Legend Swimwear Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Factory Limited Product Evaluation Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung Dr. M.Y. Leung
Dec 26, 2015
Legend Legend Swimwear Swimwear
Factory LimitedFactory Limited Product EvaluationProduct Evaluation
Dr. M.Y. LeungDr. M.Y. Leung
Content (2 hours)Content (2 hours)
1. Introduction of Product Evaluation
2. Scope of Product evaluation3. Specifications of Swimwear
Fabrics4. Fabric testing
Fabric Construction Physical Properties Colorfastness Properties
Scope of Scope of EvaluatioEvaluatio
nnMatching Matching PatternPattern
Blind-stitched hem
Product Inspection
Workmanship checking
Labeling checking
Performance Testing
Performance Quality of Textile Performance Quality of Textile ProductsProducts
Other YarnCharacteristics
Yarn Count
FabricSett
FabricThickness
Fabricweight
FibreCom position
Construction
AbrasionResistance
SeamSlippage
SeamStrength
BurstingStrength
TearStrength
TensileS trength
Durability
D im ensionStability
Draping
SnaggingResistance
P illingResistance
Colorfastness
AppearanceRetention
Aesthetic
W eather/Organismresistance
Appearanceafter finishing
Colorfastness
D im ensionStability
Care
Others toxic orenvironm ental test
Form aldehyreRelease
Flam m ability
W aterrepellence
Functional& Safety
Handle
A ir/ watervapor perm eability
MoistureRegain/ content
W ettability
Therm alProperty
Com fort
Performance Tests for Performance Tests for Swimwear??Swimwear??
What suggestion for Care What suggestion for Care Label??Label??
Knits specializing on stretchable & functional knitsKnits specializing on stretchable & functional knits
Swimwear fabrics
Pigment print, pigment discharge print, rubber print, burn-out Pigment print, pigment discharge print, rubber print, burn-out print, puff printprint, puff print
Exit Back to Overall
Swimwear Fabrics
ProductsStretch woven fabrics with Embroidery
Exit Back to Overall
Care-label for SwimwearCare-label for Swimwear
Wash in warm water (40°C)Wash in warm water (40°C) Do not bleachDo not bleach Do not ironDo not iron Do not dry-clean/ No dry-cleanDo not dry-clean/ No dry-clean Do not tumble dry/ Flat dry/ Hang dryDo not tumble dry/ Flat dry/ Hang dry
Specification and Specification and StandardStandard
Throughout the world there Throughout the world there are numerous organizations are numerous organizations to develop standard test to develop standard test methods and regulations to methods and regulations to control the performance control the performance quality of textile.quality of textile.
Uniformity of standards are Uniformity of standards are with a growing need.with a growing need.
International standards to International standards to alleviate some of the alleviate some of the problems faced by problems faced by manufacturers that export or manufacturers that export or import from foreign import from foreign manufacturers are necessary.manufacturers are necessary.
Sources of StandardsSources of Standards
International Standards
National Standards
Company Standard
Product
Spec
International StandardsInternational Standards
International Used Standards:International Used Standards: The International Organization for The International Organization for
Standardization (ISO)Standardization (ISO) British Standards (BS)British Standards (BS) American Association of Textile Chemists American Association of Textile Chemists
and Colorists (AATCC)and Colorists (AATCC) Japanese Industrial Standards (JIS)Japanese Industrial Standards (JIS) European Committee for Standardization European Committee for Standardization
(CEN)(CEN)
What are the specifications for Swimwear?
Are there any difference between swimwear and other knitted and woven fabrics?
What make the difference?
