Learner Guide - files.transtutors.com · Treatments Learner Guide . 2 S:\SHB Training package\SHB Training tools\SHBBFAS003 Provide specialised facial treatments v2.00 4/10/2017 Learner

$Page 1: Learner Guide - files.transtutors.com · Treatments Learner Guide . 2 S:\SHB Training package\SHB Training tools\SHBBFAS003 Provide specialised facial treatments v2.00 4/10/2017 Learner$
Shop 2, 161 New South Head Road, Edgecliff, NSW 2027 Australia

P + 61 2 9326 2211 F + 61 2 9326 2277 www.sbdi.com.au [email protected]

Nat. Prov. No 91192 / CRICOS No 02725B

© 2016 SBDI All rights reserved

SHBBFAS003

Provide Specialised Facial

Treatments Learner Guide

http://www.sbdi.com.au/

mailto:[email protected]

2

S:\SHB Training package\SHB Training tools\SHBBFAS003 Provide specialised facial treatments v2.00 4/10/2017

Learner Guide SHBBFAS003

This work is Copyright© of:

Fuss Education Pty Ltd

Shop 2/161 New South Head Road

Edgecliff NSW 2027

Created for the delivery of Vocational Education within Sydney Beauty & Dermal

Institute, RTO 91192, CRICOS 02725B

Resources have been created by Fuss Education Pty Ltd to support the SHB Hair

and Beauty Training package and are from a collection of professional, industry

representatives and resources, and reasonable effort has been made to ensure

that the material is accurate and current. Author/s takes no responsibility for act or

omission as a result of learning. Copying, reproducing, transmission or alterations

are not permitted and a license will not be granted.

3


TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION ...................................................................................... 5

APPLICATION ......................................................................................... 5

This learner guide covers ..................................................................... 5

FOUNDATION SKILLS .............................................................................. 7

ELEMENTS AND PERFORMANCE CRITERIA ............................................ 9

PART 1 - KNOWLEDGE EVIDENCE ....................................................... 12

SECTION 1 – ESTABLISH CLIENT PRIORITIES ......................................... 18

SECTION 2 – DESIGN AND RECOMMEND SPECIALISED FACIAL

TREATMENTS ......................................................................................... 71

SECTION 3 – PREPARE FOR SPECIALISED FACIAL TREATMENTS .......... 84

SECTION 4 – CLEANSE SKIN USING ULTRASONIC OR DIRECT CURRENT

............................................................................................................. 86

Apply Ultrasonic / Sonophoresis ....................................................... 89

Apply Direct Current - Galvanic Desincrustation ............................ 90

SECTION 5 – REMOVE MINOR SKIN BLEMISHES AND INFUSE SERUM . 91

Apply Direct Current - Galvanic Iontophoresis ................................ 93

Apply High Frequency Indirect ......................................................... 94

SECTION 6 – PROVIDE MICRO-CURRENT TREATMENT ........................ 96

Apply Micro-current ........................................................................... 96

SECTION 7 – COMPLETE TREATMENT ................................................... 96

4


Apply High Frequency Direct ............................................................ 97

SECTION 8 – REVIEW TREATMENT AND PROVIDE POST TREATMENT

ADVICE ................................................................................................ 98

SECTION 9 – CLEAN TREATMENT AREA ............................................. 105

5


INTRODUCTION

This book is designed to provide a theory and assessment framework to support the

gathering of suitable evidence to prove competency in the unit.

The resource is designed for self-paced learning, as well as, distance education

settings, in a classroom or workshop setting. It is more than capable of supporting

new learners entering the industry, as well as experienced workers seeking to up-skill;

transfer to a new industry or to obtain formal qualifications.

At the completion of the learning, the Learners shall be able to demonstrate or

provide evidence of competency and understanding of the following:

Problem solving

Counselling processes and methods

Respect for client strengths or particular needs

Capacity to maintain and critique realistic limits for agency service and client

expectations

SHBBFAS003 - PROVIDE SPECIALISED FACIAL TREATMENTS

APPLICATION

This unit describes the performance outcomes, skills and knowledge required to

provide specialised facial treatments incorporating the use of ultrasonic, direct

current, high frequency and micro current devices.

It requires the ability to establish priorities with clients and synthesise knowledge of

skin, performance of electrical machines and allied cosmetic products, and to

design and provide treatments to address specific skin types and conditions. Not all

equipment is used in each specialised facial treatment. Specialised facials can be a

single treatment or form part of a series of treatments.

This unit applies to beauty therapists who work in beauty therapy salons. In this

environment they work in a team but make independent treatment decisions.

No occupational licensing, certification or specific legislative requirements apply to

this unit at the time of publication

This learner guide covers

Establish client priorities

Design and recommend specialised facials

Prepare for specialised facial treatment

Cleanse skin using ultrasonic or direct current

6


Remove minor skin blemishes and infuse serums

Provide micro-current treatment

Complete treatment

7


FOUNDATION SKILLS

Foundation skills essential to performance in this unit, but not explicit in the

performance criteria are listed here, along with a brief context statement.

Oral communication skills to: select and use appropriate anatomy and

physiology terminology in consultation with

clients

provide simple explanations to client that

describe the physiological processes of skin

damage and ageing and how the selected

device, products and advice will impact skin

appearance

protect confidentiality of client information by

ensuring that other clients and colleagues do

not overhear discussions

discuss contraindications and precautions

tactfully

Reading skills to: interpret and follow manufacturer instructions

and safety data sheets for dilution, handling and

disposal of cleaning and treatment products

source and interpret credible information from:

anatomy, physiology, skin science, cosmetic

chemistry and nutrition publications

electrical currents and ultrasound technology

publications and trade journals

anatomical charts and models

interpret product and equipment information on

safe use of cosmetic formulations, ingredients

and device parameters

Numeracy skills to:

calculate treatment duration, treatment

sequencing, costs, product quantities and prices

measure cosmetic ingredient quantities and

ratios to assess effectiveness of formulations

calculate treatment parameters for individual

device

Writing skills to:

complete workplace documentation for

electrical safety problems and equipment faults

8


FOUNDATION SKILLS

Technology skills to:

access credible online publications and

resources which build knowledge for providing

advice to clients

use software interfaces on equipment

use client software to update client notes, and

record stock data and product purchases

use electrical currents, ultrasound devices or

combination in treatment steps that will

maximise outcomes for client and minimise skin

damage

use electrical equipment to identify and address

safety issues and recognise limitations in use in

specialised facials

Planning and organising skills

to:

sequence the treatment and products

application to maximise the treatment

outcomes

Learning skills to: use knowledge of cosmetic chemistry

ingredients to assess environmental impact and

disposal methods

9


ELEMENTS AND PERFORMANCE CRITERIA

ELEMENTS PERFORMANCE CRITERIA

Elements describe

the essential

outcomes.

Performance criteria describe the performance needed to

demonstrate achievement of the element.

1. Establish client

priorities

Access and review client treatment plan if available.

Discuss facial requirements, changes in skin over lifetime,

current skin care regimen, lifestyle and nutrition influences

to establish their treatment objectives.

Conduct skin analysis, assessing areas of normal facial

skin, levels of lipids and skin hydration, degree of photo

aging and pigmentation and scar tissue as required.

Classify client skin and discuss outcomes with client.

Identify contraindications to facial treatment, and refer

client to appropriate professional as required.

Identify common skin diseases and disorders that can be

treated within scope of practice, as required.

Establish medical history, medication, and obtain

medical approval prior to treatment, as required.

2. Design and

recommend

specialised

facials

Design proposed facial for treatments to achieve client

objectives.

Discuss benefits of selected formulations and devices and

potential adverse effects with client.

Explain recommendations for duration, frequency and

cost of facial to client.

Modify treatment plan, record updates and obtain client

consent.

3. Prepare for

specialised facial

treatment

Check readiness of treatment area and availability of

equipment.

Select facial treatment products and equipment.

Prepare client, ensuring metallic jewellery, contact lens

and hearing aids have been removed.

Maintain client comfort and modesty throughout

treatment.

Position self and client to minimise fatigue and risk of

injury.

Use energy, water and other resources efficiently during

preparation and subsequent treatment process

10



4. Cleanse skin

using ultrasonic or

direct current

Remove make-up and cleanse skin according to

treatment plan.

Apply cleansing medium and select ultrasonic

parameters.

Apply ultrasonic device according to predetermined

pattern, at correct angle ensuring that skin remains moist

as required.

Provide desincrustation treatment using direct current as

required.

Remove cleansing medium according to manufacturer

instructions.

5. Remove minor

skin blemishes

and infuse serums

Steam and exfoliate as required.

Extract milia and comedones as required.

Apply high frequency to facial treatment areas, as

required.

Use direct current or sonophoresis to infuse serums

according to skin type and conditions.

Remove excess product as required.

6. Provide micro-

current treatment

Check current on self and return dials to zero.

Select application method using electrodes, rollers,

probes or gloves as required.

Apply micro current gel or cream according to

manufacturer instructions.

Select treatment parameters and apply micro current as

required

7. Complete

treatment

Apply and remove mask as required.

Apply post treatment skin care products according to

treatment plan.

Allow post treatment recovery time in relaxation area.

8. Review treatment

and provide post

treatment advice

Evaluate specialised facial with client.

Review current skin care regimen and recommend

products that support client skin priorities and maintain

skin between treatments.

Design and recommend future treatments to support

client priorities.

Manage client expectations of potential outcomes.

Update treatment plan and rebook client as required.

11



9. Clean treatment

area

Remove used linen and clean surfaces and equipment

and attachments according to organisational policies

and procedures.

Restock equipment and products in preparation for next

treatment.

Dispose of general waste to minimise negative

environmental impacts according to organisational

policies and procedures

12


PART 1 - KNOWLEDGE EVIDENCE

Federal, state or territory and local health, hygiene and skin penetration

regulations and requirements relevant to specialised facial treatments

Within Australia and each State and Territory there is legislation that applies to

practitioners working in the beauty industry and directs the infection control

procedures for all services. The aim of this legislation is to protect you and your client

by preventing cross infection and controlling the spread of disease. Each state has

developed a set of health guidelines based on the legislation to guide infection

control in a salon setting.

The skin penetration guidelines are additional and apply to any service where there

is a risk of breaking the skin or drawing blood. Skin penetration guidelines apply to

beauty services as there is a risk that blood can be drawn in some treatments.

So why do we have such detailed regulations and guidelines covering this industry?

Infections can be spread between the client and operator, and from client to client,

from you to other employees of the salon and even from you to your family and

friends. Most people that visit your salon will be free of diseases, some will

unknowingly have come into contact with a contagious condition and in rare cases

they may know that they have a contagious condition but hope that you will

proceed with the service anyway. If you follow the recommended procedures

Organisational policies and procedures relevant to specialised facial

treatments

Equipment use and maintenance

As with all beauty services, it is important that the area for service is well prepared

and organised before the client arrives and the service begins. Facial treatments

may be performed in a variety of places and are often provided as an additional

service in hair and laser clinics or can be a business that is dedicated solely to facial

treatments.

You may work in a salon where you simply need to ensure all the equipment and

materials are available and the service area is clean. Alternatively, you may be

expected to set up a service area in a new salon. The following is a list of what you

would need to take into account if you were setting up a new salon service area.

13


Some suggested equipment includes:

TOOLS LINEN EQUIPMENT

Bowl Large bath towels Brush machine

Dappen dishes Small hand towels Steamer

Mask brush Client modesty robe Trolley

Fibrella Hot towels Hot towel cabby

Cotton rounds and tips Client bolster Treatment bed

Skincare product Headband Woods lamp

Disposable gloves Hairnet Maggi lamp

Single use, sterile lances or

needles

Tissues Galvanic

High Frequency

Micro-current

Ultrasonic

All necessary equipment and materials must be prepared and maintained

according to health requirements, manufacturers’ instructions and workplace

policies and procedures. The work area must be cleaned and waste disposed of

after each client service. It is important to become familiar with the tools of the trade

including furniture, tools, skincare products, machinery and cosmetics.

A clean, tidy workplace is essential for good health and safety. A dirty workplace

can result in slips and falls which may cause injury. More importantly, it can also

contribute to infection by providing an unhygienic environment where bacteria,

fungus and virus’ can thrive.

Infections can be spread between the client and operator, and from client to client,

from you to other employees of the salon and even from you to your family and

friends. This gives you some idea of the importance of following the health

guidelines. Most people that visit your salon will be free of diseases, some will

unknowingly have come into contact with a contagious condition and in rare cases

they may know that they have a contagious condition but hope that you will

proceed with the service anyway. If you follow the recommended procedures in

your States or Territories guidelines you and your clients will be protected from cross

infection. In Section B of this learner guide you will cover how to identify contagious

diseases of the hands and feet and when to refer a client to the relevant medical

practitioner.

Incident reporting

If you are an employee, you should report immediately to your supervisor the nature

of the incident and complete an Incident Report From which should include: the

date and time of exposure, how the incident occurred and the name of the source

individual, if you know it.

14


If you are the owner, manager or an employee, you should report the incident to

your doctor or the Accident and Emergency Casualty Department at the nearest

hospital.

Under the Work Health and Safety (WHS) Act sets out certain types of workplace

incidents that need to be notified to regulators. Only the most serious safety

incidents are intended to be notifiable and they trigger requirements to preserve the

incident site pending further direction from the regulator.

Notifiable incidents are:

The death of a person

A ‘serious injury or illness’, or

A dangerous incident arising out of work carried out by a business,

undertaking or a workplace.

Linen use and laundry procedures

Linen used in premises where skin penetration procedures are undertaken shall be

Stored to prevent contamination

Only fresh, clean linen shall be used on each client

Used, dirty or soiled linen shall be stored in a suitable receptacle

Household laundering procedures are adequate for processing all soiled linen

Hands shall be dried thoroughly using disposable paper towels

Clean the surface that has been contaminated with detergent and water

using disposable wipes or paper towels

Personal hygiene and presentation

Another important part of preparation is your personal presentation which should

create a professional image. A clean and neat appearance and high standards of

personal hygiene are critical. Clients may be put

off by a general lack of cleanliness or signs of

body odour which they can detect because of

close contact with you.

As you are performing facial treatments clients will

expect that your skin, hands and nails are

representative of the sort of care that you take

and the services that you are selling. The

condition and presentation of you as a therapist

are excellent advertisements for the services of

the salon.

Presentation of treatment area

When in a workplace, it is common to be asked to

perform a variety of procedures, your station

should be stocked with a wide assortment of

15


necessary tools and supplies arranged to conform to your work habits. Since you

spend so much time in one small area, each element of your compact module

should be efficient, clean and comfortable, both for you and your clients.

Adequate lighting is essential to any job requiring visual precision. Your lighting

source should illuminate your work directly, without either getting in your way or

causing an uncomfortable glare. An adjustable lamp can be used as a moveable

heat source to help accelerate oil or cream absorption, as well.

Your chair should have ample low back support to comfortably encourage good

posture. Your station should be neatly arranged, with tools and supplies easily

accessible. Provide each client with a clean gown and headband, and make sure

that you have a wastebasket handy for immediate disposal of used supplies.

Waste disposal

Waste should be disposed of in an enclosed waste bin fitted with a plastic line,

durable enough to resist tearing. The bin should be regularly disinfected in a well

ventilated area.

Clinical waste (contaminated waste) are items such as cotton wool, sponges, tissues

plus other materials, that have come into contact with blood and bodily fluids. These

items should be disposed of immediately to prevent contamination of other clean

items and protection for both the therapist and client.

Categorised waste:

Biohazardous bin – for clinical and contaminated waste

Sharps container – for single-use sharp instruments that are used to penetrate

the skin, such as needles & razors

Recycle bin – for anything that may be recycled, such as paper, plastic

bottles and aluminium

General waste – for all other waste

Work health and safety

The Work Health and Safety Act 2011 is the main piece of legislation affecting WHS

issues. It clearly communicates the minimum standards of health, safety and welfare

required in each area of the workplace. It is the employers legal responsibility to

implement the Act and to ensure, so far as is reasonably practicable, the health and

safety at work of the people whom they are responsible and those who may be

affected by the work they do.

There is a WHS regulatory authority for every state and territory of Australia. The local

authority appoints workplace inspectors to enforce health and safety law by visiting

the workplace to check compliance is being met with all health and safety

legislation. Every business is required to have a health and safety representative

(HSR) available to provide advice and guidance and gather relevant data in

relation to health and safety and your business.

16


Management of WHS

Manufacturer instructions for use of electrical equipment The operator must be familiar with the correct operation of equipment. This means

they must read the manual provided by the manufacturer and familiarise

themselves with all aspects of the operation of and safety procedures for the

equipment. The variable output of electrical equipment (the intensity setting),

particularly equipment having electrical connections to the client’s body, must be

determined and adjusted to the client comfortability, not the therapist.

Legal and insurance liabilities and responsibilities in regard to treatments and

use of electrical equipment

New businesses are required to register their ABN (Australian Business number). The

owner of that business is then responsible for the health and safety of that workplace

under the WHS Act. As the business develops it may be necessary to notify the local

authority of further services that are available.

The employer is obliged to make to workplace safe. A written Health and

Safety Policy for the business is important to ensure staffs follow safe working

procedures. The health and safety policy identifies how health and safety is

managed for that business: who does what, when and why. The policy must be

issued and discussed with each employee and should outline their safety

responsibilities. It should include idea such as:

Details of storage of chemical substances

Details of stock cupboard and dispensary

Details and records of the checks made by a qualified electrician on

specialist electrical equipment

Names and addresses of the holders of the keys

Escape routes and emergency evacuation procedures

All health and safety policies should be reviewed regularly to ensure they meet all

relevant legislation guidelines including updates.

17


Scope of practice

When to refer clients to other practitioners

The Scope of Practice describes the procedures, actions, and processes that a

healthcare practitioner is permitted to undertake in keeping with the terms of their

professional qualification.

When consulting with clientele, it is the therapists duty of care to recognise certain

conditions or disorders that may stop or alter the treatment they are about to

perform. These conditions and disorders are categorised as contraindications.

As therapists we are not qualified to state diagnosis or treat certain

contraindications, although we can refer them to appropriate practitioners to seek

further medical assistance. Specialists that a client may be referred to include:

• Medical Practitioner

• Complimentary therapist

• Dermatologist

Roles of complementary therapist and medical practitioner

Complimentary therapists are specialists in providing additional services to that of a

medically qualified practitioner and look at treating the client as a whole, not just

the symptoms. These can include therapies such as acupuncture, iridology,

reflexology and naturopaths. These specialists can be referred to when providing

homecare and further treatment advice to the clients you see within a salon.

