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A zebra herd hot-foots it to safety after swimming the perilous, crocodile-infested waters of the Mara River during their annual migration between Tanzania and Kenya.





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Ele roadblock in the heart of Amboseli, where the delightful choices are many - wildlife, the scenic splendor of Kilimanjaro, comfortable lodges, and visits to the villages of the local tribal group, the famous Maasai.



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Ten times a thousand: the amingoes of Lake Nakuru, one of the ‘pearls on a string’ of lakes that dot the oor of the Great Rift Valley. Both greater and lesser amingoes feed here on algae, but y elsewhere to breed.



Until the late 19th century, Nairobi was just a swampy waterhole frequented

by Maasai cattle with an eye open for lurking lions. Over time, it evolved into a

city as it was half-way along the ‘Lunatic Line’ - a railway from Kenya’s coast to

Uganda, started by the British in the race to colonize Africa.

From a tented encampment, Nairobi developed into a substantial town and

by 1905 the bank listed its clients as, “A mixed lot of merchants, railway employees,

settlers, army officers and a windmill expert!” The famous Norfolk Hotel opened

its doors in 1904 and became the favored meeting place and residence for officers

and colonial guests. It continues to be a Nairobi landmark, and a city retreat

offering up-market hospitality to this day.

This is a city of many cultures, where Kikiyu, Maasai, Samburu, Somali and

other regional tribal peoples converge, as well as peoples from all over Africa. Add

to that the long-time population of Indians, muslims, orientals and westerners who

call Kenya home, and you have a city full of energy, color and ethnic variety. Some

of the grand colonial buildings do remain, but much of the city is now rather tired.

Driving in Nairobi is not a pleasant experience as the roads are full of potholes,

exhaust fumes fill the air and drivers are erratic and unpredictable. The best way

to see Nairobi is on foot.

A C I T Y T O W A L K A R O U N D

Once and perhaps still dubbed, “Nairobbery”, I don’t find Nairobi more

threatening than any other big city, and I enjoy walking around during the day

(carrying nothing of value, of course).

The most popular attractions around Nairobi are the historic Karen Blixen

Museum, and The Giraffe Center where you can stroke and feed tame giraffes. Or,

take a quick trip to Nairobi National Park just a few miles from the city center to

see the novelty of black rhinos and zebra grazing in front of a city skyline.

NairobiN A I R O B I - T h e S a f a r i C a p i t a l o f E a s t A f r i c a

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Surrounded now by the Nairobi suburb of ‘Karen’ and open to visitors, Mbogani - ‘tree house’ in swahili - is the original Kenya home of revered writer Isak Dinesen, author of “Out of Africa”.



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T H E W I N D S O R G O L F A N D C O U N T R Y C L U B

Na iro bi

In the serene tropical countryside

near Nairobi, en-route to the Kenyan

Highlands, lies the colonial splendor of

Windsor Golf & Country Club.

Extensive manicured lawns and

gardens surround the Victorian-style

hotel, which overlooks an internatioally

designed 18-hole championship golf

course, for golfers of all skill levels.

The picturesque course winds its way

through aribica coffee farms, flower

fields and a lush, verdant tropical rain

forest full of birds and wildlife.

The beautifully decorated deluxe

rooms, suites and cottages all have

spectacular views of the surrounding

landscapes. Cuisine is varied, from fine

à la carte dining to informal al fresco

meals at the poolside Conservatory.

LOCATION: 15 minutes’ drive

from Nairobi city center, Kenya.

Swim min g poo l • Golf course • Horse riding • Croquet • Tennis • Squash • GymThe exciting blend of modern and Maasai: a Nairobi fashion model struts her stuff for Focus on Africa.



Since 1902, The Stanley has played

host to some of the world’s most

recognizable names, from acclaimed

actors and actresses to renowned

authors and world leaders who have

stayed here during royal and state

visits.

Today, The Stanley boasts 220 deluxe

rooms, club rooms and tastefully

appointed suites, all of which have

been upgraded to supply every

modern convenience. It has enhanced

its old charm and remains a significant

landmark in the center of Nairobi.

No other city center hotel has such

a convenient position amongst the

busy shopping and restaurant areas

of Nairobi. It is also famous for its

cuisine, and the Thorn Tree Café is

an internationally known rendezvous

location. It was not long ago that you

could pin your notice to the ‘thorn tree’

in the the café and hope your friend

would see it when passing by some

days later. The Pool Deck Restaurant

and Health Club sit on the 5th floor,

basking in Nairobi’s warm skyline.

There are a host of historic features

at The Stanley. The Exchange Bar

was the first home of the Nairobi

Stock Exchange. The original bar in

The Stanley - The Long Bar - was

acknowledged by the English Sunday

Times as one of the ‘Best Long Bars of

The World’.

The Stanley is a perfect central

location for tourists or travelers

needing to conduct business or use

the conference and other business

facilities.

L O C A T I O N : Central downtown

Nairobi, Kenya

T H E S T A N L E Y

Na ir ob i

Hea lth clu b • Swimming pool

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This is a truly unique property only 45

minutes from Nairobi’s international

airport. Renowned as a sanctuary for

rare Rothschild giraffe, the beautiful

1932 Scottish manor and grounds are

home to the first wild giraffe to have

successfully been raised privately.

