Lightroom Workflow for Windows - capcitycameraclub.com

Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic v.10 Workflow for Windows By Jim Lamb at [email protected] (I am not a real expert.)

‣ Any words in italics are found on the Lightroom screen, or on the keyboard. [ ] means type your stuff in this format.‣ ►▼ are Disclosure (or “flippy”) triangles to hide/disclose more information. ‣ “HDD” is Hard Disk Drive,“ “SSD” is Solid State Drive. “ \ ” (backslash) is a folder name follows.‣ These procedures and techniques are not fixed; they are just a recommended starting point for a print photographer. ‣ You may use Lightroom Classic (LrC) as a 1 week trial, if you let it expire, it still works, except the Develop and Map

modules. ‣ The Library’s Quick Develop and right-click to Edit in… still work for editing.

‣ My catalog and photos are both on my internal 1TB SSD, in the Pictures/Lightroom folder. ‣ Lightroom (LrC) setup is on page 14 of this document. If just installing LrC, go there now before opening.

My Typical Lightroom Workflow (Set my monitor to the calibrated brightness in the Display preference, or number of function * taps.) 1. Import using my Metadata preset & delete the obvious. (No Develop presets.) 2. Color Label (blue) the photos in a sequence (brackets & panos). 3. Quickly view the photos, applying stars to the usables. X for Rejects. May use Quick Develop.

(1✭ for info/signs, 2✭ for okay, 3✭ for might show, 4✭ is a good one, 5✭ is a wall hanger.) 4. Delete Rejects. Edit star rated photos in the Develop module+plug-ins. Assign Keywords & Picks. 5. Create a Collection of the Picks, Survey (N) or Compare out (Unpick) duplicate subjects. 6. Output the Collection to Books, Slideshow, Print, Website (Flickr), or Export to social media.

Library Module: (Alt+Ctrl+1, G for Grid mode, E or Spacebar for Loupe mode) •Organizing: (My techniques: I use a chronological naming system that keeps all files in date order on any computer. I use multiple keywords to describe the photo, not just one subfolder name. I have an Image Control Log that lists photographic events I’ve shot at, and when I transferred the photos.) • Photos should be kept in a parent folder [Lightroom Photos-Mine] under the [Pictures] folder. • Your [Lightroom Catalog-Mine] folder should also be under your [Pictures] folder. • I recommend you keep only one catalog for all of your personal photos. Any other catalog would be for

projects that are no longer in needed, such as weddings or assignments for someone else.. • You may also install the Lightroom app on a laptop (Adobe says two active copies are permitted) and work

with the same photos, collections, keywords etc. in one catalog. • If you use an external HDD/SSD for photos & catalog, use a unique folder name, such as [xPictures]. • A second external HDD/SSD could be used for backups, including catalogs. • If you have a TB+ SSD internal drive, use it for both the catalog and photos. For a trip, create a catalog on

your laptop and File menu > Import from Another Catalog… to your desktop. • Under that [Lightroom Photos-Mine] is [yyyy] (4 digit year) folders, then subfolders [mm] or [mm-text] (2

digit month {e.g. October}, 2020 > 10). Files are [yyyy-mm-###] or [yyyy-mm-text-###]. (See page 14.) • e.g. 2020-10-001.dng for January’s first photo, or 2020-10-Zoo-001.dng for a shoot. • LrC Import has a Destination choice to import (via Move for this time) into a By Date folder system.

Select the Date Format of yyyy/mm (/ = subfolder next), so 01 would be under 2020. • (My photos folder is Lightroom Photos 2000, that’s the year I went digital.) • Lightroom has to manage photos using a catalog. Drag & drop only in Lightroom, not in the operating

system (OS)=Finder or File Explorer, or other apps/programs such as Adobe Bridge. • I recommend converting proprietary raw photos to the Adobe .DNG file format during import (≈20%

smaller), although it will take longer to import. I recommend the Adobe Photography Plan, at $10/mo. • Lightroom is a new cloud based product and is different from the Lightroom Classic desktop version.

As of October 27, 2020 7:39 PM. Page 1

• First Import: • Launch Lightroom Classic. (Holding the Alt {PC: control} key while launching for Select Catalog.) • If creating from a past structure, use Move, Rename, and By Date into a Pictures/[Lightroom Photos] folder. • Insert a memory card in your card reader; or, if you don’t have !Show import dialog when a memory card is

detected set in Preferences, select File menu > Import Photos from Disk (Shift+ Ctrl +I). ‣ (macOS: open Image Capture, under Device select the card, click the triangle in the lower left, change

Connecting this camera opens: to Applications>Lightroom folder>Lightroom Classic.app. Close.) • You should not transfer photos directly from a camera. If the battery dies, you may corrupt the card. • If your new photos do not appear in the Import screen, click Import in the lower left. • You may import from multiple cards, if you have the slots, by going down the left panel and selecting the

photo folders under DCIM folder from each card (Ctrl +click), and !Include Subfolders above. • To hide un-needed folders above a folder, double-click the desired folder, Lock Folder..

• Another way is to create a watched folder, File> Auto Import> Auto Import Settings. Instead of the detect memory card method, just transfer your photos into that (desktop) folder, and LrC will find them.

• Source> Devices: click on the camera name, ! Eject after import. • Source>Files: ! Include Subfolders or the folder under DCIM. • Copy as DNG. (DNGs are ≈20%+ smaller than raw (.NEF/.CR2 etc.), lossless, universal, and include

metadata, including XMP, so no sidecar .XMP files. DNG conversion checks for file corruption. • See Setup section, page 14. (JPEGs stay JPEG.)

• Another choice is Copy but remain in the manufacturer’s original format (.NEF/.CR2 etc.). • Move (and add) and Add (and don’t move) are for photos already on your desired drive (not on a card). • Click the arrow → before TO, and select a location as the Other Destination, New Folder [Pictures/

Lightroom Photos-Mine], Choose (or, go down to the Destination sub-panel). • (I did use an [xPictures] folder on a portable external HDD with a USB-C port, now an internal SSD.)

• File Handling: (You may right-click on a panel header and select Solo Mode to collapse other panels.) • Build Previews: Embedded & Sidecar (Standard and 1:1 are slower importing, faster zooming). • □ Build Smart Previews, check if a source drive might be removed from your working computer.

• You may later change Previews under the Library menu. Sidecar previews may convert to Standard. • ! Don’t re-import suspected duplicates. (To split a card for multiple folders, Shift-click to group, ☐.) • ! Make a Second Copy To: ▼and select a different HDD/SSD, New Folder [LrC Second Copy].

• File Renaming: ! Rename Files> Template: click the ⬍.Select [yyyy-mm-###] orifnone,Edit:• Filename Template Editor. Press Delete to delete blue tokens in the box under Example:.

• Additional, click the⬍, Date (yyyy), type - , Date (mm), Custom Text, type -, Numbering>Sequence # (001) get [yyyy-mm-text-###]. Repeat for a second template without custom text [yyyy-mm-###].

• Click Preset: ⬍, Save Current Settings as New Preset…, type: [yyyy-mm-###] Create, Done. • If you use Shoot Name or Custom Text:, type a [description]. • Close the Filename Template Editor, Done. • Only Shoot Name is available in the compact Import mode ▼.

• By Start Number: type “1”, or the next known #. (Recheck Sample: format below.) • Apply During Import: leave None. • Metadata: Once you create a preset for your personal metadata (i.e. copyright), select it.

• IPTC Copyright, type (“©” Mac: Alt+G, PC: Num Keypad Alt+0169) [© 2020, First M. Last]. • Check Copyrighted. Rights Usage Terms: type All Rights Reserved. • Add other info. (Creator, Country, E-mail address) • Change Custom to Save as new preset. [My Metadata Preset] Done. • Type (or delete) any Keyword(s) applicable to all importing photos. (Good habit to start.) • Delay keywords if saving an Import Preset.

• Destination> ◻ Into Subfolder: (There is a control to Show Photos in Subfolders under the Library menu.) As of October 27, 2020 7:39 PM. Page 2

• Organize: By Date, Date Format: yyyy/mm (e.g. 2020/04). See image, page 14. • You should see a proposed gray, italicized, new folder with a + on the icon.