18


SECTION 1 – ESTABLISH CLIENT PRIORITIES

Client record management

On first meeting the client, greet them in a friendly, professional manner. Give them

a warm welcome by telling them your name and smiling. This will help to relax the

client and make them feel at ease. It is also very important to gain the client’s trust

and respect through your professionalism and knowledge.

The next step is to identify the client’s individual characteristics and needs in order to

make appropriate choices for the service. Each client has individual characteristics

and these all need to be taken into consideration before the treatment plan can be

formed.

Sample consultation card:

19


Post consultation, a therapist must always provide a design and record facial plan

for each client specifying details of:

client feedback

contraindications and conditions

facial treatment provided and equipment and products used

outcomes of previous and current treatment

post treatment care advice and products

recommended future treatments

relevant medical history and medications

treatment duration, areas treated and not treated

treatment objectives

A treatment plan is a plan that states how you are going to perform the treatment

on the client. The therapist will need to evaluate the information the client has

specified in order to recommend the most appropriate treatment to meet the

client’s needs.

Asking your client to describe exactly what they would like shows them that their

needs are important and that they will receive the best possible service from you. To

collect information about your client’s needs, you will need to ask open questions

and actively listen to the client’s needs. Clients are also encouraged to ask questions

regarding any concerns or comments they may have, including the method of

treatment, treating the hair growth in between visits and frequency of treatment.

An essential part of providing a professional service to your clients is to identify why

they want the treatment so that you can then provide accurate advice and

recommendations for the client.

Effects and benefits on the physical structure of skin

The inclusion of electrical treatments in the facial sequence has a variety of benefits.

Electrical treatments enhance the effects of

beauty treatments, enabling them to

achieve effects not possible with manual

applications.

The basic function of electrical equipment

used for facial treatments can include:

Galvanic current –infuses active

ingredients into the skin when

performing iontophoresis or when

used in desincrustation mode it has a

deep cleansing effect

High frequency, direct and indirect –

uses a high frequency alternating current for its thermal or germicidal effects.

20


Ultrasonic – infuses active ingredients into the skin

Brush machines – deep cleansing and superficial exfoliation

Steamer/vaporzone – to warm, hydrate, improve absorption of products,

provide an anti-bacterial and anti-germicidal effect

MEDALITY BENEFIT & EFFECT

Direct current

Treatments that utilised a direct current are also known as galvanic treatments.

There are three major galvanic treatments

Iontophoresis

Desincrustation

Micro-current

Iontophoresis is a treatment used to

infuse the skin with positive or negative,

water based serums or ampoules deeper

into the stratum corneum that could not

be achieved by massage alone.

Acidic effect

Closes pores

Produces hydrochloric acid

Decreases circulation

Restores skins acid mantle

Desincrustation creates a chemical

response on the skins surface to saponify

sebum and soften blockages. This is a

method of deep-cleansing.

Alkaline effect

opens pores

Saponifies

Increases circulation

Breaks down acid mantle

High frequency High frequency treatments cause molecules within the client’s skin to

rapidly ‘turn’ backwards and forwards. This rapid movement is realised as heat. Thus,

high frequency treatments have a warming effect on the body and skin. There are

two high frequency treatments

Direct high frequency Localised warmth

Stimulation of circulation

Anti-bacterial and germicidal

benefits due to ozone production

Increased cellular metabolism

Improves the moisture balance of

the skin

Calms sensory nerve endings

Drying effect

21


In-direct high frequency soothes nerve endings

increases circulation

increases cellular metabolism

Increase sebum production

improves the skin texture and

encourages desquamation

encourages product absorption

Elimination of waste product

increase skin temperature

Ultrasonic sound waves use a frequency

above the limit of human hearing. It

utilises a concentration of energy to be

delivered to localised treatment areas

and to a selected depth to target

specific layers.

Promote deeper product infusion

Increase circulation

Increases cellular metabolism

Improves tone, texture and

encourages desquamation

Micro current is also referred to as the

non-surgical facelift.

Speeds up cellular activity and

regeneration.

Improves toxin removal.

Increases lymph flow.

Improves skin tone and texture.

Smooths deep lines and wrinkles.

Tightens slackened muscle fibres.

Improves collagen production.

Additional modalities can include:

Electrical muscle stimulator Micro-current machine – produces muscle

contraction and increases the blood supply to the surrounding tissues

Radio frequency – promoting and assisting collagen induction therapy

Oxygen infusion – non-invasive hydration treatment, targeting the main

concerns of the client and infusing a nutrient rich serum.

Principles and properties of electrical currents and the technology used in

specialised facials

The use of electricity in beauty therapy treatments is a long standing tradition. This is

because the treatments are effective and you can achieve results with electrical

treatments that you could not achieve if you simply used manual methods.

This area of beauty therapy is rapidly evolving and this understanding these

specialised components will provide you with the foundation knowledge needed to

understand how electricity is used today in beauty therapy and future

developments.

The fundamental units of electricity consist of Atoms. An atom is the smallest

component of an element, which cannot be broken down by any element and is

22


characterized by a sharing of it properties, a nucleus with neutrons, protons and

electrons.

Protons – positively charged ions (+)

Neurons – ions with no charge (0)

Electrons – negatively charged ions (-)

Atoms are created ‘neutral’. This means they have the same amount of protons and

electrons. Only when electrons have been taken away or exchanged from the

atom does it then carry an electrical charge, either positive or negative. Once the

atom is in this charged state, it is known as an Ion.

A neutral atom becomes a positive ion by losing an electron (cation)

A neutral atom becomes a negative ion by gaining an electron (anion)

Now that Ions have been formed, both positively charged and negatively charged,

they can now attract or repel each other.

Ions that hold the same charge (positive to positive) repel each other

Ions that hold a different charge (positive to negative) attract each other.

This concept will help us understand a circuit and how specialised machines create

a circuit within the body.

Energy

Energy is the capacity to do work. There are a number of things we can say about

energy.

Without energy, no work can be done. (Work is the transfer of energy from

one body to another).

Every change that occurs involves the transfer of energy. When two objects

interact, energy is transferred from one to the other and as a result, both

objects are altered.

As all matter contains energy, energy is everywhere.

The primary source for most of the energy we use is the sun.

Various forms of energy can be identified.

Electrical supply

Power or electricity must come from a source, for many this will be a power point on

the wall. But let’s look beyond this point.

23


Electricity is generated in a high grade and in mass amounts at power stations

(hydro-power plants, nuclear plants and windmill farms). Then distributed through

transmission stations, substations, and powerlines then connected to the home or

salon via a power box. From here, electrical wires are what diffuse the energy to the

power point.

Through many natural sources, electricity can be made. Predominantly there is coal,

water, wind & UV, all viable and semi-sustainable if used correctly. These natural

sources go through a transformation period when being converted into energy.

1. Fuel source is transferred into a boiler or vat to be heated. If the source is wind

or UV it is absorbed through panels or wind tunnels and directly transferred to

the turbines.

2. Steam/Vapour is created from the heating process and directed to turbines.

Meanwhile, excess emissions evaporate into the surrounding environment.

3. The turbines are designed to continuously spin. The spinning momentum

creates a mechanical energy (motion and movement energy) and the

excess condensed water gets recycled for further boiling.

4. This mechanical energy then enters a transmission station and distributed

through substations and power lines.

5. Within a salon or home

24


Electrical circuits

A circuit consists of a number of electrical components connected together to form

a conducting path and achieving a desired function. If the components form a

continuous closed path through which a current can circulate, the circuit is said to

be closed. When the circuit is broken, as with a switch, it is said to be open.

Electrical currents & Electrolytic process

A flow of charged electrons is also known as an electrical current. Although, for this

to occur, there are four (4) necessary components:

1. source of electrical energy (external power supply)

2. conductor containing charged electrons which allow for the electrons to flow

3. potential difference (electrical potential between two points) along the

conductor. This is measured in volts.

4. closed circuit

Principles and processes of direct and alternating currents

Electrical energy and electron movement

As we know that natural sources are converted into energy and diffused down to

the home or salon, then comes the types of current utilised in the specialised

machinery.

1. Alternating current is a type of current that electrons continually turn

backwards and forwards within one circuit. This can happen thousands of

times per second and is generally found in the power source, for example a

battery. High frequency is a specialised modality that also requires an

alternating current.

25


2. Direct current is a type of current that electrons are continually flowing in one

direction only. Galvanic and micro current are two specialised modalities that

require a direct current.

Thermal effect

When an electrical current passes through a conductor such as water, it becomes

hot and its temperature increases. This is because moving electrons are continuously

colliding (using kinetic energy) through the conductor, then forcing the conductor

to heat up.

If you focus on the main conductor of the skin and human body, water, water is the

conductor that will heat and continue to heat the surrounding structures, including

blood, lymph fluid, cells, tissue and glands.

This is known as the joule heating effect, and this is the thermal effect of electricity

within the skin.

Electrodes

An electrode conducts an electric current, allowing it to enter or leave a specific

site. Due to their ability to effectively filter electricity from one source to another,

electrodes are extremely versatile and several different types have been created to

meet a wide variety of machinery and treatments. As a main principle when working

with electrodes and specialised machinery:

26


Frequency ranges

Frequency is the measure of energy when being exerted from a machine. When

working with currents, we need to look at the frequency and at what rate are they

delivering the electricity. Alternating current delivers different ranges in frequency,

and is measured in hertz (Hz) and defined as one cycle per second.

Within beauty facial machinery, we predominantly work within a ‘high frequency’

range. This is identified as an output of over 100,000Hz, or 100,000 cycles per second.

This high frequency creates an astounding amount of movement within the

molecules of the body and skin, creating the strongest effect, consequently

generating the greatest thermal response.

Second to high frequency is medium frequency. This frequency has an output of

around 1000 – 100,000Hz. Sonophoresis works within a medium wave frequency, but

second to that Interferential therapy is the dominant service, utilizing two medium

frequency currents which pass through tissue simultaneously. They are set up so that

their paths cross; and in simple terms they interfere with each other. It is not

commonly used within the beauty industry but in rehabilitation and occupational

therapies for acute pain, oedema, and tissue repair and muscle stimulation.

Thirdly is low frequency, giving an output of 0 – 1000Hz. The skin has a high resistance

to low frequency and is not used within beauty therapy treatments.

Capacitance this is the amount of charge stored between two conductors for each

volt of potential difference. Capacitance occurs when a non-conducting material

separates the conductors. It is in fact a means of storing charge. To measure this, an

electronic component must be utilised, known as a capacitor they are used for

storing charge and energy.

Specialised facial applications:

Iontophoresis is a treatment used to infuse the skin with positive or negative, water

based serums or ampoules deeper into the stratum corneum that could not be

achieved by massage alone. It is based on a direct current and of the basic

principles of electricity – like charges repel.

An electrode will always

have a polarity:

Anode: Positive electrode

Cathode: Negative

electrode

27


The treatment uses two electrodes: one which is held by the beauty therapist and

applied to the skin (the active electrode), and one which is held by the client (the

inactive electrode). The two electrodes have opposite charges - the cathode

(negative -) and the anode (positive +).

As opposites attract, the ions flow from one electrode to the other beneath the

surface of the skin. So, the negative is drawn towards the positive and vice versa.

The charges are made of ions or charged particles; these are found within the

treatment serum. They can be negative or positive and it is the ions that flow into the

skin.

For example:

Desincrustation creates a chemical response on the skins surface to saponify sebum

and soften blockages. This is a method of deep-cleansing. Its application is similar to

that of iontophoresis, but its result occurs on the surface of the skin rather than in the

dermis. Desincrustation also uses a direct current and always uses the cathode (-) as

the active electrode. The action at the cathode (-) creates the treatment, drawing

away impurities, debris and blockages from the skin, in conjunction with sodium

chloride or a desincrustation fluid.

The positive serum (ions)

will be repelled by the

anode (+) and attracted

to the negative electrode,

therefore forcing the

treatment serum into the

skin.

(Known as Cataphoresis)

The negative serum (ions)

will be repelled by the

cation (-) and attracted

to the positive electrode,

therefore forcing the

serum into the skin.

(Known as Anaphoresis)

OR

28


Micro current is also referred to as the non-surgical facelift and is also suitable for

prematurely aged skin. This specialised machine uses an interrupted direct current

creating small pulses through the active electrode. It is a form of electrical muscle

stimulation (EMS) at a very low intensity. The target site for micro current is the muscle

fibres creating a non-visible contraction and skin cells, stimulating the regenerative

process.

High frequency utilises an alternating current, causing molecules within the client’s

skin to rapidly ‘turn’ backwards and forwards. This rapid movement is realised as

heat. Thus, high frequency treatments have a warming effect on the body and skin.

There are two high frequency treatments

Direct high frequency where the active

electrode is applied directly to the client’s

skin, and allowing the alternating current

to circulate around the surrounding

tissues. Within the active electrode a gas

is produced that induces an anti-bacterial

and anti-germicidal environment. It is

known as ozone. This makes this

specialised machine perfect for oily or

acne/congested skins.

Indirect high frequency this method of

applying high frequency involves creating

a circuit of electricity between the

electrode, client and beauty therapist. The client holds the electrode, whilst the

beauty therapist performs a massage on the shoulders, neck and face (excluding

tapotement movements). The current is drawn to the beauty therapist’s massaging

hands and fingers. Superficial movements will produce a stimulating effect, as the

29


current will flow just beneath the skin’s surface. Deeper movements will produce a

more relaxing effect as the current is contained more deeply within the skin. This

form of massage can also be recognised as a ‘Viennese massage’.

Principles of static electricity

Is also known as ‘Stationary electric charge’, and typically produced by friction,

static electricity is the transfer of electrons from one material to another, commonly

seen with hair and a balloon.

When two materials are rubbed together,

electrons may be dislodged from one material

and transferred to another. Given any two

materials, one will have a greater attraction for

electrons than the other. The material with the

greater attraction for electrons will gain them

and an overall negative charge will result, whilst

the material that has lost electrons will have an

overall positive charge.

Rubbing materials together doesn’t make charge; it simply separates negative and

positive charges that exist within the materials. This build-up of stationary charge is

called static electricity.

Principles and properties of ultrasound and beauty therapy ultrasonic

applications

Energy forms

Energy has a number of different forms, all of which measure the ability of an object

or system to do work on another object or system.

Here are some of the different forms:

ENERGY DESCRIPTION EXAMPLE

Kinetic Energy of motion Any moving object has

kinetic energy

Potential

Energy stored by an

object by virtue of its

shape or position

A watch spring or water in

a dam

Gravitational

Energy stored in an object

by virtue of its position

within a gravitational field.

Gravity is a force of

attraction between any

two objects.

Object on a shelf

Heat

The transfer of internal

energy from one body to

another due to a

temperature difference.

Infrared lamp

Chemical Energy stored in chemical

bonds Acid peel

30


Electro-magnetic Energy contained in

photons of light Lasers for hair removal

Sound

Changes within the

vibrational pressure of a

material

Music

Elastic Energy stored in distorted

elastic objects Elastin in skin

Electrical

Energy stored in a

difference in charge or

carried in an electric

current

Build-up of static electricity

from walking on nylon

carpet, power lines

carrying electricity

Nuclear Energy released by

nuclear reactions

Nuclear fission – splitting

the nucleus of an atom

(for example, uranium)

Magnetic

Energy that arises when

electrons or other

charged particles move

Magnet

Ultrasound energy is a form of mechanical energy, using vibrations and a medium to

pass through to deliver it effect. It can be concentrated to localised treatment areas

and to a selected depth to target specific layers.

Definition of sound waves and ultrasound, ultrasonic

Sound waves create a disruption or pattern of movement of mechanical energy as

it passes through a substance, such as air or water. The pattern of disruption is what

creates a wave-like effect, then carrying the sound in all directions away from the

original source. They are what we can hear.

Ultrasound creates the same waves as that of sound waves, but the frequency of

the wave is above what the human ear can hear. These high frequency waves

(20,000Hz) reflect from objects and this is what can determine a pulse.

Ultrasonic waves are the exact same as ultrasound waves. Within the beauty

industry it is recognised as Sonophoresis. With a reduced frequency, the waves

enable us enhance the penetration and absorption of active ingredients to treat the

skin. Furthermore it will improve cell metabolism, promote the synthesis of cell

proteins and revive connective fibres.

Characteristics of a wave

As we know, there can be long waves and short waves but to be able to identify the

strength and frequency, we need to look at four (4) different components:

1. Wavelength - defined as the distance from a particular height on the wave to

the next spot on the wave where it is at the same height and going in the

same direction.

2. Crest – highest point of a wave

3. Trough – lowest point of a wave

31


4. Amplitude - When you measure the amplitude of a wave, you are really

looking at the energy of the wave.

As a general rule:

“The longer wavelength represents a lower frequency / strength, whereas the shorter

wavelengths represent a higher frequency / strength”.

Mechanical and thermal responses

It has been found that the thermal effect is dependent on the strength and duration

of the service. The longer the treatment duration, the more heat the skin will absorb.

As the sound waves create micro-vibrations the energy will subsequently increase

the skins temperature.

Skin barrier properties

For Sonophoresis to penetrate the stratum corneum it must break down the skins

natural flora, or acid mantle. The vibration of soundwaves, (20,000Hz), breaks down

the lipid barrier, and small spaces open allowing for follicular and intercellular

delivery of the active ingredients.

Operational characteristics of ultrasonic devices

The machinery should be followed according to manufactures instructions. In

general terms, the machine holds its own electrode that dispenses the soundwaves.

Referred to as the ‘blade’ it is used in two ways and is a two stage treatment. The

first being a deep cleansing sequence, utilising around 500Hz at the tip of the blade.

Then an infusion of active ingredients to follow, utilising around 20-28,000Hz allowing

for the deeper penetration of product.

32


Contraindications which restrict prevent treatment or require clearance from

a medical professional to proceed and relationship to specialised facials

“A condition or disease that can either stop or alter the treatment you are about to

perform…”

It is very important that all contra‑indications for treatments be taken into account

when recommending and providing treatments to clients. It is also important that

you are able to communicate these to the client without causing unnecessary

alarm. The client may not be aware that certain treatments can affect their

particular medical condition and you may need to explain why you are unable to

provide a particular treatment or why a treatment needs to be varied.

