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1. #09 Jewellery Historian
2. #09Jewellery Historian004
3. news portraits 12 Christie's amazing jewels to shine in New
York 26 Basel World strengthens its leadership position 30 Entice
At Basel World 2015 Sotheby's Magnificent jewels in New York 50
Maria Kondakova Designer's passion jewellery Todd Pownell Respect
for the innate properties 106 JazyChic In touch with the stars
Garrard 280 years of rich heritage 32 86 122 musts Editor's Letter
Passion for creativity 08 Issue Globe The designers at a glance 07
inspiration 142 Tourmaline The breathtaking beauty of gems Our
Faves we introduce you to our Secret Garden150 April 2015 Jewellery
Historian 005 Maria Kondakova The passionate artist74 Esthte the
editor's favorite for this month166 cover story
4. Jewellery Historian ISSUE 09, YEAR 01 APRIL 2015 Lucas
Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-chief *** CONTRIBUTORS
Eva Kountouraki Martin Huynh Christina Rodopoulou *** LAY-OUT &
DESIGN Jewellery Historian *** www.jewelleryhistorian.com
[email protected] *** For a free subscription visit
www.jewelleryhistorian.com *** PUBLISHED & DISTRIBUTED IN
PARTNERSHIP WITH H O M O E V O L U T I O N Chomatianou 26, 10439
Athens, Greece *** FREE COPY / NOT FOR SALE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN
2015 All material published in this e-magazine and at
www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the
brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the
Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in
whole or in part, and by any way, the content of this e-magazine.
While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the
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injury which may arise there from. The information on this
e-magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian
assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed
or incomplete information. The information contained has been
provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands or
organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in
articles are the author's own and do not reflect the view of the
Jewellery Historian, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine,
or of any part related to the magazine. Partial or entire
reproduction of the material of this site is strictly
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matters related to this issue are protected under applicable
copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to
intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use,
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of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior
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property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is
valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of links (links) in
the Jewellery Historian Web pages is for informational purposes
only. Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/designs that
belong to third parties. They are published for information
purposes only and with permission of the brands. The Jewellery
Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions,
jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks
mentioned in the Jewellery Historians website and/or e-magazine
belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade
names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be
trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of
other companies and are used for purposes of explanation &
information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a
violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their
owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate
names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their
respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and
are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit,
without implying a violation of copyright law. Jewellery
Historian006
5. Founder & Editor-in-Chief Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier
editor's letter This period is one of the most creative periods of
the year. We are delighted to discover the amazing new creations of
talented artists and we are proud to showcase them to you. It is
also a period of unique auctions that allow to buyers to bid on
historical jewellery, created by the most talented artists for the
most prestigious Maisons. Creation is a process that never stops.
An artist will source inspiration in everything surrounding him or
her. The creation of beautiful or significant never ends. In the
perspective of the history of art, artistic works have existed for
almost as long as human kind. Jewellery is definitely a form of
artistic creation. All art consists of a concept embedded in a
medium. In every issue, we work to showcase the most talented
jewellery designers, the ones that are unique artists. Their work
is a artistic creation of emotions and full of emotions. The
concept is what the artist wants to show to the audience. Working
with the most talented goldsmiths they succeed by combining
imagination to skills and to precious metals and breathtaking
gemstones, to offer to us jewellery lovers, the
creationsthatmakeusdream.Theircreationsaretheonesthatwillcaptureouruniquemomentsandmakethemapartofour
personal history. Then, the sentimental value of each piece, makes
it precious. Once more, I would like to wekcome you to our new
issue, an issue full of unique creations. I would like to welcome
you to our "fairytale", full of gorgeous jewellery, unique
gemstones and the most important full of creativity and passion.
Creation Jewellery Historian 007
6. Jewellery Historian008 issue globe Maria KONDAKOVA Born in
Moscow, Maria spent her childhood there, growing up in a family
which enjoyed travelling and exploring new places. This instilled
curiosity and passion for expressing herself through art. Afters
studyies in London, at Central Saint Martins, in Art and Design and
with a BA in Jewellery Design combined to a diploma in gemology at
GIA , she started working with private clients as well as to
develop other collections including the YouVdiamonds collection
unveiled at Baselworld 2015. Todd POWNELL TAP Jewelry designs
evolve from emotion to (aesthetic) experience and back. Romanticism
underlies the forms of expression within the jewelry. The
interaction of dark and light metals mixed with fine gold and
diamonds combine to evoke a strong sense of mystery and sublime
nature. The dia- monds are bead set upside-down onto the surface in
pave or scattered across the piece. This reverse setting
effectively captures and reflects light in a succession of broad
flashes from oblique angles creating the feeling of twilight. The
emotive experience is primary with passions held over order and the
senses are moved into the pleasures of the imagination. In every
issue we introduce to you, jewellery designers, brands and artists
whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all
aspects. Meet the artists & columnists featured in this
issue.
7. Jewellery Historian Jasmin DJAHABCHAHI Jasmin Djahanchahi
has always been driven by a passion to create beauty influenced by
her love for the ancient Zoroastrian values and her appreciation of
modern western art. Designing is her world, her essential way of
expression. Being of German and Persian heritage and having lived
in many different locations worldwide gives her a truly
multifaceted flair, reflected in all of her work. Her creations
embody simplicity and a fine sense of harmony and balance, her very
personal translation of unconventional wisdom into objects of
desire. Timeless objects that reveal unlimited imagination and a
fresh vision of glamour intended to grace the modern woman. Eva
KOUNTOURAKI Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of
goldsmiths and jewelers. Evas brilliant path in the field of
gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian branch
of GIA, the world famous Gemological Institute of America. Eva
received special training from professional and experienced
gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more
than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA,
transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds,
gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around
world. At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team
Eva Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue. Every month,
discover a new gemstone and the "Unique breathtaking beauty of
gems". In this issue discover and learn about tourmailines. GARRARD
In 1981 Charles, the Prince of Wales, chose a Garrard sapphire and
diamond cluster engagement ring. The vibrant and striking ring worn
by Diana, Princess of Wales was bequeathed to Prince William, Duke
of Cambridge and presented to Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge upon
their engagement in 2011. Garrard has formed a reputation for
distinguished craftsmanship, utmost attention to detail and
everlasting prestige, for over 280 years.
8. Jewellery Historian010 news Boutique openings, coffee table
books, auctions, exhibitions & events. Everything new jewellery
lovers must know, is here.
9. Jewellery Historian 011
10. Auction On April 14 Christies will offer more than 300
jewels for sale including a four strand natural colored saltwater
pearl necklace, a fancy intense purplish pink diamond ring of 5.29
carats, and a cushion cut diamond ring of 80.73 carats as a few of
the highlights. With jewelry from major houses such as Bulgari,
Cartier, Graff, Harry Winston, JAR, Tiffany, and Van Cleef &
Arpels collectors have the opportunity to acquire exquisite signed
jewels priced from $1,000 to $2,700,000. Magnificent jewels to
shine at CHRISTIE'S New York on April 14 Jewellery
Historian012
11. PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S Jewellery Historian 013 A colored
diamond and diamond necklace, by Graff Estimate: $500,000 700,000 A
pear-shaped D-color potentially internally flawless diamond pendant
of 25.49 carats Estimate: $2,500,000 3,500,000
12. On April 14, Christies will present its spring sale of
Magnificent Jewels in New York. Featuring more than 300 jewels, the
sale is led by an outstanding four-strand natural colored saltwater
pearl necklace. Black pearls count amongst the most rare of natural
gems. Much scarcer than their white counterparts, they represent
beauty of the highest order. Very few black and gray pearl
necklaces have been offered for sale in the past fifty years, the
most famous in comparison being The Nina Dyer Black Pearl Necklace,
first sold at Christies Geneva in May 1969 and more recently, The
Cowdray PearlssoldatChristiesLondoninJune2012.Theauction is
expected to achieve in excess of US$40 million.
RahulKadakia,InternationalHeadofChristiesJewelry, commented: After
a record-breaking year in 2014 in which Christies Jewelry
department realized an unprecedented $754.7 million in sales, we
are proud to begin the jewelry auction season with this exceptional
sale of Magnificent Jewels in New York. The auction on April 14 is
comprised of superior quality diamonds, rare colored gemstones, and
natural pearls that present
collectorsremarkableopportunitiestoacquireone-of- a-kind rare
jewels. THE FINEST NATURAL PEARLS Prized since ancient times,
strands of natural pearls matching in color, luster, and shape are
exceedingly rare. The early Spanish merchants in the pearl trade
found it much easier to sell fine white pearls in Europe and it was
not until the second half of the nineteen century that black pearls
began to grow in popularity. This was largely due to Empress
Eugnie, wife of NapoleonIII(married1853),whodevelopedatastefor
these exotic gems. The present lot comprises over two hundred and
eighty-nine colored pearls with highly
attractiveros,greenorpurpleovertonesandveryfine orient. Additional
highlights include a pair of Art Deco pearl and diamond bracelets
each comprising five
strandsofnaturalpearls,measuringapproximately5.00
to6.60mmindiameterandcarryingapre-saleestimate of $120,000 150,000;
and a collection of fine white natural pearls priced from $40,000
to $400,000. EXCEPTIONAL SIGNED JEWELS Great design is the core of
what makes classic jewelry hold its value over the long term, and
Christies is proud to present the best and most iconic examples
from the major jewelry houses this April. Among the scores of
jewels is a leading selection from master jeweler, Laurence Graff.
