Magpie

make: up

GPIETHE SEASONAL ACCESSORY GUIDE

the spring issue!

MA

£4.25 ISSUE 2

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magpie.com spring 2009

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CONTRIBUTORS

EYE CANDYA nice picture to set you on your way

WE SHARESpring’s hottest catwalk accessory trends

EYE SPYSunglasses to suit all

MAKE YOUR OWN...headband

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HEADS, SHOULDERS, KNEES & TOESThis season’s lookbook

I CONFESSHeels or no heels?

FASHION

FOCUS: IN THE CLOSET WITH...Student Janette Coalter

FOCUS: BREAKING THE MOULDJewellery designer Kirstie Maclaren

FOCUS: ICONLady Gaga

CULTURE: MAD HATTERV&A Hats: An anthology exhibition

CULTURE: DEBATEJewellery as art

FASHIONBest of British

SHHHH!Spanish Moss Vintage eBay boutique

THE BIG QUESTIONIs make-up the ultimate accessory?

WE SEEStyle on the streets of New York

2009SPRING

If you go down to the woods today

CONTENTS


JoY



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that spring clean has left plenty of space in our wardrobes for some new accessories...

EDITOR’S LETTER

Our favourite season is finally here! Our sense of individual

style is no longer hidden under thick winter coats, and that

Spring clean has left plenty of space in our wardrobes for

some new accessories.

It seems Spring 2009 is the season of the hair accessory.

From bows to bowler hats, head gear is definitely where it’s

at, and who sums this up better than this issue’s icon Lady

GaGa (pg 40). Take inspiration from the latest catwalk trends

(pg 12), get tips from the LookBook (pg 21) and even learn

how to Make Your Own (pg 19).

But, if head gear’s not your thing, fear not- we’ve got

lots more to offer. In Breaking The Mould (pg 38) innovative

jewellery designer Kirstie Maclaren invites us into her world

for a sneak peek at the new collection. We hit the streets of

New York to see what accessories are making it big Stateside

(pg 14) and ask The Big Question: Is make-up the Ultimate

Accessory? (pg 26) in this issue’s debate.

If it’s culture your after, head to the V&A for Stephen

Jones’ Hats: An Anthology (pg 45) or, if you’re looking for a

fashion-fix, we’ve got two stunning shoots to get you inspired.

As usual, the team have had bundles of fun with this issue,

and we hope you do too!

Abigail, Sarah & Claire

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MAGPIE MAGAZINE9 Berkeley road

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CONTACTS:

[email protected]

Sarah Wellsman

Abigail Richards

Claire Smith

special thanks to:

Kirstie Maclaren

Hannah Al-Shemmeri

Janette Coalter

Suzanne Carafano

Sophie Press

SUBSCRIPTIONS:

one year for £14 in the UK. International

orders available on request. Address

subscription orders and enquiries

to magpie, 9 Berkeley Road,

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reproduction without permission is

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luluMagpie magazine and everything contained

within is copyright of lulu media. No material

may be reproduced without written permission

from the publisher. The views and content of the

magazine are not necessarily those held by lulu

media, its directors or its employers.Cover image: Photographed by Bella Howard for Topshop.

Styled by Lucy Ascot. Cardigan by Kate Moss for Topshop, Bag by Topshop.

Sarah, who penned Breaking the Mould (pg 38), is a

journalist who loves getting all the juicy details. Well,

it made sense to give her curiosity some purpose. She

worked for Adrenaline, an extreme sports magazine,

before joining Magpie at the start of this year. Her

favourite accessory is a vintage leather Marc by Marc

Jacobs bag she nabbed off eBay, and a chunky gold

charm necklace she bought at a cute little boutique

in sunny Brighton.

CONTRIBUTORS

Abigail, this issue’s investigator to the big question,

Is Make Up the Ultimate Accessory? (pg 26) is an

entusistic journalist who loves the pace of the job. The

young journalist started her career as a freelancer

before being nabbed by Magpie late last year. Her

intrigue and love of vintage often sees her writing in the

culture section. Her favourite accessory is an emerald

pendant necklace given to her by her grandmother,

and her leather slouch boots from urban outfitters.