Specification for Knitted and Woven Specification for Knitted and Woven Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)
CharacteristicsCharacteristics RequirementRequirement
KnittedKnitted WovenWoven
Breaking strength ASTM D5034Breaking strength ASTM D5034
Bursting strength ASTM D 3787 (bursting Bursting strength ASTM D 3787 (bursting attachment)attachment)
Yarn slippage, 6mm (separation) ASTM D Yarn slippage, 6mm (separation) ASTM D 434434
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424
Dimensional Change AATCC 135Dimensional Change AATCC 135 Pressing and finishing Pressing and finishing After 5 launderings (shrinkage > 3%)- After 5 launderings (shrinkage > 3%)-
testing stretchtesting stretch Growth ASTM D 2594Growth ASTM D 2594
ColourfastnessColourfastness Burnt Gas Fumes – 2 cycles AATCC 23Burnt Gas Fumes – 2 cycles AATCC 23
Shade change from original fabricShade change from original fabric
Shade change after 1 launderingShade change after 1 laundering
--
222N222N
--
--
2% max2% max
3% max3% max
3% max3% max
Class 4Class 4
Class 4Class 4
111N (25 lbf)111N (25 lbf)
--
89N (20lbf)89N (20lbf)
6.7 N (1.5lbf)6.7 N (1.5lbf)
1% max (pre-finished)1% max (pre-finished)
2% max (post-2% max (post-finished)finished)
3% max3% max
Class 4Class 4
Class 4Class 4
Specification for Knitted and Woven Specification for Knitted and Woven Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)
CharacteristicsCharacteristics RequiremeRequirementnt
KnittedKnitted WovenWoven
Colourfastness Colourfastness Laundering: colour change AATCC 61Laundering: colour change AATCC 61
stainingstainingCrocking: Dry AATCC 116Crocking: Dry AATCC 116
WetWetPerspiration: Shade Change AATCC 15Perspiration: Shade Change AATCC 15
StainingStainingLight Light (40 AATCC FU) (Xenon-arc) AATCC 16(40 AATCC FU) (Xenon-arc) AATCC 16Water: Chlorinated Water: Chlorinated Fabric Appearance Fabric Appearance AATCC 124, AATCC 96AATCC 124, AATCC 96Flammability FFA Part 1610Flammability FFA Part 1610
Class 4Class 4
Class 3Class 3
Class 4Class 4
Class 3Class 3
Class 4Class 4
Class 3Class 3
Class 4Class 4
Class 4Class 4
DP 3.5DP 3.5
PassPass
Class 4Class 4
Class 3Class 3
Class 4Class 4
Class 3Class 3
Class 4Class 4
Class 3Class 3
Class 4Class 4
Class 4Class 4
DP 3.5DP 3.5
PassPass
Specification for Knitted Swimwear (ASTM Specification for Knitted Swimwear (ASTM D 3996)D 3996)
CharacteristicsCharacteristics RequirementRequirement
TestTest RequirementRequirement
Bursting strength (Ball bursting)Bursting strength (Ball bursting)
Dimensional Change Dimensional Change
LaunderingLaunderingNon-stretchNon-stretchStretchStretch
Wet relaxation or growth Wet relaxation or growth
Dry relaxation or growthDry relaxation or growth
ColourfastnessColourfastness Burnt Gas Fumes – 1 cycles Burnt Gas Fumes – 1 cycles
- Shade change from original fabric and - Shade change from original fabric and after 1 after 1
laundering cyclelaundering cycle-Sodium Hypochlorite bleachSodium Hypochlorite bleach-Non-chlorine bleachNon-chlorine bleach LaunderingLaundering
Shade changeShade change
StainingStaining
ASTM D 3787ASTM D 3787
AATCC 135AATCC 135
AATCC 23AATCC 23
AATCC 188AATCC 188
AATCC 172AATCC 172
AATCC 61AATCC 61
30 lbf (133N)30 lbf (133N)
5% max5% max
7.5% max7.5% max
10% max10% max
5% max5% max
Class 4Class 4
Class 4Class 4
Class 4Class 4
Class 4Class 4
Class 3Class 3
Specification for Knitted and Woven Specification for Knitted and Woven Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)
CharacteristicsCharacteristics RequirementRequirement
TestTest RequirementRequirement
Colourfastness Colourfastness Crocking: DryCrocking: Dry
WetWetPerspiration: Shade ChangePerspiration: Shade Change
