DIGITAL HAPPENINGS #25(August 2014)By W0NAC (“Matt”)
I’ve heard comments from at least two county hunters that some
of my technical topics have gone way over their heads. After
thinking about this a bit, I feel that their comments are valid.
So, this month I’m going to do my best to avoid theory and just try
to explain in the simplest way possible how you can acquire, set
up, and get on the air with a simple fixed and/or mobile digital
rig. My goal is to motivate any of you that have thought about
going digital, but are feeling a little overwhelmed by the
technical challenges involved, to move out and join the fun.
Naturally, the other usual topics will also appear. If I succeed in
motivating any of you to “get off the fence”, I would really like
to hear from you by phone, email, text, or any other way of
communication!
How To Set Up & Operate A New Digital Rig
Comments/Assumptions:
Following are lists of steps you would need to take when you are
setting up a brand new digital rig for mobile operations in a
vehicle that has never had any ham gear installed before. However,
I have also attempted to make this useable for simpler situations
(like modifying an existing fixed or mobile station for digital
ops) by just ignoring unneeded steps or modifying them.
I have included only the bare minimum of essential information,
because many of these topics have been covered in more detail in
previous articles (a complete set of Digital Happenings #1 through
#24 can be downloaded by clicking on the following link:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/26171574/Happenings/DIGITAL%20HAPPENINGS%20%231-24.zip
.
Then, of course, there are always the various manuals (which
“real” hams never read!) that you can consult if you get stuck. In
writing this “How To” article I trust that you will have all the
relevant manuals at hand (maybe printed out?). Further into this
article I will provide a list of the manuals I use with links that
you can use to download them.
Almost inevitably you will need to adapt (or just ignore) many
of these steps to fit your own particular situation. This will be
especially true if you need to use existing hardware (transceiver
or interface) that is different from what I recommend here. If you
ever reach a point where you are truly “stuck”, just contact me and
I will be happy to help you out. My email address is
[email protected] and my home phone number is (303) 799-3658.
How To Obtain Needed Hardware:
1) Basic Transceiver - Even though this article assumes use of
the ICOM IC-7000 transceiver in a new mobile installation, almost
any brand of transceiver can be adapted for digital use, so your
existing fixed or mobile rig station transceiver will very likely
work just fine. All you need to do is have the correct cable(s) and
a properly configured interface(s) on hand. If you currently have
both a fixed rig and a mobile setup, it will be easier if both
transceivers are the same model, but even if they are different
this situation can be handled.
For a mobile rig, transceiver size and weight become important
considerations. The following models immediately come to mind –
ICOM IC-706 MKII, ICOM IC-7000, and YAESU 857. All of these radios
are small and have remoteable control heads. This “How To” assumes
use of the IC-7000, but any of the other two will work just fine.
If funds are limited, you might even consider moving a single radio
(and its digital interface) back and forth between your mobile and
fixed stations. Doing this would require a lot of ingenuity and be
inconvenient, but it would certainly save a lot of money!
2) Antenna – For digital operations, any antenna that works well
on the lower portion of the 20M band (14.000-14.150 MHz) will cover
90% of your needs. Having 17M, 30M and 40M capability will probably
cover 99% of the rest. Also, if you wish to operate SSB and CW in
addition to digital (most do), this will also affect your choices
(and costs!).
For mobile digital use you will probably end up with a
(electrically shortened) ¼ λ vertical mono-pole of some kind. If
you are starting from scratch, I recommend that you consider using
a 20M “Hamstick” (MFJ-1620T) mounted with a Breedlove Quick
Disconnect (Model #032) on a Comet (Model HD5-3/8-24) Trunk Lip
Mount. If you wish to add Hamsticks for other bands, you will need
additional Breedlove Antenna Packs (Model #032) for each one you
add plus a single Breedlove Quick Disconnect Cap (Model #031). All
the Breedlove parts can be ordered online from
https://breedlovemounts.com . All the other parts are available
online from Ham Radio Outlet at Http://www.hamradio.com . Using
these parts for a single band (20M) antenna will cost about $125.
Adding “Hamsticks” and parts for two additional bands would bring
your total cost up to a total near $200.
The recommended antenna setup above is only one solution from
hundreds offered by ham suppliers (and certainly not the most
efficient). For example, many county hunters use Hustler parts to
assemble a short (8 feet or so) vertical antenna with multiple
resonators at the top end. Many different mountings are also used.