Claire Smith, who styled If You Go Down to The Woods

Today (p.30), is a fashion journalist who recently joined

the Magpie team after working on male fashion mag

Unit and extreme sports magazine Adrenaline with

our very own Sarah. A self-confessed vintage lover,

her must have accessories for this summer are a pair

of oversized vintage sunglasses from Rokit and some

fringed gladitor sandals that she’s watching on eBay,

perfect for the festival season.


magpie.com

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eye

candy

Forget chocolate or diamonds,

shoes are most definitely the way

to a girl’s heart.



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uellal This season is all about making a statement with your

accessories. At Luella, sticky-sweet confectionery colours

flooded the catwalk, with bubble gum pink and tango orange

oozing from gloves, bags and hair pieces. Think garden party

chic, with a splash of psychedelic colour.

Oversized floral bows and fluorescent netting prove that

hair accessories are here to stay, with fifties style shades and

red lipstick to match. Ruffle-edged gloves and pretty leather

handbags reflect a subtle combination of old English style

with rebellious cool. Take inspiration and experiment with one

or two key pieces, adding a pair of ankle socks and Mary-

Jane’s for that perfect preppy style.

Luella Spring/Summer 2009

Flower Power



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Topshopunique

Sportswear goes glam with pale pastel shades and geometric

prints at the Topshop Unique Spring/Summer 2009 catwalk.

With billowing jersey bows and curly beehives which would

put Amy Winehouse to shame, it was the eccentric details

that caught our attention.

Painted wooden wedges with sheer stockings provide a

quirky take on this season’s ankle-sock obsession, and suede

stilettos are a great alternative for those who are a little less

daring. Ice-cream pendants are cute and kitsch and give

off that summer seaside vibe, and black waist belts keep the

silhouette slim. Accessorise with colour and dare to be bright

and bold this Spring!

Bows are big!

Topshop Unique Spring/Summer 2009



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style on the STREETs

NEW YORK

Tanya, 24, Visual Merchandiser Eve, 25, Stylist



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We head stateside for a peek across the pond

we see

New Yorkers are known for their

statement style and the best place

to spot it is on the sidewalk, not the

catwalk. Filled with stylish city dwellers

who aren’t afraid of an accessory or

two, it’s an eclectic mix of vintage,

designer and high street.

Fashion students Paulina and Lauren

(top right) both combine black leather

boots with Ray-Bans for an ultra-chic

yet understated daytime look, but

Hayleigh (third from left) opts for pastel

shades with her beaded necklace and

sheepskin bolero. Tanya and Eve (first

two from left) give their own take on this

season’s headwear trend, and Maurie

keeps it casual with plimsoles, stripy

socks and oversized sunnies.

The trick is to look like you haven’t

even tried, so make sure to keep things

fresh this Spring. Play with texture,

pairing chunky wooden beads with a

silk headscarf or thick gold chains with

knitwear. You heard it here first!Paulina and Lauren, both 22, fashion students.

Eve, 25, Stylist Hayleigh, 19, beautician Maurie, 22, Waitress



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Sunglasses can change from season to season, but it's all about finding a style that suits your face shape.

Retro Super Future Mirror Sunglasses, £100

Retro Super Future Exclusive Hippy Tie Dye Sunglasses, £75 Spitfire Neon Sunglasses, £17.95



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From aviator to flat top, visor to over-sized, there is a

sunglasses style to suit all. They can round off an outfit

with a splash of colour or give it a retro edge, but it’s

important you find a shape which compliments your

face, along with your look. Finding the perfect pair

can often seem impossible: Miss Richie and Posh can pull-off

oversized sunnies to a tee, but you end up looking like a pea

head? To make shopping for shades a little easier, just follow

our guide and find a style which works for you:

Round shaped face

If you have a round shaped face, look for styles that have

thick-set brow bars or frames that are equal to the width of

your face. Square lenses will also give your face structure and

definition, emphasising the appearance of cheekbones.

Heart shaped face

If your face is heart shaped and you have high cheek bones,

light coloured or rimless frames will look great. And remember

aviators or angular shapes will balance out a smaller chin.

Square shaped face

If you have a square face stay away from square frames, and

reduce those hard angles by choosing soft gently curved

oval or round shaped frames.

Oval shaped face

And lastly, if you’re an oval-faced beauty, oversized shades

were made for you. Be bold and daring, the bigger the

better!

From top: Rayban Wayfarer Monochrome Sunglasses, £110. Spitfire

ASOS Exclusive Candy Bar orange Sunglasses, £18.95. 55DSL Contrast

Flat Top aqua Plastic Sunglasses, £72. Retro Super Future Exclusive

Oversized purple Sunglasses, £95.

oval

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heart


BETSEY JOHNSON.

