast Cancer Awareness Month, like Philosophy,Clinique and Stila, the store sold its own Super ShimmerThink Pink Gloss for $10 and donated a portion of theproceeds to The Big Bam Foundation, an organizationthat provides mammograms, treatments and surgeries touninsured and underinsured women under 40.

— With contributions from Faye Brookmanand Julie Naughton


A shade from Avon’s

Crusade line.

Stila’s limited-

edition Lip Glaze

compact.

Walkers cross the Brooklyn

Bridge during the Avon Walk.

▲

Tweezerman’s

pink ribbon

tweezers.

Revlon’s Kiss

for the Cure

collection.

© 2

003

Esté

e La

uder

Inc.

Introducing the new fantasy in fragrance

www.esteelauder.com/beyondparadise

an intoxication of the senses


By Rosemary Feitelberg and Karyn Monget

NEW YORK — The fashion and apparel industries areincreasingly teaming up to shout a message loud andclear about breast cancer awareness.

Whether it’s ready-to-wear designer Betsey Johnson,bra specialist Wacoal with its Donna Karan Intimates andDKNY Underwear licenses, activewear giant Reebok orDanskin — which provided a T-shirt designed by StellaMcCartney, modeled in an ad featuring Nicole Kidmanand sold at Saks Fifth Avenue — more companies arecoming out with creative ways to market and promotebreast cancer awareness.

A majority of these campaigns have successfully raisedup to $500,000 or more in donations for organizationsincluding the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundationand the National Breast Cancer Coalition Foundation.And a number of fashion firms are making donations ayear-round commitment, with many generally contribut-ing $1 to $25 for each product purchase for breast cancerresearch, consumer education and support groups.

The cause has been given tremendous exposurethrough motion picture, TV and sports stars. A key exam-ple features celebs like Serena Williams, Sarah MichelleGellar and Helen Hunt, who have appeared in ads plug-ging breast cancer awareness for limited-editionLilly Pulitzer scarves. Even world-famous jewel-ers such as Harry Winston are getting in on theact with a upcoming gala dinner and auc-tion scheduled Nov. 15.

But for many consumers, especiallythose who are breast cancer sur-vivors, the glam and the glitz onlybrushes the surface. For them,the fashion foundation is inti-mate apparel, a category thatoffers women empower-ment, making it possible tocontinue active lifestyles.With this idea in mind, post-mastectomy products have come along way over the past 25 years.

Looking back to the late Seventies andearly Eighties, women typically had fewchoices of prostheses following breastcancer surgery, and those productswere uncomfortable and artificiallooking: heavy, unattractive siliconeequalizers that chaffed the skin andgave a hard, unnatural silhouette.

The picture has changed dramati-cally, especially over the past decade, sinceRuth Handler, the creator of the Barbie doll andformer chief executive officer of Mattel Corp., started up aprosthetic company called Nearly Me, with products thatbegan to address post-surgical, as well as lifestyle, needs.

Today, with innovative technology and updated prod-ucts that still use surgical-type silicone, there’s a widerange of specialty products in various custom-madeshapes and sizes, all pliable and softly wrapped in skin-like polyeurothane in featherlight adaptations. There areeven color choices — tawny for African-American women,ivory for Asian women and blush for Caucasian women.

The demand for more specialty products that fit differ-ent lifestyles — whether it’s a sports bra, a lacy underwirestyle, exercisewear, swimwear or a cami with a comfort-able built-in shelf bra — is being driven by the number ofyounger women who are breast cancer survivors.

According to the National Alliance of Breast CancerOrganizations, breast cancer is the most common form ofcancer among women in the U.S., with more than twomillion breast cancer survivors alive in America.

A woman’s chances of getting breast cancer changeswith age, according to the National Cancer InstituteCancer Facts:

● By age 30: 1 out of 2,000.● By age 40: 1 out of 233.● By age 50: 1 out of 53.● By age 60: 1 out of 22.● By age 70: 1 out of 13.● By age 80: 1 out of 9.One of the main reasons there’s been such a demand

for innovative product is the number of younger womenwhose lifestyles have been impacted by breast cancer,according to industry executives. They want fashionable,dual-purpose foundations and lingerie that reflect theirfashion taste in rtw, sportswear and active apparel,whether it’s lacy and frilly, or sleek and tailored.

Among the leading intimate apparel makers of post-mastectomy products are Amoena/Coloplast, AnitaInternational Corp., American Breast Care and Camp.But a growing number of national bra brands and makersof fashion bras are being merchandised in specialty braareas of foundations departments at major stores andboutiques. They include Wacoal, Bali, Grenier, Tatiana

and Fashion Forms, which does The Water Bra, a waterand gel-filled bra that’s being bought by women who wanta post-mastectomy bra or want cleavage enhancement.

Beth Higgins, owner of Intimate Image, a specialtychain that exclusively features postmastectomy merchan-dise as well as related accessories with stores in WoodlandHills and Santa Ana, Calif., said: “It’s not an older woman’sdisease anymore. There are lots of breast cancer survivorswho are younger, are active in sports and other aspects oftheir lives, and we [manufacturers and retailers] are com-ing up to the plate with new product and new options.

“These younger women represent a sense of empow-erment, and they are confident and feel good aboutthemselves,” said Higgins.

Higgins, a former foundations fitter of prosthesesat Nordstrom, said her best-selling brand of prosthe-ses is Amoena, followed by Camp. But she noted that“lots of women are wearing The Water Bra because it’svery comfortable.”

Ann Deal, owner of Fashion Forms, said she intro-duced lightweight silicone-blend enhancers in 1998,retailing for $50 in a gift box.

“We sold $385,000 the first six months. Eighty percentof our business is for the customer who wants to lookenhanced in a bra and dress, but 20 percent are womenwho buy prostheses. It’s been a stable business, and we get

so many letters and e-mails from women who have hadbreast cancer,” said Deal.

Bob Vitale, vice president of sales at WacoalAmerica, said the company has been involved intwo breast cancer awareness initiatives since

1999: a year-round Fit for the Curepromotion at more than 600major store doors, a trademarkWacoal licensed from the

Komen foundation; and promo-tions at 800 major stores for

Wacoal’s Awareness Bra. Thenewest Awareness Bra is a sports

style, retailing at a suggested $54. Afull-figure style sells for $56 and a soft-

cup number is $40. Vitale said $1 is donated to the Komen

organization for every fitting of bras by Wacoaland its licensed Donna Karan Intimates and

DKNY Underwear names, even if a woman makesno purchase. For the Awareness Bra promotion in

October, National Breast Cancer Awareness Month, thecompany donates an additional $2 per purchase, totaling$3. By the end of 2003, Wacoal will have donated over$275,000 to the Komen foundation from its Fit for theCure campaigns and sales of its Awareness Bra.

Helping to push the cause this fall at Wacoal was theappearance at Saks Fifth Avenue of Olympic champion,ABC Sports commentator and breast cancer survivor,Peggy Fleming.