• In the Import screen, uncheck any obviously bad photos from the Preview. • Use the Thumbnails slider, lower right, or “=“ “-“ to adjust the size.

• With your import settings ready for the first time, go below the middle window, left of Cancel and click on Import Preset: then Save Current Settings as a New Preset.

• Give it a name [My Import Preset]. Create. On future imports, start with this preset. • Look the settings over and uncheck photos that are obvious losers.

• Adjust slide size with the Thumbnails slider (lower right). • If you saved/updated the preset, go back and add Keywords.

• Click Import. When done (Tink! if a sound preference), Okay. • Remove the card, but do not format/erase it until you see at least two copies of the photo files. • Format a memory card only in your camera, to get the proper organization.

• You may also transfer you new photos by dragging them into the Library or Import Content Area. • You may import your Aperture or Photo app photos by going to the File menu > Plug-in Manager. • You may import an Elements catalog with the File menu > Import a Photoshop Elements Catalog. • If you import raw+jpeg, and want to separate them, in the Library, use the Filter Bar, them move a format. • You will be switched to the Library module with the newly imported photos in a grid mode.

• Notice, below the Export button is your view. It now should be Previous Import. Click to change views. • You may customize how the slides display by going to the View menu > View Alts (Ctrl +J). • In Grid View, I prefer Expanded and Index # & Filename on top, with Dimensions & Capture Date.) • In Loupe View, I changed the top Loupe Info line to Common Photo Settings. Check all. Close. • G for Grid. Adjust the slide size with the Thumbnails slider (lower right).

• In the Library & Develop modules, click the flippy triangle on the end of the Tool Bar to add tool icons. • If a photo was edited outside LrC, a conflict warning will appear Import… accepts the data from the file.

Overwrite… accepts data from the LrC catalog. says the metadata in the file is newer than in Lightroom. • In the Develop Module, create a preset to apply develop settings, select it. (Unless you like your lenses’

faults, apply the Lens Corrections on import.). Go to Preferences>Presets>Master: Adobe Default, then ! Use Defaults…, select Camera:, Default: Camera Settings (if available), !, User Presets, select, Update.

• Future Imports: • In Lightroom’s Library, note the latest sequence number in the current month, or refer to your log, or drill

down the folders structure in the left panel on the Import sub-module (if applicable). • With everything set and an Import Preset created, you normally just insert the memory card, select the your

Import Preset at the bottom, update the next sequence number (or 1 if a new folder), check the italic location for correctness, (add a shoot or custom text if used,) hit Import, go for coffee.

• Sorting: • In the Library module, either stay in Previous Import, or All Photographs under the Tool Bar, or click that

text to see favorites and recent views, or select the new folder under Folders in the left panel. • Start in Grid view with G. (Double-click a photo, or E/Spacebar/Return for Loupe view.) • If an explanation mark [!] appears in the bottom right of the center window, click on it and accept the process

update for All Photos in Filmstrip. • If a [?] appears in the Folders panel on the left, right-click on the highest folder, Find Missing Folder, use

the Finder window view to locate the folder. You may drag-and-drop to organize in your Folders panel. • Identify the good from the bad with attributes, such as stars, colors labels, picks or collections: • To delete/Trash photo(s) in a folder or collection without a prompt, press Shift+Alt+Ctrl+Delete. • To remove photo(s) from the catalog, press Alt+Delete. Press just Delete for a dialog for delete/remove.


• For Color Labels, go to Metadata>Set Color Labels>Edit. I use: Red (6) is “HDR,” Yellow (7) is “Other Owner,” Green (8) is “Current”, Blue (9) is “Sequence”, and Purple is “Special.” Name the preset. Change.

• For bracketed, panorama, or focus stacking shots, select the sequence, click in the Color Label boxes, or right-click, Set Color Label > I use “Sequence” (9). (To ease finding sequences, in a folder, Photo menu>Stacking>Auto-Stack by Capture Time. Try ≈3 seconds. Stack. Then go back to Photo>Stacking > and Expand All Stacks. Dark gray thumbnails and faint bars appear at the beginning and end of each thumbnail sequence in the grid.)

• To avoid groups from stretching your library, select Photos >Stacking> Group into Stack (Ctrl +G). Get || at both sides of thumbnail. To select other than the first to represent the stack, Photo >Stacking>Move to Top of Stack (Shift+S). Select the stack, Photo>Stacking>Collapse Stack (S).

• Double-clicking on the stack number, expands the stack and highlights all, or Expand Stack (S). • To apply Auto Tone or other edit to the non-bracketed/non-sequence photos:

• Select Library Filter: >Attribute. Alt-click the Blue Color Label (meaning not-blue). • Under Quick Develop, click Auto by Tone Control. • Click the Blue Color Label again for No Filters.

• When an HDR output is created, I change the Blue Color Label to Red (6). Add keyword “HDR.” • (Labels are now readable by Adobe Bridge, etc. as XMP. Duplicate label names in Bridge to match.)

• You might assign Stars to your photos, by pressing 1 thru 5, 0 to un-star (or, do during Develop.) • To sort with filters, either go down and right in the Grid mode, below the Thumbnails slider (on/off

switch to the far right), or Library Filter bar panel above the grid window (⬍ by lock). • Stars may be used to select photos that are worth editing. In Grid mode, select Attribute on the Library

Filter bar. Then click the first star for One Star and Higher. Now get really picky: • This is where you might jump to the Develop Module (D) to edit, then come back with (G) to Library.

• Press P for Pick (white flag), X for Reject (black flag), U for Un-flag, then ! for the next photo. • To select and immediately advance, select Photo>Auto Advance, use Caps Lock, or hold Shift.

• When X’s (rejects) are complete, go to the Photo menu>Delete Rejected Photos… (Ctrl +Delete). • To display only the picks, ignoring the un-flagged, go up to the Library Filter: bar and select Attribute, then

the white(ish) flag. Later, to Return back to no filters, choose No Filter. • Select all picks (Ctrl +A, or click the first photo, then Shift-click the last photo), then click the “+” by

Collections (Ctrl +N), Create Collection, type a name (! Include selected photos…), Create. • To select a Collection to place photos, right-click it, select Set as Target Collection. A “+” appears. • Select photos and press the B key to place a link to the photo there. You may select all photos before

selecting a target collection, too. • If no collection is selected, B places photos in a Quick Collection in the Catalog panel. You may also

create a Smart Collection with search criteria. • Open the new collection. If you want to clear flags, select all, then U to un-flag all. • Click on the losing competitors and press B to Remove from Collection. • To Color Label a collection, right-click>Add Color Label to Collection. (v8.4+) • Surveys have shown that viewers tend to give up after about 25 photos, so keep that in mind.

• Select competing photos in Grid View, press N for Survey (a Number of photos), or C for Compare. • Shift+tab to hide all panels. (F5) hides the top panel, (F6) bottom, (F7) left, (F8) right panel. • Press L for Lights out mode in two levels. Repeat these to Return to normal panels view.

• For Survey, starting with the worst, click the " on the lower right of the image to reject from Survey. • For Compare, if the left (Select) one isn’t better, click the X#Y box, replacing the candidate with the

next, or X⇄Y to Swap photos. For more images, press !. • Done. Press G to go back to Grid and repeat for other groups. • Press Ctrl +D to deselect highlighted photos.


• Other Library Features: • For HDR and/or Panoramas, select the sequence and right-click for Photo Merge in…

• HDR ({Shift+}control+H). (Adding Shift bypasses the dialog, using the last settings.) • Select Auto Align & Auto Settings, a De-ghost Amount, Show Deghost Overlay, no Create Stack. • “-HDR” is added to filename. Exposure goes from ±4 to ±10. File size is additive.

• Panorama ([Shift+}control+M). Select a Projection, Fill Edges (or Boundary Wrap), and Auto Settings. • Projection: Start with Spherical, especially with wide angle lenses. Perspective for architectural. • Fill in empty space with Boundary Warp until distortion, then Fill Edges, or Crop. Merge.

