MANUAL - Antumbraantumbra.eu/content/bom/klik/v1-7/klik_manual.pdf · 1 2.2k resistor 1/4w 1% 4 10k resistor 1/4w 1% 2 100k resistor 1/4w 1% 2 100nf capacitor* 2 22pf capacitor* 2

ANTUMBRA

KLIKMANUAL

TABLE OF CONTENTS

01. INSTALLATION 402. BACK 503. FRONT 604. STEPS PAGE 705. MENU 806. EUCLIDEAN MODE 1007. PLAYMODE MENU 1108. LAST STEP MENU 1209. RANDOM AMOUNT 1310. LINK 1411. SOFTWARE MODIFICATIONS 1512. BILL OF MATERIALS 1613. BUILD NOTES 1714. BOARD 1 1815. BOARD 2 2116. ASSEMBLY 2417. UPLOADING SOFTWARE 26

00. THANK YOU!

Thank you for purchasing the Antumbra KLIK module! In this documentation you can find information about the installation and use of the module, also an assembly in-struction if you bought the DIY version.

01. INSTAL L AT ION

POWER CABLE HEADER: Red stripe always on the LEFT!!!

When you turn the KLIK around, you should see the mod-ule as it is on the left illustration. Plug in the power cable to the power cable header pins, but BE CAREFUL with the orientation of the cable! The RED STRIPE should be on the LEFT side on the module, indicated by the white line below the header pins. By doing otherwise you can potentially harm the module or even your whole system! Power off your eurorack system and connect the other end of the cable to the power source, here also pay attention to the PSU manufacturer’s instructions!

The jumpers should be on MC and MR by default. See more about this in the LINK section.

02. BACKLINK CABLE HEADER: Link two or more KLIKs with a 10pin ribbon cable to share information between the modules, by default it only normalizes the clock and reset triggers to the slave unit (so if there’s no cable inserted it still receives the triggers from the master unit, you can over-ride this by inserting a cable into the slave units’ inputs), but if you modify the code, it can share even more!You can also create an expander unit and connect it via this cable to add more functionality

JUMPERS: Set the master/slave module here.SL: digital slave*SC: Slave Clock • SR: Slave ResetMC: Master Clock • MR: Master Reset

* This can tell the program it’s in slave mode, for DIY or future applications (currently not used by the software)

POWER CABLE HEADER: Red stripe always on the LEFT!!!

03. FRONT

INTERFACE

ENCODER WITH PUSH BUTTON

CLOCK INPUT JACK

RESET INPUT JACK

OUTPUT JACK

04. STEP S PAGE

When you first launch the module, you should see the first LED blinking, this is your cursor. Rotate the encoder to move it around.

You can enter steps by pushing the encoder button, if a step is entered, the current step will be blinking brighter, the other steps will be indicated by being on constantly.

If you connect a trigger source to the clock input jack, you can see the playhead going. This is the dimmest of the LEDs and it always dims the current step a bit to indicate it’s whereabouts. On active steps it outputs a trigger on the output jack.

To remove a step, simply navigate to it with the cursor, and press the button, now the cursor should blink darker.

05. MENU

To enter or exit the menu, press and hold the encoder button for 1 second. You can select pages by turning the encoder. Upon entering the menu you see the first page:

EUCLIDEAN MODE: Enter euclidean mode, the current pat-tern is overriden.

LAST STEP SELECT: Click here to modify which should be the last step of your sequence, allowing you to create shorter than 16 step sequences. More on this later.

PLAY MODE: Click on this page where you can enter the play mode menu, here you can set the way how the play-head should act. More on this later.

05. MENU

RANDOM PATTERN: Click here to generate random pat-terns, each click of the button instantly creates a new pattern, you can edit the pattern by exiting the menu.

RANDOM RESET: If this setting is ON, it generates a ran-dom pattern every time the reset input receives a trigger. By default this setting is OFF.

RANDOM AMOUNT: Enters random amount select, here you can set how many random steps are generated by the ran-dom reset and random pattern functions.

