INTRODUCTORY KEELBOAT

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INTRODUCTORYKEELBOAT

T H E Y A C H T I N G A U S T R A L I A T R A I N I N G S E R I E S

Skipper or crew a tillered keelboatSupporting the National Training Programs

The Australian Sailing Training Series

INTRO

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IntroductoryKeelboat

The Australian Sailing Training Series

Supporting the National Training Programs

KeelboatOz p. 1-39 21/2/06 4:49 PM Page 1

2

This book is published by AUSTRALIAN SAILING under licence from US SAILING. Copyright © 2005 by the United States Sailing Association, Portsmouth, RI, USA All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without prior written permission from AUSTRALIAN SAILING.Locked Bag 806Milsons Point NSW 2061Reprinted 2010, 2013. 2017

National Library of AustraliaCataloguing-in-Publication (CIP) Entry

Toghill, Jeff, 1932- .Introductory keelboat.

Includes index.ISBN 0 9588085 2 X.

1. Sailboats - Australia. 2. Yachting - Australia. 3.Boats and boating - Australia. I. Brown, Lyndsay. II. AUSTRALIAN SAILING. III. Title. (Series : TheAUSTRALIAN SAILING training series ; no. 2).

797.1240994

Hydrographic material reproduced under licence by permission ofThe Australian Hydrographic Service© Commonwealth of Australia 1996

Meteorological material reproduced with kind permission of the Australian Bureau of Meteorology© Commonwealth of Australia 2005

In adapting this work to reflect Australian conditions, AUSTRALIAN SAILING would like to acknowledge those involved. Jeff ToghillLyndsay Brown

cover photography - Christophe Launay

cover design - Trilogy Integrated Communication


3

ForewordSailing is a sport for life, enjoyable andaccessible to children and adults of all agesand abilities.

From the simplest small dinghies and yachts,to 18-foot skiffs and on to the America’s Cup,the complexities change but the basics ofboats and sailing are the same.

Introductory Keelboat covers all thefundamentals of learning to sail in a tillercontrolled yacht. It explains all you need to getstarted, from rigging the boat, to weather andwind angles, through to safety. With the helpof an instructor, Introductory Keelboat willenable you to quickly learn the ropes andenjoy being out on the water.

Iain Murray AMMultiple America’s Cup Skipper and WorldChampion


Acknowledgments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Foreword . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Part 1: Sailing ConceptsParts of a boat

Hull. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Rig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

How a sail worksPull mode. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Push mode . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9No-go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Basic sail trimJust right. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Too tight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Too loose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Basic sailing directionsAcross the wind . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Upwind. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Downwind . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Points of sail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Changing directionHeading up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Heading down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Tacking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Getting out of irons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Gybing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Dangerous accidental gybes. . . . . . . . . . 21

Getting there and returning . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Part 2: Sailing PreparationWarm weather dressing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Cool weather dressing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25Reading the wind. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Parts of a sail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Sail fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29Rigging the sails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Hoisting the sails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31Sail controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

4 Contents


Contents 5

Leaving under sail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Crew position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36Steering. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37Starting and stopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38Jib and mainsail trim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40Sailing upwind in the groove. . . . . . . . . . . . . 42Tacking step-by-step . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44Heaving-to . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45Gybing step-by-step. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46Returning under sail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48Tying up alongside . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49

Adjusting sail shape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50Depowering sails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51Balance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52Tacking angles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53Gybing angles. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53Wind shifts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54Sailing upwind in wind shifts . . . . . . . . . . . . 55More leaving and returning

situations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56Knots and lines

Types of line. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58Bowline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58Figure-8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59Reef knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59Sheet bend. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59Clove hitch. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60Round turn and two half hitches . . . . . . 60

Coiling a line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61Heaving a line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61

Weather . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Onshore and offshore winds . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63Tides and currents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64Basic Navigation Rules

Sail vs. sail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66Power vs. sail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67

Basic navigation aids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Reading a chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69

Hypothermia and heat emergencies . . . . . . 70Electrical hazards. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Stretching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Overboard recovery methods

Quick-Stop recovery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72Quick-Turn recovery. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73

Shortening sail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74Running aground . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75Anchoring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76

Scope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77Safety equipment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78Signalling for help . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79

Rig types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80Hull types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81The Sailor’s Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82


Parts of the Boat Let’s begin by learningsome of the importantparts on a boat and theirnames. Knowing some ofthese sailing terms willallow you tocommunicate moreeffectively when onboard the boat. Here’s aquick overview.

Tiller The wooden (usually)lever arm attached to therudder that allows you tosteer the boat.

Stern The back ofthe boat.

Transom The flat or slightly curvedsurface at the stern of the boat.

Rudder The flat steering foil, directed by atiller, that is used to turn the boat.

Hull The “body” of theboat that floats inthe water.

Keel The weighted vertical fin at thebottom of the boat. Its weightreduces heeling (tipping) whileits shape keeps the boat fromsliding sideways through thewater.

Coach House The roof and sidesof the cabin trunk.

Bow The front of the boat.

CockpitThe low space in the deckwhere the crew sits andthe tiller is located.

Deck The flat surface area

on top of the boat.

Companionway A passageway from the cockpitto the area below the deck.

6 Sailing Concepts


Sailing Concepts 7

Parts of the Rig Now that you know

your way around thedeck, it’s time to lookup. The rig includes

sails (mainsail and jib),spars (mast and boom),

supporting wires(standing rigging) and

sail controls (running rigging).

Mast The vertical spar in the middle of the

boat from which the sails are set.

Mainsail The sail hoisted on the back side of themast and attached to the boom.

Backstay The part of the rigging, attachedfrom the top of the mast to the back(stern) of the boat, that keeps themast from falling forward.

Batten A slat of fibreglass, plastic or woodinserted into a pocket in the sail to helpit hold its shape.

Boom The horizontal spar extending backfrom the mast. The bottom (foot ) ofthe mainsail is attached to it.

Shrouds Rigging wiresextending up from thesides of the boat to themast that keep themast from falling toeither side.

Spreader Struts that extend from theside of the mast that keep itfrom bending sideways.

Main sheet A rope purchase used tocontrol the mainsail.

Boom vangA small purchase used tohold down the boom toassist sail control.

Jib The forward sailthat is attachedto the forestay.

Forestay The part of the riggingthat is attached to the

front (bow ) of the boat tokeep the mast fromfalling backwards.


8 Sailing Concepts

How a Sail WorksSails are a boat’s engine,and they produce powerin one of two ways.When the wind iscoming from the side ofthe boat, it flows aroundboth sides of the sail(like an aeroplane wing),creating lift which“pulls” the boat forward.When the wind iscoming from behind theboat, it “pushes” againstthe sail and simplypropels the boatforward.

PULL MODEYour sail is much more efficient at using the wind than your hand. Itis shaped to bend the wind as it flows by, creating higher pressureon the inside of the sail U and lower pressure on the outside U,thus creating lift. The lift the sail creates “pulls” the boat forward andsideways. The boat’s keel (underwater fin) keeps the boat from beingpulled sideways through the water.

LIFT

U

U

+

+

--

--

If you hold your hand outthe window of a movingcar, you can feel the forceof the wind lifting yourhand. This is the sameforce that “pulls” asailboat forward when thewind comes over the sideof the boat.

LIFT

WIND

U--

U+


Sailing Concepts 9

PUSH MODEWith the wind coming from behind, the sail (andboat) are simply pushed forward through the water.

NO-GOA sailboat cannot sail directly into the wind. You can try it,

but your sails will only flutter (luff) and you’ll be dead in thewater...or even start moving backwards. Because there is nodifference in wind pressure between one side of the sail and

the other, the sail cannot generate either “push” or “pull.” No push...no pull...NO GO!

U--

U--

If you hold your hand out thewindow of a moving car withyour palm facing the wind,you can feel the wind “push”your hand back. This is how asail works when the wind iscoming from behind.

U+

WIND

WIND

U+


Trimming a SailMany sailors view a boat’smainsheet and jib sheet as theywould the accelerator on a car —the more they sheet in (trim),the faster they go. This is true toa certain extent, but notcompletely. As we described onthe previous pages, a sail createspower (lift) by redirecting windflow. If the wind flows smoothlypast the sails, optimum powerwill be achieved as well asmaximum boat speed. If the sailsare sheeted in or out too much,turbulent flow will result,reducing power and slowing the boat.

10 Sailing Concepts

Trimmed Just RightE Smooth flow around sailE Optimum powerE Optimum boat speedE Easy steeringE Well balanced

Smooth flow

WIND


Sailing Concepts 11

Trimmed Too TightE Turbulent flow around sailE Reduced powerE Reduced boat speedE Difficult steeringE Excessive heeling

If you lose wind flow around your sails, theboat will begin to feel sluggish. To get smoothflow going again, simply let out the sails untilyou feel the boat pick up speed.

Trimmed Too LooseE Turbulent flow around sailE Minimum powerE Reduced boat speed

Sailing with your sails trimmed too far out is notnecessarily bad. There are times when you willwant to sail along slowly (at less than maximumspeed) and will trim in your sails only part way.

Turbulent(stalled )flow

Turbulent flow/Minimum power

WIND

WIND


12 Sailing Concepts

Sailing Across the Wind Sailing across the wind, withthe wind perpendicular to theside of the boat, is a fast andeasy way to sail — certainlyeasier than sailing upwind. Inyour first lesson, you willspend a lot of time sailingacross the wind, learning howto steer and trim the sails.

Sailing across the wind (reaching) is easy, fun andlively. There’s a slight heel to the boat, the sails

are about half-way out, and it’s easy to steerstraight ahead or to the left or right.

ChecklistE Feel the wind coming across

the boat.E Sheet the sails about halfway in.E Steer towards an object or

landmark. Adjust the sails tochanges in the boat’s direction or changes in wind direction.

WIND

These boats are sailingperpendicular tothe wind with thewind comingover the side ofthe boat. This iscalled a beamreach.

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Sailing Concepts 13

Sailing Upwind Although a boat cannot saildirectly into the wind, it cansail upwind, or close to wherethe wind is coming from.Sailing about 45 degrees fromthe direction of the wind isabout the closest a boat cansail to the wind (althoughsome high performance boatscan sail as close as 30 to 35degrees).

Sailing upwind is fun and exhilarating asyou cross the waves with the wind and

spray in your face. You can feel thepower of the elements of nature and

know that you are using only this powerto move through the water.

NO-GO ZONE

WIND

If you try to sail too close tothe wind, your sails willflutter (luff ) and lose power,and the boat will come to astop. This 90 degree area iscalled the No-Go Zone forobvious reasons.

ChecklistE Feel the wind in your face

(when looking forward).E Sheet the sails all the way in.E Steer to the jib using the telltales

and the flutter of its leading edge (to achieve smooth air flow).

E Helmsman sits on the “high”(windward ) side opposite the boom.

E Crew trim sails and move from oneside to the other to help keep the boatfrom heeling too much or too little.

Two of these boats are sailing as close tothe direction of the wind as possible

without entering the no-go zone. This iscalled sailing close-hauled.


14 Sailing Concepts

Sailing Downwind Sailing downwind, with thewind coming over the back ofthe boat, is the mostcomfortable point of sail. Thewind and the waves arefollowing you, the ride issmooth and the boat staysupright. Sailing at an angle tothe wind is faster, safer andeasier than sailing with thewind coming directly behindthe boat (dead downwind)because there is less chance forthe boom to accidentally flyacross the boat.

Sailing downwind is a veryrelaxing, “take it easy” wayto sail with the wind at yourback, your sails let out andno spray to wet you.

ChecklistE Feel the wind on the back of

your neck (when facingforward).

E Sheet in the sails so they’realmost perpendicular to thewind.

E Steer towards an object orlandmark.

E Adjust the sails to changes inthe boat’s direction or changesin wind direction.

E Watch the jib as an earlywarning for an accidental gybewhere the boom suddenlycomes flying across the boat.If the jib goes limp and startsto cross the boat, push thetiller toward the boom until thejib returns and fills with windagain.

WINDThese boats are sailing away fromthe wind but at an angle to it. The

wind is blowing over the backcorner of the boat and the sails

are sheeted perpendicular to thewind. This is called a broad reach.


Sailing Concepts 15

Points of SailSailing upwind (close-hauled), across the wind(reaching) and downwind(running), are called pointsof sail.

NO-GO ZONE

Upwind(close-hauled)

Upwind(close-hauled)

Across the Wind

(beam reach)

Across the Wind(beam reach)

Downwind(broad reach)

Downwind(broad reach)

Downwind(run)

Downwind (run)

Close ReachClose Reach

WIND


16 Sailing Concepts

Heading Up and DownWhenever a boat turns tochange direction, either to theleft or right, it is also turningrelative to the wind—eithertoward (heading up) or awayfrom the wind (bearing away).There are two key points toremember:E To turn the boat, the tiller is

pushed or pulled in theopposite direction that youwant to turn.

E Whenever a boat changesdirection, both the mainsailand jib should be sheeted inor eased out.

Heading UpThis boat is changing direction fromsailing across the wind to sailingupwind by heading up.E The helmsman pushes the tiller

toward the mainsail.E The crew sheet in the sails all the

way (close-hauled position).

This boat has headed up into the No-Go Zoneand has not sheeted in the sails. The sails areflapping and have lost their power, so the boat

will coast to a stop. Heading up into the No-GoZone is often a good way to stop a boat.

Angle towind getscloser

WIND

NO-G0 ZONE


Sailing Concepts 17

Heading DownThis boat is changing direction fromsailing across the wind to sailingdownwind by bearing away.E The helmsman pulls the tiller away

from the mainsail.E The crew ease out the sails almost all

the way.