By explaining all relevant issues to the client and offering solutions you will further

strengthen your relationship with your client. If the client has a medical condition

and you are unsure whether treatment should start you can refer to a more senior or

experienced beauty therapist for advice. Before doing this however, make sure that

you get the client’s permission. You may also refer the client to their doctor for

permission before starting treatment. If this is the case you should make sure that the

client has all the necessary information to explain the treatment and its effects to

their doctor.

1. TOTAL contraindication: A contraindication that would completely stop the

client from receiving a beauty treatment.

2. Condition requiring MEDICAL PERMISSION: A contraindication that requires

documented approval from the client’s doctor or specialist to proceed with

beauty treatments.

3. LOCAL contraindication: A contraindication that may change the application

of treatment, for example products used, areas covered.

Some contraindications may include:

Bacterial infections occur when the infection on the skin is caused by bacteria, such

as:

Pustules and boils, bacteria form in the follicle.

Acne can also be described as a bacterial infection.

Conjunctivitis, an infection of the eye, it becomes red, swollen & a pus

discharge.

Stye found in the follicle of the eyelash, the eye becomes hot, red and sore

and a pimple forms. It may also become itchy and can spread very quickly to

the other eye or from person to person.

Impetigo where the infection is in the epidermis

33


Fungal infections are caused by fungi and can occur anywhere on the body.

Tinea corporis which affects the body

Tinea capitis which affects the scalp and hair

Tinea pedis is found on the foot

Parasitic infections is an infectious disease caused or transmitted by a parasite

Scabies, a contagious skin disease marked by itching and small raised red

spots, caused by the itch mite.

Pediculosis is an infestation with lice. Generally over areas covered with hair

Fleas a small wingless, jumping insect which feeds on the blood of mammals

and birds

Viral infections occur because of a viral infection.

Herpes simplex type 1 (known as cold sores) found on the face mainly around

the mouth and nose as red, sore blisters.

Warts are another common viral infection.

Cancer presents in various forms of dysfunctional cells which multiply rapidly in the

body. It can be topical (e.g. melanoma) or internal (e.g. lung cancer). A medical

certificate is required as some treatments may accelerate the condition due to

stimulation of blood and lymphatics, which could transport cancerous cells to other

parts of the body.

Clients with symptoms of infectious disease, Treatments should not be performed in

cases where infectious skin infections or diseases (that is, those that can be

transmitted to others) are present in and around the treatment area. The client

should be advised to seek medical treatment, where appropriate, and obtain

clearance from their doctor before treatment can resume or start.

Pigmented lesions can be seen as hypo or hyper coloured, unusual localised skin

tissue.

Recent skin treatments, depending on the skin treatment received for example

micro-dermabrasion or chemical peel, the skin can remain extremely sensitive skin

that is easily irritated and can be prone to allergic reaction. It is encouraged that

only prescribed skincare to be utilized post-skin treatment to encourage and support

the healing process and results.

Injectables

Botox (botulinum toxin made from the clostridium botulinum bacteria): No

facial treatment for a minimum of one week after injection. This is to ensure

that the facial does not contribute to migration of the Botox.

Dermal Fillers: No facial treatment for a minimum of two weeks after injection.

This is to avoid causing pain to the client.

34


IPL (Intense pulsed light) is a technology used by cosmetic and medical practitioners

to perform various skin treatments for aesthetic and therapeutic uses including hair

removal, photo-rejuvenation, and treatment of dermatologic diseases

Laser a device that generates an intense beam of coherent light (or other

electromagnetic radiation) targeting pigment in the skin. Utilised to perform hair

reduction and tattoo removal treatments.

Undiagnosed lumps can present as a piece or mass of solid matter without regular

shape or of no particular shape. The client should be advised to seek medical

treatment.

Pacemakers are an electrical device sutured into a client’s chest to stimulate the

heart muscle and regulating its contractions. As this devise is self-paced via its own

battery pack, another electrical current cannot be introduced into the client’s

body; specialised machinery treatments should not be performed.

Allergies, any history of sensitivity or allergies. For example, if a client is allergic to nuts

then an almond and honey scrub would be contraindicated.

Areas exhibiting loss of tactile sensation. This is the sensation produced by pressure

receptors in the skin. If this sensation is lost, there can be a disconnection within the

CNS and/or circulation and integumentary systems.

Dysfunction of the nervous system, also known as ‘Autonomic neuropathy’ it refers to

damage to nerves from certain medications, injury, or disease

Medications that cause thinning or inflammation of the skin. These medications can

include those for blood-thinning such as aspirin, warfarin and Plavix. Also those

treating acne, most commonly Roaccutane, retinols and corticosteroids.

Skin traumas, inflammations and swelling, breakages of bones, strains on muscles

and tendons all collate to take precaution in the area. Care should be taken in

treatment. No treatment in the affected area. For example, a facial can proceed if

the client has a broken leg or arm, but not massage on the affected limb.

Recent scar tissue; a mark left on the skin after a surface injury, wound or operative

treatment has healed.

Foods which may have an effect on the skin or are contraindicated when

using specific products

Proper nutrition is a primary factor in maintaining the skins health. Some foods

directly affect certain conditions of the skin, for example, spicy foods and alcohol

35


consumption can induce rosacea. Other foods can be contraindicated by

conditions such as allergy and sensitivity.

There are two rules of thumb when selecting skincare when a client is

contraindicated.

1. Do not utilise a product with ingredients that the client cannot consume

internally due to allergy, and

2. Do not utilise a product with ingredients that may irritate or trigger a present

skin condition

Importance of not diagnosing skin conditions and diseases

In the course of your work, you will come across clients with common skin problems.

Having knowledge of the symptoms and causes of these disorders is important in

understanding areas of the skin that may need to be avoided completely or treated

gently with mild, soothing products rather than stronger products. In other cases you

can work safely on a client with a condition or apply treatments that improve it. In a

few cases you cannot do a facial or skin treatment at all and will need to refer the

client to a medical practitioner.

It is necessary to identify any diseases or damage to a client’s skin before beginning

with a facial treatment. The client needs to be informed about the appropriate

actions to be taken which may include seeking treatment from a doctor or

dermatologist. Any diagnosis must be left to a medical specialist; however basic

knowledge allows the therapist to clearly explain to a client that a treatment cannot

be performed until the problem has been resolved.

Factors likely to affect suitability of treatment for client

Results of a specialised facial regime will depend on:

Client commitment

Budgetary and time constraints

Outcomes of previous treatment

Client skin biology or genetics

Client skin condition and concern

Client willingness to follow home care advice

The above factors influence the effectiveness and results gained from a facial

regime. These should all be taken into account when designing a treatment plan,

recommending products and services and future treatment recommendations.

36


Skin anatomy and physiology

Skin is the part of the body which is most visible and therefore contributes to the

development of a person’s self-esteem and wellbeing. The care, maintenance and

enhancement of the skin are the central functions of the beauty industry.

Knowledge of the structure and function of the skin will give you an understanding of

how a range of beauty treatments affects the skin and its functions. The skin itself is

an organ – a combination of tissues that performs a specific function in the body.

A group of organs that operate together in the body is called a system. The skin is

commonly recognised as the Integumentary System. The integumentary system or

skin covers the whole body and made up of two layers of skin and includes the hair

and nails.

The skin is a cell-making factory containing approximately 4.5 meters of blood

vessels, 1300 nerve endings, 650 sweat glands, 100 sebaceous glands; it can cover

20 square feet and accounts for 15% of our body weight.

The Epidermis is the outer layer of skin that is composed of five (5) layers of different

cells, the most important of which continue to develop throughout our life. The

epidermis plays an important role for the rest of our skin, providing a barrier against

light, heat, water, bacteria and a range of chemicals.

37


The epidermis is composed of four or five layers. The skin of the palms and the soles

of the feet have five layers due to their greater exposure to friction.

The epidermis is composed of four or five layers. The skin of the palms and the soles

of the feet have five layers due to their greater exposure to friction. These five layers

include (from most superficial to deepest layer):

Stratum corneum – The barrier properties of the skin are mainly due to the

remarkable stratum corneum. It provides a barrier to the entry of light, heat, water,

bacteria and a range of chemicals.

Stratum lucidum - this layer is made up of clear flat dead cells and layer is only visible

in the skin of palms and soles. It contains a clear substance called eleiden which

eventually becomes keratin. Eleiden is translucent, therefore giving the layer its

name, lucidum, which means clear.

Stratum granulosom – contains a substance called keratohyalin, which eventually

forms the keratin found in the topmost layer of the epidermis. This layer is made up of

between three and five rows of cells in various stages of degeneration.

Stratum spinosum – is formed of eight to ten rows of many-sided (polyhedral) cells.

When viewed under a microscope these cells may have a prickly appearance, this

layer is also known as the ‘spikey’ layer.

Stratum basale – cells in this layer are continually dividing and multiplying –this layer is

the source of new cells. The cells are cuboidal to columnar in shape and as they

multiply they push their way up through the other skin layers. This layer is also called

the stratum germinativum.

38


Epidermal cells

The cells in the epidermis layer are flat, dead

and completely filled with keratin. They are

continually shed at the rate of 20,000 per hour

and are replaced from below. These

keratinized cells or keratinocytes are

arranged like the bricks in a wall. The narrow

spaces between these ‘bricks’ are filled by a

protein and lipid substances that acts like

cement holding the cells together. The

surface of the stratum corneum is flat and

continuous and is pierced by the opening of

the hair follicles and sweat glands. It fulfils its

remarkable role despite being only 15-150

microns thick – about the thickness of two

sheets of paper.

The cells which make up the epidermis are known as stratified squamous epithelium.

The most numerous is the Keratinocyte

This cell undergoes the process of keratinisation. The keratinocyte’s function is to

produce the protein, keratin. This protects the skin, makes it less permeable to water

and other substances. It also plays a role in immunity.

Keratinisation

An organised rotational production line that converts living cells at the base of the

epidermis, basale layer, into dead, hardened, compacted layers of protein (keratin)

on the outer surface, corneum layer, this process taking approximately 200 days for

a cell to mature in the epidermis. The life time of a mature cell is between 7-20 days

and the replacement time for the stratum corneum (top layer) between 32-36 days.

Every day millions of dead skin cells are sloughed off or worn away from the surface

of the skin. As the dead cells are worn away, the skin will naturally trigger itself to

produce more. The name for this process is called desquamation.

The Langerhans cell and Melanocyte cell are additional cells to the epidermis where

they play roles in immunity, UV filtering and reproduction.

Cell division and differentiation

Mitosis is used when a cell needs to be replicated into exact copies of itself.

Everything in the cell is duplicated. The two new cells have the same DNA, functions,

and genetic code. The original cell is called the mother cell and the two new cells

are called daughter cells.

39


Cells go through different phases called the cell cycle. The "normal" state of a cell is

called the "interphase" where genetic material is duplicated. When a cell gets the

signal that it is to duplicate, it will enter the first state

of mitosis called the "prophase".

1. Prophase - During this phase the chromatin

condenses into chromosomes and the

nuclear membrane and nucleolus break

down.

2. Metaphase - During metaphase the

chromosomes line up along the middle of

the cell.

3. Anaphase - During anaphase the

chromosomes separate and move to

opposite sides of the cell.

4. Telophase - During telophase the cell forms

two nuclear membranes around each set of

chromosomes and the chromosomes uncoil.

The cell walls then pinch off and split down

the middle. The two new cells, or daughter

cells, are formed. The splitting of the cells is

called cytokinesis or cell cleavage

The Dermis is the second layer. The skin gets its thickness and toughness from this

layer; making it roughly 25 times thicker than the epidermis, these features come

from its collagen and elastin fibres. The dermis consists of two (2) layers; the papillary

layer and the reticular layer. This layer also contains blood and lymph vessels, which

supply nourishment to the skin, sebaceous (oil) and sudoriferous (sweat) glands,

nerves, hair follicles, arrector pili muscle and large protein molecules such as

glycosaminoglycan’s and hyaluronic acid forming connective tissue.

The papillary layer connects the dermis to the epidermis. Located within the layer

are dermal papillae, small projections which greatly increase the surface area. The

dermal papillae also contain nerve endings, which are sensitive to touch. These

projections are what give the epidermis fingerprints.

Underneath this is the reticular layer. It sits below the papillary layer and here is

where you will find the thick connective tissue of collagen and elastic fibres. The

word ‘reticular’ means net-like and refers to this network of fibres. Around the fibres is

a gel like substance made up of salts and large protein and sugar molecules called

glycosaminoglycan’s which can bind to themselves large quantities. You will also

find hyaluronic acid, a natural fluid promoting the reproduction of the above fibres.

Hyaluronic is now a common ingredient in skincare products for anti-aging.

40


Dermal structures

Collagen is a protein produced by fibroblasts and accounts for about 75% of the

weight of the skin. This is what gives the skin its tensile or flexible strength and is able

to scatter some of the light entering this layer. It looks like little ropes in the skin.

Elastin fibres interweave with the collagen fibres and are named after the function

they perform in the skin - it is the elastin which pulls the skin back to its natural shape

after stretching. Collagen and elastin are classified an ‘insoluble proteins’ meaning

they’re unable to dissolve in water, as cosmetic ingredients meaning they will rarely

penetrate the skin and should be transported into the skin within another molecule

or injection.

As we age, these fibres break down and become depleted, therefore causing the

surface appearance of fine and deep set wrinkles. Unfortunately, these two fibres do

not reproduce at the same rate throughout our lives so prevention, lifestyle and use

of appropriate skincare are key ways to ensure the dermis maintains its structural

integrity.

Furthermore the dermis provides insulation and resistance to mechanical injury. It

provides the supporting framework of the skin and also contains numerous hair

follicles, nerves, glands and blood vessels.

The vascular (containing the blood) system in the skin is a fine, branching network

composed of venous and arterial blood vessels. These supply the skin with oxygen

and nutrients and together with the lymphatic system remove waste materials. The

vascular tissue within the dermis also helps to regulate temperature. The blood

supply to the skin is most concentrated in the scalp, hands, feet and nipples. The

blood vessels contain blood which contains haemoglobin. This is bright red in colour

when it is carrying oxygen and a blue-red colour when it is on its way back to the

heart.

Arteries carry oxygenated

blood

Veins carry deoxygenated

blood

41


Structure, function and distribution of skin glands

There are between 2 and 4 million sudoriferous (sweat) glands found across the

human body. These are coiled tubular glands that are found in the dermis or lower

part of the skin.

They produce a watery secretion and open on to the skin to help control body

temperature and provide an emotional response to stimulus. When you sweat the

moisture on your body evaporates and provides a cooling effect for the body.

There are two types of sweat glands, eccrine sweat glands and apocrine sweat

glands. Both types of glands are controlled by the sympathetic nervous system,

which controls many of our involuntary actions such as breathing, heartbeat and

sweating.

The sebaceous (oil) glands are widely distributed throughout the skin, except in the

palms and soles and some mucous membranes, but most of them open to the

upper hair follicles at hair follicle sites. Sites where multiple individual sebaceous

glands congregate are called sebaceous zones. They are seen in the scalp, face

(the “T zone,” which includes the forehead, regions of the glabella and the

nasolabial groove), sternal regions, armpits, naval, and external genitals

Production, composition, functions and control of skin gland secretions

Sebum

Sebum consists of lipids, cell membrane fragments, cytoplasmic remains, enzymes

and protein fragments. The most important of these are the lipids. The sebaceous

lipids are quite different in both function and composition to epidermal lipids.

Epidermal lipids are derived from the keratinocytes and account for only 5% of skin

surface lipids while sebaceous lipids account for 95%.

Sebaceous lipids are a constituent of sebum. They form a more or less occlusive film

or sealing on the skin. The addition of sebaceous lipids to dry, oil-deficient skin,

restores the normal skin condition. Epidermal lipids primarily contain ceramides,

cholesterol and free fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, are found among the lipids

of the stratum corneum. They make up the corneum permeability membrane, which

is mostly determined by the content of these epidermal lipids. The balance of lipids

on the stratum corneum can be improved by the topical application of skin related

lipids through facial treatments and specialised skin care products.

Sebum or oil protects the surface of the skin and lubricates both the skin and hair. Oil

is secreted by the sebaceous gland, located all over the skin except for the palms

and soles and follows hair growth and is almost always paired with the hair follicle.

The sebaceous gland, the hair, the hair follicle and the arrector pili muscle are

grouped together and are called the pilo-sebaceous unit.

42


Sebum keeps the skin soft and protected from outside elements as it balances the

skin pH level. This oil also slows down trans-epidermal water loss, allowing the skins

cells to reproduce in a water dense environment.

Sebaceous glands are continually active in sebum production but then cease

production and shrink. The oil producing period is varied but is estimated to be

between several weeks to several months. It is unknown as to whether the gland

regenerates after this period but the likelihood is low, rather a new lobe is thought to

develop.

The duct of the sebaceous gland is usually small or absent. The sebum is excreted

into the mouth of the hair follicle. It coats the hair and exudes onto the skin surface.

Moderate levels of sebum leave the hair nice and shiny, too much makes it oily. All

hair follicles contain a sebaceous gland. Sometimes however, the sebaceous gland

exists by itself in the skin, especially in menopausal women.

At the onset of puberty there is a surge in the production of androgens (hormones),

which stimulate sebum production. Between the ages of 10 years and 19 years the

production increases at six (6) times the average rate. Production then decreases

steadily with increasing age.

The sebaceous glands are most concentrated on the forehead and cheeks (900 to

100 per square centimetre) and the scalp and chin (400 to 700 per square

centimetre). The rest of the skin averages 100 per square centimetre. There are also

high concentrations of quite large glands for lubrication on the vermilion margins of

the lips, the labia minora, the glans, penis and the eyelids.

Eccrine and apocrine sweat fluids

There are two types, the apocrine glands and the eccrine glands.

The eccrine gland consists of secretory and tubular sections. The secretory portion is

formed of closed

coils and is present

in the hypodermis.

It consists of two

layers of cells: the

inner or ‘luminal’

layer and the

outer or ‘basal’

layer. These layers

are capable of

reabsorbing

secretions. The

tubular portion of

duct winds its way

43


up from the dermis through the epidermis to the opening on the skin’s surface known

as a sweat pore.

The eccrine sweat glands are distributed throughout the skin in humans and are

particularly concentrated on ‘volar’ skin (skin of the palms of hands and soles of

feet). Eccrine sweat glands are by far the dominant type of sweat glands in humans.

