Measuring Tools candy thermometer Substitutes: To measure the temperature of candy syrup without a thermometer, visit the Illinois Cooperative Extension Service's Candy Thermometer Accuracy page meat thermometer refrigerator thermometer = freezer thermometer shot glass
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Measuring Tools
candy thermometer Substitutes: To measure the temperature of candy syrup without a thermometer, visit the Illinois Cooperative Extension Service's Candy Thermometer Accuracy page
apple peeler and corer Substitutes: knife and vegetable peeler
clam knife = oyster knife = oyster shucker Substitutes: Microwave the oysters until they open (about 20 seconds) OR stem the oysters until they open (about 4 minutes)
cookie cutter Substitutes: wine glass OR empty can
knife
pizza wheel = pizza cutter Substitutes: knife
sharpening steel = steel Substitutes: whetstone
steel See sharpening steel.
vegetable peeler Substitutes: scrape off peel with a sharp knife.
Baking Equipment
angel food cake pan Notes: These usually have removable bottoms. Substitutes: tube pan
.
bundt pan = kugelhupf mold Notes: Substitutes: tube pan (a 10" tube pan holds 16 cups, while a 10" bundt pan holds 12 cups)
clay pot Substitutes: casserole pot OR dutch oven (Warning: Cook at lower temperature for a shorter period of time than with clay pot. For more information, see the Clay Pots for Cooking posting on SOAR.)
Mary Ann pan Notes: When inverted, cakes made with this pan have a large depression in the middle that can hold fillings. Substitutes: obsttortenform
muffin pan
obsttortenform Notes: When inverted, cakes made with this pan have a large depression in the middle that can hold fillings. Substitutes: Mary Ann pan
parchment triangles Notes: Cake decorators use these along with decorating tips to make decorating bags.
rolling pin Substitutes: wine bottle
sifter = flour sifter Substitutes: fine sieve
spatula
springform pan Notes: These pans are great for baking delicate desserts that are prone to falling apart when removed from the pan. The rim loosens from the bottom when the clamp is opened. This pan has two bottoms, so that it can serve as both a tube pan (pictured) and a layer cake pan.
tart pan Notes: These often have removable bottoms.
Mashing, Grating, Grinding & Mixing Tools
chinois Notes: This fits on top of a deep container and mashes food that pressed through it.
eggbeater Substitutes: Beat mixture vigorously with a fork OR shake mixture in a sealed jar
grater
ice pick
mallet Substitutes: rolling pin OR hammer
meat grinder
mortar and pestle Substitutes: coffee grinder OR crush with a rolling pin
peppermill Substitutes: mortar and pestle OR coffee grinder
potato masher
salt mill Notes: Trendy cooks fill this gadget with expensive sea salt crystals so that they season their food with freshly ground salt. It's not clear why they do this, since salt is an inorganic mineral and, unlike pepper and other spices, doesn't become stale once ground. Substitutes: mortar and pestle OR place salt in a plastic bag, seal, then crush the salt with a rolling pin.
Edible Flowers
borage Substitutes: nasturtiums (for salads) OR violets (for salads) OR rose petals
lavender Notes: Cooks use this fragrant flower to flavor jellies, baked goods and grilled meat. Substitutes: drops of Parfait Amour (a lavender-flavored liqueur)
nasturtium = Indian cress Substitutes: marigolds OR pansies
pansy
rose petals Substitutes: violet flowers (for syrups, jams, and for crystallizing)
sage blossoms
squash blossoms = squash flowers = flor de calabaza Notes: These make exquisite garnishes, but they can also be stuffed with fillings and fried, or else sautéed very briefly and put into omelettes or quesadillas. The best source of the blossoms is a garden, but non-gardeners can sometimes find them in farmers' markets or specialty markets. They don't store well, so try to use the blossoms soon after you get them.
Notes: To candy flowers, whisk an egg white, then use a brush to paint a fine layer onto clean, dry, pesticide-free flower petals (or whole flowers if they're very small). Next, gently place the petal into some superfine sugar, and sprinkle some more superfine sugar on top. Shake off the excess and lay it out on waxed paper to dry (this takes as long as eight hours).
Food Wrappers
aluminum foil = tin foil Notes: This is an excellent all-purpose wrapper, able to withstand both heat and cold. It's the best choice if you're wrapping foods for freezer storage, since it works better than plastic wrap at preventing moisture loss. Substitutes: plastic wrap
bamboo leaves Notes: Southeast Asians use these to wrap and tie rice packets before steaming. They're hard to find fresh, but Asian markets often carry dried leaves in plastic bags. Soak them in warm water before using to prevent them from cracking. Substitutes: lotus leaves
banana leaves People in the tropics use these huge leaves to line cooking pits and to wrap everything from pigs to rice. The leaves impart a subtle anise fragrance to food and protect it while it's cooking. Frozen leaves--once thawed--work just fine. Boil the leaves before using them to keep them from cracking. Look for banana leaves among the frozen foods in Asian, Hispanic, or specialty markets.
Substitutes: aluminum foil (as food wrapper) OR parchment paper (as food wrapper) OR corn husks (as food wrapper or to cover imus) OR hoja santa leaves (as a food wrapper, also imparts an interesting anise flavor) OR ti leaves (To line imu pits and wrap small items: 1 banana leaf = 5 ti leaves)
corn husk = hoja de maíz Notes: Hispanic cooks use these, both fresh and dried, to wrap tamales before steaming them. Before using, soak the husks in hot water for about 30 minutes to make them more pliable. Substitutes: banana leaves (for wrapping food) OR aluminum foil (for wrapping food) OR hoja santa leaves (imparts an interesting root beer-like flavor)
dumpling wrappers = dumpling skins = shao mai skins = shu mai skins = siu mai skins = su my wrappers = shiu mai wrappers Notes: These thin round wrappers are used to make the delicate dumplings that are so popular at dim sum restaurants. They're made to be stuffed and steamed, but they're not sturdy enough to be fried. While assembling the dumplings, keep the stack of wrappers moist by covering them with a damp towel. You can seal the dumplings with a "glue" made with cornstarch and water. Look for fresh or frozen wrappers in Asian markets. Store them in the refrigerator or freezer, but let
them come to room temperature before using. Substitutes: wonton skins (These are thicker. Trim off square corners before using.) OR egg roll wrappers (These are thicker. Cut into quarters and trim off square corners before using.) OR pasta sheet
egg roll wrappers = egg roll skins = eggroll wrappers = eggroll skins Notes: The Chinese use these dough squares to make deep-fried egg rolls. While assembling the egg rolls, keep the stack of wrappers moist by covering them with a damp towel. You can seal the rolls with a "glue" made with cornstarch and water. Look for fresh wrappers in Asian markets and many supermarkets. Store them in the refrigerator or freezer, but let them come to room temperature before using. Substitutes: rice paper (larger and thinner; yields a crispier roll) OR phyllo (Bake the eggroll instead of frying it.) OR pasta sheet
empanada wrappers Notes: Hispanic cooks wrap these six-inch diameter rounds of dough around sweet or savory fillings, and then bake or fry them. Look for them among the frozen foods in Hispanic markets. Substitutes: wonton wrappers OR pasta sheet
fig leaf Notes: These are great for wrapping delicately flavored foods before grilling them.
grape leaves = vine leaves = grape vine leaves Notes: Greeks stuff these with ground lamb and rice to make dolmades, but they're used elsewhere to make pickles and beds for food. They're hard to find fresh in markets, but you can often find them in cans or jars. Trim the stems and rinse off the brine before using. To make your own: Plunge grape leaves (that haven't been sprayed with harmful chemicals) for one minute in boiling, salted water (2 teaspoons pickling salt per quart), then drain. Substitutes: green cabbage (use the leaves as wrappers) OR bell
pepper (Hollow out the pepper and stuff it with filling.) OR lettuce (as a bed for food) OR mustard greens OR Swiss chard
gyoza wrappers = gyoza skins Pronunciation: gee-OH-zah Notes: The Japanese use these round wrappers to make pork-stuffed dumplings similar to Chinese potstickers. Western cooks sometimes use them to make ravioli. Substitutes: potsticker wrappers OR wonton wrappers (These are thinner than gyoza wrappers.) OR egg roll wrappers (These are larger than gyoza wrappers.) OR pasta sheet
kreplach wrappers Notes: Jewish cooks use these to make kreplach, a kind of Jewish ravioli. Substitutes: wonton wrappers OR pasta sheet
lotus leaves Notes: These leaves open up like butterfly wings, each about two feet high. They're often wrapped around rice and other fillings, to which they impart an earthy aroma when the bundles are steamed. The leaves are available either fresh or, more commonly, dried in Asian markets. Soak them for at least an hour in warm water before using, and keep fresh leaves in a cool, dry place or else freeze them. Substitutes: banana leaves OR parchment paper brushed with oil (for wrapping food)
lumpia wrapper Pronunciation: LOOM-pee-ah Notes: These thin wrappers are used to make lumpias, a Filipino type of egg roll. Substitutes: lettuce (another traditional lumpia wrapper) OR egg roll wrapper OR rice paper OR pasta sheet
maguey leaves Substitutes: banana leaves OR avocado leaves
papaya leaves Cooking notes: Wrapping meats in these leaves helps tenderize them.
parchment paper = kitchen parchment = baking pan liner paper = baking parchment = baking paper Notes: This is a heavy, silicone-coated paper that's used to line pans so that candies and baked goods won't stick. It's an expensive alternative to waxed paper, but it's less sticky, so it's a good choice if you're making gooey items. Parchment paper is also wrapped around foods to be cooked en papillote, or formed into cones for cake decorating. Specialty cooking stores and larger supermarkets often carry rolls or sheets of it. Paper grocery bags are sometimes recommended as a
substitute for parchment paper, but it's not advisable to use them. Grocery bags will ignite at 450 degrees, and that they may have been treated with unsafe chemicals. Substitutes: waxed paper (This is a lot cheaper, but it's more likely to stick to gooey baked goods. Try greasing the waxed paper before using.) OR rice paper (as a baking pan liner) OR aluminum foil (Works well for cooking en papillote. If greased, it also works well as a liner for baking pans.) OR lightly grease baking pan (This tends to encourage cookies to spread out on the baking sheet.) OR nonstick baking sheet OR plastic zip-lock bag (If you're piping icing on a cake, this works well as a substitute for a parchment cone. Just fill the plastic bag, cut a hole in a corner, and squeeze.) plastic wrap Notes: Plastic wrap is terrific for covering foods to be stored in the refrigerator or cooked in the microwave. It clings especially well to glass, ceramic, and china dishes. You can also use it to wrap foods for short-term freezer storage, though you should use aluminum foil if you're storing something in the freezer for a long time since foil is better at preventing moisture loss. Substitutes: plastic bags OR waxed paper (This is a good choice for separating layers of cookies or candies, or for covering or wrapping foods before microwaving. Waxed paper doesn't adhere well to food or containers and will let air in and steam out.) OR aluminum foil (Foil insulates food, making it slow to freeze or thaw. Aluminum also reacts with salty or acidic foods, diminishing flavor or appearance.)
potsticker wrappers = potsticker skins Notes: These small, thick wrappers are stuffed with meat fillings, and then pan-fried and steamed. While assembling the potstickers, keep the stack of wrappers moist by covering them with a damp towel. You can seal the potstickers with a "glue" made with cornstarch and water. Look for stacks of them wrapped in plastic in the refrigerator cases of Asian markets. They freeze well. Substitutes: suey gow wrappers OR dumpling wrappers (thinner) OR wonton wrappers (thinner) OR eggroll wrappers (cut these down to size) OR pasta sheet
ravioli wrappers Substitutes: pasta sheet OR eggroll wrappers OR wonton wrappers OR dumpling wrappers
rice paper = spring roll wrappers = Vietnamese rice paper = banh trang wrappers Notes: These thin, fragile sheets are used to make spring rolls, but they also make good all-purpose wrappers, baking pan liners, and even lasagne noodles. The sheets are brittle, so you need to moisten them with water before wrapping foods in them. Keep them moist while you work with them by covering the stack with a damp towel. Rice paper doesn't need to be cooked, but it's sturdy enough to be steamed or deep-fried. Look for it in Asian markets. It can be stored in a cool, dark place for many months. Substitutes: phyllo dough (moisten and seal with peanut oil or melted butter) OR egg roll wrappers (These need to be cooked, and they're smaller and thicker than rice paper. When fried, egg roll wrappers aren't as tender and crisp as spring roll wrappers.) OR yufka (moisten and seal with peanut oil or melted butter) OR puff pastry (Roll it thin before using.)
sausage casings Notes: These are traditionally made from intestines, but synthetic casings are now more common. You can order them online, or prevail upon a friendly neighborhood butcher. Substitutes: cheesecloth (Use cheesecloth and string to shape sausages for poaching. Remove cloth and string before grilling or frying the sausages.)
suey gow wrappers = soi gow skins Notes: These are similar to potsticker wrappers, but they're intended to be used in soups. While assembling the dumplings, keep the stack of wrappers moist by covering them with a damp towel. Seal the dumplings with a "glue" made with cornstarch and water. Look for stacks of these wrappers in the refrigerator cases of Asian markets. Store them in the refrigerator or freezer, but let them come to room temperature before using. Substitutes: potsticker wrappers OR dumpling wrappers (thinner) OR wonton wrappers (thinner) OR eggroll wrappers (cut these down to size) OR pasta sheet
spring roll wrappers
ti leaves Pronunciation: TEE Notes: South Pacific islanders use these to wrap food and to line the imu pits in which they roast pigs. Substitutes: corn husks (for covering imus) OR aluminum foil (for covering roasts) OR banana leaves
wax paper = waxed paper = greaseproof paper Notes: Invented by Thomas Edison, this is paper that's coated with paraffin wax to make it resistant to moisture. To use wax paper as a cake pan liner, place the pan on the paper, trace its outline, then cut it out and place it in the pan. Substitutes: parchment paper (for lining baking pans) OR aluminum foil (for lining pans or wrapping foods) OR plastic wrap (for wrapping foods)
wonton wrappers = wonton skins Notes: Wontons are the Chinese answer to ravioli--small packets of meat encased in a thin noodle wrapper. The wrappers are made of flour, eggs, and water, and, once filled with meat, can be easily folded and pinched into shape. While assembling the wontons, keep the stack of wrappers moist by covering them with a damp towel. You can seal the dumplings with a "glue" made with cornstarch and water. The wrappers come in different thicknesses. The thin ones work best in soups, while the thicker ones are best for frying. Look for stacks of them wrapped in plastic in the refrigerator cases of Asian markets. Store them in the refrigerator or freezer, but let them come to room temperature before using. Substitutes: eggroll skins cut into fourths OR dumpling skins (these have rounded, not square, corners) OR potsticker wrappers (thicker) OR pasta sheet
Vinegars
vinegar Cooks use vinegar to make pickles, deglaze pans, marinate meats, and add tang to vinaigrettes, sauces, and even desserts. Vinegars are made by adding a bacteria called Acetobacter aceti to diluted wine, ale, or fermented fruits or grains. This creates acetic acid, which gives the liquid a sour flavor. Unopened, most vinegars will last for about two years in a cool, dark pantry. Once opened, vinegar should be used within three to six months.
Tips:
Vinegar breaks down protein fibers, so adding it to marinades or braising liquids will
help tenderize meat. To cut calories, make vinaigrettes from milder vinegars like balsamic, champagne, fruit,
or rice wine vinegar. Since they're less pungent, you can use a higher ratio of vinegar to oil.
Vinegar will dissolve reactive metals like aluminum, iron, and copper. When cooking with vinegar, use pots and utensils made of stainless steel, glass, enamel, plastic, or wood.
It's easier to peel hard-boiled eggs if you add a teaspoon of vinegar and a tablespoon of salt to the water they cook in.
Vinegar can reduce bitterness and balance flavors in a dish.
Adding vinegar to a pot of water improves the color of any vegetables you're cooking.