• For Merge to HDR Panorama, batch select all the brackets in the sequence. Merge. • Use the Histogram (Ctrl +0), and Quick Develop (Ctrl +1) sub-panel for adjustments.

• Use Saved Preset to access LrC and user presets. ▼for Crop Ratio and Treatment (Color or B&W). • Try White Balance presets or jump to the White Balance Selector Tool in Develop, press W. • To temporarily change Clarity & Vibrance to Sharpness & Saturation sliders, hold the Alt key. • To Return the photo to its original condition, click Reset All, or Ctrl +Z to undo each adjustment. • To jump to the next slider on a sub-panel, press “.”, or, to step back, press “,”. • To toggle back to the original photo’s view, press “ \” (Backslash key below Delete). • To change the Original/Before view, right click on a History state in the left panel, and select Copy

History Step Settings to Before. (The number of History States is unlimited.) • To save a copy of the present version of a photo as a Snapshot (above History), press Ctrl +N.

• Use Keywording to collect subjects, places, events, etc. Separate multiple keywords with a comma. • Right-click a keyword to Edit Keyword Tag for synonyms. Save. • Select all photos for a keyword, either click on a keyword in the Keywording or Keyword List panels

(holding the Alt key reveals keypad numbers in the Keyword Set sub-panel), click to the left of the flippy triangle in Keyword List, or grab the paint can on the lower Tool Bar (T), and with Keywords selected, type the keyword, then click or drag on photos.

• When done, click Done, or press Esc. • Use Renaming in the Library module (if not accomplished above):

• Select View > Sort > Capture Time. • Select photos. (Click first, then Shift+click last, or multiple Ctrl+clicks, or Ctrl +A for all.) • Select Library > Rename Photos... (F2). • Select a format such as [yyyy-mm-###] or [yyyy-mm-text-###]. Type a [1] for sequence. Even if “001”

or other number already exists. • After recently imported photos have been culled and renamed, you might go to the Import page and enter

the next sequence number in the File Renaming > Start Number box. Cancel. • For Comparing two or more photos, go to the next page under the Develop Module. • Use Export to transfer copies of photos out of Lightroom: (or, Export as Catalog)

• Click File > Export (Shift+ Ctrl +E), then try a Preset, or make your selections, and presets. Export. • There now is a lossy .DNG choice for export file format. It is 1/3rd the lossless size and good.

• To export to an external editor (Photoshop), go to Photo > Edit In > Adobe Photoshop... (Ctrl +E). • After Save in that editor, a TIFF copy will appear in Lightroom with “-edit” added.

• Use Published Services to sync with online photo sharing sites, such as Flickr. (Facebook is n/a.) • On the site’s bar, click Setup. Fill out the wizard. • More extensions are available, such as SmugMug on the Find More Services Online. • Select photos and drag them to the [Photostream] bar below ▼.

• (I color label my synced photos purple before publishing them. That warns me not to delete them later.) • In the new window, click Publish up on the right, and wait while the progress shows up on the left.

• For finding duplicates, search for a plug-in, such as the free Teekesselchen at https://exchange.adobe.com/creativecloud.details.2652.teekesselchen.html.


https://exchange.adobe.com/creativecloud.details.2652.teekesselchen.html

https://exchange.adobe.com/creativecloud.details.2652.teekesselchen.html

Develop Module: (D, Alt+ Ctrl +2) (one-time reading below.) ‣ When desired, press G to go back to the Library Grid mode. Shift+tab to hide panels. F for Full Screen.‣ “Fix before you enhance.” That is likely White Balance and Exposure. WB & Tone have an Auto button. ‣ Set the appearance size desired with Navigator’s Fit, Fill, 1:1, 2:1 (user changeable - click on arrows). ‣ You should have Lens Corrections automatically applied by Preferences. If not, go to sub-panel & !. ‣ Before altering a photo, and especially if you might want different versions of the same photo, create a

“Virtual Copy,” which doesn’t add significant file size or more photos, just instructions, click Ctrl +’ (apostrophe). The copies have a dog-ear corner in the bottom left.

‣ To apply the same adjustments to other photos, click Copy at the bottom of the left panel, uncheck or check the applicable adjustments, Copy. In the Filmstrip, Ctrl +click on the other photos, then click Paste (Shift+ Ctrl +V), or Settings > Paste Settings from Previous (Alt+ Ctrl +V) .

‣ For one-at-a-time copying, click Previous on the right panel, after selecting each new photo.‣ Another way is to Ctrl +click on other photos on the Filmstrip, click Sync (it becomes Auto Sync), then

make adjustments on the “most selected” photo, and the other selected photos will get the same treatment. When done, Ctrl +click on Auto Sync.

‣ Each adjustment is captured in the History panel, Ctrl +Z to undo the last; or to Return to a previous state, place the cursor over its state to see the preview, click. (The History States are unlimited.)

‣ To save a state of adjustments for a particular version of the photo, right-click on the History state, and select Create Snapshot. Type a descriptive name. Create.

‣ By default, none of your edits are applied to the photo file (only to the catalog) when you leave Lightroom, unless the “Automatically write changes into XMP” catalog preference is checked ￬will appear on un-saved! photos. Save text metadata into a non-raw photo file, or in a .XMP sidecar file for raw photos, by selecting any/all photos and pressing Ctrl +S. (This method is best for slow computers.)

‣ The Copy, Paste and Previous (adjustments) buttons save repeating adjustments. ‣ With multiple photos, Copy becomes Sync. Alt+Copy skips the checkboxes dialog. ‣ All actions in LrC are non-destructible (except file Delete), so play all you want in LrC. Ctrl +Z to undo. ‣ To edit a photo in Photoshop, press Ctrl +E. In Ps, to Return to LrC, press Ctrl +W, or Save. ‣ You may (remove or) rearrange the order of the right sub-panels by right-clicking. Requires relaunch. ‣ You may show more than one sub-panel in Solo mode, by Shift+clicking another sub-panel.

• Comparing using either the Library Module or Filmstrip: • You may view and Survey a Number of highlighted photos by pressing N. • You may Compare two highlighted photos by pressing C. • You may view Before and After and edit by toggling the backslash key “\” (above Enter). • You may view side-bY-side Before and After by pressing Y. • Another tool is Reference View (Shift+R) where the selected photo goes on the right. Drag a reference

photo from the Filmstrip to the left where it may stick ("). Now adjust photos to look like a match. • Histogram (Ctrl +0): (From a JPEG)

• Left to right is the amount of information (pixels) captured in the range of shadows to highlights. • The five sections left to right are| Blacks | Shadows | Exposure | Highlights | Whites.

• Tone sliders below correspond to these. • Clicking either the Shadow or Highlight triangle above causes clipped areas to be painted (both-J).

• Pixel counts climbing a wall suggest clipping, meaning a loss of detail in the shadows or highlights.. • You may make sectional adjustments by dragging left/right in the sections of the histogram.


Cropping and Local Adjustments.: • Shortcuts: Crop Overlay=R, Spot Removal=Q, Red Eye Correction=n/a, Graduated Filter=M, Radial

Filter=Shift+M, and Adjustment Brush=K. • These six tools may be interlaced with the workflow done in panels below, especially the last two tools. • Click the Crop Overlay Tool (R) for the Crop & Straighten Toolbox. • To reshape the photos click the lock (") to the unlocked position (#) then adjust any side. • To keep a preset aspect ratio, set the lock to the locked position, and click Original.

• Select, or create, a ratio. (X changes orientation 90°) • Grab an edge/corner of the photo & drag. (Esc or Edit> Undo, Ctrl +Z to clear.)

• To toggle the overlay grids, such as “Rule of Thirds”, press O. To hide, Shift+Ctrl+H. • To dim, or hide the un-cropped area, press L (2-steps). Hide panels with Shift+tab. • Click+drag the photo to place the desired portion in the cropped area (not shaded).

• The Photoshop way is to drag out the crop icon under Tool:, then drag a box. • Click the Straighten icon (level in compass) and drag it onto your photo, then click on the end of

something that is supposed to be level, and drag across that line. Double-click in the cropped photo (or Enter) to accept the adjustment. Click Reset in the sub-panel to try again.

