The Flatwork Shop » General Woodworking » Lynns Box Joint Jig http://worldofwood.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=genwork&action=display&thread=1509 Lynns Box Joint Jig Post by arcticfox46 on Jan 24, 2010, 3:47pm Lynns Box Joint Jig Pic-A I don’t really know who Lynn is or the real source of the origin of this design. I do know that it has gone through a couple of design iterations – including some my own. I will not take credit for the design. I am however, documenting a more detailed instruction on how to make it – from start – to finished jig. I will also include instructions on how to use it. I will eventually create a model in Solidworks and make detailed drawings of every part, including the parts I added. I will also build a full BOM (Bill of Materials. Here are some reference links to the web sites I used for the basic information: http://www.leestyron.com/lynnjig.php http://www.leestyron.com/lynnsjig.pdf http://www.leestyron.com/images/LJ1.swf http://www.leestyron.com/newlynnjig.php It’s a little difficult to sort out just exactly what is going on in those places – but I will put it all together into ONE tutorial here. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Lynns Box Joint Jig http://worldofwood.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=genwork&action=pr... 1 of 21 03/25/11 14:29
This document is posted to help you gain knowledge. Please leave a comment to let me know what you think about it! Share it to your friends and learn new things together.
Transcript
The Flatwork Shop » General Woodworking » Lynns Box Joint Jighttp://worldofwood.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=genwork&action=display&thread=1509
Lynns Box Joint JigPost by arcticfox46 on Jan 24, 2010, 3:47pm
Lynns Box Joint Jig
Pic-A
I don’t really know who Lynn is or the real source of the origin of this design. I do know that it has gone through a couple ofdesign iterations – including some my own. I will not take credit for the design. I am however, documenting a more detailedinstruction on how to make it – from start – to finished jig. I will also include instructions on how to use it.
I will eventually create a model in Solidworks and make detailed drawings of every part, including the parts I added. I will alsobuild a full BOM (Bill of Materials.
Here are some reference links to the web sites I used for the basic information:
Sand all joints flush – clean up all excess glue. (optional-cosmetic)
Pic-10Glue and brad nail bottom to upper assembly using 1” brad or finish nails. Do not nail within 1” of middle. That is where thesaw blade will be cutting.
Grind both ends of rod constantly turning the rod while grinding, like sharpening a pencil. One position, perpendicular to thewheel – then at about 30 to 45 degrees to the wheel. Wheel rotation going from the outside of the rod towards the center ofthe rod. That pushes any burs away from the thread. Finish on the bench with a very fine file. Again file from the outside ofthe rod towards the center. You will end up with burr free threads and the nuts will fit easily.
On one end place a fender washer – nut – flat washer – nut, in that order. Lock the nuts together at the very end of the rod.The fender washer will remain loose.
The reason for the washer is to act as a support for the nut driver. The socket will stay engaged on the one nut and not getstuck on the jam nut.
This will be very helpful in driving the rod. Remember the 16 pitch means it takes 1 full revolution to advance the rod 1/16 inch– or – 16 turns to advance 1 full inch. You’re going to be advancing around 25-30 inches. I little help will be needed,
Once the rod is through – you need to hand screw the tee nut with no tabs onto the rod until it bottoms out.
The threaded rod should turn freely. If it is bound and does not turn freely – unscrew the tabless nut a little so that the rodturns freely. Then screw in ONE small screw into one hole in the tee nut.. Do NOT tighten the screw or the threads will bind.The screw the only to hold the tee nut from turning.
Cut a 1-1/2” x 4” piece for the handle. Use a fender washer to tract out the curves for the ends. I sanded the ends in a fewminutes on a HF disk sander.
Drill 7/16 hold on one end and a 3/16 hole with countersink at the other end.Of course sand it.
Assemble the crank and handle with glue and a 2” screw. Do not pay attention the fence slide attachment in the picture – Idecided to not use it and removed it.
Now put the handle on as shown.Nut – plain washer – fender washer – handle – fender washer –plain washer – nutTighten loosely together – we will be coming back to this later,
Pic-33
I decided to attach the unit two niter gages – and not to the fence like the instructions refer to.
The center of the jig should be over the center of the blade – then secure the jig to the two miter gauges.
Make a cut in the center in the jig.
Set the edge of the slide to the edge of the blade.
Now adjust handle so that it hangs is straight down,