-
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Banff , Jasper & Glacier ............. 220 Top
Experiences ....... 6Need to Know ................. 18What’s New
..................... 20If You Like... .....................
21Month by Month ............. 24Itineraries
........................ 26Activities .........................
30Travel with Children ...... 42Travel with Pets ..............
47Regions at a Glance ....... 50
YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions
to help you put together your perfect trip
UNDERSTAND BANFF, JASPER & GLACIER NATIONAL PARKS
The Parks Today ............. 230History
............................. 232Geology
........................... 240Wildlife
............................. 243Conservation ..................
250
The Parks Today Visitor Experience v Ecological Integrity As
four of the world’s oldest and most symbolic national parks, Ban
,Jasper, Glacier and Waterton face a di cult modern quandary. On
one hand they proudly represent what – in the words of a 2009 Emmy
award–winning documentary – was ‘America’s best idea.’ On the
other,they remain litmus tests for the planet’s ongoing battle to
protect its wildbut delicate ecosystems from multiple human
threats.
Set up in the late 19th and early 20th century as ‘parks for the
people,’ the underlying philosophies that guide how these protected
areas aremanaged have shifted signi cantly in the last decade with
the focus mov-ing away from the ‘visitor experience’ mantra of the
early conservationistmovement toward the more pressing question of
‘ecological integrity.’ This debate has grown more heated since the
1960s when the damagewreaked by millions of annual visitors rst
became worryingly apparent.
Ban at the Crossroads These days an estimated ve million people
pass through Ban annually and, due to the environmental pressure
caused by such large numbers,many feel that the town has been
stretched to its limit. Actions to tacklethis problem began in the
early 1990s and in 1996, after two exhaustive years of research,
the Ban -Bow Valley study compiled a 75- age
cument called At the Crossroads. Echoing the fears of many, the
re ortstressed that if Ban ’s development plans and burgeoning
visitor numbers were allowed to continue unchecked the ark’s
ecological integrity
pulation of Townsite:
rage ber of s spent visitor in er National 11.9
mmals by cars
sper 2010:
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“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is
over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
PAGE
2
PAGE
229GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP
Learn about the big picture, so you
can make sense of what you see
Which national park you visit really depends on two things: what
you want to see and how much time you have to spare. The vast
majority of visitors kick off their stay in Banff, thanks to its
comprehensive facilities, plentiful restaurants and family-friendly
activities, not to mention easy access to wonderful trails.
If you have a bit more time for your trip, Jasper is the next
natural stop, particularly if you’re interested in wildlife
watching and backcountry hiking. Glacier receives far fewer
visitors than the other two parks, so it’s the best option if you
prefer the trails to be quiet and the crowds to be few and far
between.
Ban Day Hikes Mountains Snow Sports
Scenic Wonders There’s a good reason that Ban is Canada’s most
popular national park – it’s home to some of the most fabulous
mountain scenery in the Rocky Mountains. Gleaming glaciers,
snow-dusted peaks, roaring rivers: Ban ’s got it all.
Landmark Lakes Ban ’s lakes are impos-sible to miss, re ecting a
myriad of colors under ever-changing skies, from vivid turquoises
to emerald greens and ery oranges. Lake Louise and Moraine Lake
draw the biggest crowds, but there are many more to discover.
Hot Springs Ban is synonymous with its geothermal springs. They
were the park’s main attrac-tion for early visitors, and they’re
still a highlight. Sit back in the naturally heated hot pools and
drink in the wraparound mountain views.