RESET: Resets all the settings and the pattern to it’s de-fault value. (All steps off, playmode: FWD, last step: 16, random reset: OFF)

06. EUCL IDE AN MODE

Euclidean patterns are generated by dividing a given amount of steps with a number of fills equally. As there are odd numbers left, it generates interesting patterns.In this mode you can select the number of fills by turning the encoder, and select the pattern length in the pattern length menu, and the fills adjust to this accordingly.You can edit this pattern by exiting the menu.

16 step euclidean patterns, with fill from 1-16.

07. PL AYMODE MENU

Upon entering this menu, you can change the behavior of the playhead. By turning the encoder, you can see a ver-tical line moving. Each line represents a playmode, if the cursor is on the current playmode, there is one vertical line shining bright, if it’s not, there are two lines, one brighter (current playmode), and one dimmer (cursor). Click the button to select playmode, click again on the same position to exit to the menu, or hold the button for one second anywhere to exit the menu entirely.

PLAYMODES:Forward • Backward • Pendulum • Random

08. L A ST STEP MENU

When you first enter this menu, all LEDs should be ON dim, and the last one bright. The dim LEDs represent the active steps, the bright LED represents the last step of the sequence. When you turn the encoder, the LEDs turn off one by one, to make the sequence the selected length, press the button. To exit to the menu press the button again on the last step, or press the button for one second to exit the menu entirely.

09. R ANDOM AMOUNT

Here you can set the maximum number of random steps generated by “generate pattern” and “random resets”.On 0 steps lit, the generation is completely random so it can happen that all the steps will be OFF and that all will be ON.

10. L INK

As mentioned before, you can link one or more KLIK mod-ules with a 10 pin ribbon cable inserted on the LINK head-er, or connect an expander module to it (coming soon).

By default it sends and receives the clock and reset trig-gers depending on the jumper setup. If the jumpers are on the master pins, it sends, if they are on the slave pins, it receives triggers.

You can see the pin map of the header on the left.CLOCK and RESET are for the triggers from the module.PIN 0 and PIN 1 are the digital pins 0 and 1 of the micro-controller (ATMEGA328P-PU), PIN A0-A5 are the corre-sponding analog pins.

CLOCK

PIN 0 PIN A1 PIN A3 PIN A5

PIN A0 PIN A2 PIN A4PIN 1

RESET

11. SOF T WARE MODIF IC AT IONS

Feel free to modify the software of your module, but at your own risk! Antumbra doesn’t take responsibility for damaged microcontrollers, if you proceed from here I as-sume you know what you are doing.

If you are unsure of what you are doing, please contact Antumbra in email at [email protected]!

Basic way:Power off the module and very carefully remove the AT-MEGA328 microcontroller from the IC socket of the mod-ule. Insert it into an Arduino UNO, and upload regularly, or use the Arduino as an ISP to upload (https://www.ardui-no.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP).

Atmega328P-PU

12. BIL L OF MATERIAL S

QTY PART2 IC SOCKET 28 PIN3 2X5 PIN HEADER1 1X24 MALE PIN HEADER*1 1X24 FEMALE PIN HEADER*1 1X8 MALE PIN HEADER*1 1X8 FEMALE PIN HEADER*2 470 RESISTOR 1/4W 1%1 1K RESISTOR 1/4W 1%1 2.2K RESISTOR 1/4W 1%4 10K RESISTOR 1/4W 1%2 100K RESISTOR 1/4W 1%2 100NF CAPACITOR*2 22PF CAPACITOR*2 10UF CAPACITOR (4X7MM)1 16MHZ CRYSTAL OSCILLATOR

QTY PART2 2N3904 NPN TRANSISTOR1 L78L05 5V VOLTAGE REGULATOR3 THONKICONN JACK16 3MM LED1 ENCODER WITH PUSHBUTTON1 KNOB FOR ENCODER2 JUMPER1 10MM M3 MALE-FEMALE SPACER**1 11MM M3 FEMALE-FEMALE SPACER**2 M3 SCREW**1 ATMEGA 328P-PU1 TLC5940 LED DRIVER

* 2,54MM LEAD SPACING** OR 2X 10MM MALE-FEMALE SPACER + 1MM WASHER + M3 HEX NUT + SCREW OR 1X 10MM MALE-FEMALE SPACER + 1X 10MM FEMALE-FEMALE SPACER + 1MM WASHER + 2SCREW

13. BUIL D NOTES

Before you start building look through the build manual so that you’ll be familiar with the building process and you won’t run into any surprises! :)

All resistors are standing resistors in this build, so they should be bent like this:

Be careful to trim the leads of components pretty close to their base, and bend the resistors close to their end, so that when you assemble the PCB-s the solder joints and components doesn’t touch each other.