For excellent detailed information on antennas and antenna mounts,
I refer you to the K0BG site which can be reached at this link:
http://www.k0bg.com . The articles on this site are packed with
sage advice and a wealth of other topics covered in detail.
Ultimately, the decision on what to use is up to you! Just
remember, almost any antenna will work for digital operations. It’s
just a matter of how well they work for the price and convenience
when changing bands/frequencies.
3) Interface – Again, possible choices here are many. Although
it is a bit dated now, I covered most interface choices in detail
in Digital Happenings #11. If you don’t already have an interface
on hand that you wish to use, I still recommend that you buy a
“SignaLink USB” interface manufactured by Tigertronics.
My reasons for recommending the SignaLink USB box were covered
in detail in Digital Happenings #11 if you wish to review them, but
everyone I know who have used the SignaLink have been pleased. It
is simple, small (good for mobile use), inexpensive, requires no
special power source (powered through USB connection), and is very
easy to setup and connect.
I recommend that you order your unit direct from Tigertronics by
phone [1-800-822-9722 or (541) 474-6700]. In addition to the unit
itself, you will also need the correct cable to connect to your
model transceiver. Also, for a small additional cost, I recommend
that you order the Plug & Play Jumper Module for your radio.
This module will save loads of time and avoid errors when doing
manual jumper connections.
When using some radios, there are as many as 3 different
connection ports you can use. For example, most ICOM radios have
both a13-pin and an 8-pin Accessory jack on the rear panel as well
as an 8-pin round microphone jack on the front. Any of these can be
used, but each has their own advantages/disadvantages. The
Tigertronics sales people are very familiar with the “in’s and
out’s” for connecting to your model radio and can advise you on
which choice is right for your situation. However, if you have a
choice, I recommend that you opt to use the “data” connection.
If you wish to use this interface for both your fixed station
radio and your mobile rig, I recommend that you buy two units with
each configured for its own radio. If this is too expensive, it is
possible to use a single interface for both radios. However, if the
2 radios are different, you will probably need to reconfigure the
SignaLink box (take it apart) and also change cables each time you
move the interface. This is doable, but very inconvenient! If both
radios are identical you can use the same SignaLink configuration
and cable for both locations, but still have the inconvenience of
physically moving the hardware back and forth. You also lose the
ability of operating both stations at the same time.
4) Computer- For base station use, almost any computer will work
fine even if it is old. However, if you also need to use this
computer for other tasks in addition to digital operations, you may
want a more up to date computer with lots of storage and a faster
CPU. In any event, I recommend that you use a computer with Windows
7 or Windows 8.1 installed. Microsoft recently terminated all
support for Windows XP (and prior versions). Even though a Windows
XP computer may work OK for now, Microsoft no longer provides any
security updates. This means that you may become more vulnerable to
security threats (malware) as time moves on. Also, hardware drivers
and other 3rd party software may suffer increasing compatibility
and availability issues.
If you want to “put out” counties using digital modes while
mobile (heaven knows we need a lot more digital mobiles!), having a
computer in your car is mandatory! I have no specific brand or
model recommendation, but when available space is considered, you
will probably end up with a small notebook or netbook computer. You
will want the largest (and brightest) screen you can safely fit
into your vehicle. Other things you need to check out before buying
are: a) Does the computer have at least 2 (more is better) USB
ports? b) Is the screen readable in bright sunlight? c) Do the
function keys act as function keys by default (highly desired!) or
do you have to press a second key in combination (very awkward when
using Fldigi macros)? d) Do either of the computer’s AC to DC or DC
to DC power supplies generate any spurious harmonics within the ham
bands you will be using? (Many do!) If so, you may have to choose a
different model or run the AC power supply from a DC to AC
inverter. Incidentally, many DC to AC inverters (especially those
with non-sinusoidal output) are also noisy. If you go this route, I
recommend that you do a Google search using the key words “RF quiet
inverters” for more complete help in choosing one with true
sinusoidal output. e) Can you see the keyboard at night? (An
indirectly lighted keyboard can solve this problem.)
5) Wiring/mounting – I could write a book on this topic alone!
But instead of “re-inventing the wheel”, I refer you to an
outstanding web site by K0BG. You can find excellent instructions
on Wiring & Grounding by clicking on the following link:
http://www.k0bg.com/wiring.html . The only thing I can add is that
radio installation shops (like Car Toys) are a convenient source
for heavy duty flexible wire, large in line fuse holders, and such.
