KASHMIR: come trekking in paradise with daily yoga- as close to Nirvana as you might reach.

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This programme has been inspired by five visits to Kashmir in the last two years in which we have been captivated by the mesmerising beauty of this legendary land, and the special allure and mystique of her people, a reminder of the piety and gentleness of a country which has more Sufi shrines than almost anywhere else in the Muslim world. The sense of wonderment, purity and timelessness of these magical mountains touches the heart and soul of all those who venture here still, and through which over the millennia, a galaxy of saints, mystics, seers, savants, ascetics have left an enduring philosophy of humane universality and rich spiritual traditions that transcend all differences. Kashmir has been romanticised by everyone from the 16th-century Mogul emperor Jahangir (who, when asked on his deathbed if he wanted anything, whispered "Kashmir, only Kashmir") to Salman Rushdie (who spoke of "the lush valleys, the lakes, the streams, the saffron meadows – the intense physical beauty and culture of enormous harmony") and Led Zepellin ("Ooh my baby, let me take you there"). Most Kashmiris live an agrarian and simple life. Srinagar with its growing semblance of mod cons is hardly the norm. Overall the people are extremely gracious, generous, unfailingly hospitable and sweet. The last decades of strife have brought much grief, pain and suffering, yet they embrace visitors as friends and begin to dream of a new golden era, independence and sovereign control over their own resources.

This tour is an exuberant and rewarding journey that will nourish heart, mind, body, soul and all the senses…. It has been designed for confident walkers and adventurers wishing to escape all vestiges of congestion, tourism, modern stress and seeking an immersion in all the joys of being at one with nature: the sounds of bubbling brooks and raging streams, the rustle of breezes as you pass through magnificent deodar, pine and birch forests; the springy feel of thick green carpets of vast meadows under your feet, delight at discovering wild flowers and minute blossoms peeking under rocks, majestic eagles soaring the thermals above, and sleeping under a canopy of stars; the heartfelt interaction with the semi-nomadic Gujjar and Bakarwal tribes who pass by in endless, dreamy, decorated-pony caravans leading their livestock to higher pastures or inviting you into their slab-hut sod-roofed dwellings to share chai, buffalo curds and freshly made bread or play cricket with their kids.

Trekking in Paradise: the Trekking in Paradise: the

mystical mountains of Kashmir

30 May – 11 June 2015

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Highlights include: - An exceptional trek/camping team. The Sheik family has been guiding people through their mountains since 1952. One could not feel more cosseted or safe in their midst. They have brilliant mountain skills that enable them to build a bridge over a river, run like gazelles over rocks, command ponies to follow without being led, swiftly halal-slaughter a chook for the cooking pot, set up a wonderfully appointed camp in record time, lend a helping hand and watchful eye as you navigate a tricky terrain, prepare scrumptious delicious meals with the simplest gear, or even sing to you from their hearts, songs of love and yearning and hope. Never before in life have we experienced a kinder, gentler, more capable, caring and respectful group of men. - Comfortable Camping: Sites always by running water. Spacious new tents are equipped with thermarest mattresses, down bags, hot water bottles, comfortable pillows. Mornings and evenings there is plentiful hot water delivered via an ingenious portable ‘bukhari’ heater. Campfires are lit in the evenings. An abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables and delicious, nourishing cuisine each day accompanied by ginger infusions and saffron scented kahwa tea. Unlimited access to pure drinking water derived from mountain springs. All you carry is your daypack and if you feel weary or sore, you can mount a sure-footed pony. - Yoga opportunity each morning. Before the day starts you can join Marieke’s yoga session to stretch and breath the purest air imaginable into bliss and mindfulness surrounded by snow-clad peaks.

TOUR OVERVIEW Day One Delhi Guests meet in Delhi Saturday 30 May. For guests arriving into Delhi today or this evening, you will be met at the airport and transferred to the lovely Oberoi Trident Hotel a mere 10 minutes from the airport, offering an oasis of tranquility, with lovely rooms, pool, spa and facilities shared with the Oberoi next door. The hotel also has several restaurants with pleasing dining options (that will be at your own expense). Alternatively, guests may choose to arrive into Delhi no later than 8.00am on Sunday morning 31 May, in time to join the group’s flight departure to Srinagar. Days Two, Three + Four Delhi/Srinagar Guests may also elect to arrive into Delhi early this morning in which case if there is sufficient time, you will be transferred from the airport to the Trident for a shower and change and breakfast before the flight to Srinagar or we’ll meet you at the airport. Guests already in Delhi can enjoy a leisurely breakfast before proceeding to the airport for the flight to Kashmir. On arrival in Srinagar, proceed to Houseboats for lunch and check in.

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The prelude to this trek starts in the legendary Kashmir Valley, “Jahangir’s Paradise”, where you are based in Srinagar the first 3 nights in the loveliest houseboat on Dal Lake where there are a myriad attractions: placid mountain-backed Dal Lake with its slumbering houseboats, famous Mughal gardens, the historic wooden mosques of the old town and a remarkable wealth of home-grown handicrafts, including exquisite Papier-mâché and hand-loomed pashminas. Ironically, years of insecurity and underdevelopment served more or less as a sort of nature conservancy scheme, leaving the place in reasonably good shape and largely unspoiled, melting glaciers aside. The new peacefulness though is proving appealing to Indian domestic tourists and bringing with it a transformative building boom and new wealth. None the less, Srinagar stands as testament to much of its former glory with water the abiding feature: the water of its lakes, the springs of its Mughal gardens, the rush of its mountain streams and the lushness of its rice terraces, market gardens, apricot and peach trees and valleys. Being Springtime, there are lavish displays of blossom, lush mustard fields with snow capped peaks in the distance. Highlights include: the floating markets, some stunning mosques and Sufi shrines, interaction with master craftsmen, wonderful cuisine, entrée to a family home to share a wonderful meal, and shikara rides on Dal lake, as well as the first three nights on a traditional houseboat made new. For our guests we have reserved the most exclusive houseboat on Dal Lake: a traditional boat that has revived its glorious hand carved cedar interiors with modern bedrooms, luxurious bathrooms, enhanced by excellent service and cuisine, a vast sun terrace and outdoor dining room with views to the snow dappled mountains, shimmering lake and the daily passing parade of small boats. It also boasts a bio plant and water recycle system. Days Five to Eleven Srinagar/Aru/Trek The drive to Aru should take no longer than 3 hours. On arrival you will be served lunch and meet the wonderful Sheik family who are guiding the trek and can admire the efficiency with which a battalion of sturdy, well-cared for mountain ponies are packed, not only with your bags, but the entire camp necessities. INDICATIVE WALK There is always a slightly “organic approach to trekking, depending on the weather, local conditions, the groups stamina. We anticipate days of 3-7 hours walking (max about 15km) with breaks to enjoy the scenery, fill drink bottles from natural springs, interact with the locals, each step being present in the journey and ponies if you feel weary at some stretches. Camps will be 2 night stays with the option for days to “kick back” or take up the challenge of exhilarating side treks.