Tacking is one of the first manoeuvres you willpractice on the water. The purpose of tacking is toswitch from sailing in one direction across the windA to the other B. To start this manoeuvre, you willfirst head up toward the wind into the No-Go Zone.To complete the turn you will then bear away fromthe wind.

Angle to windgets wider

WIND

UP

DOWN

A

B


18 Sailing Concepts

Tacking A sailboat cannot sail directly intothe wind. To make progresstowards the wind, it must sail a zig-zag course, much as you would usea series of angled traverses to reachthe top of a steep hill. When asailboat switches from a “zig” to a“zag,” it is called a tack. A tack ortacking is turning the bow of a boatthrough the wind from one side ofthe No-Go Zone to the other.When a boat crosses the No-GoZone, the sails will cross from oneside of the boat to the other.

At the beginning of the tack 1 , thesailors are sailing close-hauled withthe wind coming over the left or portside of the boat. In the middle of thetack B, the boat crosses the windand No-Go Zone, and the sails loseall their power. In the final part of thetack C, their boat is again picking upspeed, this time with the windcoming over the right (starboard )side of the boat. The boat’s directionhas changed about 90°.

A

B

C

WIND

No-Go Zone

WIND

No-Go Zone

Boat is on rightside of No-Go Zone

Boat crosses No-Go Zone

Boat is now on leftside of No-Go Zone.


Sailing Concepts 19

Getting Out of Irons At some point while you are learning to sail,you will tack the boat too slowly through thewind and get stuck in the No-Go Zone. You arenow in irons. It’s a helpless feeling, but easilycorrectable. Here’s how:

Sheet in one of the jib sheets (in this casethe one on the left side) until the wind blowingover the bow makes the sail billow backtowards you. This will push the boat backwardsand also push the bow off to one side. Whenthe boat starts to move backwards, push thetiller in the same direction as the bow is turning(in this case to the right side) to helpthe boat turn more quickly.When the wind is comingover the side of the boat

, release the jib sheetand sheet in on the otherside. Then straighten the tiller,sheet in the mainsail, and off you go!

Tacking from Reach to ReachTacking doesn’t only happen when youare trying to sail toward the wind. Anytime you switch the wind from one sideof the boat to the other by sailingthrough the No-Go Zone, you areperforming a tack. In the sequence tothe left, the boat is sailing across thewind (reaching) with the wind comingover the left (port) side , then sailingthrough the No-Go Zone and finallysailing back across the wind (reaching)with the wind coming over the right(starboard) side .The sails should be sheeted in as theboat heads up towards the No-Go Zoneand eased out when the boat is throughit. This maintains speed through thetack.

In Irons The boat is pointed directly intothe wind, both sails are flapping,the boat has come to a deadstop, and the rudder and tillerdon’t work (water has to beflowing past the rudder for it tosteer the boat).

WIND

WIND


20 Sailing Concepts

Gybing The other main manoeuvre insailing is the gybe. Like a tack, agybe is a change in boat directionthrough the wind with the sailscrossing from one side of the boatto the other. During a tack, yousteer the bow through the wind(No-Go Zone). During a gybe, thewind crosses over the stern.

NOTE: In a tack the boomcrosses the cockpit relativelyslowly. But in a gybe, theboom can whip acrossquickly as the sail swingsfrom one side to the other. A“controlled” gybe (more oncontrolling the gybe later)helps minimise the speed ofthe boom crossing over. Anuncontrolled or accidentalgybe (see opposite page)should be avoided.

At the beginning of the gybe A the sailsare let out almost all the way with the windcoming over the right (starboard ) side ofthe boat. In the middle of the gybe B, theback (stern) of the boat crosses the windand the sail swings over from one side tothe other. In the final part of the gybe C themainsail is let back out almost all the wayand the boat continues on with the windcoming over the left (port ) side of the boat.

A key to controlling the mainsail as itcrosses over during a gybe is to sheet it into the centre of the boat before the sterncrosses the wind. After the boom flops over,the mainsheet is let out quickly. Remember:KEEP YOUR HEAD LOW AS THE BOOMSWINGS OVER!

WIND

NO-GO ZONE

A

B

C


Sailing Concepts 21

Dangerous Accidental Gybes!The boat in this illustration isgoing through a gybe, but hasforgotten to sheet in themainsail. The result is anuncontrolled, or accidental gybe.The force of the boom rapidlyswinging across can break riggingor hit a crew member. In 2 and3 it is still possible to avoid theaccidental gybe, if the helmsmansteers back onto the originalcourse 1. The key thing toremember if the accidental gybeoccurs 4 is to quickly duckunder the boom’s path. The alertsailor should shout out awarning!

Turning AwayFrom the Wind Boat begins the gybeby heading down.

Dead Downwind Wind is directly behind the stern and the jib

is limp and starts to cross the boat. Theseare the warning signs of an impending

gybe. The mainsail has not been sheeted into the middle of the boat.

TurningToward the Wind The stern has crossedthrough the wind, thejib has crossed, but themainsail is still outwith the wind startingto curl around its backside. The boat issailing by the lee.

WHAM ! ! ! It’s now too late to do anything except

hope that everyone has ducked in time.Enough wind has reached the back of the

mainsail to push it over.

WIND

A

B

C

D


22 Sailing Concepts

Getting There andReturning Now, we will take what youhave just learned about sailingupwind, across the wind anddownwind and put them alltogether. Let’s start by sailingtoward the wind (upwind) to abuoy with a series of zig-zagscalled tacks. Then, we’ll sailacross the wind to anotherbuoy. After rounding the buoy,we’ll sail downwind usinganother series of zig-zagscalled gybes. Tacks are usuallymade at 90 degree angles.Gybes can be made at justabout any angle.

Whether you are sailingupwind, across the wind ordownwind, the wind will beblowing over one side of theboat or the other. If the windis blowing over the right(starboard) side, you aresailing on starboard tack. Ifthe wind is blowing over theleft (port) side, you are sailingon port tack.

Sailing Upwind E Wind coming over bow of boatE Sails are sheeted in all the wayE Helmsman steers boat toward

the wind as much as possiblewhile maintaining steady speed

E Boat sails a series of zig-zags(tacks) to reach destination

Sailing upwind is also calledbeating to windward, or beating.

Tack E

F Tack

Wind is blowing over right(starboard ) FRONT of boat. Boatis sailing on starboard tack.

Wind is blowing over left(port ) FRONT of boat. Boat

is sailing on port tack.WIND


Sailing Concepts 23

Sailing Across the Wind E Wind coming over side of boat.E Sails sheeted halfway in.E Helmsman steers boat directly

toward destination.E Boat sailing at its best speed.

Sailing across the wind is alsocalled reaching.

Gybe E

F Gybe

F Gybe

Sailing Downwind E Wind coming over back

(stern) of boat.E Sails eased all the way out.E Boat sailing level.

Wind is blowing over left (port ) SIDE ofboat. Boat is sailing on port tack.

Wind is blowing over BACK ofboat on right (starboard ) side.Boat is sailing on starboard tack.

Wind blowing over BACK of boat on left(port ) side. Boat is sailing on port tack.

Wind is blowing over right (starboard ) SIDEof boat. Boat is sailing on starboard tack.

WIND


24 Sailing Preparation

Warm Weather Dressing If you want to enjoy sailing, you’ve got to be comfortable. Preparation is the key, so put together a sailing gear bag for yourself with clothing and gear that will protect you and make you feel at ease in all weather conditions. Whether it’s cloudy or sunny, protect yourself with sunscreen, using Sun Protection Factor (SPF) 30 or higher. You can get burned even on a cloudy day, especially with the sun’s ray’s reflection off the water.

Sunglasses cut down theglare from the water and ease

eye strain. Attach a cord aroundyour neck to your sunglasses

to keep from losing themoverboard.

A lightweightcotton collared

shirt preferablylong-sleeved, willkeep you cool andprotect your neck

and arms fromsunburn.

Sailing gloves (withcutaway finger tips)

protect your hands andallow dexterity to work

on delicate tasks.

Watches tend totake a beating on aboat. Leave a fine

timepiece at homeand wear an

affordable, waterresistant model on

the water.

Most deck shoes have“non-skid” soles with thinslits that open as the foot

is flexed, allowing theshoe to grip a wet deck.

Unless you like scrubbingdecks, make sure your

soles are white.

Type I PFD Type 2 PFD Type 3 PFD


Lifejackets, known as Personal Flotation Devices or PFDs, are essential. They must be carried on all boats.

There are three types of lifejackets approved for sailing: Level 100+ (also known as Type 1) is required for all persons sailing in open seas or in sheltered waters where conditions may be rough. They are designed to keep a person in a safe floating position in the water. Level 50 (also known as Type 2) often called a buoyancy vest, is suitable for small boat activities in sheltered waters. Level 50S (also known as Type 3) is also known as a buoyancy vest and is similar in many ways to a Type 2, however it is not recommended for general boating use because the colours are less visible to recue craft. Type 3 are mostly used by water skiers, canoeists etc.

Sailing Preparation 25

Cool Weather Dressing Cold, wet weather offers morechallenges to staying comfortable.Remember, just because a day looksdry and warm in the morning doesn’tmean it’s going to stay that way. Beprepared for a change in the weatherand carry your gear with you. The bestdefence against cold weather is alayered approach, ranging from along-sleeved shirt and pants to asweater or to an insulated jacket towet-weather gear. Keeping yourhands, feet, and head warm withgloves, wool socks and a hat isessential for comfort.

Body heat escapes fromthe top of the head. Aweather-proof hat will helpkeep you dry. Tie it on so itdoesn’t get lost overboard.A knit ski cap under thehood of your wet-weatherjacket will keep you bothwarm and dry.

A nylon-fleecejacket with a tallcollar will keep youwarm and protectyour neck fromwind and spray.When worn over asweater, you will bewarm enough formost sailingsituations.

Loose-fitting longpants are usually enoughto keep most people’s legswarm. If you’re still cold,you can wear your wet-weather pants on top.Loose pants also alloweasier movement.

The protection provided by wet-weather gearkeeps sailing pleasurable even in wet conditions.Two-piece wet-weather gear (pants and a jacket)is more versatile than a one-piece jump-suit.You will find weather conditions when you willwant to wear only the jacket or only the pants.When selecting gear, make sure it:E fits comfortably with enough room for

movement and for extra clothes underneath;E has flaps covering zippers and pockets;E has velcro or elastic closures at the ankles

and wrists;E has abundant pockets;E has a hood.

Full-fingered sailinggloves make it easierto hold onto lines(ropes) and tiller on achilly day.


Look onshore for other wind indicators that may help. A flagor smoke from a chimney are indicators of wind direction.


“Reading” the WindObviously you need wind to sail. You also need toknow the direction of the wind. Out on the water youmight have a nice breeze blowing, but if you don’tknow its direction, you won’t know how to set yoursails or steer your course. There are many clues, bothon land and water, which you can use to tell which waythe wind is blowing.

Your ears and your face are yourown built-in wind indicators. Aftera while they will becomesensitised to the wind and you’ll beable to sense wind direction quiteaccurately without relying as muchon other references.

Ripples on the water’s surfaceare caused by wind blowing over it.Surges of stronger wind (puffs ) stirthe water’s surface, creating a patchthat appears slightly darker than therest. If you see a dark patch on thewater, it is most likely an area whereyou’ll find increased wind. This isknown as a line of breeze.

Boats on mooringsor at anchor willusually be pointingdirectly into the wind(or current).



To determine thedirection of the wind, headup directly into the wind sothe sails are flapping (luffing)like a flag and the boom is onthe boat’s centreline. The bowof the boat is now pointingdirectly into the wind.

Look at other sailboatsand how they have theirsails trimmed. If you see aboat sailing close-hauled,you know that it is headingabout 45˚ off the wind. Aboat with its mainsaileased all the way out ispointing in the oppositedirection to the wind.

A masthead wind indicator at the top of themast is a helpful indication of wind direction.

Wind direction is described by thedirection it is coming FROM. A westerlywind is one that comes out of the westand blows toward the east. The wind onthis compass rose is coming from adirection between north and west. Itwould be called a northwest wind (ornor’wester ).

True wind The speed and direction of the wind youwould feel when you and the boat are notmoving.

Apparent wind The wind blowing over the side of the boatis affected by the boat’s forward motion. Thecombination of the actual (true) wind andthe wind created by the motion of the boat isknown as the apparent wind.



Parts of a SailSails on modern sailboats are triangular, and thethree corners and the three edges of the sail allhave different names. Sails are raised by a linecalled a halyard attached to the top corner ofthe sail.

Corners of a SailE Both jib and mainsail are attached to

the rig at their lower forward corners.This corner of the sail is called thetack.

E The lower back corner of each sail iscalled the clew. The jib sheets areattached to the clew of the jib and theouthaul is attached to the clew of themainsail.

E The top corner of the sail is called thehead and is attached to the halyard.The head is the corner with thesmallest angle of the three corners.

Edges of a SailE The bottom edge of a sail is called the

foot. The foot of a mainsail is attached tothe boom, while the foot of a jib isunattached.

E The forward edge of a sail is called theluff. On the jib the luff is attached(usually by hanks ) to the forestay. Theluff of the mainsail is attached to the mast.

E The back (after ) edge of each of the sails is called the leech. It is not attached to the rig.

HalyardsHalyards are used to raiseand lower the sails and areoften led inside the mast.E The jib halyard runs

over an internal pulley(sheave) in the front of the mast.

E The main halyard runsover the sheave on theback side of the top of the mast.

LUFF

LEEC

H

FOOT

FOOT

LUFF

LEECH

HEAD

TACK

TACK

HEADCL

EW

CLEW



The gooseneck is the attachmentpoint of the boom to the mast. This iswhere the tack of the mainsail isusually attached.

