Laluz 20

THE MAGAZINE FOR THE COSTA DE LA LUZ AND CÁDIZ PROVINCE

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Park life Making the most of our natural treasures

ISSUE 20 • SEPT-OCT 2007

BARBATEOutsider’sview of heradoptedtown

INTERIORSGlobe-trottingAmericanwith a senseof style

GRAPEVINECelebratingthe finesttable winesin the province

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Contents4 Letters

Editor’s introduction andall your comments

6 News All the latest from aroundthe province

12 Another Time Angel Tinoco rolls back theyears in our new bilingualfeature

14 Life StoriesHelen Purvis meets anArcos family doing their bitto bring Spanish to Britishchildren

22 How ToAll you need to knowabout buying a new car

23 Take 5…The laluz team reveal theirfavourite beaches in timefor the last blast ofsummer

24 Day TripperExplore the Moorish pastof Jerez or get on your bikeand make tracks for thesierra

26 Why I love… A laluz reader shares anew-found love of her localfootball team

28 A Town Like...Fishing fleets and fiestasdominate the agenda inBarbate

30 A Day in the LifeIt’s not easy for a flamencodancer getting to the top,as Beatriz Morales explains

32 Wild SideIt’s the time of year whenbirds of all shape and sizefill the skies as they crossthe Straits heading forwinter quarters in Africa

39 Readers’ Survey Help us provide you withan even better magazineand win yourself a bodegatrip at the same time

41 GardeningAutumn means fruit andour expert explains thebest varieties to go for

44 Homes & InteriorsDebra Berger has usedDalí and Gaudí asinspiration for her eye-popping renovations alongthe Costa de la Luz

48 PropertyIf the countryside’s not

your thing, our look attownhouses may give youa few answers

52 Ask the ExpertsAdvice from those in theknow

56 GrapevineWe turn the spotlight awayfrom the kitchen and ontowines to look at what theprovince has to offer

58 Eating OutOur reviewers have beento three very different butequally enticingrestaurants

60 What’s OnWhere to go and what tosee and do this autumn

62 Advertising Directory Local services, businessesand classified adverts

Director Chris Mercer

Managing Director Tony [email protected]. (+0034) 650 162 696

Advertising & Sales Kelly [email protected] Tel. (+0034) 655 047 054

EditorJenny [email protected] Tel. (+0034) 655 865 569

Production Tony [email protected]

DesignerRaúl López [email protected]

PrinterFotocromía Pol. Ind. Las salinas de Levante, AvdaInventor Pedro Cawley, 2-4 El Puerto de Santa María 11500 Cádiz, SpainTel. (+0034) 902 101 105

laluz magazine is published by La Luz Communications SLDepósito Legal CA 551/2004CIF B-11784022

Registered address Apdo. de Correos 39 Vejer de la Frontera, 11150 Cádiz,

© 2007 laluz CommunicationsReproduction of this magazine inwhole or part without the writtenpermission of the publishers isstrictly prohibited.

The publishers reserve the right toamend any submissions.

The views expressed by contri bu -tors and advertisers are not neces -sarily those of the publishers.

Although every effort is made toensure the accuracy of the infor ma -tion and the advertisements withinthe magazine, the publish ers cannotaccept any liability.

www.laluzmag.com

THE MAGAZINE FOR THE COSTA DE LA LUZ AND CÁDIZ PROVINCE

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luzm

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Park life Making the most of our natural treasures

ISSUE 20 • SEPT-OCT 2007

BARBATEOutsider’sview of heradoptedtown

INTERIORSGlobe-trottingAmericanwith a senseof style

GRAPEVINECelebratingthe finesttable winesin the province

CoverRío de la Miel, Algeciras© Juan Antonio Carrero Ayala

Welcome laluz ISSUE 20 • SEPT-OCT 2007

36WeekenderGreen is the colour in theRenaissance city of Úbedasitting deep in Jaén province

16 Insight A tour of the stunning and

diverse natural parks whichhelp make Cádiz such a

beautiful provincewater sports

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LETTERS4

Toast our natural wondersNever mind the Taj Mahal and the other new wonders of the world, here in Cádizprovince we can boast our own set of wonders – the natural kind. In our main feature thisissue, we explore the amazing variety of natural parks that are on our doorstep, each ofthem unique. You can walk, cycle, ride a horse, go canoeing, or admire one of the world’smost special sights, the autumn bird migration. Or just sit and enjoy a spectacular sunsetfrom any one of these beautiful spots. The simple pleasures are often the best.

Talking of simple pleasures, we’re proud to publish what we believe is the first guide tolocal wine produced here in Cádiz. Sherry usually grabs all the headlines, but the tablewines of Cádiz are starting to emerge as a force to be reckoned with in their own right.Guillermo Yanke had the hard task of tasting them in order to bring you our exclusivebuyers’ guide.

Other people’s stories always seem more interesting than our own, and this issue, theydon’t disappoint. There’s the family from Arcos who set up a successful new business tohelp children learn Spanish; the reader who fell in love with the real Barbate; and thecouple who’ve swapped the terraces at Old Trafford for the stand at their local ground inChiclana (and Janice, as the wife of a sad Leeds supporter, I’ve been told to say you’vedefinitely done the right thing).

And finally, news of a treat in store for all our readers. We’re holding the first laluzChristmas Ball in December, and it’s guaranteed to be an evening packed with fun, food,dancing and entertainment. So turn to page 43 to book your tickets now. See you there.

PS. We’re also giving away free tickets for a tour and tasting at one of the top bodegas in Jerez – to enter,simply fill in our Readers’ Survey on page 39. Help us to give you a better magazine

Feedback

Jenny Kean, editor

If you have a question or want to make a point, or if you just want to tell us how you feel about themagazine, write to [email protected] or by post to: The Editor, laluz magazine, Apdo de Correos 39,11150 Vejer de la Frontera, Cádiz. We reserve the right to edit letters for publication

Inside storyI read with interest your news itemon the planned closure of theDelphi factory in Puerto Real(News, issue 19). I had seen thebanners and petitions but mySpanish was not good enough toread the detail in the local pressreports. I can now see why newsof the closure sparked suchwidespread protests; it seems tobe a real blow to an area thatalready suffers from highunemployment and I hope thesepoor workers find other jobs.Tourism seems to be the onlyreplacement for the industries thatare going under here, but I dohope it’s not at the expense of thebeautiful environment we all enjoyso much. Janet Symonds,Sanlúcar de Barrameda

An agreement has now been worked out

giving the workers redundancy and the

Delphi factory has closed its doors for

good. See page 7

Up for the cupI’d like to extend an invitation tofellow rugby fans to come andwatch the televised games fromSeptember’s Rugby World Cup inour clubhouse in El Puerto de

Santa María. I play for the localclub, Portuense, and the bigscreen in our clubhouse is a greatplace to watch the games in thecompany of fellow enthusiasts. Theclubhouse is at Calle Palma, 23near the bullring and is openThursday and Friday evenings, andSaturday and Sunday from about1pm. Any World Cup games onduring those times will mostcertainly be shown. Justin Roberts, Tel: 637 752 047

Pass the wordWell done, laluz, on such acomprehensive listings service inyour What’s On pages. I amhoping to hold a Christmas sale inaid of charity later this year andwondered whether I would be ableto publicise the details in yourmagazine. Mrs A Browning, by e-mail

We’re delighted to receive news of any

community events such as concerts, fairs

etc. Post or e-mail them to the address on

this page – but remember that we work

well in advance because of our publishing

deadlines, so for an event in November or

December, for example, we would need to

know by early October.

Garden of delightThanks for the wonderful articleabout the new garden centre inChipiona. Having spent a lot oftime in the garden centres in ElColorado I was very interested toread that Rivera had tried to dosomething different and modelthemselves on the UK style toinclude furniture and decoration.So I hot-footed it down therewithin days of reading the articleand was certainly notdisappointed. Their variety andprices are excellent and above all Iwas really impressed with theirlevel of customer service. Lessthan a week after reading thearticle I had an air-conditionedtruck arriving in Medina Sidoniawith a massive delivery of trees,plants, decorative pots and turffor one of my propertymanagement clients, and in true‘Changing Rooms’ style, the pieceof land went from building site toglorious garden in the space of anafternoon! My clients are absolutelydelighted and I certainly won’t beshopping anywhere else. KirstyBiston, Casa de Medina, MedinaSidonia

Local knowledgeThe property focus column is awelcome addition to yourmagazine. Property is a subjectwe’re all interested in, and it’s goodto be able to read about theparticular topics which relate to thearea we live in, and to have localestate agents give their thoughts.

I have a number of friends inBritain who are thinking aboutrelocating to the Costa de la Luz butwho don’t yet know what sort ofproperty they want to buy. Thefeedback I’m getting from them isthat your property articles arehelping them build a compre hen siveidea of the market and the optionswhich exist in this beautiful andvaried area. So thanks laluz forproviding a much appreciatedservice. K Miller, El Puerto deSanta María

Glad to be of service, and if you turn to

page 48 you’ll get the lowdown on

townhouses, which come under Tony

Jefferies’ spotlight this issue. We love

getting feedback, and we’d be happy if

you’d take the time out to fill in our

readers’ survey on page 39. We’ve even

given you an incentive to let us know

what you think of laluz

‘The simplepleasuresare oftenthe best’

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Guardia Civil move in overChiclana building scams

news

Around 30 people have been arrested as part of ongoing operations to uncoverillegal housing deals in the Chiclanaarea.

Among those picked up by the authorities areestate agents, technical architects, taxassessors, promoters (developers), builders,house-owners and landowners.

In one investigation, dubbed Obra Nueva(New Build), the Guardia Civil arrested more than20 people for their part in a conspiracy to sell ortake mortgages out on illegal houses that hadbeen entered on the property register usingfalsified documents.

The falsified documents typically registeredthe existence of dwellings built more than fouryears previously on land not earmarked fordevelopment. That would have made them legalin terms of Andalusian land law. In fact, no suchdwellings existed.

Armed with such documents – plus fakephotos and fake tax certificates – some of thosedetained then went to banks to take outmortgages on the fictitious properties, whichthey then started to build. Investigations arecontinuing.

In two other police operations, nine morepeople were arrested. In one case the PublicProsecutor’s Office is seeking jail terms for sixpeople (three promoters, a technical architect,an engineer and a builder) said to have falsifieddocuments relating to the construction ofhouses on land in Chiclana.

One of the promoters is facing nine and halfyears in jail for fraud and falsification.

According to the prosecutor’s office, the casegoes back to December 2002 when a Chiclanaconstruction company bought some unfenced“waste land” with no buildings on it in PagoMelilla, which lies inland from Novo Sancti Petri.Around six months later the land was resold toanother Chiclana building company, with falsifiedpaperwork stating that there had been adwelling there for five years.

The second construction company startedbuilding three dwellings on the land, pressing onwith the work despite being discovered andordered to stop by the local council’s urbanismodepartment. The three dwellings weresubsequently sold “as legal” in April 2004.

In a second, similar case, the same architectis alleged to have been party to the falsificationof papers for a piece of land in the same area ofChiclana. Both cases involved land specified inthe local plan as “not for development”.

Fast rail link | drugs trafficking increase | Jerez bikes | cyclist tragedy

Windfall to boost birth rateParents of babies born or adoptedon or after July 3rd will enjoymore than just a new addition totheir family; they’ll also receive aspecial one-off payment of €2,500from the government.

Anyone legally resident in Spain –whether Spanish or foreign – iseligible for the money. Foreignersmust show proof of living legally inSpain for two years prior to the birthor adoption.

Spain has one of Europe’s lowestbirth rates and a growing elderlypopulation. According to the Organi -sation for Economic Cooperation andDevelopment, there are 1.36 birthsfor each woman of childbearing agein Spain. “Spain needs morechildren,” said Prime Minister JoséLuis Rodríguez Zapatero, explainingthe incentive.

Applications for the singlepayment, which will be taxdeductible, can be made at localsocial security or tax offices. Aspecial phone line has also been setup (901 200 345 or 901 335 533).The parent who will automatically beeligible for the money will be themother. In the case of multiplebirths, each child will get 2,500euros. Homosexual couples whohave adopted a child can also applyfor the money.

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LALUZ 20 | SEPT-OCT 2007 7

A new rail link has been unveiled which has doubled the frequency oftrains between Cádiz and Jerez and reduced the journey time by sixminutes.The new line now boasts the longest viaduct in Spain – a total of 3.2 kilometres acrossthe river Guadalete. The project, which had a total budget of €153 million, is part ofplans to transform the whole line between Cádiz and Seville into a high speed link.“The aim is to connect Seville and Cádiz in 55 minutes, and Madrid with Cádiz in threeand a quarter hours,” said San Fernando-born Minister for Development MagdalenaÁlvarez when she opened the new line in July.

A total of 22.6km of line has been upgraded – one stretch between Cádiz and BahíaSur (where a new station has been built), and the other between Jerez and El Puerto deSanta María, where a new station is due to be opened next year.

Trains now run every 15 minutes between Cádiz and Bahía Sur, and every half hourbetween Bahía Sur and Jerez and the new tracks allow trains to attain speeds of up to220 km per hour.

Until recently there had only been one train every hour to Jerez. Only three years ago, three-quarters of the railway line between Cádiz and Seville

was single track so that trains would have to wait in sidings while others passed in theopposite direction.

Rail link means upgrade in inter-city service

Minister for DevelopmentMagdalena Álvarez

inaugurates the new raillinks with Jerez

Delphi doors closeas workers lose fightAfter a 25-year presence in the Bay ofCádiz, and despite a five-monthcampaign to keep it open, the Delphicar parts factory in Puerto Real closedits doors for good at the end of July. Atotal of 1,549 workers have lost theirjobs in a severe blow to employment inthis area.

In a separate development, the future ofwhat remains of the province’s centuries-oldtobacco industry looks uncertain after BritishImperial Tobacco bought out the giant Altadisfirm. The move has prompted speculation thatBritish Imperial will transfer operations fromCádiz to Bristol in a bid to keep down costs.

The history of the industry here goes back tothe 17th century, the golden age of trading withthe Americas, but the Altadis factory was all thatremained with only around 300 employees. Thetakeover will make British Imperial the fourthlargest tobacco company in the world, givingthem control of the famous Montecristo cigars.

For the former Delphi workers, a deal hasbeen reached which will give them 45 days’pay for every year worked at the plant – that’smore than double what they were first offeredby the company, which is now expanding ineastern Europe instead.

The president of the Junta de Andalucía,Manuel Chaves, has spoken of “turning theclosure of Delphi into an opportunity”. Anagreement between the Junta and the unionsguarantees the axed workers new jobs withintwo years. The Junta is trying to build up newskills amongst the Bahía workforce to developthe aeronautical industry in this area, specificallyto help make parts for the Airbus A-350.

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As a consumer campaign forcheaper petrol spreads acrossSpain, official figures show thatCádiz province enjoys fuel pricesthat are lower than the nationalaverage.

It now costs €10 more to fill up a 40-litretank than it did five years ago, but Cádiz isstill one of the cheapest places in thecountry. According to the Ministry forIndustry, the average price of unleaded fuelhere in June was €1.079 per litre comparedto a national average of €1.093. Diesellocally cost €0.955 a litre as opposed to thenational average of €0.967.

But consumers are still angry at thesharp increases in petrol prices in recentyears. A campaign originating in France isbeing spread by e-mail and is nowcirculating in Spain. It calls on people not tobuy petrol from two of the biggest petrolcompanies, Shell and BP, from now untilthe end of the year.

The organisers of the campaign arguethat the two petrol companies will then beforced to lower their prices and others willfollow suit. “We can exercise power overthe petrol companies by striking a blow attheir purses,” the e-mail says.

Organisers hope to have reached 300million people by September.

NEWS8

Internet campaign leads battle for cheap petrol

Massive increasein cocaine trafficOfficial figures have revealed that lastyear, there was a 40-fold increase in theamount of cocaine seized in the provinceof Cádiz. The area’s top anti-drugsofficial, Ana Villagómez, says it’s proofthat Cádiz and the rest of the Andalucíancoastline is increasingly being used asan entry point for the drug from SouthAmerica.

Security forces intercepted 7,573 kilos of cocainehere last year, compared to just 180.3 in 2005. Thisfigure was boosted by one seizure alone of 3,500kilos in a boat off Cádiz. The coastline hastraditionally been renowned as an entry point forhashish from Morocco, and although figures havefallen, quantities seized still far outweigh cocaine.

Spain has the highest cocaine usage in the world,and consumption amongst 14 to18 year-olds hasquadrupled in the past 10 years. The governmentrecently signed an accord with the federationrepresenting bars, restaurants and discos to helpfight the drug.

In the province of Cádiz, the number of peoplereceiving treatment for cocaine is higher than theaverage for the rest of Andalucía. According to theprovincial drugs dependency service, nearly a third ofthe patients they see are users of cocaine, followedby around a quarter with alcohol related problems.

A haul of cocaine seized in Cádiz last year hidden inboxes of cashew nuts from Brazil

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Residents and regular visitors alike travelling into Jerez can now make use of 100 freebikes as part of a new initiative to try to reduce the number of cars in the city.

Jerez is the first place in Andalucía to try the scheme, but it’s being extended to Algeciras and other citiesoutside the province. London’s mayor Ken Livingstone is considering a similar scheme for the British capital.

Those who want to take party in the scheme must register their details with the ayuntamiento in order toreceive an electronic card. They can then go to any of three parking points in the city and swipe their card intoa machine, which will automatically unlock a bike for them.

The bikes are currently available in the Alameda del Banco, the Plaza del Mamelón and the bus station; afourth point is due to be set up at the Campus de La Asunción. The service will operate every day exceptSundays and public holidays. The scheme is only open to over-18s, although 14-year-olds and above may useit with parental permission.

The scheme has been set up by the Andaluz Energy Agency with the council in Jerez. It was inaugurated bythe mayoress, Pilar Sánchez (pictured second left), the director general of the Energy Agency, Francisco Bas,and Angelines Ortiz representing the provincial government.

Concert paystribute tovictims ofCádiz blastAt least two hundredpeople who died in amassive explosion at asubmarine base in Cádizin 1947 were rememberedat a special concert in thecity held on August 18th,60 years after the event.

The catastrophe occurred whenmany thousands of pounds ofexplosives blew up on thesubmarine defence base nearPuerta Tierra. No reports of thetragedy appeared in the pressunder an edict from the Francoregime and although officialfigures put the number of deadat 159, the real figure is believedto have been much higher –between 200 and 400. The blastcompletely destroyed 500homes and left 5,000 peopleinjured. An orphanage and ahospital were among thebuildings affected.

Archive documents havesince come to light whichsuggest that the explosion mayhave been the result ofsabotage by anti-Franco forces,but nothing is known for certainabout the real cause.

Jerez leads way with‘borrow a bike’ scheme

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Cyclist diesafter fall fromcliff top

A 45-year-old cyclist who was on holiday nearConil died after losing control of his bike andplummeting 20 metres over a cliff onto the rocksbelow.

The tragedy happened on the morning of August8th when the cyclist – who was from Seville – hadset out on his own for a ride along the cliff topsabove the calas between Conil and Roche. The cliffshave wide tracks for cycling and walking, but thesheer drop is unprotected by any fences or barriers. According to one report, the man was talking on hismobile phone when he lost control of the bike andwent over the edge of the cliff at the Cala del TíoJuan María.

