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Things to see and do... Bokor Mountain (The Hill). A National Park, construction site and area of historic interest. Tours can be sorted through the many tour operators or your guest house, although now you can again go up alone by hiring a moto (check the map on page 8). Atop the hill are the ruins of both the French built resort and the Khmer revamp of the site in the 60's. The story starts in 1917 when the French founders started the construction of the road, it took six years to complete and claimed over a thousand lives. The “Bokor Palace Hotel” opened in 1925 and catered for the wealthy, although it was never used as a casino. In 1940 it closed and stayed so until 1959 when Sihanouk (twice king and former prime minister) made the decision to make the site a world class resort. In 1963 the hill reopened with the added attraction of Cambodia's first casino in what is sometimes now called the “new hotel”. The complex continued to operate till 1972 when it once again closed. Sokha Hotels are currently building three new hotels and casinos on the hill, one is already open! They also plan to open a huge housing estate with a prospective population of over 100.000 people living up there. So lets hope it's third time lucky cos till now the hill has never made buck one! In this issue... P 110 Things to See and Do. P 1015 Do's, Dont's and Local Info. P 15 Daily Events. P 1516 Local Characters. P 1719 Street Food Guide. P 1922 Never Smile at a Crocodile. P 2324 Ask Lucky. P 2526 Potted History. P 27 Learn some useful Khmer. P 28 Projects & Volunteering. P 29 Transport, Useful Numbers. P 3031 Bars, Food & Rooms, Contact us. P 32 Not a Map. The Gods practised first on Heaven, then they made Kampot. Come and see why it's so special. Officially an unofficial guide to Kampot and its attractions, places to go and things to do. Kampot KSG Issue 23 June August 2012 FREE New Statue of YaMao on Bokor Hill Survival Guide Usually $1 where sold
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Kampot Survival Guide Issue 23

Oct 24, 2014

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Steve J

The God's practised first on Heaven, then they made Kampot. Come and see why it's so special. Officially an unofficial guide to Kampot and its attractions, places to go and things to do
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Page 1: Kampot Survival Guide Issue 23

Things to see and do...Bokor Mountain (The Hill). A National Park,construction site and area of historic interest.Tours can be sorted through the many touroperators or your guest house, although nowyou can again go up alone by hiring a moto(check the map on page 8). Atop the hill arethe ruins of both the French built resort and theKhmer re­vamp of the site in the 60's. Thestory starts in 1917 when the French foundersstarted the construction of the road, it took sixyears to complete and claimed over a thousandlives. The “Bokor Palace Hotel” opened in

1925 and catered for the wealthy, although itwas never used as a casino. In 1940 it closedand stayed so until 1959 when Sihanouk (twiceking and former prime minister) made thedecision to make the site a world class resort.In 1963 the hill re­opened with the addedattraction of Cambodia's first casino in what issometimes now called the “new hotel”. Thecomplex continued to operate till 1972 when itonce again closed. Sokha Hotels are currentlybuilding three new hotels and casinos on thehill, one is already open! They also plan toopen a huge housing estate with a prospectivepopulation of over 100.000 people living upthere. So lets hope it's third time lucky cos tillnow the hill has never made buck one!

In this issue...P 1­10 Things to See and Do.P 10­15 Do's, Dont's and Local Info.P 15 Daily Events.P 15­16 Local Characters.P 17­19 Street Food Guide.P 19­22 Never Smile at a Crocodile.P 23­24 Ask Lucky.P 25­26 Potted History.P 27 Learn some useful Khmer.P 28 Projects & Volunteering.P 29 Transport, Useful Numbers.P 30­31 Bars, Food & Rooms, Contact us.P 32 Not a Map.

The Gods practised first on Heaven, then they made Kampot. Come and see why it's so special.Officially an unofficial guide to Kampot and its attractions, places to go and things to do.KampotKSG Issue 23 June ­ August 2012 FREE

New Statue of Ya­Mao on Bokor Hill

Survival Guide

Usually

$1 where sold

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River, Boats & Trips. The river is really anestuary, thus its level only varies with the tideand in heavy rain, it is therefore salty andsupports sea life for the greater part of the year,fish and crab following their preferred salinelevels through the seasons, Tek Chhou is thebreaking point and beyond there it's all freshwater. It is very possible to hire a boat andcrew for the day, ask at your guesthouse or atone of the bars, most will be able to help, butthe best trips by far are those with Bart theBoatman 092174280. Popular trips are up theriver and its lost turns stopping at a couple ofriverside establishments to refresh, down theriver to the sea is good too with a nice view ofthe Cambodian navy and fishing fleets, and ofcourse the sunset cruises. For the early birddolphin watching trips are also possible, checkPrek Thnout Community.Rapids (Tek Chhou). A series of stones inflowing water, a major tourist resort for theKhmer and fun for all, cool crystal clear waterrunning down from the semi de­mined hills ofBokor. Unfortunately as there are now damsupstream the quantity of flowing water may bedisappointing, but it's still worth a look. One ofthe many Generals here has recently built a spaon the back of this water, he claims it hashealth improving qualities and has called it"Tada Bokor", so we have spring water as wellas just bottled now!The Front. The east bank is commonly justtermed the “front” and it's a great place to befor sunset and dar­ling, strolling, rolling andconversing around sunset. Most of theforeigner orientated business' are concentratedalong this strip or near to it, so it's a greatstarting place for the evening, later openingbars tend to be further from the front, on yourway home!

Beach. There are a few beaches within spittingdistance of Kampot, those at Kep and the socalled secret (Angkaul) beach, ones to thesouth of Kampot and those about 17Km towardSnook along highway 3. There are even tidedependent beaches all along the river, Utopiaand the Green House have their own beachesthat defy the tide. Some of the beaches stillbear the scars of seaweed farming with massesof wooden poles piercing the shallow sea,between them are typical Khmer houses builton stilts, 500m or more out to sea.Fish Isle & Nut Hill. Go over either bridgetowards Snook and turn second left, soon you

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will cross a bridge, you are now on fish isle,keep to the main part of the road andeventually you will get to the new trails andthen the coast. It's a stunning place to explorewith amazing 270° views that are far too goodto miss!

Caves. There are many caves around Kampot,many have Buddhist shrines with specificpowers, so you may well see people campedthere seeking help for their ailments. Thoughby far the best caves are at Kampong Trach, itmay cost you a little more to get there but itsworth it, about 40km toward the Vietnameseborder.The National Zoo! Along the Tek Chhou roadand just past Utopia you will find the Zoo. Youcan enjoy the zoo in many ways, it will shockyou but you will enjoy it. It has a surprisinglylarge range of animals from all over the world,most of which you will see as they don't makecages where the animals can hide. Paying asmall extra charge lets you ride your moto, tuktuk or drive a car round the zoo, just to makesure the specimens are awake. Strangely theZoo also has rooms available, but the cages aremuch cheaper.

Legend of Kampot termsPot = Kampot. Pot­pat® = x­pat living inthe Pot. Snook = Sihanoukville / KompongSom (where Pot­pats go to die). Bodge =Cambodia/Cambodge. GH = Guesthouse.PP = Phnom Penh. Fish Isle = Koh D'tray.Nut Hill = Phnom Dung. Nuts = Coconuts.Snail = Backpacker. Boom boom = bodycavity/sausage massage. Gaylim = daelimfrom Kep or with basket. Taxi girl/boy =body cavity/sausage masseur. Repeatoffender = tourist or x­pat that keepsreturning to the Pot. JF = KSG's first acereporter, Jack the Father. Glue = tobaccosubstitute. KSG = Kampot Survival Guide.X­Pot = X Pot­pat. The Hill = BokorMountain. Poofta = one who is kepish or notreally trying (Belgian in origin). Pirate =someone on a boat trip. KFC = KampotFootball Club. Got questions about Kampot, ask them here.

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Museum. With the recent loss of the culturalcenter in Kampot no proper museums exist atpresent, but lo, we have a saviour in the nameof Jean­Michel Filippi. He plans to open aregional interactive museum, he has a websitetoo, check it out.http://kampotmuseum.wordpress.com/Magic (White) Mountain. With a little helpyou may be able to find this one, it's more of ahill than a mountain but its still a sod climbingit, scattered around the hill are shrines and atthe top you may well meet the witch and hertwo followers, don't piss them off as the spellsthey cast are good.Waterfalls. The falls are seasonal here, thereis little point in visiting during the dry seasonand they can be hard to get to in the wet. Mostmoto drivers and all guides will know how toget you to the most popular ones, at worst itshould only take you two hours to walk tothem, though much longer if you are stupid anddecide to wear flip flops. It's said that one setof falls has been seen by less than 10westerners since its discovery in the early1900's, so don't bother asking where they are.Trekking. Use guides and stick to the paths,take the given advice, if you plan to do the hillcontact the Rangers or a tour that uses them,it's dangerous up there so take sensible thingswith you, ipods rarely save lives.Dams and Lakes. A series of small dams haverecently been repaired just outside Kampot,they were originally built as a KR project andnever a secret lake, but they lasted till the late90's when one failed. Now they are rapidlybecoming touristed with a small selection ofbars n cafe's skirting the edges of the reservoirand the durian plantations. Rubber rings andpeddilo boats may be hired though the scenery

should be enough to keep you happy. To getthere head towards Kep and turn left at therhino, then go straight on till you see the water,easy. Up the river from the rapids the Chineseare constructing a huge dam, we all hate it tooas it's flooded us all at least twice, but thefinished project will produce 180MW with justthe small cost of 2K hectares of national park.Pagodas. Look for the tell tale fancy gates andsoon you will see the Pagodas, the monks arealways happy to see you and practise theirEnglish, do wear suitable clothing whenvisiting, don't show too much flesh that is.Secret Pagoda. It's not really a secret andhardly a pagoda, but it's one of the seven secretplaces the Pot used to boast (the not so secretlake was never one of them!). There are twoways of getting there, walking or riding, Iknow which method I would choose cos it's upa steep hill. To get there head up towards therapids, if you plan to walk the turning you wantis a left before the zoo, riding you go for theleft turn after the zoo, there is a statue of ayoung prince on the way up, he eventuallybecame Buddha. Take a camera as the viewsare stunning.Bird House. Thanks to the Chinese influence

Standard Cambodian Units.KW or Kilowatt = Number of Watts orPagodas per province.9mm = The gap between any two items thatshould be connected.Power to weight ratio = If you have power,you don't have to wait (also applies to money).Maximum passenger load = there is alwaysspace for one more.Western Conversions.1 Khmer unit = 1.5 – 2 Western units.This works for prices, sizes, drinks, seats anddistances.

