• • MAINTENANCE OF BOWLING GREENS By Michael J. Bladon, Past President Sports Turf Association Internationally, lawn bowling is one of the oldest recreational pur- suits. It was played in Rome, Greece and Egypt. Records show that a bowling green has existed in Southampton, England, since before 1611 and is still being played on, further that an annual competitive event has been scheduled on this green since 1776. In the Southern hemisphere, it was played in Hobart, Tas- mania, in 1845 and in South Africa in 1882, and is quite popular in New Zealand and Canada. In the greater metropolitan area of Syd- ney, Australia, there are over 1,200 lawn bowling clubs and in Johan- nesburg, South Africa, the parks department maintains 66 public bowling greens . Assuming that most, who read this article, are knowledgeable of the game, I will instead describe some of the maintenance practices associated with bowling. The first priority for every greenskeeper should be, of course, the develop- ment and maintenance of the play- ing surface itself, aiming to produce as high a standard as pos- sible within the limitations of time, labour and monies available. Many clubs operate on very small budgets. I will not discuss the maintenance of ditches, banks and surrounding areas-although these are equally important to the overall location. If- Check Levels - Prior to the start of the season, it is wise to check the level of the green using surveying equipment. This is the first step to ensure a smooth, level and firm surface so the bowls will run true and to maintain the "pace of the green". The speed or "pace of the green" is measured in the number of seconds it takes an ex- perienced bowler to roll the ball approximately 90 feet. Once levels are obtained, this will indicate where top dressing is needed. If not, uneven areas or runs can result and the bowl does not run true. A board 3-4 m long is useful to do this type of levelling, then the rest of the green can be drag matted to disperse the topdressing material. If- Topdressing - Improves the ef- ficiency of mowing. More effective than rolling, as rolling compacts the soil, causing drainage problems, and limits air and water movement in the soil. In a free draining sand, topdressings can help with surface drainage when used with aeration practices. The area to be topdressed should have some growth and conditions should be dry, so as not to smother the grass plants. The greenskeeper should have a good knowledge of the physical make- up of his soil to ensure the proper mix is applied. On a newly-con- structed green, it is wise to keep a stockpile of the original mix on hand if space allows for this opera- tion. On sands, the current particle size should be adhered to (check original specifications). If soil is heavy, sands may be applied but very gradually over several years to the depth of the aeration holes, 3-4". No topdressing should be ap- plied at more than 1/16 of an inch at one time although, if money is there, it may be applied more often. It is always spread follow- ing aeration and thatch removal, and should be distributed with a drag mat. As mentioned before, the exact proportions of your topdressing mix would be deter- mined by the soil on site. If- Thatch - Is a tightly inter- mingled layer of living and dead stems, leaves and rocks of turfgrass that develops between the layer of green vegetation and the soil surface. Thatch is probably the biggest headache the greenskeeper has to deal with. Too much creates a slow green and decreases the overall green quality. It causes shallow rooting, poor penetration of fungicides, in- secticides and fertilizers and af- fects overseeding practices as seed strays in this layer and does not make contact with the soil. Hence, poor germination. To control thatch, a vertical mower is often used, this machine verticuts and prunes below the mowing height, so some thatch, matted grass, plant runners and longer leaves are thinned. The blades of the mower should be set so they make soil contact but do not penetrate. When the season is finished, they can be reset so they penetrate about 1/4" into the soil. Mow from corner to comer of the green on a 45° angle with very little overlap. Then, a leaf blower or rakes may be used to blow debris to one side of the green for disposal. This par- ticular operation should always be done about two days prior to play and is best done in early morning. Verticutting is usually done every two weeks throughout the grow- ing season, depending on the con- dition of the green. It helps increase the playing speed of the green. Always enter and leave the green over ramps. Do not attempt during high temperatures. If- Core Cultivation - The next operation which follows verticut- ting is more cultivation or ae~a- tion. This process helps to reheve compaction in the 1-2" of soil. It improves air exchange and water in filtration to the rootzone. Com- paction is due to the amount of
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MAINTENANCE OF BOWLING GREENSByMichael J. Bladon,Past PresidentSports Turf Association
Internationally, lawn bowling isone of the oldest recreational pur-suits. It was played in Rome,Greece and Egypt. Records showthat a bowling green has existed inSouthampton, England, sincebefore 1611 and is still beingplayed on, further that an annualcompetitive event has beenscheduled on this green since1776. In the Southern hemisphere,it was played in Hobart, Tas-mania, in 1845 and in South Africain 1882, and is quite popular inNew Zealand and Canada. In thegreater metropolitan area of Syd-ney, Australia, there are over 1,200lawn bowling clubs and in Johan-nesburg, South Africa, the parksdepartment maintains 66 publicbowling greens .