In an adult human there are approximately 2-4 million sweat glands and these are

fully developed but very shallow and non-functional by the 28th week of life. The

density of the glands is reduced from birth through to adulthood. The number of

actual glands does not change but the growth of the body and expansion of body

surface reduces the number of glands per square centimetre of skin.

Apocrine glands are quite separate from the eccrine sweat glands and are

connected to the pilo-sebaceous unit in the same way as the sebaceous glands –

they do not have a separate duct opening to the skin surface, they are also much

larger than eccrine glands. The heaviest concentration of apocrine sweat glands is

in the axilla (underarm) where they are also large and very active, and in the

perineum or genital region. The external auditory canal (ear canal) and areola

(nipple area) of mammary skin contains apocrine glands in more limited numbers

and they are rarely activated at these sites. Apocrine glands develop from and are

associated with the hair follicles and their ducts open into the upper portion of the

hair shaft.

The eccrine and apocrine sweat glands produce different types of sweat.

Unlike the sebaceous gland, the eccrine gland is not connected to a hair follicle.

The coils within the secretory section of the gland contain a sodium pump, which

actively secretes the sweat through the cell membrane. The composition of the

sweat is modified as it travels up the intradermal portion of the duct through the

process of reabsorption. When it exudes onto the surface of the skin, the

composition of sweat is similar to that of urine. Production is controlled by the

autonomic nervous system but can also be stimulated by drugs, heat and exercise.

The role of eccrine sweat production is to provide thermoregulation and excretion.

Apocrine sweat glands are larger than eccrine. They continuously secrete a fatty

sweat into the gland tubule. Emotional stress causes the tubule wall to contract,

expelling the fatty secretion to the skin, where local bacteria break it down into

odorous fatty acids.

44


Characteristics of eccrine and apocrine sweat:

ECCRINE SWEAT APOCRINE SWEAT Thin watery fluid Sticky, milky coloured fluid

pH sits between 4 and 6 Slightly acidic

Contains sodium, potassium, chloride,

lactate, urea and ammonia

Contains the same as eccrine plus EFA’s

and proteins

Evaporates quickly Odourless when first secreted

Produces odour when met with bacteria

and dries like glue

The Hypodermis is at the bottom of the dermis and composed of adipose (fat) tissue.

This creates a protective cushion that gives contour and smoothness to the body, as

well as providing a source of energy.

Function of the skin

Protection

The skin provides protection from abrasion and slows the loss of water from the body.

It stops most chemicals entering the skin and is an effective barrier preventing

microorganisms from entering the body. It shields us from the most harmful rays of

the sun. The stratum corneum is laminated and is infused with an oil and protein

substance that repels water and many chemicals and micro-organisms. It also

prevents water loss from the deeper layers of the skin. The stratum corneum is an

important layer in understanding the effects of skin care products such as

moisturisers which are applied as part of facial and body treatments to reinforce the

skin’s protective functions.

Hair provides a feedback mechanism to the body. When the hairs of the skin are

touched, even very lightly, the sensation is detected by the touch receptors in the

skin and you react to the stimulus. Protection from UV rays is performed by the

melanocytes located in the skin.

Role in skin of tissues

‘Tissue’ is a collection of similar cells that perform a particular function. Each tissue

has a specific function and can be recognised by its characteristic appearance.

Body tissues are composed of approximately 60-90% water, along with other

substances. There are five (5) main types within the body:

1. Connective – Supports, protects and binds other tissue together. For example

collagen. Collagen is the most abundant type of connective tissue within the

body. Not only found in the skin, but also in ligaments and cartilage and

tendons.

2. Nervous – carries messages to and from the brain and controls and

coordinates the bodily functions. Nerve tissue is composed of special cells

known as neurons, which make up the nerves (touch receptors), brain and

spinal cord.

45


3. Vascular/Liquid – includes lymph and blood. Carries food, waste products

and hormones through the body.

4. Epithelial – is the protective covering of the body, primary example is skin, but

also mucous membranes, lining of the heart, digestive and respiratory organs

and glands (sebaceous and sudoriferous).

5. Muscular – sit below the skin and attach to bone. Muscular tissue creates

movement, contraction and expansion to various parts of the body.

Sensation

Abundant nerve endings and specialised receptors detect changes on the outside

of the skin and give information about pain, temperature, touch and pressure. This

allows us to interact with the environment safely.

Thermoregulation

During temperature homeostasis, or thermoregulation, the skin and homeostasis

cause the body to sweat. When the skin senses that the body is heating up because

of the environment's temperature, the hypothalamus sends a signal via nerves to

sweat glands and blood vessels in the skin. The blood vessels dilate to allow more

blood flow through the skin, which — in tandem with sweating — lowers body heat.

Body temperature regulation done by skin and homeostasis also informs the

hypothalamus of when the body is cold. This causes the hypothalamus to send

signals to the body to tell it to raise its temperature. The body then begins shivering,

constricting blood vessels and forming goose bumps in a process called

piloerection. Piloerection is when hair follicles make the hair stand up in an effort to

warm the body.

The body creates its own heat through involuntary actions such as cellular activity

and reproduction, contraction of muscles and the heat produced by organs such as

the liver, brain and heart. In other circumstances, outside influences such as hot

food and drink, digestion and absorption of heat from UV, warm water, saunas and

steam trigger thermoregulation throughout the body.

To stay cool, the body has four pathways – convection, conduction, radiation and

evaporation.

Convection is getting rid of the heat by physically transferring it to another liquid or

gas. For example to cool air circulating over the body.

Conduction is almost the same process but in this case the heat is transferred to an

object by direct contact, for example, through the urine and faeces. Or it may

mean that the heat is moved around the body.

Radiation, the loss of heat through electromagnetic radiation. This is when the

surface blood vessels dilate and heat radiates into the surrounding air. This only

works if the surrounding air is cooler than the body.

Evaporation, through the production and evaporation of sweat from the skin

surface. This is particularly important when the temperature of the surrounding air is

46


higher than the temperature of the body and radiation doesn’t work. That is

sweating only works if it has the opportunity to evaporate. Evaporation works

efficiently in dryer air. It is harder to achieve in high humidity. The last two methods of

heat reduction are the most predominant ways to keep your body at the right

temperature in hot weather.

Vitamin D production

Ultra-violet light from the sun activates the production of vitamin D. The skin contains

a substance call pro-vitamin D3 that reacts with UVB (ultraviolet-B) rays in sunlight.

This produces vitamin D3. From here, vitamin is travels to and through the liver and

kidneys, converting it into the form that the body needs. It is recommended that 10

minutes of protected sun exposure each day is an appropriate amount to increase

and sustain vitamin D3 within the body.

Stages in wound healing, origin and evolution of scars

Wound healing is a complex subject although we give it little thought and take it for

granted. Skin damage or injury stimulates a process that aims at returning the injured

tissue to its normal structure and function. Two kinds of wound healing can occur,

depending on the depth of the wound. Epidermal wound healing occurs following

wounds that only affect the epidermis. Deep wound healing occurs following

wounds that penetrate the dermis or deeper tissue layers.

The following information is brief outline based on the scientific fact that cells

communicate by electrical signals. When the skin is wounded cells react by

changing their usual electrical signaling. These changes stimulate skin cells to release

chemical compositions, proteins, growth factors and the proliferation of fibroblasts

(collagen cells), which in turn create new stronger, healthier collagen.

The factors of wound healing can be altered when dealing with clients who:

Are in poor health

Smoke

Consume excessive amounts of alcohol and caffeine

Circulatory disorders

Diabetes

Epidermal Wound Healing

Common types of epidermal wounds include abrasions (skin has been scraped

away) and minor burns (superficial blisters). Epidermal wound healing also occurs in

deep wound healing and is seen in the migratory and proliferation stages.

In response to epidermal damage,

basal cells of the epidermis surrounding the wound break contact with the

basement membrane

they enlarge and migrate across the wound

the cells appear to migrate as a sheet until they meet with cells from the

opposite sides of the wound

47


at this point they stop migration (contact inhibition)

a hormone called epidermal growth factor stimulates basal stem cells to

divide and replace the ones that have moved into the wound

the relocated basal epidermal cells divide to build new cells in this way

thickening the new epidermis

Deep Wound Healing

This occurs when an injury extends to the dermis and subcutaneous layer. This

healing process is more complex because different tissue layers need to be

repaired.

The wound healing process can take months, even years and in some case may

never actually end.

Deep wound healing occurs in four phases

1. Inflammatory phase 1 – 3 days: Following injury a blood clot (coagulation)

forms in the wound and loosely unites the wound edges. Vasoconstriction

reduces bleeding and blood loss. Early inflammatory wounds are red, warm

and swollen, and usually painful. Blood flow and fluid increase in the injured

area. This enhances the delivery of helpful cells such as white blood cells.

2. Migratory phase 3 – 5 days: Epithelial cells start to migrate. Fibroblasts migrate

into the area and begin to synthesize new tissue (collagen fibres and

glycoproteins).

3. Proliferative / Fibroplastic phase 5- 20 days: Damaged blood vessels begin to

regrow. Hyaluronic acid also plays a role in providing a flexible and resilient

base.

4. Maturation phase 20 days – 2 years: collagen fibres become more organised,

fibroblasts decrease in numbers, and blood vessels are restored to normal.

During maturation collagen, which is prevalent during proliferation, is

gradually degraded and built stronger.

Wound healing

Wound healing can result in the skin re- forming with a distorted or different

appearance. Factors which may delay wound healing include:

Poor diet. Vitamin A is needed for re-epithelisation and collagen synthesis,

vitamin C for collagen synthesis, and the minerals zinc, copper, iron and

manganese to support immune response and collagen and protein synthesis.

The influence of certain drugs such as high doses of corticosteroid and

anticoagulants.

Poor surgical technique including rough handling and too tight sutures.

Infection – this lengthens the inflammation stage and produces toxins and

proteases that cause damage to the cells.

Foreign material left in the wound. This will activate the immune system and

add to inflammation.

Disruption to the blood flow including hematoma which is bleeding into the

wound, and ischemia which is restriction of the blood flow to the wound.

48


Genetic factors

Recent scars are a contraindication to many treatments due to the danger of

unsettling the tissues which are healing below the visible surface of the skin.

Hypertrophic

A hypertrophic scar is a cutaneous condition characterized by deposits of excessive

amounts of collagen which gives rise to a raised scar, but not to the degree

observed with keloids. Like keloids, they form most often at the sites of pimples, body

piercings, cuts and burns.

49


Keloid

This type of scarring is caused by an increase of collagen fibres, resulting in an

overgrowth of scar tissue. The raised scar is initially red, fading from pink to white,

and may be ridged, smooth or shiny. This condition can affect all skin types. The scar

occurs over the site of a previous lesion or along a surgical incision. These convex

areas will need to be smoothed and diminished using darker colours.

Differences depending on location

It has been known that the skin varies in thickness, appendages and content

depending on:

Age

Gender

skin type

pigment

blood content

body size

location

Also, the appearance of skin varies on

different areas around the body according to

the job it is required to do. The depth of the

epidermis is thicker on the soles of the feet and

in the palms of the hand for example than on

the eyelid where it is extremely thin. This has

implications for beauty treatments in these

areas. The hands and feet take a large

amount of ‘wear and tear’ and so the skin is

thicker and ‘tougher’ as a result of this friction.

Areas of skin also differ in their features such as

the type and amount of hair, glands, nerves

and blood supply. The soles of the feet and

the palms of the hands, also known as ‘volar skin’ have no hair follicles, many sweat

glands and a high density of nerve receptors. The palms and the soles are smooth

areas of skin in most people due to the continual abrasions from shoes, walking and

manual activities.

The areas of the hands and feet exposed to the sun such as the top of the feet and

the back of the hands will often show the effects of ultra-violet radiation. The skin will

darken when exposed to the sun and may also show the effects of sun damage and

photo ageing. Skin that is not dry or damaged has a glossy appearance.

50


The lips are composed of skin, muscle and

mucous membranes; no bones and no

infrastructure, making them unique pliable.

The skin of the lip is made up of 3 to 5

cellular layers and is very thin compared to

the skin on the rest of the face. The mucous

membrane of the lip is full of capillaries (tiny

blood vessels) that are close to the

translucent surface, giving it a reddish

colour.

The lips are also somewhat fragile when

compared to other areas of skin on the

body. With no hair, sweat glands or

sebaceous glands of their own, they lack the usual protective layer of sweat and

body oils that keep skin smooth, kill’s pathogens and regulate warmth. That's why lips

tend to dry out faster and loose hydration more easily.

Homeostasis

Homeostasis (homeo – the same, and stasis – standing still) refers to keeping a

constant internal body environment while the outside environment is changing.

There are many factors in the body which need to be kept constant. Temperature is

one of these, some of the others include:

blood sugar levels

carbon dioxide levels

body water

acidity/alkalinity

Skin and homeostasis work together to help the body maintain a constant internal

environment. The relationship between them consists of three parts: a receptor, a

control center and an effector. Human skin contains receptor cells that sense a

change in the environment. These receptors send information to the control center,

the hypothalamus in the brain. The hypothalamus then tells an effector, such as

sweat glands or blood vessels in the skin, to react in order to maintain a stable body

temperature.

51


Normal skin responses to irritation and trauma

A common reaction to trauma can include a range of mental, emotional, physical

and behavioural changes. These reactions are normal and, in most cases, they

subside as a part of the body’s natural healing and recovery process. When it

comes to the skin and as beauty therapists, the ability to distinguish the difference

between a normal and adverse response is highly important.

Physiological basis of skin colour

The pigment that gives colour to your skin is melanin. It is also responsible for the

colour of your eyes and hair. Melanin protects our skin from harmful ultraviolet

radiation of the sun by absorbing the rays. The quantity and type of melanin are

determined by a handful of genes. We inherit one copy of each of these genes from

each of our parents and each gene comes in several different versions known as

alleles. It's this that's responsible for the sheer variety of skin tones.

Factors that contribute to skin

colour

The colour of the skin is

determined by the concentrations

of three main pigments:

Melanin

Carotene

Haemoglobin

These are found in the dermis and

combine to produce the

pigmentation of all surface tissues

including the skin, mucous

membranes, and even the eyes.

Abnormal concentrations of these

substances can cause distinctive colour changes in the skin or other visible body

tissues and may help in diagnosis certain illnesses or skin conditions.

Melanin is a protective substance or pigment created by the melanocyte cell and

produced in the basale layer of the epidermis. Assisting in UV protection it utilises the

dendrites from the cell to transfer colour into the keratinocyte when stimulated by

UV or heat.

Carotene is a pigment found in the stratum corneum in Asiatic ethnic groups.

Carotene and melanin together form the yellow-ish colour of the skin.

Haemoglobin is the colour matter within blood. As the body carries oxygenated

(red) blood and deoxygenated (blue) it combines with lowered levels of brown

pigmentation from melanin contribute to the pinkish colour of skin.

52


In addition, skin colour can also be

affected by:

• surface reflection of light

• absorption of light

• scattering of light

• type of light

• thickness of the skin layers

• presence of light absorbing

materials (collagen, elastin,

melanin, carotenes,

haemoglobins, lipids)

• melanosomes (number, size, type, distribution)

Structure and location of melanocytes and keratinocytes and responses to

ultraviolet radiation

Approximately one in every 10 cells in the basale layer is a melanocyte. The

melanocyte is the colour component of the skin, producing melanin when

stimulated by ultra violet radiation (UVA & UVB). Melanocytes utilise the amino acid

tyrosine in the presence of the enzyme tyrosinase to produce melanin. Once the

melanin has been produced, it is taken up by the epidermal cells and distributed

through the skin. Continued exposure to ultraviolet radiation then produces the

present amount, stimulating the dendrites of the melanocyte to stain and darken

the melanin within the keratinocytes, resulting in a tanned skin. To some skin types,

this can then provide some protection against UV.

Melanisation process

1. From UV exposure, the Pituitary Gland is stimulated

2. This gland then produces and releases MSH (Melanin Stimulating Hormone)

1. These hormones then adhere to the receptors of the melanocyte cells and

stimulates melanin production

2. The amino acid Tyrosine & enzyme Tyrosinase prepares to form within the

newly produced melanocyte

3. Tyrosine then converts into Melanin and creates pigment within the

melanosome.

The newly formed melanocytes then make their regular journey up the epidermal

layers to desquamate. It is here where pigment is transferred to the keratinocytes

and colour develops with UV exposure.

Electromagnetic spectrum and effect of light on skin

Visible light is electromagnetic radiation that we can see. Electromagnetic radiation

can also be call ‘radiant energy’, it carries or radiates energy through space on

waves; think of the waves created when a stone is dropped into water. The distance

between two (2) wave’s peaks is called the wavelength. Long wavelengths have

53


low frequency meaning the number of waves is less frequent. Short wavelengths

have higher frequency because the number of waves is more frequent.

The entire range of wavelengths of electromagnetic radiation is known as the

‘Electromagnetic Spectrum’. The electromagnetic spectrum ranges from cosmic

rays to radio waves. The length of the waves can vary from a fraction of the size of

an atom to thousands of kilometres.

Visible light is just one small part of the spectrum. The part of the spectrum that is of

interest to those in the beauty industry ranges from ultraviolet at the higher end of

the spectrum, to infrared at the lower end. The following table gives the

approximate depth of penetration for radiation of various wavelengths. As a general

rule, it can be seen that the longer the wavelength of the radiation, the greater its

ability to penetrate the skin:

ENERGY WAVE

UVC 250nm

UVB 280 – 300nm

UVA 350 – 400nm

Relationship between skin type, minimal erythema dose, skin protection

factor and sunscreen use

Sunburn can be measured! Dermatology does this by recording the amount of time

of a single exposure to sunlight that result in reddening of the skin after 24 hours. This

measurement is called a minimum erythema dose (MED).

54


Minimal erythema dose is defined as the amount of UV radiation that will produce

minimal erythema (sunburn or redness) of an individual's skin within a few hours

following exposure.

MED exposures will vary with Fitzpatrick skin type but the end result is always the

same – the beginnings of erythema. For example, MED for a type I skin may be only

10 minutes whereas MED for a type III may be 20 to 30 minutes.

To prevent sunburn, SPF can be utilised. There are two forms of sunscreen:

1. Chemical – can absorb 98% of a specific wavelength of light, being UVA or

UVB. Once absorbed the chemicals filter and reduce the penetration to the

skin.