The luff and foot of the mainsail areattached to the mast and boom byeither a slot (far left) or a track (maston left). The sail is made with either abolt rope or plastic slugs that fit intothe slot, or metal fittings that slide onthe track.

A closablefastening called a

shackle connectsthe halyard to thehead (top corner)

of the sail.

Slot

Slot

Bolt ropeSlide

Metal hanksare spring-loaded clips thathold the jib tothe forestay.

Some jibs havecloth tabs thatattach the luff ofthe sail to theforestay.

Track

Gooseneck

TACK

HEAD

LUFF LU

FF

FOOTFOOT



Rigging the Sails Before leaving themooring or marinaberth, the sails must beproperly attached andraised. To rig themainsail, first ease theouthaul andcunningham lines andunfold the sail, thenfollow therecommendedsequence on this page.

Rigging the Mainsail:A Attach the foot to the boom byinserting the clew of the sail into theforward end of the boom slot, pulling italong the boom, and attaching theouthaul.B Attach the tack of the sail to thegooseneck.C Connect the cunningham.D Tighten the outhaul to tighten thefoot of the main (your instructor willshow you how tight it should be).Secure the outhaul line.E Attach the luff to the mast, makingsure it’s not twisted (your instructorwill show you how to avoid twists). If itis connected by metal or fibreglassslides, feed them onto the track, andmake sure they are all attached. If ituses a bolt rope, slide the head intothe slot on the mast.F Attach the main halyard shackleand remove any slack to keep it fromsnagging a spreader and also toprevent the head from slipping out ofthe slot.G If battens have been removed,insert them before raising the sail. Themore flexible end, usually thinner ortapered, should be inserted into thepocket first.

Rigging the Jib:1 Fasten the tack of the jib to theproper fitting at the bow.B Starting with the bottom fastener,attach the luff of the jib onto theforestay.C After assuring that you have theproper line, attach the jib halyardshackle to the head of the jib. Checkthat the halyard is not wrapped aroundthe forestay. D Secure the jib sheets to the clew ofthe jib using bowline knots. Jib sheetsusually pass inside the shrouds,through the fairleads or sheetingblocks, to the cockpit. Tie a stopperknot (usually a figure-8 knot) into theends of the sheets in the cockpit.

Make sure allhalyard shackles arefastened securely.

Tie jib sheets into theclew with bowlineknots (see p.58).

Before you hoist themainsail, remove slackfrom the halyard to keep itfrom snagging the rigging.

WIND



Hoisting the SailsBefore hoisting your sails, theboat should be pointed intothe wind. Hoist the mainsailfirst, as it will help keep theboat’s bow into the wind (andNo-Go Zone) until you areready to cast off.

You should now have both sailsup and luffing with the boataimed directly into the wind. Theboat is still secured alongside orto the mooring.

Make sure the mainsheet andjib sheets are loose and freeto run. This allows the sails tomove freely in the wind so theboat doesn’t start sailingbefore your are ready!

Feeding the mainsailluff into the slot of themast as it is raised helpskeep the sail fromjamming in the slot.

Snug up your outhaulbefore raising the sail.

It’s harder to do oncethe mainsail is hoisted

and the boom ismoving in the wind.

Hoisting the Mainsail:1 Tighten the outhaul.B Loosen the cunningham and/ordownhaul.C Loosen the mainsheet and anyreefing lines and remove any sail ties.D Tighten the traveller controls.E Release the boom vang.F Check the halyard to make sure it’sclear, then hoist away.

G Look up the mast to check that thesail is going up smoothly.H Allow the sail to luff so it will goup more easily.I Wrap the halyard around a winch ifit becomes difficult to hold — be verycareful about using a winch handle asit’s easy to break something.

Hoisting the Jib:1 Everyone should clear theforedeck so they are not hit by the sailas it flaps in the wind.B Make sure both the halyard andthe jib sheets are clear and untangled.C Make sure the sheets are in thecockpit and free to run.D Raise the sail with the jib halyard.Finish hoisting by using a winch totighten the luff if necessary.5 Secure and coil the halyard.

WIND



Sail ControlsThe sail controls of a sailboat(running rigging) allow you toadjust the position and shapeof the sails in response tochanges in course, winddirection and wind strength.Each sail adjustment involvesa system of components. Forexample, trimming the jibinvolves using the jib sheet,the fairleads and winches.Let’s take a quick look at thesail control components found on most sailboats.

Jib sheets control the jib. They runfrom the clew of the jib back to thecockpit. They are pulled in (trimmed )or let out (eased ) to change the shapeand angle of the jib.

Jib sheets run through fairleadscalled sheeting blocks or jib cars.These pulleys (blocks ) are usuallyattached to an adjustable track on thedeck or to a rail (toe rail ) on the side ofthe deck. The fairlead is moved forwardand backward on the track toaccommodate different sized jibs andjib trimming angles.

The cunningham is a line that is usedto tighten the front (luff ) of the mainsail

along the mast. On some boats, adownhaul serves the same purpose.

The boom vang is used tokeep the boom from rising upwhen wind hits the mainsail.

B



A rope (line ) is secured to a cleat. Thehorn cleat is secure and easy (butslow) to release under heavy load. Aline that will be left unattended, suchas a mooring line (warp), should besecured with a cleat hitch (shown).

A clam cleat B is very easy touse...simply pull the line throughit and let go. To release the line,pull and lift it out (this can be adifficult task under a heavy load).

A cam cleat A has jaws with“teeth” that are spring loaded sothey press and grip a line snugly.To release the line, pull and lift.Cam cleats can be difficult torelease under heavy load.

The mainsheet controls the angleand shape of the mainsail. It runsthrough a series of pulleys (blocks)which give the crew mechanicaladvantage while they pull in (trim) orlet out (ease) the sail.

The outhaul is a line used totighten the bottom (foot ) of the mainsail.

A winch helps you pull in and hold a sheet. Thefriction of wrapping a sheet around the winchdrum reduces the pull needed to hold the sheetin. A winch handle can be inserted into the top ofthe winch to provide additional power for pullingin the sheet.

The traveller controls theposition of the boomacross the boat.

B

A

A


34 Your First Sail

Leaving under SailLeaving a mooring or marina berth canmake beginner sailors nervous. Butwith a little forethought and basic sail-ing skills you can carry out thismanoeuvre without risk. First decidehow you will leave, then explain yourdeparture plan to the crew and makesure everyone knows what they shoulddo and when. Marinas and mooringsare often crowded places and the safetyof your boat and others around you, aswell as that of your crew, must be keptforemost in mind.

If you are on a mooring, the boat will bepointing into the wind (providing thewind is stronger than the tide) and thesails, when raised, will be flapping. Theboat must be turned out of the No-GoZone and the sails sheeted in to startsailing. The crew are organised withone on the main sheet and one on thejib sheet, plus one at the bow to let goof the mooring. The jib is backed bypulling on the sheet opposite to thedirection the boat will sail off, and whenthe bow turns out of the wind, the for-ward crew casts off the mooring. Thejib sheet is then switched to the otherside, the main sheet pulled in and theboat sailed away from the mooring.Where manoeuvring room is tight, theforward crew can “walk” the mooringdown the windward side of the boatbefore casting off.

If you are sailing from a marina thesame principles apply. In the examplesshown here the boat is pointed into thewind (No-Go Zone) and must beturned out of the zone to sail away. Inthe bottom example the boat will haveto be backed out of the berth before itcan be turned out of the No-Go Zone.

1 Your sails are up and luffing as you are tied alongside thepontoon pointed into the wind. A crew member is on thepontoon to handle the shore linesand will release the bow line first,then step aboard at the shroudsor stern, helping to push the boataway into clear water.

Leaving a Pontoon

1 Your sails are up and luffing as you are tied to the mooringand pointing into the wind. A crew member is on the foredeckto handle the mooring line.

Leaving a Mooring

1 Your sails are upand luffing with themainsheet free. Thecrew on the marinacarefully guides theboat around the endof the berth.

Leaving aMarina Berth


Your First Sail 35

B Sheet in the jib on the pontoon side until the sail becomesbackwinded and the boat slowly rotates out of the No-Go Zone,then release the sternline. Your instructor willshow you the preferredmethod, depending onthe conditions that existat the time.

C Finally, sheet in the jib on the other side and trimthe mainsail. The boat will sail away from the berth.

B Sheet in the jib on one side until the sail becomesbackwinded and the boat rotates out of the No-Go Zone. Yourinstructor will show you how to dothis, depending on the conditionsthat exist at the time. Release themooring.

C Sheet in the jib on the correct side and trim themainsail. The boat will sail away from the mooring.Enjoy your sail!

B They then swingthe bow of the boatout of the No-GoZone onto a beamreach, push off andstep aboard the boatholding onto theshrouds.

WIND

C The sails aresheeted in andfenders andshore lines arestowed as theboat sails awayfrom the berth.


36 Your First Sail

Crew PositionSmall sailboats are relatively light, so thepositioning of a helmsman and crew is criticalto how the boat handles. The crew not onlytrim sails, but also help to balance the boat.Note how everyone is positioned on the high(windward) side of the boat. When the crewsit farther out on the side (rail), their weighthelps counteract the boat’s tendency to heelwhen the wind pushes against the sails. This isimportant because excessive heel slows theboat and makes it harder to steer.

Helmsman ResponsibilitiesThe helmsman should be seated near the after end of thecockpit, holding the tiller with the hand farthest aft. On atwo-person boat, he or she holds the mainsheet in theother hand and adjusts sail trim or course as needed. Ina three-person crew, the middle crew usually handles themainsheet and the helmsman only steers.

Crew ResponsibilitiesThe crew are in charge of trimmingand releasing the jib sheet andmainsheet. They will be the first tocross the cockpit during a tack, andwill snug up the sheet not beingused (lazy sheet ) so it will be readyto trim for the next tack.

During tacks and gybes, the boomcrosses over the cockpit. Thehelmsman and crew must first duckunder the boom and cross over to theother side of the boat.


Your First Sail 37

SteeringUsing a tiller to steer theboat is simple. A commonrule of thumb when youbegin sailing is to push orpull the tiller away from thedirection you want to turn. Ifyou want to turn left, pushor pull the tiller right andvice versa. After a shortwhile using a tiller willbecome automatic.

1 LEFT TURNThe helmsman pushes the tillerright (to starboard) and the boatturns left.

B RIGHT TURNThe helmsman pulls the tiller tothe left (port ) side and the boat

turns right (to starboard ) andback on course.

C STRAIGHT AHEADHere the helmsman hascentred the tiller and issailing a straight course.

NOTE:It is important to know that theboat must be moving for you tosteer. The rudder (the pivotingunderwater foil at the back ofthe boat) redirects the flow ofwater to create a steering force.NO MOVEMENT...NOFLOW...NO STEERING FORCE!Try to keep steering motion firmbut smooth. Jerky tillermovements can disrupt waterflow around the rudder andreduce its effectiveness.


38 Your First Sail

Starting and StoppingA sailboat can be startedand stopped by using itssails, much like using theaccelerator on your car.Sheeting in a sail toproper trim is likestepping on theaccelerator. Sheeting thesail out and letting it flap(luff ) is like taking yourfoot off the accelerator.With the sails luffing, theboat will coast to a stop.

StopBoat is stopped in the waterwith its sheets eased out and itssails flapping (luffing ).

StopBoat is stopped in the waterwith its sheets eased out and itssails flapping (luffing ).

StartSheeting in the sails totheir proper trim gets theboat moving.

StartIn this case, the mainsail issheeted in slightly to get the boatmoving, then the helmsmanheads the boat away from thewind (tiller away from mainsail)onto a broad reach where thesails are now properly trimmed.

Sheet in to start

Bear away to start


Your First Sail 39

To stop the boat the helmsman headsdirectly into the wind (No-Go Zone ). The

sails luff completely and the boat stops. Tostop the boat more quickly, a crew member

pushes (backs) the mainsail against thewind (shown above).

StopTo stop the boat the mainsail is easedout so the sails flap (luff ). The boatthen coasts to a stop.

StopIn order to stop the boat, the helmsman heads backtoward the wind (tiller toward the mainsail) until thesails luff again and the boat coasts to a stop.

Sheet out to stop

Head up to stop

Head up into No-Go Zone to stop


40 Your First Sail

Jib and Mainsail TrimSail trim is one of the mostimportant skills in sailing butbecause the wind is invisible itcan sometimes be difficult tojudge whether your sail istrimmed properly. A very helpfulway to detect wind flow aroundyour sails (and adjust your sails orchange course accordingly) iswith telltales.

How Telltales Work Telltales are pieces of yarn or ribbonattached near the front edge (luff ) of thesail. Here’s how they work:E If both telltales stream straight back, it

means the wind is flowing smoothlyover both sides of the sail.

E If a telltale is fluttering, there isturbulence on that side of the sail, andthe sail needs to be adjusted. An easyway to remember how to adjust the sailis to move the sail toward the flutteringtelltales.

E If the leeward (farthest away from thewind’s direction) telltale is fluttering,ease out the sail toward the telltale orturn the boat away from the telltale untilit flows smoothly.

E If the windward (closest to the directionfrom which the wind is coming) telltaleis fluttering, either sheet in the jib towardthe telltale or turn the boat away from thetelltale until it stops fluttering and flowssmoothly.

Air flow is smooth on both sides of the jib, and the telltales are bothstreaming back.

This jib is sheeted in too tight, air flow is turbulent on the outside(leeward ) side of the sail as indicated by the fluttering telltale. Easethe jib sheet out to get smooth air flow.

The windward telltale (on side closest to the wind) is fluttering,indicating turbulence on that side of the sail. Sheet in the jib until thetelltale stops fluttering.