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Walk One This afternoon the first acclimatising walk of about 3 hours takes us to Gagadpathri at an elevation of 2750m. The start of the walk ascends as a slow steady climb through light forest before becoming more undulating rocky terrain. You are surrounded by the grand Katrinag Mountains as a backdrop, with sweet pure air filling your lungs. You will also encounter your first Gujjar communities and reach camp well before sunset.

Walk Two Allowing guests to absorb the majestic scenery, this morning is a leisurely start after yoga and a hearty breakfast. Today we trek to Arampathri at an elevation of 3100m. This is a vast verdant lush meadow bordered by a calm icy stream and soaring peaks that gives you the feeling you are the only people on earth having found an unearthly paradise. River crossings might be on ponies and expect lots of smaller stream-crossings across logs. We also stop on the way to appreciate the natural beauty and interact with the many Gujjar folk you’ll encounter on the way.

Walk Three Today allows for an optional 6 -hour day walk to reach Harbagwan Lake at an elevation of 4100-4500m. A small trail rises through rocky terrain to reach a stunning meadow profuse with wildflowers. The walk is then a steady ascent with the possibility of snow and bigger steeper boulders to negotiate. Very strong confident walkers may choose to rise to the top as it is challenging. You may also choose to go half way and return to camp with your guide. It is also your choice if you wish to just linger at camp to read, relax and meander.

Walk Four Today is a long and exhilarating descending walk of 15km, partly down narrow rocky tracks and the rest through soaring deodar forests. You halt at a large Gujjar settlement, Gheerawad village where your hostess will prepare fresh flat bread cooked in her wood fired earthen stove. Late afternoon arrive at Kotpathri, (@ 2500m) a lovely sloping meadow intersected by streams, with belts of forest all around and snow capped peaks on the horizon. Walk Five Today’s walk is long (17km) but over moderate and very scenic terrain to arrive in the Lidder valley and the confluence of 2 rivers camping at 2750m. Enjoy the serene landscape of lush meadows alongside the gushing River Lidder and forest-covered slopes that overlook the snow-capped mountains. The Lidder River is one of the biggest tributaries of River Jhelum that originates from the Kolahoi Glacier and joins with the Kolahoi and Sheshnag Streams in Pahalgam. Along the way stop to take in the breathtaking scenery and enjoy lunch.

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Walk Six Today’s walk is only 8km and the track meanders closely to the beautiful river with birch trees with a gentle ascent to reach Satlanjan at 3200m where you camp 2 nights in a more lunar-like landscape of barren rock face, scree falls, and roaring stream. Nearby is the largest Gujjar village in the Lidder valley whose kids welcome a game of cricket and whose parents are so happy to exchange food. You are camped here 2 nights. Walk Seven Today’s optional day walk of 12km is to the Kolahai Glacier at 4100m, otherwise you may choose to chill at camp. Day Eleven Trek/Pahalagam A leisurely start to the day and a moderate walk to a different camp spot in the Lidder valley. This final walk is 3 hours downhill and returns you to the starting point of the delightful village of Aru that sits in the middle of a biosphere and is surrounded by agricultural experimental plots. Lunch and farewells to an exceptional trek team. (If the guests’ enthusiasm is still high we will camp for the last night or take up the comforts of the hotel in Pahalagam), a gentle step back into the built environment, warm baths, comfortable beds, airy rooms with views to the river and just far way from the bustle of the this little town.

Day Twelve Trek/Pahalagam Explore the bustling village and market town of Pahalagam, visit some of its shrines and mosques, enjoy a delicious lunch of river trout, shop for spices, dried fruits and local knickknacks. Farewell dinner at the hotel. Days Thirteen Pahalagam/Srinagar/Delhi Thursday 11 June After an early breakfast guests are returned to the house of very dear friends in Srinagar for a sublime home-cooked elegant lunch. No doubt, you might even be shown some exquisite hand woven and embroidered pashminas that tempt you as a memento of a magical land. Later in the afternoon transfer to the airport for the flight back to Delhi, reaching around 6 in the evening in plenty of time for connecting international departures. Marieke’s Art of Living Delhi staff will be on hand to assist with transfers to the international terminal, or onward travel arrangements in India. END OF TOUR ! This tour remains with Marieke’s Art of Living. We reserve the right at any stage to vary the itinerary at any time, in the best interests of our clients. Extend you stay in Delhi Marieke’s dear friend Robyn Bickford is the inimitable and effervescent GM at the Lodhi (formerly the New Delhi Aman). For guests wishing to extend their stay a night or 2 in Delhi we can offer super summer rates at this glorious property where each suite has its own plunge pool. If enough members from the trek wish to stay on, Marieke will design a special program taking in some of hidden aspects of Delhi. INDIA Please notify us if you wish to visit other parts of India before or after the Tour. We can plan all your arrangements and suggest individual itineraries. We can also provide Ladakh and Leh extensions via road from Srinagar or by air from Delhi on private arrangements.