If you talk nice, they may also do custom wiring of mobile
equipment to your specifications. This custom work is expensive,
but their expertise is often worth the cost, especially when you
need to penetrate the vehicle firewall with heavy power cables and
avoid airbags, etc. One caution, however. Auto sound installers
will almost always try to have you let them use the vehicle body
for the negative power return. Don’t let them! Insist on using a
cable (same size as the positive power lead) for the negative power
return. Also, fuse both cables near where they connect to the main
vehicle battery. It is best if you can avoid using any of the
vehicle wiring for powering any Ham equipment. This includes not
using the 12V accessory sockets!
For convenience and safety I recommend that, when mobile, you
mount your laptop/netbook computer as opposed to just setting it
loose on the passenger side seat (or passenger’s lap). Hams have
shown their ingenuity through the years by designing many custom
computer mounts, but if you are fresh out of good ideas, check out
the following web sites for possible solutions: a)
http://www.rammount.com/Products/LaptopMounts/tabid/1510/Default.aspx#/
b) http://www.bracketron.com/universal-vehicle-laptop-mount . c)
http://www.mobiledesk.com/ .There are many other sites available if
you Google “mobile laptop computer mounts”.
6) Miscellaneous Parts – Among the extra parts you will need are
various RF chokes (also called split beads) to suppress common mode
RF from radiating from wires, cables, and coax in your vehicle.
Again, the K0BG web site ( http://www.k0bg.com ) will provide you
with essentially all the information you need on these devices and
where to get them. Note: as a general rule place RF chokes at both
ends of all cables and wires (winding 3-4 turns through the
window). The one exception to this rule is that both ends of the
heavy leads connecting to the main vehicle battery need not be
suppressed.
Also, there is a Radio Shack Snap-Together Toroid Choke Core
(Catalog # 273 -104) that I have used with good results in the past
for RF suppression. You can get it at your local Radio Shack store
or order it online at http://www.radioshack.com . Here is what it
looks like: The reasons that I recommend using this part are that
it has proved to be very effective at HF frequencies and that the
large snap-together window allows you to wrap multiple turns of
large wire, audio cables, and even RG-8X size coax for maximum RF
suppression. Its design also allows you to wrap multiple turns
while the wire/cable is still connected at both ends. Pretty
neat!
How To Obtain Needed Digital Software:
For your digital software, I strongly recommend that you use
Fldigi (Fast Light DIGItal modem application). Most of the digital
software programs out there were compared in Digital Happenings
#14. However, even though this article was written almost a year
ago, I still recommend Fldigi software for both mobile and fixed
station use for the following reasons: a) It covers more digital
modes (and sub-modes) than any other single program. b) Even though
free, it has excellent support and is updated frequently. c) It has
a plethora of features, but operates beautifully with easy to set
up default settings. d) For the most part it is very reliable
software and any bugs that do crop up are fixed in a timely manner.
e) It has a clean easy to use interface.
f) It has versions that will run on almost any PC running
Windows, Linux, OS X (Macs), or Puppy Pet (a compact version of
Linux).
You can obtain the latest setup exe for Fldigi from the
following site: http://www.w1hkj.com/download.html . The Windows
setup file can be downloaded by clicking on the first link in the
Windows Setup column with the name “fldigi-3.21.83 setup”. The
Fldigi User’s Manual 3.21 (PDF) can be downloaded from the same
site by clicking on the “fldigi-Help PDF” link under the Help
column. Other useful downloads can be found at the following: a)
Beginners’ Guide to Fldigi – W1HKJ Software:
www.w1hkj.com/beginners.html b) Windows 7/8 Setup Instructions and
General Information: http://www.tigertronics.com/windows7.htm .
Note: I recommend that you initially set up your mobile computer
at a fixed location with a fast internet connection. You will need
to be connected to the internet for any of the links in this
article to work! I further recommend that you download ALL of the
files listed above for later use when you install Fldigi. You
should also PRINT out all the manuals for use when you have no
internet connection.
How To Connect Your Hardware:Here is a simple diagram for the
new mobile installation I am using for an example:
After you have ALL the hardware you need and have physically
mounted/attached the major items to your vehicle, follow the steps
below to connect everything. If you already have an existing fixed
or mobile station and just need to modify your setup, skip (or
modify) any steps that don’t apply.
1) Install the Comet Antenna Mount on the left side of the trunk
lid making sure that the pointedset screws make firm contact with
bare metal. Now is also a good time to use shortbattery cables to
electrically bypass both trunk lid hinges to the vehicle body. In
most casesyou can place the cable lugs under the existing hinge
bolts, but if not, use your ingenuity.