14. BOARD 1

00. Orient the PCB as seen on the left

01. Solder the two 28pin IC socket (the notch should be on top as seen on the image!)

02. Flip the board

03. solder the 16Mhz crystal

04. solder the 22pF capacitors

00 01 02 0403

14. BOARD 1

05. Solder the 2n3904s

06. Solder the L78L05 voltage regulator

07. Solder the 10uF capacitors Orientation matters, short leg goes in the - mark!

08. Solder the 10k resistors

09. Solder the 2.2k resistor

05 06 07 0908

14. BOARD 1

10. Solder the 470R resistor

11. Flip the PCB again

12. Solder the 2x5 pin headers

You are finished for now with this board, put it away for a bit.

10 11 12

15. BOARD 2

13. Orient the PCB as seen on the left

14. Solder the two 100nF capacitors

15. Solder the 470R resistor (on board v1.3 it says 470k, ignore that)

16. solder the two 100k resistors

17. solder the 1k resistor

13 14 15 1716

15. BOARD 2

18. Solder the jacks, make sure they are tight and flat on the PCB!

19. Snip off the right leg of the encoder as seen on the image

DON’T SOLDER YET FOR THE NEXT STEPS!

20. Put in the encoder in place

21. Put the LEDs in place (long leg goes in the + sign)

22. Put in the 10mm standoff in the center hole on top

18 19 20 2221

15. BOARD 2

23. Put on the front panel aligning it on the 3 jacks. See if you’ll need to add washers to the encoder by trying to put on it’s nut and check if the encoder legs are in the holes in the PCB. If the legs don’t reach the PCB try to add one or two washers under the panel.

When you are satisfied with the encoder put the nuts on the jacks and screw in the M3 screw in the 10mm standoff. Now align the LEDs in the holes, the easiest way to do this is to flip the module around so that the LEDs fall in the holes below. When the LEDs are tight to the panel and you are satisfied with their positions, solder them and the encoder.

24. Disassemble the front panel after you’ve finished soldering.23 24

16. A S SEMBLY

25. Put together the 1x8 female and male headers as seen on the left, repeat this for the 1x24 pin ones too.

26. Insert the pins in the remaining 1x8 and 1x24 holes in Board 1, add the 11mm standoff, then put on Board 2 as seen on the picture. Tighten the standoff screw and solder all the header pins on both boards.

2625

16. A S SEMBLY

27. Add the front panel as before, tighten everything.

28. Upload the code to the Atmega 328P-PU, for this refer to section 17.

29. Add the Atmega 328P-PU and the TLC5940 IC-s.

30. Add the knob on the encoder.

You are done with building!

2927

17. UPLOADING SOF T WARE

1. Download the zip file from here.

2. Set up the Atmega328P-PU on a breadboard as seen on the picture, or insert it into an Antumbra EURD.

3. Use an AVR programmer, like AVR ISP MKII with for example AVRDUDESS to upload the code.

4. Fuse settings should be set to: L-fuse: 0xff • H-fuse: 0xde • E-fuse: 0x05

5. After you’ve uploaded the firmware with bootloader, insert the Atmega328 in the module, if you were suc-cessful, you should see the welcome animation.

On the first run, you have to enter the menu and press enter on the reset page.

5V

5V

GNDGND

MISOSCKRST

5VRST

5V

GND

SPI PINS

SCKMISOMOSI

MOSI

987 22

2120191817

1

10

16MHZ XTAL

22pF capacitor

10K resistor

KLIK is designed by David Szebenyi under Antumbra.

www.antumbra.eu

Manual by David Szebenyi (www.aman.hu)

2017 • All rights reserved!