July 2016

The EyeBeach, Village + Urban Living in OaxacaJuly, 2016 Issue 59FREE

Jane

The Eye is a monthly all-English magazine that is distributed throughout the state of

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Editor: Jane BauerCopy Editor: Deborah Van Hoewyk

Web Goddess: Erin Vig

Writers: Jan Chaiken, Marcia Chaiken, Julie Etra, Brooke Gazer, David Herstle Jones, Leigh Morrow, Carole Reedy, Dardan Surring, Alvin Starkman,

Kary Vannice

Cover Photo: Getty Images

Photography/Art: VariousDistribution: Renee Biernacki

Advertising Assistant: Casilda Mendoza LopezLayout: Jane Bauer

Opinions and words are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of The Eye.

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[email protected] love the chaos of this country. The contrasts of old

Iworld tradition and modern conveniences. Driving through small villages with ramshackle dwellings only to see satellite dishes perched on metal roofing, kids without shoes playing on cell phones,

ladies in their Sunday best eating roadside tacos. I find a beauty and comfort in these dichotomies, perfect examples of the human condition.

The world isn’t always as black and white as our social problems reported in the news would have us believe. Rather our coexistence is a landscape of grey with splashes of color depending on where you are looking from, position determines perspective.

In the past couple of months there has been an overdose of chaos and conflict. The proposed dolphinarium to be built in Chahue, Huatulco, by Dolphin Discovery received lots of grassroots opposition with a petition circulated through social media that garnered over 33000 signatures (note that many of the signatures came from people who could not even point to Huatulco on a map). Despite a rally held May 7th in Huatulco, it looks like the dolphinarium will be built. Despite the opposition, many I spoke to saw the proposed dolphinarium as a positive economic move for Huatulco with more job creation and tourism.

There was also the protest by the teachers of Seccion 22 which took the form of roadblocks throughout various parts of the state. Lack of transport led to gasoline shortages, each day there were fewer and fewer cars on the road until Huatulco began to feel like some sort of ghost town version of Oz. Further down the coast Juchitán became completely paralyzed by the protests with small outbreaks of violence and a man who died en route to the hospital because the ambulance couldn’t get through.

What does any of this have to do with this month’s theme of museums? Museums are our temples to human suffering and conflict. They house the works of the great thinking minds that are attempting to make sense of our human condition. To move us away from black and white and the ideals that we hold onto so tightly, believing they define us as good our bad. Our ideals define the complexity of our human experience - it’s a gray matter and art can show us the splashes of color from many different sides.

See you next month!

Perhaps it's good for one to suffer. Can an artist do anything if he's happy? Would he ever want to do

anything? What is art, after all, but a protest against the horrible inclemency of life?

Aldous Huxley

The Eye 4

In This IssueMuseo Pantaleón Panduro By Julie EtraPage 5

Off with Their HeadsBy David Herstle JonesPage 6

Oaxaca's “Vintage” Chango Mezcalero(Clay Monkey) Mezcal BottlesBy Alvin StarkmanPage 8

The Museum of Contemporary Art in OaxacaBy Marcia Chaiken and Jan ChaikenPage 10

Rattlesnakes and ScorpionsBy Kary VannicePage 11

It's All Latin America, But…Viva La Diferencia! By Carole ReedyPage 12

Eternal Life in GuanajuatoBy Leigh MorrowPage 13

More Than AntiquityBy Brooke GazerPage 14

Copper Canyon Train Trip By Dardan SurringPage 16

EDITORIAL PAGE 3EVENTS CALENDAR PAGE 18In Oaxaca City, The Eye is now available at Amate Books.

www.TheEyeHuatulco.com

The Eye 5

If o n e g o e s t o TripAdvisor, or is planning a trip to Tlaquepaque that includes museums,

you will find considerable confusion between two ceramic museums. The R e g i o n a l C e r a m i c s Museum (Museo Regional de Cerámica) is neither a co l l ec t ion o f reg iona l ceramics nor a museum, at least as of my last visit in 2016. At that time there was an exhibit of leather 'canvases' or 'paintings', interesting but not ceramic, and a food festival in the courtyard. This museum has a small gift shop and is located in the historic district.

Then there is the Museo Pantaleón Panduro located a few blocks north and west of the church, located at Prisciliano Sánchez 191, Centro, San Pedro Tlaquepaque, Jalisco., Mexico. This is one of the finest collections, if not the finest, of Mexican ceramic art in the world. It includes pieces dating from the mid 1980's until 2015, representing the most skilled artisans from eight states including Oaxaca, Jalisco, Chihuahua, Puebla, and Mexico. My husband and I were there the morning of Palm Sunday, 15 minutes after its opening at 10:00, and we were the only visitors. Admission was free. Curator Maestra Karla Veronica Juaregul Quintero was most helpful and enthusiastic about this 'maravilla', and we bought two copies of an exquisite book about the museum and the collection. She explained that the museum had been closed for a while and had been remodeled but with support of the local government had recently re-opened.

In 1995, the Municipal Government of Tlaquepaque created a gallery in the chapel of El Refugio to display award-winning pieces but it was not until October 24, 1996, that the creation of the Museum “Panteleón” was approved for their exhibit. Prior to this date the winning entries were exhibited at the Jalisco Regional Museum of Ceramics (described above). Every year the collection expands with new pieces, now with over 500 pieces reflecting a wide variety of techniques, firing temperatures, glazes, textures, etc., but all are winners of annual nationwide ceramic competitions. Subjects are highly varied, from ornate árboles de la vida (Tree of Life) to dioramas representing aspects of Mexican life (including the production of ceramics), to bowls, platters, and sculptures. I would not describe the pieces as 'pottery' as that would not do them justice. Although methodologies varied widely, there was little interpretive material in the displays. However the pieces are beautifully laid out, room after delightful room, with good lighting.

At the entrance to the museum is a display of its namesake, Panteleón Panduro (1847 - 1909). A native son of San Pedro Tlaquepaque, prior to his career as a sculptor, he was a brick-maker in a local factory. This self-taught artist began with clay busts and portraits of people around him. His skills were rapidly recognized and locals clamored to have their image captured in 30-minute sittings, earning him the nickname of "El Brujo", The Wizard. He sculpted portraits of a myriad of characters including politicians, bullfighters, police, and circus performers.

Upon his death he left his legacy and workshop to his seven children, led by son Raymundo, and carried on by Raymundo's children, Juan and Honorato, who also dedicated their lives to creating clay portraits. Among their works are Jackie and John F. Kennedy, Queen Elizabeth, Lyndon Johnson, and the presidents of Mexico. These can be seen at the entrance to the museum, a great introduction to an unforgettable museum. Joy.

Museo Pantaleón Panduro By Julie Etra

The Eye 6

UPDATE June 21: I want to express my full support for the eloquent words of Lila Downs:“Violence provokes more violence. Why provoke with confrontation and repression? If we have the same

preoccupations: better education, respect toward students, respect toward teacher, respect toward life and society. Corruption needs to be eliminated in all areas including senators, union leaders, presidents and

politicians that don’t accept an anti-corruption reform and accept to be bribed.”