“After being diagnosed with breast cancer in 1998, Irealized that it would take all that I had to beat it,” saidFleming. “Early detection and education saved my life. Iknow it can save others.”

Karen Neuburger, founder and president of the sleep-wear brand that bears her name, said she’s expandedher breast cancer awareness products to be a year-roundbusiness that includes pillows, and socks, panties andcamis of microfiber.

“We started out with our pink ribbon pajamas of soft-ly brushed cotton knit eight years ago, and we freshen upthe design every couple of years,” said Neuburger. “Butthe pajamas always feature logos saying mothers, daugh-ters, sisters, cousins, neighbors and friends.”

Neuburger would not give sales figures, but industryobservers said that when Neuburger’s breast cancer aware-ness pajamas were worn as part of a slumber party on TheOprah Show, sales immediately skyrocketed with estimatedsales of over $100,000 for the specialty pajama. She notedthat her company makes a $2 donation for every purchaseto the Y-Me Breast Cancer Organization, a support group.

Meanwhile, as part of its Key to the Cure initiative, SaksFifth Avenue has raised $500,000 through the sale of aStella McCartney-designed T-shirt. Nicole Kidmanappeared in a national public service announcement wear-ing the Danskin T-shirt. In the past four years, the campaignhas raised a total of $10 million, said a Saks spokesman.

This year is the first time Saks has expanded theproduct beyond breast cancer awareness to include non-profit organizations that help fight other forms of cancer

that afflict women. Sixty groups will benefit from thisyear’s effort. Saks has partnered with a few companiesto sell select items that benefit the cause, includingBurberry, which designed a hot pink trenchcoat.

Regarding the goodwill support from the active andrtw communities, Betsey Johnson hosted a shoppingnight earlier this month in her Melrose Avenue store andraised $1,600 for the National Breast Cancer CoalitionFoundation in two hours. A breast cancer survivor,Johnson said these events “keep crucial money flowing.”

“Breast cancer is increasing all the time. We have tokeep plowing away at it,” she said. “This is dear to myheart because I’ve lived it.”

Shoppers don’t hesitate to ask Johnson about herexperience, which she is happy to share. “What I like isthey feel comfortable talking to me about breast cancer.I bring it up as often as I can,” she said. “I want to getgirls to get those checkups and do self-exams. Anybodywho wants to talk to me about it can at any time.”

Next year, the NBCF will honor Johnson with anaward. In addition, the designer has partnered withHarry Winston to host a private dinner and auction at theHarry Winston store on Nov. 15. The event will benefit thenew breast cancer center at Columbia Presbyterian.

Lilly Pulitzer has teamed up with Ford MotorCompany for “Get Tied to the Cause.” The designer hasdeveloped a limited edition silk scarf that will benefit theKomen foundation, the national sponsor. The $30 pinkand green item is available at the designer’s 49 stores andher Web site, as well as at 31 Bloomingdale’s locationsincluding the two new stores in Atlanta, according to aPulitzer spokeswoman. The company is donating $25 ofeach purchase to the foundation, she added.

Pulitzer expects to raise more than $1 million throughsales of the scarves, a company spokeswoman said.Rosario Dawson, Serena Williams, Sarah Michelle Gellarand Helen Hunt are among the female celebrities appear-ing in print ads plugging the cause. Ford partnered withCondé Nast and Hearst Publications to promote thescarves through ads in their various publications.

Pulitzer has been a longtime supporter of the Komenfoundation, especially its Philadelphia affiliate, due to

Banding Together for the CauseWacoal’s year-round

Fit for the Cure

promotions is in

more than 600

doors. (Inset)

DKNY’s customized

pink watch.

Wacoal’s year-round

Fit for the Cure

promotions is in

more than 600

doors. (Inset)

DKNY’s customized

pink watch.

“Early detection and educationsaved my life. I know it cansave others.” — Peggy Fleming

PHOT

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that location’s proximity to the company’s King ofPrussia, Penn., headquarters. Pulitzer and Ford donatedmore than a half million bandannas to supporters at the113 Race for the Cure events.

Reebok has partnered with Brigham & Women’sHospital in Boston to produce the “Breast CancerSurvivor’s Guide to Fitness DVD.” It contains more thanfour hours of treatment information, surgical optionsand comprehensive exercise programs.

“Reebok is all about mind, body and soul and this is allabout women’s well-being,” a Reebok spokesman said.“We’ve never done this before but we wanted to do some-thing that builds on our heritage as a women’s brand.”

A portion of proceeds from the $50 DVD will be donat-ed to the Brigham & Women’s Hospital Breast CancerQuality of Life Fund. The DVD is being sold at Reebok’sstore here and at its Web site.

Carolyn Kaelin M.D., director of the ComprehensiveBreast Health Center at Brigham, is doing a media tourto get the word out on Reebok’s initiative. She wasrecently diagnosed with breast cancer herself. ReebokUniversity master trainer Josie Gardiner, a breast can-cer survivor, is also promoting the cause, along with fel-low trainer Joy Prouty.

DKNY developed a limited-edition watch with a pinkband, mother-of-pearl face and Swarovski crystal crown.The company sold 2,000 of the $150 items and donated 30percent of the proceeds to The Breast Cancer ResearchFoundation, an organization established by EvelynLauder that is dedicated to supporting outstanding clin-ical and genetic research relating to the causes, treat-ments and prevention of breast cancer.

Lauder — along with Myra Biblowit, Jason Binn andLouise Stern — served on the Madison Avenue BID’sPink Ribbon Project’s honorary committee. From Oct. 14-28, 75 Madison Avenue stores donated 10 percent of theirsales of designated items to benefit BCRF, Mount SinaiHospital and Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center.

The group expects to raise $50,000, according toMatthew Bauer, president of the Madison Avenue BID.

Gucci, Bruno Magli, BCBG, Ghurka, LEI, Malia Mills,K.C. Thompston New York, Chronometrique, VBH andBaccarat are among the newcomers to this year’s effort.

French Dressing Jeans, which is owned by KeystoneIndustries, is donating $1 for every shopper who tried on apair of the brand’s jeans in October, a company spokes-woman said. The Montreal-based company is keeping track

of donations by having shoppers sign a form. In addition,the company donates 50 cents for breast cancer awarenesswith each purchase of its jeans throughout the year.

To drum up some interest in the October initiative, FrenchDressing sent stores posters, countercards, postcards,camera-ready ads, pink breast cancer awareness ribbons andbookmarks imprinted with breast exams for customers.


The Avon Foundation Breast Cancer Crusade raises fundsand awareness to support access to care and help find a curefor breast cancer, with a focus on the medically underserved.

Visit us at www.avonfoundation.org and help makebreast cancer a distant memory.

Help make us obsolete.

Avon Foundation is a 501 (c) (3) public charity.