Still a private residence, Giraffe Manor

has six charming bedrooms (one of

which contains Karen Blixen’s original

bedroom furnishings) and is a most

dignified way to start and/or end your

East African safari, as a stellar guest list

of internationally known public figures

and celebrities can attest.

Owner Betty Leslie-Melville Steele

provides the perfect venue for a

magical beginning or end to your East

African safari.

LOCATION: 45 minutes drive from

Nairobi, Kenya.

T H E G I R A F F E M A N O R

In th e su bu rb of Ka ren

City tours • Shopping • Giraffe interaction

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The Giraffe Centre is a nonprofit

educational institution founded in

1983 by Giraffe Manor owners Jock

and Betty Leslie-Melville, who are

credited with saving the Rothschild

giraffe subspecies. Its purpose is to

instill conservation values and educate

and delight Kenyan school children.

Over 50,000 students visit the Center

annually, free of charge, but it is also

open to the general public who, for

a nominal fee, experience a magical

face-to-face encounter with Africa’s

gentle giants, from 9am to 5:30pm

every day of the year.

.

The Giraffe Centre’s parent entity,

The African Fund for Endangered

Wildlife, is an active part of Kenya’s

country-wide conservation efforts.

LOCATION: 45 minutes’ drive from

Nairobi, Kenya.

T H E G I R A F F E C E N T R E

near to Nairobi

Educational center • Giraffe hand-feeding

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Even armchair travelers will recognize Amboseli from the classic photograph

of elephants wandering across grass plains past tall acacia trees, flanked by the

snow-capped peak of Mount Kilimanjaro.

G A R D E N O F E D E N

Yep - this picture encompasses everything that is desirable about a safari:

unlimited space, big sky, far horizons, untamed animals and landscapes that cannot

be mistaken for anywhere else on earth. Amboseli is a Garden of Eden - which, as

we all know, had its own inherent problems - as does Amboseli.

It has so many elephants - who just love to push over trees and generally

cause havoc - that their food source is at risk. The weather plays a part as well,

swinging from flood to drought and back again. In the early 1990’s the whole

area became a swamp after ceaseless rain, while in the late 1990’s the rains failed,

turning the grass-covered plains to dust.

H U G E T U S K E R S

The runoff from Mount Kilimanjaro is a lifesaver, feeding underground

streams that rise to the surface as swampy springs. It is in these areas that great

herds of elephants are found - sometimes over 100 strong. Amboseli is known for

its huge tuskers - big old bull elephants with magnificent tusks - as well as buffalo,

wildebeest, zebra, giraffe, impala and a plethora of birdlife.

In 1883 Joseph Thomson (for whom the Thomson’s Gazelle is named)

asked, “How can such large numbers of game live in this extraordinary desert?”

Many visitors still come here and ask the same question!

Amboseli A M B O S E L I N A T I O N A L P A R K



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High above the Amboseli plain, the majesty of Mount Kilimanjaro and its companion peak, Mawenzi, greet the soft light of dawn.



Amboseli’s ElesA M B O S E L I ’ S E L E S

Two magnicent tuskers and zebra at Amboseli. The longest recorded elephant tusks measured 11’ 1”; the heaviest weighed in at 230 pounds.

Mimicking Mom - a mother and her baby in complete accord cool down with a ap of the ears.

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Family groups average about 11 members; most are females and young, as mature bulls tend to form their own herds.

A mass of elephants pausing on the roadway enthralls visitors.

The perfect setting for a wildlife experience: in sight of the snows of Kilimanjaro.

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A stormy corona of rosy light illuminates both landscape and wildlife. Atmospheric conditions in Kenya are ideal for creating dramatic weather that makes for spectacular photographs.

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Contemplating that indeneable ‘something’ that exists in the silence of the bush.

A breath-taking double rainbow, signalling the end of a storm.

Opportunities for great shots are everywhere in Amboseli.

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Vervet monkey

A Cheetah uses this tree as a high vantage point in the unceasing search for prey.

A pair of lappet-faced vultures.

A brilliantly-colored dragony, one of the tiny details that ll in the scene if one takes the time to look more closely.

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Amboseli Serena Lodge sits in the

shadow of Mount Kilimanjaro within

Amboseli National Park.

Its ninety-six rooms are individually

appointed with authentic Africana and

murals painted by a renowned local

artist. Traditional feasts and tribal

dancing take place overlooking the

waterhole where big game gathers.

Guests are invited to participate in

the lodge’s Reforestation Program by

planting a tree. In the evening, Maasai

dancers perform and informative talks

are held by the lodge naturalist.

L O C A T I O N : in Amboseli National

Park, southern Kenya.

A M B O S E L I S E R E N A S A F A R I L O D G E

Amb os el i Na ti oa nl Pa rk

Nature educ ation talks • Game drives • Game walks • Cultural events • Swimming pool • Bush meals

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T O R T I L I S C A M P

Amb os el i Na ti oa nl Pa rk

Game drives • Game walks • Village visits • Swimm ing pool • Local excursions • Bush meals

An award-winning eco-tourism lodge,

Tortilis Camp is named after the

acacia tortilis - or umbrella thorn tree.

Its carefully planned eco-sensitive

design and operation blend beautifully

into its setting facing the foothills of

snow-capped Kilimanjaro.

Seventeen spacious tents on raised

wooden platforms are shaded by

thatched roofs and include private

stone verandah and lamu (day) bed for

afternoon siestas, as well as king-size or

twin beds and full en-suite bathrooms

utilizing hot, spring-fed water and all

amenities. At Tortilis, children are

welcomed with special mealtimes and

babysitters on call as well as nature

walks geared to their interests.