2. Physical – are also known as ‘sunblock’. They work by reflecting, blocking and

scattering light. Zinc oxide and titanium are common ingredients used.

The performance of a sunscreen basically depends on:

the composition and selection of chemicals: UVA only, UVB only or both

the solvent they are dissolved in (often lowers the SPF)

timing of application

wear and tear while you have it on, for example, how much rubs off on

clothes

presence of any interfering chemicals in the preparation (preservatives) or in

your skin including cosmetics

SPF – sun protection factor. Sunscreens have a rating system from 2 to 30+.

The higher the number the greater the sun protection

Clients should be advised to wear a sunscreen, a hat and protective clothing

when in the sun

Many product ranges include a sunscreen and these are recommended in

Australia.

SPF measures sunscreen protection factor from UVB rays, the kind that cause

sunburn and contribute to skin cancer. To measure the SPF provided by sunscreens

you must first find your MED. This amount can then be timed by the SPF rating. For

example, if your MED was 10 minutes, and you applied a SPF30 sunscreen, you have

300 minutes (5 hours) protection until MED is reached. In knowing this, it is

recommended to reapply every two hours, or according to the directions on the

bottle.

Fitzpatrick skin types

Assessment of a client’s skin type is most important when selecting the initial

treatment, equipment and products. To help identify skin types, some classification

systems have been developed and adapted. Some include eye colour, tanning

habits, skin colour, etc.

55


The Fitzpatrick classification system was developed by Dr. Thomas Fitzpatrick of

Harvard Medical School in 1975. He developed the chart to help estimate people’s

skin tolerance to UV light and work out their potential risk for skin cancer. Ranging

from skin type I (1) to skin type VI (6), it was later used as a tool to determine skin

colour for beauty treatments and now laser/intense pulsed light treatments.

FITZPATRICK SKIN TYPE

SKIN APPEARANCE PHYSCIAL

CHARACTERISTICS I

Very white coloured skin

that always burns as it has

almost zero natural

melanin. This skin type

never tans and is

extremely sun sensitive.

Red-haired, natural

blonde, freckles, (Irish,

Scottish, Celtic, Northern

European) or very fair hair,

fair skin

II

White to pink coloured

skin. This skin has little

melanin and results in skin

burning and premature

aging. Skin type II burns,

sometimes tans and can

be sun sensitive

Fair haired, fair skinned,

blue-eyed, Caucasian

(with variations)

III

Slight olive / tan coloured

skin. It has a moderate

amount of melanin

present. Still able to burn,

but can tan easily.

Medium skin and hair

colour, eye colour varies,

oriental and Asian

background, also many

Europeans fall into this

category.

IV

Tan to brown coloured

skin with minimal natural

freckles. Rarely burns and

tans well. This skin type

has a tendency to hyper

pigment, appearing in

medium to dark patches

Dark skin and hair colour –

Mediterranean, islander,

lighter Indian and some

Asian.

V - VI

Dark brown to almost

black coloured skin. This

skin has a lot of natural

melanin providing a

screen against UV rays. It

never burns and tans

extremely well.

African, Indian, Middle

Eastern, some Hispanic and

Indigenous Australians.

56


Assessing skin types

Clients should always complete a consultation form which includes the Fitzpatrick

Skin Type Chart for self-assessment. It is important though for the practitioner to

further assess and question the client. When using the Fitzpatrick classification, the

emphasis should be on the ‘burn’ response of the client rather than their ability to

tan.

Function, formation and behaviour of major skin chemicals

Two major classes of organic chemicals dominate the skin surface:

Proteins and their associated products

Lipids and their associated products

Cosmetic manufacturers often attempt to replicate the useful effects of some of

these skin chemicals by incorporating them or their substitutes into their skin care

products.

Complex fatty acids

Fatty acids are a component of fats (triglycerides) where they are combined with

glycerine. Fats serve as the body's energy reserve and as a biochemical element.

Free fatty acids are an important component of both the skin barrier and the acid

layer of the skin. Fatty acids include compounds such as glycerides (humectant),

sterols (lubricant), and phospholipids (moisturiser).

They are used in cosmetics as emollients, thickening agents and cleansing agents.

Fatty acids are natural components of skin and are components of a complex

mixture that makes up the outermost layer that protects the body against oxidative

damage.

Fatty acids can help supplement the skin’s intercellular matrix (material that is

between cells) and plays a major role in the skins Natural moisturizing factor (NMF).

Complex lipids

Phospholipids - Phospholipids are important molecules that provide structure and

protection to cells. Phospholipids consist of a hydrophilic (or 'water loving') head and

a hydrophobic (or 'water fearing') tail. Phospholipids like to line up and arrange

themselves into two parallel layers, called a phospholipid bilayer. This layer makes up

your cell membranes and is critical to a cell's ability to function.

Since lipids do not get broken down by water, the bilayer provides a barrier around

the cell and only lets in certain molecules. Some small molecules, like carbon dioxide

and oxygen, pass through the phospholipid bilayer quite easily. This is good because

these gases are involved in the cells ability to reproduce, which is how your body

makes energy from the food you eat.

Sphingolipids - Sphingolipids are complex, long chain lipids (fats) that function as

skin-repairing and conditioning ingredients. An example of a sphingolipid is

ceramides. Found throughout cells in the human body, sphingolipids have cell-

57


communicating ability due to their innate involvement in protecting the skin from

outside harm. They are considered critical to the maintenance and repair of skin's

barrier function.

Glycosaminoglycans

Glycosaminoglycans are the fillers and water-binding substances between the fibres

of the dermis and natural protein fibres collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. Also

known as GAGs, they are used in cosmetics as they replicate the natural production

in the skin, such as fibroblast and bind or attract water.

Lipids

The range of chemicals grouped as lipids is large and complex. They are all

characterised by being insoluble in water but soluble in other solvents such as

chloroform. Lipids are capable of mixing with water providing a third type of

chemical is involved - a surface active agent, also known as a surfactant. This can

be a chemical such as soap or detergent which can bind water and lipids as one.

Lipids can be broken into two categories:

Saponifiable – the oil can be broken down and into a soap substance by alkali. Both

phospholipids and sphingolipids are saponifyable,

Non-saponifiable – the oil cannot be broken down at all by alkali. Non-saponifiable

lipids are the basis of many body chemicals such as cortisone, vitamin D,

testosterone and progesterone.

Proteins

Proteins are the important building blocks of all living tissue and their function. Amino

acids make up these long, organic protein chains in the skin and help to make

collagen, elastin and keratin. There are two classifications to proteins:

1. Soluble – they contain amino acids that interact and dissolve with water,

hydrophilic. They can be found inside a cell or in blood and other bodily

58


fluids. Enzymes are also soluble proteins. These are what you will find in

cosmetic products to promote cell reproduction and desquamation. For

example, papain (natural enzyme in papaya) once applied to the skin breaks

down the proteins and keratin to encourage natural exfoliation.

2. Insoluble – these are the opposite. They’re unable to interact or dissolve in

water, hydrophobic. These are strong and fibrous proteins such as collagen,

elastin and keratin and as we know, these three proteins allow for strength

and stability within the skin, providing a youthful appearance.

59


Interdependence of body systems and their relationship to a healthy body

and skin

The facial skeleton serves to protect the brain; house and protect the sense organs

of smell, sight, and taste; and provide a frame on which the soft tissues (muscles) of

the face can act to facilitate eating, facial expression, breathing, and speech.

There are 14 major bones of the face and skull, the primary bones being the

mandible, maxilla, frontal bone, nasal bones, and zygoma. Facial bone anatomy is

complex, yet elegant, in its suitability to serve a multitude of functions.

Its functions are:

Support – the skeleton, which consists mainly of bone tissue, forms a

supportive framework, giving shape and rigidity to the body.

Locomotion – the bone tissue forms a system of levers to which the voluntary

muscles are attached.

Protection – it serves to protect the soft and delicate organs of the body.

Manufactures blood cells – red blood cells are manufactured in the red bone

marrow, which is situated in the spongy tissue at the ends of long bones.

Mineral store – bones act as a reservoir of some minerals for the body.

60


61


The muscular system is the second part of the systems that provide the face with

support and movement. It is of interest to the beauty therapist because this is the

system that is benefited by massage.

The body has three types of muscles:

cardiac muscles, found only in the heart, power the action that pumps blood

throughout the body

smooth muscles surround or are part of the internal organs. Both cardiac and

smooth muscles are called involuntary muscles, because they cannot be

consciously controlled

skeletal muscles carry out voluntary movements

All in all, your face has about 43 skeletal muscles in it, working hand-in-hand to co-

ordinate the face. All of these muscles are used for things like:

chewing

talking

facial expressions

seeing

Within and wrapping around the neck, these muscles help support and move your

head and neck, additionally aiding side-to-side, forwards and back movement and

maintaining posture. Front on, these muscles aid those situated in the face and

moving the jaw.

Position and action of superficial muscles in the face, throat and chest

There are over forty (40) muscles in the face alone. These muscles are utilised to

smile, frown, express emotion and complete simple tasks such as blinking, chewing

and sneezing.

MUSCLE ACTION

Temporalis Draws from the temple down to the jaw, raising the lower

jaw. This muscle helps with chewing.

Procerus

Spans from the top of the nose and between the eyes.

This muscle depresses the eyebrow and causes wrinkles

across the bridge of the nose.

Nasalis Lies immediately below the procerus, across the bridge

of the nose. Compresses the nasal openings.

Masseter

Draws from the cheekbone down to the jaw. Aiding the

temporalis, this muscle raises the jaw and helps with

chewing.

62


Risorius

Spans from the corner of the mouth, across the cheek.

This muscle draws the corners of the mouth out and back

– creating a grin or smile!

Platysma

Covers the lower jaw and front of the neck. This muscle

helps draw down the (mandible) jaw bone and lower lip

and wrinkles the skin of the neck.

Corrugator

Found at the inside corner of each eyebrow. An

‘expression’ muscle, it draws the eyebrows together

causing vertical furrows

Orbicularis oculi Appears around each eye. Closes the eyes tightly and

aid blinking.

Zygomatic minor

Draws diagonal from the zygomatic bone to the upper

lip. Works with the zygomatic major to raise the lips for

laughing.

Zygomatic major

Draws diagonal from the zygomatic bone to the upper

lip. Works with the zygomatic minor to raise the lips for

laughing.

Orbicularis oris

Appears around the mouth. This muscle causes the

mouth and lips to wrinkle. Also puckers the lips as in

kissing.

Depressor labii Lies from the lower lip to the chin. This muscle pulls the

lower lip down and to one side.

Mentalis Spans over the chin. The mentalis pushes the lower up

causing the chin to wrinkle.

Sternocleidomastoid

Appears on both sides of the neck and draws from the

ear to the clavicle and sternum. Together they flex the

neck, and each side alone bends the head sideways.

Trapezius

This muscle predominantly over the back covering all

thoracic vertebrae. This muscle then tapers towards and

over the shoulder. This major muscle elevates and braces

the shoulder as well as rotates the scapula.

Pectoralis

Lies across the upper chest from the ribs to the humerus

(upper arm). This muscle adducts and rotates the arm

inwards

63


64


Nervous system and its relationship to skin sensations

Nervous tissue is found in the brain, spinal cord, and nerves. It rapidly responds to

stimulus and integrates the activities of the different parts of the body. It can do this

because it has more developed excitability and conductivity than other tissue types.

Nervous tissue is composed of:

nerve cells or neurons, which are the conducting cells of the system

neuroglia or glial cells, which are supporting, connecting and protective cells

Neurons are cells which specialise in the properties of irritability and conductivity.

Irritability is the ability to respond to stimulation by a change in structure and activity

at the point of stimulation.

Within the skin our sensory receptors lie in the epidermis and dermis. Identifying and

responding to temperature, pain, pressure, tickle, light touch and vibration. This

message then travels via the CNS (central nervous system) to the brain, instantly

responding via movement or change.

Skin as a sense organ and relationship to each device used

Types of stimuli that the skin responds to are:

hot

cold

pressure/touch

vibration/touch

pain

These stimuli are applied to the skin in a range of beauty treatments. For example

hot stimuli are applied in hydrotherapy spa treatments, pressure or touch is applied

as part of facial and body massages while pain stimuli may result from hair removal

treatments, such as waxing.

Stimuli and skin receptors

The skin is our interface with the external world. It is through the skin that we make

contact with and interpret what is happening around us. The skin does not and

cannot respond to every kind of external stimulus but to a selected range of stimuli

that seem to provide us with adequate information about the world. The inputs allow

us to learn, manipulate, avoid or seek further stimuli. The systems involved are very

complex.

In general they involve:

1. Some types of specialised receptor organs

2. Conducting Pathways of sensory nerves to the central nervous system (CNS).

These may be myelinated or unmyelinated. Myelin is a fatty substance that

covers some parts of the nerve fibre

3. The Central Nervous System (CNS) – segments of the brain and the spinal

cord.

65


Systems and pathways of

sensory and motor neuronal

conduction

The basic units of the nervous

system are called neurons.

Neurons are too small to be

seen without a microscope.

They are the mechanical

means by which your thoughts,

movements and responses to

everyday living are controlled

and monitored. Neurons carry

messages from part of the

body to another in the form of

impulses.

The impulse that travels along a neuron is like a tiny electrical charge. The impulses

travel quickly – in fact, an impulse could cover the length of a football field in less

than one second. As an impulse arrives at the end of an axon, it is passed across the

synapse gap to a dendrite by neurotransmitters. These are chemicals found naturally

in the body located in the synapse that help in the transmission of impulses from

neuron to neuron.

Within beauty treatments, we are predominantly looking at two (2) different types of

neurons:

Sensory (afferent) neurons: detect changes in the environment, from both inside and

outside of the body. They carry nerve impulses from the sense organs, skin, muscles

and internal organs to the spinal cord or brain. As an example, when you touch

something cold, the cold-sensing neurons send this message to your brain.

Motor (efferent) neurons: carry a response from the interneurons to the muscles,

glands and internal organs of the body. Every muscular body movement is

controlled by messages carried by motor neurons to the muscles.

Types of receptors

There are many types of specialised skin receptors. The exact function and activity

of them is at best uncertain. Different parts of the body are sometimes endowed

with collections of special receptors. For example: the tips of the fingers have dense

collections of particular touch and pressure receptors. The back is relatively poor in

these receptors.

66


SENSE ORGAN RESPONSE STRUCTURE OF THE SKIN

Merkle cells Constant pressure Basale layer, epidermis

Paccinian corpuscles Deep pressure and

vibration Deep dermis

Kraus receptors Cold Dermis

Ruffini organs Varied temperature Dermis

Meissner corpuscles Light touch Dermis

Free nerve endings Pain Superficial dermis

Variations in sensory perception and their significance to facials

The interpretation of stimuli depends on:

intensity and frequency; for example the intensity of pressure applied during a

body massage or the intensity of an electrical current used in a facial or hair

removal treatment

type and number of sensory fibres; for example in a hair removal treatment

which involves the dermis, pain receptors found here will provide the stimuli

duration and habituation (or how used you are to the stimulation)

areas covered by sensory nerves

brain pathways utilized and activated

Lymphatic, digestive, respiratory, and circulatory systems and their relationship to

skin functions, thermoregulation and homeostasis

The cardiovascular system is the main circulatory

system. It is composed of blood tissue that

transports respiratory gases and nutrients around

the body. It is moved through a closed circuit by

the pumping action of the heart. Its function is

to:

transport oxygen, nutritive materials and

water to the cells

transport carbon dioxide and other waste

products to the organs of excretion

regulate and coordinate the body

through the distribution of hormones from

the endocrine system to the cells they

influence

regulate water and other substances in

the body

regulate body temperature

67


maintain the constancy of the internal environment of the body

protect through the action of white blood cells and through the production

and transportation of antibodies

The lymphatic system is the body’s secondary system of circulation. Throughout the

body, plasma-like fluid called lymph fills the spaces between the cells. The lymphatic

system collects this lymph and carries it to the bloodstream. The system functions as

one of the body’s major defences against infection. Also, lymphatic capillaries pick

up nutrients and filter wastes that cannot be absorbed by blood capillaries.

Functions of the lymphatic system:

Maintenance of fluid balance in the body

Immunity

Shares some of the functions of the

cardiovascular system

Collection of materials from the tissue fluid and

returns it to the blood

Filtration of lymph by the lymph nodes which

help prevent the spread of infection

Absorption of fats from the digestive system

through the lymph capillaries of the intestinal

tract

Every tissue in the body requires oxygen to survive.

The respiratory system, which includes air passages,

pulmonary vessels, the lungs, and breathing muscles,

aids the body in the exchange of gases between the

air and blood, and between the blood and the

body’s billions of cells. Most of the organs of the

respiratory system help to distribute air.

The main functions of the digestive system are the breakdown of food into simpler

substances, and the absorption of these substances into your bloodstream. The

digestive system also eliminates the wastes that are left after the nutrients in food

have been absorbed. Digestion is the process by which the body breaks down

carbohydrates, proteins and fats into substances the cells can absorb and use. There

are two types of digestion, mechanical and chemical. Mechanical digestion is

chewing and breaking food particles into smaller pieces. Chemical digestion occurs

when food is changed into simpler substances, mainly through the action of

enzymes. Enzymes are proteins that cause a quick chemical breakdown of complex

food substances into simple ones. Absorption is the process by which nutrients from

digested food move into the bloodstream. Elimination is the process by which the

body gets rid of waste material remaining in the intestine after absorption has

occurred. The process ends in the body releasing solid waste from the body through

the anus.

68


Endocrine and reproductive systems in relationship to hormonal influences on skin

This system provides communication, control and integration to the functions of the

body. It is a collection of glands that produce hormones that regulate the body’s

growth, metabolism, and sexual development and function. It plays a very

important role in development and health by communicating with and controlling

other functions.

All the organs of the endocrine system are glands but not all glands in the body are

endocrine glands. The other types of gland are exocrine glands, which include

sweat, salivary, and sebaceous glands. Major organs are reproductive systems of

men and women, and additionally the thyroid, pituitary and hypothalamus.

Normal hormone function is vital to the healthy survival of the individual both

internally and topically. They are the main regulators of development and growth,

reproduction and many other body functions and also play a role in maintaining

homeostasis. There are many diseases, which can affect the endocrine glands.

Sometimes these abnormalities can release too much hormone (hypersecretion) or

too little hormone (hypo secretion).