From left: French Dressing donated money for each shopper who tried on its jeans this month. Helen Hunt belts a Lilly Pulitzer

scarf for the cause. Peggy Fleming lends her support at Saks.

The HBA Report

By Andrea Nagel

ATLANTA — Shampoo makers are aiming to targetmore than blondes in 2004. More than Caucasians, too.They’re even looking beyond women, for that matter.In an effort to increase the hair care category in an en-vironment that’s experiencing only brand trading,marketers are digging deep to tap the untapped con-sumer, and are discovering that brunettes, Hispanicsand men could be the key to success for 2004.

Next year’s newest and most innovative hair careproducts were discussed among hundreds of retail andmanufacturer attendees during this year’s ECRM haircare conference in Atlanta, held Oct. 27-Oct. 29.

One of the most talked about launches at the showcomes from John Frieda with Brilliant Brunette, a 13-item hair care and styling line that looks to complementthe company’s 1998 hair care success, Sheer Blonde.

“We had always wanted to go after brunettes, it wasalways a live discussion,” said Brigitte King, assistantvice president of marketing. But learning why brunettehair is different, and then addressing the issues withthe relevant technology, needed to be researched andinvestigated before a line could be launched.

“To be true to the John Frieda philosophy we knewwe had to understand what is different about brown hairand what it needs prescriptively. Frizz Ease [anotherFrieda success] and Sheer Blonde were both foundedthat way,” King said.

Kao, John Frieda’s parent as of August 2002, is reallythe company that brings the special technology to thenew line. Japan-based Kao is one of the country’slargest beauty companies and undoubtedly has an in-sight into dark hair needs. Subsequently, the technolo-gy used in Brilliant Brunette reaches beyond the out-side layer of hair into the cortex to deliver malic acid,which comes from apples, along with Kao’s “patentedpenetration enhancers,” to bring out the tonalities,highlights and lowlights that make brown hair unique.

But King said the multidimensional shine technolo-gy used in Brilliant Brunette is not the line’s only inno-vation. “What stands us apart is that there are a lot ofhigh-end lines that have addressed brown hair, butthey are color depositing lines that work with dyes tobring out color and richness. We do that with non-colordepositing technology.”

In addition, formulas have been designed for vari-ous levels of brown hair. Amber to Maple variants aredesigned for lighter brunettes, and contain tea leaf tohelp strengthen hair and make it luminescent.Chestnut to espresso formulas, which are meant fordarker brunettes, use cocoa bean extract. Shampoosare available in Shine Release, Shine ReleaseMoisturizing and Shine Release Volumizing formulas.Light Reflecting conditioner has crushed pearls tobring out hair’s luster.

Since John Frieda believes in regimens for con-sumers, stylers round out the brand. There’s ShineShock, which is considered the star product of thestyling line, a leave-on glosser to be used after sham-pooing. There’s also Satin Shine, a finishing cream;Simply Sleek, a straightening balm; Model Control, afirm hold gel, and Hold True, a long-lasting finishingspray. Products begin shipping to stores in Januaryand will retail for $6.50 for shampoo and conditioners,and $5.50 for styling products.

King would not comment on the line’s estimatedsales, but sources at ECRM estimated that BrilliantBrunette could generate 2 1/2 times the sales Sheer

Blonde generated its first year on shelves, or $50 mil-lion. ECRM sources added that the company will likelysupport Brilliant Brunette with nearly $20 million inadvertising.

“There is a much larger demographic that can re-late to this,” King said, noting that 60 percent ofwomen are brunettes, compared with 20 percent whoare blonde.

But there are consumers aside from brunettes tar-

geted by attendees of ECRM. Men, it seems, are the next group for the taking. No fewer than three men’s lines were introduced at

the show, including one by L’Oréal under its Vive brand.Continental Consumer Products, the makers of

Salon Grafix, is launching an eight-item men’s haircare line in February under the M Professional brand.(The hair care line has no relation to the MProfessional cosmetics brand that was phased out ofthe mass market several years ago.) M Professional,which includes a volumizing shampoo and conditioner,a 2-in-1, control hair spray, styling cream, pomade,light hold gel and firm hold gel, will be line priced at$5.99 and supported with TV and print advertisements.TV spots feature TV game show host Chuck Woolery. MProfessional will be merchandised in the general haircare set of drugstores, since “women make most of thehousehold purchases,” said Scott Petchul, vice presi-dent of the company. “Men only visit [the men’s groom-ing section] every three months,” he added.

Idelle Labs, a newly formed company by Helen ofTroy, is out to capture the men’s market, too. PerrySansone, vice president of sales, said the company is cap-italizing on the brand equity of Vitalis, a decades-old hairtreatment brand, by expanding it into an eight-item haircare line. Three shampoos, two conditioners, a pumphair spray, an aerosol hair spray and a gel mousse beginshipping to retailers Feb. 1. Each will retail for $3.99.

Hispanics are also being recognized as untappedbeauty consumers. JossClaude, the largest salon chainin Latin America with approximately 40 stores, islaunching a hair care line called Formula Latina. Theline will consist of 12 shampoos, conditioners, stylingand finishing products. Labels will have Spanish andEnglish copy, and the brand will be supported by a $3.5million ad campaign, including radio spots in 10 U.S.cities. The JossClaude business was founded 27 yearsago by Frenchmen Joss Lfergan and Claude Joanin,who fell in love with Mexico City while vacationing.

Reviews are mixed on whether brunettes, Hispanicsand men will help boost the category’s 1.29 percent dip,but the $5 billion hair category doesn’t have much tolose. As one ECRM attendee said, “These segments areall untapped and present an opportunity.” But anothercocked his head in doubt, describing the Hispanic andmen’s market “as big as a minute.”


SEEN AND HEARD AT ECRM: AdvancedResearch Labs is launching nine sku’sof Smooth ‘n Shine Repair Xtreme, anextension of the Smooth ‘n Shine line;Alberto-Culver is taking VO5 to a mid-tier pricepoint, $1.99 to $2.39, withVO5 Nourishing Oasis, a line ofshampoo and conditioners with afragrance that is “activated by the heatof the shower;” Charles Flora isshipping Color Smash Hair Color toleading drugstore chains nationwide;Goody has added a teen-tween hairaccessory line to target 8-to-15 yearolds; Henri Bernard Cosmetics is aimingto get its Les Karites hair and body

products, which are formulated withshea butter, onto U.S. drugstoreshelves; Key Brands is out to grab theteen market with 310.foxy, a six-item,color-coded hair care line with formulasfor curly and straight hair styles; KidsCare is testing gr! in salons, a tweenhair care line packaged in soft pinkcontainers with expectations to launchit in mass stores in the third quarter of2004; L&N will ship Faux Hair-HypeHair, a line of hair extensions, forAfrican Americans during the first half;P&G’s Pantene Full & Thick ships toretailers in January — the five-sku linepromises to add 35 percent more