Here, traditional culture is strong;

local Maasai communities live the old

lifestyle, sharing the experience of

their village (Manyatta) culture during

visits.

L O C A T I O N : in Amboseli National

Park, southern Kenya.

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Tsavo & The ChyuluT S A V O E A S T , T S A V O W E S T & T H E C H Y U L U H I L L S

In southern Kenya, the enormous stretch of land that is Tsavo is split down

the middle by the main Nairobi to Mombasa road and the infamous ‘Lunatic

Line’ railway. It was during the building of this railway in 1898 that a pair of lions

acquired a taste for human flesh and proceeded to feast on 140 railway workers.

Chief Engineer Lt. Colonel John Patterson, who finally managed to kill

the lions, wrote the book ‘Maneaters of Tsavo’, which was turned into a successful

Hollywood movie in the late 1990’s. Titled “The Ghost and the Darkness”, it

starred Michael Douglas and Val Kilmer, as well as respected South African actors

John Kani and Henry Cele.

S T R A N G E C O L O R E D E L E P H A N T S

Tsavo and the small adjacent Chyulu Hills cover an area of more than 8,000

square miles through which roam elephant herds numbering more than a hundred.

If you see red elephants instead of gray, your eyes are not deceiving you. Tsavo’s

rich brown dust, liberally applied during enthusiastic dust baths which give relief

from annoying insects, gives them a rosy photogenic hue.

The space and rugged volcanic terrain of Tsavo is impressive, with altitudes

ranging from 1,000 to 6,000 feet above sea level. Among the semi-arid plains

and scrubby vegetation lurk dark, pitted volcanic lava fields, both inviting and

daunting. Vestages of one of the youngest mountain ranges in the world, they are

just begining the long, slow process of being softened, thus their forbidding mien.

W H A T M A K E S T H E R O C K S R O A R ?

Climb Tsavo West’s ‘Roaring Rocks’ for a raptor’s-eye view of the land

where eagles rise in warm thermals, and stop to wonder why these are called ‘The

Roaring Rocks’. Is it the sound made by the wind . . . or are there lions about?

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A lion in the land of legends; as in the Tsavo story, nomadic male lions do team up to hunt with other males, usually a brother or two; however, unlike the story, few are man-eaters by choice.



This eco-friendly lodge lies on the

slopes of Kenya’s Chyulu Hills, which

look toward Tanzania’s majestic

Mount Kilimanjaro.

Chosen by Adventure Magazine as

the best eco-tourism lodge in Africa,

it is built from local materials and uses

solar technology to supply hot water

and electricity to its six luxury cottages

and one suite.

Campi ya Kanzi is proud to have

undertaken a new way of conservation,

through the complete involvement

of local tribal landlords. Guests assist

with this by contributing a daily

conservation fee towards the welfare

of both man and wildlife. This

money helps to reimburse Maasai

who have lost their cattle to lions, it

helps develop local schools and funds

medical dispensaries.

Responsible eco-tourism preserves the

wildlife heritage of this important East

African wilderness, allowing the Maasai

to continue their traditional way of life

- more than a millennium old.

This 400 square mile Maasai Reserve

has many different environments,

which is reflected in a great array

of wildlife. Beside the famous Big

Five (elephant, rhino, leopard, lion

and buffalo), many other uncommon

animals are present, such as wild dog,

cheetah and lesser kudu. Together

with classic game drives, a game walk

with your professional guide and red-

robed Maasai tracker, approaching

elephants and other big game on foot,

will be the highlight of your safari.

This has truly been the most wonderful

vacation of my life.” Chuck - Georgia,

USA

L O C A T I O N : Chyulu Hills in the

southern part of Kenya.

C A M P I Y A K A N Z I - C a m p o f t h e H i d d e n T r e a s u r e

Chyulu Hills

Game drives • Tribal village visits • Game walks • Bird-watching

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C A M P I Y A K A N Z I - C a m p o f t h e H i d d e n T r e a s u r e

Chyulu Hills

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Mt Kenya & AberdaresM O U N T K E N Y A & T H E A B E R D A R E S - C e n t r a l H i g h l a n d s o f K e n y a

If I told you that there was a snow-capped mountain with permanent glaciers

only 10 miles south of the equator, would you believe me? No one believed the

German missionary who first reported this in 1833, and it was not until 1849 that

the existence of Mt Kenya was confirmed. It still took 50 more years before anyone

climbed to its 16,900 foot summit.

The Central Highlands of Kenya are full of intrigue and the local Kikuyu

people believe that their God Ngai inhabits Mt Kenya. As a result their houses

always face towards this sacred peak and when the clouds lift from the summit at

dawn and dusk, the mountain reveals its jagged-tooth glory.

C I R C L E S O F L I F E

The Central Highlands have fertile slopes that were coveted by the

European settlers. With little regard for local tribal customs, they took possession

of large tracts of land and cultivated coffee and tea plantations or wheat and flower

farms. As colonial authorities gave less and less concessions to black Kenyans, anger

and discontent erupted in the bloody Mau Mau Rebellion of the 1950’s. Their

leader, Dedan Kimathi, hid in the thick forests of the Aberdare Range until finally

caught and hanged in 1956. In fear of their lives, white settlers streamed out of the

land of bounty into Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) and South Africa, and it occurs to

me now how the circles of life just repeat themselves!