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in Kampot we have many bird houses thatproduce a truly Chinese delicacy, birds nestsoup. Some of these houses are make shift andothers are specially built for the job. On theTek Chhou road next to the generator plant ahuge bird house has been built, just look for abig house with no windows. They simulatecave conditions and tempt the birds in byplaying looped bird calls, playing loudest atsunrise and sunset.Bridges. We have 3 of them, all can be walkedbut by far the most fun is the railway bridge,take a walk over it and check out the battledamage. The new bridge is now a fashionablemeeting place for kids, especially now it hasnew road markings, painted on just over a yearafter its opening. The old bridge is still just adeath trap, be careful in the wet or at sunset!Railway Station. Futuristic design in acorrugated rust peppered steel shell. For a tasteof how good this station is check out the one16Km towards Snook, it's just off the mainroad and somewhat lacking in the walls androof departments, but it still makes a crackingpicture. A company called Toll Holdings wonthe concession to revamp these lines over fouryears ago, they promised we would have aworking train system within two years thatwould speed us to pp in about three hours, weare still bloody waiting!Bamboo Train. Running on the main rail lines(where available) these small make shift trainsare/were available for rent, tour groups andmoto drivers know/knew how to get yourolling on one of these moto powered trains,rumours also suggest you may well be able toenter Vietnam by one, though the legalities aresomewhat doubtful.Port. A deep water port is under constructionnot far past the entrance to Bokor, no prizes forguessing what traffic they are looking for, yep

cruise ships to fill the new rooms and casinoson the hill, although they do have a free tradezone planned too. It could be an interesting tripif you have never seen a port being built.Kampot Airport, KMT (Daelim Drag­racingTrack). Along the Tek Chhou road andopposite the school is the old air strip, or as wehave it now the Daelim drag strip. Recently ithosted trials between the cream of Kampot andthe best of Snook. Expect more action soon asthe national league is formed, also expectKampot to be atop of this league.Pepper. Bloody good pepper is grown in these

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parts, probably the best in the world! Basictours are available everywhere but for the fullstory contact "Sok Lim Tours" as they areplanning specialised tours. So go out to aplantation and see how it's grown and don'tforget to buy some before you leave here.Durian (the king of fruits). This is what thearea is famous for, the worlds best durian fruit.A spiky smelly fruit, eat with your mouth notyour nose! There are many plantations alongthe Tek Chhou road to the rapids.Salt. This is a major Kampot export, south of

the city are many salt flats skirting the coastsand the salty rivers, some of the easiest to seeare on fish isle, second left over either bridgeand straight on, or just head south along theeast bank of the river. There is a theory riceproduction is about to be started in these veryareas, the worlds first ready salted rice will beKhmer!Pot Holes. The pot hole was invented inKampot and is still it's greatest export. Initiallydevised for traffic control it's popularityrecently soared with Cambodia's adoption of"free range golf". A game where you hit a golfball in any direction with the intent to end itstravel in a pot hole.Water Sports. The world is your lobster herewith an ever expanding choice of ways to playin the river. At present we have canoes, speedboats, jet ski's, wind surfing, water skiing, kitesurfing and more, check out the ad's or listingsfor more details.Aquatic Centre. The National OlympicCommittee of Cambodia has just opened thecountry's first Aquatic Centre here in the Pot,it's intended to give training for rowerscompeting in the Olympic, SEA and AsianGames but will eventually be used forrecreation and tourism. So get down there andcheck out the dragon boats.Boxing. Official boxing events do happen herebut not often, though it's far more likely youwill see bar owners squaring up to each otherlate on the front, this is all part of the build upfor Kampot's Inter Bar Boxing Championshipto be held next season, Snook has a similarproject for sumo and Kep is going the mudwrestling route.Football. You can often catch a game at theOlympic stadium near the main traffic circle,

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there has even been a couple of tournamentsthere, so check it out it could be fun.Volley ball. Sporadic games are played at thewaste ground near the old bridge, find a goodmoto to lean on or sit on the wall.Pétanque/Boules. A game played with metalballs and becoming increasingly popular in thePot, you will see many locals lobing balls intheir spare time. There are plenty of pitchesaround that you may be able to get a game,though the easiest to find are at the Boules barand Blissful GH.Badminton. Epic Arts performance centre hasfacilities for playing, equipment may be hiredand booking in advance seems like a good ideato avoid disappointment.Gym. There is no official gym in the city,Orchid guest house used to have some weightsand a bench, Utopia has a make shift jungletype gym with the extra attraction of trainingwith Max the knife. Recent reports suggestthere may well be a boxing style gym openacross the river, it's on the Tek Chhou road andbetween the bridges.Fishing. It's possible but don't expect to be asgood as the locals are. Ultimately fishing onlygives you practise at waiting, that's why it's notcalled catching.Golf. No we do not have a course yet but oneis in the way, on fish isle so we are told. Theclosest golf may well be the crazy golf courseat the "Magic Sponge". For a proper courseyou'll have to go to PP.Swimming. Swimming within the city limitsis strictly prohibited with the exception of theriver, which has been designated the officialswimming pool, several bars have offered freebeer to the first to swim a length. But do bearin mind the nature of the river and its tidalcycles before jumping in, the tide means thatshite dropped in the river during the dry seasonhangs around, so it may be better to headfurther up the river, or to the rapids or thebeach.Swimming Pools. Borey Bokor I has a poolwhere you can pay per day, the cost may be ashigh as $5 per a day. Pools further out includeVilla Vidici and Nataya, with almosteverywhere in Kep having pools, but accessmay be limited or expensive.Pool. There are but a few tables in the city andall of them are obstructed. A couple of Khmerplaces have rough ones, Bodhi Villa has areasonable table upstairs, the Magic Sponge,Wunderbar and Madi's also have tables of

differing qualities.Palm Wine. A natural and traditional localdrink, best taken close to where its made, anymoto or tuk tuk driver will be happy take youout to try some, but be careful it's surprisinglystrong and smells like sour milk.Rice Wine. This fella can really batter you, it'sbloody cheap and well strong, many Khmercafé’s will have large jars full of the stuff,usually with strange additives in them, like oddvegetables and dead reptiles, caution isrecommended.Shopping. Almost everything is available inthe mass of shops between new and old bridgestreets, the market etc. There are alsosupermarkets, OK, well two and they are on themain and the salt workers traffic circles.Market. What can I say, markets are marketsand are the same the world over, crowded hotand cramped, but you can buy cheap food andall sorts of goods there.Old Market. Piercing the front is the end ofthe old market, it has been home for thehomeless but most recently its was used forboat storage and indoor volleyball matches, wethink the boats may have been rescue boats forthe rainy season. Soon though the market will

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re­open as stalls are now on sale, get in quick ifyou want one!Hospital. Between the old and new bridgesyou will see the hospital, it's been under heavyconstruction and is filling us all with hope asmany forign nationals have been stocking it upwith new high tech equipment. Remember it isa referral hospital so it may well be closedwhen you have your accident. Near the newbridge road is a flash clinic that has been usefulfor filling the out of hours gap. Best of all isthe new Sonja Kill Memorial Hospital near tothe Bokor Hill entrance, it currently has outpatient service from highly qualified westernand Khmer Doctors. So now we have a choice!Prison. Well worth a look, see just what youcan expect if you seriously cross the line here.On average there are two westerners in theprison all the time, so be good! Prisoners areoften seen around town working in sort ofchain gangs, but without the chains, it seemsnone of them try to escape. It's usually OK to

take pic's but if they're on guard, ask first.Pond (mosquito farm). Just back from thefront is the pond, it's a pretty spot and quitepicturesque, it may even be worth fishing there.Massage. You are spoilt for choice here butmy X­wife's particular favourite is the SreyChann 017621958, she has a shop just roundthe corner from the post office. Seeing HandsVb is next to Bar­Red and is good. Fragranceoffers stylish surroundings and similar waresand is one street back from the front.Manicure. A late night emergency service isnow available at the new clinic, for standardservice try Tokyo Salone opposite Bar­Red orJolie Jolie near Paris GH..Betting. Once upon a time the governmentlicensed betting offices, this avenue of pleasurehas now been taken away from the averageKhmer, religion may well be the only gamblethe Khmer have left. But down at the bordercrossing things are different, in no­mans landthey have built several casinos, one even has a

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booking office near to the bus station, pop in ansee what offers they have. A new hotel andcasino has just opened on the hill, it's not in avery picturesque spot, but casino's don't needviews.Cyclo Rides. Due to the eccentricities of Pot­Pats Kampot now has Cyclo rides on offer, youmay even be able to rent one to get a real tasteof work, so go and get sweaty.Moto Rental. It's popular, it's fun and it'sdangerous. Motos are cheap to rent and veryavailable, the roads however are pretty bad andlocal traffic rules will evade you, so go slow,

watch out for cows n kids, go really slow ondirt roads or in the rain and always show thePot­Pats your latest wounds.Dirtbike Rental. Dirtbikes in Cambodia areinherently gay as everywhere a dirtbike goes, aDaelim has been before, probably carrying 4people and all their luggage. They are howeveravailable for rent, be careful.Cinema. As all four cinemas in town closed along time back, the city is now without suchfacilities, until December 2009 that was as theRoyal Theatre was re­opened to hostCambofest, an international film festival.Kampot also has couple of semi big screens,check advertising to see who is showing whatand where. Epic Arts and Kepler Books sellDVD's too, which could be handy if you haveaccess to a player.Nightlife. The Pot has a full compliment ofnightlife available, with late night bars, foodand now even a night club.Live Music. Several warring factions ofmusicians have graced Kampot bars this year,almost all of them so expect to hear live musicdrifting along the river and side streets. Sadlyno real battle of the bands has occurred yet,though we are told Pot musicians are in themiddle of a price war. Several open mic nightsexist too so check out the chalk boards formore details.Karaoke. There are many opportunities tosing your heart out in Kampot, most suchestablishments dot the outskirts of the city but afew have sneaked within the city limits, to findthem hire a Tuk Tuk or follow the noise, but beaware these places are there to make money,this is done via hostesses or inflated prices.Boom Boom (Sausage Services). There aremany venues for internal body massage withinthis fair city, currently over 15 and normallyaimed at a quick fire one stop service. Don't

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ever think it's like Thailand, Snook or PP, it'sKhmer style business, Mc Donald's of the east.Just look for red lights at night (with theexception of the red neon bar sign!) or visit oneof the many late night Karaoke bars. Oh, andthere is no truth in the rumour that you win abadge for doing all 15 in one night. Whateveryou do, always use a wilkinson (love sock)!Gay. Kampot now has a thriving gay scene, somuch so that there is little point in going toKep any more. Sadly there are no set bars orclubs to accommodate the masses, though theDragon Club does its best. So you will have to

look around, thankfully all bars are gayfriendly.Kep. Day trips are OK but furtherinvestigation seems unnecessary, unless you'rea loner or a romancing couple wanting to getaway from it all. All that said, Kep has someodd qualities that strangely shine through,empty houses, trails and beaches make for easyand pleasurable exploring, also with businessesin Kep being an average of over 1km apart youwill get some maybe needed exercise.Do's, Dont's and Local Info...