A fisherman nearby raised the alarm and arescue helicopter was sent to the scene, togetherwith units of the Guardia Civil and local police. Atthat point, they managed to establish that the manwas still alive, but he died from his injuries beforeemergency services were able to rescue him. Dueto the difficult location, it took some time beforethe body could be removed.

The man had been staying with his family at theEl Faro campsite. His wife was immediately calledto the scene to identify the body, and his son laterarrived from Seville to comfort his mother.

NEWS10

The heart of Los Alcornocalespark was used to recreate thelast days of the South Americanrevolutionary Che Guevara forthe latest film by Oscar-winningdirector Steven Soderbergh.

The small town of San Pablo deBuceite, near Jimena, became a basefor more than a hundred technicians,make-up and costume artists filmingthe biopic ‘Guerrilla’ in August.Soderbergh was also present,together with actor Benicio del Toro,who plays Che.

The Alcornocales – the biggestnatural cork forest in Europe – wasused to film scenes of Che’s battleswith troops in the final weeks beforehe was killed in the mountains ofBolivia. Soderbergh – who made‘Ocean’s Eleven’ and its sequels andwon an Oscar for ‘Traffic’ – is making

two films about the Argentinian-bornrevolutionary; the first, entitled ‘TheArgentine’, portrays his role in theCuban revolution, while ‘Guerrilla’focuses on the final years of theMarxist revolutionary’s life. Both filmsare due to be released next year.

Del Toro, who plays the lead role inboth films, won an Oscar for his rolein ‘Traffic’, which also scooped anOscar for Soderbergh as director.Julia Ormond is his co-star in‘Guerrilla’.

news in briefPark faceliftAround €6.5 million euros is being spentimproving facilities in the Los Toruños parkbetween El Puerto and Puerto Real. Avisitor centre is being built in Valdelagranaand another one in the Cortijo de la Vegain Puerto Real. A footbridge across therailway will link the park with the pineforest of La Algaida, and a new path isbeing constructed between the Venta ElMacka and Los Toruños. A cycle route isalso planned that will lead from the end ofthe paseo marítimo at Valdelagrana to thepark’s main entrance at the venta.

Air pollutionIt has been estimated that half a millionpeople in Cádiz province are living with ahigher level of air pollution than the legalminimums. According to a report by theEnvironment Ministry at the Junta deAndalucía, the worst affected cities areAlgeciras, Los Barrios, San Roque, LaLínea, Cádiz and Jerez. Last year they allexceeded the average of 40 microgramsper cubic metre of the gases that areconsidered most harmful. Arcos de laFrontera and San Fernando were alsomentioned as areas that are badly affectedby air pollution. A new law will force localauthorities to reduce pollution.

Revolutionin the air near Jimena

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Threatened coral thrives off city beachesFor the first time, a species of orange coral has been discovered by scientists in the watersoff the city of Cádiz. The coral, astroides calycularis, is usually found in the Mediterraneanand is listed in the catalogue of threatened species in Andalucía. Its numbers have declinedin recent decades owing to coastal development, the impact of diving and watercontamination and Cádiz is the furthest west that it has been found in Europe. Techniciansfrom the Junta’s environment ministry say they found numerous colonies of the coral and inan excellent state of conservation.

Eleven British anglers were thefirst to benefit from a newfreshwater fishing licence coursethat was held in English for thefirst time. The course was held inChiclana in August and wasconducted by an English-speaking official of theenvironment ministry of the Juntade Andalucía.

The course is now mandatory forthose wishing to fish the inland(coarse fishing) waters ofAndalucía and until now this eventhad only been offered in Spanish.It included a valuable insight intothe fishing laws of the region. Oneidea to come out of it was thepossibility of setting up a fishingclub for the area.

The next course is being heldduring the third week ofSeptember. A similar course isalso obligatory for hunting in theregion. This too can be offered inEnglish. Anyone interested in thecourses or in joining the firstangling society in the area shouldcontact [email protected] orcall 650 162 696.

news in briefAward winnersSherries and cheeses from theprovince have scooped moreprizes in major competitions.Bodegas Valdivia in Jerez wongold medals (best in class) at theInternational Wine and Spiritcompetition for their Sacromonterange – amontillado, oloroso andPedro Ximénez. The competition –considered one of the mostprestigious in the world – was heldand judged in Britain recently. Therenowned Payoyo cheese fromVillaluengo del Rosario in theSierra de Cádiz was runner-up inthe annual Best Spanish CheesesAwards 2007 in the category ofcheeses made from a mix of goat’sand sheep’s milk.

Rugby delayThe mayor of El Puerto de SantaMaría says he is seeking moneyfrom the Junta de Andalucía to helpfinance the town’s much awaitednew rugby ground. EnriqueMoresco said nobody knew whathad happened to the money thatthe former council had approvedfor the project back in 1999. But hesaid he would turn to the Junta totry to get the pitch built on land atthe Las Salinas estate. At themoment, the town’s rugby club, CRAtletico Portuense, has to share agrass pitch at La Puntilla with allthe football clubs, making matchscheduling and training very tight.Club members say if they had theirown pitch, the club would be ableto expand.

New flights to LisbonThe low cost airline, Vueling, isopening up a new route betweenSeville and Lisbon later this year.There will be three flights a weekfrom December 1st, and tickets willstart at €50 return including taxes.

Coarse course a source of success

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ANOTHER TIME12

The OwlsFrom time to time during the years after the war, the inspectors fromSupplies and Transport used to turn up in Vejer, not to solve the problemof hunger, but to make it even worse.

These inspectors used to launch a frontal assault on the shopkeeperswho were always a shoulder to cry on for the many townsfolk who inthose days were going hungry.

The inspectors, called the ‘owls’ by the whole town, knew that the grown-ups and town authorities were hostile and refused to cooperate withthem in their tax work – so much so that, as soon as they set foot in Vejer,the chillá (the whisper or alert) went round that ‘the owls’ had arrived,and everybody shut up shop and hid away every type of food because ofthe havoc these lechuzos used to wreak on local business.

Faced with this situation, the officials would usually turn to the childrenand grill them. So one day two ‘owls’ turn up in Vejer and find all theshops shut. Baffled, they go up to a lad in the street and ask him: “Heykid, tell us who sells bread round here.” The lad replies, in all truth andinnocence, “When the ‘owls’ are in town you won’t find nothing here”.The tax inspectors ask him again: “But who bakes the bread round here?”and the lad says, “The bread gets baked by Little Goat, Toad, The Hare,The Turkey, Otter…” One of the inspectors butts in and asks him, “Tell me,kid, and what’s your name?” and the lad says, “Me? I’m Little Cat.”

Translation: Glyn Perrin

Los LechuzosEntre los años que siguió a la posguerra, sucedió en Vejerque periódicamente venían los inspectores de Abastecimiento yTransportes, no a solucionar el problema del hambre, sino a incre -mentarlo más.

Estos inspectores atacaban de lleno a los minoristas, que siempre fueronel paño de lágrima de la mayoría de la población que entonces pasabahambre.

Los inspectores, conocidos por todo el pueblo como los lechuzos,sabían que las perso nas mayores y las Autoridades locales les eranhostiles y que nunca cooperaban en sus labores fiscales. Tanto es así,que en cuanto ponían pié en Vejer se corría la chillá (el soplo o aviso)de que habían llegado los lechuzos, y todas las tiendas cerraban y seocultaba cualquier tipo de alimento, pues muchos y grandes fueronsus estragos en el comercio local.

Ante esta situación, los citados funcionarios solían abordar a los niñospara interrogarles. Un día llegan a Vejer dos lechuzos y se encuentrantodos los estable ci mientos cerrados. Desorientados se acercan a unniño en la calle y le preguntan: “Oye niño, dime. ¿Quien vende aqui elpan? y el niño les responde con toda la verdad e inocencia: “Mientrasestén aqui los lechuzos no se encuentra de ná”. Los de la fiscalía leinquieren de nuevo: ¿Pero aquí quién amasa el pan?” y éste le contesta,“Aqui amasa el pan la Cabrita, el Sapo, la Liebre, el Pavo, el Lobito....”.En este momento le corta uno de los inspectores y le pregunta: “Niño,dime ¿tu como te llamas¿” A lo que el zagal responde: “Yo, el Gatito”.

In a new series, Angel Tinoco – for many years Vejer’s cinema projectionist– recounts stories of lifein this area in days gone by. Although they are based on true characters and events in Vejer, theycould equally apply in most small towns across the province. This story is set in the late Forties andearly Fifties, when rationing was in force and inspectors would visit to check on food and olive oilsupplies. Like the birds of prey they are named after, the ever watchful ‘owls’ are renowned for makingfood disappear by confiscation or other means – but in this instance, the joke could be on them.

An inspector calls

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When Jim Porter and Emma Bellleft Santander in the north of Spain toreturn to Britain after a year of teachingin the mid-Nineties they vowed toreturn sooner rather than later.

However, their intentions werewaylaid a little by marriage, the birth oftwo children, a house purchase andthe setting up of a successfulbusiness. In the end, it was almost 10years before they said goodbye to theUK and settled in Arcos de la Frontera.

The couple’s background inteaching had prompted them to set upTalk Languages – a company whichconnected people who wanted privatelanguage tuition with teachers in theLondon area.

“We had people with Braziliangirlfriends, and some Swedish too,who wanted to learn the language.Also there were a large number ofpeople moving abroad, especially toSpain, who wanted some tuition beforethey left Britain,” says Emma, whohelped run the business in her sparetime.

They had already begun to looktowards a return to Spain and boughta run-down farmhouse in Huescaprovince for just £16,000. Later, theydecided their future didn’t lie in thePyrenean foothills and sold theproperty. “It was our little dream and itkept us going while we lived inLondon,” says Emma.

In early 2005, their house andbusiness sold, Jim and Emma alongwith their two children, Joe andMaggie, jumped in their car and set offto find their new home in Spain.

“We looked in Asturias, theValencian coast, Murcia and we nearlybought a property in the Alpujarras,”Emma says. “We had serious carproblems and nearly turned back butwe had mapped out a route all the wayto Cádiz and thought we may as wellcomplete the course.”

Their route took them through Arcosde la Frontera, where they noted somehouses for private sale. Within a weekthey had bought a handsome, 500-year-old townhouse in the heart ofArcos. “We loved the town and it isvery well located for famous cities,mountains and the beach.

“We also knew the house couldprovide us with an income if we turnedit into a guest house.” With a fewstructural tweaks, Casa Campana wassoon open for business.

The restless couple were looking forsomething more though. “We thought:‘What can we do that is morestimulating?’ Once you’ve worked foryourself you get used to it and youdon’t really want to work for anyoneelse,” Jim says. “Having had asuccessful business in the UK, peoplecan sometimes feel at a loss when theycome here – a big fish in a small pond.”

A year ago, inspiration came fromvisiting friends with an educationalbackground who mentioned howdisappointed they had been with alanguage learning DVD course theyhad bought for their young daughter.

“They suggested that we all gettogether to create a Spanish course forchildren and we jumped at the idea.Speekee was born,” Jim says. “We

asked friends’ children in Arcos to beinvolved in the filming, and wereamazed by how well they did.”

With 10 episodes over three DVDsscripted, filmed and edited in Spanishthe product was launched at this year’sViva España exhibition in London. Toadd to the initial good feedback, areview in the Times EducationalSupplement brought more praise and,importantly, more sales.

“It drew on all our skills – even asparents,” says Emma. Their twochildren, five-year-old Joe and Maggie(3), feature in the DVD. “It wasinteresting and rewarding and I felt likeI was using my brain again.”

Jim is just as enthusiastic: “It’s themost exciting and fulfilling project Ihave worked on. It’s not easy settingup a business. Many people come toAndalucía looking for something to doand fall back on what they didpreviously. This project has reallyworked for us.”

Now, alongside the guest house andthe twice weekly local yoga classesEmma leads, the couple are workingon getting Speekee into British primaryschools with lesson plans and variousideas for teaching devices such as anextensive website resource andsuggestions for cross-curriculum use.

“In 2010 all primary schools will berequired to teach a foreign language,says Jim. “The challenge is persuadingthem to do it in Spanish and notFrench.”_________________________________www.casacampana.comwww.speekee.co.uk

Jim Porter and EmmaBell with children Joeand Maggie who starin the language DVD

they created in Arcos

LIFE STORIES14

Spreading the wordHelen Purvis talks to a couple who have put their experience to good use sincesetting up home in Arcos de la Frontera

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INSIGHT | NATURAL PARKS16

Natural highJenny Kean takes a look at the incredible diversity of habitat and species in theprotected zones which cover more than a quarter of the province

Imagine an area smaller than North Yorkshire where, withinthe space of a few hours, you could be watching whales, hikingthrough subtropical jungles, canoeing along salt flats or climbingpeaks 1,000 metres high and gorges 400 metres deep. Throw in oneof the biggest natural cork forests in the world, a unique fir tree that’s asurvivor from the Ice Age and the planet’s busiest bird migration pathand you get some idea of the wealth and diversity of nature on offer inCádiz province.

It’s not much more than 20 years since the first natural park wascreated in Cádiz (in the Sierra de Grazalema in 1985 – the first inAndalucía). Now, with the most recent inclusion of the Parque Naturaldel Estrecho (in 2003), well over a quarter of the province’s total landmass has been designated as protected space.

And it’s a space that’s rich in treasure. Not just in terms of thegeology, the flora and the fauna, but culture, archaeology and historytoo: prehistoric caves, dolmens, Roman ruins, the Moorish heritage,the bandits, the anarchists, the folklore…the natural parks of Cádizhave got it all.

They aren’t just tourist attractions preserved in aspic for curioussightseers, however. These are places where local people continue tostrive (as they always have done) to make a sustainable living fromlocal natural resources: blankets in Grazalema, cheeses in the sierra,salt in the bahía or leather in Ubrique.

Take the cork forests of the Alcornocales, where the cork isharvested from the trunks of oaks every nine or ten years, so the treeis left to fully recover.

“There’s no doubt that the industry has contributed to maintainingthe park,” says James Stuart, whose company, Discover Andalucía,has been leading tours here since 1993. “It’s an excellent example ofcombining a traditional way of harnessing the woodland with amodern consumer product in a truly sustainable way.”

Elsewhere, the impact of man has been more damaging. Recentdecades have seen the loss of most of the original marshes andsaltpans in the Bahía de Cádiz, as the unstoppable march of urbandevelopment swallowed up more and more land.

And yet, as the park’s Director Francisco Javier Bravo points out,what remains has become a haven for wildlife. “Here you can seeflamingoes, spoonbills, avocets, plovers and dunlins – and in winter,ospreys and even the rare black stork. And all this in an environmentthat is surrounded by heavily built-up land with a population of morethan 400,000 people and industrial areas too. It sets the bahía apart,makes it quite special.”

Today’s challenge is how to strike a balance between making thebest use of these natural parks as a resource for visitors, andprotecting their precious heritage. Rural tourism is the new buzzwordas more and more people look for something other than just sun andbeach.

“Rural tourism is very important,” says Miguel Ángel Maneiro, thedirector of the Sierra de Grazalema park. “But a massive influx ofvisitors could pose a serious threat to the plants and wildlife here.Nevertheless, if we take into account the most fragile areas, the risk offire and the protection of the most threatened habitats, allowing publicaccess shouldn’t have a negative effect.”

James Stuart, too, feels that more could be done to enable peopleto enjoy the parks without spoiling them. “They are under-promoted.More needs to be done to improve the signposting and information –how to get from A to B,” he says.

In the Parque Natural del Estrecho, director Manuel Jesus Cabello

is enthusiastic about what’s on offer for the visitor – whale watching,bird watching, walking, kite and wind surfing, diving, rock climbing andcultural visits like Baelo Claudia. “I think there are few places in theworld where you can carry out such a variety of activities in a naturalspace,” he says.

But he’s also quick to point out the responsibility involved in this.“Both nature and our antecedents have left us a wonderful heritage.We must learn from our mistakes and create more sustainable ways ofoffering services. The responsibility rests with us all – do we really needto keep putting up posters to stop people leaving their rubbish, forexample?”

Stephen Daly, who runs birding and wildlife tours through hiscompany, Andalucian Guides, makes the point that it is a relativelynew concept for rural Spaniards in this part of the country to discoverthe treasures on their own doorsteps. “You have to remember that it’sa very different mentality,” he explains. “People in the countryside areused to living off the land, not using it for leisure. The Doñana, forexample, now one of the area’s most famous reserves, was a huntingground.”

For his colleague, Stephen Knapp, Cádiz province offers the bestwildlife not just in Spain but in the whole of Europe. “I made my living for30-odd years in wildlife conservation in Britain and when I left, I wantedto find somewhere I could tune into. It’s just so fabulous here. There’salways something new. The other day, I stumbled across a spider – theladybird spider – that I’ve waited all my working life to see. At themoment, there are thousands of black kites flying through this area; ifjust one turned up in Britain, birdwatchers would flock from all around tosee it. I just feel spoilt here on a daily basis.”

Sierra de GrazalemaSize: 53,411 hectaresActivities: Hiking, mountainbiking, birdwatching,rock climbing, horse riding, caving

“This is one of the most ecologically diverse and interesting areas in Andalucía,” says the park’s director,Miguel Ángel Maneiro. It contains the highest peak in Cádiz (ElTorreón, 1,654m), the pinsapar fir tree that is left over from the IceAge, and one of the largest colonies of griffon vultures in Europe. Thepark, which has some areas where access is limited, offers animpressive landscape of contrasting reliefs – limestone peaks, woodedslopes and steep sided canyons like the Garganta Verde whichplummets to a depth of 400m (see Day Out, issue 13 – contact theinformation office at El Bosque for a permit for this walk). Curiously, theSierra de Grazalema has one of the highest rainfalls in the Iberianpeninsula and even snow in winter. All 90 species of trees representedin the park can be found in the Jardín Botánico at El Bosque. Thereare also many kinds of birds but perhaps because of their majesticflight, it is the birds of prey that capture the spotlight – griffon vulturesbut also golden, imperial, booted and Bonelli’s eagles.___________________________________________________________More informationCentro de Visitantes, El Bosque. Tel: 956 727 029Centro de Información, Ubrique. Tel: 956 464 900Oficina de Información, Grazalema. Tel: 956 132 225Oficina de Información, Zahara de la Sierra. Tel: 956 123 114Oficina de Información y Ecomuseo de Benaocaz. Tel: 956 125 500

Grazalema

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Los AlcornocalesSize: 170,000 hectaresActivities: Cycling and mountain biking, horse-riding, walking, kayaking, climbing, birdwatching

“Quite simply, it’s unique,” says James Stuart of DiscoverAndalucía. Apart from being one of the biggest natural cork forests,Los Alcornocales also has its own subtropical micro-climate. Waterhas eroded the rock to create deep gullies or canutos where thetemperatures remain much more constant all year round. This leadsto a jungle kind of vegetation with creepers, ferns and a canopyoverhead which means these gullies are always shaded. StephenDaly of Andalucian Guides agrees that the park is “stunning”, andhopes that talk of running a railway through here to link SanFernando with Algeciras comes to nothing. Permits are required formany areas of the park, available from the park office in Alcalá delos Gazules. Its inaccessibility is partly what has kept the park sounspoiled.