• Or, place the cursor just outside a corner, and drag (counter)clockwise. • Or, use the Angle slider to straighten (not precise).

• Press R / Enter / double-click inside crop to accept changes, and close the crop tool, or Done. • To cancel, Alt+ Ctrl +R or click Reset on the sub-panel.

• Spot Removal Tool (Q) (zoom in to 100% to 200% with Ctrl + =, out Ctrl + - ). • To scan for possible dust spots, select 1:1, which will place a navigation box in the preview window.

Look at that portion of the photo, then fix with the Spots Removal Tool (see below), then keep pressing Page Down for a column scan top to bottom, left to right.

• Click the Spots Removal Tool (male symbol), below the Histogram. • Clone applies a sample nearby, & is good when a mismatched area is adjacent to the spot. • Heal matches texture & lighting of a sample nearby, and is generally better for dust spots. • You may Clone first, then improve with Heal (Shift+Q). • Use the bracket ( [ ] ) keys to Size the brush. For a spot, make the brush just slightly larger. • Adjust Opacity for strength of the effect. (100 is no transparency.) • Click the target, a thin, problem area/ “spot” circle, and a thick, “sample” circle appears near.

• Press, or hold, H to hide/reveal the circles. The selected circle is the thick one. • Drag the spot circle to the target, drag edges to resize. • Drag the sample circle to a source area. • Click on the selected circle (+) to set the effect. (You may correct later.) • Undo by clicking circle while holding Delete. Reset button for all. N to close the tool. • To apply dust spot fixes to a sequence of photos with the same orientation, click Copy, Check None,

select Check None, ! Spot Removal, Copy. Next select the photos on the Filmstrip & click Paste. • Red (Pet) Eye Correction Tool (no shortcut), zoom in (Ctrl + = by Delete, out Ctrl+ - ).

• Click the Red Eye Correction Tool, below the Histogram. (Shift+T to swap modes.) • Click & hold on the eye center. This creates a target bracket. • Drag to adjust the target size and include about double the pupil size • Release the mouse button to apply, then use the Pupil Size and Darken sliders to adjust. • Repeat on other eyes. To move the photo, hold Spacebar while dragging the photo. • To remove the change, click the circle, and press Enter or Delete. Click Reset to start over. • When done, click on Close on the sub-panel, or on the Red Eye Correction Tool icon.

• The next three tools have a new feature, the Range Mask. After applying a filter it becomes active.


• Select Color or Luminance, grab the eyedropper (except Adjustment Brush), click on the treated area to mask out other colors/luminance. Hold Shift to pick up to four more points.

• Adjust the Amount to the right to increase the effect. Done. • Graduated Filter (M): (aka Gradient Filter)

• Click the Graduated Filter Tool, below the Histogram. • Make preliminary adjustments, or select a preset Effect:. • Click on or outside the frame & pull the shade across photo to the end point of the effect.

• Hold the Shift key to keep the shade level. • To reverse the gradient, inside to outside, hold the Alt key & drag outward.

• To invert a gradient that is active, press the apostrophe key ( ‘ ). • The pin (⌾) represents the middle of the filter, the leading line (✙) the end.

• Adjust the settings to get the desired effect. • Press Enter to accept the adjustment. Click New before each new adjustment. • Click on the pin (⌾) & press Delete to cancel the adjustment, or Reset, or Ctrl +Z.

• Radial Filter (Shift+M): • Click the Radial Filter Tool, below the Histogram. • Unlike the Gradient Filter, there is a Feather control near the bottom. • To apply the effects to the inside of the form, check Invert. • Make preliminary adjustments, or select a preset Effect:, by clicking the menu by Custom. • Click and drag to form an ellipse. Handles allow you to reform the shape.

• Hold the Alt key to anchor the center at the click • Hold the Shift key to form a circle. • Hold Alt+ Ctrl to duplicate a shape on click.

• Adjust the settings to get the desired effect. • Press Enter to accept the adjustment. Click New before each new adjustment. • Click on the pin (⌾) & press Delete to cancel the adjustment, or Reset, or Ctrl +Z.

• Adjustment Brush Tool (K) for selective areas: • Click the Adjustment Brush Tool, below the Histogram. New is already set. • Select an Effect in the pull-down menu, then try a preliminary setting (over-done now is OK.)

• To reset all sliders, double-click on Effect. • Adjust the characteristics of the Brush (of which there are 3 available - A, B, & Erase.)

• Tap the left bracket key ( [ ) to make the brush smaller, or the right bracket key ( ] ) for larger (or, use the scroll wheel, or, click and drag down & right).

• Feather is outer space of the brush that thins out opacity (thin ring.) • 0 is the hardest edge, 100 is the softest edge (most common).

• For Flow of 10%-90% & 100%, press 1-9 & 0. (Try 20% for soft skin, o/w 100%.) • ! Auto Mask (A) if you want help finding the defined edges of the area. • Density is a cap on the maximum adjustment.

• Make preliminary adjustments by dragging/painting over the desired area. • To paint in a straight line, hold the Shift key while painting.

• A black dot pin (⌾) will appear and Mask changes to Edit. (A gray pin is inactive.) • You may hover over the active pin and drag left and right like the slider.

• Press O to hide/show the mask overlay/cursor over the pin/ !Show selected mask overlay. • Press H to hide/show the pin(s). Change the behavior with View > Tool Overlay. • Press Shift+O to toggle through four mask colors.

• Paint with the Alt key to erase areas. Use the panel’s Reset to undo painting. • Adjust the settings to get the desired effect.

• You may need to desaturate vivid colors to get color changes.


• You may need to exaggerate exposure, temporarily, to see adjustments. • Press Enter to accept the adjustment. • To toggle the A and B brushes, press the forward slash key ( / ) by the right Shift key. • Click on the pin (⌾) & press Delete to cancel the adjustment, or Reset, or Ctrl +Z. • Click New (Enter) before each new adjustment. • The before/after toggle switch is at the bottom left of the sub-panel.

Global Adjustments • Basic: (Ctrl +1)

• Treatment has moved here for converting to Black & White. • You might create a virtual copy, by pressing Ctrl +’ (apostrophe). • To quick convert to grayscale, select B&W, or toggle V, then adjust as desired. Try presets.

• Profile has been added for preset versions by clicking the four box icon. • Probably, select Large, scan the profiles for a preview, clicking on the desired one. • Click the star for the favorites list. Right-click an open area for Manage Profiles, uncheck, Save. • All but Creative, apply to raw files only. These will override the camera profiles. • Adjust the Amount to the desired level. Close to go back.

• For more adjustments, go the external editor by right-clicking photo, and select Open in... • To reset a slider to its original position (e.g. 0), double-click on the name of the slider. • To reset a group of sliders, Alt+click the group title. • To keep only one panel open at a time, right-click a panel header, and select Solo Mode.

• White Balance/WB: • Auto white balance (Shift+ Ctrl +U). (Note the Temp & Tint changes.) • For presets use the pull down at As Shot (if non-JPEG). • The White Balance Selector Tool (W) may be clicked and dragged, then a second click on a neutral gray

pixel to auto-adjust white balance both Temp & Tint. (Look at Navigator Preview.) • Uncheck !Auto Dismiss in the lower left part of the Loupe frame, otherwise one click is Done.. • When done, either click Done on the Tool Bar, or drag the Selector Tool back.

• Adjust Temp for cool/warm correction, then Tint for green/magenta correction. • Use the Tone controls: Try Auto (Ctrl +U) after white balance.

• Start with the Whites and Blacks, adjust Exposure, then Highlights and Shadows. • The auto way is to hold the Shift key and double-click the Whites title, then repeat for Blacks. • The semi-auto way is to hold the Alt key and slide Whites and Blacks, until the display goes almost all

black for Whites or all white for Blacks. • By clicking on either the clipping triangles, if you get red (highlights) or blue (shadows) warnings in the

photo, or a colored highlight triangle (J), and those lost details are important, reduce Whites or Blacks or Contrast if both warnings.