StainingStainingSea water: Shade ChangeSea water: Shade ChangeOzone: Shade changeOzone: Shade changeLight (40 AATCC FU) (Xenon-arc)Light (40 AATCC FU) (Xenon-arc)Flammability FFA Part 1610Flammability FFA Part 1610
AATCC 8 (solid)/ AATCC 8 (solid)/ AATCC 116 AATCC 116 (print)(print)
AATCC 15AATCC 15
AATCC 106AATCC 106
AATCC 129AATCC 129
AATCC 16AATCC 16
Class 4Class 4
Class 3Class 3
Class 4Class 4
Class 3Class 3
Class 4Class 4
Class 3Class 3
Class 4Class 4
PassPass
Buyer’s Specification for Knitted Buyer’s Specification for Knitted SwimwearSwimwear
CharacteristicsCharacteristicsTestTest RequirementRequirement
Mass per square meter Mass per square meter
Force & Elongation Force & Elongation
Dimensional Change (Drying tumble)Dimensional Change (Drying tumble)
ColourfastnessColourfastness Nitrogen OxideNitrogen OxideArtificial LightArtificial LightWashing at 40°CWashing at 40°CWaterWaterSea waterSea waterChlorinated waterChlorinated waterPerspirationPerspirationDry RubbingDry RubbingWet RubbingWet Rubbing
Fibre CompositionFibre Composition
ISO 3801ISO 3801
ISO 5077ISO 5077
BS 4294BS 4294
ISO 105G/01ISO 105G/01
ISO 105B/02ISO 105B/02
ISO 105C06ISO 105C06
ISO 105E01ISO 105E01
ISO 105E02ISO 105E02
ISO 105E03ISO 105E03
ISO 105E04ISO 105E04
ISO 105X12ISO 105X12
ISO 105X12ISO 105X12
ISO 1833ISO 1833
±3%±3%
±10%±10%
±3%±3%
4/54/5
44
44
44
44
44
44
44
44¾
±3%±3%
What are the What are the different between different between
testing testing swimwear/fabrics swimwear/fabrics and commercial and commercial apparel fabrics?apparel fabrics?
Fabric with StretchFabric with Stretch
Most fabrics used for Most fabrics used for swimwear are elasticswimwear are elastic
By insertion of Spandex/ By insertion of Spandex/ Lycra etc.Lycra etc.
All elastic yarns are covered All elastic yarns are covered with a layers of fibres/ with a layers of fibres/ filamentsfilaments
Two ways of covering: air-Two ways of covering: air-jet and wrappingjet and wrapping
Fabric AnalysisFabric Analysis Standard Conditions:Standard Conditions: Pre-conditioned:Pre-conditioned: Stored the specimen in chamber with Stored the specimen in chamber with Temperature < 50°CTemperature < 50°C Relative humidity: 10 to 25 %Relative humidity: 10 to 25 % Conditioned:Conditioned: BS: 20±2°C and RH% 65±2%BS: 20±2°C and RH% 65±2% ASTM: 21±1°C and RH% 65±2%ASTM: 21±1°C and RH% 65±2% What types of tests are required to carry out in What types of tests are required to carry out in
controlled condition?controlled condition?
Fabric AnalysisFabric Analysis
Standard Conditions:Standard Conditions: Pre-conditioned:Pre-conditioned: Conditioned:Conditioned: BS: 20±2°C and RH% 65±2%BS: 20±2°C and RH% 65±2% ASTM: 21±1°C and RH% 65±2%ASTM: 21±1°C and RH% 65±2% What types of tests are required to What types of tests are required to
carry out in controlled condition?carry out in controlled condition?
Tensile StrengthTensile Strength For fabric with stretch < 11%For fabric with stretch < 11% To obtain the breaking load and elongation at To obtain the breaking load and elongation at
break of a textile fabricbreak of a textile fabric Grab test: 1-inch grab (ASTM D 5034, JIS L Grab test: 1-inch grab (ASTM D 5034, JIS L
1096, ISO 13934-2:99)1096, ISO 13934-2:99) Strip test: 2-inch strip test (ASTM D5035, JIS L Strip test: 2-inch strip test (ASTM D5035, JIS L
1096, ISO 13934-1)1096, ISO 13934-1)clamp
clamp
3 inches
200 mmGrab Test Strip
Test
Tensile StrengthTensile Strength
Load and Elongation Curve
Tearing StrengthTearing Strength
Tearing strength refers to the force required to Tearing strength refers to the force required to break a group of yarns (max. up to 3 pieces) break a group of yarns (max. up to 3 pieces) together by tearing off the fabric.together by tearing off the fabric.