“We are teaching our kids to resolve problems with violence and corruption. I know that we can change things using other ways. I have faith in the intelligence and heart of my pueblo.”

Off with Their Heads

Oaxaca, one of the most wonderful places in the world, continues to bewilder.

The almost nonstop teacher protests in the city and throughout southern Mexico over the past ten years are inconceivable to those who do not understand the situation, complicated to those who do.

I’m no expert. I’m someone who loves Oaxaca trying to make sense of the situation. I’ve traveled there every year for the past ten, on and off before that. I love the people, the food, the culture, and the city.

First, some history from the website that accompanies Lynn Stephen's book We Are the Face of Oaxaca: “A massive uprising against the Mexican state of Oaxaca began with the emergence of the Popular Assembly of the Peoples of Oaxaca (APPO) in June 2006. A coalition of more than 300 organizations, APPO disrupted the functions of Oaxaca’s government for six months. It began to develop an inclusive and participatory political vision for the state. Testimonials were broadcast on radio and television stations appropriated by APPO, shared at public demonstrations, debated in homes and in the streets, and disseminated around the world via the Internet … The movement was met with violent repression. Participants were imprisoned, tortured, and even killed.”

From a review of Stephen's book: “Sounds like a familiar story—the people, poor and with minimal resources, asking for better treatment for themselves and their children brutally crushed by cruel, corrupt, unresponsive government. If only it were so easy.”

Subsequent to the 2006 demonstrations, the situation in Oaxaca progressed by fits and starts, led by the powerful teachers union. Optimism broke out in 2010 with the election of Governor Gabino Cué Monteagudo, the first non-PRI winning candidate in 80 years. Owing his election to the teachers (and also to well organized support from many Oaxacans living in the United States, particularly California), he agreed to begin implementing the teachers’ demands instead of the federal reforms.

Then, things changed. The PRI regained control of the federal government in 2012. Newly elected Mexican President Enrique Peña Nieto instituted an education reform as part of a set of 11 structural reforms implemented in his first 20 months of power. Cué Monteagudo shifted his position and announced that he would implement the federal reforms.

The teachers took to the streets again. Now, in 2016, they’ve ramped up their protests to a point where some are asking if Oaxaca is in for another major period of unrest like 2006. Two years ago, 43 students disappeared from a teacher training school at Ayotzinapa in the state of Guerrero. The case has yet to be solved. The disappearance of 43 students is horrible and the lack of an explanation inexcusable. The teacher protests escalated in response.

But, there is another side, a dark side, to this complex situation. Union leaders have been arrested on charges of corruption and money laundering and imprisoned by the federal government. For some, this is long past due. It is an open secret that the union leaders in Oaxaca are mafia thugs and that the local government has been incapable of dealing with the situation.

One observer wrote: “… the teachers union has closed down the zocalo (central park) of Oaxaca. Yesterday they blocked the main avenues and many of the businesses. This has been going on for thirty years in Oaxaca and the government has been either sitting on its hands or answering with force. Both sides of the equation are negatives–each is ignorant beyond belief. The unions in Oaxaca are Mafias, and the government is complicit with inaction, and has never tried negotiating. Chaos is big business in Oaxaca.”

An article in Forbes put it bleakly: “A number of citizens, fed up with the corruption of the political parties are left with the option of voting for the ‘least bad,’ abstaining or annulling (tearing up) the vote. In any case, the climate is by no means festive. It more resembles a funeral.”

How do the students come out in this battle? How do the ordinary citizens of Oaxaca fare? Not well. There are frustrations with school days cancelled for teacher marches and strikes. Students miss school, parents must scramble for childcare, workers and businesses suffer and are forced to desperate measures to survive. Many fail. Even some on the left are saying enough is enough.

By David Herstle Jones

The Eye 7

Education workers, who make about average salaries for the area, have long enjoyed job security and stable, if modest, paychecks. Peasants and informal peasant workers have faced increasingly precarious conditions. Teachers also have pensions of around 80% or more of their salary with benefits. But, it is the union leaders themselves who have profited the most. There is little or no accounting for the enormous amounts of money that pass through the union coffers. Teachers have little if anything to say about union policies or tactics. Instead, they are intimidated and coerced into supporting the corrupt union bosses.

After ten years of teacher protests, there seems to be little common ground. A complete overhaul of the union seems like the minimum action necessary to make a positive change in education. The existing union is and will continue to fight the reforms tooth and nail.

Periodic teacher evaluations and a merit-jobs system are already in place. The first teacher performance tests were held this past November. The Education Ministry laid off around 3,400 teachers who refused to take the exams. Teachers can be fired if they fail to pass the exam after a third try. Last year, federal and state governments, seeking to implement the education overhaul, fired and replaced some 300 CNTE members from management positions at Oaxaca’s education agency. Teachers’ payrolls were also transferred to the federal government, which now pays the teachers directly. On May 19, Education Secretary Aurelio Nuño Mayer announced that he was firing 3,000 teachers from Oaxaca, Guerrero, and Michoacán for not having worked for three days.

The union leaders have responded with the usual rhetoric: “This disastrous government forgets that our spirited Local 22 has been able to maintain its strength because it is a grassroots movement. There will never be enough jails to imprison all the teachers of the country. The government may be able to take away the freedoms of many, but never the ideals of their struggle, their convictions and their determination to resist the assault of a terrorist government.”

Negotiations between the two sides have been unproductive or nonexistent. The government says teachers must return to classes before talks can continue. Teachers demand the government freeze the implementation of its “unpopular” education reform.

As unpleasant as the current situation may be, I would like to think this is the beginning of a final solution. I want to hope somehow the two sides can find a way to come together for everyone’s benefit, especially the students and the citizens of Oaxaca. Unfortunately, this is probably just wishful thinking on my part.

Something must be done or Oaxaca will continue to languish. Someone must step forward. Where are the leaders? For those who refuse to lead for the greater good, I say: Off with Your Heads !

So, what can I do? What can you do if you care? No matter the outcome, I’m going to Oaxaca once again this year. Nothing can keep me away from a place I love so much. I’ll spend my money in local businesses, spend time with the local people I know and love, and speak out, because I have that luxury, for a better and more just society. Who knows? Maybe it will have a positive effect?

For more writing by David Herstle Jones check out his blog

Think in the Morning.www.thinkinthemorning.com

Most of the residents of Oaxaca, peasants, working class and middle class, abhor what the teachers do and get away with. Peasants don’t have the wherewithal to do anything about it; the middle classes are afraid that if they s p e a k u p a g a i n s t t h e government for the latter not enforcing the law, they will lose what they have as a result of having to bear the wra th o f h i gh rank ing government officials. I have personally seen businesses shut down because the owner dared to speak out against the government.

The crisis has divided the teachers’ unions. The National Education Workers' Union (Sindicato Nacional de Trabajadores de la Educación, SNTE) is the largest union with over a million members. It is aligned with Peña Nieto. The National Coordinating Body for Education Workers (Coordinadora Nacional de Trabajdores de la Educación, CNTE) represents some 200,000 teachers, mostly in poor rural areas including nearly all of the teachers in Oaxaca. The violent opposition by the CNTE has disrupted the community for a decade. Some local communities, fed up with the situation, have run the local union out of town and hired their own teachers.