Varieties: There are many different kinds of vinegars, most of them associated with regional cuisines. The French like RED WINE VINEGAR and WHITE WINE VINEGAR, which are tangy and great for vinaigrettes and marinades. Italians prefer BALSAMIC VINEGAR, which is dark, complex, and slightly sweet, while Spaniards often reach for their smooth yet potent SHERRY VINEGAR. Asians use RICE VINEGAR, which is relatively mild. Americans favor CIDER VINEGAR, which is tangy and fruity, which British and Canadian cooks prefer MALT VINEGAR, which has a distinctive, lemony flavor. The biggest seller of all is WHITE VINEGAR, which is distilled from ethyl alcohol. It's cheap but somewhat harsh-tasting, so while it's great for making pickles, acidulating water, and cleaning out coffee pots, it's not a good choice for most recipes. Substitutes: LEMON JUICE (as a flavoring or for acidulating water) OR LIME JUICE (as a flavoring or for acidulating water) OR BRANDY (for deglazing pans) OR FORTIFIED WINE (for deglazing pans and perking up sauces) OR WINE (for deglazing pans and perking up sauces) OR ASCORBIC ACID (mixed with water) OR AMCHOOR OR TAMARIND PASTE
acidulated water Pronunciation: uh-SIJ-uh-lay-tid Notes: This is water that's been mixed with a small amount of lemon juice or vinegar to make it slightly acidic. If you put freshly sliced fruits or vegetables in acidulated water, they won't darken. To make your own: Mix one or two tablespoons of lemon juice or vinegar with one quart of water.
balsamic vinegar = aceto balsamico = aceto di balsamico Pronunciation: ball-SAHM-ick Notes: This enormously popular Italian vinegar is prized for its sweet, fruity flavor and mild acidity. It's terrific for deglazing pans, dressing salads and vegetable dishes, and for seasoning everything from grilled meat to poached fruit. Its quality varies enormously. Expensive artisan-made balsamic vinegars (labeled traditional or tradizionale) are aged in wood barrels for at least 12 years and can cost over $100 per bottle. They're exquisitely complex, syrupy and only slightly acidic. Those who can afford them often drink them as they would a vintage port, or use them in desserts, where their sweetness and subtleties can be shown off to best advantage. Cheaper commercial brands are watered down with wine vinegar and artificially colored, but they're fine for most recipes. Substitutes: brown rice vinegar OR Chinese black vinegar (cheaper) OR red wine vinegar + sugar or honey OR sherry vinegar OR fruit vinegar
cane vinegar = sukang iloko Notes: This is made from sugar cane syrup, and varies in quality. You can get cheap cane vinegar in Filipino markets, but the Vinegarman at www.vinegarman.com recommends that you hold out for the smoother Steen's Cane Vinegar, which is made in Louisiana.
champagne vinegar Notes: This light and mild vinegar is a good choice if you're want to dress delicately flavored salads or vegetables. Mix it with nut or truffle oil to make a sublime vinaigrette. Substitutes: white wine vinegar (not as mild) OR rice vinegar (not as mild) OR raspberry vinegar (not as mild) OR apple cider vinegar (not as mild)
Chinese black vinegar = black vinegar = black rice vinegar = Chinese brown rice vinegar = brown rice vinegar = Chinkiang vinegar = Chekiang vinegar = Chenkong vinegar = Zhejiang vinegar Notes: The best Chinese black vinegars are produced in the province of Chinkiang (or Chekiang or Zhejiang--there are many spellings). Black vinegar is more assertive than white rice vinegar, and it's often used in stir-fries, shark's fin soup, and as a dipping sauce. Gold Plum is a well-regarded brand. Substitutes: balsamic vinegar (similar, but more expensive) OR red rice vinegar (Add a bit of sugar to sweeten it.) OR apple cider vinegar OR wine vinegar OR Worcestershire sauce (as a dipping sauce)
cider vinegar = apple cider vinegar Notes: Made from fermented apples, this fruity vinegar is inexpensive and tangy. While it's not the best choice for vinaigrettes or delicate sauces, it works well in chutneys, hearty stews, and marinades. It's also used to make pickles, though it will darken light-colored fruits and vegetables. Substitutes: malt vinegar OR white vinegar (a good choice for pickles) OR wine vinegar (not for pickles)
coconut vinegar = suka ng niyog Notes: This is a somewhat harsh and potent vinegar that's common in the Philippines, Southeast Asia, and southern India. Substitutes: cane vinegar OR 3 parts white vinegar plus 1 part water OR white wine vinegar OR cider vinegar
cranberry vinegar Substitutes: raspberry vinegar OR red wine vinegar (sweetened, if you like, with some sugar)
flavored vinegar = infused vinegar Notes: These are vinegars that have been flavored, usually with herbs, fruit, garlic, or peppercorns. They're handy if you want to whip up a flavorful salad dressing or sauce in a hurry.
fruit vinegar Notes: Fruit vinegars are assertive without being pungent, so they make terrific salad dressings. More healthful ones, too--since they're not as pungent as other vinegars, you can cut calories by using less oil. They're also good in marinades and in sauces for roasted meats, especially poultry, ham, pork, and veal. Popular commercial vinegars include raspberry vinegar, blueberry vinegar, and mango vinegar. They're easy enough to make at home, but seek out a trustworthy recipe. If too much fruit is added to the vinegar, it may not be sufficiently acidic to ward off harmful microbes. Substitutes: vinegar plus fresh fruit OR champagne vinegar OR cider vinegar (sweetened, if you like, with some sugar) OR wine vinegar (sweetened, if you like, with some sugar)
herb vinegar Notes: Herb vinegars are a convenient way to preserve fresh herbs and to incorporate their flavor into salad dressings, marinades, and sauces. They're easy to make at home. Just put one or two sprigs of clean, fresh herbs in a bottle of warm vinegar, tightly seal the bottle, and let it stand for at least a few days. The sprigs will eventually become bitter, so remove or replace them after a few weeks. Make sure that the vinegar you use has an acidity level of at least 5% (this information is given on the label). Wine, rice, or cider vinegars are good bases for most herb vinegars. Don't add too many herbs to the bottle, or you may reduce the acidity of the vinegar so much that it loses its ability to preserve. Substitutes: vinegar plus fresh herbs
malt vinegar = alegar Notes: Most of us know malt vinegar as the condiment that's always put on the table wherever British fish and chips are served. It's made from malted barley, and has a pungent, lemony flavor. It's a good choice for pickling (assuming it contains at least 5% acetic acid), though it will darken light-colored fruits and vegetables. It's also the vinegar of choice for making chutneys. Since it's so assertive, it's not a good choice for vinaigrettes or delicate sauces. Varieties include brown malt vinegar and distilled malt vinegar, which is clear. Substitutes: lemon juice (with fish and chips) OR cider vinegar OR white wine vinegar
palm vinegar = toddy vinegar Notes: This cloudy white vinegar is popular in the Philippines. It's milder than wine or cider vinegars. Substitutes: coconut vinegar OR other vinegar (use less to compensate for the mildness of palm vinegar)
pickled plum vinegar
pineapple vinegar Notes: This is used in Mexico, but hard to find in the United States. Grab a bottle if you can find it, for it's reputed to be quite good. Substitutes: apple cider vinegar
plum vinegar
raspberry vinegar Notes: This is a mild and fruity vinegar that makes a terrific salad dressing. Substitutes: sherry vinegar (especially with poultry) OR champagne vinegar (milder) OR blueberry vinegar OR red wine vinegar OR black currant vinegar OR rice vinegar OR apple cider vinegar OR balsamic vinegar
red rice vinegar = red vinegar = Chinese red vinegar = Chinese red rice vinegar Notes: This Asian vinegar is a bit salty. It's sometimes used in seafood or sweet and sour dishes, or as a dipping sauce. Substitutes: Chinese black vinegar (sweeter) OR cider vinegar OR red wine vinegar
red wine vinegar Notes: This assertive vinegar is a staple in French households. It's used in vinaigrettes and for making marinades, stews, and sauces. It's a good choice if you're trying to balance strong flavors in a hearty dish. Substitutes: white wine vinegar (very similar) OR balsamic vinegar OR sherry vinegar OR apple cider vinegar OR rice vinegar
rice vinegar = rice wine vinegar Notes: Rice vinegars are popular in Asian and they're sweeter, milder, and less acidic than Western vinegars. They're sometimes called "rice wine vinegars," but they're made from rice, not rice wine. Most recipes that call for rice vinegar intend for you to use white rice vinegar, which is used in both China and Japan. The Chinese also use red rice vinegar with seafood or in sweet and sour dishes, and black rice vinegar in stir-fries and dipping sauces. Substitutes: apple cider vinegar (also add a pinch of sugar if you like) OR white wine vinegar OR 3 parts white vinegar + 1 part water
seasoned rice vinegar = seasoned rice wine vinegar = sushi vinegar Notes: Accomplished Asian cooks who find this in your pantry are likely to purse their lips, just as Italian cooks would over a packet of spaghetti sauce mix. So keep it well hidden. It's lightly flavored with sugar and salt, and saves time when making sushi. You can also use it to dress salads, vegetables, and other dishes. Substitutes: 3/4 cup white rice vinegar plus 1/4 cup sugar plus 2 teaspoons salt.
sherry vinegar = sherry wine vinegar = vinagre de Jeréz = Jerez vinegar = vinagre de Xeres = Xeres vinegar Notes: Sherry vinegar is Spain's answer to balsamic vinegar. It's assertive yet smooth, and great for deglazing pans and perking up sauces, especially those that will accompany hearty meats like duck, beef, or game. The most expensive sherry vinegars are aged for a long time in wood casks. Substitutes: balsamic vinegar OR red wine vinegar (Also add a little sugar if you wish.) OR rice vinegar
tarragon vinegar = tarragon wine vinegar Notes: This popular herb vinegar is used to make Béarnaise sauce and vinaigrettes. It's easy to make at home. Just put one or two sprigs of clean, fresh tarragon in a bottle of warm white wine vinegar, tightly seal the bottle, and let it stand for at least a few days. The sprigs will eventually become bitter, so remove or replace them after a few weeks. Make sure that the vinegar you use has an acidity level of at least 5% (this information is given on the label). Don't add too much tarragon to the bottle, or you may reduce the acidity of the vinegar so much that it loses its ability to preserve. Substitutes: One tablespoon fresh tarragon leaves plus one cup vinegar (preferably white wine vinegar, champagne vinegar, or apple cider vinegar) One teaspoon dried tarragon leaves plus one cup vinegar (preferably white wine vinegar, champagne vinegar, or apple cider vinegar)
umeboshi vinegar = umeboshi plum vinegar = ume vinegar = ume plum vinegar = pickled plum vinegar = plum vinegar Notes: This Japanese vinegar is quite salty, and it has a distinctive, slightly fruity flavor. It's typically used in dips and salad dressings. Substitutes: red wine vinegar (Since this isn't as salty as umeboshi vinegar, you may want to add salt or soy sauce to the dish.)
verjus = verjuice Pronunciation: vehr-ZHOO or VER-juice Notes: A medieval ingredient that's making a comeback, verjus is a sour juice made from unripened red or white grapes. Vinegars in salad dressings sometimes create off-tastes in the wines that accompany a meal. Verjus doesn't, so it's a good substitute for vinegar if you're planning to serve an expensive wine with dinner. Some people also mix it with sparkling water and ice to make a sophisticated non-alcoholic drink. After the bottle is opened, store verjus in the refrigerator, where it will keep for about a month. If you can't use it that fast, pour it into ice cube trays, freeze, then store the cubes in a plastic bag in the freezer. Though becoming more popular, verjus is still hard to find. Look for it in gourmet specialty shops. Substitutes: lemon juice (a very good and much cheaper substitute) OR white wine vinegar
white rice vinegar = su Notes: This Asian vinegar is milder and sweeter than Western vinegars. It's used in Japan to make sushi rice and salads, and in China to flavor stir-fries and soups. Western cooks often use it to flavor delicate chicken or fish dishes, or to dress salads or vegetables. Japanese brands tend to be milder than Chinese, but they can be used interchangeably. Substitutes: champagne vinegar OR seasoned rice vinegar OR white wine vinegar
white vinegar = distilled vinegar = distilled white vinegar = white distilled vinegar Notes: This cheap vinegar gets all the mundane jobs, like making pickles, cleaning out coffee pots, and washing windows. Distilled from ethyl alcohol, it's a bit too harsh for most recipes, but it does a great job with pickles. Be careful if you're substituting another vinegar in a pickle recipe--to adequately preserve, vinegar should have an acidity level of at least 5%. Substitutes: cider vinegar (This can be used for pickling if the acidity is at least 5%--check the label. Cider vinegar may darken light-colored fruits and vegetables.) OR malt vinegar (If you're pickling with it, check the label to make sure it has at least 5% acidity. This may discolor light-colored fruits and vegetables.)
white wine vinegar Notes: This is a moderately tangy vinegar that French cooks use to make Hollandaise and Béarnaise sauces, vinaigrettes, soups, and stews. It's also an excellent base for homemade fruit or herb vinegars. Substitutes: red wine vinegar (This has a stronger flavor, and it may discolor a light sauce.) OR champagne vinegar OR rice vinegar OR cider vinegar
wine vinegar Notes: Wine vinegars are milder and less acidic than cider or white distilled vinegar, so they're a good choice for salad dressings, sauces, and marinades. There are several varieties, ranging from mild champagne vinegar to the tangy white and red wine vinegars to the dark and assertive balsamic and sherry vinegars. The milder vinegars go best with more delicate dishes, like salads, which stronger ones are best for deglazing pans, marinating meats, and adding tang to sauces. Rice vinegar, though it's sometimes called rice wine vinegar, is made from fermented rice, not rice wine. Substitutes: cider vinegar OR rice vinegar (milder) OR malt vinegar
Nut Pastes
almond butter Notes: Almond butter is grittier and more expensive than peanut butter, but it can substitute for peanut butter in many recipes. To make your own: Process two cups of blanched and toasted whole almonds in a food processor for a few minutes, add up to one teaspoon of salt, then process for a few minutes more. Yields a bit more than one cup. Substitutes: peanut butter OR cashew butter
almond paste Notes: This is a paste made with finely ground blanched almonds, sugar, glycerin, and sometimes almond extract. Bakers use it to make cakes and cookies. Bitter almond paste is flavored with oil of bitter almonds, and is worth seeking out if you plan to make amaretti. Look for tubes or cans of it among the baking supplies at your supermarket. Substitutes: marzipan (sweeter and more pliable than almond paste)
almond filling Notes: This sweet filling is used to make pastries and cakes.
candied chestnuts = marrons glacés Notes: A French specialty, these are whole chestnuts that are candied in a sugar syrup. They're used to make various desserts. Substitutes: chestnut cream
cashew butter Notes: This is an interesting alternative to peanut butter, though it's a bit pricey. To make your own: Blend in food processor two cups roasted cashews plus one to two tablespoons vegetable oil. Store it in the refrigerator. Substitutes: peanut butter OR almond butter
chestnut cream = crème de marron Notes: This is made with puréed chestnuts, brown sugar, and vanilla. It's used as an ingredient in several desserts, including Mont Blanc. Refrigerate after opening.
chestnut purée = chestnut puree = purée de marron Notes: Europeans use this to make everything from soups to stuffings to desserts. You can buy it either sweetened or unsweetened. If you're not sure which one your recipe is calling for, get unsweetened purée and add sugar later if needed. To make your own: Simmer shelled and peeled chestnuts in milk or water over low heat for an hour (adding more liquid as necessary), then purée and press through a sieve.
hazelnut butter Notes: This is similar to peanut butter, only it's made with roasted hazelnuts. To make your own: Combine one cup roasted and skinned hazelnuts and one or two tablespoons vegetable oil and salt and sugar to taste in a food processor or blender and mix until it has a spreadable consistency. Substitutes: chocolate-hazelnut spread
hazelnut paste = pasta nocciola Notes: This is used as a filling in candies and baked goods. Look for it in specialty shops or Middle Eastern markets. To make your own: Coarsely chop one pound roasted hazelnuts. In a food processor or blender, finely grind about 1/3 of the nuts at a time, until mealy. Add egg whites from 3 large eggs, 2 cups powdered sugar and 2 teaspoons hazelnut liqueur. Blend until paste forms. Wrap and store in a covered container, up to 2 weeks. Makes 2-3 cups. Recipe courtesy of the Oregon Hazelnut Commission, and reprinted with their permission. Substitutes: chocolate-hazelnut spread
marzipan = marchpane = almond modeling paste Pronunciation: MAHR-zuh-pan Notes: Marzipan is made from ground almonds and sugar, and it's used to make colorful and edible decorations and confections. Look for tubes or cans of it among the baking supplies in your supermarket. To make your own: Knead together 8 ounces of almond paste, one egg white, one tablespoon light corn syrup, and a few drops of flavoring extract. Gradually add in 3 cups powdered sugar until the marzipan can be easily worked.
nut butter = nut spread Notes: If you mix roasted nuts, vegetable oil, salt, and maybe some sugar in a blender or food processor for awhile, you'll get a smooth, spreadable paste called nut butter. Nut butters can be spread on bread or crackers, blended into savory sauces, or teamed up with chocolate to make desserts. Substitutes: hummus (as a spread) OR cream cheese (as a spread)
peanut butter = peanut paste Notes: High in protein and low in cost, peanut butter is a sandwich staple. It's often teamed with jelly, but honey, bananas, onions, and even pickles work well too. Natural peanut butter is made simply of peanuts, oil, and sometimes salt. It's not very popular with consumers, though, since it needs to be refrigerated after opening, and the oil tends to separate and rise to the top. Most shoppers turn instead to commercial peanut butters, which don't need to be refrigerated and don't separate. Unfortunately, these products are made with hydrogenated oils, which are bad for you. Since many people are allergic to peanuts, it's important to alert guests if you're serving something that's made with peanut butter. To make your own:
Blend in food processor two cups roasted peanuts plus one to two tablespoons peanut oil. Store it in the refrigerator. Substitutes: cashew butter OR almond butter OR sesame paste (in savory Asian dishes) OR hummus OR chocolate-hazelnut spread
poppy seed filling Notes: Eastern European cooks like to put this into their pastries and cakes.
praline paste = praliné Notes: This paste is made with almond or hazelnut butter and sugar, and it's used to make candy and other desserts. It's hard to make yourself, since homemade nut butters tend to be gritty. Unfortunately, it's also hard to find commercially prepared praline paste, though you can order it online at www.kingarthurflour.com. The oil sometimes separates and rises to the top, so stir before using. Substitutes: chestnut puree OR chopped nuts
sesame butter Notes: This is a paste made from toasted black (i.e., unhulled) sesame seeds. It's similar to sesame paste, but thicker and darker. Once you've opened it, store it in the refrigerator unless you plan to use it up within a week or so. To make your own: In a blender, mix toasted, unhulled sesame seeds with a small amount of peanut oil (or other oil) until creamy Substitutes: sesame paste (thinner) OR 3 parts creamy peanut butter + 1 part sesame oil OR peanut butter
sesame paste = sesame seed paste = tahini = tahina Pronunciation: tuh-HEE-nee Notes: This is a paste made from ordinary white sesame seeds. It's used in the Middle East to make hummus, baba ghanouj, and sauces. The oil tends to rise to the top, so stir before using. Once you've opened it, store it in the refrigerator unless you plan to use it up within a week or so. To make your own: In a blender, mix white sesame seeds with a small amount of peanut oil (or other oil) until creamy Substitutes: sesame butter (thicker) OR 3 parts creamy peanut butter + 1 part sesame oil OR toasted sesame seeds (for hummus) OR toasted sesame oil (for hummus) OR peanut butter (for sauces)
cilantro = coriander leaf = Chinese parsley = culantrillo = koyendoro = Mexican parsley = pak chee = yuen-sai = green coriander = coriander green Pronunciation: sih-LAN-troh Notes: Cilantro leaves are used throughout the world as a fragrant herb. Hispanic cooks use it in salsas, Asians in stir-fries, and Indians in curries. The seeds (called coriander seeds), stems, and roots of the plant are also used. Cilantro doesn't cook very well, so always add it to hot dishes at the last minute. Don't confuse cilantro with Italian parsley, which looks just like it but isn't nearly as fragrant. Substitutes: Italian parsley (If you like, add some mint or lemon juice or a dash of ground coriander.) OR equal parts parsley and mint OR parsley + dash lemon juice OR papalo (similar flavor, but more pungent) OR parsley + dash ground coriander OR celery leaves OR dill (especially in Thai seafood dishes) OR basil
mint Equivalents: 1 tablespoon fresh = 1 teaspoon dried Notes: Mint is used throughout the world to flavor everything from lamb to candy. It's also a great garnish and breath freshener. Spearmint is the variety you're most likely to encounter in markets, and it's the best choice for savory dishes. Peppermint = brandy mint has a stronger flavor and is best suited to dessert recipes. Used dried mint only in a pinch--it's not nearly as flavorful as fresh. Substitutes: fresh parsley + pinch of dried mint OR basil (especially in Thai cuisine) OR shiso
baobab leaves Notes: African cooks use leaves from the massive baobab tree to thicken their stews. Like okra, the leaves give the dish a slimy texture that's characteristic of West African stews. Substitutes: okra OR file gumbo OR ogbono
kuka Notes: This African herb is a powder made from the leaves of a baobab trees. Substitutes: file powder
American Herbs
filé powder = filé = gumbo file = gumbo filé = ground sassafras leaves = sassafras leaves = file powder = file = fil powder = fil Pronunciation: FEE-lay or fih-LAY Notes: This powder is made from the same leaves that used to give root beer its distinctive flavor, back in the days before artificial flavorings. Southerners add filé to their gumbos to thicken and flavor them. The powder gets stringy when it's heated, so add it only after you've removed the gumbo from the heat source. Filé also doesn't reheat well, so add it only to the gumbo that you're planning to eat right away. Substitutes: okra (Cooking this vegetable in your gumbo is another traditional way to thicken it.) OR cornstarch (This is another thickener, but it lacks filé's distinctive root beer-like flavor.)