There are various types of tearing depends on There are various types of tearing depends on application.application.
Tearing StrengthTearing Strength
ElmendorfElmendorf Only for warp-direction of Only for warp-direction of
warp knit and wovenwarp knit and woven ASTM D1424-96ASTM D1424-96 JIS L 1096JIS L 1096
Tongue TearTongue Tear Single ripSingle rip ASTM D 2261-96ASTM D 2261-96 JIS L 1096JIS L 1096
Elmendorf Tearing Elmendorf Tearing StrengthStrength
Criteria: The tearing
strength must be within 80% of the centre capacity.
What happen if the tearing load is at the 95% of the max loading?
Release the weight to tear off the fabric
Bursting Strength (most Bursting Strength (most common for knitted fabrics)common for knitted fabrics) Bursting is radial or multi-directional Bursting is radial or multi-directional
breaking strength.breaking strength. There are two types of bursting strength: There are two types of bursting strength:
ball bursting and hydraulic bursting.ball bursting and hydraulic bursting. Multi-directional force from a steel ball is Multi-directional force from a steel ball is
push up the fabric held in flat until push up the fabric held in flat until rupture.rupture.
Multi-directional force from pressure of an Multi-directional force from pressure of an inflated diaphragm is applied on fabric inflated diaphragm is applied on fabric until rupture.until rupture.
Bursting StrengthBursting Strength
Bursting StrengthBursting Strength Diaphragm bursting Diaphragm bursting For knitted swimwear or woven swimwear with stretch > For knitted swimwear or woven swimwear with stretch >
20%20% ISO 13938-1:99/BS 4768, ASTM D 3786-87ISO 13938-1:99/BS 4768, ASTM D 3786-87
Ballistic ball bursting For high strength fabric or high stretch fabric ASTM D 3787-80
Bursting StrengthBursting Strength
Radial extension Hydraulic
diaphragm bursting
Bursting pressure= P(f+d) - P(d)
Fabric StretchFabric Stretch
Stretched the fabric in defined load/ length
Keep the stretched fabric for defined time
Measure the change of L
L
Fabric Stretch and Fabric Stretch and GrowthGrowth
Stretch = (L2 – L1) x 100%L1
L2: extended length under load
L1: original length
L2
L1
Fabric Stretch and Fabric Stretch and GrowthGrowth
Growth = (L3 – L1) x 100%L1
L3: extended length after released
L1: original length
L3
L1
Dimensional Changes of Dimensional Changes of Fabric after Home LaunderingFabric after Home Laundering
Dimensional StabilityDimensional Stability Maintenance of the shape and dimensions of a Maintenance of the shape and dimensions of a
textile product can be a significant factor in its textile product can be a significant factor in its acceptance by consumers.acceptance by consumers.
Terminology:Terminology: ““Refurbishing” is used to describe any of a Refurbishing” is used to describe any of a
number of process that textiles may undergo to number of process that textiles may undergo to remove soil and stains and to restore the remove soil and stains and to restore the appearance of the items.appearance of the items.
Two most common refurbishing methods are Two most common refurbishing methods are “laundering” and “dry-cleaning”.“laundering” and “dry-cleaning”.
Dimensional StabilityDimensional Stability
Refurbishing Refurbishing A) LaunderingA) Laundering
It is based on the use of water as a solventIt is based on the use of water as a solvent Water is effective in dissolving water-based spots and stainsWater is effective in dissolving water-based spots and stains Detergents are laundering aids used to enhance cleaningDetergents are laundering aids used to enhance cleaning
B) Dry-cleaningB) Dry-cleaning It requires the use of organic solvents to dissolve oily soils It requires the use of organic solvents to dissolve oily soils
and stains, such as body oils, waxes, fats and makeupand stains, such as body oils, waxes, fats and makeup Because only a minimal amount of water is used, fibres do Because only a minimal amount of water is used, fibres do
not swell significantly and therefore, do not shrink as much.not swell significantly and therefore, do not shrink as much.