There seems to be little doubt that Mexico’s education system is in need of repair. Mexico scores near the bottom in education among the members of the OECD. Recent tests carried out by the Education Ministry indicate that half of high school graduates in Mexico could only manage basic mathematics. More than half had reading comprehension problems. The Mexican government insists that national education standards must be put in place, that many teachers are lazy, ignorant, or even criminal, and that the CNTE is corrupt and holding back progress.

Teachers say the results are skewed by measurement difficulties in rural or indigenous areas and that the reforms are not about quality education but are really a means to fire education workers, shrink the labor force, and close schools in rural indigenous areas. Teachers complain the education “reform” seeks to make them scapegoats for the failings of Mexico’s chronically underfunded schools. The protesting teachers have been supported by naïve leftist organizations throughout the world, including in Britain and the United States, whose hearts may be in the right place but whose heads are muddled.

Students, whose only hope of an improved life depends on a good education, are caught in the crossfire. The teachers do have a point. The reforms talk about having a computer in every classroom when many schools don’t even have a regular classroom or other basic necessary resources. OECD Chief of Staff Gabriela Ramos recently noted that Mexico spends less per student than any other OECD country. It will take more than passing reforms to reform education in Mexico. : It will take a real attempt to break the unions' Mafia-like control of the system, sufficient resources, and a realistic understanding of local conditions.

There are some excellent teachers in Mexico, fully devoted to their students, many of whom live in poverty compounded by drug violence. Others, however, view teaching as no more than a means of generating a steady income and benefits not available to the rest of the population, who work in the informal, self-employment economy (60% of Oaxacans). Several teachers have bought their teaching certificates or inherited them and are woefully unqualified.

Heads for large walking puppets popular in Oaxaca, first designed by artist Pedro Cordova for the

Guelaguetza

The Eye 8

Oaxaca's “Vintage” Chango Mezcalero

(Clay Monkey) Mezcal Bottles

By Alvin Starkman, M.A., J.D.

or a half century if not longer, the central valleys of

Fthe state of Oaxaca have been known in the US, Canada and further abroad for production of the high-alcohol-content, agave-based spirit, mezcal. The region's pre-Hispanic ruins, colonial

architecture, cuisine and craft villages have been noted in travelogues and guide books for some time. More recently even beach lovers visiting Huatulco and Puerto Escondido have elected to take in a bit of culture by spending a couple of days in the state capital. The iconic Mexican drink has now taken center stage, and hence the arrival of mezcal tourism. It has gripped Oaxaca; and along with it has come a revival of the chango mezcalero.

Chango mezcalero is a clay receptacle in the shape of a monkey, generally a liter in size or smaller. Traditionally, and arguably dating back to the mid-1800s, it was used as a bottle to market and sell mezcal. It was a natural, since the primate has been associated with drunkenness for eons. In the second of three articles authored by this writer, its history was dated to the 1930s based on uncovering a chango mold dated July 12, 1938, owned by the late Juventino Nieto of the Oaxacan town of San Bartolo Coyotepec. In a cardboard box alongside it was a somewhat larger undated mold of the same vintage. changoDon Juventino was the husband of the late Doña Rosa Real of black pottery fame. However, an alternate theory of the inventor of the , from the same village, has been put changoforward by members of his family.

Many of the old chango mezcaleros found today have written on the back, Recuerdo de Oaxaca (souvenir of Oaxaca), some have a couple's first names on one side or the other (celebrating their marriage), and most but not all are multi-color, painted with the gloss in various stages of decline.

For the past couple of decades, and likely longer, vintage chango mezcaleros have become highly collectible, mainly by Americans interested in Mexican folk art, non-human primate imagery, or mezcal and its associated appurtenances. “Old” clay monkey bottles are available on ebay, and on other websites specializing in the purchase and sale of vintage Mexicana and what are otherwise known as “smalls” from Mexico and the southwest US. Prices can be as low as $50 and as high as $500 USD.

It's very difficult to discern whether or not a chango mezcalero was indeed made in the 1940s or earlier, as some are represented. Antique dealers and aficionados know best how to date collectibles. Most in the general public, however, do not have a clue, and if it looks old to them, it is.

There are currently at least three pottery workshops in the town of Santiago Matatlán which have been producing chango mezcaleros for decades, and continuing to date. Matatlán is known as the world capital of mezcal, boasting the globe's highest number of artisanal (and at least somewhat industrialized if not more so) small family-owned and operated distilleries, or palenques, as the traditional ones are locally known. Some of these contemporary changos are upright, others are sitting on a log, and all are formed with the monkey in different poses. Until recently, if the changos were painted, and most of the time they were, they were glossy. The older ones, both tucked away gathering dust in the back of a palenque, and in local purchasers' homes having been used, often show nice wear.

As of early 2016, or thereabouts, vintage-looking changos have begun to appear in the marketplace in Oaxaca. They have been spotted in at least one antique shop and one mezcalería. The coloring and patina is matte, and exquisite. There are at least two sizes. Most likely they are coming from the same workshop, using the same or similar molds as the shiny bottles, as is easily borne out by anyone who places the old and the new vintage side by side.

It is not suggested that the retailers noted above are motivated by misleading or defrauding the buying public, despite the fact that some are for sale in an antique store. On the contrary, of those found in the latter outlet, some but not all are marked with the date 2015.

Visitors to Oaxaca and elsewhere in Mexico, collectors surfing the net, and retail shoppers in the US and further abroad , should all be vigilant, and not be misled by the outward look of years of use. Oaxaca's chango mezcalero has now come of age as a much more popular collectible than previously. Congratulations are indeed in order to the workshop which has identified the market.

Alvin Starkman operates Mezcal Educational Excursions of

Oaxaca ( ). Alvin has http://www.mezcaleducationaltours.coma substantial collection of both contemporary and vintage changos. Alvin's first visit to Oaxaca was in 1969. He has been a permanent resident since 2004.

www.huatulco-catering.com

Chiles&ChocolateCooking ClassesHuatulco, Oaxaca

Tel. 958 105 1671 Cel. 958 100 7339

[email protected]

There is no better way to get to know a place than through its food.

MezcalEducational Excursions of Oaxaca TM/MR

While in the state capital, learn about this century's

most coveted spirit by spending a day with recognized

authority Alvin Starkman. Visit rural artisanal

distilleries (palenques) using both ancestral clay pot

and traditional copper stills. For novices and

aficionados alike. Sample throughout your excursion

with no obligation to buy.

[email protected]

Tel: 958 581 0025www.ecoyspa.com

Discover Peace and Traquility

The Eye 10

The Museum of Contemporary Art in Oaxaca

By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

On e o f t h e j o y s o f visiting the c i t y o f Oaxaca i s

the variety of museums tha t ca t e r t o many i n t e r e s t s ; h i s t o r y , a r c h e o l o g y , anthropology, textiles and stamps are just a few of the many choices. MACO, Museo de Arte Contemporaneo de Oaxaca, is one of the most entertaining yet often overlooked museums in the historic center.