TOO TIGHT

JUST RIGHT

TOO LOOSE

windward telltale

leeward telltale

windward telltale

leeward telltale

windward telltale

leeward telltale

KeelboatOz p.40-92 21/2/06 4:53 PM Page 40

Your First Sail 41

This mainsail is sheeted just right. Theair flow is smooth on both sides of thesail, and the telltale at the back end(leech) is streaming back.

This mainsail is sheeted in too tightly. Airflow is turbulent on the outside (leewardside) of the sail as indicated by thefluttering telltale. Ease the mainsheet outto get smooth air flow. Many beginningsailors tend to trim mainsails too tight.Remember the saying,“When in doubt,let it out!”

The mainsail here is trimmed too loose.Turbulent flow is indicated by a backingon the forward edge of the mainsail(luff).

JUST RIGHT

TOO TIGHT

TOO LOOSE


42 Your First Sail

Sailing in the GrooveAs you learn to sail close to the wind,you will develop a technique called“sailing in the groove.” The groove is aninvisible sailing angle where your boat ismaking progress toward the wind (towindward), but also moving smoothlyand steadily through the water andheeling a comfortable amount. Findingthe groove and staying there can be a bitof a challenge at first, but sailors soonlearn how to “feel it” when their boat isin the groove. Some call this “sailing bythe seat of their pants.” The bestreferences are your boat’s speed, howmuch it heels (angle of heel) and thetelltales on the jib.

The No-Go Zoneextends about45˚ off bothsides of the eyeof the wind.

What is “The Groove”Experienced helmsmen don’t sail aperfectly straight course upwind. Theysubtly “snake” a course along the edgeof the No-Go Zone—first sailingcloser to the wind to gain distance towindward, then heading back awayfrom the wind a bit to maintain goodspeed. This technique is called sailingin the groove.

NO-GOZONE

No-Go Zone

WIND

WIND

Telltales streamback when windflow is smoothand flutterupward whenflow is turbulent.


Here’s how to do it:With sails trimmed in, sail as hightoward the wind as you can whilemaintaining steady speed A. Thewindward telltale will be flowingback. You are on the edge of the No-Go Zone. Now, carefully steer theboat a bit more toward the wind untilyou see the jib start to flutter (luff )and feel the boat start to slow downB. You’ll also feel the boat becomemore upright because there is lesspower from the sails. The windwardtelltale is now fluttering. At this point,smoothly steer back down away fromthe wind until the jib stops luffingand you feel your boat speed pick upagain. That’s it! Now repeat theprocess. NOTE: If you sail too faraway from the wind C, you’ll feelthe boat heeling too much andyour boat speed will drop.Too much heel slows theboat’s movement throughthe water. Simply edge back uptoward the wind again.

Your First Sail 43

Leeward telltalesfluttering, too much heel.

Windward telltalesfluttering, less heel.

Both telltales streaming back, comfortable heel.

A JUST RIGHT

B TOO HIGH

C TOO LOW

No-Go Zone

WIND

windward telltale

leeward telltale

windward telltale

leeward telltale

windward telltale

leeward telltale


44 Your First Sail

Tacking Step-by-StepYou’ve already learned that tacking is changing aboat’s direction by first turning the bow towardthe wind (heading up), then through the wind (orNo-Go Zone), and away from the wind to a newdirection. You’ve also learned that whenever thebow turns through the wind, the sails will crossfrom one side to the other. Now you’ll learn howto tack.

In sailing, always remember that preparation andcommunication are key to the safety of your crewand enjoyment of your sail. These two factors areessential in all phases of the sport, includingleaving the marina, anchoring, responding toemergencies, and tacking and gybing. Know whatyou are going to do and how you are going to doit. Talk to your crew…and listen.

Preparing to Tack The boat is on a beam reach with the windcoming over the left (port ) side of the boat.Helmsman heads up towards the wind andsheets on the sails in order to get goodboat speed for tacking. He then calls“Prepare to tack”. The crew checks to makesure the jib sheets are clear and ready torun out, then uncleats and holds theworking jib sheet and gets ready to sheetin the lazy jib sheet before responding,“Ready! ”

“Prepare to Tack”

Tack Is CompletedOnce the tack is completed thehelmsman centres the tiller andsteers for the reference picked atthe beginning of the tack. Thecrew adjust the mainsail and jibfor the new direction. The jibsheets are then coiled and readiedfor the next tack.

“Ready!” “Ready!”

WIND


Your First Sail 45

Heaving-to If you want or need to stopsailing for awhile, for instance tocheck a chart or relax for lunch,the best way is to heave-to. Thisholds your position with the sailsand rudder countering eachother as the boat drifts forwardand to leeward (downwind).Always check that you haveplenty of room to driftdownwind before heaving-to.

To heave-to, steer your boat so it issailing close to the wind with the jibsheeted tightly.Tack the boat but do not uncleat the jibsheet so the jib will become aback or“backed”. Move the tiller toward the mainsailand, after the boat has settled down,secure the tiller to leeward.Trim the mainsail so the boat lies at anupwind angle.

Turn Toward the Wind (Heading Up)

Turn Away From theWind (Heading Down) As the helmsman steers through thewind, the jib blows across the bowand the former lazy sheet is sheetedin (a couple of wraps around awinch may be necessary to hold itagainst the load). The helmsmancrosses over to the other side as themainsail crosses over the cockpit.

Tiller tied toturn the boattowards the

wind

Mainsailsheeted inYou may need to trim the maindifferently ondifferent boats.Experiment andlearn.

“Tacking!”

WIND

Tiller toward sail

Jib aback


After the crew have announced they are ready, the helmsman calls out “Tacking!” to announce the begginning of the tack, and starts to turn the boat into the wind (tiller towards sail). As the boat turns into the wind the sails begin to luff. When the forward edge of the job is luffing, the crew releases the working jib sheet so the jib can cross over to the other side.

46 Your First Sail

Gybing Step-by-StepAs you have already learned,gybing is changing the directionof the boat while passing thestern through the wind. Again,preparing and communicatingwith your crew is essential for asmooth, controlled and safemanoeuvre.

It is important to be aware of theboom crossing the boat and to keepyour head down!

Preparing to Gybe Helmsman checks wind direction and selects referenceto steer for after completion of gybe, and then calls out,“Prepare to gybe! ”. The crew check the sheets tomake sure they are ready to run out and uncleat theworking jib sheet and mainsheet before responding,“Ready! ”.

“Prepare togybe!”

“Ready!”

WIND


Your First Sail 47

Turn Away from the Wind (Bearing Away)

Turn Stern Through the Wind Helmsman continues to turn the boat and the main issheeted into the centre. As the stern crosses the wind,the jib crosses over to the other side and the formerworking jib sheet is released. Just before the boomflops across, the helmsman calls out “Gybing! ”as a warning that the boom is coming across. In lighter winds the crew may simply grab the mainsheet or the boom and throw the sail to the the other side of the boat. As the main crosses the centre, the helmsman breaifly steers against the turn.

EVERYONE KEEPS HIS OR HER HEAD SAFELYDOWN AS THE BOOM CROSSES THE COCKPIT!

Turn Toward the Wind (Heading Up) As soon as the boom has crossed the cockpit, thecrew let the mainsail run out to keep the boat fromrounding up (turning too much) and sheet in theformer lazy jib sheet. The helmsman heads the boatup toward the wind and steers for the reference,while the crew adjust the sails.

“Gybing!”

WIND


After the crew respond, “Ready!” the helmsman calls out “Gybing!”and slowly turns the boat away from the wind (tiller away from sail). The crew members ease the working job sheet and start to sheet in the mainsail.

48 Your First Sail

Returning to a MarinaWhen returning to a marina, BEPREPARED! Have the fenders hung atthe right height to safeguard the hull.Have the mooring warps attachedproperly to the boat and strung underthe lifelines so they are ready to be used.Once you are ready to approach theberth, do it carefully and make sure thecrew know what tasks they are requiredto perform.

When coming alongside, ease out your sails on yourapproach to slow the boat A. As you come closer, steer up intothe wind, letting the sails luff. Coast to a stop along the pontoonB. If the berth is short or has limited space you will want tomake your approach more slowly.

Sailing into a MarinaIn making your approach ease the sails toslow your speed. Further decrease yourspeed, if necessary, by sailing the boat backand forth on its course A. Once you are sureyour speed is correct (fast enough to get youinto the marina but not fast enough to bangyour bow), head into the marina B. If yourspeed is slightly high going into the berth,push the boom out to backwind the mainsailto help stop the boat. (Your instructor willshow you how.)

WIND

A

A

B

B

NO-GOZONE


Your First Sail 49

Tying Up at the MarinaCrew members should step off theboat onto the marina. DO NOTJUMP! Falling on the marina orbetween the marina and the boatis a painful way to end your sail.Nothing other than a fendershould be put between the boatand the marina.

Before you leave the boat, doublecheck that the lines ashore are tiedsecurely with the right amount oftension. All lines cleated on themarina berth should be securedwith a cleat hitch (see photobelow).

Mooring WarpsE Bow and stern lines keep the

boat close to the marina berth,but do not prevent it fromsurging forward or backward inthe wind or waves.

E Spring lines cross each otherto keep the boat from movingforward and backward.

Tillersecured

Boomsecured

withcleated

mainsheetand

traveller

Bow Line

Aft (or after)Bow Spring

Fendersin place

Stern Line

ForwardQuarterSpring

Cleated lines ashore shouldalways be secured with acleat hitch


50 After the First Sail

Adjusting Sail Shape Sails are not flat. They havecurvature, or shape, built intothem. The shape of a sail canbe adjusted to give it morecurvature (fuller) or lesscurvature (flatter). In lightwind conditions, you want afull sail shape for greaterpower. As the wind increasesyou want to depower, ormake the sail flatter, to keepthe boat under control andsailing well.

The cunningham, named afterits inventor Briggs Cunning-ham, is a system used totension the forward edge (luff )of the sail. This changes theshape of the sail and“depowers” it in higher winds.Tightening the outhaul helps todepower the bottom of the sail.

Power-up for Light Wind A fuller sail shape adds power.

Ease the cunningham

Ease the outhaul

Depower for Stronger Winds A flatter sail shape reduces power.

Tighten the cunningham

Tighten the outhaul


After the First Sail 51

Depowering SailsTo keep stronger winds fromoverpowering the boat, youcan trim the sails to spill theexcess wind (depower).Adjusting sail trim this waykeeps a boat balanced andsailing at its best. As windsincrease, or during gusts,depower your sails to helpkeep the boat in balance,decrease heel and makesteering easier.

Depowering with theMainsheetEasing the mainsheet a bitcauses the boom to rise andmove to leeward. The top of themainsail then twists away fromthe wind, reducing power.

Depowering with the TravellerEasing the traveller allows the boom and thesail to move to leeward without changing thetwist of the sail. This decreases pressure on thesail, decreasing heel and making steeringeasier.

Top of sail twists awayfrom wind, losing power.

Entire sail rotates away fromthe wind, losing power

Ease the mainsheet

Ease thetraveller



BalanceYou can steer a boat with its sails instead of its rudder becauseof a principle called balance. A sailboat is a collection of forcesin motion, not all of which are headed in the same direction.There are forces exerted by the mainsail and the jib, both ofwhich pull the boat forward and sideways. There are opposingforces exerted by the water on the keel and rudder.

When all of these forces are in balance, the boat will sailforward in a straight line. If they are not, the boat will want toturn. This is why you are able to steer the boat by trimming inor easing either the mainsail or jib. By doing so, you areconsciously throwing the boat out of balance.

As your sailing skills improve, you will use the principle ofbalance more and more to get the best performance out of yourboat and execute more advanced manoeuvres. For now, justunderstanding balance will help explain why certain things arehappening on your boat.

Forcefrom

rudderForce from

keel

Force frommainsail

Force from jib

Force from rudder

Force from keel

Force frommainsail

The wind in the sails tries to push the boat sideways, but thisis counteracted by the resistance of the keel and rudder blade

in the water under the boat. As a result of these two forcesacting against one another, the boat goes forward like an

orange pip squeezed between finger and thumb.

Forcefrom jib



Tacking AnglesYou can reach an upwind destination in severalways. If the course is not obstructed you cantake a long zig and a long zag. In a channel orriver you may need to use a series of short zig-zags to reach your destination. Sailing upwindrequires course changes of about 90˚ in mostboats. A handy way to estimate your courseafter the next tack, is to sight to windward(toward the wind) directly off the side of theboat.

Gybing AnglesSailing downwind allows a lot more freedom inyour course and point of sail. Sailing with thewind, you can sail more directly toward yourdestination. Even though the wind is comingfrom behind, it is desirable to keep the windcoming over one side of the boat or the other,not directly behind.

Tacking to an upwind destination isaccomplished through a series oftacks where you sail as close to thewind as possible.

When tacking,your courseoptions areunlimited but the angle of yourtacks is alwaysthe same: about 90˚.

Similar to tackingupwind, you can use

either just one or aseries of gybes to

head downwind

Gybing angles are a lot moreflexible and less structured

than tacking angles. With thewind coming from behind, you

do not have to contend withthe No-Go Zone.

WIND WIND



Wind Shifts - UpwindEven the steadiest wind isconstantly changing itsdirection (shifting). Thesechanges range from almostunnoticable to major swingsin direction. Wind shifts playa major role in how you sailupwind. When the windshifts, it moves your No-GoZone towards one side or theother, affecting the courseyou are able to sail. Yourespond to these changes ofwind direction by heading upor bearing away. In trulylarge wind shifts, you mighteven tack if the new tack willkeep you sailing closer toyour destination than yourcurrent one.

1 Here a boat and itscrew are sailing upwind“in the groove.”

2 Shift AftHere the wind has shifted aft,also shifting the No-Go Zoneand the groove. The helmsmanrecognizes the change in winddirection and heads up. A windshift that allows you to head upmore is called a lift.

