Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/3587-Italy_travel_guide... · 2013-11-22 · ABBREVIATIONS ACT Australian Capital Territory NSW New South Wales NT Northern Territory
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ABBREVIATIONSACT Australian Capital TerritoryNSW New South WalesNT Northern TerritoryQld QueenslandSA South AustraliaTas TasmaniaVic VictoriaWA Western Australia
925
Index A Abbazia di Pomposa 463-4 Abbazia di San Galgano 544 Abbazia di SantrsquoAntimo 550 Abruzzo 619-29 622 Abruzzo Lazio e Molise National
Park 85 abseiling 800 866 AC Milan 276 Accademia Carrara 283 accommodation 871-5
Acquafredda di Maratea 740 Aeolian Islands 778-87 Agnone 632 Agrigento 86 818-22 819 agriturismo 21 22 579 872 Agropoli 693 Aieta 745 air pollution 84 air travel
tofrom Italy 890-3 within Italy 896
Alagna Valsesia 257 Alassio 217 Alba 238-9 Alban Hills see Castelli Romani Albanian influence 743 Albanian villages 633 741-2 Albenga 216-17 Alberobello 713-14 albino donkeys 860 Alessi 272 Alghero 854-7 855 Aliano 739 Alicudi 786-7 Alighieri Dante 67
Alpe di Fanes 339-41 Alpe di Siusi 338 Alta Badia 339 340 Alta Murgia National Park 85 alte vie hiking trails 316 Altipiano della Paganella 322-4 Alto Adige 313-16 329-42 318-19 Alto Lario 305 Altopiano del Golgo 869-70 Amalfi 685-7 686 Amalfi Coast 87 681-91 12 Ampezzo 424 amusement parks
Aquafagraven 471 Aquaparadise 309 CanevaWorld 309 Delfinario Rimini 471 Fiabilandia 471 Gardaland 309 Italia in Miniatura 471 Movieland 309
Anacapri 663-4 664 Ancona 601-5 602 Andalo 322 animals 81-3 see also individual
species Antey-St-Andreacute 255 Antony Mark 37 Aosta 247-51 248 aperitivi 76 166 274 Apennines 457 Appennino Lucano 739-40 Appennino Lucano ndash Val drsquoAgri
National Park 85 Appennino Tosco-Emiliano National
Park 85 Appian Way 136-9 Apuane Alps 519-21 Aquafagraven 471 aquariums 200 331 648 Aquileia 402 415-16 Ara Pacis 124 Arbatax 870 Arborio 245 Arch of Septimus Severus 115 142 archaeological sites
865 867 868 Ostia Antica 179 Paestum 691-2 11 Perugia 569 Pietrabbondante 632 Pompeii 674-5 Pozzuoli 657-8 Rimini 470 Saepinum 630-1 Selinunte 822 Sirmione 309 Spoleto 592 Syracuse 809-11 Tempio di Antas 846 Terme di Caracalla 130 Tharros 851 tours 142-3 Val di Magra 214 Valley of the Temples 820 Venosa 739 Ventimiglia 219-20 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Romana del Casale 818
architecture 157-64 terms 916
Arcipelago di La Maddalena National Park 85 861-2
Arcipelago Toscano National Park 85 Arco 311 Arco di Settimio Severo 115 142 area codes see inside front cover Arena di Verona 70 7 Arezzo 555-8 556 Argegno 304 Armani Giorgio 277
IND
EX copy Lonely Planet
IN
DEX
926 I N D E X ( A - B )
Arona 298 Arquagrave Petrarca 386 art 49-59
ancient 49-50 Arte Povera 59 baroque 55-7 Byzantine 50 classical 49-50 contemporary 272 courses 878 Futurism 58 Gothic style 51-2 mannerism 55 Middle Ages 50-1 51-2 museums see museums amp
galleries Renaissance 53-5 56 57 Sienese school 52
art galleries see museums amp galleries Arte Povera 59 arts 65-71
Arzachena 862-3 Ascoli Piceno 613-16 614 Asinara National Park 85 Asolo 392 Aspromonte 85 750-1 Assisi 580-6 581 Asti 243-4 audiences with the pope 132 Auditorium Parco della Musica 171-2 Augustus 38 90 Autodromo Nazionale Monza 276 Avellino 660
B BampBs 872 Badia di Passignano 534 Baia 658-9 ballooning 239 balsamic vinegar 458 Barbaresco 241-2 Barga 519
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Bari 708-12 709 Barletta 707-8 Barolo 240-1 Bartali Gino 72 Barumini 850-1 Basilica di San Francesco (Assisi) 580-3 Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano
129 Basilica di San Giulio 294 Basilica di San Marco (Rome) 118 Basilica di San Marco ( Venice)
355-6 9 Basilica di San Paolo Fuori-le-Mura 86 Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli 126-7 Basilica di San Vitale 465 Basilica di Santa Caterina
drsquoAlessandria 726 Basilica di Santa Cecilia in Trastevere
131 Basilica di Santa Croce (Florence)
493-4 160 Basilica di Santa Croce (Lecce) 723 Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
127-8 Basilica Palladiana 388 Basilicata 695 697 731-42 732 Bassano del Grappa 392 Baunei 869-70 Baveno 298 Bay of Naples 660-70 beaches
Agropoli 693 Alghero 854 857 Arcipelago di La Maddalena 861 Cagliari 839-41 Cala Gonone 868 Capo Vaticano 754 Cefalugrave 776 Costa del Sud 845 Costa Rei 844 Costa Verde 848 Erchie 689 Finale Ligure 216 Golfo Aranci 864 Grado 416 Iglesiente Coast 846 799 Ischia 668 Lido 366 Lignano 417 Lipari 780 Marina del Cantone 680 Marina di Sorso 859 Mondello 773 Noli 216 North Oristano Coast 852
Otranto 727 Palau 861 Panarea 784 Pesaro 610 Pescara 627 Platamona 859 Porto Cervo 862 Porto Conte 857 Positano 682 Praia a Mare 745 Praiano 684 Procida 669 Rimini 470-1 Salina 783 San Domino 704 Santa Teresa di Gallura 860-1 SantrsquoAntioco 847 Sardinia 844 Scilla 754 Sinis Peninsula 852 Stintino 860 Stromboli 785 Syracuse 811 Taormina 791-2 Taranto 730 Tropea 754 Ustica 774 Vieste 701 Villasimius 844 Vulcano 782
bears 81-2 323 626 bella figura la 61-2 Bellagio 302-4 Bellini Giovanni 57 bell-making 632 Belluno 399-400 Benevento 659-60 Bergamo 281-5 282 Berlusconi Silvio 18 19 46 47-8
62 63 65 Bernalda 733 Bernini Gianlorenzo 57 125 126 bicycle hire 897 bicycle travel see cycling Biennale di Venezia 369 birdwatching 210
Comacchio 464 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Po Delta 463 Riomaggiore 210 Sabaudia 190
canoeing continued Dorgali 867 Oliena 866 Palau 861 Parco Regionale della Maremma
553 Stintino 860 Varallo 257
Canolo 750 Canova Antonio 58 125 canyoning
Courmayeur 252 Val di Sole 326
capers 783 Capitoline Hill 116-18 Capitoline Museums 50 117 Capo Caccia 857 Capo Carbonara 844 Capo Ferrato 844 Capo Malfatano 845 Capo Milazzo 778 Capo Vaticano 754 Capoliveri 533 Cappella degli Scrovegni 383-5 Cappella di Monte Siepi 544 Cappella Palatina 766 Capella Sistina 135-6 Caprai 704 Capri 660-7 661 Capri Town 662-3 663 car travel
insurance 898 tofrom Italy 893 894 within Italy 897-9
Caracci Annibale 55-6 57 Caravaggio Michelangelo Merisi da
marble 520 Casa delle Vestali (House of the Vestal
Virgins) 115 Casa di Giulietta (Julietrsquos House) 393 Casa Natale di Giuseppe Verdi 457 Casale Monferrato 244 Cascata del Varone 311 Caserta 659
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Casinograve di Venezia 377 Castel del Monte 708 Castel Gandolfo 188 Castel Nuovo 647 Castel SantrsquoAngelo 136 Castel SantrsquoElmo 646-7 Castel Savoia 256 Castel Tirolo 334 Castel Trauttmansdorff 334 Castelbuono 775 CastellrsquoArquato 459 Castelli Romani 187-9 Castellina 535-6 Castello 363-5 Castello Bardi 457 Castello del Buonconsiglio 317 Castello di Duino 412 Castello di Feacutenis 251 Castello di Miramare 411-12 Castello di Montefioralle 534 Castello di Rivoli 226-7 Castello di Sainte-Pierre 251 Castello di San Giusto 404 Castello di Sarre 251 Castello di Verrazzano 534 Castello di Verregraves 251 Castello drsquoIssogne 251 Castello Estense 460-1 Castello Sforzesco amp Parco Sempione
Catacombe dei Cappuccini 767 Catacombe di San Gennaro 648-9 Catacombs of San Callisto 137 Catacombs of San Domitilla 137 Catacombs of San Sebastiano 137
Catania 793-806 794 Catanzaro 750 cathedrals
Amalfi 685 Ancona 603 Aosta 248-9 Arezzo 555-6 Bari 710 Cagliari 838 Catania 795 Cefalugrave 776 Como 299-301
Cavalese 327 Cavallini Pietro 56 Cave di Colonnata 520 Cave di Fantiscritti 520 Cave di Torano 520 Cavedago 322 caves
Filicudi 786 Grotta Azzurra 664 Grotta de Su Mannau 846 Grotta del Bue Marino 868 Grotta del Genoves 830
IND
EX I N D E X ( C ) 929
Grotta dello Smeraldo 686 Grotta di Nettuno 857 Grotta di San Giovanni 846 Grotta Gigante 413 Grotte dellrsquoAngelo Pertosa 694 Grotte di Castelcivita 694 Grotte di Castellana 713 Grotte di Frasassi 611 Orvieto 597 Polignano a Mare 713 San Domino 704
Cavour Count Camillo Benso di 44 Cefalugrave 776-7 Celio 129-30 cell phones 885 ceramics 576 Cernobbio 304 Certosa di Pavia 279-80 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Certosa di San Martino 646 Cerveteri 182-3 Champoluc 256 chariot races 633 cheese tasting 249 Cherasco 239-40 Chia 845 Chianti 533-6 Chiesa del Gesugrave 119 Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore 365 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli
(Rome) 125 Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie 265 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Aracoeli 117 Chieti 628-9 children travel with 875-6
amusement parks 309 471 aquariums 200 331 648 Florence 497-8 health 905 language 911 Rome 139 Venice 369 zoos 297 626
Chirico Giorgio de 58 chocolate 231 569-70 Christ Stopped at Eboli 731 734 739 Christian Democrats 46 Christianity 39-41 churches see also cathedrals
Basilica di San Clemente 129-30 Basilica di San Francesco (Assisi)
580-3 Basilica di San Frediano 517 Basilica di San Giovanni in
Laterano 129
Basilica di San Giulio 294 Basilica di San Giusto 404 Basilica di San Lorenzo 492 Basilica di San Marco (Rome) 118 Basilica di San Marco ( Venice)
355-6 9 Basilica di San Nicola 710 Basilica di San Petronio 428 Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli
126-7 Basilica di San Saturnino 839 Basilica di San Vitale 465 Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore 395 Basilica di Santa Caterina
drsquoAlessandria 726 Basilica di Santa Cecilia in
Trastevere 131 Basilica di Santa Croce (Florence)
493-4 160 Basilica di Santa Croce (Lecce) 723 Basilica di Santa Maria del Carmine
497 Basilica di Santa Maria in
Trastevere 130 Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
127-8 Basilica di Santa Maria Novella 491 Basilica di SantrsquoAbbondio 301 Basilica di SantrsquoAndrea 291 Basilica di SantrsquoAntonio 385-6 Basilica di SantrsquoApollinare in
Classe 466 Basilica di SantrsquoApollinare Nuovo
466 Basilica di Santo Spirito 497 Basilica di Superga 228 Chiesa degli Eremitani 385 Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis 136 Chiesa del Gesugrave 119 Chiesa della Madonna dellrsquoOrto
363 Chiesa della Santa Trigravenita 491 Chiesa di Piedigrotta 755 Chiesa di San Francesco (Arezzo)
555 Chiesa di San Francesco
(Sorrento) 677 Chiesa di San Francesco della
Vigna 364 Chiesa di San Francesco di Paola
647 Chiesa di San Giorgio 815 Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
365 Chiesa di San Michele in Foro 516
Chiesa di San Miniato al Monte 496
Chiesa di San Polo 361 Chiesa di San Zaccaria 364-5 Chiesa di Santa Corona 390 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli
(Rome) 125 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli
(Venice) 363 Chiesa di Santa Maria del Giglio
358 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute
359 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Spina
526 Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie
265 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Aracoeli
117 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin
122 Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra
Minerva 119 Chiesa di SantrsquoAnastasia 395 Chiesa di Santo Stefano 358 Chiesa di SantrsquoOrso 249 Chiesa e Battistero dei SS Giovanni
e Reparata 516 Chiesa Russa Ortodossia 217 Convent of the Minor Capuchin
Friars 703 Duomo di San Giovanni (Turin) 226 Gesuati 360 Madonna delle Virtugrave and San
Nicola del Greci 735 San Gimignano Basilica 544 Santa Caterina del Sasso 298 Santuario dellrsquoAnnunziata 826 Santuario di Nostra Signora di
Bonaria 839 Santuario di San Francesco di
Paola 745 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 Zanipolo 363-4
cicheti 373 cicloturismo (bicycle tourism) 433 Cilento e Vallo di Diano National Park
85 693-4 cinema 23 68-9 127 637 759 cinghiale 563 Cinque Terre 208-11 Cinque Terre National Park 85 Circeo National Park 82 85 Circo di Massenzio 137-8 Circo Massimo 114
IND
EX
IN
DEX
930 I N D E X ( C - D )
Cisternino 715 Civica Galleria drsquoArte Moderna 270-1 Cividale del Friuli 422 Civita 743 Civitavecchia 184 Civitella Alfedena 626 classical music 70 Claudius 38 climate 20 876-7 climate change 892 climbing 804
Altipiano della Paganella 322-3 Courmayeur 252-3 Domusnovas 846 Milky Way 234 Oliena 866 Sardinia 838 selvaggio blu 800 Sinis Peninsula 852 vie ferrate 341
Clooney George 304 Cocullo 624 Coddu Ecchju 863 coffee 76 410 439 Cogne 254 Colli Albani see Castelli Romani Colli Euganei 386 Colonna di Traiano ( Trajanrsquos Column)
49 Colosseum 112 Columbus Christopher 200 Comacchio 464 comics 66 communism 47 Como 299-302 300 Como Lake see Lago di Como Condofuri 751 Conegliano 398-9 confetti 623 Constantine I 39 consulates 879-80 contemporary art 272 Convent of the Minor Capuchin
Friars 703 cooking see food Coppola Francis Ford 733 Corniglia 209-10 Corricella 669 Cortina drsquoAmpezzo 400 Cortona 558-9 Corvara 339 340
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Cosenza 745-8 746 Costa del Sud 845 Costa Rei 844 Costa Smeralda 862-3 Costa Verde 848 Costiera Cilentana 692-3 costs 20-1 see also inside front
language 909-11 emigration 63 Emilia-Romagna 425-73 429 emperors 36-9 endangered species 82-8 Enna 817-18 Ente Lirico Arena di Verona 70 7 environmental issues 84-8 Ercolano 670-2 Erice 828-9 Esquilino (Esquiline) 126-9 Estate Romana 144 172 Este 386 Etruscan history 33-4 Etruscan sites 182-3 553-4 Euganean Hills 386 Eugubian Tablets 587 EUR 138-9 138 Eurochocolate 570 events 25-6 exchange rates see inside front cover
F Faenza 468 Fai della Paganella 322 farmstays 579 Farnese collection 646
Farro 563 fascism 44-6 fashion 173 272 277
courses 497 Fattoria di Celle 514 Favignana 830-1 Fellini Federico 68-9 127 Ferdinando I 494-5 Ferrara 459-63 460 Ferrari 449 ferries
Aeolian Islands 778-9 Bari 711-12 Brindisi 720-1 Elba 531 Lago Maggiore Express 295 Livorno 530 Messina 788-9 Sardinia 184 837 Sicily 757-9 763 tofrom Italy 896 within Italy 897
Festa del Redentore 26 Festa di San Marco 369 Festival dei Due Mondi 592 festivals 25-6 see also individual cities
Biennale di Venezia 369 Carnevale 25 369 chariot races 633 chilli-eating competition 745 Estate Romana 144 172 Eurochocolate 570 Festa del Redentore 26 Festa di San Marco 369 Festa di San Nicola 710 Festival dei Due Mondi 592 food 77-8 International Festival of Undershy
water Activities 774 Le Feste di Pasqua 730 Processione dei Serpari 624 Quintana 615 Ravenna Festival 467 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Sagra del Pesce 205 Salone Internazionale del Gusto
228 Settimana Santa 25 678 Strawberry Festival 336 Turin Book Fair 228 Umbria Jazz 570 Venice International Film
Festival 26 369 Fiabilandia 471 Fiesole 510-12
IND
EX
IN
DEX
932 I N D E X ( F - G )
Filicudi 786-7 film 23 68-9 127 637 759
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Fiumicello 740 Florence 476-510 480-1 484-5 488
accommodation 498-501 cafes 506 children travel with 497-8 entertainment 507-8 festivals 498 food 501-5 gelaterie 505 history 476 itineraries 479 shopping 508-9 sights 480-97 tourist information 479-80 tours 498 travel tofrom 509 travel within 510
Foci del Po 463 Foggia 705 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 fontina 250 food 73-80 880
football 71-2 233 AC Milan 276 corruption 233 Inter Milan 276 Juventus 233 San Siro stadium 276 Stadio Olimpico (Rome) 172 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232
Foresta Umbra 698 Foreste Casentinesi Monte Falterona e
Campigna National Park 85 Formula One 276 Forni di Sopra 424 Fortuny Tessuti Artistici 365 Forza Italia 48 Fossa delle Felci 783 Fossa di Vulcano 781-2 Frarsquo Angelico 52 57 492 Francesca Piero della 57 558 Franciacorta 307 Franciscan sites 583-4 Franco-Austrian War 44 Frascati 188 Frederick I (Barbarossa) Emperor 41-2 Frederick II 705 706 Friuli Venezia Giulia 401-24 404 Fuksas Massimiliano 139 funiculars see cable cars Funtanamare 846 Futurism 58
G Gaius (Caligula) 37 38 Galatina 726 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna e
358-9 galleries see museums amp galleries Gallipoli 728-9 7 Gambarie 751 garbage crisis 48 84 gardens see parks amp gardens Garfagnana the 519 Gargagnano 398 Gargano National Park 85 696-8 Garibaldi Giuseppe 44 823 861
gay travellers 880 Bologna 434 Milan 276 Rome 169
gelato 151 505 gelato-making 678 Gennargentu e Golfo di Orosei
Gentileschi Artemesia 57 490 geography 81 geology 81 Gerace 750 Ghiberti Lorenzo 57 Ghirlandaio Domenico 56 Gianicolo 131 Giara di Gesturi 851 Giardino di Bardini 496 Giardino di Boboli 496 Giotto 51 56 383-5 Giudecca 365 Giulie Alps 423 gladiator school 142 Gola Su Gorruppu 867-8 Golden Quad 277 Gole dellrsquoAlcagraventara 792 golf 234 Golfo Aranci 864 Golfo di Castellammare 829-30 Golfo di Orosei 868-9 Gomorra 67 68 gondolas 367-8 Gorizia 413-14 Gorruppu Gorge see Gola Su
Gorruppu Grado 416 graffiti 866 Gran Paradiso National Park 85
254-5 804 Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga
National Park 85 620 Grand Canal 350-5 grappa 77 Gravedona 305 Gressoney-La-Triniteacute 256 Gressoney-St-Jean 256
I N D E X ( G - I ) 933
Greve in Chianti 534-5 Grotta Azzurra 664 Grotta de Su Mannau 846 Grotta del Bue Marino 868 Grotta del Genoves 830 Grotta dello Smeraldo 686 Grotta di San Giovanni 846 Grotta Gigante 413 Grottaferrata 188 Grotte di Castellana 713 Grotte di Frasassi 611 Gruppo del Sella 329 Gubbio 587-90 588 Guggenheim Peggy 359
H Hadrian 38 39 119 181 hammam 767 hang-gliding
Castelluccio 594 Val Badia 340
haute couture 277 hay baths 340 health 903-5 heli-skiing
Courmayeur 252 Milky Way 234
Hemingway Ernest 295 Herculaneum 86 670-2 671 hiking
Alicudi 786 Alpe di Siusi 338 alte vie 316 Amalfi Coast 681 Apuane Alps 520 Aosta 249 Apennines 457 Baunei 869 Cala Gonone 868 Capri 665 Courmayeur 252-3 Dolomites 314-16 Dorgali 867 Elba 531 Gola Su Gorruppu 867-8 itinerary 32 Lipari 780 Madonna di Campiglio 322
325 Maritime Alps 237 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Milky Way 234 Mt Etna 807 Oliena 866 Pantelleria 831
Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie 775-6
Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e Molise 626 627
Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano 693
Parco Nazionale della Majella 624 Parco Regionale della Maremma
297 Isola Bella (Sicily) 792 Isola Caprera 861-2 Isola della Maddalena 861 Isola Madre 297 Isola Maggiore 577 Isola Polvese 577 Isola San Giulio 294 Isola San Pietro 847-8
IND
EX
934 I N D E X ( I - M )
Isola Superiore (Pescatori) 298
Isole Pelagie 822 Isole Pontine 190-1 Isole Tremiti 704-5 Italia in Miniatura 471 itineraries 27-32
J Janiculum 131 jet lag 904 jewellery design 497 Jewish culture 553 809 Jewish ghetto (Rome) 121-3 Jewish history 362-3 Joyce James 407 Julietrsquos House 393
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Julius Caesar 36-7 90 Juventus 233
K kayaking
Courmayeur 252 Elba 531 533 Val di Sole 326 Varallo 257
kite-surfing Palau 861 Sinis Peninsula 852
L la bella figura 61-2 La Fenice 70 La Garfagnana see Garfagnana the La Magdeleine 255 La Morra 240-1 La Rotonda 390-1 La Scala 264 La Sila 748-9 La Spezia 211-13 212 La vita egrave bella 555 Ladin 337 339 Laghetto di Fanghi 782 Laghi di Fusine 423-4 Lago di Albano 188 Lago di Como 299-306 9 Lago di Garda 307-12 803 Lago di Lesina 701 Lago di Lugano 305 Lago di Nemi 188 Lago di Piano 305 Lago di Varano 701 Lago drsquoIseo 306-7 Lago drsquoOrta 294-5 Lago Lario see Lago di Como Lago Maggiore 295-9 Lago Omedeo Circuit 852-3 Lago Trasimeno 576-8 Laguna di Marano 416 Lampedusa Giuseppe Tomasi di 66 Langhirano 457 language 906-11
Levanzo 830-1 Levi Carlo 67 731 734 739-40 Levi Primo 66 Lido the 366 Lignano 417 Liguria 192-220 196 limoncello 77 Lingotto Fiere 227 Lipari 779-81 Lippi Filippino 56 Lippi Filippo 52 57 495 literature 22-4 65-7 Livorno 528-30 529 Locorotondo 714-15 Lombardy 259-312 260 Lorenzetti brothers 52 56 Loreto 606 Lorica 748 Lovere 307 Lucanian Apennines see Appennino
Lucano Lucca 514-19 515 9 Lucera 705-6
M Macerata 611-13 Machiavelli 67 Madonna di Campiglio 322-6 324 Mafia 48 757 761 Majella National Park 85 624-5 majolica ceramics 576 Malcesine 310 Malvasia wine 781 783 Mamoiada 866 mamuthones 866 Manarola 210 Mani Pulite 48 Manotra see Mantua Mantegna Andrea 53 57 Mantero 303
IND
EX
I N D E X ( M ) 935
Mantua 289-93 290 maps 882 Maranello 449-50 Marano Lagunare 416 Maratea 740-1 marble quarries 520 Marcialonga 328 Marciana Marina 533 Marcus Aurelius 39 Marettimo 830-1 Marina del Cantone 680-1 Marina di Camerota 693 Marina di Carrara 520 Marina di Furore 685 Marina di Massa 520 Marina di Sorso 859 Marinetti Filippo Tommaso 58 Maritime Alps 237 Mark Antony (Marcus Antonius) 37 markets
Ballarograve 766 11 Catania 795 Genoa 203 La Pescheria 795 Mercato del Capo 766 Mercato della Vucciria 766
Marsala 823-4 Martello 336-7 Martina Franca 715-17 Martini Simone 52 56 Masaccio 53 57 497 mask making 367 masseria (manor farm) 716 Masua 846 Matera 733-8 12 mattanza 831 847 Matterhorn 255 Mausoleo di Cecilia Metell 138 Maximilian 412 measures 872 see also inside front
cover medical services 904 see also
health Medici family 43 476 492 494-5 Meier Richard 124 Menaggio 305 Merano 333-5 Mercato di Ballarograve 766 11 Messina 787-9 Messina Bridge project 87 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Metaponto 733 metric conversions see inside front
Milan 260-79 266-9 accommodation 271-3 drinking 274-5 entertainment 275-6 festivals 271 food 273-4 gay amp lesbian travellers 276 shopping 277 sights 263-71 tourist information 263 tours 271 travel tofrom 277-8 travel within 278-9
Milazzo 777-8 Milky Way 234-5 Mille Miglia 449 Miramare 411-12 Mission Impossible III 659 Mithraism 130 mobile phones 885 Modena 446-9 447 Modena Cento Ore 449 Modica 815-16 Moena 328 Molise 619 621 625 629-33 630 Moltrasio 304 Molveno 322 323 Mona Lisa 54 Monastery of St Benedict 189 Moncalvo 244 Mondello 773 money 20-1 882-3 see also inside
front cover discount cards Monferrato 244-5 Monreale 773-4 Monselice 386 Montagnana 386 Montalcino 550-1 Monte Bondone 319 Monte Cassino 189 Monte Isola 307 Monte Ortobene 865 Monte Pellegrino 773 Monte Rocchetta 311 Monte Rosa 256 Monte SantrsquoAngelo 702-4 Monte Ursino 216 Montepulciano 551-2 Monterosso 209 Monti del Matese 631 Monti Ferru 852 Monti Sibillini 85 594-5 616-17
Aosta 249 Cala Gonone 868 Courmayeur 252-3 Milky Way 234 Stresa 296 tours 868 Val Badia 340
mountain huts 874 mountaineering 257
Messner Reinhold 331 332 Mozia 825 Mt Etna 806-8 800 Mt Vesuvius 672-3 mud baths 782 831 Muggia 402 412-13 multiculturalism 62-3 Mundi Stupor 41 Munthe Axel 663 Murano 366-7 Murat Joachim 755 Murgia plateau 713-18 737 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto Adige
331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano 779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale 645 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia
751 Museo Nazionale di San Matteo 525 Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo
Massimo alle Terme 128-9 Museum of Glass 366 museums amp galleries
270-1 Galleria drsquoArte Moderna 361 Galleria dellrsquoAccademia (Florshy
ence) 493 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Antica
(Rome) 123 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna
e Contemporanea (Rome) 126
IND
EX
936 I N D E X ( M - N )
museums amp galleries continued Gallerie dellrsquoAccademia ( Venice)
358-9 Gallerie di Palazzo Leoni Montanshy
ari 390 Keats-Shelley Memorial House 124 MAAM (Museo a Cielo Aperto
dellrsquoArchitettura Moderna) 245 MAXXI art gallery 164 164 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Musei di Strada Nuova 197-8 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto
Adige 331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano
779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Naples) 645-6 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Sardinia) 838 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
dellrsquoUmbria 569 Museo Archeologico Paolo Orsi 811 Museo Civico (Siena) 538 Museo Civico (Vicenza)390 Museo Civico Archeologico
(Bologna) 430 Museo Claudio Faina e Civico 597 Museo Correr 357 Museo del Bargello 490 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo della Fondazione Querini
Stampalia 364 Museo della Scultura
Contemporanea 735-6 Museo della Seta 301 Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni
Sarde 865 Museo dellrsquoAra Pacis 124 158 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo dellrsquoOpera Metropolitana
539 Museo di Capodimonte 648 Museo di Roma 121 Museo di San Marco (Florence)
492 Museo Ebraico 363 Museo Ebraico di Roma 122 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Etrusco Guarnacci 548 Museo Fortuny 358
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Museo Nazionale Archeologico ( Taranto) 730
Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia 751
Museo Nazionale Romano Crypta Balbi 120
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Altemps 120-1
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo alle Terme 128-9
Museo Nazionale Romano Terme di Diocleziano 128
Museo Palatino 113 Museo Walser 256 Museum of Glass 366 Padiglione drsquoArte Contemporanea
accommodation 570-1 courses 570 drinking 572 festivals 570 food 571-2 history 565 language courses 570 shopping 573 sights 568-70 tourist information 567 travel tofrom 573-4 travel within 574-5
Perugia Universitagrave per Stranieri 570 Perugina chocolate factory 569-70 Perugino 56 Pesaro 609-11 Pescara 627-8 Pescasseroli 625 626 Peschici 698-700 Pescocostanzo 624-5 Petralia Soprana 775 Petralia Sottana 775 Petrarch 67 386 Phoenician ruins 825 847 phone cards 885 Piacenza 457-9 Piano Renzo 171-2 Piano Battaglia 775 Piazza Barberini 123-4 Piazza dei Miracoli 86 523-5 Piazza del Popolo 124-8 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Piazza della Repubblica 128-32 Piazza di Spagna 124 Piazza Navona 120 Piazza San Marco 355-7 Piazza San Pietro 132 Piazza Venezia 118-19 Piccione 563 Piedmont 192 194 220-45 221 Pienza 551 Pietagrave 133 Pietra di Bismantova 452 Pietrabbondante 632 Pietrapertosa 740 Pietrasanta 521 Pigra 304
Pila 249 pilgrimage 702-3 Pinacoteca di Brera 270 Pinzolo 324-6 Piombi 356 Pirandello Luigi 67 Pisa 521-8 522 Pisano Giovanni 56 539 Pisano Nicola 51 56 524 Pisciotta 693 Pistoia 512-14 513 Pitigliano 553-4 Pitti family 495-6 Pizzo 755 Plan de Corones 341 planning 20-4 see also itineraries
discount cards plants 83-4 Platamona 859 Plateau Rosa 255-6 256 Po Delta 463-4 poetry 67 Policoro 733 Polignano a Mare 712-13 politics 18-9 64-5 Pollara 783 Parco Nazionale del Pollino
(Basilicata) 85 741-2 Parco Nazionale del Pollino (Calabria)
85 743-5 pollution 84 718 878 Pompeii 86 673-6 Ponte di Calatrava 350 Ponza 190-1 pop music 70-1 popes 39-41 90 132 Popolo della Libertagrave 48 population 62-4 Pordenone 417 Porlezza 305 Porto Cervo 862 Porto Conte 857 Porto Ferro 857 Porto Teulada 845 Porto Torres 860 Porto Venere 213-14 Portocannone 633 Portoferraio 531-3 Portofino 206 Positano 682-4 683 Possagno 392 postal services 883-4 Potenza 739 Pozzuoli 657-8 Praia a Mare 745
I N D E X ( P - S ) 939
Praiano 684-5 Processione dei Serpari 624 Procida 669-72 Promontorio del Gargano 696-704 prosciutto 422-3 458 Prosecco 398-9 Provenzano Bernardo 761 public transport 900 Puglia 696-731 699 Pula 844-5 Punta della Dogana 359-60 Punta Helbronner 253 puppet shows 809 Pythagoras 733
Q Quadrilatero drsquoOro 277 Quintana 615
R Radda in Chianti 536 radio 872 rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
Ragusa 816-17 rail passes 895 Rapallo 207-8 Raphael 56 126 134 135 490 495 Ravello 687-8 Ravenna 464-8 465 Ravenna Festival 467 Red Brigades 47 Refounded Communist Party 47 Regata Storica 369 Reggio di Calabria 751-3 752 Reggio Emilia 450-2 451 religion 64 Remus 34 Renaissance art 53-5 56 57 Repubblica di San Marino 473 responsible travel 21-2
resources 22 Ribera Giuseppe de 57 Rimini 468-73 469 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Riola Sardo 852 Riomaggiore 210 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822 Riva 311 Riva del Garda 311 Rivello 740-1 Riviera di Levante 205-14
Riviera di Ponente 215-20 road distance chart 899 Robbia Andrea della 57 Rocca Meli Lupi 456 Rocca Sanvitale 456 rock carvings 830 rock-climbing see climbing Roghudi 751 Roman Baths of Caracalla 70 Roman Empire 34-6 40 35 Roman Forum 114 Rome 89-191 95-110
accommodation 144-50 children travel with 139 clubbing 168-71 cooking 140-2 courses 140-2 discount cards 111 drinking 165-8 entertainment 171-2 festivals 143-4 food 150-65 gay amp lesbian travellers 169 history 90 shopping 172-4 sights 112-39 tourist information 94-111 travel tofrom 174-5 travel within 175-9 walking tours 140 143 141
S Sabaudia 190 Sabbioneta 293 Sacile 402 417-18 Saepinum 630-1 sailing 207 812 861 saints 915 see also individual saints Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci (Chamber
of the Council of 10) 356 salami 594 Salentine Peninsula see Penisola
Salentina Salerno 689-92 689 Salina 783-4 Saline di Trapani 824-5 Salograve 309 Saluzzo 236-8 San Benedetto Po 293 San Carlo Borromeo 298
San Costantino Albanese 741-2 San Daniele del Friuli 402 422-3 San Domino 704 San Francesco di Paola 745 San Fruttuoso 205-6 San Gimignano 544-7 545 San Giorgio 398 San Giorgio Maggiore 365-6 San Giovanni 129-30 San Giovanni in Fiore 748 San Giovanni Rotondo 703 San Marino 473-4 473 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 San Martino in Pensilis 633 San Michele 366 San Nicola 704 San Pantaleo 824 862-3 San Paolo Albanese 741-2 San Pietro in Cariano 397 San Polo 360-1 San Remo 217-19 218 San Siro stadium 276 San Terenzo 214 Sansepolcro 558 Santa Caterina di Pittinuri 852 Santa Caterina di Siena 540 Santa Cecilia 131 Santa Cristina 337-8 Santa Croce 360-1 Santa Margherita 206-7 Santa Maria di Leuca 728 Santa Maria Navarrese 870 Santa Severina 749 Santa Teresa di Gallura 860-1 SantrsquoAgata sui due Golfi 680 SantrsquoAmbrogio di Valpolicella 398 SantrsquoAntioco 847-8 SantrsquoArcangelo 742 Santo Stefano drsquoAveto 208 Santuario della Madonna del Terzito
783 Santuario di San Michele 703 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri 851 Sardinia 184 833-70 834 Sarnano 618 Sarnico 306 Sarto Andrea del 56 Sarzana 214 Sassari 857-9 858 sassi 733 735-6 737 Sauris di Sopra 424 Saviano Roberto 67 68 Savona 215-16 Savonarola Girolamo 42 Scala Santa 129
Signorelli Luca 56 Sila National Park 85 silk 299 303 Sinis Peninsula 851-2 Sirmione 307 308-9 Sistine Chapel 135-6 skiing see also cross-country skiing
Abruzzo 625 Alta Badia 339 340 Aosta 249
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Bormio 336 Breuil-Cervinia 255-6 Camigliatello Silano 748 Campitello Matese 625 631 Campo di Giove 625 Campo Felice 625 Campo Imperatore 625 Cermis ski area 327 Champoluc 256 Cogne 254 Courmayeur 252 Dolomites 314 798 itinerary 32 Lecco 306 Lorica 748 Madonna di Campiglio 322 324-5 Merano 334-5 Milky Way 234 Molise 625 Ovindoli 625 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Passo della Stelvio 336 Pescasseroli 625 Pescocostanzo 625 Piano Battaglia 775 Plan de Corones 341 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 Sella Ronda 329 Stresa 296 Tarvisio 423 Val di Fassa 328 Val di Solda 336 Val Gardena 337 Valle drsquoAosta 247 Valtournenche 256
Spello 586-7 Sperlonga 190 Spilimbergo 418 Spoleto 590-3 591 Spoleto Festival see Festival dei Due
Mondi Spormaggiore 322 sport 71-2 squares see piazza St Benedict 189 St Catherine of Siena 119 St Francis of Assisi 580 582 583 584 St Michael the Archangel 702-3 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 St Peterrsquos Square 132 St Ubaldo 588 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232 Star Wars 659 Steinbeck John 682 Stelvio National Park 85 335-7 Stintino 860 stone towers 851 Strada del Vino Costa degli Etruschi 531 Stradivari Antonio 289 Strait of Messina bridge 789 strawberries 336 Strawberry Festival 336 Stresa 295-7 296 Stromboli 785-6 Studi di Scultura Carlo Nicoli 520 Stupor Mundi see Frederick I
tickets 276 Teatro Greco 791 Teatro La Fenice 357 378 Teatro Olimpico 390 Teatro Rossini 610-11 Teatro San Carlo 70 647 telephone services 884-5 television 62 Tellaro 214 Tempietto 131 163 Tempio di Antas 846 Tempio Malatestiano 470 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Caracalla 130 Terme di Diocleziano 128 Termini 126-9 Termoli 632-3 Terranova di Pollino 742 Tharros 851 The Last Supper 86 265 theatre 71 theft 878 theme parks 471 Theodosius I the Great 39 thermal springs
Colli Eugane 386 Preacute-St-Didier 253 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Rabbi 327 Terme di Saturnia 553 Terme Merano 334
Thomes 867 Tiberius 38 time 885 910 Tintoretto 57 367 tipping 883 Tirolo 335 Tiscali 868 Titian 57 118 Tivoli 181-2 Tizzano Val Parma 457 Todi 578-80 Tolmezzo 424 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes 867 Tomba di Giulietta (Julietrsquos Tomb) 393 Tommaso Filippo 58 Torbole 310-11
Torcello 367 Torgiano 575-6 Torino see Turin Torre Annunziata 86 Torre Branca 265 Torre Civica 237 Torre drsquoArnolfo 486 Torre degli Asinelli 431 Torre del Porticciolo 857 Torre delle Milizie 116 Torre dellrsquoElefante 838 Torre dellrsquoOrologio 357 Torre di Mariano II 849 Torre di San Pancrazio 838 Torre Pendente 523 161 Torre Porta a Terra 854 Torre Troyana o DellrsquoOrologio 244 Tortoligrave 870 Tortora 745 Toula Glacier 252 Tour du Mont Blanc 253 tourist information 885-6 tours
U Uccello Paolo 57 Udine 418-22 420 Uffizi 487-90 491 Ultra Trail Tour du Mont Blanc 252 Umbria 560-99 564 Umbria Jazz 570 Under the Tuscan Sun 558 underground tours 317 649
IND
EX
V
IND
EX
942 I N D E X ( U - W )
Urbino 606-9 607 Ururi 633 Ustica 774 UTMB 252
vaccinations 903 Val Badia 339-41 Val drsquoAveto 208 Val di Fassa 328-9 Val di Fiemme 327 Val di Genova 325 Val di Gressoney 256-8 Val di Magra 214 Val di Non 326 Val di Rabbi 326-7 Val di Solda 336 Val di Sole 326 Val Gardena 337-8 Val Grande National Park 85 Val Martello 336-7 Val Pusteria 341-2 Valcamonica rock drawings 86 Valentinian 39 Valle drsquoAosta 192 194 245-58 246 Valle drsquoAyas 256-8 Valle dei Templi 820 Valle di Chisone 234 Valle di Susa 234 Vallee Blanche 252 Valley of the Temples 820 Vallunga 337 Valnerina the 594-5 Valpolicella 397-8 Valsesia 256-8 802 Valtellina 285 Valtournenche 255-6 Vaneze di Monte 319 vaporetto travel 380-1 Varallo 256 257 Varenna 306 Vasari Giorgio 55 57 Vasograven 319 Vasto 629 Vatican City 131-6 Vatican Museums 133-6 Velia 693 Veneto the 343-400 346 Venice 345-81 348-9 352-3
accommodation 370-3 cafes 375
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
children travel with 369 discount cards 351 drinking 376-7 entertainment 377-8 festivals 369 food 373-6 history 345-7 itineraries 347 shopping 378 379 sights 350-67 tourist information 350 travel tofrom 378-80 travel within 380-1
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Venosa 738-9 Ventimiglia 219-20 Ventotene 190-1 Verbania 298 Vercelli 245 Verdi Giuseppe 457 Verdi Country 456-7 Vernazza 209 Verona 392-7 394 Veronese Paolo 57 Versace Gianni 304 Vespasian 38 Vesuvio National Park 85 Vezio 306 Via Appia Antica 136-9 Via Ferrata delle Bocchette 322 Vibo Valentia 755 Vicenza 388-92 389 vie cave 554 vie ferrate 322 341 Vieste 701-2 701 Villa Adriana 181 Villa Balbianello 304 Villa Borghese 125-6 Villa Capra 390-1 Villa Carlotta 305 Villa Cipressi 306 Villa drsquoEste 181-2 Villa Floridiana 647 Villa Foscari 381 Villa Foscarini Rossi 382 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Kunkler 386 Villa Manin 422 Villa Maseacuter 392 Villa Monastero 306 Villa Pisani Nazionale 381-2 Villa Quintili 138 villa rentals 874-5 Villa Romana del Casale 818
Villa Rufolo 688 Villa Valmarana lsquoai Nanirsquo 390 Villa Welsperg 327 Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari 381 Villasimius 844 vineyards 442
Aosta 249 Barolo 240-1 Greve in Chianti 534 La Morra 240 Valpolicella 398
violins 289 Virgil 66 visas 887-8 see also passports Visconti family 43 Viterbo 184-7 185 Vittoriale degli Italiani il 310 volcanoes 82
waterfalls 311 616 water sports 72 weather 20 876-7 websites see internet resources weights 872 see inside front cover whale-watching 201 Whitaker Joseph 824-5 white-water rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
wildlife 81-4 see also individual animals amp plants
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
Arzachena 862-3 Ascoli Piceno 613-16 614 Asinara National Park 85 Asolo 392 Aspromonte 85 750-1 Assisi 580-6 581 Asti 243-4 audiences with the pope 132 Auditorium Parco della Musica 171-2 Augustus 38 90 Autodromo Nazionale Monza 276 Avellino 660
B BampBs 872 Badia di Passignano 534 Baia 658-9 ballooning 239 balsamic vinegar 458 Barbaresco 241-2 Barga 519
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Bari 708-12 709 Barletta 707-8 Barolo 240-1 Bartali Gino 72 Barumini 850-1 Basilica di San Francesco (Assisi) 580-3 Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano
129 Basilica di San Giulio 294 Basilica di San Marco (Rome) 118 Basilica di San Marco ( Venice)
355-6 9 Basilica di San Paolo Fuori-le-Mura 86 Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli 126-7 Basilica di San Vitale 465 Basilica di Santa Caterina
drsquoAlessandria 726 Basilica di Santa Cecilia in Trastevere
131 Basilica di Santa Croce (Florence)
493-4 160 Basilica di Santa Croce (Lecce) 723 Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
127-8 Basilica Palladiana 388 Basilicata 695 697 731-42 732 Bassano del Grappa 392 Baunei 869-70 Baveno 298 Bay of Naples 660-70 beaches
Agropoli 693 Alghero 854 857 Arcipelago di La Maddalena 861 Cagliari 839-41 Cala Gonone 868 Capo Vaticano 754 Cefalugrave 776 Costa del Sud 845 Costa Rei 844 Costa Verde 848 Erchie 689 Finale Ligure 216 Golfo Aranci 864 Grado 416 Iglesiente Coast 846 799 Ischia 668 Lido 366 Lignano 417 Lipari 780 Marina del Cantone 680 Marina di Sorso 859 Mondello 773 Noli 216 North Oristano Coast 852
Otranto 727 Palau 861 Panarea 784 Pesaro 610 Pescara 627 Platamona 859 Porto Cervo 862 Porto Conte 857 Positano 682 Praia a Mare 745 Praiano 684 Procida 669 Rimini 470-1 Salina 783 San Domino 704 Santa Teresa di Gallura 860-1 SantrsquoAntioco 847 Sardinia 844 Scilla 754 Sinis Peninsula 852 Stintino 860 Stromboli 785 Syracuse 811 Taormina 791-2 Taranto 730 Tropea 754 Ustica 774 Vieste 701 Villasimius 844 Vulcano 782
bears 81-2 323 626 bella figura la 61-2 Bellagio 302-4 Bellini Giovanni 57 bell-making 632 Belluno 399-400 Benevento 659-60 Bergamo 281-5 282 Berlusconi Silvio 18 19 46 47-8
62 63 65 Bernalda 733 Bernini Gianlorenzo 57 125 126 bicycle hire 897 bicycle travel see cycling Biennale di Venezia 369 birdwatching 210
Comacchio 464 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Po Delta 463 Riomaggiore 210 Sabaudia 190
canoeing continued Dorgali 867 Oliena 866 Palau 861 Parco Regionale della Maremma
553 Stintino 860 Varallo 257
Canolo 750 Canova Antonio 58 125 canyoning
Courmayeur 252 Val di Sole 326
capers 783 Capitoline Hill 116-18 Capitoline Museums 50 117 Capo Caccia 857 Capo Carbonara 844 Capo Ferrato 844 Capo Malfatano 845 Capo Milazzo 778 Capo Vaticano 754 Capoliveri 533 Cappella degli Scrovegni 383-5 Cappella di Monte Siepi 544 Cappella Palatina 766 Capella Sistina 135-6 Caprai 704 Capri 660-7 661 Capri Town 662-3 663 car travel
insurance 898 tofrom Italy 893 894 within Italy 897-9
Caracci Annibale 55-6 57 Caravaggio Michelangelo Merisi da
marble 520 Casa delle Vestali (House of the Vestal
Virgins) 115 Casa di Giulietta (Julietrsquos House) 393 Casa Natale di Giuseppe Verdi 457 Casale Monferrato 244 Cascata del Varone 311 Caserta 659
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Casinograve di Venezia 377 Castel del Monte 708 Castel Gandolfo 188 Castel Nuovo 647 Castel SantrsquoAngelo 136 Castel SantrsquoElmo 646-7 Castel Savoia 256 Castel Tirolo 334 Castel Trauttmansdorff 334 Castelbuono 775 CastellrsquoArquato 459 Castelli Romani 187-9 Castellina 535-6 Castello 363-5 Castello Bardi 457 Castello del Buonconsiglio 317 Castello di Duino 412 Castello di Feacutenis 251 Castello di Miramare 411-12 Castello di Montefioralle 534 Castello di Rivoli 226-7 Castello di Sainte-Pierre 251 Castello di San Giusto 404 Castello di Sarre 251 Castello di Verrazzano 534 Castello di Verregraves 251 Castello drsquoIssogne 251 Castello Estense 460-1 Castello Sforzesco amp Parco Sempione
Catacombe dei Cappuccini 767 Catacombe di San Gennaro 648-9 Catacombs of San Callisto 137 Catacombs of San Domitilla 137 Catacombs of San Sebastiano 137
Catania 793-806 794 Catanzaro 750 cathedrals
Amalfi 685 Ancona 603 Aosta 248-9 Arezzo 555-6 Bari 710 Cagliari 838 Catania 795 Cefalugrave 776 Como 299-301
Cavalese 327 Cavallini Pietro 56 Cave di Colonnata 520 Cave di Fantiscritti 520 Cave di Torano 520 Cavedago 322 caves
Filicudi 786 Grotta Azzurra 664 Grotta de Su Mannau 846 Grotta del Bue Marino 868 Grotta del Genoves 830
IND
EX I N D E X ( C ) 929
Grotta dello Smeraldo 686 Grotta di Nettuno 857 Grotta di San Giovanni 846 Grotta Gigante 413 Grotte dellrsquoAngelo Pertosa 694 Grotte di Castelcivita 694 Grotte di Castellana 713 Grotte di Frasassi 611 Orvieto 597 Polignano a Mare 713 San Domino 704
Cavour Count Camillo Benso di 44 Cefalugrave 776-7 Celio 129-30 cell phones 885 ceramics 576 Cernobbio 304 Certosa di Pavia 279-80 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Certosa di San Martino 646 Cerveteri 182-3 Champoluc 256 chariot races 633 cheese tasting 249 Cherasco 239-40 Chia 845 Chianti 533-6 Chiesa del Gesugrave 119 Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore 365 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli
(Rome) 125 Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie 265 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Aracoeli 117 Chieti 628-9 children travel with 875-6
amusement parks 309 471 aquariums 200 331 648 Florence 497-8 health 905 language 911 Rome 139 Venice 369 zoos 297 626
Chirico Giorgio de 58 chocolate 231 569-70 Christ Stopped at Eboli 731 734 739 Christian Democrats 46 Christianity 39-41 churches see also cathedrals
Basilica di San Clemente 129-30 Basilica di San Francesco (Assisi)
580-3 Basilica di San Frediano 517 Basilica di San Giovanni in
Laterano 129
Basilica di San Giulio 294 Basilica di San Giusto 404 Basilica di San Lorenzo 492 Basilica di San Marco (Rome) 118 Basilica di San Marco ( Venice)
355-6 9 Basilica di San Nicola 710 Basilica di San Petronio 428 Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli
126-7 Basilica di San Saturnino 839 Basilica di San Vitale 465 Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore 395 Basilica di Santa Caterina
drsquoAlessandria 726 Basilica di Santa Cecilia in
Trastevere 131 Basilica di Santa Croce (Florence)
493-4 160 Basilica di Santa Croce (Lecce) 723 Basilica di Santa Maria del Carmine
497 Basilica di Santa Maria in
Trastevere 130 Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
127-8 Basilica di Santa Maria Novella 491 Basilica di SantrsquoAbbondio 301 Basilica di SantrsquoAndrea 291 Basilica di SantrsquoAntonio 385-6 Basilica di SantrsquoApollinare in
Classe 466 Basilica di SantrsquoApollinare Nuovo
466 Basilica di Santo Spirito 497 Basilica di Superga 228 Chiesa degli Eremitani 385 Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis 136 Chiesa del Gesugrave 119 Chiesa della Madonna dellrsquoOrto
363 Chiesa della Santa Trigravenita 491 Chiesa di Piedigrotta 755 Chiesa di San Francesco (Arezzo)
555 Chiesa di San Francesco
(Sorrento) 677 Chiesa di San Francesco della
Vigna 364 Chiesa di San Francesco di Paola
647 Chiesa di San Giorgio 815 Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
365 Chiesa di San Michele in Foro 516
Chiesa di San Miniato al Monte 496
Chiesa di San Polo 361 Chiesa di San Zaccaria 364-5 Chiesa di Santa Corona 390 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli
(Rome) 125 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli
(Venice) 363 Chiesa di Santa Maria del Giglio
358 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute
359 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Spina
526 Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie
265 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Aracoeli
117 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin
122 Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra
Minerva 119 Chiesa di SantrsquoAnastasia 395 Chiesa di Santo Stefano 358 Chiesa di SantrsquoOrso 249 Chiesa e Battistero dei SS Giovanni
e Reparata 516 Chiesa Russa Ortodossia 217 Convent of the Minor Capuchin
Friars 703 Duomo di San Giovanni (Turin) 226 Gesuati 360 Madonna delle Virtugrave and San
Nicola del Greci 735 San Gimignano Basilica 544 Santa Caterina del Sasso 298 Santuario dellrsquoAnnunziata 826 Santuario di Nostra Signora di
Bonaria 839 Santuario di San Francesco di
Paola 745 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 Zanipolo 363-4
cicheti 373 cicloturismo (bicycle tourism) 433 Cilento e Vallo di Diano National Park
85 693-4 cinema 23 68-9 127 637 759 cinghiale 563 Cinque Terre 208-11 Cinque Terre National Park 85 Circeo National Park 82 85 Circo di Massenzio 137-8 Circo Massimo 114
IND
EX
IN
DEX
930 I N D E X ( C - D )
Cisternino 715 Civica Galleria drsquoArte Moderna 270-1 Cividale del Friuli 422 Civita 743 Civitavecchia 184 Civitella Alfedena 626 classical music 70 Claudius 38 climate 20 876-7 climate change 892 climbing 804
Altipiano della Paganella 322-3 Courmayeur 252-3 Domusnovas 846 Milky Way 234 Oliena 866 Sardinia 838 selvaggio blu 800 Sinis Peninsula 852 vie ferrate 341
Clooney George 304 Cocullo 624 Coddu Ecchju 863 coffee 76 410 439 Cogne 254 Colli Albani see Castelli Romani Colli Euganei 386 Colonna di Traiano ( Trajanrsquos Column)
49 Colosseum 112 Columbus Christopher 200 Comacchio 464 comics 66 communism 47 Como 299-302 300 Como Lake see Lago di Como Condofuri 751 Conegliano 398-9 confetti 623 Constantine I 39 consulates 879-80 contemporary art 272 Convent of the Minor Capuchin
Friars 703 cooking see food Coppola Francis Ford 733 Corniglia 209-10 Corricella 669 Cortina drsquoAmpezzo 400 Cortona 558-9 Corvara 339 340
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Cosenza 745-8 746 Costa del Sud 845 Costa Rei 844 Costa Smeralda 862-3 Costa Verde 848 Costiera Cilentana 692-3 costs 20-1 see also inside front
language 909-11 emigration 63 Emilia-Romagna 425-73 429 emperors 36-9 endangered species 82-8 Enna 817-18 Ente Lirico Arena di Verona 70 7 environmental issues 84-8 Ercolano 670-2 Erice 828-9 Esquilino (Esquiline) 126-9 Estate Romana 144 172 Este 386 Etruscan history 33-4 Etruscan sites 182-3 553-4 Euganean Hills 386 Eugubian Tablets 587 EUR 138-9 138 Eurochocolate 570 events 25-6 exchange rates see inside front cover
F Faenza 468 Fai della Paganella 322 farmstays 579 Farnese collection 646
Farro 563 fascism 44-6 fashion 173 272 277
courses 497 Fattoria di Celle 514 Favignana 830-1 Fellini Federico 68-9 127 Ferdinando I 494-5 Ferrara 459-63 460 Ferrari 449 ferries
Aeolian Islands 778-9 Bari 711-12 Brindisi 720-1 Elba 531 Lago Maggiore Express 295 Livorno 530 Messina 788-9 Sardinia 184 837 Sicily 757-9 763 tofrom Italy 896 within Italy 897
Festa del Redentore 26 Festa di San Marco 369 Festival dei Due Mondi 592 festivals 25-6 see also individual cities
Biennale di Venezia 369 Carnevale 25 369 chariot races 633 chilli-eating competition 745 Estate Romana 144 172 Eurochocolate 570 Festa del Redentore 26 Festa di San Marco 369 Festa di San Nicola 710 Festival dei Due Mondi 592 food 77-8 International Festival of Undershy
water Activities 774 Le Feste di Pasqua 730 Processione dei Serpari 624 Quintana 615 Ravenna Festival 467 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Sagra del Pesce 205 Salone Internazionale del Gusto
228 Settimana Santa 25 678 Strawberry Festival 336 Turin Book Fair 228 Umbria Jazz 570 Venice International Film
Festival 26 369 Fiabilandia 471 Fiesole 510-12
IND
EX
IN
DEX
932 I N D E X ( F - G )
Filicudi 786-7 film 23 68-9 127 637 759
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Fiumicello 740 Florence 476-510 480-1 484-5 488
accommodation 498-501 cafes 506 children travel with 497-8 entertainment 507-8 festivals 498 food 501-5 gelaterie 505 history 476 itineraries 479 shopping 508-9 sights 480-97 tourist information 479-80 tours 498 travel tofrom 509 travel within 510
Foci del Po 463 Foggia 705 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 fontina 250 food 73-80 880
football 71-2 233 AC Milan 276 corruption 233 Inter Milan 276 Juventus 233 San Siro stadium 276 Stadio Olimpico (Rome) 172 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232
Foresta Umbra 698 Foreste Casentinesi Monte Falterona e
Campigna National Park 85 Formula One 276 Forni di Sopra 424 Fortuny Tessuti Artistici 365 Forza Italia 48 Fossa delle Felci 783 Fossa di Vulcano 781-2 Frarsquo Angelico 52 57 492 Francesca Piero della 57 558 Franciacorta 307 Franciscan sites 583-4 Franco-Austrian War 44 Frascati 188 Frederick I (Barbarossa) Emperor 41-2 Frederick II 705 706 Friuli Venezia Giulia 401-24 404 Fuksas Massimiliano 139 funiculars see cable cars Funtanamare 846 Futurism 58
G Gaius (Caligula) 37 38 Galatina 726 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna e
358-9 galleries see museums amp galleries Gallipoli 728-9 7 Gambarie 751 garbage crisis 48 84 gardens see parks amp gardens Garfagnana the 519 Gargagnano 398 Gargano National Park 85 696-8 Garibaldi Giuseppe 44 823 861
gay travellers 880 Bologna 434 Milan 276 Rome 169
gelato 151 505 gelato-making 678 Gennargentu e Golfo di Orosei
Gentileschi Artemesia 57 490 geography 81 geology 81 Gerace 750 Ghiberti Lorenzo 57 Ghirlandaio Domenico 56 Gianicolo 131 Giara di Gesturi 851 Giardino di Bardini 496 Giardino di Boboli 496 Giotto 51 56 383-5 Giudecca 365 Giulie Alps 423 gladiator school 142 Gola Su Gorruppu 867-8 Golden Quad 277 Gole dellrsquoAlcagraventara 792 golf 234 Golfo Aranci 864 Golfo di Castellammare 829-30 Golfo di Orosei 868-9 Gomorra 67 68 gondolas 367-8 Gorizia 413-14 Gorruppu Gorge see Gola Su
Gorruppu Grado 416 graffiti 866 Gran Paradiso National Park 85
254-5 804 Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga
National Park 85 620 Grand Canal 350-5 grappa 77 Gravedona 305 Gressoney-La-Triniteacute 256 Gressoney-St-Jean 256
I N D E X ( G - I ) 933
Greve in Chianti 534-5 Grotta Azzurra 664 Grotta de Su Mannau 846 Grotta del Bue Marino 868 Grotta del Genoves 830 Grotta dello Smeraldo 686 Grotta di San Giovanni 846 Grotta Gigante 413 Grottaferrata 188 Grotte di Castellana 713 Grotte di Frasassi 611 Gruppo del Sella 329 Gubbio 587-90 588 Guggenheim Peggy 359
H Hadrian 38 39 119 181 hammam 767 hang-gliding
Castelluccio 594 Val Badia 340
haute couture 277 hay baths 340 health 903-5 heli-skiing
Courmayeur 252 Milky Way 234
Hemingway Ernest 295 Herculaneum 86 670-2 671 hiking
Alicudi 786 Alpe di Siusi 338 alte vie 316 Amalfi Coast 681 Apuane Alps 520 Aosta 249 Apennines 457 Baunei 869 Cala Gonone 868 Capri 665 Courmayeur 252-3 Dolomites 314-16 Dorgali 867 Elba 531 Gola Su Gorruppu 867-8 itinerary 32 Lipari 780 Madonna di Campiglio 322
325 Maritime Alps 237 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Milky Way 234 Mt Etna 807 Oliena 866 Pantelleria 831
Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie 775-6
Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e Molise 626 627
Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano 693
Parco Nazionale della Majella 624 Parco Regionale della Maremma
297 Isola Bella (Sicily) 792 Isola Caprera 861-2 Isola della Maddalena 861 Isola Madre 297 Isola Maggiore 577 Isola Polvese 577 Isola San Giulio 294 Isola San Pietro 847-8
IND
EX
934 I N D E X ( I - M )
Isola Superiore (Pescatori) 298
Isole Pelagie 822 Isole Pontine 190-1 Isole Tremiti 704-5 Italia in Miniatura 471 itineraries 27-32
J Janiculum 131 jet lag 904 jewellery design 497 Jewish culture 553 809 Jewish ghetto (Rome) 121-3 Jewish history 362-3 Joyce James 407 Julietrsquos House 393
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Julius Caesar 36-7 90 Juventus 233
K kayaking
Courmayeur 252 Elba 531 533 Val di Sole 326 Varallo 257
kite-surfing Palau 861 Sinis Peninsula 852
L la bella figura 61-2 La Fenice 70 La Garfagnana see Garfagnana the La Magdeleine 255 La Morra 240-1 La Rotonda 390-1 La Scala 264 La Sila 748-9 La Spezia 211-13 212 La vita egrave bella 555 Ladin 337 339 Laghetto di Fanghi 782 Laghi di Fusine 423-4 Lago di Albano 188 Lago di Como 299-306 9 Lago di Garda 307-12 803 Lago di Lesina 701 Lago di Lugano 305 Lago di Nemi 188 Lago di Piano 305 Lago di Varano 701 Lago drsquoIseo 306-7 Lago drsquoOrta 294-5 Lago Lario see Lago di Como Lago Maggiore 295-9 Lago Omedeo Circuit 852-3 Lago Trasimeno 576-8 Laguna di Marano 416 Lampedusa Giuseppe Tomasi di 66 Langhirano 457 language 906-11
Levanzo 830-1 Levi Carlo 67 731 734 739-40 Levi Primo 66 Lido the 366 Lignano 417 Liguria 192-220 196 limoncello 77 Lingotto Fiere 227 Lipari 779-81 Lippi Filippino 56 Lippi Filippo 52 57 495 literature 22-4 65-7 Livorno 528-30 529 Locorotondo 714-15 Lombardy 259-312 260 Lorenzetti brothers 52 56 Loreto 606 Lorica 748 Lovere 307 Lucanian Apennines see Appennino
Lucano Lucca 514-19 515 9 Lucera 705-6
M Macerata 611-13 Machiavelli 67 Madonna di Campiglio 322-6 324 Mafia 48 757 761 Majella National Park 85 624-5 majolica ceramics 576 Malcesine 310 Malvasia wine 781 783 Mamoiada 866 mamuthones 866 Manarola 210 Mani Pulite 48 Manotra see Mantua Mantegna Andrea 53 57 Mantero 303
IND
EX
I N D E X ( M ) 935
Mantua 289-93 290 maps 882 Maranello 449-50 Marano Lagunare 416 Maratea 740-1 marble quarries 520 Marcialonga 328 Marciana Marina 533 Marcus Aurelius 39 Marettimo 830-1 Marina del Cantone 680-1 Marina di Camerota 693 Marina di Carrara 520 Marina di Furore 685 Marina di Massa 520 Marina di Sorso 859 Marinetti Filippo Tommaso 58 Maritime Alps 237 Mark Antony (Marcus Antonius) 37 markets
Ballarograve 766 11 Catania 795 Genoa 203 La Pescheria 795 Mercato del Capo 766 Mercato della Vucciria 766
Marsala 823-4 Martello 336-7 Martina Franca 715-17 Martini Simone 52 56 Masaccio 53 57 497 mask making 367 masseria (manor farm) 716 Masua 846 Matera 733-8 12 mattanza 831 847 Matterhorn 255 Mausoleo di Cecilia Metell 138 Maximilian 412 measures 872 see also inside front
cover medical services 904 see also
health Medici family 43 476 492 494-5 Meier Richard 124 Menaggio 305 Merano 333-5 Mercato di Ballarograve 766 11 Messina 787-9 Messina Bridge project 87 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Metaponto 733 metric conversions see inside front
Milan 260-79 266-9 accommodation 271-3 drinking 274-5 entertainment 275-6 festivals 271 food 273-4 gay amp lesbian travellers 276 shopping 277 sights 263-71 tourist information 263 tours 271 travel tofrom 277-8 travel within 278-9
Milazzo 777-8 Milky Way 234-5 Mille Miglia 449 Miramare 411-12 Mission Impossible III 659 Mithraism 130 mobile phones 885 Modena 446-9 447 Modena Cento Ore 449 Modica 815-16 Moena 328 Molise 619 621 625 629-33 630 Moltrasio 304 Molveno 322 323 Mona Lisa 54 Monastery of St Benedict 189 Moncalvo 244 Mondello 773 money 20-1 882-3 see also inside
front cover discount cards Monferrato 244-5 Monreale 773-4 Monselice 386 Montagnana 386 Montalcino 550-1 Monte Bondone 319 Monte Cassino 189 Monte Isola 307 Monte Ortobene 865 Monte Pellegrino 773 Monte Rocchetta 311 Monte Rosa 256 Monte SantrsquoAngelo 702-4 Monte Ursino 216 Montepulciano 551-2 Monterosso 209 Monti del Matese 631 Monti Ferru 852 Monti Sibillini 85 594-5 616-17
Aosta 249 Cala Gonone 868 Courmayeur 252-3 Milky Way 234 Stresa 296 tours 868 Val Badia 340
mountain huts 874 mountaineering 257
Messner Reinhold 331 332 Mozia 825 Mt Etna 806-8 800 Mt Vesuvius 672-3 mud baths 782 831 Muggia 402 412-13 multiculturalism 62-3 Mundi Stupor 41 Munthe Axel 663 Murano 366-7 Murat Joachim 755 Murgia plateau 713-18 737 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto Adige
331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano 779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale 645 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia
751 Museo Nazionale di San Matteo 525 Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo
Massimo alle Terme 128-9 Museum of Glass 366 museums amp galleries
270-1 Galleria drsquoArte Moderna 361 Galleria dellrsquoAccademia (Florshy
ence) 493 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Antica
(Rome) 123 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna
e Contemporanea (Rome) 126
IND
EX
936 I N D E X ( M - N )
museums amp galleries continued Gallerie dellrsquoAccademia ( Venice)
358-9 Gallerie di Palazzo Leoni Montanshy
ari 390 Keats-Shelley Memorial House 124 MAAM (Museo a Cielo Aperto
dellrsquoArchitettura Moderna) 245 MAXXI art gallery 164 164 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Musei di Strada Nuova 197-8 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto
Adige 331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano
779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Naples) 645-6 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Sardinia) 838 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
dellrsquoUmbria 569 Museo Archeologico Paolo Orsi 811 Museo Civico (Siena) 538 Museo Civico (Vicenza)390 Museo Civico Archeologico
(Bologna) 430 Museo Claudio Faina e Civico 597 Museo Correr 357 Museo del Bargello 490 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo della Fondazione Querini
Stampalia 364 Museo della Scultura
Contemporanea 735-6 Museo della Seta 301 Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni
Sarde 865 Museo dellrsquoAra Pacis 124 158 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo dellrsquoOpera Metropolitana
539 Museo di Capodimonte 648 Museo di Roma 121 Museo di San Marco (Florence)
492 Museo Ebraico 363 Museo Ebraico di Roma 122 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Etrusco Guarnacci 548 Museo Fortuny 358
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Museo Nazionale Archeologico ( Taranto) 730
Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia 751
Museo Nazionale Romano Crypta Balbi 120
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Altemps 120-1
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo alle Terme 128-9
Museo Nazionale Romano Terme di Diocleziano 128
Museo Palatino 113 Museo Walser 256 Museum of Glass 366 Padiglione drsquoArte Contemporanea
accommodation 570-1 courses 570 drinking 572 festivals 570 food 571-2 history 565 language courses 570 shopping 573 sights 568-70 tourist information 567 travel tofrom 573-4 travel within 574-5
Perugia Universitagrave per Stranieri 570 Perugina chocolate factory 569-70 Perugino 56 Pesaro 609-11 Pescara 627-8 Pescasseroli 625 626 Peschici 698-700 Pescocostanzo 624-5 Petralia Soprana 775 Petralia Sottana 775 Petrarch 67 386 Phoenician ruins 825 847 phone cards 885 Piacenza 457-9 Piano Renzo 171-2 Piano Battaglia 775 Piazza Barberini 123-4 Piazza dei Miracoli 86 523-5 Piazza del Popolo 124-8 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Piazza della Repubblica 128-32 Piazza di Spagna 124 Piazza Navona 120 Piazza San Marco 355-7 Piazza San Pietro 132 Piazza Venezia 118-19 Piccione 563 Piedmont 192 194 220-45 221 Pienza 551 Pietagrave 133 Pietra di Bismantova 452 Pietrabbondante 632 Pietrapertosa 740 Pietrasanta 521 Pigra 304
Pila 249 pilgrimage 702-3 Pinacoteca di Brera 270 Pinzolo 324-6 Piombi 356 Pirandello Luigi 67 Pisa 521-8 522 Pisano Giovanni 56 539 Pisano Nicola 51 56 524 Pisciotta 693 Pistoia 512-14 513 Pitigliano 553-4 Pitti family 495-6 Pizzo 755 Plan de Corones 341 planning 20-4 see also itineraries
discount cards plants 83-4 Platamona 859 Plateau Rosa 255-6 256 Po Delta 463-4 poetry 67 Policoro 733 Polignano a Mare 712-13 politics 18-9 64-5 Pollara 783 Parco Nazionale del Pollino
(Basilicata) 85 741-2 Parco Nazionale del Pollino (Calabria)
85 743-5 pollution 84 718 878 Pompeii 86 673-6 Ponte di Calatrava 350 Ponza 190-1 pop music 70-1 popes 39-41 90 132 Popolo della Libertagrave 48 population 62-4 Pordenone 417 Porlezza 305 Porto Cervo 862 Porto Conte 857 Porto Ferro 857 Porto Teulada 845 Porto Torres 860 Porto Venere 213-14 Portocannone 633 Portoferraio 531-3 Portofino 206 Positano 682-4 683 Possagno 392 postal services 883-4 Potenza 739 Pozzuoli 657-8 Praia a Mare 745
I N D E X ( P - S ) 939
Praiano 684-5 Processione dei Serpari 624 Procida 669-72 Promontorio del Gargano 696-704 prosciutto 422-3 458 Prosecco 398-9 Provenzano Bernardo 761 public transport 900 Puglia 696-731 699 Pula 844-5 Punta della Dogana 359-60 Punta Helbronner 253 puppet shows 809 Pythagoras 733
Q Quadrilatero drsquoOro 277 Quintana 615
R Radda in Chianti 536 radio 872 rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
Ragusa 816-17 rail passes 895 Rapallo 207-8 Raphael 56 126 134 135 490 495 Ravello 687-8 Ravenna 464-8 465 Ravenna Festival 467 Red Brigades 47 Refounded Communist Party 47 Regata Storica 369 Reggio di Calabria 751-3 752 Reggio Emilia 450-2 451 religion 64 Remus 34 Renaissance art 53-5 56 57 Repubblica di San Marino 473 responsible travel 21-2
resources 22 Ribera Giuseppe de 57 Rimini 468-73 469 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Riola Sardo 852 Riomaggiore 210 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822 Riva 311 Riva del Garda 311 Rivello 740-1 Riviera di Levante 205-14
Riviera di Ponente 215-20 road distance chart 899 Robbia Andrea della 57 Rocca Meli Lupi 456 Rocca Sanvitale 456 rock carvings 830 rock-climbing see climbing Roghudi 751 Roman Baths of Caracalla 70 Roman Empire 34-6 40 35 Roman Forum 114 Rome 89-191 95-110
accommodation 144-50 children travel with 139 clubbing 168-71 cooking 140-2 courses 140-2 discount cards 111 drinking 165-8 entertainment 171-2 festivals 143-4 food 150-65 gay amp lesbian travellers 169 history 90 shopping 172-4 sights 112-39 tourist information 94-111 travel tofrom 174-5 travel within 175-9 walking tours 140 143 141
S Sabaudia 190 Sabbioneta 293 Sacile 402 417-18 Saepinum 630-1 sailing 207 812 861 saints 915 see also individual saints Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci (Chamber
of the Council of 10) 356 salami 594 Salentine Peninsula see Penisola
Salentina Salerno 689-92 689 Salina 783-4 Saline di Trapani 824-5 Salograve 309 Saluzzo 236-8 San Benedetto Po 293 San Carlo Borromeo 298
San Costantino Albanese 741-2 San Daniele del Friuli 402 422-3 San Domino 704 San Francesco di Paola 745 San Fruttuoso 205-6 San Gimignano 544-7 545 San Giorgio 398 San Giorgio Maggiore 365-6 San Giovanni 129-30 San Giovanni in Fiore 748 San Giovanni Rotondo 703 San Marino 473-4 473 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 San Martino in Pensilis 633 San Michele 366 San Nicola 704 San Pantaleo 824 862-3 San Paolo Albanese 741-2 San Pietro in Cariano 397 San Polo 360-1 San Remo 217-19 218 San Siro stadium 276 San Terenzo 214 Sansepolcro 558 Santa Caterina di Pittinuri 852 Santa Caterina di Siena 540 Santa Cecilia 131 Santa Cristina 337-8 Santa Croce 360-1 Santa Margherita 206-7 Santa Maria di Leuca 728 Santa Maria Navarrese 870 Santa Severina 749 Santa Teresa di Gallura 860-1 SantrsquoAgata sui due Golfi 680 SantrsquoAmbrogio di Valpolicella 398 SantrsquoAntioco 847-8 SantrsquoArcangelo 742 Santo Stefano drsquoAveto 208 Santuario della Madonna del Terzito
783 Santuario di San Michele 703 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri 851 Sardinia 184 833-70 834 Sarnano 618 Sarnico 306 Sarto Andrea del 56 Sarzana 214 Sassari 857-9 858 sassi 733 735-6 737 Sauris di Sopra 424 Saviano Roberto 67 68 Savona 215-16 Savonarola Girolamo 42 Scala Santa 129
Signorelli Luca 56 Sila National Park 85 silk 299 303 Sinis Peninsula 851-2 Sirmione 307 308-9 Sistine Chapel 135-6 skiing see also cross-country skiing
Abruzzo 625 Alta Badia 339 340 Aosta 249
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Bormio 336 Breuil-Cervinia 255-6 Camigliatello Silano 748 Campitello Matese 625 631 Campo di Giove 625 Campo Felice 625 Campo Imperatore 625 Cermis ski area 327 Champoluc 256 Cogne 254 Courmayeur 252 Dolomites 314 798 itinerary 32 Lecco 306 Lorica 748 Madonna di Campiglio 322 324-5 Merano 334-5 Milky Way 234 Molise 625 Ovindoli 625 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Passo della Stelvio 336 Pescasseroli 625 Pescocostanzo 625 Piano Battaglia 775 Plan de Corones 341 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 Sella Ronda 329 Stresa 296 Tarvisio 423 Val di Fassa 328 Val di Solda 336 Val Gardena 337 Valle drsquoAosta 247 Valtournenche 256
Spello 586-7 Sperlonga 190 Spilimbergo 418 Spoleto 590-3 591 Spoleto Festival see Festival dei Due
Mondi Spormaggiore 322 sport 71-2 squares see piazza St Benedict 189 St Catherine of Siena 119 St Francis of Assisi 580 582 583 584 St Michael the Archangel 702-3 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 St Peterrsquos Square 132 St Ubaldo 588 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232 Star Wars 659 Steinbeck John 682 Stelvio National Park 85 335-7 Stintino 860 stone towers 851 Strada del Vino Costa degli Etruschi 531 Stradivari Antonio 289 Strait of Messina bridge 789 strawberries 336 Strawberry Festival 336 Stresa 295-7 296 Stromboli 785-6 Studi di Scultura Carlo Nicoli 520 Stupor Mundi see Frederick I
tickets 276 Teatro Greco 791 Teatro La Fenice 357 378 Teatro Olimpico 390 Teatro Rossini 610-11 Teatro San Carlo 70 647 telephone services 884-5 television 62 Tellaro 214 Tempietto 131 163 Tempio di Antas 846 Tempio Malatestiano 470 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Caracalla 130 Terme di Diocleziano 128 Termini 126-9 Termoli 632-3 Terranova di Pollino 742 Tharros 851 The Last Supper 86 265 theatre 71 theft 878 theme parks 471 Theodosius I the Great 39 thermal springs
Colli Eugane 386 Preacute-St-Didier 253 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Rabbi 327 Terme di Saturnia 553 Terme Merano 334
Thomes 867 Tiberius 38 time 885 910 Tintoretto 57 367 tipping 883 Tirolo 335 Tiscali 868 Titian 57 118 Tivoli 181-2 Tizzano Val Parma 457 Todi 578-80 Tolmezzo 424 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes 867 Tomba di Giulietta (Julietrsquos Tomb) 393 Tommaso Filippo 58 Torbole 310-11
Torcello 367 Torgiano 575-6 Torino see Turin Torre Annunziata 86 Torre Branca 265 Torre Civica 237 Torre drsquoArnolfo 486 Torre degli Asinelli 431 Torre del Porticciolo 857 Torre delle Milizie 116 Torre dellrsquoElefante 838 Torre dellrsquoOrologio 357 Torre di Mariano II 849 Torre di San Pancrazio 838 Torre Pendente 523 161 Torre Porta a Terra 854 Torre Troyana o DellrsquoOrologio 244 Tortoligrave 870 Tortora 745 Toula Glacier 252 Tour du Mont Blanc 253 tourist information 885-6 tours
U Uccello Paolo 57 Udine 418-22 420 Uffizi 487-90 491 Ultra Trail Tour du Mont Blanc 252 Umbria 560-99 564 Umbria Jazz 570 Under the Tuscan Sun 558 underground tours 317 649
IND
EX
V
IND
EX
942 I N D E X ( U - W )
Urbino 606-9 607 Ururi 633 Ustica 774 UTMB 252
vaccinations 903 Val Badia 339-41 Val drsquoAveto 208 Val di Fassa 328-9 Val di Fiemme 327 Val di Genova 325 Val di Gressoney 256-8 Val di Magra 214 Val di Non 326 Val di Rabbi 326-7 Val di Solda 336 Val di Sole 326 Val Gardena 337-8 Val Grande National Park 85 Val Martello 336-7 Val Pusteria 341-2 Valcamonica rock drawings 86 Valentinian 39 Valle drsquoAosta 192 194 245-58 246 Valle drsquoAyas 256-8 Valle dei Templi 820 Valle di Chisone 234 Valle di Susa 234 Vallee Blanche 252 Valley of the Temples 820 Vallunga 337 Valnerina the 594-5 Valpolicella 397-8 Valsesia 256-8 802 Valtellina 285 Valtournenche 255-6 Vaneze di Monte 319 vaporetto travel 380-1 Varallo 256 257 Varenna 306 Vasari Giorgio 55 57 Vasograven 319 Vasto 629 Vatican City 131-6 Vatican Museums 133-6 Velia 693 Veneto the 343-400 346 Venice 345-81 348-9 352-3
accommodation 370-3 cafes 375
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
children travel with 369 discount cards 351 drinking 376-7 entertainment 377-8 festivals 369 food 373-6 history 345-7 itineraries 347 shopping 378 379 sights 350-67 tourist information 350 travel tofrom 378-80 travel within 380-1
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Venosa 738-9 Ventimiglia 219-20 Ventotene 190-1 Verbania 298 Vercelli 245 Verdi Giuseppe 457 Verdi Country 456-7 Vernazza 209 Verona 392-7 394 Veronese Paolo 57 Versace Gianni 304 Vespasian 38 Vesuvio National Park 85 Vezio 306 Via Appia Antica 136-9 Via Ferrata delle Bocchette 322 Vibo Valentia 755 Vicenza 388-92 389 vie cave 554 vie ferrate 322 341 Vieste 701-2 701 Villa Adriana 181 Villa Balbianello 304 Villa Borghese 125-6 Villa Capra 390-1 Villa Carlotta 305 Villa Cipressi 306 Villa drsquoEste 181-2 Villa Floridiana 647 Villa Foscari 381 Villa Foscarini Rossi 382 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Kunkler 386 Villa Manin 422 Villa Maseacuter 392 Villa Monastero 306 Villa Pisani Nazionale 381-2 Villa Quintili 138 villa rentals 874-5 Villa Romana del Casale 818
Villa Rufolo 688 Villa Valmarana lsquoai Nanirsquo 390 Villa Welsperg 327 Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari 381 Villasimius 844 vineyards 442
Aosta 249 Barolo 240-1 Greve in Chianti 534 La Morra 240 Valpolicella 398
violins 289 Virgil 66 visas 887-8 see also passports Visconti family 43 Viterbo 184-7 185 Vittoriale degli Italiani il 310 volcanoes 82
waterfalls 311 616 water sports 72 weather 20 876-7 websites see internet resources weights 872 see inside front cover whale-watching 201 Whitaker Joseph 824-5 white-water rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
wildlife 81-4 see also individual animals amp plants
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
canoeing continued Dorgali 867 Oliena 866 Palau 861 Parco Regionale della Maremma
553 Stintino 860 Varallo 257
Canolo 750 Canova Antonio 58 125 canyoning
Courmayeur 252 Val di Sole 326
capers 783 Capitoline Hill 116-18 Capitoline Museums 50 117 Capo Caccia 857 Capo Carbonara 844 Capo Ferrato 844 Capo Malfatano 845 Capo Milazzo 778 Capo Vaticano 754 Capoliveri 533 Cappella degli Scrovegni 383-5 Cappella di Monte Siepi 544 Cappella Palatina 766 Capella Sistina 135-6 Caprai 704 Capri 660-7 661 Capri Town 662-3 663 car travel
insurance 898 tofrom Italy 893 894 within Italy 897-9
Caracci Annibale 55-6 57 Caravaggio Michelangelo Merisi da
marble 520 Casa delle Vestali (House of the Vestal
Virgins) 115 Casa di Giulietta (Julietrsquos House) 393 Casa Natale di Giuseppe Verdi 457 Casale Monferrato 244 Cascata del Varone 311 Caserta 659
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Casinograve di Venezia 377 Castel del Monte 708 Castel Gandolfo 188 Castel Nuovo 647 Castel SantrsquoAngelo 136 Castel SantrsquoElmo 646-7 Castel Savoia 256 Castel Tirolo 334 Castel Trauttmansdorff 334 Castelbuono 775 CastellrsquoArquato 459 Castelli Romani 187-9 Castellina 535-6 Castello 363-5 Castello Bardi 457 Castello del Buonconsiglio 317 Castello di Duino 412 Castello di Feacutenis 251 Castello di Miramare 411-12 Castello di Montefioralle 534 Castello di Rivoli 226-7 Castello di Sainte-Pierre 251 Castello di San Giusto 404 Castello di Sarre 251 Castello di Verrazzano 534 Castello di Verregraves 251 Castello drsquoIssogne 251 Castello Estense 460-1 Castello Sforzesco amp Parco Sempione
Catacombe dei Cappuccini 767 Catacombe di San Gennaro 648-9 Catacombs of San Callisto 137 Catacombs of San Domitilla 137 Catacombs of San Sebastiano 137
Catania 793-806 794 Catanzaro 750 cathedrals
Amalfi 685 Ancona 603 Aosta 248-9 Arezzo 555-6 Bari 710 Cagliari 838 Catania 795 Cefalugrave 776 Como 299-301
Cavalese 327 Cavallini Pietro 56 Cave di Colonnata 520 Cave di Fantiscritti 520 Cave di Torano 520 Cavedago 322 caves
Filicudi 786 Grotta Azzurra 664 Grotta de Su Mannau 846 Grotta del Bue Marino 868 Grotta del Genoves 830
IND
EX I N D E X ( C ) 929
Grotta dello Smeraldo 686 Grotta di Nettuno 857 Grotta di San Giovanni 846 Grotta Gigante 413 Grotte dellrsquoAngelo Pertosa 694 Grotte di Castelcivita 694 Grotte di Castellana 713 Grotte di Frasassi 611 Orvieto 597 Polignano a Mare 713 San Domino 704
Cavour Count Camillo Benso di 44 Cefalugrave 776-7 Celio 129-30 cell phones 885 ceramics 576 Cernobbio 304 Certosa di Pavia 279-80 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Certosa di San Martino 646 Cerveteri 182-3 Champoluc 256 chariot races 633 cheese tasting 249 Cherasco 239-40 Chia 845 Chianti 533-6 Chiesa del Gesugrave 119 Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore 365 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli
(Rome) 125 Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie 265 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Aracoeli 117 Chieti 628-9 children travel with 875-6
amusement parks 309 471 aquariums 200 331 648 Florence 497-8 health 905 language 911 Rome 139 Venice 369 zoos 297 626
Chirico Giorgio de 58 chocolate 231 569-70 Christ Stopped at Eboli 731 734 739 Christian Democrats 46 Christianity 39-41 churches see also cathedrals
Basilica di San Clemente 129-30 Basilica di San Francesco (Assisi)
580-3 Basilica di San Frediano 517 Basilica di San Giovanni in
Laterano 129
Basilica di San Giulio 294 Basilica di San Giusto 404 Basilica di San Lorenzo 492 Basilica di San Marco (Rome) 118 Basilica di San Marco ( Venice)
355-6 9 Basilica di San Nicola 710 Basilica di San Petronio 428 Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli
126-7 Basilica di San Saturnino 839 Basilica di San Vitale 465 Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore 395 Basilica di Santa Caterina
drsquoAlessandria 726 Basilica di Santa Cecilia in
Trastevere 131 Basilica di Santa Croce (Florence)
493-4 160 Basilica di Santa Croce (Lecce) 723 Basilica di Santa Maria del Carmine
497 Basilica di Santa Maria in
Trastevere 130 Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
127-8 Basilica di Santa Maria Novella 491 Basilica di SantrsquoAbbondio 301 Basilica di SantrsquoAndrea 291 Basilica di SantrsquoAntonio 385-6 Basilica di SantrsquoApollinare in
Classe 466 Basilica di SantrsquoApollinare Nuovo
466 Basilica di Santo Spirito 497 Basilica di Superga 228 Chiesa degli Eremitani 385 Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis 136 Chiesa del Gesugrave 119 Chiesa della Madonna dellrsquoOrto
363 Chiesa della Santa Trigravenita 491 Chiesa di Piedigrotta 755 Chiesa di San Francesco (Arezzo)
555 Chiesa di San Francesco
(Sorrento) 677 Chiesa di San Francesco della
Vigna 364 Chiesa di San Francesco di Paola
647 Chiesa di San Giorgio 815 Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
365 Chiesa di San Michele in Foro 516
Chiesa di San Miniato al Monte 496
Chiesa di San Polo 361 Chiesa di San Zaccaria 364-5 Chiesa di Santa Corona 390 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli
(Rome) 125 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli
(Venice) 363 Chiesa di Santa Maria del Giglio
358 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute
359 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Spina
526 Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie
265 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Aracoeli
117 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin
122 Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra
Minerva 119 Chiesa di SantrsquoAnastasia 395 Chiesa di Santo Stefano 358 Chiesa di SantrsquoOrso 249 Chiesa e Battistero dei SS Giovanni
e Reparata 516 Chiesa Russa Ortodossia 217 Convent of the Minor Capuchin
Friars 703 Duomo di San Giovanni (Turin) 226 Gesuati 360 Madonna delle Virtugrave and San
Nicola del Greci 735 San Gimignano Basilica 544 Santa Caterina del Sasso 298 Santuario dellrsquoAnnunziata 826 Santuario di Nostra Signora di
Bonaria 839 Santuario di San Francesco di
Paola 745 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 Zanipolo 363-4
cicheti 373 cicloturismo (bicycle tourism) 433 Cilento e Vallo di Diano National Park
85 693-4 cinema 23 68-9 127 637 759 cinghiale 563 Cinque Terre 208-11 Cinque Terre National Park 85 Circeo National Park 82 85 Circo di Massenzio 137-8 Circo Massimo 114
IND
EX
IN
DEX
930 I N D E X ( C - D )
Cisternino 715 Civica Galleria drsquoArte Moderna 270-1 Cividale del Friuli 422 Civita 743 Civitavecchia 184 Civitella Alfedena 626 classical music 70 Claudius 38 climate 20 876-7 climate change 892 climbing 804
Altipiano della Paganella 322-3 Courmayeur 252-3 Domusnovas 846 Milky Way 234 Oliena 866 Sardinia 838 selvaggio blu 800 Sinis Peninsula 852 vie ferrate 341
Clooney George 304 Cocullo 624 Coddu Ecchju 863 coffee 76 410 439 Cogne 254 Colli Albani see Castelli Romani Colli Euganei 386 Colonna di Traiano ( Trajanrsquos Column)
49 Colosseum 112 Columbus Christopher 200 Comacchio 464 comics 66 communism 47 Como 299-302 300 Como Lake see Lago di Como Condofuri 751 Conegliano 398-9 confetti 623 Constantine I 39 consulates 879-80 contemporary art 272 Convent of the Minor Capuchin
Friars 703 cooking see food Coppola Francis Ford 733 Corniglia 209-10 Corricella 669 Cortina drsquoAmpezzo 400 Cortona 558-9 Corvara 339 340
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Cosenza 745-8 746 Costa del Sud 845 Costa Rei 844 Costa Smeralda 862-3 Costa Verde 848 Costiera Cilentana 692-3 costs 20-1 see also inside front
language 909-11 emigration 63 Emilia-Romagna 425-73 429 emperors 36-9 endangered species 82-8 Enna 817-18 Ente Lirico Arena di Verona 70 7 environmental issues 84-8 Ercolano 670-2 Erice 828-9 Esquilino (Esquiline) 126-9 Estate Romana 144 172 Este 386 Etruscan history 33-4 Etruscan sites 182-3 553-4 Euganean Hills 386 Eugubian Tablets 587 EUR 138-9 138 Eurochocolate 570 events 25-6 exchange rates see inside front cover
F Faenza 468 Fai della Paganella 322 farmstays 579 Farnese collection 646
Farro 563 fascism 44-6 fashion 173 272 277
courses 497 Fattoria di Celle 514 Favignana 830-1 Fellini Federico 68-9 127 Ferdinando I 494-5 Ferrara 459-63 460 Ferrari 449 ferries
Aeolian Islands 778-9 Bari 711-12 Brindisi 720-1 Elba 531 Lago Maggiore Express 295 Livorno 530 Messina 788-9 Sardinia 184 837 Sicily 757-9 763 tofrom Italy 896 within Italy 897
Festa del Redentore 26 Festa di San Marco 369 Festival dei Due Mondi 592 festivals 25-6 see also individual cities
Biennale di Venezia 369 Carnevale 25 369 chariot races 633 chilli-eating competition 745 Estate Romana 144 172 Eurochocolate 570 Festa del Redentore 26 Festa di San Marco 369 Festa di San Nicola 710 Festival dei Due Mondi 592 food 77-8 International Festival of Undershy
water Activities 774 Le Feste di Pasqua 730 Processione dei Serpari 624 Quintana 615 Ravenna Festival 467 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Sagra del Pesce 205 Salone Internazionale del Gusto
228 Settimana Santa 25 678 Strawberry Festival 336 Turin Book Fair 228 Umbria Jazz 570 Venice International Film
Festival 26 369 Fiabilandia 471 Fiesole 510-12
IND
EX
IN
DEX
932 I N D E X ( F - G )
Filicudi 786-7 film 23 68-9 127 637 759
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Fiumicello 740 Florence 476-510 480-1 484-5 488
accommodation 498-501 cafes 506 children travel with 497-8 entertainment 507-8 festivals 498 food 501-5 gelaterie 505 history 476 itineraries 479 shopping 508-9 sights 480-97 tourist information 479-80 tours 498 travel tofrom 509 travel within 510
Foci del Po 463 Foggia 705 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 fontina 250 food 73-80 880
football 71-2 233 AC Milan 276 corruption 233 Inter Milan 276 Juventus 233 San Siro stadium 276 Stadio Olimpico (Rome) 172 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232
Foresta Umbra 698 Foreste Casentinesi Monte Falterona e
Campigna National Park 85 Formula One 276 Forni di Sopra 424 Fortuny Tessuti Artistici 365 Forza Italia 48 Fossa delle Felci 783 Fossa di Vulcano 781-2 Frarsquo Angelico 52 57 492 Francesca Piero della 57 558 Franciacorta 307 Franciscan sites 583-4 Franco-Austrian War 44 Frascati 188 Frederick I (Barbarossa) Emperor 41-2 Frederick II 705 706 Friuli Venezia Giulia 401-24 404 Fuksas Massimiliano 139 funiculars see cable cars Funtanamare 846 Futurism 58
G Gaius (Caligula) 37 38 Galatina 726 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna e
358-9 galleries see museums amp galleries Gallipoli 728-9 7 Gambarie 751 garbage crisis 48 84 gardens see parks amp gardens Garfagnana the 519 Gargagnano 398 Gargano National Park 85 696-8 Garibaldi Giuseppe 44 823 861
gay travellers 880 Bologna 434 Milan 276 Rome 169
gelato 151 505 gelato-making 678 Gennargentu e Golfo di Orosei
Gentileschi Artemesia 57 490 geography 81 geology 81 Gerace 750 Ghiberti Lorenzo 57 Ghirlandaio Domenico 56 Gianicolo 131 Giara di Gesturi 851 Giardino di Bardini 496 Giardino di Boboli 496 Giotto 51 56 383-5 Giudecca 365 Giulie Alps 423 gladiator school 142 Gola Su Gorruppu 867-8 Golden Quad 277 Gole dellrsquoAlcagraventara 792 golf 234 Golfo Aranci 864 Golfo di Castellammare 829-30 Golfo di Orosei 868-9 Gomorra 67 68 gondolas 367-8 Gorizia 413-14 Gorruppu Gorge see Gola Su
Gorruppu Grado 416 graffiti 866 Gran Paradiso National Park 85
254-5 804 Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga
National Park 85 620 Grand Canal 350-5 grappa 77 Gravedona 305 Gressoney-La-Triniteacute 256 Gressoney-St-Jean 256
I N D E X ( G - I ) 933
Greve in Chianti 534-5 Grotta Azzurra 664 Grotta de Su Mannau 846 Grotta del Bue Marino 868 Grotta del Genoves 830 Grotta dello Smeraldo 686 Grotta di San Giovanni 846 Grotta Gigante 413 Grottaferrata 188 Grotte di Castellana 713 Grotte di Frasassi 611 Gruppo del Sella 329 Gubbio 587-90 588 Guggenheim Peggy 359
H Hadrian 38 39 119 181 hammam 767 hang-gliding
Castelluccio 594 Val Badia 340
haute couture 277 hay baths 340 health 903-5 heli-skiing
Courmayeur 252 Milky Way 234
Hemingway Ernest 295 Herculaneum 86 670-2 671 hiking
Alicudi 786 Alpe di Siusi 338 alte vie 316 Amalfi Coast 681 Apuane Alps 520 Aosta 249 Apennines 457 Baunei 869 Cala Gonone 868 Capri 665 Courmayeur 252-3 Dolomites 314-16 Dorgali 867 Elba 531 Gola Su Gorruppu 867-8 itinerary 32 Lipari 780 Madonna di Campiglio 322
325 Maritime Alps 237 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Milky Way 234 Mt Etna 807 Oliena 866 Pantelleria 831
Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie 775-6
Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e Molise 626 627
Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano 693
Parco Nazionale della Majella 624 Parco Regionale della Maremma
297 Isola Bella (Sicily) 792 Isola Caprera 861-2 Isola della Maddalena 861 Isola Madre 297 Isola Maggiore 577 Isola Polvese 577 Isola San Giulio 294 Isola San Pietro 847-8
IND
EX
934 I N D E X ( I - M )
Isola Superiore (Pescatori) 298
Isole Pelagie 822 Isole Pontine 190-1 Isole Tremiti 704-5 Italia in Miniatura 471 itineraries 27-32
J Janiculum 131 jet lag 904 jewellery design 497 Jewish culture 553 809 Jewish ghetto (Rome) 121-3 Jewish history 362-3 Joyce James 407 Julietrsquos House 393
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Julius Caesar 36-7 90 Juventus 233
K kayaking
Courmayeur 252 Elba 531 533 Val di Sole 326 Varallo 257
kite-surfing Palau 861 Sinis Peninsula 852
L la bella figura 61-2 La Fenice 70 La Garfagnana see Garfagnana the La Magdeleine 255 La Morra 240-1 La Rotonda 390-1 La Scala 264 La Sila 748-9 La Spezia 211-13 212 La vita egrave bella 555 Ladin 337 339 Laghetto di Fanghi 782 Laghi di Fusine 423-4 Lago di Albano 188 Lago di Como 299-306 9 Lago di Garda 307-12 803 Lago di Lesina 701 Lago di Lugano 305 Lago di Nemi 188 Lago di Piano 305 Lago di Varano 701 Lago drsquoIseo 306-7 Lago drsquoOrta 294-5 Lago Lario see Lago di Como Lago Maggiore 295-9 Lago Omedeo Circuit 852-3 Lago Trasimeno 576-8 Laguna di Marano 416 Lampedusa Giuseppe Tomasi di 66 Langhirano 457 language 906-11
Levanzo 830-1 Levi Carlo 67 731 734 739-40 Levi Primo 66 Lido the 366 Lignano 417 Liguria 192-220 196 limoncello 77 Lingotto Fiere 227 Lipari 779-81 Lippi Filippino 56 Lippi Filippo 52 57 495 literature 22-4 65-7 Livorno 528-30 529 Locorotondo 714-15 Lombardy 259-312 260 Lorenzetti brothers 52 56 Loreto 606 Lorica 748 Lovere 307 Lucanian Apennines see Appennino
Lucano Lucca 514-19 515 9 Lucera 705-6
M Macerata 611-13 Machiavelli 67 Madonna di Campiglio 322-6 324 Mafia 48 757 761 Majella National Park 85 624-5 majolica ceramics 576 Malcesine 310 Malvasia wine 781 783 Mamoiada 866 mamuthones 866 Manarola 210 Mani Pulite 48 Manotra see Mantua Mantegna Andrea 53 57 Mantero 303
IND
EX
I N D E X ( M ) 935
Mantua 289-93 290 maps 882 Maranello 449-50 Marano Lagunare 416 Maratea 740-1 marble quarries 520 Marcialonga 328 Marciana Marina 533 Marcus Aurelius 39 Marettimo 830-1 Marina del Cantone 680-1 Marina di Camerota 693 Marina di Carrara 520 Marina di Furore 685 Marina di Massa 520 Marina di Sorso 859 Marinetti Filippo Tommaso 58 Maritime Alps 237 Mark Antony (Marcus Antonius) 37 markets
Ballarograve 766 11 Catania 795 Genoa 203 La Pescheria 795 Mercato del Capo 766 Mercato della Vucciria 766
Marsala 823-4 Martello 336-7 Martina Franca 715-17 Martini Simone 52 56 Masaccio 53 57 497 mask making 367 masseria (manor farm) 716 Masua 846 Matera 733-8 12 mattanza 831 847 Matterhorn 255 Mausoleo di Cecilia Metell 138 Maximilian 412 measures 872 see also inside front
cover medical services 904 see also
health Medici family 43 476 492 494-5 Meier Richard 124 Menaggio 305 Merano 333-5 Mercato di Ballarograve 766 11 Messina 787-9 Messina Bridge project 87 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Metaponto 733 metric conversions see inside front
Milan 260-79 266-9 accommodation 271-3 drinking 274-5 entertainment 275-6 festivals 271 food 273-4 gay amp lesbian travellers 276 shopping 277 sights 263-71 tourist information 263 tours 271 travel tofrom 277-8 travel within 278-9
Milazzo 777-8 Milky Way 234-5 Mille Miglia 449 Miramare 411-12 Mission Impossible III 659 Mithraism 130 mobile phones 885 Modena 446-9 447 Modena Cento Ore 449 Modica 815-16 Moena 328 Molise 619 621 625 629-33 630 Moltrasio 304 Molveno 322 323 Mona Lisa 54 Monastery of St Benedict 189 Moncalvo 244 Mondello 773 money 20-1 882-3 see also inside
front cover discount cards Monferrato 244-5 Monreale 773-4 Monselice 386 Montagnana 386 Montalcino 550-1 Monte Bondone 319 Monte Cassino 189 Monte Isola 307 Monte Ortobene 865 Monte Pellegrino 773 Monte Rocchetta 311 Monte Rosa 256 Monte SantrsquoAngelo 702-4 Monte Ursino 216 Montepulciano 551-2 Monterosso 209 Monti del Matese 631 Monti Ferru 852 Monti Sibillini 85 594-5 616-17
Aosta 249 Cala Gonone 868 Courmayeur 252-3 Milky Way 234 Stresa 296 tours 868 Val Badia 340
mountain huts 874 mountaineering 257
Messner Reinhold 331 332 Mozia 825 Mt Etna 806-8 800 Mt Vesuvius 672-3 mud baths 782 831 Muggia 402 412-13 multiculturalism 62-3 Mundi Stupor 41 Munthe Axel 663 Murano 366-7 Murat Joachim 755 Murgia plateau 713-18 737 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto Adige
331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano 779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale 645 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia
751 Museo Nazionale di San Matteo 525 Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo
Massimo alle Terme 128-9 Museum of Glass 366 museums amp galleries
270-1 Galleria drsquoArte Moderna 361 Galleria dellrsquoAccademia (Florshy
ence) 493 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Antica
(Rome) 123 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna
e Contemporanea (Rome) 126
IND
EX
936 I N D E X ( M - N )
museums amp galleries continued Gallerie dellrsquoAccademia ( Venice)
358-9 Gallerie di Palazzo Leoni Montanshy
ari 390 Keats-Shelley Memorial House 124 MAAM (Museo a Cielo Aperto
dellrsquoArchitettura Moderna) 245 MAXXI art gallery 164 164 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Musei di Strada Nuova 197-8 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto
Adige 331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano
779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Naples) 645-6 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Sardinia) 838 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
dellrsquoUmbria 569 Museo Archeologico Paolo Orsi 811 Museo Civico (Siena) 538 Museo Civico (Vicenza)390 Museo Civico Archeologico
(Bologna) 430 Museo Claudio Faina e Civico 597 Museo Correr 357 Museo del Bargello 490 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo della Fondazione Querini
Stampalia 364 Museo della Scultura
Contemporanea 735-6 Museo della Seta 301 Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni
Sarde 865 Museo dellrsquoAra Pacis 124 158 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo dellrsquoOpera Metropolitana