Asian Herbs
anise basil Notes: This is used in Southeast Asia. Substitutes: holy basil OR basil + mint
bai-toey = bai toey = bai touy Notes: This name is also used for screwpine leaves. Bai-toey leaves are about four inches in diameter, and smell a bit like a dentist's office. Look for them in Southeast Asian markets.
betel leaf = pupulu Notes: The Vietnamese wrap beef in these leaves, while others chew them like gum. Substitutes: shiso OR grape leaves
chile leaf = chilli leaf = chili leaf = la ot = rau ot Notes: This herb isn't nearly as hot as the chile that comes from the same plant. It's sometimes used as a cooking green in Southeast Asia. Substitutes: spinach (not as pungent)
Chinese chives = gow choy = garlic chives = ku chai Notes: Unlike regular chives, these have flat leaves and a distinct garlicky flavor. Substitutes: garlic shoots OR chives (not as pungent as Chinese chives) OR flowering chives
flowering chives = flowering Chinese chives = flowering garlic chives Notes: These come from the same plant as Chinese chives. They're usually marketed and cooked before the buds open. Substitutes: garlic shoots OR Chinese chives (not as pungent)
holy basil = bai kaprao = bai kaprow = bai gaprao = bai kraprao Notes: This has jagged leaves. It's fairly pungent, so it's rarely eaten raw. Substitutes: basil (This isn't as spicy as holy basil.) OR basil + mint OR basil + ground pepper OR basil + crushed red chili peppers
Indonesian bay leaf = daun salam = salam leaf Substitutes: curry leaves OR bay leaves
Indonesian lime leaves
kaffir lime leaf = makroot leaf = makrut lime leaf = magrood leaf =daun jeruk purut = daun limau purut = bai makrut = Indonesian lime leaves Notes: A kaffir lime leaf look as if two glossy, dark green leaves were joined together end to end, forming a figure-eight pattern. Most Thai recipes count each double leaf as two separate leaves. Frozen kaffir lime leaves are a good substitute for fresh. Dried leaves are much less flavorful, so use twice as many as the recipe calls for if you're substituting them for fresh leaves. Substitutes: lime leaves OR kaffir lime (One tablespoon of zest from a kaffir lime is equivalent to about 6 kaffir lime leaves.) OR lime zest (One tablespoon of zest from a lime is equivalent to about 6 kaffir lime leaves.) OR lemon leaves OR lemons (One tablespoon of zest from a lemon is equivalent to about 6 kaffir lime leaves.)
ketumbar = daun ketumbar Notes: This is hard to find, but Asian markets sometimes carry them. Substitutes: cilantro
laksa leaf = daun kesom = rau ram = Vietnamese mint = water pepper = Vietnamese coriander Notes: Vietnamese sprinkle this herb on their laksa soups. It has a strong, minty, peppery flavor. It's sold in bunches with lots of pointy leaves on each stem. Substitutes: mint OR equal parts mint and cilantro
la-lot leaf = la lot leaf = pepper leaf Notes: These are used as meat wrappers in Vietnam. Substitutes: shiso leaves OR grape leaves
lemon basil = bai maengluk = bai manglak = kemangi Notes: This has a lemony flavor, and small, pointed, fuzzy leaves. Thai cooks toss it into soups, salads, and noodle dishes. Substitutes: basil + mint OR sweet basil
lemongrass = lemon grass = citronella = fever grass = serai = sereh = takrai Equivalents: 1 small, trimmed stalk = 1 teaspoon sereh powder = 1 tablespoon dried lemon grass Notes: Thai cooks use these grayish green stalks to impart a lemony flavor to their dishes. Remove the outer leaves, then use about six inches of the base, discarding the top and the very bottom. It's best to cut lemongrass into large pieces that can be easily removed after the dish is cooked. Frozen lemongrass is a good substitute for fresh, but dried lemongrass (soaked in hot water) is only a fair substitute. Use powdered version (called sereh powder) only in a pinch. Substitutes: lemon zest (zest from 1 lemon = 2 stalks lemon grass) OR lemon verbena OR lemon balm OR lemon leaves
mitsuba = trefoil = honewort Notes: The Japanese use this to flavor soups and salads. Substitutes: watercress
rice paddy herb = ngo om Notes: Vietnamese and Thai cooks use this herb in soups and curry dishes. Substitutes: sawleaf herb OR cilantro
sawleaf herb = ngo gai Substitutes: cilantro (very similar flavor) OR mint OR basil
screw pine leaf = screwpine leaf = bai toey =bai touy = pandanus leaf = daun pandan = pandan leaf = kewra = rampe leaf Notes: These sword-shaped leaves are about two feet long. Look for plastic bags of folded leaves among the frozen foods in Asian markets. Substitutes: green food coloring (for color, not flavor) OR vanilla + green food coloring (different flavor)
serai powder = sereh powder See: lemon grass
sesame leaf Notes: This comes from the same plant that gives us sesame seeds. Koreans use them to wrap packets of meat or as a fresh herb. Substitutes: romaine lettuce (as a wrapper)
shiso = perilla = beefsteak plant Notes: The Japanese mostly use this pungent herb to flavor pickled plums. It comes in two colors: red and green. Substitutes: mint
sweet Asian basil = sweet basil = bai horapha = bai horapa Notes: This has a pleasant anise flavor, and is the most commonly used basil in Thailand. Substitutes: holy basil OR ordinary basil OR basil + mint
Thai basil = licorice basil Notes: Thai basil has purple stems and flowers. It has a milder flavor than holy basil. Substitutes: basil OR mint
tia to = tia tô Notes: These leaves are purple on one side and green on the other. They have a pleasant, peppery flavor that tastes a bit like cinnamon. Vietnamese cooks often add them to soups at the last minute. Substitutes: shiso OR sweet Asian basil
yellow Chinese chives = yellow garlic chives = yellow chives Notes: These are Chinese chives that have been shielded from the sun in order to stifle the production of chlorophyll. Use them just like ordinary Chinese chives. Substitutes: Chinese chives
European Herbs
angelica = archangel = ground ash = masterwort Pronunciation: an-JEL-ih-ca Notes: Angelica is prized for its crunchy stems, which are often candied and used to decorate baked goods. You can also use the leaves and stems to add a celery flavor to liqueurs, sauces, and vegetable side dishes. Substitutes: lovage (This also tastes like celery, and the stems can be candied like angelica.) OR tarragon
basil Pronunciation: BAY-zuhl or BAHZ-uhl Equivalents: 1 tablespoon fresh = 1 teaspoon dried. Notes: Basil is widely used in Mediterranean countries, where it flavors everything from pasta sauces to pesto, and in Southeast Asia, where it's often stir-fried with other ingredients. There are numerous varieties, ranging from the more pungent Asian basils to the sweeter and milder European varieties. Use dried basil only in a pinch--it's not nearly as flavorful as fresh. Substitutes: oregano OR thyme OR tarragon OR
summer savory OR equal parts parsley and celery leaves OR cilantro (This works well in pesto.) OR mint (especially in Thai cuisine) bay leaf = bay laurel leaf = laurel leaf = sweet bay laurel leaf Equivalents: One whole leaf = 1/4 teaspoon crushed. Substitute one fresh leaf for every two dried leaves, and one California bay leaf for every two Turkish bay leaves. Notes: Bay leaves are a staple of Mediterranean cuisines, lending a woodsy flavor to sauces, stews, and grilled meats. It's best to add whole leaves, then remove them before serving the dish. The Turkish bay leaf is smaller and less potent than the California bay leaf, but more highly prized due to the complexity of its flavor. Dried leaves are a good substitute for fresh. Substitutes: Indian bay leaves OR boldo leaves (stronger flavor) OR juniper berries (to flavor meat)
bergamot Substitutes: mint
borage Pronunciation: BORE-idge or BURR-idge or BAHR-idge Notes: Borage is best known for its attractive blue flowers, but Europeans sometimes use the leaves as an herb in salads and soups. Borage has a mild flavor that's been likened to that of cucumbers. The leaves are covered with prickly, throat-catching hairs, so it's best to either blanch them or chop them finely before serving them. Substitutes: spinach OR escarole OR burnet chervil = French parsley Pronunciation: CHUR-vil Notes: This feathery green herb tastes like a subtle blend of parsley and anise. It's far more plentiful in Europe than in America. Avoid the dried version--it has very little flavor. Substitutes: cicely OR parsley + tarragon OR fennel leaves + parsley OR fines herbes (This is a blend of herbs that usually includes chervil, parsley, chives, and tarragon.) OR parsley + dill OR tarragon (Like chervil, this is good for flavoring vinegars.) OR chives (especially with eggs) OR dill weed (good for flavoring vinegars)
chives Notes: These slender, hollow shoots have a mild onion flavor. Many cooks use scissors to cut fresh chives, sprinkling them like confetti on potatoes, eggs, and salads. Always use fresh chives--they lose much of their flavor when they're frozen or freeze-dried. Substitutes: green onion tops (These have a stronger flavor and wider shoots. If using them as a substitute for minced chives, slice them lengthwise several times before mincing.) OR Chinese chives (more flavorful)
cicely = sweet cicely = Spanish chervil = sweet chervil Notes: This fern-like herb has a strong anise flavor. It's not well known in the United States, but it's popular in Scandinavia, where it's often used to flavor desserts. Substitutes: fennel leaves OR chervil (milder anise flavor)
citronella
curly parsley = curly-leaf parsley Notes: This has less flavor than Italian parsley, but it makes a terrific garnish. Don't bother buying dried parsley--it has very little flavor. Substitutes: Italian parsley OR chervil OR celery tops OR cilantro
curly parsley
dill leaf = dillweed = dill weed Notes: You can find soft, feathery sprigs of dill leaves in markets throughout the year. Chopped dill is often paired with fish, cucumbers, potatoes, or it's added to dips, salad dressings, or cream sauces. Dill loses flavor when it's heated, so always add it to cooked dishes at the last minute. Avoid dried dill; it has very little flavor. And don't confuse dill leaves with dill seeds--though they come from the same plant, they're not good substitutes for one another. Substitutes: tarragon (especially in sauces that accompany fish or eggs) OR fennel leaves (as a garnish; looks very similar)
hyssop Pronunciation: HISS-up Notes: The leaves and small blue flowers of this plant are used as a garnish or to impart a mild, slightly bitter flavor to salads, soups, and liqueurs. Don't waste your time drying the leaves--they'll lose almost all of their flavor. Substitutes: sage
Italian parsley Notes: This is the best parsley to use for cooking--it has more flavor than the more common curly parsley. Avoid dried parsley; it has very little flavor. Substitutes: curly parsley OR chervil OR celery tops OR cilantro
lemon balm = balm = melissa = bee balm Notes: Cooks use this herb in teas, salads, jams, and soups. The fresh leaves also make an attractive garnish. Substitutes: bergamot (herb) OR lemon zest
lemon thyme Notes: This variety of thyme has a lemony flavor. Substitutes: thyme + dash lemon zest
lemon verbena = verbena Pronunciation: ver-BEE-nuh Notes: This has a strong lemon flavor that works especially well in teas and vegetable dishes. If you can't find it in the spice section, cut open lemon verbena teabags. Substitutes: lemongrass OR lemon zest
lovage = wild celery = smallage = smellage Pronunciation: LOVE-age Notes: Lovage tastes like celery, but it's even more pungent and flavorful. The only drawback but it can't withstand long cooking like celery can. Use it in any recipe that calls for celery, but use less and add it to cooked dishes at the last minute. Substitutes: equal parts parsley and celery leaves OR Chinese celery OR celery leaves (milder) OR parsley OR chervil
marjoram = sweet marjoram = knot marjoram = knotted marjoram Pronunciation: MAR-jer-um Notes: Marjoram is sweeter and milder than its close relative, oregano. It's often used to season meats and fish, and works best when its added near the end of the cooking period. Fresh is best, but frozen or dried marjoram are acceptable substitutes. Don't confuse this with wild marjoram, which is better known as oregano. Equivalents: 1 tablespoon fresh = 1 teaspoon dried. Substitutes: oregano (This is very similar, but not as sweet and mild as marjoram. Substitute two parts of oregano for three parts of marjoram.) OR thyme OR sage OR basil OR summer savory
opal basil Notes: Opal basil has purple leaves and a longer shelf life than sweet basil, but the two can be used interchangeably in most recipes. Substitutes: sweet basil
oregano = wild marjoram = pot marjoram Pronunciation: uh-REG-uh-no Equivalents: 1 tablespoon fresh = 1 teaspoon dried Notes: Oregano is a popular herb in Mediterranean countries, where it's often used to season tomato sauces, meat dishes, and pizzas. Mexican oregano has a mintier taste than ordinary oregano. If you can't find it fresh, dried oregano is a good substitute. Substitutes: marjoram (This is very similar, but milder and sweeter. Substitute two parts of oregano for three parts of marjoram.) OR thyme OR basil OR summer savory
parsley Notes: Parsley is prized both for its looks and for its fresh, grassy flavor. There are two common varieties: the mild curly parsley and the more flavorful Italian parsley. Use curly parsley if you want looks and Italian parsley if you want flavor. Parsley doesn't hold up well to cooking, so add it to cooked dishes at the very last minute. Frozen parsley is a good substitute for fresh, but dried parsley adds only color. Substitutes: chervil OR celery tops OR cilantro
rosemary Equivalents: 1 tablespoon fresh = 1 teaspoon dried Notes: The Italians are particularly fond of this pungent herb with its needle-like leaves. They often use it to flavor meats and tomato sauces. Rosemary stems, stripped of their leaves, can also be used as skewers for kabobs. Dried rosemary is an excellent substitute for fresh. Substitutes: sage OR savory OR thyme
sage Equivalents: 1 tablespoon fresh = 1 teaspoon dried. Notes: Sage is often combined with other strong herbs to flavor meat dishes and poultry stuffings. Use it sparingly; a little goes a long way. Dried sage is an excellent substitute for fresh. Substitutes: poultry seasoning OR rosemary OR thyme
savory Notes: This herb has a strong, peppery flavor, and it's often used in Mediterranean countries to flavor beans, mushrooms, vegetables, and meats. There are two varieties: winter savory and the milder summer savory. Winter savory is best suited to slowly cooked dishes like stews. Substitutes: thyme (stronger flavor) OR thyme + dash of sage or mint
summer savory Notes: Summer savory is milder than winter savory. Substitutes: thyme (stronger flavor) OR thyme + dash of sage or mint
sweet basil = Italian basil Pronunciation: BAY-zuhl or BAHZ-uhl Equivalents: 1 tablespoon fresh = 1 teaspoon dried. Notes: This is widely used throughout the Mediterranean region to make tomato sauces, pesto, and other dishes. Substitutes: sweet Asian basil (Use twice as many leaves. Sweet Asian basil is more flavorful, and doesn't wilt as easily when cooked.) OR pesto (Basil is an important ingredient in most pestos.) OR oregano OR thyme OR tarragon OR summer savory OR equal parts parsley and celery leaves OR cilantro (This works well in pesto.) OR mint (especially in Thai dishes)
tarragon Notes: The French are especially fond of this aromatic, anise-like herb. They often use it to flavor delicately flavored foods like eggs, fish, cheese, and chicken, and it's an indispensable ingredient in sauce béarnaise and in the herb mixture the French call fines herbes. Use it sparingly--a little goes a long way. Frozen tarragon is an excellent substitute for fresh, but use the dried version only in a pinch. Substitutes: dill OR basil OR marjoram OR fennel seed OR anise seed OR angelica thyme Pronunciation: TIME Equivalents: 1 tablespoon fresh = 3/4 teaspoon dried Notes: This herb is widely used in Mediterranean countries to flavor stews and meat sauces. It's often used in combination with other herbs, like rosemary, parsley, and oregano. Use dried thyme only in a pinch--fresh thyme is far more flavorful. Substitutes: omit from recipe OR herbes de Provence (This blend contains thyme.) OR poultry seasoning (This blend contains thyme.) OR Italian seasoning (This blend contains thyme.) OR savory OR marjoram OR oregano
winter savory Notes: This perennial herb has a stronger flavor than its annual relative, summer savory. Substitutes: summer savory (milder) OR thyme (stronger flavor) OR thyme + dash of sage or mint
Pasta
pasta Pronunciation: PAH-stuh Equivalents: One pound dried pasta yields the same amount of cooked pasta as 1 1/2 pounds fresh pasta. Notes: A staple of Italian cuisine, pasta is made with a dough that's kneaded and then fashioned into hundreds of different shapes and sizes. The tiniest shapes are often used in soups, long ribbons or strands with sauces, and tubes and fanciful shapes in casseroles and pasta salads. Some shapes are large enough to be stuffed and baked, and others, like ravioli, come already stuffed. Most pasta is made with semolina, a hard wheat flour, but some producers use corn, rice, spelt, and kamut. These alternative grains yield a mushier pasta, but they're a boon to people with wheat allergies.