Route the coax to your transceiver antenna connector, but try to
form a 3 or 4 turn coilabout 4 to 6 inches in diameter (near the
antenna mount) using excess coax. Clamp 2 or 3Radio Shack RF chokes
with all turns of the coax passing through the choke windows.Space
the chokes evenly around the coil and use cable ties to get
everything out of the way.
2) Route and connect the Remote Head cable to the Remote Head
and the transceiver main body.
3) Route heavy (#8 minimum) Red & Black cables through the
engine firewall. Many times you can use existing firewall grommets,
but avoid all sharp metal edges that could cause a short circuit if
they cut into the cables. Connect one end of both cables directly
to the main battery with in-line fuses (50 A) in both leads located
near the battery (leave the fuses out for now). Route the power
leads inside the vehicle to a junction point near your transceiver
body where you can attach the radio and computer power supply
cables. If you really want to do things right, use a Power Pole
junction strip (get a strip with extra connections so you can power
new devices in the future) and connect everything up using Power
Pole connectors.
4) Connect the fused transceiver power leads to the power
junction (shortening them as much as practical.
5) With your computer and its DC – DC power supply mounted,
connect the power supply to your computer. Then attach the
appropriate connector to the 12 VDC power leads and connect to your
power distribution strip. Note: You will need to wire a lighted
power switch into this cable to turn the power supply off when not
in use because the junction point it connects to will be “hot” at
all times. Mount this switch where it is easily see by the driver
(I use the front edge of the computer tray).
6) If not yet done, remove the SignaLink from its case and
install the jumper module or configure the internal jumpers.
Carefully double check everything before closing the case. (Reading
the Signalink instructions is crucial for successfully completing
this step!)
7) Connect the SignaLink provided USB cable to the SignaLink box
and to a USB port on your computer.
8) Plug the SignaLink provided transceiver cable into the rear
of the SignaLink box and the other end into the appropriate
connector socket on your transceiver. Note: For some transceivers
you may need to connect two cables if the transceiver has a
separate Push-To-Talk connector. Again, read your SignaLink
instructions carefully and cross-check against your transceiver
manual.
9) Using a Stereo (male) to Mono (female) adapter on one end of
a shielded Mono audio cable, plug the adapter into your Vehicle AUX
input jack. Plug the other end into the Speaker jack on the rear of
the IC-7000. Note: If your vehicle doesn’t have an AUX connector
for the audio system, you will probably need to mount and connect a
small speaker to the speaker jack on your transceiver.
10) Lastly, run a short heavy ground strap from the IC-7000
ground point (on right end of rear panel) to a nearby grounding
point on the vehicle body (sometimes seat rail hold down bolts can
be used effectively).
How To Configure Your Hardware & Software:
Before you initiate a “Smoke Test”, make sure that all equipment
power switches are in the OFF position. Then, insert both 50A fuses
in the in-line fuse holders near the main battery (+ lead first).
If nothing “smokes", verify that ~ 12VDC battery voltage (with
correct polarity) is present at the power junction point (Power
Pole strip). Then perform the following steps:
1) Disconnect the Antenna feed line at the radio and connect the
feed line to an antenna analyzer of some kind (MFJ-259, etc.).
Mount your 20M Hamstick and adjust its “stinger” for resonance
(minimum SWR) at 14.075 MHz. Note: We are optimizing the antenna
for digital (and CW) use. If you also wish to use your rig on 20M
SSB net frequency (14.336 MZ), you may need to compromise by tuning
it to ~ 14.200 MHz and accept higher SWR at both desired
frequencies. Or, you could buy two 20M Hamsticks and optimize each
for one of the two desired frequencies and switch antennas as
needed.
After tuning your antenna, re-connect the feed line to the
IC-7000 and check for proper RF power output.
2) Turn the computer power supply ON and boot up your computer
to a normal desktop. (I am assuming that you have configured your
computer exactly the way you want it earlier and that all Microsoft
updates are current.)
3) Turn all controls on your SignaLink fully CCW. Then turn its
power switch ON and verify by checking the green LED ON. You should
see Windows automatically install the SignaLink hardware driver. Go
to Device Manager and verify that the “Sound, video and game
controllers” item lists a “USB Audio CODEC” device and that it is
working properly. Return to your desktop.
4) Install Fldigi by executing the setup.exe file downloaded
earlier (you do NOT need to install flarq when asked). After
installation, a “Wizard” will guide you through the initial default
setup. Either fill in the requested information (like call sign,
etc.) or accept the suggested default settings. Again, read the
Fldigi install instructions before doing the install!