• Press J again, or click the triangles to toggle off the clipping warnings. • Once the limits are adjusted, manually adjust Exposure to your liking (with a calibrated screen).

• Try holding the Alt key and slide Exposure right until only a few spots appear on the black mask. • If after adjusting Exposure, you have clipping or undesirable Highlights or Shadows, adjust those. • Avoid using the Contrast slider. The Tone Curve is a safer tool. • Some adjustments will require correcting previous adjustments. • To toggle from the adjusted photo to the original, press the Backslash “ \ “ key (under Delete). • Also you get a side-by-side view by pressing Y or a split-screen view by pressing Shift+Y (toggles).


• Presence: (Use selectively with Basic tools, too, except Vibrance.) • Texture is between Clarity and Sharpening (both global), affects only mid-size details and when positive,

it minimizes noise increases. Useful for skin, bark, and hair. When negative, it is good with skin smoothing and noise reduction. It may be used in large amounts without ill effects. Use at 100% zoom.

• Clarity, which boosts local contrast, zoom to 100%. When you see halos, back off. • Most detailed photos could use +25 to +50, more for architectural & landscapes. • Portraits or soft photos could be negative.

• Dehaze (previously in Effects) has algorithms that cut through soft/hazy scenes to make them pop. • Vibrance is preferred over Saturation. It targets low saturation tones and protects skin. • Saturation is an overall adjustment, and probably not your best tool. Use sparingly.

• The following sub-panels may be collapsed to one-at-a-time by right-clicking a header and selecting Solo Mode. You may turn off sub-panels affects by using the light switch on their left end.

• Customize Panel Order by right-clicking any Develop panel section and selecting Customize Develop Panel…, drag to your order, Save.

• Tone Curve (Ctrl +2) sub-panel after understanding the four Tone sliders: • To add medium (JPEGs), or strong, contrast (all formats), try the Point Curve menu presets below. • If you click the little Targeted Adjustment Tool (TAT), top left corner of the sub-panel, place the cursor

on a tonal region in the photo you want to adjust, then use the arrow keys to adjust the curve by 5s ↑↓ (1s if you hold Alt, 20s if you hold Shift), or click and drag the mouse up or down. Click Done.

• The three teardrop pointers below the curve window divide the Range into four areas starting with 25% each, but you may move them.

• If you click on the “curve,” a pin will appear, either drag or use the arrow keys to move ↑↓. • Start with the highlights in the upper right corner. Next, adjust the shadows in the lower left corner. • Adjust the most prevalent mid-tone (lights or darks). Finally, adjust other mid-tones. • To increase mid-tone contrast, click on the curve above the 3rd teardrop pointer, repeat above the 1st

teardrop pointer, then pull up the right pin slightly, then down on the left pin slightly: “S” curve. • To reset the curve, double-click on the word Region. • For the before-view, toggle the square switch down at the top-left of the panel (except Basic).

• HSL/Color (Ctrl +3) sub-panel is for adjusting colors for Hue, Saturation, & Luminance. Also, you may click on the flippy triangle, or click on one of the four titles.

• Hue alters a color, Saturation adjusts color intensity, and Luminance adjusts brightness. • Either use a slider, or better, click the little Targeted Adjustment Tool, top left corner of the sub-panel,

then place the cursor on a color in the photo you want to adjust, then use the arrow keys (by 5s), drag ↑↓, or use the mouse scroll wheel.

• Color Grading replaces Split Toning/ Instead of sliders, there are three color wheels, adding a mid-tone. • Drag around the wheels for Hues, outwards for Saturation. • Once you have the right color, hold the Shift key to hold it while adjusting saturation. • Once you have the right saturation, hold the Ctrl/Ctrl key to hold saturation while adjusting color. • Below each wheel is a Luminance slider. Each has an Eyeball for before/after previews. • Blending adjusts your preference towards shadows or highlights. • Balance adjusts overall saturation.

• Detail (Ctrl +5) sub-panel is for optimizing overall Sharpening Amount (use 100%), Luminance Noise Reduction, and Color Noise reduction (both: use 100% to 200%, and are for high ISOs).


• For Sharpening: (Avoid sharpening soft skin areas and low contrast photos. Use heavier Masking.) • A 100% zoom preview appear in the right sub-panel, but you may right-click the Preview for 200%.

• You may click the target tool icon at top-left of the sub-panel and cursor over the photo and see the little window shows a zoomed view.

• Click on the desired area (probably an eye, or other detailed subject). • Move the zoom window around in the Navigator preview.

• There are three Presets available in the left panel. Save your own settings by clicking +. • Amount adds overall edge definition. (Hold Alt key to see grayscale.)

• Default is 40. Landscapes around 40, and architecture may take about 45-75. Skin about 35. • Radius adjusts the sharpening distance, default is 1.0, start around 0.9, 1.4 for high MP photos, skin.

• Hold the Alt key, and increase until you see just the major edges without halos in grayscale. • Detail adjusts how much edges are emphasized. Use after Amount & Radius.

• Default is 25. Start at 35, 15 for skin • Detail processing is necessary for raw files. JPEG, PSD, TIFF should not require. • Hold the Alt key, increase until smooth areas start to crunch (and add noise if high ISO).

• Masking protects soft tones & adjusts how much detail is included in the target edges. Default is 0. • Hold the Alt key to see sharpening areas (white) & masking areas (black). • It is smart enough not to sharpen soft skin, but increasing helps the edges. Start at 50. • To switch back to the unsharpened preview, flip the switch on the Details header.

• For Noise Reduction: Zoom in very close (100%) and adjust Luminance & Color sliders. • Luminance may start about 5-20, but should not exceed 50. (Adjust after Shadows are set.) • Use the Detail slider to right of 50 to reduce the smoothness, preserving detail. • Use the Contrast slider sparingly to restore some micro-contrast. Best when Detail and ISO are low. • Color default is 25. Zoom to 300% or 400% and look for color bleeding. • Use the Detail slider to the right of 50 to reduce bleeding, but avoid speckles. • Use the Smoothness slider to the right of 50 to reduce mottling blobs mainly in the shadows.

• Lens Corrections (Ctrl +6) sub-panel adjusts for lens problems. • The Profile tab lets you select your lens for known corrections. ! both, and Setup to Auto.

• If your Make or Model is not available, search the internet for Lens Profiles and instructions. • Distortion corrects barrel and pincushion effects.

• Slide Vertical left to “correct” leaning high structures. • Manually Defringe a color.

• Lens Vignetting has sliders adjust darkness in the corners caused by lens/attachments. • These sliders are applied to the original frame, not to a cropped frame (see below).

• Transform (Ctrl +7) sub-panel correct the perspective of the photo. • Try any of the five auto adjustments to upright perspectives (leaning back buildings), starting with Auto. • Under Transform, manually adjust the photo. ! Constrain Crop.

• Effects (Ctrl+8) sub-panel for Post-Crop Vignetting, Grain creation. • Post-Crop Vignetting include three style choices.

• Highlight Priority enables highlight recovery, but may lead to color Shifts in shadows. • Color Priority minimizes color Shifts in dark areas, but does not do highlight recovery. • Paint Overlay mixes the cropped photo values with black or white pixels. • Amount: Negative values darken the corners of the photo.

• Positive values lighten the corners. • Midpoint: Lower values apply the Amount adjustment to a larger area away from the corners.


• Higher values restrict the adjustment to an area closer to the corners. • Roundness: Lower values make the vignette effect more oval.

• Higher values make the vignette effect more circular. • Feather: Lower values reduce softening between the vignette and the vignette’s surrounding pixels.

• Higher values increase the softening. • You may apply a Grain effect.

• Amount: Controls the amount of grain applied to the photo. • Drag to the right to increase the amount. Set to zero to disable grain.

• Size: Controls grain particle size. At sizes of 25 or greater, blue is added to make the effect look better with noise reduction.

• Roughness: Controls the regularity of the grain. • Drag to the left to make the grain more uniform; drag to the right to make the grain more uneven.

• Calibration (Ctrl +9) sub panel to show the Process Version (5) and known or manual lens errors. • You may adjust Shadows Tint, and color Hue and Saturation for Develop presets.