Assuming that most, who readthis article, are knowledgeable ofthe game, I will instead describesome of the maintenance practicesassociated with bowling. The firstpriority for every greenskeepershould be, of course, the develop-ment and maintenance of the play-ing surface itself, aiming toproduce as high a standard as pos-sible within the limitations of time,labour and monies available.Many clubs operate on very smallbudgets. I will not discuss themaintenance of ditches, banks andsurrounding areas-althoughthese are equally important to theoverall location.
If- Check Levels - Prior to thestart of the season, it is wise tocheck the level of the green usingsurveying equipment. This is thefirst step to ensure a smooth, leveland firm surface so the bowls willrun true and to maintain the "pace
of the green". The speed or "paceof the green" is measured in thenumber of seconds it takes an ex-perienced bowler to roll the ballapproximately 90 feet. Once levelsare obtained, this will indicatewhere top dressing is needed. Ifnot, uneven areas or runs canresult and the bowl does not runtrue. A board 3-4 m long is usefulto do this type of levelling, thenthe rest of the green can be dragmatted to disperse the topdressingmaterial.
If- Topdressing - Improves the ef-ficiency of mowing. More effectivethan rolling, as rolling compactsthe soil, causing drainageproblems, and limits air and watermovement in the soil. In a freedraining sand, topdressings canhelp with surface drainage whenused with aeration practices. Thearea to be topdressed should havesome growth and conditionsshould be dry, so as not tosmother the grass plants. Thegreenskeeper should have a goodknowledge of the physical make-up of his soil to ensure the propermix is applied. On a newly-con-structed green, it is wise to keep astockpile of the original mix onhand if space allows for this opera-tion. On sands, the current particlesize should be adhered to (checkoriginal specifications). If soil isheavy, sands may be applied butvery gradually over several yearsto the depth of the aeration holes,3-4". No topdressing should be ap-plied at more than 1/16 of an inchat one time although, if money isthere, it may be applied moreoften. It is always spread follow-ing aeration and thatch removal,and should be distributed with adrag mat. As mentioned before,the exact proportions of yourtopdressing mix would be deter-mined by the soil on site.
If- Thatch - Is a tightly inter-mingled layer of living and deadstems, leaves and rocks ofturfgrass that develops betweenthe layer of green vegetation andthe soil surface. Thatch is probablythe biggest headache thegreenskeeper has to deal with. Toomuch creates a slow green anddecreases the overall greenquality. Itcauses shallow rooting,poor penetration of fungicides, in-secticides and fertilizers and af-fects overseeding practices as seedstrays in this layer and does notmake contact with the soil. Hence,poor germination. To controlthatch, a vertical mower is oftenused, this machine verticuts andprunes below the mowing height,so some thatch, matted grass,plant runners and longer leavesare thinned. The blades of themower should be set so they makesoil contact but do not penetrate.When the season is finished, theycan be reset so they penetrateabout 1/4" into the soil. Mow fromcorner to comer of the green on a45° angle with very little overlap.Then, a leaf blower or rakes maybe used to blow debris to one sideof the green for disposal. This par-ticular operation should always bedone about two days prior to playand is best done in early morning.Verticutting is usually done everytwo weeks throughout the grow-ing season, depending on the con-dition of the green. Ithelpsincrease the playing speed of thegreen. Always enter and leave thegreen over ramps. Do not attemptduring high temperatures.