5) After finishing the Fldigi install, menu down to
“Configure/Sound Card/Audio/Devices” screen and check that your
Fldigi configuration screen matches the one below exactly and
“Save” it:
6) Run through the complete Windows 7/8 Setup Instructions. This
file is one that you downloaded and printed out earlier, but is
also available on this
link:https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/26171574/Fldigi%20Manuals%20%26%20Files/Windows%207%20Setup%20Instructions.htm
.
7) With everything ON, Tune your radio to 14.070 MHz (USB Mode)
on the dial. Set the Fldigi OpMode to BPSK-31 and check that the
Squelch is OFF or set very low. Then slowly turn up the RX control
on the SignaLink box. You should see noise begin to appear on the
waterfall in addition to signals from casual PSK-31 contacts. Tune
to a signal by clicking on top of its trace on the waterfall and
you should see their conversation start to decode in the receive
window.
8) Setting digital signal output level is next --- First, adjust
the RF Power Output level control to 100% (Full up) and leave it
there. Tune your radio dial to about 14.074 MHz and tune to a clear
spot on the waterfall. If available, set your radio to show both
Power Out and ALC action.
9) Click on the Fldigi “Tune” button (upper right on Fldigi
screen) and check that both the red SignaLink PTT light comes on
and that the transmit light on your transceiver is ON.
10) Slowly turn up the TX control on the SignaLink box and watch
your transceiver for an increase in RF power out. Keep increasing
the TX control until you just start showing a little ALC action or
~40 W power output is reached (whichever comes first). If any ALC
action is showing, back the TX control down a bit until the ALC
indication just disappears.
11) Click again on the Fldigi Tune button to toggle the radio
back to Receive Mode. Your rig will now be set for the maximum
undistorted digital signal you can expect out of a 100W PEP
transceiver. From this point on, use only the SignaLink TX control
to adjust RF power output.
Re-configure Fldigi & Load Macros For County Hunting
Ops:
Almost all county hunter digital operations require the use of
macros. Also, even though the default settings for Fldigi usually
work just fine, you will probably need to customize them to suite
your personal situation. Once again, your Fldigi manual is the
final authority on both macros and Fldigi configuration, but I
offer two short-cuts that you may wish to consider using. The first
short-cut will install a base set of Fldigi macros in your computer
that are nearly identical to what Sharon and I use for both mobile
and fixed operations (both as a team and just a single operator).
Naturally, you will need to modify (or even ignore) some of these
macros to fit your own circumstances. The second shortcut will
quickly set your Fldigi software configuration to match what we
use. Both of these short-cuts may save you a lot of time and effort
compared to starting from scratch.
Fldigi stores macros (with an .mdf file extension) in the
following default folder:“C:\users\\fldigi.files\macros”. When you
first install Fldigi, there will only be one macro file in this
folder (“macros.mdf”). As you edit and add new macro files, they
are saved in this same macros folder with different file names, but
all will have an .mdf file extension. How to create and use macros
was previously covered in Digital Happenings #4 so I won’t go into
more detail here.
As you modify Fldigi settings, your entire new configuration is
saved in the file “fldigi_def.xml”. This file is located in the
“C:\users\\fldigi.files” folder.
Please follow the steps below if you wish to take advantage of
these short-cuts:
1) Insure that the Fldigi program is NOT running.
2) Download the file “W0NAC Macro Set.zip” using this link:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/26171574/Fldigi%20Macros/W0NAC%20Macro%20Set.zip
and move and unzip it in the “C:\users\\fldigi.files\macros”
folder. After doing this you will find 7 new macros for you to
modify and play with (their names pretty much describe what each
macro would be used for).
3) Browse to the folder “C:\users\\fldigi.files” and rename the
file “fldigi_def.xml” to “fldigi_def old.xml”.
4) Download the new file “fldigi_def.xml” into the
“C:\users\\fldigi.files” folder using the link:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/26171574/Fldigi%20Config%20Files/fldigi_def.xml
.
5) Start the Fldigi program and select “File/Macros/Open from
the main menu. If you find that you are not already there, browse
to the “C:\Users\\fldigi.files\Macros” folder. While in this
folder, select and open the file “CountyHunter Mobile Team 02.mdf”.
Your main Fldigi opening screen should now look very similar to the
following:
You will still need to make a few configuration changes (like
call sign and rig control), but in general, these new settings
should work well for you. Also, if you wish to go back to your
previous settings at any time, all you need do is re-name the file
“fldigi_def old.xml” back to its original file name
“fldigi_def.xml”.