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What recent guests have said:

It was a trip like no other. The opportunity to stay close to the local Gujjar people and experience their environment as they have lived for perhaps hundreds of years. Little or no technology with magnificent, pristine, wilderness landscapes makes for that rare connection with a way of life we have long left behind. To me this is what made this trek around Aru in Kashmir so amazing and enlightening. On returning home my memories of the mountains and all I experienced have flooded my dreams. Quiet reflection on the daily life we were privileged to be immersed in has heightened my appreciation of this very special tour. Johnny our guide was so passionate and dedicated to the beauty and cultural heritage of Kashmir, he could not help but leave us with a new found love for his people and his land. Of course the food was delicious, the company excellent and your co-ordination and support exemplary. Thank you for it all Marieke - a challenging holiday with meaning, warmth, companionship and immense educational value. It will live on in my memory for all the years to come. With lots of love, Jo C (Perth June 2014

marieke’s Art of Living p/l

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e: [email protected] Web: www.mariekesartofliving.com

THE TEAM

Marieke Brugman has researched, designed, refined, escorted and lead cultural, yoga and gastronomic Tours to many regions of the sub-continent over the last twenty years and has developed a lifelong attraction to the exotic and compelling experience that ignites all the senses with the spiritual traditions, sights, sounds, tastes, smells, festivals, music, bazaars like no other on earth. Indeed, it makes you think about the meaning of life, in ways that you don't, living in the west. When at home, Marieke walks by the ocean, tends an organic vegetable garden, practices yoga, cooks well + plans more journeys.

Already smitten and beguiled by recent visits to Kashmir (a lifelong dream), the recent treks she undertook with a private group of friends held subtle personal challenges: “could I carry a pack?..how would it be at those altitudes?...” Two simple truths emerged: “How much I had neglected and missed being in nature, a habit formed living so long in the High Country of NE Victoria for decades” and Thich Nhat Hanh’s profoundly simple lessons in mindfulness “so each and every step over 8 days indeed became a walking mantra/meditation in mindfulness, connectedness and deepest appreciation of Gaia.” As the master monk has said: “every step brings us back to the present moment, so that we can touch the wonders of life that are available. Therefore, when I say, "I have arrived," I mean I have arrived in the here and the now -- the only place, the only time where and when life is available, and that is my true home.” “You don’t have to make any effort during walking meditation, because it is enjoyable. You are there, body and mind together. You are fully alive, fully present in the here and the now. With every step, you touch the wonders of life that are in you and around you. When you walk like that, every step brings healing. Every step brings peace and joy, because every step is a miracle.”

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Ghulam Sheik is the eldest in a family of 8 children whose father started to lead treks in these mountains in 1952. A devout father and husband and elected Councilor in Aru, his heart and home is in the mountains where his innumerable capabilities shine. Soft, wise, generous, humorous, he can at a moment’s notice rustle up a fantastic meal, whittle a perfect walking stick from a birch branch, mend an injured horse, construct a bridge to cross a stream, walk slowly, steadily, quietly all day or simply sit in stillness or engage in meaningful philosophical conversation and connect you to the Kashmiri soul.

Two of his sons and some of his most trusted friends form his chosen team of helpers. A gem! Muzafarjohn (aka Johnny). 2IC to Ghulam in whose family he has been raised since he was a little boy, Johnny has a foot in two camps, the mystical mountains and the modern internet world. This long lean streak of a young man exudes boundless enthusiasm, tremendous bush craft, great care of his guests, impressive energy in the walks and an infectious sense of fun.

Q+A Group size needs to be a minimum of 6 and will be restricted to 10/12 guests max. Participants do not require exceptional fitness, rather confident walking skills and a sense of wonderment in nature. There is no heavy schlepping. The crew and their trustworthy ponies carry your bags and all the camping gear. All you need to carry is a daypack with essentials like rain gear, a warm layer, water etc. Telecommunications: Phones issued outside Kashmir are blocked from making or receiving calls and text messages. There is a slow internet connection the first 3 days in Srinagar. Climate: It has been the case that we have invariably enjoyed warmish days often with bright sunshine, occasional showers, cool/coldish nights. Being the mountains guests are encouraged to be prepared for all contingencies and a detailed pack list is sent on booking What are the risks? from time to time the news reports on-going local incidents in Kashmir. These are not targeted at tourists. From personal experience over the last 5 visits, the country and its people were extremely peaceful and welcoming at no point did any of my guests experience a moment of insecurity Altitude sickness. (About 20 per cent of people experience mild symptoms at altitudes between 2200 and 2500 metres above sea level. Many ski resorts are found at these altitudes. The incidence of altitude sickness, which varies from one individual to another, is directly related to the rate of ascent. It's also significantly related to how long a person stays at that height. The risk of + susceptibility to getting altitude sickness in areas, such as Nepal and the Andes mountains, where tourist regions can be as high as 3000 to 4000

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metres is very real). From personal experience with the female group in June ’13 who ranged from 35 -61 and the mixed June ’14 group who ranged in age from 30-72 everyone remained in extremely good health. Ascents were slow. However as a matter of protocol, if anyone in the party begins to display symptoms, the entire group would descend to an altitude where that person could recover. (as part of our travel notes, we provide a range of suggested natural remedies). You are in the mountains 8 days and there are no immediate medical services, nor helicopter airlifts for an extreme injury. In case of an accident you might be 3-4 hours from the nearest medical services and would be carried out on a pony by a team from the crew. Guests joining this fabulous adventure will be asked to sign a form that recognizes they are trekking knowing the possible risks. ! This tour remains with Marieke’s Art of Living. We reserve the right at any stage to vary the itinerary at any time, in the best interests of our clients. Marieke Brugman of marieke’s Art of Living will host this tour. Departure of this Tour Program is entirely dependent on a minimum of 5 and a maximum of 10/12 Participants. A final decision will be taken by 15 March and if the Tour is cancelled, a full refund of all deposits will be issued. However, we do not reimburse any travel expenses already incurred. Evidence of Comprehensive Travel Insurance is a mandatory condition for joining the Tour. This will be an ideal time to visit Kashmir with warmish Spring days and cool nights.