Dimensional StabilityDimensional Stability
Dimensional stability refers to a fabric’s ability to Dimensional stability refers to a fabric’s ability to resist a change in its dimensions.resist a change in its dimensions.
A fabric or garment may exhibit A fabric or garment may exhibit shrinkage or growthshrinkage or growth under conditions of refurbishing.under conditions of refurbishing.
Items are especially affected by the Items are especially affected by the moisture and moisture and heat used in washing, tumble drying, and in steaming heat used in washing, tumble drying, and in steaming and pressing.and pressing.
There are various ways that need to shrinkage occur There are various ways that need to shrinkage occur when textiles are subjected to heat and/or moisture.when textiles are subjected to heat and/or moisture.
What are the causes of What are the causes of Dimensional Instability?Dimensional Instability?
Relaxation Shrinkage:Relaxation Shrinkage: Results of relaxation of stress of fabricResults of relaxation of stress of fabric
Progressive ShrinkageProgressive Shrinkage Dimensional change that continues through successive Dimensional change that continues through successive
washingwashing
GrowthGrowth Shrinks in length results grow in widthShrinks in length results grow in width
Yarn Reduction/ Thermal shrinkageYarn Reduction/ Thermal shrinkage It occurs in thermoplastic fibres.It occurs in thermoplastic fibres. Upon imposition of heat, fabrics/polymer molecules move Upon imposition of heat, fabrics/polymer molecules move
more randomly, nonlinear form and thus decrease the more randomly, nonlinear form and thus decrease the lengthlength
Relaxation ShrinkageRelaxation Shrinkage
Dry state: Yarns are stretched Dry state: Yarns are stretched and temporarily set.and temporarily set.
Release of strains Release of strains Energy releasedEnergy released IrreversibleIrreversible Need several washings to min & Need several washings to min &
stable energy level.stable energy level.
Causes of stretching Causes of stretching (Woven)(Woven)
WarpingWarping WeavingWeaving Wet-finishing, dyeing printing etc.Wet-finishing, dyeing printing etc.
Causes of Extension Causes of Extension (Knitted)(Knitted)
Take-down tension of the knitting m/cTake-down tension of the knitting m/c Sewing or spreading of the knitted Sewing or spreading of the knitted
goodsgoods
Fibre Level: ProgressiveFibre Level: Progressive
Progressive ShrinkageProgressive Shrinkage Fibre SwellingFibre Swelling Fibre movement within Fibre movement within
the textile structurethe textile structure
What causes progressiveWhat causes progressive
shrinkage more serious?shrinkage more serious? Alkaline mediumAlkaline medium Higher temperatureHigher temperature Greater freedom of Greater freedom of
movement.movement.
How does fibre swelling would lead to How does fibre swelling would lead to fabric shrinkage?fabric shrinkage?
Fibre swellingFibre swelling Yarn Yarn swellingswelling
Balance of forceBalance of force If so, how to solve the If so, how to solve the
problem of shrinkage due problem of shrinkage due to fibre swelling?to fibre swelling?
Contraction of Yarn Contraction of Yarn
Decrease in length of yarnDecrease in length of yarn Normally by heat/ high temperatureNormally by heat/ high temperature Synthetic filament is most sensitiveSynthetic filament is most sensitive How to reduce the shrinkage How to reduce the shrinkage
situation?situation?
Dimensional StabilityDimensional Stability
Shrinkage MeasurementShrinkage Measurement BS 5807/ BS 4923BS 5807/ BS 4923 AATCC 135 (fabric)AATCC 135 (fabric) AATCC 61 (garment)AATCC 61 (garment) Report on 1st and last washesReport on 1st and last washes Benchmarks the length of 50cm or Benchmarks the length of 50cm or
25cm apart for both warp and weft 25cm apart for both warp and weft directionsdirections
Measure the dimension of products Measure the dimension of products after treatmentafter treatment
Shrinkage % = Shrinkage % = Original - after wash Original - after wash x 100% x 100%
Original lengthOriginal lengthGrowth is positiveGrowth is positiveShrinkage is negativeShrinkage is negative
Dimensional InstabilityDimensional Instability Results Interpretation Results Interpretation
For apparel products, the required For apparel products, the required maximum shrinkage or growth usually maximum shrinkage or growth usually are dependent on types of products. are dependent on types of products.