MACO is located just a short walk on the promenade from the enormous Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca. Although there is a flag that marks its location at Alcalá 202, it is easy to pass right by the entrance or walk through an open door and find yourself in an exhibition room. This room, called Open Cube, contains a very large pyramid construction that emits somewhat disconcerting sounds blending with the chatter of passers-by and other street noises. Constructed primarily out of wood but reminiscent of stone Zapotec or Aztec structures, the pyramid, called Infinite Reflections and designed by Stefan Rummel, stands about 15 feet (6 meters) high and incorporates a staircase of 17 steps.

Although obviously curated to attract tourists to enter the museum, the lack of signs and starkness of the open door exhibit can be a bit startling. So we suggest that visitors look for the formal entrance, which from the street seems no different from the many gift shops on Calle Alcalá. Tickets can be purchased there for 20 pesos, or 10 pesos for seniors with INAPAM identification.

The museum building, dedicated in 1992, seems more colonial than contemporary. Two floors of exhibition rooms surround a large central courtyard. The rooms are mostly small enough to produce a feeling of intimacy between visitors and the art on display.

Permanent works, many by Mexican artists, are displayed on the first floor, along with rotating exhibits. The second floor houses temporary shows of artists drawn from the international community.

Although the building itself seems anchored in the past, the art itself is cutting edge and ranges from side splittingly funny to thought-provoking to deeply disturbing. Among the most amusing on display during our visit in early March were the “Hello Kitty” ceramics by Cisco Jimenez – wry statements on the mass-produced emblem aimed at developing world-wide consumerism among children. Visitors were also chuckling as they viewed Debora Delmar's “Reflective Ideas,” words formed from mirrors; these also mock modern consumerism, such as “goat cheese and nutella sandwich.”

The most disturbing was the video by Edgardo Aragón, juxtaposing film with a narration from a drug runner serving time in a Mexican prison. During an interview with the artist, the prisoner described in detail a trip from his home in a small village to the city where a meeting had been arranged to receive a package of drugs, and then his trip to deliver the drugs near the U.S. border where he was arrested, tortured and eventually sent to prison. The film captured the amazing beauty of the land through which he was driving, including snow-capped volcanos, glistening lakes, and lush pastures with quietly grazing cattle, while the narrative captured the longing of the drug runner to be able to relocate to one of these beautiful areas, settle down, and become a farmer. In an understated way, the film and narrative vividly portrayed the sheer ugliness of the petroleum-producing areas and the cities near the border of the US, the constant fear that accompanied the driver after he picked up the drugs he was to deliver, and the horrors of torture.

One of the most thought-provoking exhibits was the Benjamin Torres construction of two enormous wheels, the e p i t o m e o f m o b i l i t y , incorporating eighty-eight wooden crutches. Another anomalous and stimulating installation was the garden created by Eugenio Ampudia, an internationally acclaimed artist from Madrid, from over 20 000 empty green and brown beer bottles. Filling a whole courtyard, flanked by tall tree trunks, and accompanied by bird song, the arrangement of the bottles, which ordinarily would be tossed into a recycling bin, created beds and paths that reminded one of the formal gardens of Versailles.

We were fortunate to have the entire second story devoted to works by Eugenio Ampudia. Each room in the exhibition was an entire work of art that surrounds the visitor. The overall effect of walking inside a work of his art is stunning.

Marina Chahue, Huatulco

Tel. 958 105 1671Cel. 958 100 7339Closed Mondays

www.cafejuanitamexico.com

Rattlesnakesand Scorpions

By Kary Vannice

The Eye 11

One room, part of his “Infestation” series, had four walls

covered with brightly covered beetles of various sizes. The

sensation produced was a mix of appreciation of the beauty of

the little creatures, both individually and collectively,

admiration of the amount of work necessary to create all these

insects, and a distinctly creepy feeling that the walls of the

museum were entirely infested with cockroaches. Another

was devoted to measurement of time – literally measurement of

time. Temporal words such as “Hoy Es Siempre” (Today Is

Forever) were created out of wooden metric measuring rods.

One room that did not permit entry but allowed a view through

a large opening was titled “Devastated Areas” featuring a body

bag, or perhaps a sleeping bag, that appeared to contain a still

breathing, but otherwise unmoving person. Was the

surrounding area devastated by a hurricane, a military

invasion, or perhaps the prelude to a construction project?

The largest display, “Donde Dormir” (Where to Sleep), was a

series of large-screen videos of the artist preparing for and then

sleeping in easily-recognized iconic centers of art and

architecture, including Museo Prado in Madrid and the

Alhambra in Granada. The idea that he travelled to all these

places where no one sleeps and persuaded the authorities to let

him sleep in them alone is captivating. Who knew watching

someone get ready to sleep could be so fascinating?

Who knew MACO could be so captivating? We know now! We

suggest you stop by the next time you are in Oaxaca and be

prepared to spend an extremely interesting hour or more.

useums often contain objects that evoke our

Mfascination, admiration, and sometimes even, our trepidation.

Museums also often put these objects behind Plexiglas in order to protect them from being damaged or harmed by visitors. In the case of these next two “museums”, the objects on display are indeed behind Plexiglas, but here, it's the visitors who are being protected!

The Herpetario de Chapultepec in Mexico City is an exhibit where you can find a wide variety of Mexico's amphibians, lizards, turtles, and snakes, including several species of rattlesnakes. This herpetarium focuses on the conservation of Mexico's native species. Their focus is on conversation; they gave a healthy breeding program, with almost all their animals born in captivity. They also strive to educate visitors about the importance of these oftentimes overlooked animals. Their goal is to invite the public, both Mexican and visitors alike, to learn about the incredible biodiversity of these unique species and thereby raise the awareness of how important it is to respect and maintain them within Mexico's ecosystem.

If you're interested in things that slither, crawl, and croak, you

can find this unique museum at the Zoológico de Chapultepec,

in Mexico City. Operating hours are Tuesday through Sunday

from 9:00AM to 4:30PM.

Not to be outdone by the poisonous snakes at the herpetarium, the state of Durango came up with its own venomous attraction, The Alacranario. Yep, that's right, the scorpion museum!

The state of Durango, considered to be the land of scorpions, was a logical place to start a small tourist attraction with this nocturnal stalker at its core. When it began, the Alacranario housed just over 300 scorpions, but last year, in the interest of generating more diversity in its cultural tourism, an expansion was planned. Now, another five thousand scorpions of different sizes and species, seven in all, have been included. If you go, you can watch these eight-legged arachnids roam the streets of small model cities, glow bright, aqua-blue under black lights and even climb King Kong style to the top of miniature cathedrals.

The new Alacranario measures 8 meters long, and gives the scorpions more freedom to move quickly, as well as allowing visitors more opportunity to learn about and observe their actions.

If you're all about the alacranes, plan a visit Monday to Sunday 10:00AM – 8:00PM in the historic center of Durango, Durango.

The Eye 12

It's All Latin America, But…Viva La Diferencia!