volume to hair; Maybelline-Garnier islaunching 100 percent color, an 18-item permanent hair color line and isnow hosting a launch for beautyeditors in Paris; Marc AnthonyCosmetics is out to target redheadswith Rich Reds, a line of shampooand hair treatments, and is alsolaunching an “Ask the Expert”column in HEB circulars in the firstquarter to be penned by Anthony;Perfect Results, a midwest salonbrand, is expanding to mass storeswith an ethnic hair care line underthe same brand; Posner Cosmeticshas repackaged its hair care line,including cult classic Posner LightBergamot; Clairol is capitalizing on itsP&G sisterhood by includingcontainers of Pantene conditionerwith the purchase of Ultress, HerbalEssences and Nice n’ Easy boxes of

hair color; Progressive Beauty Brandshas entered Zellers with its Mossimobeauty line and has also repackagedand expanded Hair Therapy toinclude six Iced Tea hair sku’s;Schwartzkopf & Dep has streamlinedits gel bottle, relaunched Agree haircare to a 99 cent brand, and islaunching mass’ first hairstraightening kit under the Lilt brandfor approximately $6.99; Soft Sheen-Carson continues to test its ethnic merchandising set inEckerd stores and is relaunching Dark& Lovely; Vogue International isexpanding Curls Up and Stay Straightstyling products into mousse, gels,shampoos and conditioners andStraight Arrow products, the maker ofMane ‘n Tail, is gearing up for a twoweek advertising blitz in New York’s Times Square.

SNIPPETS

Brilliant Brunette aims to bring out darker hair tonalities, lowlights and highlights.

Vitalis hair care looks to capture male consumers.

Formula Latina targets Hispanics.

Niche Markets Are Hair’s Next Hope

Mass’ first hair straightener hits

shelves in 2004.

M A K E - U P A R T C O S M E T I C S

From bright blue eye shadow to out-to-there hair, runway beauty trends for spring 2004 are anything but boring.

MAKEUP

“Brazil.” — Mary Greenwell at Paul Smith

“Jean Shrimpton in a Russ Meyer movie — ‘Faster Pussycat KillKill.’” — Val Garland for MAC at DSquared

“Marlene Dietrich.” — Pat McGrath at Christian Dior

“A shipwrecked Victorian maiden.” — Jeanine Lobell for Stila atNicole Miller

“A woman who’s been on the road for awhile.” — Tom Pécheux forMAC at DKNY

HAIR

“Native American thick hair.” — Eugene Souleiman at Donna Karan

“Marilyn Monroe and Anna Magnani.” — Guido Palau at Prada

“Jerry Hall in the late Seventies.” — Guido Palau at Versace

“Chrissie Hynde and Marianne Faithfull.” — Sam McKnight at Elspeth Gibson

“Alfred Hitchcock and Grace Kelly.” — Orlando Pita at Oscar de la Renta

“The Thirties.” — Orlando Pita at Carolina Herrera

“Chic preppy girls.” — Jimmy Paul for Bumble and bumble at Bill Blass

Behind The Scenes

Valentino

Makeup by Pat McGrath

Hair by Eugene Souleiman

Donna Karan



Chanel

Makeup for Stéphane Marais

Hair by Odile Gilbert

Diane von

Furstenberg

Makeup by Niki

Pashalidis for

Diane von

Furstenberg

Beauty

Hair by

Frédéric Fekkai

Diane von

Furstenberg

Makeup by Niki

Pashalidis for

Diane von

Furstenberg

Beauty

Hair by

Frédéric Fekkai

Narciso Rodriguez

Makeup by Dick Page


Narciso Rodriguez

Makeup by Dick Page


Calvin Klein

Makeup by

Charlotte Tilbury

Hair by Guido Palau

Fendi

Makeup by Maria Olsen

Hair by Orlando Pita

Pucci

Makeup by

Stéphane Marais

Hair by Odile

Gilbert

Pucci

Makeup by

Stéphane Marais

Hair by Odile

Gilbert

Matthew Williamson

Makeup by Bobbi Brown for

Bobbi Brown Cosmetics

Hair by Adam Reed for Charles Worthington

Roberto Cavalli

Makeup by Stéphane Marais

Hair by Odile Gilbert

Nanette Lepore

Makeup by Jun Funahashi

for Lola Cosmetics

Hair by Leon Torman for Redken

Where Inspiration came from this seasonI’D LIKE TO THANK...

The Beauty Report WWD, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 31, 200318


The Blue Period: From cobalt smoky eyes to bright blue mascara to eye shadowswept across the face in a masklike pattern, makeup artists are eyeing all shadesof blue for spring.

In the Pink: Whether a petal pink or an in-your-face fuchsia, pink in all formsproved to be spring’s favorite lip color.

You Glow, Girl: The eyes, the cheeks, the lips, even the collarbones had one thingin common — they glowed. From Pat McGrath’s shimmery pink collarbones atDonna Karan to Charlotte Tilbury’s gold cheekbone highlights at Calvin Klein,shine was fine this season.

Skin Deep: Don’t have perfect skin? Invest in the best concealer you can find.Perfect skin with a hint of a tan was ubiquitous, often set off by a toffee or choco-late-shaded eye.

Looking Up: Updos continued to roam the runways, with one, well, twist: theselooks were far from perfect. Messy buns, destroyed chignons, bad-girl braids —the point was to show that the girl isn’t a prude.

Sleeping In: The bedhead look was front and center this season, with celebrities ranging from Marilyn Monroe to Marianne Faithfull to Jerry Hall serving as muses.

Just Teasin’: Throw out the flat iron: when it comes to hair, stylists are turning upthe volume — in many cases, by dampening hair, braiding it, drying it andunbraiding it, creating luxuriant waves and texture.

TRENDS

Celine

Makeup by Tom Pécheux


Celine

Makeup by Tom Pécheux


Sophia Kokosalaki

Makeup by Val Garland for MAC

Hair by Guido Palau

Yves Saint Laurent



Versus


Hair by Guido Palau

Blumarine

Makeup by Tom Pécheux for MAC

Hair by Sam McKnight

for Pantene Pro-V

Michael Kors

Makeup by Dick Page


Nicole Farhi

Makeup by Lisa Butler


Ralph Lauren

Makeup by Tom

Pécheux

Hair by Serge

Normant

Ralph Lauren

Makeup by Tom

Pécheux

Hair by Serge

Normant

Zac Posen

Makeup by Tom

Pécheux for

MAC

Hair by Guido

Palau

Zac Posen

Makeup by Tom

Pécheux for

MAC

Hair by Guido

Palau

DKNY

Makeup by Tom

Pécheux for MAC

Hair by Jimmy Paul

for Bumble and

bumble

Emporio Armani

Makeup by Mary Greenwell

Hair by Aldo Coppola

Emporio Armani

Makeup by Mary Greenwell

Hair by Aldo Coppola

Carolina Herrera

Makeup by Gucci

Westman for MAC


PHOT

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RICK

SEN,

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HARD

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JEN

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M A K E - U P A R T C O S M E T I C S

SPRING 04 INTERNATIONAL COLLECTIONS...TO ALL THOSE BEHIND THE SCENES, BACKSTAGE, ON THE RUNWAY...STYLEMAKERS ALL, THANKS.