ACCESSORIES

betseyjohnson.com



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MAKE YOUR OWN...

HAIRBAND1.5 metres of jersey fabric

Decorate the headband with your favourite

brooches.

Et Voilá! A hair band even Nicole Richie wouldn’t

be ashamed of getting papped in.

You will need:SCISSORS

needle and thread a selection of brooches

Cut a strip of your jersey fabric, making sure it’s

long enough to wrap around your head twice.

Stitch the two ends together to make a full circle,

then place the doubled-up fabric around your

head to make a hairband.


Jonathon Aston LONDON


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lookbook

THIS PAGE: Bow, £18, Johnny Loves Rosie and Necklace, £45, Urban Outfitters.

OPPOSITE (clockwise from top left): Headscarf, £15.99, Laura Ashley; Bowler hat, £22, Absolute Vintage and Necklace, £129, Laura Tabor; Boater Hat, £18 Absolute Vintage; Corsage, £10, Accessorize and necklace, £39, Lola Rose.



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THIS PAGE: Socks, £8.95, Celeste Stein and Mary Janes, £95, KG by Kurt Geiger.

OPPOSITE (clockwise from top left):Tights, £22, and Shoes, £45, both Urban Outfitters; Moccasin Boots, £120,

Minnetonka; Knee Socks, £7, Jonathon Aston and Shoes, £65, Topshop; Denim Leggings, £20, Topshop and Fringe Sandals, £45, Urban Outfitters.



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Make up

The Ultimate Accessory

NoIt’s not that I’m an au-naturale sort of girl. In fact, I never leave

the house without the aid of my trusty eyebrow pencil and three

layers of mascara (oh how I envy the dark-haired beauties who

escape the redhead curse of white eyebrows and eyelashes…)

but for me make-up is more a necessity than an accessory.

Accessories are meant to be the trimmings that can

instantly up-date, dress-up or dress-down an outfit. While I’m the

first to agree that make-up can do wonders for a girl, to claim

that it can alter the overall look of an outfit seems like a slight

overstatement. There’s only so much lipstick can do.

Over the years my make-up has developed into a standard

system and it’s difficult to see how something can something

be seen as an accessory when it remains the same every

day. Furthermore, my signature black eyeliner, lip balm and

foundation with a hint of bronzer combo hardly draw the same

compliments as a new vintage clutch or tooled belt.

On the frequent occasions I find myself, yet again, wearing

my failsafe LBD, I turn to my collection of belts, bags and bling to

put a new twist on the outfit. Everyone’s usually so distracted by

my statement necklace or on-trend bowler hat that they don’t

even notice I’m in the same frock as last week, a trick I’m sure

wouldn’t work half as well were I to rely on my MAC lipgloss alone.

Of course, I’m not denying that make-up has the ability to be

classed as an accessory- just look at Diesel’s Black Gold Spring/

Summer 09 collection where models sported pink and blue

eyebrows. But such statement make-up is rarely experimented

with by us mere mortals, and with good reason I fear. Some

trends should be left on the catwalk…

says Claire Smith

Calvin Klein SS09



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the big question

Make-up. We’ve all worn it, even if it‘s a dot of concealer in the morning to hide our tired eyes. But what about when make-up becomes more than that as an addition to an outfit. Is it possible to not only dress for success but be made-up for success? Enter the debate as two cosmetic queens battle it ask the question: Is make-up the ultimate accessory?

yesMake-up is definitely the ultimate accessory for women today.

Its so versatile, and the range of products available mean the

possibilities are endless. If your body is a blank canvas then the

make-up is the paint. I truly believe make-up can transform your

look and define your style. Clothing and the rest are just the finishing

dressing and do not decide the overall look.

Like most girls, make-up has always played a huge role in my

fashion life. It saw me through my young teen years where smoked

dark eyes and lips represented my sombre, moody rebellion.

Moving to my latter teens where overly applied make-up was used

as a ploy to hide my real tender age of seventeen. In my twenties

experiments with false eyelashes and vivid colour symbolised my fun,

wild times at university, only to finally resign at an overall natural

look. Blemish free, neutral lips and natural brown eye make-up, another

ploy, but this time to look younger than my years.