Tips:
Recipes that call for pasta usually intend for you to use dried pasta, since sauces cling to it better.
The best dried pasta is made from 100% durum wheat semolina, and has a rough surface, the better to absorb sauces.
Fresh pasta absorbs flavors and works best with cream or cheese sauces. It cooks faster than dried pasta.
Use lots of water when cooking pasta, at least a gallon per pound. You can add salt to the water if you wish, but don't add oil. Bring the water to a rolling boil before adding the pasta. When the water returns to a boil, lower the heat to maintain a low boil. Stir occasionally to keep the pasta from sticking together. Don't cover the pot.
Pasta is ready when it's "al dente." It should be cooked completely through, yet firm enough to offer some resistance to your bite.
Drain the pasta in a colander, but don't rinse it unless you plan to use it in a casserole or pasta salad. Reserve a small amount of the flavorful cooking liquid in case the pasta becomes too dry and needs to be moistened. Serve it as soon as possible.
For pasta salads, select short, thick tubes or shapes of dried pasta for pasta salad. Don't use egg pasta or fresh pasta.
For casseroles, select tubes with thick walls or sturdy shapes. Cook them for two-thirds of the recommended time in water, then let them finish cooking in the oven.
Different kinds of pasta cook at different rates, so select shapes of similar sizes if you're combining them.
If you use a low-quality pasta, be sure to cook it in plenty of water to prevent it from getting gummy.
Don't freeze cooked pasta unless it's in a baked casserole.
Many pasta shapes comes in different sizes. The Italian suffix "ini" means smaller (e.g., spaghettini is a thin version of spaghetti), while "oni" means larger.
Suggested varieties:
For pasta salads: penne OR macaroni OR fusilli OR ruote OR rotini OR cavatelli OR conchigliette OR gemelli
To go with heavy sauces: pappardelle OR fettuccine OR perciatelli OR fusilli OR linguine
To go with light, smooth sauces: spaghetti OR vermicelli
To go with cream or butter sauces: fresh or dried fettuccine OR fresh or dried spaghetti OR smooth penne
To go in dishes with chunky, bite-sized ingredients: farfalle OR radiatore OR fusilli OR penne rigate OR macaroni OR rigatoni OR ziti OR ruote OR conchiglie OR rotini OR cavatelli
To go in soups: orzo OR acini di pepe OR orecchiette OR tubettini OR conchiglette OR ditalini
To go in baked casseroles: macaroni OR penne rigate OR rigatoni OR lasagne OR fusilli OR gemelli
For stuffing: cannelloni OR manicotti OR tufoli
Substitutes: corn pasta OR rice noodles OR couscous OR spätzle OR rice
black pasta = squid-ink pasta = pasta nera Notes: This is pasta flavored with squid or cuttlefish ink, which turns it black. It's best served with shellfish.
corn pasta Notes: This is made with corn flour instead of the traditional durum wheat. It's popular among people with wheat allergies, but it tends to get mushy. Substitutes: polenta OR kamut® pasta (Kamut® contains gluten, but it's tolerated by many people with gluten allergies.) OR spelt pasta (Spelt contains gluten, but it's tolerated by many people with gluten allergies.) OR quinoa pasta (may contain corn flour as well) OR rice noodles
dried pasta = pasta secca Notes: Dried pasta is sturdier than fresh pasta, and is the best choice for heavy sauces, pasta salads, and casseroles. Substitutes: fresh pasta
egg pasta = pasta all'uovo Notes: These have a lovely yellow color, and softer texture. Egg pasta tends to turn mushy after it's cooked, so it doesn't work well in pasta salads or casseroles. Substitutes: spätzle OR fresh pasta
fregola = fregula Notes: This Sardinian specialty is thought to be an ancestor of modern pasta. It consists of small, chewy balls made from coarsely ground semolina. It can be used as a bed for sauces, but it's also terrific in soups. Substitutes: couscous OR soup pasta
flavored pasta = colored pasta = pasta colorata Notes: Several manufacturers make flavored pastas, many of which have vibrant colors. Popular flavors include egg (egg pasta, or pasta all'uovo), spinach (green pasta, or pasta verde), tomato, beet (purple pasta, or pasta viola), carrot (red pasta, or pasta rossa), winter squash (orange pasta, or pasta arancione), squid ink (black pasta, or pasta nera), truffle (truffle pasta, or pasta al tartufo), and chile.
fresh pasta = pasta fresca Notes: Fresh pasta is more tender and absorbent that dried pasta, so it's best with light, delicate sauces. Store fresh pasta in the refrigerator for up to five days.
kamut® pasta Notes: Kamut® contains gluten, but it's tolerated by many people with gluten allergies. Substitutes: spelt pasta OR corn pasta OR rice pasta
long pasta = pasta lunga = long goods Notes: This pasta comes in the form of long rods, tubes, or ribbons. Some cooks break them up before boiling them, but purists keep them long.
malfatti Notes: Malfatti means "poorly made" in Italian, and cooks use the term for broken or irregular scraps of pasta, or for a ravioli filling without the pasta covering. Substitutes: ribbon pasta (broken into small pieces)
pasta ascuitta Notes: This term refers to dried pasta that's too big to be used in soups.
pasta sheet Notes: Use this sheet of fresh pasta in place of lasagna, or to make your own stuffed pasta. You can sometimes buy it where fresh pasta is made in-house. Substitutes: egg roll wrappers
quinoa pasta Pronunciation: KEEN-wah Notes: This is a high-protein pasta alternative for people with wheat allergies. It may contain corn flour as well. Substitutes: corn pasta OR kamut® pasta (Kamut® contains gluten, but it's tolerated by many people with gluten allergies.) OR spelt pasta (Spelt contains gluten, but it's tolerated by many people with gluten allergies.) OR rice pasta OR Asian rice noodles
ribbed pasta = pasta rigate = grooved pasta Notes: This refers to pasta with grooves or ribs on it, which help sauces cling. Ribbed pasta sometimes has a "rigate" or "rigati" adjective behind the pasta name (e.g., penne rigate or rigatoni rigati). Substitutes: pasta lisce
rice pasta Notes: This is a good pasta alternative for people with wheat allergies. It's also available as brown rice pasta. Substitutes: Asian rice noodles OR corn pasta OR kamut® pasta (Kamut® contains gluten, but it's tolerated by many people with gluten allergies.) OR spelt pasta (Spelt contains gluten, but it's tolerated by many people with gluten allergies.) OR quinoa pasta
short pasta = short goods Notes: These are pasta tubes and shapes that are relatively small, but larger than soup pasta. They tend to be sturdy, so they work well in casseroles and pasta salads. They're also easier to eat than rods or ribbons, so they're great for serving kids or large crowds. Substitutes: long pasta (broken into short lengths)
smooth pasta = pasta lisce Notes: This is pasta with a smooth surface. Smooth pasta sometimes has a "lisce" or "lisci" adjective behind the pasta name (e.g., penne lisce or ditali lisci). Substitutes: pasta rigate
soy pasta Notes: This is made with both wheat and protein-rich soy flour.
spelt pasta Notes: Spelt contains gluten, but it's tolerated by many people with gluten allergies. Substitutes: kamut® pasta OR corn pasta OR rice pasta OR quinoa pasta
truffle pasta = pasta al tartufo Notes: This is an egg pasta that's flavored with truffles. It's normally served with a cheese sauce.
whole wheat pasta Notes: Several varieties of pasta are made with whole wheat instead of a more refined flour. This makes the pasta darker but more nutritious.
Cheese
Our early ancestors probably discovered cheese when they first used animal stomachs to carry milk. An enzyme in the stomachs called rennet would have caused the milk to curdle and separate into cheese and a watery liquid called whey. People have been tinkering with that basic recipe ever since then, and there are now hundreds of different kinds of cheeses. Cheese-makers impart different flavors and textures into their cheeses by using different milks, adding various bacteria and molds, aging for different lengths of time, and so forth.
The pâte, or inner portion, of a cheese is normally encased in a rind. Natural rinds can be covered or mottled with mold, and they're often edible, though many people find them bitter and salty. Waxy rinds shouldn't be eaten.
Tips:
Always bring a table cheese to room temperature before serving it--the flavor is much better.
Younger cheeses tend to be mild, soft, and moist. As cheeses age, they become more pungent, hard, and crumbly.
Many cheeses become rubbery when cooked too long or at too high a temperature. If
you plan to cook with a cheese, select a heat-tolerant one like mozzarella or Emmental.
It's usually best to keep cheese in its original packaging. If the cheese has been cut, wrap it tightly in plastic wrap to hold in the moisture. If it hasn't been cut, wrap it first with waxed paper and then with plastic wrap--this allows the cheese to breathe.
Store cheese near the bottom of the refrigerator, where temperature fluctuations are minimal.
Harder cheeses have a longer shelf life than soft, moist ones.
Don't freeze cheese--it ruins the flavor.
Just as you'd ask your fishmonger "What's fresh today?" ask your cheesemonger "What's ripe today?"
Under-ripe cheeses haven't fully developed their flavor, while overripe cheeses become acidic and unpleasantly pungent. Some overripe cheeses develop a strong ammonia smell.
If a small amount of mold forms on the surface of the cheese, cut it off along with a half an inch of cheese on all sides of it. If there's a lot of mold, throw the cheese out.
Many lactose-intolerant people find that they can tolerate low-lactose cheeses like cream cheese, cottage cheese, Mozzarella, and Provolone.
Don't serve cheese with citrus or tropical fruits.
Cheese is usually made with pasteurized milk, which has been heated to remove harmful bacteria. Unfortunately, pasteurization also destroys friendly bacteria and enzymes, though some of these can be added back artificially once the milk is pasteurized. Some producers insist on making cheese with raw (unpasteurized) milk, believing that this gives their cheese richer microflora and better flavor and textures.
Substitutes: cheese alternatives OR nutritional yeast OR tofu OR white miso Complements: baguette OR crackers OR wine OR olives OR fruits OR nuts
pressed cheese Notes: These are cheeses which are pressed to remove moisture during their production, and then soaked in a salt bath and aged. This broad category includes most semi-firm and firm cheeses.
During the production of some pressed cheeses, the curds are cooked to expel even more moisture. These firmer cheeses usually have hard rinds, which are sometimes coated with wax. Cooked pressed cheeses include Gruyère, Emmental, Gouda, and Parmesan.
Uncooked pressed cheeses aren't as firm. They're often sweet and fruity when young, and they develop a more earthy and grassy flavor as they age. Examples include Cantal, Tommes de Savoie, and Morbier.
soft-ripened cheese = bloomy rind cheese = soft paste cheese = surface-ripened with mold cheese = soft rind cheese The rinds of these cheeses are exposed to mold, which moves into the pâte as they ripen. As they do, they become softer and maybe even slightly runny.
It's important to eat soft-ripened cheeses when they're perfectly ripe--if under-ripe, they're pasty and bland, if overripe, they become runny and ammoniated.
To fully appreciate their subtle and complex flavors, be sure to bring them to room temperature before serving them.
These are great table cheeses, and they're often served with bread, crackers, or fruit. They're not usually cooked. Most are covered with a felt-like white mold which is edible, but not to everyone's taste. This category includes Brie, Camembert, Toma, Coulommiers, Chaource, and Brillat-Savarin. See also: soft cheese
washed-rind cheese = washed rind cheese = monastery cheese = stinky cheese As they ripen, these cheeses are washed with a liquid. The moisture encourages the growth of bacteria, giving the cheese a strong odor and flavor. Many of these cheeses are soft or semi-soft and have sticky, reddish-orange rinds, which most people consider too pungent to eat. It takes a strong wine like a Burgundy or Pinot Gris to stand up to most of the cheeses in this category. Beer works, too. This category includes Limburger, Muenster, Maroilles, Langres, Epoisses, Tallegio, Abondance, Urgelia, Epoisses, Pont l'Evêque, Mahon, Reblochon, Port Salut, and Livarot.
cow's milk cheese Cow's milk cheeses are creamier than goat or sheep's milk cheeses.
sheep's milk cheese = ewe's milk cheese Sheep's milk is higher in fat than cow's milk, so these cheeses are rich and creamy. Like goat cheeses, they're also a bit tangy. Examples include Pecorino Romano (pecora is the Italian word for sheep), Roquefort, Manchego, Idiazábal, and Manouri.
goat cheese = goat's milk cheese Notes: Goat's milk lends cheese a tangy, earthy, and sometimes barnyard flavor. Varieties include chèvre, Montrachet, Mizithra, Chaubier, Humboldt Fog, Chabichou, Banon, and Bucheron.
double-crème cheese = double-cream cheese These soft and semi-soft cheeses contain 60-74% butterfat, making them rich and creamy. They're not quite as decadent as tripe-crème cheeses, which have at least 75% butterfat.
processed cheese = process cheese
reduced-fat cheese = low-fat cheese Notes: These can be gummy and insipid, and they usually have a shorter shelf life than their fattier counterparts. Reduced-fat cheeses become rubbery if they're allowed to dry out during cooking, so keep the cheese moist by adding extra liquid or by sealing in the dish's moisture with a pot lid or aluminum foil.
triple-crème cheese = triple-cream cheese Notes: These cheeses are the gelatos of the cheese word--incredibly creamy and decadent, thanks to a high butterfat content that comes from tripling the cream. They have roughly twice the fat as a typical Brie or Camembert, but they're much more buttery and rich. Some triple-crèmes are fresh, like mascarpone. Others are soft-ripened, like Boursault, Castello Blue, Brillat Savarin, and Explorateur.
vegetarian cheese When making cheese, milk is curdled with the help of rennet, an enzyme that occurs naturally in the stomach of animals. Many vegetarians object to eating cheese made with natural rennet, since its production involves the slaughter of animals. Fortunately, a lot of fine cheese is now made with vegetable rennet, which is derived from fungi, bacteria, or plants. Unfortunately, the type of rennet used isn't always marked on the cheese label. Some stores help out by adding their own labels.
soft cheese = soft paste cheese Cheeses in this category are often spread on bread or crackers to be served as snacks. They're usually not used for cooking. Most soft cheeses should be used within a few days of purchase--they spoil faster than firmer cheeses.
Varieties:
Boursault Pronunciation: boor-SOH Notes: This is a soft-ripened, triple crème French cheese that very rich and mild. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: Brillat-Savarin OR Caprice des Dieux OR St. Andre OR Excelsior OR Brie OR Camembert
Brie Pronunciation: BREE Notes: This French cheese is rich, mild, and creamy, and it's soft enough to spread easily on crackers or bread. As with Camembert cheese, the Brie name isn't protected so there are lots of mediocre knock-offs on the market. Look for French Bries--they're much better than their American counterparts. The rind is edible. For best flavor, wait until it's perfectly ripe and warmed to room temperature before serving it. Substitutes: Camembert OR Explorateur OR Paglietta OR Carre de l'Est OR Coulommiers OR Reblochon
Brillat Savarin cheese Pronunciation: bree-YAH sah-vah-RAHN Notes: This soft triple crème French cheese is rich, buttery, and mild, though some find it a bit sour and salty. Substitutes: Boursault OR Caprice des Dieux OR St. Andre OR Excelsior
Brinza cheese = Brynza cheese = Bryndza cheese Pronunciation: BRIN-zuh Notes: Look for this salty sheep's milk cheese in Eastern European markets. It's spreadable when young, but becomes crumbly as it ages. Like Feta, it's good in salads or melted on pizza. Substitutes: feta (saltier)
bryndza See brinza.
brynza See brinza.
Camembert Pronunciation: CAH-muhn-BARE Notes: This popular soft-ripened cheese is buttery rich and wonderful to spread on hot French bread. The name's not protected, so there are lots of Camemberts of varying quality on the market. Try to get a French raw milk Camembert--our pasteurized domestic versions are bland in comparison. Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: Brie OR Explorateur OR Paglietta
Caprice des Dieux Pronunciation: cah-PREES-day-DYOO Notes: This oval French cheese resembles Camembert and Brie. Substitutes: Camembert OR Brie OR Brillat-Savarin OR St. Andre OR Boursault
Carré de l'est = Carre de l'Est Pronunciation: kar-RAY-duh-LEST Notes: This is a square washed rind, moderately stinky cheese from France. Substitutes: Epoisses OR Pont-l'Evêque OR Maroilles OR Brie OR Camembert
Chaource cheese Pronunciation: shah-OORSE Notes: This French cheese is similar to Brie and Camembert, but creamier and more acidic. It's good with champagne. Substitutes: Camembert OR Brie
Coulommiers Pronunciation: koo-lum-YAY Notes: This soft-ripened French cheese resembles Brie and Camembert. Substitutes: Brie OR Camembert OR Chaource
Epoisses = Epoisses de Bourgogne Pronunciation: ay-PWAHZ Notes: This well-regarded French cheese is a member of the washed-rind or "stinky" family of cheeses, but it's a bit more subtle than Limburger, Livarot, or other siblings. It's a little runny when ripe. The rind is edible--taste it to see if you like it. Substitutes: Pont-l'Evêque OR Maroilles OR Muenster
Excelsior Substitutes: Boursault OR Brillat-Savarin
Explorateur = l'Explorateur Pronunciation: ex-plor-ah-TUR Notes: This soft, creamy French cheese is rich and complex. Substitutes: Brie OR Camembert
feta Pronunciation: FEH-tuh Notes: This salty, crumbly cheese is common in Greek cuisine. It's often stored in brine; if so, you might want to rinse it before using to remove some of the saltiness. Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: Brinza (similar but hard to find) OR Haloumi OR cotija OR ricotta salata (better than feta) OR aged chevre
hand = handkäse = handkase = harzer kase = harzer käse Notes: This German washed rind cheese is pungent and stinky. It's good with beer, but it would over-power most wines. Substitutes: Mainz OR Harz OR Limburger
Harz Substitutes: Mainz OR Hand OR Limburger OR Maroilles OR Livarot OR Brick (milder) OR Liederkranz (milder) Notes: Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature.
Humboldt fog cheese Notes: This excellent soft-ripened goat cheese has a layer of vegetable ash running down the middle. It's an excellent table cheese. The rind is edible, and fairly good. Substitutes: Morbier OR Brie
kochkäse = kochkase Notes: This German cheese is easy to spread. It's great on crackers and rye bread.