B E W A R E O F L I O N S W H E N F I S H I N G !

The beautifully scenic and densely forested Mt Kenya and Aberdare

National Parks are famous for several tree-house hotels. From their high stilted

positions you have views over the waterhole and natural salt licks where elephants,

hyena, buffalo, lions and leopard make appearances. Best sightings are at night

when the floodlit arena receives its more timid visitors. The Aberdares are also

renowned for trout fishing but you should take note of the sign over the Chania

River bridge that tells you to “Beware of Lions”.

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The world-famous ‘Ark’ Game Lodge, in the Aberdares.



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Dramatic against the sky, Mt. Kenya’s patches of white snow against black rock led to its Kikoyu name: ‘K’enya’ or cock ostrich. The correct pronunciation for the mountain - and the country - is ‘Kin’ ya’.



LaikipiaL A I K I P I A

The Laikipia plateau sweeps right to the eastern edge of the Rift Valley

where it drops off into deeply wooded gorges and tangled riverine thickets. It is

divided into a patchwork of ranches, each of an enormous size.

In the early 1990’s many ranch owners together with the Laikipiak Maasai

realized that the tourist dollar made more profit than farming, so they transformed

their farms into game reserves. They founded the Laikipia Wildlife Forum and

built an enormous wildlife stronghold the size of Wales. This is now one of the last

refuges of the endangered Black Rhino and has the largest elephant population

outside of Kenya’s national parks and reserves.

D R E A M I N G O F A F R I C A

It is here that Kuki Gallman ‘Dreamed of Africa’ and wrote the book that

was transformed into a film starring Kim Basinger.

Laikipia is an area unknown to package tourists. The up-market lodges are

on private land and you are often greeted and hosted at dinner by the owner. You

feel more like a houseguest than a tourist. The lodges and homesteads only cater

for small numbers and you soon realize that you are one of a select few to visit this

area. You are privy to a secret that few others know - that Laikipia is one of the

most exhilarating places in Kenya.

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Unique adventures, such as camel-back safaris, are the norm in the vast expanses of exclusive Laikipia.



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Once the secret retreat of the Maasai, Laikipia was so coveted by colonists that it was eventually seized and turned to rolling farmland. Today, these farms have joined into vast, well-stocked game-viewing reserves.



A trio of sleepy hunters takes time out for a mid-day nap. Cheetahs do the majority of their hunting during the day, when other predators - who are deadly enemies - are usually asleep until late afternoon.

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Two females ank a very young baby elelphant. The only member of an elephant herd vulnerable to predators, babies are carefully tended until large enough to fend off their unwanted attentions.

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L E W A S A F A R I C A M P

La ik ip ia

Day & nig ht gam e dri ves • Nature walks • Bird watching • Lion Tracking • Camel & horse trekking • Village visits • Fly fishing • Archaeological sites • Educational talks

Formerly a 45,000 acre cattle ranch,

The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy lies

on a vast plateau 5,000 feet above sea-

level, providing stunning views of its

surroundings as well as wildlife and

birds, many of which are endangered

species.

Your hosts, fourth-generation Kenyan

Sean Hartley and his wife Judy-Anne,

are available to share their intimate

knowledge of this land and its wildlife,

and to ensure that your stay at Lewa is

both memorable and comfortable.

Comprised of 12 permanent, thatch-

shaded tents with comfortable

furnishings and full en-suite

bathrooms.

Lewa Safari Camp offers an unparalleled

oppportunity to experience a fully

working wildlife conservancy, where

you may choose to actively participate

in the day to day activities

L O C A T I O N : Laikipia plateau in

the north of Mt. Kenya, Kenya.



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L E W A S A F A R I C A M P

La ik ip ia





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A leopard can survive handily without water - but the opportunity to drink his ll from a convenient water source will not be passed up. Perhaps there is water nearby that coaxed this big cat out during daylight.



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Strange . . . but True! S T R A N G E . . . B U T T R U E ! Reticulated giraffe - and all giraffe - walk like a cat: both left legs, then both right legs.

Not an escaped domestic pet; she’s a true African wild cat.

Gerenuk obtain all of their water from browsing.

In a herd, there is always one zebra on guard duty; this group of Grevy’s zebra is no exception.

The diminutive dik-dik maintains a monogamous relationship througout his life.



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For an area as vast and as remote as parts of the Northern Frontier, transport by air is the most efcient - and visually interesting - way to travel.



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Life, Samburu StyleL I F E , S A M B U R U S T Y L E



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How to tell cheetahs from leopards? They sport distinctive black ‘tear tracks’ running from their eyes to the edge of their muzzles.



Escape to this unique oasis set in

the heart of “Born Free Country”,

home of the colorful Samburu Tribe

and former lion research site of the

great conservationists Joy and George

Adamson.

Shaba Game Reserve has a number of

unique species only found in this area

and Sarova Shaba Lodge offers you a

variety of memorable experiences, from

walking safaris and 4x4 game drives to

meals in the bush or around the fire in

the boma.

At the end of a day full of adventures,

retreat to one of the 85 chalets or the

viewing deck - all overlooking the Uaso

Nyrio River - where crocodiles can be

seen sunbathing on the bank.