The ultimate accessory not only accentuates an outfit but also

provides an insight into the individual- a welcome convenience in

my ever jam packed day to day schedule.

From expensive, mature brands such as Estee Lauder and MAC,

to younger, more affordable brands like 17 and Rimmel, make-up

is a universal trend which is adored from teenagers to the elderly.

As with any type of fashion, new styles come and go, but make-up

can be adapted to suit the individual in a variety of different ways,

unlike other mass produced accessories.

Not only is this an accessory with infinite compositions, it can

be carried around unnoticed in your handbag for regular updates

and last minute transformations to take you from office to pub. Is

this not the role of an ultimate accessory?

says abigail richards

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Alexander McQueen SS09

Alexander McQueen SS09



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HEELS OR NO HEELS?

Now, I’m not an idiot.

I had guessed

that walking in high

heels might be a bit

different from flats

I’m a girl who loves her accessories. I can spend hours

deciding what colour scarf I want or what belt I’m going

to wear on a night out and it’s taken me years to select the

perfect shade of lipstick. But one thing I’ve never been a

fan of is high heels. It’s something my friends and countless exes

have always picked up on, but to be honest I’m tall enough as it

is without adding another 5 inches.

But it is one of those things that tends to nag away at you.

I mean, what’s the big fuss about afew extra inches? I began

to wonder if everyone else thought they were so great, wasn’t

it possible, even probable that I was missing out on something

really good. Maybe my lack of high heels was the reason I was

single in a city full of men. As I said, it was beginning to eat

away at me.

Finally, last Friday, I gave in. I had a really hot date with a guy

from my waxing place (hey, he’s just metrosexual right?) and

I wanted to stand out and make an impact. My flatmate was

adamant that high heels were the way to go.

At first I was reluctant, I mean, what difference

was making me taller going to make? But I was

weak and, under pressure, I caved.

I got dressed and strapped on a pair of my

friends black stilettos. I have to say, I did like the

way they looked from where I was sitting on the

bed. They made my legs look somehow more

feminine, more voluptuous. I was beginning to regret the many

years I had spent painstakingly avoiding these things. I decided I

would get up and have a look in the mirror. Bad idea.

Now, I’m not an idiot. I had worked out that walking in high

heels might be a bit different from flats, and I’d heard stories

about women falling over, but I was pretty sure the stories were

exaggerated. I can do my lipstick while driving and ringing my

boss to tell her I’m stuck in traffic, if I can do that then how hard

could this be?

I found out the answer to that particular question as I made my

uncoordinated and rapid journey across my flatmate’s bedroom

before colliding head-first with her dresser. To say my first attempt

was unsuccessful would be an understatement. I felt as if I’d just



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been hit in the head with a log and I was sprawled, open-

legged on my friend’s bedroom floor. My flatmate was, to be

diplomatic, unsympathetic. If we’re being undiplomatic, she

was wetting herself.

Anyway, to cut a long story short, I eventually plucked

up the courage to have another go and, with a bit of help

from my still hysterical friend, I began to make some progress.

Enough at least to feel confident enough to walk without

holding my friends arm. Things were beginning to look up.

Then I noticed the time, I had half an hour before my date

picked me up. I panicked.

There was no way I could change my shoes. I was already

wearing the outfit and I’d never find another pair of shoes

that would go with it in time. And it had taken me 15 painful

minutes just to get into the dress so there was no way that was

going to be changed. The only option was to either go with

what I had on or cancel the date. I decided to go with what I

had on. In hindsight, I now see that was probably a mistake.

He picked me up five minutes early which I liked and

held my hand while he walked me to his car. I liked that too.

Firstly because it showed he was a gentleman and secondly

because without his help I may well have free-styled into the

nearest hedge. As it was, I maintained my ladylike walk and

decorum right until we arrived at the restaurant.

It was at this moment that I was confronted with a

situation no woman enjoys, but always seems to have to

endure: we ran into his ex. To say it was awkward would

be an understatement. We were stood 3 yards away in the

line for a table and it took 10 minutes before either of them

would admit they had seen one another. They exchanged

polite hellos and then my date introduced me. Focused on

maintaining decorum and composure I forgot about the

shoes. I lent forward to shake her hand.