Liederkranz Pronunciation: LEE-der-krantz Notes: This cheese was invented by German-American Emil Frey, who wanted to make a domestic version of Limburger cheese. Borden acquired the brand after Frey died, and later sold the brand to a New Zealand outfit. It's hard, and perhaps impossible, to find in the United States. Substitutes: Schloss (very similar) OR Brick OR Limburger (sharper) OR Maroilles OR Livarot OR Harz OR Mainz OR Hand Notes: Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature.
Livarot Pronunciation: LEE-vah-roh Notes: This excellent French cheese is in the washed-rind or "stinky" family. Though pungent, it's not as overpowering as Limburger. The rind is edible, but it's not for faint-hearted. Substitutes: Maroilles OR Limburger OR Harz OR Mainz OR Hand OR Brick (milder) OR Liederkranz (milder)
Mainz Substitutes: Harz OR Hand OR Limburger OR Brick (milder) OR Schloss (milder) Notes: Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature.
Manouri cheese Notes: This Greek sheep's and goat's milk cheese is similar to feta, only creamier and less salty. Substitutes: feta OR ricotta salata
Maroilles Pronunciation: mahr-WAHL Notes: This is a stinky washed-rind cheese from France that smells worse than it tastes. You probably don't want to eat the pungent rind. Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: Livarot OR Pont-l'Evêque OR Reblochon OR Harz OR Mainz OR Hand OR Limburger
Paglietta Notes: This soft Italian cheese resembles Brie and Camembert. Use it within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: Camembert OR Brie
Pont-l'Evêque = Pont l'Eveque Pronunciation: POHN-luh-VEK Notes: This ancient and well-regarded French cheese isn't as stinky as other washed rind cheeses. It's best not to eat the rind. Substitutes: Reblochon OR Camembert (not as stinky) OR Maroilles (stinkier)
Reblochon cheese Pronunciation: reh-bloh-SHOHN Notes: This rich and creamy French cheese is quite mild for a washed rind cheese, but it's complex enough to be popular with gourmets. The rind is edible, but too pungent for many people. Substitutes: Pont-l'Evêque OR Brie OR Beaumont OR Esrom OR Beaufort OR tomme (nuttier taste) OR raclette OR Port Salut OR fontina
ricotta salata Pronunciation: rih-COH-tah sah-LAH-tah Notes: This mild sheep's milk cheese is used more for cooking than snacking. It's great in salads or in pasta dishes. Look for it in Italian markets. Substitutes: feta (more pungent) OR Manouri
robiola Pronunciation: roh-bee-OH-lah Notes: Two distinctly different cheeses go by the name robiola: Robiola Piemonte is a fresh cheese that's often used on pizza, while robiola Lombardia is an aged, tan-colored soft cheese used for snacking.
robiola Lombardia cheese = robiola cheese (aged) Pronunciation: roh-bee-OH-lah Notes: There are different kinds of robiola cheeses; those made in the Lombardy region are washed-rind soft cheeses that are rich and mildly pungent. Don't confuse this with robiola Piemonte, a fresh robiola cheese from the Piedmont region that's often used to top pizzas or melt into fondues. Lombardy robiolas include Robiola Valsassina = Robiola della Valsassina and Substitutes: taleggio OR Reblochon
Schloss = Schlosskäse = Schlosskase = castle cheese Notes: This Austrian cheese is a marvelous choice for people who like strong "stinky" cheeses. It's good with beer, but it would overpower most wines. Substitutes: Limburger OR Brie (not as stinky)
Saint André cheese = St. Andre cheese Substitutes: Boursault OR Brillat-Savarin OR Caprice des Dieux Notes: Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature.
Saint Marcellin cheese = St. Marcellin cheese Notes: A young version of this French cheese is so runny it's sold in small pots; a more aged version is wrapped in leaves. Both are rich and exquisite on French bread. Substitutes: Banon OR
Stracchino = Crescenza = Stracchino di Crescenza Pronunciation: strah-KEE-noh Notes: This soft Italian cheese is mild and spreadable. It's great on pizza. Use within a few days after purchasing and, for best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: Taleggio (unripened version of Stracchino)
Teleme Pronunciation: TELL-uh-may Notes: This is a California cheese with a mild, nutty flavor. The rind is edible. Substitutes: Camembert OR jack
Semi-Soft Cheeses
semi-soft cheese Notes: These cheeses are great for snacking or desserts, and a few are heat-tolerant enough to be good cooking cheeses.
Cheeses lose character when frozen, but many semi-soft cheeses can be frozen and thawed without losing too much flavor, though some become crumbly. For best results, first cut the cheese into small (1/2 pound) chunks, and wrap each chunk in an airtight package. Thaw in the refrigerator, and use the cheese soon after it's thawed.
Substitutes: cheese substitutes
Varieties:
asadero = queso asadero = Oaxaca cheese = Chihuahua® cheese Notes: This stringy Mexican cheese melts nicely, so it's great on quesadillas. Substitutes: mozzarella cheese OR jack cheese OR Muenster OR Provolone
Beaumont cheese = Tomme de Beaumont Pronunciation: boh-MAHN Notes: This French cow's milk cheese has a mild, nutty flavor. Substitutes: Muenster OR Reblochon OR Havarti OR Port du Salut
bierkäse = bierkaese = beer kaese = beer cheese = Weisslacker Pronunciation: BEER-kay-suh OR BEER-case Notes: This is a soft, stinky cheese. German like to put it on rye bread along with some sliced onion, and have it with beer. It's too overpowering to serve with wine. Substitutes: Limburger OR Havarti (This has a similar texture, but it's much milder)
Bel Paese Pronunciation: BEHL-pie-AY-zeh Notes: This is a mild, semi-soft Italian cheese that's good with apples, pears, and fruity red wines. It's also shredded and used to make pizza, risotto, and pasta dishes. Substitutes: Fontina OR Taleggio OR Gouda OR Havarti OR Samsoe OR jack OR Muenster OR mozzarella
Brick cheese Notes: This is a pungent American washed-rind cheese. Substitutes: Lagerkaese OR Havarti OR Cheddar OR Limburger (more pungent)
buffalo milk mozzarella See mozzarella.
Caciocavallo = Cacciocavallo Notes: This Italian cheese is similar to provolone. Substitutes: Provolone (not as moist, but similar) OR Kashkaval OR Scarmorza OR Kasseri OR mozzarella
California jack See jack.
casero cheese Notes: This is a mild white Mexican cheese. Substitutes: muenster OR jack
Chaubier cheese Notes: This mild French cheese is made with a blend of cow and goat milk.
corsu vecchio cheese Notes: This sheep's milk cheese comes from Corsica.
Danish Port Salut See Esrom.
Esrom = Danish Port Salut Pronunciation: ES-rom Notes: This Danish cheese is semi-soft and only slightly pungent. It's a great melting cheese and a popular ingredient in casseroles. Substitutes: Havarti OR Saint Paulin
Fiore Sardo cheese Notes: This is an Italian sheep's milk cheese. It's a bit crumbly.
Gouda Pronunciation: GOO-duh Notes: This Dutch cheese has a mild, nutty flavor. Varieties include smoked Gouda, the diminutive baby Gouda, and Goudas flavored with garlic and spices. Goudas are also classed by age. A young Gouda is mild, an aged Gouda = medium Gouda = mature Gouda is more assertive, and an old Gouda = very aged Gouda is downright pungent. Substitutes: Edam (similar, but with a lower milkfat content) OR Samsoe OR Bel Paese OR jack OR Muenster OR cheese substitutes
Haloumi = Halloumi Pronunciation: hah-LOO-me Notes: This salty, crumbly cheese from Cyprus stands up well to heat and can even be fried or grilled. Look for it in Middle Eastern markets. Substitutes: feta (similar flavor) OR mozzarella (similar texture)
Havarti Pronunciation: hah-VAR-tee Notes: This mild Danish cheese is perfect for slicing into sandwiches. It's often flavored with spices and chilies. Substitutes: Tilsit OR jack cheese OR Esrom (more pungent) OR Gouda OR Mahon
jack cheese Notes: This California semi-soft cheese resembles Muenster. It has a mild, nondescript flavor, but it's good cheese to slice into sandwiches or melt into casseroles. It also goes by California jack, Monterey jack, Sonoma jack, and Mexican jack, depending on where it was produced. Efforts to boost the flavor have produced Pepper Jack = Jalapeno Jack. Don't confuse this with aged jack, which is a grating cheese. Substitutes: Muenster OR Gouda OR Bel Paese OR Samsoe
Lagerkaese Substitutes: Brick OR Limburger (softer, stronger flavor)
Laguiole Pronunciation: Lah-YOLE Notes: This is a mild French semi-soft cheese. Substitutes: jack cheese
Lappi Pronunciation: LAP-pee Notes: This is a mild semi-soft cheese from the Lapland region of Finland. It's a good melter and works well in fondues. Substitutes: Emmenthal (very similar) OR Swiss
Limburger Pronunciation: LIM-buhr-guhr Notes: This is a very stinky and salty German washed rind cheese. It's too strong to serve with most wines, so it's often served with beer. Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: Schloss (milder) OR Maroilles OR Livarot OR Harz OR Mainz OR Hand Complements: beer OR onions OR pumpernickel bread
Monterey jack See jack.
Morbier cheese Pronunciation: MOR-byay Notes: This creamy and mild cheese has a dark stripe running up the middle, a reference to earlier times when a layer of ash was added to the cheese to protect it from insects. Morbier has a rich, earthy flavor. It's a good melting cheese, but you might want to cook with a cheaper cheese like Lappi or Havarti. Substitutes: Fontina OR Havarti OR Esrom
mozzarella Pronunciation: mah-tsuh-REHL-uh Notes: Mozzarella is one of the few cheeses that doesn't turn rubbery or ooze oil if cooked too long or too hot, so it's a key ingredient in pizzas and casseroles. It's also stretchy--the long white strings that you often see draped over the sides of pizza boxes are usually mozzarella. There are two kinds. Low moisture mozzarella is firmer and the best choice for pizza. High moisture mozzarella = fresh mozzarella is more delicate; it's often drizzled with olive oil and serve uncooked as an appetizer. It works in pizza, too, but you should first put slices of it into a colander to drain for about an hour, and put them on the pizza only during the last minute of cooking.
High moisture mozzarella is often packaged in tubs or bags filled with water--this keeps it soft but leeches out some of the flavor. Look for mozzarella di bufalo = buffalo milk mozzarella, which is more interesting than cow's milk mozzarella = fior di latte. Bocconcini (Pronunciation: BOK-kuhn-CHEE-nee) are small balls of high moisture mozzarella. High moisture mozzarellas are much more perishable than their low-moisture counterparts, so use them within a few days of purchase. Substitutes: Scarmorza OR Cacciocavallo OR string cheese (very similar, but extruded rather than molded) OR queso blanco OR Provolone OR Kashkaval OR Kasseri OR Emmenthal (another good melting cheese) OR Bel Paese OR "Tofu Rella" Italian White (a soy-based cheese substitute; use in melted cheese dishes) OR fontina (good on pizzas) OR cheddar (different flavor, doesn't melt as well as mozzarella) OR smoked tofu OR cheese substitutes
Muenster = Munster = Münster Pronunciation: MUHN-ster or MOON-ster Notes: When produced in Europe, Muenster is a mild-mannered member of the normally stinky washed-rind cheese family, though it becomes more pungent as it ages. It's delicious with dark breads and beer or Gewurztraminer wine. American muensters are much milder. Substitutes: jack OR brick OR Port du Salut OR Bel Paese
Oka Pronunciation: OH-kuh Notes: This Canadian semi-soft cheese has a mild, nutty flavor and melts nicely. Substitutes: Raclette OR Emmenthal OR Port Salut
Ossau-Iraty cheese = Ossau-Iraty-Brebis-Pyrenees Pronunciation: OH-so-ear-ah-TEE Notes: This little-known Basque cheese is made from raw sheep's milk, and it's creamy, nutty, and mellow.
pasta filata = spun curd cheeses = pulled curd cheeses = plastic curd cheeses = stretched curd cheeses Notes: These cheeses are stretched and pulled like taffy before being molded, which gives them a springy, elastic consistency. Unlike many cheeses, they stand up well to cooking. This category includes mozzarella, Provolone, Scamorza, string cheese, and Caciocavallo.
Port Salut cheese = Port du Salut Pronunciation: POOR sah-LEW Notes: Port Salut is a mild French semi-soft cheese. Don't confuse with Danish Port Salut, which is also called Esrom cheese. Substitutes: Saint Paulin OR Esrom OR Havarti OR jack OR Muenster OR brick OR Bel Paese
provolone Pronunciation: PROH-vuh-LOH-nuh OR PROH-vuh-LONE Notes: This Italian cheese is like mozzarella, only firmer and more flavorful. It's often used in sandwiches and on on pizza. Substitutes: Caciocavallo (lower in fat) OR Scamorza OR mozzarella OR kasseri OR smoked tofu OR cheese substitutes
pulled curd cheeses See pasta filata.
queso asadero See asadero.
queso blanco Substitutes: mozzarella OR Muenster
queso Chihuahua® = queso Menonita Substitutes: jack cheese
queso Menonita See queso Chihuahua®.
Saint Paulin cheese Pronunciation: SAHN poh-LAHN Notes: This French semi-soft cheese is creamy and mild. Substitutes: Esrom OR Havarti
Samsoe = Samso Pronunciation: SAM-soh Notes: This versatile Danish semi-soft cheese is mild and nutty. Substitutes: Emmental OR Tybo OR Gouda OR Bel Paese
Scamorza = Scamorze Pronunciation: skuh-MOOR-tsuh Notes: This cheese is similar to mozzarella, only smaller and firmer. It's often smoked. Substitutes: mozzarella OR Cacciocavallo OR Provolone
string cheese Substitutes: mozzarella (molded rather than extruded, but otherwise very similar)
Syrian cheese Substitutes: jack cheese OR Muenster cheese
Taleggio Pronunciation: tah-LEZH-oh Substitutes: Stracchino (ripened version of taleggio) OR Bel Paese OR fontina Notes: This creamy Italian cheese is one of the better stinky cheeses--not too tame, not too wild. It's great on crackers or bread, but it's also a good melting cheese and works well in casseroles and even on pizza. The rind is edible, but not to everyone's liking. Substitutes: Robiola Lombardia OR Urgelia cheese OR Limburger (stronger and considered inferior)
Tilsit = Tilsiter = Tilsit Havarti Notes: This is a good sandwich cheese. Substitutes: Havarti (not as flavorful) OR jack cheese OR Esrom (more pungent) OR Gouda OR Mahon
Tomme Crayeuse cheese Pronunciation: TUM cray-YOUZ Notes: This soft French cheese is rich and buttery. Don't eat the rind. Substitutes: Tomme de Savoie OR Saint Nectaire OR Muenster
Tomme de Savoie cheese = tomme de montagne Pronunciation: TUM de sah-VWAH Notes: This is a mild and pleasant French cheese that's semi-soft when young, firmer when aged. Substitutes: Tomme Crayeuse OR Saint Nectaire OR Muenster
Tybo Pronunciation: TIE-boh Notes: This mild Danish cheese is great on sandwiches. Substitutes: Samsoe
Urgelia cheese = Queso de l'Alt Urgell y la Cerdanya Pronunciation: ur-HAIL-ya Notes: This creamy Spanish cheese is a member of the washed rind (a.k.a. stinky) cheese family, but it's mild and subtle. Substitutes: Taleggio
Vacherin Pronunciation: vahsh-er-AHN Notes: This is a cheese-lover's cheese, with a complex nutty flavor. It's a good melting cheese that's often used to make fondues. Try heating it a bit and serving it with crusty French bread. Substitutes: Fontina OR Appenzell OR Emmenthal
Semi-Firm Cheeses
semi-firm cheese = semi-hard cheese Most semi-firm cheeses are pressed during production to remove moisture. As they age, they become even firmer and more pungent and crumbly.
Most of these cheeses are great for snacks and sandwiches, and many can be cooked without becoming rubbery or oily.
Semi-firm cheese tend to have a longer shelf life than softer cheeses. Many can last about 1-2 months in the refrigerator if the package isn't opened, 3-4 weeks if opened, and 2 weeks if sliced.
Substitutes: cheese substitutes
Varieties:
Abondance = Tomme d'Abondance Pronunciation: ah-bone-DAHNS Notes: This French raw milk cheese has a subtle, nutty flavor. It's a good melting cheese. Substitutes: Gruyere OR Fontina OR Appenzell
Appenzell = Appenzeller Notes: This is a creamy and pleasantly stinky cheese. Pronunciation: AP-en-zel Substitutes: Emmentaler OR Gruyère OR raclette OR Fontina
Asiago (fresh) Pronunciation: ah-zee-AH-go Notes: Don't confuse this with aged Asiago, which is a firm grating cheese. Substitutes: Provolone OR other semi-firm cheese
Beaufort Pronunciation: BOH-furt Notes: This semi-firm cheese is slightly sweet and has a nice texture. It's a great melting cheese, so it's often used in fondues. Substitutes: Emmenthal OR Gruyère OR Fontina OR Tomme OR Reblochon
Caciotta = Casciotta Pronunciation: kah-CHOH-tah Notes: This mild Italian cheese is made with a blend of sheep's milk and cow's milk cheese.