Having established his first retail shop under his name in 1962,
the company draws upon generations of training to create the
extraordinary fine settings and intricate designs synonymous with
the Graff brand. Further highlights include offerings from Bulgari,
Cartier, Harry Winston, JAR, and Van Cleef & Arpels.
www.christies.com Jewellery Historian014 Magnificent jewels to
shine at CHRISTIE'S New York on April 14 PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S
A four-strand natural colored pearl necklace measuring from 12.65
to 4.90 mm ; Estimate: $3,800,000 4,500,000
13. Jewellery Historian 015 PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S A fancy
intense purplish pink diamond of 5.29 carats Estimate: $3,500,000
5,000,000
14. Magnificent jewels to shine at CHRISTIE'S New York A pair
of D-color diamond ear pendants of 10.06 and 10.02, by Harry
Winston. Estimate: 1,500,000 2,000,000 PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S
Jewellery Historian016
15. A magnificent & rare natural colored pearl and diamond
necklace measuring from 12.65 to 4.90 mm ; Estimate:$3,800,000
4,500,000 PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S Jewellery Historian 017
16. A sapphire and diamond necklace, by Graff Estimate:
$250,000 350,000 Magnificent jewels to shine at CHRISTIE'S New York
Jewellery Historian018 PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S
17. A pair of Art Deco natural pearl and diamond bracelets
Estimate: $120,000 150,000 A superb emerald, ruby, and diamond
necklace, by Bulgari Estimate: $300,000 400,000 Jewellery Historian
019 PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S
18. PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S Magnificent jewels to shine at
CHRISTIE'S New York A cushion-cut D-color potentially Internally
Flawless diamond of 11.03 carats, by Graff Estimate: $750,000
1,000,000 Jewellery Historian020
19. An octagonal-cut Kashmir sapphire of 11.88 carats Estimate:
$1,200,000 1,800,000 A pair of emerald, diamond, and colored
diamond earclips, by JAR; Estimate: $250,000 350,000 Jewellery
Historian 021 PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S
PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S
20. Born in Texas in 1900, Paul Flato was the original jeweler
to the stars. He founded his company in New York City in the 1920s
and opened a Los Angeles store in 1937. His design- oriented style,
which was figurative and often humorous, reached its peak in the
1930s. Millicent Rogers, the Standard Oil heiress, was one of his
most photographed clients. Routinely on the International Best
Dressed list as a woman of high fashion and distinctive taste, she
had many ideas for jewelry designs that Flato turned into
innovative creations, such as the puffy heart. The present lot
(illustrated right; estimate: $350,000 500,000), a ruby, sapphire,
and colored diamond enamel brooch was designed and worn by
Millicent Rogers and is pierced with an arrow draped with a blue
ribbon with the words, Verbum Carro (A word to my dear). It is
evocative of the South American Milagros icon related charms that
were worn THE WHIMSIES OF PAUL FLATO Magnificent jewels to shine at
CHRISTIE'S New York Jewellery Historian022
21. PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S Jewellery Historian 023 The
Millicent Rogers heart by Paul Flato Estimate: $350,000
500,000
22. Magnificent jewels to shine at CHRISTIE'S New York
PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S A pair of
cushion-cut diamond ear pendants of 10.28 and 10.42 carats ;
Estimate: $600,000 800,000 A sapphire and diamond necklace, by Van
Cleef & Arpels; Estimate: $300,000 500,000 Jewellery
Historian024
23. PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S A cushion-shaped diamond of 80.73
carats Estimate: $4,000,000 5,000,000 Jewellery Historian 025
25. Strengthens its Leadership Position Baselworld 2015
Baselworld 2015, THE global trendsetting event for the watch and
jewellery industry, concluded the 2015 edition on a positive note
after eight intensive and memorable days. The biggest and most
prestigious brands in the world, the finest retailers and the
global press once again united under one roof and capitalised on
the myriad of business and networking opportunities that are
exclusive to Baselworld. A record number of press attendees
underlined the relentless growth of interest in the show.
Universally acknowledged as the one unmissable trendsetting event
for an entire industry, Baselworld is the only show that unites key
players from all sectors from around the world: watchmaking,
jewellery, diamonds,gemstonesandpearls,aswellas machines and
suppliers. The undisputed premier event once again saw 1,500 brands
unveil and showcase their innovations and creations. With
marginally fewer buyers present (-3% vs 2014), Baselworld 2015 had
around 150,000 attendees (including representatives from exhibiting
companies, buyers, journalists and other visitors) from over 100
countries. They felt the pulse of the industry, discovered the
novelties, and purchased the latest collections which will set the
trends for the coming year. More than 4,300 (+ 7.5% vs 2014)
representatives of the press from over 70 countries attended the
show. These numbers signify a new all-time record further
underscoring the international interest in the show. In keeping
with Baselworld's wide reach and universal attractiveness, a
livestream of the opening press conference was broadcast and
followed by some 3,000 journalists from all over the world. A
RESILIENT, RESPONSIVE AND CREATIVE INDUSTRY The show has been a
positive one for the watch and jewellery brands. With resilience,
responsiveness and creativity, the industry continues to lead the
way forward such that the attractiveness and interest that this
sector creates continue growing. Nowhere else are more innovations,
creations and new collections revealed than at Baselworld - all the
elements that make this show THE trendsetting event worldwide.
Reflecting on this year's edition of Baselworld, Franois Thibaud,
President of the Swiss Exhibitors' Committee, said he was reminded
of the show's rich history and the evolution from its simple roots
to the superlative event it is today. "Baselworld is universally
acknowledged as the premier event for the global watch and
jewellery industry. What makes it exceptional is that Baselworld is
the only show that fully reflects the excellence of the industry by
uniting everyone from the smallest to the largest brands
representing every sector; and it offers each of these a
prestigious platform to present themselves in the best light." >
Jewellery Historian 027
PhotocourtesyofBaselworldPhotocourtesyofBaselworldPhotocourtesyofBaselworld
PhotocourtesyofBaselworld
26. > Summarising his impression of this year's show, Mr
Thibaud said that the feedback he had received from brands over the
course of the eight days, leaves him "convinced that this year will
be a positive one for the industry because everyone has continued
to innovate, not just with creating products, but also with
intensifying communication with the media and buyers". Commenting
on the value of the show, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of
Chopard, is of the opinion that "Baselworld continues to be the
major milestone in the year, allowing us to meet and work with all
our major clients around the globe. Our press meetings are equally
important and increasing every year". This opinion was also shared
by Thierry Stern, President of Patek Philippe, for whom Baselworld
continues to be the most important annual event where "we get to
meet all our partners and the entire global network in a
concentrated time". Mr Stern found this year's show to be "an
excellent edition that was really successful in terms of numbers
and the interest in our products from retailers and the press".
Enthusiastic about Baselworld and the success of the LVMH Group at
this year's show, President of the group's watch division,
Jean-Claude Biver, said that for their brands, TAG Heuer, Hublot
and Zenith, "the results are excellent and we are above all our
expectations". SHINING SUCCESS FOR DIAMONDS, GEMSTONES & PEARLS
TRADE Baselworld goes beyond the world of watches and jewellery as
it is also the leading global event for diamonds, gemstones and
pearl merchants. The best players and dealers from around the world
participate in Baselworld because of the immense audience it
attracts among which are the biggest customers from all markets.
First time Baselworld exhibitor, Shanghai Kimberlite Diamond Co.,
Ltd, very enthusiastically praised the value of their
participation. "This is the first time we've exhibited at
Baselworld and we can honestly say this is the one and only show
that offers us so many unique opportunities. In the course of the
eight days we were able to maximise the effect of our participation
as we met with the most importantbuyersfromallovertheworld and
talked to the most significant journalists. All in all, this has
been a tremendously successful show for both our brand and our
business," said Kimberlite Chairman Dong Liusheng.