Wham. Next thing I know I’ve fallen flat on my face and

one of my flailing arms has caught the woman straight in the

mouth. My date is looking at me with a look that can only be

described as amused disgust. His ex is crying. I know the date

is ruined, I just want to slink back to my apartment and not

come out for a week. Unfortunately the restaurant security

team has other ideas.

Kicking up a storm worthy of the arrest of a serial killer,

I was grabbed by both arms and swung into the air. In my

surprise I kick out, no doubt adding to the drama of the whole

situation. My hair is a mess and my dress is hitched up over

my bum showing off beautifully the body-shaping pants I

have worn on the date. To the excited onlookers, I must have

looked absolutely frenzied. I was forcefully ejected from

the restaurant and told by a man, who looked a bit like an

overweight Mr T, that I was banned for life.

To add insult to injury, I’ve now heard my hot date bought

his ex dinner to say sorry and they’ve ended up getting back

together. I think it’s fair to say that’s the end of my relationship

with high heels.

“Wham. Next thing I know I’ve fallen flat on my

face”


PHOTOGRAPHER: CLAIRE SMITHMODEL: SOPHIE PRESSSTYLING: SARAH WELLSMAN



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Bangles, from a selection at ModCloth.

PREVIOUS PAGE: Bag, £32, Urban Outfitters




THIS PAGE: Earrings, £10, Urban Outfitters;

Necklace, £45, All Saints.

OPPOSITE: Scarf, £15 ,Rokit



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What one item from your wardrobe

could you not live without?

A denim bag I found in a vintage shop,

it’s hand-made and has the cutest red

and white polka-dot lining. It’s quite

roomy too, with lots of pockets, so it’s

great to use as an everyday bag.

What do you turn to when you’re having

a wardrobe dilemma?

I’ll usually throw on a Tshirt dress if I don’t

know what to wear, but my ankle boots

from Tokyo are my secret weapon; they

can make even the most boring of

outfits look edgy.

What is your most prized possession?

A brooch that my Grandmother gave

me when I was about six. I wear it with

absolutely everything; on handbags,

scarves, I even attached it to some

fabric to make a belt.

Who is your celebrity style icon?

I think Alexa Chung always looks

amazing. She wears quite simple

clothes, but always manages to make

them look quirky with her accessories

and layered jewellery.

What’s on your wish-list?

I’m watching a vintage Chanel

handbag on eBay at the moment. I’m

not one for designer ‘It’ bags, as they go

out of fashion so quickly, but a Chanel

handbag is a classic.

What can a girl never have enough of?

I know most girls would say shoes, but

I’ve got a real thing for hair-accessories.

I’ve collected so many over the years,

from antique hair combs to great big

eighties-style bows. They’re a great way

to update your outfits and make your

look stand out from the crowd.

“My ankle boots

from tokyo make

even the most

boring outfits

look edgy”

In the c loset wi th...

Janette CoalterA 21-YEAR-OLD STUDENT FROM Northern Ireland

Clockwise: Janette with her wardrobe; her favourite vintage bag; her failsafe ankle boots from Tokyo

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focus

breaking the mould

With her quirky use of materials and unique creations, jewellery designer,Kirstie Maclaren, is taking the world of accessories by storm.

Kirstie basks in the sunshine outside her workshop



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focus

Kirstie Maclaren is perched

on a stool in her workshop,

surrounded by an unusual

assortment of bits and pieces.

To her left sits a row of jam jars, a rainbow

spectrum of vibrant coloured liquid. To

her right are endless bundles of wool,

cotton, felt and fabric, and various

spools of metal and copper wire. Her

fingers are stained berry red and purple;

the colour is so deep it looks as though

they may remain that shade for months

to come.

This little outhouse at the end of the

garden is where she says she spends

most of her time, it’s where she “gets

creative”. Pushing the boundaries of

jewellery design and experimenting

with new methods is what her work is all

about. It’s plain to see she has always

had a rebelliously creative streak for

doing things a bit differently.

Magpie: What do you love about

designing jewellery?

Kirstie Maclaren: I love that it can be

art, I enjoy pushing boundaries with

the realms of ‘wearable’ jewellery.

Practicality isn’t always necessary!

M: Where did your passion stem from?

KM: I have always loved exploring,

picking up bits and bobs and collecting

little things that catch my eye. I get

bored of what’s available on the high

street, so I have always bought my

accessories from vintage shops or on

eBay, or made them myself. I loved

art and textiles at school, so went on

to do a Jewellery BA Hons degree at

Middlesex University. I’ve just graduated

and can’t wait to develop my own style

even further.