539 Museo di Capodimonte 648 Museo di Roma 121 Museo di San Marco (Florence)
492 Museo Ebraico 363 Museo Ebraico di Roma 122 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Etrusco Guarnacci 548 Museo Fortuny 358
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Museo Nazionale Archeologico ( Taranto) 730
Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia 751
Museo Nazionale Romano Crypta Balbi 120
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Altemps 120-1
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo alle Terme 128-9
Museo Nazionale Romano Terme di Diocleziano 128
Museo Palatino 113 Museo Walser 256 Museum of Glass 366 Padiglione drsquoArte Contemporanea
accommodation 570-1 courses 570 drinking 572 festivals 570 food 571-2 history 565 language courses 570 shopping 573 sights 568-70 tourist information 567 travel tofrom 573-4 travel within 574-5
Perugia Universitagrave per Stranieri 570 Perugina chocolate factory 569-70 Perugino 56 Pesaro 609-11 Pescara 627-8 Pescasseroli 625 626 Peschici 698-700 Pescocostanzo 624-5 Petralia Soprana 775 Petralia Sottana 775 Petrarch 67 386 Phoenician ruins 825 847 phone cards 885 Piacenza 457-9 Piano Renzo 171-2 Piano Battaglia 775 Piazza Barberini 123-4 Piazza dei Miracoli 86 523-5 Piazza del Popolo 124-8 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Piazza della Repubblica 128-32 Piazza di Spagna 124 Piazza Navona 120 Piazza San Marco 355-7 Piazza San Pietro 132 Piazza Venezia 118-19 Piccione 563 Piedmont 192 194 220-45 221 Pienza 551 Pietagrave 133 Pietra di Bismantova 452 Pietrabbondante 632 Pietrapertosa 740 Pietrasanta 521 Pigra 304
Pila 249 pilgrimage 702-3 Pinacoteca di Brera 270 Pinzolo 324-6 Piombi 356 Pirandello Luigi 67 Pisa 521-8 522 Pisano Giovanni 56 539 Pisano Nicola 51 56 524 Pisciotta 693 Pistoia 512-14 513 Pitigliano 553-4 Pitti family 495-6 Pizzo 755 Plan de Corones 341 planning 20-4 see also itineraries
discount cards plants 83-4 Platamona 859 Plateau Rosa 255-6 256 Po Delta 463-4 poetry 67 Policoro 733 Polignano a Mare 712-13 politics 18-9 64-5 Pollara 783 Parco Nazionale del Pollino
(Basilicata) 85 741-2 Parco Nazionale del Pollino (Calabria)
85 743-5 pollution 84 718 878 Pompeii 86 673-6 Ponte di Calatrava 350 Ponza 190-1 pop music 70-1 popes 39-41 90 132 Popolo della Libertagrave 48 population 62-4 Pordenone 417 Porlezza 305 Porto Cervo 862 Porto Conte 857 Porto Ferro 857 Porto Teulada 845 Porto Torres 860 Porto Venere 213-14 Portocannone 633 Portoferraio 531-3 Portofino 206 Positano 682-4 683 Possagno 392 postal services 883-4 Potenza 739 Pozzuoli 657-8 Praia a Mare 745
I N D E X ( P - S ) 939
Praiano 684-5 Processione dei Serpari 624 Procida 669-72 Promontorio del Gargano 696-704 prosciutto 422-3 458 Prosecco 398-9 Provenzano Bernardo 761 public transport 900 Puglia 696-731 699 Pula 844-5 Punta della Dogana 359-60 Punta Helbronner 253 puppet shows 809 Pythagoras 733
Q Quadrilatero drsquoOro 277 Quintana 615
R Radda in Chianti 536 radio 872 rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
Ragusa 816-17 rail passes 895 Rapallo 207-8 Raphael 56 126 134 135 490 495 Ravello 687-8 Ravenna 464-8 465 Ravenna Festival 467 Red Brigades 47 Refounded Communist Party 47 Regata Storica 369 Reggio di Calabria 751-3 752 Reggio Emilia 450-2 451 religion 64 Remus 34 Renaissance art 53-5 56 57 Repubblica di San Marino 473 responsible travel 21-2
resources 22 Ribera Giuseppe de 57 Rimini 468-73 469 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Riola Sardo 852 Riomaggiore 210 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822 Riva 311 Riva del Garda 311 Rivello 740-1 Riviera di Levante 205-14
Riviera di Ponente 215-20 road distance chart 899 Robbia Andrea della 57 Rocca Meli Lupi 456 Rocca Sanvitale 456 rock carvings 830 rock-climbing see climbing Roghudi 751 Roman Baths of Caracalla 70 Roman Empire 34-6 40 35 Roman Forum 114 Rome 89-191 95-110
accommodation 144-50 children travel with 139 clubbing 168-71 cooking 140-2 courses 140-2 discount cards 111 drinking 165-8 entertainment 171-2 festivals 143-4 food 150-65 gay amp lesbian travellers 169 history 90 shopping 172-4 sights 112-39 tourist information 94-111 travel tofrom 174-5 travel within 175-9 walking tours 140 143 141
S Sabaudia 190 Sabbioneta 293 Sacile 402 417-18 Saepinum 630-1 sailing 207 812 861 saints 915 see also individual saints Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci (Chamber
of the Council of 10) 356 salami 594 Salentine Peninsula see Penisola
Salentina Salerno 689-92 689 Salina 783-4 Saline di Trapani 824-5 Salograve 309 Saluzzo 236-8 San Benedetto Po 293 San Carlo Borromeo 298
San Costantino Albanese 741-2 San Daniele del Friuli 402 422-3 San Domino 704 San Francesco di Paola 745 San Fruttuoso 205-6 San Gimignano 544-7 545 San Giorgio 398 San Giorgio Maggiore 365-6 San Giovanni 129-30 San Giovanni in Fiore 748 San Giovanni Rotondo 703 San Marino 473-4 473 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 San Martino in Pensilis 633 San Michele 366 San Nicola 704 San Pantaleo 824 862-3 San Paolo Albanese 741-2 San Pietro in Cariano 397 San Polo 360-1 San Remo 217-19 218 San Siro stadium 276 San Terenzo 214 Sansepolcro 558 Santa Caterina di Pittinuri 852 Santa Caterina di Siena 540 Santa Cecilia 131 Santa Cristina 337-8 Santa Croce 360-1 Santa Margherita 206-7 Santa Maria di Leuca 728 Santa Maria Navarrese 870 Santa Severina 749 Santa Teresa di Gallura 860-1 SantrsquoAgata sui due Golfi 680 SantrsquoAmbrogio di Valpolicella 398 SantrsquoAntioco 847-8 SantrsquoArcangelo 742 Santo Stefano drsquoAveto 208 Santuario della Madonna del Terzito
783 Santuario di San Michele 703 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri 851 Sardinia 184 833-70 834 Sarnano 618 Sarnico 306 Sarto Andrea del 56 Sarzana 214 Sassari 857-9 858 sassi 733 735-6 737 Sauris di Sopra 424 Saviano Roberto 67 68 Savona 215-16 Savonarola Girolamo 42 Scala Santa 129
Signorelli Luca 56 Sila National Park 85 silk 299 303 Sinis Peninsula 851-2 Sirmione 307 308-9 Sistine Chapel 135-6 skiing see also cross-country skiing
Abruzzo 625 Alta Badia 339 340 Aosta 249
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Bormio 336 Breuil-Cervinia 255-6 Camigliatello Silano 748 Campitello Matese 625 631 Campo di Giove 625 Campo Felice 625 Campo Imperatore 625 Cermis ski area 327 Champoluc 256 Cogne 254 Courmayeur 252 Dolomites 314 798 itinerary 32 Lecco 306 Lorica 748 Madonna di Campiglio 322 324-5 Merano 334-5 Milky Way 234 Molise 625 Ovindoli 625 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Passo della Stelvio 336 Pescasseroli 625 Pescocostanzo 625 Piano Battaglia 775 Plan de Corones 341 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 Sella Ronda 329 Stresa 296 Tarvisio 423 Val di Fassa 328 Val di Solda 336 Val Gardena 337 Valle drsquoAosta 247 Valtournenche 256
Spello 586-7 Sperlonga 190 Spilimbergo 418 Spoleto 590-3 591 Spoleto Festival see Festival dei Due
Mondi Spormaggiore 322 sport 71-2 squares see piazza St Benedict 189 St Catherine of Siena 119 St Francis of Assisi 580 582 583 584 St Michael the Archangel 702-3 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 St Peterrsquos Square 132 St Ubaldo 588 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232 Star Wars 659 Steinbeck John 682 Stelvio National Park 85 335-7 Stintino 860 stone towers 851 Strada del Vino Costa degli Etruschi 531 Stradivari Antonio 289 Strait of Messina bridge 789 strawberries 336 Strawberry Festival 336 Stresa 295-7 296 Stromboli 785-6 Studi di Scultura Carlo Nicoli 520 Stupor Mundi see Frederick I
tickets 276 Teatro Greco 791 Teatro La Fenice 357 378 Teatro Olimpico 390 Teatro Rossini 610-11 Teatro San Carlo 70 647 telephone services 884-5 television 62 Tellaro 214 Tempietto 131 163 Tempio di Antas 846 Tempio Malatestiano 470 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Caracalla 130 Terme di Diocleziano 128 Termini 126-9 Termoli 632-3 Terranova di Pollino 742 Tharros 851 The Last Supper 86 265 theatre 71 theft 878 theme parks 471 Theodosius I the Great 39 thermal springs
Colli Eugane 386 Preacute-St-Didier 253 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Rabbi 327 Terme di Saturnia 553 Terme Merano 334
Thomes 867 Tiberius 38 time 885 910 Tintoretto 57 367 tipping 883 Tirolo 335 Tiscali 868 Titian 57 118 Tivoli 181-2 Tizzano Val Parma 457 Todi 578-80 Tolmezzo 424 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes 867 Tomba di Giulietta (Julietrsquos Tomb) 393 Tommaso Filippo 58 Torbole 310-11
Torcello 367 Torgiano 575-6 Torino see Turin Torre Annunziata 86 Torre Branca 265 Torre Civica 237 Torre drsquoArnolfo 486 Torre degli Asinelli 431 Torre del Porticciolo 857 Torre delle Milizie 116 Torre dellrsquoElefante 838 Torre dellrsquoOrologio 357 Torre di Mariano II 849 Torre di San Pancrazio 838 Torre Pendente 523 161 Torre Porta a Terra 854 Torre Troyana o DellrsquoOrologio 244 Tortoligrave 870 Tortora 745 Toula Glacier 252 Tour du Mont Blanc 253 tourist information 885-6 tours
U Uccello Paolo 57 Udine 418-22 420 Uffizi 487-90 491 Ultra Trail Tour du Mont Blanc 252 Umbria 560-99 564 Umbria Jazz 570 Under the Tuscan Sun 558 underground tours 317 649
IND
EX
V
IND
EX
942 I N D E X ( U - W )
Urbino 606-9 607 Ururi 633 Ustica 774 UTMB 252
vaccinations 903 Val Badia 339-41 Val drsquoAveto 208 Val di Fassa 328-9 Val di Fiemme 327 Val di Genova 325 Val di Gressoney 256-8 Val di Magra 214 Val di Non 326 Val di Rabbi 326-7 Val di Solda 336 Val di Sole 326 Val Gardena 337-8 Val Grande National Park 85 Val Martello 336-7 Val Pusteria 341-2 Valcamonica rock drawings 86 Valentinian 39 Valle drsquoAosta 192 194 245-58 246 Valle drsquoAyas 256-8 Valle dei Templi 820 Valle di Chisone 234 Valle di Susa 234 Vallee Blanche 252 Valley of the Temples 820 Vallunga 337 Valnerina the 594-5 Valpolicella 397-8 Valsesia 256-8 802 Valtellina 285 Valtournenche 255-6 Vaneze di Monte 319 vaporetto travel 380-1 Varallo 256 257 Varenna 306 Vasari Giorgio 55 57 Vasograven 319 Vasto 629 Vatican City 131-6 Vatican Museums 133-6 Velia 693 Veneto the 343-400 346 Venice 345-81 348-9 352-3
accommodation 370-3 cafes 375
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
children travel with 369 discount cards 351 drinking 376-7 entertainment 377-8 festivals 369 food 373-6 history 345-7 itineraries 347 shopping 378 379 sights 350-67 tourist information 350 travel tofrom 378-80 travel within 380-1
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Venosa 738-9 Ventimiglia 219-20 Ventotene 190-1 Verbania 298 Vercelli 245 Verdi Giuseppe 457 Verdi Country 456-7 Vernazza 209 Verona 392-7 394 Veronese Paolo 57 Versace Gianni 304 Vespasian 38 Vesuvio National Park 85 Vezio 306 Via Appia Antica 136-9 Via Ferrata delle Bocchette 322 Vibo Valentia 755 Vicenza 388-92 389 vie cave 554 vie ferrate 322 341 Vieste 701-2 701 Villa Adriana 181 Villa Balbianello 304 Villa Borghese 125-6 Villa Capra 390-1 Villa Carlotta 305 Villa Cipressi 306 Villa drsquoEste 181-2 Villa Floridiana 647 Villa Foscari 381 Villa Foscarini Rossi 382 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Kunkler 386 Villa Manin 422 Villa Maseacuter 392 Villa Monastero 306 Villa Pisani Nazionale 381-2 Villa Quintili 138 villa rentals 874-5 Villa Romana del Casale 818
Villa Rufolo 688 Villa Valmarana lsquoai Nanirsquo 390 Villa Welsperg 327 Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari 381 Villasimius 844 vineyards 442
Aosta 249 Barolo 240-1 Greve in Chianti 534 La Morra 240 Valpolicella 398
violins 289 Virgil 66 visas 887-8 see also passports Visconti family 43 Viterbo 184-7 185 Vittoriale degli Italiani il 310 volcanoes 82
waterfalls 311 616 water sports 72 weather 20 876-7 websites see internet resources weights 872 see inside front cover whale-watching 201 Whitaker Joseph 824-5 white-water rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
wildlife 81-4 see also individual animals amp plants
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
canoeing continued Dorgali 867 Oliena 866 Palau 861 Parco Regionale della Maremma
553 Stintino 860 Varallo 257
Canolo 750 Canova Antonio 58 125 canyoning
Courmayeur 252 Val di Sole 326
capers 783 Capitoline Hill 116-18 Capitoline Museums 50 117 Capo Caccia 857 Capo Carbonara 844 Capo Ferrato 844 Capo Malfatano 845 Capo Milazzo 778 Capo Vaticano 754 Capoliveri 533 Cappella degli Scrovegni 383-5 Cappella di Monte Siepi 544 Cappella Palatina 766 Capella Sistina 135-6 Caprai 704 Capri 660-7 661 Capri Town 662-3 663 car travel
insurance 898 tofrom Italy 893 894 within Italy 897-9
Caracci Annibale 55-6 57 Caravaggio Michelangelo Merisi da
marble 520 Casa delle Vestali (House of the Vestal
Virgins) 115 Casa di Giulietta (Julietrsquos House) 393 Casa Natale di Giuseppe Verdi 457 Casale Monferrato 244 Cascata del Varone 311 Caserta 659
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Casinograve di Venezia 377 Castel del Monte 708 Castel Gandolfo 188 Castel Nuovo 647 Castel SantrsquoAngelo 136 Castel SantrsquoElmo 646-7 Castel Savoia 256 Castel Tirolo 334 Castel Trauttmansdorff 334 Castelbuono 775 CastellrsquoArquato 459 Castelli Romani 187-9 Castellina 535-6 Castello 363-5 Castello Bardi 457 Castello del Buonconsiglio 317 Castello di Duino 412 Castello di Feacutenis 251 Castello di Miramare 411-12 Castello di Montefioralle 534 Castello di Rivoli 226-7 Castello di Sainte-Pierre 251 Castello di San Giusto 404 Castello di Sarre 251 Castello di Verrazzano 534 Castello di Verregraves 251 Castello drsquoIssogne 251 Castello Estense 460-1 Castello Sforzesco amp Parco Sempione
Catacombe dei Cappuccini 767 Catacombe di San Gennaro 648-9 Catacombs of San Callisto 137 Catacombs of San Domitilla 137 Catacombs of San Sebastiano 137
Catania 793-806 794 Catanzaro 750 cathedrals
Amalfi 685 Ancona 603 Aosta 248-9 Arezzo 555-6 Bari 710 Cagliari 838 Catania 795 Cefalugrave 776 Como 299-301
Cavalese 327 Cavallini Pietro 56 Cave di Colonnata 520 Cave di Fantiscritti 520 Cave di Torano 520 Cavedago 322 caves
Filicudi 786 Grotta Azzurra 664 Grotta de Su Mannau 846 Grotta del Bue Marino 868 Grotta del Genoves 830
IND
EX I N D E X ( C ) 929
Grotta dello Smeraldo 686 Grotta di Nettuno 857 Grotta di San Giovanni 846 Grotta Gigante 413 Grotte dellrsquoAngelo Pertosa 694 Grotte di Castelcivita 694 Grotte di Castellana 713 Grotte di Frasassi 611 Orvieto 597 Polignano a Mare 713 San Domino 704
Cavour Count Camillo Benso di 44 Cefalugrave 776-7 Celio 129-30 cell phones 885 ceramics 576 Cernobbio 304 Certosa di Pavia 279-80 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Certosa di San Martino 646 Cerveteri 182-3 Champoluc 256 chariot races 633 cheese tasting 249 Cherasco 239-40 Chia 845 Chianti 533-6 Chiesa del Gesugrave 119 Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore 365 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli
(Rome) 125 Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie 265 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Aracoeli 117 Chieti 628-9 children travel with 875-6
amusement parks 309 471 aquariums 200 331 648 Florence 497-8 health 905 language 911 Rome 139 Venice 369 zoos 297 626
Chirico Giorgio de 58 chocolate 231 569-70 Christ Stopped at Eboli 731 734 739 Christian Democrats 46 Christianity 39-41 churches see also cathedrals
Basilica di San Clemente 129-30 Basilica di San Francesco (Assisi)
580-3 Basilica di San Frediano 517 Basilica di San Giovanni in
Laterano 129
Basilica di San Giulio 294 Basilica di San Giusto 404 Basilica di San Lorenzo 492 Basilica di San Marco (Rome) 118 Basilica di San Marco ( Venice)
355-6 9 Basilica di San Nicola 710 Basilica di San Petronio 428 Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli
126-7 Basilica di San Saturnino 839 Basilica di San Vitale 465 Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore 395 Basilica di Santa Caterina
drsquoAlessandria 726 Basilica di Santa Cecilia in
Trastevere 131 Basilica di Santa Croce (Florence)
493-4 160 Basilica di Santa Croce (Lecce) 723 Basilica di Santa Maria del Carmine
497 Basilica di Santa Maria in
Trastevere 130 Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
127-8 Basilica di Santa Maria Novella 491 Basilica di SantrsquoAbbondio 301 Basilica di SantrsquoAndrea 291 Basilica di SantrsquoAntonio 385-6 Basilica di SantrsquoApollinare in
Classe 466 Basilica di SantrsquoApollinare Nuovo
466 Basilica di Santo Spirito 497 Basilica di Superga 228 Chiesa degli Eremitani 385 Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis 136 Chiesa del Gesugrave 119 Chiesa della Madonna dellrsquoOrto
363 Chiesa della Santa Trigravenita 491 Chiesa di Piedigrotta 755 Chiesa di San Francesco (Arezzo)
555 Chiesa di San Francesco
(Sorrento) 677 Chiesa di San Francesco della
Vigna 364 Chiesa di San Francesco di Paola
647 Chiesa di San Giorgio 815 Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
365 Chiesa di San Michele in Foro 516
Chiesa di San Miniato al Monte 496
Chiesa di San Polo 361 Chiesa di San Zaccaria 364-5 Chiesa di Santa Corona 390 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli
(Rome) 125 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli
(Venice) 363 Chiesa di Santa Maria del Giglio
358 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute
359 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Spina
526 Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie
265 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Aracoeli
117 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin
122 Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra
Minerva 119 Chiesa di SantrsquoAnastasia 395 Chiesa di Santo Stefano 358 Chiesa di SantrsquoOrso 249 Chiesa e Battistero dei SS Giovanni
e Reparata 516 Chiesa Russa Ortodossia 217 Convent of the Minor Capuchin
Friars 703 Duomo di San Giovanni (Turin) 226 Gesuati 360 Madonna delle Virtugrave and San
Nicola del Greci 735 San Gimignano Basilica 544 Santa Caterina del Sasso 298 Santuario dellrsquoAnnunziata 826 Santuario di Nostra Signora di
Bonaria 839 Santuario di San Francesco di
Paola 745 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 Zanipolo 363-4
cicheti 373 cicloturismo (bicycle tourism) 433 Cilento e Vallo di Diano National Park
85 693-4 cinema 23 68-9 127 637 759 cinghiale 563 Cinque Terre 208-11 Cinque Terre National Park 85 Circeo National Park 82 85 Circo di Massenzio 137-8 Circo Massimo 114
IND
EX
IN
DEX
930 I N D E X ( C - D )
Cisternino 715 Civica Galleria drsquoArte Moderna 270-1 Cividale del Friuli 422 Civita 743 Civitavecchia 184 Civitella Alfedena 626 classical music 70 Claudius 38 climate 20 876-7 climate change 892 climbing 804
Altipiano della Paganella 322-3 Courmayeur 252-3 Domusnovas 846 Milky Way 234 Oliena 866 Sardinia 838 selvaggio blu 800 Sinis Peninsula 852 vie ferrate 341
Clooney George 304 Cocullo 624 Coddu Ecchju 863 coffee 76 410 439 Cogne 254 Colli Albani see Castelli Romani Colli Euganei 386 Colonna di Traiano ( Trajanrsquos Column)
49 Colosseum 112 Columbus Christopher 200 Comacchio 464 comics 66 communism 47 Como 299-302 300 Como Lake see Lago di Como Condofuri 751 Conegliano 398-9 confetti 623 Constantine I 39 consulates 879-80 contemporary art 272 Convent of the Minor Capuchin
Friars 703 cooking see food Coppola Francis Ford 733 Corniglia 209-10 Corricella 669 Cortina drsquoAmpezzo 400 Cortona 558-9 Corvara 339 340
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Cosenza 745-8 746 Costa del Sud 845 Costa Rei 844 Costa Smeralda 862-3 Costa Verde 848 Costiera Cilentana 692-3 costs 20-1 see also inside front
language 909-11 emigration 63 Emilia-Romagna 425-73 429 emperors 36-9 endangered species 82-8 Enna 817-18 Ente Lirico Arena di Verona 70 7 environmental issues 84-8 Ercolano 670-2 Erice 828-9 Esquilino (Esquiline) 126-9 Estate Romana 144 172 Este 386 Etruscan history 33-4 Etruscan sites 182-3 553-4 Euganean Hills 386 Eugubian Tablets 587 EUR 138-9 138 Eurochocolate 570 events 25-6 exchange rates see inside front cover
F Faenza 468 Fai della Paganella 322 farmstays 579 Farnese collection 646
Farro 563 fascism 44-6 fashion 173 272 277
courses 497 Fattoria di Celle 514 Favignana 830-1 Fellini Federico 68-9 127 Ferdinando I 494-5 Ferrara 459-63 460 Ferrari 449 ferries
Aeolian Islands 778-9 Bari 711-12 Brindisi 720-1 Elba 531 Lago Maggiore Express 295 Livorno 530 Messina 788-9 Sardinia 184 837 Sicily 757-9 763 tofrom Italy 896 within Italy 897
Festa del Redentore 26 Festa di San Marco 369 Festival dei Due Mondi 592 festivals 25-6 see also individual cities
Biennale di Venezia 369 Carnevale 25 369 chariot races 633 chilli-eating competition 745 Estate Romana 144 172 Eurochocolate 570 Festa del Redentore 26 Festa di San Marco 369 Festa di San Nicola 710 Festival dei Due Mondi 592 food 77-8 International Festival of Undershy
water Activities 774 Le Feste di Pasqua 730 Processione dei Serpari 624 Quintana 615 Ravenna Festival 467 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Sagra del Pesce 205 Salone Internazionale del Gusto
228 Settimana Santa 25 678 Strawberry Festival 336 Turin Book Fair 228 Umbria Jazz 570 Venice International Film
Festival 26 369 Fiabilandia 471 Fiesole 510-12
IND
EX
IN
DEX
932 I N D E X ( F - G )
Filicudi 786-7 film 23 68-9 127 637 759
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Fiumicello 740 Florence 476-510 480-1 484-5 488
accommodation 498-501 cafes 506 children travel with 497-8 entertainment 507-8 festivals 498 food 501-5 gelaterie 505 history 476 itineraries 479 shopping 508-9 sights 480-97 tourist information 479-80 tours 498 travel tofrom 509 travel within 510
Foci del Po 463 Foggia 705 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 fontina 250 food 73-80 880
football 71-2 233 AC Milan 276 corruption 233 Inter Milan 276 Juventus 233 San Siro stadium 276 Stadio Olimpico (Rome) 172 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232
Foresta Umbra 698 Foreste Casentinesi Monte Falterona e
Campigna National Park 85 Formula One 276 Forni di Sopra 424 Fortuny Tessuti Artistici 365 Forza Italia 48 Fossa delle Felci 783 Fossa di Vulcano 781-2 Frarsquo Angelico 52 57 492 Francesca Piero della 57 558 Franciacorta 307 Franciscan sites 583-4 Franco-Austrian War 44 Frascati 188 Frederick I (Barbarossa) Emperor 41-2 Frederick II 705 706 Friuli Venezia Giulia 401-24 404 Fuksas Massimiliano 139 funiculars see cable cars Funtanamare 846 Futurism 58
G Gaius (Caligula) 37 38 Galatina 726 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna e
358-9 galleries see museums amp galleries Gallipoli 728-9 7 Gambarie 751 garbage crisis 48 84 gardens see parks amp gardens Garfagnana the 519 Gargagnano 398 Gargano National Park 85 696-8 Garibaldi Giuseppe 44 823 861
gay travellers 880 Bologna 434 Milan 276 Rome 169
gelato 151 505 gelato-making 678 Gennargentu e Golfo di Orosei
Gentileschi Artemesia 57 490 geography 81 geology 81 Gerace 750 Ghiberti Lorenzo 57 Ghirlandaio Domenico 56 Gianicolo 131 Giara di Gesturi 851 Giardino di Bardini 496 Giardino di Boboli 496 Giotto 51 56 383-5 Giudecca 365 Giulie Alps 423 gladiator school 142 Gola Su Gorruppu 867-8 Golden Quad 277 Gole dellrsquoAlcagraventara 792 golf 234 Golfo Aranci 864 Golfo di Castellammare 829-30 Golfo di Orosei 868-9 Gomorra 67 68 gondolas 367-8 Gorizia 413-14 Gorruppu Gorge see Gola Su
Gorruppu Grado 416 graffiti 866 Gran Paradiso National Park 85
254-5 804 Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga
National Park 85 620 Grand Canal 350-5 grappa 77 Gravedona 305 Gressoney-La-Triniteacute 256 Gressoney-St-Jean 256
I N D E X ( G - I ) 933
Greve in Chianti 534-5 Grotta Azzurra 664 Grotta de Su Mannau 846 Grotta del Bue Marino 868 Grotta del Genoves 830 Grotta dello Smeraldo 686 Grotta di San Giovanni 846 Grotta Gigante 413 Grottaferrata 188 Grotte di Castellana 713 Grotte di Frasassi 611 Gruppo del Sella 329 Gubbio 587-90 588 Guggenheim Peggy 359
H Hadrian 38 39 119 181 hammam 767 hang-gliding
Castelluccio 594 Val Badia 340
haute couture 277 hay baths 340 health 903-5 heli-skiing
Courmayeur 252 Milky Way 234
Hemingway Ernest 295 Herculaneum 86 670-2 671 hiking
Alicudi 786 Alpe di Siusi 338 alte vie 316 Amalfi Coast 681 Apuane Alps 520 Aosta 249 Apennines 457 Baunei 869 Cala Gonone 868 Capri 665 Courmayeur 252-3 Dolomites 314-16 Dorgali 867 Elba 531 Gola Su Gorruppu 867-8 itinerary 32 Lipari 780 Madonna di Campiglio 322
325 Maritime Alps 237 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Milky Way 234 Mt Etna 807 Oliena 866 Pantelleria 831
Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie 775-6
Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e Molise 626 627
Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano 693
Parco Nazionale della Majella 624 Parco Regionale della Maremma
297 Isola Bella (Sicily) 792 Isola Caprera 861-2 Isola della Maddalena 861 Isola Madre 297 Isola Maggiore 577 Isola Polvese 577 Isola San Giulio 294 Isola San Pietro 847-8
IND
EX
934 I N D E X ( I - M )
Isola Superiore (Pescatori) 298
Isole Pelagie 822 Isole Pontine 190-1 Isole Tremiti 704-5 Italia in Miniatura 471 itineraries 27-32
J Janiculum 131 jet lag 904 jewellery design 497 Jewish culture 553 809 Jewish ghetto (Rome) 121-3 Jewish history 362-3 Joyce James 407 Julietrsquos House 393
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Julius Caesar 36-7 90 Juventus 233
K kayaking
Courmayeur 252 Elba 531 533 Val di Sole 326 Varallo 257
kite-surfing Palau 861 Sinis Peninsula 852
L la bella figura 61-2 La Fenice 70 La Garfagnana see Garfagnana the La Magdeleine 255 La Morra 240-1 La Rotonda 390-1 La Scala 264 La Sila 748-9 La Spezia 211-13 212 La vita egrave bella 555 Ladin 337 339 Laghetto di Fanghi 782 Laghi di Fusine 423-4 Lago di Albano 188 Lago di Como 299-306 9 Lago di Garda 307-12 803 Lago di Lesina 701 Lago di Lugano 305 Lago di Nemi 188 Lago di Piano 305 Lago di Varano 701 Lago drsquoIseo 306-7 Lago drsquoOrta 294-5 Lago Lario see Lago di Como Lago Maggiore 295-9 Lago Omedeo Circuit 852-3 Lago Trasimeno 576-8 Laguna di Marano 416 Lampedusa Giuseppe Tomasi di 66 Langhirano 457 language 906-11
Levanzo 830-1 Levi Carlo 67 731 734 739-40 Levi Primo 66 Lido the 366 Lignano 417 Liguria 192-220 196 limoncello 77 Lingotto Fiere 227 Lipari 779-81 Lippi Filippino 56 Lippi Filippo 52 57 495 literature 22-4 65-7 Livorno 528-30 529 Locorotondo 714-15 Lombardy 259-312 260 Lorenzetti brothers 52 56 Loreto 606 Lorica 748 Lovere 307 Lucanian Apennines see Appennino
Lucano Lucca 514-19 515 9 Lucera 705-6
M Macerata 611-13 Machiavelli 67 Madonna di Campiglio 322-6 324 Mafia 48 757 761 Majella National Park 85 624-5 majolica ceramics 576 Malcesine 310 Malvasia wine 781 783 Mamoiada 866 mamuthones 866 Manarola 210 Mani Pulite 48 Manotra see Mantua Mantegna Andrea 53 57 Mantero 303
IND
EX
I N D E X ( M ) 935
Mantua 289-93 290 maps 882 Maranello 449-50 Marano Lagunare 416 Maratea 740-1 marble quarries 520 Marcialonga 328 Marciana Marina 533 Marcus Aurelius 39 Marettimo 830-1 Marina del Cantone 680-1 Marina di Camerota 693 Marina di Carrara 520 Marina di Furore 685 Marina di Massa 520 Marina di Sorso 859 Marinetti Filippo Tommaso 58 Maritime Alps 237 Mark Antony (Marcus Antonius) 37 markets
Ballarograve 766 11 Catania 795 Genoa 203 La Pescheria 795 Mercato del Capo 766 Mercato della Vucciria 766
Marsala 823-4 Martello 336-7 Martina Franca 715-17 Martini Simone 52 56 Masaccio 53 57 497 mask making 367 masseria (manor farm) 716 Masua 846 Matera 733-8 12 mattanza 831 847 Matterhorn 255 Mausoleo di Cecilia Metell 138 Maximilian 412 measures 872 see also inside front
cover medical services 904 see also
health Medici family 43 476 492 494-5 Meier Richard 124 Menaggio 305 Merano 333-5 Mercato di Ballarograve 766 11 Messina 787-9 Messina Bridge project 87 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Metaponto 733 metric conversions see inside front
Milan 260-79 266-9 accommodation 271-3 drinking 274-5 entertainment 275-6 festivals 271 food 273-4 gay amp lesbian travellers 276 shopping 277 sights 263-71 tourist information 263 tours 271 travel tofrom 277-8 travel within 278-9
Milazzo 777-8 Milky Way 234-5 Mille Miglia 449 Miramare 411-12 Mission Impossible III 659 Mithraism 130 mobile phones 885 Modena 446-9 447 Modena Cento Ore 449 Modica 815-16 Moena 328 Molise 619 621 625 629-33 630 Moltrasio 304 Molveno 322 323 Mona Lisa 54 Monastery of St Benedict 189 Moncalvo 244 Mondello 773 money 20-1 882-3 see also inside
front cover discount cards Monferrato 244-5 Monreale 773-4 Monselice 386 Montagnana 386 Montalcino 550-1 Monte Bondone 319 Monte Cassino 189 Monte Isola 307 Monte Ortobene 865 Monte Pellegrino 773 Monte Rocchetta 311 Monte Rosa 256 Monte SantrsquoAngelo 702-4 Monte Ursino 216 Montepulciano 551-2 Monterosso 209 Monti del Matese 631 Monti Ferru 852 Monti Sibillini 85 594-5 616-17
Aosta 249 Cala Gonone 868 Courmayeur 252-3 Milky Way 234 Stresa 296 tours 868 Val Badia 340
mountain huts 874 mountaineering 257
Messner Reinhold 331 332 Mozia 825 Mt Etna 806-8 800 Mt Vesuvius 672-3 mud baths 782 831 Muggia 402 412-13 multiculturalism 62-3 Mundi Stupor 41 Munthe Axel 663 Murano 366-7 Murat Joachim 755 Murgia plateau 713-18 737 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto Adige
331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano 779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale 645 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia
751 Museo Nazionale di San Matteo 525 Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo
Massimo alle Terme 128-9 Museum of Glass 366 museums amp galleries
270-1 Galleria drsquoArte Moderna 361 Galleria dellrsquoAccademia (Florshy
ence) 493 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Antica
(Rome) 123 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna
e Contemporanea (Rome) 126
IND
EX
936 I N D E X ( M - N )
museums amp galleries continued Gallerie dellrsquoAccademia ( Venice)
358-9 Gallerie di Palazzo Leoni Montanshy
ari 390 Keats-Shelley Memorial House 124 MAAM (Museo a Cielo Aperto
dellrsquoArchitettura Moderna) 245 MAXXI art gallery 164 164 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Musei di Strada Nuova 197-8 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto
Adige 331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano
779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Naples) 645-6 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Sardinia) 838 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
dellrsquoUmbria 569 Museo Archeologico Paolo Orsi 811 Museo Civico (Siena) 538 Museo Civico (Vicenza)390 Museo Civico Archeologico
(Bologna) 430 Museo Claudio Faina e Civico 597 Museo Correr 357 Museo del Bargello 490 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo della Fondazione Querini
Stampalia 364 Museo della Scultura
Contemporanea 735-6 Museo della Seta 301 Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni
Sarde 865 Museo dellrsquoAra Pacis 124 158 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo dellrsquoOpera Metropolitana
539 Museo di Capodimonte 648 Museo di Roma 121 Museo di San Marco (Florence)
492 Museo Ebraico 363 Museo Ebraico di Roma 122 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Etrusco Guarnacci 548 Museo Fortuny 358
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Museo Nazionale Archeologico ( Taranto) 730
Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia 751
Museo Nazionale Romano Crypta Balbi 120
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Altemps 120-1
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo alle Terme 128-9
Museo Nazionale Romano Terme di Diocleziano 128
Museo Palatino 113 Museo Walser 256 Museum of Glass 366 Padiglione drsquoArte Contemporanea
accommodation 570-1 courses 570 drinking 572 festivals 570 food 571-2 history 565 language courses 570 shopping 573 sights 568-70 tourist information 567 travel tofrom 573-4 travel within 574-5
Perugia Universitagrave per Stranieri 570 Perugina chocolate factory 569-70 Perugino 56 Pesaro 609-11 Pescara 627-8 Pescasseroli 625 626 Peschici 698-700 Pescocostanzo 624-5 Petralia Soprana 775 Petralia Sottana 775 Petrarch 67 386 Phoenician ruins 825 847 phone cards 885 Piacenza 457-9 Piano Renzo 171-2 Piano Battaglia 775 Piazza Barberini 123-4 Piazza dei Miracoli 86 523-5 Piazza del Popolo 124-8 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Piazza della Repubblica 128-32 Piazza di Spagna 124 Piazza Navona 120 Piazza San Marco 355-7 Piazza San Pietro 132 Piazza Venezia 118-19 Piccione 563 Piedmont 192 194 220-45 221 Pienza 551 Pietagrave 133 Pietra di Bismantova 452 Pietrabbondante 632 Pietrapertosa 740 Pietrasanta 521 Pigra 304
Pila 249 pilgrimage 702-3 Pinacoteca di Brera 270 Pinzolo 324-6 Piombi 356 Pirandello Luigi 67 Pisa 521-8 522 Pisano Giovanni 56 539 Pisano Nicola 51 56 524 Pisciotta 693 Pistoia 512-14 513 Pitigliano 553-4 Pitti family 495-6 Pizzo 755 Plan de Corones 341 planning 20-4 see also itineraries
discount cards plants 83-4 Platamona 859 Plateau Rosa 255-6 256 Po Delta 463-4 poetry 67 Policoro 733 Polignano a Mare 712-13 politics 18-9 64-5 Pollara 783 Parco Nazionale del Pollino
(Basilicata) 85 741-2 Parco Nazionale del Pollino (Calabria)
85 743-5 pollution 84 718 878 Pompeii 86 673-6 Ponte di Calatrava 350 Ponza 190-1 pop music 70-1 popes 39-41 90 132 Popolo della Libertagrave 48 population 62-4 Pordenone 417 Porlezza 305 Porto Cervo 862 Porto Conte 857 Porto Ferro 857 Porto Teulada 845 Porto Torres 860 Porto Venere 213-14 Portocannone 633 Portoferraio 531-3 Portofino 206 Positano 682-4 683 Possagno 392 postal services 883-4 Potenza 739 Pozzuoli 657-8 Praia a Mare 745
I N D E X ( P - S ) 939
Praiano 684-5 Processione dei Serpari 624 Procida 669-72 Promontorio del Gargano 696-704 prosciutto 422-3 458 Prosecco 398-9 Provenzano Bernardo 761 public transport 900 Puglia 696-731 699 Pula 844-5 Punta della Dogana 359-60 Punta Helbronner 253 puppet shows 809 Pythagoras 733
Q Quadrilatero drsquoOro 277 Quintana 615
R Radda in Chianti 536 radio 872 rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
Ragusa 816-17 rail passes 895 Rapallo 207-8 Raphael 56 126 134 135 490 495 Ravello 687-8 Ravenna 464-8 465 Ravenna Festival 467 Red Brigades 47 Refounded Communist Party 47 Regata Storica 369 Reggio di Calabria 751-3 752 Reggio Emilia 450-2 451 religion 64 Remus 34 Renaissance art 53-5 56 57 Repubblica di San Marino 473 responsible travel 21-2
resources 22 Ribera Giuseppe de 57 Rimini 468-73 469 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Riola Sardo 852 Riomaggiore 210 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822 Riva 311 Riva del Garda 311 Rivello 740-1 Riviera di Levante 205-14
Riviera di Ponente 215-20 road distance chart 899 Robbia Andrea della 57 Rocca Meli Lupi 456 Rocca Sanvitale 456 rock carvings 830 rock-climbing see climbing Roghudi 751 Roman Baths of Caracalla 70 Roman Empire 34-6 40 35 Roman Forum 114 Rome 89-191 95-110
accommodation 144-50 children travel with 139 clubbing 168-71 cooking 140-2 courses 140-2 discount cards 111 drinking 165-8 entertainment 171-2 festivals 143-4 food 150-65 gay amp lesbian travellers 169 history 90 shopping 172-4 sights 112-39 tourist information 94-111 travel tofrom 174-5 travel within 175-9 walking tours 140 143 141
S Sabaudia 190 Sabbioneta 293 Sacile 402 417-18 Saepinum 630-1 sailing 207 812 861 saints 915 see also individual saints Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci (Chamber
of the Council of 10) 356 salami 594 Salentine Peninsula see Penisola
Salentina Salerno 689-92 689 Salina 783-4 Saline di Trapani 824-5 Salograve 309 Saluzzo 236-8 San Benedetto Po 293 San Carlo Borromeo 298
San Costantino Albanese 741-2 San Daniele del Friuli 402 422-3 San Domino 704 San Francesco di Paola 745 San Fruttuoso 205-6 San Gimignano 544-7 545 San Giorgio 398 San Giorgio Maggiore 365-6 San Giovanni 129-30 San Giovanni in Fiore 748 San Giovanni Rotondo 703 San Marino 473-4 473 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 San Martino in Pensilis 633 San Michele 366 San Nicola 704 San Pantaleo 824 862-3 San Paolo Albanese 741-2 San Pietro in Cariano 397 San Polo 360-1 San Remo 217-19 218 San Siro stadium 276 San Terenzo 214 Sansepolcro 558 Santa Caterina di Pittinuri 852 Santa Caterina di Siena 540 Santa Cecilia 131 Santa Cristina 337-8 Santa Croce 360-1 Santa Margherita 206-7 Santa Maria di Leuca 728 Santa Maria Navarrese 870 Santa Severina 749 Santa Teresa di Gallura 860-1 SantrsquoAgata sui due Golfi 680 SantrsquoAmbrogio di Valpolicella 398 SantrsquoAntioco 847-8 SantrsquoArcangelo 742 Santo Stefano drsquoAveto 208 Santuario della Madonna del Terzito
783 Santuario di San Michele 703 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri 851 Sardinia 184 833-70 834 Sarnano 618 Sarnico 306 Sarto Andrea del 56 Sarzana 214 Sassari 857-9 858 sassi 733 735-6 737 Sauris di Sopra 424 Saviano Roberto 67 68 Savona 215-16 Savonarola Girolamo 42 Scala Santa 129
Signorelli Luca 56 Sila National Park 85 silk 299 303 Sinis Peninsula 851-2 Sirmione 307 308-9 Sistine Chapel 135-6 skiing see also cross-country skiing
Abruzzo 625 Alta Badia 339 340 Aosta 249
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Bormio 336 Breuil-Cervinia 255-6 Camigliatello Silano 748 Campitello Matese 625 631 Campo di Giove 625 Campo Felice 625 Campo Imperatore 625 Cermis ski area 327 Champoluc 256 Cogne 254 Courmayeur 252 Dolomites 314 798 itinerary 32 Lecco 306 Lorica 748 Madonna di Campiglio 322 324-5 Merano 334-5 Milky Way 234 Molise 625 Ovindoli 625 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Passo della Stelvio 336 Pescasseroli 625 Pescocostanzo 625 Piano Battaglia 775 Plan de Corones 341 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 Sella Ronda 329 Stresa 296 Tarvisio 423 Val di Fassa 328 Val di Solda 336 Val Gardena 337 Valle drsquoAosta 247 Valtournenche 256
Spello 586-7 Sperlonga 190 Spilimbergo 418 Spoleto 590-3 591 Spoleto Festival see Festival dei Due
Mondi Spormaggiore 322 sport 71-2 squares see piazza St Benedict 189 St Catherine of Siena 119 St Francis of Assisi 580 582 583 584 St Michael the Archangel 702-3 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 St Peterrsquos Square 132 St Ubaldo 588 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232 Star Wars 659 Steinbeck John 682 Stelvio National Park 85 335-7 Stintino 860 stone towers 851 Strada del Vino Costa degli Etruschi 531 Stradivari Antonio 289 Strait of Messina bridge 789 strawberries 336 Strawberry Festival 336 Stresa 295-7 296 Stromboli 785-6 Studi di Scultura Carlo Nicoli 520 Stupor Mundi see Frederick I
tickets 276 Teatro Greco 791 Teatro La Fenice 357 378 Teatro Olimpico 390 Teatro Rossini 610-11 Teatro San Carlo 70 647 telephone services 884-5 television 62 Tellaro 214 Tempietto 131 163 Tempio di Antas 846 Tempio Malatestiano 470 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Caracalla 130 Terme di Diocleziano 128 Termini 126-9 Termoli 632-3 Terranova di Pollino 742 Tharros 851 The Last Supper 86 265 theatre 71 theft 878 theme parks 471 Theodosius I the Great 39 thermal springs
Colli Eugane 386 Preacute-St-Didier 253 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Rabbi 327 Terme di Saturnia 553 Terme Merano 334
Thomes 867 Tiberius 38 time 885 910 Tintoretto 57 367 tipping 883 Tirolo 335 Tiscali 868 Titian 57 118 Tivoli 181-2 Tizzano Val Parma 457 Todi 578-80 Tolmezzo 424 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes 867 Tomba di Giulietta (Julietrsquos Tomb) 393 Tommaso Filippo 58 Torbole 310-11
Torcello 367 Torgiano 575-6 Torino see Turin Torre Annunziata 86 Torre Branca 265 Torre Civica 237 Torre drsquoArnolfo 486 Torre degli Asinelli 431 Torre del Porticciolo 857 Torre delle Milizie 116 Torre dellrsquoElefante 838 Torre dellrsquoOrologio 357 Torre di Mariano II 849 Torre di San Pancrazio 838 Torre Pendente 523 161 Torre Porta a Terra 854 Torre Troyana o DellrsquoOrologio 244 Tortoligrave 870 Tortora 745 Toula Glacier 252 Tour du Mont Blanc 253 tourist information 885-6 tours
U Uccello Paolo 57 Udine 418-22 420 Uffizi 487-90 491 Ultra Trail Tour du Mont Blanc 252 Umbria 560-99 564 Umbria Jazz 570 Under the Tuscan Sun 558 underground tours 317 649
IND
EX
V
IND
EX
942 I N D E X ( U - W )
Urbino 606-9 607 Ururi 633 Ustica 774 UTMB 252
vaccinations 903 Val Badia 339-41 Val drsquoAveto 208 Val di Fassa 328-9 Val di Fiemme 327 Val di Genova 325 Val di Gressoney 256-8 Val di Magra 214 Val di Non 326 Val di Rabbi 326-7 Val di Solda 336 Val di Sole 326 Val Gardena 337-8 Val Grande National Park 85 Val Martello 336-7 Val Pusteria 341-2 Valcamonica rock drawings 86 Valentinian 39 Valle drsquoAosta 192 194 245-58 246 Valle drsquoAyas 256-8 Valle dei Templi 820 Valle di Chisone 234 Valle di Susa 234 Vallee Blanche 252 Valley of the Temples 820 Vallunga 337 Valnerina the 594-5 Valpolicella 397-8 Valsesia 256-8 802 Valtellina 285 Valtournenche 255-6 Vaneze di Monte 319 vaporetto travel 380-1 Varallo 256 257 Varenna 306 Vasari Giorgio 55 57 Vasograven 319 Vasto 629 Vatican City 131-6 Vatican Museums 133-6 Velia 693 Veneto the 343-400 346 Venice 345-81 348-9 352-3
accommodation 370-3 cafes 375
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
children travel with 369 discount cards 351 drinking 376-7 entertainment 377-8 festivals 369 food 373-6 history 345-7 itineraries 347 shopping 378 379 sights 350-67 tourist information 350 travel tofrom 378-80 travel within 380-1
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Venosa 738-9 Ventimiglia 219-20 Ventotene 190-1 Verbania 298 Vercelli 245 Verdi Giuseppe 457 Verdi Country 456-7 Vernazza 209 Verona 392-7 394 Veronese Paolo 57 Versace Gianni 304 Vespasian 38 Vesuvio National Park 85 Vezio 306 Via Appia Antica 136-9 Via Ferrata delle Bocchette 322 Vibo Valentia 755 Vicenza 388-92 389 vie cave 554 vie ferrate 322 341 Vieste 701-2 701 Villa Adriana 181 Villa Balbianello 304 Villa Borghese 125-6 Villa Capra 390-1 Villa Carlotta 305 Villa Cipressi 306 Villa drsquoEste 181-2 Villa Floridiana 647 Villa Foscari 381 Villa Foscarini Rossi 382 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Kunkler 386 Villa Manin 422 Villa Maseacuter 392 Villa Monastero 306 Villa Pisani Nazionale 381-2 Villa Quintili 138 villa rentals 874-5 Villa Romana del Casale 818
Villa Rufolo 688 Villa Valmarana lsquoai Nanirsquo 390 Villa Welsperg 327 Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari 381 Villasimius 844 vineyards 442
Aosta 249 Barolo 240-1 Greve in Chianti 534 La Morra 240 Valpolicella 398
violins 289 Virgil 66 visas 887-8 see also passports Visconti family 43 Viterbo 184-7 185 Vittoriale degli Italiani il 310 volcanoes 82
waterfalls 311 616 water sports 72 weather 20 876-7 websites see internet resources weights 872 see inside front cover whale-watching 201 Whitaker Joseph 824-5 white-water rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
wildlife 81-4 see also individual animals amp plants
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
Grotta dello Smeraldo 686 Grotta di Nettuno 857 Grotta di San Giovanni 846 Grotta Gigante 413 Grotte dellrsquoAngelo Pertosa 694 Grotte di Castelcivita 694 Grotte di Castellana 713 Grotte di Frasassi 611 Orvieto 597 Polignano a Mare 713 San Domino 704
Cavour Count Camillo Benso di 44 Cefalugrave 776-7 Celio 129-30 cell phones 885 ceramics 576 Cernobbio 304 Certosa di Pavia 279-80 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Certosa di San Martino 646 Cerveteri 182-3 Champoluc 256 chariot races 633 cheese tasting 249 Cherasco 239-40 Chia 845 Chianti 533-6 Chiesa del Gesugrave 119 Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore 365 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli
(Rome) 125 Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie 265 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Aracoeli 117 Chieti 628-9 children travel with 875-6
amusement parks 309 471 aquariums 200 331 648 Florence 497-8 health 905 language 911 Rome 139 Venice 369 zoos 297 626
Chirico Giorgio de 58 chocolate 231 569-70 Christ Stopped at Eboli 731 734 739 Christian Democrats 46 Christianity 39-41 churches see also cathedrals
Basilica di San Clemente 129-30 Basilica di San Francesco (Assisi)
580-3 Basilica di San Frediano 517 Basilica di San Giovanni in
Laterano 129
Basilica di San Giulio 294 Basilica di San Giusto 404 Basilica di San Lorenzo 492 Basilica di San Marco (Rome) 118 Basilica di San Marco ( Venice)
