Lipatick ppt (2)))))

LIPSTICKS

- Anay N. Kacharia- Pooja Mohanty

What Are

Lipsticks ?

Historical Facts Mesopotamian women were the first to decorate their lips

Abulcasis was the inventor of solid lipsticks

The Lipstick Revolution started in the 16th century

EnglandFranceAmericaIndia

Consumer expectations

Colour Appearance Uniformity of colour Shelf life

Amount of Pigmentation on First wear

Presence of any Smudgy feel

Lasting Power

Wether or not lipstick Glides on Easily

Ingredients in Lipsticks Colouring materials- Ingredient Amount in %

Staining dyes (Bromo Acids)

0.5 - 3

Oil Soluble Pigments 2

Insoluble Pigments 8 - 10

Titanium Dioxide 1 - 4

Staining dyes-

Eosin Dyes -

Pigments – (For intensity and Variation of colour)

Titanium dioxide –• Helps in obtaining Pink shades• Gives opacity• Very high Degree of Brightness

Base – A) Solid waxes-(Such as) 1) Beeswax 2) Ozokerite 3) Carnauba 4) Candelilla B) Softening agents (Such as) 1) Modified Lanolins 2) Cocoa Butter

Liquid components-

1) Castor Oil (Most Widely Used) 2) Mineral Oil (Gives Gloss (1-5%) ) 3) Butyl Stearate 4) Oleyl Alcohol 5) Propylene Glycol 6) Isopropyl Myristate(Increases lip gloss) 7) Silicone fluids(Particularly Dimethyl silicone)

Other Ingredients Includes- Perfumes-(Generally light sophisticated type with an Essential Oil) Preservatives- (Paraben Family)

Antioxidants-(BHA ,BHT, Propyl Gallate)

UV Filters- (Benzophenone)

Manufacture of lipsticks5 Major Operations:-

• Colour Grinding• Melting and mixing • Moulding• Flaming• Packaging

Types of lipsticks

Pearlescent lipstick• Pearlescent pigments

possess optical effects that serve decorative purposes.

• Titanium dioxide flakes are not single crystals but polycrystalline and slightly porous.

• Packed with Vitamin E and Castor Oils for continuous moisture.

FormulationSOLUTION FORMULA CONTENT PERCENTAGE

A OZOKERITE 3.00

CANDELILLA WAX 9.00

YELLOW CARNAUBA WAX 3.00

BEESWAX 2.00

GLYCERYL DILAURATE 5.00

C12 C15 ALCOHOL LACTATE 5.00

ISOSTEARYL NEOPENTANOATE 12.00

CASTOR OIL 26.00

LANOLIN 9.20

MINERAL OIL 5.00

OCTYL DIMETHYL PABA 0.15

ANTIOXIDANT 0.05

SOLUTION FORMULA CONTENTS PERCENTAGEB D&C ORANGE NO. 5 ZIRCONIUM LAKE 2.25

OCTYLDODECYL STREARAYL STEARATE 5.25C F D&C BLUE NO. 1 Al LAKE IN CASTOR OIL 0.80D MICA AND TITANIUM DIOXIDE 10.00E FRAGRANCE 0.30

BrandsBRAND REVLON AMWAY

MAJOR INGREDIENT

Trioctyldodecyl Citrate,Polybutene, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate,Bis Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate 2,Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C) Serica Poudre de Soie (Silk Powder), SILICA

Capric, octyl methoxy cinnamate, octyl triisotearyl citrate, benzophenone-3, PVP/ hexadecene copolymer, shea butter, almond oil, jajoba oil,

COST Rs 525 Rs 259

STAYING POWER

6-7 HRS `4-5 HRS

Lipstick for Hot Countries• Enriched with Botanical

extracts.

• Hydrates and protects lips for hours

• Color pigments contain:I) Symphytum Officinale

(Comfrey) II)Sambucus Nigra SeedIII)Plantago Ovata Seed

FormulationSOLUTION FORMULA CONTENTS PERCENATGE

A OZOKERITE 12.00

HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL

12.00

HYDROGENATED COCONUT OIL

13.00

CETYL RICINOLEATE 2.50

GLYCERYL ABIETATE 2.50

ANTIOXIDANT (BHA) 0.50

B CASTOR OIL 35.00

C PIGMENTS AND PERFUMES q.s.

Pigments used…

• Mica• Iron oxide (CI

77491,77492,77499)• Titanium dioxide (CI

77891)• Bismuth oxychloride (CI

77163)• Red 6 lake (CI 15850)

• Red 27 lake (CI 45410)• Red 33 lake (CI 17200)• Yellow 6 lake (CI 15985)• Blue 1 lake (CI 42090)• Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140)• Carmine (CI 75470)• Red 7 lake (CI 15850)

BrandsBRAND LAKME 9 TO 5 NYX

MAJOR INGREDIENT

Trioctyldodecylcitrate,Ethylhexyl palmitate,Octyldodecylpentanotetraisostearate,Caprylic/capric triglyceride,C10-30 cholesterol/ lanosterol esters,B15- diglycerylc polyadipate-2,Calcium sodim bromosilicate,paraffin

Diisostearyl Malate,Polyglyceryl -2 Triisostearate,Isostearyl Isostearate, Bis-Digylceryl Polyacyladipade-2,Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyethylene, octyldodeanol, Polyisobutene,Ethylhexyl Palmitate,Ceresin,

COST Rs 375 Rs 209

STAYING POWER

8-9 HRS `6-7 HRS

High Gloss Lipstick• Gives lips a glossy

luster and sometimes subtle color.