This lodge has a large free-form

swimming pool that flows around the

lush gardens, giving the grounds a

beach resort feel while being in the

middle of the African wilderness.

LOCATION: Shaba Game Reserve

north of the Equator in central Kenya.

S A R O V A S H A B A L O D G E

Sh ab a Ga me Re se rv e

Game drives • Nature walks • Bird watching • Traditional dancing • Bush dining

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E L S A ’ S K O P J E

Me ru Na ti on al Par k

Day & nig ht gam e dri ves • Nature walks • River rafting • Fishing • Bush dining

In the old Northern Frontier district,

you will discover Africa at its most

alluring. The animals are shy, unused

to their human counterparts. Here,

on the crest of Mugwongo Hill, site of

George Adamson’s first camp, is sited

Elsa’s Kopje.

The lodge is named for Elsa, the

orphaned lioness raised by the

Adamsons and returned to the wild

here in the Meru - and for the rocky

outcrop, or kopje, on which it sits. Eight

private stone and thatch cottages, each

sited for privacy and the enjoyment

of expansive views, feature open-plan

rooms with en-suite bathrooms. Access

is via road, or by arrival at a private

airstrip at Mugwongo Hill.

LOCATION: Meru National Park,

north of the Equator in central Kenya.



The Great Rift ValleyT H E G R E A T R I F T V A L L E Y

The Great Rift Valley of Africa is a fault line some 3,500 miles long,

separating the grass plains of East Africa from the tropical rainforests of western

central Africa. Lakes of every size were formed.

In Kenya, they tend to be small shallow soda lakes such as Lake Nakuru.

Thousands of marshmallow-pink flamingoes and pelicans wade through these

alkaline waters, busily sifting algae and tiny crustaceans, their prime source of food,

and the reason for their delicate pink coloring. The shoreline is a blinding white

from crystallized soda.

Both black and white rhinos are found in Lake Nakuru National Park and

I have had good luck spotting leopards in daylight. Great excitment occurred on

our recent Focus on Africa safari when one participant documented the presence

of wild dogs in the region. Long absent and thought to be extinct in this area of

Kenya, such a sighting gives hope for the survival here of a seriously endangered

species that is an essential part of the African food-chain.

Further south is Lake Naivasha, whose fresh water is used for irrigation

of fruit, vegetables and acres of fresh flowers exported to Europe. Pesticides and

fertilizers have taken their toll and the lake is now in danger of dying from the very

industries it has been watering.

H A P P Y V A L L E Y

Naivasha was one of the first areas settled by Wazungus (whites), and in the

1930’s this became the ‘Happy Valley’ of Kenya, with a social set intent on having

as much scandalous fun as possible! The film ‘White Mischief’ epitomized the

gaiety and, sometimes, tragedy of those colonial times when British ex-pats came

to pioneer farms and the minor aristocracy came to ‘play’.

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Lake Nakuru, most famous of the lakes formed by the ssure of the Great Rift Valley, is a soda lake where the environment is ideal for the growth of crustaceans and algae, the chosen foods for amingo and pelicans.

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Life Around the LakeL I F E A R O U N D T H E L A K E

Lake Nakuru’s birds bathe daily to remove soda residue from the lake.

A Defassa waterbuck has exceptionally long horns.

A ock of lesser amingoes, most gregarious of birds. Flocks can number in the thousands.

Deep green foliage echoes the emerald-like glint in this leopard’s eyes.

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At Lake Nakuru, one is assured of seeing white rhino.



Here, daylight sightings of leopard are common.

A pair if marabou storks

Olive baboon

Ungainly on the ground, when a pelican takes to the air, it’s poetry in motion. A good view of the pelican’s distendable pouch, the pefect tool for shing ‘on the y’.

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Sunset over Lake Nakuru brings out another colorful aspect of the lake’s personality: a vast tranquillity punctuated with the sounds of birds settling to rest for the night.

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Well spotted, Dr. George Shey! A recent Focus on Africa participant, Dr. Shey was fortunate in this welcome sighting at Lake Nakuru of a species thought to be absent permanently from this region.

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Just a couple of hours away from the

hustle & bustle of Nairobi is Sarova

Lion Hill Lodge, a beautiful retreatset in Lake Nakuru National Park

– home to thousands of pink flamingos

and pelicans.

This exotic park boasts a rich

concentration of wildlife, including

black and white colobus monkeys

and is also a famed rhino sanctuary.

Look for temperamental black rhinos

browsing on bushes, and larger whiterhinos cropping the grass along the

lakeside. Nowhere else will you get a

photo of a rhino backed by a mirage of

pastel pink flamingos on a shimmering

soda lake. The National Park is full

of unusual environments including

strange cactus-like Euphorbia treesand eerie forests of flakey-barked fever

trees 100 feet tall. It has also become

renowned for its leopard sightings.

Sarova Lion Hill lodge is considered

to be the best lodge on the lake, with

67 chalets overlooking the gunmetal

blue water. It is the perfect place to

experience one of the world’s largest

ornithological spectacles, so be sure tobring your binoculars.

L O C A T I O N : in Lake Nakuru

National Park, Rift Valley, Kenya.

S A R O V A L I O N H I L L L O D G E

La ke Na ku ru

Game drives • Nature walks • Bird-watching • Traditional dancing • Bush dining

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I am often asked which is my favorite game-rich area in Africa, and I would

have to say the Masai Mara is at the top of my list. Perhaps it is the abundant

wildlife, or the diverse habitats, ideal climate, and wildebeest migration, - or the

colorful Maasai people - that keep me coming back.