For woven fabrics: usually maximum For woven fabrics: usually maximum shrinkage after laundering is 2.0 to shrinkage after laundering is 2.0 to 3.0%3.0%
For knitted fabrics: allowance for For knitted fabrics: allowance for shrinkage is higher, usually 5.0%shrinkage is higher, usually 5.0%
For stretch fabric: allowance for For stretch fabric: allowance for shrinkage will be higher.shrinkage will be higher.
ColorfastnessColorfastnessAATCC Definition of ColorfastnessAATCC Definition of Colorfastness Resistance of a material to any Resistance of a material to any
change in any of its color change in any of its color characteristics, characteristics,
Transfer of its colorants to adjacent, Transfer of its colorants to adjacent, or bothor both
after exposure to any environmentafter exposure to any environment
Color Loss during daily Color Loss during daily usesuses
FrostingFrosting
BleedingBleeding
FadingFading
YellowingYellowing
CrockingCrocking
Color leaves the surface of fabric due to abrasion. (Detaches)
Migration of color from wet fabric into water and then to others.
Lightening of color due to loss or breakdown of dye.
The change of color base to a very yellow version of a color.
Transfer of a color to another surface through rubbing
50
Bleeding Bleeding pipingpiping
51
Color loss Color loss inin
drycleanindrycleaningg
52
FrostingFrosting
53
Light fadingLight fading
Evaluation of Color Evaluation of Color change/ Staining (Visual change/ Staining (Visual
Assessment)Assessment) Gray Scale for Color ChangeGray Scale for Color Change Gray Scale for StainingGray Scale for Staining Chromatic ScaleChromatic Scale Blue Wool Standard (Light Fastness)Blue Wool Standard (Light Fastness)
Gray Scale for Color Gray Scale for Color ChangeChange
Nine steps of color difference by stationary pairs of Nine steps of color difference by stationary pairs of gray chipsgray chips
Half step ratingHalf step rating 5 indicates no difference (two gray chips with same 5 indicates no difference (two gray chips with same
color)color) 1 indicates extreme difference1 indicates extreme difference Neutral gray = 12 ±1%Neutral gray = 12 ±1%
AATCC Test Method 15 – 2002:Gray Scale for Colour Change Fabric Sample Size: 6 x 6 cmSolution: Acid Perspiration
GRADE * GRAY SCALE
5 No change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 5
4.5 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 4-5
4 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 4
3.5 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 3-4
3 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 3
2.5 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 2.3
2 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 2
1.5 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 1-2
1 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 1
* 5 = no colour difference 1 = highest degree of colour
difference
Fabric colour after colourfastness perspiration test
Original fabric colour
1)1) Grey Scale for Assessing Variation of ColourGrey Scale for Assessing Variation of Colour
Evaluation & ReportEvaluation & Report
Gray Scale for Gray Scale for StainingStaining
Nine pairs of white and gray color chips.Nine pairs of white and gray color chips. Half step ratingHalf step rating 5 indicates no difference (2 white chips)5 indicates no difference (2 white chips) 1 indicates extreme difference1 indicates extreme difference Rating is based on the color difference of the gradually Rating is based on the color difference of the gradually
increase darkness gray chip and the white chipincrease darkness gray chip and the white chip
Evaluation & ReportEvaluation & Report
Original colour of multifiber test fabric
Multifiber test fabric colour after colourfastness perspiration test
2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining
Multi-fibre FabricMulti-fibre Fabric
Warp: Filament Warp: Filament Dacron 55Dacron 55
Weft: multi-fibre Weft: multi-fibre fabricfabric
AcetateAcetate CottonCotton NylonNylon PolyesterPolyester AcrylicAcrylic WoolWool