The King. Probably the coolest King in theworld, never seen without a smile and anencouraging word, truly a great man. He alsohas a cracking sense of humour, and althoughhe lives in Siem Reap we know he has a softspot for the Pot. It's OK to ask questions aboutthe King, everybody seems to love to talk abouthim, my X­wife has even had an audience withhim, a joking and laughing affair. See, it's notodd here like it is in Thailand.Locals. Generally very friendly, all will wantto help you, many will want to practice theirEnglish on you so be prepared for a slow startto the conversation, and watch out for the kidsand their “hello ambushes”.Pot­Pats. Many Pot­Pats grace Kampot, someworking on projects and manning the manywestern businesses, others eke out an existencein unknown manners, all will be bored of traveltales and backpacker woes, but most will alsobe happy to talk to interesting folk for the priceof some beers.Beggars. Stump envy has hit Kampot withable bodied beggars renting crutches, be sure tocheck the quantity of limbs before donating tosome of these beggars, but don't forget somepeople rely on these donations for survival,

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there are no pensions or free health service'shere.Backpackers. Known as snails to Pot­Pats,pregnant if wearing two backpacks (when seenwithout backpacks they are sometimes callednaked or slugs). Usually seen walking fromGH to GH while fully packed, being too damntight to pay for a moto driver or tuk tuk thatwould help them (yes you, put my guide backyou tight git!). Generally welcomed in city barsas long as the money is good, rumours ofbackpackers being shot on sight in Kep areunfounded.Hippies. Several have been sighted during thepast few months but in vastly diminishingnumbers, the secret eradication scheme seemsto be working, a local spokesman states: “Weare glad to see an end to the 'Suspected HippiesIn Transit' problem”.Backpacks. Contrary to common backpackerbelief, you do not need to carry a backpack allthe time in Kampot, nor do you need to carrywater bottles. In seven years of living here Ihave never needed more than pocket space forall necessary items, if I need a drink I buy onefrom the many vendors, and it's cold too!Lonely Planet. After years of research, theactual use of the Lonely Planet guide has beendiscovered. The book in its true form should beheld in front of the user, so the said user mayread the content you may think, but wrongly. Itis actually just used as a counterbalance to thebackpack the user is wearing, QED.Rough Guide. Very similar to the LP but soonto be updated. Actually we know the budget forupdating this baby, it cost an air fare and sixweeks of $20/day, a total of less than $2000, soit's very doubtful this update will be extensive.Footprint Guide. This fella was a brand newguide, written from scratch we were told. Itwas most surprising when reading the listingswithin it that it listed businesses that had closedmore than six years previous, a very bloodypoor effort indeed!Sun. A bristled head is not adequate UVprotection so always wear a hat, localsunblocks also have added ingredients you maywish to avoid, i.e. bleaching agents to whitenyour skin, so watch out.Money. The power of the dollar is failing, thussome establishments will offer you exchangerates as low as R3800 to the $1, it's a good timeto switch to the Euro.Haggling. Bartering is expected in markets,

it's fun and should find a price both parties arehappy with, but if you see a price listed that'sthe price you pay.Smokes. Cigarettes are cheap and plentifulhere but watch out you don't run short late atnight, or you may pay some guy on the streetdouble price for an open pack.Glue. Smoking weed in Kampot is generally ano no, a few places may allow you to smoke inan out of the way place but ask first, further outof town it's less strict. Don't forget it's illegal tosell weed in Cambodia, so don't bother askingthe Pot­Pats to sell you some, you won't getany and you will get offended.Beers. Draught beer has hit Kampot, currentlywe have three different flavours, CambodiaBeer, Anchor and Angkor, my fave isCambodia as it's the only one thats owned byCambodians, Anchor is brewed under aSingapore license and Angkor is owned by theDanes and Malaysians. Many canned andbottled beers are available to suit all tastes, butthe local fave is Anchor cans, it separatesresidents from tourists who insist on drinkingAngkor, sometimes in big bottles, warm beerusers are odd!

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Water. Don't drink the tap water, old old story,but you can purify it by adding two parts vodkato one part tap water. Bottled water is availableeverywhere, even the cheapest is OK but tastesdiffer, just look for shops with an orange icebox outside, and to be honest, I have foundnowhere in the Pot where you can't see coldwater for sale, so it's silly to carry water withyou.Food. All the food is good here, the ice isgood too, so don't be a poof about it. Mostbusinesses serve food till about 21.30, if youmiss that window of opportunity not all is lostbut your choice drops dramatically, check outthe street food guide later in this rag.MSG. Man­made salty gravy, not seen in mostrestaurants due the the availability of freshproduce, however it's totally necessary oninstant noodles.Toilets. There are no western type publictoilets in Kampot, but all proper bars havethem, phew! Khmer toilets are everywhere,every bush, tree and sign is fair game.The Bum Gun. Possibly the best inventionever and has made possible the true paperlessoffice. Kampot is now a high water pressurearea so be careful while practising, turn on atap to help reduce the spray pressure. It's otheruses are many fold and range from the intendedbum cleaning to ant control, but possibly myfave is mosquito killing, use the gun to shootthe buggers down and let surface tension do therest.Doctoring. There's a Pharmacy on the maintraffic circle, its a well stocked first call, fromthere its possibly best to check the new clinicnear the new bridge road or the Sonja KillMemorial Hospital, from there PP and thenBangkok, best of all just don't get ill. Even ifyou are not ill you could always just have a

medical treat, you could have an x­ray or bodyscan for $10 or so, so go on, spoil yourself.Dehydration. This is what we all have towatch out for, it's all too easy not to drinkenough, eventually you stop sweating andoverheat, cooking yourself. So keep the fluidscoming in.Elephants. No we do not have our ownelephant but we do have one visit from time totime, it comes from Chook and pops down witha magic medicine man selling charms to themasses, it usually stops at the market but hasbeen sighted on the Tek Chhou road headingfor the rapids, probably on the way for a swim.Dangerous Animals. Reports of crocodile andshark attacks in the river are unproven, tigerand bear on the hill also have a disappointinglylow body count, the last elephant reportedapparently packed its trunk and headed off tojoin the circus, snakes and spiders are rarelyseen due to their prominence on local menus,so it's unlikely you'll have any animal problemshere, it's far more dangerous riding bikes.Dogs. Now these can be a problem. MostKhmer families have dogs (actually all dogs inCambodia have the same name, dog,pronounced “ch kai”) and at night they putthem on the streets to protect their property.Problem is that the later it gets the more thedogs protect, they form packs, gangs and sendcoded messages across town coordinating theirattacks. When staggering home late, walk inthe middle of the road with a confident pace, ifyou are hounded turn round sharply and cockyour arm ready to throw imaginary stones atthem, it works. If you do actually get bittentake it seriously and get rabies shots, preferablyin the Pasteur Institute Phnom Penh, get themstraight away and they're cheap, wait and you

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will get a huge bill or die.Cats. Most cats here are genetically stunted,well their tails are. They are not mutilated atbirth as some think, they actually come out thatway, poor sods. It seems they were introducedby the French along with sparrows andpigeons, but in insufficient numbers so theirgene pool is very limited.Malaria/Mosquitoes. There are no majormalaria problems in Kampot, there arehowever many mosquitoes so get some deeton. If you intend on doing the hill put lots ofdeet on as there you can actually get malaria,oh and don't trust the local medicines as manyare Chinese fakes, as they are too in many ofthe local clinics, so beware!Ants. All ants are bastards, ask any local orPot­Pat. Avoid encouraging them by notbringing food into your room, protect yourdrink with the condensation formed on yourglass, produce a small puddle and the ants willleave your pop alone. Try not to stand in thesame place too long, ants attack feet regularly,watch out for tree ants too, they're big red andusually attack from above. Local kids havefound offensive uses for these savage creatures,it has been known for people to be hit by antbombs, whole nests of pissed off tree ants arethrown at their intended target, devastating.Coconuts. Nuts are a real problem, they claimas many as 600 lives each year in Thailand, soavoid loitering around the bottom of nut trees,unless you want to help us beat the Thai's.Lightning. More than 100 deaths every wetseason, and the last one was quite an averagewet season! It's a good idea to think aboutwhere you are standing when it rains.Statues. Most road junctions are marked witha statue, it makes sense when a large part of thepopulation cannot read, it makes it possible totravel long distances without maps or sign

posts, i.e. go straight on at the rhino and thenturn left at the horse.Walking. It's safe walking in Kampot, but acouple of bag thefts have been reportedrecently, this is new and a very rare thing, sodon't panic! Just avoid using bags, if you needa bag look after it and only put the things youneed in it.Parking. Generally its OK to park anywherein Kampot, but do have a look to see if you areparking in someone's drive, Khmer get pissedoff if they can't get their land cruiser in thedrive, Pot­Pats throw rocks at you, parking can