355-6 9 Basilica di San Nicola 710 Basilica di San Petronio 428 Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli
126-7 Basilica di San Saturnino 839 Basilica di San Vitale 465 Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore 395 Basilica di Santa Caterina
drsquoAlessandria 726 Basilica di Santa Cecilia in
Trastevere 131 Basilica di Santa Croce (Florence)
493-4 160 Basilica di Santa Croce (Lecce) 723 Basilica di Santa Maria del Carmine
497 Basilica di Santa Maria in
Trastevere 130 Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
127-8 Basilica di Santa Maria Novella 491 Basilica di SantrsquoAbbondio 301 Basilica di SantrsquoAndrea 291 Basilica di SantrsquoAntonio 385-6 Basilica di SantrsquoApollinare in
Classe 466 Basilica di SantrsquoApollinare Nuovo
466 Basilica di Santo Spirito 497 Basilica di Superga 228 Chiesa degli Eremitani 385 Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis 136 Chiesa del Gesugrave 119 Chiesa della Madonna dellrsquoOrto
363 Chiesa della Santa Trigravenita 491 Chiesa di Piedigrotta 755 Chiesa di San Francesco (Arezzo)
555 Chiesa di San Francesco
(Sorrento) 677 Chiesa di San Francesco della
Vigna 364 Chiesa di San Francesco di Paola
647 Chiesa di San Giorgio 815 Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
365 Chiesa di San Michele in Foro 516
Chiesa di San Miniato al Monte 496
Chiesa di San Polo 361 Chiesa di San Zaccaria 364-5 Chiesa di Santa Corona 390 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli
(Rome) 125 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli
(Venice) 363 Chiesa di Santa Maria del Giglio
358 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute
359 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Spina
526 Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie
265 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Aracoeli
117 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin
122 Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra
Minerva 119 Chiesa di SantrsquoAnastasia 395 Chiesa di Santo Stefano 358 Chiesa di SantrsquoOrso 249 Chiesa e Battistero dei SS Giovanni
e Reparata 516 Chiesa Russa Ortodossia 217 Convent of the Minor Capuchin
Friars 703 Duomo di San Giovanni (Turin) 226 Gesuati 360 Madonna delle Virtugrave and San
Nicola del Greci 735 San Gimignano Basilica 544 Santa Caterina del Sasso 298 Santuario dellrsquoAnnunziata 826 Santuario di Nostra Signora di
Bonaria 839 Santuario di San Francesco di
Paola 745 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 Zanipolo 363-4
cicheti 373 cicloturismo (bicycle tourism) 433 Cilento e Vallo di Diano National Park
85 693-4 cinema 23 68-9 127 637 759 cinghiale 563 Cinque Terre 208-11 Cinque Terre National Park 85 Circeo National Park 82 85 Circo di Massenzio 137-8 Circo Massimo 114
IND
EX
IN
DEX
930 I N D E X ( C - D )
Cisternino 715 Civica Galleria drsquoArte Moderna 270-1 Cividale del Friuli 422 Civita 743 Civitavecchia 184 Civitella Alfedena 626 classical music 70 Claudius 38 climate 20 876-7 climate change 892 climbing 804
Altipiano della Paganella 322-3 Courmayeur 252-3 Domusnovas 846 Milky Way 234 Oliena 866 Sardinia 838 selvaggio blu 800 Sinis Peninsula 852 vie ferrate 341
Clooney George 304 Cocullo 624 Coddu Ecchju 863 coffee 76 410 439 Cogne 254 Colli Albani see Castelli Romani Colli Euganei 386 Colonna di Traiano ( Trajanrsquos Column)
49 Colosseum 112 Columbus Christopher 200 Comacchio 464 comics 66 communism 47 Como 299-302 300 Como Lake see Lago di Como Condofuri 751 Conegliano 398-9 confetti 623 Constantine I 39 consulates 879-80 contemporary art 272 Convent of the Minor Capuchin
Friars 703 cooking see food Coppola Francis Ford 733 Corniglia 209-10 Corricella 669 Cortina drsquoAmpezzo 400 Cortona 558-9 Corvara 339 340
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Cosenza 745-8 746 Costa del Sud 845 Costa Rei 844 Costa Smeralda 862-3 Costa Verde 848 Costiera Cilentana 692-3 costs 20-1 see also inside front
language 909-11 emigration 63 Emilia-Romagna 425-73 429 emperors 36-9 endangered species 82-8 Enna 817-18 Ente Lirico Arena di Verona 70 7 environmental issues 84-8 Ercolano 670-2 Erice 828-9 Esquilino (Esquiline) 126-9 Estate Romana 144 172 Este 386 Etruscan history 33-4 Etruscan sites 182-3 553-4 Euganean Hills 386 Eugubian Tablets 587 EUR 138-9 138 Eurochocolate 570 events 25-6 exchange rates see inside front cover
F Faenza 468 Fai della Paganella 322 farmstays 579 Farnese collection 646
Farro 563 fascism 44-6 fashion 173 272 277
courses 497 Fattoria di Celle 514 Favignana 830-1 Fellini Federico 68-9 127 Ferdinando I 494-5 Ferrara 459-63 460 Ferrari 449 ferries
Aeolian Islands 778-9 Bari 711-12 Brindisi 720-1 Elba 531 Lago Maggiore Express 295 Livorno 530 Messina 788-9 Sardinia 184 837 Sicily 757-9 763 tofrom Italy 896 within Italy 897
Festa del Redentore 26 Festa di San Marco 369 Festival dei Due Mondi 592 festivals 25-6 see also individual cities
Biennale di Venezia 369 Carnevale 25 369 chariot races 633 chilli-eating competition 745 Estate Romana 144 172 Eurochocolate 570 Festa del Redentore 26 Festa di San Marco 369 Festa di San Nicola 710 Festival dei Due Mondi 592 food 77-8 International Festival of Undershy
water Activities 774 Le Feste di Pasqua 730 Processione dei Serpari 624 Quintana 615 Ravenna Festival 467 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Sagra del Pesce 205 Salone Internazionale del Gusto
228 Settimana Santa 25 678 Strawberry Festival 336 Turin Book Fair 228 Umbria Jazz 570 Venice International Film
Festival 26 369 Fiabilandia 471 Fiesole 510-12
IND
EX
IN
DEX
932 I N D E X ( F - G )
Filicudi 786-7 film 23 68-9 127 637 759
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Fiumicello 740 Florence 476-510 480-1 484-5 488
accommodation 498-501 cafes 506 children travel with 497-8 entertainment 507-8 festivals 498 food 501-5 gelaterie 505 history 476 itineraries 479 shopping 508-9 sights 480-97 tourist information 479-80 tours 498 travel tofrom 509 travel within 510
Foci del Po 463 Foggia 705 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 fontina 250 food 73-80 880
football 71-2 233 AC Milan 276 corruption 233 Inter Milan 276 Juventus 233 San Siro stadium 276 Stadio Olimpico (Rome) 172 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232
Foresta Umbra 698 Foreste Casentinesi Monte Falterona e
Campigna National Park 85 Formula One 276 Forni di Sopra 424 Fortuny Tessuti Artistici 365 Forza Italia 48 Fossa delle Felci 783 Fossa di Vulcano 781-2 Frarsquo Angelico 52 57 492 Francesca Piero della 57 558 Franciacorta 307 Franciscan sites 583-4 Franco-Austrian War 44 Frascati 188 Frederick I (Barbarossa) Emperor 41-2 Frederick II 705 706 Friuli Venezia Giulia 401-24 404 Fuksas Massimiliano 139 funiculars see cable cars Funtanamare 846 Futurism 58
G Gaius (Caligula) 37 38 Galatina 726 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna e
358-9 galleries see museums amp galleries Gallipoli 728-9 7 Gambarie 751 garbage crisis 48 84 gardens see parks amp gardens Garfagnana the 519 Gargagnano 398 Gargano National Park 85 696-8 Garibaldi Giuseppe 44 823 861
gay travellers 880 Bologna 434 Milan 276 Rome 169
gelato 151 505 gelato-making 678 Gennargentu e Golfo di Orosei
Gentileschi Artemesia 57 490 geography 81 geology 81 Gerace 750 Ghiberti Lorenzo 57 Ghirlandaio Domenico 56 Gianicolo 131 Giara di Gesturi 851 Giardino di Bardini 496 Giardino di Boboli 496 Giotto 51 56 383-5 Giudecca 365 Giulie Alps 423 gladiator school 142 Gola Su Gorruppu 867-8 Golden Quad 277 Gole dellrsquoAlcagraventara 792 golf 234 Golfo Aranci 864 Golfo di Castellammare 829-30 Golfo di Orosei 868-9 Gomorra 67 68 gondolas 367-8 Gorizia 413-14 Gorruppu Gorge see Gola Su
Gorruppu Grado 416 graffiti 866 Gran Paradiso National Park 85
254-5 804 Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga
National Park 85 620 Grand Canal 350-5 grappa 77 Gravedona 305 Gressoney-La-Triniteacute 256 Gressoney-St-Jean 256
I N D E X ( G - I ) 933
Greve in Chianti 534-5 Grotta Azzurra 664 Grotta de Su Mannau 846 Grotta del Bue Marino 868 Grotta del Genoves 830 Grotta dello Smeraldo 686 Grotta di San Giovanni 846 Grotta Gigante 413 Grottaferrata 188 Grotte di Castellana 713 Grotte di Frasassi 611 Gruppo del Sella 329 Gubbio 587-90 588 Guggenheim Peggy 359
H Hadrian 38 39 119 181 hammam 767 hang-gliding
Castelluccio 594 Val Badia 340
haute couture 277 hay baths 340 health 903-5 heli-skiing
Courmayeur 252 Milky Way 234
Hemingway Ernest 295 Herculaneum 86 670-2 671 hiking
Alicudi 786 Alpe di Siusi 338 alte vie 316 Amalfi Coast 681 Apuane Alps 520 Aosta 249 Apennines 457 Baunei 869 Cala Gonone 868 Capri 665 Courmayeur 252-3 Dolomites 314-16 Dorgali 867 Elba 531 Gola Su Gorruppu 867-8 itinerary 32 Lipari 780 Madonna di Campiglio 322
325 Maritime Alps 237 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Milky Way 234 Mt Etna 807 Oliena 866 Pantelleria 831
Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie 775-6
Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e Molise 626 627
Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano 693
Parco Nazionale della Majella 624 Parco Regionale della Maremma
297 Isola Bella (Sicily) 792 Isola Caprera 861-2 Isola della Maddalena 861 Isola Madre 297 Isola Maggiore 577 Isola Polvese 577 Isola San Giulio 294 Isola San Pietro 847-8
IND
EX
934 I N D E X ( I - M )
Isola Superiore (Pescatori) 298
Isole Pelagie 822 Isole Pontine 190-1 Isole Tremiti 704-5 Italia in Miniatura 471 itineraries 27-32
J Janiculum 131 jet lag 904 jewellery design 497 Jewish culture 553 809 Jewish ghetto (Rome) 121-3 Jewish history 362-3 Joyce James 407 Julietrsquos House 393
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Julius Caesar 36-7 90 Juventus 233
K kayaking
Courmayeur 252 Elba 531 533 Val di Sole 326 Varallo 257
kite-surfing Palau 861 Sinis Peninsula 852
L la bella figura 61-2 La Fenice 70 La Garfagnana see Garfagnana the La Magdeleine 255 La Morra 240-1 La Rotonda 390-1 La Scala 264 La Sila 748-9 La Spezia 211-13 212 La vita egrave bella 555 Ladin 337 339 Laghetto di Fanghi 782 Laghi di Fusine 423-4 Lago di Albano 188 Lago di Como 299-306 9 Lago di Garda 307-12 803 Lago di Lesina 701 Lago di Lugano 305 Lago di Nemi 188 Lago di Piano 305 Lago di Varano 701 Lago drsquoIseo 306-7 Lago drsquoOrta 294-5 Lago Lario see Lago di Como Lago Maggiore 295-9 Lago Omedeo Circuit 852-3 Lago Trasimeno 576-8 Laguna di Marano 416 Lampedusa Giuseppe Tomasi di 66 Langhirano 457 language 906-11
Levanzo 830-1 Levi Carlo 67 731 734 739-40 Levi Primo 66 Lido the 366 Lignano 417 Liguria 192-220 196 limoncello 77 Lingotto Fiere 227 Lipari 779-81 Lippi Filippino 56 Lippi Filippo 52 57 495 literature 22-4 65-7 Livorno 528-30 529 Locorotondo 714-15 Lombardy 259-312 260 Lorenzetti brothers 52 56 Loreto 606 Lorica 748 Lovere 307 Lucanian Apennines see Appennino
Lucano Lucca 514-19 515 9 Lucera 705-6
M Macerata 611-13 Machiavelli 67 Madonna di Campiglio 322-6 324 Mafia 48 757 761 Majella National Park 85 624-5 majolica ceramics 576 Malcesine 310 Malvasia wine 781 783 Mamoiada 866 mamuthones 866 Manarola 210 Mani Pulite 48 Manotra see Mantua Mantegna Andrea 53 57 Mantero 303
IND
EX
I N D E X ( M ) 935
Mantua 289-93 290 maps 882 Maranello 449-50 Marano Lagunare 416 Maratea 740-1 marble quarries 520 Marcialonga 328 Marciana Marina 533 Marcus Aurelius 39 Marettimo 830-1 Marina del Cantone 680-1 Marina di Camerota 693 Marina di Carrara 520 Marina di Furore 685 Marina di Massa 520 Marina di Sorso 859 Marinetti Filippo Tommaso 58 Maritime Alps 237 Mark Antony (Marcus Antonius) 37 markets
Ballarograve 766 11 Catania 795 Genoa 203 La Pescheria 795 Mercato del Capo 766 Mercato della Vucciria 766
Marsala 823-4 Martello 336-7 Martina Franca 715-17 Martini Simone 52 56 Masaccio 53 57 497 mask making 367 masseria (manor farm) 716 Masua 846 Matera 733-8 12 mattanza 831 847 Matterhorn 255 Mausoleo di Cecilia Metell 138 Maximilian 412 measures 872 see also inside front
cover medical services 904 see also
health Medici family 43 476 492 494-5 Meier Richard 124 Menaggio 305 Merano 333-5 Mercato di Ballarograve 766 11 Messina 787-9 Messina Bridge project 87 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Metaponto 733 metric conversions see inside front
Milan 260-79 266-9 accommodation 271-3 drinking 274-5 entertainment 275-6 festivals 271 food 273-4 gay amp lesbian travellers 276 shopping 277 sights 263-71 tourist information 263 tours 271 travel tofrom 277-8 travel within 278-9
Milazzo 777-8 Milky Way 234-5 Mille Miglia 449 Miramare 411-12 Mission Impossible III 659 Mithraism 130 mobile phones 885 Modena 446-9 447 Modena Cento Ore 449 Modica 815-16 Moena 328 Molise 619 621 625 629-33 630 Moltrasio 304 Molveno 322 323 Mona Lisa 54 Monastery of St Benedict 189 Moncalvo 244 Mondello 773 money 20-1 882-3 see also inside
front cover discount cards Monferrato 244-5 Monreale 773-4 Monselice 386 Montagnana 386 Montalcino 550-1 Monte Bondone 319 Monte Cassino 189 Monte Isola 307 Monte Ortobene 865 Monte Pellegrino 773 Monte Rocchetta 311 Monte Rosa 256 Monte SantrsquoAngelo 702-4 Monte Ursino 216 Montepulciano 551-2 Monterosso 209 Monti del Matese 631 Monti Ferru 852 Monti Sibillini 85 594-5 616-17
Aosta 249 Cala Gonone 868 Courmayeur 252-3 Milky Way 234 Stresa 296 tours 868 Val Badia 340
mountain huts 874 mountaineering 257
Messner Reinhold 331 332 Mozia 825 Mt Etna 806-8 800 Mt Vesuvius 672-3 mud baths 782 831 Muggia 402 412-13 multiculturalism 62-3 Mundi Stupor 41 Munthe Axel 663 Murano 366-7 Murat Joachim 755 Murgia plateau 713-18 737 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto Adige
331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano 779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale 645 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia
751 Museo Nazionale di San Matteo 525 Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo
Massimo alle Terme 128-9 Museum of Glass 366 museums amp galleries
270-1 Galleria drsquoArte Moderna 361 Galleria dellrsquoAccademia (Florshy
ence) 493 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Antica
(Rome) 123 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna
e Contemporanea (Rome) 126
IND
EX
936 I N D E X ( M - N )
museums amp galleries continued Gallerie dellrsquoAccademia ( Venice)
358-9 Gallerie di Palazzo Leoni Montanshy
ari 390 Keats-Shelley Memorial House 124 MAAM (Museo a Cielo Aperto
dellrsquoArchitettura Moderna) 245 MAXXI art gallery 164 164 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Musei di Strada Nuova 197-8 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto
Adige 331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano
779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Naples) 645-6 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Sardinia) 838 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
dellrsquoUmbria 569 Museo Archeologico Paolo Orsi 811 Museo Civico (Siena) 538 Museo Civico (Vicenza)390 Museo Civico Archeologico
(Bologna) 430 Museo Claudio Faina e Civico 597 Museo Correr 357 Museo del Bargello 490 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo della Fondazione Querini
Stampalia 364 Museo della Scultura
Contemporanea 735-6 Museo della Seta 301 Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni
Sarde 865 Museo dellrsquoAra Pacis 124 158 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo dellrsquoOpera Metropolitana
539 Museo di Capodimonte 648 Museo di Roma 121 Museo di San Marco (Florence)
492 Museo Ebraico 363 Museo Ebraico di Roma 122 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Etrusco Guarnacci 548 Museo Fortuny 358
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Museo Nazionale Archeologico ( Taranto) 730
Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia 751
Museo Nazionale Romano Crypta Balbi 120
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Altemps 120-1
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo alle Terme 128-9
Museo Nazionale Romano Terme di Diocleziano 128
Museo Palatino 113 Museo Walser 256 Museum of Glass 366 Padiglione drsquoArte Contemporanea
accommodation 570-1 courses 570 drinking 572 festivals 570 food 571-2 history 565 language courses 570 shopping 573 sights 568-70 tourist information 567 travel tofrom 573-4 travel within 574-5
Perugia Universitagrave per Stranieri 570 Perugina chocolate factory 569-70 Perugino 56 Pesaro 609-11 Pescara 627-8 Pescasseroli 625 626 Peschici 698-700 Pescocostanzo 624-5 Petralia Soprana 775 Petralia Sottana 775 Petrarch 67 386 Phoenician ruins 825 847 phone cards 885 Piacenza 457-9 Piano Renzo 171-2 Piano Battaglia 775 Piazza Barberini 123-4 Piazza dei Miracoli 86 523-5 Piazza del Popolo 124-8 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Piazza della Repubblica 128-32 Piazza di Spagna 124 Piazza Navona 120 Piazza San Marco 355-7 Piazza San Pietro 132 Piazza Venezia 118-19 Piccione 563 Piedmont 192 194 220-45 221 Pienza 551 Pietagrave 133 Pietra di Bismantova 452 Pietrabbondante 632 Pietrapertosa 740 Pietrasanta 521 Pigra 304
Pila 249 pilgrimage 702-3 Pinacoteca di Brera 270 Pinzolo 324-6 Piombi 356 Pirandello Luigi 67 Pisa 521-8 522 Pisano Giovanni 56 539 Pisano Nicola 51 56 524 Pisciotta 693 Pistoia 512-14 513 Pitigliano 553-4 Pitti family 495-6 Pizzo 755 Plan de Corones 341 planning 20-4 see also itineraries
discount cards plants 83-4 Platamona 859 Plateau Rosa 255-6 256 Po Delta 463-4 poetry 67 Policoro 733 Polignano a Mare 712-13 politics 18-9 64-5 Pollara 783 Parco Nazionale del Pollino
(Basilicata) 85 741-2 Parco Nazionale del Pollino (Calabria)
85 743-5 pollution 84 718 878 Pompeii 86 673-6 Ponte di Calatrava 350 Ponza 190-1 pop music 70-1 popes 39-41 90 132 Popolo della Libertagrave 48 population 62-4 Pordenone 417 Porlezza 305 Porto Cervo 862 Porto Conte 857 Porto Ferro 857 Porto Teulada 845 Porto Torres 860 Porto Venere 213-14 Portocannone 633 Portoferraio 531-3 Portofino 206 Positano 682-4 683 Possagno 392 postal services 883-4 Potenza 739 Pozzuoli 657-8 Praia a Mare 745
I N D E X ( P - S ) 939
Praiano 684-5 Processione dei Serpari 624 Procida 669-72 Promontorio del Gargano 696-704 prosciutto 422-3 458 Prosecco 398-9 Provenzano Bernardo 761 public transport 900 Puglia 696-731 699 Pula 844-5 Punta della Dogana 359-60 Punta Helbronner 253 puppet shows 809 Pythagoras 733
Q Quadrilatero drsquoOro 277 Quintana 615
R Radda in Chianti 536 radio 872 rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
Ragusa 816-17 rail passes 895 Rapallo 207-8 Raphael 56 126 134 135 490 495 Ravello 687-8 Ravenna 464-8 465 Ravenna Festival 467 Red Brigades 47 Refounded Communist Party 47 Regata Storica 369 Reggio di Calabria 751-3 752 Reggio Emilia 450-2 451 religion 64 Remus 34 Renaissance art 53-5 56 57 Repubblica di San Marino 473 responsible travel 21-2
resources 22 Ribera Giuseppe de 57 Rimini 468-73 469 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Riola Sardo 852 Riomaggiore 210 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822 Riva 311 Riva del Garda 311 Rivello 740-1 Riviera di Levante 205-14
Riviera di Ponente 215-20 road distance chart 899 Robbia Andrea della 57 Rocca Meli Lupi 456 Rocca Sanvitale 456 rock carvings 830 rock-climbing see climbing Roghudi 751 Roman Baths of Caracalla 70 Roman Empire 34-6 40 35 Roman Forum 114 Rome 89-191 95-110
accommodation 144-50 children travel with 139 clubbing 168-71 cooking 140-2 courses 140-2 discount cards 111 drinking 165-8 entertainment 171-2 festivals 143-4 food 150-65 gay amp lesbian travellers 169 history 90 shopping 172-4 sights 112-39 tourist information 94-111 travel tofrom 174-5 travel within 175-9 walking tours 140 143 141
S Sabaudia 190 Sabbioneta 293 Sacile 402 417-18 Saepinum 630-1 sailing 207 812 861 saints 915 see also individual saints Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci (Chamber
of the Council of 10) 356 salami 594 Salentine Peninsula see Penisola
Salentina Salerno 689-92 689 Salina 783-4 Saline di Trapani 824-5 Salograve 309 Saluzzo 236-8 San Benedetto Po 293 San Carlo Borromeo 298
San Costantino Albanese 741-2 San Daniele del Friuli 402 422-3 San Domino 704 San Francesco di Paola 745 San Fruttuoso 205-6 San Gimignano 544-7 545 San Giorgio 398 San Giorgio Maggiore 365-6 San Giovanni 129-30 San Giovanni in Fiore 748 San Giovanni Rotondo 703 San Marino 473-4 473 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 San Martino in Pensilis 633 San Michele 366 San Nicola 704 San Pantaleo 824 862-3 San Paolo Albanese 741-2 San Pietro in Cariano 397 San Polo 360-1 San Remo 217-19 218 San Siro stadium 276 San Terenzo 214 Sansepolcro 558 Santa Caterina di Pittinuri 852 Santa Caterina di Siena 540 Santa Cecilia 131 Santa Cristina 337-8 Santa Croce 360-1 Santa Margherita 206-7 Santa Maria di Leuca 728 Santa Maria Navarrese 870 Santa Severina 749 Santa Teresa di Gallura 860-1 SantrsquoAgata sui due Golfi 680 SantrsquoAmbrogio di Valpolicella 398 SantrsquoAntioco 847-8 SantrsquoArcangelo 742 Santo Stefano drsquoAveto 208 Santuario della Madonna del Terzito
783 Santuario di San Michele 703 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri 851 Sardinia 184 833-70 834 Sarnano 618 Sarnico 306 Sarto Andrea del 56 Sarzana 214 Sassari 857-9 858 sassi 733 735-6 737 Sauris di Sopra 424 Saviano Roberto 67 68 Savona 215-16 Savonarola Girolamo 42 Scala Santa 129
Signorelli Luca 56 Sila National Park 85 silk 299 303 Sinis Peninsula 851-2 Sirmione 307 308-9 Sistine Chapel 135-6 skiing see also cross-country skiing
Abruzzo 625 Alta Badia 339 340 Aosta 249
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Bormio 336 Breuil-Cervinia 255-6 Camigliatello Silano 748 Campitello Matese 625 631 Campo di Giove 625 Campo Felice 625 Campo Imperatore 625 Cermis ski area 327 Champoluc 256 Cogne 254 Courmayeur 252 Dolomites 314 798 itinerary 32 Lecco 306 Lorica 748 Madonna di Campiglio 322 324-5 Merano 334-5 Milky Way 234 Molise 625 Ovindoli 625 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Passo della Stelvio 336 Pescasseroli 625 Pescocostanzo 625 Piano Battaglia 775 Plan de Corones 341 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 Sella Ronda 329 Stresa 296 Tarvisio 423 Val di Fassa 328 Val di Solda 336 Val Gardena 337 Valle drsquoAosta 247 Valtournenche 256
Spello 586-7 Sperlonga 190 Spilimbergo 418 Spoleto 590-3 591 Spoleto Festival see Festival dei Due
Mondi Spormaggiore 322 sport 71-2 squares see piazza St Benedict 189 St Catherine of Siena 119 St Francis of Assisi 580 582 583 584 St Michael the Archangel 702-3 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 St Peterrsquos Square 132 St Ubaldo 588 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232 Star Wars 659 Steinbeck John 682 Stelvio National Park 85 335-7 Stintino 860 stone towers 851 Strada del Vino Costa degli Etruschi 531 Stradivari Antonio 289 Strait of Messina bridge 789 strawberries 336 Strawberry Festival 336 Stresa 295-7 296 Stromboli 785-6 Studi di Scultura Carlo Nicoli 520 Stupor Mundi see Frederick I
tickets 276 Teatro Greco 791 Teatro La Fenice 357 378 Teatro Olimpico 390 Teatro Rossini 610-11 Teatro San Carlo 70 647 telephone services 884-5 television 62 Tellaro 214 Tempietto 131 163 Tempio di Antas 846 Tempio Malatestiano 470 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Caracalla 130 Terme di Diocleziano 128 Termini 126-9 Termoli 632-3 Terranova di Pollino 742 Tharros 851 The Last Supper 86 265 theatre 71 theft 878 theme parks 471 Theodosius I the Great 39 thermal springs
Colli Eugane 386 Preacute-St-Didier 253 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Rabbi 327 Terme di Saturnia 553 Terme Merano 334
Thomes 867 Tiberius 38 time 885 910 Tintoretto 57 367 tipping 883 Tirolo 335 Tiscali 868 Titian 57 118 Tivoli 181-2 Tizzano Val Parma 457 Todi 578-80 Tolmezzo 424 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes 867 Tomba di Giulietta (Julietrsquos Tomb) 393 Tommaso Filippo 58 Torbole 310-11
Torcello 367 Torgiano 575-6 Torino see Turin Torre Annunziata 86 Torre Branca 265 Torre Civica 237 Torre drsquoArnolfo 486 Torre degli Asinelli 431 Torre del Porticciolo 857 Torre delle Milizie 116 Torre dellrsquoElefante 838 Torre dellrsquoOrologio 357 Torre di Mariano II 849 Torre di San Pancrazio 838 Torre Pendente 523 161 Torre Porta a Terra 854 Torre Troyana o DellrsquoOrologio 244 Tortoligrave 870 Tortora 745 Toula Glacier 252 Tour du Mont Blanc 253 tourist information 885-6 tours
U Uccello Paolo 57 Udine 418-22 420 Uffizi 487-90 491 Ultra Trail Tour du Mont Blanc 252 Umbria 560-99 564 Umbria Jazz 570 Under the Tuscan Sun 558 underground tours 317 649
IND
EX
V
IND
EX
942 I N D E X ( U - W )
Urbino 606-9 607 Ururi 633 Ustica 774 UTMB 252
vaccinations 903 Val Badia 339-41 Val drsquoAveto 208 Val di Fassa 328-9 Val di Fiemme 327 Val di Genova 325 Val di Gressoney 256-8 Val di Magra 214 Val di Non 326 Val di Rabbi 326-7 Val di Solda 336 Val di Sole 326 Val Gardena 337-8 Val Grande National Park 85 Val Martello 336-7 Val Pusteria 341-2 Valcamonica rock drawings 86 Valentinian 39 Valle drsquoAosta 192 194 245-58 246 Valle drsquoAyas 256-8 Valle dei Templi 820 Valle di Chisone 234 Valle di Susa 234 Vallee Blanche 252 Valley of the Temples 820 Vallunga 337 Valnerina the 594-5 Valpolicella 397-8 Valsesia 256-8 802 Valtellina 285 Valtournenche 255-6 Vaneze di Monte 319 vaporetto travel 380-1 Varallo 256 257 Varenna 306 Vasari Giorgio 55 57 Vasograven 319 Vasto 629 Vatican City 131-6 Vatican Museums 133-6 Velia 693 Veneto the 343-400 346 Venice 345-81 348-9 352-3
accommodation 370-3 cafes 375
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
children travel with 369 discount cards 351 drinking 376-7 entertainment 377-8 festivals 369 food 373-6 history 345-7 itineraries 347 shopping 378 379 sights 350-67 tourist information 350 travel tofrom 378-80 travel within 380-1
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Venosa 738-9 Ventimiglia 219-20 Ventotene 190-1 Verbania 298 Vercelli 245 Verdi Giuseppe 457 Verdi Country 456-7 Vernazza 209 Verona 392-7 394 Veronese Paolo 57 Versace Gianni 304 Vespasian 38 Vesuvio National Park 85 Vezio 306 Via Appia Antica 136-9 Via Ferrata delle Bocchette 322 Vibo Valentia 755 Vicenza 388-92 389 vie cave 554 vie ferrate 322 341 Vieste 701-2 701 Villa Adriana 181 Villa Balbianello 304 Villa Borghese 125-6 Villa Capra 390-1 Villa Carlotta 305 Villa Cipressi 306 Villa drsquoEste 181-2 Villa Floridiana 647 Villa Foscari 381 Villa Foscarini Rossi 382 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Kunkler 386 Villa Manin 422 Villa Maseacuter 392 Villa Monastero 306 Villa Pisani Nazionale 381-2 Villa Quintili 138 villa rentals 874-5 Villa Romana del Casale 818
Villa Rufolo 688 Villa Valmarana lsquoai Nanirsquo 390 Villa Welsperg 327 Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari 381 Villasimius 844 vineyards 442
Aosta 249 Barolo 240-1 Greve in Chianti 534 La Morra 240 Valpolicella 398
violins 289 Virgil 66 visas 887-8 see also passports Visconti family 43 Viterbo 184-7 185 Vittoriale degli Italiani il 310 volcanoes 82
waterfalls 311 616 water sports 72 weather 20 876-7 websites see internet resources weights 872 see inside front cover whale-watching 201 Whitaker Joseph 824-5 white-water rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
wildlife 81-4 see also individual animals amp plants
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
Cisternino 715 Civica Galleria drsquoArte Moderna 270-1 Cividale del Friuli 422 Civita 743 Civitavecchia 184 Civitella Alfedena 626 classical music 70 Claudius 38 climate 20 876-7 climate change 892 climbing 804
Altipiano della Paganella 322-3 Courmayeur 252-3 Domusnovas 846 Milky Way 234 Oliena 866 Sardinia 838 selvaggio blu 800 Sinis Peninsula 852 vie ferrate 341
Clooney George 304 Cocullo 624 Coddu Ecchju 863 coffee 76 410 439 Cogne 254 Colli Albani see Castelli Romani Colli Euganei 386 Colonna di Traiano ( Trajanrsquos Column)
49 Colosseum 112 Columbus Christopher 200 Comacchio 464 comics 66 communism 47 Como 299-302 300 Como Lake see Lago di Como Condofuri 751 Conegliano 398-9 confetti 623 Constantine I 39 consulates 879-80 contemporary art 272 Convent of the Minor Capuchin
Friars 703 cooking see food Coppola Francis Ford 733 Corniglia 209-10 Corricella 669 Cortina drsquoAmpezzo 400 Cortona 558-9 Corvara 339 340
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Cosenza 745-8 746 Costa del Sud 845 Costa Rei 844 Costa Smeralda 862-3 Costa Verde 848 Costiera Cilentana 692-3 costs 20-1 see also inside front
language 909-11 emigration 63 Emilia-Romagna 425-73 429 emperors 36-9 endangered species 82-8 Enna 817-18 Ente Lirico Arena di Verona 70 7 environmental issues 84-8 Ercolano 670-2 Erice 828-9 Esquilino (Esquiline) 126-9 Estate Romana 144 172 Este 386 Etruscan history 33-4 Etruscan sites 182-3 553-4 Euganean Hills 386 Eugubian Tablets 587 EUR 138-9 138 Eurochocolate 570 events 25-6 exchange rates see inside front cover
F Faenza 468 Fai della Paganella 322 farmstays 579 Farnese collection 646
Farro 563 fascism 44-6 fashion 173 272 277
courses 497 Fattoria di Celle 514 Favignana 830-1 Fellini Federico 68-9 127 Ferdinando I 494-5 Ferrara 459-63 460 Ferrari 449 ferries
Aeolian Islands 778-9 Bari 711-12 Brindisi 720-1 Elba 531 Lago Maggiore Express 295 Livorno 530 Messina 788-9 Sardinia 184 837 Sicily 757-9 763 tofrom Italy 896 within Italy 897
Festa del Redentore 26 Festa di San Marco 369 Festival dei Due Mondi 592 festivals 25-6 see also individual cities
Biennale di Venezia 369 Carnevale 25 369 chariot races 633 chilli-eating competition 745 Estate Romana 144 172 Eurochocolate 570 Festa del Redentore 26 Festa di San Marco 369 Festa di San Nicola 710 Festival dei Due Mondi 592 food 77-8 International Festival of Undershy
water Activities 774 Le Feste di Pasqua 730 Processione dei Serpari 624 Quintana 615 Ravenna Festival 467 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Sagra del Pesce 205 Salone Internazionale del Gusto
228 Settimana Santa 25 678 Strawberry Festival 336 Turin Book Fair 228 Umbria Jazz 570 Venice International Film
Festival 26 369 Fiabilandia 471 Fiesole 510-12
IND
EX
IN
DEX
932 I N D E X ( F - G )
Filicudi 786-7 film 23 68-9 127 637 759
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Fiumicello 740 Florence 476-510 480-1 484-5 488
accommodation 498-501 cafes 506 children travel with 497-8 entertainment 507-8 festivals 498 food 501-5 gelaterie 505 history 476 itineraries 479 shopping 508-9 sights 480-97 tourist information 479-80 tours 498 travel tofrom 509 travel within 510
Foci del Po 463 Foggia 705 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 fontina 250 food 73-80 880
football 71-2 233 AC Milan 276 corruption 233 Inter Milan 276 Juventus 233 San Siro stadium 276 Stadio Olimpico (Rome) 172 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232
Foresta Umbra 698 Foreste Casentinesi Monte Falterona e
Campigna National Park 85 Formula One 276 Forni di Sopra 424 Fortuny Tessuti Artistici 365 Forza Italia 48 Fossa delle Felci 783 Fossa di Vulcano 781-2 Frarsquo Angelico 52 57 492 Francesca Piero della 57 558 Franciacorta 307 Franciscan sites 583-4 Franco-Austrian War 44 Frascati 188 Frederick I (Barbarossa) Emperor 41-2 Frederick II 705 706 Friuli Venezia Giulia 401-24 404 Fuksas Massimiliano 139 funiculars see cable cars Funtanamare 846 Futurism 58
G Gaius (Caligula) 37 38 Galatina 726 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna e
358-9 galleries see museums amp galleries Gallipoli 728-9 7 Gambarie 751 garbage crisis 48 84 gardens see parks amp gardens Garfagnana the 519 Gargagnano 398 Gargano National Park 85 696-8 Garibaldi Giuseppe 44 823 861
gay travellers 880 Bologna 434 Milan 276 Rome 169
gelato 151 505 gelato-making 678 Gennargentu e Golfo di Orosei
Gentileschi Artemesia 57 490 geography 81 geology 81 Gerace 750 Ghiberti Lorenzo 57 Ghirlandaio Domenico 56 Gianicolo 131 Giara di Gesturi 851 Giardino di Bardini 496 Giardino di Boboli 496 Giotto 51 56 383-5 Giudecca 365 Giulie Alps 423 gladiator school 142 Gola Su Gorruppu 867-8 Golden Quad 277 Gole dellrsquoAlcagraventara 792 golf 234 Golfo Aranci 864 Golfo di Castellammare 829-30 Golfo di Orosei 868-9 Gomorra 67 68 gondolas 367-8 Gorizia 413-14 Gorruppu Gorge see Gola Su
Gorruppu Grado 416 graffiti 866 Gran Paradiso National Park 85
254-5 804 Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga
National Park 85 620 Grand Canal 350-5 grappa 77 Gravedona 305 Gressoney-La-Triniteacute 256 Gressoney-St-Jean 256
I N D E X ( G - I ) 933
Greve in Chianti 534-5 Grotta Azzurra 664 Grotta de Su Mannau 846 Grotta del Bue Marino 868 Grotta del Genoves 830 Grotta dello Smeraldo 686 Grotta di San Giovanni 846 Grotta Gigante 413 Grottaferrata 188 Grotte di Castellana 713 Grotte di Frasassi 611 Gruppo del Sella 329 Gubbio 587-90 588 Guggenheim Peggy 359
H Hadrian 38 39 119 181 hammam 767 hang-gliding
Castelluccio 594 Val Badia 340
haute couture 277 hay baths 340 health 903-5 heli-skiing
Courmayeur 252 Milky Way 234
Hemingway Ernest 295 Herculaneum 86 670-2 671 hiking
Alicudi 786 Alpe di Siusi 338 alte vie 316 Amalfi Coast 681 Apuane Alps 520 Aosta 249 Apennines 457 Baunei 869 Cala Gonone 868 Capri 665 Courmayeur 252-3 Dolomites 314-16 Dorgali 867 Elba 531 Gola Su Gorruppu 867-8 itinerary 32 Lipari 780 Madonna di Campiglio 322
325 Maritime Alps 237 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Milky Way 234 Mt Etna 807 Oliena 866 Pantelleria 831
Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie 775-6
Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e Molise 626 627
Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano 693
Parco Nazionale della Majella 624 Parco Regionale della Maremma
297 Isola Bella (Sicily) 792 Isola Caprera 861-2 Isola della Maddalena 861 Isola Madre 297 Isola Maggiore 577 Isola Polvese 577 Isola San Giulio 294 Isola San Pietro 847-8
IND
EX
934 I N D E X ( I - M )
Isola Superiore (Pescatori) 298
Isole Pelagie 822 Isole Pontine 190-1 Isole Tremiti 704-5 Italia in Miniatura 471 itineraries 27-32
J Janiculum 131 jet lag 904 jewellery design 497 Jewish culture 553 809 Jewish ghetto (Rome) 121-3 Jewish history 362-3 Joyce James 407 Julietrsquos House 393
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Julius Caesar 36-7 90 Juventus 233
K kayaking
Courmayeur 252 Elba 531 533 Val di Sole 326 Varallo 257
kite-surfing Palau 861 Sinis Peninsula 852
L la bella figura 61-2 La Fenice 70 La Garfagnana see Garfagnana the La Magdeleine 255 La Morra 240-1 La Rotonda 390-1 La Scala 264 La Sila 748-9 La Spezia 211-13 212 La vita egrave bella 555 Ladin 337 339 Laghetto di Fanghi 782 Laghi di Fusine 423-4 Lago di Albano 188 Lago di Como 299-306 9 Lago di Garda 307-12 803 Lago di Lesina 701 Lago di Lugano 305 Lago di Nemi 188 Lago di Piano 305 Lago di Varano 701 Lago drsquoIseo 306-7 Lago drsquoOrta 294-5 Lago Lario see Lago di Como Lago Maggiore 295-9 Lago Omedeo Circuit 852-3 Lago Trasimeno 576-8 Laguna di Marano 416 Lampedusa Giuseppe Tomasi di 66 Langhirano 457 language 906-11
Levanzo 830-1 Levi Carlo 67 731 734 739-40 Levi Primo 66 Lido the 366 Lignano 417 Liguria 192-220 196 limoncello 77 Lingotto Fiere 227 Lipari 779-81 Lippi Filippino 56 Lippi Filippo 52 57 495 literature 22-4 65-7 Livorno 528-30 529 Locorotondo 714-15 Lombardy 259-312 260 Lorenzetti brothers 52 56 Loreto 606 Lorica 748 Lovere 307 Lucanian Apennines see Appennino
Lucano Lucca 514-19 515 9 Lucera 705-6
M Macerata 611-13 Machiavelli 67 Madonna di Campiglio 322-6 324 Mafia 48 757 761 Majella National Park 85 624-5 majolica ceramics 576 Malcesine 310 Malvasia wine 781 783 Mamoiada 866 mamuthones 866 Manarola 210 Mani Pulite 48 Manotra see Mantua Mantegna Andrea 53 57 Mantero 303
IND
EX
I N D E X ( M ) 935
Mantua 289-93 290 maps 882 Maranello 449-50 Marano Lagunare 416 Maratea 740-1 marble quarries 520 Marcialonga 328 Marciana Marina 533 Marcus Aurelius 39 Marettimo 830-1 Marina del Cantone 680-1 Marina di Camerota 693 Marina di Carrara 520 Marina di Furore 685 Marina di Massa 520 Marina di Sorso 859 Marinetti Filippo Tommaso 58 Maritime Alps 237 Mark Antony (Marcus Antonius) 37 markets
Ballarograve 766 11 Catania 795 Genoa 203 La Pescheria 795 Mercato del Capo 766 Mercato della Vucciria 766
Marsala 823-4 Martello 336-7 Martina Franca 715-17 Martini Simone 52 56 Masaccio 53 57 497 mask making 367 masseria (manor farm) 716 Masua 846 Matera 733-8 12 mattanza 831 847 Matterhorn 255 Mausoleo di Cecilia Metell 138 Maximilian 412 measures 872 see also inside front
cover medical services 904 see also
health Medici family 43 476 492 494-5 Meier Richard 124 Menaggio 305 Merano 333-5 Mercato di Ballarograve 766 11 Messina 787-9 Messina Bridge project 87 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Metaponto 733 metric conversions see inside front
Milan 260-79 266-9 accommodation 271-3 drinking 274-5 entertainment 275-6 festivals 271 food 273-4 gay amp lesbian travellers 276 shopping 277 sights 263-71 tourist information 263 tours 271 travel tofrom 277-8 travel within 278-9
Milazzo 777-8 Milky Way 234-5 Mille Miglia 449 Miramare 411-12 Mission Impossible III 659 Mithraism 130 mobile phones 885 Modena 446-9 447 Modena Cento Ore 449 Modica 815-16 Moena 328 Molise 619 621 625 629-33 630 Moltrasio 304 Molveno 322 323 Mona Lisa 54 Monastery of St Benedict 189 Moncalvo 244 Mondello 773 money 20-1 882-3 see also inside
front cover discount cards Monferrato 244-5 Monreale 773-4 Monselice 386 Montagnana 386 Montalcino 550-1 Monte Bondone 319 Monte Cassino 189 Monte Isola 307 Monte Ortobene 865 Monte Pellegrino 773 Monte Rocchetta 311 Monte Rosa 256 Monte SantrsquoAngelo 702-4 Monte Ursino 216 Montepulciano 551-2 Monterosso 209 Monti del Matese 631 Monti Ferru 852 Monti Sibillini 85 594-5 616-17
Aosta 249 Cala Gonone 868 Courmayeur 252-3 Milky Way 234 Stresa 296 tours 868 Val Badia 340
mountain huts 874 mountaineering 257
Messner Reinhold 331 332 Mozia 825 Mt Etna 806-8 800 Mt Vesuvius 672-3 mud baths 782 831 Muggia 402 412-13 multiculturalism 62-3 Mundi Stupor 41 Munthe Axel 663 Murano 366-7 Murat Joachim 755 Murgia plateau 713-18 737 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto Adige
331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano 779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale 645 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia
751 Museo Nazionale di San Matteo 525 Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo
Massimo alle Terme 128-9 Museum of Glass 366 museums amp galleries
270-1 Galleria drsquoArte Moderna 361 Galleria dellrsquoAccademia (Florshy
ence) 493 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Antica
(Rome) 123 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna
e Contemporanea (Rome) 126
IND
EX
936 I N D E X ( M - N )
museums amp galleries continued Gallerie dellrsquoAccademia ( Venice)
358-9 Gallerie di Palazzo Leoni Montanshy
ari 390 Keats-Shelley Memorial House 124 MAAM (Museo a Cielo Aperto
dellrsquoArchitettura Moderna) 245 MAXXI art gallery 164 164 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Musei di Strada Nuova 197-8 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto
Adige 331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano
779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Naples) 645-6 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Sardinia) 838 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
dellrsquoUmbria 569 Museo Archeologico Paolo Orsi 811 Museo Civico (Siena) 538 Museo Civico (Vicenza)390 Museo Civico Archeologico
(Bologna) 430 Museo Claudio Faina e Civico 597 Museo Correr 357 Museo del Bargello 490 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo della Fondazione Querini
Stampalia 364 Museo della Scultura
Contemporanea 735-6 Museo della Seta 301 Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni
Sarde 865 Museo dellrsquoAra Pacis 124 158 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo dellrsquoOpera Metropolitana
539 Museo di Capodimonte 648 Museo di Roma 121 Museo di San Marco (Florence)
492 Museo Ebraico 363 Museo Ebraico di Roma 122 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Etrusco Guarnacci 548 Museo Fortuny 358
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Museo Nazionale Archeologico ( Taranto) 730
Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia 751
Museo Nazionale Romano Crypta Balbi 120
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Altemps 120-1
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo alle Terme 128-9
Museo Nazionale Romano Terme di Diocleziano 128
Museo Palatino 113 Museo Walser 256 Museum of Glass 366 Padiglione drsquoArte Contemporanea
accommodation 570-1 courses 570 drinking 572 festivals 570 food 571-2 history 565 language courses 570 shopping 573 sights 568-70 tourist information 567 travel tofrom 573-4 travel within 574-5
Perugia Universitagrave per Stranieri 570 Perugina chocolate factory 569-70 Perugino 56 Pesaro 609-11 Pescara 627-8 Pescasseroli 625 626 Peschici 698-700 Pescocostanzo 624-5 Petralia Soprana 775 Petralia Sottana 775 Petrarch 67 386 Phoenician ruins 825 847 phone cards 885 Piacenza 457-9 Piano Renzo 171-2 Piano Battaglia 775 Piazza Barberini 123-4 Piazza dei Miracoli 86 523-5 Piazza del Popolo 124-8 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Piazza della Repubblica 128-32 Piazza di Spagna 124 Piazza Navona 120 Piazza San Marco 355-7 Piazza San Pietro 132 Piazza Venezia 118-19 Piccione 563 Piedmont 192 194 220-45 221 Pienza 551 Pietagrave 133 Pietra di Bismantova 452 Pietrabbondante 632 Pietrapertosa 740 Pietrasanta 521 Pigra 304
Pila 249 pilgrimage 702-3 Pinacoteca di Brera 270 Pinzolo 324-6 Piombi 356 Pirandello Luigi 67 Pisa 521-8 522 Pisano Giovanni 56 539 Pisano Nicola 51 56 524 Pisciotta 693 Pistoia 512-14 513 Pitigliano 553-4 Pitti family 495-6 Pizzo 755 Plan de Corones 341 planning 20-4 see also itineraries
discount cards plants 83-4 Platamona 859 Plateau Rosa 255-6 256 Po Delta 463-4 poetry 67 Policoro 733 Polignano a Mare 712-13 politics 18-9 64-5 Pollara 783 Parco Nazionale del Pollino
(Basilicata) 85 741-2 Parco Nazionale del Pollino (Calabria)
85 743-5 pollution 84 718 878 Pompeii 86 673-6 Ponte di Calatrava 350 Ponza 190-1 pop music 70-1 popes 39-41 90 132 Popolo della Libertagrave 48 population 62-4 Pordenone 417 Porlezza 305 Porto Cervo 862 Porto Conte 857 Porto Ferro 857 Porto Teulada 845 Porto Torres 860 Porto Venere 213-14 Portocannone 633 Portoferraio 531-3 Portofino 206 Positano 682-4 683 Possagno 392 postal services 883-4 Potenza 739 Pozzuoli 657-8 Praia a Mare 745
I N D E X ( P - S ) 939
Praiano 684-5 Processione dei Serpari 624 Procida 669-72 Promontorio del Gargano 696-704 prosciutto 422-3 458 Prosecco 398-9 Provenzano Bernardo 761 public transport 900 Puglia 696-731 699 Pula 844-5 Punta della Dogana 359-60 Punta Helbronner 253 puppet shows 809 Pythagoras 733
Q Quadrilatero drsquoOro 277 Quintana 615
R Radda in Chianti 536 radio 872 rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
Ragusa 816-17 rail passes 895 Rapallo 207-8 Raphael 56 126 134 135 490 495 Ravello 687-8 Ravenna 464-8 465 Ravenna Festival 467 Red Brigades 47 Refounded Communist Party 47 Regata Storica 369 Reggio di Calabria 751-3 752 Reggio Emilia 450-2 451 religion 64 Remus 34 Renaissance art 53-5 56 57 Repubblica di San Marino 473 responsible travel 21-2
resources 22 Ribera Giuseppe de 57 Rimini 468-73 469 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Riola Sardo 852 Riomaggiore 210 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822 Riva 311 Riva del Garda 311 Rivello 740-1 Riviera di Levante 205-14
Riviera di Ponente 215-20 road distance chart 899 Robbia Andrea della 57 Rocca Meli Lupi 456 Rocca Sanvitale 456 rock carvings 830 rock-climbing see climbing Roghudi 751 Roman Baths of Caracalla 70 Roman Empire 34-6 40 35 Roman Forum 114 Rome 89-191 95-110
accommodation 144-50 children travel with 139 clubbing 168-71 cooking 140-2 courses 140-2 discount cards 111 drinking 165-8 entertainment 171-2 festivals 143-4 food 150-65 gay amp lesbian travellers 169 history 90 shopping 172-4 sights 112-39 tourist information 94-111 travel tofrom 174-5 travel within 175-9 walking tours 140 143 141
S Sabaudia 190 Sabbioneta 293 Sacile 402 417-18 Saepinum 630-1 sailing 207 812 861 saints 915 see also individual saints Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci (Chamber