AATCC Test Method 15 – 2002: Colourfastness to PerspirationAATCC Chromatic Transference ScaleMultifiber Test Fabric Solution: Acid Perspiration
GRADE GRAY SCALE
5 Negligible or no color transfer
4.5 Color transfer equivalent to Step 4-5 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
4 Color transfer equivalent to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
3.5 Color transfer equivalent to Step 3-4 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
3 Color transfer equivalent to Step 3 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
2.5 Color transfer equivalent to Step 2-3 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
2 Color transfer equivalent to Step 2 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
1.5 Color transfer equivalent to Step 1-2 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
1 Color transfer equivalent to Step 1 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
Evaluation & ReportEvaluation & Report
2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining
Visual Assessment Visual Assessment MethodMethod
Light Sources:Light Sources: Daylight D-65 (North Daylight D-65 (North
Sky light)Sky light) White fluorescentWhite fluorescent/ /
UVUV Viewing angle:Viewing angle:
Specimen is 45° froSpecimen is 45° from horizontalm horizontal
Viewing perpendicuViewing perpendicular to the specimenlar to the specimen
Color fastness to Color fastness to LaunderingLaundering
Sewn the specimen to a Sewn the specimen to a white cotton fabric/ multi-white cotton fabric/ multi-fibre fabricfibre fabric
Wash using the Wash using the LaunderOmeter LaunderOmeter
Assessment:Assessment: Color change (Grey scale Color change (Grey scale
for color change)for color change) Staining (Grey scale for Staining (Grey scale for
staining)staining)
Colorfastness to Colorfastness to LaunderingLaundering
LaunderOmeter
Wash Test ISO 105-Wash Test ISO 105-C06C06
Test Test no.no.
TemTemp. p. °C°C
pHpH Liquor Liquor 4g/l 4g/l detergedetergentnt
Cl %Cl % Sodium Sodium perboraperboratete
No. of No. of steel steel balls balls single single 30 mins30 mins
No. of steel No. of steel balls balls multiplemultiple45 mins45 mins
A1A1 4040 150150 00 00 00 1010
A2A2 4040 150150 00 11 00 1010
B1B1 5050 150150 00 00 00 5050
B2B2 5050 150150 00 11 00 5050
C1C1 6060 10.510.5 5050 00 00 2525 5050
C2C2 6060 10.510.5 5050 00 11 2525 5050
D1D1 7070 10.510.5 5050 00 00 2525 100100
D2D2 7070 10.510.5 5050 00 11 2525 100100
D3D3 7070 10.510.5 5050 0.010.0155
00 2525 100100
E1E1 9595 10.510.5 5050 00 00 2525 100100
E2E2 9595 10.510.5 5050 00 11 2525 100100
Color Fastness to Color Fastness to CrockingCrocking
Rub the fabric with a Rub the fabric with a white cotton fabricwhite cotton fabric
10 cycles in 10 seconds10 cycles in 10 seconds Dry rubbing Dry rubbing Wet rubbingWet rubbing Assessment on mainly Assessment on mainly
on stainingon staining
Colorfastness to Colorfastness to Perspiration/ Water/ Sea Perspiration/ Water/ Sea
WaterWater It is designed to It is designed to
determine the colour determine the colour fastness of textiles to fastness of textiles to perspiration, water, perspiration, water, sea water.sea water.
BS 1006, BS EN 20105, BS 1006, BS EN 20105, ISO 105, AATCC 15ISO 105, AATCC 15
Perspirometer
1)1) Soak test 6 X 6 cm specimen in Soak test 6 X 6 cm specimen in the perspiration solution for 30 the perspiration solution for 30 ±2min.±2min.
2) Pass specimen through 2) Pass specimen through wringerwringer
3) Weight specimen. Should be 2.25 ±.05 times the original dry weight.
ProceduresProcedures
4) Place assembled multi-fiber fabric 4) Place assembled multi-fiber fabric & specimen on a glass plate.& specimen on a glass plate.
5) Place the plates in the perspiration 5) Place the plates in the perspiration tester to provide uniform contact tester to provide uniform contact between the multi-fiber & fabric between the multi-fiber & fabric sample under a standard load. sample under a standard load. Then, secure the Then, secure the pressure platepressure plate
6) Heat loaded specimen into oven at 38ºC for 6hr
7) Place in conditioned atmosphere overnight (21ºC, 65% RH).