By Patty Huntingdon

SYDNEY — From fireworkslaunched off floating KarlLagerfeld effigies under theSydney Harbour Bridge to life-size, laser-cut Karl silhouettesscattered around the partyvenue, the designer was con-spicuous (yet absent) at theSydney Opera House Thurs-day night.

Why the homage? To toastthe Christmas 2003 edition ofAustralian Vogue, whichLagerfeld guest edited long-distance from Paris.

The fruit of eight months’collaboration, Lagerfeld’s OzVogue vision embraces suchthings as interviews with furni-ture designer Marc Newson and Australian photographer Bill Henson;a conversation — played out over eight pages — between Lagerfeld andAustralian director Baz Luhrmann; a Sydney subcultures photo essayby Hedi Slimane, and fashion spreads modeled by Kylie Minogue andCate Blanchett.

Blanchett dresses up as Coco Chanel, while Eva Herzigova gets toimpersonate a living icon — new Chanel No.5 muse Nicole Kidman ina Kidman-inspired couture fashion spread and on the magazine’s cover.

At 382 pages, the December issue is a record for Australian Vogue,both in book size and ad revenue (more than 1 million Australiandollars, or $1.4 million). Noted media buyer Kate Ludlow-Hylandfrom OMD Prestige said, “There was a great buzz about this issue.”

Anticipating unprecedented interest, publisher FPC Magazineshas doubled the magazine’s print run, 15,000 of which are, saysVogue, going to Lagerfeld for his personal use while another 2,000are en route to Chanel in Paris today.


NEW YORK — Teen People rode into the QuiksilverBoardriders Club store in Times Square on Saturday, draw-ing about 400 hopefuls vying for a chance to model the latestfashions in an upcoming issue and on roxy.com. The eventdidn’t begin until 10 a.m., although a line had formed byabout 8 a.m.

Hosted by Teen People’s style merchandising editor, GreggMongone, wannabe models filled out a form listing their in-terests, had their photos taken and spun a wheel to winprizes, including Roxy merchandise.

After the tryouts, attendees shopped for surf-inspiredgear. Those who wore Roxy to the event earned a 10 percentdiscount, while anyone spending more than $75 received aTeen People cargo bag.

Pro surfer Lisa Andersen and five surfers from MTV’s“Surf Girls” attended the event to help pick the winners andsign autographs. Two winners emerged — Leah Zych, 21,from New Egypt, N.J., and Amanda Nembhard, 16, fromStaten Island. They each received a $250 shopping spree atthe Quiksilver SoHo store and were treated to a live perform-ance by Elektra recording artists The Troys. Z100’s DJ Romeoalso stopped by to congratulate the winners.

HE SAID, SHE SAID: It was like watching a train wreck.And so the viewers gathered Thursday for the first day

of the Gruner + Jahr v. Rosie O’Donnell court case,practically the first corporate dispute of its sort to actuallymake it to trial.

“I’m going to be giving out free stuff from ‘Taboo’ on thecourt steps daily,” O’Donnell had said two weeks before thecase moved forward.

The surprising thing was that there seemed to be noautograph seekers whatsoever. Instead, the courtroom wasfilled mainly with media reporters and junior levelcorrespondents from the local news stations sent out tomake sure nothing really amazing happened. Oh, and areporter from Us Weekly was there too.

First came a blistering attack on O’Donnell’s characterthat was delivered by G+J’s lawyer, Marty Hyman, who railedagainst her irresponsibility at having walked away from themagazine, tossing 100 people out of their jobs and costingG+J “tens of millions of dollars.”

He then laid out through a series of e-mails and pastconversations how O’Donnell’s erratic behavior made itimpossible to run the magazine.

O’Donnell, Hyman claimed, “threw a foul-mouthedtemper tantrum” on editor Susan Toepfer’s third day ofwork. “Her third day!” he exclaimed, as if celebrities timetheir tantrums logically. “And she delivered an edict thatshe would not work with her,” even after, he claimed,O’Donnell had greenlighted her hire. The dispute betweenO’Donnell and her publisher arose over the replacement ofeditor Cathy Cavender with Toepfer.

“She’s no Mother Teresa,” Lorna Schofield, an attorney forO’Donnell, admitted within moments of her opening. But,she argued, “what she is and who she is are important to thiscase. Her name and integrity are what she values most.”

But while G+J’s attack was unrelenting, O’Donnell’s lawyershighlighted some chinks in the publishing company’s armor.

For one, there was the e-mail written by chief financialofficer Larry Diamond to G+J international head, Axel Ganz,in which Diamond talked about how the magazine neededto manipulate its financials in order to meet its targets.There was a provision in O’Donnell’s contract that allowedher to walk if losses exceeded $4.2 million.

“The management team of G+J USA is recommendingto you that we manage the financials such that we do notfall below the required threshold point, so that we cancontinue to publish Rosie,” the e-mail read. “We are askingfor your approval to this strategy.”

Lawyers for the plaintiffs countered that there is nosubstantial proof of this and that to infer manipulation is amisreading of the e-mail. But the debate over who hadeditorial control was not made any clearer by theprosecution’s first witness, Family Circle editor SusanUngaro, who helped bring O’Donnell to G+J and worked asan editorial consultant for its first year of publication.

While recounting conversations with O’Donnell, theperennially perky Ungaro expressed her own confusionover who was making the decision about the change ineditors. “I thought it was collaborative, but yes [I thoughtit was her decision],” she said.

When O’Donnell expressed moral reservations about theswitch, Ungaro recalled telling her, “You should be able tomake this decision.”

And there were moments in her testimony that madethe company look like network executives ordering realityshows five minutes after the trend had expired — as when

Ungaro remembered being told the magazine wasn’tsimilar enough to People, and said that her own role as aneditorial consultant was supposed to have been “like EllenLevine’s at Oprah.” (Levine is the über-successful editor ofGood Housekeeping who helped launch O.)

O’Donnell’s lawyers argued that the company aimed toreduce the magazine’s political quotient in favor of morecelebrity, as well as fashion, a decision O’Donnell felt didnot reflect her ideals.

More testimony is expected over the next week in thenon-jury trial. — Jacob Bernstein

FORGET RIDING OFF INTO THE SUNSET: When Ed Kosner leftthe New York Daily News, he told colleagues the onlyperson he was retiring from was Mort Zuckerman. Now, he’sfound his next move: He’s writing a book. The title? “Dolly,Kay, Rupert, Mort, and Me.”