BOOKING Necessities: To confirm the booking please complete the following booking sheet for all passengers, accompanied by the required deposit or credit card guarantee. Confirmation of Booking: On confirmation of booking, detailed travel and medical notes will be forwarded, as well as a bibliography and time line history. Visa and medical requirements: Allow at least 6 weeks before departure to seek and implement any medical advice with your own physician. Comprehensive travel insurance is mandatory for joining this tour. Also allow at least 2 weeks to obtain the Mandatory Indian Visa. India Passport & Visa Services Centre is now managed by VFS Services Australia Pty Ltd. The decision to grant or refuse a visa is made solely by the officers at the High Commission of India/ Consulate General of India. Staff members of VFS Services Australia Pty Ltd, have no role or influence over the outcome of an application. Any applicant submitting false documentation or other incorrect information in support of their application may be referred to the local authorities. Detailed Information AND Forms can be downloaded from their website web site at http://www.vfsglobal.com/india/australia/

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KASHMIR GALLERY

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GENERAL NOTES

Srinagar was founded more than 2000 years ago, around the 3rd century BC, by King Pravarasena. It soon became part of the Mauryan Empire, under the emperor at the time, Ashoka, a Hindu by birth and Buddhist by persuasion, who introduced Buddhism to the Kashmir Valley.

By the 1st century AD, control of the region shifted to the Kushan dynasty, who went on to strengthen the roots and traditions of Buddhism in their kingdom. But in the 6th century, the city fell to the Huns. Still, Hindu and Buddhist rule of the city of Srinagar continued well into the early 14th century, when the city and surrounding area were subjugated by Muslim rulers, notably Akbar, who was the first to establish Mughal rule in Srinagar and introduce Islam.

With the disintegration of the Mughal Empire in the wake of the death of Aurangzeb in 1707, control of Srinagar passed into the hands of the Durranis, who ruled the Kashmir Valley for next several decades until in 1814, Maharaja Ranjit Singh, a Sikh ruler, annexed Srinagar and a large part of the valley into his kingdom. Ranjit Singh's domination continued for more than three decades, ending with the Treaty of Lahore, signed between the British and Sikh rulers, which enabled the British to install Maharaja Gulab Singh as the sole sovereign of the Kashmir Valley. Gulab Singh, for his part, promptly annexed the city and region, making them part of his kingdom which was one of a handful of "princely states" in British India.

In 1947, with the advent of Indian independence and the subsequent partitioning of India into India and Pakistan, Pakistan-instigated Pashtun tribes infiltrated into the area, followed by the Pakistani armed forces who seized much of the Kashmir Valley and a major part of Srinagar, save for the Srinagar airport. The ruler of Kashmir at the time, Maharaja Hari Singh, a descendant of Gulab Singh, sensing the imminent loss of his kingdom to the Pakistanis, enjoined India by signing a covenant with the Indian Government that ensured integration of his kingdom into the Indian republic. India, for its part, fulfilled its obligation by immediately airlifting Indian troops into Srinagar and wresting control of Srinagar and much of the Kashmir Valley from the Pakistanis. Thus began the Indo-Pak War of 1947. However, with the escalation of the matter to the United Nations by Pakistan, and the immediate imposition of a cease fire by the U.N., certain parts of Kashmir slipped into the hands of Pakistan and now constitute what is dubbed as "Azad Kashmir," meaning "independent Kashmir," while the rest of Kashmir remains an integral part of India. Kashmir has a rich spiritual heritage of all faiths and has been a land of Sanskrit scholars, Seers, Saints, Savants and Sages- some belonged to the Buddhist faith, some advocated Shaiva philosophy, some were Sufis and some were saint-poets or nuns. Today the state itself is made up of three distinctive regions with different religious and ethnic compositions: Jammu is about 65 percent Hindu, mainly ethnic Dogras; Ladakh being about 50 percent Tibetan Buddhist with significant Muslim communities and the Kashmir Valley about 90 percent Kashmiri Muslim (mostly of the gentle mystical form). Shrines, relics, temples and mosques are widely venerated. Some Kashmir researchers are of the opinion that many inhabitants of Kashmir are descendants of the Lost Tribes who were exiled in 722 BCE and wandered along the Silk Road into the countries of the East, Persia and Afghanistan until they reached the Kashmir valley and settled there. Others believe Christ is buried at Rozabal. Ancient and Modern Ascetics in Kashmir - An Introduction by Sh. G. N. Raina “The history of India has for its landmarks not wars and emperors but saints and scriptures.”- Dr. S. Radhakrishanan Nations have a history as well as geography. They grow not by the sun and stars, the wind and rain but by the creative Spirits who by precept and practice, work toward the establishment of universal brotherhood of man, overcoming the artificial barriers of caste, creed or colour.

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In the last millennium, Kashmir, as the rest of India, has produced a galaxy of great saints, seers and savants who have enriched, elevated and refined life and helped the people at large in distress. In India, we have had illustrious God-men like Kabir, Tulsi, Surdas, Sri Ramakrishna Paramahansa, Vivekananda, Swami Ram, Shri Sai Baba of Shirdi, Ramana Maharishi, Sri Satya Sai Baba, and Sri Aurobindo. In Kashmir, too, we have had the great fortune of producing great saints like Lalleshwari, Rupa Bhawani, Sheikh Nuruddin, Parmanand, Rishipir, Jeewan Shah, Lassa Sahib, Anandji, Ramji, Sahib Kaul, Manas Razdan, Zaikak, Kakaji Mastana, Grata Bab, Ramjoo Tabardar, Vidya Dar, Shankar Razdan, Bhagwaan Gopinath Ji, Kashkak, Sona Kak, Nandlal Ji, Swami Lakshman Joo, Sati Devi and Mathura Devi.

These saints belong to all times and to all nations. They transcend the bonds of communities and conventions, place and time. They are born to serve God by serving His creatures. A saint, a seer and a sage is, indeed a universal phenomenon. In the present troubled times when the people of the Valley, Kashmiri Pandits in particular, are passing through untold miseries, the only solace comes from our glorious philosophic and spiritual traditions enriched by our saints and sufis. The sayings of Lalla Arifa echo and re- echo to this day. She sang in the language of the masses. A mystic of the purest ray serene, Lalla urged the people to rise above caste, creed and colour and see the light within.