When you have arrived at this point in the process, you are
pretty well ready to go digital county hunting! The only other
thing you need to do is learn how to use all your new toys under
“real life” conditions. Hopefully, these last two examples will
help.
How A Typical Fixed Station Would Work A Digital Mobile: (For
this example, we will assume that you are the fixed station and
that the mobile’s call sign is “N6PDB/M”).
1) Have your Logger spots up and running (or be monitoring
14.075 MH very closely) so that you know when a mobile is out
there.2) Have your rig all tuned up and ready to go on 20M
digital.3) Set your Fldigi mode to match theirs (mobiles usually
start their runs on PSK-64).4) Set your radio dial to the next even
KHz below the mobiles frequency that will require an offset of 500
Hz or more. For example, if the mobile is spotted on a true
frequency of 14074.8 KHz, set your radio dial to 14.0740 MHz and
look for the mobile’s signal trace near 800 Hz offset on your
waterfall. If they are spotted on a true frequency of 14074.1 KHz,
set your radio dial to 14.0730 MHz and look for the mobile’s signal
near 1100 Hz offset on your waterfall.5) Fine tune on the waterfall
trace until the mobiles transmissions are decoding as cleanly as
possible.6) When you see the mobiles call sign properly decoded and
not imbedded in garbage, double click on it and Fldigi will place
their call sign into the buffer. If you can’t see their call
clearly on the screen, but you know who it is, you can click in the
“Call” box (near top left of the Fldigi main screen) and type their
call (N6PDB/M) in manually.7) After the mobile has sent out a CQ
County Hunters call or when they have completed their current
contact, press function key F-9 to send your call sign. This macro
will automatically turn on your transmitter, send your call sign 3
times, then switch your transmitter back OFF.8) If the mobile
decodes your call, they will send back something similar to:
“W0NAC UR RST IS 599 BTU”.
9) You will then press function key F-10 which will
automatically reply with the message:
“N6PDB/M DE W0NAC UR ALSO 599 IN Douglas, CO TU”
10) They will acknowledge their report something like this:
“W0NAC TU FOR MY 599 BK OTHER CALLS? PSE KN”
11) At this point the contact is valid, so log it!
12) Each time the mobile changes to the next mode just use the
Fldigi macro buttons to change your own mode to match and repeat
steps 7 – 11 above.
Changing modes in Fldigi is very easy. All you need do is either
click on the macro button for the new mode, or hold down the key
before you press the corresponding macro function key. For example,
to change to the mode RTTY-75N, either click on the 6th macro
button from the left (top row) labeled “RTTY-75N”, or hold the key
down as you press function key F-6. If you forget all this, just
“hover” your mouse cursor over any macro key and the actions you
need to execute or edit that key will pop up!
Also, if you need to send a message that is not contained in any
macro, press function key F-12 to “toggle” your transmitter ON,
then manually type your message ending with function key F-12 again
to “toggle” your transmitter back OFF. If you are a slow typist,
you can also compose it first (using the keyboard) and it will be
sent at full speed the next time the transmitter is activated by a
macro key. Your manual text will be sent first. Then, any text
associated with the macro will be sent next. For example, if you
use function key F-12, only your manually typed text will be
sent.
How A Typical Mobile Team (Digital) Would Put Out A County Line:
(For this example, we will assume that the mobile team’s call signs
are “KJ5PQ/KG5UZ/M”). Except for only using asingle call sign,
putting out counties as a single operator is very similar. Also,
many of the details inthe previous example remain the same, so
these won’t be repeated.
1) Getting spotted is crucial for success! If you have wide area
internet data coverage, try to spot yourselves on your favorite
spotting site or ask for spotting help (off frequency) after
completing a SSB run on the net. You can also monitor Logger spots
for your own needs. If you have no internet data capability at all,
you will have to rely on other fixed stations monitoring 14.075 MHz
to spot you, but a published trip plan can also help a lot.2) For
maximum efficiency, plan on running county lines when possible.