If- Core Cultivation - The nextoperation which follows verticut-ting is more cultivation or ae~a-tion. This process helps to rehevecompaction in the 1-2" of soil. Itimproves air exchange and waterin filtration to the rootzone. Com-paction is due to the amount of
playa green receives, the use oflight rollers and, lastly, the mower- often a Scott-Bonner - whichweighs some 350 lbs, The apronsof the green in particular receive alarge amount of foot traffic. Thecores may then be windrowedusing the attachment on theaerator or, if the right consistencyand material, may be drag mattedover the area as top dressing. Afterthese last two operations, thegreen should be watered thorough-ly.
II- Mowing - Mowing is the mostimportant job the greenskeeperwill do, as this is what determinesthe green speed or "pace of thegreen" -this and some light roll-ing allows the bowl to run fast,freely and with the-desired drawfor either backhand or forehand.Bowling greens as a group aremown more closely than puttinggreens. A height of 3 mm or 1/8"during July and August is com-mon while, the rest of the season,the green is usually kept at 5mmor 3/16" above the soil. The finestquality greens are achievedthrough daily mowings. Themower, most commonly used, isthe electrically-powered Scott-Bon-ner, which is capable of the ex-tremely close cutting heightsrequired.
The secret is to maintain a sharpmower and to backlap with agrinding compound weekly tomaintain that edge.
The mowing pattern should con-sist of mowing corner to comer(450 angle), changing the directionof the pattern each time you mow(eg, south/east to north/west, fol-lowed by north/east tosouth/west). Twice a month, mowin a north/ south and east westdirection, but not before a majortournament or special event asmowing in this direction will alterthe draw of the green whenbowled. No matter the direction,allow for a 50 per cent overlap on
each pass of the greens mowed.The green apron should bemowed in a direction that is paral-lel to the playing ditch, to a widthof at least three times the mowerwidth. If the club has sufficientarea, a small sod nursery is usefulto replace bare areas of the green.If this is not possible, then sodmay be cut from the comer of thegreen and then seed cut out areadown.
II- Fertilizer - A fertilizer pro-gram for this year is one thatshould result from soil tests takenlast autumn. A minimal programis important in order to keep
Mowing is the mostimportant job thegreenskeeper will do,as this is what deter-mines the greenspeed or "pace of thegreen."
down thatch accumulation and ex-cessive shoot growth, which can-not be tolerated on bowlinggreens. Usually a 4:1:2 ration fer-tilizer is recommended (LawnBowls Canada) such as 20-5-10.Another method for determiningnitrogen needs of bowling greensis to multiply the number of grow-ing months x .36 kg (.72 pounds)of nitrogen per 92m2 (1,000 sq. ft.).Tissue analysis is available fromthe Land Resource Science Depart-ment at the University of Guelphto find phosphorous, potash andtrace elements required. Greensmade of soil usually require be-tween 3-4lbs. of nitrogen per 1,000sq. ft. per season. Information onsoil testing by accredited agenciesmay be obtained from your countyOMAF (Ontario Ministry ofAgriculture and Food) office. Also
available, are soil sample boxesand forms.
II- Sand Greens - Turfgrass nutri-tion studies have been done onsands in California. In these tests,nitrogen, phosphorous, and sul-phur were always found to be defi-cient. Research indicatessuperphosphate 0-20-0 can beused to add a relatively largeamount of phosphorous and sul-phur. This material does not leachrapidly nor injure plants. (Leach-ing is the removal of materials bysolution within the soil).