M: What materials do you enjoy working

with the most?

KM: At the moment, I would say fabric

- mostly cotton and felt, although I still

haven’t decided what materials are

my favourite. I’m still discovering new

methods all the time, most of my work is

trial and error and experimentation.

M: What inspires your designs?

KM: I hate to sound crafty but nature

really does inspire me, but not in a

traditional organic way. I’m particularly

interested in natural dyes at the

moment, and human interaction within

nature. One of my projects sparked

from the idea of blackberry picking

and the colour left on your fingers

afterwards. I then started looking at fruit

and natural dyes and began staining

various materials with an assortment of

colours, including beetroot, carrot and

lime. I think people get caught up in

the fact that jewellery should be dainty

and sparkling clean, but I’m trying to

challenge that.

M: How do you come up with a creative

concept for a design?

KM: Most of my ideas begin with

research. I love to travel, and I’m always

taking plenty of snaps, these give me

all kinds of inspiration. I prefer fashion

magazines to looking at jewellery books,

as they are always changing and up to

date. I often refer to architecture and

graphic design magazines too.

M: Do you prefer form and design over

function?

KM: I think both are very important, and

you should try to get a balance. How I

work varies depending on what material

I’m using. Sometimes the design is very

important in order for something to work

or function properly. Whereas some of

my pieces have no function at all and

I am more interested in how the wearer

interacts with my pieces.

M: What are your plans for the future?

KM: I hope to own my own jewellery

shop in the future, so I can be my own

boss and not have to design within any

boundaries. My plan is to first travel

around Europe for inspiration, so I can

combine an eclectic mix of influences

into my designs and source new ideas. I

have such a passion for what I do, it will

never feel like work to me, I just hope

other people get what I’m trying to do.

I hate to sound crafty but nature really does inspire

me. one of my projects sparked from the idea of

blackberry picking and the colour left

on your fingers.

“

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Kirstie wearing one of her blackberry creations


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38

focus

2009 has seen Lady Gaga burst on to the pop scene

with her first two singles ‘Just Dance’ and ‘Poker Face’

souring in the charts. but, despite her music success,

the artist is best known for her public image and risque

fashion choices, Not to mention those bows!Lad

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Lady Gaga, formerly known

as Stefani Joanne Angelina

Germanotta, hasn’t always

been so outspoken in the fashion

department. Previously a more

subdued brunette, the transformation

to platinum blonde seemed to mark

her transition to pop diva. Not content

with just producing great music, the

current artist views her performance

as a whole, and it’s clear that image is

high on her list of priorities. Gaga says:

“When I’m writing music, I’m thinking

about the clothes I want to wear on

stage. It’s about everything altogether —

performance,art, fashion.”

Many have criticized the star for her

skin-tight, bum-skimming outfits, but

the star strongly defends her quirky,

eccentric style. With such little clothing

the Lady often lets her accessories do

the talking for her. One statement piece

that seems to have defined the star is

the oversized bow often worn in her hair.

This is often fashioned out of her own

locks, but increasingly we are seeing this

iconic piece replicated in stores on the

highstreet and even on catwalks.

Her ensembles of outlandish hair

pieces, leather gloves and statement

sunglasses, whether rain or shine, have

made the star fashion’s new muse. With

Peggy Bundy and Donatella Versace

as fashion icons her look is anything but

minimal. “I look at those as icons in art.

It’s not just about the music. It’s about

the performance, the attitude, the

look; it’s everything. And, that is where I

live as an artist and that is what I want

to accomplish.” A style icon in her own

right, Lady Gaga may be controversial,

but she sure knows how to have fun.

“When I’m writing music I’m thinking about the clothes I want to wear

on stage. It ’s all about

everything together -

performance. art.

fashion.”

Playing with the paparazzi in London



focus

42

Her wild, theatrical, and often tongue-

in-cheek “shock art” performances are

always mirrored in the outfits she wears.

Always at the cutting edge of fashion

her outfits are less than practical for the

everyday working woman. However,

inspiration can be taken from her

choice of accessories. Accessories have

become hugely emphasised in current

fashion with lavish textured headbands

and jewelled corsages becoming main

statement pieces. From Gaga bows to

sequined flowers, they’re everywhere

in high street stores, or can be found in

smaller boutiques for a more original

quirky twist.

