An “Innovative Key Moisturising Factor” dispersed in a Multi-lamellar arrangement that represents the new basis for Bio-functional Cosmetics PHYSICO-CHEMICAL AND MICROBIOLOGICAL PARAMETERS Appearance at 20°C: Opalescent fluid Colour: Straw yellow Odour: Mild Characteristic pH: 6,5 – 7,5 ( Potenziometric) Dry Residue: 38 - 42% Total Nitrogen: 4,5 – 5,5% Total microbial count: less than 100 CFU/g (Agar count) DOSAGE: 2-20% STORAGE CONDITIONS Store in well closed containers, in a cool, dry place, away from the reach of light and humidity. Kemiderm Microsomic KMF INCI NAME (UE) Aqua, Potassium Lauroyl Wheat Aminoacids , Ethylexyl Palmitate , Phospholipides , Urea , Glucose, Sodium PCA , Sorbitol , Fructose, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Glutamate, Glycine , Lysine , Malic Acid, Citric Acid , Glycolic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide , Potassium Hydroxide. 10 Volunteers were selected, male and female, aged between 18 and 70 years. On the right forearm a cream containing 5% of Kemiderm Microsomic KMF was applied: the same cream, containing only water (placebo), was applied to the left forearm. Measurements (electric capacity) were carried out after 1 hour from the time of application, and at intervals (from time 0 after 1 hour, twice a day from 2 to 7 days). SKIN MOISTURISING EFFICACY TESTS (Skin Diagnostic SD 27) Medium moisturising factor Moisturising increase with and without Kemiderm Microsomic KMF after 1 hour Placebo Kemiderm Microsomic KMF Medium moisturising factor Moisturising increase with and without Kemiderm Microsomic KMF after 1 week Placebo Kemiderm Microsomic KMF KEMIDERM MICROSOMIC KMF The New Generation of Moisturizing Factors Head Office and Production: Via G. Pastore,1 25082 Botticino Sera (BS) ITALIA Tel: +39.030.2693532 Fax: +39.030.2193581 e-mail: [email protected]www.kalichem.it Head Office and Production: Via G. Pastore,1 25082 Botticino Sera (BS) ITALIA Tel: +39.030.2693532 Fax: +39.030.2193581 e-mail: [email protected]www.kalichem.it
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An “Innovative Key Moisturising Factor”
dispersed in a Multi-lamellar arrangement
that represents the new basis for
Bio-functional Cosmetics
PHYSICO-CHEMICAL AND MICROBIOLOGICAL PARAMETERS
Appearance at 20°C: Opalescent fluidColour: Straw yellowOdour: Mild CharacteristicpH: 6,5 – 7,5 ( Potenziometric)Dry Residue: 38 - 42%Total Nitrogen: 4,5 – 5,5%Total microbial count: less than 100 CFU/g (Agar count)
DOSAGE:2-20%
STORAGE CONDITIONSStore in well closed containers, in a cool, dry place, away from the reach of light and humidity.
10 Volunteers were selected, male and female, aged between 18 and 70 years. On the rightforearm a cream containing 5% of Kemiderm Microsomic KMF was applied: the samecream, containing only water (placebo), was applied to the left forearm. Measurements(electric capacity) were carried out after 1 hour from the time of application, and at intervals(from time 0 after 1 hour, twice a day from 2 to 7 days).
Kemiderm Microsomic KMF is an innovative cosmetic structure. It is made of a complexof moisturising factors dispersed in a multi-lamellar arrangement. The biological activity ofthis structure enhances the basic moisturising properties.
KEMIDERM MICROSOMIC KMF: COMPOSITION
Kemiderm Microsomic KMF is produced by means of an innovative technology (HPM-High Pressure Micronisation) based on a mixture of lipids, phospholipids and Kalichem’sKemiderm NMF V (a mixture of sugars, hydroxyl acids, amino-acids, Sodium PCA, etc.),balanced in order to replicate the natural composition of well moisturised skin.All of the components of NMF are of vegetal origin. Phospolipids on the other hand, comefrom Soy.
Kemiderm Microsomic KMF is based
on two key factors: firstly, a vegetal based,
yet thouroughly balanced, NMF.
Secondly, a system of vegetal
phospholipids, lipoaminoacids and
lipids, arranged in a blend of microsomic
and microemulsion structures, composed
of dermo-like substances belonging to
skin physiology. The combination of
these structures makes Kemiderm
Microsomic KMF an ideal vector for
the cutaneous biochemical transport, as
well as supplying the skin with
structuring lipids and water-coordinating
molecules.
Kemiderm Microsomic KMF is a new
generation of moisturising factors. Its
action is not only performed by
supplying the skin with water
coordinating agents, but mainly by
reinforcing and rebalancing water-
organized lipids. This occurs by the
provision of lipid by-layers, the same
physiologic mechanism which is the key
responsibility, in healthy skin layers, of
the homeostasis of moisture balance.
The formulator is therefore provided
with a new tool for the reintegration of
skin lipids, without any greasiness. The
lipid molecules are hidden within the
phospholipids structures, which makes
them readily available for maximum
efficacy.
Nano-liposome: multi-lamellar layerof phospho-lipids enclosing a wateryphase (Kemiderm NMF V)
NMF
The production of nano-liposomes by the cells of the epidermis is a natural process.Liposomes are produced by Golgi-apparatus of the cells which make up the granular layer,they are then expelled, after which they rise to the stratum lucidum which separates the livingcells from the dead cells (horny layer).In the stratum lucidum, liposomes are destroyed by natural enzymes, thus releasing theircontent (fatty acids, lipids , ceramides) and forming the cementing layer, responsible for theregulation of TWEL (trans – epidermal water loss).Through the use of Kemiderm Microsomic KMF it is possible to recreate this mechanismin an opposite manner: it is possible to supply from the outside moisturising ingredients andlipids that are available now in a bio-compatible form.Further to this, these lipids and moisturising ingredients are protected from the action of theenzymes’ flora which may otherwise modify their usefulness.
Kemiderm Microsomic KMF can be used in any formula in which an innovative, completeand highly efficient moisturising functional ingredient is required.Kemiderm Microsomic KMF is able to provide the skin with both the required moisturisingingredients (of vegetal origin and naturally balanced), as well as with the lipids necessary forreinforcing and rebalancing the lipid layer – therefore playing an important role in themaintenance of well moisturised skin.In addition to this, Kemiderm Microsomic KMF is able to supply lipids in a non-greasy,bio-compatible form, thereby allowing the formulation of a finished product with a light,dry, texture.Kemiderm Microsomic KMF is recommended for use in all instances in which an improvementof the natural moisture level of the skin is required, as well as when the maintenance of theskin’s natural hydration is required in order to prepare the skin for acceptance of otherfunctional ingredients.Kemiderm Microsomic KMF is recommended for use in creams, body lotions, body milksand serums, as well as in foundation creams, in which it is most advantageous in its abilityto block excessive dehydration of the skin (often caused by the pigments within foundationformulae).
KEMIDERM MICROSOMIC KMF: ACTIVITY
KEMIDERM MICROSOMIC KMF: APPLICATIONS
Since an excess of phospholipids is employed with respect tothe quantity of lipids utilised, we are able to obtain at the sametime a nano-emulsion and a nano-liposome solution.
Granularlayer
Stratumlucidum
Horny
Basallayer
Epidermis
Dermis
Adipose tissue
Muscle
Hairfollicle
Sweatgland
Head Office and Production:Via G. Pastore,1
25082 Botticino Sera (BS) ITALIATel: +39.030.2693532Fax: +39.030.2193581