__________________________________________________________More informationThe park office is in Plaza San Jorge, Alcalá. Tel: 956 413 307.Information and good route maps (but not permits) are alsoavailable from the El Aljibe visitor centre on the edge of the town bythe Jerez-Los Barrios motorway.

The expert viewWe asked the experts we interviewed to come up with theirfavourite spot or walk in any of the natural parks. “To choosejust one is difficult,” said one. “In fact, impossible.”

Los AlcornocalesThe Puerto Oscuro is James Stuart’s favourite walk, going from thearid Aljibe peak at 1,000 metres down into the depths of theGarganta Oscura. But he also recommends the route from thePicacho peak to La Sauceda. For cyclists, he suggests the Puertodel Bujeo near Algeciras.

The Ojen Valley on the southern side of the park behind Facinasis the top of Stephen Daly’s list. “Apart from the physical beauty,the birdlife and plantlife are wonderful.”

Bahía de CádizThe views of the Bay from the Playa de la Casería and the areaknown as Punta del Boquerón are the two places highlighted bythe park’s director, Francisco Javier Bravo.

Sierra de GrazalemaSunset in the Puerto del Boyar or Puerto de las Palomas is onenot be missed for the park’s technical consultant, Isabel MariaCasillas. “Easily accessible, even by car, you’ll be guaranteed somespectacular views.” She also recommends “the peaceful murmurof the water at the entrance to the Cuevo de Gato” and the JardínBotánico at El Bosque.

Parque del EstrechoThe mirador at Cerro del Tambor on Monte Bujeo is a favouriteplace for the park’s director, Manuel Jesus Cabello. You can reachthis from the track that goes to Guadalmesí from Pelayo (km96 ofthe N340). He also loves Los Lances beach near Tarifa and theRoman ruins at Bolonia.

Cork is harvested from trees in Los Alcornocales every nine or 10 years, and isthen transported by mule in the traditional way

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Bahía de CádizSize: 10,000 hectaresActivities: Walking, cycling, canoeing,birdwatching, boat trips, fish farms and saltpans

The action of the sea combined with the wind andcentury-old sediments have created a mosaic of beaches, muddyplains and salt marshes that make up the bahía. The combination ofcirculating water, light and abundant nutrients have led to a diversity ofspecies like molluscs, crustaceans, fish and aquatic birds. DirectorFrancisco Javier Bravo acknowledges that the park is one of the lesswell known ones, but says that new pathways and cycle routes arebeing opened up and a visitor centre is being unveiled in SanFernando this autumn. “It’s a large wetland of exceptionalornithological value, despite the surrounding pressures of urbangrowth,” says Francisco.

__________________________________________________________More informationThe park office is in the Jardín Botánico in San Fernando, (C/ Coghen).Tel: 956 203 187 or e-mail [email protected] new visitor centre will be in an old salt works near the Playa deCamposoto. Kayaking and boat trips from Novojet in old Sancti Petri.Tel: 956 492 026

Coto DoñanaThe Doñana is in fact a National Parkwhich mostly lies outside Cádiz province in Huelvaand Seville. It is surrounded by smaller naturalparks and reserves, part of which fall within our

boundary. Its most renowned resident is the Iberian lynx but thepressures of tourism, manmade barriers such as motorways and thesurrounding intensive agriculture mean the animal is struggling tosurvive. The park is also famous for birdwatching. “Any vast wetlandstill in existence in this century has to be a bonus for birds – especiallywaders and waterfowl,” says Stephen Daly of Andalucian Guides.“They’ve done a lot to make people aware of this treasure in thesouthern tip of Spain, but more needs to be done for people tounderstand the effects of the surrounding orange and olive groves andalso the massive rice fields on the habitats of the Doñana. ”

__________________________________________________________More informationAndalucian Guides organize tours to the Doñana and elsewhere in theprovince. Tel: 956 432 316. Boat trips are available from Sanlúcar deBarrameda, departing from the Fábrica de Hielo at Bajo de Guía. Tripsevery day, booking essential. Tel: 956 363 813 or seevisitasdonana.com.

The salt marshes and wetlands of the Bahía de Cádiz and of the Doñana are home to many different species of birds, including flamingoes and avocets

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The Acantilado de Barbate is one of the most spectacular sights along the coastand can be reached on foot through the Breña pine forest.

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La Breña y Marismasde BarbateSize: 4,845 hectaresActivities: Birdwatching, walking, cycling, horse

riding, kite and windsurfing

“An authentic paradise”, says La Breña’s director FranciscoJavier Bravo. The green of the pine trees dominates and the park isalso home to one of the most important concentrations of maritimejuniper. Especially outstanding is the Cliff of Barbate (Acantilado deBarbate), “a landmark of singular beauty and the perfect spot to enjoya magnificent view of Morocco.” Park in an allocated area off the LosCaños to Barbate road, and walk through the forest until you reachone of the watchtowers and the cliffs. Good for easier walks. On theother side of Barbate are the salt marshes which provide importanthabitats and feeding grounds for birds.

____________________________More informationThe park office is in the JardínBotánico in San Fernando, (CalleCoghen). Tel: 956 203 187 or e-mail [email protected].

Also visit Barbate tourist officeon Avda José Antonio 23. Tel: 956 433 962

Parque Natural del EstrechoSize: 18,887 hectares. (9,640 on land and 9,247under water)Activities: Whale watching, birdwatching, walking,

kite and windsurfing, diving, rock climbing, horse riding and culturalvisits (prehistoric caves, Baelo Claudia at Bolonia)

Where two seas and two continents meet, this park isinfluenced by a mixed climate of the Mediterranean and the Atlantic.But the dominant levante wind blowing from the east at up to 125 kman hour is also an important influence. The Estrecho offers a total of 18different habitats – from big coastal dunes to woods of willow, cork,olive and pines. And the annual migration of birds to Africa makes for aspectacular sight. But what sets it apart is that nearly half of it is underthe sea. Here you can find plant and animal life ranging from a multi-coloured sea slug less than 1cm long to whales of up to 22 metres inlength. And shipwrecks, too. The confluence of the two seas createsan “exceptional wealth of species,” says park director Manuel JesúsCabello, “with new ones being discovered all the time.”

___________________________________________________________More informationThe Estrecho park currently shares office space with the Bahía deCádiz in the Jardín Botánico in San Fernando (C/ Coghen.) Tel: 956 203 187. A new information point has also opened in La Peñain Tarifa. Otherwise try Tarifa information office on Paseo de laAlameda. Tel: 956 680 993

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21LALUZ 20 | SEP-OCT 2007

Captions here the thing on topis a opistobranquio if you wantto know. The dolphins are fromestrecho, not fake

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raul

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Tony new caption here please, see what´s in it if you want to use

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Buy a new car In our series of practical guides to living and working in Spain, we examine the process involvedin buying a new set of wheels and some of the legal requirements of driving in this country

HOW TO…?

If you are buying a new car inSpain, your dealer shouldguide you through theprocess. Different rules applyto people who are not residentin Spain and have no currentaddress here, but people livinghere will need to supply:

• Residency card if you haveone

• Passport• NIE (the foreign identification

number assigned by theInterior Ministry)

• Proof of residence from thecouncil where you are living(certificado de empadrona -miento issued by the town

hall) or a council tax receiptfor the current year

• The title deeds for a Spanishproperty owned by you, or arental contract

You will have to pay aregistration tax when you buy anew car. This may not beincluded in the price you arequoted for the car, so alwayscheck. The tax is 7% of the car’svalue (for up to 1600cc petroland 2000cc diesel) and 12% ifthe vehicle exceeds theseengine capacities.

You will also have to pay 16%IVA (or VAT).

Legal RequirementsDon’t forget that by law youmust carry the following in yourcar:• A set of spare bulbs • Two red warning triangles and

a fluorescent visibility jacket• Spare tyre and any necessary

toolsYou may be fined if you do notcarry these. Children under theage of 12 must travel in the backseat unless the front is fittedwith an approved restraintsystem or child seat.

All EU driving licences arerecognised in Spain. Speed limits are 120km/h for

motorways, 90-100km/h foropen roads, 50km/h in built-upareas. Spain has stricter drinkdriving laws than the UK; thelegal limit is 0.5 milligrams ofalcohol per millilitre of blood,compared to 0.8 in the UK.

As a guide, you should drinkno more than 1 pint of lager or 1glass of wine although theadvice of course is not to drinkat all.

Speeding and other trafficoffences are subject to on-the-spot fines. The police candemand immediate payment ofthe fine and may even escortyou to a cash point. In the worstcase scenario, you could bearrested or your car impounded.__________________________Written in conjunction withJesús Rivas of the VWfranchise Bahiamóvil, Av del Mueble s/n, Chiclana.Tel: 956 010 210

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TAKE 5… FAVOURITE BEACHES

Seaside specialsWith the crowds gone but the warm waters and autumn sun still beckoning, the laluz team reveal thestretches of sand that mean most to them

ATLANTERRA, TARIFAAtlanterra, or Playa de en Medio, is a hiddenbay in the Cabo de Gracia, Tarifa, but can onlybe acces sed through Zahara de los Atunes. It isone of my favourite spots, surrounded by cliffswith spectacular views across the Straits toMorocco. For centuries it has been a refuge forpirates and during Franco’s years it was used asa hideout by Nazi officers after the SecondWorld War. Its remoteness and quietness makeit one of the most beautiful beaches in the area,especially in the low season, when it is almostdeserted. A true paradise on our doorstep. Raúl López, designer

CABO DE TRAFALGAR, BarbateThere’s something elemental about Trafalgarthat touches me whenever I go there, especiallyoutside the busy months of summer. It’s goteverything: a sheltered bay for swimming,

wonderful dunes for the children to hide in, arocky headland exposed to the full power of theAtlantic, and a wilder shore on the other sidewhere the colour of the water will amaze. Andall this against a backdrop of the vivid greenbroccoli-top trees of La Breña and the ghosts ofthat famous battle. We first went there some 15years ago. It was my first taste of Spain, and Istill have the shells I collected that day. Eventhough it’s to be avoided in high season and itcan be messy, for me Trafalgar has its ownmagic. Jenny Kean, editor

CALAS DE ROCHE, ConilWe first ‘discovered’ the coves and beaches ofRoche six years ago. Reminiscent of Cornwall,these little inlets offer shelter from the levanteand excellent swimming. Due to size of thecoves (none are very big) there is a feeling ofcosiness that you do not get on the largerbeaches, where hundreds of families gather. Itis almost like being on your own private beach.We have seen dolphins very close to the shoreand often see large fish in the waves. Crabs canbe seen in the rock pools and fishing is popularoff the rocks. Chris Mercer, director

LA CALETA, CádizThere’s always something special about citybeaches but La Caleta is more special thanmost. This is the playground for the old townand I dare say small-time fishermen have beenhauling their rowing boats up the sand for all3,000 years of the city’s existence. Here thelocals spill out of their tall, narrow houses andshout and splash in a way no other citizens ofSpain can match. It may not be big, but thiscrescent-shaped stretch of sand manages to beurbane as well as urban; as if to underline thepoint, the elegant, white pavilion which frontsthe sands was used to replicate a Havanabeach bar in the Bond Movie Die Another Day.

La Caleta attracts all sorts, from joggers andfishermen to hippies and families. It’s a healthy,happy mix and it makes me smile every time I

visit. Tony Jefferies, production

LA LOMA DEL PUERCO, ChiclanaDuring many childhood years spent holidaying inCádiz sun, sea and sand were obligatory to ourfamily. Every day we would set off like pack horsesloaded with chairs, cooler boxes, parasols, towelsand buckets and spades. My sisters and I wouldtuck into bocadillos as big as our heads, filledwith tortilla or chorizo and a sprinkling of sand.Wonderful childhood memories.

Fast-forward 30 years and here I am living inChiclana, three children of my own and abeautiful wife who hates the beach. Thankfullya solution has been found at La Loma delPuerco beach, between the Riu Hotel and thenew Barcelo Hotel at Novo Sancti Petri. There’splenty of space to park and a wide walkwayleads down to the popular La Loma restaurantand bar. Nearby are sun loungers with sturdy,straw-roofed parasols. It makes for a com -fortable beach experience that even my wifecan enjoy. Tony Summers, managing director.(Tony’s beautiful wife is of course Kelly Summers,who organises the magazine’s advertising)

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the construction of theGiralda in Seville – and the ambience isstill very much that of Al-Andalus. Thesite of the original mezquita, ormosque, that was later converted intothe chapel of Santa Maria la Real hasbeen beautifully restored to its formersimplicity – an octagonal stone hall witha cupola and a mihrab, complete withdelicate fountain at its entrance.

The mezquita leads out to the Patiode Armas (parade ground) which inturn leads out to the formal gardens.Both have tall, rich green cypress treeswhich lend the grounds a regal air. Thegardens are prettily laid out with neatborders surrounded by low hedges,ponds filled with goldfish and plenty offountains providing a calmingsoundtrack.

Alcázar jerez de la Frontera

Few could accuse Andalucía of beingshort in cultural wonders. Tourists flockto see the Alhambra in Granada, theReal Alcázar in Seville and theMezquita in Córdoba – the big hitters inthe ‘golden triangle’. Far less is madeof the little gem on our doorstep, theAlcázar in Jerez.

Tucked away behind the bustlingPlaza de Arenal and next to theGonzalez Byass bodega, this formerfortress and palace is a haven oftranquillity.

Although the castle walls cover alarge area the actual entrance is on theAlameda Vieja, not far from the bodegaand the city’s cathedral.

The Alcázar was built in the 12thcentury by the Almohads – the Islamicdynasty which was also responsible for

Have a seat on one of the numerouswrought iron benches and take it all in.

On the far side of the gardens arethe atmospheric Arab baths. As youwalk down into and through what wereonce the cold, warm and hot rooms itis easy to imagine the scenes therehundreds of years ago – they were verywell preserved and have beensympathetically restored.

The largest building in the Alcázarcomplex is the Palacio de Villaviencio.This 18th century, ochre coloured,handsome building is home to thecity’s camera obscura – an additionalattraction well worth visiting.

The palace was once a luxury hotelbut now houses a smattering of artalong with the furniture and contents ofwhat was once the town’s municipalpharmacy. The camera obscura – oneof only four in Spain – is at the top ofthe building and groups are taken atspecific times (check at the entranceto the Alcázar).

The room is darkened and thereflective light and mirror systemopened in order to beam live imagesof Jerez’s rooftops onto what looksvery much like a satellite dish.Gasps of delight escape as yousnoop on people going about theirbusiness in Jerez’s streets – eventhe sight of a pigeon landing on thecathedral is a source ofexcitement.

The guide gives you a good lookaround various parts of the citypointing out all notable and interestingareas and buildings – even the ‘BeverlyHills’ of Jerez, as she called it.

There’s also a bird’s eye view of LaCartuja monastery and, beyond it, themarshes and lakes. And, of course,this being Jerez, there are vineyards asfar as the artificial eye can see.Helen Purvis_________________________________Alcázar de Jerez, AlamedaVieja. Tel: 956 326 923.

Open Mon-Sat 10-6pm;Sunday 10-3pm. €3 or €5,40 toinclude camera obscura;seniors and children over 7:€1,80 or €4,20; children under 7: free

The old Arab bathsand gardens at the

Alcázar in Jerez,where there is also

one of only fourcamera obscura in

Spain

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hired from here for €12 each, but bookahead and take a puncture repair kitand pump with you. We cycled the22km to Estación de Coripe where weate a delicious and substantial lunch oflocal meats and postres de la casa. Theprice for four adults and two childrenwas about €65; make sure you bookahead on high days and holidays.

You can then continue to completethe additional 14km to the station atPuerto Serrano, which also servesexcellent food. There are helpful staffemployed by Via Verde to contact incase of accident or difficulty along theway.

The cycleway is relatively flat and thechildren in our party (12 and eight yearsold) had no trouble completing the44km trip to Coripe and back. There areexcellent picnic stops along the way.

The many attractions include 30tunnels of varying lengths (one of themis a kilometre long), the biggest nesting

Vía VerdecyclingSierra de Cádiz

For a vigorous yet adventurouscommunion with nature, a trip to the VíaVerde de la Sierra would be hard to beat.

The old railway line between Almargenand Jerez, approved under the Primo deRivera dictatorship in the 1920s, wasnever fully completed. De Rivera’s loss isour gain; the section between PuertoSerrano and Olvera is now a beautifullyrestored 36km stretch of cycleway andwalks in an area that straddles verdantfarming and stunning mountainlandscapes. The original station buildingshave also been converted into excellentventas, where you can stay overnight.

We started at the Estación de Olverajust outside the town; bikes can be

colony of griffon vultures in Andalucía,superb views of the Reserva Naturaldel Peñón de Zaframagón and severalviaducts.

Emerging from the many tunnels,you are met by panoramic views, wildflowers, dancing butterflies and (if youare lucky) nightingale song. David MacGowan________________________________Fundación Via Verde de laSierra. Tel: 956 136 372fundacionviaverdedelasierra.comOther useful numbersBicycle hire: 655 526 716;Estación de Coripe: 620 013 708;Estación de Olvera: 661 463 207;Estación de Puerto Serrano:956 177 144/615 084 252.Hotel Sierra y Cal, Calle NuestraSeñora de los Remedios, 2.Doubles from €58. Tel: 956 130 303/956 130 542.e-mail: [email protected]

The Via Verde nearOlvera was to havebeen a railway but isnow a perfect routefor cycling andwalking throughsome of the mostspectacular scenery


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READER'S RECOMMENDATION26

Having been season ticket holders at aPremiership football club for 12 years, wemissed watching the game first hand, so wedecided to have a look at Chiclana CF,contesting regional group 10 of the Spanishthird division.

We ventured in to the municipal stadiumnear the Guardia Civil headquarters and next tothe river. I was pleasantly surprised to find thatwomen are half price and, along withpensioners and children, pay only €8.

We had found very little information on theclub (there is no website, for example), beforewe saw the teams appearing on the pitch so wedidn’t know who to support. It took us 20minutes, listening to the crowd, to ascertainthat our team played in a white strip with blueand red patches.

The following week, the B team played. Wesat all smug, only to find that neither team waswearing white and we had to go through thesame process of keeping quiet until we knewwhich team we were supporting. Chiclana Bwere playing in red.

We’re still not much wiser about the teambecause they don’t display names on the backof their shirts and the press are the only peopleprivileged to have information about the team.So I have resorted to jotting down names,because the players are announced as theyleave the tunnel and we have worked out ourown system – for example, the one with thepony tail always has the No 5 shirt and so on.

We also learnt that it is a Spanish traditionto eat nuts and throw the kernels onto the floor.Glad I’m not the person who sweeps up!

I have to say there has never been a dullmoment and we have become quite addicted, ifnot for the incidents on the pitch, then certainlyfor the ones off it. For example, when a teamscores we sit in wonder at the little girl whomethodically climbs the scoreboard structureto change the numbers. I’m sure they wouldn’tallow it in England.

At the end of our first match a member of thecrowd walked onto the pitch and startedfighting with the opposition manager. Thefollowing week, the referee tripped and injuredhis leg. In order to complete the match he tookthe assistant’s flag and hobbled up and downthe line while the assistant took over as referee.