of the Council of 10) 356 salami 594 Salentine Peninsula see Penisola
Salentina Salerno 689-92 689 Salina 783-4 Saline di Trapani 824-5 Salograve 309 Saluzzo 236-8 San Benedetto Po 293 San Carlo Borromeo 298
San Costantino Albanese 741-2 San Daniele del Friuli 402 422-3 San Domino 704 San Francesco di Paola 745 San Fruttuoso 205-6 San Gimignano 544-7 545 San Giorgio 398 San Giorgio Maggiore 365-6 San Giovanni 129-30 San Giovanni in Fiore 748 San Giovanni Rotondo 703 San Marino 473-4 473 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 San Martino in Pensilis 633 San Michele 366 San Nicola 704 San Pantaleo 824 862-3 San Paolo Albanese 741-2 San Pietro in Cariano 397 San Polo 360-1 San Remo 217-19 218 San Siro stadium 276 San Terenzo 214 Sansepolcro 558 Santa Caterina di Pittinuri 852 Santa Caterina di Siena 540 Santa Cecilia 131 Santa Cristina 337-8 Santa Croce 360-1 Santa Margherita 206-7 Santa Maria di Leuca 728 Santa Maria Navarrese 870 Santa Severina 749 Santa Teresa di Gallura 860-1 SantrsquoAgata sui due Golfi 680 SantrsquoAmbrogio di Valpolicella 398 SantrsquoAntioco 847-8 SantrsquoArcangelo 742 Santo Stefano drsquoAveto 208 Santuario della Madonna del Terzito
783 Santuario di San Michele 703 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri 851 Sardinia 184 833-70 834 Sarnano 618 Sarnico 306 Sarto Andrea del 56 Sarzana 214 Sassari 857-9 858 sassi 733 735-6 737 Sauris di Sopra 424 Saviano Roberto 67 68 Savona 215-16 Savonarola Girolamo 42 Scala Santa 129
Signorelli Luca 56 Sila National Park 85 silk 299 303 Sinis Peninsula 851-2 Sirmione 307 308-9 Sistine Chapel 135-6 skiing see also cross-country skiing
Abruzzo 625 Alta Badia 339 340 Aosta 249
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Bormio 336 Breuil-Cervinia 255-6 Camigliatello Silano 748 Campitello Matese 625 631 Campo di Giove 625 Campo Felice 625 Campo Imperatore 625 Cermis ski area 327 Champoluc 256 Cogne 254 Courmayeur 252 Dolomites 314 798 itinerary 32 Lecco 306 Lorica 748 Madonna di Campiglio 322 324-5 Merano 334-5 Milky Way 234 Molise 625 Ovindoli 625 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Passo della Stelvio 336 Pescasseroli 625 Pescocostanzo 625 Piano Battaglia 775 Plan de Corones 341 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 Sella Ronda 329 Stresa 296 Tarvisio 423 Val di Fassa 328 Val di Solda 336 Val Gardena 337 Valle drsquoAosta 247 Valtournenche 256
Spello 586-7 Sperlonga 190 Spilimbergo 418 Spoleto 590-3 591 Spoleto Festival see Festival dei Due
Mondi Spormaggiore 322 sport 71-2 squares see piazza St Benedict 189 St Catherine of Siena 119 St Francis of Assisi 580 582 583 584 St Michael the Archangel 702-3 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 St Peterrsquos Square 132 St Ubaldo 588 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232 Star Wars 659 Steinbeck John 682 Stelvio National Park 85 335-7 Stintino 860 stone towers 851 Strada del Vino Costa degli Etruschi 531 Stradivari Antonio 289 Strait of Messina bridge 789 strawberries 336 Strawberry Festival 336 Stresa 295-7 296 Stromboli 785-6 Studi di Scultura Carlo Nicoli 520 Stupor Mundi see Frederick I
tickets 276 Teatro Greco 791 Teatro La Fenice 357 378 Teatro Olimpico 390 Teatro Rossini 610-11 Teatro San Carlo 70 647 telephone services 884-5 television 62 Tellaro 214 Tempietto 131 163 Tempio di Antas 846 Tempio Malatestiano 470 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Caracalla 130 Terme di Diocleziano 128 Termini 126-9 Termoli 632-3 Terranova di Pollino 742 Tharros 851 The Last Supper 86 265 theatre 71 theft 878 theme parks 471 Theodosius I the Great 39 thermal springs
Colli Eugane 386 Preacute-St-Didier 253 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Rabbi 327 Terme di Saturnia 553 Terme Merano 334
Thomes 867 Tiberius 38 time 885 910 Tintoretto 57 367 tipping 883 Tirolo 335 Tiscali 868 Titian 57 118 Tivoli 181-2 Tizzano Val Parma 457 Todi 578-80 Tolmezzo 424 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes 867 Tomba di Giulietta (Julietrsquos Tomb) 393 Tommaso Filippo 58 Torbole 310-11
Torcello 367 Torgiano 575-6 Torino see Turin Torre Annunziata 86 Torre Branca 265 Torre Civica 237 Torre drsquoArnolfo 486 Torre degli Asinelli 431 Torre del Porticciolo 857 Torre delle Milizie 116 Torre dellrsquoElefante 838 Torre dellrsquoOrologio 357 Torre di Mariano II 849 Torre di San Pancrazio 838 Torre Pendente 523 161 Torre Porta a Terra 854 Torre Troyana o DellrsquoOrologio 244 Tortoligrave 870 Tortora 745 Toula Glacier 252 Tour du Mont Blanc 253 tourist information 885-6 tours
U Uccello Paolo 57 Udine 418-22 420 Uffizi 487-90 491 Ultra Trail Tour du Mont Blanc 252 Umbria 560-99 564 Umbria Jazz 570 Under the Tuscan Sun 558 underground tours 317 649
IND
EX
V
IND
EX
942 I N D E X ( U - W )
Urbino 606-9 607 Ururi 633 Ustica 774 UTMB 252
vaccinations 903 Val Badia 339-41 Val drsquoAveto 208 Val di Fassa 328-9 Val di Fiemme 327 Val di Genova 325 Val di Gressoney 256-8 Val di Magra 214 Val di Non 326 Val di Rabbi 326-7 Val di Solda 336 Val di Sole 326 Val Gardena 337-8 Val Grande National Park 85 Val Martello 336-7 Val Pusteria 341-2 Valcamonica rock drawings 86 Valentinian 39 Valle drsquoAosta 192 194 245-58 246 Valle drsquoAyas 256-8 Valle dei Templi 820 Valle di Chisone 234 Valle di Susa 234 Vallee Blanche 252 Valley of the Temples 820 Vallunga 337 Valnerina the 594-5 Valpolicella 397-8 Valsesia 256-8 802 Valtellina 285 Valtournenche 255-6 Vaneze di Monte 319 vaporetto travel 380-1 Varallo 256 257 Varenna 306 Vasari Giorgio 55 57 Vasograven 319 Vasto 629 Vatican City 131-6 Vatican Museums 133-6 Velia 693 Veneto the 343-400 346 Venice 345-81 348-9 352-3
accommodation 370-3 cafes 375
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
children travel with 369 discount cards 351 drinking 376-7 entertainment 377-8 festivals 369 food 373-6 history 345-7 itineraries 347 shopping 378 379 sights 350-67 tourist information 350 travel tofrom 378-80 travel within 380-1
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Venosa 738-9 Ventimiglia 219-20 Ventotene 190-1 Verbania 298 Vercelli 245 Verdi Giuseppe 457 Verdi Country 456-7 Vernazza 209 Verona 392-7 394 Veronese Paolo 57 Versace Gianni 304 Vespasian 38 Vesuvio National Park 85 Vezio 306 Via Appia Antica 136-9 Via Ferrata delle Bocchette 322 Vibo Valentia 755 Vicenza 388-92 389 vie cave 554 vie ferrate 322 341 Vieste 701-2 701 Villa Adriana 181 Villa Balbianello 304 Villa Borghese 125-6 Villa Capra 390-1 Villa Carlotta 305 Villa Cipressi 306 Villa drsquoEste 181-2 Villa Floridiana 647 Villa Foscari 381 Villa Foscarini Rossi 382 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Kunkler 386 Villa Manin 422 Villa Maseacuter 392 Villa Monastero 306 Villa Pisani Nazionale 381-2 Villa Quintili 138 villa rentals 874-5 Villa Romana del Casale 818
Villa Rufolo 688 Villa Valmarana lsquoai Nanirsquo 390 Villa Welsperg 327 Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari 381 Villasimius 844 vineyards 442
Aosta 249 Barolo 240-1 Greve in Chianti 534 La Morra 240 Valpolicella 398
violins 289 Virgil 66 visas 887-8 see also passports Visconti family 43 Viterbo 184-7 185 Vittoriale degli Italiani il 310 volcanoes 82
waterfalls 311 616 water sports 72 weather 20 876-7 websites see internet resources weights 872 see inside front cover whale-watching 201 Whitaker Joseph 824-5 white-water rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
wildlife 81-4 see also individual animals amp plants
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
language 909-11 emigration 63 Emilia-Romagna 425-73 429 emperors 36-9 endangered species 82-8 Enna 817-18 Ente Lirico Arena di Verona 70 7 environmental issues 84-8 Ercolano 670-2 Erice 828-9 Esquilino (Esquiline) 126-9 Estate Romana 144 172 Este 386 Etruscan history 33-4 Etruscan sites 182-3 553-4 Euganean Hills 386 Eugubian Tablets 587 EUR 138-9 138 Eurochocolate 570 events 25-6 exchange rates see inside front cover
F Faenza 468 Fai della Paganella 322 farmstays 579 Farnese collection 646
Farro 563 fascism 44-6 fashion 173 272 277
courses 497 Fattoria di Celle 514 Favignana 830-1 Fellini Federico 68-9 127 Ferdinando I 494-5 Ferrara 459-63 460 Ferrari 449 ferries
Aeolian Islands 778-9 Bari 711-12 Brindisi 720-1 Elba 531 Lago Maggiore Express 295 Livorno 530 Messina 788-9 Sardinia 184 837 Sicily 757-9 763 tofrom Italy 896 within Italy 897
Festa del Redentore 26 Festa di San Marco 369 Festival dei Due Mondi 592 festivals 25-6 see also individual cities
Biennale di Venezia 369 Carnevale 25 369 chariot races 633 chilli-eating competition 745 Estate Romana 144 172 Eurochocolate 570 Festa del Redentore 26 Festa di San Marco 369 Festa di San Nicola 710 Festival dei Due Mondi 592 food 77-8 International Festival of Undershy
water Activities 774 Le Feste di Pasqua 730 Processione dei Serpari 624 Quintana 615 Ravenna Festival 467 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Sagra del Pesce 205 Salone Internazionale del Gusto
228 Settimana Santa 25 678 Strawberry Festival 336 Turin Book Fair 228 Umbria Jazz 570 Venice International Film
Festival 26 369 Fiabilandia 471 Fiesole 510-12
IND
EX
IN
DEX
932 I N D E X ( F - G )
Filicudi 786-7 film 23 68-9 127 637 759
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Fiumicello 740 Florence 476-510 480-1 484-5 488
accommodation 498-501 cafes 506 children travel with 497-8 entertainment 507-8 festivals 498 food 501-5 gelaterie 505 history 476 itineraries 479 shopping 508-9 sights 480-97 tourist information 479-80 tours 498 travel tofrom 509 travel within 510
Foci del Po 463 Foggia 705 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 fontina 250 food 73-80 880
football 71-2 233 AC Milan 276 corruption 233 Inter Milan 276 Juventus 233 San Siro stadium 276 Stadio Olimpico (Rome) 172 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232
Foresta Umbra 698 Foreste Casentinesi Monte Falterona e
Campigna National Park 85 Formula One 276 Forni di Sopra 424 Fortuny Tessuti Artistici 365 Forza Italia 48 Fossa delle Felci 783 Fossa di Vulcano 781-2 Frarsquo Angelico 52 57 492 Francesca Piero della 57 558 Franciacorta 307 Franciscan sites 583-4 Franco-Austrian War 44 Frascati 188 Frederick I (Barbarossa) Emperor 41-2 Frederick II 705 706 Friuli Venezia Giulia 401-24 404 Fuksas Massimiliano 139 funiculars see cable cars Funtanamare 846 Futurism 58
G Gaius (Caligula) 37 38 Galatina 726 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna e
358-9 galleries see museums amp galleries Gallipoli 728-9 7 Gambarie 751 garbage crisis 48 84 gardens see parks amp gardens Garfagnana the 519 Gargagnano 398 Gargano National Park 85 696-8 Garibaldi Giuseppe 44 823 861
gay travellers 880 Bologna 434 Milan 276 Rome 169
gelato 151 505 gelato-making 678 Gennargentu e Golfo di Orosei
Gentileschi Artemesia 57 490 geography 81 geology 81 Gerace 750 Ghiberti Lorenzo 57 Ghirlandaio Domenico 56 Gianicolo 131 Giara di Gesturi 851 Giardino di Bardini 496 Giardino di Boboli 496 Giotto 51 56 383-5 Giudecca 365 Giulie Alps 423 gladiator school 142 Gola Su Gorruppu 867-8 Golden Quad 277 Gole dellrsquoAlcagraventara 792 golf 234 Golfo Aranci 864 Golfo di Castellammare 829-30 Golfo di Orosei 868-9 Gomorra 67 68 gondolas 367-8 Gorizia 413-14 Gorruppu Gorge see Gola Su
Gorruppu Grado 416 graffiti 866 Gran Paradiso National Park 85
254-5 804 Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga
National Park 85 620 Grand Canal 350-5 grappa 77 Gravedona 305 Gressoney-La-Triniteacute 256 Gressoney-St-Jean 256
I N D E X ( G - I ) 933
Greve in Chianti 534-5 Grotta Azzurra 664 Grotta de Su Mannau 846 Grotta del Bue Marino 868 Grotta del Genoves 830 Grotta dello Smeraldo 686 Grotta di San Giovanni 846 Grotta Gigante 413 Grottaferrata 188 Grotte di Castellana 713 Grotte di Frasassi 611 Gruppo del Sella 329 Gubbio 587-90 588 Guggenheim Peggy 359
H Hadrian 38 39 119 181 hammam 767 hang-gliding
Castelluccio 594 Val Badia 340
haute couture 277 hay baths 340 health 903-5 heli-skiing
Courmayeur 252 Milky Way 234
Hemingway Ernest 295 Herculaneum 86 670-2 671 hiking
Alicudi 786 Alpe di Siusi 338 alte vie 316 Amalfi Coast 681 Apuane Alps 520 Aosta 249 Apennines 457 Baunei 869 Cala Gonone 868 Capri 665 Courmayeur 252-3 Dolomites 314-16 Dorgali 867 Elba 531 Gola Su Gorruppu 867-8 itinerary 32 Lipari 780 Madonna di Campiglio 322
325 Maritime Alps 237 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Milky Way 234 Mt Etna 807 Oliena 866 Pantelleria 831
Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie 775-6
Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e Molise 626 627
Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano 693
Parco Nazionale della Majella 624 Parco Regionale della Maremma
297 Isola Bella (Sicily) 792 Isola Caprera 861-2 Isola della Maddalena 861 Isola Madre 297 Isola Maggiore 577 Isola Polvese 577 Isola San Giulio 294 Isola San Pietro 847-8
IND
EX
934 I N D E X ( I - M )
Isola Superiore (Pescatori) 298
Isole Pelagie 822 Isole Pontine 190-1 Isole Tremiti 704-5 Italia in Miniatura 471 itineraries 27-32
J Janiculum 131 jet lag 904 jewellery design 497 Jewish culture 553 809 Jewish ghetto (Rome) 121-3 Jewish history 362-3 Joyce James 407 Julietrsquos House 393
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Julius Caesar 36-7 90 Juventus 233
K kayaking
Courmayeur 252 Elba 531 533 Val di Sole 326 Varallo 257
kite-surfing Palau 861 Sinis Peninsula 852
L la bella figura 61-2 La Fenice 70 La Garfagnana see Garfagnana the La Magdeleine 255 La Morra 240-1 La Rotonda 390-1 La Scala 264 La Sila 748-9 La Spezia 211-13 212 La vita egrave bella 555 Ladin 337 339 Laghetto di Fanghi 782 Laghi di Fusine 423-4 Lago di Albano 188 Lago di Como 299-306 9 Lago di Garda 307-12 803 Lago di Lesina 701 Lago di Lugano 305 Lago di Nemi 188 Lago di Piano 305 Lago di Varano 701 Lago drsquoIseo 306-7 Lago drsquoOrta 294-5 Lago Lario see Lago di Como Lago Maggiore 295-9 Lago Omedeo Circuit 852-3 Lago Trasimeno 576-8 Laguna di Marano 416 Lampedusa Giuseppe Tomasi di 66 Langhirano 457 language 906-11
Levanzo 830-1 Levi Carlo 67 731 734 739-40 Levi Primo 66 Lido the 366 Lignano 417 Liguria 192-220 196 limoncello 77 Lingotto Fiere 227 Lipari 779-81 Lippi Filippino 56 Lippi Filippo 52 57 495 literature 22-4 65-7 Livorno 528-30 529 Locorotondo 714-15 Lombardy 259-312 260 Lorenzetti brothers 52 56 Loreto 606 Lorica 748 Lovere 307 Lucanian Apennines see Appennino
Lucano Lucca 514-19 515 9 Lucera 705-6
M Macerata 611-13 Machiavelli 67 Madonna di Campiglio 322-6 324 Mafia 48 757 761 Majella National Park 85 624-5 majolica ceramics 576 Malcesine 310 Malvasia wine 781 783 Mamoiada 866 mamuthones 866 Manarola 210 Mani Pulite 48 Manotra see Mantua Mantegna Andrea 53 57 Mantero 303
IND
EX
I N D E X ( M ) 935
Mantua 289-93 290 maps 882 Maranello 449-50 Marano Lagunare 416 Maratea 740-1 marble quarries 520 Marcialonga 328 Marciana Marina 533 Marcus Aurelius 39 Marettimo 830-1 Marina del Cantone 680-1 Marina di Camerota 693 Marina di Carrara 520 Marina di Furore 685 Marina di Massa 520 Marina di Sorso 859 Marinetti Filippo Tommaso 58 Maritime Alps 237 Mark Antony (Marcus Antonius) 37 markets
Ballarograve 766 11 Catania 795 Genoa 203 La Pescheria 795 Mercato del Capo 766 Mercato della Vucciria 766
Marsala 823-4 Martello 336-7 Martina Franca 715-17 Martini Simone 52 56 Masaccio 53 57 497 mask making 367 masseria (manor farm) 716 Masua 846 Matera 733-8 12 mattanza 831 847 Matterhorn 255 Mausoleo di Cecilia Metell 138 Maximilian 412 measures 872 see also inside front
cover medical services 904 see also
health Medici family 43 476 492 494-5 Meier Richard 124 Menaggio 305 Merano 333-5 Mercato di Ballarograve 766 11 Messina 787-9 Messina Bridge project 87 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Metaponto 733 metric conversions see inside front
Milan 260-79 266-9 accommodation 271-3 drinking 274-5 entertainment 275-6 festivals 271 food 273-4 gay amp lesbian travellers 276 shopping 277 sights 263-71 tourist information 263 tours 271 travel tofrom 277-8 travel within 278-9
Milazzo 777-8 Milky Way 234-5 Mille Miglia 449 Miramare 411-12 Mission Impossible III 659 Mithraism 130 mobile phones 885 Modena 446-9 447 Modena Cento Ore 449 Modica 815-16 Moena 328 Molise 619 621 625 629-33 630 Moltrasio 304 Molveno 322 323 Mona Lisa 54 Monastery of St Benedict 189 Moncalvo 244 Mondello 773 money 20-1 882-3 see also inside
front cover discount cards Monferrato 244-5 Monreale 773-4 Monselice 386 Montagnana 386 Montalcino 550-1 Monte Bondone 319 Monte Cassino 189 Monte Isola 307 Monte Ortobene 865 Monte Pellegrino 773 Monte Rocchetta 311 Monte Rosa 256 Monte SantrsquoAngelo 702-4 Monte Ursino 216 Montepulciano 551-2 Monterosso 209 Monti del Matese 631 Monti Ferru 852 Monti Sibillini 85 594-5 616-17
Aosta 249 Cala Gonone 868 Courmayeur 252-3 Milky Way 234 Stresa 296 tours 868 Val Badia 340
mountain huts 874 mountaineering 257
Messner Reinhold 331 332 Mozia 825 Mt Etna 806-8 800 Mt Vesuvius 672-3 mud baths 782 831 Muggia 402 412-13 multiculturalism 62-3 Mundi Stupor 41 Munthe Axel 663 Murano 366-7 Murat Joachim 755 Murgia plateau 713-18 737 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto Adige
331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano 779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale 645 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia
751 Museo Nazionale di San Matteo 525 Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo
Massimo alle Terme 128-9 Museum of Glass 366 museums amp galleries
270-1 Galleria drsquoArte Moderna 361 Galleria dellrsquoAccademia (Florshy
ence) 493 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Antica
(Rome) 123 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna
e Contemporanea (Rome) 126
IND
EX
936 I N D E X ( M - N )
museums amp galleries continued Gallerie dellrsquoAccademia ( Venice)
358-9 Gallerie di Palazzo Leoni Montanshy
ari 390 Keats-Shelley Memorial House 124 MAAM (Museo a Cielo Aperto
dellrsquoArchitettura Moderna) 245 MAXXI art gallery 164 164 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Musei di Strada Nuova 197-8 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto
Adige 331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano
779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Naples) 645-6 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Sardinia) 838 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
dellrsquoUmbria 569 Museo Archeologico Paolo Orsi 811 Museo Civico (Siena) 538 Museo Civico (Vicenza)390 Museo Civico Archeologico
(Bologna) 430 Museo Claudio Faina e Civico 597 Museo Correr 357 Museo del Bargello 490 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo della Fondazione Querini
Stampalia 364 Museo della Scultura
Contemporanea 735-6 Museo della Seta 301 Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni
Sarde 865 Museo dellrsquoAra Pacis 124 158 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo dellrsquoOpera Metropolitana
539 Museo di Capodimonte 648 Museo di Roma 121 Museo di San Marco (Florence)
492 Museo Ebraico 363 Museo Ebraico di Roma 122 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Etrusco Guarnacci 548 Museo Fortuny 358
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Museo Nazionale Archeologico ( Taranto) 730
Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia 751
Museo Nazionale Romano Crypta Balbi 120
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Altemps 120-1
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo alle Terme 128-9
Museo Nazionale Romano Terme di Diocleziano 128
Museo Palatino 113 Museo Walser 256 Museum of Glass 366 Padiglione drsquoArte Contemporanea
accommodation 570-1 courses 570 drinking 572 festivals 570 food 571-2 history 565 language courses 570 shopping 573 sights 568-70 tourist information 567 travel tofrom 573-4 travel within 574-5
Perugia Universitagrave per Stranieri 570 Perugina chocolate factory 569-70 Perugino 56 Pesaro 609-11 Pescara 627-8 Pescasseroli 625 626 Peschici 698-700 Pescocostanzo 624-5 Petralia Soprana 775 Petralia Sottana 775 Petrarch 67 386 Phoenician ruins 825 847 phone cards 885 Piacenza 457-9 Piano Renzo 171-2 Piano Battaglia 775 Piazza Barberini 123-4 Piazza dei Miracoli 86 523-5 Piazza del Popolo 124-8 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Piazza della Repubblica 128-32 Piazza di Spagna 124 Piazza Navona 120 Piazza San Marco 355-7 Piazza San Pietro 132 Piazza Venezia 118-19 Piccione 563 Piedmont 192 194 220-45 221 Pienza 551 Pietagrave 133 Pietra di Bismantova 452 Pietrabbondante 632 Pietrapertosa 740 Pietrasanta 521 Pigra 304
Pila 249 pilgrimage 702-3 Pinacoteca di Brera 270 Pinzolo 324-6 Piombi 356 Pirandello Luigi 67 Pisa 521-8 522 Pisano Giovanni 56 539 Pisano Nicola 51 56 524 Pisciotta 693 Pistoia 512-14 513 Pitigliano 553-4 Pitti family 495-6 Pizzo 755 Plan de Corones 341 planning 20-4 see also itineraries
discount cards plants 83-4 Platamona 859 Plateau Rosa 255-6 256 Po Delta 463-4 poetry 67 Policoro 733 Polignano a Mare 712-13 politics 18-9 64-5 Pollara 783 Parco Nazionale del Pollino
(Basilicata) 85 741-2 Parco Nazionale del Pollino (Calabria)
85 743-5 pollution 84 718 878 Pompeii 86 673-6 Ponte di Calatrava 350 Ponza 190-1 pop music 70-1 popes 39-41 90 132 Popolo della Libertagrave 48 population 62-4 Pordenone 417 Porlezza 305 Porto Cervo 862 Porto Conte 857 Porto Ferro 857 Porto Teulada 845 Porto Torres 860 Porto Venere 213-14 Portocannone 633 Portoferraio 531-3 Portofino 206 Positano 682-4 683 Possagno 392 postal services 883-4 Potenza 739 Pozzuoli 657-8 Praia a Mare 745
I N D E X ( P - S ) 939
Praiano 684-5 Processione dei Serpari 624 Procida 669-72 Promontorio del Gargano 696-704 prosciutto 422-3 458 Prosecco 398-9 Provenzano Bernardo 761 public transport 900 Puglia 696-731 699 Pula 844-5 Punta della Dogana 359-60 Punta Helbronner 253 puppet shows 809 Pythagoras 733
Q Quadrilatero drsquoOro 277 Quintana 615
R Radda in Chianti 536 radio 872 rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
Ragusa 816-17 rail passes 895 Rapallo 207-8 Raphael 56 126 134 135 490 495 Ravello 687-8 Ravenna 464-8 465 Ravenna Festival 467 Red Brigades 47 Refounded Communist Party 47 Regata Storica 369 Reggio di Calabria 751-3 752 Reggio Emilia 450-2 451 religion 64 Remus 34 Renaissance art 53-5 56 57 Repubblica di San Marino 473 responsible travel 21-2
resources 22 Ribera Giuseppe de 57 Rimini 468-73 469 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Riola Sardo 852 Riomaggiore 210 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822 Riva 311 Riva del Garda 311 Rivello 740-1 Riviera di Levante 205-14
Riviera di Ponente 215-20 road distance chart 899 Robbia Andrea della 57 Rocca Meli Lupi 456 Rocca Sanvitale 456 rock carvings 830 rock-climbing see climbing Roghudi 751 Roman Baths of Caracalla 70 Roman Empire 34-6 40 35 Roman Forum 114 Rome 89-191 95-110
accommodation 144-50 children travel with 139 clubbing 168-71 cooking 140-2 courses 140-2 discount cards 111 drinking 165-8 entertainment 171-2 festivals 143-4 food 150-65 gay amp lesbian travellers 169 history 90 shopping 172-4 sights 112-39 tourist information 94-111 travel tofrom 174-5 travel within 175-9 walking tours 140 143 141
S Sabaudia 190 Sabbioneta 293 Sacile 402 417-18 Saepinum 630-1 sailing 207 812 861 saints 915 see also individual saints Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci (Chamber
of the Council of 10) 356 salami 594 Salentine Peninsula see Penisola
Salentina Salerno 689-92 689 Salina 783-4 Saline di Trapani 824-5 Salograve 309 Saluzzo 236-8 San Benedetto Po 293 San Carlo Borromeo 298
San Costantino Albanese 741-2 San Daniele del Friuli 402 422-3 San Domino 704 San Francesco di Paola 745 San Fruttuoso 205-6 San Gimignano 544-7 545 San Giorgio 398 San Giorgio Maggiore 365-6 San Giovanni 129-30 San Giovanni in Fiore 748 San Giovanni Rotondo 703 San Marino 473-4 473 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 San Martino in Pensilis 633 San Michele 366 San Nicola 704 San Pantaleo 824 862-3 San Paolo Albanese 741-2 San Pietro in Cariano 397 San Polo 360-1 San Remo 217-19 218 San Siro stadium 276 San Terenzo 214 Sansepolcro 558 Santa Caterina di Pittinuri 852 Santa Caterina di Siena 540 Santa Cecilia 131 Santa Cristina 337-8 Santa Croce 360-1 Santa Margherita 206-7 Santa Maria di Leuca 728 Santa Maria Navarrese 870 Santa Severina 749 Santa Teresa di Gallura 860-1 SantrsquoAgata sui due Golfi 680 SantrsquoAmbrogio di Valpolicella 398 SantrsquoAntioco 847-8 SantrsquoArcangelo 742 Santo Stefano drsquoAveto 208 Santuario della Madonna del Terzito
783 Santuario di San Michele 703 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri 851 Sardinia 184 833-70 834 Sarnano 618 Sarnico 306 Sarto Andrea del 56 Sarzana 214 Sassari 857-9 858 sassi 733 735-6 737 Sauris di Sopra 424 Saviano Roberto 67 68 Savona 215-16 Savonarola Girolamo 42 Scala Santa 129
Signorelli Luca 56 Sila National Park 85 silk 299 303 Sinis Peninsula 851-2 Sirmione 307 308-9 Sistine Chapel 135-6 skiing see also cross-country skiing
Abruzzo 625 Alta Badia 339 340 Aosta 249
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Bormio 336 Breuil-Cervinia 255-6 Camigliatello Silano 748 Campitello Matese 625 631 Campo di Giove 625 Campo Felice 625 Campo Imperatore 625 Cermis ski area 327 Champoluc 256 Cogne 254 Courmayeur 252 Dolomites 314 798 itinerary 32 Lecco 306 Lorica 748 Madonna di Campiglio 322 324-5 Merano 334-5 Milky Way 234 Molise 625 Ovindoli 625 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Passo della Stelvio 336 Pescasseroli 625 Pescocostanzo 625 Piano Battaglia 775 Plan de Corones 341 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 Sella Ronda 329 Stresa 296 Tarvisio 423 Val di Fassa 328 Val di Solda 336 Val Gardena 337 Valle drsquoAosta 247 Valtournenche 256
Spello 586-7 Sperlonga 190 Spilimbergo 418 Spoleto 590-3 591 Spoleto Festival see Festival dei Due
Mondi Spormaggiore 322 sport 71-2 squares see piazza St Benedict 189 St Catherine of Siena 119 St Francis of Assisi 580 582 583 584 St Michael the Archangel 702-3 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 St Peterrsquos Square 132 St Ubaldo 588 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232 Star Wars 659 Steinbeck John 682 Stelvio National Park 85 335-7 Stintino 860 stone towers 851 Strada del Vino Costa degli Etruschi 531 Stradivari Antonio 289 Strait of Messina bridge 789 strawberries 336 Strawberry Festival 336 Stresa 295-7 296 Stromboli 785-6 Studi di Scultura Carlo Nicoli 520 Stupor Mundi see Frederick I
tickets 276 Teatro Greco 791 Teatro La Fenice 357 378 Teatro Olimpico 390 Teatro Rossini 610-11 Teatro San Carlo 70 647 telephone services 884-5 television 62 Tellaro 214 Tempietto 131 163 Tempio di Antas 846 Tempio Malatestiano 470 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Caracalla 130 Terme di Diocleziano 128 Termini 126-9 Termoli 632-3 Terranova di Pollino 742 Tharros 851 The Last Supper 86 265 theatre 71 theft 878 theme parks 471 Theodosius I the Great 39 thermal springs
Colli Eugane 386 Preacute-St-Didier 253 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Rabbi 327 Terme di Saturnia 553 Terme Merano 334
Thomes 867 Tiberius 38 time 885 910 Tintoretto 57 367 tipping 883 Tirolo 335 Tiscali 868 Titian 57 118 Tivoli 181-2 Tizzano Val Parma 457 Todi 578-80 Tolmezzo 424 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes 867 Tomba di Giulietta (Julietrsquos Tomb) 393 Tommaso Filippo 58 Torbole 310-11
Torcello 367 Torgiano 575-6 Torino see Turin Torre Annunziata 86 Torre Branca 265 Torre Civica 237 Torre drsquoArnolfo 486 Torre degli Asinelli 431 Torre del Porticciolo 857 Torre delle Milizie 116 Torre dellrsquoElefante 838 Torre dellrsquoOrologio 357 Torre di Mariano II 849 Torre di San Pancrazio 838 Torre Pendente 523 161 Torre Porta a Terra 854 Torre Troyana o DellrsquoOrologio 244 Tortoligrave 870 Tortora 745 Toula Glacier 252 Tour du Mont Blanc 253 tourist information 885-6 tours
U Uccello Paolo 57 Udine 418-22 420 Uffizi 487-90 491 Ultra Trail Tour du Mont Blanc 252 Umbria 560-99 564 Umbria Jazz 570 Under the Tuscan Sun 558 underground tours 317 649
IND
EX
V
IND
EX
942 I N D E X ( U - W )
Urbino 606-9 607 Ururi 633 Ustica 774 UTMB 252
vaccinations 903 Val Badia 339-41 Val drsquoAveto 208 Val di Fassa 328-9 Val di Fiemme 327 Val di Genova 325 Val di Gressoney 256-8 Val di Magra 214 Val di Non 326 Val di Rabbi 326-7 Val di Solda 336 Val di Sole 326 Val Gardena 337-8 Val Grande National Park 85 Val Martello 336-7 Val Pusteria 341-2 Valcamonica rock drawings 86 Valentinian 39 Valle drsquoAosta 192 194 245-58 246 Valle drsquoAyas 256-8 Valle dei Templi 820 Valle di Chisone 234 Valle di Susa 234 Vallee Blanche 252 Valley of the Temples 820 Vallunga 337 Valnerina the 594-5 Valpolicella 397-8 Valsesia 256-8 802 Valtellina 285 Valtournenche 255-6 Vaneze di Monte 319 vaporetto travel 380-1 Varallo 256 257 Varenna 306 Vasari Giorgio 55 57 Vasograven 319 Vasto 629 Vatican City 131-6 Vatican Museums 133-6 Velia 693 Veneto the 343-400 346 Venice 345-81 348-9 352-3
accommodation 370-3 cafes 375
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
children travel with 369 discount cards 351 drinking 376-7 entertainment 377-8 festivals 369 food 373-6 history 345-7 itineraries 347 shopping 378 379 sights 350-67 tourist information 350 travel tofrom 378-80 travel within 380-1
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Venosa 738-9 Ventimiglia 219-20 Ventotene 190-1 Verbania 298 Vercelli 245 Verdi Giuseppe 457 Verdi Country 456-7 Vernazza 209 Verona 392-7 394 Veronese Paolo 57 Versace Gianni 304 Vespasian 38 Vesuvio National Park 85 Vezio 306 Via Appia Antica 136-9 Via Ferrata delle Bocchette 322 Vibo Valentia 755 Vicenza 388-92 389 vie cave 554 vie ferrate 322 341 Vieste 701-2 701 Villa Adriana 181 Villa Balbianello 304 Villa Borghese 125-6 Villa Capra 390-1 Villa Carlotta 305 Villa Cipressi 306 Villa drsquoEste 181-2 Villa Floridiana 647 Villa Foscari 381 Villa Foscarini Rossi 382 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Kunkler 386 Villa Manin 422 Villa Maseacuter 392 Villa Monastero 306 Villa Pisani Nazionale 381-2 Villa Quintili 138 villa rentals 874-5 Villa Romana del Casale 818
Villa Rufolo 688 Villa Valmarana lsquoai Nanirsquo 390 Villa Welsperg 327 Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari 381 Villasimius 844 vineyards 442
Aosta 249 Barolo 240-1 Greve in Chianti 534 La Morra 240 Valpolicella 398
violins 289 Virgil 66 visas 887-8 see also passports Visconti family 43 Viterbo 184-7 185 Vittoriale degli Italiani il 310 volcanoes 82
waterfalls 311 616 water sports 72 weather 20 876-7 websites see internet resources weights 872 see inside front cover whale-watching 201 Whitaker Joseph 824-5 white-water rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
wildlife 81-4 see also individual animals amp plants
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
football 71-2 233 AC Milan 276 corruption 233 Inter Milan 276 Juventus 233 San Siro stadium 276 Stadio Olimpico (Rome) 172 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232
Foresta Umbra 698 Foreste Casentinesi Monte Falterona e
Campigna National Park 85 Formula One 276 Forni di Sopra 424 Fortuny Tessuti Artistici 365 Forza Italia 48 Fossa delle Felci 783 Fossa di Vulcano 781-2 Frarsquo Angelico 52 57 492 Francesca Piero della 57 558 Franciacorta 307 Franciscan sites 583-4 Franco-Austrian War 44 Frascati 188 Frederick I (Barbarossa) Emperor 41-2 Frederick II 705 706 Friuli Venezia Giulia 401-24 404 Fuksas Massimiliano 139 funiculars see cable cars Funtanamare 846 Futurism 58
G Gaius (Caligula) 37 38 Galatina 726 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna e
358-9 galleries see museums amp galleries Gallipoli 728-9 7 Gambarie 751 garbage crisis 48 84 gardens see parks amp gardens Garfagnana the 519 Gargagnano 398 Gargano National Park 85 696-8 Garibaldi Giuseppe 44 823 861
gay travellers 880 Bologna 434 Milan 276 Rome 169
gelato 151 505 gelato-making 678 Gennargentu e Golfo di Orosei
Gentileschi Artemesia 57 490 geography 81 geology 81 Gerace 750 Ghiberti Lorenzo 57 Ghirlandaio Domenico 56 Gianicolo 131 Giara di Gesturi 851 Giardino di Bardini 496 Giardino di Boboli 496 Giotto 51 56 383-5 Giudecca 365 Giulie Alps 423 gladiator school 142 Gola Su Gorruppu 867-8 Golden Quad 277 Gole dellrsquoAlcagraventara 792 golf 234 Golfo Aranci 864 Golfo di Castellammare 829-30 Golfo di Orosei 868-9 Gomorra 67 68 gondolas 367-8 Gorizia 413-14 Gorruppu Gorge see Gola Su
Gorruppu Grado 416 graffiti 866 Gran Paradiso National Park 85
254-5 804 Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga
National Park 85 620 Grand Canal 350-5 grappa 77 Gravedona 305 Gressoney-La-Triniteacute 256 Gressoney-St-Jean 256
I N D E X ( G - I ) 933
Greve in Chianti 534-5 Grotta Azzurra 664 Grotta de Su Mannau 846 Grotta del Bue Marino 868 Grotta del Genoves 830 Grotta dello Smeraldo 686 Grotta di San Giovanni 846 Grotta Gigante 413 Grottaferrata 188 Grotte di Castellana 713 Grotte di Frasassi 611 Gruppo del Sella 329 Gubbio 587-90 588 Guggenheim Peggy 359
H Hadrian 38 39 119 181 hammam 767 hang-gliding
Castelluccio 594 Val Badia 340
haute couture 277 hay baths 340 health 903-5 heli-skiing
Courmayeur 252 Milky Way 234
Hemingway Ernest 295 Herculaneum 86 670-2 671 hiking
Alicudi 786 Alpe di Siusi 338 alte vie 316 Amalfi Coast 681 Apuane Alps 520 Aosta 249 Apennines 457 Baunei 869 Cala Gonone 868 Capri 665 Courmayeur 252-3 Dolomites 314-16 Dorgali 867 Elba 531 Gola Su Gorruppu 867-8 itinerary 32 Lipari 780 Madonna di Campiglio 322
325 Maritime Alps 237 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Milky Way 234 Mt Etna 807 Oliena 866 Pantelleria 831
Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie 775-6
Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e Molise 626 627
Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano 693
Parco Nazionale della Majella 624 Parco Regionale della Maremma
297 Isola Bella (Sicily) 792 Isola Caprera 861-2 Isola della Maddalena 861 Isola Madre 297 Isola Maggiore 577 Isola Polvese 577 Isola San Giulio 294 Isola San Pietro 847-8
IND
EX
934 I N D E X ( I - M )
Isola Superiore (Pescatori) 298
Isole Pelagie 822 Isole Pontine 190-1 Isole Tremiti 704-5 Italia in Miniatura 471 itineraries 27-32
J Janiculum 131 jet lag 904 jewellery design 497 Jewish culture 553 809 Jewish ghetto (Rome) 121-3 Jewish history 362-3 Joyce James 407 Julietrsquos House 393
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Julius Caesar 36-7 90 Juventus 233
K kayaking
Courmayeur 252 Elba 531 533 Val di Sole 326 Varallo 257
kite-surfing Palau 861 Sinis Peninsula 852
L la bella figura 61-2 La Fenice 70 La Garfagnana see Garfagnana the La Magdeleine 255 La Morra 240-1 La Rotonda 390-1 La Scala 264 La Sila 748-9 La Spezia 211-13 212 La vita egrave bella 555 Ladin 337 339 Laghetto di Fanghi 782 Laghi di Fusine 423-4 Lago di Albano 188 Lago di Como 299-306 9 Lago di Garda 307-12 803 Lago di Lesina 701 Lago di Lugano 305 Lago di Nemi 188 Lago di Piano 305 Lago di Varano 701 Lago drsquoIseo 306-7 Lago drsquoOrta 294-5 Lago Lario see Lago di Como Lago Maggiore 295-9 Lago Omedeo Circuit 852-3 Lago Trasimeno 576-8 Laguna di Marano 416 Lampedusa Giuseppe Tomasi di 66 Langhirano 457 language 906-11
Levanzo 830-1 Levi Carlo 67 731 734 739-40 Levi Primo 66 Lido the 366 Lignano 417 Liguria 192-220 196 limoncello 77 Lingotto Fiere 227 Lipari 779-81 Lippi Filippino 56 Lippi Filippo 52 57 495 literature 22-4 65-7 Livorno 528-30 529 Locorotondo 714-15 Lombardy 259-312 260 Lorenzetti brothers 52 56 Loreto 606 Lorica 748 Lovere 307 Lucanian Apennines see Appennino
Lucano Lucca 514-19 515 9 Lucera 705-6
M Macerata 611-13 Machiavelli 67 Madonna di Campiglio 322-6 324 Mafia 48 757 761 Majella National Park 85 624-5 majolica ceramics 576 Malcesine 310 Malvasia wine 781 783 Mamoiada 866 mamuthones 866 Manarola 210 Mani Pulite 48 Manotra see Mantua Mantegna Andrea 53 57 Mantero 303
IND
EX
I N D E X ( M ) 935
Mantua 289-93 290 maps 882 Maranello 449-50 Marano Lagunare 416 Maratea 740-1 marble quarries 520 Marcialonga 328 Marciana Marina 533 Marcus Aurelius 39 Marettimo 830-1 Marina del Cantone 680-1 Marina di Camerota 693 Marina di Carrara 520 Marina di Furore 685 Marina di Massa 520 Marina di Sorso 859 Marinetti Filippo Tommaso 58 Maritime Alps 237 Mark Antony (Marcus Antonius) 37 markets
Ballarograve 766 11 Catania 795 Genoa 203 La Pescheria 795 Mercato del Capo 766 Mercato della Vucciria 766
Marsala 823-4 Martello 336-7 Martina Franca 715-17 Martini Simone 52 56 Masaccio 53 57 497 mask making 367 masseria (manor farm) 716 Masua 846 Matera 733-8 12 mattanza 831 847 Matterhorn 255 Mausoleo di Cecilia Metell 138 Maximilian 412 measures 872 see also inside front
cover medical services 904 see also
health Medici family 43 476 492 494-5 Meier Richard 124 Menaggio 305 Merano 333-5 Mercato di Ballarograve 766 11 Messina 787-9 Messina Bridge project 87 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Metaponto 733 metric conversions see inside front
Milan 260-79 266-9 accommodation 271-3 drinking 274-5 entertainment 275-6 festivals 271 food 273-4 gay amp lesbian travellers 276 shopping 277 sights 263-71 tourist information 263 tours 271 travel tofrom 277-8 travel within 278-9
Milazzo 777-8 Milky Way 234-5 Mille Miglia 449 Miramare 411-12 Mission Impossible III 659 Mithraism 130 mobile phones 885 Modena 446-9 447 Modena Cento Ore 449 Modica 815-16 Moena 328 Molise 619 621 625 629-33 630 Moltrasio 304 Molveno 322 323 Mona Lisa 54 Monastery of St Benedict 189 Moncalvo 244 Mondello 773 money 20-1 882-3 see also inside
front cover discount cards Monferrato 244-5 Monreale 773-4 Monselice 386 Montagnana 386 Montalcino 550-1 Monte Bondone 319 Monte Cassino 189 Monte Isola 307 Monte Ortobene 865 Monte Pellegrino 773 Monte Rocchetta 311 Monte Rosa 256 Monte SantrsquoAngelo 702-4 Monte Ursino 216 Montepulciano 551-2 Monterosso 209 Monti del Matese 631 Monti Ferru 852 Monti Sibillini 85 594-5 616-17
Aosta 249 Cala Gonone 868 Courmayeur 252-3 Milky Way 234 Stresa 296 tours 868 Val Badia 340
mountain huts 874 mountaineering 257
Messner Reinhold 331 332 Mozia 825 Mt Etna 806-8 800 Mt Vesuvius 672-3 mud baths 782 831 Muggia 402 412-13 multiculturalism 62-3 Mundi Stupor 41 Munthe Axel 663 Murano 366-7 Murat Joachim 755 Murgia plateau 713-18 737 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto Adige
331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano 779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale 645 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia
751 Museo Nazionale di San Matteo 525 Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo
Massimo alle Terme 128-9 Museum of Glass 366 museums amp galleries
270-1 Galleria drsquoArte Moderna 361 Galleria dellrsquoAccademia (Florshy
ence) 493 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Antica
(Rome) 123 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna
e Contemporanea (Rome) 126
IND
EX
936 I N D E X ( M - N )
museums amp galleries continued Gallerie dellrsquoAccademia ( Venice)
358-9 Gallerie di Palazzo Leoni Montanshy
ari 390 Keats-Shelley Memorial House 124 MAAM (Museo a Cielo Aperto
dellrsquoArchitettura Moderna) 245 MAXXI art gallery 164 164 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Musei di Strada Nuova 197-8 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto
Adige 331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano
779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Naples) 645-6 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Sardinia) 838 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
dellrsquoUmbria 569 Museo Archeologico Paolo Orsi 811 Museo Civico (Siena) 538 Museo Civico (Vicenza)390 Museo Civico Archeologico
(Bologna) 430 Museo Claudio Faina e Civico 597 Museo Correr 357 Museo del Bargello 490 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo della Fondazione Querini
Stampalia 364 Museo della Scultura
Contemporanea 735-6 Museo della Seta 301 Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni
Sarde 865 Museo dellrsquoAra Pacis 124 158 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo dellrsquoOpera Metropolitana
539 Museo di Capodimonte 648 Museo di Roma 121 Museo di San Marco (Florence)
492 Museo Ebraico 363 Museo Ebraico di Roma 122 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Etrusco Guarnacci 548 Museo Fortuny 358
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Museo Nazionale Archeologico ( Taranto) 730
Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia 751
Museo Nazionale Romano Crypta Balbi 120
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Altemps 120-1
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo alle Terme 128-9
Museo Nazionale Romano Terme di Diocleziano 128
Museo Palatino 113 Museo Walser 256 Museum of Glass 366 Padiglione drsquoArte Contemporanea
accommodation 570-1 courses 570 drinking 572 festivals 570 food 571-2 history 565 language courses 570 shopping 573 sights 568-70 tourist information 567 travel tofrom 573-4 travel within 574-5
Perugia Universitagrave per Stranieri 570 Perugina chocolate factory 569-70 Perugino 56 Pesaro 609-11 Pescara 627-8 Pescasseroli 625 626 Peschici 698-700 Pescocostanzo 624-5 Petralia Soprana 775 Petralia Sottana 775 Petrarch 67 386 Phoenician ruins 825 847 phone cards 885 Piacenza 457-9 Piano Renzo 171-2 Piano Battaglia 775 Piazza Barberini 123-4 Piazza dei Miracoli 86 523-5 Piazza del Popolo 124-8 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Piazza della Repubblica 128-32 Piazza di Spagna 124 Piazza Navona 120 Piazza San Marco 355-7 Piazza San Pietro 132 Piazza Venezia 118-19 Piccione 563 Piedmont 192 194 220-45 221 Pienza 551 Pietagrave 133 Pietra di Bismantova 452 Pietrabbondante 632 Pietrapertosa 740 Pietrasanta 521 Pigra 304
Pila 249 pilgrimage 702-3 Pinacoteca di Brera 270 Pinzolo 324-6 Piombi 356 Pirandello Luigi 67 Pisa 521-8 522 Pisano Giovanni 56 539 Pisano Nicola 51 56 524 Pisciotta 693 Pistoia 512-14 513 Pitigliano 553-4 Pitti family 495-6 Pizzo 755 Plan de Corones 341 planning 20-4 see also itineraries
discount cards plants 83-4 Platamona 859 Plateau Rosa 255-6 256 Po Delta 463-4 poetry 67 Policoro 733 Polignano a Mare 712-13 politics 18-9 64-5 Pollara 783 Parco Nazionale del Pollino
(Basilicata) 85 741-2 Parco Nazionale del Pollino (Calabria)
85 743-5 pollution 84 718 878 Pompeii 86 673-6 Ponte di Calatrava 350 Ponza 190-1 pop music 70-1 popes 39-41 90 132 Popolo della Libertagrave 48 population 62-4 Pordenone 417 Porlezza 305 Porto Cervo 862 Porto Conte 857 Porto Ferro 857 Porto Teulada 845 Porto Torres 860 Porto Venere 213-14 Portocannone 633 Portoferraio 531-3 Portofino 206 Positano 682-4 683 Possagno 392 postal services 883-4 Potenza 739 Pozzuoli 657-8 Praia a Mare 745
I N D E X ( P - S ) 939
Praiano 684-5 Processione dei Serpari 624 Procida 669-72 Promontorio del Gargano 696-704 prosciutto 422-3 458 Prosecco 398-9 Provenzano Bernardo 761 public transport 900 Puglia 696-731 699 Pula 844-5 Punta della Dogana 359-60 Punta Helbronner 253 puppet shows 809 Pythagoras 733
Q Quadrilatero drsquoOro 277 Quintana 615
R Radda in Chianti 536 radio 872 rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
Ragusa 816-17 rail passes 895 Rapallo 207-8 Raphael 56 126 134 135 490 495 Ravello 687-8 Ravenna 464-8 465 Ravenna Festival 467 Red Brigades 47 Refounded Communist Party 47 Regata Storica 369 Reggio di Calabria 751-3 752 Reggio Emilia 450-2 451 religion 64 Remus 34 Renaissance art 53-5 56 57 Repubblica di San Marino 473 responsible travel 21-2
resources 22 Ribera Giuseppe de 57 Rimini 468-73 469 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Riola Sardo 852 Riomaggiore 210 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822 Riva 311 Riva del Garda 311 Rivello 740-1 Riviera di Levante 205-14
Riviera di Ponente 215-20 road distance chart 899 Robbia Andrea della 57 Rocca Meli Lupi 456 Rocca Sanvitale 456 rock carvings 830 rock-climbing see climbing Roghudi 751 Roman Baths of Caracalla 70 Roman Empire 34-6 40 35 Roman Forum 114 Rome 89-191 95-110
accommodation 144-50 children travel with 139 clubbing 168-71 cooking 140-2 courses 140-2 discount cards 111 drinking 165-8 entertainment 171-2 festivals 143-4 food 150-65 gay amp lesbian travellers 169 history 90 shopping 172-4 sights 112-39 tourist information 94-111 travel tofrom 174-5 travel within 175-9 walking tours 140 143 141