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be tough in some areas! So park outside thebusiness you are visiting, or along the riverside of the front. As to parking yourself it's bestto take a room, sleeping out may cost you a lotmore in fines!Electricity. Do not bet on the timing or lengthof power cuts, the supplier and Cambo 6 havethe system rigged.Street Lighting. Don't expect any and youwon't be disappointed. Some of the main areasnow sport fancy lanterns and make forfavourable routes across town, but sadly themajority of the city is without. Take a torchwith you if you are staying out of the way andplan to be out late. Kep has recently installedstreet lighting along its beach front, this is notfor the pleasure of tourists but to attract crabs.Banks. There are two main banks in Kampot,Acleda and Canadia, both should be able tohelp. Canadia Bank also has a new ATM thataccepts all major cards with the ATM at Acledaonly accepting Visa cards. A new bank withATM has just opened on the PP road towardsthe market, too much choice!Post Office. Ah, opening times, er well this isCambodia and things don't always run to stricttimetables, but the best time I have found ismid morning, after that you are in unknownterritory. The office will also close for everypublic holiday and half excuse.Photo Shop. There are a few capable photoshops in town, a couple on the main trafficcircle and one past the market.Internet and International Calls. There aremany net cafés in the city, some of them beingsituated along old bridge street and some on ornear to the front, all should be able to handlevoice over internet calls, CD burning, printingand basic surfing.Book Shop. There is the newsagent near themain traffic circle and Kepler's books opposite

the old market, some guest houses also sellbooks.Newsagent. Near the main traffic circle is anewsagent, its well stocked in Kampot termsand can be handy if you really want a copy ofthe previous days news, yes they keep them forodd sods like me.TV. We have cable TV here but the channelselection is limited, retune your set to accessany new channels available. Pay per view isavailable for channels not normally supplied, acase of Anchor usually does it.Radio. There is one radio station you canreceive on FM, Kampot's local one in Khmer,short wave gives you more choice but you canstill only get 12 hrs of BBC.Weather. “There are holes in the sky wherethe rain gets in, but they are only small, that'swhy rain is thin” words of wisdom by SpineMillington. According to our weather teamrainy season is here, so expect to get wet. If itdoes rain on you remember to claim your visarefund, $5 for each day of rain, be sure to savesome rain as proof. Joking apart the rainalways warns you when it's coming, if the windgets up, take cover!Police. If you manage to get entangled withthe police its probably best to get yourguesthouse involved, do tell the Pot­Pat's too asthey love a good laugh, and don't expectsympathy from anyone, its a Khmer way tolaugh at such things, especially death.Theft. There is very little theft in Kampot, buttry not to put temptation in people's way. Yourshoes however may well be in danger, this veryreal threat is from drunken backpackers, sowatch out!Politics. There are three main parties operatingwithin Kampot province, the “TupperwareParty” the “Anne Summers Party” and the“Fancy Dress Party”. It's best not to go too far

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into Khmer politics, just accept it.Corruption. There is no corruption inCambodia, none at all! The country, like all ofits neighbours, is commission based, that's whyit's so easy to do things here, everybody willhelp you because they earn a small fee for theireffort.Commission. Please refer to corruption.Daily Events...

Dar­ling. A daily slow motorbike race comestunt bike trials along the river front, displaysevery night all along the front at sunset.Fishing Boat Race. “Gok­sok” is the currentleader of the league but competition is hottingup, every afternoon around 5pm they racedown the river to the rich pickings of the sea,it's a nail biting thriller that sets the frame forsunset and the end of another hectic day.Traffic Circle. Occasionally there areconcerts, fairs and promotions at the maintraffic circle, there may be live music, films,stalls and games to play, so get down there ifyou suspect something maybe on.Shrimp Fishing. Every evening you will seemen with miners' lamps scouring the riverbanks hunting for shrimp. Its worth a look asthe guys are always friendly.Fruit Stalls. Every evening old bridge streetfills up with fruit shake stalls, various strangefruits are converted to fluid before your veryeyes, it's worth a look.Line Dancing. At sunset in the park behindthe old market local fatties attempt to looseexcess weight, it's a serious affair and costsmoney to join in, though it's enough fun justwatching.Local Characters...

$100 Prize offered for the first reader withconfirmed sightings of all listed characters, tickthem off as you go, preferably withphotographic evidence and thumb prints.Note: We no longer list Khmer characters dueto local western liberal minded, do gooder,racist, NGO type complaints. Crazy Frog. There are two contenders forthe title of “crazy frog”, neither are French butboth mimic their chosen idol closely, rarelyseen together but both parade the river frontalmost daily. Darth Vader. Large shiny foreigner seencruising the front during opening hours, it issuspected that he is engaged in market

research, selected candidates are interrogated insitu wherever he catches them, watch out forthis odd character. Push Bikie Man (AKA Jack the Father orJF). Sweaty skinny foreigner always seenattached to some form of pedal poweredtransport, Bokor Hill is no challenge for thisguy so his local knowledge of impassable trailsis unsurpassed within the Province, oftenoffensive to tourists and Pot­Pats alike,approach with caution. Racy Dog. Racy patrols a beat around the2000 monument, he is currently unbeaten byany form of motor transport, probably all youwill see of him is his clean pair of heels as hepasses you. Bag Lady. Seen cruising the streets on amodified bicycle with basket, has a totalobsession with plastic bags but is rarely seenwith any, contact should be avoided. Mr Tongue. Seen performing at the home ofgurning, a somewhat corroded establishment.Observed clearing his or others nostrils with histongue, a must see. Mr Spoons. Utilising the latest spoon tuningtechniques, Mr Spoons is devising newmethods of mine detection and destruction.

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This pasty munching spoon playing jeep ridingfella should be avoided in polite conversation.Last seen performing Indiana Jonesimpressions along the front. Predator. Following his successful moviecareer Predator has settled in the Pot, truth betold he actually twatted Arnie, anyhow youmay catch sight of the big man either on landor water as he is a nautical type and mostlyfriendly. Bat Woman. Working a beat from the Pot toPP Bat Woman dispatches mosquitoes toBuddha for rapid reincarnation, sometimesseen wheilding two bats in a martial artsfrenzy, somewhat akin to the star wars movies,at selected bars only. Ringo Starr (AKA Crash Test Dummy).This jovial fellow has crash tested most moto'son hire in Kampot, he will gladly show you hislatest wounds at a local guest house, totallyharmless and answers to “Eric”, though in anangry fashion. Sand Man. Often seen scooting around onwheels or rowing his boat, usually looking forlost shoes and food. Like most Scots he hasstrange sleeping habits so also look for him insand piles, ditches and drives, friendly to all. Gnome. Can be seen traversing the roadslate at night in search of fluids, this rain readyfellow has aspirations of being a jockey, sonever turn your back on him, he also attemptsterminator impressions, usually friendly andmostly harmless. Vibro Man. Submitted by David of HInfamy's Spouse. This guy patrols the taxiranks practising his Bilbo Baggins impressions,requiring vast amounts of fluids for theseperformances he may well apply to you forsponsorship, and if he likes you he might evenshow you his collection of vibrating electrical

appliances, unmissable! Comba Crew. This trio of musically mindedfolk perform mime and air guitar whilstkeeping their eyes closed in fear of popping.Seen most evenings at musically minded bars. Gandhi Man. This spindle legged fellow canbe seen during the early evenings, usually cladwith some form of writing and willing to sellbooks to anyone, friendly and usually harmless. Sausage Hunter (AKA Head Hunter). Thismainly nocturnal lass can be seen scouting outnew happy hours and local bars. Well versedwith the worlds mating rituals and habits thislass tracks down and secures her kills beforeclosing time. Approach with caution. Rubber Band Man. This flexible fellow isin training to become a one man band,confirmed sightings are sporadic butrewarding, dependant on his fluid level.Friendly but don't mention the ashes!By Steve J (with a "P")KSG Users Comments...A truly great beer mat substitute, J.S, UK.Invaluable in a country without toilet paper,A.M, SA. I couldn't read it but it stopped mytable wobbling, W T Spain. Your guide isuseless in Sihanoukville, M.H, USA. Piratesstole my copy! P.S, UK. My copy has killed atleast 50 mosquitoes, L.F, France. Where can Ibuy a copy of the legendary issue 4? S N,Snook. It's too thin for roaching, F.T NL.Promise you will never translate this intoFrench, B.M. Fra. You never warned me aboutwasps, can I sue? A.T. Aus. I extended mypleasure of your guide by soaking it in petrolso it burnt longer, T.W. Kep. I'm confused!F.G. Pot. When folded coffectly the rag makesa good weed pouch, J.B. USA.

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Kampot Street Food GuideCheap Eats For About A Dollar.Spam Baguettes: half or full bread roll withtwo or three kinds of highly processed wtfersatz meat (allegedly pork), shallot, cucumberand tomato with sweet or chili sauce. Price:R1500 to R2500. Where: all around Kampot(look for the stack of baguettes on an amblingtrolley) but centralized around the main trafficcircle and down old bridge road in theevenings. SB’s are also available in chickenand pork versions but while the meat isrecognizable, they are more expensive andmeat portions can be parsimonious.Fruit Drinks: identifiable and exotic fruits ofyour choice are placed in a blender andemulsified with sweetened condensed milk,coconut milk, sugar, Milo, ice and possibly anegg. Tastes a lot better than it sounds butinsulin dependent diabetics should approachwith caution. Price: R2000. Where: on the oldbridge road and on the Kep road just past theTwo Cows intersection and on a peripatetictrolley coming soon to you.Sweet Food: another workout for your

pancreas. Bananas, beans, sticky rice, gingerand other fruits are sliced and diced and placedin a marinade of sweetened condensed milk,coconut milk liquefied sugar and egg andserved in a plastic cup with a spoon. Again,better than the description would indicate.Price: R1000. Where: on the old bridge road,down from the Canadia bank ATM and in frontof the cake shop at the main traffic circle.Noodles: a half a liter of normal saline is addedto generic dried packet noodles and thenvarious goodies are added to the mix. Some ofthese goodies are recognizable. The plasticflavouring sachets are sometimes left in thebowl at serving, possibly to provide extradietary roughage but more likely todemonstrate that you are eating a qualityproduct. This is an excellent all­roundnutritious and electrolyte replacement meal.Price: R2000 to R4000 for the chock full of wtfprotein version. Where: everywhere. Look forthe stack of packet noodles on stalls orrambling trolleys.Ice Cream: despite popular travel guide bookswarning to the contrary, Kampot expats do eatlocally made ice cream from meandering