The ‘Mara’ is a land of ‘big skies’. It is African savannah as you have always

imagined it, with or without the help of movies like ‘Out of Africa’, much of whichwas filmed here. The open plains are ruled by Simba - the ‘Lion King’, who shares

equal standing in strength and power with the tall, proud Maasai people.

The Masai Mara receives more visitors than any other reserve in East Africa

and the density of game, especially during the migration, is so great that you are

likely to see hundreds if not thousands of animals during your stay. The golden

afternoon light is perfect for photography and you can take home superb pictures

of lion, elephant, cheetah, giraffe, leopard and all the plains game.

C A N D Y - S T R I P E D B A L L O O N S

One fabulous way to see wildlife is from a huge candy-striped hot-air

balloon. After an hour of divine lightness, you land among whatever game happens

to be standing there, and commence a champagne breakfast while the animals stareat you (instead of you staring at them!). Who could ask for more?

T H E M A A S A I - P R O U D E S T W A R R I O R S I N K E N Y A

The Maasai are pastoralists who do not hunt for meat or farm the land -

these pursuits are considered demeaning. Instead they herd cattle and goats, which

is a far more sedate affair.

Masai MaraM A S A I M A R A R E S E R V E

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The wide-open sweep of the Masai Mara



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The traditional head-dress of a ilmorani in his full glory. Maasai adornment relies heavily on intricate beading, shellwork and feathers; ostrich feathers, cowrie shells and bead colors each have a symbolic meaning.



“I hope your cattle are well.” This greeting indicates the revered status that

cattle have in Maasai culture and spiritual beliefs. The community live primarily

on what their cows provide; leather, meat, dung to make the walls of their huts,

horns for containers, urine for medicine, milk and iron-rich blood drunk warm togive strength.

L E S S O N S T O L E A R N

The Maasai are a very proud people, almost aloof, with a conviction that

their lifestyle is the only true way. They are both adaptable and intractable and will

often work at the lodges and learn to speak English, but still look at western society

with some disdain. A lady guest visiting a Maasai village once asked a Maasai

Warrior where he learned such good English. The Warrior replied, “Connecticut,”

and went on to explain that he had earned a Masters in Business Administration

from Yale. On hearing this she quizzed, “Then why are you here?” He replied,“Because I like it here!”

The Maasai tend to work no harder than they need to and have celebrations

at any opportunity. Perhaps their peaceful egalitarian society, which revolves

around the cycles of life instead of material acquisitions and the work ethic, may

hold some lessons for office-weary westerners.

T H E G R E A T E S T M I G R A T I O N O N E A R T H

The urge to move northwards in search of better grazing is so overpowering

that more than a million wildebeest, accompanied by hundreds of thousands of

zebras and many gazelles, take part in the greatest migration on earth every year.

Every July (or sometimes August), they travel over 600 miles from

Tanzania’s Serengeti, northwards to the Masai Mara, knowing that the grass

really is greener on the other side. The Mara River is the final obstacle before

the sweet grass plains. The river is swollen from the rains, the current is strong

and the banks are steep and slippery. Monstrous Nile crocodiles wait impatiently

for their annual feast and carnivores laze on the other side knowing they will soon

have their fill.

S I N G L E F I L E M I G R A T I O NOnce across, the wildebeest form orderly lines, often with a zebra in the

lead, and snake off into the distance until they feel they have ‘arrived’. Then they

fan out into great herds and become the noisiest antelope on the African plains.

Only they know when it is time to leave - which is usually some time in

November - at which point the whole process is reversed.

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A typical Maasai cattle herd and its warrior guardians. Cattle equate wealth in this culture, thus the presence of warrior guards to prevent theft.



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The beginning edge of the Great Migration: the single-column travel of wildebeest from Tanzania to Kenya and back has gone on for many thousands of years - and, hopefully, will continue on for many more.



Masai Mara’s ‘Big Five’ M A S A I M A R A ’ S ‘ B I G F I V E ’

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Storms over the Mara are sudden, and sometimes violent, causing dramatic weather - and wonderful opportunities for capturing images that are striking in their visual impact.

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King - and Queen - of BeastsK I N G - A N D Q U E E N - O F B E A S T S

An adult lion can cover the length of a football eld in 4.4 seconds!

Lions cannot chew meat, so must tear off and gulp chunks of esh.

A member of the pride, on the lookout.

Cubs are raised communally , including nursing from a variety of ‘moms’. A female lion can consume up to 60 lbs of meat at one feeding.

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Lions will spend up to 20 hours a day resting or sleeping, to avoid heat stress.

During courtship, lions will mate 2 - 3 times an hour, for several days.

To protect cubs from threat, a lioness will move them.

Flies and ticks are constant annoyances; a good scratch helps.

Lions drink as often as water is available.

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. . . and Members of their Court. . . A N D M E M B E R S O F T H E I R C O U R T

Olive baboon

The common wildebeest, famous for its ‘great migration’.

Grant’s gazelle and baby

Warthog mother and piglets

A pair of Masai giraffe Unlike the Grevy zebra, plains zebra stripes are irregular and meet under the belly.

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The Clean-Up CrrewT H E C L E A N - U P C R E W

Vultures, though unappealing in appearance, are essential to the Mara eco-system.