So, whether you love or hate the Lady,

you cannot ignore her. Her aversion

to wearing a top and bottoms at the

same time may leave her looking bare

but she certainly makes up for this in the

accessory stakes.

Her flamboyant overindulgence in

jewellery, hair pieces and sunglasses are

often theatrical and stage like, but this is

what has defined the star and seems to

make her a major influence in the world

of pop culture.

“I look at those artists

as icons in art. It’s not

just about the music. It’s

about the performance,

the attitutde, the look,

it’s everything. And that

is where I live as an

artist and that is what

I want to accomplish.”


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LONDON COPENHAGEN STOCKHOLMHAMBURG NEW YORK LOS ANGELESBOSTON SEATTLE TORONTO MOTREAL



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alongside modern designers’ interpretations of hat styles like

the tricorn, bowler and even baseball cap.

The showcase the continues through to Creation- a novel

space set up as a milliner’s workroom and filled with traditional

patterns, materials and millinery blocks that reveal how the

art of bespoke hat-making has remained virtually unchanged

over the past century.

The Salon section of the exhibition relates to the ‘salon’

environment, based on that of the haute couture fashion

houses which became popular with hat designers in at the

beginning of the 20th Century wanting to create an exclusive

environment for their clientele.

It is the client that Jones focuses on in the final part of the

exhibition as, he explains: “They are the ones to ultimately

give the hat its life and launch it into the world.”

From Victoria and Albert’s headgear to the Phillip Traecy

floral construction donned by SJP at the Sex and the City

premiere, Hats: An Anthology provides an insightful look into

the mysterious world of hats that we’ve come to love, fear

and be fascinated by.

00

It used to be the case that an outfit was nothing without

its co-ordinating hat, bag and shoes but nowadays,

while the latter two still remain highly coveted, the hat

has drifted almost into obscurity.

With the exception of the odd eccentric fashionista,

hats rarely creep into our wardrobes anymore unless there’s

wedding bells ringing.

But, despite this sad fact, the V&A’s new exhibition

‘Hats: An Anthology’, is anything but an obituary to the

demise of headwear in society; rather, it is a celebration

of the significant role in which hats have played in some of

histories most iconic moments.

The exhibition is curated by one of the world’s most

prominent milliners, Stephen Jones, and features hats from

Ancient Egyptian times right up to present day.

The oldest in the collection is a linen and papyrus hat

featuring the Jackal-headed Egyptian god, Anubis, of

which Jones says:

“It’s in marvellous condition considering it’s 2,600 years

old, it’s what I based a headdress on for the spring/summer

Dior couture show in 2004.”

After travelling the world for two years, and examining

over 7,000 hats to select the lucky 300 that made the cut,

Jones says the final exhibition exemplifies the varying roles of

the hat as a tribal and social necessity, military prerequisite

and fashion phenomena.

The exhibition has been arranged to guide you through

the lifecycle of a hat, from inspiration and creation to the

salon and, finally, the client.

The first section, Inspiration, demonstrates how history

has affected modern design with inclusions such as Queen

Victoria and Prince Albert’s bonnet and black topper set

THE LATE, ICONIC ISABELLA BLOW WEARING A PHILLIP TRAECY CREATION

45

culture

HATS: AN ANTHOLOGY BY STEPHEN JONES AT THE V&A24 FEB – 31 MAY 2009

From sacred masks to modern masterpieces, the famous milliner takes us on a timeline of head wear through the ages



46

cultu

re

Jewellery as art



47

cultureart is defined as having no other

purpose than itself. enter the debate,

is fashion art?

Fashion, like art, may be

approached in terms of

style, attribution and the

accurate dating of artefacts.

The similarities cannot be denied,

but the step from similar to identical

is a significant one. A top, however

aesthetically pleasing it may be, cannot

be said to have any function other than

itself. Which introduces the question,

what about accessories?

In a consumer driven society where

want has become need, are accessories

bought for function or

fashion? What it boils

down to is accessories

sell themselves by

being pretty and

are by no means

a necessity, much

like art. Therefore, is

this not just another

medium for an artist to

express themselves?

For instance, the most

recent collection of

jewellery designer

Giselle Ganne is an expression of the

emotion of mourning. Her use of colours,

textures and shapes within her jewellery

are all designed to evoke the emotion

of ‘Gloomy’. Is this so different to the

intention of Edgar Degas’ in his painting

‘The Absinthe Drinker’? In this sense at

least, is a designer not an artist?