PRESSATTENDANCEATBASELWORLD 2015 SETS NEW RECORD More than 4,300 (+
7.5 % vs 2014) of the world's financial press, major dailies,
lifestyle publications, all the trade press, the biggest TV
channels and key players in the field of social media from over 70
countries attended the show to be among the first to discover those
innovations and creations unveiled at Baselworld. With everyone
from magazine editors seeking to discover cutting-edge trends and
innovative designs to bloggers who deliver up-to- date editorials
to consumers in every corner of the planet, the international press
once again played a major role in creating an unrivalled global
impact and underlining the show's premier position for the watch
and jewellery industry. BASELWORLD - NEVER CEASING TO INNOVATE TO
MEET EVOLVING REQUIREMENTS Summing up the successful conclusion of
the 2015 edition of this superlative show, Sylvie Ritter, Managing
Director of Baselworld, said that "Baselworld is the heart of a
whole industry which spreads throughout the entire world from here.
This statement is becoming increasingly true with every year that
passes, as Baselworld strengthens its position as the leader year
after year". Further reflecting on what makes this show the one
unmissable event for the entire industry, Ms Ritter very clearly
states: "This envied and enviable position has to be defended
untiringly; that's why Baselworld moves forward every year,
improving convenience and impact, and never ceases to innovate to
meet the constantly evolving requirements." THE NEXT BASELWORLD
WILL BE HELD 17 - 24 MARCH 2016 Jewellery Historian028
PhotocourtesyofBaselworldPhotocourtesyofBaselworldPhotocourtesyofBaselworld
27. PhotocourtesyofBaselworld Jewellery Historian 029
29. at Baselworld 2015 ENTICE For the 10th year in a row,
Entice, the fine jewellery brand by the century old KGK group, from
Hong Kong, participated at Baselworld 2015. ENTICE showcased its
mesmerizing range of trendsetting Diamond jewellery from its latest
collections. Breathtaking necklaces exuding grandeur, flexible
white and yellow gold bracelets studded with white and yellow
diamonds in beautiful geometrical patterns, long diamond earrings
with intricate detailing, spectacular emerald ring, exquisite
combinations of different unique shapes of diamonds like pear,
round, rose cut, baguette etc. set in white and yellow gold
complimenting the unique designs. The Jewellery displayed is now
available at Entice Hong Kong exclusively and would come to India
later this year. Each piece at Entice has been handcrafted to
precision by anexpertteamofinternationaldesignersatEnticesstate-of-
the-art -manufacturing unit in Hong Kong. Each bauble is unique in
its own and exudes opulence, making it a prized possession for the
possessor. The uniqueness of Entice Jewellery lies in its
unprecedented grace and trendsetting flair, which is synonymous
with brands commitment to create the best! Present at the
Baselworld 2015, Mr. Sanjay Kothari, Vice Chairman - KGK Group of
Companies said, Its an honor for the brand to be associated with
Baselworld, the biggest jewellery fair in the world. For many years
we have been showcasing our finest of the work at this platform and
maintain the legacy, this year as well, we have showcased
themostpremiumandbestofdesignsfromEnticespandora of excellence.
Taking the rich Indian jewellery heritage and enhancing it with a
contemporary twist, Entice Jewellery offers a classical yet
contemporary style; boasting an elegant rich look. 'Entice' was
launched by KGK group at the turn of millennium in 2004 in Hong
Kong. Following a huge success with boutiques in Hong Kong &
China and with an impression that India is now modern by design,
KGK launched its first boutique of Entice in Jaipur in 2009. Entice
today has 17 standalone boutiques in countries including Hong Kong,
China and India (Jaipur, Mumbai, New Delhi & Bengaluru). Entice
designs meet the mounting demand for an internationally aesthetic
look, lending a unique artistic blend to their pieces. Associated
by the strength of KGK, Entice aims to create an unparalleled
position of credible leadership by providing unmatched customer
delight and exceeding customer expectations at every opportunity
with its precious gems and jewellery. The KGK group, established in
1905 by Kothari family of Jaipur, is a global corporation with
fully integrated operations in the Gems & Jewellery industry,
with presence across 15 countries. A pioneer in the world of
precious stones, KGK Group has been sourcing, manufacturing and
distributing diamonds, colored stones and jewellery for
decades.KGKssourcingofitsroughdiamondsfromDeBeers as a sightholder,
from Rio Tinto, Alrosa and other organized markets, provides it an
easy access to diamonds at most reasonable prices. Jewellery
Historian 031 PhotocourtesyofENTICEENTICE
31. at SOTHEBY'S New York Magnificent jewels Jewellery
Historian 033 Sothebys21AprilauctionofMagnificentJewelsinNewYork
will offer more than 350 pieces that together are estimated to
achieve in excess of $50 million. The sale is led by a diamond
unlike any offered before: an extraordinary 100-carat perfect
diamond in a classic Emerald-cut that is estimated to sell for
$1925 million. Among the exceptional pieces on this sale, the
"Baron de Rothschildnecklace",theMonarchBlueDiamondandunique
jewellery by world famous maisons.
32. at SOTHEBY'S New York Magnificent jewels Sothebys 21 April
auction of Magnificent Jewels in New York will offer more than 350
pieces that together are estimated to achieve in excess of $50
million*. Highlights will be on public view in Hong Kong, London
andDohathismonth**,beforereturningtoNewYorkfor exhibition beginning
17 April. The sale is led by a diamond unlike any offered before:
anextraordinary100-caratperfectdiamondinaclassic
Emerald-cutthatisestimatedtosellfor$1925million.At this impressive
scale, diamonds of this exceptional quality D color and Internally
Flawless clarity are incredibly rare, and are considered perfect.
What distinguishes the present example within this rarefied league
is its beautiful shape: it is the largest perfect diamond with a
classic Emerald-cut ever to be offered at auction. The remarkable
100.20-carat, D color, Internally Flawless, Type IIa stone will
highlight Sothebys Magnificent Jewels auction in New York on 21
April 2015, when it is estimated to sell for US$19-25 million. This
modern shape gives the stone an unforgettable
presence,whetheritiswornasajeweloradmiredonits own. The original
rough weighing over 200 carats was
minedbyDeBeersinsouthernAfrica.Thecurrentowner
spentoveroneyearstudying,cuttingandpolishingthe rough diamond to
deliver the spectacular stone.
GarySchuler,HeadofSothebysJewelryDepartmentin New York, commented:
This 100.20 carat diamond is the definition of perfection. The
color is whiter than white, it is free of any internal
imperfections, and so transparent that I can only compare it to a
pool of icy water. It is the first true emerald-cut diamond over
100 caratstobeofferedatauctionthemostclassicofcuts, quietly elegant
and very contemporary. Lisa Hubbard, Chairman of North & South
America for Sothebys International Jewelry Division, said: The
rarestobjectofnaturalbeautyonthemarketrightnow, this 100-carat
diamond could be considered the ultimate acquisition. Simply put,
it has everything you could ever want from a diamond: the classic
shape begstobeworn,whilethequalityputsitinanassetclass
ofitsown.Thestonegivesyousomanyoptionsadmire it un-mounted, wear it
as a simple but stunning pendant, or mount in a designed jewel.
Since 1990, when Sothebys sold the first 100-carat perfect diamond
at auction, until the most recent
examplein2013,thepricepercaratforthesestoneshas increased from
$125,000 to $260,000. The present stones low estimate of $19
million represents a valuation of $190,000 per carat. Other
highlights of this exceptional auction are a
magnificentplatinum&18Karatgold,ringwithafancy purplish pink
diamond, weighing 6.24 carats set in a unique mounting with
two-cushion cut Kashmir sapphires of 2.44 and 2.36 carats.
(Estimate $2,500,000-3,500,000). At the same sale will be sold also
"The Monarch Blue Diamond". This important ring in platinum
centering an oval-shaped mixed cut fancy blue diamond of 6.06
carats,inVVS2clarityandcomplementedwithsixpink- hued round dimoands
has an estimate of $3,500,000-4,500,000.
TheBarondeRothschildNecklace,anelegantandrare platinum, emerald,
sapphire, lapis lazuli and diamond necklace, was designed by
Charles Jacqueau for Cartier, Paris, circa 1924 and has an estimate
$1,800,000-2,200,000. Jewellery Historian034
33. PhotocourtesyofSOTHEBY'SSOTHEBY'S Jewellery Historian
035
35. Jewellery Historian 037 A Magnificent Platinum, 18 Karat
Gold, Fancy Purplish Pink Diamond and Sapphire Ring
Abeautifulcolorcombinationofanunmodifiedpear-shaped Fancy Purplish
Pink diamond weighing 6.24 carats, set in
auniquemountingwithtwocushion-cutKashmirsapphires of 2.44 and 2.36
carats. Estimate $2,500,000-3,500,000 Magnificent jewels at
SOTHEBY'S New York
36. Magnificent jewels The Baron de Rothschild necklace
Jewellery Historian038 Aprofileina1932editionof
Voguestatedthat,TheBaronnede
Rothschildisoneofthesmallgroupofwomenintheworldwho are
internationally known for their great chic. Her taste in
clothes,injewels,andinhousesisfaultless,andsheisaperson of
outstanding distinction among the women of the present
generation.Whenoneobservesthemagnificentsapphireand
emeraldpendantnecklace,purchasedfromCartierin1924by
theBaronEugnedeRothschildforhisnewbride,itisevident
thatiswasonceinthecollectionofaworldrenownedtastemaker. Marking an
important moment in the history of Art Deco jewelry design, this
Cartier piece becomes all the more iconic when you look at the
woman behind the jewel.