Caerphilly Pronunciation: kar-FILL-ee Notes: This Welsh cow's milk cheese is crumbly and a good melter. Substitutes: Cheddar
Cantal Pronunciation: kahn-TAHL Notes: This French cheese is sweet when young but earthy and grassy when aged. It's a reliable party-pleaser--mild but complex. Substitutes: Cheddar OR Gruyère OR Monterey jack OR Lancashire
Cheddar Notes: The curds of many English cheeses are "cheddared" or cut them into slabs and stacked to allow whey to drain off. Some cheddars have more lactose in them, making them "sharp" or acidic. Less sharp cheddars are often labeled "mild" or "medium." England supplies many fine Cheddars, as does Vermont and Tillamook, Oregon. Substitutes: Colby OR Cheshire OR American cheese OR "Tofu Rella" Amber (a soy-based cheese substitute; use in melted cheese dishes) OR nutritional yeast OR white miso OR cheese substitutes
Cheshire Pronunciation: CHESH-er Notes: Said to be England's oldest cheese, is a good cooking cheese. Blue Cheshire is a blue-veined version. Substitutes: Cheddar OR cheese substitutes
chevre (aged) = chèvre Pronunciation: SHEH-vruh Notes: Don't confuse this aged goat cheese with the far more common chevre frais (fresh chevre). Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: feta
Colby Notes: This Wisconsin cheese resembles a mild Cheddar. Substitutes: Cheddar (sharper flavor) OR Tillamook OR American OR cheese substitutes
Comte = Comté = Gruyère du Comté = Comte Gruyere Pronunciation: kohm-TAY Notes: This excellent French cow's milk cheese dates from the time of Charlemagne. It has a mildly sweet, nutty flavor, much like Gruyère. It's a very good melting cheese. Substitutes: Gruyère OR Fontina OR Beaufort OR Emmentaler
Coon Substitutes: Cheddar (not as sharp as Coon)
Danbo Pronunciation: DAN-boh Substitutes: Samsoe OR Cheddar
Derby cheese = Derbyshire cheese Includes: Derby Sage cheese (pictured), which is flavored with sage. Substitutes: Cheddar OR Vermont Sage (for Derby Sage)
Edam Pronunciation: EE-dum Notes: This has a red wax coating. Substitutes: Gouda (similar, but with a higher milkfat content) OR fontina OR Leyden cheese OR cheese substitutes
Emmental = Emmentaler = Emmenthaler = Emmenthal = Bavarian Swiss cheese Pronunciation: EM-uhn-tall Notes: This Swiss cheese is riddled with holes and has a mild, nutty flavor. It's an excellent melting cheese, and a key ingredient in many fondues. Substitutes: Jarlsberg (similar) OR Beaufort OR Gruyère OR Swiss OR raclette OR cheese substitutes
fontina Pronunciation: fon-TEE-nuh Notes: This well-regarded cheese is mild but interesting, and it's a good melter. Substitutes: Gruyère OR Emmental OR Beaufort OR Edam OR Gouda OR Bel Paese OR Appenzell OR provolone OR rablochon
gamonedo = queso gamonedo = gamoneú Pronunciation: gah-moh-NAY-doh Notes: This expensive Spanish cheese is made from the milks of cows, sheep, and goats. It's smoked, giving it a very complex flavor. Substitutes: Cabrales (very similar)
Gjetost Pronunciation: YET-ohst Notes: This tastes a bit like caramelized American cheese. Substitutes: Mysost (very similar)
Gloucester Pronunciation: GLOSS-ter Notes: This orange cheddar-like cheese comes from England. Varieties include Single Gloucester, which is ripened for only two months, and Double Gloucester, which is more highly regarded and flavorful. Huntsman cheese contains layers of Gloucester and Stilton. Substitutes: Cheshire OR Cheddar
Gruyere = Gruyère Pronunciation: grew-YARE Notes: Gruyères are excellent melting cheeses, and they're commonly used to make fondues, soufflés, gratins, and hot sandwiches. Varieties include Swiss Gruyère, Beaufort, and Comté. Substitutes: Emmentaler OR Jarlsberg OR Appenzell OR raclette OR Swiss cheese
Gruyère du Comté See Compté.
Idiazabal cheese = Idiazábal cheese = queso vasco Pronunciation: ih-dee-ah-ZAH-bol Notes: This salty, sharp and crumbly Basque cheese is made with raw sheep's milk. It's usually smoked and aged before it hits the stores. It's a good cheese to grate in salads, melt on meats, or eat with crackers. Try serving it with sherry.
Jarlsberg Pronunciation: YARLZ-berg Notes: This is a Norwegian knock-off of Emmentaler. It's mild, creamy yellow, and has large holes. Substitutes: Emmentaler OR Gruyère OR Swiss OR raclette
Kaser Substitutes: Kasseri OR Kashkaval OR Provolone
Kashkaval = Kachkeval Notes: This is a Bulgarian version of Italy's Caciocavallo cheese. It becomes much firmer as it ages and turns into a good grating cheese. Substitutes: Caciocavallo OR Provolone OR Scarmorza OR mozzarella OR Kashkaval OR Kaser
kasseri Pronunciation: kuh-SAIR-ee Notes: This salty and tangy Greek cheese is made from sheep's milk. It's great on pizza. Substitutes: Kefalotyri (in fried cheese recipes) OR Caciocavallo OR Provolone OR Scarmorza OR mozzarella OR Kashkaval OR Kaser
Lancashire Pronunciation: LANG-kuh-sheer Notes: This is a rich, tangy, and crumbly cow's milk cheese produced in Britain. It's a good melting cheese. Substitutes: Cheddar
Leerdammer Notes: This Dutch cheese is similar to Emmental or Jarlberg, only milder.
Leicester = Red Leicester Pronunciation: LESS-ter Notes: This is an English cheese that's very similar to cheddar. Substitutes: Cheddar cheese (Not as moist as Leicester.)
Leyden = Leiden Notes: This Dutch cheese is flavored with cumin and caraway seeds. Pronunciation: LIE-dehn Substitutes: Gouda OR Edam
Mahón cheese = Mahon cheese Pronunciation: mah-HONE Notes: This well-regarded Spanish cheese is a terrific snacking cheese, but it's also incorporated into casseroles. Try it with sherry. Substitutes: Gouda
Manchego cheese Notes: Don't confuse this with aged Manchego cheese, which is firm and yellow, and typically used for grating. Younger Manchego cheese is sweet and nutty. It melts nicely and is often used in quesadillas. Substitutes: Monterey jack OR mozzarella OR cheddar
Nøkkelost = Nokkelost Notes: This Norwegian cheese is seasoned with caraway seeds, cumin, and cloves. Substitutes: Leyden (a very similar Dutch cheese)
Primost See Mysost.
raclette Pronunciation: rah-KLET Notes: People often melt this Swiss cheese and dip new potatoes into it. Substitutes: Emmental OR Morbier OR Gruyère OR Swiss OR Jarlsberg OR Reblochon
Saint Nectaire cheese = St. Nectaire cheese Pronunciation: SAHN neck-TARE Notes: This French cheese has a rich, nutty flavor. Substitutes: Tomme de Savoie OR Tomme Crayeuse
Swiss cheese = American Swiss cheese Notes: This popular cheese is an American knock-off of Switzerland's Emmentaler cheese. This difference is that our domestic version usually has smaller eyes (making it easier to slice) and is made from pasteurized milk. Emmentaler has a richer, nuttier flavor. Substitutes: Emmentaler OR Gruyère OR Jarlsberg OR raclette OR cheese
Tete de Moine = Tête de Moine Notes: This is a very pungent Swiss cow's milk cheese.
Vasterboten cheese
Wensleydale Pronunciation: WENZ-lee-dale Notes: This is a fairly mild English cheese. Substitutes: Cheddar
Blue Cheeses
blue cheese = blue-veined cheese Notes: Many centuries ago, cheese was left to age in some moldy cave and became streaked with bluish-green mold. But rather than spoiling the cheese, the mold gave it a pungent and distinctive flavor, and blue cheese was born. Since then, cheese-makers learned to inject or stir mold spores into different cheeses, and many still use caves to age them.
Blue cheese--either crumbled or in a dressing--nicely balances bitter greens in salads. You can also pair it with bread, crackers, or fruit for an appetizer, or let it melt on pasta or grilled meats. Blue cheeses vary in pungency--I'd serve a mild blue cheese like Cambozola at a neighborhood get-together, and a more pungent blue like Saint Agur or Cabrales to fellow foodies that I'm trying to impress. Stilton is the most renown blue cheese, and a reliable party-pleaser.
Blue cheeses grow more pungent with age or mishandling, and it's best to use them within a few days of purchase. Like almost all cheeses, blues should be brought to room temperature before serving. Substitutes: feta cheese Complements: bitter salad greens OR port wine OR dried fruit OR robust red wine OR apples OR pears OR melons OR stone fruit OR honey OR nuts OR figs
Varieties that are best for:
Dressing salads: Stilton OR Roquefort OR Bavarian blue OR Gorgonzola OR Cabrales
Snacking: Gorgonzola OR Saga blue OR Stilton OR Bleu d'Auvergne
Melting on meats: Cabrales OR Gorgonzola OR Picon
Dressing pasta: Roquefort OR Maytag Blue OR Gorgonzola OR Danish Blue
Dessert: Saga blue OR Stilton OR Roquefort OR Gorgonzola
Varieties:
Bavarian blue Notes: This is a mild and creamy German blue cheese. It's good for crumbling on salads and snacking. Paladin Bavarian Blue is a popular brand. Substitutes: Blue Castello
Bleu d'Auvergne Pronunciation: BLUH-doh-VAIRN Notes: A moist, crumbly, and somewhat salty blue cheese from France. It's milder and cheaper than Roquefort, and it works well in salad dressings or as a snacking cheese. Substitutes: Roquefort OR Maytag Blue OR Fourme d'Ambert
Bleu de Bresse Pronunciation: BLUH-duh-BRESS Notes: This blue cheese from France is made with cow's milk, and is buttery and mild. It's a safe but unexciting cheese to serve company. An American version called Bresse bleu is milder still. Substitutes: Cambozola OR Blue Castello OR Brie OR Gorgonzola
Bleu des Causses
Bleu de Chevre = Bleuet Notes: This French blue cheese is made with goat's milk. It's shaped as a pyramid, and has a distinctive country (or barnyard, some would say) flavor.
Bleu de Gex (Pronunciation: BLUH-duh-ZHECKS) = Bleu de Septmoncel (Pronunciation: BLUH-duh-SET-mohn-SELL) Notes: The French have been producing this excellent but hard-to-find blue cheese
since the 13th century. Made with cow's milk, it's pungent without being overpowering. Substitutes: Stilton
Blue Castello Notes: This is a rich, moist, and creamy blue cheese. It's fairly mild and a good choice for unadventurous guests. Substitutes: Cambozola OR Bleu de Bresse OR Bavarian blue cheese
Cabrales = queso de Cabrales Pronunciation: cuh-BRAW-lays Notes: This is a crumbly and very pungent blue cheese from Spain. Substitutes: Picon OR Valdeon OR Roquefort
Cambozola Notes: This German cheese combines the moist, rich creaminess of Camembert with the sharpness of blue Gorgonzola. It's one of the mildest blue cheeses. Substitutes: Blue Castello (also creamy and mild) OR Bleu de Bresse (also creamy and mild) OR Brie OR Camembert OR Saga blue (considered much better) OR Gorgonzola dolce
Cashel Bleu = Cashel Blue = Irish Cashel Notes: This creamy yet crumbly blue cheese from Ireland has a tangy but mellow flavor. It's cheaper than Stilton but not quite as good. Substitutes: Stilton OR Gorgonzola OR Roquefort
Danish blue = Danablu Notes: Danish blue is rich and creamy, but it's considered inferior to Roquefort, Gorgonzola, or Stilton. Substitutes: Another blue cheese
Fourme d'Ambert Pronunciation: FOORM-dom-BARE Notes: The French claim to have been making this moist blue cheese since the time of the Ancient Romans. It's cheaper and milder than many blue cheeses. Substitutes: Saint Agur cheese OR Cambozola OR Cashel Blue OR Stilton OR Bleu d'Auverne OR Bleu de Gex
Gorgonzola Pronunciation: gore-gun-ZOE-lah Notes: Italian Gorgonzolas are creamy and mild, while domestic versions are sharper and more crumbly. A Gorgonzola dolce (DOLE-chay) is young, creamy, and mild, while a Gorgonzola naturale = mountain Gorgonzola is aged until it's firmer and more pungent. Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Some Gorgonzola cheeses can be frozen successfully, others become crumbly (but still usable in salads). For best results, first cut the cheese into small (1/2 pound) chunks, and wrap each chunk in an airtight package. Thaw in the refrigerator, and use the cheese soon after it's thawed. Substitutes: Roquefort (has a less fatty texture) OR Stilton (much firmer) OR Saga Blue cheese
Maytag Blue Notes: This American blue cheese is pungent and crumbly. Use it within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: Roquefort
Montbriac = Montbriac Rochebaron Notes: This French cow's milk cheese is a mild blue cheese that's soft and creamy like a Brie. It's coated with ash. Substitutes: Cambozola OR Bleu de Bresse OR Bavarian blue cheese OR Blue Castello
picon = picón = picos de Europa = Picon cabrales Pronunciation: pee-CONE Notes: This excellent Spanish blue cheese comes wrapped in maple leaves. It's moist, crumbly, and pungent. Substitutes: Cabrales OR Valdeon OR Roquefort
Roquefort Pronunciation: ROKE-uh-furt (Americanized) or roke-FOOR (French) Notes: This French sheep's milk cheese is considered to be one of the finest of the blue cheeses. Some Roquefort cheeses can be frozen successfully, others become crumbly (but still usable in salads). For best results, first cut the cheese into small (1/2 pound) chunks, and wrap each chunk in an airtight package. Thaw in the refrigerator, and use the cheese soon after it's thawed. Substitutes: Maytag Blue OR Gorgonzola (creamier) OR Stilton (firmer) OR Bleu d'Auvergne
Saga blue Notes: This well-regarded Danish blue cheese is soft, rich, and creamy. It's mild enough to be served to unadventurous guests, yet pungent enough to be interesting. Substitutes: Cambozola OR Brie OR Blue Castello
Saint Agur cheese Notes: This superb blue cheese is creamy, spicy, and rich. Substitutes: Fourme d'Ambert OR Cambozola OR Cashel Blue OR Stilton
Shropshire blue cheese (Pronunciation: SHROP-sure) Notes: This crumbly British blue cheese is very similar to Stilton, but it's dyed a yellowish orange. Substitutes: Stilton
Stilton cheese Pronunciation: STILL-tuhn Notes: This is perhaps the most highly regarded of all the blue cheeses. Made in England, it's firmer and milder than Roquefort or Gorgonzola. It's excellent with pears. Don't eat the rind. Substitutes: Roquefort (sharper, softer) OR Gorgonzola (sharper, creamier) OR Shropshire blue cheese (sharper)
Valdeon Notes: This Spanish blue cheese is pungent enough to be interesting without being overpowering. It's a good snacking cheese for adventurous guests. Substitutes: Cabrales (more pungent) OR Picone
Most fresh cheese is made by curdling milk with an enzyme, and then draining off the whey. The curds that remain are molded into cheese. Fresh cheeses tend to be bland, so they're often used as vehicles for other flavorings. Some, like cream cheese, are used to make dips or cheesecakes. Others, like ricotta cheese, are used as fillings for dumplings, pasta, crepes, or pastries. Still others, like cottage cheese, can be a meal all by themselves once they're perked up with herbs, fruit, or other flavorings.
Fresh cheeses have a higher moisture content and are usually lower in fat and sodium than other cheeses. Most are highly perishable, so check the expiration date when you buy them and keep them tightly wrapped or covered in the refrigerator. Moist fresh cheeses like cottage cheese and ricotta should be eaten within a week of purchase; firmer cheeses like cream cheese and farmer's cheese can usually be stored for about two weeks. Don't eat fresh cheese if mold appears on it.
Tips:
Fresh cheese work best in cold dishes. Fresh cheeses tend to break when added to hot sauces, so
add them at the last minute.
Lactose-intolerant people may prefer aged cheese over fresh, since aged cheese contains less lactose.
Varieties:
Alouette Pronunciation: ah-loo-WET Notes: This is one of several spreadable cheeses that combine cream cheese with various flavorings, like herbs, garlic, pesto, and sun-dried tomatoes. You can set them out with crackers for guests, but your gourmet friends probably won't indulge. Substitutes: Boursin (considered better) OR Rondelé
Boursin [boor-SAN] This creamy cheese from France is usually flavored with herbs, garlic or coarse ground pepper. It's mild and delicate, and goes well with fresh bread and dry white wine. Boursin is considered better than some other flavored spreadable cheeses, like Alouette or Rondelé, but none of these cheeses are well regarded by gourmets. Store Boursin in the refrigerator but bring it to room temperature before serving. Eat it within a few days of purchase.
Substitutes: RONDELÉ (a cheaper domestic imitation) OR ALOUETTE (also a cheaper domestic imitation) OR Mix together in a food processor using a steel blade: 8 ounces of CREAM CHEESE, 4 tablespoons BUTTER, 1 teaspoon minced PARSLEY, 1 teaspoon ITALIAN SEASONING, 1/2 teaspoon minced GARLIC, 1/4 teaspoon GROUND PEPPER. Chill for several hours before serving. OR CHÈVRE FRAIS
buttermilk cheese Notes: You won't find this tangy, creamy cheese in supermarkets, but it's easy to make at home. To make your own: Line a colander with several folds of cheesecloth or a kitchen towel. Pour buttermilk into the cloth, then put the colander into a larger container and let it drain overnight in the refrigerator until it's reduced to a cheeselike consistency. Substitutes: ricotta cheese (especially as a pasta filling) OR cream cheese (especially in cheesecakes)
Caprini Pronunciation: cuh-PREE-nee Notes: This is an excellent Italian fresh cheese that's hard to find in the U.S. Substitutes:
cottage cheese = smierkase Notes: This simple, mild cheese was traditionally produced in Europe's "cottages" from the milk left over from butter making. It's versatile, easy to digest, and a good source of protein. It's sold with either large or small curds, and with fruit or chives sometimes added. Use it within a few days after purchasing and discard if mold appears. It's best served chilled. To make your own: To make 2 cups (one pound), heat a gallon of skim milk to 80ºF (27ºC) using a double boiler (don't use aluminum or cast iron). Dissolve 1/4 tablet of rennet in a few tablespoons of cold water, then stir it into the milk using a whisk for a few minutes. Turn off the heat, cover, and let the mixture sit for about five hours at room temperature. Use a knife to cut the curds into half-inch cubes, then let them sit for about 15 minutes more.