S Sabaudia 190 Sabbioneta 293 Sacile 402 417-18 Saepinum 630-1 sailing 207 812 861 saints 915 see also individual saints Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci (Chamber
of the Council of 10) 356 salami 594 Salentine Peninsula see Penisola
Salentina Salerno 689-92 689 Salina 783-4 Saline di Trapani 824-5 Salograve 309 Saluzzo 236-8 San Benedetto Po 293 San Carlo Borromeo 298
San Costantino Albanese 741-2 San Daniele del Friuli 402 422-3 San Domino 704 San Francesco di Paola 745 San Fruttuoso 205-6 San Gimignano 544-7 545 San Giorgio 398 San Giorgio Maggiore 365-6 San Giovanni 129-30 San Giovanni in Fiore 748 San Giovanni Rotondo 703 San Marino 473-4 473 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 San Martino in Pensilis 633 San Michele 366 San Nicola 704 San Pantaleo 824 862-3 San Paolo Albanese 741-2 San Pietro in Cariano 397 San Polo 360-1 San Remo 217-19 218 San Siro stadium 276 San Terenzo 214 Sansepolcro 558 Santa Caterina di Pittinuri 852 Santa Caterina di Siena 540 Santa Cecilia 131 Santa Cristina 337-8 Santa Croce 360-1 Santa Margherita 206-7 Santa Maria di Leuca 728 Santa Maria Navarrese 870 Santa Severina 749 Santa Teresa di Gallura 860-1 SantrsquoAgata sui due Golfi 680 SantrsquoAmbrogio di Valpolicella 398 SantrsquoAntioco 847-8 SantrsquoArcangelo 742 Santo Stefano drsquoAveto 208 Santuario della Madonna del Terzito
783 Santuario di San Michele 703 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri 851 Sardinia 184 833-70 834 Sarnano 618 Sarnico 306 Sarto Andrea del 56 Sarzana 214 Sassari 857-9 858 sassi 733 735-6 737 Sauris di Sopra 424 Saviano Roberto 67 68 Savona 215-16 Savonarola Girolamo 42 Scala Santa 129
Signorelli Luca 56 Sila National Park 85 silk 299 303 Sinis Peninsula 851-2 Sirmione 307 308-9 Sistine Chapel 135-6 skiing see also cross-country skiing
Abruzzo 625 Alta Badia 339 340 Aosta 249
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Bormio 336 Breuil-Cervinia 255-6 Camigliatello Silano 748 Campitello Matese 625 631 Campo di Giove 625 Campo Felice 625 Campo Imperatore 625 Cermis ski area 327 Champoluc 256 Cogne 254 Courmayeur 252 Dolomites 314 798 itinerary 32 Lecco 306 Lorica 748 Madonna di Campiglio 322 324-5 Merano 334-5 Milky Way 234 Molise 625 Ovindoli 625 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Passo della Stelvio 336 Pescasseroli 625 Pescocostanzo 625 Piano Battaglia 775 Plan de Corones 341 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 Sella Ronda 329 Stresa 296 Tarvisio 423 Val di Fassa 328 Val di Solda 336 Val Gardena 337 Valle drsquoAosta 247 Valtournenche 256
Spello 586-7 Sperlonga 190 Spilimbergo 418 Spoleto 590-3 591 Spoleto Festival see Festival dei Due
Mondi Spormaggiore 322 sport 71-2 squares see piazza St Benedict 189 St Catherine of Siena 119 St Francis of Assisi 580 582 583 584 St Michael the Archangel 702-3 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 St Peterrsquos Square 132 St Ubaldo 588 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232 Star Wars 659 Steinbeck John 682 Stelvio National Park 85 335-7 Stintino 860 stone towers 851 Strada del Vino Costa degli Etruschi 531 Stradivari Antonio 289 Strait of Messina bridge 789 strawberries 336 Strawberry Festival 336 Stresa 295-7 296 Stromboli 785-6 Studi di Scultura Carlo Nicoli 520 Stupor Mundi see Frederick I
tickets 276 Teatro Greco 791 Teatro La Fenice 357 378 Teatro Olimpico 390 Teatro Rossini 610-11 Teatro San Carlo 70 647 telephone services 884-5 television 62 Tellaro 214 Tempietto 131 163 Tempio di Antas 846 Tempio Malatestiano 470 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Caracalla 130 Terme di Diocleziano 128 Termini 126-9 Termoli 632-3 Terranova di Pollino 742 Tharros 851 The Last Supper 86 265 theatre 71 theft 878 theme parks 471 Theodosius I the Great 39 thermal springs
Colli Eugane 386 Preacute-St-Didier 253 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Rabbi 327 Terme di Saturnia 553 Terme Merano 334
Thomes 867 Tiberius 38 time 885 910 Tintoretto 57 367 tipping 883 Tirolo 335 Tiscali 868 Titian 57 118 Tivoli 181-2 Tizzano Val Parma 457 Todi 578-80 Tolmezzo 424 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes 867 Tomba di Giulietta (Julietrsquos Tomb) 393 Tommaso Filippo 58 Torbole 310-11
Torcello 367 Torgiano 575-6 Torino see Turin Torre Annunziata 86 Torre Branca 265 Torre Civica 237 Torre drsquoArnolfo 486 Torre degli Asinelli 431 Torre del Porticciolo 857 Torre delle Milizie 116 Torre dellrsquoElefante 838 Torre dellrsquoOrologio 357 Torre di Mariano II 849 Torre di San Pancrazio 838 Torre Pendente 523 161 Torre Porta a Terra 854 Torre Troyana o DellrsquoOrologio 244 Tortoligrave 870 Tortora 745 Toula Glacier 252 Tour du Mont Blanc 253 tourist information 885-6 tours
U Uccello Paolo 57 Udine 418-22 420 Uffizi 487-90 491 Ultra Trail Tour du Mont Blanc 252 Umbria 560-99 564 Umbria Jazz 570 Under the Tuscan Sun 558 underground tours 317 649
IND
EX
V
IND
EX
942 I N D E X ( U - W )
Urbino 606-9 607 Ururi 633 Ustica 774 UTMB 252
vaccinations 903 Val Badia 339-41 Val drsquoAveto 208 Val di Fassa 328-9 Val di Fiemme 327 Val di Genova 325 Val di Gressoney 256-8 Val di Magra 214 Val di Non 326 Val di Rabbi 326-7 Val di Solda 336 Val di Sole 326 Val Gardena 337-8 Val Grande National Park 85 Val Martello 336-7 Val Pusteria 341-2 Valcamonica rock drawings 86 Valentinian 39 Valle drsquoAosta 192 194 245-58 246 Valle drsquoAyas 256-8 Valle dei Templi 820 Valle di Chisone 234 Valle di Susa 234 Vallee Blanche 252 Valley of the Temples 820 Vallunga 337 Valnerina the 594-5 Valpolicella 397-8 Valsesia 256-8 802 Valtellina 285 Valtournenche 255-6 Vaneze di Monte 319 vaporetto travel 380-1 Varallo 256 257 Varenna 306 Vasari Giorgio 55 57 Vasograven 319 Vasto 629 Vatican City 131-6 Vatican Museums 133-6 Velia 693 Veneto the 343-400 346 Venice 345-81 348-9 352-3
accommodation 370-3 cafes 375
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
children travel with 369 discount cards 351 drinking 376-7 entertainment 377-8 festivals 369 food 373-6 history 345-7 itineraries 347 shopping 378 379 sights 350-67 tourist information 350 travel tofrom 378-80 travel within 380-1
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Venosa 738-9 Ventimiglia 219-20 Ventotene 190-1 Verbania 298 Vercelli 245 Verdi Giuseppe 457 Verdi Country 456-7 Vernazza 209 Verona 392-7 394 Veronese Paolo 57 Versace Gianni 304 Vespasian 38 Vesuvio National Park 85 Vezio 306 Via Appia Antica 136-9 Via Ferrata delle Bocchette 322 Vibo Valentia 755 Vicenza 388-92 389 vie cave 554 vie ferrate 322 341 Vieste 701-2 701 Villa Adriana 181 Villa Balbianello 304 Villa Borghese 125-6 Villa Capra 390-1 Villa Carlotta 305 Villa Cipressi 306 Villa drsquoEste 181-2 Villa Floridiana 647 Villa Foscari 381 Villa Foscarini Rossi 382 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Kunkler 386 Villa Manin 422 Villa Maseacuter 392 Villa Monastero 306 Villa Pisani Nazionale 381-2 Villa Quintili 138 villa rentals 874-5 Villa Romana del Casale 818
Villa Rufolo 688 Villa Valmarana lsquoai Nanirsquo 390 Villa Welsperg 327 Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari 381 Villasimius 844 vineyards 442
Aosta 249 Barolo 240-1 Greve in Chianti 534 La Morra 240 Valpolicella 398
violins 289 Virgil 66 visas 887-8 see also passports Visconti family 43 Viterbo 184-7 185 Vittoriale degli Italiani il 310 volcanoes 82
waterfalls 311 616 water sports 72 weather 20 876-7 websites see internet resources weights 872 see inside front cover whale-watching 201 Whitaker Joseph 824-5 white-water rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
wildlife 81-4 see also individual animals amp plants
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
Greve in Chianti 534-5 Grotta Azzurra 664 Grotta de Su Mannau 846 Grotta del Bue Marino 868 Grotta del Genoves 830 Grotta dello Smeraldo 686 Grotta di San Giovanni 846 Grotta Gigante 413 Grottaferrata 188 Grotte di Castellana 713 Grotte di Frasassi 611 Gruppo del Sella 329 Gubbio 587-90 588 Guggenheim Peggy 359
H Hadrian 38 39 119 181 hammam 767 hang-gliding
Castelluccio 594 Val Badia 340
haute couture 277 hay baths 340 health 903-5 heli-skiing
Courmayeur 252 Milky Way 234
Hemingway Ernest 295 Herculaneum 86 670-2 671 hiking
Alicudi 786 Alpe di Siusi 338 alte vie 316 Amalfi Coast 681 Apuane Alps 520 Aosta 249 Apennines 457 Baunei 869 Cala Gonone 868 Capri 665 Courmayeur 252-3 Dolomites 314-16 Dorgali 867 Elba 531 Gola Su Gorruppu 867-8 itinerary 32 Lipari 780 Madonna di Campiglio 322
325 Maritime Alps 237 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Milky Way 234 Mt Etna 807 Oliena 866 Pantelleria 831
Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie 775-6
Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e Molise 626 627
Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano 693
Parco Nazionale della Majella 624 Parco Regionale della Maremma
297 Isola Bella (Sicily) 792 Isola Caprera 861-2 Isola della Maddalena 861 Isola Madre 297 Isola Maggiore 577 Isola Polvese 577 Isola San Giulio 294 Isola San Pietro 847-8
IND
EX
934 I N D E X ( I - M )
Isola Superiore (Pescatori) 298
Isole Pelagie 822 Isole Pontine 190-1 Isole Tremiti 704-5 Italia in Miniatura 471 itineraries 27-32
J Janiculum 131 jet lag 904 jewellery design 497 Jewish culture 553 809 Jewish ghetto (Rome) 121-3 Jewish history 362-3 Joyce James 407 Julietrsquos House 393
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Julius Caesar 36-7 90 Juventus 233
K kayaking
Courmayeur 252 Elba 531 533 Val di Sole 326 Varallo 257
kite-surfing Palau 861 Sinis Peninsula 852
L la bella figura 61-2 La Fenice 70 La Garfagnana see Garfagnana the La Magdeleine 255 La Morra 240-1 La Rotonda 390-1 La Scala 264 La Sila 748-9 La Spezia 211-13 212 La vita egrave bella 555 Ladin 337 339 Laghetto di Fanghi 782 Laghi di Fusine 423-4 Lago di Albano 188 Lago di Como 299-306 9 Lago di Garda 307-12 803 Lago di Lesina 701 Lago di Lugano 305 Lago di Nemi 188 Lago di Piano 305 Lago di Varano 701 Lago drsquoIseo 306-7 Lago drsquoOrta 294-5 Lago Lario see Lago di Como Lago Maggiore 295-9 Lago Omedeo Circuit 852-3 Lago Trasimeno 576-8 Laguna di Marano 416 Lampedusa Giuseppe Tomasi di 66 Langhirano 457 language 906-11
Levanzo 830-1 Levi Carlo 67 731 734 739-40 Levi Primo 66 Lido the 366 Lignano 417 Liguria 192-220 196 limoncello 77 Lingotto Fiere 227 Lipari 779-81 Lippi Filippino 56 Lippi Filippo 52 57 495 literature 22-4 65-7 Livorno 528-30 529 Locorotondo 714-15 Lombardy 259-312 260 Lorenzetti brothers 52 56 Loreto 606 Lorica 748 Lovere 307 Lucanian Apennines see Appennino
Lucano Lucca 514-19 515 9 Lucera 705-6
M Macerata 611-13 Machiavelli 67 Madonna di Campiglio 322-6 324 Mafia 48 757 761 Majella National Park 85 624-5 majolica ceramics 576 Malcesine 310 Malvasia wine 781 783 Mamoiada 866 mamuthones 866 Manarola 210 Mani Pulite 48 Manotra see Mantua Mantegna Andrea 53 57 Mantero 303
IND
EX
I N D E X ( M ) 935
Mantua 289-93 290 maps 882 Maranello 449-50 Marano Lagunare 416 Maratea 740-1 marble quarries 520 Marcialonga 328 Marciana Marina 533 Marcus Aurelius 39 Marettimo 830-1 Marina del Cantone 680-1 Marina di Camerota 693 Marina di Carrara 520 Marina di Furore 685 Marina di Massa 520 Marina di Sorso 859 Marinetti Filippo Tommaso 58 Maritime Alps 237 Mark Antony (Marcus Antonius) 37 markets
Ballarograve 766 11 Catania 795 Genoa 203 La Pescheria 795 Mercato del Capo 766 Mercato della Vucciria 766
Marsala 823-4 Martello 336-7 Martina Franca 715-17 Martini Simone 52 56 Masaccio 53 57 497 mask making 367 masseria (manor farm) 716 Masua 846 Matera 733-8 12 mattanza 831 847 Matterhorn 255 Mausoleo di Cecilia Metell 138 Maximilian 412 measures 872 see also inside front
cover medical services 904 see also
health Medici family 43 476 492 494-5 Meier Richard 124 Menaggio 305 Merano 333-5 Mercato di Ballarograve 766 11 Messina 787-9 Messina Bridge project 87 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Metaponto 733 metric conversions see inside front
Milan 260-79 266-9 accommodation 271-3 drinking 274-5 entertainment 275-6 festivals 271 food 273-4 gay amp lesbian travellers 276 shopping 277 sights 263-71 tourist information 263 tours 271 travel tofrom 277-8 travel within 278-9
Milazzo 777-8 Milky Way 234-5 Mille Miglia 449 Miramare 411-12 Mission Impossible III 659 Mithraism 130 mobile phones 885 Modena 446-9 447 Modena Cento Ore 449 Modica 815-16 Moena 328 Molise 619 621 625 629-33 630 Moltrasio 304 Molveno 322 323 Mona Lisa 54 Monastery of St Benedict 189 Moncalvo 244 Mondello 773 money 20-1 882-3 see also inside
front cover discount cards Monferrato 244-5 Monreale 773-4 Monselice 386 Montagnana 386 Montalcino 550-1 Monte Bondone 319 Monte Cassino 189 Monte Isola 307 Monte Ortobene 865 Monte Pellegrino 773 Monte Rocchetta 311 Monte Rosa 256 Monte SantrsquoAngelo 702-4 Monte Ursino 216 Montepulciano 551-2 Monterosso 209 Monti del Matese 631 Monti Ferru 852 Monti Sibillini 85 594-5 616-17
Aosta 249 Cala Gonone 868 Courmayeur 252-3 Milky Way 234 Stresa 296 tours 868 Val Badia 340
mountain huts 874 mountaineering 257
Messner Reinhold 331 332 Mozia 825 Mt Etna 806-8 800 Mt Vesuvius 672-3 mud baths 782 831 Muggia 402 412-13 multiculturalism 62-3 Mundi Stupor 41 Munthe Axel 663 Murano 366-7 Murat Joachim 755 Murgia plateau 713-18 737 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto Adige
331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano 779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale 645 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia
751 Museo Nazionale di San Matteo 525 Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo
Massimo alle Terme 128-9 Museum of Glass 366 museums amp galleries
270-1 Galleria drsquoArte Moderna 361 Galleria dellrsquoAccademia (Florshy
ence) 493 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Antica
(Rome) 123 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna
e Contemporanea (Rome) 126
IND
EX
936 I N D E X ( M - N )
museums amp galleries continued Gallerie dellrsquoAccademia ( Venice)
358-9 Gallerie di Palazzo Leoni Montanshy
ari 390 Keats-Shelley Memorial House 124 MAAM (Museo a Cielo Aperto
dellrsquoArchitettura Moderna) 245 MAXXI art gallery 164 164 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Musei di Strada Nuova 197-8 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto
Adige 331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano
779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Naples) 645-6 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Sardinia) 838 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
dellrsquoUmbria 569 Museo Archeologico Paolo Orsi 811 Museo Civico (Siena) 538 Museo Civico (Vicenza)390 Museo Civico Archeologico
(Bologna) 430 Museo Claudio Faina e Civico 597 Museo Correr 357 Museo del Bargello 490 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo della Fondazione Querini
Stampalia 364 Museo della Scultura
Contemporanea 735-6 Museo della Seta 301 Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni
Sarde 865 Museo dellrsquoAra Pacis 124 158 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo dellrsquoOpera Metropolitana
539 Museo di Capodimonte 648 Museo di Roma 121 Museo di San Marco (Florence)
492 Museo Ebraico 363 Museo Ebraico di Roma 122 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Etrusco Guarnacci 548 Museo Fortuny 358
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Museo Nazionale Archeologico ( Taranto) 730
Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia 751
Museo Nazionale Romano Crypta Balbi 120
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Altemps 120-1
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo alle Terme 128-9
Museo Nazionale Romano Terme di Diocleziano 128
Museo Palatino 113 Museo Walser 256 Museum of Glass 366 Padiglione drsquoArte Contemporanea
accommodation 570-1 courses 570 drinking 572 festivals 570 food 571-2 history 565 language courses 570 shopping 573 sights 568-70 tourist information 567 travel tofrom 573-4 travel within 574-5
Perugia Universitagrave per Stranieri 570 Perugina chocolate factory 569-70 Perugino 56 Pesaro 609-11 Pescara 627-8 Pescasseroli 625 626 Peschici 698-700 Pescocostanzo 624-5 Petralia Soprana 775 Petralia Sottana 775 Petrarch 67 386 Phoenician ruins 825 847 phone cards 885 Piacenza 457-9 Piano Renzo 171-2 Piano Battaglia 775 Piazza Barberini 123-4 Piazza dei Miracoli 86 523-5 Piazza del Popolo 124-8 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Piazza della Repubblica 128-32 Piazza di Spagna 124 Piazza Navona 120 Piazza San Marco 355-7 Piazza San Pietro 132 Piazza Venezia 118-19 Piccione 563 Piedmont 192 194 220-45 221 Pienza 551 Pietagrave 133 Pietra di Bismantova 452 Pietrabbondante 632 Pietrapertosa 740 Pietrasanta 521 Pigra 304
Pila 249 pilgrimage 702-3 Pinacoteca di Brera 270 Pinzolo 324-6 Piombi 356 Pirandello Luigi 67 Pisa 521-8 522 Pisano Giovanni 56 539 Pisano Nicola 51 56 524 Pisciotta 693 Pistoia 512-14 513 Pitigliano 553-4 Pitti family 495-6 Pizzo 755 Plan de Corones 341 planning 20-4 see also itineraries
discount cards plants 83-4 Platamona 859 Plateau Rosa 255-6 256 Po Delta 463-4 poetry 67 Policoro 733 Polignano a Mare 712-13 politics 18-9 64-5 Pollara 783 Parco Nazionale del Pollino
(Basilicata) 85 741-2 Parco Nazionale del Pollino (Calabria)
85 743-5 pollution 84 718 878 Pompeii 86 673-6 Ponte di Calatrava 350 Ponza 190-1 pop music 70-1 popes 39-41 90 132 Popolo della Libertagrave 48 population 62-4 Pordenone 417 Porlezza 305 Porto Cervo 862 Porto Conte 857 Porto Ferro 857 Porto Teulada 845 Porto Torres 860 Porto Venere 213-14 Portocannone 633 Portoferraio 531-3 Portofino 206 Positano 682-4 683 Possagno 392 postal services 883-4 Potenza 739 Pozzuoli 657-8 Praia a Mare 745
I N D E X ( P - S ) 939
Praiano 684-5 Processione dei Serpari 624 Procida 669-72 Promontorio del Gargano 696-704 prosciutto 422-3 458 Prosecco 398-9 Provenzano Bernardo 761 public transport 900 Puglia 696-731 699 Pula 844-5 Punta della Dogana 359-60 Punta Helbronner 253 puppet shows 809 Pythagoras 733
Q Quadrilatero drsquoOro 277 Quintana 615
R Radda in Chianti 536 radio 872 rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
Ragusa 816-17 rail passes 895 Rapallo 207-8 Raphael 56 126 134 135 490 495 Ravello 687-8 Ravenna 464-8 465 Ravenna Festival 467 Red Brigades 47 Refounded Communist Party 47 Regata Storica 369 Reggio di Calabria 751-3 752 Reggio Emilia 450-2 451 religion 64 Remus 34 Renaissance art 53-5 56 57 Repubblica di San Marino 473 responsible travel 21-2
resources 22 Ribera Giuseppe de 57 Rimini 468-73 469 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Riola Sardo 852 Riomaggiore 210 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822 Riva 311 Riva del Garda 311 Rivello 740-1 Riviera di Levante 205-14
Riviera di Ponente 215-20 road distance chart 899 Robbia Andrea della 57 Rocca Meli Lupi 456 Rocca Sanvitale 456 rock carvings 830 rock-climbing see climbing Roghudi 751 Roman Baths of Caracalla 70 Roman Empire 34-6 40 35 Roman Forum 114 Rome 89-191 95-110
accommodation 144-50 children travel with 139 clubbing 168-71 cooking 140-2 courses 140-2 discount cards 111 drinking 165-8 entertainment 171-2 festivals 143-4 food 150-65 gay amp lesbian travellers 169 history 90 shopping 172-4 sights 112-39 tourist information 94-111 travel tofrom 174-5 travel within 175-9 walking tours 140 143 141
S Sabaudia 190 Sabbioneta 293 Sacile 402 417-18 Saepinum 630-1 sailing 207 812 861 saints 915 see also individual saints Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci (Chamber
of the Council of 10) 356 salami 594 Salentine Peninsula see Penisola
Salentina Salerno 689-92 689 Salina 783-4 Saline di Trapani 824-5 Salograve 309 Saluzzo 236-8 San Benedetto Po 293 San Carlo Borromeo 298
San Costantino Albanese 741-2 San Daniele del Friuli 402 422-3 San Domino 704 San Francesco di Paola 745 San Fruttuoso 205-6 San Gimignano 544-7 545 San Giorgio 398 San Giorgio Maggiore 365-6 San Giovanni 129-30 San Giovanni in Fiore 748 San Giovanni Rotondo 703 San Marino 473-4 473 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 San Martino in Pensilis 633 San Michele 366 San Nicola 704 San Pantaleo 824 862-3 San Paolo Albanese 741-2 San Pietro in Cariano 397 San Polo 360-1 San Remo 217-19 218 San Siro stadium 276 San Terenzo 214 Sansepolcro 558 Santa Caterina di Pittinuri 852 Santa Caterina di Siena 540 Santa Cecilia 131 Santa Cristina 337-8 Santa Croce 360-1 Santa Margherita 206-7 Santa Maria di Leuca 728 Santa Maria Navarrese 870 Santa Severina 749 Santa Teresa di Gallura 860-1 SantrsquoAgata sui due Golfi 680 SantrsquoAmbrogio di Valpolicella 398 SantrsquoAntioco 847-8 SantrsquoArcangelo 742 Santo Stefano drsquoAveto 208 Santuario della Madonna del Terzito
783 Santuario di San Michele 703 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri 851 Sardinia 184 833-70 834 Sarnano 618 Sarnico 306 Sarto Andrea del 56 Sarzana 214 Sassari 857-9 858 sassi 733 735-6 737 Sauris di Sopra 424 Saviano Roberto 67 68 Savona 215-16 Savonarola Girolamo 42 Scala Santa 129
Signorelli Luca 56 Sila National Park 85 silk 299 303 Sinis Peninsula 851-2 Sirmione 307 308-9 Sistine Chapel 135-6 skiing see also cross-country skiing
Abruzzo 625 Alta Badia 339 340 Aosta 249
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Bormio 336 Breuil-Cervinia 255-6 Camigliatello Silano 748 Campitello Matese 625 631 Campo di Giove 625 Campo Felice 625 Campo Imperatore 625 Cermis ski area 327 Champoluc 256 Cogne 254 Courmayeur 252 Dolomites 314 798 itinerary 32 Lecco 306 Lorica 748 Madonna di Campiglio 322 324-5 Merano 334-5 Milky Way 234 Molise 625 Ovindoli 625 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Passo della Stelvio 336 Pescasseroli 625 Pescocostanzo 625 Piano Battaglia 775 Plan de Corones 341 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 Sella Ronda 329 Stresa 296 Tarvisio 423 Val di Fassa 328 Val di Solda 336 Val Gardena 337 Valle drsquoAosta 247 Valtournenche 256
Spello 586-7 Sperlonga 190 Spilimbergo 418 Spoleto 590-3 591 Spoleto Festival see Festival dei Due
Mondi Spormaggiore 322 sport 71-2 squares see piazza St Benedict 189 St Catherine of Siena 119 St Francis of Assisi 580 582 583 584 St Michael the Archangel 702-3 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 St Peterrsquos Square 132 St Ubaldo 588 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232 Star Wars 659 Steinbeck John 682 Stelvio National Park 85 335-7 Stintino 860 stone towers 851 Strada del Vino Costa degli Etruschi 531 Stradivari Antonio 289 Strait of Messina bridge 789 strawberries 336 Strawberry Festival 336 Stresa 295-7 296 Stromboli 785-6 Studi di Scultura Carlo Nicoli 520 Stupor Mundi see Frederick I
tickets 276 Teatro Greco 791 Teatro La Fenice 357 378 Teatro Olimpico 390 Teatro Rossini 610-11 Teatro San Carlo 70 647 telephone services 884-5 television 62 Tellaro 214 Tempietto 131 163 Tempio di Antas 846 Tempio Malatestiano 470 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Caracalla 130 Terme di Diocleziano 128 Termini 126-9 Termoli 632-3 Terranova di Pollino 742 Tharros 851 The Last Supper 86 265 theatre 71 theft 878 theme parks 471 Theodosius I the Great 39 thermal springs
Colli Eugane 386 Preacute-St-Didier 253 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Rabbi 327 Terme di Saturnia 553 Terme Merano 334
Thomes 867 Tiberius 38 time 885 910 Tintoretto 57 367 tipping 883 Tirolo 335 Tiscali 868 Titian 57 118 Tivoli 181-2 Tizzano Val Parma 457 Todi 578-80 Tolmezzo 424 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes 867 Tomba di Giulietta (Julietrsquos Tomb) 393 Tommaso Filippo 58 Torbole 310-11
Torcello 367 Torgiano 575-6 Torino see Turin Torre Annunziata 86 Torre Branca 265 Torre Civica 237 Torre drsquoArnolfo 486 Torre degli Asinelli 431 Torre del Porticciolo 857 Torre delle Milizie 116 Torre dellrsquoElefante 838 Torre dellrsquoOrologio 357 Torre di Mariano II 849 Torre di San Pancrazio 838 Torre Pendente 523 161 Torre Porta a Terra 854 Torre Troyana o DellrsquoOrologio 244 Tortoligrave 870 Tortora 745 Toula Glacier 252 Tour du Mont Blanc 253 tourist information 885-6 tours
U Uccello Paolo 57 Udine 418-22 420 Uffizi 487-90 491 Ultra Trail Tour du Mont Blanc 252 Umbria 560-99 564 Umbria Jazz 570 Under the Tuscan Sun 558 underground tours 317 649
IND
EX
V
IND
EX
942 I N D E X ( U - W )
Urbino 606-9 607 Ururi 633 Ustica 774 UTMB 252
vaccinations 903 Val Badia 339-41 Val drsquoAveto 208 Val di Fassa 328-9 Val di Fiemme 327 Val di Genova 325 Val di Gressoney 256-8 Val di Magra 214 Val di Non 326 Val di Rabbi 326-7 Val di Solda 336 Val di Sole 326 Val Gardena 337-8 Val Grande National Park 85 Val Martello 336-7 Val Pusteria 341-2 Valcamonica rock drawings 86 Valentinian 39 Valle drsquoAosta 192 194 245-58 246 Valle drsquoAyas 256-8 Valle dei Templi 820 Valle di Chisone 234 Valle di Susa 234 Vallee Blanche 252 Valley of the Temples 820 Vallunga 337 Valnerina the 594-5 Valpolicella 397-8 Valsesia 256-8 802 Valtellina 285 Valtournenche 255-6 Vaneze di Monte 319 vaporetto travel 380-1 Varallo 256 257 Varenna 306 Vasari Giorgio 55 57 Vasograven 319 Vasto 629 Vatican City 131-6 Vatican Museums 133-6 Velia 693 Veneto the 343-400 346 Venice 345-81 348-9 352-3
accommodation 370-3 cafes 375
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
children travel with 369 discount cards 351 drinking 376-7 entertainment 377-8 festivals 369 food 373-6 history 345-7 itineraries 347 shopping 378 379 sights 350-67 tourist information 350 travel tofrom 378-80 travel within 380-1
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Venosa 738-9 Ventimiglia 219-20 Ventotene 190-1 Verbania 298 Vercelli 245 Verdi Giuseppe 457 Verdi Country 456-7 Vernazza 209 Verona 392-7 394 Veronese Paolo 57 Versace Gianni 304 Vespasian 38 Vesuvio National Park 85 Vezio 306 Via Appia Antica 136-9 Via Ferrata delle Bocchette 322 Vibo Valentia 755 Vicenza 388-92 389 vie cave 554 vie ferrate 322 341 Vieste 701-2 701 Villa Adriana 181 Villa Balbianello 304 Villa Borghese 125-6 Villa Capra 390-1 Villa Carlotta 305 Villa Cipressi 306 Villa drsquoEste 181-2 Villa Floridiana 647 Villa Foscari 381 Villa Foscarini Rossi 382 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Kunkler 386 Villa Manin 422 Villa Maseacuter 392 Villa Monastero 306 Villa Pisani Nazionale 381-2 Villa Quintili 138 villa rentals 874-5 Villa Romana del Casale 818
Villa Rufolo 688 Villa Valmarana lsquoai Nanirsquo 390 Villa Welsperg 327 Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari 381 Villasimius 844 vineyards 442
Aosta 249 Barolo 240-1 Greve in Chianti 534 La Morra 240 Valpolicella 398
violins 289 Virgil 66 visas 887-8 see also passports Visconti family 43 Viterbo 184-7 185 Vittoriale degli Italiani il 310 volcanoes 82
waterfalls 311 616 water sports 72 weather 20 876-7 websites see internet resources weights 872 see inside front cover whale-watching 201 Whitaker Joseph 824-5 white-water rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
wildlife 81-4 see also individual animals amp plants
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
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Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
J Janiculum 131 jet lag 904 jewellery design 497 Jewish culture 553 809 Jewish ghetto (Rome) 121-3 Jewish history 362-3 Joyce James 407 Julietrsquos House 393
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Julius Caesar 36-7 90 Juventus 233
K kayaking
Courmayeur 252 Elba 531 533 Val di Sole 326 Varallo 257
kite-surfing Palau 861 Sinis Peninsula 852
L la bella figura 61-2 La Fenice 70 La Garfagnana see Garfagnana the La Magdeleine 255 La Morra 240-1 La Rotonda 390-1 La Scala 264 La Sila 748-9 La Spezia 211-13 212 La vita egrave bella 555 Ladin 337 339 Laghetto di Fanghi 782 Laghi di Fusine 423-4 Lago di Albano 188 Lago di Como 299-306 9 Lago di Garda 307-12 803 Lago di Lesina 701 Lago di Lugano 305 Lago di Nemi 188 Lago di Piano 305 Lago di Varano 701 Lago drsquoIseo 306-7 Lago drsquoOrta 294-5 Lago Lario see Lago di Como Lago Maggiore 295-9 Lago Omedeo Circuit 852-3 Lago Trasimeno 576-8 Laguna di Marano 416 Lampedusa Giuseppe Tomasi di 66 Langhirano 457 language 906-11
Levanzo 830-1 Levi Carlo 67 731 734 739-40 Levi Primo 66 Lido the 366 Lignano 417 Liguria 192-220 196 limoncello 77 Lingotto Fiere 227 Lipari 779-81 Lippi Filippino 56 Lippi Filippo 52 57 495 literature 22-4 65-7 Livorno 528-30 529 Locorotondo 714-15 Lombardy 259-312 260 Lorenzetti brothers 52 56 Loreto 606 Lorica 748 Lovere 307 Lucanian Apennines see Appennino
Lucano Lucca 514-19 515 9 Lucera 705-6
M Macerata 611-13 Machiavelli 67 Madonna di Campiglio 322-6 324 Mafia 48 757 761 Majella National Park 85 624-5 majolica ceramics 576 Malcesine 310 Malvasia wine 781 783 Mamoiada 866 mamuthones 866 Manarola 210 Mani Pulite 48 Manotra see Mantua Mantegna Andrea 53 57 Mantero 303
IND
EX
I N D E X ( M ) 935
Mantua 289-93 290 maps 882 Maranello 449-50 Marano Lagunare 416 Maratea 740-1 marble quarries 520 Marcialonga 328 Marciana Marina 533 Marcus Aurelius 39 Marettimo 830-1 Marina del Cantone 680-1 Marina di Camerota 693 Marina di Carrara 520 Marina di Furore 685 Marina di Massa 520 Marina di Sorso 859 Marinetti Filippo Tommaso 58 Maritime Alps 237 Mark Antony (Marcus Antonius) 37 markets
Ballarograve 766 11 Catania 795 Genoa 203 La Pescheria 795 Mercato del Capo 766 Mercato della Vucciria 766
Marsala 823-4 Martello 336-7 Martina Franca 715-17 Martini Simone 52 56 Masaccio 53 57 497 mask making 367 masseria (manor farm) 716 Masua 846 Matera 733-8 12 mattanza 831 847 Matterhorn 255 Mausoleo di Cecilia Metell 138 Maximilian 412 measures 872 see also inside front
cover medical services 904 see also
health Medici family 43 476 492 494-5 Meier Richard 124 Menaggio 305 Merano 333-5 Mercato di Ballarograve 766 11 Messina 787-9 Messina Bridge project 87 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Metaponto 733 metric conversions see inside front
Milan 260-79 266-9 accommodation 271-3 drinking 274-5 entertainment 275-6 festivals 271 food 273-4 gay amp lesbian travellers 276 shopping 277 sights 263-71 tourist information 263 tours 271 travel tofrom 277-8 travel within 278-9
Milazzo 777-8 Milky Way 234-5 Mille Miglia 449 Miramare 411-12 Mission Impossible III 659 Mithraism 130 mobile phones 885 Modena 446-9 447 Modena Cento Ore 449 Modica 815-16 Moena 328 Molise 619 621 625 629-33 630 Moltrasio 304 Molveno 322 323 Mona Lisa 54 Monastery of St Benedict 189 Moncalvo 244 Mondello 773 money 20-1 882-3 see also inside
front cover discount cards Monferrato 244-5 Monreale 773-4 Monselice 386 Montagnana 386 Montalcino 550-1 Monte Bondone 319 Monte Cassino 189 Monte Isola 307 Monte Ortobene 865 Monte Pellegrino 773 Monte Rocchetta 311 Monte Rosa 256 Monte SantrsquoAngelo 702-4 Monte Ursino 216 Montepulciano 551-2 Monterosso 209 Monti del Matese 631 Monti Ferru 852 Monti Sibillini 85 594-5 616-17
Aosta 249 Cala Gonone 868 Courmayeur 252-3 Milky Way 234 Stresa 296 tours 868 Val Badia 340
mountain huts 874 mountaineering 257
Messner Reinhold 331 332 Mozia 825 Mt Etna 806-8 800 Mt Vesuvius 672-3 mud baths 782 831 Muggia 402 412-13 multiculturalism 62-3 Mundi Stupor 41 Munthe Axel 663 Murano 366-7 Murat Joachim 755 Murgia plateau 713-18 737 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto Adige
331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano 779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale 645 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia
751 Museo Nazionale di San Matteo 525 Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo
Massimo alle Terme 128-9 Museum of Glass 366 museums amp galleries
270-1 Galleria drsquoArte Moderna 361 Galleria dellrsquoAccademia (Florshy
ence) 493 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Antica
(Rome) 123 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna
e Contemporanea (Rome) 126
IND
EX
936 I N D E X ( M - N )
museums amp galleries continued Gallerie dellrsquoAccademia ( Venice)
358-9 Gallerie di Palazzo Leoni Montanshy
ari 390 Keats-Shelley Memorial House 124 MAAM (Museo a Cielo Aperto
dellrsquoArchitettura Moderna) 245 MAXXI art gallery 164 164 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Musei di Strada Nuova 197-8 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto
Adige 331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano
779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Naples) 645-6 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Sardinia) 838 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
dellrsquoUmbria 569 Museo Archeologico Paolo Orsi 811 Museo Civico (Siena) 538 Museo Civico (Vicenza)390 Museo Civico Archeologico
(Bologna) 430 Museo Claudio Faina e Civico 597 Museo Correr 357 Museo del Bargello 490 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo della Fondazione Querini
Stampalia 364 Museo della Scultura
Contemporanea 735-6 Museo della Seta 301 Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni
Sarde 865 Museo dellrsquoAra Pacis 124 158 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo dellrsquoOpera Metropolitana
539 Museo di Capodimonte 648 Museo di Roma 121 Museo di San Marco (Florence)
492 Museo Ebraico 363 Museo Ebraico di Roma 122 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Etrusco Guarnacci 548 Museo Fortuny 358
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Museo Nazionale Archeologico ( Taranto) 730
Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia 751
Museo Nazionale Romano Crypta Balbi 120
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Altemps 120-1
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo alle Terme 128-9
Museo Nazionale Romano Terme di Diocleziano 128
Museo Palatino 113 Museo Walser 256 Museum of Glass 366 Padiglione drsquoArte Contemporanea
accommodation 570-1 courses 570 drinking 572 festivals 570 food 571-2 history 565 language courses 570 shopping 573 sights 568-70 tourist information 567 travel tofrom 573-4 travel within 574-5
Perugia Universitagrave per Stranieri 570 Perugina chocolate factory 569-70 Perugino 56 Pesaro 609-11 Pescara 627-8 Pescasseroli 625 626 Peschici 698-700 Pescocostanzo 624-5 Petralia Soprana 775 Petralia Sottana 775 Petrarch 67 386 Phoenician ruins 825 847 phone cards 885 Piacenza 457-9 Piano Renzo 171-2 Piano Battaglia 775 Piazza Barberini 123-4 Piazza dei Miracoli 86 523-5 Piazza del Popolo 124-8 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Piazza della Repubblica 128-32 Piazza di Spagna 124 Piazza Navona 120 Piazza San Marco 355-7 Piazza San Pietro 132 Piazza Venezia 118-19 Piccione 563 Piedmont 192 194 220-45 221 Pienza 551 Pietagrave 133 Pietra di Bismantova 452 Pietrabbondante 632 Pietrapertosa 740 Pietrasanta 521 Pigra 304
Pila 249 pilgrimage 702-3 Pinacoteca di Brera 270 Pinzolo 324-6 Piombi 356 Pirandello Luigi 67 Pisa 521-8 522 Pisano Giovanni 56 539 Pisano Nicola 51 56 524 Pisciotta 693 Pistoia 512-14 513 Pitigliano 553-4 Pitti family 495-6 Pizzo 755 Plan de Corones 341 planning 20-4 see also itineraries
discount cards plants 83-4 Platamona 859 Plateau Rosa 255-6 256 Po Delta 463-4 poetry 67 Policoro 733 Polignano a Mare 712-13 politics 18-9 64-5 Pollara 783 Parco Nazionale del Pollino
(Basilicata) 85 741-2 Parco Nazionale del Pollino (Calabria)
85 743-5 pollution 84 718 878 Pompeii 86 673-6 Ponte di Calatrava 350 Ponza 190-1 pop music 70-1 popes 39-41 90 132 Popolo della Libertagrave 48 population 62-4 Pordenone 417 Porlezza 305 Porto Cervo 862 Porto Conte 857 Porto Ferro 857 Porto Teulada 845 Porto Torres 860 Porto Venere 213-14 Portocannone 633 Portoferraio 531-3 Portofino 206 Positano 682-4 683 Possagno 392 postal services 883-4 Potenza 739 Pozzuoli 657-8 Praia a Mare 745
I N D E X ( P - S ) 939
Praiano 684-5 Processione dei Serpari 624 Procida 669-72 Promontorio del Gargano 696-704 prosciutto 422-3 458 Prosecco 398-9 Provenzano Bernardo 761 public transport 900 Puglia 696-731 699 Pula 844-5 Punta della Dogana 359-60 Punta Helbronner 253 puppet shows 809 Pythagoras 733
Q Quadrilatero drsquoOro 277 Quintana 615
R Radda in Chianti 536 radio 872 rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
Ragusa 816-17 rail passes 895 Rapallo 207-8 Raphael 56 126 134 135 490 495 Ravello 687-8 Ravenna 464-8 465 Ravenna Festival 467 Red Brigades 47 Refounded Communist Party 47 Regata Storica 369 Reggio di Calabria 751-3 752 Reggio Emilia 450-2 451 religion 64 Remus 34 Renaissance art 53-5 56 57 Repubblica di San Marino 473 responsible travel 21-2
resources 22 Ribera Giuseppe de 57 Rimini 468-73 469 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Riola Sardo 852 Riomaggiore 210 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822 Riva 311 Riva del Garda 311 Rivello 740-1 Riviera di Levante 205-14
Riviera di Ponente 215-20 road distance chart 899 Robbia Andrea della 57 Rocca Meli Lupi 456 Rocca Sanvitale 456 rock carvings 830 rock-climbing see climbing Roghudi 751 Roman Baths of Caracalla 70 Roman Empire 34-6 40 35 Roman Forum 114 Rome 89-191 95-110
accommodation 144-50 children travel with 139 clubbing 168-71 cooking 140-2 courses 140-2 discount cards 111 drinking 165-8 entertainment 171-2 festivals 143-4 food 150-65 gay amp lesbian travellers 169 history 90 shopping 172-4 sights 112-39 tourist information 94-111 travel tofrom 174-5 travel within 175-9 walking tours 140 143 141
S Sabaudia 190 Sabbioneta 293 Sacile 402 417-18 Saepinum 630-1 sailing 207 812 861 saints 915 see also individual saints Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci (Chamber
of the Council of 10) 356 salami 594 Salentine Peninsula see Penisola
Salentina Salerno 689-92 689 Salina 783-4 Saline di Trapani 824-5 Salograve 309 Saluzzo 236-8 San Benedetto Po 293 San Carlo Borromeo 298
San Costantino Albanese 741-2 San Daniele del Friuli 402 422-3 San Domino 704 San Francesco di Paola 745 San Fruttuoso 205-6 San Gimignano 544-7 545 San Giorgio 398 San Giorgio Maggiore 365-6 San Giovanni 129-30 San Giovanni in Fiore 748 San Giovanni Rotondo 703 San Marino 473-4 473 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 San Martino in Pensilis 633 San Michele 366 San Nicola 704 San Pantaleo 824 862-3 San Paolo Albanese 741-2 San Pietro in Cariano 397 San Polo 360-1 San Remo 217-19 218 San Siro stadium 276 San Terenzo 214 Sansepolcro 558 Santa Caterina di Pittinuri 852 Santa Caterina di Siena 540 Santa Cecilia 131 Santa Cristina 337-8 Santa Croce 360-1 Santa Margherita 206-7 Santa Maria di Leuca 728 Santa Maria Navarrese 870 Santa Severina 749 Santa Teresa di Gallura 860-1 SantrsquoAgata sui due Golfi 680 SantrsquoAmbrogio di Valpolicella 398 SantrsquoAntioco 847-8 SantrsquoArcangelo 742 Santo Stefano drsquoAveto 208 Santuario della Madonna del Terzito
783 Santuario di San Michele 703 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri 851 Sardinia 184 833-70 834 Sarnano 618 Sarnico 306 Sarto Andrea del 56 Sarzana 214 Sassari 857-9 858 sassi 733 735-6 737 Sauris di Sopra 424 Saviano Roberto 67 68 Savona 215-16 Savonarola Girolamo 42 Scala Santa 129
Signorelli Luca 56 Sila National Park 85 silk 299 303 Sinis Peninsula 851-2 Sirmione 307 308-9 Sistine Chapel 135-6 skiing see also cross-country skiing
Abruzzo 625 Alta Badia 339 340 Aosta 249
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Bormio 336 Breuil-Cervinia 255-6 Camigliatello Silano 748 Campitello Matese 625 631 Campo di Giove 625 Campo Felice 625 Campo Imperatore 625 Cermis ski area 327 Champoluc 256 Cogne 254 Courmayeur 252 Dolomites 314 798 itinerary 32 Lecco 306 Lorica 748 Madonna di Campiglio 322 324-5 Merano 334-5 Milky Way 234 Molise 625 Ovindoli 625 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Passo della Stelvio 336 Pescasseroli 625 Pescocostanzo 625 Piano Battaglia 775 Plan de Corones 341 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 Sella Ronda 329 Stresa 296 Tarvisio 423 Val di Fassa 328 Val di Solda 336 Val Gardena 337 Valle drsquoAosta 247 Valtournenche 256
Spello 586-7 Sperlonga 190 Spilimbergo 418 Spoleto 590-3 591 Spoleto Festival see Festival dei Due
Mondi Spormaggiore 322 sport 71-2 squares see piazza St Benedict 189 St Catherine of Siena 119 St Francis of Assisi 580 582 583 584 St Michael the Archangel 702-3 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 St Peterrsquos Square 132 St Ubaldo 588 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232 Star Wars 659 Steinbeck John 682 Stelvio National Park 85 335-7 Stintino 860 stone towers 851 Strada del Vino Costa degli Etruschi 531 Stradivari Antonio 289 Strait of Messina bridge 789 strawberries 336 Strawberry Festival 336 Stresa 295-7 296 Stromboli 785-6 Studi di Scultura Carlo Nicoli 520 Stupor Mundi see Frederick I
tickets 276 Teatro Greco 791 Teatro La Fenice 357 378 Teatro Olimpico 390 Teatro Rossini 610-11 Teatro San Carlo 70 647 telephone services 884-5 television 62 Tellaro 214 Tempietto 131 163 Tempio di Antas 846 Tempio Malatestiano 470 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Caracalla 130 Terme di Diocleziano 128 Termini 126-9 Termoli 632-3 Terranova di Pollino 742 Tharros 851 The Last Supper 86 265 theatre 71 theft 878 theme parks 471 Theodosius I the Great 39 thermal springs
Colli Eugane 386 Preacute-St-Didier 253 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Rabbi 327 Terme di Saturnia 553 Terme Merano 334
Thomes 867 Tiberius 38 time 885 910 Tintoretto 57 367 tipping 883 Tirolo 335 Tiscali 868 Titian 57 118 Tivoli 181-2 Tizzano Val Parma 457 Todi 578-80 Tolmezzo 424 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes 867 Tomba di Giulietta (Julietrsquos Tomb) 393 Tommaso Filippo 58 Torbole 310-11
Torcello 367 Torgiano 575-6 Torino see Turin Torre Annunziata 86 Torre Branca 265 Torre Civica 237 Torre drsquoArnolfo 486 Torre degli Asinelli 431 Torre del Porticciolo 857 Torre delle Milizie 116 Torre dellrsquoElefante 838 Torre dellrsquoOrologio 357 Torre di Mariano II 849 Torre di San Pancrazio 838 Torre Pendente 523 161 Torre Porta a Terra 854 Torre Troyana o DellrsquoOrologio 244 Tortoligrave 870 Tortora 745 Toula Glacier 252 Tour du Mont Blanc 253 tourist information 885-6 tours
U Uccello Paolo 57 Udine 418-22 420 Uffizi 487-90 491 Ultra Trail Tour du Mont Blanc 252 Umbria 560-99 564 Umbria Jazz 570 Under the Tuscan Sun 558 underground tours 317 649
IND
EX
V
IND
EX
942 I N D E X ( U - W )
Urbino 606-9 607 Ururi 633 Ustica 774 UTMB 252
vaccinations 903 Val Badia 339-41 Val drsquoAveto 208 Val di Fassa 328-9 Val di Fiemme 327 Val di Genova 325 Val di Gressoney 256-8 Val di Magra 214 Val di Non 326 Val di Rabbi 326-7 Val di Solda 336 Val di Sole 326 Val Gardena 337-8 Val Grande National Park 85 Val Martello 336-7 Val Pusteria 341-2 Valcamonica rock drawings 86 Valentinian 39 Valle drsquoAosta 192 194 245-58 246 Valle drsquoAyas 256-8 Valle dei Templi 820 Valle di Chisone 234 Valle di Susa 234 Vallee Blanche 252 Valley of the Temples 820 Vallunga 337 Valnerina the 594-5 Valpolicella 397-8 Valsesia 256-8 802 Valtellina 285 Valtournenche 255-6 Vaneze di Monte 319 vaporetto travel 380-1 Varallo 256 257 Varenna 306 Vasari Giorgio 55 57 Vasograven 319 Vasto 629 Vatican City 131-6 Vatican Museums 133-6 Velia 693 Veneto the 343-400 346 Venice 345-81 348-9 352-3
accommodation 370-3 cafes 375
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
children travel with 369 discount cards 351 drinking 376-7 entertainment 377-8 festivals 369 food 373-6 history 345-7 itineraries 347 shopping 378 379 sights 350-67 tourist information 350 travel tofrom 378-80 travel within 380-1
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Venosa 738-9 Ventimiglia 219-20 Ventotene 190-1 Verbania 298 Vercelli 245 Verdi Giuseppe 457 Verdi Country 456-7 Vernazza 209 Verona 392-7 394 Veronese Paolo 57 Versace Gianni 304 Vespasian 38 Vesuvio National Park 85 Vezio 306 Via Appia Antica 136-9 Via Ferrata delle Bocchette 322 Vibo Valentia 755 Vicenza 388-92 389 vie cave 554 vie ferrate 322 341 Vieste 701-2 701 Villa Adriana 181 Villa Balbianello 304 Villa Borghese 125-6 Villa Capra 390-1 Villa Carlotta 305 Villa Cipressi 306 Villa drsquoEste 181-2 Villa Floridiana 647 Villa Foscari 381 Villa Foscarini Rossi 382 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Kunkler 386 Villa Manin 422 Villa Maseacuter 392 Villa Monastero 306 Villa Pisani Nazionale 381-2 Villa Quintili 138 villa rentals 874-5 Villa Romana del Casale 818