"SHIV CHHUY THALI THALI ROZAN, MO ZAAN HYUND TA MUSALMAN, TRUK AY CHHAUK TA PAN PANUN PARZANAV, SOI CHHAY SAHIBAS SATI ZANI ZAN" (Siva is all-pervading and present in each particle. Never differentiate between a Hindu and a Muslim. If you are shrewd and intelligent, know THY SELF. There lies acquaintance with god".) Long after her, Parmanand gave us a recipe for attaining peace of mind. "SANTOSHI BYALI BHAVI ANAND PHAL" (Contentment leads to perennial joy and bliss.) Kashmir also enjoys high levels of artistic practice in the hand made production of carpets, shawls, wood and metal craft. Note about Kashmiri CUISINE Food in Kashmir is delicious. Lamb and chicken tend to predominate but many creations derive from lotus root, eggplant, greens and cottage cheese. Kewha the saffron spiced tea is refreshing and ubiquitously served as a sign of welcome. The history of modern Kashmiri cuisine can be traced back to the fifteenth century invasion of India by Timur, and the migration of 1700 skilled woodcarvers, weavers, architects, calligraphers and cooks from Samarkand to the valley of Kashmir. The descendants of these cooks, the Wazas, are the master chefs of Kashmir. The ultimate formal banquet in Kashmir is the royal Wazwan. Of its thirty-six courses, between fifteen and thirty can be preparations of meat, cooked overnight by the master chef, Vasta Waza, and his retinue of wazas. Guests are seated in groups of four and share the meal out of a large metal plate called the trami. The meal begins with a ritual washing of hands at a basin called the tash-t-nari, which is taken around by attendants. Then the tramis arrive, heaped with rice, quartered by four seekh kababs and contains four pieces of methi korma, one tabak maaz, one safed murg, one zafrani murg, and the first few courses. Curd and chutney are served seperately in small earthen pots. As each trami is completed, it is removed, and a new one brought in, until the dinner has run its course. Seven dishes are a must for these occassions-- Rista, Rogan Josh, Tabak Maaz, Daniwal Korma, Aab Gosht, Marchwangan Korma and Gushtaba. The meal ends with the Gushtaba. Some typical Kashmiri dishes are- • Chaman qaliya (cottage-cheese squares in gravy)+ Dum Oluv (potatoes cooked in yogurt gravy) • Nadir Yakhn (lotus stem in a delicate yogurt sauce) • Hak(with nadir/vangan) (a local variety of greens)

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• Nadir Palak (lotus stem with spinach) + Mujh Chetin (a sharp radish and walnut chutney) • Rista (meatballs in a fiery red gravy) + Rogan Josh (tender lamb cooked with kashmiri spices) • Tabak Maaz (ribs of lamb simmered in yogurt till tender, then fried, can be served as a snack/side-dish) • Daniwal Korma (a mutton curry with lots of coriander) • Aab Gosht (spicy lamb curry) + Kabab (minced meat roasted on skewers over hot coals) • Marchwangan Korma (an extremely hot lamb preparation) • Gushtaba (a velvety textured meatball in white yogurt gravy,a speciality) • Yakhni (delicately spiced yogurt curry) + Phirni (a dessert of rice flour thickened in milk set in earthenware cups with nuts and "varq"-silver leaf) Recommended Reading: Available from longitudebooks.com KASHMIR Hindu Rulers, Muslim Subjects: Islam, Rights, and the History of Kashmir by Mridu Rai HISTORY Kashmir from the 1846 Treaty of Amritsar, which created the princely states of Kashmir and Jammu, until the forced accession of Kashmir to to India in 1947. Vale of Kashmir by John Isaac CULTURAL PORTRAIT. Brilliant, from the renowned UN photographer, New York resident but South Indian-born. 2008 Isaac first traveled to Kashmir in 2003 to photograph the saffron harvest, and fell in love with the people and landscapes of Kashmir, displayed here in 160 breathtaking color images. The Tiger Ladies, A Memoir of Kashmir by Sudha Koul TRAVEL NARRATIVE 2002 Kashmir and ongoing struggles. Koul interweaves the story of her family -- and especially of its women -- with tales of gods and goddesses, myths and cultural history, paying plenty of attention

War at the Top of the World, The Struggle for Afghanistan, Kashmir, and Tibet by Eric Margolis HISTORY 2002 Margolis, a veteran correspondent in the region, presents a detailed overview of the ongoing struggle over the high Himalayas, showing their strategic importance to Pakistan, India and China. Updated throughout Conflict Unending by Sumit Ganguly HISTORY 2002 • An in-depth study of the turbulent relationship between India and Pakistan since independence in 1947, with a focus on Kashmir. Wonders of The Himalayas by Francis E. Younghusband EXPLORATION 1993 Pass; Through Kashmir; Raiders and Russians; Meeting the Kirghiz; Search for the Saltoro Pass; Rest and Reflection; The Raiders Stronghold; Meeting the Russians; Hunza; and The Secret of the Himalaya.

Modern South Asia: History, Culture, Political Economy by Ayesha Jalal | Sugata Bose HISTORY 2004 A cogent, brief history of India from earliest times to the 1990s. Co-authored by a Pakistani and an Indian (professors of history at Tufts and at Harvard, respectively) the

Forbidden Journey by Ella Maillart TRAVEL NARRATIVE 2003 account of Maillart's journey from Peking across the Taklamaken through Xinjiang to Kashmir in the company of Peter Fleming (who wrote his own account of the journey, News from Tartary). Shalimar the Clown by Salman Rushdie LITERATURE 2006 allusions, ideas, characters and commentary. As told through the life of Shalimar, it concerns, among other things, the fate of Kashmir, Hindu and Muslim animosity, adultery

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and contemporary Los Angeles. Available from amazon.com The Kashmir Shawl: A Novel by Rosie Thomas (Jan 10, 2013) Kashmir: The Case for Freedom by Arundhati Roy, Pankaj Mishra, Hilal Bhatt and Angana P. Chatterji (Oct 24, 2011) Kashmir Shaivism: The Secret Supreme by John Hughes (Oct 22, 2007) Kashmir in Conflict: India, Pakistan and the Unending War by Victoria Schofield (May 15, 2010)

Kashmir: Roots of Conflict, Paths to Peace by Sumantra Bose (Sep 30, 2005) Lonely Planet Jammu & Kashmir: Chapter from India Travel Guide (Country Travel Guide) by Lonely Planet (Apr 1, 2012) Consciousness Is Everything: The Yoga of Kashmir Shaivism by Swami Shankarananda (Jul 19, 2012) Jesus in Kashmir: The Lost Tomb by Suzanne Olsson (Oct 14, 2005)