Other LrC Develop Methods: • If you see a lightning bolt symbol on photos in the Library, it means your old photo needs to be updated to

the latest Process Version (5 current). Select the batch, and click on the icon to update.

Map Module: (Alt+ Ctrl +3) • Select a Map Style down on the Tool Bar: Hybrid, Road Map, Terrain, or Satellite. • Alt+ drag a box around the desired area. • Manually geotag photos by selecting them on the filmstrip, and either dragging them to the location, or

clicking it. You may also right-click a location them select photos on the filmstrip.

Book Module: (Alt+ Ctrl +4) • Frequently save your Creation. • Select your photos or Collection. • Select an Auto Layout Preset, by clicking the double arrows, select fixed or random pages, number of photos

per page, then an arrangement in the scrolled window. Use Fit to keep your cropped photos original. • Preset: Save Current Settings as a New Preset. Name. Save. • Select Book Settings. Preview, Send Book to Blurb, or PDF.

Slideshow Module: (Alt+ Ctrl +5) • In the Library Module, you may run an impromptu Slideshow by selecting the photos and pressing Ctrl

+Enter. Quit with Esc. • Start with a Preset in the Template Browser in the left panel. • Adjust your Options in the right panel.


Print Module: (Alt+ Ctrl +6) • If more than the desired photo is highlighted, select Edit> Select None (Ctrl +D). • Click photo(s) on the Filmstrip (Shift+click or Ctrl +click for more). • Select a Template from Lightroom Templates or User Templates (+) defined on the left panel.

• Single photos on one sheet are Maximize Size. • Check the top left corner of the photo for the desired printer & paper (I). If wrong, use Page Setup.

• (Do not select a “borderless” paper, let Lightroom control that, o/w it may not print.) • Click File > Printer settings (Shift+Alt+ Ctrl +P).

• (More advanced controls are available by installing a driver from Gimp-Print’s Gutenprint. (http://gimp-print.sourceforge.net/ ) Next, go to Print & Fax in System Preferences, select Driver> Select Printer Software, select the one with your printer name, followed by “-Gutenprint”, OK.)

• Click on the pop down that says Layout. Check all choices, especially anything like Printer Features, and Advanced. Set for software [Lightroom] manages color, not printer (if n/a, use ColorSync {Mac} or ICM {Windows}). Use higher photographic qualities. Recheck the Summary page. If all is desired, go back up to the Presets pop down box and select Save As. Type a name for this printer’s photo setup. The Color Management choices should be grayed out.

• Now, use the Save button on the front window of the Print box. • Work down the right-side panel: (If you want rulers visible, press Ctrl +R.)

• Layout Engine probably should be Contact Sheet / Grid. • (Probably) uncheck the four boxes on Photo Settings controls on the upper right. • Add margins, if desired. Note the changes to Cell Size below. Tweak Cell Size, if necessary. • Skip down to Print Job. (The Print to: choices are Printer and JPEG file.) • Uncheck Draft Mode Printing unless doing contact sheets. • If you uncheck Print Resolution, and select View> Show Guides, you will see the photo size and ppi in

a box at the upper left of the print photo. It should be no lower than 180 ppi, and does not need to be above 360 ppi. Or, you may check it and specify a default resolution. (See Setup.) The most common choice is 300 ppi (240 ppi for Epson). Lower resolutions are acceptable for distant viewing.

• ! Print Sharpening should be High for glossy, Standard for matte, Low for low contrast. • Media Type: Glossy or Matte. • For Print to: JPEG file, adjust JPEG Quality to reduce the file size. 80 (%) is pretty good quality for

the file size. Then adjust the Custom File Dimensions. Use Profile: sRGB only for displays. • ☐16 Bit Output. (Only available for certain photo printers, such as the Epson 3880 or higher. Check

manufacturer’s website for drivers.) • Profile: should be provided by your printer’s manufacturer (i.e. Epson may be “SP 1400 1410

Standard”) (Click Other… for more.), or try “Managed by Printer.” (It might work for you.) • Rendering Intent: (Applies to colors that are out-of-gamut for your printer.) Relative, forces in-gamut to

stay unchanged, but Perceptual will blend colors at the gamut’s edge for a pleasing transition. • Print One (no dialog box), or Print, Print (Ctrl +P). • If you like that new profile, create a new Template by clicking the + by User Templates. Name.


http://gimp-print.sourceforge.net

http://gimp-print.sourceforge.net

Setup: • For the Adobe Photographer Plan, use the URL https://www.adobe.com/creativecloud/catalog/desktop.html .

• Creative Cloud, Download. Double-click installer. • A desktop app (∞) appears on your menu bar. • Go to the Apps tab, and Install > Lightroom Classic.

• If you are not converting to a chronological folder structure, organize a logical folder tree. (If by date, see last bullet.)

• One method is to start under the Pictures folder (on an external HDD) with folders named Who, What, Where.

• Under those would be multiple folders such as People, Architecture, North America, etc. (See below)

• Another method is to use only one Import Folder and relocate the imports later in LrC.

• To keep your current photo folders locations, chose Embedded & Sidecar previews, apply nothing in Apply During Import, then use Add for import method.

• You may also transfer you new photos by dragging them to the Library Content Area.

• If using an external HDD/SSD for the catalog and photos (rec.), create a unique [xPictures] folder on it.

• If you have a performance issue, move the catalog folder to your internal HDD/SSD and away from the photos HDD. I recommend an SSD, or a 7,200 RPM HDD with USB-3/USB-C, or Thunderbolt ports.

• Configure your operating system (OS) to open a photo app when detecting a device with photos:

• For Macs, insert a memory card with a photo, into your reader and open Image Capture in Applications.

• Click on the card name, then the tiny down triangle in the bottom left.

• Connecting this camera opens: to Adobe Lightroom Classic.app. Choose.

• Do not check Delete after import. Close. Remove card. • Repeat for other card names.

• Before launching Lightroom (LrC) for the first time: • You might want to keyword your photos based on their

present folder, and parent folders via Bridge. • Launch Lightroom (with Alt for a catalog choice). • Create a New Catalog, name the catalog [Lightroom Catalog-

Mine], Save As. • Place it in your Pictures folder, or in an xPictures folder on an external HDD/SSD. Continue.

• If you have a TB+ SSD internal drive, use it for both the catalog and photos. For a trip, create a catalog on your laptop, then File menu > Import from Another Catalog… to your desktop.

• If you want to convert to a chronological folder system, launch Lightroom, Import, locate the parent folder, use Move, select the new parent folder [Pictures], edit Rename Files to YYYY-MM-###, start with 1. ☑Into Subfolder, type [Lightroom Photos-Mine], Organize: By Date, Date Format: 2020/04. Import. Once created, rename (Fn+) F2 larger shoots with new filename preset YYYY-MM-text-###. Use Ctrl +A to select all photos in the folders, click, Shift-click a string.


Jim’s SSD Pictures Folder

https://www.adobe.com/creativecloud/catalog/desktop.html

Preferences: • Lightroom > Preferences (Ctrl + , ) Windows: Edit > Preferences (Ctrl+,): • (To reset all preferences, read Bonus Tips and Troubles, page 18.)

• General tab: • ! Automatically check for updates. (The Creative Cloud menu app will notify you of updates.) • ! Show import dialog when a memory card is detected (assuming this will be your library source).

• Connect media, configure Photo Capture to Connecting this camera opens: to Lightroom.app. • ! Select the “Current/Previous Import” collection during import to view only those photos next. • ! Ignore camera-generated folder names when naming folders (one card, multiple cameras). • !Treat JPEG files next to raw files as separate photos. If not, JPEGs can imported later by checking,

then Library menu > Synchronize Folder. • !Replace embedded previews with standard previews during idle time. • Completion sounds. If you doze off during long imports/exports, select a sound(s) (Tink).

• Preset tab: • Leave Use defaults… unchecked (at least for now). Return after Lightroom has identified cameras,

then ! select camera(s). Those with built-in lens profiles, use Camera Settings. Update Default. • ! Show Partially Compatible Develop Presets. • ☐ Store presets with (not in) catalog, in sister folders. Not all presets are in the catalog.