By Carole Reedy

his past April I was fortunate to spend a month in

Tthree Latin American countries I'd been eager to visit for years: Argentina, Chile, and Uruguay. The historical and political aspects of each country dominated our sightseeing agenda, but perhaps

more compelling were the daily customs and habits in each country and our perceptions of the people. Were you to visit, you'd perhaps have a different vision. My observations were polar opposites of my expectations.

Here are my two cents regarding the people and daily lives of our neighbors to the south. The perceptions and comparisons I make are based on my experience of living 20 years in Mexico.

Dress: The first and perhaps most surprising observation in Buenos Aires is how underdressed the women are. We were told, here in Mexico and also in Chile, that the elegance in dress and composure of the Argentine women was something to behold. I had visions of fur coats, bright lipstick, hats with veils, and backless pumps, shades of flamenco and tango reflected in the apparel. What we found were women of all ages dressed in jeans and tennis shoes, no one sporting bright colors except the occasional swath of a red scarf.

In two weeks, we walked hours in most neighborhoods, but saw no drastic diversion in dress. In contrast, our Mexico City professional women wear everything from classy conservative suits to short skirts and silk blouses, all accompanied by a healthy amount of makeup (face powder, eyeliner applied with tracing discs, mascara, lip liner, and lipstick whose application is masterfully achieved on various modes of public transportation despite the sudden braking attempts of the drivers).

The biggest surprise was the absence of tacones (those high-heeled shoes with platforms that force the wearer to lean forward), with which young woman here continue to struggle. The newest fad farther south appears to be a return to the 90s: chunky shoes with big chunky heels and platforms, a takeoff on high-heeled platforms, perhaps? This caused a bit of confusion. Were they setting a fresh trend or were they going backward?

Bookstores: Shocking! The lines to get into the annual International Book Fair in Buenos Aires snaked around city blocks. We might have thought we were waiting in line for Rolling Stones concert tickets. Since my visit I've read about the extensive reading habits of the people in Argentina and the vast number of bookstores in the city. One of the most beautiful, and largest, bookstores in the world, El Ateneo Grand Splendid Bookstore, is situated in the ritzy Buenos Aires neighborhood of Recoleta. And grand and splendid it is! Built originally in 1919 as a theater for popular tango shows featuring beloved singers such as Carlos Gardel, it was converted into a movie theater in the '20s. Then in 2000 The Ateneo publishing house created the bookstore, which now occupies the beautiful theater building

People and places: Although everyone is very nice, somewhat friendly, and helpful, the people in Buenos Aires lack the warmth of the Mexican welcome. You don't hear a daily buenos dias from passers-by on the street or the provecho from strangers in restaurants. Once you make contact, I found the people most agreeable, but they don't initiate conversation.

Folks seem a bit friendlier in the less populated cities of Mendoza, Argentina, and Montevideo, Uruguay. Also, the aloofness of the men in Buenos Aires is evident in most venues. Women seem invisible to them. When you walk down the street as a woman, you move when passing. They, never. Populations are small despite the vast expanses of land, but the statues and constructions are grand. After living in Mexico City for six years, I felt no obstacles presented a problem while traveling; everything seemed easy. Even Buenos Aires has a population of just 3 million. And all the public monuments and buildings are strikingly beautiful and big.

Food: Despite a diet of pizza, beef, empanadas, and pasta, very few overweight people are evident, though the reason for this remained a mystery. Men don't sport big stomachs, and the women don't have large hips. (It certainly makes for a more pleasant metro ride for all.)

Argentines eat several times a day, so there's rarely an hour when you can't get served. Breakfast is usually just bread and salami, ham, and cheese, and maybe some cereal and fruit (but certainly not the tasty varieties we have in Mexico). In 30 days, we were offered eggs just once in our small hotels and bed and breakfasts. A big surprise was the absence of arrachera on the menu in the restaurants that offered beef as a specialty. Arrachera, a huge favorite here in Mexico, is the most tender cut, always marinated before cooking. Argentine restaurants in Argentina don't offer it, but there's an array of other cuts to satisfy any serious meat eater.

The pizza is a pizza lover's delight, made always with just a little tomato sauce and mounds of mozzarella cheese. Empanadas appear to be a staple in all three countries. Meat-filled empanadas are the most delicious and popular. Any time of day you can stop in a small store on the street to buy them. We also took them back to our rooms for a late-night snack.

Wine: All the wine is good and very affordable. A day didn't go by without a copa de vino with our main meal, and each block of the city houses several wine shops. You can also take wine tours and participate in wine tastings in all three countries. The wines exported to Mexico and the US have a different taste than those same wines in their home countries. If you're an oenophile be sure to visit the Mendoza region of Argentina. Although bragging rights go to the Malbecs, we were bowled over by the Torrontes (a white wine) of the Mendoza and Salta regions.

Language: Contrary to expectations, English is most definitely not the second language in these three countries. Rather, it's Portuguese. In Montevideo, tours of the Teatro Solis and the Palacio Salvo were given in two groups, Spanish and Portuguese. (Ditto for the tours in Argentina.) There were an equal number of tourists in each group. The proximity of Brazil surely accounts for this. The majority of tourists in all three countries appeared to be from neighboring Brazil, and very little US English is heard anywhere.

I did, however, overhear an American summarizing her South American vacation to her travel companion thusly: “I am done with Europe,” she said. “From now on I'm vacationing in South America, where the landscapes are vast and beautiful, the people are delightful, the food tasty, the cities feel safer, and there is no jet lag!” I agree.

The Eye 13

Eternal Life in Guanajuato

erhaps the most unusual museum in Mexico is The

PMuseo de las Momias in Guanajuato, the capital in the state of the same name. This former silver mining town with stunning examples of baroque and neoclassical architecture is a world heritage site.

However, the museum here has nothing to do with the beauty found above ground. The fascinating origin of Las Momias, dates back to the mid 1800s, 1833 to be precise. A cholera epidemic was sweeping through the area, and the town, in an effort to slow the spread of the deadly disease, quickly buried those who had succumbed to the illness. The rapid burials may have led to at least one person accidentally being buried alive. Ignacia Aquilar may have suffered this fate. She had a rare disease that on occasion made her heart beat so faint, it was perceived to have stopped. Thinking she had died, poor Ignacia was buried. But was she still alive?

The question of her demise was only discovered when she and others were disinterred for failure by the relatives of the dead to pay an annual fee to keep the body at its resting place. If relatives were unable or unwilling the pay the tax, their relative's corpse was pulled up from its resting spot in the cemetery.

As more and more bodies were pulled, it became apparent that quite a number of them had been naturally mummified. The mummified bodies were stored, standing, lying, and leaning, in a storage area of the cemetery, certainly creepy for any new employees. Word spread and many visited the cemetery's ossuary building clandestinely.

However, one employee was enterprising and decided the sight was sufficiently shocking to start charging a few pesos for the experience, and the museum had its start.

Back to Ignacia.The story goes that when she was uncovered, she was found face down, and biting her arm. There was a large amount of blood in her mouth as well. That discovery fuelled the rumor mill, that many of these corpses had met similar fate, as they all exhibited distorted body poses and horrific facial expressions. It is easy to imagine they had been in agony after their horrifying discovery of being buried alive. The truth is that this is how most of us look post mortem. Our muscles pull and twist the body and face as the dying process unfolds, and keeping our lips together becomes almost impossible. Natural releasing gases reshape the corpse once the rigor mortis is over.