Age related changes

There are two biological changes that occur due to the endocrine system:

Puberty – occurring at different times and ages (generally between ages 11 –

19) the pituitary and hypothalamus glands in the brain start sending out new

hormones that trigger the changes. These include physical, hormonal, and

sexual, inclusive of becoming capable of reproduction. For women, this

process is also responsible for the initiation of the menstrual cycle.

Menopause – is the process of ovulation and menstruation ceasing and the

production of the hormones oestrogen and progesterone drops considerably.

This occurs only in women from ages 48 – 55.

Pregnancy can also be considered a voluntary biological change, the fertilisation of

the female egg and male sperm, developing from embryo to foetus to new born.

Effect of hormones on skin

There are numerous effects the skin will encounter throughout one’s life, both

externally and internally. Those that the body self-regulates can be hard to diagnose

and treat; yet having a current understanding of the hormonal effects the skin relays

can be vital to prevention, recommendation and treatment.

Hair growth and loss

Menstrual cycle skin changes

Pigmentation

Sebaceous and sweat gland secretion

69


The above effects can be seen through major hormones produced in the body.

Specifically these hormones include oestrogen, testosterone, thyroxine and

tyrosinase.

Oestrogen – Is the major hormone produced within the ovaries of a female and in all

is what keeps our skin youthful and young. Increased through puberty and abundant

throughout pregnancy it plays a major role, not only in systemic development but

within the skin. Oestrogens affect skin thickness, wrinkle formation and skin moisture.

Oestrogens can increase glycosaminoglycan’s (GAGs), such as Hyaluronic Acid, to

maintain fluid balance and structural integrity. They can also increase collagen

production in the skin, where they maintain epidermal thickness and allow skin to

remain plump, hydrated and ‘wrinkle-free’.

As well as the above ‘pros’ of oestrogen there can be additional side effects. When

oestrogen is at its peak, for example pregnancy or contraceptive intake, the skin

can become sun-sensitive and produce hyperpigmentation on certain parts of the

skin, known as melisma and commonly seen over the forehead and cheeks.

Furthermore the role of oestrogen and the hair growth pattern are impacted. At

times hair growth can excel, producing stronger, darker and additional growth

areas.

In summary:

Increases the rate of cell turnover in the basal layer of the epidermis

Reduces the size and activity of the sebaceous glands

Keeps sebaceous secretion thin and less fatty

Slows the rate of hair growth

Increases the action of the enzyme hyaluronidase, which produces

hyaluronic acid

Keeps the skin metabolically active

It also appears to stimulate fibroblast activity however study is continuing into

this area. (Fibroblasts contain oestrogen and produce hyaluronic acid.

70


Testosterone – predominantly found in men, this hormone is what makes a boy a

man. This means course, thick, dark hair, as well as thicker and oilier skin. Also

recognised as ‘androgens’ females hold a delicate balance of androgens and

oestrogen, and when an imbalance occurs or is one hormone heavy, different traits

can replay on the skin. Testosterone is involved in skin sebum production; females

may experience increased oiliness or even adult acne during menstruation or

menopause.

In summary:

Increase the rate of cell turnover in the basal layer of the epidermis

Increase the size and activity of the sebaceous glands

Increase collagen production through the stimulation of fibroblast cells to

produce the proteins needed for collagen synthesis

Increase hair growth

Thyroxine & Tyrosinase - balance is key when it comes to these hormones. Too

much, and skin can become warm, sweaty and flushed. Too little, and skin becomes

dry, coarse, thick and even sweating is decreased. Thyroid dysfunction can also

lead to thinning hair and eventual hair loss.

71


SECTION 2 – DESIGN AND RECOMMEND SPECIALISED FACIAL

TREATMENTS

Appearance and characteristics of skin types

Information on the skin type is essential in order to recommend the appropriate

formulations of skincare and associated products to suit the client’s requirements.

Skin can be diagnosed to contain both a ‘type and condition’. This is identified by

examining the client’s skin. Before you do this, wash your hands thoroughly or sanitise

them with alcohol and dry with a paper towel or tissue. It is important to allow the

client to see that sanitary practices are being observed so that they feel confident

that hygiene procedures are being followed.

Skin type: You are born with; it will only change with age.

There are many factors that can affect skin function and appearance, these

include:

climate and changes in weather

exposure to the sun

cosmetics

moisturisers, cleansers and other skin care products

emotion and stress

hormonal cycles, including menstruation and menopause

medical conditions

pregnancy

overall health

There are three ways to identify skin type and condition:

1. Initial observation

2. Visual analysis

3. Analysis by touch

1. SKIN SCANNER 2. WOODS LAMP 3. MAGGI LAMP

72


Analysis equipment

1. Has a built in mirror enabling the client to visualise what is happening

underneath the skin. Depending on the brand, some can take a photo

providing good measure to track skin treatment results.

2. This is a hand held ultraviolet lamp that is used in a dark room. The light is

shone on the client’s skin and the different conditions will ‘fluoresce’ in

different colours. For example, orange spots represent sebum (oil) secretion.

3. A round lamp with magnifying glass in the centre. The lamp maybe clamped

to the trolley or be free standing. Either way you place it over the area of the

skin you want to analyse. The light and the magnifying glass make it easy to

see the skin clearly. The bulbs on some lamps get hot so you need to ensure

that the bulb does not touch the client’s skin. The light is bright so cover the

client’s eyes with damp cotton wool squares as you complete the analysis.

SKIN TYPE DESCRIPTION

Normal

Normal skin has a good oil/water balance. The

pores are normal size and the skin is usually free

of blemishes. If you can see the pore size change

from medium to smaller just on the edge of the T-

zone by the nose, measuring outward from the

center of the face, this is a normal skin type.

Maintenance and preventative care is the goal

for this skin type.

Characteristics of normal skin:

• even in colour

• clear complexion

• sebum and moisture levels balanced

• epidermis has even thickness

• no enlarged follicles

• good elasticity

73


Oily

Oily skin is characterized by excess sebum (oil)

production. The pore size is larger and contains

more oil. If the pore size is large over most of the

face, this indicates an oily skin type. Oily skin

requires more cleansing and exfoliating than

other skins and is prone to blemishes because the

pores often get clogged with sebum and dead

skin build up. This can make the skin appear

thicker and very shiny.

Characteristics of oily skin include:

• thick epidermis, coarse texture

• open follicles, particularly on the T-zone

(forehead, nose and chin)

• comedones and pustules are often present

• shiny in appearance

• oily to touch

• increased sebaceous secretion

• more resistant to wrinkles

• can be dehydrated

• make-up can change in colour due to

increased acidity of the skin

Dry

Dry skin does not produce enough oil (lipids). The

pores are generally very small and the sebum

production is minimal. If you can barely see the

pores or they are small, this indicates a dry skin

type.

Characteristics of dry (lack of oil) skin:

• scaly or flaky appearance

• follicles are small and mostly not visible

• insufficient sebaceous secretion

• ages faster

• thin epidermis/fine texture

• fine lines appear around eyes and mouth

prematurely

• shows tiny surface wrinkles that disappear

when moisturiser is applied

• can be sensitive

• can have dilated capillaries

• has roughened or reddish patches

• feels itchy

• feels tight

74


Combination

Combination skin can be both oily and dry at the

same time. The T-zone through the middle of the

face (forehead, nose and chin) is oiler. This area

has more sebaceous glands and larger pores.

The outer areas of the face can be dry and

appear flakey. From the center of the face, if

you can see the pore size change from larger to

medium/small just outside the T-zone on the

cheeks next to the nose, this is a combination skin

type.

Characteristics of combination skin:

• normal cheeks, eye area and the throat

• excessive oil on the T-zone

• affected by climatic conditions

• prone to comedones, pustules (acne)

• shiny appearance in the T-zone

• oily to touch

• imbalance in sebaceous secretions

• coarse texture

• can be dehydrated

Appearance, genetic factors, possible medical treatments and limitations of

facial treatments on skin conditions, diseases and disorders

Skin type and the Fitzpatrick Phototype are hereditary; you cannot change them

and treatment and product recommendations are designed to assist the skin to

perform optimally. The condition of the skin however, is often a direct result of

external environmental factors and internal factors. You are able to apply

treatments and products to cause a real change in some conditions of the skin. For

example, exfoliation and extractions will assist in the removal of closed and open

comedones.

Skin conditions have been grouped below according to the appearance. When

you do a skin analysis you should record on the client card any of these conditions

that appear on the client’s skin.

Skin condition: Can come and go, also can change throughout one’s life

depending of lifestyle factors and environmental impact.

1. Prematurely aged

2. Vascular / Diffused red

3. Seborrhoea

4. Acne

75


Prematurely aged

Normal aging classifies that of our biological clock, something we cannot prevent.

Premature ageing and photo-ageing relates to changes promoted by exposure to

sunlight and UV rays. Both normal ageing and photo-ageing involve changes over

time; therefore they share some outcomes. However, many features are very

different. The distinction between normally aged and photo-aged skin is confused

because most people, depending on the level of sun exposure, experience degrees

of both.

NORMAL AGING PHOTO-AGING

smooth, unblemished

some deepening of wrinkles

some loss of elasticity

epidermis is thinner

fewer cells participate in mitosis

cells are generally regular

dermis is thinner

elastin is thicker and cross-linked

collagen bundles heavily

GAGs (specifically Hyaluronic

Acid) overall decreases

Hypo cellular activity

leathery, blotchy

quite extensive deep wrinkling

quite significant loss of elasticity

Epidermis is thicker

more cells participate in mitosis

cells can grow irregular

Dermis becomes thicker

elastin is in thick, tangled,

disorganised lumps

decrease in bundles and fibres of

elastin

GAGs: large increase; change in

‘gel’ thickness

Hyper cellular

Theories about ageing

There are many theories to try and decipher the changes as we degenerate and

age. Some base this on facts; others base it on experience and appearance. As

beauty therapists we recognise three (3) prominent theories:

76


1. Genetic / Biological clock

This theory states that our DNA determines the maximum lifespan of our cells; it only

has so many times it can divide and multiply. Consequently slowing the

preproduction of all living tissue in the body.

2. Free radical

This theory argues that there is an environmental cause of ageing as opposed to an

internal or genetic cause. The major difference between this theory and the genetic

theory is that there is no fixed lifespan and cells are incapable of remaining healthy.

Some free radicals, such as unsaturated fatty acids are produced in the body as an

internal response, others are produced by environmental factors such as light,

radiation, smoking and pollutants. A major defence against free radicals are anti-

oxidants.

3. Immunological response

The immune system fights disease by recognising and removing or destroying foreign

substances and damaged or cancerous cells.

In the aged, the immune function decreases. The ability of the immune system to

recognise any abnormal cells or foreign substances in the body is reduced;

therefore, the aged suffer a high incidence of cancer, infectious disease and

degenerative auto-immune disease

Vascular disorders

Conditions that affect the circulatory system

This skin exhibits a red colour which is due to the increase in blood circulation in the

skin. The irritation could be the result of physical irritants (environment and

uncontrollable) or may be a chemical sensitivity (product or topical, controllable).

Either way, the irritant needs to be eliminated or suitable product recommendations

made.

Diffused redness: is a general appearance of facial redness, such as rosy cheeks. This

condition is caused by dilated capillaries, resulting in an appearance of general

redness, not discrete, well-defined vessels. The most commonly affected areas are

the nose, forehead and cheeks. This condition needs to be protected and keep in a

calm and controllable state.

Seborrhoea or Seborrheic dermatitis

Is a very common skin condition. It is more common in men than women and is

worse in winter.

The eruption typically begins at puberty and continues through adult life. It is rare in

old age.

77


Cause: The cause of seborrheic dermatitis is unknown. It is found in genetically pre-

disposed individuals and occurs without obvious provoking factors. Nutrition,

hormones, emotional stress and infection appear to play important roles in the

occurrence and relapse of the condition. Overgrowth of the yeast pityrosporum

(lipophilic) occurs in the scales.

Appearance: The eruption is formed by yellowish or greyish sharply marginated

macules covered with greasy scales. Lesions may group to form irregular patches.

Advanced lesions may fissure or crust. The eruption is greater where there are more

sebaceous glands and is usually bilateral or symmetrical.

Acne / Blemished

Acne is a disease of the hair follicles.

The outer layer of the skin consists of many layers of skin cells, held together by glue like

substance. The cells move from the bottom up to the top where they shed as dead skin

cells. The cells of the hair follicle shed into the follicle and are a major course of

obstruction.

Every hair follicle has a gland attached that produces oil to lubricate the skin and hair.

People with acne usually produce more oil than those without acne.

The principal cause of acne is blockage of the opening of the follicles (pore) by

dead skin cells and oil.

Despite the obstruction the gland keeps producing oil causing the follicle to swell,

resulting in small cysts (comedones).

The oil gland can swell and rupture, releasing oil and skin cells into the dermis. This is

very irritating, causing an inflammatory reaction (redness and swelling).

The bacteria in the hair follicle create infection which causes the white top of

acne pustules.

There are four types of acne:

Grade 1: the least severe, consists of open and closed comedones with little or no

inflammation.

Grade 2: the most deceptive and stubborn consists or only closed comedones, no

inflammation. Difficult to treat as we have to work on opening the follicles, needs more

aggressive treatment

Grade 3: the most typical, consists of papules, pustules, nodules, open and closed

comedones; very inflamed and usually spreads over the entire face.

Grade 4: the most severe case of acne and includes all symptoms of grade 3 plus cystic

lesions which often lead to scarring. Generally needs other forms of treatment such as

antibiotics.

All the above grades can present in

mild

moderate

78


severe forms

Genetics of skin disorders

The skin is affected by numerous external factors, such as your environment or your

skin care routine. But from birth, your skin is affected by a more permanent factor

underneath the skin, your genes.

Genes which are made of DNA, determine all the different characteristics of a living

thing. They are the ‘blue print’ and ‘instruction guide’ as to what that cell needs to

do. Found in the nucleus of all cells, they do this by telling your cells how to make

proteins, which in turn affects all the structures and functions in your body.

It has been read that you can't have a gene for a certain disorder. ‘Genetic

disorders’ are caused by the mutation of a regular gene or cell, which keeps it from

giving instructions to proteins properly -- or at all. Commonly you will hear that

genetic skin disorders are all congenital, or present at birth. In truth, you can get

genetic disorders as your cells get older or if they're exposed to harmful free radicals.

Of course, they can also be passed down from one generation to the next, and

sometimes can be caused by a combination of both inheritance and environment.

Trans-epidermal water loss

Commonly known in industry as ‘TEWL’, it is the evaporation of water (moisture) via

the upper layers of skin.

T – Trans

E – Epidermal

W – Water

L – Loss

As the epidermis and dermis hold the most amount of water within the skin, TEWL

determines the level or percentage of hydration in its layers. As we know water plays

a major role in the skin, such as carrying nutrients, removing waster product, product

absorption and acting its part in the lamella substance found between the cells.

TEWL occurs via diffusion and evaporation of water into the surrounding

atmosphere. It can increase due to disruption to the skin barrier, for example:

wounds, scratches, burns

exposure to solvents or surfactants and extreme dryness

humidity, temperature and season

moisture content of the skin (hydration level)

We lose the greatest amount of water through our palms, soles of our feet, backs of

our hands, and forehead. TEWL is a continual process that we have little control

over, and consequently can cause certain skin conditions such as dehydration.

79


Absorption and relationship to skin treatments and products

Even though the skin acts as a barrier, to some extent it allows the passage of

certain chemicals and products. Percutaneous absorption is the passage of

substances into and through the skin to the dermis and blood system.

Many products are designed to work superficially on the skin and not enter the tissue

or fluid, so they must take route in which that chemical may be absorbed, these are

known as absorption pathways.

There are three (3) different processes:

1. Diffusion – the passage or movement of a chemical within a substrate (usually

the solvent).

2. Absorption – the invasion of the

chemical into various layers of the

skin.

3. Adsorption – the attachment of

chemicals to the components of

the skin

The possible absorption pathways:

oil soluble chemicals can pass

down the hair follicles

water soluble chemicals can move

through micro-channels between

the lipid layers in the stratum

corneum

water soluble chemicals can pass down the sweat glands

oil soluble chemicals can diffuse through lipid bilayers of stratum corneum

water soluble chemicals can diffuse through the corneocytes and from one

corneocyte once topically exfoliated

80


It can be difficult to measure where each product reaches within the skin as the rate

of movement is dependent on a few variables such as size of the molecule, ability of

the molecule to interact with the skin, molecules ability to pass through the cell

membrane and the molecules ability to bind with receptor proteins on the cell

membrane. All are crucial elements of absorption.

TARGET SITE PRODUCT OR CHEMICAL

Stratum corneum

Soaps, sunscreens, insect repellents,

petrolatum

Occludent & emollients

Stratum spinosum Moisturisers, keratolytics (skin thinning)

Sweat ducts Antiperspirant

Living skin cells Steroids, local anaesthetics, retinoid

Stratum basale Cytostatic agents (Cytostatic means toxic to

the cells)

Formulation, function and action of cosmetic formulations and ingredients in

treatment products, effects and benefits to skin, potential adverse effects and

those contraindicated for specific clients

An emulsion is a mixture of water, oil and a surfactant substance (generally liquids)

that normally would be unable to mix. Emulsions are used in numerous cosmetic

products used within beauty services and it is here we look at the formulation.

There are two bases of an emulsion:

1. Water in oil (oil based)

2. Oil in water (water based)

Water in oil emulsions:

Small amounts of water

Up to 80% oil

Heavier, greasier and more water resistant

Cleaning creams, night creams, massage creams

81


Good for dry, mature, premature skin types and conditions

Oil in water emulsions:

Large amounts of water

Up to 35% oil

Are often milky, free flowing liquids.

Cleansing lotions and moisturising lotions

Good for oily, acne, dehydrated skin types and conditions

Surfactants:

Surfactants stands for “surface active agent”

They are used to combine (break up) oil and water

They are both hydrophilic (water loving) and lipophilic (oil loving)

Magnetising each to make an emulsion

From the point when an emulsion is formulated, additional ingredients and

components are added to create a product such as a moisturiser, cleanser,

exfoliant, mask and sunscreen. Utilising the formula they have been created under, it

will be designed to stay on the skin surface (emollient or occludent) or be absorbed

further into the layers of the epidermis or dermis (humectants or moisturiser).

An Emollient is any substance which covers and seals the skin and in doing so

reduces moisture loss. Ingredients include liquid paraffin, petroleum jelly, lipids,

alcohols, aloe vera, oleic acid, liquid silicone, clays and muds.