Villa Rufolo 688 Villa Valmarana lsquoai Nanirsquo 390 Villa Welsperg 327 Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari 381 Villasimius 844 vineyards 442
Aosta 249 Barolo 240-1 Greve in Chianti 534 La Morra 240 Valpolicella 398
violins 289 Virgil 66 visas 887-8 see also passports Visconti family 43 Viterbo 184-7 185 Vittoriale degli Italiani il 310 volcanoes 82
waterfalls 311 616 water sports 72 weather 20 876-7 websites see internet resources weights 872 see inside front cover whale-watching 201 Whitaker Joseph 824-5 white-water rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
wildlife 81-4 see also individual animals amp plants
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
Mantua 289-93 290 maps 882 Maranello 449-50 Marano Lagunare 416 Maratea 740-1 marble quarries 520 Marcialonga 328 Marciana Marina 533 Marcus Aurelius 39 Marettimo 830-1 Marina del Cantone 680-1 Marina di Camerota 693 Marina di Carrara 520 Marina di Furore 685 Marina di Massa 520 Marina di Sorso 859 Marinetti Filippo Tommaso 58 Maritime Alps 237 Mark Antony (Marcus Antonius) 37 markets
Ballarograve 766 11 Catania 795 Genoa 203 La Pescheria 795 Mercato del Capo 766 Mercato della Vucciria 766
Marsala 823-4 Martello 336-7 Martina Franca 715-17 Martini Simone 52 56 Masaccio 53 57 497 mask making 367 masseria (manor farm) 716 Masua 846 Matera 733-8 12 mattanza 831 847 Matterhorn 255 Mausoleo di Cecilia Metell 138 Maximilian 412 measures 872 see also inside front
cover medical services 904 see also
health Medici family 43 476 492 494-5 Meier Richard 124 Menaggio 305 Merano 333-5 Mercato di Ballarograve 766 11 Messina 787-9 Messina Bridge project 87 Messner Reinhold 331 332 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Metaponto 733 metric conversions see inside front
Milan 260-79 266-9 accommodation 271-3 drinking 274-5 entertainment 275-6 festivals 271 food 273-4 gay amp lesbian travellers 276 shopping 277 sights 263-71 tourist information 263 tours 271 travel tofrom 277-8 travel within 278-9
Milazzo 777-8 Milky Way 234-5 Mille Miglia 449 Miramare 411-12 Mission Impossible III 659 Mithraism 130 mobile phones 885 Modena 446-9 447 Modena Cento Ore 449 Modica 815-16 Moena 328 Molise 619 621 625 629-33 630 Moltrasio 304 Molveno 322 323 Mona Lisa 54 Monastery of St Benedict 189 Moncalvo 244 Mondello 773 money 20-1 882-3 see also inside
front cover discount cards Monferrato 244-5 Monreale 773-4 Monselice 386 Montagnana 386 Montalcino 550-1 Monte Bondone 319 Monte Cassino 189 Monte Isola 307 Monte Ortobene 865 Monte Pellegrino 773 Monte Rocchetta 311 Monte Rosa 256 Monte SantrsquoAngelo 702-4 Monte Ursino 216 Montepulciano 551-2 Monterosso 209 Monti del Matese 631 Monti Ferru 852 Monti Sibillini 85 594-5 616-17
Aosta 249 Cala Gonone 868 Courmayeur 252-3 Milky Way 234 Stresa 296 tours 868 Val Badia 340
mountain huts 874 mountaineering 257
Messner Reinhold 331 332 Mozia 825 Mt Etna 806-8 800 Mt Vesuvius 672-3 mud baths 782 831 Muggia 402 412-13 multiculturalism 62-3 Mundi Stupor 41 Munthe Axel 663 Murano 366-7 Murat Joachim 755 Murgia plateau 713-18 737 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto Adige
331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano 779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale 645 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia
751 Museo Nazionale di San Matteo 525 Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo
Massimo alle Terme 128-9 Museum of Glass 366 museums amp galleries
270-1 Galleria drsquoArte Moderna 361 Galleria dellrsquoAccademia (Florshy
ence) 493 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 118 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Antica
(Rome) 123 Galleria Nazionale drsquoArte Moderna
e Contemporanea (Rome) 126
IND
EX
936 I N D E X ( M - N )
museums amp galleries continued Gallerie dellrsquoAccademia ( Venice)
358-9 Gallerie di Palazzo Leoni Montanshy
ari 390 Keats-Shelley Memorial House 124 MAAM (Museo a Cielo Aperto
dellrsquoArchitettura Moderna) 245 MAXXI art gallery 164 164 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Musei di Strada Nuova 197-8 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto
Adige 331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano
779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Naples) 645-6 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Sardinia) 838 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
dellrsquoUmbria 569 Museo Archeologico Paolo Orsi 811 Museo Civico (Siena) 538 Museo Civico (Vicenza)390 Museo Civico Archeologico
(Bologna) 430 Museo Claudio Faina e Civico 597 Museo Correr 357 Museo del Bargello 490 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo della Fondazione Querini
Stampalia 364 Museo della Scultura
Contemporanea 735-6 Museo della Seta 301 Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni
Sarde 865 Museo dellrsquoAra Pacis 124 158 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo dellrsquoOpera Metropolitana
539 Museo di Capodimonte 648 Museo di Roma 121 Museo di San Marco (Florence)
492 Museo Ebraico 363 Museo Ebraico di Roma 122 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Etrusco Guarnacci 548 Museo Fortuny 358
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Museo Nazionale Archeologico ( Taranto) 730
Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia 751
Museo Nazionale Romano Crypta Balbi 120
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Altemps 120-1
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo alle Terme 128-9
Museo Nazionale Romano Terme di Diocleziano 128
Museo Palatino 113 Museo Walser 256 Museum of Glass 366 Padiglione drsquoArte Contemporanea
accommodation 570-1 courses 570 drinking 572 festivals 570 food 571-2 history 565 language courses 570 shopping 573 sights 568-70 tourist information 567 travel tofrom 573-4 travel within 574-5
Perugia Universitagrave per Stranieri 570 Perugina chocolate factory 569-70 Perugino 56 Pesaro 609-11 Pescara 627-8 Pescasseroli 625 626 Peschici 698-700 Pescocostanzo 624-5 Petralia Soprana 775 Petralia Sottana 775 Petrarch 67 386 Phoenician ruins 825 847 phone cards 885 Piacenza 457-9 Piano Renzo 171-2 Piano Battaglia 775 Piazza Barberini 123-4 Piazza dei Miracoli 86 523-5 Piazza del Popolo 124-8 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Piazza della Repubblica 128-32 Piazza di Spagna 124 Piazza Navona 120 Piazza San Marco 355-7 Piazza San Pietro 132 Piazza Venezia 118-19 Piccione 563 Piedmont 192 194 220-45 221 Pienza 551 Pietagrave 133 Pietra di Bismantova 452 Pietrabbondante 632 Pietrapertosa 740 Pietrasanta 521 Pigra 304
Pila 249 pilgrimage 702-3 Pinacoteca di Brera 270 Pinzolo 324-6 Piombi 356 Pirandello Luigi 67 Pisa 521-8 522 Pisano Giovanni 56 539 Pisano Nicola 51 56 524 Pisciotta 693 Pistoia 512-14 513 Pitigliano 553-4 Pitti family 495-6 Pizzo 755 Plan de Corones 341 planning 20-4 see also itineraries
discount cards plants 83-4 Platamona 859 Plateau Rosa 255-6 256 Po Delta 463-4 poetry 67 Policoro 733 Polignano a Mare 712-13 politics 18-9 64-5 Pollara 783 Parco Nazionale del Pollino
(Basilicata) 85 741-2 Parco Nazionale del Pollino (Calabria)
85 743-5 pollution 84 718 878 Pompeii 86 673-6 Ponte di Calatrava 350 Ponza 190-1 pop music 70-1 popes 39-41 90 132 Popolo della Libertagrave 48 population 62-4 Pordenone 417 Porlezza 305 Porto Cervo 862 Porto Conte 857 Porto Ferro 857 Porto Teulada 845 Porto Torres 860 Porto Venere 213-14 Portocannone 633 Portoferraio 531-3 Portofino 206 Positano 682-4 683 Possagno 392 postal services 883-4 Potenza 739 Pozzuoli 657-8 Praia a Mare 745
I N D E X ( P - S ) 939
Praiano 684-5 Processione dei Serpari 624 Procida 669-72 Promontorio del Gargano 696-704 prosciutto 422-3 458 Prosecco 398-9 Provenzano Bernardo 761 public transport 900 Puglia 696-731 699 Pula 844-5 Punta della Dogana 359-60 Punta Helbronner 253 puppet shows 809 Pythagoras 733
Q Quadrilatero drsquoOro 277 Quintana 615
R Radda in Chianti 536 radio 872 rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
Ragusa 816-17 rail passes 895 Rapallo 207-8 Raphael 56 126 134 135 490 495 Ravello 687-8 Ravenna 464-8 465 Ravenna Festival 467 Red Brigades 47 Refounded Communist Party 47 Regata Storica 369 Reggio di Calabria 751-3 752 Reggio Emilia 450-2 451 religion 64 Remus 34 Renaissance art 53-5 56 57 Repubblica di San Marino 473 responsible travel 21-2
resources 22 Ribera Giuseppe de 57 Rimini 468-73 469 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Riola Sardo 852 Riomaggiore 210 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822 Riva 311 Riva del Garda 311 Rivello 740-1 Riviera di Levante 205-14
Riviera di Ponente 215-20 road distance chart 899 Robbia Andrea della 57 Rocca Meli Lupi 456 Rocca Sanvitale 456 rock carvings 830 rock-climbing see climbing Roghudi 751 Roman Baths of Caracalla 70 Roman Empire 34-6 40 35 Roman Forum 114 Rome 89-191 95-110
accommodation 144-50 children travel with 139 clubbing 168-71 cooking 140-2 courses 140-2 discount cards 111 drinking 165-8 entertainment 171-2 festivals 143-4 food 150-65 gay amp lesbian travellers 169 history 90 shopping 172-4 sights 112-39 tourist information 94-111 travel tofrom 174-5 travel within 175-9 walking tours 140 143 141
S Sabaudia 190 Sabbioneta 293 Sacile 402 417-18 Saepinum 630-1 sailing 207 812 861 saints 915 see also individual saints Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci (Chamber
of the Council of 10) 356 salami 594 Salentine Peninsula see Penisola
Salentina Salerno 689-92 689 Salina 783-4 Saline di Trapani 824-5 Salograve 309 Saluzzo 236-8 San Benedetto Po 293 San Carlo Borromeo 298
San Costantino Albanese 741-2 San Daniele del Friuli 402 422-3 San Domino 704 San Francesco di Paola 745 San Fruttuoso 205-6 San Gimignano 544-7 545 San Giorgio 398 San Giorgio Maggiore 365-6 San Giovanni 129-30 San Giovanni in Fiore 748 San Giovanni Rotondo 703 San Marino 473-4 473 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 San Martino in Pensilis 633 San Michele 366 San Nicola 704 San Pantaleo 824 862-3 San Paolo Albanese 741-2 San Pietro in Cariano 397 San Polo 360-1 San Remo 217-19 218 San Siro stadium 276 San Terenzo 214 Sansepolcro 558 Santa Caterina di Pittinuri 852 Santa Caterina di Siena 540 Santa Cecilia 131 Santa Cristina 337-8 Santa Croce 360-1 Santa Margherita 206-7 Santa Maria di Leuca 728 Santa Maria Navarrese 870 Santa Severina 749 Santa Teresa di Gallura 860-1 SantrsquoAgata sui due Golfi 680 SantrsquoAmbrogio di Valpolicella 398 SantrsquoAntioco 847-8 SantrsquoArcangelo 742 Santo Stefano drsquoAveto 208 Santuario della Madonna del Terzito
783 Santuario di San Michele 703 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri 851 Sardinia 184 833-70 834 Sarnano 618 Sarnico 306 Sarto Andrea del 56 Sarzana 214 Sassari 857-9 858 sassi 733 735-6 737 Sauris di Sopra 424 Saviano Roberto 67 68 Savona 215-16 Savonarola Girolamo 42 Scala Santa 129
Signorelli Luca 56 Sila National Park 85 silk 299 303 Sinis Peninsula 851-2 Sirmione 307 308-9 Sistine Chapel 135-6 skiing see also cross-country skiing
Abruzzo 625 Alta Badia 339 340 Aosta 249
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Bormio 336 Breuil-Cervinia 255-6 Camigliatello Silano 748 Campitello Matese 625 631 Campo di Giove 625 Campo Felice 625 Campo Imperatore 625 Cermis ski area 327 Champoluc 256 Cogne 254 Courmayeur 252 Dolomites 314 798 itinerary 32 Lecco 306 Lorica 748 Madonna di Campiglio 322 324-5 Merano 334-5 Milky Way 234 Molise 625 Ovindoli 625 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Passo della Stelvio 336 Pescasseroli 625 Pescocostanzo 625 Piano Battaglia 775 Plan de Corones 341 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 Sella Ronda 329 Stresa 296 Tarvisio 423 Val di Fassa 328 Val di Solda 336 Val Gardena 337 Valle drsquoAosta 247 Valtournenche 256
Spello 586-7 Sperlonga 190 Spilimbergo 418 Spoleto 590-3 591 Spoleto Festival see Festival dei Due
Mondi Spormaggiore 322 sport 71-2 squares see piazza St Benedict 189 St Catherine of Siena 119 St Francis of Assisi 580 582 583 584 St Michael the Archangel 702-3 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 St Peterrsquos Square 132 St Ubaldo 588 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232 Star Wars 659 Steinbeck John 682 Stelvio National Park 85 335-7 Stintino 860 stone towers 851 Strada del Vino Costa degli Etruschi 531 Stradivari Antonio 289 Strait of Messina bridge 789 strawberries 336 Strawberry Festival 336 Stresa 295-7 296 Stromboli 785-6 Studi di Scultura Carlo Nicoli 520 Stupor Mundi see Frederick I
tickets 276 Teatro Greco 791 Teatro La Fenice 357 378 Teatro Olimpico 390 Teatro Rossini 610-11 Teatro San Carlo 70 647 telephone services 884-5 television 62 Tellaro 214 Tempietto 131 163 Tempio di Antas 846 Tempio Malatestiano 470 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Caracalla 130 Terme di Diocleziano 128 Termini 126-9 Termoli 632-3 Terranova di Pollino 742 Tharros 851 The Last Supper 86 265 theatre 71 theft 878 theme parks 471 Theodosius I the Great 39 thermal springs
Colli Eugane 386 Preacute-St-Didier 253 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Rabbi 327 Terme di Saturnia 553 Terme Merano 334
Thomes 867 Tiberius 38 time 885 910 Tintoretto 57 367 tipping 883 Tirolo 335 Tiscali 868 Titian 57 118 Tivoli 181-2 Tizzano Val Parma 457 Todi 578-80 Tolmezzo 424 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes 867 Tomba di Giulietta (Julietrsquos Tomb) 393 Tommaso Filippo 58 Torbole 310-11
Torcello 367 Torgiano 575-6 Torino see Turin Torre Annunziata 86 Torre Branca 265 Torre Civica 237 Torre drsquoArnolfo 486 Torre degli Asinelli 431 Torre del Porticciolo 857 Torre delle Milizie 116 Torre dellrsquoElefante 838 Torre dellrsquoOrologio 357 Torre di Mariano II 849 Torre di San Pancrazio 838 Torre Pendente 523 161 Torre Porta a Terra 854 Torre Troyana o DellrsquoOrologio 244 Tortoligrave 870 Tortora 745 Toula Glacier 252 Tour du Mont Blanc 253 tourist information 885-6 tours
U Uccello Paolo 57 Udine 418-22 420 Uffizi 487-90 491 Ultra Trail Tour du Mont Blanc 252 Umbria 560-99 564 Umbria Jazz 570 Under the Tuscan Sun 558 underground tours 317 649
IND
EX
V
IND
EX
942 I N D E X ( U - W )
Urbino 606-9 607 Ururi 633 Ustica 774 UTMB 252
vaccinations 903 Val Badia 339-41 Val drsquoAveto 208 Val di Fassa 328-9 Val di Fiemme 327 Val di Genova 325 Val di Gressoney 256-8 Val di Magra 214 Val di Non 326 Val di Rabbi 326-7 Val di Solda 336 Val di Sole 326 Val Gardena 337-8 Val Grande National Park 85 Val Martello 336-7 Val Pusteria 341-2 Valcamonica rock drawings 86 Valentinian 39 Valle drsquoAosta 192 194 245-58 246 Valle drsquoAyas 256-8 Valle dei Templi 820 Valle di Chisone 234 Valle di Susa 234 Vallee Blanche 252 Valley of the Temples 820 Vallunga 337 Valnerina the 594-5 Valpolicella 397-8 Valsesia 256-8 802 Valtellina 285 Valtournenche 255-6 Vaneze di Monte 319 vaporetto travel 380-1 Varallo 256 257 Varenna 306 Vasari Giorgio 55 57 Vasograven 319 Vasto 629 Vatican City 131-6 Vatican Museums 133-6 Velia 693 Veneto the 343-400 346 Venice 345-81 348-9 352-3
accommodation 370-3 cafes 375
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
children travel with 369 discount cards 351 drinking 376-7 entertainment 377-8 festivals 369 food 373-6 history 345-7 itineraries 347 shopping 378 379 sights 350-67 tourist information 350 travel tofrom 378-80 travel within 380-1
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Venosa 738-9 Ventimiglia 219-20 Ventotene 190-1 Verbania 298 Vercelli 245 Verdi Giuseppe 457 Verdi Country 456-7 Vernazza 209 Verona 392-7 394 Veronese Paolo 57 Versace Gianni 304 Vespasian 38 Vesuvio National Park 85 Vezio 306 Via Appia Antica 136-9 Via Ferrata delle Bocchette 322 Vibo Valentia 755 Vicenza 388-92 389 vie cave 554 vie ferrate 322 341 Vieste 701-2 701 Villa Adriana 181 Villa Balbianello 304 Villa Borghese 125-6 Villa Capra 390-1 Villa Carlotta 305 Villa Cipressi 306 Villa drsquoEste 181-2 Villa Floridiana 647 Villa Foscari 381 Villa Foscarini Rossi 382 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Kunkler 386 Villa Manin 422 Villa Maseacuter 392 Villa Monastero 306 Villa Pisani Nazionale 381-2 Villa Quintili 138 villa rentals 874-5 Villa Romana del Casale 818
Villa Rufolo 688 Villa Valmarana lsquoai Nanirsquo 390 Villa Welsperg 327 Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari 381 Villasimius 844 vineyards 442
Aosta 249 Barolo 240-1 Greve in Chianti 534 La Morra 240 Valpolicella 398
violins 289 Virgil 66 visas 887-8 see also passports Visconti family 43 Viterbo 184-7 185 Vittoriale degli Italiani il 310 volcanoes 82
waterfalls 311 616 water sports 72 weather 20 876-7 websites see internet resources weights 872 see inside front cover whale-watching 201 Whitaker Joseph 824-5 white-water rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
wildlife 81-4 see also individual animals amp plants
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
museums amp galleries continued Gallerie dellrsquoAccademia ( Venice)
358-9 Gallerie di Palazzo Leoni Montanshy
ari 390 Keats-Shelley Memorial House 124 MAAM (Museo a Cielo Aperto
dellrsquoArchitettura Moderna) 245 MAXXI art gallery 164 164 Messner Mountain Museum 331 Musei di Strada Nuova 197-8 Museo Archeologico dellrsquoAlto
Adige 331 Museo Archeologico Eoliano
779-80 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Naples) 645-6 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
(Sardinia) 838 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
dellrsquoUmbria 569 Museo Archeologico Paolo Orsi 811 Museo Civico (Siena) 538 Museo Civico (Vicenza)390 Museo Civico Archeologico
(Bologna) 430 Museo Claudio Faina e Civico 597 Museo Correr 357 Museo del Bargello 490 Museo del Marmo 520 Museo del Vino 575 Museo della Fondazione Querini
Stampalia 364 Museo della Scultura
Contemporanea 735-6 Museo della Seta 301 Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni
Sarde 865 Museo dellrsquoAra Pacis 124 158 Museo dellrsquoOlivo e dellrsquoOlio 575 Museo dellrsquoOpera Metropolitana
539 Museo di Capodimonte 648 Museo di Roma 121 Museo di San Marco (Florence)
492 Museo Ebraico 363 Museo Ebraico di Roma 122 Museo e Galleria Borghese 125-6 Museo Etrusco Guarnacci 548 Museo Fortuny 358
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Museo Nazionale Archeologico ( Taranto) 730
Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia 751
Museo Nazionale Romano Crypta Balbi 120
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Altemps 120-1
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo alle Terme 128-9
Museo Nazionale Romano Terme di Diocleziano 128
Museo Palatino 113 Museo Walser 256 Museum of Glass 366 Padiglione drsquoArte Contemporanea
accommodation 570-1 courses 570 drinking 572 festivals 570 food 571-2 history 565 language courses 570 shopping 573 sights 568-70 tourist information 567 travel tofrom 573-4 travel within 574-5
Perugia Universitagrave per Stranieri 570 Perugina chocolate factory 569-70 Perugino 56 Pesaro 609-11 Pescara 627-8 Pescasseroli 625 626 Peschici 698-700 Pescocostanzo 624-5 Petralia Soprana 775 Petralia Sottana 775 Petrarch 67 386 Phoenician ruins 825 847 phone cards 885 Piacenza 457-9 Piano Renzo 171-2 Piano Battaglia 775 Piazza Barberini 123-4 Piazza dei Miracoli 86 523-5 Piazza del Popolo 124-8 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Piazza della Repubblica 128-32 Piazza di Spagna 124 Piazza Navona 120 Piazza San Marco 355-7 Piazza San Pietro 132 Piazza Venezia 118-19 Piccione 563 Piedmont 192 194 220-45 221 Pienza 551 Pietagrave 133 Pietra di Bismantova 452 Pietrabbondante 632 Pietrapertosa 740 Pietrasanta 521 Pigra 304
Pila 249 pilgrimage 702-3 Pinacoteca di Brera 270 Pinzolo 324-6 Piombi 356 Pirandello Luigi 67 Pisa 521-8 522 Pisano Giovanni 56 539 Pisano Nicola 51 56 524 Pisciotta 693 Pistoia 512-14 513 Pitigliano 553-4 Pitti family 495-6 Pizzo 755 Plan de Corones 341 planning 20-4 see also itineraries
discount cards plants 83-4 Platamona 859 Plateau Rosa 255-6 256 Po Delta 463-4 poetry 67 Policoro 733 Polignano a Mare 712-13 politics 18-9 64-5 Pollara 783 Parco Nazionale del Pollino
(Basilicata) 85 741-2 Parco Nazionale del Pollino (Calabria)
85 743-5 pollution 84 718 878 Pompeii 86 673-6 Ponte di Calatrava 350 Ponza 190-1 pop music 70-1 popes 39-41 90 132 Popolo della Libertagrave 48 population 62-4 Pordenone 417 Porlezza 305 Porto Cervo 862 Porto Conte 857 Porto Ferro 857 Porto Teulada 845 Porto Torres 860 Porto Venere 213-14 Portocannone 633 Portoferraio 531-3 Portofino 206 Positano 682-4 683 Possagno 392 postal services 883-4 Potenza 739 Pozzuoli 657-8 Praia a Mare 745
I N D E X ( P - S ) 939
Praiano 684-5 Processione dei Serpari 624 Procida 669-72 Promontorio del Gargano 696-704 prosciutto 422-3 458 Prosecco 398-9 Provenzano Bernardo 761 public transport 900 Puglia 696-731 699 Pula 844-5 Punta della Dogana 359-60 Punta Helbronner 253 puppet shows 809 Pythagoras 733
Q Quadrilatero drsquoOro 277 Quintana 615
R Radda in Chianti 536 radio 872 rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
Ragusa 816-17 rail passes 895 Rapallo 207-8 Raphael 56 126 134 135 490 495 Ravello 687-8 Ravenna 464-8 465 Ravenna Festival 467 Red Brigades 47 Refounded Communist Party 47 Regata Storica 369 Reggio di Calabria 751-3 752 Reggio Emilia 450-2 451 religion 64 Remus 34 Renaissance art 53-5 56 57 Repubblica di San Marino 473 responsible travel 21-2
resources 22 Ribera Giuseppe de 57 Rimini 468-73 469 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Riola Sardo 852 Riomaggiore 210 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822 Riva 311 Riva del Garda 311 Rivello 740-1 Riviera di Levante 205-14
Riviera di Ponente 215-20 road distance chart 899 Robbia Andrea della 57 Rocca Meli Lupi 456 Rocca Sanvitale 456 rock carvings 830 rock-climbing see climbing Roghudi 751 Roman Baths of Caracalla 70 Roman Empire 34-6 40 35 Roman Forum 114 Rome 89-191 95-110
accommodation 144-50 children travel with 139 clubbing 168-71 cooking 140-2 courses 140-2 discount cards 111 drinking 165-8 entertainment 171-2 festivals 143-4 food 150-65 gay amp lesbian travellers 169 history 90 shopping 172-4 sights 112-39 tourist information 94-111 travel tofrom 174-5 travel within 175-9 walking tours 140 143 141
S Sabaudia 190 Sabbioneta 293 Sacile 402 417-18 Saepinum 630-1 sailing 207 812 861 saints 915 see also individual saints Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci (Chamber
of the Council of 10) 356 salami 594 Salentine Peninsula see Penisola
Salentina Salerno 689-92 689 Salina 783-4 Saline di Trapani 824-5 Salograve 309 Saluzzo 236-8 San Benedetto Po 293 San Carlo Borromeo 298
San Costantino Albanese 741-2 San Daniele del Friuli 402 422-3 San Domino 704 San Francesco di Paola 745 San Fruttuoso 205-6 San Gimignano 544-7 545 San Giorgio 398 San Giorgio Maggiore 365-6 San Giovanni 129-30 San Giovanni in Fiore 748 San Giovanni Rotondo 703 San Marino 473-4 473 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 San Martino in Pensilis 633 San Michele 366 San Nicola 704 San Pantaleo 824 862-3 San Paolo Albanese 741-2 San Pietro in Cariano 397 San Polo 360-1 San Remo 217-19 218 San Siro stadium 276 San Terenzo 214 Sansepolcro 558 Santa Caterina di Pittinuri 852 Santa Caterina di Siena 540 Santa Cecilia 131 Santa Cristina 337-8 Santa Croce 360-1 Santa Margherita 206-7 Santa Maria di Leuca 728 Santa Maria Navarrese 870 Santa Severina 749 Santa Teresa di Gallura 860-1 SantrsquoAgata sui due Golfi 680 SantrsquoAmbrogio di Valpolicella 398 SantrsquoAntioco 847-8 SantrsquoArcangelo 742 Santo Stefano drsquoAveto 208 Santuario della Madonna del Terzito
783 Santuario di San Michele 703 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri 851 Sardinia 184 833-70 834 Sarnano 618 Sarnico 306 Sarto Andrea del 56 Sarzana 214 Sassari 857-9 858 sassi 733 735-6 737 Sauris di Sopra 424 Saviano Roberto 67 68 Savona 215-16 Savonarola Girolamo 42 Scala Santa 129
Signorelli Luca 56 Sila National Park 85 silk 299 303 Sinis Peninsula 851-2 Sirmione 307 308-9 Sistine Chapel 135-6 skiing see also cross-country skiing
Abruzzo 625 Alta Badia 339 340 Aosta 249
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Bormio 336 Breuil-Cervinia 255-6 Camigliatello Silano 748 Campitello Matese 625 631 Campo di Giove 625 Campo Felice 625 Campo Imperatore 625 Cermis ski area 327 Champoluc 256 Cogne 254 Courmayeur 252 Dolomites 314 798 itinerary 32 Lecco 306 Lorica 748 Madonna di Campiglio 322 324-5 Merano 334-5 Milky Way 234 Molise 625 Ovindoli 625 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Passo della Stelvio 336 Pescasseroli 625 Pescocostanzo 625 Piano Battaglia 775 Plan de Corones 341 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 Sella Ronda 329 Stresa 296 Tarvisio 423 Val di Fassa 328 Val di Solda 336 Val Gardena 337 Valle drsquoAosta 247 Valtournenche 256
Spello 586-7 Sperlonga 190 Spilimbergo 418 Spoleto 590-3 591 Spoleto Festival see Festival dei Due
Mondi Spormaggiore 322 sport 71-2 squares see piazza St Benedict 189 St Catherine of Siena 119 St Francis of Assisi 580 582 583 584 St Michael the Archangel 702-3 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 St Peterrsquos Square 132 St Ubaldo 588 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232 Star Wars 659 Steinbeck John 682 Stelvio National Park 85 335-7 Stintino 860 stone towers 851 Strada del Vino Costa degli Etruschi 531 Stradivari Antonio 289 Strait of Messina bridge 789 strawberries 336 Strawberry Festival 336 Stresa 295-7 296 Stromboli 785-6 Studi di Scultura Carlo Nicoli 520 Stupor Mundi see Frederick I
tickets 276 Teatro Greco 791 Teatro La Fenice 357 378 Teatro Olimpico 390 Teatro Rossini 610-11 Teatro San Carlo 70 647 telephone services 884-5 television 62 Tellaro 214 Tempietto 131 163 Tempio di Antas 846 Tempio Malatestiano 470 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Caracalla 130 Terme di Diocleziano 128 Termini 126-9 Termoli 632-3 Terranova di Pollino 742 Tharros 851 The Last Supper 86 265 theatre 71 theft 878 theme parks 471 Theodosius I the Great 39 thermal springs
Colli Eugane 386 Preacute-St-Didier 253 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Rabbi 327 Terme di Saturnia 553 Terme Merano 334
Thomes 867 Tiberius 38 time 885 910 Tintoretto 57 367 tipping 883 Tirolo 335 Tiscali 868 Titian 57 118 Tivoli 181-2 Tizzano Val Parma 457 Todi 578-80 Tolmezzo 424 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes 867 Tomba di Giulietta (Julietrsquos Tomb) 393 Tommaso Filippo 58 Torbole 310-11
Torcello 367 Torgiano 575-6 Torino see Turin Torre Annunziata 86 Torre Branca 265 Torre Civica 237 Torre drsquoArnolfo 486 Torre degli Asinelli 431 Torre del Porticciolo 857 Torre delle Milizie 116 Torre dellrsquoElefante 838 Torre dellrsquoOrologio 357 Torre di Mariano II 849 Torre di San Pancrazio 838 Torre Pendente 523 161 Torre Porta a Terra 854 Torre Troyana o DellrsquoOrologio 244 Tortoligrave 870 Tortora 745 Toula Glacier 252 Tour du Mont Blanc 253 tourist information 885-6 tours
U Uccello Paolo 57 Udine 418-22 420 Uffizi 487-90 491 Ultra Trail Tour du Mont Blanc 252 Umbria 560-99 564 Umbria Jazz 570 Under the Tuscan Sun 558 underground tours 317 649
IND
EX
V
IND
EX
942 I N D E X ( U - W )
Urbino 606-9 607 Ururi 633 Ustica 774 UTMB 252
vaccinations 903 Val Badia 339-41 Val drsquoAveto 208 Val di Fassa 328-9 Val di Fiemme 327 Val di Genova 325 Val di Gressoney 256-8 Val di Magra 214 Val di Non 326 Val di Rabbi 326-7 Val di Solda 336 Val di Sole 326 Val Gardena 337-8 Val Grande National Park 85 Val Martello 336-7 Val Pusteria 341-2 Valcamonica rock drawings 86 Valentinian 39 Valle drsquoAosta 192 194 245-58 246 Valle drsquoAyas 256-8 Valle dei Templi 820 Valle di Chisone 234 Valle di Susa 234 Vallee Blanche 252 Valley of the Temples 820 Vallunga 337 Valnerina the 594-5 Valpolicella 397-8 Valsesia 256-8 802 Valtellina 285 Valtournenche 255-6 Vaneze di Monte 319 vaporetto travel 380-1 Varallo 256 257 Varenna 306 Vasari Giorgio 55 57 Vasograven 319 Vasto 629 Vatican City 131-6 Vatican Museums 133-6 Velia 693 Veneto the 343-400 346 Venice 345-81 348-9 352-3
accommodation 370-3 cafes 375
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
children travel with 369 discount cards 351 drinking 376-7 entertainment 377-8 festivals 369 food 373-6 history 345-7 itineraries 347 shopping 378 379 sights 350-67 tourist information 350 travel tofrom 378-80 travel within 380-1
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Venosa 738-9 Ventimiglia 219-20 Ventotene 190-1 Verbania 298 Vercelli 245 Verdi Giuseppe 457 Verdi Country 456-7 Vernazza 209 Verona 392-7 394 Veronese Paolo 57 Versace Gianni 304 Vespasian 38 Vesuvio National Park 85 Vezio 306 Via Appia Antica 136-9 Via Ferrata delle Bocchette 322 Vibo Valentia 755 Vicenza 388-92 389 vie cave 554 vie ferrate 322 341 Vieste 701-2 701 Villa Adriana 181 Villa Balbianello 304 Villa Borghese 125-6 Villa Capra 390-1 Villa Carlotta 305 Villa Cipressi 306 Villa drsquoEste 181-2 Villa Floridiana 647 Villa Foscari 381 Villa Foscarini Rossi 382 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Kunkler 386 Villa Manin 422 Villa Maseacuter 392 Villa Monastero 306 Villa Pisani Nazionale 381-2 Villa Quintili 138 villa rentals 874-5 Villa Romana del Casale 818
Villa Rufolo 688 Villa Valmarana lsquoai Nanirsquo 390 Villa Welsperg 327 Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari 381 Villasimius 844 vineyards 442
Aosta 249 Barolo 240-1 Greve in Chianti 534 La Morra 240 Valpolicella 398
violins 289 Virgil 66 visas 887-8 see also passports Visconti family 43 Viterbo 184-7 185 Vittoriale degli Italiani il 310 volcanoes 82
waterfalls 311 616 water sports 72 weather 20 876-7 websites see internet resources weights 872 see inside front cover whale-watching 201 Whitaker Joseph 824-5 white-water rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
wildlife 81-4 see also individual animals amp plants
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
accommodation 570-1 courses 570 drinking 572 festivals 570 food 571-2 history 565 language courses 570 shopping 573 sights 568-70 tourist information 567 travel tofrom 573-4 travel within 574-5
Perugia Universitagrave per Stranieri 570 Perugina chocolate factory 569-70 Perugino 56 Pesaro 609-11 Pescara 627-8 Pescasseroli 625 626 Peschici 698-700 Pescocostanzo 624-5 Petralia Soprana 775 Petralia Sottana 775 Petrarch 67 386 Phoenician ruins 825 847 phone cards 885 Piacenza 457-9 Piano Renzo 171-2 Piano Battaglia 775 Piazza Barberini 123-4 Piazza dei Miracoli 86 523-5 Piazza del Popolo 124-8 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Piazza della Repubblica 128-32 Piazza di Spagna 124 Piazza Navona 120 Piazza San Marco 355-7 Piazza San Pietro 132 Piazza Venezia 118-19 Piccione 563 Piedmont 192 194 220-45 221 Pienza 551 Pietagrave 133 Pietra di Bismantova 452 Pietrabbondante 632 Pietrapertosa 740 Pietrasanta 521 Pigra 304
Pila 249 pilgrimage 702-3 Pinacoteca di Brera 270 Pinzolo 324-6 Piombi 356 Pirandello Luigi 67 Pisa 521-8 522 Pisano Giovanni 56 539 Pisano Nicola 51 56 524 Pisciotta 693 Pistoia 512-14 513 Pitigliano 553-4 Pitti family 495-6 Pizzo 755 Plan de Corones 341 planning 20-4 see also itineraries
discount cards plants 83-4 Platamona 859 Plateau Rosa 255-6 256 Po Delta 463-4 poetry 67 Policoro 733 Polignano a Mare 712-13 politics 18-9 64-5 Pollara 783 Parco Nazionale del Pollino
(Basilicata) 85 741-2 Parco Nazionale del Pollino (Calabria)
85 743-5 pollution 84 718 878 Pompeii 86 673-6 Ponte di Calatrava 350 Ponza 190-1 pop music 70-1 popes 39-41 90 132 Popolo della Libertagrave 48 population 62-4 Pordenone 417 Porlezza 305 Porto Cervo 862 Porto Conte 857 Porto Ferro 857 Porto Teulada 845 Porto Torres 860 Porto Venere 213-14 Portocannone 633 Portoferraio 531-3 Portofino 206 Positano 682-4 683 Possagno 392 postal services 883-4 Potenza 739 Pozzuoli 657-8 Praia a Mare 745
I N D E X ( P - S ) 939
Praiano 684-5 Processione dei Serpari 624 Procida 669-72 Promontorio del Gargano 696-704 prosciutto 422-3 458 Prosecco 398-9 Provenzano Bernardo 761 public transport 900 Puglia 696-731 699 Pula 844-5 Punta della Dogana 359-60 Punta Helbronner 253 puppet shows 809 Pythagoras 733
Q Quadrilatero drsquoOro 277 Quintana 615
R Radda in Chianti 536 radio 872 rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
Ragusa 816-17 rail passes 895 Rapallo 207-8 Raphael 56 126 134 135 490 495 Ravello 687-8 Ravenna 464-8 465 Ravenna Festival 467 Red Brigades 47 Refounded Communist Party 47 Regata Storica 369 Reggio di Calabria 751-3 752 Reggio Emilia 450-2 451 religion 64 Remus 34 Renaissance art 53-5 56 57 Repubblica di San Marino 473 responsible travel 21-2
resources 22 Ribera Giuseppe de 57 Rimini 468-73 469 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Riola Sardo 852 Riomaggiore 210 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822 Riva 311 Riva del Garda 311 Rivello 740-1 Riviera di Levante 205-14
Riviera di Ponente 215-20 road distance chart 899 Robbia Andrea della 57 Rocca Meli Lupi 456 Rocca Sanvitale 456 rock carvings 830 rock-climbing see climbing Roghudi 751 Roman Baths of Caracalla 70 Roman Empire 34-6 40 35 Roman Forum 114 Rome 89-191 95-110
accommodation 144-50 children travel with 139 clubbing 168-71 cooking 140-2 courses 140-2 discount cards 111 drinking 165-8 entertainment 171-2 festivals 143-4 food 150-65 gay amp lesbian travellers 169 history 90 shopping 172-4 sights 112-39 tourist information 94-111 travel tofrom 174-5 travel within 175-9 walking tours 140 143 141
S Sabaudia 190 Sabbioneta 293 Sacile 402 417-18 Saepinum 630-1 sailing 207 812 861 saints 915 see also individual saints Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci (Chamber
of the Council of 10) 356 salami 594 Salentine Peninsula see Penisola
Salentina Salerno 689-92 689 Salina 783-4 Saline di Trapani 824-5 Salograve 309 Saluzzo 236-8 San Benedetto Po 293 San Carlo Borromeo 298
San Costantino Albanese 741-2 San Daniele del Friuli 402 422-3 San Domino 704 San Francesco di Paola 745 San Fruttuoso 205-6 San Gimignano 544-7 545 San Giorgio 398 San Giorgio Maggiore 365-6 San Giovanni 129-30 San Giovanni in Fiore 748 San Giovanni Rotondo 703 San Marino 473-4 473 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 San Martino in Pensilis 633 San Michele 366 San Nicola 704 San Pantaleo 824 862-3 San Paolo Albanese 741-2 San Pietro in Cariano 397 San Polo 360-1 San Remo 217-19 218 San Siro stadium 276 San Terenzo 214 Sansepolcro 558 Santa Caterina di Pittinuri 852 Santa Caterina di Siena 540 Santa Cecilia 131 Santa Cristina 337-8 Santa Croce 360-1 Santa Margherita 206-7 Santa Maria di Leuca 728 Santa Maria Navarrese 870 Santa Severina 749 Santa Teresa di Gallura 860-1 SantrsquoAgata sui due Golfi 680 SantrsquoAmbrogio di Valpolicella 398 SantrsquoAntioco 847-8 SantrsquoArcangelo 742 Santo Stefano drsquoAveto 208 Santuario della Madonna del Terzito
783 Santuario di San Michele 703 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri 851 Sardinia 184 833-70 834 Sarnano 618 Sarnico 306 Sarto Andrea del 56 Sarzana 214 Sassari 857-9 858 sassi 733 735-6 737 Sauris di Sopra 424 Saviano Roberto 67 68 Savona 215-16 Savonarola Girolamo 42 Scala Santa 129
Signorelli Luca 56 Sila National Park 85 silk 299 303 Sinis Peninsula 851-2 Sirmione 307 308-9 Sistine Chapel 135-6 skiing see also cross-country skiing
Abruzzo 625 Alta Badia 339 340 Aosta 249
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Bormio 336 Breuil-Cervinia 255-6 Camigliatello Silano 748 Campitello Matese 625 631 Campo di Giove 625 Campo Felice 625 Campo Imperatore 625 Cermis ski area 327 Champoluc 256 Cogne 254 Courmayeur 252 Dolomites 314 798 itinerary 32 Lecco 306 Lorica 748 Madonna di Campiglio 322 324-5 Merano 334-5 Milky Way 234 Molise 625 Ovindoli 625 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Passo della Stelvio 336 Pescasseroli 625 Pescocostanzo 625 Piano Battaglia 775 Plan de Corones 341 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 Sella Ronda 329 Stresa 296 Tarvisio 423 Val di Fassa 328 Val di Solda 336 Val Gardena 337 Valle drsquoAosta 247 Valtournenche 256
Spello 586-7 Sperlonga 190 Spilimbergo 418 Spoleto 590-3 591 Spoleto Festival see Festival dei Due
Mondi Spormaggiore 322 sport 71-2 squares see piazza St Benedict 189 St Catherine of Siena 119 St Francis of Assisi 580 582 583 584 St Michael the Archangel 702-3 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 St Peterrsquos Square 132 St Ubaldo 588 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232 Star Wars 659 Steinbeck John 682 Stelvio National Park 85 335-7 Stintino 860 stone towers 851 Strada del Vino Costa degli Etruschi 531 Stradivari Antonio 289 Strait of Messina bridge 789 strawberries 336 Strawberry Festival 336 Stresa 295-7 296 Stromboli 785-6 Studi di Scultura Carlo Nicoli 520 Stupor Mundi see Frederick I
tickets 276 Teatro Greco 791 Teatro La Fenice 357 378 Teatro Olimpico 390 Teatro Rossini 610-11 Teatro San Carlo 70 647 telephone services 884-5 television 62 Tellaro 214 Tempietto 131 163 Tempio di Antas 846 Tempio Malatestiano 470 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Caracalla 130 Terme di Diocleziano 128 Termini 126-9 Termoli 632-3 Terranova di Pollino 742 Tharros 851 The Last Supper 86 265 theatre 71 theft 878 theme parks 471 Theodosius I the Great 39 thermal springs
Colli Eugane 386 Preacute-St-Didier 253 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Rabbi 327 Terme di Saturnia 553 Terme Merano 334
Thomes 867 Tiberius 38 time 885 910 Tintoretto 57 367 tipping 883 Tirolo 335 Tiscali 868 Titian 57 118 Tivoli 181-2 Tizzano Val Parma 457 Todi 578-80 Tolmezzo 424 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes 867 Tomba di Giulietta (Julietrsquos Tomb) 393 Tommaso Filippo 58 Torbole 310-11
Torcello 367 Torgiano 575-6 Torino see Turin Torre Annunziata 86 Torre Branca 265 Torre Civica 237 Torre drsquoArnolfo 486 Torre degli Asinelli 431 Torre del Porticciolo 857 Torre delle Milizie 116 Torre dellrsquoElefante 838 Torre dellrsquoOrologio 357 Torre di Mariano II 849 Torre di San Pancrazio 838 Torre Pendente 523 161 Torre Porta a Terra 854 Torre Troyana o DellrsquoOrologio 244 Tortoligrave 870 Tortora 745 Toula Glacier 252 Tour du Mont Blanc 253 tourist information 885-6 tours
U Uccello Paolo 57 Udine 418-22 420 Uffizi 487-90 491 Ultra Trail Tour du Mont Blanc 252 Umbria 560-99 564 Umbria Jazz 570 Under the Tuscan Sun 558 underground tours 317 649
IND
EX
V
IND
EX
942 I N D E X ( U - W )
Urbino 606-9 607 Ururi 633 Ustica 774 UTMB 252
vaccinations 903 Val Badia 339-41 Val drsquoAveto 208 Val di Fassa 328-9 Val di Fiemme 327 Val di Genova 325 Val di Gressoney 256-8 Val di Magra 214 Val di Non 326 Val di Rabbi 326-7 Val di Solda 336 Val di Sole 326 Val Gardena 337-8 Val Grande National Park 85 Val Martello 336-7 Val Pusteria 341-2 Valcamonica rock drawings 86 Valentinian 39 Valle drsquoAosta 192 194 245-58 246 Valle drsquoAyas 256-8 Valle dei Templi 820 Valle di Chisone 234 Valle di Susa 234 Vallee Blanche 252 Valley of the Temples 820 Vallunga 337 Valnerina the 594-5 Valpolicella 397-8 Valsesia 256-8 802 Valtellina 285 Valtournenche 255-6 Vaneze di Monte 319 vaporetto travel 380-1 Varallo 256 257 Varenna 306 Vasari Giorgio 55 57 Vasograven 319 Vasto 629 Vatican City 131-6 Vatican Museums 133-6 Velia 693 Veneto the 343-400 346 Venice 345-81 348-9 352-3
accommodation 370-3 cafes 375
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
children travel with 369 discount cards 351 drinking 376-7 entertainment 377-8 festivals 369 food 373-6 history 345-7 itineraries 347 shopping 378 379 sights 350-67 tourist information 350 travel tofrom 378-80 travel within 380-1
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Venosa 738-9 Ventimiglia 219-20 Ventotene 190-1 Verbania 298 Vercelli 245 Verdi Giuseppe 457 Verdi Country 456-7 Vernazza 209 Verona 392-7 394 Veronese Paolo 57 Versace Gianni 304 Vespasian 38 Vesuvio National Park 85 Vezio 306 Via Appia Antica 136-9 Via Ferrata delle Bocchette 322 Vibo Valentia 755 Vicenza 388-92 389 vie cave 554 vie ferrate 322 341 Vieste 701-2 701 Villa Adriana 181 Villa Balbianello 304 Villa Borghese 125-6 Villa Capra 390-1 Villa Carlotta 305 Villa Cipressi 306 Villa drsquoEste 181-2 Villa Floridiana 647 Villa Foscari 381 Villa Foscarini Rossi 382 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Kunkler 386 Villa Manin 422 Villa Maseacuter 392 Villa Monastero 306 Villa Pisani Nazionale 381-2 Villa Quintili 138 villa rentals 874-5 Villa Romana del Casale 818
Villa Rufolo 688 Villa Valmarana lsquoai Nanirsquo 390 Villa Welsperg 327 Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari 381 Villasimius 844 vineyards 442
Aosta 249 Barolo 240-1 Greve in Chianti 534 La Morra 240 Valpolicella 398
violins 289 Virgil 66 visas 887-8 see also passports Visconti family 43 Viterbo 184-7 185 Vittoriale degli Italiani il 310 volcanoes 82
waterfalls 311 616 water sports 72 weather 20 876-7 websites see internet resources weights 872 see inside front cover whale-watching 201 Whitaker Joseph 824-5 white-water rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
wildlife 81-4 see also individual animals amp plants
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
accommodation 570-1 courses 570 drinking 572 festivals 570 food 571-2 history 565 language courses 570 shopping 573 sights 568-70 tourist information 567 travel tofrom 573-4 travel within 574-5
Perugia Universitagrave per Stranieri 570 Perugina chocolate factory 569-70 Perugino 56 Pesaro 609-11 Pescara 627-8 Pescasseroli 625 626 Peschici 698-700 Pescocostanzo 624-5 Petralia Soprana 775 Petralia Sottana 775 Petrarch 67 386 Phoenician ruins 825 847 phone cards 885 Piacenza 457-9 Piano Renzo 171-2 Piano Battaglia 775 Piazza Barberini 123-4 Piazza dei Miracoli 86 523-5 Piazza del Popolo 124-8 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Piazza della Repubblica 128-32 Piazza di Spagna 124 Piazza Navona 120 Piazza San Marco 355-7 Piazza San Pietro 132 Piazza Venezia 118-19 Piccione 563 Piedmont 192 194 220-45 221 Pienza 551 Pietagrave 133 Pietra di Bismantova 452 Pietrabbondante 632 Pietrapertosa 740 Pietrasanta 521 Pigra 304
Pila 249 pilgrimage 702-3 Pinacoteca di Brera 270 Pinzolo 324-6 Piombi 356 Pirandello Luigi 67 Pisa 521-8 522 Pisano Giovanni 56 539 Pisano Nicola 51 56 524 Pisciotta 693 Pistoia 512-14 513 Pitigliano 553-4 Pitti family 495-6 Pizzo 755 Plan de Corones 341 planning 20-4 see also itineraries
discount cards plants 83-4 Platamona 859 Plateau Rosa 255-6 256 Po Delta 463-4 poetry 67 Policoro 733 Polignano a Mare 712-13 politics 18-9 64-5 Pollara 783 Parco Nazionale del Pollino
(Basilicata) 85 741-2 Parco Nazionale del Pollino (Calabria)
85 743-5 pollution 84 718 878 Pompeii 86 673-6 Ponte di Calatrava 350 Ponza 190-1 pop music 70-1 popes 39-41 90 132 Popolo della Libertagrave 48 population 62-4 Pordenone 417 Porlezza 305 Porto Cervo 862 Porto Conte 857 Porto Ferro 857 Porto Teulada 845 Porto Torres 860 Porto Venere 213-14 Portocannone 633 Portoferraio 531-3 Portofino 206 Positano 682-4 683 Possagno 392 postal services 883-4 Potenza 739 Pozzuoli 657-8 Praia a Mare 745
I N D E X ( P - S ) 939
Praiano 684-5 Processione dei Serpari 624 Procida 669-72 Promontorio del Gargano 696-704 prosciutto 422-3 458 Prosecco 398-9 Provenzano Bernardo 761 public transport 900 Puglia 696-731 699 Pula 844-5 Punta della Dogana 359-60 Punta Helbronner 253 puppet shows 809 Pythagoras 733
Q Quadrilatero drsquoOro 277 Quintana 615
R Radda in Chianti 536 radio 872 rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
Ragusa 816-17 rail passes 895 Rapallo 207-8 Raphael 56 126 134 135 490 495 Ravello 687-8 Ravenna 464-8 465 Ravenna Festival 467 Red Brigades 47 Refounded Communist Party 47 Regata Storica 369 Reggio di Calabria 751-3 752 Reggio Emilia 450-2 451 religion 64 Remus 34 Renaissance art 53-5 56 57 Repubblica di San Marino 473 responsible travel 21-2
resources 22 Ribera Giuseppe de 57 Rimini 468-73 469 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Riola Sardo 852 Riomaggiore 210 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822 Riva 311 Riva del Garda 311 Rivello 740-1 Riviera di Levante 205-14