BornCatherineWolffinPhiladelphia,PrettyKittyasshewas known was
always destined to live a lavish international lifestyle. After
studying music in Munich, she lived in New York with first husband
Dandridge Sportswood, often traveling and socializing in Paris and
London. In 1911 Catherine married Count Erwin Schoenborn of
Austria; they met in Paris and resided in Vienna. Upon the end of
her marriagetoSchoenbornin1924,CatherinemarriedtheBaron Eugne de
Rothschild, of the famed international banking
family.ThepresentCartierdesigndatestothesameyear,and was possibly a
gift to celebrate the marriage.
Itcomesasnosurprise,giventhecitiesandthesocialcirclesin
whichtheBaronessresided,thatshewasoftencelebratedasone of the best
dressed women of the time. In 1937 a group of elite
FrenchdesignersincludingCocoChanel,ElsaSchiaparelliand Jeanne
Lanvin (amongst others) named the Baroness de
Rothschildthe5thbestdressedwomanintheworld.Thatyear
thelistwastoppedbyMrs.HarrisonWilliams(laterknownas the Countess
Mona von Bismarck). In 1938, Rothschild was named the 4th best
dressed woman in the world, only to be
surpassedbytheDuchessofKent,theDuchessofWindsorand Madame Antenor
Patio (who topped the list). Around this same time, after
abdicating the throne in 1936, the Duke of Windsor stayed with the
de Rothschilds at their castle in Enzesfeld, Austria. While the
Duke waited to marry Wallis
Simpson,newspapersacrosstheglobewentwildaccountingfor
eachstephetookwithintheRothschildestate.TheBaronand Baroness de
Rothschild were one of the few guests invited to
attendthe1937weddingoftheDukeandDuchessofWindsor, who made several
trips back to Enzesfeld after their nuptials. By 1940 the Baron and
Baroness had moved to New York; the
BaronmadehisjourneyinAugustandtheBaronessfollowedin
OctoberafterabriefstayinLisbon.AccordingtoanOctober6, 1940 article
in the Chicago Tribune, She carried with her a collection of
jewels, declaring their listed value at more than $100,000. Likely
hand carried by the Baroness de Rothschild on her journey from
Lisbon to New York, the sapphire and emerald
necklacebyCartierhasadesignasstrikingandmodernasthe
dayitwaspurchasedin1924.CreatedbyCartierschiefdesigner
CharlesJacqueau,afrontrunneroftheboldArtDecoaesthetic, this jewel
perfectly blends Eastern and Western motifs by modernizing the blue
and green peacock patterns often seen Mughal jewels and artwork.
Suspending three important
Mughalstonescarvedwithfloralmotifs,thelargeremeraldis framed within
a geometric lapis lazuli and diamond border. Composed of graduated
Kashmir sapphire beads spaced by lapis lazuli and diamond
rondelles, the length of the necklace
wouldhaveperfectlysuitedthecolumnardressesofthe1920s,
yetmaintainsthesamecontemporaryelegancewhenwornin the present day.
In the style of Mughal Empire art, the necklace combining elements
of Indian and Persian decorative traditions, the pendant suspending
a hexagon-shaped emerald, an oval-
shapedsapphireandapear-shapedemerald,allcarvedwith
Mughalfloralmotifs,completedbyanecklacecomposedof41 sapphire beads,
spaced by 80 lapis lazuli beads and diamond-set rondelles, further
applied with diamond and lapis lazuli accents, length 29 inches,
adjustable, signed Cartier, Paris, numbered 0310, with French assay
and partial workshop marks; circa 1924. Designed by Charles
Jacqueau for Cartier, Paris, circa 1924 Estimate
$1,800,000-2,200,000 Text from the sale catalogue and reproduced
with permission of Sotheby's at SOTHEBY'S New York
37. This Mughal Empire-style necklace was exhibited recently at
the Denver Art Museum exhibition Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th
Century. Created by Cartiers chief designer Charles Jacqueau, the
blue and green necklace highlighted by three colored stones carved
with Mughal floral motifs was acquired by Baron Eugene de
Rothschild in 1924 for his new American wife Catherine. In 1927,
Vogue wrote about the Baroness and her Cartier necklace in an
article about the beautiful new jewels on the smartest women in
Paris, stating that her taste in fashion and jewels was faultless.
Jewellery Historian 039 PhotocourtesyofSOTHEBY'SSOTHEBY'S
39. Jewellery Historian 041 A Highly Important Platinum and
Diamond Pendant-Necklace Suspending a pear-shaped diamond of 52.26
carats, D color, SI1 clarity, with excellent polish and symmetry
Estimate $3,800,000-4,200,000 Magnificent jewels at SOTHEBY'S New
York
41. A unique brooch, by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.,
France
FormerlyintheCollectionofMrs.PaulMellon,thestylizedflowercenteringan
octagonal-shapedmixed-cutsapphireweighingapproximately17.00carats,
theframessetwithnumerousrounddiamondsweighingapproximately8.00
carats, signed Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger, Made in France, with
French export marks; circa 1960.
AsstatedinthecatalogueoftheexceptionalsaleatSothebys"Mrs.Mellonand
Schlumbergerhadalong-standingfriendshiprootedintheirmutualpassion
for horticulture; Schlumbergers designs often are inspired by flora
and
fauna,andlikeMrs.Mellonsgardeningstyletheyshareameticulousattention
todetail.UsinganexceptionalKashmirsapphire,thepresentpieceresembles
the vibrant flowers that decorate the grounds of Oak Spring Farms,
the sprawling estate shared by Mr. and Mrs. Mellon in Upperville,
Virginia.
Mrs.MellonbequeathedherSchlumbergerjewelstotheVirginiaMuseumof Fine
Art in Richmond, Virginia; among one of the rarest pieces in the
museumscollectionisaflowerpotfrom1960,featuringabejeweledsunflower
burstingfromaterracottapotfromMrs.Mellonsgreenhouse.Althoughthe
flowercurrentlycentersanamethyst,itwasreportedlyfirstcenteredbyan
impressive sapphire. It remains unknown if the present brooch was
the
originalcentertotheflowerpotwork;however,therearestrikingsimilarities
between the quality of the current sapphire and accounts of the
original
Schlumbergerpiece.AquotefromSchlumbergerinthebooktitledTheJewels of
Jean Schlumberger (page 46), notes, Sometimes that led me to find
solutionsthatwerefunratherthanpractical.Oneday,adealerbroughtmea
singularlybeautifulKashmirsapphire,knownasTheDancingGirlofIndia. I
was astonished by it, and proposed it to someone who greatly loved
special
things.Hiswife,Iknew,didntliketowearlargestones,butshelovedgardens,
andthatshowthatsapphire-turned-flowerendedupgrowinginarealterra-
cotta flowerpot selected from her greenhouse! " Estimate
$750,000-1,000,000 Text from the auction catalogue and used with
permission of SOTHEBY'S Jewellery Historian 043 Magnificent jewels
at SOTHEBY'S New York
43. Magnificent jewels 'Tutti Frutti' Bracelet, Cartier, New
York
TheepitomeofEasterninfluencesonArtDecodesigns,tuttifruttipiecesby
Cartier are jeweled masterpieces. The artful arrangement of carved
colored
stonesanddiamonds,togetherwiththepreciseapplicationofblackenamelall
serve to tell a jeweled story that only Cartier could author. After
first being exhibited at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des
Arts Dcoratifs et
IndustrielsModernesinParis,thetuttifruttistylerapidlygainedpopularity
amongstthemostfashionablewomenanddiscerningjewelrycollectorsofthe
time such as Mrs. Cole Porter and Daisy Fellowes. Perhaps what is
most mesmerizing about these iconic jewels is that each creation is
completely unique. As with colored stones and diamonds, tutti
fruttijewelsmayshareresemblanceshowevernotwoareeverthesame.What
makes this a quintessential tutti frutti piece is the large
presence of carved
emeraldsandrubies,connectedthroughoutbyadiamond-setvine,aswellas
the chevron motif on the clasp, seen on similar examples of the
style. What
makesthisanexceptionaltuttifruttipiece,however,isthedelicateframing
appliedaroundeachjeweledflowerandleaf,theblackenamelprovidingadded
contrasttoeachstonewhilealsocreatingaharmoniousbalancethroughout.