“It’s a life in journalism,” Kosner said when reached forcomment. The book will be about his life working with TheNew York Post under Dorothy “Dolly” Schiff, the Post’sformer owner, Newsweek with owner Kay Graham, NewYork Magazine (when owned by Rupert Murdoch) and,finally, Mort Zuckerman at the Daily News.

The proposal should be out in the next month andICM’s Amanda “Binky” Urban is repping him on it.

“I think Mort has no idea he’s going to be a chapter in abook,” said one source, “and Ed is none too happy with him...”

And Kosner isn’t the only one thinking about thenext phase of his career. At the book party for MichaelWolff’s “Autumn of the Moguls,” Ron Galotti was millingaround Michael’s (i.e. the restaurant) with a big grin onhis face. What brought him out? Might it not just be theopen bar? Might Mr. Big, as sources said, be taking alook at New York Magazine with Wolff and his partner,Donnie Deutsch? “Michael’s taking a look at New YorkMagazine,” he said with a smile before running off intothe crowd. Well, you heard it here first. — J.B.

THIS MAGAZINE HAS BEEN DISCONTINUED: Primedia looksprepared to sell New York Magazine no matter what, so it'sa good thing yet another bidder has arrived on the scene.

Sources said Village Voice Media chief executive officerDavid Schneiderman is perusing the black book withGoldman Sachs. The Voice and New York have been linkedonce before — when Rupert Murdoch owned them both inthe Seventies — but he couldn’t make it work then. Severalattempts to reach Schneiderman were unsuccessful.

Goldman Sachs is the exact opposite of the highspender Primedia’s board is waiting for — but it certainly isgetting its balance sheet ready for a sale.

Buried beneath the bad numbers in Thursday morning’squarterly earnings announcement — declining revenues,shrinking cash flow and a $43.7 million net loss — wasPrimedia’s decision to list New York as one of its“discontinued operations,” in effect telling shareholdersand the federal government that New York won’t be aroundthis time next year.

Primedia could still change its mind — on the call, chairmanDean Nelson said the sale won’t finish before New Year’s — butit’s a strong message to send the investment community while itsbankers at Allen & Co. are still trying to convince interestedparties into thinking that it will pull the magazine off the block ifthe bids are too low — say, less than $50 million.

“I’m not convinced” that they’ll sell no matter what,said one source close to the sale, who added that Allen &Co. is still talking a mean game. “That could just bebankers’ talk, because they’re disappointed with theranges. Knowing them, they’ll keep fishing for that greatvanity publisher in the sky that might emerge with atopping bid.” — Greg Lindsay and J.B.

MEMO PADKarl Heads DownUnder, Via Vogue

Cate Blanchett channels Coco Chanel.

Amy Snyder, Roxy vice president of marketing; Lindsey Troy, member of Elektra recording artists The Troys; Steve Tully,

president of the women’s division at Quiksilver; Anna Troy, The Troys; Roxy/Teen People winner Amanda Nembhard;

Roxy/Teen People winner Leah Zych; Randy Hild, senior vice president of marketing at Quiksilver; Paul Caine, publisher of

Teen People; Chelsea Georgeso, pro surfer, and Lisa Anderson, four-time world champion pro surfer.

Catching a WavePH

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By Tsukasa Furukawa

TOKYO — Renown Inc., a leading manufacturer andretailer of women’s wear, and D’Urban Inc., a majorsupplier and retailer in the men’s wear market, areestablishing a joint holding company in March to in-tegrate management control of the two companies.

Following the formation of the holding firm,Renown D’Urban Holdings Inc., the two firms willbecome its wholly owned subsidiaries, the compa-nies said, noting that a reorganization and restruc-turing of the group will be started with completiontargeted by February 2005.

Since Renown and D’Urban are in differentareas of business, the consolidation will createsynergies. Renown does have a men’s line,Renown Homme, but it should reinforce D’Urban’slineup, while the two companies will be able to en-hance their marketing power by sharing theirbusiness bases and operational know-how, thecompanies said.

Renown and D’Urban said they are turning in-creasing attention to the emerging youth market inJapan, and both companies will be able to offerbroader lineups of merchandise and expand theirpresence through the combination of their re-sources. D’Urban, for instance, will be able to shareRenown’s expertise on store operation, they said.

Renown and D’Urban already are closely affili-

ated with each other, with Renown owning a 24.94percent stake in D’Urban and D’Urban owning0.54 percent of Renown’s outstanding shares. Thetwo companies will now be completely integratedunder the holding company.

The merged company is expected to generatepretax profits of $72.78 million, or 8 billion yen,translated at current exchange, in 2006 on sales of$1.45 billion, or 160 billion yen, which are projectedeventually to rise, respectively, to $90.9 million, or 10billion yen, and to $1.64 billion, or 180 billion yen,the companies said.

Renown posted an operating profit in the lastbusiness year ended Jan. 31 for the first time in 12years after a losing streak. It chalked up operatingincome of $25 million, or 2.75 billion yen, comparedwith a loss of $14.3 million, or 1.57 billion yen. Salestotaled $975.4 million, or 107.29 billion yen, down8.7 percent from the previous year.

D’Urban, which has seen a continuous declinein its sales and income for the past few years, alsois in need of reshaping its business strategy. Itssales sagged to $314.8 million, or 34.62 billion yen,in the last business year ended December 2002, adrop of 7.3 percent from two years ago, while thecompany incurred a loss of $3.9 million, or 432 mil-lion yen, on the operating basis compared with ablack ink figure of $12.5 million, or 1.38 billion yen,two years earlier.

Renown, D’Urban Join Forces

By Evan Clark

NEW YORK — Liz Claiborne Inc.turned in double-digit third-quarter gains on both the topand bottom lines, but still man-aged to rattle investors withcautious 2004 projections.

Net income shot up 17.2 per-cent for the quarter ended Oct. 4to $97.9 million, or 89 cents a di-luted share, 2 cents above the WallStreet consensus estimate pro-vided by Thomson Financial/FirstCall. This compared with year-agoprofits of $83.5 million, or 78 cents.

Sales for the three monthswere up 12.8 percent to $1.17 bil-lion from $1.04 billion a year ago.

Apparently investors werenot too impressed, though, asthe firm’s shares fell $1.92, or 5percent, on the New York StockExchange Thursday to close at$36.60.

The shareholder ire was ap-parently raised by Claiborne’s2004 forecasts calling for earn-ings of $2.65 to $2.72 a share andsales growth of 3 to 6 percent.Last year, diluted earnings pershare came in at $2.16 with salesof $3.72 billion.

“This is the first time we’vegiven guidance for the newyear,” noted chairman and chiefexecutive Paul Charron in atelephone interview. That guid-ance, though, is exclusive of anyfuture acquisitions.

“We’ve done acquisitionsevery year since 1999,” he noted.Already this year, the firm, whichis always evaluating acquisitionoptions and sees a fruitful envi-ronment in the market, acquiredJuicy Couture.

Although Charron had nocomment on whether he expectsanother deal to be closed thisyear, when asked if 2004 wouldpass without an acquisition, heresponded, “Absolutely not.”