• If it was checked and you want to uncheck it, you might make a copy of the Lightroom Settings folder, in case you want to transfer the presets to another catalog folder, before they disappear.

• ! Check if using a multiple catalogs, so a Lightroom Settings folder is the Lightroom Catalog folder. • Lightroom Settings folder may be copied to new Lightroom Catalog folder.

• External Editing tab, if you have another editor such as Photoshop, Ps Elements, Photomatix Pro. • File Format: TIFF (more efficient updates). (Also, smaller file PSD for Photoshop, but not ACR.) • Color Space: AdobeRGB for 8 bits, ProPhoto RGB for 16 bits. (sRGB is for displays) • Bit Depth: 16 bits for ProPhoto RGB (Lightroom flavor). • Resolution: 300 ppi (240 or 360 ppi for Epson). Bigger prints may allow smaller ppi’s. • Compression: None (ZIP may not be compatible with some older programs).

• Largest file sizes are created by TIFF, ProPhoto, 16 bit, & no compression. • To open an external editor (e.g. Ps), in Lightroom’s Library, select the photo(s), press Ctrl +E, or

right-click, select Edit in Adobe Photoshop CC. (Recommend editing a copy with LrC adjustments.) • ☐Stack with original. • Template: Leave as Custom Settings, [Filename-edit].

• File Handling tab: (Windows: File Manager/Windows Explorer) • Import DNG Creation, ! Embed Fast Load Data (unless short on RAM, or using native raw files). • ☐Embed Original Raw File (duplication). • Reading Metadata, ! Treat “.” & “/” (and “|”) as a keyword separators in a hierarchy. • File Name Generation leave at /:, Dashes (-), and Do Nothing (or -, or _ if conservative-DOS days).

• Performance tab: • Camera Raw: Depending on your computer’s age (>late 2014) and power (1GB+ VRAM), try ! Use

Graphics Processor. (Generally, Metal or OpenGL 3.3+) Try Auto or Custom for Full Acceleration. • To test, in Develop, view 1:1, & quickly scroll from corner-to-corner. If delays, uncheck box.

• Camera Raw Cache Settings: A modern system should increase the max cache to around 1 GB for every 1,000 photos in your library..

• Develop. ☐Enable hover preview of presets in Loupe (memory hog), • ☐Use Smart Previews instead of Originals… unless editing without the photos drive attached

(you can not use Smart Previews for Export, Slideshows, Books, or Ps). Speed is a benefit. • Click the Go to Catalog Settings button (skipping Lightroom Mobile and Network).


• Catalog Settings: • Lightroom > Catalog Settings… (Alt+ Ctrl + , ): (or Preferences > General tab > Go to Catalog...)

• General tab, click the arrows for Back up catalog: select Once a week, when exiting Lightroom. (If this is your first setup, select When Lightroom next exits for now (later it reverts to your choice).

• If more than 4 GB, they are Zipped. Delete old ones occasionally (Lightroom Catalog>Backups). • File Handling tab:

• Standard Preview Size: Auto or close to your monitor’s screen width (I use 2048 pixels). • Metadata tab:

• ! Offer suggestions from recently entered values. • ! Include Develop settings in metadata… (Which is a set of data that describes other data.)

• (XMP is eXtensible Metadata Platform, which holds metadata such as the author’s name, resolution, color space, copyright, keywords, and the time the photo was taken, i.e. EXIF & IPTC = your information.)

• ! Automatically write changes into XMP, auto saving to both the catalog, and into the non-raw photo file (.DNG, .TIF, .JPG), or .XMP sidecar file adjacent to the raw photo file (.NEF, .CR2). • If you had not checked this before, its updating might slow down operations until done. • If you notice slow/erratic editing performance, uncheck this, and after editing photos, select any/

all photo(s), click Metadata> Save Metadata to Files, or press Ctrl +S. (See =↓warning.) ★Important! If you leave this box unchecked and don’t use Ctrl +S, only the catalog has the edits.

If you send a photo file to another photo application, without Lightroom’s Export function, that application won’t get the edits, keywords, etc. This means manual saving to XMP.

• !Write date or time… if you want to be able to correct date/time of the original raw file or .DNG, ★Lightroom is a catalog based system. Don’t change/rename/remove photos using the OS. (↓！)

• Relaunch Lightroom with When Lightroom next exits. (Some preferences require a restart to take effect.) • In the Back Up Catalog box, click Choose…, on the left side click a hard drive. Preferably using a drive

other than the current catalog’s drive. • Create a New Folder named [Backups], Choose. Back up.

• Tell Time Machine (or other backup systems) to ignore backing up this folder (possible corruption). • Also, find a way to store a copy of your photos at another location (RAID &/or portable hard drive).

• If you have more than one catalog with your personal photos, combine them into one. • File menu>Import from Another Catalog. LrC has no limit on the number of photos as far as

performance. • If you are using Photoshop, go to its Preferences> File Handling, and set Maximize PSD & PSB File

Compatibility to Always or Ask (if Ask, answer Yes when you might want to use the photo in Lightroom) • This causes larger files. • In Photoshop, select Edit > Color Settings (Shift+ Ctrl +K)> Working Spaces > RGB, set it the same as

Lightroom. Save. Type a name for your Profile. OK. OK. • For quick/easy importing, create a New Folder on your Desktop named [Auto Import Photos].

• In Lightroom, select File > Auto Import > Auto Import Settings. • For Watched Folder: Choose... Desktop. • For Move To: Choose... browse to Lightroom Photos folder. Leave Subfolder Name: [Auto Imported

Photos]. Set the rest. OK. After import, move the photos to the desired folders in Lightroom. • When you Photoshop a photo, and it is not a Lightroom Export with a Photoshop Save, you may drop it

in the Desktop folder, where Lightroom will catalog it. • Label your color labels in Bridge and your OS Finder > Preferences > Tags to match.

• Return to Library Module on page 1.


Lightroom Tips: • Customization: Go to Lightroom Classic > Identity Plate Setup to change the ID and module text & color. • Syncing two copies of Lightroom Classic (Yes, you may install your Lightroom on two computers, you just

can’t have both copies on a network at the same time. You may deactivate others copies temporarily.) • From the source computer’s Lightroom, (select photos if desired) click on the folder or collection. • Select File > Export as Catalog... Type a catalog name, locate the destination (network or portable

media), ! Export selected... only if applicable. • ! Export negative files, Yes! • ! Include available previews. Export Catalog. • On the destination computer’s Lightroom, select File > Import from Catalog, select the network or media

drive, then locate the folder, open it then click on the .lrcat file. Choose. For File Handling, choose Copy new photos to a new location and import. Import.

• Transferring Presets if Store presets with catalog is checked, copy Lightroom Settings folder in the Lightroom Catalog folder to the new catalog folder.

• Transferring all Keywords from one copy of Lightroom to another is done by selecting Metadata > Export Keywords on the master copy, and ...Import Keywords on the new copy.

• Double-Processing photos using Photoshop allows one photo to be processed in two versions for different tonal ranges, then combined for an expanded contrast range. (Raw, DNG, TIFF, and JPEG.)

• Threshold of ≈4. OK. Select Edit > Fade Unsharp Mask. Change Blend Mode to Luminosity. OK. • Select File > Save. (Print, Close or Minimize Photoshop, Lightroom still has the raw file and the

Photoshop edits, unless you use Save As in Photoshop.) • Stitching Panoramas using Photoshop. (Take several photos on a rotating head tripod, in manual

everything, with about ≈25-33% overlap, preferably in portrait layout.) • In Lightroom, click the first in the Filmstrip, and Shift+click the last photo. • Select Photo > Edit In... > Merge to Panorama in Photoshop. • In the Photomerge dialog, leave Layout in Auto, and Blend photos together checked. OK. • Photoshop Layers are created, so click the Layers menu (top right), and click Flatten Photo. • Get the Crop Tool (C) and select. Return. Some missing areas, like sky, may be Cloned (S). • Select Filter > Sharpen > Unsharp Mask.