Put the double boiler on the stove and gradually bring the temperature of the cheese to 100ºF (38ºC) (it should take about 30 minutes to reach that temperature), and then up to 115ºF (46ºC) (this should take another 15 minutes). Hold it at this temperature for another 30 minutes. Be sure to raise the temperature gradually, or the curds will be hard and rubbery. Stir the mixture while it cooks, more if want small curds, less if you want big curds. Pour the mixture into a cheesecloth-lined colander and drain off the whey for a few minutes. Fill a sink with ice cold water. Pulling together the edges of the cheesecloth, dunk the curds in the water for a few minutes, then put the cheesecloth-wrapped curds back in the colander to drain. (Don't rinse the curds as long if you want your cottage cheese to have a sharper flavor.) If you like, stir in a teaspoon salt and 1/3 cup of cream, milk, or sour cream. Substitutes: ricotta (higher in fat) OR pot cheese (drier) OR fromage blanc (lower in fat) OR buttermilk cheese OR yogurt cheese OR tofu (firm silken)
cream cheese = (in Europe) white cheese = queso crema Equivalents: 2 cups cream cheese = 1 pound Notes: An American favorite, cream cheese is a terrific spread for bagels and nut breads and a key ingredient in cheesecake and other desserts. It comes in low-fat and nonfat versions; these work well as spreads but compromise the flavor and texture of cheesecakes. Cream cheese made without stabilizers is also disappointing in cheesecakes, though it makes for a more acidic and flavorful spread. Store in the refrigerator. Unopened foil-wrapped commercial cream cheese is good for about a month after the "Best when used by" date on the carton. Once opened, you should use it within 10 days. Throw it out if mold appears. Substitutes: Neufchâtel (lower in fat and moister than regular cream cheese) OR equal parts ricotta and yogurt OR soy cream cheese OR tofu (use 3/4 cup tofu + 1/4 cup margarine + 1 tablespoon lemon juice to replace one cup cream cheese). OR yogurt cheese (usually lower in fat than cream cheese) OR buttermilk cheese (usually lower in fat than cream cheese) OR tofu cream cheese To make your own: Combine 2 cups
milk and 2 cups whipping cream and heat the mixture in a double boiler (not aluminum or cast iron) until it's about 90ºF (32ºC). Remove from heat and stir in 2 tablespoons cultured buttermilk, cover, and let rest in a warm place for one or two days until it has the consistency of yogurt. Pour the mixture through a colander lined with butter muslin (or several layers of cheesecloth) and drain for several minutes. Replace the muslin or cheesecloth and nest the colander in a deep bowl, wrap tightly with plastic wrap, and put the bowl into the refrigerator and let it continue to drain for a day or so until the cream cheese has the desired consistency. Add salt to taste.
farm cheese See farmer cheese.
farmer cheese = farmer's cheese = farm cheese = pressed cheese = hoop cheese = baker's cheese Notes: This mildly acidic fresh cheese is made by pressing much of the moisture out of cottage cheese. Some varieties resemble a very dry, crumbly cottage cheese, while others have can be sliced. It's primarily used for cooking. To make your own: Wrap cottage cheese in cheesecloth and place in a colander or strainer nested inside a bowl. Place in the refrigerator until much of the liquid has drained into the bowl. Substitutes: queso fresco OR queso blanco OR jack OR Muenster
Hispanic cooks like their cheese bland and salty, the better to complement their spicy sauces. They also want cheese to hold its shape when heated. Monterey jack, the standard substitute for Hispanic cheeses, tends to ooze out of chiles rellenos and enchiladas when baked. Authentic recipes call for panela or queso blanco, which soften but don't melt when heated.
Hispanic fresh cheeses often keep better than other fresh cheeses--some can be stored for months in the refrigerator.
Varieties:
Best for topping casseroles or bean dishes: queso fresco
Best for fried cheese recipes: queso para freir, queso blanco, queso panela
Best for filling casserole dishes like enchiladas: queso panela, queso blanco
Best for salads: queso panela
Best for tacos and burritos: queso panela
Best for refried beans: queso panela
fromage blanc Pronunciation: froh-MAHZH BLAHN Notes: This usually has the consistency of thick yogurt. It's expensive and hard to find, but very tasty and relatively low in fat. It makes a great topping for desserts. Substitutes: quark (very similar) OR yogurt cheese OR buttermilk cheese OR blend equal parts cottage cheese and yogurt until smooth OR cream cheese whipped with cream
fromage de chèvre frais See goat cheese (fresh).
fromage frais Pronunciation: froh-MAHZH FRAY Notes: This is the French term for "fresh cheese." This category includes fromage blanc, Petit-Suisse, and chevre frais.
gervais Pronunciation: zher-VAY Notes: Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: cream cheese
goat cheese (fresh) =chevre frais = chèvre frais = fromage de chèvre frais Pronunciation: SHEHV-ruh FRAY Notes: Don't confuse this mild fresh cheese with aged goat cheese, which is less common and more flavorful. Fresh goat cheese is like fromage blanc, only made with goat's milk. There are several varieties, including Montrachet and cabecou, which is soaked in brandy. Goat cheese is usually vacuum-packed, though many connoisseurs seek out the more perishable but tastier paper-wrapped cheeses at specialty shops. Substitutes: fromage blanc OR bucheron Complements: white wine
kefir cheese Pronunciation: keh-FEER To make your own: Line a colander with several folds of cheesecloth or a kitchen towel. Pour unflavored kefir into the cloth, then put the colander into a larger container and let it drain overnight in the refrigerator until it's reduced to half its volume. Substitutes: Neufchâtel OR yogurt cheese OR cream cheese
labanah See yogurt cheese.
labne See yogurt cheese.
labneh See yogurt cheese.
lebna See yogurt cheese.
mascarpone = mascherpone = Italian cream cheese Pronunciation: mas-car-POH-nay Notes: A key ingredient in tiramisu and zabaglione, mascarpone is velvety soft, slightly acidic, and expensive. Although Italian in origin, the name is said to come from the Spanish mas que bueno, "better than good." It's usually sold in tubs. Use it soon after you purchase it since it's highly perishable. Substitutes: Blend 8 ounces softened cream cheese with 1/4 cup whipping cream. OR Blend 8 ounces softened cream cheese with 1/4 cup butter and 1/4 cup cream OR Blend 8 ounces softened cream cheese with 1/8 cup whipping cream and 1/8 cup sour cream. OR Whip ricotta cheese in a blender until smooth (lower in fat)
Mizithra cheese (soft) = myzithra Notes: Don't confuse this with aged Mizithra, which is a hard grating cheese. Substitutes: cottage cheese
Neufchatel = Neufchâtel Pronunciation: new-shuh-TELL OR NEW-shuh-tell Notes: Neufchâtel is very similar in taste and appearance to cream cheese, but it's made from milk instead of cream so it contains less fat and more moisture. Cheesecakes made with it cook more quickly and are more prone to cracking. Use it within a few days after purchasing, and throw it out if mold appears. For best results, serve chilled. Substitutes: cream cheese (typically higher in fat) OR Boursin
paneer cheese = panir cheese = Indian curd cheese Notes: Indians like to serve this bland fresh cheese with spinach or peas. Use within a few days. Substitutes: cubes of firm tofu OR feta cheese (much saltier) To make your own: Bring one gallon of whole milk to a boil, stirring regularly. (It's best to use a double boiler to avoid scalding the milk. Don't use an aluminum or cast iron pan.) Remove from heat, then gradually add lemon or lime juice until the mixture curdles (about 3-4 tablespoons). Cover, and let the mixture sit for a few minutes. Pour the mixture into a cheesecloth-lined colander and allow the curds to drain. Rinse the curds with water and allow to drain some more, then fold the cloth around the cheese and use a weighted plate to press more moisture out of it for a few hours or until it becomes firm.
panir cheese See paneer cheese.
petit gervais
Petit-Suisse = Petit Suisse Pronunciation: puh-TEE SWEES Notes: You can buy small six-packs of this rich fresh cheese all over France, but they're hard to find in the U.S. Gervais is a popular brand. Substitutes: fromage blanc OR quark OR cream cheese
Philadelphia See cream cheese.
pressed cheese See farmer cheese.
quark = quark-curd = topfen = quarg = curd-cheese Notes: This versatile fresh cheese resembles soft cream cheese. Germans (who call is quark) and Austrians (who call it topfen) use it to make everything from cheesecake to gravy. To make your own: Combine one quart whole milk with 1/2 cup buttermilk in a clean container, cover, and let the mixture stand at room temperature for two days. Gently cook the mixture for about 30 minutes. It's done when the curd has thickened slightly and begun to separate from the whey. Let it cool and pour it into a colander lined with several folds of cheesecloth. Put the colander into a larger container, wrap with plastic, and let it drain overnight in the refrigerator until the quark is reduced to the consistency of yogurt. Makes about 1 cup. Substitutes: fromage frais (very similar) OR yogurt cheese (more acidic) OR two parts ricotta cheese and one part sour cream OR strained cottage cheese OR mascarpone
queso blanco Notes: This popular Hispanic fresh cheese is often added to casserole or bean dishes, since it holds its shape well when when heated. It's a good cheese for frying or grilling, though queso para freir is a better choice if you can find it. Substitutes: queso para freir OR queso panela OR farmer cheese OR Monterey jack
queso fresco = queso de metate Notes: Mexican cooks like to crumble this mild grainy cheese onto soups, salads, casseroles, and bean dishes. It softens but doesn't melt when heated. Where to find: Mexican grocery stores Substitutes: Mix equal parts cottage cheese and feta cheese OR farmer cheese OR cotija cheese OR feta cheese (similar texture but saltier) OR queso anejo OR mild goat cheese OR paneer OR ricotta cheese OR jack cheese
queso para freir Notes: This fresh Hispanic cheese is salty and crumbly. It's terrific for making the Caribbean specialty queso frito (fried cheese) since it holds its shape when when heated. Substitutes: queso blanco (Not as salty but also holds its shape well when heated) OR mozzarella (also fries well) OR queso panela (also fries well)
queso panela = panela = queso de canasta Notes: This popular Mexican cheese is mild and crumbly, and it doesn't lose its shape when heated. It's often mixed into bean dishes or casserole fillings or crumbled over salads and tacos. It can be fried, though queso para freir or queso blanco hold their shapes better. Queso panela is sometimes served with tropical fruit as a snack or appetizer. Substitutes: queso blanco OR high moisture mozzarella OR queso para freir OR feta OR ricotta OR drained cottage cheese OR Requeson cheese
Requeson cheese = Requesón Notes: This fresh Hispanic cheese resembles ricotta cheese, and is used to make dips and desserts. Substitutes: ricotta cheese OR Mix equal parts ricotta and cottage cheese, then place in a cheesecloth-lined colander until some of the liquid has drained off.
ricotta cheese Pronunciation: rih-KAH-tuh Notes: This Italian fresh cheese is made from the watery whey that's drained off in the production of mozzarella, provolone, and other cheeses. Ricotta cheese is sweeter and smoother than cottage cheese, and it's much richer in calcium. You can eat it straight from the tub with fresh fruit, but it's more commonly used as an ingredient in pasta dishes and desserts. Italian ricotta cheeses are made exclusively with whey, while American versions add milk as a stretcher. Low-fat versions are available, and they work quite well in cheesecakes. Use the cheese within a few days after purchasing, and throw it out if mold appears or if it tastes too acidic. To make your own: (Note: This recipe won't work with whey from milk that has been curdled with an acid.) Heat whey
until it reaches 200ºF (93ºC), stir in a small amount of vinegar, then pour the whey into a colander lined with butter muslin or a cotton pillowcase. After it's drained to the desired consistency, salt to taste. Substitutes: queso fresco OR goat cheese (fresh) OR cottage cheese (lower in fat) OR pot cheese (drier) OR Requeson cheese OR clabber cream (especially as a pasta filling) OR buttermilk cheese (especially as a pasta filling) OR fromage blanc (lower in fat) OR tofu (firm silken tofu is best; mix with Italian herbs and olive oil if using in pasta dishes)
robiola Piemonte Pronunciation: roh-bee-OH-lah pia-MAWN-tay Notes: This creamy fresh cheese from the Piedmond region of Italy is often used for cooking, and it's great on pizza. It's also served as an antipasto along with olive oil and/or fresh herbs. Piedmont robiolas include Langhe Robiola = Robiola delle Langhe, Robiola di Roccaverano, Robiola di Murazzano, and Robiolina di Bosconero. These cheeses are hard to find in the U.S. Don't confuse this with robiola Lombardia, a soft cheese. Substitutes: equal parts ricotta and mascarpone OR ricotta OR mascarpone OR chevre OR Caprini
Rondelé = Rondele Notes: This flavored cream cheese is an inexpensive domestic version of Boursin. Substitutes: Boursin
whey cheeses Most cheese is made from curdled milk that has been drained of the watery whey. Not wanting to waste the nutrient-rich whey, our ancestors discovered that they could extract more cheese from it by cooking it until the remaining proteins coagulated. Examples of modern-day whey cheeses include ricotta, Gjetost, Manouri, Mizithra, and Requeson.
white cheese See cream cheese.
yogurt cheese = chaka = labneh = lebna = labne = labanah Notes: This is a soft, tangy, and nutritious cream cheese substitute. To make your own: Line a colander with several folds of cheesecloth, a kitchen towel, or commercial yogurt strainer. Pour stabilizer-free yogurt into the cloth, then put the colander into a larger container, wrap with plastic, and let it drain overnight in the refrigerator until it's reduced to half its volume. If you like, add herbs or other flavorings. Substitutes: cream cheese (thicker consistency, not as tart, higher in calories) OR buttermilk cheese
emu Pronunciation: EE-myoo Notes: Emus are Australia's answer to the ostrich. Like ostriches, they're low in fat and taste like beef. Substitutes: ostrich OR rhea OR beef (similar texture, beef is higher in fat) OR chicken OR turkey
frog Notes: The French love frog's legs, but it's hard for some of us to get past the eerie resemblance between a frog's anatomy and our own. Fresh frog's legs are easy to find in Chinese markets, but they only show up sporadically in other markets. If you can't find them fresh, frozen frog's legs are an acceptable substitute. Equivalents: 4 pairs = 1 pound Substitutes: scallops OR white chicken meat
goat Notes: Goat meat is widely consumed in North Africa and the Middle East, but many Americans have never tasted it. It's quite lean, and if cooked correctly, it can be surprisingly good. As with sheep, the best meat comes from a young animal, or a baby goat = kid = capretto = cabrito. Meat from older goats is tougher, like mutton. Substitutes: lamb OR beef brisket
mutton Notes: After lambs are a year old, their meat is sold as mutton. Mutton is cheaper than lamb, but it's tougher, fattier, and less delicately flavored. It's more popular in Europe than in the United States. Substitutes: lamb
ostrich Pronunciation: AH-strich Notes: Ostrich looks and tastes like a cross between beef and chicken, and it's relatively low in fat. Substitutes: emu OR rhea OR beef (similar texture, beef is higher in fat) OR chicken OR turkey
rabbit Notes: Rabbit is low in fat and similar in taste and texture to chicken. Substitutes: chicken (takes less time to cook)
rhea Pronunciation: REE-uh Notes: Rheas are the South American version of ostriches. Rhea meat resembles ostrich meat, but it's even leaner. Substitutes: emu OR ostrich OR beef (similar texture, beef is higher in fat) OR chicken OR turkey
Yeast
yeast Notes: Yeast is a one-celled fungus that converts sugar and starch into carbon dioxide bubbles and alcohol. This has made it a useful ally in the production of bread, beer, and wine. There are many varieties of yeast. Bread is made with baker's yeast, which creates lots of bubbles that become trapped in the dough, making the bread rise so it's light and airy when baked. A small amount of alcohol is also produced, but this burns off as the bread bakes. Beer yeast and wine yeast are used to convert sugar into alcohol and, in the case of beer and champagne, bubbles. You should never eat raw active yeast, since it will continue to grow in your intestine and rob your body of valuable nutrients. But once deactivated through pasteurization, yeast is a good source of nutrients. Brewer's yeast and nutritional yeast, for example, are sold as nutritional supplements, and Australians are fond of yeast extracts--like Vegemite, Marmite, and Promite--which they spread like peanut butter on bread.