So how many brands can thecompany, which already has astable of 32, digest?

“The only limitation to thenumber of brands we can man-age is the capacity of our peo-ple,” said the ceo. “Why can’t Lizbe the Procter & Gamble of thisindustry?” he asked, alluding to

the consumer products giantwhere he used to work.

Claiborne, he said, is lookingfor “names that can be meaning-ful, not names that are one-nightstands. We’re talking aboutnames that have longevity. Youcan marry those names.”

On a morning conference call,the ceo described the current re-tail environment as “unsettledand unsettling,” but noted trendsat retail have improved as of latewhile stores have held a tightrein on inventory, echoing othersin the industry.

“Generally speaking, promo-tional activity in major accountshas slowed from the rate experi-enced earlier in the year,” hesaid. “At the same time, we fund-ed markdown assistance in thethird quarter at higher levels thanwas our original intention as wemoved to address potential inven-tory issues with certain partners.”Brands such as Liz Claiborne,Villager and Crazy Horse turnedat a slower rate than expected.

A majority of the markdownswere in moderately pricedgoods, said the firm.

“The midmarket today is notwithout its risks,” noted Charron.“This suggests some rationaliza-tion of the units that we ship tothis sector is in order for theshort term.”

In the interview, he added, “Ican chase volume and I’d ratherchase volume than chase T.J.Maxx trying to get them to takemy excess inventory.”

Offsetting the midmarketmarkdowns were strong per-formances elsewhere in Clai-borne’s portfolio of businesses,such as bridge, contemporaryand denim, and logistical andsourcing improvements.

The company also had somedifficulties in the better portionof its business, particularly itscore Liz Claiborne label. Charronsaid there would be a reductionin planned sales for the brandnext year, which would be offsetby increases elsewhere in thecompany, as was the case in thethird quarter.

Wholesale apparel sales forthe quarter rose 14.5 percent to

$814 million due to the additionof $88 million in sales from theSept. 2002 acquisition of EllenTracy and the April purchase ofJuicy Couture, as well as currencyexchange, which added $22 mil-lion. Sales of the core Claibornebusinesses fell 11.8 percent.

As reported, the Liz Claibornelabel is in the process of beingconsolidated from four sub-brands into one label for spring.

He described the label asbeing on the “offensive,” notingthat it should resume a growthposture “in relatively shortorder,” although probably notnext year.

The namesake label might belosing ground in the U.S. now,but the firm has hopes to grow itand some of its other brandsabroad in a way that leans heav-ily on the European infrastruc-ture of its Mexx division.

The Liz Claiborne brand,adapted to better suit markets inEurope, would most likely hitstores there in 2005, though someof the other brands — such asLucky, Laundry and Ellen Tracy— will roll out on the Continentnext fall. Juicy Couture, which al-ready has a presence there, alsocould be expanded through theMexx infrastructure.

Whether the European roll-outs would be at the wholesaleor retail level depends on thebrand, said Charron, who saidplans are still being formalized.

There probably won’t be alarge marketing push, though,since many of the brands des-tined for Europe don’t requiremuch support in that area, henoted, adding the flagship brandmay require some advertising.

For the nine months, earn-ings ascended 19.3 percent to$206.6 million, or $1.89 a dilutedshare, from $173.2 million, or$1.62 a year ago. Sales picked up17.8 percent to $3.21 billion from$2.72 billion a year earlier.

Claiborne narrowed its earn-ings estimates for this year to$2.52 to $2.55 a share from $2.49to $2.55. Sales projections werebumped up to a 14 to 15 percentincrease, from the 11 to 13 per-cent previously anticipated.

Claiborne Profits Grow 17%CHRISTIAN DION?: Las Vegascontinues to move in a decidedlyupscale direction. To wit: CelineDion, who has a one-woman show onat Caesars Palace, is trading up inthe costume department. WWD haslearned the diva has been in fittingsof Christian Dior couture betweennightly performances of her show, “ANew Day.” John Galliano dispatcheda range of special suits and dressesfor her — and the singer orderedseveral styles in multiples. ExpectDion to hit the stage in Dior by theend of November.

SLIM KAL: Kal Ruttenstein returnedto work Thursday after two monthson sick leave and he’s not thesame man. Bloomingdale’s seniorvice president of fashion directionis 50 pounds lighter, has a trove ofnew sneakers and feels a lot betterafter suffering an ulcer ailment.“I’m planning to lose more weight,until I reach this side of KarlLagerfeld,” Ruttenstein said. Hecelebrated with the entire fashionoffice by serving up teasandwiches for lunch catered byWilliam Poll. In the old days, itmight have been pasta.

THE TWO QUEENS: Mannersmaketh man. And maverickdesigner Alexander McQueenshowed how particularly manly hewas when he arrived atBuckingham Palace Tuesday in akilt, sash and Glengarry cap. Hewas honored by Queen Elizabethwith the Commander of the MostExcellent Order of the BritishEmpire (CBE). If the daringdesigner went all the way with hisScottish ensemble, he might havebeen without his knickers, muchthe same way Vivienne Westwoodwas when she had her audiencewith the Queen. Cheerio!

FIGHTING FIRE WITH FASHION: LosAngeles jewelry designer JillPearson of Wasabi has devised away to help the families whosehomes are being destroyed by theCalifornia wildfires. OnWednesday, she came up with therelief effort, Fashion Fights Fire,in which she’ll donate 20 to 50percent of wholesale proceedsfrom one of her popularchandelier earring styles to arelief fund for displaced families.Pearson convinced eight otherdesigners in her showroom —Dogeared, Hat Attack, Kooba,Love Life, Masse, Noir, VanessaJenik and Ferroglyphs — to joinforces and select one item intheir current collections anddonate proceeds.

“WHO’S THAT GIRL?” At anintimate dinner hosted by theLancaster Group (manufacturer ofJLo Glow and Still Jennifer Lopezfragrances), beauty editors diddouble takes toward a womanwearing an Hermès scarf on herhead who’d slipped in unnoticed,quietly chatting. Was that her?Indeed it was, albeit more coveredup than usual. However, once theDolce & Gabbana coat came off, aMichael Kors Grecian gownshowed off that famous J.Lomuscle tone. And there was thatpink diamond, back for an encore.So, Jen, would you say someonein City Hall has a little crush?“Isn’t he sweet?” she replied. Justas dessert arrived, so did Ben.After kissing his future bridehello, he engaged editors withthought-provoking questions like,“What’s the difference between

beauty editors and fashioneditors?” Once he was clear onthat point, the two graciously saidtheir goodbyes and headed off toa plane waiting at Teterboro totake them to Savannah.

FAN CLUB: A menagerie of early-Eighties celebs, including PaulaAbdul, Kenny Scharf and AnnieFlanders, came out to see theirfriend, Patricia Field, at theHouse of Field show atSmashbox Wednesday night. “Patdesigned the costumes for myfirst tour in 1990, so of course Icame,” said Abdul.