p 54
regions at a glance
50
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Need to Know
Entrance Fees » Banff/Jasper day
pass: adult C$9.80, group/family C$19.60
» Glacier weekly pass (summer): per vehicle US$25
Number of visitors (2010)
» Banff: 3,174,043 » Jasper: 1,976,928 » Glacier: 2,200,048
High Season » July and August are
busiest months » Mainly warm
weather and sunny skies, but be prepared for sudden
thunderstorms
» Trail closures and hiking restrictions during buffaloberry
season (mid-July onwards)
Shoulder Season
» Spring comes late, with snow lingering until May or June
» Many lakes are frozen and some trails remain closed until
early summer
» June is the wettest month in Banff and Jasper
Low Season » Late March to
May is the quietest season
» Accommodations can be cheap, but many campgrounds, trails and
activities are closed
When to Go
Jasper National ParkGO May-Jun & Sep-Oct (hiking)
GO Dec-Jan (skiing)
Banff National ParkGO May-Jun & Sep-Oct (hiking)
GO Dec-Jan (skiing)
Waterton Lakes National ParkGO May-Jun & Sep-Oct
(hiking)
GO Dec-Jan (skiing)
Glacier National ParkGO May-Jun & Sep-Oct (hiking)
GO Dec-Jan (skiing)
Dry climateWarm to hot summers, cold wintersMild summers, cold
winters
Your Daily Budget Budget less than
C$100 » Dorm room in hostel
C$30-40
» Self-catering from supermarkets C$20
» Hiking on local trails using public transport
Midrange
C$200–300
» Double room C$120-180
» Lunch and dinner with drinks C$50
» One day’s compact car hire C$50
Top End over
C$400 » Suite in luxury hotel or
lodge C$300
» Three-course meal with wine C$80-100
» Guided minibus tour C$100
18
03-need-to-know-np-bjg3.indd 18 19/10/2011 6:31:55 PM
PLAN YO
UR TRIP ITIN
ERA
RIES
#
#
÷
÷
Golden
RadiumHot
Springs
Castle Junction
Lake Louise Village
Banff Town
KootenayNationalPark
YohoNationalPark
C-LevelCirque
JohnstonCanyon
SunshineMeadows
StanleyGlacier
Burgess Shale
Bow ValleyParkway
LakeMinnewanka
CastleLookout
#÷Banff
NationalPark
Moraine Lake
Lake Louise
Icefields Parkway
É
É
É
É
É
É
É
É
É
É
É
É
#
#
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•
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# #
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• •
•
••
•
•
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Beyond BanffBanff Essentials
Five DaysBan Essentials
With ve days you should have just enough time to see Ban ’s key
sights. Kick o with a day exploring Ban Town, a lively
mini-metropolis with a
cosmopolitan mix of shops, bistros, pubs and museums. Check in
for some chateau luxury at the historic Fairmont Ban Springs
Ho-tel, followed by a day exploring Lake Min-newanka, canoeing on
the Bow River and relaxing in the Upper Hot Springs Pool
One WeekBeyond Ban
This itinerary takes in some of Ban ’s top day hikes, and then
heads into the neighboring national parks. For the rst few days,
base yourself in Ban
Town and spend the time breaking in those boots: you could hike
up to a hidden ice eld at the C-Level Cirque, admire the Bow
Val-ley from Castle Lookout, or trek through the colorful wild
owers of Sunshine Meadows.
From Ban head west across the Alber
27
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11:21:00 AM(1,1) -2- banff-jasper-and-glacier-np-3-cover.indd
16/11/2011 11:21:00 AM
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
-
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you
to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In
return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal,
non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload
this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you
know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a
longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our
content.’
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
-
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Oliver BerryBrendan Sainsbury
GlacierNational Park
p176
BanffNational Park
p54
JasperNational Park
p137
YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
In-depth reviews, detailed listings
and insider tips
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Directory A–Z ................. 254Transportation
............... 261Health & Safety .............. 266Clothing
& Equipment ... 272Index ................................
280Map Legend .................... 287
VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO
HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP
ON THE ROAD
Keeping healthy while on vacation in the national parks depends
on your pre-departure preparations, your daily health care while
traveling and how you handle any medical problems that develop.
While the potential problems can seem quite daunting, in reality
few travel-ers experience anything more than an upset stomach.
