Introduction to Apparel Industry

Introduction to Apparel Industry

Introduction to Indian Export Apparel Industry and Departmental Structure of the Industry

Introduction to Apparel Industry • Apparel is one of the basic necessities of human civilization along with food, water

and shelter.

• At present, it is amongst the fastest growing industry segment and is also the second largest foreign exchange earner for the country.

• The apparel industry accounts for 26% of all Indian exports. The Indian government has targeted the apparel and textiles industry segments to reach $50

billion by the year 2015.

(2)Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

Performance of Indian Apparel Industry

• As the world’s second largest producer of textile and garments, India’s garment exports totaled US$ 10.17 billion during the year 2008-09, giving it an enviable market share of 2.99%.

• The Americas, EU, much of Asia and Middle East are India’s clients.• The industry proudly supports 7 million people as part of its workforce, and aims

to double this figure by 2011-12; even today it is the second largest provider of employment in the country.

• For every INR 100,000 invested in the industry, an average of 7 additional jobs created.

• The Apparel Sector alone contributes to 8% of India’s total exports with exports recording a 1% growth over last year.

• By the year 2011-12, India expects to record a 15% growth in quantity and 20% growth in values

• In RMG exports, India, today, ranks 6th in the world, with a 2.6% world market share and robust 11% growth

Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control 3

Some Interesting Facts

• The largest producer of JUTE• The 2nd Largest producer of Cotton yarn • The 2nd largest producer of cellulosic fibre / yarn• The 2nd largest producer of Silk • The 3rd largest producer of raw cotton • The 4th largest producer of synthetic fibre/yarn.


Quotas, Tariffs and the End of the Multi-Fibre Arrangement

• On 1 January, 2005, the quota restraints of the Multi-Fibre Arrangement (MFA) expired, finally bringing to an end four decades of restrictions on trade in textiles and garments among World Trade Organization (WTO) members.

• Trade in these products is now governed by normal WTO rules.


Apparel Industry Departments


Process Sequence of Apparel Manufacturing




MERCHANDISING

• Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and presented to the buyer.

• It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from start to finish.

• Marketing and merchandising department - A team of merchandisers and marketers work together under a profit controls head.

• Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams are made according to the buyers being handled.


A Merchandisers key responsibility

• Product Development• Market and product Analysis• Selling the concept• Booking orders• Confirming Deliveries• Designing and Sampling• Costing• Raw Material• Flow Monitoring• Production Follow Ups• Payments Follows




Sampling Department • In any export house, the sampling department is one of the most

important departments and it plays a vital in the uplifting of a unit.• Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the

merchandising and production department. • Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when

produced in bulk and to check whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyer’s specification.

• Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process by which a small number of garments are made so as to match the buyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as to start off the production.

• It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled. This department makes samples on the basis of specifications and requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack


Types of Samples in Sampling Dept.

• Proto Sample: • Fit Sample:• Pilot Run Sample: • Pre Production Sample: • Pre Size set• Size Set• Shipment Sample• Sales Sample




FABRIC SOURCING

• Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its merchandise i.e fabric will be obtained.

• It works in co-ordination with the merchandising department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time and cost.

• A fabric sourcer must have a knowledge about all varieties of fabric in order to execute their function effectively.




PURCHASING DEPARTMENT


• The purchasing department is similar to the sourcing department but the main difference is that the sourcing department works for sourcing the fabrics alone while the purchasing department works for sourcing the accessories and trims. However, the working procedure is the same



FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT

• The main objectives of this department are:– Analysis of defects in the fabric by various methods.– Selection of fabric according to AQL 1.5.

• Inspection is done on the following grounds:– 100% shade segregation is done.– 100% width segregation is done.– 15% fabric inspection is done for defects.– 10 – 15% shrinkage test for light weight fabrics and mostly

100% for heavy weight fabrics. – The fabric is checked in full width form only.– The quantity is checked, whether the mentioned length of the

roll is correct or not.




ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT

• The stores receives the raw materials in-house and after this they will have to do the sampling process and then they have to make a list of the tests that are supposed to be carried out for that particular accessories and then they send this to the laboratory.