Also present were buddingdesigner-actresses Taryn Manningand Samaire Armstrong, who wereboth taking in their first shows offashion week. Manning was takingnotes for her own line, which sheplans to launch next year. Alsotaking notes were “Miss Match”costume designer and producerRoberta Haze and Samantha Daniels.“I can’t see Alicia Silverstone inthese clothes, but there are somegood ones for Lake Bell,” saidHaze, referring to Silverstone’sbartending co-star. Next to her,actress Tiffany Limos was stillgetting used to the idea of thepaparazzi. “I grew up in the NewYork fashion and club world,” shesaid, “but the idea that peoplewant to take my picture is weird.”

UNFASHIONABLY LATE: It’s rare tofind a guest of honor who makes itto his own party over an hour late,but the British seem to do things alittle, well, differently. TakeLondon’s madcap milliner, PhilipTreacy, for instance. OnWednesday night, Saks FifthAvenue’s Jaqui Lividini hosted acocktail reception in his honor.The milliner breezed in over anhour late with Grace Jones. “I justflew in,” quipped Jones, snakingand dancing through the ThomBar in a white fur coat, a blackpleated Issey Miyake dress and anergonomic purple Treacy creationwhich covered her entire head —bar her eyes, which peeked outthrough a zipper opening. “We’relate because we walked here fromBank Street and it’s pretty coldoutside,” said the more soberTreacy, scouring the scene offashionistas and hat fans — manyof whom came wearing one of hiscreations. “New York is anuntapped hat culture. It’s arebellious accessory.”

Rebellion is something Treacyknows all about. Not only was helate, but he also immediatelybroke Mayor Bloomberg’sdraconian smoking laws and lit upa cigarette. “You have to have atleast one bad vice,” he said, witha smile.

SPIN CYCLE: The hypesurrounding Jenni Kayne’s secondcollection in Los Angeles gaveway to a preshow fever thatattracted Kirsty Hume, Ione Skye,Tom Binns and Kayne’s gymbuddy, Melissa Rivers. “We meteach other in our spinning classand she is just a darling, sweetperson,” said Rivers of the 21-year-old designer. “Plus, shecould make a hefty bag look goodand you’d say, ‘Damn, how doesshe pull that off?’”

Hume, a friend as well,admitted she might be shoppingfrom her front-row seat: “I don’town anything from her yet, but Ihear there’s a lot of pink, andthat’s always a good sign.”


Fashion Scoops


Continued from page 2going to pick out sweaters.”

The average Limited store has6,200 square feet and posts $284in sales per square foot. Black es-timated that Limited Stores willlose at least $25 million this year,and possibly as much in 2004.

Wexner said that Turlinski willprovide leadership and directionfor the operational aspects of thebusiness, including stores, fi-nance, planning, sourcing, mar-keting and human resources.Diane Holtz, who was namedpresident of Limited Stores inFebruary 2002, will retain over-sight of merchandising and de-sign and will report to Turlinski.

Previously, Turlinski was exec-utive vice president of operationsand administration for Express,overseeing finance, planning andallocation, manufacturing and op-erations. He was involved in inte-grating the former Structuremen’s wear division into Expressto create Express Men’s. Turlinskibegan his career with LimitedBrands in 1996 as executive vice

president and chief financial offi-cer for Lerner New York, andjoined Express as executive vicepresident of operations and ad-ministration in 1998.

Prior to joining LimitedBrands, Turlinski was ceo ofPhoenix Ltd., The ForgottenWoman, Cotton Ginny, and Toppsand Trousers/ACA Joe. He alsoheld strategic and operationsjobs at Saks Fifth Avenue,Bermans, Buttrey Stores andDayton Hudson, now calledMarshall Field’s.

Before Limited Stores, he wasceo of Federated Direct, whichended up unraveling, with Macy’sBy Mail discontinued, blooming-dales.com no longer selling mer-chandise and the ailing Fingerhutbusiness getting sold off in pieces.Prior to that, he spent 30 years atBloomingdale’s, holding many po-sitions of increasing responsibili-ty before rising to president.

Limited Brands also operatesWhite Barn Candle Co., HenriBendel and the Victoria’s Secretcatalog and dot-com businesses.

Sherman Exits LimitedNEW YORK — Margin pressureand tough year-ago comparisonsslashed Russell Corp.’s third-quarter earnings by more than afifth, but the firm did easily sur-pass the Wall Street forecast.

For the three months endedOct. 5, the Atlanta-based brandedathletic and outerwear manufac-turer said net income fell by 21percent to $18.5 million, or 56cents a diluted share, from $23.4million, or 72 cents, a year ago.Earnings per share eclipsed ana-lysts’ expectations by 8 cents.Excluding special charges in bothyears, net income would have de-creased 27.2 percent to $19.3 mil-lion, or 59 cents, from $26.5 mil-lion, or 82 cents, last year.

Net sales for the period tickedup 0.3 percent to $388 million. Bysegment, the acquisitions ofSpalding and Bike fueled a 20.5percent increase in the athleticchannel’s revenues to $121.1 mil-lion, but mass retail sales slipped0.2 percent to $147.8 million, andthe artwear and careerwear

channels dropped 20.5 percent to$91.1 million.

The absence of sales momen-tum and a 210 basis-point re-traction in gross margin to 29percent of sales contributed tothe depleted bottom line.

In related news, Russell saidit’s realigning its operations toincrease focus on both its athlet-ic and activewear businesses.Manufacturing, distribution andsome administrative functionswill be combined with sales andmarketing to create separate ath-letic and activewear groups. Aspart of the project, Russell willbuild for the activewear group a$50 million textile facility inCholoma, Honduras, which isslated for completion by latenext year. The company saidonce the facility is fully opera-tional in 2006, it should initiallyrealize annual pretax savings of$15 million to $20 million.

On a conference call, chief ex-ecutive officer Jack Ward out-lined plans for “an additional op-

erational improvement programtargeting $50 million in pretaxcost reductions to offset antici-pated price decreases, higherfiber costs and other cost increas-es for fiscal 2004. This compre-hensive plan includes improvingoperating efficiencies and assetutilization, while streamliningprocesses in both our manufac-turing and administrative areas.”

For the year to date, Russellsaid net earnings improved 43.9percent to $28.6 million, or 87cents a diluted share. By compar-ison, in the first nine months oflast year the firm recorded profitsof $19.8 million, or 62 cents. Netsales for the period increased 3.3percent to $883.9 million from$855.9 million a year ago.

Looking ahead, Russell raisedits full-year guidance to $1.31 to$1.39 a diluted share exclusive ofcosts for its operational improve-ment program. Previously, thefirm had forecast earnings of$1.25 to $1.35.

— Dan Burrows

Russell Net Falls 21% in 3Q

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PRODUCT MANAGERSOURCING DIVISION

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