Varieties:
active dry yeast = dry yeast Equivalents: One package = 2 1/4 teaspoons = 1/4 ounce Notes: This is the yeast called for by most bread recipes. It's largely displaced the fresh yeast our grandparents used since it has a longer shelf life and is more tolerant of mishandling. To activate it, sprinkle it on water that's 105° - 115° F and wait for it to begin foaming (about five minutes). Look for it in the dairy case--it's usually sold in strips of three packages or in 4-ounce jars. Always check the expiration date to make sure it's fresh. Dry yeast can be stored at room temperature until the expiration date--or within 4 months of opening--but it lasts even longer in the refrigerator or freezer. Always bring yeast to room temperature before you use it. It's important to keep stored yeast away from air and moisture, so use the smallest container you can find and seal it well. Substitutes: fresh yeast (Substitute one cake for each package or 2 1/4 teaspoons of active dry yeast.) OR instant yeast (Substitute measure for measure, but don't dissolve it in
liquid first. Your bread will only need to rise once.) OR bread machine yeast (Substitute measure for measure, but don't dissolve it in liquid first. Your bread will only need to rise once.)
baker's yeast = baking yeast = bread yeast Equivalents: 1 tablespoon = 1 package = 1 cake Notes: This is used as a leaven in breads, coffeecakes, and pastries like croissants and brioche. It works by converting sugar into carbon dioxide, which causes the dough to rise so the bread will be light and airy. Yeast comes either as dry granules or moist cakes. It becomes less potent after the expiration date stamped on the package, so dough made with it may take longer to rise, or not rise at all. If the potency of the yeast is in doubt, test or "proof" it by putting some of it in warm water (105° - 115° F) mixed with a bit of sugar. If it doesn't get foamy within ten minutes, you'll need to get fresher yeast.
beer yeast = brewer's yeast Notes: This is used to produce alcohol and bubbles in beer. There are several varieties, each matched to specific varieties of beer. It's available either as a liquid or powder at beer-making supply stores. Don't confuse this with the brewer's yeast that's used as a nutritional supplement. That type of yeast is deactivated, so it won't produce any alcohol or bubbles.
bread machine yeast Equivalents: One package active dry yeast = 2 1/4 teaspoons bread machine yeast Notes: This type of dry yeast is highly active and very finely granulated so that it hydrates quickly. Breads made with this yeast require only a single rise, so this yeast is handy to use in a bread machine. Most machines will have you add this yeast last, on top of the dry ingredients. If you're not using a bread machine, add this yeast to the flour and other dry ingredients. It's often sold in 4-ounce jars. You can store unopened jars at room temperature until the expiration date stamped on the jar, but the yeast lasts even longer in the refrigerator or freezer. If you freeze yeast, let it come to room temperature before using. Substitutes: instant yeast (This is very similar. One envelope active dry yeast = 2 1/4 teaspoons bread machine yeast) OR active dry yeast (One envelope active dry yeast = 2 1/4 teaspoons bread machine yeast. Ordinary active dry yeast needs to be dissolved in water first, and the bread will need to rise more than once.) OR compressed yeast (Substitute one cake for each package or 2 1/4 teaspoons of dry yeast. This needs to be dissolved in water first, and the bread will need to rise more than
once.)
brewer's yeast Notes: This inactive yeast is rich in protein and B vitamins, and it's used a nutritional supplement. It's a by-product of beer-making, which gives it a slightly bitter flavor. If you object to the bitterness, try nutritional yeast, which is made from the same yeast strain but grown on molasses. It's more expensive but has a more pleasant flavor. You can also buy debittered brewer's yeast. Brewer's yeast comes powdered (the most potent form), in flakes (best for health shakes), and in tablets. Don't confuse this with active forms of yeast, like the kinds bakers, brewers, and winemakers use. If you eat them, active yeasts will continue to grow in your intestine, robbing your body of valuable nutrients. Substitutes: nutritional yeast (better, nuttier flavor, lighter color) OR yeast extract
fresh yeast = compressed yeast = active fresh yeast = cake yeast = baker's compressed yeast = wet yeast Equivalents: 2-ounce cake = 3 X 0.6-ounce cakes Notes: This form of yeast usually comes in 0.6-ounce or 2-ounce foil-wrapped cakes. It works faster and longer than active dry yeast, but it's very perishable and loses potency a few weeks after it's packed. It's popular among commercial bakers, who can keep ahead of the expiration dates, but home bakers usually prefer dry yeast. To use, soften the cake in a liquid that's 70° - 80° F. Store fresh yeast in the refrigerator, well wrapped, or in the freezer, where it will keep for up to four months. If you freeze it, defrost it for a day in the refrigerator before using. Substitutes: active dry yeast (Substitute one package or 2 1/4 teaspoons for each .6-ounce cake of compressed yeast) OR instant yeast (Substitute one package or 2 1/4 teaspoons for each cake of compressed yeast) OR bread machine yeast (Substitute 2 1/4 teaspoons for each cake of compressed yeast)
instant yeast = quick yeast = rapid rise active dry yeast = quick rise active dry yeast = fast-rising active dry yeast = fast rising yeast Equivalents: One package = 2 1/4 teaspoons = 1/4 ounce Notes: This very active strain of yeast allows you to make bread with only one rise. The trade-off is that some flavor is sacrificed, though this doesn't matter much if the bread is sweetened or heavily flavored with other ingredients. Unlike ordinary active dry yeast, instant yeast doesn't need to be dissolved in liquid first--you just add it to the dry ingredients. Look for it in the dairy case--it's usually sold in strips of three packages or in 4-ounce jars. Before buying it, check the expiration date to make sure it's fresh. Dry yeast can be stored at room temperature until the expiration date stamped on the jar, but it lasts even longer in the refrigerator. Substitutes: bread machine yeast (very similar; substitute measure for measure.) OR active dry yeast (Substitute measure for measure. Active dry yeast needs to be dissolved in water first, and the bread will need to rise more than once.) OR fresh yeast (Substitute one cake for each package or 2 1/4 teaspoons of dry yeast.
This needs to be dissolved in water first, and the bread will need to rise more than once.)
nutritional yeast Equivalents: 1 tablespoon powdered = 2 tablespoons flakes Notes: This nutritional supplement has a pleasant nutty-cheesy flavor and is packed with protein and B vitamins. It comes in flakes or powder and is popular with vegans and health buffs who use it to make cheese substitutes, gravies, and many other dishes. It's also a great topping for popcorn. Nutritional yeast is very similar to brewer's yeast, which is also used as a nutritional supplement and is made from the same strain of yeast. The difference is that brewer's yeast is a by-product of beer production and retains some of the bitter flavor of hops. Don't confuse nutritional yeast, which is deactivated, with active forms of yeast, like the kinds bakers, brewers, and winemakers use. If you eat them, active yeasts will continue to grow in your intestine, robbing your body of valuable nutrients. Look for nutritional yeast at health food stores. Get fortified nutritional yeast if you're taking it as a source of vitamin B12. Substitutes: brewer's yeast (inferior flavor, darker color) OR Parmesan cheese (as a condiment; higher in fat, less nutritious) OR wheat germ (works well in baked goods or sprinkled on cereals) OR yeast extract
smoked yeast = bacon yeast = hickory-smoked yeast Notes: This is yeast that's been smoked, giving it a bacon-like flavor. It's used to flavor other dishes. Don't confuse it with active forms of yeast, like the kinds bakers, brewers, and winemakers use. If you eat them, active yeasts will continue to grow in your intestine, robbing your body of valuable nutrients.
wine ball = wine cube Notes: These are balls of brewer's yeast that are sold in Asian markets. They're used to make wine.
wine yeast Notes: This is used to convert the sugar in fruit juices into alcohol and carbon dioxide. There are different varieties, each best suited to producing a certain wine. Champagne yeast, for example, produces more bubbles than other forms of wine yeast.
yeast extract Notes: This is a nutritious, pungent, and salty paste that's popular in Australia, New Zealand, and Great Britain. It's often spread with butter on bread, or mixed with hot water to make a drink Popular brands include Vegemite®, Marmite®, which is sweeter and perhaps a bit more palatable to Americans, and Promite®, which is sweeter yet but hard to find. Substitutes: miso OR beef extract OR peanut butter
yeast starter = sponge = levain Equivalents: 2 cups yeast starter = 1 package active dry yeast Notes: A starter is a mixture of flour, water, and other ingredients that's been colonized by wild airborne yeast and friendly bacteria. These one-celled immigrants lend the starter--and the breads made with it--a special character. Sourdough starter, for example, contains a strain of yeast that's tolerant of the lactic and acetic acids produced by the lactobacilli. Those acids give sourdough bread its characteristic tang. The French use a soupy starter called a poolish to make their breads, while the Italians use a thicker one called a biga. Up until the late 19th century, all yeast breads were leavened with starters, and keeping a starter alive in its crock was a routine household chore. To keep your own starter alive, wait until it's established, then store it in an airtight container in the refrigerator. To keep it healthy, bring it to room temperature once a week and remove all but about 25% of it (either make bread with it or discard it). Replace what you've taken with a mixture of equal parts warm water and flour, stir, then return it to the refrigerator. Properly maintained, a starter can last for decades, developing an ever more distinctive character as it ages. To use a starter to make bread, remove some of it (usually about 2 cups), and use it in place of other forms of yeast. Replace the amount you took with a mixture of equal parts flour and warm water. Discard your starter if it becomes orange or pink, or if it develops an unpleasant odor. It's easy to make starters from scratch, but even easier to borrow some from a friend. Since sourdough starters must be colonized by strains of yeast and lactobacilli that are particular to certain regions (like San Francisco), a homemade starter might not yield sour bread. Your best bet is to get a powdered sourdough starter mix from your supermarket or a mail order supplier. To make your own: Sprinkle 1 package of active dry yeast on 2 cups of warm water, wait 10 minutes, then stir in 2 cups of flour. Cover loosely, and let the mixture sit at about 85°.
Miscellaneous
alum = aluminum potassium sulfate = ammonium aluminum sulphate = potassium aluminum phosphate Notes: Pickling recipes sometimes call for alum to give pickles extra crunch. Substitutes: If using alum to firm pickles, consider omitting. For more information, see the Alum page of the Illinois Cooperative Extension Service. OR grape leaves (for making pickles)
bird's nest = dragon's teeth Shopping hints: Available at some Chinese markets. The white nests are cleaner and more expensive than the black ones.
cal
calcium hydroxide
cream of tartar = potassium acid tartrate = potassium bitartrate Substitutes: lemon juice (use 3 times as much) OR vinegar (use 3 times as much)
pre-gel starch Substitutes: xanthum gum OR guar gum
guar gum Notes: This thickener is very popular among people with gluten allergies. Look for it in health food stores. Substitutes: xanthan gum ( Substitute an equal amount of xanthan gum for guar gum. Xanthan gum is more expensive, but interchangeable with guar gum.) OR pre-gel starch
xanthan = xanthan gum Pronunciation: ZAN-thun Notes: Derived from corn sugar, xanthan gum is used as a thickener, stabilizer, and emulsifier. Substitutes: guar gum OR pre-gel starch
food coloring
glycerin
gypsum powder Notes: Recipes for ale and mead often call for this.
kampyo = kanpyo = dried gourd strips Pronunciation: KAHM-pyoh Notes: Japanese cooks soak these gourd strips in water, then use them to tie sushi or other food packets. They're also sometimes cooked and used as an ingredient in sushi. Look for them in Japanese markets.
lecithin Notes: Derived from soy beans or egg yolks, nutrient-rich lecithin is a wonder ingredient. It's used in cooking as an emulsifier, preservative, lubricant, and moisturizer. It's a healthful substitute for fat in baked goods, adding moisture and improving texture. Bakers use it as a dough enhancer because it helps give yeast breads more of a rise. It comes either granulated or as a liquid. Substitutes: vegetable oil (In bread recipes, substitute this for lecithin measure for measure.)
malt powder = malt flour Notes: You can make malt powder by allowing whole grains to sprout briefly, drying them, and then grinding them into a powder. Commercial malt powders are usually made with barley, and they're used extensively by commercial bakers. There are two main types of malt powder: diastatic and non-diastatic. Diastatic malt contains active enzymes which help break starch down into sugar. The extra sugar feeds the yeast in the dough, helping the bread to rise, and also gives the bread a browner crust. It's often used to make crusty breads. Non-diastatic malt doesn't have active enzymes, but it gives baked goods better flavor and a shinier, browner crust. It's used in everything from bagels to croissants to breakfast cereals. Don't confuse malt powder with malted milk powder, which also contains powdered milk and wheat flour and is used to make beverages. Look for malt powder in health food stores or baking supply stores.
mastic gum = mustikah = mistika = mustic gum Notes: It's usually sold in the form of small crystals, which you'll need to grind into a powder. Look for it in Middle Eastern markets.
meat tenderizer Substitutes: Puree pulp from papaya or kiwi fruit and spread it on meat that has been pricked with a fork. Allow it to permeate the meat for at least half and hour before cooking.
monosodium glutamate = MSG Substitutes: kelp OR omit from recipe
sake lees = kasu = sakekasu Notes: This is what's left over after sake has been pressed from the fermented rice mash. The Japanese marinate fish and meats in it to improve flavor and texture. It's available either in doughy sheets, or as a thick mush. Substitutes: sake
saltpeter = potassium nitrate = saltpetre = potassium salt Notes: This is sometimes used in curing rubs for meats. Look for it in drug stores.
slaked lime = cal = calcium hydroxide = hydrated lime = lime hydrate Notes: Don't cook with the slaked lime found in hardware stores.
soft water Substitutes: distilled water OR boil hard water for 15 minutes, then let stand for a day so that minerals can settle on the bottom OR hard water (Warning: hard water can darken and soften pickles)
stevia extract Notes: This has been touted has a healthful alternative to non-nutritive artificial sweeteners. It's quite sweet, but has a bitter aftertaste. Look for it in health food stores. Substitutes: sugar OR artificial sweeteners
vegetable rennet = rennin Substitutes: rennet (made with animal by-products)
vegetable yeast extract Includes: Marmite, Vegemite, and Promite
vesiga = sturgeon spine marrow Substitutes: bean threads (From a suggestion in Paula Wolfert's World of Food. See my sources.)
vitamin C
whipped cream stabilizer Notes: Two brands are Whip It and Whipping Cream Aid. Substitutes: unflavored gelatin
wine ball = wine yeast = wine cube
yam cake = konnyaku = ita konnyaku Notes: These bland gelatinous cakes are made from devil's root. They're popular in Japan since they're low in calories, and eating them helps suppress the appetite. Look for black or white yam cakes at Japanese markets. Substitutes: shirataki (Same thing, only in the form of noodles.)
thickeners = thickening agents = liaisons Notes: Thickeners add substance and body to sauces, stews, soups, puddings, pie fillings, and other dishes.
Tips:
Before you add a thickener to a sauce, skim the fat from the top. Once you've added the thickener, the fat will be harder to remove.
Flour is a good thickener for gravies, gumbos, and stews, since it gives them a smooth, velvety texture. It's best to mix it with fat first, either by making a roux or beurre manié, or by flouring and frying stew meat before adding a liquid to the pot. If you wish to cut fat from your diet, you can instead mix the flour with water and add it to the sauce, but you'll need to cook it for quite awhile to get rid of the starchy, raw flour taste. Sauces thickened with flour become opaque, and they may become become thin again if they're cooked too long or if they're frozen and then thawed.
Starch thickeners like cornstarch are mixed with an equal amount of cold water, then added to warm liquids to thicken them. They're a good choice if you want a low-fat, neutral-tasting thickener. They give dishes a glossy sheen, which looks wonderful if you're making a dessert sauce or pie filling, but a bit artificial in a gravy or stew.
If you get lumps in your sauce from a thickener, blend the sauce in a blender or food processor until it's smooth.
Cereal grains like oatmeal, couscous, soup pasta, farina, are often used to thicken soups.
Reduction is a slow but low-fat way of thickening sauces and concentrating flavors. Just cook down the sauce in an uncovered pan until it's thickened to your liking.
Meat and fish glaces are a time-consuming--or expensive, if you buy them ready-made--way of thickening and enriching sauces. They're made by reducing stocks until they're thick and gelatinous.
A good way to thicken soups or stews is to add grated starchy vegetables, or to purée the vegetables in the sauce.
Nuts make good, flavorful thickeners for stews, though they're often expensive and high in fat. Just grind them down to a flour or butter, and add them to the dish.
Egg yolks add a silky, velvety texture to soups and sauces, but they'll turn into scrambled eggs if they're not introduced carefully into the hot liquid.
Cream, once reduced, gives sauces a rich texture and flavor as it thickens them, but it's high in fat. To make a low-fat cream sauce, use evaporated milk mixed with a starch thickener.
Yogurt is a popular soup thickener in Eastern Europe and the Middle East.
Varieties:
beurre manié = beurre manie = kneaded butter Pronunciation: BARE mahn-YAY Notes: This flour-butter mixture is used to correct overly thin sauces at the last minute. To make it, blend equal weights of butter and flour, then knead them together. After you whisk it into a sauce, let it cook for no more than a minute or two, since sauces thickened with flour pick up a starchy taste after they've cooked for a few minutes. Substitutes: roux (This is another flour-butter thickener, but the sauce should cook for at least 30 minutes to rid itself of the flour's starchy flavor.) OR tapioca starch (This also works quickly, and it's a good choice for correcting sauces at the last minute.)
egg yolk Notes: Egg yolks make wonderful thickeners--imparting both a rich flavor and velvety smooth texture--but they're tricky to use. You can't just whisk them into a simmering sauce--they'd curdle on contact. Instead, you need to "temper" them by adding some of the hot liquid to the egg yolks, whisking the mixture together, and then adding it to the sauce. To prevent the yolks from coagulating, you need to keep the sauce below 190°, although this rule can be broken if the sauce has a lot of flour in it. Finally, never cook sauces with egg yolks in aluminum pans or they'll turn gray.
gelatins
instant-blending flour = instant flour = instantized flour = quick-mixing flour Notes: You can mix this granular all-purpose flour into liquids without getting many lumps, so it's perfect for making gravies and batters. It's also good for breading fish. Wondra flour and Shake & Blend are popular brands. Substitutes: (as a thickener) a roux of ordinary flour and butter (higher in calories) OR all-purpose flour (Mix this with water first to make a paste.) OR cornstarch (use half as much)
pectin Equivalents: 2 tablespoons liquid pectin = 4 teaspoons powdered pectin Pronunciation: PECK-tin Notes: In order to make preserves like jams and jellies, you normally cook together fruit, acid, sugar, and pectin, a substance found in certain fruits that gels when heated. Some fruits -- like quinces, gooseberries, tart apples, and sour plums -- contain enough natural pectin that they'll thicken all by themselves into preserves. Others, like cherries and some berries, need an extra boost to firm up. Jam recipes for pectin-deficient fruit normally call for liquid or powdered pectin, which you can find among the baking supplies in most supermarkets. The recipes usually specify what brand of pectin to use, and it's not a good idea to substitute one brand for another, since they have different formulas. Some brands (like Sure Jell and Certo) need acid and sugar to set, some (like Sure Jell for Low Sugar Recipes) need acid and just a little sugar to set, some (like Pomona's Universal Pectin® or Mrs. Wages Lite Home Jell Fruit Pectin®) don't need any sugar to set. Liquid pectin contains sulfite, which can cause an allergic reaction in people with sulfite sensitivites, but powdered pectin does not.
roux Pronunciation: ROO Notes: This is a thickener that's made from equal weights of flour and a fat, like butter or meat drippings. It's especially good for thickening rich, hearty stews and gravies. To make it, heat the fat in a pan, then gradually whisk in the flour. Cook the mixture, stirring constantly, for at least several minutes, then gradually whisk in the hot liquid you're trying to thicken. You must then cook the sauce for at least 30 minutes to prevent it from acquiring a grainy texture and a starchy, floury taste. Some cooks make large batches of roux, and store it in the refrigerator or freezer. Substitutes: instant flour OR cornstarch (mixed first into a paste; doesn't tolerate prolonged heating as well) OR potato starch OR rice starch (all of these make clear, not opaque, sauces) OR lentils (for soups and stews) OR beans (for soups and stews) OR rice (for soups and stews)
starch thickeners
ThickenThin™ = ThickenThin not/Starch thickener™ = NotStarch Notes: This thickener has no calories, fat, or carbohydrates. It's great for thickening gravies, sauces, and soups, but it won't set up sufficiently to make puddings or custards. A little goes a long way, so use about half as much as you would a starch thickener