If you have an emergency while staying in the national parks
dial %911. Major cent-ers like Ban , Jasper and Wa-terton have
medical facilities; see p 267 . If you’re traveling
t of your home country, ure to purchase medical
nce before you leave. It portant to read the
all print and as-what you are
Medical the
be sure to have a physician’s letter documenting their
necessity.
Some of the walks in this book are physically demand-ing and
most require a rea-sonable level of tness. Even if you’re tackling
the easy or easy-moderate walks, it pays to be relatively t, rather
than launch straight into them after months of fairly seden-tary
living. If you’re aiming for the demanding walks, tness is
essential.
Unless you’re a regular walker, start your get- t cam-paign at
least a month before your visit. Take a vigorous walk of about an
hour, two or three times per week, and gradually extend the
duration of your outings as the depar-ture date nears. If you plan
to carry a full backpack on any walk, carry a loaded pack on some
of your training jaunts.
e any m
» an(eg ibupro» bandages, gagauze rolls» DEET-containing
insrepellent for the skin» elasticized support bandag» iodine
tablets or water lter (for water puri cation)
» nonadhesive dressing» oral rehydration salts» paper stitches»
permethrin-containing insect spray for clothing,tents and bed nets»
pocket knife» scissors, safety pins, tweezers» sterile alcohol
wipes» steroid cream or cortisone (for allergic rashes)» sticking
plasters (Band-Aids, blister plasters)» sun block» sutures»
syringes and needles – ask your doctor for a note ex-plaining why
you have them» thermometer
Further ReadingInternational Travel HealthGuide by Stuart R Rose
M(Travel Medicine Inc) ionly traveler’s healtthat is updated
Medicineeering
Health & Safety
PAGE
52
PAGE
253
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-
Look out for these icons:
o Our author’s top recommendation
Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite
places are listed first
S A green or sustainable option F No payment required
BANFF NATIONAL PARK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54SIGHTS. . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57Banff Town . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . 57Around Banff Town . . . . . . .65Lake Louise & Around . .
. . . 67Icefields Parkway . . . . . . . . .68DRIVING . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . 69Around Banff . . . . . . . . . . . . .69Around
Lake Louise . . . . . . . 73DAY HIKES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
74Banff Town & Around . . . . . . 74Lake Louise & Around .
. . . . 81Icefields Parkway . . . . . . . . .86OVERNIGHT HIKES . .
. . . . . 90BIKING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93OTHER
ACTIVITIES . . . . . . . 96TOURS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
100SLEEPING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Banff . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . 101Lake Minnewanka . . . . . . . .106Bow Valley
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .106Lake Louise . . . . . . . . . . . . .
107Icefields Parkway . . . . . . . .108Backcountry . . . . . . . .
. . . .109EATING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109Banff Town . .
. . . . . . . . . . . .109Bow Valley Parkway . . . . . . 111Lake
Louise . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111Icefields Parkway . . . . . . .
. 111DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT . . . . . . . . . . 112SHOPPING .
. . . . . . . . . . . . .113Banff Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
113
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On the Road
See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this
book.
Lake Louise . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113INFORMATION . . . . . .
. . . . .113GETTING THERE & AWAY . .114GETTING AROUND . . . . .
. .115AROUND BANFF NATIONAL PARK . . . . . . . . . .115Canmore . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Kananaskis Country . . . . . 121Yoho
National Park . . . . . . 124Lake O’Hara . . . . . . . . . . . . .
128Mt Assiniboine Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . . 129Kootenay
National Park & Radium Hot Springs . . .130Golden . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . 133
JASPER NATIONAL PARK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137SIGHTS . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Icefields Parkway . . . . . . . .
142Jasper Town & Around . . . 145Maligne Lake Area . . . . . .
. 147North of Jasper Town . . . . 148DRIVING . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . 149DAY HIKES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151Icefields
Parkway . . . . . . . . 151Jasper Town & Around . . .
153Maligne Lake Area . . . . . . . 155North of Jasper Town . . . .