The museum's collection of some 111 corpses, all exhumed between 1885 and 1989, include the world's smallest mummified corpse, a fetus no larger than a loaf of bread, whose ill mother died giving birth. Some corpse still retain pieces of fabric from the clothing they were buried in. A surprising number are still wearing their socks.

The reason the bodies became perfectly mummified is the dry climate, which provided, which provided arid crypts; the high altitude comes into play as well. The weather is conducive to mummification, which requires two things to occur - the liquefaction of the fat and the drying of the body tissue. This site and Encarnación de Díaz in Jalisco are the two known locations where the mummification process occurs naturally in Mexico. The museum sits on the site of the original cemetery, not surprisingly on a high hill over looking the city.

Vendors set up their stalls in the parking lot selling clear taffy candies twisted to resemble the mummies. Tours of school children and senior citizens roll through every few minutes. It is one of the biggest tourist attractions in Mexico. While many would cringe at the thought of parading small children past a macabre exhibit of remains that perhaps deserve another burial, it is a quintessential example of this country’s celebration of and obsession with death.

Recently, leading forensic anthropologists examined the mummies using X-rays and endoscopy. They have determined the age of the mummies by measuring the arm and leg bones. They have determined the fetus to be the world's youngest mummy at 24 weeks old. What has raised curiosity is that in the case of the two infant mummies, both had been embalmed. This puzzled scientists as to whether this embalming was a step to preserve the body longer, as is the practice in other parts of the world. Infant and fetal corpses decompose rapidly, so it is believed the embalming would have helped preserve the small bodies for these death rituals.

The scientists were told that in rural Mexico now, as in the past, infants who die are dressed in special outfits, representing their young souls’ freedom from sin. The baby girls are in white angelic outfits often with wings, and the infant boys in little outfits, the color of the clothing corresponding to the Saint that represents the month in which the infant died. The dressed infants are on display for a brief time and photographed alone, or with their families as if they were still alive.

The scientists have discovered that, beyond Hispanic origins in the museum, several mummies are from Asian descent, and several suffered from rheumatoid arthritis, extreme anemia and tuberculosis. They also gave Ignacia a closer look, and admit finding her face down could corroborate the rumor that she was buried alive and was using her back to try and push open the coffin lid. The team is returning to take fingernail scrapings to see if there is any material under her nails that match the coffin she was buried in.

Leigh Morrow is a Vancouver writer who operates Casa Mihale, a vacation rental in the quaint ocean front

community of San Agustinillo, Mexico. Her house can be viewed and rented at

www.gosanagustinillo.com

By Leigh Morrow

The Eye 14

More Than AntiquityBy Brooke Gazer

uatulco has the distinction of being home to the

Honly archeological site open to the public on the entire Pacific coast of Mexico. Although it is impossible to determine who originally developed this 3000-year-old-complex, we know

that over the centuries it became home to many different people, including Mixtecs and Zapotecs. For some reason not clearly understood, each group who resided here eventually died out or deserted it, leaving nature to reclaim it.

In 1994, FONATUR (the federal organization that developed Huatulco) suspected that there might be ruins buried deep beneath the surface in Copalita. Evidence of stones and ancient shards that had worked their way to the surface prompted FONATUR to joined forces with the National Institute of Anthropology and History and they began investigative excavations.

Once the site was confirmed to have archeological significance, Mario Schjetnan, an internationally recognized Mexican architect and landscape architect, was commissioned to develop the project. With Schjetnan at the helm, the site at Copalita has become something more than just another ancient archeology dig. Viewing public parks as “an expression for environmental justice”, Schjetnan proceeded with an uncommon attitude about the relationship between archeology and environmental history.

A unique feature of this park is that nature is allowed to co-exist among the excavated ruins. Schjetnan understood that eventually the roots of trees could destroy the ancient structures, but his philosophy in developing the Copalita site was that the flora is as much a part of the history as the ancient buildings. Deciding how much to keep is a fine balance and the park is managed by two directors with distinctly different academic backgrounds. Project Director Raúl Matadamas Díaz oversees the archeological aspects, while Lic. Fernanda Corral Argûelles manages the ecological stability of the area.

With beautifully groomed trails, the park sprawls over more than 200 acres, encompassing three different eco-zones: dry forest, wetlands, and Pacific coast. Some 227 migratory birds pass through our region, making this park a bird watcher's paradise! Although the official hours are 8:00-5:00, a bird guide can arrange to enter earlier or stay later, when birds are most active. Just walking the trails in midafternoon however, I have seen a wide and colorful assortment of our fine feathered friends.

The Eco-Archeological Park of Copalita opened in 2010 at a development cost of over 80 million pesos ($5.5 million USD). This relatively new excavation has only unearthed 30%-40% of the buried structures, but what is visible is distinctly different from other archeological sites seen around Mexico. Rather than building with carved stone, these ancient people employed round river rock. In spite of being a relatively small site, it is a significant discovery because its origins predate Monte Alban by about 400 years. Monte Alban was inhabited for nearly 1500 years beginning around 500BC. Evidence suggests that the site at Copalita was occupied at various times between 900BC through 1000AD.

At the park entry, visitors are directed to an interpretive center with about 35 artifacts found within the Copalita site, as well as numerous pieces from other locations around Oaxaca: Monte Albán, Mitla, Dainzú and Yanhuitlán. This provides a taste of the advanced nature of ancient pre-Hispanic cultures throughout the state of Oaxaca.

Most of the trails are flat and easy to navigate, but practical footwear is recommended. Along the trails, informative signage in both Spanish and English helps visitors comprehend what they are seeing. There is a spectacular viewing spot which requires ascending up 100 steps, and those able to make the climb are rewarded with a marvelous view. To one side is an estuary where the Copalita River meets the sea.

The Eye 15

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The opposite side offers an expansive view of La Bocana beach with dramatically high waves breaking along the shore. Aside from the view, flora and fauna there are three excavations within the park. These include the temple of the serpent, the major temple, and the ball park where the winners had the honor of becoming human sacrifices.

Speaking at Harvard University, Mario Schjetnan was asked how many archeological sites exist in Mexico. His answer was both humorous and simple “There is only one, it is called Mexico!” Roughly speaking, about 50 unexplored archeological sites are suspected to exist along the Pacific coast. It is uncertain when any of these will be open, since excavating and preserving ancient ruins is such a costly business.

We are indeed fortunate that the Eco-Archeological Park of Copalita is the first to be opened for the public to enjoy; even better is that the government has allowed this place to remain such a diverse ecological treasure. The park is conveniently located a mere 10 KM from the town center. If you are able to tear yourself away from Huatulco´s many spectacular beaches, you will not be disappointed.