This was fine until he awarded a penalty andwas mobbed by the players, resulting in twoplayers being sent off. The next home matchwas almost completed when we had a powerfailure and waited 15 minutes for thefloodlights to come back on.

I’m sure they only have a ‘magic sponge’ atOld Trafford, but here it is a magic water bottlethat has cured all aches from head down totoes. My Spanish must be improving, as Irecently clearly understood the chants ofseveral supporters, wishing the referee’sshower was in cold water.

It took many weeks before we witnessed aChiclana home win in a local derby against SanFernando, but the atmosphere was terrific and atthe end, the team stood in a group applaudingthe crowd for their passionate support.

At the end of the season, we were left sittingon the edge of our seats, as they battled toavoid relegation. In one match alone, four

players were sent off, four penalties wereawarded but due to their inability to score frompenalties, Chiclana still lost.

The final outcome at the end of the seasonresulted in disappointment for all thesupporters, as the team was relegated to alower division. To add insult to injury, in thecoming season they will play in the sameleague as their inter-town rivals, ChiclanaIndustrial.

But hope springs eternal and as withsupporters of all relegated teams, we will bethere for the new season to cheer them on.

So if you ever fancy sitting in the warmevening air, being entertained for a couple ofhours early on a Sunday evening, you’ll alwaysfind us sitting in the ‘tribuna’. Old habits diehard and my husband is the one in theManchester United hat. Perhaps you’re alreadythere and could help shed light on the lack ofclub information, or even help us start an Englishlanguage branch of Chiclana supporters club!

Fixtures are listed in the ‘Agenda’ bookletavailable from the Chiclana tourist informationoffice or the weekly newspaper ‘ChiclanaInformación’._______________________________________Do you have a favourite place in orexperience of the province you’d like to share with other laluz readers?

It doesn’t have to be a town or village – itcould be a beach, a bar, a monument orsimply a favourite view E-mail around 600words to: [email protected] or post tolaluz magazine, Apdo de Correos 39, 11150Vejer de la Frontera, Cádiz

Why I love… Chiclana CF Janice Bird has swapped the ‘Theatre of Dreams’ for the pure theatreof relegated Chiclana CF but her love of football is as strong as ever

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A TOWN LIKE | BARBATE28

Barbate at work and at play:Boats in the river estuary (belowleft and right) and the fishermenrepairing their nets are areminder of the importance offishing for Barbate. The peopleof the town are noisy and lively,for example at the fiesta for theVirgen del Carmen in July whencrowds gather to watch the localyouth compete in rowing racesand a greased pole competition.

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Where to goHotel AdiafaOn the seafront, winner of aprovincial tourism award for2007. Avda. Ruíz de Alda, 1.Tel: 956 454 060adiafahoteles.com

El Capitán RestaurantCafé-restaurant on the marinaat the Los Caños de Meca end

of Barbate. Magnificent viewsand generous gins and tonic.Bilingual. Quite smart. Tel: 956 432 193

Deep BarbateGood value tapas bar withfresh fish a specialty.Frequented by Barbateños.

Peña el CartuchoAvda Rodríguez de Valcárcel. A hunters’ bar specialising ingame.

Peña el AtúnAvda Rodríguez de Valcárcel

Bar FrasquitoAvda Ruíz de Alda. Old stylebar with patio.

Bar El SitioCalle Cervantes. Open air bar.View is nothing special buttapas makes up for it.

Barbate Tourist OfficeAvda José Antonio 23. Tel: 956 433 962.

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Jacqueline Johnson bought her house in Barbate, almost bychance, a couple of years before retiring.

After a life devoted to teaching in London and Wales, she wanted tofind somewhere in Andalucía that she could escape to in the winter.She took a look at the Costa del Sol but thought it looked like a sea ofconcrete. Then someone told her about a place near the Straits ofGibraltar that had untouched beaches and was barely built up.

Without a moment’s hesitation she drove to Zahara de los Atuneswhere the first estate agent she found showed her photographs of ahouse in the countryside near Barbate. Twenty four hours later she hadsigned the contract for a house that was surrounded by desertedbeaches, fields of horses, marshland and pine woods and had views ofthe African coast.

It was clear to Jacqueline from the start that Barbate differed inmany ways from other towns in the area, mainly because of the largeamount of land that comes under the town’s jurisdiction – 25km ofcoast that stretches from Zahora (next to El Palmar) almost to Zahara.

The mouth of the Barbate River is a natural port and a community offisherman has lived on its shores since Phoenician times. The Romanscalled the settlement Portus Baessipo, and set up an important factoryon the site that produced garum – a sauce made from a base of saltedfish and aromatic herbs that was popular at the time throughout theMediterranean.

The ermitas (chapels) of San Ambrosio and San Paulino areevidence of the presence of Visigoths in the area. They were driven outby the Moors who built Barbat Castle – no longer standing but whichgave the town its name.

From the 13th century onwards, following the Reconquest, thevillage of Barbate was administered by Vejer. Then, in 1938, in the thickof Civil War, the village gained its independence from its neighbour andwas renamed Barbate de Franco in honour of the generalisimo whokept a property here - still known by the locals as la casa embrujada orthe haunted house.

The dictator’s passion for building enormous monuments was toBarbate’s benefit and in 1950 the town got a new port which, for thenext 30 years, turned it into an important fishing centre. In its heydaythe port provided mooring for hundreds of fishing boats – their crewswould fish along the Moroccan coast and their catch generatedenough work for a dozen canning factories.

Spain’s transition to democracy and its entry into the EuropeanUnion meant that Spanish fishermen were obliged to stop fishing inMoroccan waters.

The government paid subsidies to fisherman who agreed to de-rigtheir boats but slowly they abandoned the sea. The factories closedand today only one remains. The town’s magnificent cinemas, with theirred boxes and crystal lampshades, have also closed their doors.

In a few years, Barbate went from being a comfortably off town to aplace that had lost its main source of income. While neighbouring

towns concentrated on the construction industry, Barbate’s hopes offollowing suit were impeded by the surrounding natural park.

It’s still a mystery to Jacqueline why Barbate is so little known andwhy it has been so undeveloped by the tourist industry. However, shehas noticed a growing number of people over the last five years –especially kite surfers on the beach at weekends. And when she takesa walk on the marshes these days she often comes across birdwatchers.

Whenever her friends come to visit her they take full advantage ofthe lack of light pollution, get out their telescopes and lose themselvesin the blanket of stars filling the sky that unites Europe and Africa.

There’s earthly beauty here too, in the shape of the protected zoneof El Parque Natural de la Breña y Marismas del Barbate – a vast mixof pine woods, eucalyptus and Mediterranean brushwood includingjuniper, rosemary, lentiscus and sabina.

Jacqueline finds the Barbateños noisy and lively people who like tojoin in and are naturally predisposed to laughter. Even though theiraccent is not easy to understand and her Spanish is not quite fluent,she has gradually become integrated into community life with both herneighbours and the town in general.

Early in the mornings she likes to go down to the port to see whatthe multi-coloured baskets hold. Sometimes the fishermen give hersardines and mackerel and, if she is in luck and there are spider crabs;she buys two for her lunch – accompanied by a good, oak-maturedwhite wine.

The food market still surprises her with its stalls of colourful spices,the smell emanating from the churro stand, the display of fish andseafood and the general uproar amongst the oranges, tomatoes,wonderful fruit and a thousand aromatic herbs.

The traders who do not have a permanent stall position themselvesaround the market with their baskets. In January there are sea urchins,in February wild asparagus, in April and May snails, in the summerprickly pears, in September green olives and in November mushroomsand tagarninas, the golden thistle plant that is a speciality in localdishes.

This year Jacqueline was invited to the procession of the Virgen delCarmen in July. The Virgen del Carmen is the patron saint of sailors andthere is not a single boat in Barbate that is not full of images of her.

On this one day each year, the effigy of the Virgin, which is normallykept inside the church, is carried down to the port where the boats ofBarbate have been decorated with colourful flags and are filled withentire families who have come to celebrate the Virgin.

In the midst of the fireworks, hymns, palms and flowers flung in tothe sea, Jacqueline could feel, without any need for language or wordsin common, the enormous connection between this village and theforces of nature.

Translation: Carmen Berlín

Not just any oldport in a stormSusana Mato talks to an outsider who has never regretted her hasty decision to buyinto this very Spanish town

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Did you always want to be dancer?When I was six I was already dancing all daylong, so my mother signed me up at the VickyRamos dance academy in Jerez. When I was 19, Iwas still there and keeping my options open. I’dstarted a business studies course, but I decidedto drop out so I could study with flamencodance maestro Manuel Betanzos in Seville. Itwas a hard decision. There’s no guaranteedliving to be made from flamenco – but it’s what Ilove and I had to give it a proper go. To succeedyou’ve got to work hard every day at perfectingyour steps and your style. And you’ve got tolearn from a real maestro like Manuel. He reallytransforms you and brings out the best in you.

Did success come straight away?No. Even though I felt I was really improving asa dancer, in my first year in Seville I didn’t findany work. A lot of it’s down to luck. You traipsearound the tablaos handing in your CV in thehope that they’re looking for someone. I got abit down, but I didn’t throw in the towel. I hadgreat support from my mother. It’s not what shewould have chosen for me, but she helped outwith the rent when I was struggling. It can be an

expensive career – you’ve got dresses, shoes,flowers and earrings to buy on top of your basicliving expenses.

What’s a normal day like?Stressful. On an average day this year I’ve beenup at 8am, grabbed breakfast, then headed offto the academy to practice. After that I put in anhour or two of tuition (I teach young girls andgive private lessons to adults). Then back to theacademy for another session before going homefor lunch. In the evening, teaching again forthree hours till 8pm, then I’d try and squeeze ina session at the gym to do some staminatraining and back exercises. Then back home fora very quick shower and a bite of supper on thehoof, do my make-up and hair and head off towork. This last year I’ve been working at El Lagádel Tío Parrilla in Jerez. On weekdays once theperformance ended (around midnight) I’d gohome. At the weekend, I’d often head off afterwork to a club and stay out till the early hoursdancing. I’ll dance to anything – salsa, RickyMartin, summer hits. And I’ll dance anywhere.I’ve been dancing on the balcony here in Conil. Ijust can’t stop. My body needs it.

Tell us about this latest role I saw they were doing auditions in May andwent along thinking there was no way I’d getselected. For one thing I’m blonde and pale,which is a disadvantage for a flamenco dancer.For another it’s a prestigious production with afamous star as male lead and choreographer –El Junco. I won through to the final 10 and thenon the last day they said they’d let us know in aweek’s time. By the time they rang and told meI’d got it, I was in a real state. I still can’tbelieve it. I’m in the clouds: I’m on hometerritory, with my own people, working in agreat show with people I really admire. Icouldn’t ask for more.

________________________________________Beatriz appears in ‘Las Calles de Cádiz’ at theGran Teatro Falla in Cádiz on September 6th,7th & 8th. The show is a new version of thefamous one created in the 1930s by the Cádiz-born composer, Manuel de Falla, the poetFederico García Lorca and the renownedflamenco dancer, ‘La Argentinita’ (Encarnación López Júlvez). Tickets & details - Tel: 956 220 894

A DAY IN THE LIFE30

A passion for danceJerez-born flamenco dancerBeatriz Morales may be onthe verge of a breakthrough.She’s studied hard and paid herdues – in tablaos in Seville andJerez and on tours to Germany(where she suffered home -sickness), Sardinia (where shesuffered cockroaches and aflimsy mattress) and Shanghai.Now she’s just landed a role in aprestigious new show thatopens at the Gran Teatro Falla inCádiz in September. laluzcaught up with her while shewas taking a rare week offin Conil

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WILD SIDE32

For amateur nature lovers and seriousornithologists alike, the late summer andautumn bird migration through the province isa fantastic spectacle.

And at this time every year, when the greatmigration pathways of the world come alive,the Straits of Gibraltar witness a constant flowof bird movement south.

This all takes place right on our doorstepand is an amazing sight to witness, with hugenumbers of birds crossing between the IberianPeninsula and northern Africa.

Roughly 650,000 birds representing morethan 80 species will pass over our heads. Ofthese, some 190,000 will be raptors.

By late August each year most of us willhave noticed the start of the migration withhuge flocks of white storks and the lesscommon black storks spiraling in the clear,warm air.

This behaviour tells us that something’safoot. Along the rice fields and canal ditches ofthe ancient lagoon of La Janda, thousands of

white storks feed up on crayfish, frogs andlarger insects, converting their intake to fatreserves for their precarious flight south of theSahara.

Black kites arrive from all over southernEurope and feed as best they can on road-kill,snakes, young birds, frogs – in fact they’ll takeanything that’s edible and remain one of theworld’s most opportunistic and enterprisingbirds of prey with huge ‘old world’ distributionand population.

By the first three weeks in September themigration is in full swing with lots of differentspecies moving south – many of them raptorsor birds of prey.

Booted Eagles – the smallest of ourEuropean Eagles – and the larger winged short-toed eagles are joined by sparrowhawks, honeybuzzards and Egyptian vultures. Griffonvultures are mostly non-migrants but do tendto follow other birds flying south during thismass movement, which continues untilOctober.

Raptors, more than any other family of birds,exhibit massive, visible and far-rangingmigrations, while their diversity and abundancein many places are crucial indicators of thehealth of our fragile ecosystems.

The meeting of the continents of Europe andAfrica is a critical global crossroads for thefascinating and interconnected phenomena ofbird migration.

Bird behaviour is one indicator of globalwarming and our continuous climate change.Man’s actions have a persistent influence onnumbers and distribution of all creatures.

From our first days as farmer-gatherers,through to the intense industrial agriculturalprocess of the present day, man has constantlyand dramatically changed the physicallandscape and molded vast wild areas to suitour species.

Just as man has to adapt to severe droughtand equally devastating floods each year birds,too, are under immense pressures to adapt andcope the best they can.

Continental driftStephen Daly explains the why, how and where of the annual autumn spectacular whenthousands of birds cross from Europe to Africa

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The Straits of Gibraltar (aboveat Bolonia) are the busiestmigratory path for birds in theworld with (clockwise from topleft) the honey buzzard,booted eagle, rare black storkand short-toed eagle passingoverhead in their hundreds.

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Each winter sees higher numbers of whitestorks as well as booted eagles, wintering inAndalucía without the need to source food inwarmer Africa. This assuredly is a clearindicator of our uninterrupted and acceleratingglobal warming.

Parties of migrant birds tend to sticktogether on their migration, joining up enroute, and can be seen anywhere on theAtlantic seaboard as well as inland.

The birds that travel overland primarily usenatural physical features to navigate, such asvalleys and rivers that lead to the coast.

Other navigational abilities that are still notfully explained, include navigation by sun andstars, magnetic energy from the earth and theability to smell microscopic particles in the airthat relate to the area in their winteringdestination or their place of birth.

But the coast from Cape St Vincent inPortugal right down to Gibraltar has atremendous amount of migration activity.

Booted eagles and honey buzzards tend to

go for the crossing down on The Straits towardsAlgeciras, whereas Egyptian vultures tend tocross at the shortest point between the twocontinents close to Tarifa.

A great deal depends on what the weatherconditions are like when the migrants arrive onthe south coast and take the first major hurdleof crossing an open stretch of sea. The windand sea currents can be treacherous andpresent an extremely dangerous challenge forbirds large and small alike.

Birds leaving Europe during a very strongeasterly (levante) cannot tell visually that thewind strength increases in the centre of theStraits, and an additional problem is that thereare no thermals over the sea to assist birds.Sheer muscle power, determination and greatenergy reserves are required under suchcircumstances.

Some migrants inevitable get blowncompletely off course out into the Atlantic, pastMorocco’s Cape Espartel and are unable tomake landfall and perish.

Westerly winds, known as ponientes arekinder and pose less of a danger.

Where to goClose to the coast, are the main migrationwatchpoints manned each year from the end ofJuly until October by volunteers who monitorand record the numbers of birds of prey andblack storks. The main observation posts are allclose to the main N340 (A5) coastal road. Justeast of the town of Tarifa at km87 is Tráfico andCazalla is just off km90.7 Algorrobo is atkm99.1, west of Algeciras.

If you intend visiting any of these mannedstations, which are open to the public, pleasetake care of traffic which can be heavy and donot turn across the double white lines in thecentre of the road but travel further to turn andcome back on the correct side of the road._______________________________________Stephen Daly of Andalucian Guides runs birdingand wildlife tours. See andalucianguides.comor Tel: 956 432 316/647 713 641

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A light and airy 2 bed apartmentin a quiet street inthe centre of Jerez.Fully fitted kitchenand bathroom,optional furniture,and a lovely 35 m2

private sun terrace.Located within atraditional flamenconeighbourhood.

JEREZ CENTRE (ref JER001)€140,000+IVA

Jerez Centre (ref JER001)€140,000+IVA

Beautifully presented Cortijo on 1.7 hectares. 4 bedrooms,2 bath rooms, courtyard, stunning lounge and farmhouse kitchen. 330m2.swimming pool, wonderful views. Rare opportunity to buy a completelylegal rural property.

Arcos (ref JER004)€600,000+IVA

Amazing 16th Century palace in the centre of Jerez. 1100 m2, fullyrestored with many original features. Rooftop apartment and 2 storey tower,2 gardens and garage. Lots of bedrooms, bathrooms, large attic room, idealfor conversion into further accommodation. The property comes with a garageand 2 patio gardens. This is a unique property even by Jerez standards.

Jerez Centre (ref JER007)€1,339,000

Arcos GardensG O L F & C O U N T R Y C L U B

Lowest density development in Andalucia. Only 5% build over the440 acre Estate• Arcos Gardens includes 470 exclusive homes from 2 bedroomTownhouses to 3-5 bedroom Villas featuring fairway, white village andcountryside views. • Gated community with 24hr security and independentalarm systems. • Landscaped gardens and managed protection of allindigenous plants and all other flora and fauna within the Estate. • Recreation facilities including Swimming, Tennis, Spa Treatments,Equestrian Centre, Nautical Club, Fitness Gym. • World-class Golf Coursedesigned by Landmark Land accompanied by prestigious Members ClubHouse – Limited release of Golf Membership now available. • SimonHolmes Golf Academy together with some of the finest practice facilities inEurope • Onsite boutique hotel with restaurants serving exquisite local andinternational food and wine.

From

only

€354

,400

+IVA

La NoriaV E J E R D E L A F R O N T E R A

We have just released the 2 final phases on this very populardevelopment in Vejer. • 3 Bedrooms, Family bathroom, Shower room, Lounge/Diner, Kitchen,front and rear terraces. Rooftop solarium and communal pool.• All properties have pre-installation of air-conditioning, Porcelanosatiles, double glazed windows, top quality construction. Optionalunderground car parking available.

We believe these to be the best value new build propertiesavailable in Vejer

From

only

£149

,557

+IVA

Converted Bodega.Stunning conversion of anold bodega, situated in theCasco Historico. 3 bedrooms,1 en-suite bathroom and 2 further shower rooms.Fitted kitchen, lots ofexposed beams and stone -work. Shared courtyard patioand rooftop sun terrace.Finished in a contemporarystyle, this apartment alsocomes with an undergroundparking space.