156OVERNIGHT HIKES . . . . . . 157BIKING . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . 160OTHER ACTIVITIES . . . . . . 162TOURS . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . 165SLEEPING . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
166Icefields Parkway . . . . . . . . 166
Jasper Town & Around . . . 167Maligne Lake Area . . . . . .
. 170North of Jasper Town . . . . 170EATING . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . .171Icefields Parkway . . . . . . . . 171Jasper Town &
Around . . . 171Maligne Lake Area . . . . . . . 172DRINKING &
ENTERTAINMENT . . . . . . . . .172SHOPPING . . . . . . . . . . . .
. 172INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . 173GETTING THERE & AWAY .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173GETTING AROUND . . . . . .
173AROUND JASPER NATIONAL PARK . . . . . . . . .174Mt Robson
Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Hamber
Provincial Park . . .175Willmore Wilderness Park . . 175
GLACIER NATIONAL PARK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176SIGHTS . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 179Going-to-the-Sun Road . . . 179South
of Going-to-the-Sun Road . . . . . . . . . . . 184North of
Going-to-the-Sun Road . . . . . . . . . . . 184DRIVING . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . 184DAY HIKES. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
186Going-to-the-Sun Road . . . 187South of Going-to-the-Sun Road .
. . . . . . . . . . 191North of Going-to-the-Sun Road . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . 191
OVERNIGHT HIKES . . . . . . 193BIKING . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . 196OTHER ACTIVITIES . . . . . . 197TOURS . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . 199SLEEPING . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
201Going-to-the-Sun Road . . .201South of Going-to-the-Sun Road . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . 202North of Going-to-the-Sun Road . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . 203EATING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
204Going-to-the-Sun Road . . 204South of Going-to-the-Sun Road . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . 204North of Going-to-the-Sun Road . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 205DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT . . . . .
. . 205SHOPPING . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205INFORMATION . . . . .
. . . . . 205GETTING AROUND . . . . . . 206AROUND GLACIER NATIONAL
PARK . . . . . . . . 206Waterton Lakes National Park . . . . . . .
. . . 206St Mary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220East Glacier . .
. . . . . . . . . . .222West Glacier . . . . . . . . . . .
.223Polebridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . .224Blackfeet Indian
Reservation . . . . . . . . . . . . .225Whitefish . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . .225Kalispell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227
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OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a
sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler
needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland
to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and
Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s
belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform,
educate and amuse.’
Oliver Berry Coordinating Author, Banff National Park Oliver has
trekked through many of the world’s mountain ranges, but he has
never found anywhere that compares to the Canadian Rockies. He has
hiked pretty much every trail in Banff and the sur-rounding
national parks over the years, so he jumped at the chance to do
them all again while writing this guidebook. He’s written regularly
for Lonely Planet on many guidebooks, including France, Great
Britain and The Lake District,
and also writes regularly for fi lm, music and travel
publications, including Lonely Planet Magazine. When he’s not out
on the road or up a mountain, he can probably be found on the
beaches of his home county in Cornwall, UK. You can see some of his
latest work at www.oliverberry.com.
Brendan Sainsbury Jasper National Park, Glacier National Park
UK-born Brendan once ran 100 miles across the Cascade Mountains in
an ultra-distance marathon, so researching the hikes for this book
seemed like a dream job. He currently lives near Vancouver, Canada,
with his wife and young son, but makes regular sorties for Lonely
Planet to Cuba, Italy, Spain and the US in order to research. He
co-authored the previous edition of this guide and also covered
Jasper and Banff National Parks in Lonely Planet’s current edition
of Canada. When not
writing, he likes playing piano and guitar, and visiting his
favorite cities – London, Havana and Granada in Spain.
Read more about Oliver at
lonelyplanet.com/members/oliverberry
Read more about Brendan at
lonelyplanet.com/members/brendansainsbury
OUR WRITERS
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Banff, Jasper & Glacier NP 3 - ContentsContents
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