Occludents act by lubricating and occluding (sealing and covering) the skin with an

oily substance which prevents moisture loss. Ingredients include mineral oil,

petroleum jelly and lipids (fatty acids, lanolin, vitamin A & E, silicone).

Humectants act by attempting to hydrate it with externally applied water or water

absorbing agents. Ingredients include glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols, urea

and organic chemicals such as proteins, NMF and glycosaminoglycan’s.

The function of a moisturiser is to improve the skin’s texture and feel, if not its

appearance. Generally people want a moisturiser that is easier to apply, is quickly

absorbed and leaves the skin feeling soft but not greasy, shiny or sticky.

Generally a moisturiser can act as a ‘humectant or occludent’

Preservatives will generally always be added to an emulsion to prevent microbial

attack. This can include anti-oxidants like vitamin E and ascorbyl palmitate, to slow

down the decomposition of the product or specialised preservative such as

phenoxyethanol, benzoic acid and parabens.

82


COSMETIC INGREDIENT FUNCTION & ACTION

Oils

Isopropyl palmitate A thickening agent used in cosmetics. Due to its

less greasy feel it generally replaces mineral oils.

Liquid paraffin Colourless, odourless oily liquid obtained from

petroleum.

Castor oil a thick vegetable lipid oil used in lipsticks

Surfactants

Cetyl and stearyl alcohol Used for emulsifying and lubrication.

Stearic acid

Found naturally in vegetable fats, stearic acid

works as an emulsifier and thickening agent.

Commonly used in bar soaps.

Triethanolamine An emulsifier and pH adjuster.

Sodium lauryl sulphate

An emulsifier and versatile surfactant used in

cleansing and foaming products, for example

hand wash, shower foams and facial cleansers. It

can irritate sensitive skin and strip the skins natural

flora

Glycerol monostearate

Widely used, it functions as an emulsifier, stabiliser

and surface active agent. Derived from the soya

bean it has little to no irritation or toxicity.

Thickeners

Carboxymethyl cellulose Also known as cellulose gum, it is a non-

comedogenic raw material

Waxes

Beeswax One of the oldest and most commonly used

ingredients, beeswax

Carnauba

Used to firm and texturize cosmetic products. This

wax enables the skin to form a protective layer

and has a very low rate of causing allergic

reaction.

83


Candellia

Known as a ‘film former’ leaving a waxy residue on

the skin. This ingredient binds oils and waxes to give

body to a product.

Paraffin Pure paraffin is harmless to the skin and often used

as a beeswax substitute.

Effects and benefits of two comprehensive and professional skin care ranges

and their relationship to each device used

Throughout your career as a therapist, you will develop your knowledge and

understanding of specific and professional product ranges. It is vital to recognise:

Basic ingredients of individual products

Procedures and products required for different services

Time commitment required from the client

Storage and handling requirements for each product

Effect and uses of each product

Effect and purpose of each service

When to recommend each product and service

Features and benefits of each product and service

Correct sequence of products and services

84


SECTION 3 – PREPARE FOR SPECIALISED FACIAL TREATMENTS

Prepare service area

Before beginning any service,

ensure that the service area is

organised, arranged and

equipped to that you can

perform the treatment efficiently

and according to health

regulations and workplace

procedures.

Ideally, equipment, furniture, fittings and walls should be purpose built or purchased

specifically for the task to be performed. They should be durable, safe and suitable

for cleaning and maintenance, and constructed of sealed non porous material.

There should be adequate lighting and ventilation throughout the premises and

sufficient bench space for good working practices. After the client characteristics

have been assessed and a beauty treatment plan agreed upon, you will be able to

identify the products and any extra equipment that are required to perform the

treatment. Products and consumables will differ according to the brand of machine

used. Always refer to manufacturer’s instructions.

Prepare yourself

Your personal presentation is important because you are in the profession where you

are expected to act as a role model. Clients will expect a beauty operator’s

grooming and presentation to be of a high standard. As beauty operators work in

close proximity with clients, personal hygiene is a very important issue. Clients are

able to detect smells or body odour easily.

Most salons have a policy on uniforms. Some supply uniforms and others simply

expect the beauty therapist to be dressed in a specific way. The health regulations

in most States and Territories say that the operator (that is you) should wear clean

washable garments. These garments will protect you from contamination with blood

or body fluids and substances. Watches, wrist and finger jewellery should not be

worn when attending to clients because these items are a potential source of

infection. Hand jewellery should not be worn during skin penetration (this term

includes temporary hair removal) procedures as it may tear the gloves.

After recommending and discussing a treatment with the client, there are some final

preparation steps before the treatment begins.

Place the completed client record card in a safe place during treatment.

Ensure that the treatment bed is at the correct height for you to work at

comfortably.

85


The client will already be gowned and on the treatment bed. Position the

client comfortably.

All protective garments should be in place. Place a towel across the parts of

the body where treatment will not be performed for modesty, warmth and

protection from spillage.

Ensure that there is enough light in the cubicle and a magnifying light

available. When the light is turned on it should not cause discomfort by

shining directly into the client’s eyes.

Check again that the client is comfortable before beginning the treatment. A

pregnant client may need a pillow to place under the knees or lower back.

Make sure that the client is as comfortable as possible throughout the

treatment. Continually check the client’s comfort level and make

adjustments to suit the client’s needs where appropriate.

Wash your hands with an antibacterial hand wash.

Limitations of beauty therapist in relation to use of electrical equipment

Clients will be naturally wary of the use of electrical equipment and the application

of current. They will feel more at ease with a beauty therapist who looks professional

and has a calm, competent manner. You should be well organised and be able to

explain all aspects of the application and answer any of the client’s questions fully

and accurately. You should ensure that you are familiar with their client’s treatment

routine as set out in the treatment plan or select and sequence an appropriate

treatment routine as identified in the client treatment plan.

Whatever the choice of equipment, it is necessary for you to have a thorough

knowledge of its application and safe use. You must be aware of the danger that a

lack of knowledge and expertise can create. Before using a new piece of

equipment ensure that you follow the manufacturer’s safety instructions. The

guidelines listed below provide general information and must be followed in

combination with manufacturers’ instructions when using all electrical equipment in

the salon or learning environment.

A thorough knowledge of the application of the equipment to be used should

include:

type of current used

voltage (high or low)

recommended maximum current intensity

selected client intensity

recommended application time

selected application time

As a therapist operating electrical machinery, acknowledge your limitations when it

comes to contraindications. In cases where electrical current runs through yourself

as a conductor, you must ensure you are not contraindicated as this can result in an

adverse effect or lack of response on the client.

86


SECTION 4 – CLEANSE SKIN USING ULTRASONIC OR DIRECT

CURRENT

The specialised machinery will be determined after consultation. Identifying the

client objectives and selecting a safe and effective service.

Client consultation, consent and initial treatment plan

Eye cleanse

Performed with eye make-up remover on cotton pad

Lip cleanser

Performed with eye make-up remover on cotton pad

Perform First cleanse, or superficial cleanse

Using a milk, lotion or cream cleanser, warm the product in your hands,

starting at the chin, spread the cleanser over the chin, cheeks, nose and

forehead, perform small circles over the face then finish by sliding down the

neck onto the décolletage and perform larger circles. At this point ask the

question: “what are you currently using on your skin” refer back to the client’s

consultation if needed.

Remove first cleanse

Using warm, damp fibrella, remove

cleanser from décolletage to forehead,

in long sweeping movements. Blot the

skin dry.

Perform skin analysis

Place damp cotton rounds over the

clients eyes.

LOOK, TOUCH, ASK – utilise the woods lamp and magi lamp. Start a discussion

with your client, use open and closed questions. Relate the questions to the

client’s main concern e.g. duration, appearance and feel.

Adjust the treatment plan if necessary and explain your planned treatment to

the client, you are then able to get all of the remaining treatment products.

Let your client know you are leaving the treatment area.

Perform Second cleanse, or deep cleanse *Turn steamer on to warm up

Warm the chosen products in your hands, starting at the chin, spread the

cleanser over the chin, cheeks, nose and forehead, perform small circles over

the face then finish by sliding down the neck onto the décolletage and

perform larger circles.

At this point you can include the chosen ultrasonic or direct current cleansing

modality, following manufactures instruction.

Generic procedure for cleansing the eyes includes

1. Wash your hands, apply disposable gloves and secure the clients hair with a

disposable hair net and headband.

87


2. Dampen two (2) cotton round in warm water, then apply an oil-free eye

make-up remover

3. Gently press each cotton round into the eye area for a few seconds, focusing

on the lash line and eyelashes to infuse the remover.

4. Working on one eye at a time, support the eyebrow and eye tissue with your

non-dominant hand. With the dominant hand, sweep the cotton round down

and out. First along the eyelid, second along the lash line and thirdly

underneath the eye.

5. Continue this process until all make-up has been removed and area is clean

from any pollutants.

6. Throw the cotton round into the bin straight away.

7. Repeat this process on the second eye, until all make-up has been removed

and area is clean from any pollutants.

8. Blot dry with a tissue. Throw the tissue into the bin straight away.

Generic procedure for cleansing the lips includes

1. Dampen the fingertips of your dominant hand

2. Using a cleansing lotion or milk, apply a small amount to the middle and ring

finger of your dominant hand.

3. Supporting the skin around the mouth with the non-dominant hand, apply the

cleansing product in a figure eight motion. Ensure the full lip line is covered

4. Continue this process until all make-up has been removed and area is clean

from any pollutants

5. Dampen a cotton round in warm water and wrap around the middle and

ring finger of your dominant hand.

6. Still supporting the skin, use the cotton round to remove the cleanser in a

figure eight motion. Some sweeping movements from corner to corner can

be made to ensure all the cleanser has been removed from the lips.

7. Throw the cotton round into the bin straight away

8. Blot dry with a tissue. Throw the tissue into the bin straight away.

Generic procedure for cleansing the décolletage, neck, cheeks and forehead

includes

1. Dampen both hands in warm water

2. Apply the cleansing product to both hands, pressing between both to slightly

warm the product. (do not rub, the product is for the client’s skin, not the

therapist’s hands)

3. In sweeping motions, apply the cleanser to the décolletage, neck, cheeks

and forehead. Follow through on the last motion; slide your hands down,

returning to the décolletage.

4. Massage the surface of the décolletage using circular motions

5. Sliding up to the neck, perform sweeping movements from one side to the

other, from the collar bone to jaw line

6. On the last motion, slide your hands to the cheeks and perform large circular

motions

88


7. Sliding up each side of the nose, perform small circular motions using your ring

finger on each nostril. Focus on the nasolabial folds.

8. Finally, slide your hands onto the forehead. Perform sweeping movements

from one side to the other, from the eyebrow to the hair line. Then small

circular movements.

9. On the last motion, slide your hand down returning to the décolletage to

repeat this routine.

10. Once the routine has been performed twice, pressure off at the temples of

the client.

11. Dampen two (2) fibrella squares in hot water and wrap around the index,

middle and ring finger.

12. Starting from the décolletage, use sweeping movements from the centre

outward, to remove the cleansing product. Turn fibrella to a clean section as

you work.

13. Sliding up to the neck, perform sweeping movements from one side to the

other, from the collar bone to jaw line. Turn your fibrella to a clean section as

you work.

14. One the last motion, slide your hands to the cheeks and sweep from the

centre of the face outward. This will include the jaw, upper lip, nose and

cheeks.

15. Sliding up each side of the nose to the forehead, sweep from the centre of

the forehead outward. Pressure off at the temples of the client

16. Rinse the fibrella in hot water and repeat this routine.

17. Once the routine has been performed twice, blot dry with a tissue.

18. Throw the tissue into the bin straight away

89


Apply Ultrasonic /

Sonophoresis

1. Apply cleanser of choice,

turn machine POWER

on, press the CLEAN

button and using

spatula face down,

glide over skin for 5min

2. You can ADJUST the

strength of the sound

waves and you can

choose the PULSE

option for client’s

comfort

3. Press the PAUSE button

once finished cleansing

and remove excess

with clean fibrella

4. Apply vitamin serum to the face (one area at a time), press the LEAD IN

button, and using the flat side of the spatula, slide over face for 15min

5. Press the PAUSE button once finished

6. Massage remainder serum for 1-2 min

90


Apply Direct Current - Galvanic Desincrustation

1. Hand client the post electrode to hold securely. Ensure it is wrapped with

damp fibrella

2. Apply gauze and brush saline or ampule solution over the skin

3. Turn on machine

4. Check polarity is on negative

5. Apply roller electrode to skin

6. Turn current up to level that suits the client

7. Roll over face or affected area for 5 - 7 minutes (avoid eyes)

8. When finished turn current down

9. Take electrode off the skin

10. Remove the gauze and saline from the skin

11. Apply a thick, even layer of conductive gel

12. Check polarity is on positive


14. Roll over face or affected area for 2 - 3 minutes (avoiding the eyes)

15. When finished turn the intensity down

16. Remove the conductive gel

17. Turn machine off

18. Hot towel or fibrella the skin

Exfoliation

*Place steam on the client, follow steaming/ozone protocol*

Warm the chosen products in damp hands, starting at the chin, spread the exfoliant

over the chin, cheeks, nose and forehead, perform small circles over the face,

focusing on dry, congested, concern areas, then finish by sliding down the neck

onto the décolletage and perform larger circles.

Remove exfoliant

Using warm, damp fibrella, remove exfoliant from décolletage to forehead, in long

sweeping movements. Remove the steam/ozone & blot the skin dry

91


SECTION 5 – REMOVE MINOR SKIN BLEMISHES AND INFUSE SERUM

Extractions can be performed at this point

Ensure extractions are performed to state and territory health regulations according

to the Skin Penetration Act 2000.

You can extract:

Open comedone

Closed comedone

Milia

Milia

This is a hard pearly lump beneath the skin’s surface. It is formed by sebum blocked

in a follicle, which has sealed over. Smaller milia may reabsorb with regular massage

and the application of desincrustation techniques. However, well established milia

must be pierced with a sterile probe or lancet to provide an opening through which

they can be extracted to release the contents.

Open comedones

This solidified, trapped sebum blocking the follicle mouth needs to be softened

before extracting. Care must be taken when applying pressure to ensure the

contents are not pushed back down into the follicle, causing a pustule.

The pressure should be exerted to the sides, which will apply pressure at the follicle

base. Pressure is best applied with well-padded fingers, as extractors can bruise and

break the skin.

Closed comedones or whiteheads

These are sebum blockages, which just cause a bump on the skin’s surface. They are

not sealed over but are contained within a small follicle opening. They can be

extracted once softened and pierced with a lancet or sterile probe.

You cannot extract:

Active pustules

Cysts

1. Put on disposable gloves

2. Ensure the skin has been prepped, cleansed, exfoliated and steamed. This

allows the skin to soften and for blockages to be removed with minimal

discomfort.

3. Place damp cotton rounds over the eyes, and utilise the magi lamp.

4. With a cotton round, apply Chlorhexidine solution over the area to be

extracted.

5. Wrap a tissue around each index finger; this is used as a buffer to soften.

92


6. Keeping fingers parallel, slightly stretch the skin either side of the pore, then

push from underneath the site, wriggling your fingers in an upward motion.

The pore should push out the blockage.

– DO NOT USE NAILS

7. Wipe the blockage away from the pore, in the direction of hair growth.

8. If you are using a lancet, ensure it is single use, per client and disposed of

immediately after the treatment.

- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO EXTRACT MILIA WITHIN THE OCCULAR AREA

9. Stretch the skin with one hand, then, using the needle tip, slide into the side of

the milia. Ensure you’re not catching the living tissue, aim for the white area

above the skin. This pierces the milia. Perform normal extraction method once

the milia have been pierced.

Once finished all extractions, wipe over areas with saline solution and continue facial

treatment.

Great care should be taken when extracting around the eyes. Care should also be

taken when extractions are performed on the centre panel as infection can pass

into the blood supply. Pressure must always be very gentle and similar care should

be taken around the ear.

Large numbers of extractions should not be performed, especially before massage

as the massage movements can spread bacteria to other areas of the face. As a

general guide most clients can tolerate a maximum of 10 minutes of extractions. It is

better to make extractions part of an ongoing plan.

93


Apply Direct Current - Galvanic Iontophoresis

1. Hand client the post electrode to hold securely. Ensure it is wrapped with

damp fibrella

2. Apply a thick, even layer of conducting gel

3. Turn on the machine

4. Check polarity is on negative




8. Remove the conductive gel

9. Apply serum or ampule to skin

10. Apply a thick, even layer of conductive gel over the top of the serum

11. Check polarity is on positive




15. Take electrode off the skin


Perform facial massage

Facial massage will be performed for 10 minutes, the sequence is a selection of

various massage movements which stimulate and firm the skin while relaxing the

client. Focus on rhythm, pressure and smooth sequence of movements.

94


Apply High Frequency Indirect

Apply active cream and massage medium to clients face and décolletage.

1. Show client the electrode and the sound that it makes.

2. Turn off

3. Ask client to hold electrode with both hands, ensure it is wrapped with gauze.

4. Place you hand on their forehead

5. Turn machine on

6. Commence massage (20 minutes)

7. Do not remove your hands from the client unless the machine is off.

8. Do not use tapotement movements

9. To finish, turn machine down and off.

10. Remove your hands


Indirect facial massage

1. 6 x effleurage over chest, around shoulders and up to the occipital.

2. 6 x above but rotate twice on the deltoids (shoulders).

3. 6 x above but using knuckling

4. 6 x above but using thumb kneading into trapezius (fleshy part of shoulder) up

to the occipital.

5. 6 x above but using finger kneading into trapezius up to occipital.

6. Turn the clients hand and effleurage over the deltoid and up over the

sternocleidomastoid muscle, follow with the other- don't break contact. x 6 on

both sides

7. 3 x Face braces- interlock fingers over the chin/mouth then move up the nose

and interlock fingers over the forehead. Don't pull at the skin.

8. Stroke forehead slowly using the whole hand switching from hand to hand

going from the side to the center to the other side to the center.

9. Scissors on forehead- using the middle and ring finger of both hands do a

scissor motion going from the side to the center to the other side to the

center.

10. 6 x strokes along the eyebrow with the ring finger.

11. 6 x strokes along under the eye. Don't drag the skin.