After the wild dog, hyenas are the most successful of all pack predators.

A cheetah is the only cat that cannot retract its claws. More closely related to birds than to reptiles, a croc can lunge from the water at 40 mph.

The black-backed jackal, an opportunistic hunter.

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The Maasai of the MaraT H E M A A S A I O F T H E M A R A



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Born in a hollow of high grass or brush, baby cheetah open their eyes at two weeks and remain hidden for the rst six weeks of their lives, moved frequently by their mother to prevent discovery by predators.



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Tiny TreatsT I N Y T R E A T S

Southern tree hyrax Serval

A trio of pied kingshers

Fruit bat

Golden jackal pups

Yellow-throated long-claw

Honeysuckle vine

Bouganvilla and beetle

Unidentied bloom

Unidentied buttery on lobelia blossom



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The Great Migration - 2004T H E G R E A T M I G R A T I O N - 2 0 0 4

The drama begins with the arrival at Mara River of tens of thousands of wildebeest, zebra and antelope.

The theatre of the drama: the rain-swollen Mara River, thick with hungy crocodiles and prowled by predators.

When the pressure becomes unbearaable, the rush to plunge in and swim begins.

It’s a frantic race to survive the crossing; many are swept away or taken by crocs.



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Plains zebra swim for their lives - and for access to the sweet, new grass now growing in the Mara.

Exhausted beasts scramble for safety - predators also await them on this shore, looking to take down the weak or injured.

The Great Migration draws awe-struck visitors from all over the world.

Nile crocodiles wait patiently to gorge on this annual banquet.



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After a hour of spectacular aerial game-viewing, this group of visitors begins the descent for a bush breakfast amongst the wildebeest and zebra below.

S A R O V A M A R A C A M P



Nothing captures the true spirit of East

Africa like a safari in Kenya’s richest

game sanctuary, the Masai Mara.

Sarova Mara Camp, set within the

reserve, provides the ultimate safari

experience with its 75 deluxe en-suite

tents set amongst indigenous plants

and the open plains beyond.

Walk around the large camp without

fear - it has been fenced to keep out

dangerous animals. Stroll the walkways

or birdwatch from the bridge over the

lily ponds.

A swimming pool is such a treat at a

safari camp, and this one will cool you

off in the heat of the day when all the

animals are resting, as you should be,

too. Expect a wide choice of extremelygood food at all meals, which are

served in the main lodge. Here you

will also find a bar and entertainment

area where Maasai warriors perform

traditional dances to the amazement

of visitors.

This lodge is the base camp for hot

air balloon flights over the endless

grass plains. Float for an hour, then

land amongst the animals for a full

champagne breakfast cooked by a chef in whites.

LOCATION: in the western section

of the Masai Mara, Kenya.

S A R O V A M A R A C A M P

Ma sa i Ma ra

Game drives • Bird-watching • Hot air ballooning • Game walks • Bush dining

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M A R A S E R E N A S A F A R I L O D G E



M A R A S E R E N A S A F A R I L O D G E

Ma sa i Ma ra

This safari lodge with a semi-circular

arrangement of guest rooms, is a

modern interpretation of a traditional

Masai village. Set upon the saddle of

a hill, the lodge overlooks the Mara

Triangle of rolling plains, patches of

forest and the Mara River - over which

thousands of wildebeest cross during

the migration.

The lodge has the most spectacular

view in the Masai Mara and game

drives along the river, across the plains

or down to the hippo pool are very

rewarding. Hot air balloons safaris are

also available.

L O C A T I O N : Masai Mara, Kenya

Day gam e dri ves • Hot air ballooning • Game walks • Maasai cultural visits

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O L O N A N A



This elegant safari lodge has an

enviable position right on the Mara

River, over which thousands of

wildebeest cross during the annual

migration. Close to the Masai Mara’s

western boundary, Olonana shares the

economic benefits of upscale tourism

with the local population to encourage

the preservation and protection of

this sensitive and endangered natural

habitat.

The lodge has a workshop where local

artisans demonstrate their traditional

crafts and a small fireplace allows

the local blacksmith to demonstrate

his trade. You can also visit a nearby

Maasai village to see a lifestyle in

complete contrast to your own.

Olonana is a permanent tented camp

with twelve spacious bush pavilions

and comfortable queen-size beds plus

en-suite bathrooms with hot water

shower, shaver plug and hair dryer.

Lamps are made from Maasai gourds

with natural bark cloth shades and

unique floor-to-ceiling walk-through

windows open onto private verandahs

with views across the river to a resident

pod of hippos.

Olonana provides spectacular game

viewing for which the Masai Mara

is famous. Rich in elephant, buffalo,

cheetah, lion, hyena, giraffe and bird

life, the camp offers expert-guided

game drives in custom-built 4x4 Land

Cruisers and the rare opportunity for

night game drives. Walking safaris

are offered for those seeking a more

intimate encounter.

The golden-timbered upper deck

overlooking the river has a shaded

dining and sitting area for sumptuous

dinners and breakfasts, while the lower

deck is ideal for sunning or night-

time stargazing. A portable fireplace

provides welcome warmth on cool

evenings.

L O C A T I O N : on the banks of the

Mara River just outside the western

boundary of the Masai Mara National

Reserve, Kenya.