The Doctrine of Vibration: An Analysis of the Doctrines and Practices of Kashmir Shaivism (The Suny Series in... by Mark S. G. Dyczkowski (Jul 1, 1987) Kashmir Saivism: The Central Philosophy of Tantrism (New fully revised and enlarged edition) by Kamalakar Mishra (Nov 30, 2011) Shine in Kashmir by D. Chris Castagna (Oct 10, 2010) Self Realization in Kashmir Shaivism : The Oral Teachings of Swami Lakshmanjoo by John Hughes (Dec 15, 1994) In the Valley of Mist: Kashmir: One Family In A Changing World by Justine Hardy (Jun 9, 2009) Journey into Kashmir and Tibet by Swami Abhedananda (May 1, 1987) Death in Kashmir: A Mystery by M. M. Kaye (Dec 5, 2000) Kashmir Shaivism: The Secret Supreme by Swami Lakshman Jee (Sep 22, 1988)

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BOOKING REQUIREMENTS:

To confirm the booking please complete the following booking sheet for all passengers, accompanied by the required deposit. TOUR COSTS Tour Arriving into Delhi 30 May and returning to Delhi 11 June USD 4750 per person based on twin/double share Single Supplement (@ houseboat (3 nights) and Pahalagam Hotel (2 nights) USD 590 (@ Trident Delhi on arrival) USD 115 PLUS Domestic Airfares (Dynamic Airfare): in economy class Delhi / Srinagar + Srinagar / Delhi: approx USD 350 per person return Extension @ Luxury Suites @ the Lodhi New Delhi USD $350 per room per night inclusive of airport transfers, daily breakfast and taxes: Dynamic fares: These fares are a non static advance purchase fare which keeps changing on daily basis as they depend upon demand and supply ratio. Any increase will be additional to the above cost Land Arrangement Inclusions: Note: Cost includes all meals from Breakfast on 31 May until Lunch on 11 June Accommodation on a twin-share/Single basis as per hotels mentioned in the itinerary Delhi: Trident Hotel by Oberoi Gurgaon ( 1 night): Superior Garden view Room Srinagar: Sukoon AC House Boat (3 nights) Pahalagam (Pahalagam Hotel or Pine n Peak Hotel- 2 nights) Tents: on a single or double basis Representative for assistance on all arrival and departure transfers including additional paperwork on arrival and departure @ Srinagar airport Service of English speaking guide, local representatives + Full time escort in Srinagar Transportation by AC Tempo Traveller for 6 – 8 Pax Entrance to monuments Dinner with Local family in Srinagar Shikara boat Ride on Dal Lake, Srinagar Mineral water All presently applicable taxes Exclusions Travel insurance. Any Air fare Mentioned separately Telephone calls, faxes and all forms of communication. Airport departure taxes holiday destination/s Items of personal nature such as Alcoholic/ Non Alcoholic drinks, laundry, sundries etc Any optional activities / excursions or extras other than those specified. Single room or sole occupancy costs supplements Personal service tips and gratuities Tip for Trek Team Confirmation of Booking: On confirmation of booking, detailed travel and medical notes will be forwarded. At the end is a recommended reading list.

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DEPOSIT: $1500 per person, payable NOW (see special note on Credit Card Guarantee) BALANCE OF PAYMENT DUE: 30 March

PAYMENT Preferred payment is by Telegraphic Bank Transfer (TT). All major credit cards are accepted but cards attract a commission and are subject to prevailing exchange rates. For Tours to be paid in United States Dollars. Please arrange with your bank to provide a direct telegraphic transfer into the following account. Please also ensure that you also cover any additional fees your bank may charge to send or for me to receive, including intermediary bank fees which are often hidden in the documentation or overlooked. Please do NOT have your bank issue a foreign currency cheque as these can take up to 8 weeks to clear. In recognition that this is a slightly cumbersome process, we are also happy to negotiate a credit card guarantee for the deposit. The credit card is then only activated in accordance with the strict terms and conditions of the policy outlined below, that is, if you cancel within the specified time frames after initially having placed your booking. This would be charged in AUD at the prevailing USD exchange rate at the time. With this option, clients need only effect one TT at the time full payment is due, thereby attracting only one set of fees. USD Payment To: MARIEKE'S ART OF LIVING PTY LTD C/- Citibank Pty. Limited Ground Floor, 235 Little Bourke St., Melbourne, VIC 3000 International Swift No: CITIAU2X BSB #: 243300 (Relationship) Account #: 9018524945 If paying in Australian dollars, the deposit is mandatory to secure the booking. The final value will be adjusted against the prevailing USD exchange rate at the time the final monies are due. AUD Payment To: C/- ANZ Bank 29 Mahoneys Road, Forest Hills 3131 International Swift Code: ANZBAU3M BSB#: 013328 Account # 480470182 By Credit card, (that will be charged in Australian dollars according to the prevailing exchange rate) in which case approximately 1.5%-4% service fee is added (Depending on choice of card). For security purposes, kindly fax or phone through your credit card details

CURRENCY FLUCTUATION

The above prices are subject to unavoidable fluctuations. Whilst we do our utmost to honour published prices, you will be notified of any necessary and unavoidable increases caused by

fuel prices, Government taxes, or a decrease in the optimum group size.