12. 6 x half-moons on crow’s feet going in upwards direction

13. 6 x full eye circles with the ring and middle finger

14. Knuckling on cheeks.

15. knuckling on the mandible (chin/jawline)

16. 6 x face braces.

17. Repeat the first 5 movements

18. Finish with vibration in occipital area.

95


Remove massage medium

Using a hot towel to remove the massage medium from forehead to décolletage, in

long sweeping movements.

96


SECTION 6 – PROVIDE MICRO-

CURRENT TREATMENT

Apply Micro-current

1. Ensure the skin is entirely clean, if

there is any trace of oil on the

skin the modality will not work

2. Apply a thick, even layer of

conductive gel to the skin.

3. Turn machine on

4. Gently tap the electrodes together

to check it is working

5. Using both of the electrodes, begin

with the circulation movement all over the face, zig-zag movement.

6. Use both electrodes to perform slide movement on the specific muscle.

Both electrodes being in the middle and slide away from each other

down the length of the muscle.

7. Use both electrodes to perform glide movement on the specific muscle.

Either electrode will remain on the origin of the muscle whilst the other

electrode slowly glides down the length of the muscle towards the

insertion.

1. Use both electrodes to perform grab movement on the specific muscle.

Using both electrodes, work inwards to gently pinch the muscle together,

ensuring the electrodes do not touch. Hold each grab for 5 – 8 seconds.

8. Repeat the sequence of movements three times on each specific muscle.

9. Ensure you have performed the movements on the other side of the face

before completion.

10. Hot towel or fibrella face

97


SECTION 7 – COMPLETE TREATMENT

Apply mask

Apply mask from décolletage to forehead, in long sweeping movements and

according to manufactures instructions.

Remove mask

Use a hot towel to remove the mask from forehead to décolletage, in long

sweeping movements.

Apply High Frequency Direct

1. Put gauze over the working electrode and secure with rubber band

2. Turn on low; place your finger on the glass electrode.

3. Show client the electrode and the sound that it makes

4. Place your hand on the treatment area, then slide electrode onto the skin.

5. Remove your finger from the electrode

6. Circle and slide the electrode over face to reduce bacteria and dry out

excess oil, 3 – 5 minutes.

7. Spark any active acne

8. To remove, reduce current, place your hand on the treatment area and slide

electrode off.

9. Turn machine off


Apply treatment products

Serum – press the selected serum directly onto the clients skin

Eye cream – mix between the ring fingers and dot along the ocular bones,

smooth from inner corner of the eye, outwards.

Moisturiser - Warm the chosen product in your hands, starting at the chin,

spread the moisturiser over the chin, cheeks, nose and forehead, smooth

over, and then finish by sliding down the neck onto the décolletage.

SPF - Warm the chosen product in your hands and press onto the skin, starting

at the chin, cheeks, nose and forehead, smooth over entire face and neck.

Aftercare and homecare

At the completion of the facial treatment, therapists can provide client advice on:

What they can and cannot do 12 – 24 hours after a treatment

Realistic expectations

Recommend retail products

Correct use of homecare products

Additional advice on complimentary services, nutrition or health care

Recommendation of complimentary therapies

Rebooking sequence

98


SECTION 8 – REVIEW TREATMENT AND PROVIDE POST TREATMENT

ADVICE

Appearance and physiology of adverse reactions to specialised facial

treatments and products and appropriate remedial action

During the facial treatment, the skin may react to the products or techniques used.

This is referred to as an adverse reaction. For facials with electrical current, these

reactions may include the following:

Erythema (red, flushed skin) arising from skin care products or application of

electrical current.

Skin blemishes which may emerge after treatment due to massage

stimulation and application of electrical current.

Allergic reactions of the skin or body to treatments or products.

Adverse psychological reactions of clients who are anxious about treatments

where electrical current is being used.

Conditions which indicate client referral to a medical practitioner or other

professional

Galvanic burn, a chemical and an overheating reaction caused by an

inappropriate or careless use of the galvanic current

Lifestyle factors and benefits of lifestyle changes on skin

There are countless factors that can impact on the provision and outcomes of

beauty therapy treatments; they are that of the lifestyle habits of the client. An

insight into their lifestyle will assist in the planning of treatments by establishing how

much time will be available for salon treatments and how much time the client has

available for home care to supplement the salon treatments. Lifestyle knowledge

also informs after-care and home care and gives you an idea of where to put the

emphasis when advising clients.

Alcohol consumption deprives the body of its vitamin reserves, especially Vitamins B

and C, which are important in maintaining a healthy skin. Alcohol can also

dehydrate the body and therefore the skin.

Climate can affect sebum production and protection. It is the skin’s own natural oil

and helps to reduce evaporation of water from the tissues. However, if skin is

unprotected and over-exposed, evaporation from the epidermis will occur, causing

dry, dehydrated skin.

Exercise routine and physical activity not only helps to maintain weight and muscle

tone it can also improve sleeping patterns and general feelings of wellbeing.

Hobbies a client who engages in leisure activities, more those that are outdoors such

as bush walking or sailing may require more intensive skin treatments to prevent and

99


protect from any external threats to the skin (UV). Additionally leisure activities can

bring on psychological benefit of relaxation, de-stressing and inner peace.

Sleeping patterns a lack of sleep can cause the skin to look dull and puffy. This

especially occurs in the skin beneath the eyes, where dark circles can appear. Too

much sleep can have the same effect due to slow circulation.

Tobacco consumption and smoking interferes with cell respiration and slows down

circulation. This makes it harder for nutrients to reach the skin and for waste to be

removed. Cigarettes also have chemicals that destroy Vitamin C. This in turn

interferes with the production of collagen, and therefore plays a major part in

premature wrinkles occurring.

Type of employment the client has a commitment to can have varying environment.

Those situated in an office are faced under air-conditioning and fluorescent lighting,

and those outside or in the car are under the UVA and UVB rays, pollution and dust.

Each of these environments can trigger and worsen presenting skin conditions and

should be talked about when prescribing a treatment plan.

The client work commitments generally determine their available time. Salon

bookings should be made to suit the client schedule with the appropriate amount of

time between.

Nutrition, The skin is a canvas for what the body intakes. The foods we eat and the

water we drink are the basic building blocks of life and for cells to rebuild

continually.

Nutritional composition of food

Food composition is a well-known tern used to analyse and define the nutritional

components and information within the food that we eat. This can identify the

vitamins, minerals, and other substances in any given food. Food composition can

also outline any natural state or derivatives of any allergens.

100


This information is then abbreviated, summarised and then placed in a small table

on the back of packaged foods, this can also be known as a ‘food label’.

The food labels primary role is to enable clients and customers to make an informed

choice on the food they’re eating.

Nutrition guidelines and relationship between nutrition and healthy skin

All bodily functions, including the building of tissue, are directly related to nutrition.

Foods are broken down into basic molecules (a group of atoms bonded together,

representing a chemical compound) that are then delivered to every cell in the

human body. These molecules are by the cells as fuel to repair damage, form new

101


cells and conduct all biochemical reactions that run the body’s systems. They

provide energy that enables our body to carry out numerous functions.

Skin is nourished by blood and lymph through the arteries and capillaries of the

circulatory system. The foods we eat and the water we drink are the basic building

blocks of life. Think of the body or the cell as a machine. All of the necessary motors

and parts to run the machine are contained in the food we consume.

Beauty therapists are not dieticians or nutritionists, however, it is beneficial for all

practicing to have a good working knowledge of nutrition and how the body is

affected by food. Keep in mind we are not adequately trained to recommend

dietary changes to their clients suffering from certain medical conditions such as

diabetes or high blood pressure.

Foods which may have an effect on the skin

Nutrients are the basic building blocks necessary for bodily functions, including all

functions of the skin. The macronutrients

are:

Proteins

Carbohydrates

Fats

These three (3) groups make up the

largest part of nutrients we consume,

and they are in demand by our body.

Proteins are chains of amino acid

molecules, which are used by every cell

in the body. Proteins are used in the

duplication of DNA and are needed to

form muscle tissue, blood and enzymes

as well as keratin that is present in skin,

nails and hair. Collagen fibres are almost

formed from protein and aid the wound healing processes.

Carbohydrates break down the basic chemical sugars that supply energy for the

body. The most important carbohydrate is glucose because it provides most of the

body’s energy. There are two basic types of carbohydrates:

1. Simple - contain refined sugar (sucrose) and hold little to zero nutritional

value. Generally processed and inorganic. Simple carbs are absorbed faster

into the bloodstream and the energy from them are burned quickly e.g. white

bread, donuts, pizza, cookies, cakes, chips.

102


2. Complex / Starch - rich in fibre, vitamins and minerals. Generally natural and

unprocessed and therefore break down into glucose. Complex

carbohydrates are absorbed into the bloodstream slowly and give slow

energy release e.g. quinoa, vegetables, fruits, legumes, rye, wheat, barley.

Carbohydrates can be combined with proteins to produce many important body

chemicals. Mucopolysaccharides are important to the skin are present in the dermis

as glycosaminoglycan’s, the filler water-binding substance between the fibres of the

dermis.

Fats, or lipids, can be used as energy, but not as readily as carbohydrates. Many

people believe fats can be bad, although they are an essential component of good

health. Fats are used to produce the materials in the sebaceous glands that

lubricate the skin. Fats are used by the body to make hormones, to create cell

membranes, and to assist in the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E and K. The

third layer of skin, the hypodermis also retains heat.

In addition to this, the body has the ability to manufacturer fats if needed, fuelled by

proteins and carbohydrates.

Fats can also be categorised into three (3) components:

1. Saturated fats - Should be eaten in smaller amounts, Increase blood

cholesterol levels, Harden at room temperature. Sources include: cheese,

sausages, all meats and palm oils.

2. Monounsaturated – Can be had in the diet in moderation. Can reduce blood

cholesterol levels. Sources include: Olives, avocado and almonds

3. Polyunsaturated - Can be had more in the diet as long as the energy is being

burned off, e.g. exercise. Most effective in reducing blood cholesterol levels.

Sources include: Oily fish, soya beans and most seeds.

Antioxidants are vitamins, amino acids and other natural substances that neutralize

the damaging effects of free radicals and help the skin cope with environmental

influences. Vitamins A, C and E, minerals such as calcium, magnesium, potassium,

sodium and probiotics are all antioxidants that help protect the skin and body. We

can source these from our diet as well as topically through skincare.

103


Aftercare advice, products and future treatments to maintain client treatment

objectives

Some of your clients may want to achieve a successful skincare regime at home. This

supports the treatment they receive in salon and aid achieving their results. This

means that you will need to provide them with information about suitable products

to use at home and how to apply them.

Remind the client of how to use the products and confirm the application

techniques to be used at home. Encourage the client to ask questions and provide

visual demonstrations to clarify any information.

You could put this information on a card so that the client can buy the products at a

later time if they wish. The best client information cards include a diagram of the

face and you can use the cosmetics to illustrate the face as well as writing down the

name of the products used.

Information could include:

Products a client may wish to purchase

sun protection

dietary advice

stress management

exercise

water intake

caffeine, alcohol and cigarette reduction

adequate rest and relaxation

fresh air

Future treatment recommendations

104


Clients suffering from non-contagious skin conditions and disorders can also be

provided further specific advice for homecare treatment:

Use of hypo-allergenic skin care products

Avoidance of possible irritants

Avoidance of soap, and products containing lanolin and perfumed products

Gently patting skin dry after bathing, not rubbing

Treating dry skin with emollients

Changing towels and bed linen regularly

Washing hats and scarfs

Avoiding specific foods that may trigger or aggravate a skin condition

105


SECTION 9 – CLEAN TREATMENT AREA

Micro-organisms

Micro-organisms are everywhere! On all the surfaces you can see, on you and your

clothes, on the tools and equipment you use. Most of these micro-organisms are

harmless; some are even needed to maintain our health. However, there are some

micro-organisms that are harmful to us and cause illness and disease. The goal of

infection control procedures is to kill these harmful micro-organisms and to stop the

movement of them between people (cross-infection). The micro-organisms of

interest in infection control are bacteria, fungi and viruses.

Bacteria

There is a whole classification system that puts

bacteria into categories. For example, you may

have heard of ‘golden staph’. This is a

bacterium that has caused problems in

hospitals. Its real name is Staphylococcus

aureus. It is conical in shape, grows in grape

like clusters and it has a gold colour. About 20%

of the population carries golden staph; they often do not know it and it may cause

them no problems. The shape of ‘golden staph’, the way it grows and its colour help

scientists to classify it and give it a name. However, some bacteria are useful. An

example would be some of the bacteria in your digestive system that help to keep

the system healthy.

Fungi

Are next on our list and are also useful micro-organisms to humans. For example they

are used as yeast in bread-baking and in making

soy sauce. A few are harmful to humans. Fungi

that are harmful in a facial treatment context are

usually rare, and predominantly found on

fingernails, toenails and feet. They like the warm,

moist and dark environment provided by feet

which are in socks and shoes. Fungi like the

keratin (a protein) in the nail plate and also the

skin. An example of the type of fungi that can

cause problems for you is those that cause tinea pedis or ‘athletes foot’.

Viruses

The third micro-organisms that we are

interested in are viruses. They are sub-

microscopic infectious agents that are

unable to exist outside a cell. These are

spread by blood-to-blood contact. Examples

106


of viruses that you should be concerned in a facial treatment are HIV and Hepatitis.

Clients are not obliged to tell you that they have blood borne diseases like HIV and

Hepatitis; you are safe to do treatments on them provided you follow the guidelines.

If the client tells you they have a blood borne disease you must not reveal that

information to other people. As a result of the privacy considerations the industry

works as if everyone has a blood borne disease and everyone strictly follows the

correct procedures to prevent cross infection/contamination, that way you are

automatically protected whether your client has a blood borne disease or not.

The above information should not make you uncertain and unconfident in providing

facial treatments, you should not be concerned because there are guidelines,

procedures, tools, chemicals and equipment all designed to make it safe for you to

work in the beauty industry.

The first thing you should know is how cross infections can occur. There are many

routes of infection. Intact skin is the body’s first defense against infection. You should

make sure that you have no cuts or abrasions on your skin, if you have cuts and

abrasions you should cover them with a waterproof dressing and gloves, and you

should keep the skin of your hands moisturized and supple.

The first route of infection to consider is through the penetration of the skin. In facial

treatments it might be through using an implement to extract a lesion, this

implement may then be contaminated with infected blood and you must follow the

right sterilisation process before using the instrument again.

The second route of infection is through open wounds or cuts. If you accidentally cut

the skin on the client and if you also have an uncovered cut on your finger, the

client’s blood can enter your body through the wound. Clients may have infected

lesions which also lead to cross infection of lesions on the client’s skin.

Thirdly, contamination of instruments is another way that infection travels from one

person to another. You need to follow a particular procedure to make sure that all

instruments you use are cleaned and disinfected properly and then stored correctly

until they are used on the next client. For example if you use a facial mask brush on

a client and there is a bacterial infection that is not visible you will transfer the

bacteria to the next client if you reuse the brush without following the correct

disinfection processes.

Next you should consider what the client comes into contact with and what needs

to be changed after a service. For example, if a client has a facial and you use a

hot towel to remove exfoliant or mask product then that towel must not be used on

another client until it has been laundered correctly.

Finally, contaminated waste is another source of infection. This can happen when,

for example, you put a tissue you have used to blot the client’s face onto the

107


treatment trolley. The trolley top then becomes a potential source of cross

contamination during the service. All waste should go directly into the rubbish bin.

Disinfection means the inactivation of non-spore forming organisms using either

thermal (heat and water) or chemical means. Some disinfectants may be harmful to

human health. Always check the manufacture’s

(MSDS) prior to using a chemical disinfectant.

Contact time (how long the equipment is

in contact with the chemical) may

become ineffective if left for long time

periods. Always read manufacturer’s

instructions.

Chemical concentration (manufacture will

recommend an optimal strength). Always

read manufacturer’s instructions.

Sterilisation means the complete destruction of all microorganisms including spores.

This can require the use of a ‘hot-air oven’ or ‘glass-bead steriliser’, but more

commonly used is an Autoclave. This unit sterilises using boiling water; because of

the increased pressure the temperature reaches approximately 121-134◦c

Sustainable operating procedures for the conservation of product, water and

power

Sustainability is about doing more with less. All salons use resources. A resource is a

supply or source that can be used to your benefit. It can be a chemical, a product,

material, equipment or a staff member that helps you to perform your job. A natural

resource is something that has come from the environment that we can use for our

wants and needs.

Environmental sustainable work practices not only satisfy sustainability goals, but also

promote these ideas to the wider community. Sustainability can be grouped into

three categories:

108


Resource efficiency looks at energy, water and material use and waste generation.

Energy –

• Turning off lights and equipment when not in use.

• Using power saving functions on office equipment.

• Using efficient lights.

• Replacing incandescent tubes with fluorescent tubes.

• Installing skylights.

• Keeping heating at 20 degrees Celsius.

• Insulating rooms.

• Fitting self-closing doors.

• Minimising the use of hot water.

• Using alternative energy sources where possible

Water

• Comparing your water usage to others and make adjustments where

needed.

• Fixing dripping taps.

• Fixing leaking pipes.

• Avoiding using water wherever possible.

• Investigating ways to use or treat wastewater.

Material

• The way packaging is used.

• Using materials that produce less waste.

• The environmental standards of your suppliers.

• Using recycled materials.

109


• Using products designed for long life.

• Avoiding buying products or services that have a high risk.

• Only storing materials that you need.

• Storing all materials in designated areas.

• Keeping stored materials labelled.

• Keeping storage areas clean.

• Ensuring storage containers are sealed.

• Keeping spill kits in chemical storage areas.

Waste

In regards to waste generation, it is important to remember the 3 R’s:

1. Reduce

2. Reuse

3. Recycle

You can reduce waste by:

Quantifying the waste you produce.

Accounting for the difference between raw materials and products

produced.

Examining work activities to identify ways to reduce waste.

Keeping a running tally for waste production.

You can reuse by:

Reusing drums and other containers.

Reusing materials within work activities.

Selling waste to other production processes.

You can recycle by:

Segregating waste where possible.

Composting organic waste.

Separating recyclable waste.

It is important to speak to those responsible for collecting waste to determine what is

possible for your organisation.

Learner Guide - files.transtutors.com · Treatments Learner Guide . 2 S:\SHB Training package\SHB Training tools\SHBBFAS003 Provide specialised facial treatments v2.00 4/10/2017 Learner

Documents