Jerez (ref JER003) €312,200

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IVA IVA

IVA

GuadalsurL E B R I J A

If you are looking for the next “in-place” Lebrija pushes all theright buttons. Only 20 mins from Jerez, 40 mins from Seville & Cadiz. The beaches of Sanlucar are only 25mins away. Train & bus station.• Bedroom, 2 bath (1 en-suite) + WC, lounge/diner, kitchen, utility roomand both covered and open terraces.• Within walking distance of the beautiful main square of Lebrija,Guadalsur offers unbeatable value for money. These prices are around€100,000 less than you would pay in Jerez or Seville.

Only 6 left at these prices and then developer is raising the price

Small project (nearing completion) of 5 luxury apartments

• Top spec • Central patio • Rooftop solariums • A/C• Great location• Viewingrecommended

Jerez Historic Centre From

€218,904

Our passion is property

Plaza MirabalH I S T O R I C C E N T R E – J E R E Z D E L A F R O N T E R A

Unique opportunity to buy a 1 or 2 bed apartment in the “CascoHistorico”. Built to a high standard and situated in a lovely Plaza, thisproject typifies the trend for mixing new with old. The front of the old“grand” house will be kept, thus retaining the style and elegance of thepast yet with brand new properties built to 21st century standards.

Great investment potential and only 8 properties for sale– so hurry

From

only

£79,5

91

From

only

£92,9

93

On display is just a small section of our extensiveportfolio. For further information please contact

us on one of the following numbers. We look forward to being of service to you.

+34 956 329 572 (Jerez)+34 956 455 075 (Vejer)

+44 (0) 1491 574 807 (UK)

[email protected]

Jerez Office: Calle Porvera, 31 • Jerez de la Frontera, 11403 Cadiz

A very well presented 3 bed, 2 bath townhouse.Large kitchen leading towell proportioned backporch and sun terrace.Large front terrace withviews over open country -side. Fully furnished to ahigh standard. Only 15mins to sea and close tofuture golf course.

Medina Sidonia (ref MS003)€185,000+IVA

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From left, above: The magnificent Sierra de Cazorla natural park;the façade of the Hospitalde Santiago; the PlazaVázquez de Molina

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Standing in Úbeda’s Plaza Vázquez de Molina it would beeasy to imagine the Moors had never set foot in southern Spain.Granada, Seville, Córdoba and countless other towns and cities havetheir alcázares and gardens as a constant reminder of that heritage.But Úbeda owes more to Renaissance Italy and its stunningmonumental square to Florence in particular.

Actually, this small city deep in Jaén province, crammed withelegant 16th century churches, palaces and public buildings oweseverything to the vision of one man and the skills of another. Franciscode los Cobos was the man with big dreams and bigger pockets, theÚbeda-born private secretary to King Carlos I. Andrés de Vandelvirawas, literally, the architect of his master’s imagination.

From the austere Palacio de las Cadenas on one side of the squareto the riotous façade of the Sacra Capilla del Salvador on the other,Vandelvira’s hand is everywhere. Andalucian by birth, but trained in thenorth and in Italy, his use of the local, sandy-white granite suggests ahappy marriage of style and material his Castillian contemporariescouldn’t match.

The Palacio del Dean Ortega sits on the north of the square,outsized tethering rings flanking a set of steps leading up to anexquisite patio. This is the place to reflect on Vandelvira’s genius – andto raise a glass to him. It’s now a Parador hotel and you can sit in thepatio amid the supermodel-thin supporting pillars, flicking through amenu big on game as you sip a glass of fino.

Úbeda may be a model of Renaissance style and town planning,but the locals are untrammelled by their surroundings. They have theclimate for eating out all year round and they love to make the most ofit. Every street boasts a clutch of restaurants, and every third shop is apastelería.

Vandelvira may have made his name with the Plaza Vázquez deMolina, but he perfected his craft elsewhere in the city. The streets of

the old town are peppered with buildings bearing his imprint. Alldisplay their calm, classical outlines like the señoritos, or gentlemenÚbeda was renowned for in the years after the Moors were expelled.

That aloofness has vanished now. This is a welcoming, open city,perhaps because, with nearby Baeza, it sits isolated in the middle of ahuge tapestry of tiny green dots, the millions of olive trees which haveserved Jaén so well through the centuries and damned her in times ofdrought and crop failure.

Vandelvira might have smiled at the casual attitude to his greatestwork, the Hospital de Santiago, which looms over the shopping areaof the new town. Known as ‘Andalucia’s Escorial’, it may not matchFelipe II’s vast monastery-palace near Madrid, but its grand, near-featureless frontage pays homage to other-wordly matters.

Only yards away, it’s the world of commerce which holds sway.Stalls line the old hospital’s front courtyard, selling cheap jewellery,football shirts, belts and, of course, pastries. Inside, the grid ofquadrangles has been converted into a cultural centre and studentssprawl happily and lazily on its benches drinking iced coffee.

The streets around the Hospital de Santiago echo with Úbeda’scontemporary heartbeat. Clothes shops fight for frontage with thoseselling leather goods – especially shoes and bags, which are locallymade and classy but cheap. And everywhere, you can buy thegreenest olive oil.

And then there are the ceramics, Úbeda’s specialty for a thousandyears and more. Where all Andalucía makes pots, plates and jugs infloral designs or shades of blue, Úbeda goes its own way. Maybe it’sout of deference to the humble olive, which impacts on every family inthis city of 60,000 people, but you can buy pottery in any hue orcolour as long as it’s green.

Calle Valencia, a 15 minute walk east of the city centre, is theartesans’ quarter, and very well kept and marketed it is, too. One

Robert Friedlander discovers a glorious slice of Renaissance Italy marooned in theolive groves of Jaén province


Outpost of elegance

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WEEKENDER | ÚBEDA38

Where to stayParador Condestable Dávalos One of the state-run chain’s big stars with astunning location and top notch restaurant.Plaza de Vázquez Molina. Tel: 953 750 345paradores.es

Palacio de la Rambla Close the door of this 16th century mansionand you could be miles from anywhere. Astunning, peaceful patio and eight rooms fullof character. One of Vandelvira’s best, andrun by the same noble family it was built for.Plaza del Marqués de la Rambla, 1. Tel: 953 750 196 palaciodelarambla.com

Hotel Ordóñez Sandoval A 17th century mansion, recently opened as ahotel and, again, run by the family of theoriginal owners. Calle Antonio Medina, 1.Tel: 953 795 187 hotelordonezsandoval.com

Where to eatEl Seco Tucked away behind the the Plaza deAyuntamiento, good value and hearty.Unusually heavy on vegetables and fruit. Calle Corazón de Jesús, 8 Tel: 953 791 472

María de Molina Attached to a friendly hotel on one of thecity’s most pleasant squares. Good service

and lots of local specialties like kid leg anddeer loin. Plaza de Ayuntamiento. Tel: 953 795 356

Mesón Barbacoa Three salons and wall-to-wall farmimplements in a restaurant doubling as anagricultural museum. Sucking pig, kid anynumber of ways, lots of fish and a long, livelywine list. Calle San Cristóbal 17. Tel: 953 790 473

Tourist officesUbeda’s tourist office is at Calle Baja delMarqués off the Plaza del Ayuntamiento. Tel: 953 750897. Mon-Sat, 8am-3pm

name dominates the pottery trade – Tito. There are seven differentmembers of the same extended family in the business, though theundisputed master is Paco Tito.

A calm, smiling man in his sixties, Paco welcomes even the mostham-fisted tourist into his studio and entrusts his precious wheel totheir hands for a quick lesson. Not that he’d let them touch thefinished products without buying.

Baeza, a few miles west, is like a scaled-down version of its bigsister. Half the size, and with less 16th century clout, Baeza waspossessed of a town council with aspirations. Friendly rivalry dictatedthat Úbeda’s lead must be followed, so Vandelvira was called in on hisdays off and the public purse funded a building programme centredaround the Plaza del Populo. The cathedral, the old university, abishop’s palace and a fountain which has become the town’s symbolall sprung up at Vandelvira’s behest in the space of a dozen years.

Maybe the best reason to pop over to Baeza, though, is Juanito – arestaurant on the outskirts of town with an unprepossessing exteriorwhich belies the nouvelle cuisine on offer.

If Úbeda offers a glimpse of man’s best endeavours, nature canmatch them. Half an hour east of the city, beyond Cazorla, lies thenatural park of the same name.

Cazorla itself is a wacky little town, with winding streets and deadends everywhere. As the starting point for tours in the natural park, ittrumpets its many facilities on dozens of signs along the road intotown. The only one missing is the one which should say: ‘Park yourcar here. Driving is a nightmare’.

The natural park is breathtaking. Two mountain ranges, a vastreservoir, hotels and camping lodges, clifftop villages, eagles andvultures, wild boar, deer and moufflon, greenery, scenery, even thesource of the Guadalquivir river which flows all the way through Sevilleand out to sea at Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

Deep in the park there’s a Parador hotel with spectacular views andyou can watch the deer forage below as you sit on the terrace. Thebuilding itself is functional Seventies at its most typical – rectangular,bleak, uninspired. Not Vandelvira’s glass of fino at all.

Vandelvira’sinfluence is

apparent in everycorner of Úbeda’s

city centre

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laluz readers’ survey

SECTION A: About you1 Are youMale Female

2 Are youUnder 25 25-34 35-44 45-54 55-64 65 or older

3 Are youSingle Married Divorced Living with partner

4 Where is your principal residence? Spain UK Please state which area you live in

5 If you live in UK, do you have a second home in Spain?Yes No

6 Do you workYes No

If yes, do you workFull time (30 hrs + per week) Part time (less than 30 hrs per week)

Are youSelf-employed Housewife/husband Retired Other Please state

7 How many children do you have?None 1 2 3+

8. How many children under 18 do you have living at home?None 1 2 3+

9 Does your home have a broadband connection to the internet?Yes No

10 Apart from laluz, where else do you find information about the provinceof Cádiz? Please specify

11 How’s your Spanish?Poor Good Fluent

SECTION B: laluz magazine12 How often do you read laluz?Occasionally Often Every issue

13 What do you do with your copy of laluz once you’re read it?Keep it Pass it on Throw it away

14 What would you like to see more or less of in laluz in the future?Features about the history and culture of the areaMore Less About right

Practical ideas and information about what to see and do More Less About right

Property newsMore Less About right

Homes and InteriorsMore Less About right

Real life stories and people profilesMore Less About right

Local newsMore Less About right

Expert opinions/adviceMore Less About right

Practical information about living and working hereMore Less About right

GardeningMore Less About right

Walks and natureMore Less About right

Food and restaurant reviewsMore Less About right

What’s OnMore Less About right

15 What do you like best about laluz and what do you like least?

16 What’s missing?

17 Any other comments:

SECTION C: Your details. All personal data will be treated as confidential

Forms should be sent by October 31st 2007 to:laluz magazine (Reader Survey). Apdo de Correos 3911150 Vejer de la Frontera. Cádiz – Spain

Alternatively download the form at laluzmag.com and e-mail it [email protected]

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Here’s your chance to win free tickets to a magical multi-media tour of one of Jerez’s top bodegas – and at the same timehelp us to give you more of what you want in laluz.

We’re carrying out a readers’ survey. It’s your magazine – so we need to know what you think of it: what you like, whatyou want to see more of, what’s missing. We’d really appreciate it if you took the time to fill out the form; either go to ourwebsite (laluzmag.com) and send the form by e-mail or fill in the form below and post it. The more responses we get, thebetter we can make the magazine.

All the completed forms will go into the laluz hat for a prize draw. And the first 20 to be pulled out will each win a pairof tickets to the spectacular tour of Bodegas Valdivia that we reviewed in Issue 18: Film, fun, sherry, tapas – and fairies!

freeBodegas*tour

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gardening

More common in the northernMediterranean, these shrubs are grown ingardens for their evergreen foliage and theirabundant red, orange or yellow berries, muchenjoyed by birds in autumn and winter. Whenleft, firethorn will grow up to six metres talland is armed with nasty spines; the leavesare usually a glossy green, and clusters ofsmall white flowers appear on the branches inspring. The berries are brighter when plantedin a sunny position, and although this plantadapts to a wide range of conditions, it mustbe kept well watered in summer. Whenpruning, bear in mind that berries come onthe second-year wood.

This beautiful, deciduous legume, nativeto China and Japan, is among the mostpopular plants for pergolas, admired for itslarge drooping displays of perfumed flowersand the summer shade of the soft, light greenfoliage. Wisterias like a sunny, shelteredposition in deep, humus rich soil. They aresurprisingly fussy and will grow readily insome positions, and in others not at all. Onceestablished, which can take some years, theybecome large, vigourous plants which needstrong support. Given ideal conditions, thevine can reach a height of 30m and, floweringin spring and early summer, often before theleaves appear, makes a magnificent sight.

As the name implies, this is a boisterousplant, ideally suited to pots, patios and semi-shade, for example under overhanging trees.Native to tropical Africa, they flower well in amyriad of colours all through summerprovided they are watered adequately andgiven protection from strong winds. Thegenus is enormous, and growth and methodsof propagation are varied.

Generally, growth does not exceed a heightand spread of 30cm, and the plant can beeasily propagated from stem cuttings inspring. If the plant is happy in itsenvironment, you will find that it will self-seed in neighbouring pots .

Stewart Pitcher trained inagriculture and was a farmmanager by profession beforestarting up his gardeningbusiness here several yearsago. He lives near Vejer

Busy Lizzie Impatiens

Pick of the bunch

WisteriaWisteria

PyracanthaPyracantha


One of the most divine rewards of gardening is picking and eating fresh,home-grown fruit straight from the tree. Watching your own fruit mature,looking forward to eating a particular orange or gorging on over-ripe figsare pleasures only available to the dedicated and patient gardener;growing fruit trees is a long-lasting, intimate affair.

Many kinds of fruit and nut trees are suitable for an average-sized garden.Although fruit trees tend to be low, nut trees, such as the walnut, can growinto beautiful shade trees.

Your choice of trees is dependent upon two main factors – location andsoil type. Try, if possible, to avoid planting in really exposed areas, as thewind will pull off the flowers and the tree will never fruit. Planting a mini-orchard creates a microclimate, which greatly extends the variety of fruit agarden can accommodate.

Pick your trees from a local garden centre as they are likely to havesuitable cultivars for this harsh climate; you could try nispero (Achraszapota), apple, pear, guayavo, fig, plums or almond on heavier land, or citrus fruits, kaki (diospyrus kaki, or persimmon), membrillo (cydoniaoblonga or quince), mulberry, nispero again, or walnut, where the soil issandier and lighter.

Where space is limited and an orchard is not possible, make espaliersfrom apples, plums and pears against a wall or fence. To do so, simply wirethe desired branches against the wall in the form you want then cut off theremaining branches each autumn. Continue removing the vertical watershoots as they appear( tip: if they are cut, they come back. If they are brokenoff where they sprout from the trunk, they do not). In time, the tree will get

stronger, and the chosen branches will thicken and bear fruit on the spurs,and the tree will have no further need for the support.

Grafting is another way of maximizing variety and yield from the garden.Keep like with like – oranges and lemons or limes; stoned fruits together,apples and pears etc. The only trouble you may find is one graft dominatesthe others and doesn’t allow an even development. A popular way round thisis to put three fruit trees in the same hole and let them grow together. Itoften makes an unusual conversation piece in the garden as it is prone tolopsided, chaotic growth and a long fruiting season.

The fruits of labour

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D Barnett, Facinas We have recently movedinto a house in the campo but we want toreplace what little grass that has survived tomake a proper lawn. What type of lawn do yourecommend (turf or seed), and how should weprepare the ground?As water is such a scarce commodity inAndalucía, the grass we choose must betolerant to hot, dry conditions. The seed mixesthat are available at good local garden centresare usually heat and drought resistant,although they do require high maintenancethroughout the year, and are prone to dying offin patches (which is often caused by anematode worm attacking the roots or tinycaterpillars eating the new shoots).

Although costly, turf is a quick and easysolution for a dense, weed-free lawn. Preparethe intended site well, install a good sprinklersystem and your new turf lawn should do well.It is fundamental that the turfs are wellwatered in, as they dry out and die veryquickly if the roots have not yet penetrated theprepared topsoil.

The local favourite for lawn cover is thestoic gramón. It differs from conventionalgrass in as much as it grows from self-rootingrunners, or stolons, which quickly cover theground with a hard-wearing, drought-tolerantlawn. It can survive on remarkably little water,once established it can be left to dry to ayellow dust between waterings! Its seeds are

infertile, so it is always planted laboriouslycutting by hand. The extra effort pays off - amature gramón lawn is the strongest, mosttolerant lawn around, and just gets better yearafter year.

Barbara Hutton, Conil Can you give me anytips about how to get rid of the many snails inmy garden - but without harming the rest ofthe wildlife which we enjoy so much? We evenhave nightingales nesting in our garden, so Ido want to be careful. This area is particularly prone to plagues ofsmall snails (theba pisana) which appear inforce with the onset of summer. Their sheernumbers mean that they are nearly impossibleto eradicate, but here are some ideas to helpkeep them off your plants:

They don’t like to move over sandy or grittyground. You can lay coarse sand or crushedshells around the most susceptible plants andtrees

Make a beer trap, the bottom of a plasticwater bottle buried up to its rim in the soil, halffull of cruzcampo. They love it! So much, infact, that they get drunk and drown happy.

Hand-picking. Get up early and hit infestedplants with a stick or shake over a bag ordustbin lid. The snails move and feed early in

the morning, and so are not yet glued inposition for the day’s sunbathing,and fall offmuch more easily. Repeated attempts give thebest results overall.

Predators. The most efficient snail-munchersare turkeys and ducks. Get one or borrow oneor two and they will follow you around thegarden, diligently pecking away at all withintheir reach.

Time. Don’t worry, the snails fade awaynormally during August, and by autumn theproblem they present is negligible. They lay theireggs and die, and their shells enrich the soil.

Barbara Hutton, Conil You have mentionedplanting parsnips in one of your previouscolumns, but I have not been able to find anyparsnip seeds - do you know of anywherelocally that sells them, and when is the besttime to plant them? Will I be in time to enjoythem roasted at Christmas?Parsnip seeds are best sourced in England orother northern European countries or over theinternet at sites such as tozerseeds.com, asthe plant is more readily grown in coolerclimates. Here, you can try sowing the seedsdirectly in well-prepared ground at the firstrains of autumn to harvest in the spring.Before sowing the seeds, soak them for 24hours to speed up their germination.

September This month is amongstthe driest of the year, and theplants around us are dusty andfatigued. Pay special attention tonew additions, provide them withshelter from the wind and makesure to water deeply to encouragethe roots to spread. Water by hand

particular areas of lawn thesprinklers may not get to, and fillany cracks that appear in theground.

Cuttings of shrubs and deciduoustrees tend to do well when taken inthis month, see issue 18 on how todo it.

September is harvest season -enjoy fresh peppers, aubergines,tomatoes, melons. Plant lettuce

and brassicas; leeks and onions;prepare the land for sowingpotatoes at the end of the month.

October With the intense heat ofthe summer gone and a winter’srain to look forward to, October is agood month for starting projects inthe garden. Plant seeds forwinter/spring flowers, takegeranium cuttings and divide root

balls of other perennials andgrasses. Feed the lawn with a lightdressing of 15:15:15 (the blueballs), and dig in manure when youprepare the borders for next year.Start to prune hedges and shrubsthat have finished flowering, andlook out for the return of aphids.