• The lists of accessories and tests that are generally tested are as follows, Button breaking test Colored laces and tapes are tested for color fastness Color fastness test for elastics Lining fabrics for their dimensional stability




PLANNING DEPARTMENT

• Planning department has a vital role to play – in the approval of the order – helps the merchants to determine the costing of a particular style – tell the merchants if the company is capable of producing the

particular style in the given span of time – helps them to know the capacity of the production floor.




LABORATORY DEPARTMENT

• The laboratory in the factory is equipped with all the necessary devices and instruments that are required for the testing of both the fabric and the accessory items.

• But, there are several tests which the buyer prescribes for which the machineries are not available in the factory for such tests the factory does not have the right machineries so they send such fabrics or accessories, which requires some other tests to the external laboratories which are authorized ones with the buyers and the merchant’s approval.




MACHINE MAINTENANCE

• Apart from having quality system and the best practices,’ machine maintenance’ is also a very important are to get ‘quality’ products.

• Unacceptable quality of products often results ill-maintained machines.

• Breakdown and preventive maintenance is primarily aimed toward reduced downtime and increased life respectively.

• Proper machine maintenance is also necessary to avoid casualties at the floor.


The function of PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

• Care of the fittings• Adjusting settings• Oil changing• Graph maintenance• Outward/inward reports• Needle weekly reports.• Machine configuration chart• History card• Needle log cards.




CAD ROOM

• Most of the apparel industries has its own CAD department for varied style garments are made with help of some specialized software package.

• CAD department is responsible for the following functions:– Determining cutting average for costing– Making the most efficient cutting marker– Development and alteration of patterns– Development of size set pattern by grading– Embroidery graphics making– Digitizing the pattern


MARKER


BASIC WORK FLOW of CAD ROOM




CUTTING ROOM

• Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given amount of styles, from the spreads.

• It comes in form of a package file that carries the following details:– Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption

only), and other trims averages.– Measurement sheet– Design worksheet of the garment– Purchase order– Fabric requisition sheet– CAD mini marker– Marker planning- length of lay etc., size ratio and colors in which the

patterns are to be cut.




Production Department • The production floor does production in two types,

– Pilot Production – Bulk Production

• The production floor will receive the details like,– the style or the garment,– number of operators required, – the batch for which the style has to be installed,– any extra kinds of machines that are to be used for the particular style,– target for each day– Breakup of the production quantity.• The production managers help the planning department during planning or

allocating a particular line for the style by telling them the capacity of the line and also telling them about the skills of the operators.




IED DEPARTMENT

• The IED department has to work with many other departments as this department gives the entire idea – of the garment construction – and the thread and trims consumption criteria, – operators skill level categorization – and other related aspects, hence they play a vital role in determining the cost of producing a single piece of the

garment and they also calculate the cost of the factory for that particular style of garment

• The IED department helps the planning department to know the time required for the production of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value




EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT

• The embroidery section is a department which comes into picture only when the particular style demands.

• The embroidery section receives the garments from the sewing floor or from the cutting department and then they start their embroidery process.




WASHING DEPARTMENT

• Once the garment has been finished with all the operations then they are sent to the washing department for the washing or finishing that has to be done for that particular style according to the buyers specifications and hence it plays a vital role in the final feel and the texture of the garment which has to match the specifications of the buyer 100%.

• There are different types of washing procedures involved and they are classified as follows,– Normal wash/ water wash / dip and dry, Softener wash, Desize

wash, Enzyme wash, Stone enzyme wash, Rubber ball wash, Denim wash, Bleach wash, Tinting/ T- staining




QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

• Quality is the major criteria for any product and the same rule applied even to garment industries also.

• In order to maintain quality the quality assurance departments has split up their job into different stages of manufacturing and there are classified into four major groups which are as follows.– Pre-production audit:– Cutting audit:– Sewing audit:– End – line audit:




FINISHING DEPARTMENT

• The finishing department is the department which comes after all the departments and it plays an equally important role in the final appearance of the garment.

• This department includes majorly of the following steps,– Trimming– Inspection– Semi – pressing– Pressing– Tagging section– Packing

• Solid Packing• Ratio Packing• Mixed Packing


Introduction to Apparel Industry

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