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trolleys without subsequently going to thetoilet a lot. There are at least four sellers intown but look for the man with the itinerantbicycle powered trolley along riverside. Price:R500 to R1000Popcorn: The sweet variety familiar toWesterners and generally of high quality. Notehowever that un­popped corn is poorly sortedfrom popped and indiscriminately biting downon one of these kernels may cost you a dentalfilling. Look for gallivanting trolleys with bagsof popcorn hanging from their sides. Where:often based near the post office on riverside inthe evening but also around town. Price: R500for the small and R1000 for the large bag.Duck Embryos: strictly for the culinaryadventurous S.E. Asia traveler, or expats whohave lost the plot entirely, an un­hatchedduckling is boiled in its shell and eaten with aspoon. The duckling should be sufficientlyformed so as to be el dente. Where: on the oldbridge road and on the Kep road just past theTwo Cows intersection. Price: R1500.Bar­B­Qued Squid: dried small squid arestacked and suspended from the sides ofperegrinating trolleys where they resembledecks of cards with tentacles or somethingfrom a low budget SCI FI movie. Chock full ofhigh tensile sea­foody flavour, your chosensquid are served for takeaway, lightly toastedover charcoal with a chili dipping sauce. Anexcellent spicy beef jerky is often sold from thesame trolley. Where: often based on theriverside strip but also on touring trolleysaround town. Price: R1000 to R2000 per serve.Steamed Sweet Corn: Look for the darkyellow variety as this is generally sweetwhereas the white variants only function seemsto be the alleviation of constipation byingesting a mega hit of dietary fiber. Corn issteamed and served hot with a coating of

“butter” which is actually margarine, egg andsugar mix – much more palatable than theingredients suggest. Bar­B­Qued white corn isalso everywhere should your constipationprove resistant to the steamed version. Where:often based on the riverside strip but alsodrifting. Price: R1300 per cob but slightfluctuations according to seasonal availability.Grilled Beef: small portions of sliced,seasoned beef on a bamboo skewer cookedover charcoal and served with shredded sweetand sour green papaya with a dipping jus.Where: make­shift stall near the FM building at

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Never Smile at a CrocodileAlan goes in search of thePot's rarest lunch.

With increasinglyfrequent reports ofcrocodile sightingsin and aroundKampot burninghis ears, X AceReporter HeadTeaser rousedhimself from amid­afternoonsnack of raw eelsand offal to investigate. In his guise of FatBastard he waddled on down to the riversidewhere, like a wet bag of river sludge, heplopped down at a local watering hole, ordereda mug of vaguely cold beer and waited to seewhat might be lurking in the fetid waters.After several hours the murky river was no lessfetid than the tepid beer in front of him. Hepassed the time and a lot of gas debating theGot feedback for us? post it here.www.facebook.com/KampotSurvivalGuide/

the 2000 Roundabout and promenading allaround Kampot. Price: R500 per stick.Bread: generally sold as baguettes in small,large and jumbo versions. An inexpensive andfilling way to overcome your cravings forWestern food and best bought in the morningsto guarantee freshness. Where: Look for theMan With No Shirt bakery about 50 metersdown the road from Epic Arts or a further 50meters along that road and round the corner toyour left ­ also sold in the market. Price: R500– R1000 – R1500 according to size.Sugarcane Juice: hand cranked or electricallypowered mangles are used to extract the juicefrom stalks of sugarcane and half a lime whichis then served over crushed ice ­ veryrefreshing. Iced black tea (Number 1 Brand)with lime juice and sugar is also excellent.Where: both inside and outside of the market orlook for the stacks of sugarcane and oftenbrightly painted mangles around town. Price:R1000 per glass.Coconuts: (Cocos nucifera) al fresco,nutritious refreshment in a portable andhygienic container. Where: everywhere aroundKampot – look for the stack of green coconutsoutside shops and stalls. Price: R1500Roasted Peanuts: small, highly flavouredpeanuts (Arachis hypogaea), roasted in the shelland often sold by Cham Muslim ladies whocircumambulate around Kampot carrying largealuminum basins of the legume on their heads.A larger variant is sold boiled in salted water inthe shell. Where: Circumambulating. Price:R1000 per serve.Cut Fruit Trolley: assorted peeled and slicedfruits behind glass on a traveling trolley.Where: often based on the riverside strip butalso migratory. Price: R500 ­ R1000 per serve.A general note: the prices quoted are the localknown base line prices at the time of writing(September 2011) and should be taken as aguide for what you should expect to pay.By Irvin S. KSG ACE Reporter.

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relative merits of Anchor, Angkor andCambodian drafts with happy­hour chasingpot­pats and slack jawed backpackers. All werewondering where the action was. The majorityopinion was that if in fact there ever was any,the action had packed up and movedelsewhere, possibly to the Bokor hill casino.Ever watchful, even in a stupor, the X ACEInvestigative reporter thought he spied a crocsashaying along the front. As usual, he wasonly half right. Closer investigation revealedthat what he saw was not a vicious seacrocodile trolling the front that had sent thebackpackers screaming away. What his bleary,half lidded eyes had spied was a passingKhmer woman out to watch the darling races inher stylish ensemble of fashionable floralpyjamas and a pair of over­sized neon greencrocs adorning her freshly pedicured feet.Obviously no reptologist, Head Teaser decidedto engage the services of someone morequalified to fathom the depths of the river. Thevery next day at the crack of noon he staggereddown to the aquatic centre where he knockedon the door of a pre­eminent river pirate ofsketchy reputation. The odour emanating fromthe crusty seaman sent Head Teaser’s headreeling. After paying a 2,000 Reil fine forfishing out of season he introduced himself tothe foul fisherman who sported a rakishreptilian grin and had a reputation for knowingthe river like the back of a jealous lady­boy’shand.“I used to think all these crocodile sightingswere a crock of shite,” wheezed the ancientmariner. “Ay matey there’s more shite in theriver than there are crocs, but nothin’ penicillinwon’t cure. Can’t say there are, but can’t saythere ain’t none neither. Seen one in thesummer of ’69 up at the Teuk Chhou zoo I did.

She was a big bugger too. Took me leg shedid.”At that point the old pirate twisted the woodenpeg below his left knee, removed it and pouredtwo perfectly made margaritas from the hiddencavity and to Head Teaser’s dismay downedboth in a single greedy swallow. “Locals all saythey ate the last croc ten years ago. It was a bigthree meter male they gutted for the partlydigested goat in its innards. It’s said theybarbequed both the buggers and enjoyed surfand turf for a week until the beer ran out.“The ancient mariner paused for effect and let

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out a sulphurous belch before continuing, “Iseen things I have. Some of ‘em would curdleyour cockles. Curdled mine they did. Not apretty sight according to the missus. But toanswer yer question, maybe the sea croc hasreturned. Then again could be tree trunks.”When asked if he had in fact seen a crocodilein the past year, the old seaman spat andwheezed, “Why do you think I haven’t been onthe river since last rainy season? There aresome giants out there. If ya ain’t afraid yashould be matey.”When asked if he was prepared to take HeadTeaser out on the river to hunt out one of thesemythical handbags with teeth, the ancientmariner declined by attacking the investigativereporter with his peg leg and a marlin spike.“Only one daft enough to try is that Belgianbloke up river. Just pay me the 1,000 Reil youpromised and git.”Feigning a fishing expedition into histhreadbare wallet, Head Teaser bolted out thedoor and into the suffocating heat before theold seaman could reattach his peg leg cummargarita dispenser to chase him. A waitingmoto­dop whisked him away and to one of theremaining watering holes that hadn’t bannedhim yet. In the murky darkness that he spiedsomeone who might help his quest.“Are you the Belgian?”“One of them…maybe…who wants to know?”the burly man asked in a threatening tone.“I’m an undercover investigative reporter forthe KSG. Surely you’ve heard of it?”“Don’t know, don’t care, don’t read. Now pissoff.” The threatening tone did not deter HeadTeaser.“I or rather my masters will pay you for yourservices.” He knew that was a lie as thepublisher was a notorious skinflint who wouldsooner cut off his left and only remaining

testicle than pay any of his minions for thefruits of their rum soaked labours.“Barman, what’s my tab running?” Theboatman enquired with a snarl.“Last time you ran out of here a hundredtwenty­six dollars and change Bub.”“Pay the man you fat bastard and I’ll do it,”belched the Belgian.With a deadline looming and a nasty publisherdemanding a gory article on killer crocs HeadTeaser knew he had no choice. It was pay or beflayed in the publishing game. So, with the lastof his counterfeit bills he paid off the sceptical

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but inebriated barman and exited the bar withthe very large Belgian.On the way to the boat dock they stumbledover what appeared to be a dozen or soportmanteaus, carryalls, and ladies purses withartistically applied slitted yellow eyes andreptilian grins. The Belgian kicked at one ortwo of them and snarled something in Flemish.Because of his years spent in hiding in theCongo Head Teaser had more than a passingacquaintance with the language and was able tocatch a few words. It sounded like the bigBelgian said something like, “Get back in theriver you poor excuses for luggage. We havework to do.”Astonished, Head Teaser watched as the‘luggage’ spouted legs and scurried off aheadof them, jumped into the river and transformedthemselves into logs. He was beginning to havean uneasy feeling about this assignment. Itcould have been the offal from the day before,

or it might have been because, against the lawsof hydrodynamics, the logs were movingupstream, keeping abreast of the small craft theBelgian had thrown him into.“All the local crocs are history,” slurred theferryman. “The new crocs on the block areAustralian sea crocs. Much bigger and far moredangerous after a schooner of Fosters. But chillman, you are safe with me.”Search and rescue efforts to locate the remainsof Fat Bastard have been called off for lack ofinterest and fear of crocodiles. The Belgianclaims the Ace reporter jumped from his boatand was last seen attempting to pry open whathe thought was an alligator bag containing thelost memoirs of Amelia Earhart.

By Alan HT KSG ACE Reporterand Fat Bastard.

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Ask LuckyAnswering your questionsabout living in Kampot.