ThesupremelyArtDeco-styleclasp,withitssleekgeometry,servesasstylized
vasesfromwhichthetuttifruttivinemaygrowandflourishfromendtoend of
the bracelet. As iconic as the floral festoons which adorn its
original fitted case, this tutti
fruttibraceletbeautifullyshowcasestheultimatecraftsmanshipforwhich
Cartier is known. Tutti frutti designs have long been enchanting
jewelry
connoisseurs;thepresentexamplewithitsvibranthuesandhighlyflexible
form is both a wonder to see and a wonder to wear. Estimate
$1,300,000-1,800,000 The above text is from the official auction
catalogue and used with permission of SOTHEBY'S Jewellery Historian
045 at SOTHEBY'S New York
44. Jewellery Historian046 The Monarch Blue Diamond An
Important Platinum, Rose Gold, Fancy Blue Diamond and Colored
Diamond Ring Centering an oval-shaped mixed cut Fancy Blue diamond
of 6.06 carats, VVS2 clarity and complemented with six pink-hued
round diamonds. Estimate $3,500,000-4,500,000 Magnificent jewels at
SOTHEBY'S New York
45. Jewellery Historian 047
PhotocourtesyofSOTHEBY'SSOTHEBY'S
46. Cover story
47. Jewellery Historian050 PhotocourtesyofMEGHNAJEWELS
MEGHNAJEWELS cover story
PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERYMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
48. Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery was founded in 2007 and
caters to the most discerning clientele, who value individuality in
every aspect of their image. The Swiss- based high-end jewellery
house is a family business with Russian and Greek heritage. A
strong work ethic is reflected in the company culture, where every
member of the team is committed to providing the highest levels of
service and creating a full brand experience. The company mission
is to provide timeless designs, unaffected by changing trends, for
elite clientele wishing to highlight their individuality. Maria
Kondakova Fine Jewellery aims to fill the gap in the market for a
fine jewellery house offering bespoke and limited edition pieces of
innovative design with classic elements, which will rival mass-
produced luxury jewellery brands. It is important to highlight and
accentuate the beauty and character of the wearer, ensuring the
creations are pleasing to the eye and have emotional appeal, which
can subsequently create an emotional connection. High quality and
craftsmanship translate the poetry of the designers vision into
innovative pieces, which can be cherished for many years to come.
Deep meaning embedded in every piece communicates the stories and
elements of inspiration reflective of the designers experiences.
Delicate and thoughtful designs with multicultural influences
showcase a definitive design signature. Intricate pieces reflect
the delicate nature of the relationship of the wearer and jewellery
as D e s i g n e r s p a s s i o n f o r f i n e j e w e l l e r y
Jewellery Historian 051 PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
MARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY M A R I A K O N D A K O V A
49. > All creations are very special and come made-to-order
or in a limited edition. Many have been specifically designed for
the brands very special clients. Every element of every jewel is
carefully sourced and selected to fit the fairy tale that is Maria
Kondakova Fine Jewellery. The brand prides itself on achieving the
highest levels of quality and innovation by working with the most
outstanding craftsmen in Italy and using the latest technology,
which makes the creations a truly exceptional choice for those
seeking unique and personal expression in every aspect of their
lives. This year at Baselworld 2015, Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery
presented a number of bespoke creations alongside the new
YouVdiamonds collection. Bespoke pieces are the core of the brand,
as the creative director loves to work with private clients and to
create unique and exciting pieces. In the world of mass- produced
luxury jewellery, customers expect more than just good quality from
their jewellery and thus Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery seeks to
establish a long standing connection and relationship with clients
wishing to have truly unique pieces. Most of the brands clients
look for rare and bespoke creations with a personal touch, which
reflects the essence of their distinctive thinking. Maria works
directly with clients to create pieces tailored to a certain
occasion or theme or to produce designs with particular stones.
Both the creative director and the client take part in the design
process, creating the story surrounding the piece, thus connecting
the aesthetics of the brand and the individuality of the client.
Being open to clients feedback generates a two-way communication
resulting in couture-like pieces that hold a special place in the
heart of the client. The combination of thoughtful design, strong
concept and exceptional craftsmanship, along with Marias curiosity
about modern technologies in jewellery design and production, makes
the creations an exceptional choice for those looking for
individuality in every detail of their image. Customers are invited
to indulge in the feeling of being adorned by truly unique and
precious art, compressed in the smallest forms. Beauty of the
YouVdiamonds collection YouVdiamonds by Maria Kondakova Fine
Jewellery is a unique, limited edition collection, which is to be
unveiled at Baselworld 2015. YouVdiamonds will lead you to the
truly personal and exclusive world of Maria Kondakova jewellery,
where every piece is made with passion, exceptional craftsmanship
and great attention to detail. Thoughtful and inspirational design
instilled in each creation showcases the designers passion for fine
jewellery as an art form. Each piece tells a story, beautifully
conveying the emotion and the poetry of the designers vision. This
limited edition collection comprises 11 designs and features a
variety of sizes > Jewellery Historian052
50. Jewellery Historian 053
PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERYMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
52. The elegance of yoga asanas is encapsulated in precious
metals, which projects a light of inner spirit found in yoga
practice. The light plays on the gemstone facets reflecting chakra
colours, connecting your body and soul through precious amulets.
PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
MARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY Jewellery Historian 055
53. > in charms and pendants, to suit the individual taste
of every client. All pieces are made in 18kt gold, pav set with
diamonds of 2 to 10.5 total carat weight, depending on the size and
design. The exclusivity of the YouVdiamonds creations is
highlighted by a very difficult and time-consuming diamond sorting
and precise pave setting process, which took years to develop and
perfect. To create the sought-after effect in every piece, MK Fine
Jewellery specialists go through an extensive amount of diamonds, a
process which takes days to source stones just for one creation.
The magic of the collection shines in every piece, which transforms
under ultraviolet light to unravel the captivating world of
YouVdiamonds. Some diamonds hide an incredible inner light, which
can only be seen in special surroundings. Conveying the design
inspiration, which relates to the importance of self-belief and
self-growth, each creation reveals that we all have wings that
could take us to any heights, any horizons, if only we believe.
Impossible to guess at first glance, the magic inside the jewel
will remain your treasure until you are ready to share it. Maria
used fluorescence to create a really gorgeous collection.
Fluorescence is the visible light that a diamond emits when it is
exposed to an ultraviolet rays. Diamond fluorescence, in its most
simple form, is the effect that ultraviolet (UV) light has on a
diamond. As a gemologist, with studies at the world-known
Gemological Institute of America, Maria used an effect to her
creations that truly makes them magic. Maria uses diamonds that
have very high fluorescence in order to achieve the desired image
under UV light. Each stone is carefully hand-picked to guarantee
perfect fit for each creation. To create this unique effect, the
specialists at Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery, go through an
extensive amount of diamonds, a process which takes days to source
stones just for one creation. The strenght of fluorescence required
to create the desired effect can only be found in 3 to 5 % of the
sorted diamonds, consequently making each piece is a truly valuable
process. Same piece, under different light. Under UV light we can
see the wings, which are hidden under daylight.
PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERYMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
Jewellery Historian056
54. To create these unique creations, the specialists at Maria
Kondakova Fine Jewellery, go through an extensive amount of
diamonds, a process which takes days to source stones just for one
creation..
PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERYMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
Jewellery Historian 057
60. Jewellery Historian 063
PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
MARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
61. Jewellery Historian064 You are unique. There is no one like
you in the world. You deserve to have a special, precious gift that
is completely exclusive and made upon your specification, just as
you desire. There will only be one piece in the world, unique, just
like you.
62. Jewellery Historian 065
PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
MARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
66. Jewellery Historian 069 Maria's ironic designs made with
beautifully crafted carvings give coral a new meaning. Stories
hidden in these jewels are waiting for you to discover them.
PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
MARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
68. Jewellery Historian 071 Natures gift of unique minerals in
vivid, magical colors will accentuate your feminine beauty and
mirror your nature and distinctive character.
PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
MARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
69. promotion education inspiration
70. join us today www.facebook.com/jewelryhistorian
71. cover story
PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERYMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
Jewellery Historian074
72. T h e p a s s i o n a t e a r t i s t M A R I A K O N D A K
O V A The launch and widely anticipated unveiling of the
YouVdiamonds collection at Basel World 2015 attracted the world
ofnMaria Kondakova's jewellery. The magic of the collection shines
in every piece, which transforms under ultraviolet light to unravel
the captivating world of YouVdiamonds, which took years to develop
and perfect. Thoughtful and inspirational design instilled in each
creation showcases the designers passion for fine jewellery as an
art form. Jewellery Historian 075
73. Russian born creative jewellery designer, Maria
Kondakova-Kaltsidis, has had a long but very exciting journey to
get to where she is now. Born in Moscow, Maria spent her childhood
there, growing up in a family which enjoyed travelling and
exploring new places. This instilled curiosity and passion for
expressing herself through art. As a child, she visited studios of
various artists, seeking her own style and learning to play with
form, shape and texture. This creative journey continued as Maria
attended various art courses and learned about history of art.
Impressionism is very close to her heart as impressionists also
tried to capture a certain moment. Maria was inspired to continue
her creative path and decided to go and study in London, at Central
Saint Martins. Starting with a Foundation Course in Art and Design,
Maria continued with a BA in Jewellery Design. This enabled her to
learn to design and create something very personal to her and her
way of expression. Strong concept development ensured that behind
every piece there must be a certain meaning, concept or idea. Saint
Martins was very much about the importance of the concept but in
Italy Maria learned that jewellery can be both aesthetically
pleasant to the eye and comfortable to wear. She was soon able to
communicate and translate her thoughts and feelings in a manner
that is closer to her perception of beauty and to connect Italian
aesthetics with a part of the sole, creating something very
personal. Maria then went on to study at the GIA (Gemological
Institute of America) in London where she learnt about the magical
world of gemstones. She got her General Gemologist Diploma and
launched her own brand in 2007, working with private clients as
well as starting to develop other collections including the
YouVdiamonds collection unveiled at Baselworld 2015. At the same
time as launching her brand, she embarked on another adventure and
started a family. She now has two kids and a supporting husband.
Travel continued to be a big part of Marias life as she lived in
London, Zurich and currently lives in Moscow. Her distinctive
design signature is evident in all pieces as Maria creates modern
classics that combine all multicultural influences. Italian
aesthetics are blended with cutting edge design and her Russian
soul, open to embrace everything new. When did you found the
company? Where? What were you doing before then? The company was
founded in London in 2007, just after graduating from Central Saint
Martins where I was doing a BA in Jewellery Design. What or whom
inspired you to become a jewellery designer? During my time at the
foundation course at Central Saint Martins, I got a chance to try a
number of disciplines and jewellery design was one of them. It
instantly became a passion of mine as it gave me the opportunity to
express my ideas, however big, > Jewellery Historian076
74.
PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERYMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
Jewellery Historian 077
75. > in the smallest forms. Saint Martins was very much
about the importance of the concept but in Italy I learned that
jewellery can be both beautiful and conceptual. I was soon able to
communicate and translate my thoughts and feelings in a manner that
is closer to my perception of beauty and to connect Italian
aesthetics with a part of my sole, creating something personal to
me and my way of expression. How did you progress to where you are
now? I progressed to where I am now through hard work. It took many
years to get to where I am now as I have a family and juggling the
two is difficult at times, but it is important for me to continue
expressing myself through my art and to take the brand to the next
level. Where did your inspiration come from for your YouVdiamond
collection ? The idea was born during my studies at the Gemological
Institute of America, where I learned about fluorescence in
diamonds. The idea of exporing this effect and incorporating into
my designs stayed in my mind for years until I was able to apply it
to a truly personal and unique collection. What is your philosophy
and why you designed wings ? I was inspired by eleents of the
journey one takes through life. The process of formation of an
individual, a personality and a path ahead are all deeply rooted in
oursleves. Even though at times we deviate from our true selves, we
need to stop and reflect, look beyond any covers or shields. We
often forget that throught life we carry an inner light, certain
strength and potenital, which has been gifted to us at birth. This
unique gift can help us reach harmony and desired horizons. All we
need is to believe in oursleves, our ability and strength. But how
we can do that ? Learn to look inside yourself to find the wings
you have been given from the start. What do you highlight with this
collection ? Exploring the notion of purity int eh idea of
childhood and infancy allowed me to highlight the unique identity
and mystery instilled in each baby from birth. Pure angels arrive
with a secret path of the future ahead, a truly secret of whom the
baby is to become and what talents, strength and potential he or
she may possess. So, they are baby angel wings ? The wings are not
just a symbol of the essence of an angel but a symbol of being able
to reach the heights which are meant for each baby from birth. The
mystery of a unique identity is presented in these pieces,
reflecting the eep meaning instilled in each creation. What do you
like and dislike about the jewellery available today? Many
companies now sacrifice design in order to keep costs down. Designs
are more simple and commercial and there arent > Jewellery
Historian078
76.
PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERYMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
Jewellery Historian 079
77. > many companies who hand-make bespoke jewellery.
Everything is becoming mechanized and simplified. It is important
to support craftsmen who put their heart and sole into creating
jewellery. We are not against technology altogether, we are
interested in using it to find creative solutions in order to make
some interesting and innovative designs come to life. It is
important for Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery to support and work
with these amazing craftsmen who translate years of their
experience into making very special pieces. There arent many such
highly skilled creaftsmen left and so we want to work with them and
to preserve their skills and trade as well as to create special
jewellery, pieces of art with their hands. What is your favourite
piece of your jewellery? What are you most proud of creating? I
love all MK Fine Jewellery pieces, as each creation has a special
meaning and story behind it. The latest collection, YouVdiamonds,
is definitely one of my favourite to work on, especially the Sweet
Dreams piece, which is dedicated to my first son. Tanzinite
whispers collection is also very close to my heart because of my
fascination with the stone, with which I got acquainted in its
beautiful motherland Tanzania. We experimented a lot technically
during the creation of this collection, which made it very
interesting for me. >
PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERYMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
Jewellery Historian080
78.
PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERYMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
Jewellery Historian 081
79. > Can clients choose to design their own pieces? Is
there anything you simply couldnt do for them? I am happy to take
on any piece, which inspires me creatively and allows to explore
and innovate. However, I wouldnt take on pieces which go against my
morals or aesthetics. Do you have a typical customer? How would you
define them? So far, all my customers have been people seeking
unique pieces to reflect their own vision and ideas. Most of them
have plenty of expensive jewellery from world-famous jewellery
houses but these pieces do not reflect or highlight their
individuality. Whereas other customers want to invest in something
special which will be dear to them and remind of a special moment
in their life. Mass produced fine jewellery is available to buy in
boutiques worldwide and so does not offer the emotional qualities
my clients are seeking. Now luxury consumers want more exclusive
pieces, they dont want to have the same jewellery as others in
their social. What has been your greatest accomplishment? Combing
work and family life in order to achieve what I have and now moving
on to the next stage and presenting the brand to a wider-audience.
If you werent a jewellery designer, what do you think you would do?
I love to paint and so I think that if I wasnt a jewellery
designer, I would be an artist. I would express my creativity
through paintings. What are your plans for the future? Immediate
plans for the future include taking the brand to the next level and
exploring new markets. Jewellery Historian082
80.
PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERYMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
Jewellery Historian 083
83. Jewellery Historian 087 TAP Jewelry designs evolve from
emotion to (aesthetic) experience and back. Romanticism underlies
the forms of expression within the jewelry. The interaction of dark
and light metals mixed with fine gold and diamonds combine to evoke
a strong sense of mystery and sublime nature. The dia- monds are
bead set upside-down onto the surface in pave or scattered across
the piece. This reverse setting effectively captures and reflects
light in a succession of broad flashes from oblique angles creating
the feeling of twilight. The emotive experience is primary with
passions held over order and the senses are moved into the
pleasures of the imagination. TAP by Todd Pownell is a Cleveland
based jewelry design studio gaining new attention with fresh
compositions. Using combinations of dark and light metals, texture,
inverted diamonds and cage settings; TAP jewelry designs have an
air of mystery by catching the eye and engaging the senses. Their
signature style of bead setting diamonds upside down reflects the
romantic feeling of twilight. "The experience of melting steel rods
together years ago in shop class started me on my journey towards
working with metals and using my hands to make objects. As I
studied and explored metals, I began working on a smaller scale
with nonferrous metals and copper to create miniature metal boxes.
Once I was exposed to silver and gold my seduction was complete and
the decision to make jewelry came naturally." says Todd, while
talking about the beginning of his love affair with precious
metals. "I honed my skills working with fine jewelers and learned
to set many different types of fascinating gemstones which led me
to study gemology. I was mesmerized with the internal prop- erties
of crystal structure, refractive indexes, variations and hardness
of gems. Monetary displays of gems and solely decorative uses were
uninteresting to me and instead I admired gemstones for their
intrinsic properties and their ability to naturally interact with
light. Today, I work as an artist in the tradition of the
independent studio craftsmen and jewelry becomes a vehicle for
expressive desires and nomadic T O D D P O W N E L L RESPECT FOR
THE INNATE PROPERTIES OF THE MATERIALS
84. Jewellery Historian088 The interaction of dark and light
metals mixed with fine gold and diamonds combine to evoke a strong
sense of mystery and sublime nature.
85. Jewellery Historian 089 PhotocourtesyofTAPBYTODDPOWNELL
TAPBYTODDPOWNELL
86. Jewellery Historian090 > I approach the process of
making jewelry with an honest respect for the in- nate qualities of
materials. Noble metals and gemstones have strong qualities of
order and structure within their internal nature and this arouses
my sense of admiration and attention for the craft of making
jewelry objects. My work begins with the thought and recollection
that procrastination is the thief of time as in Night-Thoughts by
Edward Young. With trepidation I enter the process of making
jewelry (which is always chaos, yet filled with joys and struggle
too). The chaos of the process conspires with my respect of the
material to create finished pieces that exist with those traces of
chaos and order. The intended visual effect is similar to the
tensions of a gathering storm in the night sky or the effect low
angled light cast across a landscape has upon the gazing eye. In
2008 Todd focussed on developing his design jewelry line; Tap by
Todd Pownell that has since grown from a two to a four person work-
shop. It is sold in stores and galleries throughout the United
States. Todd has taught and given numerous lectures and workshops
focus- ing on topics including, stone setting, fabrication and
sharing incites into building a viable studio. He is a Graduate
Gemologist whose work has been featured in publications including
the Lark Books series. In 2013 was named recipient of Clevelands
Seth Rosenberg prize and was recently honored with the Mort Abelson
Best New Designer of the Year Award. Todd is also a Member of
Ethical Metalsmiths, Jewelers for social and environmental
responsibility, who support ethical mining, sourcing their
materials in the most responsible manner while operating their
studios with green practices. Jewelers for social and environmental
PhotocourtesyofTAPBYTODDPOWNELL TAPBYTODDPOWNELL
87. Jewellery Historian 091 PhotocourtesyofTAPBYTODDPOWNELL
TAPBYTODDPOWNELL
93. Jewellery Historian 097 The intended visual effect is
similar to the tensions of a gathering storminthenightskyor
theeffectlowangledlight castacrossalandscape has upon the gazing
eye.
95. Jewellery Historian 099 PhotocourtesyofTAPBYTODDPOWNELL
TAPBYTODDPOWNELL
96. Jewellery Historian100
97. Jewellery Historian 101
98. Jewellery Historian102
99. Jewellery Historian 103 PhotocourtesyofTAPBYTODDPOWNELL
TAPBYTODDPOWNELL
100. GET ALL ISSUES F R E E D O W N L O A D F R E E S U B S C R
I T I O N
101. www.jewelleryhistorian.com
102. Jewellery Historian106
103. Jewellery Historian 107
Fromthebeginningofourcivilization,thetimesofZoroasterand
Babylon,manhasattemptedtoreconnecttotheuniversewithits
magnificentandmysteriousbeautyofshimmeringlightsinthe night sky.
Jasmin Djahanchahi has always been driven by a passion to
createbeautyinfluencedbyherlovefortheancientZoroastrian
valuesandherappreciationofmodernwesternart.Designingis her world,
her essential way of expression. Jazychic in synergy with Stockert
& Cie. launches its first
collectionofhighjewelrycreations.Aseriesoftrulyuniqueand
masterfully crafted zodiac pendants, innovative and enchanting,
strikingly elegant and very precious. in touch with the stars
JazyChic
105. Jasmin Djahanchahi has always been driven by a passion to
create beauty influenced by her love for the ancient Zoroastrian
values and her appreciation of modern western art. Designing is her
world, her essential way of expression. Being of German and Persian
heritage and having lived in many different locations worldwide
gives her a truly multifaceted flair, reflected in all of her work.
With a solid background in high-end interior design with her own
line of furniture the change of scale was tremendous and greatly
seductive. Her creations embody simplicity and a fine sense of
harmony and balance, her very personal translation of
unconventional wisdom into objects of desire. Timeless objects that
reveal unlimited imagination and a fresh vision of glamour intended
to grace the modern woman and to accentuate her beauty and
elegance. From the beginning of our civilization, the times of
Zoroaster and Babylon, man has attempted to reconnect to the
universe with its magnificent and mysterious beauty of shimmering
lights in the night sky. In the pursuance of Excellency only the
very best of materials and the most skillful artisans have been
selected to manufacture Jazychics unique pieces of jewelry. This
collection was created with the profound intention to unite the
most precious materials in the finest combinations. Love for
texture and color combined with great attention to detail have
resulted in truly desirable objects that display diligent German
Expertise in craftsmanship of the highest quality. Manufactured
entirely by STOCKERT & Cie. in Pforzheim, the Gold town of
Germany, all pieces are of genuine value and will be possessed and
worn with joy and proudly passed on to the next generation.
JazyChic Jewellery Historian 109 in touch with the stars
106. >shimmering stars of the night sky. About the complex
world of our emotions, our spirit and our self esteem. By the means
of exquisite materials, shapes and colors, fluid light reflections
and playful textures the opulence of deep thought is captured in
splendor. A most glamorous gift that will light up the heart of
each woman. Multifaceted in design with passion and precision,
translated and manufactured immaculately by Stockert & Cie.
with the finest, intricate craftsmanship in the most luxurious way.
This collection was created with the profound intention to unite
the most precious materials in the finest combinations. Love for
texture and color combined with great attention to detail have
resulted in truly desirable objects that display diligent German
Expertise in craftsmanship of the highest quality. Manufactured
entirely by STOCKERT & Cie. in Pforzheim, the Gold town of
Germany, all pieces are of genuine value and will be possessed and
worn with joy and proudly passed on to the next generation. In
addition to clear-cut design, Stockert employs the most modern
standards to fashion its products. Each piece of jewellery in their
Collection is unique and carefully created with ultimate dedication
by experienced goldsmiths and precious stone setters, handcraft at
its highest form. Most precious materials Stockert & Cie. uses
only first class materials from all over the world. Eighteen-karat
gold or platinum is preferred in combination with precious stones
in their natural tones, high quality pearls and selected diamonds.
Inner attitudes take on unique forms An ambitious company since
1879: Christian Stockert of Stockert & Cie. leads this business
successfully into its fourth generation. This internationally savvy
businessman is quite at home with his collection around the world.
Inspite of this inherent cosmopolitan flair, down- to-earth virtues
such as diligence, discipline, honesty and precision are highly
evident at Stockert & Cie. This company stands tall in
Pforzheim, Germany with its team of 18 hand- picked staff, each
specially selected for their singularly skilled expertise.
Jewellery Historian110
107. Jewellery Historian 111 PhotocourtesyofJAZYCHIC
JAZYCHIC
108. Jewellery Historian112 Gemini pendant Endlessly charming,
in free spirit and youthful exuberance with a constant appetite to
expand the mental hori- zon. Chrysoprase stones exhilarate your
optimism.
109. Jewellery Historian 113 PhotocourtesyofJAZYCHIC
JAZYCHIC
111. Jewellery Historian 115 CAPRICORN pendant Immensely
disciplined, attentive and dedicated. Perceived by others as very
stylish and cultured, with a profound resource of emotional
strength and earthy endurance. Turquoise stones magically "protect"
your health.
112. Jewellery Historian116 CANCER pendant Radiantly feminine,
gentle and supportive with an extraordinary intensity to protect
the loved ones in complete devotion. Pink Tourmalines present you
extra joy and well being.
113. Jewellery Historian 117 PhotocourtesyofJAZYCHIC
JAZYCHIC
114. Jewellery Historian118 LEO pendant Sincerely generous,
dignified and magnetic with a love for luxury and exclusivity in
splendor. Allow your intuition and clairvoyance to be powered by
Diamonds.
115. Jewellery Historian 119 PhotocourtesyofJAZYCHIC
JAZYCHIC
116. Subscribe for FREE Don't miss any issue. Visit today
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118. Over 275 years of rich heritage Garrard has formed a
reputation for distinguished craftsmanship, utmost attention to
detail and everlasting prestige, emphasised by the commissions
received from Royalty all around the world. With over 275 years of
rich heritage,Garrardhasmetthechallengetoharnessitsunique past with
modern day relevance. Garrards combination of tradition and
contemporary design is synonymous with
creatingmagnificentjewellerytoday,tobecomeheirloomsfor tomorrow.
Jewellery Historian 123 GARRARD
119. Jewellery Historian124 2 8 0 y e a r s o f r i c h h e r i
t a g e GARRARD Garrards history of luxury and grandeur began in
1735 whenjournalentriesstartwithaBritishRoyalcommission for
Frederick, Prince of Wales, followed by many more for international
royalty and the upper echelons of
societyworldwide.Garrardhassincehadthehonourof serving each
successive King and Queen of Great Britain. With over 275 years of
rich heritage, Garrard has met the challenge to harness its unique
past with modern dayrelevance.Garrardscombinationoftraditionand
contemporary design is inspiring. Their in-house design team
creates innovative collections as well as unique one-of-a-kind
treasures using only the finest gems in the world. Their High
Jewellery, is handcrafted in London. Each piece is
carefullyandintricatelydesignedfortheclientseeking
perfectionintheaestheticandverifiesthattheGarrard design ethos is
abundant with luxury, comfort and style. Garrard has an illustrious
story with the Royal family. This illustrious story began in 1840
when Prince Albert commissioned the house to create a striking
sapphire andwhitediamondclusterbroochasaweddinggiftto his future
wife, Queen Victoria of England. The great romance blossomed with
nine children, of which the eldest son, Edward, the Prince of
Wales, would commissionGarrardforadiamondandpearlparureas a gift to
his future bride, Princess Alexandra of Denmark in 1863. Garrard
continued to serve the British Royal family and by 1919, the firm
was credited for designing and crafting Queen Marys Fringe Tiara.
Inspired by emerging Russian trends, the tiara was a cherished
modern piece and later worn by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II on
her wedding day in 1947. In 1981 Charles, the Prince of Wales,
chose a Garrard sapphire and diamond cluster engagement ring. The
vibrant and striking ring worn by Diana, Princess of Wales was
bequeathed to Prince William, Duke of Cambridge and presented to
Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge upon their engagement in 2011. A
Garrard engagement ring preserves its classic beauty becoming a
cherished heirloom to be passed down through generations. Garrard
celebrated its 280th anniversary with the launch of its exquisite
new Bow collection at the 2015 Baselworld fair. The Bow collection
features elegant signature pieces, crafted in rose gold and
delicately highlighted in diamonds, as well as awe-inspiring
diamond creations including contemporary up-the-ear earrings and
double-finger ring. The collection includes two remarkable High
Jewellery necklaces, embracing the Garrard values of traditional
craftsmanship and forward-thinkingdesign.Theremagnificentpiecescan
be worn in a multitude of ways, creating a complete, matching High
Jewellery set. In its modern day interpretation, the bow is a
symbol of celebration,asaribbonisoftentiedasamementoofan
anniversary or birthday, marking a special occasion in
life.EachtimelesspieceoftheBowcollectioniscreated
fromasoftflowingribbonofgoldanddiamonds,gently tied in a bow to
capture an everlasting moment of celebration that will appeal to
women around the world. Garrard. Creating magnificent jewellery
today, to become heirlooms of tomorrow.
120. Jewellery Historian 125 PhotocourtesyofGARRARDGARRARD
134. Jewellery Historian 139 PhotocourtesyofGARRARDGARRARD
135. Download your own copy
136. You can download every issue for your personal use. For
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137. Jewellery Historian142 Pink tourmaline and diamond ring
handcrafted with a 15.03 carat cushion pink tourmaline center stone
accented with 0.77 carats of brilliant diamond rounds set in
platinum and 18K rose gold. Ring by OMI Priv PhotocourtesyofOMIPRIV
OMIPRIV
138. Tourmaline probably holds the first place among the most
colorful gemstones known. A fact that most people do not know is
that tourmalines are not simply pretty gems but they are a group of
minerals that contains more than 10 species with complex chemical
compositions, which are responsible for the gems beautiful variety
of hues. Tourmaline possible colours range from colorless to pure
black, including all the rainbow hues and all tones possible, while
it is also very famous for the amazing combinations of several
colours that occur together in one crystal. The name tourmaline is
said to derive from a Sinhalese word meaning mixed colored stones
originally applied to groups of gemstones of various species. One
of the major sources of tourmaline is South America where many
misnomers are used to describe the different varieties. For example
green tourmaline is often erroneously referred to as Brazilian
emerald or blue tourmaline is wrongfully called Brazilian sapphire,
as a reference to those famous gems. Because of tourmalines wide
variety of possible colours it has often been used to imitate or
was mistaken for other gemstones. One of those historic
misunderstandings is a piece from the Russian Crown jewels
collection that for years was though to carry a large ruby but the
gem was later found to be a red tourmaline. Tourmaline was also
prized through history. Chinese emperors admired this gemstones
beauty and were buying large quantities that they often carved in
intricate shapes for practical and decorative objects such as
buttons and toggles for the clothing of the royals and the wealthy.
Chinese empress Tzu Hsi loved tourmaline so much especially the
pink one mined in California- that after using it as an ornament
throughout her life, she requested a tourmaline pillow for her
eternal rest. Some objects of sensational beauty and craftsmanship
such as snuff bottles carved out of tourmaline are seen in
Tourmaline Jewellery Historian 143 The unique breathtaking beauty
of gems by Eva Kountouraki
139. Jewellery Historian144 > Tourmaline, apart from its
beauty, is naturally gifted with some features that are of great
interest to the scientific community. In fact, tourmaline is a
pyroelectric and piezoelectric mineral, meaning that it can develop
an electrostatic charge when heated or pressed along specific
directions. Its piezoelectricity is a useful property that has
found many industrial applications like in the production of
pressure gauges for sensitive equipment for submarines or even for
the measurements of bomb blast power. The Dutch traders who brought
tourmaline to the European markets were using these properties in
their everyday life, before those were scientifically proven. In
fact, they would heat tourmaline crystals by rubbing them, in order
to clean the ashes from their pipes, as they have found out that
tourmalines electrical charge could attract small particles and
dust.> An amazing Paraiba tourmaline ring by Carla Amorim
PhotocourtesyofCARLAAMORIM CARLAAMORIM
140. Jewellery Historian 145 PhotocourtesyofDANIELAVILLEGAS
DIANIELAVILLEGAS A gorgeous ring by Daniela Villegas with a
watermelon tourmaline
141. Jewellery Historian146 One of the rarest and most highly
prized and priced tourmalines is the one discovered in 1989 in
Paraba Brazil, and named after this location. The paraba
tourmalines exhibit an incredibly intense blue-green colour with
such a high saturation that is often described as neon blue. These
amazing earrings with paraiba tourmalines by Orlov, has been
previously shown in our issue 3
142. Jewellery Historian 147 PhotocourtesyofORLOV
ORLOVjewelry
143. > Tourmaline is breathtakingly beautiful in all its
colours and the combinations of them, and the most intense and
highly saturated hues are the ones that are preferred in the market
and require high prices. Intense reds, mysterious blues and pure
greens, multicolored or watermelon a beautiful variety of
tourmaline that resembles this fruit as it has a green outer rim
and pink to red core-, you can find a tourmaline to satisfy every
taste! One of the rarest and most highly prized and priced
tourmalines is the one discovered in 1989 in Paraba Brazil, and
named after this location. The paraba tourmalines exhibit an
incredibly intense blue- green colour with such a high saturation
that is often described as neon blue. This exquisite type of
tourmaline has been found also in some African mines; still the
high quality Brazilian material often requires premium prices in
the market. In order to be called paraba, this tourmaline must
exhibit equal amounts of blue and green pleochroic hues and have
vivid saturation. Too blue, too green, too dark or too light,
cannot qualify as paraba and will not fetch the prices of a true
high quality paraba, although they may still be gorgeous.
Tourmaline is a hard and durable gemstone that with proper care can
last for centuries. However it requires sensitive handling -just
like all the precious things- as well as protection from harsh use
and sharp blows. Humans were always dazzled by the beauty of
tourmalines colours. An ancient Egyptian legend has it that
tourmaline has travelled a long journey from the earths core
towards the sun and collected all the rainbow colours along the
way.. Because its beautiful colours are directly connected to the
chemistry of the environment in which it forms, slight changes in
the chemical and physical conditions result in variations in the
colours of the growing crystal, naturally giving almost all
tourmalines a unique look and character. Jewellery Historian148
Earrings set with Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds by Carla Amorim
PhotocourtesyofCARLAAMORIM CARLAAMORIM
144. Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of
goldsmiths and jewelers. Succeeding unprecedented results in the
practice and theory of gemology, analyzing and identifying
thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the
prestigious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which
includes specific studies in diamond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds
Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate Colored Stones
Diploma). Her studies in the jewelry field continued and Eva got
her Jewelry Business Management Diploma,
gainingspecializedknowledgeabout all the aspects of the jewelry
industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer
aided design. Evas brilliant path in the field of gemology was
crowned by her collaborationwiththeItalianbranchof GIA. Eva
received special training from professional and experienced
gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more
than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA,
transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds,
gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around
world. AttheJewelleryHistorianweareproud to have in our team Eva
Kountouraki andhermonthlycolumnineveryissue. Every month, discover
a new gemstone and the unique breathtaking beauty of gems. Eva
Kountouraki Jewellery Historian 149 These OMI Priv Pink tourmaline
and diamond earrings handrafted with 11.26 carats of pear shaped
pink tourmalines accented with 0.62 carats of brilliant diamond
rounds set in 18K rose gold. PhotocourtesyofOMIPRIV OMIPRIV
145. Jewellery Historian150 In every issue, we handpick the
finest jewellery for you to choose , enabling you to add a
sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your
life. In this issue we invite you in our "Printemps animalier". Our
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