O L O N A N A

Ma sa i Ma ra

Day & night game dri ves • Game walks • Bird-watching • Maasai cultural visits

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L k V



What a magnificent lake this is: the source of the Nile and the largest body

of fresh water in Africa - and second largest in the world after Lake Superior. It is

bigger than many states in America.

Only 5% of the lake is Kenyan territory; the rest is shared between Uganda

and Tanzania and trade is plied across the water in strange-looking dhows. This

type of boat can be seen on all the waters of East Africa and always gives me an

exotic sense of place.

I S L A N D L I F E

There are just a few small offshore islands, which are normally accessed by

light aircraft from the Masai Mara. The island lodges are tranquil, relaxing places

and a light evening breeze keeps most biting insects away.

The birdlife is staggering with huge nesting colonies of gannets, egrets and

cormorants and a pair of fish eagles patrolling every 100 yards. I have ‘burned’ a lot

of film here attempting to get the perfect picture of a fish eagle catching its prey.

G I A N T N I L E P E R C H W E I G H I N G O V E R 5 0 0 P O U N D S

Many people come here to fish for giant Nile perch, which can weigh in

excess of 100 pounds - the record is an unbelievable 520 pounds! In the evenings

you can cast from the shoreline for much smaller tilapia and have them cooked for

your dinner.

Visiting a local fishing village is a delight and an education, as you see the

night’s catch of tiny silvery Kapenta sardines laid out in the midday sun. The entire

catch must be dried, as there are no refrigerators here to keep it fresh. You will be

a bit of a novelty at the village and children will gather around and stare at your

pale face.

Lake VictoriaL A K E V I C T O R I A

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Be prepared for a bit of game-viewing here - but remember: it’s YOU who are the game!



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Larger than many American states, Lake Victoria is traversed via dhow, used both for shing and for transporting goods between Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda, who share the shores of this great lake.



Arabic traders arrived as far back as the 8th century AD. Many settled and

intermarried with Africans and the melodic Swahili language developed. Evenwhen the Portuguese took over in the 1500’s and brought Catholicism, the forcibly

‘converted’ locals reverted back to Islam when the Sultans of Oman assumed

control in 1698. The Arabs dominated the East African coast, trading in such

things as spices, slaves and ivory, until the British and German colonists decided

they wanted a piece of the action - in fact not just a piece, but the whole shooting

match. Early Kenyan colonial history is full of the tales of these times.

The Kenyan CoastT H E K E N Y A N C O A S T

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An East African safari might end with a bit of R&R at the coast and Kenya

has some stunning beach resorts and islands with a different culture from the restof the country.

Forgive me if I give you a quick history lesson, which is needed to explain

why Kenya’s coast is more Arabic than African. Kenya has such a strategically

placed coastline that everyone wanted some of the trading action between east

and west and Arabia and Africa.

Serena Hotel’s beach, on the Kenyan coast near Mombasa.

W H I T E S A N D SL A M U - S T E P I N T O T H E P A S T



Whitesands is a magnificent beach

resort with a wonderfully long

seafront of soft white sand.

This exotic resort has 340 rooms and,

despite its size, it exudes class and

their 22 acres of delicately manicured

tropical gardens are a tranquil place to

relax after a busy safari.

There are plenty of activities here,with a well-equipped water sports and

diving center, state-of-the-art cyber

café & business area, kids club, gym,

massage, beauty parlor, and tennis

courts. Four huge swimming pools

with waterslides invite exploration

and entertainment is laid on nightly.

The resort has five theme restaurants

and four bars.

LOCATION: north of Mombasa on

Kenya’s tropical coast.

Kenyan Coast

Watersports • Entertainment

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The richest Swahili culture remains on Lamu Island where you truly step

back in time. On arrival at the town jetty a local will eagerly offer his services as

a guide and show you around the fascinating historic town (which takes all of half

an hour).

The dusty streets are incredibly narrow, but intricately carved doors set

in paint-peeling walls lead to spacious interiors. Shady courtyards and cool roof

terraces entice you for an afternoon snooze on an outdoor bed covered in cushions.

There are no cars, so donkeys are the only form of transport (for goods rather than

people), and they often trot up the road on their own, but seem to know exactly

where they are going!

It is easy to forget that some cultures find a pair of pale legs and bare

shoulders offensive - especially when displayed by women - and although Lamu

residents are quite used to scantily clad visitors, it is polite to respect the local dress

codes. That is not to say that you have to cover up completely with only your eyes

showing, as many local women do. Rather, remember that you are the guest of a

very old and traditional culture, so it is important to behave accordingly.

L I F E ’ S A B E A C H

Most beach resorts are found on the Kenyan Mainland and one notable hotel

is named after Ernest Hemmingway, who came here for big game sport fishing.

Hemmingway was heard to say, “I never knew of a morning in Africa when I woke

that I was not happy.” I can second that sentiment.

Further south is Mombasa - Kenya’s second largest city - where chanting

from the Mosque’s minarets proclaim this to be a Muslim district. The coastlineto the north and south of Mombasa is lined with resorts for the simple reason that

these fine white coral sands are some of the best beaches in the word. The only

things to mar them are the persistent ‘beach boys’ trying to sell you something. All

resorts have their own gardens and swimming pools, so you can avoid the hassles of

the beach. This is a real watersports paradise with everything available from scuba

diving, to windsurfing, sailing, water-skiing and jet-skiing.



Ern est Hem ing way

“I never knew of a morning in Africa when I woke that I was not happy.”

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