Hate MailEvery month, the KSG receives an average of2000 items of hate mail, more than half ofwhich are delivered wrapped around a brickand thrown through a glass window of thehumpy that doubles as drug and alcohol denand the KSG head office. To date, it has beenKSG policy to ignore this as the editor’sgrandiose plan was the construction of aXanadu or ziggurat of Mesopotamianproportions with the accumulated bricks – suchwas his hubris. Hate mail was viewed – evenprovoked by being deliberately offensive– asall in all, just another brick in the wall.Inexorably, the KSG became a journalisticabattoir for sacred cows. Perched on hismountain of bricks and looking like MarlonBrando in drag, the editor would exhort hisreporters (over the incessant background soundof splintering glass) to find new targets toenrage under threat of cruel and inhumanpunishments. These included the withholdingof the Pastis ration and being forced to listen tothe music of The Carpenters. The slightestwhimper or sign of PC dissent in the ranks andthe editor would start humming the openingbars of We've Only Just Begun.But just when the hour was darkest, when therewere no more noble causes to belittle, no moreNGO’s to deride, no more minority groups todemean and the bottom of our Marianas Trenchof gutter journalism was in clear sight, theeditor had a fleeting alcohol­free epiphany.Some people say he had found God and others,that he had become God and still others thatGod had engaged him as a consultant.However what we journalists heard himproclaim from atop his Ararat of bricks was“Jesus Christ. It’s costing me one hundredtimes more to replace the broken windows thanthe bricks are worth!”And just like that, it was over. The new policywas simple: Print the Hate Mail – Stop theBricks.Over the coming issues, Lucky will print all672,523 items of Hate Mail that the KSG hasreceived to date. Here are the first five:

Dear KSG,I would like to take this opportunity to inform

you that I am suing you for $2,000,000 (twomillion) dollars. I used your “map” of Kampotand I got lost. Do not think that labeling it ‘NotA Map’ will save you in court as you havesubsequently stated …’but it should get youthere’. It didn’t and I have suffered egregiousemotional trauma as a consequence and myfaith in the integrity of the print media is intatters due to your journalistic malfeasance! Ihave read many outstanding travel guides.Yours was not one of them. See you in courtdogbreath.Dear putrescent, personality disordered pussbags,Epic fail KSG dudes. Your “magazine” is like,amazing crap man and naming it a “SurvivalGuide” is so “laughable” that I want to puke.Download a life you complete bunch ofdrunken born loosers. I don’t even really knowwhere to start telling you what is wrong withyour pathetic magazine and I haven’t even readit yet. I only arrived in Kampot last night and Iknow more about it and Cambodian historythan you guys and have started writing fifteenbooks about it already. Read more on my blogor I’ll Twitter your ass. Find me on Facebook.

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Dear criminally insane dystopian crackbabies,Is English your native tongue or is your entirestaff comprised of monkeys with typewriterspropping up the bar between puffs on a joint?I have been employed in the newspaperindustry for more than 800 years and I have tosay the KSG is the shittiest example ofmonochrome printed aspirant mediocrity I haveever had the gross misfortune to stumbleacross. I sneer at your layout and, at, your, use,of, commas – either too many or too few andthen applied with all the precision of confettiscattered at a lunatics wedding on a wet day.Jesus Wept! Spelling errors strut through yourguide like naked imbeciles with heliumballoons attached to their flaccid penises. I feltan increasing sense of nausea with the turningof each polluted page. I was a firm believer infreedom of speech and of the press (except foranything written by J.K. Rowling which ofcourse should be banned) until I attempted toread your magazine. You wouldn’t know goodjournalism if it came up and bit you on thebottom line and if you have even a shred ofhuman decency and care at all about Kampot;you will cease and desist from printing this

suppurating sebaceous cyst of a magazine.Dear crapulous mouth breathingreactionary Neanderthals,As a Kep resident, I have to ask, do you have aconscience or are you content to shamble kneedeep through the putrid sewer of your valuesystems never raising your jaundiced eyesabove the frosty can of Anchor beer clutched inyour simian paws? Don’t you know yourincessant Kep bashing causes untold mentalpain and anguish to the nice folks who livethere? Have you become complete strangers toniceness you illegitimate, brain damaged,crypto fascist Smurfs? Also, nobody is fooledwhen you write supposedly “informative”travel advice like ‘Kep has the crabs’ – theyknow you are smirking up your greasy,schoolboy sleeve because you don’t meandelicious, edible crustaceans do you. Rot inhell KSG bastards! My next letter through yourwindow won’t be wrapped around a brick –it’ll be wrapped around Stonehenge! By theway, have you ever considered using the DiscoInferno sans serif font in your magazine?Dear morally bankrupt passive­aggressivetroglodytes,This magazine should not be casuallydiscarded after reading it. It should be hurledaway with great force before reading it!Your magazine does measureless harm,perhaps more harm than any other piece ofprinted material in the complete history of theuniverse (with the possible exception of thecollected works of J.K. Rowling) and I say thisas a mother of nine children! It’s not just thatthe magazine is despicable and evil (although itis both of these things) it is also an abominableamoral atrocity! Your ethics committee is notasleep at the wheel it is positively catatonic!You post colonial trailer trash detritus aredestroying Kampot and its gentle ambiance andyou can only get away with your bowelmovement of a magazine because youcurrently have a print monopoly in Kampot! Ihave sent an SMS to Rupert Morlocksuggesting he relocate his News of the Worldoperations to Kampot! Then it will be game onKSG creeps! I am not a book burner by nature– and I abhor exclamation marks ­ but I havemade it my sole mission in life to burn everycopy of the KSG I can find and if I discoverwhere you live, I will burn you on top ofthem!!By Irvin S KSG ACE Reporter.

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POTTED HISTORYFran delves sideways into to themurky history of the Pot.

Confucius Li Wong is our local historian;Kampot born Khmer/Chinese his familytentacles also extend into Burma, Japan andHong Kong. There is other there too but that isstrictly off limits and over the years we hadforged an unlikely alliance.About a year ago Confucius and I were havinga quiet drink when I asked him if he had anyproof of the improbable legend of such a beingas a French Gentleman. Confucius, his greeneyes screwed in deep thought, absently strokedhis long silver beard as he debated his answer.After a long silence he quietly stated that itwasn't a fable.The man he said was called Captain Pierre dela Granville the first Fenchman to come toKampot predating the Colonialists by manyyears and that the key to this rewrite ofconventional history was salt, indeed, Kampotsalt. He continued to enlarge stating thatKampot had always been quietly prosperouswith the Hong Kong Chinese trading here forcenturies bringing medicine and fabrics in andtaking out salt, animal parts, shark's fin andmore than the occassional Khmer girl.Our gentleman was born in Paris in the secondhalf of the 18th. Century the only offspring of awealthy banker and a minor Portugese royalmother. A child prodigy who by the age of 11had exhausted his tutors and at 14 achieved aTripos from the Sorbonne in Languges,Astronomy and Science. He was commissionedinto the French Navy where his talents shone.Brilliant and fearless by his twentieth year wasthe youngest captain in the fleet revered by his

officers and loved by the lower deck; hisfighting exploits the fodder of wardrooms aswere the stories of his other conquests.His capacity for language did not go unnoticedand Fleet Command sent him to Cathay todiscreetly examine the expansion of Frenchinterests. In the multicultural society of HongKong he flourished, worked hard, played hardand listened intently. In few months heconquered not only the mindset of the orientalfemale but also Cantonese both written andspoken. He spent countless hours with thecaptains of the trading junks and collected orcopied every chart they possessed.It was here he was to make the lifetimefriendship of Shetland Lu McVie. Son of onethe minor Taipans his mother, Mai Lu, thedaughter of a Shan warlord. It was here alsothat the pair of them conspired a plan ofawesome entreprenurial proportions and it allrevolved around a town called Kampot in anunknown land.Pierre returned to France where he made anacclaimed presention to the French GeographicSociety. He also made a totally unacclaimedpresentation to the French Admiralty which canonly be judged by their acceptance of hisservice resignation and his purchase of thesound frigate, at scrap prices, which had beenhis last command. He did not tarry long inParis, just time enough to collect crew and tomake his formal au revoirs to the many officesof Fleet Command. A famous captain hisrequests for detailed specifications for his shipand its armaments were met with alacrity.They sailed for Lisboa where the ship wasstripped to a shell; even the pig iron ballasttaken out to be replaced by eight pumpable1500 gallon bilge tanks. The cannon wereremoved and the gunports became small strongglass windows below a raised top deck. The

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result of this was an unarmed vessel faster andlighter than anything afloat. She flew Portugesecolours and was renamed Puta Do Mar andwhen she sailed her holds were crammed withweaponry and the ballast tanks brimming withfresh water, red wine and brandy.It was a fast passage and three months later,navigating by Chinese charts, Capt. Pierremade his way up the Kampot estuary anddropped anchor in the river roads adjacent to ashoreside spring. Around this he built asubstantial three sided thatched structure whichbecame a base to be used for many decades.The navigational coordinates entered in the logclearly indicate the site was, what is now, theBokor Lodge.Pierre stayed in Kampot for six months. Manygreat Khmer war canoes came and he tradedhis cargo for rubies, emeralds and gold andthere also came an oceangoing Chinese junkcaptained by Shetland McVie; it was a longand boisterous reunion.Shetland brought two gifts for Pierre. One wasa holdful of raw opium and the other the youngmarried couple Molly Mai Li McVie andCharles Wong, respectively his elder daughterand the eurasian son of his Compradore. Inexchange Pierre presented Shetland with twochests of blueprints. So it was in Kampot adynasty was created that exists today.In celebration a huge feast followed lubricatedby the depleted tanks of the Puta Do Mar. Itwas at this banquet that Pierre raised a largepole on which were affixed the Tricoleur, alarge marked Chinese chart and the Letters ofMarque supplied by the French Admiralty. In awine fuelled speech the lands which are nowCambodia, Vietnam and Laos were declared asFrench Protectorates. The rest, as they say, ishistory. Our captain returned to France a hero

along with ten of Kampot's most beautifulmaidens and a ship ballasted by 50 tons of dutyfree mashed opium suspended in Kampot brine.A grateful nation bequeathed him an estate inthe Parisian sub­district of Monmatre wherewith his ten ladies he was to live the rest of hisdays. Rich beyond belief he entrusted hisfinances to Molly Li who founded a bankcalled Union Kam whilst Charles ran the estateand his various businesses.Across the other side of the world ShetlandMcVie, in exchange for the the contents of thetwo chests, secured the sole trading rights tothe secretive lands of the Japans. In the yearsthat followed his became the most dominant ofthe Hong Kong houses.There is of course much, very much, more tothis story than these few lines permit. Pierreand Shetland were to live long and full lives;Shetland was buried at sea whilst the ashes ofPierre and successively his ladies were interredin a small pagoda styled mausoleum in a localgraveyard. His Last Will and Testament was asimple statement of integrity passingeverything to Molly and Charles but ensuringthe financial wellbeing of his ten devoted andloved Khmer girls and their extended families.To sceptics of this small slice of Kampothistory please consider how ChamolPharmaceuticals became the huge multinationalcorporation that it is today. Failing that go on­line and view the published accounts of thebiggest and most secretive private merchantbank in the world. The Union Kam balancesheet lists only three fixed assets. These aretheir offices in Paris, the offices in Hong Kongand the Municipal Cemetery of Monmatre.By Uncle Fran. KSG ACE Reporterand Official Distorian.