Parqe Eco-Arqueologico CopalitaGetting there: From La Crucecita, follow the highway signs past Tangolunda and Conejos. The park is a stone's throw past the entrance to La Bocana. Open: Closed Tuesdays, hours 8:00-5:00 but the last entrance allowed without prior arrangement is 4:00.Entrance Fee:�60 pesos for Mexican Nationals80 Pesos for Foreign visitors240 Pesos for an unlimited monthly passFree for anyone with an INAPAM card� � �

Brooke Gazer operates an ocean view bed & breakfast in Huatulco,

www.bbaguaazul.com

The Eye 16

Copper Canyon Train Trip By Dardan Surring

he idea to board the El Chepe Train and explore

TMexico's magnificent Copper Canyon was sown into our brains approximately two years ago, by a friend of ours who had heard, then read about the Copper Canyon Train in northern Mexico. The idea appealed

to all of us (3 couples), and having travelled together before, it seemed like a great adventure to embark upon. Over the next couple of years, lots of investigation about how to get there and what it encompassed, led to our deciding to book all the transportation from our home base in Huatulco. It was the right decision, because not only was it easy, but we were able to cut our costs in half. Over the space of 3-4 days, all the flights, hotels, train tickets, bus rides etc., were locked into place, and paid for. This was done with determination by my wife, Wendy, and Ingrid, Ray's wife (he was the original idea man). All that was left to do was pack some clothes and our passports. In addition, my cousin Carol and her husband Glen(Captain Canada) rounded out our group.

Our first destination was Mexico City (all flights anywhere in Mexico seem to have to pass through that hub), and a smooth, comfortable flight by Interjet had us there in no time. The plane had plenty of leg room and great service (free beer). We would all recommend it highly.

Once we were in the airport, we navigated our way through to the outside and found the subway entrance which would take us to the main downtown square, and our hotel, which was a block away. Everyone was watching us and whispering. Could it be that they were all bundled up from the cold, with down jackets, scarves, mitts, hats etc., and we were in shorts, flip-flops and t-shirts? We felt really out of place, as you can see.

A gentleman on the subway asked us where we were headed and when we told him, he offered to take us there by directing us on and off various trains, until we reached the square. It wasn't long and the fare was only 5 pesos each to get there. Everywhere we went on this trip, people helped us, were so kind and generous and bent over backwards to get us to where we wanted to go. It was a wonderful experience.

We arrived at the huge main square known as the Zocalo in the centre of Mexico City where the Pope had spoken to over a million people in the middle of February. There still remained remnants of his visit with pictures and souvenirs everywhere. We just stood and looked around in awe at the buildings and the people, they in turn continued to wonder where these under-clothed aliens came from. Our hotel (hostel) was only a block away, so we wandered there to check in. This was the only disappointing part of our trip. The hostel was noisy, crowded (although cost efficient), and the rooms were just oversized closets with a bathroom scrunched into it. But we managed. After having some lunch at the hostel, we made our way to the National Palace, which was home to the offices of the President of Mexico and the Federal Treasury. We were able to see murals by Diego Rivera. We also toured the streets and the Metropolitan Cathedral.

The next day we travelled to the Anthropological Museum by Electric Cabs which were silent, smooth and not pricey. The museum was gigantic and housed huge areas designated to the various indigenous states of Mexico.

Artifacts, information, skeletons, costumes, all defined individual cultures and filled us in on Mexican history. This took a whole day, and being adventurous, we took a bus back to the Zocalo which had its own lane and was faster and cheaper than a taxi.

That night after supper, we got ourselves organized for the early a.m. plane ride to Los Mochis. The Volaris flight wasn't long, but felt like it, as we were crammed in like sardines. That was our own fault as we had booked the cheapest, no frills, seats. After landing, we took a cab to the local bus station, to catch a bus that would take us to El Fuerte where we would be boarding the train. Los Mochis is very modern and we would like to return to spend more time there. Prior to getting on the bus, I found a small shop that was newly opened to sell Dairy Queen ice cream. Walking back to the group eating my blizzard seemed to start a stampede by us and others waiting. The owner was beaming and as a result, offered to talk to the bus driver and get us good seats. That he did, right at the front. As I said, people were kind and generous. We were dropped off at the bus station in El Fuerte and took a cab to our booked hotel.

On arrival, the staff were waiting for us and ushered us to our rooms overlooking a river, lush countryside and blueberry fields. The hotel was all carved out of huge rock and our rooms had walls that were part of the mountain. Quaint, and very interesting. We walked to the main square to search for a place to eat. The architecture was tremendous for a small town and very colourful. At the restaurant we chose, we were fortunate to run into a group of Flying Doctors from Los Angeles, who were in town to hold eye clinics and to do eye surgery for the locals. One doctor happened to be a Flamenco dancer, and she performed for us with castanets and a shawl, all dressed in her scrubs. Exceptional!! Walking home, Ray was excited to see a couple of horsemen riding through town. After talking, they invited him to take a trot around the square. He accepted to our delight, and looked like a cowboy from the movies in Mexico. Home to sleep, after a long day.

The Eye 17

In the morning, taxis dropped us off at the train station, and luckily we already had our tickets purchased and printed out. We were all excited as this is what we had done all of the planning for. Boarding, we had seats picked out for us, facing each other in plush seats and huge windows to view the scenery. What scenery it was!! From El Fuerte, we started to climb up into the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains over numerous high bridges and through long dark tunnels. Cameras were clicking everywhere as each turn of the tracks brought oohs and aahs from the passengers. The vistas took your breath away. Colours, rivers, rock formations and knowing that this canyon was 4 times bigger and 3 times deeper than the Grand Canyon in the US, was a little overwhelming. After 6 1/2 hours of eye-popping travel brought us to the halfway point in the trip, Divisadero. Here we disembarked and after a short walk, checked into our hotel which was situated on the edge of the Canyon. Those afraid of heights, should be cautious. Our rooms were side by side and only 20-25 paces from a fence that stopped you from plunging over into the abyss. Sleepwalking was not advised. Later in the afternoon, a guide took us for a walk up into the mountains on a path meant for goats I think. Rocky and uneven, it was difficult and when we finally stopped, all of us were out of breath. While walking, we were told about the Tarahumara Indians, a North American people that live in the canyon and are renowned for their running skills. They have been there forever, living in caves on the sides of mountains, running everywhere and selling their wares to tourists who come by train, bus, car or donkey. They wear colourful clothing, which stand out against the grey and green canyon walls.

We had a super meal at the hotel restaurant that night, drinks in front of a huge, roaring fireplace and then crashed in our rooms which were equipped with propane heaters, as it got very cold that night. Up early for breakfast, then got ready for a long trek, led by our guide again, to the canyon zip lines and mountain tram. Along the way, we could see the enormous size of the canyon, smoke from small fires that indicated where the natives were living, and how far we had come from the hotel.

Arriving at the canyon's edge, we were surprised to see enormous wheels of machinery that drove the trams from one side of the canyon to the other, a long, long way. Glen and Ray were the brave ones and paid their pesos to do seven zip lines in a row, which would take them to the other side of the canyon, where they would take the tram back up.