This month, sow potatoes,carrots and parsnips; broad beansand peas; cabbage and cauliflower.

Seasonal tips

42 GARDENING

Readers’ Queries

Readers are invited to share their gardening and design problems or ideas by sendingthem to [email protected] or Apdo de Correos 39, 11150 Vejer de la Frontera, Cádiz

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A touchof class

An American upbringing, lifewith the Italian glitterati and aspell in Bangkok have all lefttheir mark on actress-designerDebra Berger and her work, asshe tells Jenny Kean

44 HOMES & INTERIORS

Above: Debra Berger works with other artists to create individual pieces of work like this fireplace at the Valdevaqueros hotel near Tarifa.Opposite: Clockwise from top left: Warm terracotta walls in the bedroom; Debra had the iron staircase made specially by a local artesan (detailbottom left); a trompe l’oeil mural by Bertrand Guillou in her apartment in Vejer

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45

The first time Debra Berger visitedVejer de la Frontera, she drove into the mazeof narrow streets and parked her car next tothe Puerta Cerrada in the old Jewish quarter.“I stood outside what is now my house,looked up at the ancient archway andthought: ‘I’d love to live here.’ It took me twoyears to realise this was my house,” she sayswith a laugh.

Her arrival in Vejer seven years ago wasjust one stop along a journey that had takenher far from her native America – including toan Italian renaissance castle where she livedwith the renowned Prince Dado Ruspoli (thearistocrat who inspired Fellini’s film ‘La DolceVita’), and to Bangkok where she gave birthto one of the two sons she had with Dado.

“I’ve been lucky enough to live in somebeautiful places,” says Debra, “but Iimmediately fell in love with Vejer. It is unique. I

love the worn streets that tell their own story,the food, the people, the music in the streets,the welcome that you get here. There’s also awonderful creativity, so much potential tobuild and to create. That’s the Andalusianway, using the wealth of local materials. Soalthough I lived in Italy for many years, I didn’tfind that same inspiration and creativity.”

As an actress, potter and interior designer,creativity is important to Debra and she founda canvas for that artistic talent in her house inVejer. Buying it was a long drawn-out affair asit belonged to many different people. “At onepoint, I had to find birth certificates for peoplewho didn’t know when they were born,” she recalls.

The house was also a ruin, the walls rain-damaged and what is now the kitchen had adirt floor and a trough for feeding animals.

“The challenge was to find the original

structure, to reveal the flow of the house.”Several years on, the result is a home that isin keeping with its traditional roots – sand -wiched between the ancient town walls – andyet one that has its own unique imprint.

So Debra has kept the steeply pitched roofthat was once typical of houses in Vejer butwhich have mostly been replaced in favour offlat roof terraces. She found a plasterer,Aurelio Jover, who gave the walls theirirregular, rounded surface rather than themore uniform straight lines of today’s workers.From gypsies in Marbella she picked up anold studded wooden door which fitted exactlythe non-standard opening to her kitchen.

Yet overlying these traditional elements is apalette that is all her own. The bedroom wallsglow with a terracotta wash; a honey-tintedarchway frames a pair of turquoise painteddoors; a set of 1920s coloured glass tiles

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picked up in a flea market adorns the down -stairs bathroom; and everywhere the softcolours and contours of her ceramics anddecorations; “There are almost no straightlines in nature,” she explains.

The staircase that curves across the top ofthe main sitting room is a good example bothof Debra’s thoughtful use of space and of herdesire to work with other artisans and artists.She wanted to put in a mezzanine office butdidn’t want a supporting post to cut into theground space beneath. She was fortunate tofind Allan Angelo, a blackmith who hadbrought his family from France to Spain in ahorse and buggy. He came up with a systemof medieval-style wall supports and the curlingtendrils and leaves of the staircase now seemto grow up the wall of their own accord.

It was Allan who solved another problemtoo. Debra had suffered a break-in via her roofterrace, and friends told her she would simplyhave to install a security grille on the doorwayleading from her bedroom to the terrace.Dismayed at the idea of bars across the sky,Debra sketched out an arched door with acurving design based on the medieval symbolof well-being. Allan turned the design intoreality and also came up with an ingenioussecurity latch. “I love that doorway now. It’s agood example of a something that was aproblem becoming a jewel,” says Debra.

Perhaps it was this philosophy thatinspired her trademark fireplaces, bedheadsand wall decorations – curling plaster tendrilsof lime and marble dust inlaid with mosaics.“I’ve always loved functional art,” explainsDebra. “It was after the big earthquake in LosAngeles where I was living at the time, and alot of my pots had fallen off their shelves andbeen broken. I needed a fireplace so I usedthe broken shards to make a feature of it.”

Since then, Debra has worked with otherartists and designers on a number of hotelsalong the Costa de la Luz, including thePunta Sur and the Hurricane Hotel in Tarifa,

where she has just remodelled one of thebathrooms. The other outlet for her creativityis the clay from which she fashions huge potsand sculptural ceramics.

“I’m influenced by Dali and by Gaudi,” sheexplains, “but also by the countries andcivilisations I have come across. My father,William Berger, was a film actor so I spenttime with him on location in Italy and in Egypt.When I was 15, I left home in Los Angelesand went to pick grapes in Sicily. From there, Ihitchhiked through North Africa, and thenback to France where I was offered the lead inMarcel Carné’s film, ‘The Marvellous Visit’.”

Debra ended up in Rome where she metand fell in love with her handsome prince andbecame part of the beautiful people immor -talised by Fellini. She shows me a photo ofher and Prince Dado taken by Jack Nicholsonat Roman Polanski’s house. She acknow -ledges the enormous influence of Dado andher time with him. “I think we complementedeach other very well. His renaissance castle atVignanello and the formal Italian gardens wereso beautiful,” she recalls. “It’s all been a hugeinspiration to me.”

Debra still travels a lot – to Italy, to theStates where her sons live, to London. “It’sso important to step outside your own circleand open your eyes and ears to other places,other lives,” she says. She is now selling theVejer apartment she lived in until her newhouse was finished, and is looking to thefuture – more interior design work, shehopes, helping people to create living spaces“that are both creative and functional”. Andpossibly community projects using naturalelements and sustainability.

But she’s not making any firm plans. “Ithink everything that’s happened to me in mylife has happened because I was open to it.Like coming to Vejer – I hadn’t planned that,it just happened. Rather than seeing whereand when, I know more what I’m looking for.It’s a question of going with your inspiration.”

46

Address BookINTERIOR DESIGNDebra Berger is happy to take onindividual rooms or larger projects. Seedebraberger.net or [email protected]

HOUSE RENOVATION• José Manuel Sánchez Anel. Tel: 956451 605 or e-mail [email protected] • Aurelio Jover lime plastering. Tel: 629 937 490 or 639 870 914

IRONSMITHAllan Angelo. Tel: 617 212 063

ARTISTS• Sophie le Gros painted the trompel’oeil clouds mural in Debra’s livingroom. Tel: 649 219 728. [email protected]• Tadeus Michalski is a stone mosaicartist who worked with Debra on thewindsurfing fireplace at Valdevasqueros.See mozaiki-bez-granic.pl or [email protected]• Bertrand Guillou created the trompel’oeil mural in the apartment on Calle dela Fuente. Tel: 625 395 428 or [email protected]

HOMES & INTERIORS

From left: Debra designed the metal doorleading onto her terrace; One of hertrademark mosaic and plaster fireplacesin the Punta Sur hotel; Debra and anexample of her colourful ceramics

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property48

The thing about a townhouseis that it means different things todifferent people. What passes fora townhouse in an Andalusianvillage is very different fromsomething covered by the samephrase in an American city.

Britain, too, has its own, verydefinite idea of what constitutes atownhouse – historically, it was anurban base for the titled and thewell-heeled. Among the bestknown townhouses in London,for example, are 10 DowningStreet and Clarence House.

Confused? Well, it gets worse.Because here in Cádiz province,there are three very distinct typesof townhouse and you couldn’tconfuse any one with the others.

In the cities of Cádiz and Jerez,the definition is something akin towhat British city dwellers know: agrand, old house, usually terracedor set in a square.

Space has been at a premiumin the provincial capital for

hundreds of years, so it is nosurprise that here, the houses aretaller and narrower than in othercities.

There isn’t much of a market incomplete properties here – partlybecause the cost of even adilapidated building would behefty and that of renovationalmost as much again.

Added to that, theayuntamiento is engaged in avigorous regeneration programmeso that everywhere in the old cityboards are attached to the frontof half-renovated propertiesdetailing the creation of newapartments with the help of citycouncil grants.

Puerto Real-based estateagents Morris are among the fewwhich have a good selection ofapartments and attics in the oldtown of Cádiz, though beprepared to dig deep. A one-bedpiso in a good location will cost€270,000 upwards and you can

add another €100,000 for everyextra bedroom – more if there’s agood-sized balcony.

In Jerez, things are different.The city has grown outwards andthe older properties tend to becasas señoriales, built bymerchants and many of themalready split up and turned intocomfortable, modern apartments.

Chris Mercer, the director ofMercers, has opened an office inthe centre in response to thegrowing interest from overseasbuyers in securing a piece ofAndalusian city life.

“We have seen great interest inour Jerez projects,” he says.“These are old, grand houses thatare being converted into very nicecontemporary-style apartments.Normally situated around a centralpatio, they offer a great mixture ofold and new, so you get thecharacter and structure of theoriginal building but with brandnew interiors and infrastructures.”

As the market elsewhere insouthern Spain takes a breath,properties on the Costa de la Luzare still yielding growth (albeitmore slowly), though in Jerezthere’s something of a boom.

All of a sudden, the British,Irish and their fellow northernEuropeans have woken up to thefact that an urban pied-a-terre,close to an airport served bybudget airlines, with easy accessto the beaches, history, sherryand horses galore on theirdoorstep is a good bet. And wehaven’t even started talking aboutthe weather.

The market has respondedand prices are heading upwardsin the old barrios deep in the city.The type of sympatheticrenovations Mercers and otheragents are promoting tend to behigh specification, with airconditioning as standard, woodenfloors and seriously modernkitchens fitted, for example.

What’s in a name?Just what is a townhouse? Tony Jefferies looks at the different options availablethroughout the province

This townhouse on the La Noria development in Vejer is available through Mercers for €220,000

Sitting square in the Moorish lanes of the old town centre, thistraditional townhouse is on sale with Olvera Properties for €169,000

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50

But you can still grab that littlebit of Jerez for anything from€140,000 to €230,000.

Then again, you might want togo the whole hog and buy anurban palace – and there are anumber on the market, thougheven the less cared for propertieswill top the million euro mark.

Elsewhere in the province, theword townhouse means one oftwo things: a property in a town orvillage, or else a modern, terracedproperty, perhaps with a smallgarden or patio, on a newdevelopment.

Melanie Coe, of Olvera Proper -ties, knows all about the former:she sells almost nothing else inOlvera and the surrounding villages.

“The market up here is still verybusy, due – we think – to the lowprices,” she says.

“Most people want to stayunder €100,000 and for this theyexpect to have a two-bedroomtownhouse ready to move intowith no building work, though thisis becoming much harder to findthan even six months ago.”

Town and village propertiesbring their own problems. Manyare occupied by one family butmany more are divided intoapartments with shared entrancesand common areas. And this isone of the main areas whereproblems can arise.

“There are still some housesthat do not have deeds,” MelanieCoe says. “But local lawyers areused to dealing with theantiquated paperwork we cansometimes be presented with.

“If there is no current deed youcan pick up houses muchcheaper, then you have to waitabout two years on average forthe property to be registered inyour name. My lawyer charges€2,000 for this service.”

So legal procedures are key tosorting out the jumble of titledeeds – naturally enough. But is itworth the effort just to get yourhands on an urban property?Melanie Coe thinks so:

“The benefits of living in atownhouse rather than in thecampo are numerous. Firstly thelegal problems in the countrysideare the most difficult to solve. Thelaws and restrictions on buildingout of town change nearly everyyear. Then, of course, there is justthe simple ease of walking to theshops and bars rather than gettingstuck in the mud trying to leave acountry house in November.”

There’s also the possibility ofintegrating into a real Spanishcommunity though in towns likeOlvera and nearby Pruna, you alsofind a strong if not highly visibleBritish presence, which can be acomfort.

The story is the samethroughout the province in townsfrom Tarifa to Arcos and Jimena toSanlúcar de Barrameda.Properties in town centres arepopular, rife for renovation andperfect for full-time residents andsecond home owners alike.

Just turning the key on yourtownhouse and leaving it formonths is a lot less stressful thanwaving goodbye to your isolated

finca, wondering whethersomeone might notice yourabsence and help themselves toanything they can find without fearof being caught in the act.

Roy Russell of Luz Homes saysmost of his company’s recent enqui -ries have been for properties in the€140,000 to €170,000 range.

“A lot of the clients are lookingfor a bolthole – somewhere theycan reach quickly from the UK andspend a few days now and then,”he says.

“One of the beauties of atownhouse is that monthlymaintenance is virtually zero sowhen you leave you just lock it upand when you come back there isno overgrown garden and nogreen swimming pool so you canjust drop your bag, change yourshirt and head for the nearestrestaurant.

“The main legal problemsinvolved are the title deeds. Someproperties of this type have beenlived in for decades or evencenturies but ownership has neverbeen registered, while others mayhave been inherited by a wholefamily so you need to be sure thateveryone on the title deed actuallywants to sell.”

“Another common problem insome villages is that the propertymay be a parte de casa (part of ahouse) where a house has beensplit into two or more smaller dwell -ings. It is a complicated issue andnot always bad news but it can causeproblems if you need a mortgage.”

While the British love a bit ofprivacy and a garden, Roy Russell

sees a change on the horizon. “Isuspect this is something we willsee shifting as more of the residentpopulation reach an age wherethey no longer want to have todrive everywhere. Townhouses arethe perfect solution.”

There is, of course, a thirdoption: the more recent definitionof townhouse as a linked propertyon a new development.

Again, this is a province-widephenomenon. In towns like Arcos,Medina Sidonia and even up in thesierra, in Villamartin and Prado delRey, rows of new townhousesstand to attention on the hills likeso many soliders waiting for battle.

It’s not quite that fearsome inreality: these properties are fulfillinga real need: affordable,comfortable housing for younglocal families and – increasingly –no-fuss second or holiday homesfor foreigners.

Mercers were selling newdevelopments in Spain for yearsbefore branching out into older cityproperties and Chris Mercer says:“New townhouses are a great buy,especially for people looking at alow maintenance type property.They have the advantage ofoutside space, which you do notget with apartments.”

Their Vejer project, La Noria, isclose to being sold out but someproperties are available at€220,000.____________________________morris.esspanishproperty.co.ukolveraproperies.comluzhomes.com

This large villa with two furtherguest houses in its extensivegrounds has wonderful sea viewsand is in Cuarton, near Tarifa. It’sbeing offered at €1.8 millionthrough Marbella to Marrakechproperty finders by Olvera

Vix tremulus zothecaspraemuniet oratori. Saburreamputat lascivius oratori, semperAquae Sulis €252,425 throughOlvera

Olvera Properties are selling this apartment with stunning views of the townand countryside beyond for €99,000

PROPERTY

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experts52

tax LEÓN FERNANDO DEL CANTO

A founding partner in the firm Konsilia,León has worked as a tax adviser in theUK for Deloitte and previously KPMG.

He is qualified both as a Spanishabogado and an English barrister. Tel: 902 555 045, email [email protected] see konsilia.es

If you have any questions for our panel of experts, send them to:

laluz magazineApdo de Correos 39 , Vejer de la Frontera, 11150 Cádiz Or e-mail [email protected]

Advice is limited to general statements on finance, property and legalmatters. Always check with your financial adviser or abogado if you needspecific advice on these matters

John Silvester, e-mail We bought a property here some time ago andhave lived in it since, but now wish to sell that to buy a smaller andmore manageable property. We are worried about the taxes payable.I have recently heard that, if a person over 65 years of age sells hisprincipal residence in Spain, no tax of any sort is payable by themon that sale. Is this correct?

If so, does it apply only to persons who are registered as residentin Spain? And what is the definition of ‘principal residence’? Does itmatter if part of it is let or otherwise occupied by other people?Does some or all of the money from the sale have to be invested inanother principal residence in Spain?

Spanish tax residents over 65 years of age may sell their primaryresidence and the capital gains are tax-exempted. Of course, theperson will need to be a tax resident in Spain. The primary residenceis that where the person is registered for tax purposes – no otherconditions are attached to it. There are no conditions for the proceedsto be invested or reinvested in a particular way.

It is very important to understand fully the concept of Spanish taxresidence. This is not just a matter of holding the tax residence card,which is just for administrative ID purposes. Under Spanish domesticlaw, and the double tax treaty with the United Kingdom, individualsare deemed resident for tax purposes in Spain according to thefollowing criteria:

(1) 183 days ruleThe individual spends 183 or more days in Spain during the Spanishtax year, ending December 31st. An individual will be treated asresident for Spanish Inheritance Tax if 183 days have elapsed sincethey first took up residence. Temporary absences from Spain do notcount to reduce the 183 days rule, unless the individual is able toprove his tax residence in a country with a double tax treaty withSpain.

(2) Spain is the centre of economic interest or the principalplace of professional activityTo be deemed resident under these criteria, the Spanish tax agency(Agencia Estatal de Administración Tributaria or AEAT) will look atwhere the individual’s investments are located. They will also lookwhere the income is derived from as well as whether the source isemployment, business or investment income. To determine the placeof professional activity the tax agency looks at the country where theindividual spends most of his time performing his professional activity(the principal activity).

There are other elements being used by the Spanish tax agency todetermine residence, such as:

(3) The location of the family homeThis is the place where the individual and his/her family live on ahabitual basis. If the spouse and children live in Spain there is apresumption of residence in Spain.

(4) Residence in territories considered tax havens by theSpanish governmentThere are more stringent rules in respect of residency in a countryregarded by the Spanish tax agency as a tax haven, includingGibraltar, Isle of Man, Channel Islands, British Virgin Islands, Malta andseveral other offshore jurisdictions, as determined by the SpanishRoyal Decree 1080/1991.

If there is a conflict in determining residency according to the abovecriteria, the tax authorities would determine where the individual’sinvestments are located and where their income is derived from,whether the source is employment, business income, or investmentincome in Spain. In the event of residence disputes with othercountries, the international tax treaties take precedence overdomestic rules of residence.

Katherine Lyons, by e-mail

I am confused about the tax residency inSpain and paying income tax here. I do notwork here in Spain, but go off to work at seaon cruise ships from time to time.

My wage is still paid into my UK account,although I live here. As a non-resident do Ihave to pay income tax on these earningseven though I don’t in the UK, and if not,will that change if I apply for residency?

Please see above question to clarify the taxresidence rules. In your particular case ifyou spend more than six months a year inSpain you are deemed to be tax resident in Spain.

Therefore a tax return must be submitted inSpain and UK tax to be deducted accordingto the double tax treaty provisions.

When doing business with the UK from Spainthere are ways of organising your financialaffairs to utilise the tax allowances in both

countries and optimise your overall taxposition. This is particularly interesting forindividuals who travel regularly to the UK andcan claim that part of the work is performedthere.