3 Shift ForwardHere the wind has shiftedforward from the originaldirection. In order to keepfrom sailing in the No-Go

Zone, the helmsman steersdown until the boat is in the

groove again. A wind shift thatforces you to steer down iscalled a header (or knock).

NO-GOZONE

NO-GOZONE

NO-GOZONE

WIND

WIND

WIND



Wind Shifts and DistanceWind shifts (headers and lifts) domore than force you to change yourcourse. They also shorten orlengthen the distance you will needto sail to reach a destinationupwind. The example here showshow a header shortens the distancesailed to an upwind destination.

WIND

WIND

In this example, a boat issailing upwind toward abuoy. If wind direction Ushifts forward to winddirection U, the boat canreach the buoy sailing lessdistance. Because the boathad to head down inresponse to the wind shift,the shift is called a header.

Expert Tip: When sailing upwind inshifty wind, always sail onthe tack that has the closestangle to your destination.That way, you will be sailingthe shortest distance (andthe fastest course) to whereyou want to go. Try it!

After being headed and thentacking, the helmsman of thisboat made excellent time andprogress to his destination.

Tack E

Tack E

U

U

A

B

A

B

SHIFT



More Leaving and Returning to aMarinaYou don’t always leave and return to the marinaunder the ideal conditions described earlier.Awareness of the wind conditions, forethought,and knowledge of sail handling are necessaryfor approaching and departing, particularlywhen weather conditions offer a challenge.

Downwind ApproachThe returning methods described on page 48 coveredsituations where your approach to a berth was made on areach followed by a turn into the wind and No-Go Zone tostop the boat. In this case the boat is making its approachby sailing downwind. The disadvantage of this method isthat you have less control of your boat speed since youcannot luff your sails effectively to slow down when sailingdownwind. Here’s how to do the downwind approach:A Sail downwind until the boat is three to six boat lengths

downwind of the berth.B Turn toward the berth with sails luffing and coast to a

stop.or...

C Turn directly into the wind with sails luffing and coastto a stop.

Backward DepartureThere may be times when you will have to sail the boatbackward to leave the berth. Here’s how to do it:A Back away: push the boom out all the way in the

direction you want the bow to turn (in this caseto the left, or port) and hold out (back ) the jib to theopposite direction. Centre the tiller. The boat will sailbackward.

B Turn out of the No-Go Zone: as soon as the boat hascleared the berth, turn the tiller toward the mainsail (thesame direction you want the bow to turn) to turn out ofthe No-Go Zone.

C Sail away: when the boat has turned out of the No-GoZone and is pointed in the desired direction, release thejib and sheet it in on the correct side, trim the mainsailand centre the tiller.

Leeward side of berth

Leeward side

of berthWIND

B

A

B

C

C

A



Windward Side DepartureWindward side departures should be avoided. If at all possible,you should move your boat to the leeward side of the berth. If youever have to make a windward departure, here’s how to do it:A With sails lowered, but ready to raise, move your boat to the

end of the berth.B At the end of the berth, raise the jib and push the boat away

from the berth. Once clear of the berth, sheet in the jib to getthe boat moving.

C When the boat has picked up enough speed, turn the boat intothe wind and hoist the mainsail. Once the mainsail is up, turnto your course.

Windward Side ApproachThere may be times when you have no choice but to return to thewindward side of the berth. The key point is to lower themainsail when the boat is to windward of the berth and thendrift down to it either with the jib up or lowered. Whetherto leave the jib up depends on the conditions and theboat. If it’s windy, it is usually a good idea to dropthe jib so you won’t drift downwind too quickly. It isvery important that everyone is thoroughly briefedand understands what they should do and when,because timing is key to the success of awindward side approach. Make sure the fendersare in place before lowering the mainsail.A Turn into the wind and drop your mainsail. Stow it so it won’t

get in the way.B Turn downwind toward the berth, using the jib to adjust your

speed.C As you get near the marina, let the jib luff completely or lower it.

A crew member should be positioned with bow line in hand tostep off the boat on to the berth and help slow the boat, ifnecessary by taking a turn around a cleat on the pontoon.

Windwardside of berth

Windwardside of berth

WIND

WIND

C

21

A

C

B



Knots and LinesA good knot is one that issecure with good holdingpower. It should also comeuntied easily, in case of anemergency. There are manyknots used in sailing but sixbasic, easy-to-tie knots willhandle most, if not all, of yourneeds. Learn the knots wellbecause an improperly tiedknot is useless or worse.

The BowlineThe bowline (BOE-lin) puts a non-slipping loop at the end of a line. The knotbecomes more secure under pressure, but remains easy to untie. It is the mostcommonly used knot on sailboats. Among its many applications, the bowline isused to attach the jib sheets to the clew of the jib.

To tie a bowline, put a smallloop in the line where you want

the knot to be. Make sure theend crosses on top of the

standing part of the line. Thissmall loop will end up as part of

the knot.

Run the end up through the loopyou just made, down behind thestanding part, back up over the

edge of the loop, and downthrough the loop again.

Snug the knot together, makingsure the knot holds and the

remaining loop does not slip.

Laid line (top) consists of threelarge strands twisted around oneanother. When made of nylon, it isvery strong but can be rough on thehands. Laid line stretches, whichmakes it excellent for anchor rodesand lines ashore. Flexible braidedline (bottom) made of polyester isexcellent for halyards and sheets.Polyester does not stretch as muchas nylon, and braided line isrelatively gentle on the hands.



Figure-8 KnotThe figure-8 knot looks like its name. Itis sometimes called a stopper knot andis tied on the end of a line to keep theline from slipping through a fitting.Easy to untie, it is commonly used onthe ends of the jib sheets in thecockpit.

Pass the end overthe standing part.

Cross the endback under

the standingpart.

Bring the enddown through theloop. Tighten theknot.

Reef KnotThe reef knot is used only for saillashings. It is not recommended fortying two lines together because it canbe difficult to untie.

Tie a simple overhand knot with theright end going over the left.

Tie another simple overhand knot, thistime crossing left end over right end.

As you tighten the line the knot shouldbe symmetrical.

Sheet BendA sheet bend is used to tie twodifferent sized lines together. It lookslike a bowline, and it is secure andeasy to untie.

Make a loop at the end of thesmaller line, with the end

crossing over on top. Run thelarger line up through the loop.

Run the larger line down aroundthe standing part of the smaller

line, up over the edge of the loop,and down through the loop again.

Tighten theknot.



Simply cutting through a line willcause the cut ends to fray. The endsof a cut line should be whipped.Whipping a line by wrapping theend of it with thread will protect itfrom fraying and unravelling. It’sbest to whip the line before cuttingit. Another alternative with syntheticlines is to use an electric hot knifeto cut and fuse the ends.

Round Turn and Two Half-hitchesThis knot should use a loop to securea line to an object.

Wrap the end of the line twicearound the object.

Cross the end over the outside ofthe standing part.

Use the end to tie two half-hitches onto the standing part.

Clove HitchA clove hitch is used to tie a line to anobject. It is not a very secure knot. It isvery easily untied but, with an extrahalf-hitch, can be used to secure atiller.

Wrap a loop of the endaround the object.

Cross over the standing part and wrapa second loop around the object.

Tuck the end under the crossingyou just made and tighten.



Heaving a LineWhen preparing to throw a line, makesure one end is secured. Hold half of thecoil in your throwing hand and the otherhalf in your other hand. Swing and throwthe coil underhand, allowing theremainder of the line to run free fromyour other hand.

When coiling a line, one handmakes a new loop which isfed onto the other handholding the loops previouslycoiled. With some lines, ithelps to twist the line slightlyas you coil to avoid kinks ortwists in the line.

Line HandlingA line should not be simply left in atangled pile, but should always be readyto use or release by leaving it coiled.

To stow a coiled line, wrap the end of theline around the middle of the coil. Make a

loop and pass it through and over theupper end of the coil.


62 The Sailing Environment

Weather BasicsLocal newspapers, radio andtelevision, all provideforecasts that keep sailorsinformed about predictedwind speed and direction andweather changes. Weathermessages and reports are alsoavailable from state maritimeauthorities by telephone andthere are web sites on theinternet that give out marineforecasts and weatherwarnings.You should always check forexpected weather conditions.

Cumulus clouds, which are large,white and fluffy, are often an indicatorof good weather. Wispy, thin cirrus clouds usually

mean good weather for the day, butmay be a prediction that a change inweather is on the way.

Towering cumulonimbus clouds, or“thunderheads”, are usuallyaccompanied by severe conditions,including heavy rain and lightning.

Low layered stratus clouds usuallybring steady rain.

Weather maps help you predictwhat kind of weather to expect on thewater. High pressure systems (u)usually indicate good, mild weather,while low pressure systems (u) areusually accompanied by a warm orcold front and inclement weather.

Weather Forecasts: The MarineWeather Services of the Bureau ofMeteorology broadcast automatedweather forecasts on HF every 4 hoursand warnings every hour.Weather forecasts are transmitted onHF/VHF radio at regular intervals bystate and territory agencies around theAustralian coastline.Many volunteer coast groups provideweather details on 27 MHz, VHF andMF/HF radio from local stations onrequest.Certain Limited Coastal Radio Stationsalso transmit forecasts at scheduledtimes.

H

L

Reproduced by kind permission of the Bureau of Meteorology


The Sailing Environment 63

Land Effects Wind conditions can be affected by nearby land features. Islands, tall buildings, even anchored ships cast wind shadows (areasof less wind) on their leeward sides. Sailing from fresh winds into one of these wind shadows greatly depowers a sailboat.

Sea BreezesOne of the most dominant windson the Australian coastline is thesea breeze. Most early mornings,especially in summer, bring calmconditions to the waters near thecoast. As the sun heats up theland, thermal air currents beginto rise off the land, creating avacuum which in turn draws coolair off the sea. As the dayincreases and the heat builds,the air drawn off the seabecomes quite a strong breeze –the sea breeze, which can extendup to 20 nautical miles out to seaand pick up a wind speed of 15to 20 knots. This sea breeze isalways strongest close to thecoastline and brings good sail-ing conditions for sailors andcool relief to the coast. On theeast coast it is known as the“Nor’Easter” and on the westcoast as the “Fremantle Doctor”.

WIND

WIND

Hot air rising from shore

Land Land

Land

Cooler air over water

Windshadow



Tides and CurrentsTides are the vertical change ofwater level and are causedprimarily by the gravitational pullof the moon on the earth. As themoon rotates around the earth, it“pulls” the earth’s water toward it,creating a wave which travelsacross the world’s oceans causingthe water to rise and fall as itpasses, thus creating high and lowtides in harbours and estuaries. Inmost parts of the world there aretwo high and two low tides a day,but due to geographicabnormalities this is not always thecase. Due to the many islands tothe north, tidal conditions in thenorthern waters of Australia maybe quite different to those aroundother parts of the coastline.

Currents are the horizontalmovement of water caused by riverflow, wind or ocean movements.The East Australian Current runsfrom outside the Great BarrierReef down the east coast of thecontinent to Tasmania and canreach speeds greater than 5 knots.In inshore waters, currents canalso be created by the movementof tides. Depending on their direction,these currents can either assist orhinder your progress while sailing.It is important to know thedirection and strength of currents.Charts, tide tables and a watch arehelpful in planning your sail.

These photos, taken at the same location, show the difference betweenhigh and low tide. Consulting a tide table and a chart will help youavoid running aground during a low tide.

While the photos above demonstrate tide, these charts from a nauticalalmanac show current coming in (flooding) and going out (ebbing).Charts courtesy Reeds Nautical Almanac

Current isusually strongerin deeper water

Current isusually weakerin shallow water

Current usuallyruns faster through

narrow openings



Reading Tides and CurrentThere are a number ofindicators on the water andshoreline that will tell you whatthe tide and currents are doing.

A pile that is dry above the waterlevel indicates that the tide is rising.When the pile above the water is wet, the tide is falling. Abeach can provide the same information as the pile. A drybeach is indicative of a rising tide; a wet beach is a sign of afalling tide.

Compensating for CurrentIf you are going to sail across a current you cancompensate for the effect it will have on your boat.Instead of steering directly toward your goal, steerfor a point upstream, and let the current push youback to your desired course.

This boat aimeddirectly fordestination QXbut was pusheddownstream bythe current.

This boat steered acourse upstream of QXand reached itsdestination as planned.

Rising tide

Falling tide

CURRENT

Photo courtesy Anne Martin

Current pulls on this buoy, causingit to lean, and leaves a wake as itflows from left to right.

boat

head

ing

boat

head

ing

actual

path

actua

l path

x x



Basic Navigation RulesThe “rules of the road” thatapply to all vessels on the highseas and connected waters arecalled the InternationalRegulations for the Preventionof Collisions at Sea (Col Regs).The basic rules are as follows:The boat that has right-of-way isthe stand-on vessel and shouldmaintain course and speed. Thegive-way vessel must keep outof the way and should make itschange of course obvious andearly. It is always a vessel’s oblig-ation to avoid collisions, even ifit has the right-of-way.

A sailboat on a starboard tack hasthe right-of-way over a sailboat ona port tack. As boats on oppositetacks approach each other, the boaton the port tack is the give-wayvessel. Its skipper should changecourse and aim behind the stern ofthe starboard tack boat. The boaton starboard tack is the stand-onvessel and should hold its course.

When approaching another boat on the same tack, thewindward vessel, the boat upwind, is the give-wayvessel and should yield to the leeward vessel bysteering behind it. The leeward vessel is the stand-onvessel and should hold its course.

A boat that is passing another should NOT expectthe slower boat to clear a path. The boat that is

doing the passing is the give-way vessel and itsskipper must change course to manoeuvre around

the slower craft. The boat being overtaken is thestand-on vessel and should hold its course.