Although two operators may be able to put out counties “on the fly”
using digital modes, it is very difficult to do safely. For a
single operator/driver I consider it impossible. Even though it
reduces the total miles you can cover in a reasonable day, I
recommend that all your digital runs be made while parked.3)
Especially for your first run, review in your mind which macros you
may use during the run, what they do, and which function key
activates them.4) Re-configure Fldigi to reflect your new QTH
(county line).5) Have your rig all tuned up and ready to go on 20M
digital.6) Set your radio dial to the next even KHz below the
nominal frequency on which you will operate. For example, if you
are setting up to run on the normal county hunter frequency of
14075.0 KHz, then set your radio dial to 14.0740 MHz and your
waterfall offset to 1000 Hz. Check that this frequency is clear and
move the offset up or down as necessary to avoid interfering with
others. Limit your offset changes to 500 Hz on the low side and
1500 Hz on the high side. This will keep you in the “sweet spot”
for your sound card. If you need to move more than +/- 500 Hz,
change your radio dial setting up or down by .001 MHz. Note: True
frequencies above 14.0755 MHz will probably encroach on JT-65
operations, so move down from 14.0750 MHz if you must move.7) After
you are set on a clear frequency, “Lock” it by clicking on the “Lk”
button on the lower right portion of your Fldigi main screen. This
will allow you to fine tune your receive frequency without changing
your transmit frequency. Remember, you will need to re-lock your
transmit frequency after each mode change.8) Press function key F-1
to send out your first CQ. If you are using my macros it will look
like this:
“CQ CQ COUNTYHUNTERS DE KJ5PQ/KG5UZ/M IN Custer/Fremont, CO WHO
NEEDS? PSE KN”
Repeat CQ calls as necessary until you see/hear someone calling
you with their call sign.9) When you see a calling station’s call
sign properly decoded and not imbedded in garbage, double click on
it and Fldigi will place their call sign into the buffer. If you
can’t see a call clearly on the screen, but you know who it is, you
can click in the “Call” box (near top left of the Fldigi main
screen) and type their call (KC3X) in manually.10) Check that the
call sign you wish to work shows in the “Call” box and then send
their report by pressing function key F-2. This macro will then
send the following message:
“ KC3X KC3X UR RST IS 599 599 BTU ”
11) KC3X will then acknowledge his report by returning a message
similar to this:
“ KJ5PQ/KG5UZ/M DE KC3X UR BOTH ALSO 599 599 TU ”
12) You will then acknowledge your report by using function key
F-3 to send the following:
“ KC3X TU FOR OUR 599 BK OTHER CALLS? PSE KN “
This contact with KC3X is now complete, so the logger can log
it!
13) Immediately start looking and listening for other calls.
When you can pick out a new call sign, repeat steps 9 – 13 until no
more calls are seen.14) At this point you might put out one last CQ
to make sure you have given everyone a chance to work you on this
mode.15) When you see no one else calling, manually (use function
key F-12) announce your next mode something like this:
“ NADA HEARD - NOW RTTY-75N RTTY-75N BK”
Then change Fldigi to the new mode and go back to step 4 and
repeat.16) If this was your last mode, announce your next county
similar to this and then go back to step 4 and repeat.
“ NADA HEARD – NEXT WILL BE Pueblo/El Paso, CO IN 45 MINUTES
KJ5PQ/KG5UZ/M CLEAR “
17) If you are finished for the day, manually announce that fact
with a message similar to this and QRT.
“ THAT WILL BE ALL FOR TODAY. CU TOMORROW AT 1400Z 73’S!