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Learn some useful KhmerAn introduction to the language.

Knowing a few phrases in Khmer always earnssmiles and nods of approval from locals aswell as crusty expatriates who are fluent in theCambodian language. Unlike Thai orVietnamese, Khmer is not a tonal language andis therefore not difficult to master. As a basicguide, Khmer has 87 vowels – 43 of which arepronounced as the letter a (a=apple) and 39pronounced as the letter e (e=egg). Theremaining 5 vowels have no equivalent soundin any of the Indo­European languages and areeither silent, useless or can be safely ignored.There are only 2 consonants, the letter p(p=pastrami) and the letter z which can bepronounced as either zed (female) or zee(male) according to the gender of the personspeaking or being spoken to. Grammaticalstructure is simplicity itself with sentencesfollowing the format verb­verb­verb­adverb­verb (e.g. go, go, go quickly go) ­ exceptwhere the past tense is indicated. In this casethe structure is reversed or the consonant zedis added to the end of the sentence where thespeaker is female or transsexual or at leastcommitted to a sex change operation. Thefuture tense is universally indicated by theinclusion (and therefore the absence) of asilent vowel at the beginning of the sentence.Correct pronunciation of the 82 audible a and evowel sounds can present a challenge as whilethere are no tonal inflections, subtle changes inmeaning are conveyed by the volume withwhich the letter is said, the age and status ofthe person speaking, the ambient temperatureand the proximity to a Buddhist festival..Generally, the safest practice for a novice is tosay all a and e sounds as loudly as possible,bow or genuflect repeatedly while speakingand trust that meaning is construedcontextually. We at the KSG have put togethersome of the more commonly used Englishphrases with a Latinized phonetic Khmer (andtherefore more vowels and consonants)translation to help get you started.Khmer: Nis thlay Australie cab plonkHeathcliffe awt tay nu­anceEnglish: This Australian Cabernet­Sauvignonwine is dark and brooding but lacks subtlety.

Khmer: Anglais yeay gullible yeay K’maisame­sameEnglish: The English word “gullible” is theonly word spelled and pronounced the same inthe Khmer language.Khmer: Khnum DaewooTico cheeh awt tayLiberace bling blingEnglish: My Daewoo Tico lacks performance,style and street creditability.Khmer: Khnum jang baan Hummer tomprahok sa art arnie term in atorEnglish: I want a Hum Vee vehicle so I can bea big cheese like the lovely ArnoldSchwarzeneggerKhmer: Nis thlay trad k’mai nuptial MilliVanilli tom­tom bose ear Ow! Ow! AngkorEnglish: This is a traditional Khmer weddingusing fake 200,000W Bose speakers that havebeen in my family since Angkorian timesKhmer: Nis thlay trad krama ot sa’art same­same Ernest Borgnine. Puoomann Christiand’Or?English: This is bad krama. Wearing it makesme look like the actor Ernest Borgnine. Howmuch for one made by Christian d’Or?Khmer: Srey? Lady Gaga katoey massaanxiety khnum c dos runEnglish: The artist Lady Gaga is ofquestionable gender and I must respectfullydecline a massage from him/herKhmer: Loi klie same­same Imelda Marcos.Loi tic­tic khnum WMD pa’sar Imelda Marcoshumpy.English: These shoes are too expensive. Giveme a discount or I will unleash Weapons ofMass Destruction on your shoe stall.

By Irvin S. KSG ACE Reporter.

Found something not listed, tell us here.

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Projects & Voluntary Work...There are many ways you can spend your timedoing good in Kampot, listed below are a fewNGO's and projects that could do with yourhelp, either by donating or volunteering.Epic Arts Café. The place to be if you have asweet tooth or have a liking for good coffee,run by and for the disabled, it helps! So getdown there. They also have a newperformance centre and workshops near thefriendship monument, (the one with the guns)check the cafe for further details.Kampot Traditional Music School. Pop inand check them out, Khmer music and dance isnot all karaoke based and some is really good,so is the dance so check them up and bookyourself a performance.Sisters II / Heritage Orphanage. Cafe fareand internet in one building, breakfasts, cakesand sandwiches to feast on whilst doing youremail. The cafe funds a small orphanage nearto the Olympic stadium, so drop by and helpsupport the kids.Kep Gardens Association is a non­profit,independent project established by Australiansto provide education and training in English,hospitality, mechanical and civil engineering,computing and farming skills as well assponsor ongoing higher education through ourEducational Scholarship Fund for the Khmerpeople of Kep. Australians and Cambodiansworking together.Prek Thnout Community. Save Cambodia'sWildlife started this project back in 2007, it isnow running nicely and offers villagehomestay visits and day trips. Also trekking tolocal falls, rattan furniture production and boattrips to see dolphins. It's 30km towards Snookbut it's best to check with SCW first on 088902 2099.Chumkriel Language School (CLS) is aCambodian operation striving to provideaccessible education and assistance to the localcommunity. CLS requests a minimumplacement of one week and requires allvolunteers to be aged 18 years and [email protected] you know of any other NGO's or projectsthat deserve a mention, please do let us know,we really want to expand this section.

Things you didn't know about Kampot.1. Kampot led the Cambodian space raceduring the 1950's and 60's as Bokor Hill wasused for test launchings of their experimental“Woo­ung Gao Soo Gom­lung” rockets.2. Kampot changed its name shortly afterKep was named, it was re­named specificallyto avoid any confusion with Kep, the name isderived from two words “Kamp” and “Not”.3. Bokor Hill used to be a proper mountainwith a pointy top, but the French stole it.4. In 1967 Kampot FC toured Europe on anextensive and unbeaten tour.5. Kampot was originally built around asystem of canals akin to Venice, sadly due toneglect these waterways have silted and dried,only to be seen during exceptionally heavyrains.6. Bokor Hill is still an active volcano,difficult to see during the wet season but allthrought the dry times you will see smokerising from all round the hill.7. Kampot City is larger than the City ofLondon, in both size and population.

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Transport...We at the KSG apologise for our lack ofdetailed travel info, there is a reason for this,it's because this is a guide for Kampot, it'spurpose is to give you ideas to stay, so we'rebuggered if we're going to help you get away!Tuk Tuk. The first choice of transport thesedays, most of Kampot and the surrounding areacan be accessed by Tuk Tuk in all weathers,popular trips are down to Kep, mangroves,pepper plantation and caves, or up to therapids, zoo and beach.Moto. These guys can make your stay good,using their translation skills you will exploremore. Find them all around town but the bestspeaking ones hang between the traffic circleand the bus stop.Moto Rental. Either your guesthouse can sortit out or you can pop on down to the shops andpick your own, make sure you are happy withit and check it has lights if you plan to ride atnight. Wherever you go be careful, especiallyof the cows.Bicycle Rental. Some guesthouses offer rentalof bikes, mainly basic bone shakers so don't gettoo excited, although some tour companieshave mountain bike rental too, so use the shittybike to find a nice one.Bus/Taxi. The easiest way to sort this isthrough your guesthouse, they earn a smallamount of commission for this that covers theirtelephone costs etc, if you are a really tight gityou could go down the bus stop and haggle.Night Busses. We do not reccommend them,you won't get the sleep you think you will andtherefore will miss a day you could haveenjoyed, they are also quite dangerous.

Some Useful Numbers...ABC. 0972560585Bar Red GH. 077997096Bart the Boatman. 092174280Blissful GH. 012848390Bluestar Real Estate. 012611317Bodhi Villa GH. 012728884Bokor Mt Lodge. 033932314Borey Bokor I GH. 092978168Bungalow Kampot River. 011523627Cafe Expresso. 092388736Diamond Hotel 0336300800Epic Arts Cafe. 092922069Farm Link. 0333902354Ganesha GH. 092724612Green House. 0888863071Indochine. 092762933Kampot GH. 012512931Kampot Pie & Ice Cream Palace. 099657826Kampot Riverside Hotel. 012351764Kampot River View GH. 012821570Kampot Survival Guide. 092724720Kep Gardens Ass. 015653317Kepler's Books. 012306410Lee & Pop's. 016592735Little Garden Bar GH. 012427572Long Villa GH. 092251418Magic Sponge. 017946428Mea Culpa GH. 012504769Oh Neil's. 015207790Olly's Place. 092605837Orchid GH. 092226996Paris GH. 033932330Pepper GH. 017822626Pizza 36. 0972204169Rikitikitavi GH. 012235102Salt + Pepper. 099219004Say Sabok. 012927897Srey Mom Cafe. 012987457Ta. Eng GH. 012330058Tiny Kampot Pillows. 0977666094Tuk tuk, Chak kan. 012456935Utopia GH. 0977560164Villa Vidici GH. 089290714