F Starboard Tack over Port Tack

F Leeward Vessel over Windward Vessel

Overtaken Vessel over Overtaking Vessel E

When sailing on starboard tack, the wind is coming over the right (starboard ) side of

the boat. When sailing on port tack, the windis coming over the left (port ) side of the boat.



In general, the priority forstand-on vessels, from top tobottom is:1 A disabled vessel.B A vessel that is difficult to

manoeuvre, such as a dredge.C A vessel restricted by draft,

such as a tanker in a channel.D A vessel engaged in

commercial fishing.E A sailboat.F A powerboat.

If you have any doubts, yield to theother craft! Be especially wary of apowerboat. Until you see it turn,don’t assume a powerboat will yieldto you.

STAY ALERT. BE SAFE!If you have any doubts about theother vessel’s action, do not steeracross its bow. If you are the give-way vessel, make your coursechange early and obvious to theother vessel.

Because a powerboat (or sailboatunder power) is more manoeuvrable,it must yield to a sailboat. Thesailboat is the stand-on vessel andshould hold its course unless theother boat comes uncomfortablyclose. Then the sailboat should takeevasive action.

Ships and tugs with tows havedifficulty in manoeuvring. Always givethem a wide berth and you must giveway when they are in a channel. If yousee a tugboat crossing ahead, lookwell behind it to check if a barge isbeing towed. NEVER try to cross thecable between a tug and its tow.

F Sailboats over Powerboats

Stay Clear of Large Vessels E



Basic Navigation AidsBuoys and channel markers are likeroad signs and traffic markers on thewater. While there are many kinds ofbuoys and channel markers in use inAustralia, the most common ones fallinto the categories shown here. Theyhave distinct shapes and colours thatwill help you sail your boat in and outof harbours safely and avoid shallowwater. A basic rule to help youremember is “Green to green, Red tored. Perfect safety, go ahead”. Thismeans that all green markers arepassed on the same side as your boat’sgreen navigation light (starboard side)and all red markers are passed on thesame side as your red navigation light(port side) when coming into a portfrom seaward. Obviously the situationis reversed when sailing back downharbour and heading for the open seas.

Most buoys, channel markers andother navigation aids are marked onnautical charts. Local charts of yoursailing area are available at mostmarine supply stores. It’s a good idea tostudy a chart of your local area to getfamiliar with the “traffic signs” you willbe encountering as you sail.

A green buoy marks the righthand (starboard) side of a

channel when entering aharbour. It is mostly conical

in shape and may be fittedwith a green or white lightand given an odd number.

When you are leaving aharbour it marks the left hand

side of the channel.

A red buoy marks the left hand(port) side of a channel whenentering harbour. It is mostlycan shaped and may be fittedwith a red light and given aneven number. When you areleaving the harbour it marks

the right hand side of thechannel.

Beacons and piles are sometimesused to mark channels and other

hazards. If they carry a red squarethey mark the left side of a channel

or danger, when coming into harbourfrom the sea …

and if they have a green triangle theymark the right side of the channel orhazard when coming into harbourfrom the sea.

Green or red lighted buoysare usually located in

harbours or estuaries tomark the channels. Each has

a distinct flashing patternthat is indicated on a chart so

it can be readily identified.

74



Reading a ChartA chart shows not only the channels and the buoys, but also theshorelines, the water depth, obstructions, shoals, the positions of wrecksand characteristics of the bottom. In addition, it indicates the positions oflandmarks, lighthouses and much more. At the edge of the chart is animportant note: “Soundings in Feet”, “Depths in Metres” or “Soundingsin Fathoms”. This tells you how the water depth is measured on thechart. A metre is a little over three feet, while a fathom is precisely sixfeet (1.83 metres). Always check which measurement is used to indicatewater depths (soundings) on your chart.

The small numbersscattered throughout thewater are soundings, ordepths, at low tide at thoseparticular points.

Charts also indicatenoteworthy bottomtopography, such ashazardous rocks, sunkenships and other hiddendangers.

Charts also indicateonshore landmarks thatcan be used as navigationreferences. Here a watertower is indicated.

A contour line follows aconstant water depth. Onmost charts, areas ofshallower waters areindicated by a light bluearea.

On a chart channel buoysare marked with conicalicons representingstarboard hand buoys andcan shaped icons markingport hand buoys. Lightedbuoys are indicated by apurple flash and thecharacteristic of the light ismarked beside it.

A compass rose (right) is printed on every nauticalchart. If your boat has a compass, you use the

compass rose to relate your boat’s compass heading(direction) to a chart and vice versa. The circle

indicates the degrees of the compass relative to thegeographic north pole. The pointer in the compassrose indicates the variation between true north and

the magnetic north pole (yes, they’re different). Yourboat’s compass relates to magnetic north.

Not to be used for navigation


70 Safety and Emergencies

Hypothermia and Heat EmergenciesSailors are often exposed toextreme conditions. Hot,sunny days with no wind, coldrainy days with too muchwind, prolonged exposure towind and spray — all of thethings that make sailingchallenging and fun can sneakup and bite you if you do nottake care of yourself. Yourbest preparation is toanticipate the extremes. Bringplenty of warm andwaterproof clothing if it mightget cool and wet. Drink plentyof fluids and wear a hat in hot,sunny weather. Nonetheless,hypothermia and heatemergencies can occur. Hereare some signs and solutions.

TREATMENT...Without prompt care, heat exhaustion can advanceto a more serious condition — heat stroke. First aidincludes:E Move person to cool environment.E Remove clothing soaked with perspiration and

loosen any tight clothing.E Apply cool, wet towels or sheets.E Fan the person.E Give person a half glass (125 ml) of cool water

every 15 minutes.

SIGNALS...E ShiveringE Impaired judgmentE DizzinessE NumbnessE Change in level of

consciousnessE WeaknessE Glassy stare(Physical symptoms mayvary since age, body sizeand clothing will causeindividual differences.)

SIGNALS...E Red, hot, dry or moist

skinE Very high skin

temperatureE Changes in level of

consciousnessE VomitingE Rapid, weak pulseE Rapid, shallow breathing

SIGNALS...E Cool, moist, pale skinE Heavy sweatingE HeadacheE DizzinessE NauseaE Weakness, exhaustion

TREATMENT...Medical assistance should be given to anyone withhypothermia. Until medical assistance arrives,these steps should be taken:E Check breathing and pulse.E Gently move the person to a warm place.E Carefully remove all wet clothing. Gradually

warm the person by wrapping in blankets orputting on dry clothes. Do not warm a persontoo quickly, such as immersing in warm water.Rapid rewarming may cause dangerous heartrhythms. Hot water bottles and chemical heatpacks may be used if first wrapped in a towel orblanket before applying.

E Give warm, nonalcoholic and decaffeinatedliquids to a conscious person only.

TREATMENT...Heat stroke is life threatening. Anyone sufferingfrom heat stroke needs to be cooled and a doctorshould be contacted immediately. To care for heatstroke:E Move person to cool environment.E Apply cool, wet towels or sheets.E If available, place ice or cold packs on the

person’s wrists and ankles, groin, each armpitand neck.

E If unconscious, check breathing and pulse.

HYPOTHERMIA

HEAT STROKE

HEAT EXHAUSTION


Safety and Emergencies 71

Electrical Hazards There are many hazards onthe water and some on yourown boat, but there’s one veryimportant one you need tolook up to see. Electrical pow-erlines can be deadly! Makesure you have the properclearance before passingunder powerlines, especiallywhen moving boats on trailersonshore. Remember to takeinto account higher water lev-els from tides, river runoff orrecent rains that may reducethe clearance of power linesabove your mast.

Another electrical danger insome regions is lightning.Should you be caught out in alightning storm, you shouldhead immediately for port andkeep your crew away from themast and any metal orelectrical components aboardyour boat.

Pre-Sailing ExercisesBefore any exercise, including sailing, you should warm up andloosen up by stretching. Keep yourself in reasonably goodcondition and before heading out, stretch out. These flexibilityexercises should be done for about 30 seconds. Do not stretchto the point of pain, only to increase flexibility.

Sailing requires movements in many unusual positions. Stretching before and after yousail will help minimise the stiffness and discomfort that commonly accompanies using newmuscle groups. NOTE: Do not engage in any of these exercises without consulting withyour doctor. Some of these exercises could adversely affect sailors who are not physicallyfit or have a history of back, shoulder or knee problems.

Lower legstretch30 secondson both legs.

Quadricepstretch30 secondson each leg.

Bicepstretch30 secondson each arm.

Shoulder &upper arm30 seconds oneach arm.

30 secondson each arm.

Shoulder &upper arm30 seconds oneach arm.



Overboard RecoveryWhen a crew member goes over the side,recovery time is of the essence. All sailorsmust know how to react quickly to a crewoverboard situation. Losing sight of the victimcorrelates very highly with loss of life.

Quick-Stop RecoveryThe hallmark of the Quick-Stop recovery method is theimmediate reduction of boat speed by turning to windward andthen manoeuvring slowly, remaining near the victim. In mostcases, this is better than reaching off, then gybing or tackingand returning on a reciprocal course.

1 As soon as a crew member falls overboard, shout “ManOverboard!” and designate a crew member to spot andpoint to the person in the water. The spotter should NEVERtake his or her eyes off the victim (see Figure 1).

2 Provide immediate flotation. Throw buoyant objects, suchas cockpit cushions, PFDs, fenders or life rings. Theseobjects may not only come to the aid of the victim, but will“litter the water” where he or she went overboard and helpyour spotter to keep him or her in view. It has beendetermined that the deployment of the pole and flag rig(dan buoy) requires too much time. The pole rig is saved to“put on top” of the person in case the initial manoeuvre isunsuccessful.

3 Bring the boat head-to-wind, trimming the mainsail toclose-hauled.

4 Allow the headsail to back and further slow the boat.5 Continue to turn with headsail backed, until the wind is

abaft the beam. Do not ease the sails.6 Head on beam-to-broad reach course for two or three

lengths then go nearly dead downwind.7 Drop the headsail, while keeping the mainsail centred (or

nearly so). The jib sheets are not slacked, even during thedousing manoeuvre, to keep them inside the lifelines.

8 Hold the downward course until the victim is abaft of thebeam.

9 Gybe.J Approach the victim on a course of approximately 45

degrees to 60 degrees off the wind.K Establish contact with the victim with a heaving line or

other device. A “throwing sock” containing 25 metres oflight floating line and a kapok bag can be thrown into thewind because the line is kept inside the bag and trails outas it sails to the victim.

L Effect recovery over the windward side.

Quickstop Under SpinnakerThe same procedure is used to accommodate a spinnaker.Follow the preceding instructions. As the boat comes head-to-wind and the pole is eased to the stay, the spinnaker halyard islowered and the sail is gathered on the fore deck. The turn iscontinued through the tack and the approach phasecommences.

Quickstop in Yawls and KetchesExperiment with your mizzen. During sea trials, it was foundbest to drop the mizzen as soon as possible during the earlyphases of Quick-Stop.

PAGE 94

WIND

1 2

3

4 5

6

7

K

L

Man overboard -point!

8

9

J



Lifesling-Type RecoveryWhen there are only two people sailing together and a man-overboard accident occurs, the remaining crew member mayhave difficulty in handling the recovery alone. If the victim hassustained injuries, getting him or her back aboard may bealmost impossible. This method of recovery is slower than theother method but is simple to effect by a singlehander and withonly one alteration to the Quick-Stop procedeure: the additionof the “Lifesling”, a floating horsecollar device that doubles as ahoisting sling. The Lifesling is attached to the boat by a lengthof floating line three of four times the boat’s length. When acrew member falls overboard the scenario should procede asfollows:

1 Throw a cushion or other buoyant objects to the victim whilethe boat is brought IMMEDIATELY head-to-wind, slowed andstopped. The main is trimmed to centreline.

2 The Lifesling is deployed by opening the bag that is hungon the pushpit and dropping the sling into the water. It willtrail out astern and draw out the remaining line.

3 Once deployed, the boat is sailed in a wide circle around the

The Lifesling is a floatingdevice attached to the boat by alength of floating line thatdoubles as a hoisting sling toretrieve a victim in the water. Ifthe side of the boat is too highto reach the victim, or thevictim is injured, the sling canbe used to hoist the person upand over the lifelines.

victim with the line and sling trailing. The jib is not tendedbut allowed to back from head-to-wind, increasing the rateof turn.

4 Contact is established with the victim by the line and slingbeing drawn inward by the boat’s circling motion. The victimthen places the sling over his or her head and under his orher arms.

5 Upon contact, the boat is put head-to-wind again, theheadsail is dropped to the deck or furled and the mainsail isdoused.

6 As the boat drifts slowly backward, the crew begins pullingthe sling and the victim to the boat. If necessary a cockpit winchcan be used to assist in this phase, which should continue untilthe victim is alongside and pulled up tightly until he or she issuspended in the sling (so that the victim will not drop out) andthe torso is out of the water.

This system is effective if the line length is preadjusted to avoidrunning over the line, and if the method is practiced to achievecompetence.

1

23

4

5 6

WIND



Shortening SailWhen the wind is too strong and your boat isheeling too much, you should shorten sail.Your boat will go just as fast and will be morein control with less sail area exposed to thewind.

Lowering the MainsailLowering the mainsail reduces the sail area considerably.With just the jib up, however, the boat is no longer inbalance. The wind pressure on the jib will tend to rotatethe bow of the boat away from the wind. To compensate,you will need to steer with the tiller pushed slightlytoward the mainsail B to keep the boat sailing straight.

Lowering the JibThe easiest way to reduce sail is to simply lower thejib. With just the mainsail up, however, the boat isno longer in balance. The wind pressure on themainsail will tend to rotate the bow of the boattoward the wind. To compensate, you will need tosteer with the tiller pulled slightly away from themainsail 1 to keep the boat sailing straight.