Nitrogen is a problem becausemost forms are soluble in waterand soon leach from the sands.Some of these forms would benitrates ammoniacals and ureas, aswell as most nitrogen mixes andblends. For an effective program,these have to be applied frequent-ly. Once the turfgrass is estab-lished, a 1/2 lb. per growingmonth gives very good sod.Natural organic fertilizers are notas soluble, they're called slowrelease, and are useful because ofless leaching and foliage burningis minimal. They last longer, soless interruption of play. They aremore expensive (OMAF publica-tion 383).
Best method, is to use a broadcastspreader; fill away from turfgrassarea so no damage to turf willresult. It is desirable to split theamount of fertilizer required sothat you cover the green twice.Once north/ south, onceeast/west. Spreading distancescan be noted by using markers ateach end of the green to minimizeoverlap. Best to fertilize once dewhas been removed and then waterin after application.
II- Weed Control- Cuts down onbumpiness caused by many broad-leafed weeds. If not a serious prob-lem, they can be removed with adandelion digger or knife, rootsand all. Most bowling greens willalso be plagued by some of the
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grasses such as annual bluegrassand crabgrass. These can be con-trolled with pre-emergent her-bicides (Ontario Ministry ofAgriculture and Food Publication529). Here again, attention shouldbe paid to the directions on thelabel. 2,40 will damage bent grasslawns. Mecoprop is good but bestapplied in the fall or coolerweather. Application of pesticidesrequires a licence and posting ofyour green is necessary 24 hoursin advance of spraying. Contactthe Ministry of Environment inyour area. Have a contractor spraywhen required.
,. Disease Control- Can often bea problem. One of the best preven-tions, where possible, is to avoidplanting large shade trees, orbuildings such as pavilions tooclose to the green or landscapeplantings. Irrigation should not beleft so puddling occurs. Aerifyingand thatch removal programs willhelp alleviate some fungus dis-eases. However, mostgreenskeepers will tell you awinter snow mould can be control-led with a preventive fungicide Oc-tober-November, depending onlocation, prior to first snowfall andagain if green is bare during mid-winter.
,. General Maintenance -Should include irrigation. Manygreens have underground pop upsystems controlled by moisturesensors or tensiometers. Manyclubs have to pay for water. Mostof the wear on bowling greens oc-curs on the ends. Scheduled move-ment of the rink markers two feetor more laterally will help to dis-tribute traffic and result in moreuniform wear. The practice of alter-nating the direction of play fromnorth/ south to east/ west is alsohelpful at times. A general rule ofthumb is to apply 1" of water perweek but this can vary as to soiltype, mowing heights, tempera-tures and scheduling between play.
Earthworms have not been men-tioned and, although have somebeneficial efforts such as breakingdown the thatch layer, aerationand some relief to compaction, areotherwise considered a nuisance.The cast are spread by machineryand bowlers. The mud is an idealenvironment for undesirablebroad-leafed weeds. The casts canalso cause an uneven turf surface,which can affect play. Earthwormscannot tolerate acid conditions soeven the use of previously-men-tioned superphosphate will dis-courage them or a sulphate iron.Pick up clippings, dethatching andaeration will also help, as they in-gest organic matter as their foodsupply. Chemicals do not give last-ing control since Chlordane wasbanned.
Bambooing, dragging a hose orbrooming is useful each day toremove dew. SYringing in hotweather will help during hot dryperiods. Most important is to ob-tain a calendar of bowling events,so maintenance can be completedaround these functions - to avoidconflict.
As Edgar R. Haley states in hisbook, The Construction of a BowlingGreen, lithe given draw should beexactly the same on every rink orgreen. Such a state can be confiden-tially expected on a properly con-structed and properly maintainedgreen."
Good luck to you all.
Acknowledgements to Bill Harding,North York Parks for his helpful infor-mation.
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Alene, a Kentucky bluegrassvariety, has a medium-darkgenetic colour and improveddisease resistance. The grassnormally germinates in sevento ten days. This rapid growthis particularly useful forrenovation and erosion preven-tion. In 40 days after planting,Alene can be expected toproduce 12 tillers for each see-dling.
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