KJ5PQ/KG5UZ/M CLEAR “
The updated Table 3 is given below:
Table 3 - Active Digital County Hunters Award Status
#
CALLNAME
STATUS*
(M,F,I)
USA - DIGITAL
COUNTIES
(of 3077)
(1 MODE)(2 MODES)
FIVE MODE
COUNTIES
(3 MODES)
(4 MODES)(5 MODES)TOTAL
% 5-Mode
Completed
LAST
UPDATED
1AA8RRandyF1344307730771461576203839454.6%5/24/2014
2AC0BCliffF205-----00.0%12/10/2012
3AD1CJimF------00.0%
4K0DEQBillF------00.0%
5K0FGFredF18830773013187206630341.0%4/14/2014
6K0PVWRobF------00.0%
7K0WJLouF------00.0%
8K4PBXJimF27029822551077534345322.4%7/23/2014
9K5GEGeneF261893575800247616.1%5/26/2013
10K5SFDickF------00.0%
11K5WAFBillF5993044????304419.8%5/2/2013
12K7RELTomF------00.0%
13K8QWYEdF------00.0%
14K8ZZEdF------00.0%
15KA4RRUMikeM/F102630772989100913068727347.3%7/23/2014
16KA8JQPPamelaM/F2220264532843512.3%9/12/2013
17KC3XHollisF44230773077450396351735147.8%8/20/2014
18KC6AWXBobF450307715922645914500632.5%5/7/2013
19KC7YEJackF------00.0%
20KD5YUKBillyF------00.0%
21KD7KSTBillM/F1792-----00.0%9/30/2012
22KF7PKLDavisF3798792114815111547.5%10/9/2013
23KG5RJGregF73030502138672280108624840.6%8/28/2014
24KM1CBillF------00.0%
25KU4YMDaveF112285610954144303719.7%7/26/2014
26KM6HBMarkF71430772936694871679544.2%2/3/2013
27KW1DXDaveM/F683077991655024420727.3%4/26/2014
28N0KVBarryM/F52930773034236138999896058.2%7/20/2014
29N0LXJSharonM/F1406307722951279561307751948.9%8/30/2014
30N1APIAlF88230772592842596474758149.3%8/24/2014
31N4JTJimM/F91130773067919417296777650.5%5/18/2014
32N5MLPRonM/F391307740954379358623.3%5/19/2013
33N6PDBDennisM/F1093307729901293974811914559.4%8/26/2014
34N8CIJDickF89330773049887515387791551.4%8/24/2014
35N8HAMJimF030770000307720.0%4/2/2013
36N9WNNSteveF021800000218014.2%2/24/2013
37NA8WDarlF/M6993064980481266135492632.0%6/4/2014
38NF0NMikeF900307730771091283127765549.8%4/18/2014
39NN9KPeteF81630778597810401526.1%3/23/2012
40NT2AGeneF------00.0%
41NU4CPaulF------00.0%
42NW6SJimF7843077307780511479715246.5%5/6/2014
43NX4WLloydM/F122830771365554396162555436.1%8/26/2014
44W0NACMattM/F18623077285620341180542968963.0%8/31/2014
45W3DLMDonF3593077239029810155592138.5%10/12/2013
46W3ZUHDickF5307720481120513833.4%12/4/2013
47W4IHIGaryF------00.0%
48W4SIGKerryF------00.0%
49W4YDYDaveF1115307730771258624414845054.9%8/27/2014
50W5QPRickM/F66930772846746404334740748.1%8/20/2014
51W6RKRistoF-----00.0%
52W6RLLJoeF------00.0%
53W7FENLarryF25307729753210608539.6%10/3/2013
54W7INLarryF------00.0%
55W7QQBillM/F------00.0%
56W8RCWRichM/F38824225651315534320720.8%8/14/2024
57W9JRRichF90307716744400479531.2%10/31/2012
58W9SUQLarryF------00.0%
59WA4EEZLeslieF11373077205581429955630040.9%6/2/2014
60WA4UNSDougF------00.0%
61WA6OCVSusanM/F328307732832013010386525.1%3/28/2013
62WA7ETHEdF21119254183930238515.5%7/24/2014
63WA7JHQSterlingF------00.0%
64WB0MJeffF------00.0%
65WB2ABDPaulF------00.0%
66WD4OINJackF1150307730701161608336825253.6%8/20/2014
67WQ7ATerryF49430773065497397324736047.8%7/29/2014
68WY4DBenF326307734741159348922.7%6/10/2014
How To Get Your 5 – Mode Statistics Updated:
Several past Digital Happenings articles have given detailed
instructions on a new and easy way to update your digital
statistics for Table 3 by using a small program called “Digital
Report Utility”. This new program will create a report for you
showing your progress for both the USA – Digital and the 5 – Mode
Awards and email it to W0NAC. Instead of repeating these
instructions every month I have included them in a Microsoft Word
document that you can download by clicking on the following link:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/26171574/Happenings/5%20Mode%20Update.doc
Other possible topics for future months include (in no
particular order):
“More Lesser Well Known Features of Fldigi”“How to Log Your
Digital Contacts in Logger”“Macros – Revisited”“New Digital
Awards?”“Digital Software Installation – Revisited”
If anyone has a story or tip that you wish to contribute, I will
certainly try to include it. Short stories describing your
experiences/joys/frustrations in getting started in digital ops
would be especially welcome. Summaries of any digital trips you
make (or have made in the past) would also be good. I look forward
to hearing from you. Don’t be shy!
Please email me with your comments/suggestions at
[email protected] and don’t forget to send your updated status for
the USA – Digital and 5 - Mode Awards so I can update the Active
Digital County Hunters Award Status list again next month.
73’s and we hope to see you on our waterfall again real
soon!
Matt – W0NAC