ReefingThe area of the mainsail may be reduced bylowering the sail partially and securing thelower portion to the boom.

B

A

PAGE 64b



Running AgroundRunning aground happens to almostevery sailor at some time. If you runaground on a soft, muddy bottomwith a rising tide, you’ll float offeasily with no damage to the boat.

If you get stuck, use the sails and crewweight to heel the boat. You may have to getsome crew members to sit on the boom and

slowly swing it out over the side to tilt theboat enough to raise the keel off the bottom.

If the boat remains stuck fast you will need toseek the assistance of a powerboat. It can either towyou off by pulling you ahead or astern, or by pulling

the mast down using the jib halyard from a beamposition. This must be done very carefully.

Knockdowns. A knockdown is when a boat heels over sofar that one of its spreaders touches the water. This usuallyhappens because it has been carrying too much sail for highwind conditions or because of a mistake by the helmsman orcrew. To recover from a knockdown:E Release the sheets and the boom vang.E Get the crew up to the windward rail.E If the rudder responds, head up until the sails luff.

Swamping. A knockdown may cause the boat to fill withwater if hatches are left open. If your boat becomes swamped:E Release the sheets.E Lower the sails.E Bail with buckets and bilge pump.

Sinking. If your boat is taking on water and is in danger ofsinking:E Make sure everyone is wearing a life jacket.E Bail with buckets and bilge pump.E If the boat has been holed, try to find the source of the leak

and plug it.E Try to sail to shore and run it aground before it goes down.E If the boat becomes completely swamped with decks

awash, and it looks like it will sink, DO NOT leave the boat— let it leave you by going down.

E Make sure you are not tangled in any lines.

MORE ON SAILING EMERGENCY PROCEDURES



AnchoringPreparation is the key to successfulanchoring. Before anchoring take downand stow the jib. Make sure theforedeck is clear except for the anchorand its line (rode), which should becoiled on the deck (laid out in largeloops) so it will run freely. If there is apulpit, make sure the anchor and rodewill run under it.

1 When everything is prepared, sailon a reach, about 3-6 boat lengthsdownwind of where you want to dropyour anchor. When you are directlydownwind of where you want to drop it,head up into the wind.

2 As the boatcomes to a stop,lower (do not throwor drop) the anchor.After it hits thebottom pay out theanchor line as youdrift back.

C When you’vereached the spot

where you want the boat toremain, firmly cleat off therode. Check for adequate

room to swing and that youranchor is holding. Then

lower your mainsail.

The Danforth anchor is very common.It is strong, lightweight, holds welland is easy to stow.

Intro Keelboat corrections.qxd 24/2/06 3:32 PM Page 1


ScopeThe amount of rode that you payout is not arbitrary. Scope is theratio of anchor rode to the depthof the water. A scope of 7:1 isconsidered adequate for mostconditions. This means that if thedepth of the water where you areanchoring is 3 metres you shouldpay out about 21 metres of rode.Remember charts list the depth ofthe water at low tide, so checkyour tide table to find the accuratedepth for the time you areanchoring.

Is your anchor holding?It’s good seamanship to makesure your anchor has a securehold on the bottom. Here’s aneasy method: Once you think theanchor is holding firmly, sighttwo objects that are aligned, forinstance, a buoy and a house.Both objects can be on shore,such as a fence post and atelephone pole. Do NOT useanother boat as one of yourobjects for sighting. If the two objects you

have sighted stayaligned 1, you are

not dragging. If theykeep getting furtherout of alignment B

your anchor is notholding.

A mooring buoycan be used as asighting object.

If your anchor is dragging,try paying out more rode.If that doesn’t correct theproblem, pull in the rode,pick up the anchor andstart over again.

Scope is the ratio of the length of your anchor rode 1 to the depth of the water B

1

1

B

B

B

A



Safety EquipmentThere are a number of safety requirementsspecified by the marine authorities in eachstate for sailors operating boats on lakes,rivers and the open ocean. Specific infor-mation can be gained from your relevantauthority. We have provided a list of theminimum safety equipment which shouldbe carried, though this can vary from stateto state. When sailing offshore, additionalsafety equipment may be required.

A well-equipped first aid kitis a necessity on any boat.

Safety ChecklistE Recreational boats are bound by state requirementsE Your boat must be registered in the state of principal use

and have a registration number displayed as per the staterequirements

E Vessels carrying any fuel must carry fire extinguisherssatisfying AS 1841.5 for dry chemical type or AS 1841.6for CO2, and they must be easily accessible

E Vessels required to carry a fire extinguisher should alsocarry a fire blanket

E There must be at least one Personal Flotation Device ofType 1, 2 or 3 per crew member on board depending onthe area of activity

E All vessels must carry an efficient sound signal deviceE Vessels operating or anchored between sunset and

sunrise are required to display appropriate navigationlights

E Boating accidents causing injury or death must bereported to the state authority or the police as soon aspossible. In some states it is also necessary to reportaccidents causing damage to property

E In open waters, alI vessels must carry flares and a Vsheet.

Recommended Safety EquipmentE Additional means of propulsion such as oars, paddle or

auxiliary power (as appropriate to the vessel)E A manual bailing device such as a bucket or bilge pumpE A basic first aid kit with manual, in a waterproof container E An anchor and anchor lineE A tool kit, spare parts and through-hull plugsE An HF, VHF or 27Mhz marine radioE Navigation charts and compassE Water resistant torchE If you are going into open waters it is recommended you

take an EPIRB. Depending on the size of the vessel a liferaft would also be recommended.



Signalling for Help Before you decide to ask for outside assistance, determine ifyou can take care of the problem yourself. You may be ableto get back to the harbour under your own power, or accepta tow from a friendly boat. If you do need to signal for help,use the signals, either separately or together, that arerecognised by the volunteer rescue organisations and statemaritime authorities.

International Distress Signals

E A smoke signal giving off orange-coloured smoke E A rocket parachute flare or a hand flare showing a red

lightE Flashlight or other device signaling SOS in the Morse

CodeE “Mayday” spoken over a radiotelephoneE Signals transmitted by an emergency position-indicating

radio beacon (EPIRB)E Display a “V” sheet — a large orange sheet with a big

black V on itE Fly the international code flags or signals “N” above “C”E Slowly and repeatedly waving both outstretched arms E A radiotelegraph or radiotelephone alarm signal.


80 APPENDIX

Rig Types

The sloop is the most common modernrig. It’s excellent for sailing upwind.

The cutter is a sloop withits mast near the middle ofthe hull, allowing space to

fly a second jib.

The ketch is another twomasted boat. The mizzen(smaller) mast is in front

of the rudder post.

The yawl has twomasts. Its mizzen

(smaller) mast is behindthe rudder post.

The schooner has two or more masts,with the tallest usually at the back.

The traditional gaff rig has a four-sided mainsail with a woodenspar (gaff) attached to the top.

Most modern multihulls aresloop-rigged. Their mainsailshave full-length battens and a

large curved roach (leech).

A cat rig has no jib. This two-masted example is also a ketchrig. Hence the name cat ketch.


APPENDIX 81

Hull Types

A monohull is a boat with a single hull.

The twin-hulled catamaran featuresspeed and acceleration.

The three-hulled trimaran can alsocarry a lot of sail for speed.

The traditional deep keel allows for a deep interiorand excellent straight-line tracking.

The fin keel and spade rudder reduces drag andimproves manoeuvrability.

A winged-keel allows ashallow keel to perform

more efficiently.A deep “wineglass” hullprovides gentle motion and

ample interior volume.

A shallow hull with a finkeel is a great performer,

especially downwind.A bulb keel concentrates

weight at its bottom,improving stability.

Some small keelboats have retractableoutboard rudders which allow them to travelin shallow waters and swing back on impact.

A spade rudderis efficient but

unprotected fromimpact.

A skeg-mountedrudder is strong and

well protected.


82 APPENDIX

AAbaft - behind, or towards the stern of the boat.Abeam - off the side of (at right angle to) the boat.Aboard - on the boat.Adrift - a boat drifting without control.Aft - at or toward the stern of the boat.Aground - a boat whose keel is touching the bottom.Amidships - toward the centre of the boat.Apparent wind - the combination of the true wind

(that which we feel when stationary) plus the windproduced by the motion of the boat.

Astern - behind the stern of the boat.Athwartships - across the boat from side to side.

BBackstay - the standing rigging running from the stern

to the top of the mast, keeping the mast from fallingforward.

Back - to stop or to propel a boat backward by holdingthe clew of a sail out to windward.

Bail - to empty a boat of water.Balance - the capability of a boat to sail straight

without changing the tiller position.Ballast - weight in the keel of a boat that provides

stability.Barometer - a weather forecasting instrument that

measures air pressure.Batten - a thin slat that slides into a pocket in the leech

of a sail, helping it hold its shape.Beam - the width of a boat at its widest point.Beam reach - (point of sail) sailing in a direction at

approximately 90 degrees to the wind.Bear away - to fall off, head away from the wind.Bearing - the direction from one object to another

expressed in compass degrees.Beating - a course sailed upwind.Below - the area of a boat beneath the deck.Bend - to attach a sail to a spar or a headstay, or to

attach a line to a sail.Berth - the structure where a boat may be tied up.Berthing - the act of bringing the boat to rest

alongside or into a berth.Bight - a loop in a line.Bilge - the lowest part of the boat’s interior, where

water on board will collect.Bitter end - the end of a line.Blanket - to use a sail or object to block the wind from

filling a sail.Block - a pulley on a boat.Boat hook - a pole with a hook on the end used for

grabbing hold of a mooring or retrieving somethingthat has fallen overboard.

Boat speed - the speed of a boat through the water.Bolt rope - the rope sewn into the foot and luff of

some mainsails and the luff of some jibs by which thesails are attached to the boat.

Boom - the spar extending directly aft from the mast towhich the foot of the mainsail is attached.

Boom vang - a block and tackle system which pulls theboom down to assist sail control.

Bow - the forward part of the boat.Bow line (BOW - line) - a line running from the bow

of the boat to the marina berth or mooring. Bowline - (BOE-lin) - a knot designed to make a loop

that will not slip and can be easily untied.Breast line - a short line leading off the beam of the

boat directly to the marina berth.Broach - an uncontrolled rounding up into the wind,

usually from a downwind point of sail.Broad reach - (point of sail) sailing in a direction with

the wind at the rear corner of the boat(approximately 135 degrees from the bow).

Bulkhead - a wall that runs athwartships on a boat,usually providing structural support to the hull.

Buoy - a floating marker.Buoyancy - the ability of an object to float.By the lee - sailing on a run with the wind coming over

the same side of the boat as the boom.

CCabin - the interior of a boat.Can - an even-numbered, red, flat-topped buoy marking

the left side of a channel as you return to port.Capsize - to tip or turn a boat over.Cast off - to release a line when leaving a marina berth

or mooring.Catamaran - a twin-hulled sailing vessel with a deck or

trampoline between the hulls.Catboat - a boat with only a mainsail and the mast

located at the bow.Centreboard - a board that can be lowered and used

like a keel to keep a boat from slipping to leeward.Centreline - the midline of a boat running from bow

to stern.Chafe - wear on a line caused by rubbing.Chainplates - strong metal plates which connect the

shrouds to the boat.Channel - a (usually narrow) path in the water, marked

by buoys, in which the water is deep enough to sail.Chart - a nautical map.Charter - to rent a boat.Chock - a guide mounted on the deck through which

mooring lines and anchor rode are run.Chop - rough, short, steep waves.


APPENDIX 83

Cleat - a nautical fitting that is used to secure a line.Clew - the lower, aft corner of a sail. The clew of the

mainsail is held taut by the outhaul. The jib sheetsare attached to the clew of the jib.

Close-hauled - the point of sail that is closest to thewind.

Close reach - (point of sail) sailing in a direction withthe wind forward of the beam (about 70 degreesfrom the bow).

Coaming - the short protective wall surrounding thecockpit.

Cockpit - the lower area in which the steering controlsand sail controls are located.

Coil - to loop a line neatly so it can be stored.Come about - see tack.Companionway - the steps leading from the cockpit

or deck to the cabin below.Compass - the magnetic instrument which indicates

the direction in which the boat is headed.Compass rose - the circle on a chart which indicates

the direction of true north and magnetic north.Course - the direction in which the boat is steered.Crew - besides the skipper, anyone on board who helps

sail the boat.Cunningham - a line running through a grommet

about 20cm up from the tack of a mainsail that isused to tighten the luff of the sail.

Current - the horizontal movement of water caused bytides, wind and other forces.

Cutter - a single-masted boat with the mast near themiddle capable of flying both a jib and a staysail.

DDaysailer - a small sailboat.Dead downwind - sailing in a direction straight

downwind.Deck - the mostly flat surface area on top of the boat.Depower - to release the power from the sails by

allowing them to luff or making them flatter. This isdone to reduce heel.

Dinghy - a small sailboat or rowboat.Displacement - the weight of a boat; therefore the

amount of water it displaces.Dodger - a canvas protection in front of the cockpit of

some boats that is designed to keep spray off theskipper and crew.

Downhaul - a line used to pull down on a movablegooseneck to tighten the luff of the mainsail. Thecunningham has the same function on other boats.

Downwind - away from the direction of the wind.Draft - the depth of a boat’s keel from the water’s

surface.

EEase - to let out a line or sail.Ebb - an outgoing current.

FFairlead - a fitting that guides a jib sheet or other lines

back to the cockpit or along the deck.Fairway - a channel.Fake - to lay out a line on deck using large loops to

keep it from becoming tangled.Fall off - see Head down.Fast - secured.Fathom - a measurement of the depth of water. One

fathom equals six feet (1.83 metres).Fender - a rubber bumper used to protect a boat by

keeping it from hitting a pontoon or another boatwhen rafted up.