ProceduresProcedures
AATCC Test Method 15 – 2002:Gray Scale for Colour Change Fabric Sample Size: 6 x 6 cmSolution: Acid Perspiration
GRADE * GRAY SCALE
5 No change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 5
4.5 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 4-5
4 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 4
3.5 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 3-4
3 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 3
2.5 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 2.3
2 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 2
1.5 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 1-2
1 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 1
* 5 = no colour difference 1 = highest degree of colour
difference
Fabric colour after colourfastness perspiration test
Original fabric colour
1)1) Grey Scale for Assessing Variation of ColourGrey Scale for Assessing Variation of Colour
Evaluation & ReportEvaluation & Report
Evaluation & ReportEvaluation & Report
Original colour of multifiber test fabric
Multifiber test fabric colour after colourfastness perspiration test
2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining
AATCC Test Method 15 – 2002: Colourfastness to PerspirationAATCC Chromatic Transference ScaleMultifiber Test Fabric Solution: Acid Perspiration
GRADE GRAY SCALE
5 Negligible or no color transfer
4.5 Color transfer equivalent to Step 4-5 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
4 Color transfer equivalent to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
3.5 Color transfer equivalent to Step 3-4 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
3 Color transfer equivalent to Step 3 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
2.5 Color transfer equivalent to Step 2-3 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
2 Color transfer equivalent to Step 2 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
1.5 Color transfer equivalent to Step 1-2 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
1 Color transfer equivalent to Step 1 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
Evaluation & ReportEvaluation & Report
2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining
Color fastness to LightColor fastness to Light
Using the Blue Wool Using the Blue Wool standard for assessmentstandard for assessment
By gradeBy grade ISO 105 B02ISO 105 B02 BS 1006 D01BS 1006 D01 By fading unitBy fading unit AATCC 16EAATCC 16E
Assessment for Light FastnAssessment for Light Fastnessess
Measurement of Colorfastness to light for Measurement of Colorfastness to light for AATCC standard is measured the fading units.AATCC standard is measured the fading units.
Specimen = grayscale G4, ? Step of bluewool it is?Specimen = grayscale G4, ? Step of bluewool it is?
?4
L2
L3
L4
L5
L6
L7
L8
L9
Assessment for Light FastnessAssessment for Light Fastness Before exposure to the Xenon light source, the Before exposure to the Xenon light source, the
light source is required to be checked by the light source is required to be checked by the Blue Wool StandardBlue Wool Standard
Standard hours, specimen = Grayscale ? StepStandard hours, specimen = Grayscale ? Step
? 10 to 40 hours
Flammability standards for Flammability standards for normal wearing apparel normal wearing apparel
StandardsStandards Class 1: Normal flammability (suitable for clothing). Class 1: Normal flammability (suitable for clothing).
Flame spread is 3.5 seconds or more for non-raised fibre Flame spread is 3.5 seconds or more for non-raised fibre fabrics fabrics
Flame spread is 7.0 seconds or more for raised fibre fabrics.Flame spread is 7.0 seconds or more for raised fibre fabrics. Class 2: Intermediate flammability. Class 2: Intermediate flammability.
Flame spread is from 4 to 7 seconds and the base fabric Flame spread is from 4 to 7 seconds and the base fabric ignites or fuses.ignites or fuses.
Class 3: Rapid and intense burning (unsuitable for clothing). Class 3: Rapid and intense burning (unsuitable for clothing). Flame spread is 3.5 seconds or less for non-raised fibre Flame spread is 3.5 seconds or less for non-raised fibre
fabrics fabrics Flame spread is less than 4.0 seconds for raised fibre Flame spread is less than 4.0 seconds for raised fibre
fabrics.fabrics.
Time required for the flame to proceed up Time required for the flame to proceed up to a distance of 5 in (127 mm) is recorded.to a distance of 5 in (127 mm) is recorded.
The automatic timer can be stopped by The automatic timer can be stopped by breaking the stop cord at 5 inches length breaking the stop cord at 5 inches length from the starting position.from the starting position.
45°
Fire source
Cotton string
Timer
Flammability Test (45°)Flammability Test (45°)
END END
Product EvaluationProduct Evaluation