A company structure is something I woulddefinitely recommend in your particular case,as well as the possibility of becoming residentunder the special legislation allowing a flat taxpayable of 25 per cent. These options mustbe discussed with your adviser in Spain andthe UK to coordinate the strategy.

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property MELANIE COE

Director of Olvera Properties in Olvera. She hasbeen in Spain since 1994 and has been buyingand selling properties for six years. Melanie isan expert in the intricacies of pueblo blancohouse sales. Tel: 0034 956 120 261www.olveraproperties.com

R Edwards, e-mail My husband and I have found a really lovely,big house in one of the pueblos blancos of Andalucía, at a veryreasonable price. However, it does need quite a lot of renovation.The local real estate agent said they could recommend builders.Should we use the agents’ builders or get estimates from others,as one would do in England?

54 EXPERTS

legal JUAN R. GIMÉNEZ MOREJÓN

An English-speaking partner with G&MAbogados in Chiclana. His main area ofexpertise is property law, wills, taxation,company and contract law. Tel: 956 404 107E-mail: [email protected]

Guenther Breitschaft and Jolanta Dederer, Germany We have seena property near El Chorro in the province of Málaga that wouldbe right for setting up a refuge for climbers. The finca has beenfor sale for about four years. The renovation of the buildingsand restaurant will cost about €200,000 so the idea is that wewould rent the property for a minimum term of 25 years. Thereare different ways of leasing a property in Spain. What would bethe right form of rental for this kind of tourism business andhow should we calculate the correct monthly rental?

Stephen Henderson, by e-mail I am moving to Spain in the near future andhave some valuable antiques that I will bebringing with me. Do I need a separatecontents insurance or will they be covered aspart of my general home insurance policy?

Unlike car insurance, which is obligatory, homeinsurance is a personal decision, entirely at thediscretion of the owner or tenant of theproperty. Home insurance policies can be tailor-made to tie in perfectly with your lifestyle.

You can take out a policy that covers eitherbuildings or contents or both. But the mostimportant thing is to make sure you areadequately covered. Most people tend to havesufficient cover for buildings insurance butwhen it comes to the contents, some try to cutcorners, but to their detriment!

If you make a claim following perhaps a theftor flood, the assessor who visits your propertywill be able to decide on an accurate value ofyour contents and should that value be morethan the insured value you will only get a

percentage of the claim. So make sure yourtotal value stacks up.

A common question with contentsinsurance is how to value items. The valuationshould be as accurate as possible based onthe value of the objects when new. Don’t try tosave money on the insurance premium byundervaluing. Objects of special value shouldbe listed separately. In this case, an officialvaluation in writing or purchase invoice from theart dealer, gallery or jewellery shop will berequired.

Always get at least three builders to give estimates, if not more. In fact,before getting an estimate or buying the house, we would recommendbringing in a structural surveyor. If you decide to go ahead with thepurchase and the renovation you may then require the services of anarchitect, depending on how much structural work is to be done.

With simple work like a new bathroom, kitchen or patio, the buildersoften put the plans into the ayuntamiento themselves; all town hallswant to see plans of proposed building work to issue a license to work.

If the structural work includes roofs and floors, an architect shouldalso be brought in. Always use a registered company, either with theletters SL or SA after the company name, then the work is insured, asare the builders that the company employs.

These days if you use non-registered builders you run a number ofrisks that are not worth taking. You may also be employing peoplethat are working illegally, making you responsible should anything gowrong, and anyone that might get hurt could claim against you. Thereare also large fines associated with all types of illegal building work, sodo not be tempted by cheap estimates.

Look and ask around for reputable building firms and ask to seeexamples of their work. Don’t be put off by the language barrier –there are plenty of interpreters to help out and in our experience a lotof the best builders inland are local Spanish companies.

One further piece of advice: beware of builders that can startimmediately. Like anywhere else, good builders are always busy, sobe patient and wait for them and sign a contract to say when they willstart, a complete cost breakdown of the work entailed and lastly, andmost importantly, an end date. I have known a simple job take a yearwhen it should only have been a month.

Your question has two quite different aspects. One is the legal anglewhere you ask about the kind of contract required to lease a property.The other is financial, where you ask about costs.

A lease contract under Spanish law is quite simple, we really onlyhave two different leasing contract types, the leasing of a residentialabode and the leasing of all other kinds of properties. If you are goingto lease a property to set up a tourism business obviously you fall intothe second category. The leasing of properties for business has noregulation on contract length so you should have no legal problem inrenting the premises for 25 years, but you will have to accept that theSpanish are very reticent to sign long term contracts. To solve thispossible conflict I would recommend that you include clauses on therevision of the rent every five years detailing how the revisions willfollow current market rents.

Additionally, you have another hurdle to overcome; since you aregoing to make an investment of €200,000, then you’ll need to securethe length of the contract and obtain the option to buy the property inthe future. In this case you will need to include two additional clausesto the contract. The first one being an essential clause forcompensation, if the contract is breached before the 25 years’duration, you will need it to be able to recover your investment.

Secondly, again for the same purpose, you will need a clausegiving you the option to purchase, that way you will be safe in theknowledge that you will have the possibility of buying the property oneday in the future at a fixed price.

The financial side of the question is closely related to these twoclauses. The amount of rent to pay is something you have to work outfor yourselves based on projected profits necessary to make thebusiness function to your satisfaction. But once you have settled on the maximum rent required, you could reduce it by adjusting the othertwo clauses, that is reducing the compensation amount or thepurchase price to pay.

And finally, since this type of contract involves in-depth negotiationand the inclusion of specific clauses, I think you will need a goodlawyer to draw up an effective contract.

insurance EVARISTO FERNANDEZ

An insurance specialist who is also an agentwith Liberty Seguros, one of Spain’s leadingexpat insurers. An American who has lived inSpain for more than 25 years, he has also beena financial adviser to US military personnel andcivilians living in Europe. To discuss individualrequirements, contact Evaristo on 605 882 815

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People associate Cádiz with sherry,but the province produces table winestoo, doesn’t it?Of course it does, and has done since thePhoenicians arrived here 3,000 years ago. Thething is that for the last 700 years every otherlocal wine has lived in the shadow of theprovince’s big money making export, sherry.They may not have been bottled or distributedfar from the bodegas until fairly recently, butthey’ve always been around.

Things started to change seriously in the1970s. Some of the sherry bodegas(Gonzalez Byass, Paez Morilla and Barbadillo)began to look into the possibility ofdiversifying from just producing sherry.Drinking habits in Spain were changing.People were beginning to drink more beer inbars, more wine at meal times and sherry –well, the export market for sherry was gettingmore and more competitive.

So they worked on ways of commercialisingwhite wines made from the classic sherrygrape Palomino, and started planting othergrapes for reds, mostly in the area aroundArcos de la Frontera. The area from Arcos tothe foothills of the Sierra de Grazalema is prettyideal for Tempranillo, Shiraz, Merlot andCabernet Sauvignon grapes. The soil’s good,the temperature’s mild, there’s abundant

grapevine56

What’s your first choice when you go out and buy a bottle of wine or order one at arestaurant? A Rioja? A Valdepeñas? Here at laluz we’re on a mission to promote localproducts. So we sought out local wine-seller (and wine fan) Guillermo Yanke tofind out how we can drink the province’s health with locally-grown products

Bringing new wines to the table

Salvador Rivero (above right) samples his Tinto Fabio Montana from grapes grown in Prado del Rey. Opposite: BodegasBioMateos is a family concern near Jerez where everyone helps out in the harvesting to create the organic Rey Habis

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sunlight and rainfall, almost no risk of frost,protection from the dry levante winds andplenty of humidity from the poniente.

Among the first bottled whites to maketheir appearance were Castillo San Diego(1975) and Tierra Blanca (1981). The first redsfollowed some years later. By the turn of thecentury, there were enough local wines on themarket for Cádiz to justify its own table winedenomination ‘Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz’.

Has the experiment paid off?In some cases, amazingly well. Castillo SanDiego (though most people just call itBarbadillo) has become the most consumedwhite wine in the whole of Spain. Overall,though, it’s early days still. For red wineproducers in Cádiz province it’s particularlytough. They’re up against competition frombodegas to the north of Andalucía thatproduce millions of bottles of decent wine eachyear at knockdown prices. To be competitiveon price, they’ve got to produce more – whichthey can’t do overnight – and find their wayinto the most effective distribution channels,which isn’t easy either.

And then there’s the hurdle with theconsumer. People still don’t readily associateCádiz with table wines, particularly tintos.

So, what about the wines? Your basic Cádiz white is made from just onegrape – the Palomino. They’re all pale, lightand fruity – and best drunk well chilled. Manyof the large sherry bodegas now producethem. Apart from the ubiquitous Castillo deSan Diego, Barbadillo also make a Palominowhite called Maestrante. Gonzalez Byasshave Cabomar, Williams and Humbert haveEstero Blanco and Medina SelecciónPalomino, and Bodegas 501 from El Puertohave Ribera del Puerto.

If you’re looking for something a little

different, then you could go for a wine with theadded flavours you get from more than onegrape. Paez Morilla’s “Tierra Blanca” (a mix ofPalomino and Riesling) is a tasty wine that’savailable in many shops and supermarkets.Osborne’s Gadir mixes Palomino withChardonnay for a slightly smoky taste,Sánchez Romate’s Momo mixes Palomino and Listán, and Viña Iro from the ChiclanaVinegrowers’ Cooperative mixes Palomino with Moscatel.

If you’re feeling a bit more adventurousBodegas Rivero from Prado del Rey make anunusual rich, fruity, dry wine (Fabio Montano)from the Moscatel grape, a dry young white(Viña Fabia) made from Palomino and PedroXiménez, and a sweet dessert wine, ViñaTardía, from Moscatel.

Among the pioneering table wines fromBodegas Sanatorio in Chiclana is theirSauvignon Blanc – the first and so far onlywhite to be produced wholly from Sauvignongrapes.

And the reds?There are some 15 or so that I know of – andnew ones keep appearing every year. Theyrange from the pretty good to the spectacular.The most common young reds blendTempranillo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon,Garnacha or Merlot grapes. The easiest to gethold of is Barbadillo’s Gibalbín, but it’s worthseeking out the Jerez Cooperative AssociationAECOVI’s Piedra de Mirabal, Tinto ManuelAragón from Chiclana’s Bodegas Sanatorio(who also do an organic version), Puerta -nueva’s Cortijo de Jara or Tinto Fabio Montanofrom Bodegas Rivero in Prado del Rey.

A young red that’s a bit different – and wellworth investigating – is Bodegas Biomateos’Rey Habis. It’s totally organic and made,surprisingly enough, in the heart of the sherryregion north of Jerez by a family that’s

committed to tradition, the best in new techno -logy and techniques and sustainable farming.

If you like a more mature wine, you couldstart by trying Paez Morilla’s trailblazing crianzaViña Lucía, Ruiz Iborra’s Regantío Viejo Crianzaor the slightly more pricey Cabernet SauvignonFinca Moncloa from Gonzalez Byass. They’reall reliable. I’ve been trying to get hold of abottle of Benevolo III, a Tempranillo crianzafrom Bodegas Castillo de Valleja near Arcos –so far with no luck.

And then there’s Taberner, which is worth aparticular mention, because it may be anindication of the way things are going in theelaboration of red wine in the province.

Taberner is a quality red wine that’s madeexclusively from Syrah grapes at the Huerta deAlbalá bodega near Arcos. Valencian businessman Mariano Taberner could have goneanywhere in Spain for his project, but choseArcos as the ideal place to make his ‘vinos deautor’ – top of the range tintos that werelaunched nationally to much fanfare last year. Itlooks like he has got it right. Taberner 1° - theposher of his two pretty posh wines – hasalready become the first Andalusian red to geta rating of 95 from the man generally acceptedas being the most reliable independent wine-taster in the world today, Robert Parker.

So where can we get hold of all thesewines to try them out?Well, in truth you’ve got to seek most of themout. There are shops dotted around theprovince that specialise in selling local wine –and the general rule still applies that the neareryou are to the bodega, the easier it is to gethold of their wine. You could always make anouting of it and go to the bodega. Many ofthem will be happy to show you round. And ifyou’re in a restaurant or bar, ask for a localwine. The more of us that do that, the moreavailable they’ll become over time. ¡Salud!

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Cortijo FaínArcos de la Frontera

There’s been a lot of publicity in recent monthsfor the new golf course at Arcos Gardens, justoutside the famous old white town. But one ofthe lesser known attractions on offer is thesuperb restaurant in the lovely old cortijo whichformed the focal point for the estate where thecourse was built and is now a hotel.

When the restaurant opened, Arcos Gardensdemonstrated how serious they were abouttheir food when they recruited their chef fromMichelin-starred restaurant Tragabuches in Ronda.

The restaurant has an a la carte menu buteach week offers a set lunchtime menu for €35-€40. Sometimes the menu can bethemed. I have enjoyed a Moroccan menu and a Valentine’s menu there in the past.

On my most recent visit I indulged in adelicious six course meal for €40. Theemphasis from the kitchen is on variety.Flavours are blended delicately, using fresh herbs from Fain’s own garden.

A neatly decorated appetiser of foie andchicharon (pork rind) on toast had a sweettwang and was followed by a creative dish oflangoustine with chive and caviar and a pouringof ajo blanco (a white version of gazpachomade with garlic, cucumber and cream).

The two main courses also offered fish and

meat. Firstly there was a spectacular, colourfuldish of smoked cod with an orange jus vinai -grette, black olive sauce and chopped chives.

The pièce de resistance came in the form ofa leg of suckling pig accompanied by fruits.Plum, apricot and apple cooked in a vanillasauce provided a sweetness that was theperfect complement to this tender young meat.

The wine list here is varied but doesn’t haveto be expensive. Wines start at about €15. Wechose a Montebaco from the Ribera del Dueroregion for around €20 which was the perfectaccompaniment to the meat courses.

To finish the meal we were presented with acream of lemon grass parfait and quince. Thiscleared the palate, making way for the grandfinale in the form of a delicious chocolatesponge muffin filled with chocolate sauce,vanilla ice cream, custard and fruit comfit.

For those that live down on the coast,Arcos may seem a trek; but this restaurantmakes it worth the journey and with the newJerez to Arcos link road now completed it’seven quicker. TONY SUMMERS_______________________________________Cortijo Fain, Arcos Gardens, CtrsArcos-Algar, km3. Tel: 956 704 131.arcosgardens.com

The restaurant is open for lunchand dinner every day. The club offersbonus golf and dining packages. Callor see website for details

Leg ofSuckling pig

with fruits

Pizzería El CaseríoRoche

After all day swimming at El Palmar the kidswere seriously getting hungry. We headedfor Roche viejo pine woods in search of ElCaserío, an Italian restaurant open all yearround with a very good family atmosphereand excellent food, though pizza is the starof the show.

The restaurant is close to a beautifulcasa rural, with lots of space around for the kids to play while the food is beingprepared; you can even watch the sunsetwhile you eat.

We ordered three margarita pizzas andwithin 10 minutes the food was on thetable. The wooden oven mastered by theItalian chef had done the trick again: a verythin and deliciously crunchy base.

On a previous visit I opted for the pizza caserío, which comes with lots ofaubergines, tomato, oregano and realbuffalo mozzarella.

We also ordered grilled vegetables –aubergines, mushrooms, courgettes, withplenty of virgin olive oil on top.

As if by magic the pizzas disappeared inan instant and the kids went back to thefootball pitch next door, while we orderedsome dessert. Delicious, truly home madeprofiteroles and panna cota vanished at thespeed of light and it was off again for thelast game, this time in the dark.

The restaurant is always very busy andit’s a good idea to get there early – 9pm isa good time. We came away relishing thememory of a perfect, no-fuss evening withthe little ones for less than €50 euros, eventhough we were three adults and fourstarving lion cubs. RICARDO LUZ_____________________________________Pizzeria Cortijo El Caserio,Majadales de Roche s/n. Tel: 956232 554. From Cádiz, take the nextright turn after the main entranceto Roche. Follow the windy road forfive minutes until you get to acrossing. On your right is a largeparking area. From Algeciras, takethe left turn at the first roundaboutin arrival at El Colorado. ClosedTuesdays

eating out58

Foie with chicharonLangoustine with caviar, chive and ajo blanco

Blending the foreignwith the familiar

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Spanish home cooking Arroz caldoso con bogavante

METHOD• Cut the lobster into 8 to 10 pieces. Keep the head. In a large and deep pan add a little oil and lightly fry twoñoras and the lobster pieces for a few minutes before removing the lobster from the pan.• For the refrito, clean and de-seed the peppers, chop and fry with the garlic in the same pan. Then add thechopped tomatoes and the ñoras and fry until the liquid has almost disappeared. Take the refrito out of thepan and blend it until you get a thick orange paste. • Put the refrito back in the pan, add the lobster pieces and stir gently, then add the rice measured in cups.Mix all ingredients and add water (three cups of water per one cup of rice). Gently stir together and leave itcook over a high flame for 15 minute. Don’t touch the rice while is cooking. • Remove from the flame and leave to rest for 10 minutes. The rice should look juicy and ready to serve.

Al LagoZahara de la SIerra

Here in the relative culinary wilderness that issouth-western Spain there’s more chance offinding the word ‘fusion’ stuck on the back ofa Ford than in the pages of a menu.

And up in the Sierra de Cádiz non-pork fansmight as well stay at home. The odd trout from ElBosque might wriggle its way on to la carta, andthere’s always a chicken breast lurking some -where. But by and large, traditional food is the billof fare and if you don’t like it you can try the nextventa, where the menu is almost identical.

But hold on a minute, what’s this – a‘foodie’ outpost in sleepy Zahara de la Sierra ?Al Lago restaurant is run by a New York-trained chef and his Anglo-Indian wife. Justthink of all those influences merging in thesmart, well-planned kitchen.

Stefan and Mona Crites describe their fareas recreated or reinvented Andalucian cuisine,though personally I think they’re undersellingthemselves.

They set up in Zahara almost two yearsago, having moved to Marbella from New York18 months earlier. Stefan spent years learninghis trade in the Big Apple, working in asuccession of outstanding restaurants. But thearrival of a baby heralded a major life changeand a move to Spain.

It took the couple 140 viewings and sevennear-purchases before settling on what was aventa on the road into Zahara from the lake.There’s a redecorated and renovatedrestaurant, a pleasant bar and a gorgeous,shaded terrace with tables overlooking thelake. It’s hard to imagine a finer setting whenthe sun shines and the water turns that lovely,milky, bluey-green colour.

Stefan and Mona wisely changed very little,and within weeks were beginning to win thetrust of locals who had probably never seenNew York cheesecake and certainly not apakora.

Fast forward to summer 2007 and theclientele is a healthy mix of expats and locals,augmented by the odd intrepid tourist.

The menu is full of old favourites with a twist– clams cooked in sherry with poblano chillies,baby squid in a parsley sauce, char-grilledpoussin with Moroccan spices.

We opted to start with a light, local toastedgoat’s cheese and smoked trout salad and thecrispy cod parcels, which were knockout –fluffy, tasty and well presented.

Next up was a satisfying seafood stew withhake, shellfish, tomato and saffron. Our otherchoice was the seared duck breast with sweetMálaga wine and fresh oranges. Again, lookedgreat, tasted great.