Regardless of whether fashion and

art are one, art is certainly a major

influence and has been for many years.

Even in the 1930s fashion designers

and artists were running in the same

circles and even collaborated on some

projects. The most famous of which

being Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador

Dali, who shocked critics with their

unique and daring designs.

The fusion of fashion and art has

definitely not stopped there with famous

artists and art movements continuing

Get yoursto grace fashion items. Andy Warhol

is just one artist who has noticeably

had an influence with his pop art prints

adorning everything from handbags to

socks. However, the most prominent art

movements to be replicated in fashion

accessories are that of Art Nouveau

and Art Deco.

These 20th century French art

movements have made a significant

difference in the trends of jewellery

design. Both the gentle feminine, floral

lines of art nouveau and contrasting

sharp angular

edges of Art Deco

have influenced

the fashion world.

Art Deco especially

seems to be

dominating this

seasons accessories.

Lara Bohic is just

one of the designers

who has created

jewellery that some

say can only be

described as art,

with a combination of architectural

shapes, Art Deco influences and elegant

timeless design. Hollywood also has its

own visual timeline of artistic influence

on its jewellery, and this a progressive

tendency that has only increased.

I suppose, looking at all the factors,

some accessories and therefore some

fashion could be defined as art. But

to do so takes something away from

fashion itself. In fact, when you delve

below the surface, you discover that

there is no need to compare the two.

The intricate entwinement of the art and

fashion worlds mean analysis is useless.

The bottom line is, whether you believe

fashion is art, or even art is fashion, as

with all things the boundaries are not

black and white and these worlds will

continue to cross paths, the important

thing is that we all enjoy wearing it.

“Both the gentle

feminine, floral lines

of art nouveau and

contrasting sharp

angular edges of art

deco have influenced

the fashion world”

Junk Jewels, £22

Perfectly Vintage, £34

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magpie.com

BESTOF

Photographed by Bella HowardStylist: Lucy AscotHair: Leon Gorman using RedkenMake-up: Tina Bantry using MACModel: Naomi at Elite


magpie.com

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Union jack scarf, £58, Paul & Joe.

Denim Corset bra, £26, Urban Outfitters.


magpie.com

cre

dits

Studded leather clutch, £105, All Saints.


Geometric print scarf, £39, Urban Outfitters. Studded leather sinny belt, £22, Rokit.


Snake gladiator heels, £95, Emma Cook for Topshop.


magpie.com

54

spring 2009

shhh

h!

Spanish Moss vintageeBay has never been cooler...he ultimate online market place, eBay,

has always been a Mecca for vintage

fans, but sifting through the trash for

hidden treasure can be time consuming.

So here at Magpie we’ve unearthed a

little gem which does all the hard work

for you, it’s almost too good to share!

Spanish Moss Vintage, an eBay

boutique based in the US, adds 40

stunning new vintage pieces to the

site each week. Ranging from mod to

bohemian, disco to hippy, there are

plenty of items worthy of an up-all-night

bidding war.

Well-organised, well-stocked and

reasonably priced, Spanish Moss

doesn’t disappoint on any level. With a

full measurement chart for each item,

and endless high quality photos, you’ll

have no nasty surprise when you open

up that parcel.

Suzanne Carafano, the shop’s

creator, makes it her mission to find the

best vintage accessories from all over

the United States:

“Where I find my pieces is the closest

kept secret in the industry, but I always

make sure they are great garments and

accessories which have already stood

the test of time.”

With a vintage stock now too large

to sell on eBay, Spanish Moss Vintage

will be launching a new website in

May 2009, selling 400 stunning vintage

items, along with Suzanna, an exclusive

vintage inspired accessories line.

“The range will be designed and

produced in downtown Los Angeles,

previewing on May 6th. There will also be

a blog to keep customers updated on

the latest street style and runway trends,

art, literature, music and progressive

culture, written by carefully selected

Fashionistas and LA ‘IT’ girls.”

Well, what are you waiting for? Grab

that vintage bargain while you can!tW

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Spanish Moss vintage

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Vivienne WestwoodACCESSORIES


Magpie

Documents

ultimate accessory

anthology pg

comaccessory template

hair accessory

mould pg

lookbook pg

joyaccessory template

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