Riviera di Ponente 215-20 road distance chart 899 Robbia Andrea della 57 Rocca Meli Lupi 456 Rocca Sanvitale 456 rock carvings 830 rock-climbing see climbing Roghudi 751 Roman Baths of Caracalla 70 Roman Empire 34-6 40 35 Roman Forum 114 Rome 89-191 95-110
accommodation 144-50 children travel with 139 clubbing 168-71 cooking 140-2 courses 140-2 discount cards 111 drinking 165-8 entertainment 171-2 festivals 143-4 food 150-65 gay amp lesbian travellers 169 history 90 shopping 172-4 sights 112-39 tourist information 94-111 travel tofrom 174-5 travel within 175-9 walking tours 140 143 141
S Sabaudia 190 Sabbioneta 293 Sacile 402 417-18 Saepinum 630-1 sailing 207 812 861 saints 915 see also individual saints Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci (Chamber
of the Council of 10) 356 salami 594 Salentine Peninsula see Penisola
Salentina Salerno 689-92 689 Salina 783-4 Saline di Trapani 824-5 Salograve 309 Saluzzo 236-8 San Benedetto Po 293 San Carlo Borromeo 298
San Costantino Albanese 741-2 San Daniele del Friuli 402 422-3 San Domino 704 San Francesco di Paola 745 San Fruttuoso 205-6 San Gimignano 544-7 545 San Giorgio 398 San Giorgio Maggiore 365-6 San Giovanni 129-30 San Giovanni in Fiore 748 San Giovanni Rotondo 703 San Marino 473-4 473 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 San Martino in Pensilis 633 San Michele 366 San Nicola 704 San Pantaleo 824 862-3 San Paolo Albanese 741-2 San Pietro in Cariano 397 San Polo 360-1 San Remo 217-19 218 San Siro stadium 276 San Terenzo 214 Sansepolcro 558 Santa Caterina di Pittinuri 852 Santa Caterina di Siena 540 Santa Cecilia 131 Santa Cristina 337-8 Santa Croce 360-1 Santa Margherita 206-7 Santa Maria di Leuca 728 Santa Maria Navarrese 870 Santa Severina 749 Santa Teresa di Gallura 860-1 SantrsquoAgata sui due Golfi 680 SantrsquoAmbrogio di Valpolicella 398 SantrsquoAntioco 847-8 SantrsquoArcangelo 742 Santo Stefano drsquoAveto 208 Santuario della Madonna del Terzito
783 Santuario di San Michele 703 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri 851 Sardinia 184 833-70 834 Sarnano 618 Sarnico 306 Sarto Andrea del 56 Sarzana 214 Sassari 857-9 858 sassi 733 735-6 737 Sauris di Sopra 424 Saviano Roberto 67 68 Savona 215-16 Savonarola Girolamo 42 Scala Santa 129
Signorelli Luca 56 Sila National Park 85 silk 299 303 Sinis Peninsula 851-2 Sirmione 307 308-9 Sistine Chapel 135-6 skiing see also cross-country skiing
Abruzzo 625 Alta Badia 339 340 Aosta 249
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Bormio 336 Breuil-Cervinia 255-6 Camigliatello Silano 748 Campitello Matese 625 631 Campo di Giove 625 Campo Felice 625 Campo Imperatore 625 Cermis ski area 327 Champoluc 256 Cogne 254 Courmayeur 252 Dolomites 314 798 itinerary 32 Lecco 306 Lorica 748 Madonna di Campiglio 322 324-5 Merano 334-5 Milky Way 234 Molise 625 Ovindoli 625 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Passo della Stelvio 336 Pescasseroli 625 Pescocostanzo 625 Piano Battaglia 775 Plan de Corones 341 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 Sella Ronda 329 Stresa 296 Tarvisio 423 Val di Fassa 328 Val di Solda 336 Val Gardena 337 Valle drsquoAosta 247 Valtournenche 256
Spello 586-7 Sperlonga 190 Spilimbergo 418 Spoleto 590-3 591 Spoleto Festival see Festival dei Due
Mondi Spormaggiore 322 sport 71-2 squares see piazza St Benedict 189 St Catherine of Siena 119 St Francis of Assisi 580 582 583 584 St Michael the Archangel 702-3 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 St Peterrsquos Square 132 St Ubaldo 588 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232 Star Wars 659 Steinbeck John 682 Stelvio National Park 85 335-7 Stintino 860 stone towers 851 Strada del Vino Costa degli Etruschi 531 Stradivari Antonio 289 Strait of Messina bridge 789 strawberries 336 Strawberry Festival 336 Stresa 295-7 296 Stromboli 785-6 Studi di Scultura Carlo Nicoli 520 Stupor Mundi see Frederick I
tickets 276 Teatro Greco 791 Teatro La Fenice 357 378 Teatro Olimpico 390 Teatro Rossini 610-11 Teatro San Carlo 70 647 telephone services 884-5 television 62 Tellaro 214 Tempietto 131 163 Tempio di Antas 846 Tempio Malatestiano 470 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Caracalla 130 Terme di Diocleziano 128 Termini 126-9 Termoli 632-3 Terranova di Pollino 742 Tharros 851 The Last Supper 86 265 theatre 71 theft 878 theme parks 471 Theodosius I the Great 39 thermal springs
Colli Eugane 386 Preacute-St-Didier 253 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Rabbi 327 Terme di Saturnia 553 Terme Merano 334
Thomes 867 Tiberius 38 time 885 910 Tintoretto 57 367 tipping 883 Tirolo 335 Tiscali 868 Titian 57 118 Tivoli 181-2 Tizzano Val Parma 457 Todi 578-80 Tolmezzo 424 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes 867 Tomba di Giulietta (Julietrsquos Tomb) 393 Tommaso Filippo 58 Torbole 310-11
Torcello 367 Torgiano 575-6 Torino see Turin Torre Annunziata 86 Torre Branca 265 Torre Civica 237 Torre drsquoArnolfo 486 Torre degli Asinelli 431 Torre del Porticciolo 857 Torre delle Milizie 116 Torre dellrsquoElefante 838 Torre dellrsquoOrologio 357 Torre di Mariano II 849 Torre di San Pancrazio 838 Torre Pendente 523 161 Torre Porta a Terra 854 Torre Troyana o DellrsquoOrologio 244 Tortoligrave 870 Tortora 745 Toula Glacier 252 Tour du Mont Blanc 253 tourist information 885-6 tours
U Uccello Paolo 57 Udine 418-22 420 Uffizi 487-90 491 Ultra Trail Tour du Mont Blanc 252 Umbria 560-99 564 Umbria Jazz 570 Under the Tuscan Sun 558 underground tours 317 649
IND
EX
V
IND
EX
942 I N D E X ( U - W )
Urbino 606-9 607 Ururi 633 Ustica 774 UTMB 252
vaccinations 903 Val Badia 339-41 Val drsquoAveto 208 Val di Fassa 328-9 Val di Fiemme 327 Val di Genova 325 Val di Gressoney 256-8 Val di Magra 214 Val di Non 326 Val di Rabbi 326-7 Val di Solda 336 Val di Sole 326 Val Gardena 337-8 Val Grande National Park 85 Val Martello 336-7 Val Pusteria 341-2 Valcamonica rock drawings 86 Valentinian 39 Valle drsquoAosta 192 194 245-58 246 Valle drsquoAyas 256-8 Valle dei Templi 820 Valle di Chisone 234 Valle di Susa 234 Vallee Blanche 252 Valley of the Temples 820 Vallunga 337 Valnerina the 594-5 Valpolicella 397-8 Valsesia 256-8 802 Valtellina 285 Valtournenche 255-6 Vaneze di Monte 319 vaporetto travel 380-1 Varallo 256 257 Varenna 306 Vasari Giorgio 55 57 Vasograven 319 Vasto 629 Vatican City 131-6 Vatican Museums 133-6 Velia 693 Veneto the 343-400 346 Venice 345-81 348-9 352-3
accommodation 370-3 cafes 375
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
children travel with 369 discount cards 351 drinking 376-7 entertainment 377-8 festivals 369 food 373-6 history 345-7 itineraries 347 shopping 378 379 sights 350-67 tourist information 350 travel tofrom 378-80 travel within 380-1
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Venosa 738-9 Ventimiglia 219-20 Ventotene 190-1 Verbania 298 Vercelli 245 Verdi Giuseppe 457 Verdi Country 456-7 Vernazza 209 Verona 392-7 394 Veronese Paolo 57 Versace Gianni 304 Vespasian 38 Vesuvio National Park 85 Vezio 306 Via Appia Antica 136-9 Via Ferrata delle Bocchette 322 Vibo Valentia 755 Vicenza 388-92 389 vie cave 554 vie ferrate 322 341 Vieste 701-2 701 Villa Adriana 181 Villa Balbianello 304 Villa Borghese 125-6 Villa Capra 390-1 Villa Carlotta 305 Villa Cipressi 306 Villa drsquoEste 181-2 Villa Floridiana 647 Villa Foscari 381 Villa Foscarini Rossi 382 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Kunkler 386 Villa Manin 422 Villa Maseacuter 392 Villa Monastero 306 Villa Pisani Nazionale 381-2 Villa Quintili 138 villa rentals 874-5 Villa Romana del Casale 818
Villa Rufolo 688 Villa Valmarana lsquoai Nanirsquo 390 Villa Welsperg 327 Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari 381 Villasimius 844 vineyards 442
Aosta 249 Barolo 240-1 Greve in Chianti 534 La Morra 240 Valpolicella 398
violins 289 Virgil 66 visas 887-8 see also passports Visconti family 43 Viterbo 184-7 185 Vittoriale degli Italiani il 310 volcanoes 82
waterfalls 311 616 water sports 72 weather 20 876-7 websites see internet resources weights 872 see inside front cover whale-watching 201 Whitaker Joseph 824-5 white-water rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
wildlife 81-4 see also individual animals amp plants
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
Praiano 684-5 Processione dei Serpari 624 Procida 669-72 Promontorio del Gargano 696-704 prosciutto 422-3 458 Prosecco 398-9 Provenzano Bernardo 761 public transport 900 Puglia 696-731 699 Pula 844-5 Punta della Dogana 359-60 Punta Helbronner 253 puppet shows 809 Pythagoras 733
Q Quadrilatero drsquoOro 277 Quintana 615
R Radda in Chianti 536 radio 872 rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
Ragusa 816-17 rail passes 895 Rapallo 207-8 Raphael 56 126 134 135 490 495 Ravello 687-8 Ravenna 464-8 465 Ravenna Festival 467 Red Brigades 47 Refounded Communist Party 47 Regata Storica 369 Reggio di Calabria 751-3 752 Reggio Emilia 450-2 451 religion 64 Remus 34 Renaissance art 53-5 56 57 Repubblica di San Marino 473 responsible travel 21-2
resources 22 Ribera Giuseppe de 57 Rimini 468-73 469 Rimini Jazz Festival 471 Riola Sardo 852 Riomaggiore 210 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822 Riva 311 Riva del Garda 311 Rivello 740-1 Riviera di Levante 205-14
Riviera di Ponente 215-20 road distance chart 899 Robbia Andrea della 57 Rocca Meli Lupi 456 Rocca Sanvitale 456 rock carvings 830 rock-climbing see climbing Roghudi 751 Roman Baths of Caracalla 70 Roman Empire 34-6 40 35 Roman Forum 114 Rome 89-191 95-110
accommodation 144-50 children travel with 139 clubbing 168-71 cooking 140-2 courses 140-2 discount cards 111 drinking 165-8 entertainment 171-2 festivals 143-4 food 150-65 gay amp lesbian travellers 169 history 90 shopping 172-4 sights 112-39 tourist information 94-111 travel tofrom 174-5 travel within 175-9 walking tours 140 143 141
S Sabaudia 190 Sabbioneta 293 Sacile 402 417-18 Saepinum 630-1 sailing 207 812 861 saints 915 see also individual saints Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci (Chamber
of the Council of 10) 356 salami 594 Salentine Peninsula see Penisola
Salentina Salerno 689-92 689 Salina 783-4 Saline di Trapani 824-5 Salograve 309 Saluzzo 236-8 San Benedetto Po 293 San Carlo Borromeo 298
San Costantino Albanese 741-2 San Daniele del Friuli 402 422-3 San Domino 704 San Francesco di Paola 745 San Fruttuoso 205-6 San Gimignano 544-7 545 San Giorgio 398 San Giorgio Maggiore 365-6 San Giovanni 129-30 San Giovanni in Fiore 748 San Giovanni Rotondo 703 San Marino 473-4 473 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 San Martino in Pensilis 633 San Michele 366 San Nicola 704 San Pantaleo 824 862-3 San Paolo Albanese 741-2 San Pietro in Cariano 397 San Polo 360-1 San Remo 217-19 218 San Siro stadium 276 San Terenzo 214 Sansepolcro 558 Santa Caterina di Pittinuri 852 Santa Caterina di Siena 540 Santa Cecilia 131 Santa Cristina 337-8 Santa Croce 360-1 Santa Margherita 206-7 Santa Maria di Leuca 728 Santa Maria Navarrese 870 Santa Severina 749 Santa Teresa di Gallura 860-1 SantrsquoAgata sui due Golfi 680 SantrsquoAmbrogio di Valpolicella 398 SantrsquoAntioco 847-8 SantrsquoArcangelo 742 Santo Stefano drsquoAveto 208 Santuario della Madonna del Terzito
783 Santuario di San Michele 703 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri 851 Sardinia 184 833-70 834 Sarnano 618 Sarnico 306 Sarto Andrea del 56 Sarzana 214 Sassari 857-9 858 sassi 733 735-6 737 Sauris di Sopra 424 Saviano Roberto 67 68 Savona 215-16 Savonarola Girolamo 42 Scala Santa 129
Signorelli Luca 56 Sila National Park 85 silk 299 303 Sinis Peninsula 851-2 Sirmione 307 308-9 Sistine Chapel 135-6 skiing see also cross-country skiing
Abruzzo 625 Alta Badia 339 340 Aosta 249
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Bormio 336 Breuil-Cervinia 255-6 Camigliatello Silano 748 Campitello Matese 625 631 Campo di Giove 625 Campo Felice 625 Campo Imperatore 625 Cermis ski area 327 Champoluc 256 Cogne 254 Courmayeur 252 Dolomites 314 798 itinerary 32 Lecco 306 Lorica 748 Madonna di Campiglio 322 324-5 Merano 334-5 Milky Way 234 Molise 625 Ovindoli 625 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Passo della Stelvio 336 Pescasseroli 625 Pescocostanzo 625 Piano Battaglia 775 Plan de Corones 341 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 Sella Ronda 329 Stresa 296 Tarvisio 423 Val di Fassa 328 Val di Solda 336 Val Gardena 337 Valle drsquoAosta 247 Valtournenche 256
Spello 586-7 Sperlonga 190 Spilimbergo 418 Spoleto 590-3 591 Spoleto Festival see Festival dei Due
Mondi Spormaggiore 322 sport 71-2 squares see piazza St Benedict 189 St Catherine of Siena 119 St Francis of Assisi 580 582 583 584 St Michael the Archangel 702-3 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 St Peterrsquos Square 132 St Ubaldo 588 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232 Star Wars 659 Steinbeck John 682 Stelvio National Park 85 335-7 Stintino 860 stone towers 851 Strada del Vino Costa degli Etruschi 531 Stradivari Antonio 289 Strait of Messina bridge 789 strawberries 336 Strawberry Festival 336 Stresa 295-7 296 Stromboli 785-6 Studi di Scultura Carlo Nicoli 520 Stupor Mundi see Frederick I
tickets 276 Teatro Greco 791 Teatro La Fenice 357 378 Teatro Olimpico 390 Teatro Rossini 610-11 Teatro San Carlo 70 647 telephone services 884-5 television 62 Tellaro 214 Tempietto 131 163 Tempio di Antas 846 Tempio Malatestiano 470 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Caracalla 130 Terme di Diocleziano 128 Termini 126-9 Termoli 632-3 Terranova di Pollino 742 Tharros 851 The Last Supper 86 265 theatre 71 theft 878 theme parks 471 Theodosius I the Great 39 thermal springs
Colli Eugane 386 Preacute-St-Didier 253 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Rabbi 327 Terme di Saturnia 553 Terme Merano 334
Thomes 867 Tiberius 38 time 885 910 Tintoretto 57 367 tipping 883 Tirolo 335 Tiscali 868 Titian 57 118 Tivoli 181-2 Tizzano Val Parma 457 Todi 578-80 Tolmezzo 424 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes 867 Tomba di Giulietta (Julietrsquos Tomb) 393 Tommaso Filippo 58 Torbole 310-11
Torcello 367 Torgiano 575-6 Torino see Turin Torre Annunziata 86 Torre Branca 265 Torre Civica 237 Torre drsquoArnolfo 486 Torre degli Asinelli 431 Torre del Porticciolo 857 Torre delle Milizie 116 Torre dellrsquoElefante 838 Torre dellrsquoOrologio 357 Torre di Mariano II 849 Torre di San Pancrazio 838 Torre Pendente 523 161 Torre Porta a Terra 854 Torre Troyana o DellrsquoOrologio 244 Tortoligrave 870 Tortora 745 Toula Glacier 252 Tour du Mont Blanc 253 tourist information 885-6 tours
U Uccello Paolo 57 Udine 418-22 420 Uffizi 487-90 491 Ultra Trail Tour du Mont Blanc 252 Umbria 560-99 564 Umbria Jazz 570 Under the Tuscan Sun 558 underground tours 317 649
IND
EX
V
IND
EX
942 I N D E X ( U - W )
Urbino 606-9 607 Ururi 633 Ustica 774 UTMB 252
vaccinations 903 Val Badia 339-41 Val drsquoAveto 208 Val di Fassa 328-9 Val di Fiemme 327 Val di Genova 325 Val di Gressoney 256-8 Val di Magra 214 Val di Non 326 Val di Rabbi 326-7 Val di Solda 336 Val di Sole 326 Val Gardena 337-8 Val Grande National Park 85 Val Martello 336-7 Val Pusteria 341-2 Valcamonica rock drawings 86 Valentinian 39 Valle drsquoAosta 192 194 245-58 246 Valle drsquoAyas 256-8 Valle dei Templi 820 Valle di Chisone 234 Valle di Susa 234 Vallee Blanche 252 Valley of the Temples 820 Vallunga 337 Valnerina the 594-5 Valpolicella 397-8 Valsesia 256-8 802 Valtellina 285 Valtournenche 255-6 Vaneze di Monte 319 vaporetto travel 380-1 Varallo 256 257 Varenna 306 Vasari Giorgio 55 57 Vasograven 319 Vasto 629 Vatican City 131-6 Vatican Museums 133-6 Velia 693 Veneto the 343-400 346 Venice 345-81 348-9 352-3
accommodation 370-3 cafes 375
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
children travel with 369 discount cards 351 drinking 376-7 entertainment 377-8 festivals 369 food 373-6 history 345-7 itineraries 347 shopping 378 379 sights 350-67 tourist information 350 travel tofrom 378-80 travel within 380-1
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Venosa 738-9 Ventimiglia 219-20 Ventotene 190-1 Verbania 298 Vercelli 245 Verdi Giuseppe 457 Verdi Country 456-7 Vernazza 209 Verona 392-7 394 Veronese Paolo 57 Versace Gianni 304 Vespasian 38 Vesuvio National Park 85 Vezio 306 Via Appia Antica 136-9 Via Ferrata delle Bocchette 322 Vibo Valentia 755 Vicenza 388-92 389 vie cave 554 vie ferrate 322 341 Vieste 701-2 701 Villa Adriana 181 Villa Balbianello 304 Villa Borghese 125-6 Villa Capra 390-1 Villa Carlotta 305 Villa Cipressi 306 Villa drsquoEste 181-2 Villa Floridiana 647 Villa Foscari 381 Villa Foscarini Rossi 382 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Kunkler 386 Villa Manin 422 Villa Maseacuter 392 Villa Monastero 306 Villa Pisani Nazionale 381-2 Villa Quintili 138 villa rentals 874-5 Villa Romana del Casale 818
Villa Rufolo 688 Villa Valmarana lsquoai Nanirsquo 390 Villa Welsperg 327 Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari 381 Villasimius 844 vineyards 442
Aosta 249 Barolo 240-1 Greve in Chianti 534 La Morra 240 Valpolicella 398
violins 289 Virgil 66 visas 887-8 see also passports Visconti family 43 Viterbo 184-7 185 Vittoriale degli Italiani il 310 volcanoes 82
waterfalls 311 616 water sports 72 weather 20 876-7 websites see internet resources weights 872 see inside front cover whale-watching 201 Whitaker Joseph 824-5 white-water rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
wildlife 81-4 see also individual animals amp plants
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
Signorelli Luca 56 Sila National Park 85 silk 299 303 Sinis Peninsula 851-2 Sirmione 307 308-9 Sistine Chapel 135-6 skiing see also cross-country skiing
Abruzzo 625 Alta Badia 339 340 Aosta 249
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
Bormio 336 Breuil-Cervinia 255-6 Camigliatello Silano 748 Campitello Matese 625 631 Campo di Giove 625 Campo Felice 625 Campo Imperatore 625 Cermis ski area 327 Champoluc 256 Cogne 254 Courmayeur 252 Dolomites 314 798 itinerary 32 Lecco 306 Lorica 748 Madonna di Campiglio 322 324-5 Merano 334-5 Milky Way 234 Molise 625 Ovindoli 625 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Passo della Stelvio 336 Pescasseroli 625 Pescocostanzo 625 Piano Battaglia 775 Plan de Corones 341 San Martino di Castrozza 327-8 Sella Ronda 329 Stresa 296 Tarvisio 423 Val di Fassa 328 Val di Solda 336 Val Gardena 337 Valle drsquoAosta 247 Valtournenche 256
Spello 586-7 Sperlonga 190 Spilimbergo 418 Spoleto 590-3 591 Spoleto Festival see Festival dei Due
Mondi Spormaggiore 322 sport 71-2 squares see piazza St Benedict 189 St Catherine of Siena 119 St Francis of Assisi 580 582 583 584 St Michael the Archangel 702-3 St Peterrsquos Basilica 132-3 157 St Peterrsquos Square 132 St Ubaldo 588 Stadio Olimpico di Torino 232 Star Wars 659 Steinbeck John 682 Stelvio National Park 85 335-7 Stintino 860 stone towers 851 Strada del Vino Costa degli Etruschi 531 Stradivari Antonio 289 Strait of Messina bridge 789 strawberries 336 Strawberry Festival 336 Stresa 295-7 296 Stromboli 785-6 Studi di Scultura Carlo Nicoli 520 Stupor Mundi see Frederick I
tickets 276 Teatro Greco 791 Teatro La Fenice 357 378 Teatro Olimpico 390 Teatro Rossini 610-11 Teatro San Carlo 70 647 telephone services 884-5 television 62 Tellaro 214 Tempietto 131 163 Tempio di Antas 846 Tempio Malatestiano 470 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Caracalla 130 Terme di Diocleziano 128 Termini 126-9 Termoli 632-3 Terranova di Pollino 742 Tharros 851 The Last Supper 86 265 theatre 71 theft 878 theme parks 471 Theodosius I the Great 39 thermal springs
Colli Eugane 386 Preacute-St-Didier 253 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Rabbi 327 Terme di Saturnia 553 Terme Merano 334
Thomes 867 Tiberius 38 time 885 910 Tintoretto 57 367 tipping 883 Tirolo 335 Tiscali 868 Titian 57 118 Tivoli 181-2 Tizzano Val Parma 457 Todi 578-80 Tolmezzo 424 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes 867 Tomba di Giulietta (Julietrsquos Tomb) 393 Tommaso Filippo 58 Torbole 310-11
Torcello 367 Torgiano 575-6 Torino see Turin Torre Annunziata 86 Torre Branca 265 Torre Civica 237 Torre drsquoArnolfo 486 Torre degli Asinelli 431 Torre del Porticciolo 857 Torre delle Milizie 116 Torre dellrsquoElefante 838 Torre dellrsquoOrologio 357 Torre di Mariano II 849 Torre di San Pancrazio 838 Torre Pendente 523 161 Torre Porta a Terra 854 Torre Troyana o DellrsquoOrologio 244 Tortoligrave 870 Tortora 745 Toula Glacier 252 Tour du Mont Blanc 253 tourist information 885-6 tours
U Uccello Paolo 57 Udine 418-22 420 Uffizi 487-90 491 Ultra Trail Tour du Mont Blanc 252 Umbria 560-99 564 Umbria Jazz 570 Under the Tuscan Sun 558 underground tours 317 649
IND
EX
V
IND
EX
942 I N D E X ( U - W )
Urbino 606-9 607 Ururi 633 Ustica 774 UTMB 252
vaccinations 903 Val Badia 339-41 Val drsquoAveto 208 Val di Fassa 328-9 Val di Fiemme 327 Val di Genova 325 Val di Gressoney 256-8 Val di Magra 214 Val di Non 326 Val di Rabbi 326-7 Val di Solda 336 Val di Sole 326 Val Gardena 337-8 Val Grande National Park 85 Val Martello 336-7 Val Pusteria 341-2 Valcamonica rock drawings 86 Valentinian 39 Valle drsquoAosta 192 194 245-58 246 Valle drsquoAyas 256-8 Valle dei Templi 820 Valle di Chisone 234 Valle di Susa 234 Vallee Blanche 252 Valley of the Temples 820 Vallunga 337 Valnerina the 594-5 Valpolicella 397-8 Valsesia 256-8 802 Valtellina 285 Valtournenche 255-6 Vaneze di Monte 319 vaporetto travel 380-1 Varallo 256 257 Varenna 306 Vasari Giorgio 55 57 Vasograven 319 Vasto 629 Vatican City 131-6 Vatican Museums 133-6 Velia 693 Veneto the 343-400 346 Venice 345-81 348-9 352-3
accommodation 370-3 cafes 375
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
children travel with 369 discount cards 351 drinking 376-7 entertainment 377-8 festivals 369 food 373-6 history 345-7 itineraries 347 shopping 378 379 sights 350-67 tourist information 350 travel tofrom 378-80 travel within 380-1
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Venosa 738-9 Ventimiglia 219-20 Ventotene 190-1 Verbania 298 Vercelli 245 Verdi Giuseppe 457 Verdi Country 456-7 Vernazza 209 Verona 392-7 394 Veronese Paolo 57 Versace Gianni 304 Vespasian 38 Vesuvio National Park 85 Vezio 306 Via Appia Antica 136-9 Via Ferrata delle Bocchette 322 Vibo Valentia 755 Vicenza 388-92 389 vie cave 554 vie ferrate 322 341 Vieste 701-2 701 Villa Adriana 181 Villa Balbianello 304 Villa Borghese 125-6 Villa Capra 390-1 Villa Carlotta 305 Villa Cipressi 306 Villa drsquoEste 181-2 Villa Floridiana 647 Villa Foscari 381 Villa Foscarini Rossi 382 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Kunkler 386 Villa Manin 422 Villa Maseacuter 392 Villa Monastero 306 Villa Pisani Nazionale 381-2 Villa Quintili 138 villa rentals 874-5 Villa Romana del Casale 818
Villa Rufolo 688 Villa Valmarana lsquoai Nanirsquo 390 Villa Welsperg 327 Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari 381 Villasimius 844 vineyards 442
Aosta 249 Barolo 240-1 Greve in Chianti 534 La Morra 240 Valpolicella 398
violins 289 Virgil 66 visas 887-8 see also passports Visconti family 43 Viterbo 184-7 185 Vittoriale degli Italiani il 310 volcanoes 82
waterfalls 311 616 water sports 72 weather 20 876-7 websites see internet resources weights 872 see inside front cover whale-watching 201 Whitaker Joseph 824-5 white-water rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
wildlife 81-4 see also individual animals amp plants
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
tickets 276 Teatro Greco 791 Teatro La Fenice 357 378 Teatro Olimpico 390 Teatro Rossini 610-11 Teatro San Carlo 70 647 telephone services 884-5 television 62 Tellaro 214 Tempietto 131 163 Tempio di Antas 846 Tempio Malatestiano 470 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Caracalla 130 Terme di Diocleziano 128 Termini 126-9 Termoli 632-3 Terranova di Pollino 742 Tharros 851 The Last Supper 86 265 theatre 71 theft 878 theme parks 471 Theodosius I the Great 39 thermal springs
Colli Eugane 386 Preacute-St-Didier 253 Terme dei Papi 187 Terme di Rabbi 327 Terme di Saturnia 553 Terme Merano 334
Thomes 867 Tiberius 38 time 885 910 Tintoretto 57 367 tipping 883 Tirolo 335 Tiscali 868 Titian 57 118 Tivoli 181-2 Tizzano Val Parma 457 Todi 578-80 Tolmezzo 424 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes 867 Tomba di Giulietta (Julietrsquos Tomb) 393 Tommaso Filippo 58 Torbole 310-11
Torcello 367 Torgiano 575-6 Torino see Turin Torre Annunziata 86 Torre Branca 265 Torre Civica 237 Torre drsquoArnolfo 486 Torre degli Asinelli 431 Torre del Porticciolo 857 Torre delle Milizie 116 Torre dellrsquoElefante 838 Torre dellrsquoOrologio 357 Torre di Mariano II 849 Torre di San Pancrazio 838 Torre Pendente 523 161 Torre Porta a Terra 854 Torre Troyana o DellrsquoOrologio 244 Tortoligrave 870 Tortora 745 Toula Glacier 252 Tour du Mont Blanc 253 tourist information 885-6 tours
U Uccello Paolo 57 Udine 418-22 420 Uffizi 487-90 491 Ultra Trail Tour du Mont Blanc 252 Umbria 560-99 564 Umbria Jazz 570 Under the Tuscan Sun 558 underground tours 317 649
IND
EX
V
IND
EX
942 I N D E X ( U - W )
Urbino 606-9 607 Ururi 633 Ustica 774 UTMB 252
vaccinations 903 Val Badia 339-41 Val drsquoAveto 208 Val di Fassa 328-9 Val di Fiemme 327 Val di Genova 325 Val di Gressoney 256-8 Val di Magra 214 Val di Non 326 Val di Rabbi 326-7 Val di Solda 336 Val di Sole 326 Val Gardena 337-8 Val Grande National Park 85 Val Martello 336-7 Val Pusteria 341-2 Valcamonica rock drawings 86 Valentinian 39 Valle drsquoAosta 192 194 245-58 246 Valle drsquoAyas 256-8 Valle dei Templi 820 Valle di Chisone 234 Valle di Susa 234 Vallee Blanche 252 Valley of the Temples 820 Vallunga 337 Valnerina the 594-5 Valpolicella 397-8 Valsesia 256-8 802 Valtellina 285 Valtournenche 255-6 Vaneze di Monte 319 vaporetto travel 380-1 Varallo 256 257 Varenna 306 Vasari Giorgio 55 57 Vasograven 319 Vasto 629 Vatican City 131-6 Vatican Museums 133-6 Velia 693 Veneto the 343-400 346 Venice 345-81 348-9 352-3
accommodation 370-3 cafes 375
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
children travel with 369 discount cards 351 drinking 376-7 entertainment 377-8 festivals 369 food 373-6 history 345-7 itineraries 347 shopping 378 379 sights 350-67 tourist information 350 travel tofrom 378-80 travel within 380-1
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Venosa 738-9 Ventimiglia 219-20 Ventotene 190-1 Verbania 298 Vercelli 245 Verdi Giuseppe 457 Verdi Country 456-7 Vernazza 209 Verona 392-7 394 Veronese Paolo 57 Versace Gianni 304 Vespasian 38 Vesuvio National Park 85 Vezio 306 Via Appia Antica 136-9 Via Ferrata delle Bocchette 322 Vibo Valentia 755 Vicenza 388-92 389 vie cave 554 vie ferrate 322 341 Vieste 701-2 701 Villa Adriana 181 Villa Balbianello 304 Villa Borghese 125-6 Villa Capra 390-1 Villa Carlotta 305 Villa Cipressi 306 Villa drsquoEste 181-2 Villa Floridiana 647 Villa Foscari 381 Villa Foscarini Rossi 382 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Kunkler 386 Villa Manin 422 Villa Maseacuter 392 Villa Monastero 306 Villa Pisani Nazionale 381-2 Villa Quintili 138 villa rentals 874-5 Villa Romana del Casale 818
Villa Rufolo 688 Villa Valmarana lsquoai Nanirsquo 390 Villa Welsperg 327 Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari 381 Villasimius 844 vineyards 442
Aosta 249 Barolo 240-1 Greve in Chianti 534 La Morra 240 Valpolicella 398
violins 289 Virgil 66 visas 887-8 see also passports Visconti family 43 Viterbo 184-7 185 Vittoriale degli Italiani il 310 volcanoes 82
waterfalls 311 616 water sports 72 weather 20 876-7 websites see internet resources weights 872 see inside front cover whale-watching 201 Whitaker Joseph 824-5 white-water rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
wildlife 81-4 see also individual animals amp plants
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
vaccinations 903 Val Badia 339-41 Val drsquoAveto 208 Val di Fassa 328-9 Val di Fiemme 327 Val di Genova 325 Val di Gressoney 256-8 Val di Magra 214 Val di Non 326 Val di Rabbi 326-7 Val di Solda 336 Val di Sole 326 Val Gardena 337-8 Val Grande National Park 85 Val Martello 336-7 Val Pusteria 341-2 Valcamonica rock drawings 86 Valentinian 39 Valle drsquoAosta 192 194 245-58 246 Valle drsquoAyas 256-8 Valle dei Templi 820 Valle di Chisone 234 Valle di Susa 234 Vallee Blanche 252 Valley of the Temples 820 Vallunga 337 Valnerina the 594-5 Valpolicella 397-8 Valsesia 256-8 802 Valtellina 285 Valtournenche 255-6 Vaneze di Monte 319 vaporetto travel 380-1 Varallo 256 257 Varenna 306 Vasari Giorgio 55 57 Vasograven 319 Vasto 629 Vatican City 131-6 Vatican Museums 133-6 Velia 693 Veneto the 343-400 346 Venice 345-81 348-9 352-3
accommodation 370-3 cafes 375
000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages
children travel with 369 discount cards 351 drinking 376-7 entertainment 377-8 festivals 369 food 373-6 history 345-7 itineraries 347 shopping 378 379 sights 350-67 tourist information 350 travel tofrom 378-80 travel within 380-1
Venice International Film Festival 26 369
Venosa 738-9 Ventimiglia 219-20 Ventotene 190-1 Verbania 298 Vercelli 245 Verdi Giuseppe 457 Verdi Country 456-7 Vernazza 209 Verona 392-7 394 Veronese Paolo 57 Versace Gianni 304 Vespasian 38 Vesuvio National Park 85 Vezio 306 Via Appia Antica 136-9 Via Ferrata delle Bocchette 322 Vibo Valentia 755 Vicenza 388-92 389 vie cave 554 vie ferrate 322 341 Vieste 701-2 701 Villa Adriana 181 Villa Balbianello 304 Villa Borghese 125-6 Villa Capra 390-1 Villa Carlotta 305 Villa Cipressi 306 Villa drsquoEste 181-2 Villa Floridiana 647 Villa Foscari 381 Villa Foscarini Rossi 382 Villa Jovis 663 Villa Kunkler 386 Villa Manin 422 Villa Maseacuter 392 Villa Monastero 306 Villa Pisani Nazionale 381-2 Villa Quintili 138 villa rentals 874-5 Villa Romana del Casale 818
Villa Rufolo 688 Villa Valmarana lsquoai Nanirsquo 390 Villa Welsperg 327 Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari 381 Villasimius 844 vineyards 442
Aosta 249 Barolo 240-1 Greve in Chianti 534 La Morra 240 Valpolicella 398
violins 289 Virgil 66 visas 887-8 see also passports Visconti family 43 Viterbo 184-7 185 Vittoriale degli Italiani il 310 volcanoes 82
waterfalls 311 616 water sports 72 weather 20 876-7 websites see internet resources weights 872 see inside front cover whale-watching 201 Whitaker Joseph 824-5 white-water rafting 32
Val di Sole 326 Valsesia 257 802 Varallo 257
wildlife 81-4 see also individual animals amp plants
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
wine-tasting Aosta 249 Greve in Chianti 534 Lago Trasimeno 577
Radda in Chianti 536 San Gimignano 545 Soave 398 tours 239 534 Valpolicella 397
women travellers 888 905 Wonder of the World 41-2 work 888-9 World Heritage sites 86
Alberobello 713-14 Castel del Monte 708 Cerveteri 182-3 Cinque Terre 208-11 itineraries 31 Modena Cathedral 446 Noto 814 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850-1 Paestum 691-2 11
Palazzo Reale 659 Piazza del Duomo (Catania) 795 Pienza 551 Pompeii 674-5 Repubblica di San Marino 473 San Marino 473-4 sassi 735-8 Urbino 606-7 Valley of the Temples 820
WWI 44-5 WWII 46
Y yoga 878
Z Zanipolo 363-4 zoos 297 626
IND
EX
GR
EEN
DEX
944
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
GreenDex It seems like everyonersquos going lsquogreenrsquo these days but how can you know which businesses are actually ecofriendly and which are simply jumping on the ecosustainable bandwagon
The following attractions tours bars shops festivals courses restaurants and accommodation choices have all been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism While many restaurants in Italy serve seasonal locally sourced produce wersquove highlighted those that chose to go the extra mile and are accredited by the Slow Food movement (see p22) Wersquove also highlighted farmersrsquo markets and the local producers themselves In addition wersquove covered accommodation that we deem to be environmentally friendly for example for their commitment to recycling or energy conservation Attractions are listed because theyrsquore involved in conservation or environmental education have been given an ecological award or are World Heritagendashlisted by Unesco
For more tips about travelling sustainably in Italy turn to p21 We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content If you think wersquove omitted someone
who should be listed here or if you disagree with our choices contact us at wwwlonelyplanet comcontact and set us straight for next time For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet see wwwlonelyplanetcomresponsibletravel
ABRUZZO accommodation
Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio 629 BampB Case Bonomini 623 BampB La Sosta 626
food Osteria La Lumaca 628
shopping Fabbrica Confetti Pelino 623
sights amp activites Centro Ippico Vallecupa 626 Parco Nazionale drsquoAbruzzo Lazio e
Molise 626 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e
Monti della Laga 620 Parco Nazionale della Majella
624 Museo dellrsquoArte Confettiera 623 Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
629 tours
Ecotur 626
ALTO ADIGE accommodation
Vigilius Mountain Resort 335 food
Forsterbraumlu 335 Hopfen amp Co 333 Ristorante Concordia 338
shopping Bolzano produce market 331
sights amp activites Forst Brewery 334 Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
sights amp activities La Sila 748 Parco Nazionale del Pollino 741 Parco Nazionale della Calabria
748 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAspromonte
750 Valli Cupe 748
CAMPANIA accommodation
Agriturismo Le Tore 680 Agriturismo Monte Brusara 688 Agriturismo San Carlo 693 Hotel Celeste 669
food In Bufalito 679 La Stanza del Gusto 652 Mondo Bio 679 Osteria Nunzia 660 President 676
shopping Carthusia I Profumi di Capri 666 Kiphy 654 Limoncello Capri 666 Mani Design 654
sights amp activities Amalfi Coast 681 Certosa di San Lorenzo 694 Herculaneum 670
G R E E N D E X 945
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
Lago drsquoAverno 659 Naples Centro Storico 639 Oasi Naturalistica di Persano 693 Paestum ruins 691 Palazzo Reale 647 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo
di Diano 693 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 673 Pompeii ruins 674 Velia 693
EMILIA-ROMAGNA accommodation
Agriturismo La Curbastra 468 Studentrsquos Hostel Estense 462
courses La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 432
food Antica Osteria del Teatro 459 Osteria Deuml Boumlrg 472
shopping Bologna produce market 436 Ferrara covered market 463 Mercato delle Erbe 436 Modena produce market 449 Ravenna covered market 467 Reggio Emilia produce
market 452 Rimini covered market 472
sights amp activities Parco del Delta del Po 463 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAppennino
Tosco-Emiliano 452 tours
ModenaTur 446
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA accommodation
Agriturismo del Friuli Venezia Giulia 421
Agriturismo Gelindo dei Magredi 418
festivals Festa delle Erbe di Primavera
424 food
Gorizia food market 414 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Trattoria Blanch 414
sights amp activities Laghi di Fusine 423 Riserva Naturale della Foci dello
Stella 416 Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal
Nuovo 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 416
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dellrsquoIsonzo 416
tours Vacanze in Mountain Bike
423
LE MARCHE accommodation
La Quercia della Memoria 617 Locanda della Valle Nuova
609 food
Il Molo 605 sights amp activities
Parco del Conero 605 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
616
LIGURIA food
Trattoria dei Pescatori 207 Vicolo Intherno 213
shopping Salone dellrsquoAgroalimentare Ligure
216 sights amp activities
Cinque Terre 208 Parco di Montemarcello-Magra
214 Parco Naturale Regionale
dellrsquoAveto 208 Parco Naturale Regionale di
Portofino 207
LOMBARDY amp THE LAKES accommodation
Hotel Ariston 272 Piccolo Hotel Olina 294 Vietnamonamour 272
sights amp activities Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine
310 Riserva Naturale Lago di Piano
305 tours
Mantua local boat owners 292
MOLISE sights amp activities
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane 632
Riserva Collemeluccio 632
PIEDMONT festivals
Astirsquos truffle fair 244 Delle Sagre 243 Douja drsquoOr 243
food Eataly 227 Grom 230 Guido Restaurante 242 LrsquoOstu dij Baloss 238 Locanda da Peiu 236 Osteria del Boccondivino 243 Osteria della Chiocciola 236 Pasticceria Barbero 240 Piazza Duomo-La Piola 239 Porta Palazzo 230 Slow Food 243 Universitagrave di Scienze
Gastrono miche 242 shopping
Bottega dei Quattro Vini 242 Pastificio Defilippis 232
sights amp activities Agriturismo Piemonte 220 LrsquoInsieme 240 Parco Naturale dei Laghi di
Avigliana 235 Parco Nazionale della Val Grande 220 Slow Food headquarters 242
tours Mauro Veglio 240
PUGLIA accommodation
Il Frantoio 717 La Chiusa delle More 698 Le Campine Eco-Resort 726 Palazzo Papaleo 727
food Trattoria Pantagruele 720
shopping Cooperativa Agricola Sololio 717 La Bottega del Corso 726 Olio Claudio 726
sights amp activities Alberobello 713 Cantina del Locorotondo 715 Castel del Monte 708 Parco Nazionale del Gargano 696
GR
EEND
EX
G
REE
ND
EX
946 G R E E N D E X
ROME amp LAZIO accommodation
Beehive 148 courses
Roman Kitchen 140 food
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
Antica Locanda le Ginestre 182 Armando al Pantheon 152 Campo dersquo Fiori 165 Matricianella 153 Osteria dellrsquoAngelo 156 Palatium 154 Piazza San Cosimato Market 165 Piazza Testaccio 165 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 165 Ristorante Enoteca La Torre 186 Ristorante Tre Re 186 Tram Tram 155 Trattoria la Sirena del Lago 188 Via del Lavatore 165
shopping Ai Monasteri 174 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella 174 sights amp activities
Cerveteri 182 Parco Nazionale del Circeo 190 Rome Centro Storico 118 Tarquinia necropolis 183 Villa Adriana 181 Villa drsquoEste 181
SARDINIA accommodation
Agriturismo Guthiddai 866 Agriturismo LrsquoOasi del Cervo 848 Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu 868 Agriturismo Su Pranu 851 BampB Lu Pastruccialeddu 863 Bio Agriturismo Bainas 853 Corte Fiorita 853 Hotel Lucrezia 852 Hotel Monte Maccione 866 Locanda Il Rifugio 869
sights amp activities Atlantikagrave 867 Coddu Ecchju 863 Cooperativa Goloritzegrave 869 Cooperative Ghivine 867 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 865 Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 857 Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu 857 Nuraghe di Albucciu 863 Nuraghe di Palmavera 857 Nuraghe Losa 852
Nuraghe Santa Cristina 852 Nuraghe Santu Antine 859 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 850 Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei
e del Gennargentu 865 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoArcipelago di
La Maddalena 861 Parco Nazionale dellrsquoAsinara 860 Santuario Santa Vittoria di Serri
851 Serra Orrios 867 Tiscali 868 Tomba dei Giganti SrsquoEna e Thomes
867 tours
Cooperativa Gorropu 867 Sella e Mosca 857
SICILY accommodation
Petit Hotel 777 shopping
Catania food market 795 Cantine Florio 824 La Pescheria 795 Syracuse produce market 813
sights amp activities Parco Naturale Regionale delle
Madonie 774 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi 807 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 829 Riserva Naturale di Stagnone 824 Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa 822
TRENTINO accommodation
Agritur Fior di Bosco 326 festivals
Polenta Festival 320 food
Al Penny 324 El Paeacutel 329
sights amp activities Centro Visitatori Spormaggiore 323 Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta 322 Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di
San Martino 327 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Trentingrana 326
TUSCANY accommodation
Agrifuturismo 535 Agriturismo San Lorenzo 549 Fattoria di Rignana 535
food Osteria La BotteGaia 514 Ristorante Fiorentino 558 Trattoria Cibregraveo 504 Trattoria Mario 503
shopping Arezzo produce market 557 Consorzio Agrario Siena 543 Cortona market 559 Mercato Centrale (Florence) 505 Mercato di SantrsquoAmbrogio 505 San Gimignano produce market
546 Siena Wednesday market 543
sights amp activities Apuane Alps 519 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi 557 Parco Regionale della Maremma
552
UMBRIA accommodation
Alla Madonna del Piatto 585 Fattoria Il Poggio 577 Torre Colombaia 571
festivals Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
594 food
Al Mangiar Bene 571 Il Gufo 572 Ristorante Vespasia 595 Taverna del Lupo 590
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983
copy Lonely Planet 2010
copy photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Venice Campo San Barnaba Olimpio Fantuz SIME4Corners Images Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images lonelyplanetimagescom
All rights reserved No part of this publication may be copied stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means electronic mechanical recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of review and no part of this publication may be sold or hired without the written permission of the publisher
Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries
Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments such as retailers restaurants or hotels Please let us know of any misuses lonelyplanetcomip
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and to the maximum extent permitted disclaim all liability arising from its use
copy Lonely Planet
lonelyplanetcomAlmost too much information
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) buy books brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge downloadguides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape hearts find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes boots sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
XTH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993
USA $2599UK pound1599
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Highway rescue 116
Directory assistance 12
International directory enquiries 176
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYoursquore welcome PregoYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusipermesso
HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget orderFor details of map symbols see the Map Legend on the last page of this book telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availableW wi-fi availables swimming poolapt apartmentd double rooms
dm dorm bedsf family roomsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple roomstw twin rooms
EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (euro) unless otherwise stated For current exchange rates see wwwxecom1 euro (euro) = 100 cents
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where appropriate) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
LONELY PLANET INDEX1L petrol (gas) euro106-120
1L bottled water euro050-1
Slice of pizza euro150-3
Peroni beer euro250-4
Souvenir T-shirt euro10-15
For additional price information see Getting Started
BUSINESS HOURSBanks 830am-130pm amp 330-430pm Mon-Fri
Restaurants noon-3pm amp 730-midnight (kitchen usually closes earlier as early as 10pm in some places)
Shops 9am-1pm amp 330-730pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat
Exceptions are noted in specific listings
PHRASESHello BuongiornoGoodbye ArrivederciHelloGoodbye (informal) CiaoPlease Per favoreThank you GrazieYesNo SigraveNoExcuse me Mi scusi
Sleeping prices in this book are full price (with a price range for low to high season where applicable) and include bathroom unless otherwise mentioned Eating prices are for a meal comprising primo secondo and dessert (drinks not included) Exceptions are noted in specific listings
TELEPHONETo dial listings in this book from outside Italy dial your international access code Italyrsquos country code then the number (including the lsquo0rsquo)Italy country code 39
International access code 00
Ambulance 118
CarabinieriPolice 112113
Fire 115
Directory assistance 12
QUICK REFERENCE SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
9TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published Sep 1993