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ABC. French run bar in the place of the old Honey bar.Aiming for the musically minded with events and jamnights every Saturday, offering unique cocktails, Frenchstyle snacks till 9pm and standard bar wares, closedWednesday.Bar­Red. Under new management, English run latenight bar and guest rooms just off the front. Cambodiadraught beer at all day happy hour prices + all usual barwares, late night sports TV, free WIFI. Rooms have fan,TV, en­suite, English and Khmer spoken.Blissful Guest House. French/Brit run bar restaurantand guest house in the heart of town, nice gardens andchill areas, draught beer and wide selection of food,some cooked in a wood fired oven. Rooms $5 – 10,dorm $2, fan, en suite, garden, WIFI, English andKhmer spoken.Bodhi Villa. Aus run bar restaurant and guest house onthe west bank, riverside seating, pontoon, pool table,chill out atmosphere with late night opening. Rooms,bungalows and floating rooms $4 – 8, fan, river view,water sports, English and Khmer spoken.Bokor Mountain Lodge. Kiwi run bar restaurant andhotel on the front, classical colonial architecture with alarge river frontage, great sunset views, internationalmenu and well stocked bar. Rooms $35 ­ 45+, AC, HW,fan, TV, en suite, river view, WIFI, English & Khmerspoken.Bungalow Kampot River. New Khmer run barrestaurant and guest house on the west bank of the river,riverside bungalows $6, fan, river view, WIFI, Englishand Khmer spoken.Cafe Espresso. Australian style breakfast cafe.Specialty coffee, roasted on site, ground fresh, bakedgoods, home made condiments, good vegetarian options& daily lunch specials. Just around the corner from epicarts cafe. open 8am till late afternoon free wifi.Cozy Elephant Guest House. French/Khmer run guesthouse near the taxi stand. Rooms $4 ­ 12, dorm $2.50,AC, HW, fan, en suite, WIFI, free bicycle rental,English, French and Khmer spoken.Diamond Hotel. Bar, Restaurant and hotel just off thenew bridge road, rooms $20­40, TV, AC, HW, en suite,English and Khmer spoken.Epic Arts Cafe. Open from 7am till 6pm offeringbreakfasts, lunches, coffee and cakes. Run by and forpeople with disabilities, they also have a performancearts centre, pop in to learn more.Ganesha Riverside Eco Resort. German/Khmer runbar, restaurant and accommodation on a lost loop of theriver, boat trips and activities on site. Rooms $6 ­ 45,English, German and Khmer spoken.Green House. Donkey/Brit run bar, restaurant and guesthouse up the river. Riverside bungalows with greatviews of sun rise/set. Bungalows $10­20, fan etc,hammocks $3, English, Khmer and French spoken.Indochine. Newly Re­opened Brit run bar restaurantjust off the front. Western and asian food, $1 beers,free WIFI, good music with a chill out room upstairs,Khmer and English spoken.Kampot Riverside Hotel. New Aus Khmer run hoteland cocktail lounge on the northern front. AC, HW,TV, WIFI, fridge, tea/coffee facilities, en suite. Rooms$20 ­ 45, due to open soon(ish).Hour Kheang Guest House. New Khmer run bar,

restaurant and guest house opposite the old market.Rooms $7 ­ 20, AC, HW, Fan, TV, WIFI, en suite,English, Chinese and Khmer spoken.Jam Tic. Set on the slopes of Phnom Ker wirh stunningviews of Kep and Bokor, rooms $3, AC, HW, Spa, ensuite, swimming pool, free moto & boat rental, bar &restaurant, English, French, Greek and Khmer spokenbut not understood.Kampocchino. Brit run coffee lounge and bar. Coffeesnacks and general bar fodder in a comfortable setting,draught Cambodia beer, sports on tv, English and Khmerspoken.Kampot Guest House. Rooms $5 – 20, AC, HW, TV,fan, en suite, garden, bike rental, bar & restaurant, WIFI,English and Khmer spoken.Kampot Pie and Ice Cream Palace GH. NewCanadian/Khmer run restaurant and guest house just offthe northern front. Offering all manner of sweet thingsand some hearty snacks. Rooms $6 ­ $25, AC, HW, TV,en suite, WIFI, English and Khmer spoken.Long Villa Guest House. Rooms $6 – 13, AC, HW, TV,fan, en suite, bar & restaurant with varied menu, WIFI,English and Khmer spoken.Little Garden Bar. Rooms $10 – 20, AC, HW, TV, fan,en suite, garden, bar & restaurant, WIFI, English andKhmer spoken.Madi's House. Khmer run bar restaurant on the front,pool table, cocktails and a full menu with excellentsunset views. hosting live music events with lateopening.Magic Sponge. English/Khmer run bar, guest housewith minigolf course and beer garden. DVD lounge,

Bars, Restaurants and Rooms.

Whats gone or moved.Akashi Cafe ­ GoneAlaska Super Club ­ GoneBlank Canvas ­ Became Olly's placeBlue Dragon ­ Became Rusty KeyholeBlue Mountain ­ Became Rheaj's BurgerBonkors ­ Became Blue Ray and thats GoneBokor M't Club ­ Became Marco PoloBokor View Hotel ­ GoneCoco House ­ Became Rusty Keyhole 2Comfortably Numb ­ Became Bar­RedGreen man ­ Closed at presentHoney Bar ­ Became ABCIke Bar ­ GoneJasmine ­ Became FrangipaniKampot Interact ­ Became K'Pot SouvenirsKiri Guesthouse ­ GoneLe Niam Bay ­ GoneLe Soleil d'Or ­ Closing soon, so we were todl?Lucci Food ­ GoneMarco Polo ­ became Bokor M't LodgeMearly Chender ­ GoneMoon's Guesthouse ­ GonePiggies ­ Moved out of town and then back inRheaj's Burger ­ Became WunderbarSalt n Pepper ­ Wholesale onlySouthern Cross Motel ­ GoneSundowner Tavern ­ Became Salt + PepperWhats Hot in Kampot ­ Gone

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Pool table, Table football, Board Games. Rooms $8 ­$20, dorm $4, AC, WiFi, HW ensuite, fan, bike rental,English and Khmer spoken.Mea Culpa. Irish run bar restaurant and guest housebehind the Governors residence, wood fired pizza ovenand nice bar in a large secluded garden. Rooms $20 ­ 25,AC, HW, TV, DVD, WIFI, en suite, garden, bar &restaurant, parking, English and Khmer spoken.Natural Restaurant and Guest House. Khmer run barrestaurant and guest house on the river just north of thenew bridge. Over the river eating and Khmer stylestilted chalets. Rooms $15+, AC, HW, TV,Oh Neil's. Irish run late night bar next to Bokor MtLodge. Standard bar fare and tunes in a hole betweenthe walls setting. Irish themed and manned with foodavailable, English and Khmer spoken.Olly's Place. Belgian Bar, Restaurant and guesthouse onthe river, rooms and bungalows $8­10, fan, nets etc.Wind surfing and lessons, paddle boards for rent.English, Dutch, French, Thai and Portuguese spokenOrchid Guest House. Rooms and bungalows $5 – 15,AC, HW, TV, fan, en suite, garden, bike rental, tours,boat trips, bar & restaurant, English & Khmer spoken.Paris Guest House. Khmer run guest house one roadback from the front. Rooms $5 – 15, AC, HW, TV, fan,en suite, English and Khmer spoken.Pepper Guest House. Rooms $5 ­ 15, AC, HW, TV,fan, en­suite, soon to have a bar and restaurant, garden,parking, English, French and Khmer spoken.Pizza 36. Brit/Khmer run bar and restaurant just off thefront. Fresh US style pizza and pasta delivered free fromthe Kampot Playboys, the Pot's favotite band.Rikitikitavi. British/Dutch run rooftop bar restaurantand guesthouse on the front, high end eating and a goodselection cocktails and malt's. Rooms $30 – 35 incbreakfast, AC, HW, TV, DVD, en suite, bar &restaurant, English, Dutch and Khmer spoken.Rusty Keyhole. Brit/Khmer run bar restaurant on thefront, sports tv, BBQ western and Khmer food, Englishand Khmer spoken.Say Sa Bok. French/Khmer run bar restaurant on thefront, early happy hours, full Khmer and western menuand great Khmer coffee.Sisters II. Cafe fare and internet in one building,breakfasts, cakes and sandwiches. The cafe funds asmall orphanage near to the Olympic stadium, so dropby and help support the Heritage Orphanage kids.Srey Mom Cafe. Khmer run cafe opposite the 2000monument. Daytimes, Khmer food at local prices.Evenings, Srey Mom's famous Indian and westernfoods, curries, Pies, Pizzas, burgers and more. Openfrom 5am daily till 10pm, closed Sunday evening.Star Inn. New bar restaurant on the river offeringseafood, Karaoke and hostess service.Tiny Kampot Pillows Shop. Hand made pillows,cushions, pillowcases and covers as individual gifts orin commercial quantities. Wide range of fabrics tochoose from. Small orders usually completed within 24hours. Also selling krama items, photos, postcards etcall made in Kampot. Shop at the 2000 Roundabout.Ta Eng Guest House. Rooms $4 – 8, fan, TV, en suite,bike rental, garden, restaurant, English, French andKhmer spoken.

Utopia. German/Khmer run bar restaurant and guesthouse up the river, just before Tek Chheu and the Zoo(8km ish), stunning views along river in a total get awayfrom it all setting, great spot to stop on a river cruise orjust an amazing getaway place. Rooms & Bungalows $6– 25, fan, en suite, river view, swimming, English andKhmer spoken.Villa Vedici. Dutch run bar, restaurant and guest house2km up the river. Bungalows $25, fan, TV, DVD, fridge,WIFI, swimming pool, boat trips, water sports, kitesurfing, river view, en suite, garden, Dutch, English andKhmer spoken.NOTE. Listings were correct once, they are notcontractually binding so do not rely on them. Facilitieslisted do not apply to all rooms, i.e. you won't find anAC room for $4. All places should be able to booktickets and tours and offer some travel advice.

Kampot Survival GuideCreation...This guide was written by real Kampot residents,people who live in and love Kampot. It was createdusing Linux Mint Debian, ScribusNG, Openoffice,Inkscape and The Gimp. All these applications areOpen Source and are freely available on the internet.The Team...Steve J ­ Director, layout, basic guide, maps n sales.Irvin S ­ Director, wordsmith, food guide, agony aunt.Alan HT ­ Under­cover X Ace Reporter, non factualconsultant, poster model and present Pot­pat at last.Uncle Fran ­ Financial Probability Consultant,Official Distorian, Pig farmer and Ace Reporter.Obtaining Copies...New Issues are released every three months, copiesare delivered to advertising businesses in Kampot,they are also sent to PP, Snook and Kep.All of the past issues are available for download onour blog site in pdf, epub, and mobi formats.http://kampotsurvivalguide.blogspot.comAdvertising...Contact Steve on 092724720 or the email addressbelow. The next issue due is in September and thedeadline 20th August. Advert sizes are, banner138mm W 48mm H, quarter 69mm W 97mm H, half138mm W 97mm H, artwork should be submitted ineither .jpg .eps .png .pdf or .tiff and be of the highestpossible quality. Sorry we cannot accept .doc or .docxfiles, ever!!!Thanks to...Many thanks go out to the sponsors and submitterswho make this rag possible, not forgeting my manyeditors who make it possible for me to be understood.Contact us...Submissions, corrections, classifieds, advertisingrequests and threats should be directed to thepublisher, if you can find him or emailed [email protected] you could be gay about it and post on the LonelyPlanet forums (thorntree), like oldted did.

Bars, Restaurants and Rooms.

Page 32: Kampot Survival Guide Issue 23

This is not a map, it's not even close to being a map, but it should get you there.