The puddings really topped the whole mealoff. The New York cheesecake was worthy ofManhattan, the plum, walnut and apple pieworthy of the winners’ stand at a village fete.

House wines are good solid reds, localwhites and a refreshing rosé, and they’re proofthat Mona and Stefan know their trade.

They are slowly bringing the locals round totheir way of thinking, and even hold sold-outIndian nights twice a month. They have alsointroduced a degustación (tasting menu) at€30 or €42 with wine pairings.

Don’t worry, though – they’re not takingpork off the menu. TONY JEFFERIES_______________________________________Al Lago, Calle Felix Rodríguez de la Fuente,11. Zahara de la Sierra. Tel : 956 123 032allago.es. Follow the A382 Arcos toAntequera road and follow signs for Zahara,branching off just before Algodonales. Followthe winding road into the village for about400 metres then bear left as the road climbsto the pueblo and Al Lago is on the right

Pizza MargaritaChocolate sponge brioche with vanilla Goat’s cheese and smoked trout saladDuck breast with sweet Málaga wine

INGREDIENTSLobster risotto(serves 6-8)

1kg lobster (or two 1/2kg) fresh or frozen

1 kg small grain rice1/2kg fresh tomatoes300gr long green peppers2 cloves garlic4 ñora peppers50cl extra virgin olive oilSaltSaffron

The cook Luis López Cabañas is a welltravelled man who enjoys foodfrom all over the world,specially Mediterranean dishessuch as this one: “the trick isalways in the caldos you use to flavour the rices,” he says.Above with Yan, his apprentice

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laluzguide to what’s onHOLIDAYS

(Check locally for ferias and fiestaswhen services could be curtailed)

OCTOBER12thColumbus Day, national holidaymarking the discovery of the Americas

FERIAS/FIESTAS

SEPTEMBER2nd A spectacular cavalcade ofhundreds of horses and riders intheir finery accompany the localvirgin into the walled town ofTarifa. Celebrations continue to 25th

6th–11thA typical Andalusian fair in thelake town of Bornos offers a fun-packed agenda includingcompetitions, good food and livemusic

6th – 9thConil de la Frontera gets dressedup and noisy for its annual feria.Crowds throng the marquees andthe funfair on the front isbursting with life until the earlyhours

8thEnjoy Chipiona’s distinctive wineand music at la Velada de Reglawhich (sadly) marks the end ofsummer

8th-24thTwo weeks of celebrations (wine,horses , flamenco) as Jerez de laFrontera makes a real song anddance of the grape harvest (fiestasde otoño).Check turismojerez.comfor details or ring the tourist office(956 341 711)

12th-15th Ubrique’s main avenida istransformed at feria into abuzzing parade heaving withpeople in flamenco dresses

hoping to enjoy delicious tapasand, of course, the wine

20th–24th Villamartín’s agricultural feria isthe oldest in Andalucía,celebrated since the 16thcentury. Even nowadays they stillbuy and sell farm animals. It is aferia full of tradition, equestrianperformances, folklore andexhibitions

29th-October 2ndThe locals of Arcos de la Fronteramark the reconquista of Arcos bytaking to the streets in theirflounced skirts and cropped suitsfor three days of marvellouscelebrations and greathospitality for the feria de SanMiguel

OCTOBER 4th-7thA typical fiesta celebrated inhonour of the patron saint ofRota, Virgen del Rosario, fills thebustling streets with spectacularfireworks and traditionalprocessions

28th The little town of Zahara de losAtunes celebrates its Christianreconquest with colourfulprocessions, displays,exhibitions and competitions. Agood time to visit one of theprettiest of the pueblos blancos

CLASSICAL MUSIC

SEPTEMBER8th International prize-winningpianist Mario Alonso Herrero inLa Línea de la Concepción at theTeatro Municipal La Velada ,entrance on the night is free.Starts 9.30pm. To guarantee aseat, tickets can be bought for€5 from telentrada.com

14thMalagueño Antonio Torres

(baritone) and pianist SergioMontero will be at La Linea de laConcepción’s Teatro Municipal LaVelada at 9.30pm. Tickets €5from telentrada.com

20thFrancisco Heredia (tenor) andSergio Montera at La Linea,details as above

28thThe soprano Cecilia Gallego, whohas performed in New York,Miami and North Korea, comesto the Teatro Municipal LaVelada, accompanied by pianistSergio Montero. Details as above

OCTOBER11th - 12thSpanish pianist Javier Perianesperforms works by Schumann,Beethoven and Chopin at theTeatro Olivares Veas in Arcos dela Frontera on the 11th , and attheTeatro Principal in Puerto Realon the 12th. For enquiries andbox office visitcircuitosandaluces.es

FESTIVALS

SEPTEMBER1stIf a mix of dance, hip hop, anddrum & bass music is your thing,you’ll love this year’s Floridancefestival in Jerez, with a hugevariety of MCs and DJs. Ticketscost €35 from ticktackticket.comand also in the Jerez youthcentre, La Casa de la Juventud.More information can be foundon floridance.es

6thThe festival Finito Rock in Jerez ismade up of six performers thatbring a breath of fresh air to hip-hop by mixing it with flamencoand reggae. It takes place at LaCarpa de la Juventud in Jerez at5pm. Tickets cost €10 and €15at the door; they can also bebought at El Corte Inglés. Money

goes to the charity Infancia sinFonteras.

FLAMENCO

SEPTEMBER 3rd -8thThis is one for hardened fans – acongress in Cádiz that will includeexpert talks, demonstrations andperformances. All details:laciudad.cadiz.es

One not be missed: ‘Las Callesde Cádiz’ at the Gran Teatro Fallain Cádiz on September 6th-8th at9pm. A new version of thefamous show created in the1930s by the legendary Cádiz-born composer, Manuel de Falla,master poet Federico GarcíaLorca and the renownedflamenco dancer, ‘La Argentinita’(Encarnación López Júlvez). Tel: 956 220 894 (see A Day inthe Life, page 30)

POP/ROCK

SEPTEMBER 1stCádiz’s very own reggeaton/popsinger Miguel Saez performing at11pm in San José del Valle in theCarpas de Verano. Entry free.

1stKiko y Shara ,the singing siblingsfrom Cádiz will be in Puerto Realfor a free concert in the Plaza delPoeta Rafael Alberti,10.30pm

1stAndalusian rock legends Cai &Iman, seen as pioneers duringthe Franco era, will be performingat Ubrique’s Plaza de Toros at9.30pm. They’re renowned fortheir musical messages offreedom representing theAndalusian spirit

4thPop rock group La QuintaEstación will be singing songs

Teresa Salgueiro Virgen de Regla Perianes

Compiled by Sofía López Chalmers

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from their latest album ‘El mundose equivoca’ in Los Barrios. Thealbum has been a huge hit inMexico from where part of thegroup originates, and has soldover 80,000 copies in Spain.Playing in the pavilion at RecintoFerial, 10.30pm. Free entry

JAZZ/BLUES

SEPTEMBER 1stA slightly modern take on Bluesand Soul is brought to you byFelix Slim Blues Band at theHotel Utopia, Benalup-CasasViejas.

13thThe festival of MúsicasAvanzadas which carries on to the 15th at ConjuntoMonumental del Alcázar, Jerez, isjam-packed with a wide varietyof groups and styles of music,from percussion to jazz , rockand new age

15thA sweet mix of smooth jazz andbolero as Paloma San Basiliosings songs from her new album‘Invierno Sur’ at the Palacio deCongresos y Exposiciones delCampo de Gibraltar, La Linea dela Concepción. Tickets fromtelentrada.com

OCTOBER6thSpanish pop singer Raphael (the‘nightingale of Linares’) will beserenading fans with a selectionof his best songs. Mums andgrannies take note, he’s at theReal Teatro de las Cortes, SanFernando at 8pm.

20thFamous Portuguese singerTeresa Salgueiro will be fillingJerez’s Teatro Villamarta with hersweet sounding ballads. 9pm.

SHOWS & DANCE

SEPTEMBER1stEl Dúo de la Africana presents alove story between a tenor and asoprano diva, directed byCherubini. Teatro Municipal LaVelada, La Línea de laConcepción , 9.30pm.

1st A chance to re-live the carnivalspirit up in Medina Sidonia withvarious typical carnival singinggroups including La RepublicaGaditana who finished n the finalsof February’s contest. The venueis Medina’s Plaza de España; free

6th- 9th Cabaret, the decadent musicalwe all know and love, has arrivedin Jerez. This spectacular theatreproduction has been seen byover 900,000 people and if youare a music lover, you need tobecome part of that growingnumber. Teatro Villamarta, 6th at9pm, 7th,8th, 9th at 6.30pm and10.30pm. Tickets fromtelentrada.com or directly fromTeatro Villamarta.

SPORT

SEPTEMBER8thToday sees the start of England’sgames in the Rugby World Cup (v

USA at 6pm). All welcome towatch on the big screen atPortuense rugby club, CallePalma, 23, El Puerto de SantaMaría near the Grant Bodega(Siete Esquinas) and the bullring.Contact Justin on 637 752 047

14th England v South Africa, RWC,9pm (see above)

22nd England v Samoa, RWC, 4pm

28th England vTonga, RWC, 9pm

OCTOBER14th El Puerto rugby club Portuenseplay CD Mairena Rugby at home,see craportuense.com for kick-off times or ring Justin on 637752 047

28thEl Puerto rugby club Portuenseplay La Vila at home. Details asabove

ART & EXHIBITIONS

SEPTEMBER 1st – 5thIs it a bird? Is it a plane? No it’s Tomás Cordero’s abstract

art. Caja de Ahorros de la Inma -cu lada, El Puerto de Santa María

1st – 16thWorks from the famous artistJose Manuel Péluco who wasborn in Puerto de Santa María,on show in CC Municipal AlfonsoX El Sabio

1st- 30thA collection of 18 works named ElValle de los Caídos by Costus willbe exhibited from 10.30am to8.30 pm at El Castillo de SantaCatalina, Cádiz. Costus is madeup of two contemporary artists that use fluorescent colours,imagination and baroqueinfluences to represent themesof their time (the Eighties)

13th -22ndThe Muestra Cinematográfica delAtlántico is an annual film festivalthat has been held in Cádiz sincethe late Sixties. Lots of shortfilms and documentaries. Formore information check outalcances.org

OCTOBERCádiz is again hosting the LatinAmerican and Spanish theatrefestival with events around thecity. For more information visitfitdecadiz.org

Paloma San BasilioRugby World Cup Kiko y SharaAlcances: Jean Luc Ponty

Please confirm all events with venues or local tourist offices before setting out

Costus

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Animal Welfare Animal Welfare - Neuter, Adopt,Denounce Cruelty Animal Welfare – Neuter and CastrateCats and Dogs 16,000 births of unwantedanimals from one pair. Cats and Dogs canbreed every 6 months. An average of 5kittens and puppies each time. Stop theimmense suffering of neglected,diseased, cruelly treated, abandoned andunloved animals. Cats and dogs can livefor 20 or 15 years respectively.www.losanimales.org offers informationand facts on how to care for cats anddogs, with a list of local vets and animalhospitals. Need transport! [email protected] Workingtogether for the good of animals.Donations desperately needed for Trapand Neuter Campaigns of street cats anddogs. Volunteers and Drivers needed.Contact [email protected] you.

Garden Sale for “Animales Viento”,animal charity.September 21st. In the Garden of DeeDuff who has kindly let us use herbeautiful garden. 202 a C/ Montevideo.off the road to the port of Sancti Petri. 1-00pm to 5-00pm. There will be lots ofthe usual bargains for sale, coldrefreshments & a Raffle. All donationsgratefully received please phone Barbara678967219 for collection after 31stAugust. Lookout for our posters for moredetails.

HealthChiropractic Health CareThis natural approach to health isavailable in two centres locally offeredby two American Chiropractors:• Juan Mora, D.C. Jerez ChiropracticCentre (Jerez) 865 05 68 09• Donald Palmer, D.C. CentroQuiropráctico Palmer (El Pto de SantaMaria) 956 87 69 83

Thai MassageA combination of soothing massagetechniques, acupressure and appliedstretching similar to yoga. This powerfulbodywork works through the clothing.Many benefits include improved jointmobility, stretching muscles, increasedenergy levels, flexibility and tranquillity.Christine has 15 years experience andteaches to Diploma level. Tel 616 098418 www.thaimassageuk.com

For saleCar SaleSilver Peugeot 206, diesel with 4 doors.Bought from new in the summer of 2001and has had one lady owner.

118755 km on the clock. 5,500 eurosono. For more details call Kelly on: 650 16 26 96

Rentals & SalesSurf, Golf, Campo and Sierra propertiesneeded for national and internationalclients. Place your FREE ad onwww.costaluzdirect.com.

Go to “FREE Ad”. CostaLuzDirect -bringing people, homes and servicestogether!

Town house for sale in Conil historic centreLarge private roof terrace withMoroccan sea views. In great centrallocation on a quiet pedestrianisedstreet. Split into 2 separate 2 bedapartments.

Re plumbed throughout with 2 newbathrooms and newly fitted kitchen.

No agents. €315,000.www.luzlife.com

Call Ana on 0044 775 259 5100

Villa with viewsLarge 4 bed air-conditioned villa 2 bath -rooms lounge dining room store/utilityroom roof terrace 1950 sq.metre plot8x4 swimming pool irrigated maturegardens quiet area overlooking naturalpark north of Chiclana 15mins frombeaches. oiro 390,000 euros phone956535581

SportsCostaluz Tennis ClubMen, ladies required to play doublesregularly. Ladies doubles, mixeddoubles, mens doubles, Sundays 11amfor two hours in the Vejer to NovoSancti Petri region.

Costaluz Tennis Club needs anynationality, any standard. Coachingavailable. Get fitter and socialise too.

Contact Cathy or Kevin now on: mobile or text 650 587 210 or 650 587 252, and tel 956 451066 or [email protected]

Trade & Professional ServicesBBC, ITV, SKY Satellite Locally based, professional service withguaran tee and after-installation support.Receive over 100 free English channelswithout any subscrip tion. Best price + freeadvice. Relocation, realign ments,antennas, cards, multirooms. Anytimecall outs. Call Vivid Image: 956 448 001 or636 761 506.

Colourvision Colourvision Your local installer for allyour satellite requirements. Full skysystems including sky plus fully installed.Freeview systems fully installed from only369 euros. Viewing cards supplied andactivated. New Pace digibox only 289euros. Sky plus box 345 euros.Dish kitssupplied and fitted. Tel. 956494415670892890.

Get to grips with basic Spanish speakingand listening skills in 2-3 weeks.We offer 5-hour courses that cover all theSpanish required to get by on a dailybasis. No nasty grammar; no abstracttheory. Material to meet individualneeds. For a free trial lesson callNicholas Sharman at Trafalgar LanguageCentre, Vejer. Tel: 655 671 380

Personal interpreterEnglish/Spanish. Need help going to thehospital, doctor, town hall, police station,trafico etc? Hourly rates, emergency callout service available. Call Lynda on670892472 problem solved.

Still using video tapes? Transfer all your cherished video tapesonto dvd discs easy to store and use. Weoffer a prompt efficient and discreetservice at reasonable cost. We also copyDVD to DVD or video tape to video tape.Tel 670892890

Sugaring Hair RemovalFriendly home practice in la Noria, Vejer.14 years experience. English speaking.Sugaring is safe, natural and watersoluble. Not only removing unwanted hairon body and face, it leaves skin smoothand exfoliated. Please call Angela on 956 447 024 or 637 900 623

Total CarpentryA professional service in all types ofinternal and external carpentry work.Bilingual, local references/Portfolioavailable. Call Mike 697 417 760

classifieds Please note: CLOSING DATE FOR ADVERTS: ISSUE 21 (nov/dec)

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Alcalá de los GazulesAntigua Fonda B/BCalle Sánchez Flores 4

Arcos de la FronteraTourist OfficePlaza del Cabildo, s/nTel: 956 702 264 [email protected]é OleCerro de la Reina s/n Mesón de la Molinera Urbanización El Santiscal

BarbateTourist OfficeAvda José Antonio 23Tel: 956 433 962 Bar La GaleríaPaseo MarítimoHotel El Palomar de la BreñaSan Ambrosio km 4.5 Barbate-Los Caños de Meca

Benalup-Casas ViejasTourist OfficeC/ Paterna 4Tel: 956 424 [email protected]

CádizJunta de Andalucía Tourist OfficeAvda Ramón de Carranza

Tel: 956 258 [email protected] OfficePaseo de Canalejas s/n Tel: 956 241 [email protected] LanguagePlaza Libertad 4, 1st floor

Chiclana de la FronteraTourist OfficeConstitución s/n Tel: 956 400 [email protected] Boxes EtcCtra. de La BarrosaC.C. Miramar, local 22 Cita BarCC Aldea del Coto Local 28 Ctra. Nueva de la BarrosaMatrix BarAvda de la Diputación 44Nuevo Look Fashion La Vid, Edif. El Espinel, local 2Costa Luz HomesEroski CentreLemon Tree restaurant Ctra de la BarrosaUrb Soto del AguilaMonopolyApartaclub la Barrosa. Ctra. de laBarrosa, Los Gallos

ConilTourist OfficeC/ Carretera 1 Tel: 956 440 501 [email protected] Homes C/ Toneleros 8

GrazalemaTourist Office Plaza de España 11Tel: 956 132 225

Jerez de la FronteraTourist OfficeAlameda Cristina Tel: 956 341 711/956 338 874 [email protected] estate agentsCalle Porvera 31Tel: +34 956 329572

Medina SidoniaTourist OfficePlaza de la Iglesia Mayor, s/nTel: 956 412 404 Andaluz HomesC/Hercules 2Chelsea AcademiaPza carretita s/n

OlveraTourist OfficePlaza de la Iglesia s/nTel: 956 120 816 Olvera PropertiesCalle Maestro Amado 2Bar Pepe Reyes/Tartan BarPza del Ayuntamiento 9

El Puerto de Santa MaríaChiropractor CentreCrta de Sanlúcar 6 Edificio Jardines de Sanlúcar 1

RotaTourist OfficeC/ Cuna, 2 Palacio Municipal Castillo de LunaTel: 956 846 345 [email protected]

Sanlúcar de BarramedaTourist Office C/ Calzada del Ejército s/nTel: 956 366 110 [email protected]

SotograndeC-International AbogadosCN 340 s/n, Salida 130 CC Sotomarket

TarifaTourist OfficePaseo de la Alameda s/nTel: 956 680 993 [email protected] C/ San Trinidad 1Bossa Cafe Puerta de JerezCircus Bar C/ San Sebastian 8

Vejer de la FronteraTourist OfficeAvda de los Remedios 2Tel: 956 451 736 [email protected] La Luz Properties SLLos Remedios S/NMercers estate agentsC/ Pintor Morillo Ferrada, Urb La NoriaHotel El Califa Pza de EspañaLa Patría restaurantPatria 48, La MuelaThe English BookshopC/ Juan Rellinque 45

Zahara de la SierraTourist Office Plaza Zahara 3

pick up points You will continue to find us in hotels, restaurants, bars and shops across the province, but the following places haveagreed to be designated pick up points for the magazine, so there should always be plenty of copies here.

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