• Distributed as a liquid or solid.

• Can be translucent, or various shades of opacity.

FormulationCONTENT PERCENTAGE CONTENT PERCENTAGE

LANOLIN OIL 12.48 OLEYL ALCOHOL 32.63

C10-C30 ESTERS 7.39 CASTOR OIL 20.57

PARAFFIN WAX 2.11 C18-C36 ACID TRIGLYCERIDE

9.51

C18-C36 ACID GLYCOL ESTER

6.34 BHA 0.05

PERFUME 1.00 D&C RED NO. 21 0.22

TITANIUM DIOXIDE 2.85 BROWN IRON OXIDE

0.61

D&C RED NO. 6 (BARIUM LAKE)

1.21 PEARL AGENTS 3.03

Pigments used

• CI 77019 (Mica), • CI 77891 (Titanium

Dioxide), • CI 77491/77492/77499

(Iron Oxides), • CI 771663 (Bismuth

Oxychloride), • CI 75470 (Carmine), • CI 77742 (Manganese

Violet),

• CI 45380 (Red 21/Red 21 Lake/Red 22 Lake),

• CI 73360 (Red 30), • CI 16035 (Red 40 Lake), • CI 19140 (Yellow 5 Lake),• CI 15985 (Yellow 6 Lake).• CI 42090 (Blue 1 Lake), • CI 15850 (Red 6/Red 6

Lake/Red 7/Red 7 Lake), • CI 77947 (Zinc Oxide),

BrandsBRAND L’OREAL SEPHORA

MAJOR INGREDIENT

sesame seed oil, oleyl erucate, disteardimonium hectorite, tocopheryl acetate rosa canina fruit oil,calcium aluminum borosilicate,silica, argan oil, geraniol,hexyl cinnamal, hydroxycitronellal, calcium sodium borosilicate, synthetic fluorphlogopite, methyl-2 octynoate, polyethylene terephthalate, polymethyl methacrylate

Glyceryl Caprylate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Tocopherol,Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Isocetyl Stearate, Diisostearyl Malate, Polybutene

COST Rs 690 Rs 569

STAYING POWER

7-8 HRS `5-6 HRS

Transparent Lipstick

• The inventor is Debra Digirlamo

• It uses soluble or soluble or Solublized dyes

• It uses suitable solvents like monoalkylolamide of mixed fatty acids or dipropylene glycol methyl ether.

• Provides a natural and a sophisticated finish

Content Percent

Polyamide Resin(average MW 800) 20

Polyamide Reisin(average MW 600-700) 5

Propylene Glycol Monolaurate 28

Castor Oil 12.6

Eosin 0.3

Dipropylene glycol methyl ether 8

Ethoxylated lanolin ether 10

Content PercentEthoxylated Lanolin alcohols(5 moles EO)

10.1

Anhydrous Isopropanol 5Perfume 1

Liquid lipstick's

• These lipsticks provide more permanent films

•‘Smarting’ is an issue that occurs on application of these types of lipsticks.

Brand Chambor CP Trendies Key Ingredients

Polybutene, Mineral oil,Shea Butter, Octyl dodecanol,Triclosan,Emulsifying wax, Hexadecene co –polymer,Candelila wax, BHT, Propyl Paraben ,Vit A palmitate,Vit E Acetate, Bees wax, Microfine titanium dioxide, Silica, cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl Mono Stearate, Octyl dimethyl PABA, Beta Sitosterol, Oxynex ST liquid . Micro crystalline wax .Perfume

polybutene ,lanolin,isopropyl palmitate,castoroil , stearalkonium hectorite, silica ,propylene carbonate ,aloe barbadensis leaf extract .mineral oil ,coconut oil, tocopheryl acetate ,wheat germ glycerides , almond oil ,propylparaben , allantoin,BHT,fragrance.titanium dioxide , Bismuth oxychloride,Allantoin

Cost Rs 350/- Rs 1200/-

Evaluation of finished products

• Color control• Determination of melting point• Softening point• Microbial testing (IS: 9875:1990)• Rancidity (IS: 10284:1982)• Rupture test• Breaking load test ( IS 9875:1990)

Defects in lipsticks

• Problems with Ingredients

• Moulding related problems

Formulation related problems

• Sweating: caused due to high oil content or in ferior oil binding

• Bleeding: separation of colored liquids from waxy base

• Blooming: due to higher %age of cetyl alcohol• Streaking: expected to be caused due to

titanium dioxide

Moulding related problems

• Laddering: lipstick does not look smooth or homogeneous

• Deformation: noticeable in softer formulae• Cratering: shows up flaming when stick

develops dimples• Mushy Failure: caused due to granularity of

carnauba wax

Deformation occurring when coring takes place on side of the mould

LADDERING DEFORMATION CRATERING MUSHY FAILURE

Hidden Problems with Ingredients

References:-• Cosmetic technology by Sanju Nanda

• Harry’s Cosmeticology

•Wikipedia

THANK YOU…