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BOOKING FORM Himalayan Kashmir Trek 2015

To book, please fill in this form for ALL PASSENGERS and return to: marieke’s Art of Living p/l, PO Box 389 Blairgowrie VIC 3942 M: +61 (0) 419580381 T/F: 61 3 59852009 Email: [email protected] W: www.mariekesartofliving.com Travel License # 32766 abn 48123949048 iata# 96-8 2997

Name/s (as per your passport): Address: postcode: Telephone: (W) (H) Fax: Mobile: Email: (preferred communication with you) I am Booking with: Nationality/s:"""""""""""" Passport No:"""""" Issued At:""""""""" Date of Issue:"""""""""Expiry Date:"""""""" D of Birth:"""""""" PLEASE NOTE: From the date of travel, your passport must have a minimum of 6 months validity. A 6 Months Visitors Visa is mandatory and a month should be allowed to process it through your travel agent or online with VFS. YES, I wish to book the following program: Himalayan Trek 30 May-11 June 2015 Please send me Information about Gems of Sri Lanka 15-28 June 2015

I wish to book Land Content only YES ! NO ! I require a Single Supplement: YES ! NO ! I require a Double Room Twin Room Single Room I am a single, but if possible, would appreciate your finding me a Room Share. I am sending a TT Deposit of $ for the following passengers:

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Via the following method: Bank transfer/Credit Card Guarantee/Cheque I would prefer to provide a Credit Card Guarantee understanding this will only be activated according to the Terms and Conditions of Booking Below. The details are: Credit Card # Name on Card: Date of Expiry Security Code

Please Note: Though fully licensed Travel Agents, we opt not to handle the ticketing of airfares ourselves. I have appointed Cher Roscoe of Travelcall to handle all ticketing for our clients. This she does with great efficiency and highly knowledgeable customer service. Cher (or her expert colleagues: Jennie, Louise or Lina) at Travelcall can be contacted directly on 03)9867 1800 or Fax 03)9867 1822. Email: [email protected] To avoid disappointment, we strongly urge you to commence travel arrangements with appropriate insurance at the earliest possible time, especially if trying to use frequent flyer points. Our preferred airline to India is Singapore Airlines. Qantas have a partner program with the well-regarded Jet Airways connecting out of Singapore. Thai Airways via Bangkok connections. Malaysian via KL. I will contact Cher Roscoe directly at Travelcall, Level 15, 499 St Kilda Rd. Melbourne to book my ticket:! I will book my ticket with my own Travel Agent! I will be returning direct to Australia at the end of the Tour YES ! NO ! If not returning to Australia, my/our onward destination will be: For guests whose journey originates outside Australia, please notify us of your travel arrangements so you can be met on arrival. We need your full flight details for both the inward and outward journey. I arrive in on Flight No. at: on the date of: I leave from on Flight No at: on the date of: FOR GUESTS WISHING TO EXTEND THEIR TIME IN INDIA ON AN INDIVIDUAL BASIS, PLEASE LET US KNOW YOUR REQUIREMENTS. MY GROUND AGENTS IN INDIA HAVE EXTENSIVE EXPERTISE AND ARE BEST PLACED TO MAKE THESE ARRANGEMENTS FOR YOU. Please call 0419580381 to discuss this further onward travel in India. My Interests are: I require additional nights in for the following dates: I hereby acknowledge and agree to the Terms and Conditions outlined herein for the Tours, and recognize that I am fully aware of and responsible FOR ALSO SIGNING THE ASSUMPTION OF RISK FORM AT THE END OF THIS BROCHURE Signed..................................................................................Date............

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Conditions and General Information For Overseas Tour Programs Licence No: 32766 iata# 96-8 2997 abn 48123949048

Deposits A payment of a deposit indicates an acceptance of all the conditions below by the purchaser and/or Client.

Cancellation Policy A handling fee of $500 per person will be imposed if you cancel after reserving your place prior to the departure of your selected tour, irrespective of the deposit already paid. A fee totalling 50% of the total monies of the reserved tour will be retained if cancellation takes place 90-65 days prior to the tour. Less than 65 days before departure, NO REFUND of the total cost of the tour is available unless your place is resold, in which case you receive a 50% refund on the tour price.

Refunds No refund will be issued to those failing to join their tour, or for tour accommodation or any other services not utilised, or for a partially completed vacation. Marieke’s Art of Living reserves the right to cancel any departure in which case no liability shall fall upon the Company. In this case, participants' payment will be refunded in full. The Company does not refund any travel expenses already incurred by the client.

Travel Documents All travellers require valid passports with at least six months validity remaining. Travellers are also responsible for necessary visas and health certificates, and must meet all costs incurred to comply with such requirements.

Single Supplement A single supplement may be imposed when one person is travelling alone by choice or circumstance, as all costs presume twin share occupancy.

Children No provision is made for children under the age of 15.

Airport Departure Taxes Departure taxes, where levied, are the direct responsibility of the client.

Costs/Exchange Rates Prices and tariffs quoted for Tours are subject to change without notice in the event of unforeseen circumstances beyond our control, such as currency fluctuations.

Itinerary We reserve the right to vary or cancel the itinerary, accommodation, or services nominated in the Tour descriptions should circumstances warrant that such

changes would be in the best interest of the client, or for any other operational reason. The commencement of each Tour is subject to sufficient numbers booking a tour, and the right is reserved to cancel any Tour, should there not be sufficient bookings, in which case deposits will be refunded. However, Travel expenses already incurred cannot be reimbursed.

Insurance Insurance and evidence of insurance is mandatory before joining a Tour. In their own interests, clients are strongly recommended to effect travel insurance through a reputable company. The policy should cover personal accident and sickness, accidental loss of baggage and money, loss of deposit, payment or cancellation fees and curtailment expenses.

Statement of Responsibilities In all matters relating to travel, accommodation and other associated services, marieke’s Art of Living p/l, (hereafter called 'the Company') acts as a tour organiser for the Client who reserves and pays for such services and cannot be held liable for any person, firm or corporation who provides such services. The Company will take all reasonable care to ensure that the Client obtains travel, accommodation and other specified services and in making those arrangements does so as a convenience to the Client. However, the Company accepts no responsibility or liability for death, injury, sickness or accident to any person or loss of or any damage to any property or otherwise, or any cancellation, delay, detention, irregularity, deviation, substitution arising out of or in connection with any accommodation, transportation, conveyance or any other services provided by hotels, restaurants, airlines, coach companies or any other services. The Company is under no obligation or liability to any person as a result of any inaccuracy, misdescription or changes to any Tour or itinerary or for the losses or additional expenses due to delays, strikes, war, quarantine, acts of God, improper documents, or any other cause. Neither the Company, not its servants' agents or employees shall be or become liable or responsible for any additional expense or liability sustained or incurred by any tour member as a result of any of the foregoing causes. Prices quoted are subject to change without notice. Baggage and personal effects are at the passenger's own risk at all times. Unused services cannot be exchanged or refunded. The Company reserves the right to cancel a tour or modify the itinerary in any way it thinks desirable or substitute services in any way, and further reserves the right to decline to accept or retain any person as a member of the Tour. PLEASE REFER TO NEXT PAGE FOR ADDITIONAL “ASSUMPTION OF RISK FORM”