Fend off - push off.Fetch - a course on which a boat can make its

destination without having to tack.Fitting - a piece of nautical hardware.Flood - an incoming current.Following sea - waves striking the boat from astern.Foot - the bottom edge of a sail.Fore - forward.Forepeak - a storage area in the bow (below the deck).Foresail - a jib or a genoa.Forestay - the standing rigging running from the bow

to the mast to which the jib is hanked on.Forward - toward the bow.Fouled - tangled.Freeboard - the height of the hull above the water’s

surface.Full - not luffing.Furl - to roll up a sail.

GGaff - on some boats, a spar along the top edge of a

four-sided sail.Gear - generic term for sailing equipment.Genoa - a large jib whose clew extends aft of the mast.Give-way vessel - the vessel required to give way to

another boat when they may be on a collision course.Glide zone - the distance a sailboat takes to coast to a

stop.Gooseneck - the strong fitting that connects the boom

to the mast.Goosewinged - sailing downwind with the jib set on

the opposite side of the mainsail.Grommet - a reinforcing metal ring set in a sail.Ground tackle - the anchor and rode (chain and line).


84 APPENDIX

Gudgeon - a fitting attached to the stern of a boat intowhich the pintles of a rudder are inserted.

Gunwale (GUN-el) - the edge of the deck where itmeets the topsides.

Gust - see puff.Gybe - to change direction of a boat by steering the

stern through the wind.“Gybe-oh” - the command given to the crew when

starting a gybe.

HHalyard - a line used to hoist or lower a sail.Hank - a snap hook that is used to connect the luff of a

jib onto the forestay.Hard over - to turn the tiller as far as possible in one

direction.Hatch - a large covered opening in the deck.Haul in - to tighten a line.Head - 1. - the top corner of a sail. 2. - the toilet on a

boat.Headboard - the reinforcing small board affixed to the

head of a sail.Header - a wind shift which makes your boat head

down or sails to be sheeted in.Heading - the direction of the boat expressed in

compass degrees.Head down - to fall off or bear away, changing course

away from the wind.Head off - see head down.Head up - to come up, changing course toward the

wind.Headsail - a jib, genoa or staysail.Headstay - the standing rigging running from the bow

to the mast.Head-to-wind - the course of the boat when the bow

is dead into the wind.Headway - progress made forward.Heave - to throw.Heave-to - to hold one’s position in the water by using

the force of the sails and rudder to counter oneanother.

Heavy weather - strong winds and large waves.Heel - the lean of a boat caused by the wind.Helm - the tiller.Helmsman - the person responsible for steering the

boat.High side - the windward side of the boat.Hike - to position crew members out over the

windward rail to help balance the boat.Hiking stick - see tiller extension.Hiking strap - a strap used by people hiking out that

holds their feet.

Holding ground - the bottom ground in an anchorageused to hold the anchor.

Hove-to - a boat that has completed the process ofheaving-to, with its jib aback, its main looselytrimmed and its rudder securely positioned to steer itclose to the wind.

Hull - the body of the boat, excluding rig and sails.Hull speed - the theoretical maximum speed of a

sailboat determined by the length of its waterline.

IInboard - inside of the rail of a boat.In irons - a boat that is head-to-wind, making no

forward headway.

JJib - the small forward sail of a boat attached to the

forestay.Jiffy reef - a quick reefing system allowing a section of

the mainsail to be tied to the boom.Jury rig - an improvised, temporary repair.

KKedge off - to use an anchor to pull a boat into deeper

water after it has run aground.Keel - the heavy vertical fin beneath a boat that helps

keep it upright and prevents it from slipping sidewaysin the water.

Ketch - a two-masted boat with its mizzen (after) mastshorter than its mainmast and located forward of therudder post.

Knock - see header.Knockdown - a boat heeled so far that one of its

spreaders touches the water.Knot - one nautical mile per hour.

LLand breeze - a wind that blows over land and out to sea.Lash - to tie down.Lay - to sail a course that will clear an obstacle without

tacking.Lazarette - a storage compartment built into the

cockpit or deck.Lazy sheet - the windward side jib sheet that is not

under strain.Lead (LEED) - to pass a line through a fitting or a

block.Lee helm - the boat’s tendency to turn away from the

wind.“Lee-oh” - the command given to the crew just prior

to tacking.Lee shore - land on the leeward side of the boat. As


APPENDIX 85

the wind is blowing in that direction, a lee shorecould pose a danger.

Leech - the after edge of a sail.Leeward (LEW-erd) - the direction away from the

wind (where the wind is blowing to).Leeward side - the side of the boat or sail that is away

from the wind.Leeway - sideways slippage of the boat in a direction

away from the wind.Lifeline - wire supported by stanchions, around the

outside of the deck to help prevent crew membersfrom falling overboard.

Lift - 1. - the force that results from air passing by asail, or water past a keel, that moves the boat forwardand sideways. 2. - a change in wind direction whichlets the boat head up.

Line - a nautical rope.Low side - the leeward side of the boat.Lubber’s line - a small post in a compass used to help

determine a course or a bearing.Luff - 1. - the forward edge of a sail. 2. - the fluttering

of a sail caused by aiming too close to the wind.Lull - a decrease in wind speed for a short duration.

MMagnetic - in reference to magnetic north rather than

true north.Mainmast - the taller of two masts on a boat.Mainsail (MAIN-sil) - the sail hoisted on the mast of a

sloop or cutter or the sail hoisted on the mainmast ofa ketch or yawl.

Mainsheet - the controlling line for the mainsail.Marina - a parking facility for boats.Marlinspike - a pointed tool used to loosen knots.Mast - the large aluminium or wooden pole in the

middle of a boat from which the mainsail is set.Masthead - the top of the mast.Mast step - the structure that the mast sits on.Mizzen - the small aftermost sail on a ketch or yawl

hoisted on the mizzen mast.Mooring - a permanently anchored ball or buoy to

which a boat can be tied.

NNautical mile - a distance of 6076 feet, equalling one

minute of the earth’s latitude.Navigation Rules - the International Regulations for

the Prevention of Collisions at Sea, established toprovide a safe code of conduct for all vessels.

No-Go Zone - an area into the wind in which a boatcannot produce power to sail.

OOffshore wind - wind blowing off (away from) the

land.Offshore - away from or out of sight of land.Off the wind - sailing downwind.On the wind - sailing upwind, close-hauled.Onshore wind - wind blowing toward the land.Outboard - 1. - outside the rail of a boat. 2. - a

portable engine.Outhaul - the controlling line attached to the clew of a

mainsail used to tension the foot of the sail.Overpowered - a boat that is heeling too far because it

has too much sail up for the amount of wind.Overtaking - a boat that is catching up to another boat

and about to pass it.

PPainter - the line attached to the bow of a dinghy.Pay out - to ease a line.PFD - abbreviation for Personal Flotation Device; a

lifejacket.Pinching - sailing too close to the wind.Pintle - small metal extensions on a rudder that slides

into a gudgeon on the transom. The gudgeon/pintlefitting allows the rudder to swing back and forth.

Point - to steer close to the wind.Points of sail - boat directions in relation to wind

direction, i.e. close-hauled, beam reaching, broadreaching and running.

Port - 1. - the left side of a boat when facing forward.2. - a harbour. 3. - a window in a cabin on a boat.

Port tack - sailing on any point of sail with the windcoming over the port side of the boat.

Prevailing wind - typical or consistent windconditions.

Puff - an increase in wind speed for a short duration.Pulpit - a stainless steel guardrail at the bow of some

boats. Pushpit - a stainless steel guardrail at the stern of some

boats.Push-pull principle - the explanation of how sails

generate power.

QQuarter - the sides of the boat near the stern.


86 APPENDIX

RRail - the outer edges of the deck.Rake - the angle of the mast.Range - the alignment of two objects that indicate the

middle of a channel.Reach - one of several points of sail across the wind.“Ready about” - the command given to the crew to

prepare to tack.“Ready to gybe” - the command given to the crew to

prepare to gybe.Reef - to reduce the size of a sail.Reeve - to pass a line through a cringle or block.Rhumb line - a straight course between two points.Rig - 1. - the design of a boat’s mast(s), standing

rigging, and sail plan. 2. - to prepare a boat to gosailing.

Rigging - the wires and lines used to support andcontrol sails.

Right-of-way - the right of the stand-on vessel to holdits course.

Roach - the sail area aft of a straight line running fromthe head to the clew of a sail.

Rode - line and chain attached from the boat to theanchor.

Roller furling - a mechanical system to roll up aheadsail (jib) around the headstay.

Rudder - the underwater fin that is controlled by thetiller to deflect water and steer the boat.

Run - (point of sail) sailing with the wind comingdirectly behind the boat.

Running rigging - lines and hardware used to controlthe sails.

SSail cover - the protective cover used to preserve sails

when they are not in use.Sail ties - pieces of line or webbing used to tie the

mainsail to the boom when reefing or storing the sail.Schooner - a two-masted boat whose foremast is

usually shorter than its mainmast.Scope - the ratio of the amount of anchor rode

deployed to the distance from the bow to the bottom. Scull - to propel a boat by swinging the rudder back

and forth.Scupper - cockpit or deck drain.Sea breeze - a wind that blows over the sea and onto

the land.Seacock - a valve which opens and closes a hole

through the hull for saltwater needed on board ordischarge.

Secure - make safe or cleat.Set - 1. - the direction of a current. 2. - to trim the sails.

Shackle - a metal fitting at the end of a line used toattach the line to a sail or another fitting.

Shake out - to remove a reef and restore the full sail.Sheave - the rotating wheel inside a block or fitting.Sheet - 1. - (noun) the line which is used to control the

sail by easing it out or trimming it in. 2. - (verb) totrim a sail.

Shoal - shallow water that may be dangerous.Shroud - standing rigging at the side of the mast.Singlehanded - sailing alone.Skeg - a vertical fin in front of the rudder.Skipper - the person in charge of the boat.Sloop - a single-masted sailboat with mainsail and

headsail.Snub - to hold a line under tension by wrapping it on a

winch or cleat.Sole - the floor in a cockpit or cabin.Spar - a pole used to attach a sail on a boat, for

example, the mast, the boom, a gaff.Spinnaker - a large billowing headsail used when

sailing downwind.Splice - the joining of two lines together by

interweaving their strands.Spreader - a support strut extending athwartships

from the mast used to support the mast and guidethe shrouds from the top of the mast to thechainplates.

Spring line - a mooring warp running forward or aftfrom the boat to the marina to keep the boat frommoving forward or aft.

Squall - a short intense storm with little warning.Stability - a boat’s ability to resist heeling.Stanchions - stainless steel supports at the edge of the

deck which hold the lifelines.Standing rigging - the permanent rigging (usually

wire) of a boat, including the forestay, backstay andshrouds.

Stand-on vessel - the vessel or boat with the right-of-way.

Starboard - when looking from the stern toward thebow, the right side of the boat.

Starboard tack - sailing on any point of sail with thewind coming over the starboard side of the boat.

Stay - a wire support for a mast, part of the standingrigging.

Staysail (STAY-sil) - on a cutter, a second small “innerjib,” attached between the bow and the mast.

Stem - the forward tip of the bow.Step - the area in which the base of the mast fits.Stern - the aft part of the boat.Stow - to store properly.Swamped - filled with water.


APPENDIX 87

TTack - 1. - a course on which the wind comes over one

side of the boat, i.e., port tack, starboard tack. 2. - tochange direction by turning the bow through thewind. 3. - the lower forward corner of a sail.

Tackle - a sequence of blocks and line that provides amechanical advantage.

Tail - to hold and pull a line from behind a winch.Telltales - 1. - pieces of yarn or sailcloth material

attached to sails which indicate when the sail isproperly trimmed. 2. - wind direction indicatorsattached to standing rigging.

Tide - the rise and fall of water level due to thegravitational pull of the sun and moon.

Tiller - a long handle, extending into the cockpit, whichdirectly controls the rudder.

Tiller extension - a handle attached to the tiller whichallows the helmsman to sit further out to the side.

Toe rail - a short aluminium or wooden rail around theouter edges of the deck.

Topping lift - a line used to hold the boom up whenthe mainsail is lowered or stowed.

Topsides - the sides of the boat between the waterlineand the deck.

Transom - the vertical surface of the stern.Traveller - a track or bridle that controls sideways

(athwartships) movement of the mainsail.Trim - 1. - to pull in on a sheet. 2. - how a sail is set

relative to the wind.Trimaran - a three-hulled sailing vessel.True wind - the actual speed and direction of the wind

when you or your boat are standing still.Tune - to adjust a boat’s standing rigging.Turnbuckle - a mechanical fitting attached to the

lower ends of stays, allowing for the standing riggingto be adjusted.

UUnderway - to be under the power of sail or engine.Unrig - to stow sails and rigging when the boat is not in

use.Upwind - toward the direction of the wind.

VVang - see boom vang.Vessel - any sailboat, powerboat or ship.

WWake - waves caused by a boat moving through the

water.Warp - any line used to secure or move a boat.Waterline - the horizontal line on the hull of a boat

where the water surface should be.Weather helm - the boat’s tendency to head up toward

the wind, which occurs when a sailboat isoverpowered.

Weather side - see windward side.Wet-weather gear - water-resistant clothing.Whip - to bind together the strands at the end of a line. Winch - a deck-mounted drum with a handle offering

mechanical advantage used to trim sheets. Winchesmay also be mounted on the mast to assist in raisingsails.

Windward - toward the wind.Windward side - the side of a boat or a sail closest to

the wind.Working sails - the mainsail and standard jib.Working sheet - the leeward jib sheet that is being

used to trim the jib.

YYawl - a two-masted boat with its mizzen (after) mast

shorter than its mainmast and located aft of therudder post.


Notes


Notes


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