• Try Amount at ≈85, Radius at ≈1.0, Threshold at ≈4. OK. • Select Edit > Fade Unsharp Mask, Blend Mode to Luminosity. OK.

• Merging HDR Photos using Photoshop. (For High Dynamic Range/excessive contrast scenes, take ≈3-7 frames, ±1-2 stops, exposure compensated, bracketed photos on a tripod, using aperture priority.)

• Select Photo > Edit In > Merge to HDR in Photoshop. • Ignore the quality of the preview in the Merge to HDR dialog. OK. • Select Photo > Mode > 16 Bits/Channel. • In the HDR Conversion dialog, click the triangle below Threshold:, select Local Adaptation. • Drag the top-right end of the Tone Curve to the left until it is over the right end of the histogram readings

at the bottom. Other points may be made on the Curve, adjusting contrast. • Look for Halos at edges, if they appear, reduce Radius. OK. • Select File > Save As (Shift+ Ctrl +S), in “Lightroom Watched.” Format to TIFF. Save. OK. • Select File > Open, and select the new merged .TIF photo, at the bottom, click the Format menu, select

Camera Raw. Make final tweaks. OK. • Either, drag the merged photo back into its original folder in Lightroom Photos, then in Lightroom, right-

click that folder, select Synchronize Folder, leave the checks, Synchronize; or, save it in the Lightroom Watched Folder (go to File>Auto Import Settings), then in Lightroom, drag it to its home.

• Using Plug-ins, e.g. Photomatix Pro (HDR) should automatically install, or use File > Plug-in Manager. • Use File > Plug-in Extras… to loop into the app, Save, and Return to Lightroom’s previous folder.


• Converting to Black & White. (To preview what a photo might look like in B&W, press V for a toggle.) • In Library Module, for later comparison purposes, select Photo > Virtual Copy (Ctrl + ’ ). • The new copy will appear to the right of the original photo on the Filmstrip. • This copy (2 of 2 appears when you hover over it, and have a curled corner) will be our B&W copy. • Press D for Develop module. (Edit as a color photo first.) • On the Treatment sub-panel, click Black & White. (Press Ctrl +N for an unedited Snapshot save.) • Make adjustments in the Basic sub-panel, starting with Blacks, or start with a the Profile Browser. • Adjust the contrast with Tone Curve. • Back in Black & White, use the Target Adjustment Tool adjust colors for desired tones.

• To see a split view with the color and B&W photos, press Shift+Y to toggle views.

Bonus Tips and Troubles: • Use a monitor (and printer) calibrator regularly, and learn where the monitor brightness should be set.

• I use an X-rite ColorMunki Photo (now i1Studio) every four weeks. I use either a number of clicks on the brightness button, or the Display slider position to set up for editing. Commonly ≈ 90-120 cd/m2, D65.

• Backup your desktop computer’s power with an uninterruptible, surge-protected power supply (UPS). • Run a set-it-and-forget-it backup system (e.g. Time Machine or Windows Backup).

• Set Time Machine to Exclude the catalog Backups and the photos [Second Copy] folders. • Lightroom stops Time Machine from backing up while active (Lock file appears). • This requires high capacity external HDD (portable if you also use a laptop with a desktop). • Include [Lightroom Catalog] folder (or .lrcat, lrdata, /Lightroom Settings folder,) and /[Pictures] folder.

• Buy a couple more external HDDs for monthly copies of you Lightroom folder and [/xPictures] folder. Keep one off site (a third HDD makes rotation easier).

• Stay religiously organized with passwords (but not in the clear on your computer, use a USB flash drive). Let your close ones know where to find the password list and its password.

• Password protect your password list. • One-more-time… do not play with your photos outside Lightroom! Rename, drag and drop in the Library

Module. Export and Import them. Plug-ins should be friendly, so they are okay. • Once exported, you may automate batch file re-naming in Bridge, Tools > Batch Rename. • Preferences may cause problems. To delete them, hold Alt+Shift on launch > Reset Preferences (except

Import & Export presets), or go to your user Library ({Alt+}Go menu) > Application Support > Adobe > Lightroom and select Delete. Relaunch.

• For more help, & news of upgrade issues, follow The Lightroom Queen at https://www.lightroomqueen.com. • My favorite LrC book is Martin Evening’s The Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic CC Book, 2nd edition..

Notes:

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https://www.lightroomqueen.com

https://www.amazon.com/Adobe-Photoshop-Lightroom-Classic-Book-dp-0135447399/dp/0135447399/ref=mt_paperback?_encoding=UTF8&me=&qid=1586196965


Useful Keyboard Shortcuts for Lightroom (Lr) for Windows By Jim Lamb at [email protected]

Library Module: Ctrl+Alt+1... Help: F1, Module Help: Ctrl+Alt+ / View: … Undo: Ctrl+Z… Redo: Shift+Ctrl+Z 1:1 / Loupe View: Enter or double-click highlighted image Enter Loupe View: E... Toggle between Loupe and Zoom: Spacebar Compare View [X|Y]: C (after selecting images) Survey View: N (a Number of images)( “ )(/ or click x to eliminate) Enter Grid View: G... Toggle between Grid and Loupe: ~ Select All: Ctrl+A... Deselect All: Ctrl+D … Cycle to next Screen View: F Screen View to Full/Normal: Shift+Ctrl+F Cycle Grid Views: J (Alts: Ctrl+J)... Cycle Loupe Views: I (Alts: Ctrl+I) Enter to previous View: Esc F5 Cycle through Lights Out Views: L Impromptu Slideshow: Ctrl+Enter Tab= F7 +F8 Hide L & R panels: Tab... Hide all panels: Shift+Tab Tools: Show the Toolbar: T F6 Star Ratings: 1-5 (Rate and open next image: Caps Lock or Shift+1-5) Color Flag Labels: 6-9 (6=Red...)(Label and open next image: Shift+6-9) Increase Rating: ]... Decrease Rating: [... Reset Rating: 0 (zero) Select as Pick: P (white flag)... Select to Reject: X (black flag)... Undo: U Photos: Import photos: Shift+Ctrl+I... Export photos: Shift+Ctrl+E Add to Quick or Target Collection: B... Create New Collection: Ctrl+N Copy Develop settings: Shift+Ctrl+C... Paste settings: Shift+Ctrl+V Edit in (Photoshop, etc): Ctrl+E... E-mail photo: Shift+Ctrl+M Library Filters toggle: Ctrl+L Merge to HDR: Ctrl+H, Merge to Panorama: Ctrl+M (as in Mountains) Next selected photo: Ctrl+ ⇢... Previous selected photo: Ctrl+ ⇠ Rename file(s): F2 Reveal in Finder: Ctrl+R Remove from Library and into Trash: Ctrl+Backspace Rotate CCW: Ctrl+ [... Rotate CW: Ctrl+ ] Save Metadata to file: Ctrl+S (not necessary if Cat. Preference set to Automatically write …) Stack photos in group: Ctrl+G... Unstack photos: Shift+Ctrl+G Zoom in: Ctrl+ = (left of Backspace key), Zoom out: Ctrl+ - (left of = key) Zoom tool (magnifier): Z... Toggle between Loupe and Zoom: Spacebar

Develop Module: Ctrl+Alt+2, Develop Loupe View: D Clipping Warnings toggle: J... White Balance Sampler: W Before/After toggle View: \... Side by side: Y... Top/Bottom: Alt+Y Black & White toggle: V... Delete all selected: Shift+Backspace Cycle Crop Overlay: O... Rotate Crop: X... Constrain/Unconstrain Crop: A Cycle Info Overlay: I... Display Info Overlay: Ctrl+I Edit in Photoshop: Ctrl+E Hide Pins or Spots: H... Delete Pin or Spot: click, then Backspace Show the bottom Toolbar toggle: T Soft Proofing on: S... Soft Proofing off: Shift+S Tools: Crop: R... Spot: Q... Grad Filter: M... Radial: Shift+M… Brush: K Virtual copy: Ctrl+ ‘… Snapshot: Ctrl+N

(As of October 16, 2020 9:30 PM)

Lightroom Workflow for Windows - capcitycameraclub.com

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