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Licence No: 32766 iata# 96-8 2997 abn 48123949048

Additional terms and Conditions for joining the Kashmir Trek YOUR TRIP AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK Marieke’s Art of Living is operating this Kashmir trek in a region where standards of accommodation, transport, safety, hygiene, medical facilities and other infrastructure may, at times, not be of the standard that you are used to at home. By booking with us you acknowledge that participation in this Kashmir trek involves inherent risks that may not be present in the case of conventional or less demanding holidays. These risks include, without limitation, the possibility of injury or death, psychological trauma, disease, loss or damage to property, inconvenience and discomfort. The possibility of experiencing all or some of these risks is likely to be higher if participation involves visiting remote or unstable regions, or regions where there is dangerous wildlife. It is your responsibility to accustom yourself with the travel advice provided by these government bodies (Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade, the British Foreign Office and the US Department of State), as well as that of your country of residency, before commencing the trip. By booking with Marieke’s Art of Living, you acknowledge your decision to travel the Kashmir trek is made after due consideration of relevant travel information that may be made available at any time. Acceptance of Risk Please be assured that our service providers will always do the utmost to ensure your safety and well-being when on tour. You are though required to sign the ‘Acceptance of Risk’ form prior to accepting your participation on the tour. The purpose of the form is to make you aware of the risks and dangers involved with travelling in these areas, and to indemnify the service provider and Marieke’s Art of Livning from any claims made by you for incidents arising due to circumstances outside the service provider’s and our reasonable control. EXCLUSION OF LIABILITY Except where stated otherwise, Marieke’s Art of Living acts as agent for service providers when making arrangements for your trip. Where we provide services we do so with due care and skill. Marieke’s Art of Living is not responsible for the acts and omissions of others, including tour guides, airlines and accommodation providers or for any loss, damage, death, injury or expense (including loss of money paid in advance), which you may incur as a consequence of the acts and omissions of others. You warrant that you have not relied on any representation made by Marieke’s Art of Living, any travel agent or other Representative, which has not been stated expressly in this brochure. Marieke’s Art of Living will not accept responsibility or liability if you contravene any law or regulation of any country or region visited. Any independent arrangements that you make that are not part of Kashmir trek (including pre- and post accommodation) are entirely at your own risk and Marieke’s Art of Living cannot and does not give you any assurance, representation or warranty in connection with any such arrangements. To the fullest extent permitted by law and subject to the exception set out below, Marieke’s Art of Living does not accept liability for any loss, damage, death or injury however caused (including through negligence), which you may directly or indirectly suffer in connection with or arising from this contract or your participation in a trip, or in respect of a failure or omission on the part of Marieke’s Art of Living to comply with its obligations under this contract, or in respect of any other conduct that we undertake in connection with a trip. To the fullest extent permitted by law and subject to the exception set out below, you also agree to release Marieke’s Art of Living and its officers, employees, agents and representatives (“Representatives”) from all costs, liability, loss and damage incurred by you in connection with your participation in any trip, and waive any associated claims that you may have against Marieke’s Art of Living or its Representatives as a result of your participation in the Kashmir trek. For these purposes, Marieke’s

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Art of Living enters into these Booking Conditions as trustee or agent for its Representatives. To the fullest extent permitted by law and subject to the exception set out below, any condition or warranty, which would otherwise be implied into these Booking Conditions is excluded. Where legislation implies any condition or warranty, and that legislation prohibits us from excluding or modifying the application of, or our liability under, any such condition or warranty, that condition or warranty will be deemed included but our liability will be limited for a breach of that condition or warranty to one or more of the following: (a) if the breach relates to goods, (i) the replacement of the goods or the supply of equivalent goods, (ii) the repair of such goods, (iii) the payment of the cost of replacing the goods or of acquiring equivalent goods or (iv) the payment of the cost of having the goods repaired; and (b) if the breach relates to services, (i) the supplying of the services again or (ii) the payment of the cost of having the services supplied again. Exception The “Exclusion of Liability” section set out in these Booking Conditions does not attempt or purport to exclude, restrict or modify liability arising under, or remedies that may be available to you, pursuant to legislation where the exclusion, restriction or modification of liability or remedies is not permitted. This includes legislation in part of the Trade Practices Act 1974 (Cth), and any state or territory Fair Trading Act (or its equivalent). ‘ASSUMPTION OF RISK’ THIS MUST ACCOMPANY YOUR BOOKING FORM I agree to this release of claims, waiver of liability and assumption of risk (collectively, this agreement). I waive any and all claims I may now and in the future have against, and release from all liability and agree not to sue M’s AoL and its officers, employees, guides, agents, or representatives (collectively staff) or the Licensor for any personal injury, death, property damage, or loss sustained by me as a result of my participation in an adventure trip with MoL due to any cause whatsoever. I am aware that your adventure trip, in addition to usual dangers and risks inherent has certain additional dangers and risks some of which may include: Physical exertion for which I may not be prepared, Weather extremes subject to sudden and unexpected change, Remoteness to normal medical services. Evacuation difficulties if I am disabled, and civil disorder. I accept all the inherent risks of the proposed adventure trip and possibility of personal injury, death, property damage or loss resulting therefrom. I acknowledge that the enjoyment and excitement of adventure travel is derived in part from the inherent risks incurred by travel and activity beyond the accepted safety of life at home or work and that theses inherent risks contribute to such enjoyment and excitement, being a reason for my participation. I agree that if I suffer injury or illness M’s AoL can, at my cost, arrange medical treatment and emergency evacuation service as M’s AoL deem essential for my safety. In entering into this agreement I am not relying on any oral, written or visual representations or statements by M’s AoL or its staff or any other inducement or coercion to go on the Kashmir trek, hence, only of my own free will. I confirm that I am over the age of 18 and that I have read and understood this Agreement prior to signing it and agree that this agreement will be binding upon my heirs, next of kin, executors, administrators and successors. Name: Signed: Date: