IZKI - Harat al-Yemen Brochure

Izki

Harat al YemenMinistry of Heritage & Culture, Sultanate of Oman

Professor Soumyen BandyopadhyayDr Giamila QuattroneDr Martin GoffrillerDr Habib RezaJohn HarrisonDr Haitham al-Abri

Contributors to fieldwork documentation and masterplanning

7Contents

Introduction 6

Harat al-Yemen 14

Heritage Management and Development Master Plan 37

9Introduction

Izki has had a special place in Omani history. Many think of this straggling oasis as the oldest contin-uously inhabited town oasis in Oman. Hafit-type tombs known by their distinctive form in the nearby Wadi Halfayn have been dated to around the 3rd millennium BCE. Izki is also the likely sub-ject of a text from the famed Ishtar Slab inscrip-tion dating to around 640 BCE. It outlines the visit of a certain ruler, Pade of the kingdom of Qade residing in the town of Iske, who brought tributes to the Assyrian king, Ashurbanipal at Nineveh. Nu-merous archaeological finds indicate that this was one of the most important points of transit through the Oman Mountains.

The oasis of Izki, which at its peak was certain-ly one of the largest in central Oman, lies about 120 km to the southwest of Muscat in the up-per reaches of the great Wadi Halfayn. The oa-sis is located on the southern end of the Samail pass, which connects the Batinah coast to central Oman. The location of Izki is not only strategically important, but also affords it with a large amount of water from a number of falaj (pl. aflaj) irrigation channels. These originate from the Falaj al-Malki one of the five Omani aflaj inscribed on the UN-ESCO World Heritage Site (WHS) list, which is said to originally have had over 120 feeders.

The oasis originally extended for almost 15 km,

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from Imti (also known as Muti) in the north to Zukayt in the south. Today, however, due to climat-ic change and changed modes of livelihood the agricultural area is reduced to a core area com-prising the palm groves around the settlement quarters (s. harah, pl. harat) of al-Yemen, al-Nizar, Seddi, al-Raha, Maghyuth and Bani Hussain. The two main settlements al-Nizar and al-Yemen, lo-cated atop a conglomerate ridge 10 m above the level of Wadi Halfayn, runs roughly north-south along the western bank of the wadi. This location allowed the inhabitants of both settlements to oc-cupy the high ground while remaining close to their farm lands and water sources. Neither settle-

Introduction

ment has direct access to flowing water, though a number of communal wells are present in both locations.

Located in the vicinity of the settlements are a number of Islamic and pre-Islamic cemeteries, the largest of which lies across from al-Yemen and al-Nizar on the eastern bank of Wadi Halfayn. The earliest graves at this location have been dated to as early as the Early Iron Age (EIA, about 1300 BCE), often consisting of enclosures made from large rounded boulders. Their unique appearance has led archaeologists to call these Izki graves.This short account on one of the main settlement

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areas of Izki oasis, Harat al-Yemen, aims to provide an overview of its architectural and urban qualities. This outline is based on extensive documentation work undertaken by the Ministry of Heritage and Culture (MHC), in collaboration with the UK-based research centre, Architecture and Cultural Herit-age of India, Arabia and the Maghreb (ArCHIAM; www.archiam-centre.com), attached to the Man-chester School of Architecture. The historical ac-count is followed by an overview of the proposed Heritage Management Plan (HMP), resulting in a master plan with explicit focus on how heritage could remain meaningful for future generations.

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Harat al-Yemen is a clearly defined and self-con-tained urban unit located within a well-preserved walled enclosure of roughly trapezoidal form. There has been no modern development within the enclosure itself, allowing Harat al-Yemen to retain its vernacular fabric in its entirety and mak-ing it appropriate for a detailed study of the urban and architectural character, and the social struc-ture that existed immediately before 1970. The surrounding area, however, has seen significant change especially through the rapid growth of new areas of housing. These have extended far into the palm groves and outlying agricultural lands, impacting heavily on the traditional agrarian structure of the oasis. The settlement is located on a relatively level pla-teau, at around 550 m above sea level. Though the terrain drops slightly on its eastern edge, the generally flat ground allowed for a regular organ-ization of the site. Divided into neatly arranged blocks, al-Yemen is unusual in its orthogonal or-ganisation when compared to the highly irregular and organic standard usually observed in Omani urban environments (e.g., Bahla WHS, Nizwa and

Harat al-Yemen

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Manah).

Al-Yemen is currently accessible from north and east via two gates, although there are clear ev-idences of two additional access points: one on the western side and another on the southwest-ern corner, which are now blocked. There may be the archaeological evidence of yet another gate on the eastern side. The site contains indications of various phases of destruction, reconstruction and expansion, with successive layers often build-ing upon earlier foundations. The oldest buildings appear to have been concentrated on its south-ern end, as a cluster of irregular houses with sin-gle-course, large stone foundations. This early settlement may have once extended as far south as the northern end of al-Nizar, as suggested by Iron Age pottery and isolated masonry founda-tions identified by Schreiber in this area.

The unusual grid-like plan of al-Yemen a lat-er, possibly a late-eighteenth or even nineteenth century CE imposition is dictated by a series of straight avenues running at more or less right an-gles to each other. The western avenue (Sikkat al-Ali), running north-south from the Friday Mosque (Masjid al-Jamaa/ Jami) to the northern gate, clearly lines up with the eastern enclosure wall of the mosque, suggesting a conscious relationship established between these two features at some point. Crossing this dominant passage, two streets running east-west, broadly follow the northern boundary wall. The northernmost of these streets, Sikkat as-Sharq, connects with the eastern gate, hence its name. This eastern entrance is flanked externally on the south by a communal meeting hall (s. sablah, pl. sbal), and inside on the north by the mosque, Masjid Bani Sabt.

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Further south, closer of the Friday Mosque, anoth-er street originating from the now-blocked west-ern gate, turns south after it crosses Sikkat al-Ali. A number of lanes and passages break down the urban fabric further and provide access to houses and communal structures.

On entry through the northern gate, a large open space is first visible, defined mainly by the exten-sive area of houses belonging to the Daramikah tribe. Sablat al-Ali, a prominent communal meet-ing hall fronted by an accessible, raised terrace, is to the east of the entrance and define the northern edge of the square. Given the extensive destruc-tion and rebuilding that took place at al-Yemen, this square is likely to have changed configura-tion on several occasions. Over time, it played an important role during communal festivities, wed-dings and eid celebrations. At the southern end of Sikkat al-Ali, closer to the Friday Mosque, the street widens again into an open space, defined on the south by the low enclosure of the mosque and on the west by the well associated with it (Tawi al-Jamaa) and the raised channel that ex-tends from it. The eastern gate does not have an entrance square within the settlement, although this has been partially established outside with the extended sablah defining a raised terrace. Apart from the blocked western gate near the Fri-day Mosque, a further blocked off ramped access possibly for bringing in cattle at the southwest corner existed in the area behind the mosque qi-blah wall, where the cattle was kept overnight (the area known as Haram al-Jamaa). The inclusion of the Friday Mosque within the walled quarter is yet another unusual feature of settlement layout in al-Yemen.

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Defence

The trapezoidal form of the defensive wall broad-ens towards the north. The enclosure consists of a solid masonry wall, which at its maximum is around 3m in height and 2m in thickness. The wall itself is built in a double-shell technique medium sized boulders forming the inner and outer faces with an aggregate, sand and clay infill. At some partial-ly collapsed sections a third interior shell is visible,

hinting at a gradual strengthening process of the walls. A broad sentry walk ran behind most parts of the wall, which had a crenelated parapet made from mud brick. Three towers, different in shape and size sug-gesting separate developments, protected the corners of the settlement. The largest and most impressive of these was the tower, al-Qalat, po-sitioned in the southeastern corner to control the no-mans-land between al-Yemen and al-Nizar and overlooked the Yaaribah fort. Apart from serv-ing as a defensive structure this tower appears to have also functioned as a prison. The upper levels contained a number of embrasures and gun loops covering the southern approaches, and a stairwell leading to the roof. The tower at the northwestern corner contains at its centre a well, Tawi al-Burj, accessible through a low vaulted passage from the Daramikah area. In addition to strong urban fortifications in the form of walls, towers and gatehouses, the oasis as a whole was protected from incursions by a system of around fifteen to twenty visually connected watch towers located on hilltops which provided a complete overview of the surrounding territory. Finally there was also the large Yaaribah period fort located close to the southern edge of al-Yem-en, which was reconstructed during the early-19th century.

Communal Structures

Among the most prominent public buildings of al-Yemen were the two mosques, the larg-est of which was a Friday Mosque (Masjid al-Ja-maa) that probably started life as an independ-

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Left: View into a dwelling's courtyard space

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ent mosque outside the settlement. This is a large mosque with three transversal bays separated by two rows of substantial mud-brick columns. The shallow-niched mihrab and the qiblah wall are still in good condition, though the roof has col-lapsed in large parts. The other mosque, Masjid Bani Sabt much smaller in size was restored fairly recently. The access to the high, east-facing terrace is through a reconstructed ramp (the ac-cess originally might have been stepped) running alongside Sikkat as-Sharq. The prayer hall is ac-cessed frontally from the terrace. Neither mosque remains in use today.

Associated with the grand mosque is a well house, Tawi al-Jamaa, which used to provide water for ablution during prayer time, and probably also for domestic purposes. Another well, Tawi al-Maiwa, located on a wide street running parallel to and south of Sikkat as-Sharq, appears to have been the major source of water within the walled quar-ter. A third well, Tawi al-Burj, is present at the cen-tre of the northwestern tower, as already indicated. In addition, there is one private well, which might have begun life as a communal facility. However, the women generally collected water from the fa-laj channel, Falaj al-Mahduth nearby, and it would appear that the wells were conceived mainly with long periods of strife in mind.

There also remain a number of communal meet-ing halls, which were usually associated with spe-cific tribes and their associated client groups. Dis-tinctively, at least 3 of these were placed against the defensive city walls with their plinths raised to the level of the sentry walk. Sablat al-Ali, next to the northern gate, was for the use of the entire settlement, as was the sablah immediately out-

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largely following the spatial type prevalent in this part, some dwellings however show typological affinity with Bowshar and other coastal areas, sug-gesting possible political connections and emu-lation. With certain exceptions there is an urgent need for the preservation of al-Yemens dwellings.

side the eastern gate. In addition, these semi-pub-lic spaces served as reception halls and meeting places for guests and as overnight accommoda-tion for visitors. Another, located close to the south-east corner, was used as a temporary confinement place for minor offenders. In addition, rooms within houses were used as tribal and family receptions. Within the settlement there were also a small num-ber of shops, a Quranic school (madrasah) and four grinding facilities (raha), of which three were locat-ed in open air.

Dwellings

The dwellings of al-Yemen were all built exclusive-ly from mud brick, though the shallow topsoil ne-cessitated the construction of at times substantial masonry foundations to counteract rising damp and erosion. Unlike at other sites in the region, such as Birkat al-Mawz, for example, the local stone usually comes in the form of rounded boulders of varying sizes. This was usually quarried out of the conglomerate or collected from the wadi bed, and often required significant amount of mud mortar to maintain structural cohesion.

Most dwellings throughout the settlement were single storied and often with open courtyards, though several of the higher status structures, such as the Daramikah quarter, were spatially substantial with upper floors, at times set onto the city wall. Compared to other settlements in the region the architecture of al-Yemen appears to have been less distinctive, although this is most likely due to the successive rebuilding phases the settlement underwent. This also explains the existence of an unusually high number of courtyards compared to other settlements of the Dakhiliyah region. While

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The eventual expectation for the future of the nu-merous vernacular settlements of central Oman is their reoccupation in some form, and their re-use and reintegration into the countrys urban landscape as active participants in its economy. In the long term, tourism, energy production, ag-riculture, as well as a host of associated creative industries, will ensure not just the survival of these ancient towns and villages, but also their sustained growth over future ages into a post-oil economy. Their varied nature in terms of morphology, loca-tion and size demands a high degree of adapt-ability in the measures proposed for their revitali-sation, the foundation of which must lie in a clear understanding of their past usage, their historical and socio-cultural significance, and their individu-alised future potential.

The master plan aims to take a holistic approach to development and conservation in al-Yemen, keeping in mind an even broader context of the need to consider such issues for the entire oasis of Izki and current approaches being adopted with-in the Dakhiliyah region (e.g., in the Bahla WHS, Nizwa, Manah, Birkat al-Mawz, etc.) as a whole. However, to optimise the use of resources and keeping in mind time constraints, the master plan

Heritage Management and Development Master Plan

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would emphasise a phased approach to address and safeguard key development and conserva-tion needs of al-Yemen. The phasing plan would take into account the established priority action areas and structures. Furthermore, a key issue would be the physical state of individual struc-tures, their ownership and the diverse approach-es to conservation and development those would demand.

There would be a focus on tourism as the key economic driver of development, consisting of a cultural experience zone, short-stay accommo-dation, infrastructure, and associated business opportunities, such as catering and commercial outlets. Local tourism and appreciation of the rich built heritage would be encouraged by allowing erstwhile al-Yemen residents now residing else-where the opportunity to buy holiday homes. As-sociated with tourism, and forming an integral part of the proposal, would be the emphasis given to traditional crafts production, where tourists would have the opportunity to observe such craft pro-duction at first hand and buy artefacts produced on site through traditional methods.

Parts of the site would to be devoted to the de-

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velopment and use of alternative technology re-lated to agricultural production and energy gen-eration. The term technology, here, is used in the broadest sense, ranging from the reduction of over-reliance on technology to the embracing of sophisticated scientific and technological pro-cesses and methods. Such technology will focus on developing intelligent, alternative ways of food production, small-scale and low-tech cropping, to the harnessing of solar energy for meeting the energy needs of the community. Alternative ways of achieving comfort within dwellings by moving away from heavy reliance on air conditioning is to be implemented in the eco-housing develop-ment.

A parallel concentration on education and training in the fields of tourism, traditional crafts, agricul-ture and energy production would be established, possibly in conjunction with the local higher ed-ucation institution, the University of Nizwa and other governmental (e.g., the Public Authority for Craft Industries, PACI) and non-governmental (e.g., Omani Association for the Arts, Historical As-sociation, Oman Photographic Society, etc.) bod-ies. A secondary focus on providing public spaces for events for the local community, such as wed-dings and other festivities, would also form part of the proposal.

Settlement infrastructureDevelopment of an integrated modern infrastruc-ture provision of water and electricity supply, and waste management system was crucial to elevate environmental standards within the settlement and to attract and manage tourism. All new and existing infrastructural elements related to elec-trical and water supply provisions would be laid

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underground or buried within walls. Appropriate-ly located and concealed solar panels are envis-aged to provide for at least part of the electricity demand. Given the presence of fresh water in the falaj no significant piped water supply system is envisaged. However, new programmatic inser-tions will require water storage and purification fa-cilities.

A new infrastructure of ecological toilets and wa-terless urinals are to be installed for individual properties and public toilets, as and where nec-essary. Removal of all debris and waste (organic and inorganic) and the creation of defined points of (modern) waste disposal along the streets, pas-sages and civic spaces would be a priority. Ap-propriate collecting and channelling measures should be put in place to divert storm water from the settlement into the gardens and to prevent fa-laj water contamination.

The western gate will be unblocked to ease ac-cess to the interior of the settlement and allow for a one-way system for transport vehicles. To retain the urban layout and spatial appearance al-Yem-en will not be publicly accessible to cars. Instead, two parking opportunities will be constructed outside the northern gate and at the western gate for visitors and workers. A paved route will enter through the eastern gate and give access to the principal quarters and public spaces before exit-ing again via the west gate. The rest of the settle-ment will remain pedestrianized with designated paths and discovery routes for visitors.

The square inside the northern gate would pro-vide the first experience of the settlements herit-age, with information and heritage management

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centre located within this area. The aim would be to bring back the original definition and charac-teristic of the square, employing a combination of consolidation and redevelopment measures to the northern gate and its ancillary structures. The visitors would walk in through this gate on to the square with a hard-standing surface for oc-casional car parking. The remains of the sablah are to be consolidated; however, the structure is to be largely rebuilt to provide reception to, and the main information point for, arriving tourists and as backdrop for outdoor performances and talks. The square will host both tourism related activi-ties and performances, as well as reintroduce its traditional role as a setting for some communal festivities and performances.

A tannur or ceremonial roasting pit located im-mediately next to the north-eastern tower could be utilised as part of providing Omani food dur-ing receptions held in the square. The surround-ing buildings are to be developed variously and the fabric restored, with the experience enhanced through atmospheric lighting to provide a tradi-tional spatial experience. To the east, the Darami-kah quarter the most distinguished ensemble of buildings near the northern gate will form the core of the cultural experience. Beyond this the courtyard-focused buildings will provide oppor-tunities for tourists to observe craft production at first hand and the shops fronting the streets will offer on sale the goods produced.

A communal event area is being proposed at the heart of the settlement, which would cater for local other civic and religious celebrations (e.g., weddings, eid, etc.), bringing the tourist commu-nity in direct contact with the local population. The

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cultural exchange dimension through this would be significant.

The Daramikah quarter is among the most archi-tecturally significant quarters in al-Yemen and it is proposed to that this area be restored and rebuilt to its original character. There may be a need for redevelopment in certain areas, where addition-al accommodation could be introduced through sensitive design. Important ceiling decorations will require careful restoration. The area will serve an important role in interpreting the settlements past through installations, spatial evocations, ar-tefacts, photographs and reconstruction images, adequately supported by library and museum collections. The first floors of houses within the Daramikah quarter will be used for short-term ac-commodation for distinguished guests, visiting artists and scholars. A variety of supporting facili-ties, including a food-court in this area, will com-plete the cultural experience quarter and will cater to the needs of visitors and locals alike. The food-court will create additional cultural performance and event space close to the main entrance square. Additional facilities are to be located close to the eastern gate as well as the reopened west-ern gate. These gates will also allow service vehi-cle access within the settlement.

Short stay tourist accommodation would be lo-cated in the central area of the settlement. The general spatial organisation and external appear-ance of the buildings will be retained though inte-riors will necessarily be adapted to requirements through sensitive interventions and redevelop-ment. Upper stories may be expanded and roof spaces could be used for open-air accommoda-tion in conjunction with semi-open spaces and

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terraces. Inner courtyards will serve to ventilate and illuminate ground floors. The expectation is to provide accommodation and services for no more than fifty beds within this zone.

The master plan proposes that portions of the settlement be devoted to holiday homes to be developed and offered to returning al-Yemen residents. The chosen location for holiday homes would provide excellent views east across the oa-sis to the Jabal Al Akhdar Mountains. These homes will be supported by communal facilities located between them but will also be in proximity to the communal event space and commercial outlets. In addition, an area is allocated for the develop-ment of eco-houses to be used as additional short-stay accommodation or holiday homes for private purchase or leasing. The eco-houses will be designed and built to state-of-the-art ecolog-ical knowledge and technology, adhering to their heritage context.

The settlement of al-Yemen would offer opportu-nities for local craftsmen and artisans to showcase and sell their works to visitors. In order to provide not only shop-front space but also production space on site, an entire zone would be allocat-ed for this purpose, integrating the northern street into an ambulatory route of experiential and com-mercial value. This is to be extended south along selected streets to provide enhanced commercial capacity.

One of the prime foci of the al-Yemen heritage management plan is to create a sustainable lo-cal economy based on a variety of sources of in-come and a qualified work force. The plan aims to establish at al-Yemen education and training

facilities for the fields of tourism, crafts, agriculture and alternative energy, to function in conjunction with the immediate centres of production within the settlement and in collaboration with national institutions, such as ministries and universities.

ArCHIAM. 2012. Heritage Management and DevelopmentPlan for Hrat al-Yemen, Izk (Oman). Ministry of Heritageand Culture, Oman. 305pp. ISBN: 978-99969-0-307-6

Damluji, S.S. 1998. The Architecture of Oman. Reading: Garnett.Bandyopadhyay 2005.

The Deconstructed Courtyard: Dwellings ofCentral Oman. In Edwards, B., Sibley, M., Hakimi, M. &Land, P. (eds.)

Courtyard Housing: Past, Present and Future:109-121. Abingdon (Oxon) & New York: Taylor & Francis.

Cleuziou S., & Tosi M., 2008, In the Shadow of the Ancestors: The Prehistoric Foundations of the Early Arabian Civilization in Oman, by, Ministry of Heritage & Culture, Sultanate of Oman

Wilkinson J.,. Water and Tribal Settlement in South-East Arabia:A Study of the Aflj of Oman. Oxford: Clarendon Press. 1977

Bibliography and further reading

IZKI - Harat al-Yemen Brochure

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