The tram was now ready to gobble up its passengers and head out over the cliff's edge and dangle thousands of feet above the canyon bottom. It was extremely smooth and was balanced so that the tram cab never really wavered from the start and all the way across. This gave us the true vista of the vastness and depth of Copper Canyon Below we could see pathways that the . were cut into the mountain by the Tarahumara Indians and their goat trails. You could visualize this done over hundreds of years, and marvelled at their persistence and continued existence.

On the other side, we could walk around the perimeter of the fence-protected tram area and take many pictures of the canyon from a 360-degree perspective. All this time, the other two boys were zipping along high above the canyon valleys. We wished we could have seen them at least once, but wouldn't until we were back on the other side. After a short wait, we re-boarded the tram for the return trip. It felt just as amazing as coming over. Glen and Ray met up with us shortly after we disembarked and we walked the path back the way we had come. Easier, as it was downhill. Well, easier for me.

As we had pre-packed before going on the tram, we grabbed our backpacks and trundled up to the train station to board for Chihuahua, our next stop. Waiting, we sampled the cooking expertise of the local people who had set up shops next to the tracks. Fresh-made pita-pockets, as Ray called them, and cold drinks hit the spot. Food was really tasty.

When we boarded the train, our assigned seats were in a different location, which separated us a little, but it made no difference to us as we bounced from seat to seat, as again, it wasn't overly crowded. The trip down the mountains to Chihuahua was nice but uneventful. The scenery included ponderosa land, prairiescapes and a fantastic sunset as darkness started to fall before we reached the lights of Chihuahua. Arriving into the city in the late evening in the dark gave us pause, because we didn't know what to expect at the station. We shouldn't have worried as on disembarking, dozens of cabs, all shapes and sizes, driven by men anxious to make their cab fares awaited. Girding our loins, we hailed two taxis, telling them where we needed to go, and lo and behold, they had us there in 5 minutes, one cab just beating out the other in seconds. We didn't see much of the city, but enough to make us want us to return sometime and explore.

Stopping outside the hotel, we were pleasantly surprised by the newness and size of our night's accommodation. The service desk was great, the rooms huge, clean and new, super big beds where we spent the most comfortable night since we left. Up early and down to the lobby to check out, grab some coffee and cab it to the airport for our return flights. Fortunately, we flew back on Interjet, and were again pleased with the room, free beer and comfort. A short wait at the Mexico City airport and back on Interjet for Huatulco. All in all, the flights were smooth from start to finish, on time and took us where we were supposed to go. Some might think that is expected, but we have learned in the past, not to expect the expected.

Back in familiar surroundings of Huatulco, we grabbed a taxi and headed to our respective homes to shower, sleep and think back over the week's adventures. This trip is one we would highly recommend and would be more than willing to assist those who are wish to go, with information and contacts. Now to merge all of the pictures and videos into one montage, to show all our company what they missed, and what they could expect, if they wish to follow our adventurous footsteps.

CalendarOaxaca City Recurring Events:AA Meetings (English)Daily - Monday and Thursday - 7 pm Also Saturday at 1 pm - All 12 step groups welcome.518 Colon

Religious ServicesHoly Trinity Anglican Episcopal Church Sundays 11 am Crespo 211 (between Morelos and Matamoros)Liturgy followed by coffee hour. Information 951-514-3799

Religious Society of Quaker Friends Meeting, Saturdays 10 am FreeAll are welcome. For more information and location, contact [email protected]

Weekly MarketsEtla Market, Every WednesdayTlacolula Market, Every Sunday

BikingOaxaca is More Beautiful on a Bicycle, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday & Sunday - 9 to 10:30 pm Free, Meet in front of Santo Domingo ChurchRental bicycles available at Mundo Ceiba, Quintana Roo 2011You must bring a passport or Oaxacan credentials. They have tandems, too!

DanzónEvery Wednesday - 6:30 pm FreeAlcalá and ConstituciónA tradition imported from Cuba, the danzón is a stately dance with syncopation. The citizens of Oaxaca gather weekly to dance and watch the dancers.

Ethnobotanical Garden Tours in EnglishWeekly - Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday - 11 am $100 pesosEntrance Reforma and Constitutión.

BridgeTuesday Bridge Game at eMax Learning Center, Hidalgo 104, Jalatlaco, $20 pesos, no partner necessary, starting at 12 noon.

Baseball: Guerreros de Oaxaca 7pm weekdays; 5pm weekends when in town $50 pesos for men in Centro, $25 pesos for womenVasconcelos StadiumOaxaca's own AAA baseball team always includes a couple of players who had brief moments in the major league. Go for the baseball and/or go for the entertaining crowd. This is real Oaxaca! The season is April to August. Niños Heroes and Vasconcelos

Garden ClubMonthly - 1st Wednesday FreeThe Oaxaca Garden Club is dedicated to: learning, sharing and education about gardening, agriculture and nature, primarily in Oaxaca. It is achieved by regular meetings, field trips, outreach to the community and by parties. To receive the monthly notices of activities, send an email to [email protected]

HikingWeekly - Tuesday & Friday 9 am - November thru March Minimal cost for transportationOaxaca Lending Library- Pino Suárez 519Hoofing It In Oaxaca ( is a program of http://www.hoofingitinoaxaca.com/)weekly hikes for adventurous gringos who hanker to explore this part of Mexico on foot. Individual outings fall into three categories: rambles through the open countryside in the Valles Centrales; visits to archeological sites in the area; and more vigorous hikes in the mountains surrounding Oaxaca City.The Oaxaca Lending Library is the rendezvous point for all of the weekly hikes. All information and a full schedule of hikes is on the Hoofing In Oaxaca website. Reservations required.

Tour to Teotitlán del ValleWeekly - Thursday and Saturday - 9 to 5 pm $750 pesosInstituto Cultural OaxacaTravel, Learn, Fight Poverty. Fundación En Via (http://www.envia.org/) is a non-profit microfinance is a non-profit microfinance organization providing tours to communities around Oaxaca where participants visit women in need of small loans to improve their lives. 100% of the tour fees are given to the entrepreneurs as an interest-free micro loan. Instituto Cultural OaxacaAv. Benito Juárez 909

Full MoonJuly 19th

July 16th Lunes del Cerro

July 1stCanada Day

On the Coast Recurring Events:AA Meetings:English AA Huatulco, 7:30pm Remax Plaza, Every WednesdayEnglish AA 6pm, Puerto Escondido Cafecito Rinconada, Every ThursdayEnglish Al-Anon 4:30pm, Puerto Escondido Cafecito Rinconada, Every Saturday

Weekly MarketsPochutla Market- Every Monday

July

Saturday July 2ndHuatulco’s Organic Market Santa Cruz 8am-2pm

Saturday July 16thHuatulco’s Organic Market Santa Cruz 8am-2pm

Sunday July 26thEncuentro de Cocineros - Local cooks gather with sample dishes to raise money for local charities. 2pm Santa Cruz 100 pesos

The Eye 18

Email Usto list your eventon our calendar.It’s [email protected]

“Summer is a great time to visit art museums, which offer

the refreshing rinse of swimming pools - only instead

of cool water, you immerse yourself in art.”

Jerry Saltz

www.viveoaxaca.org/p/guelaguetza2016.html

www.viveoaxaca.org/2016/06/ActividadesMole2016.html