INTRODUCTION - Jagged Globe · Alpamayo and nearby Quitaraju (6,040m). This section can sometimes be the most technical and difficult part of the route. After gaining the col, there

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Altitude 5,947m (19,511ft) / 23 Days / Grade 4C

Alpamayo is a steep, perfectly formed ice pyramid situated in the heart of Peru's Cordillera Blanca. Its impressive shape and spectacularly fluted ice face ensure that it remains a coveted summit for aspiring alpine climbers. This expedition climbs the south-west face by the French Direct route, on mostly 45° snow and ice. Team members must therefore be comfortable climbing Alpine AD or Scottish III/IV. After arriving in Huaraz, at the foot of the Cordillera Blanca, you travel to the Ishinca Valley to acclimatise on some superb peaks, such as Urus Este (5,420m) and Ishinca (5,530m). The traverse of Ishinca is a great outing at Alpine AD-. You then trek into Alpamayo base camp along the famous Santa Cruz Valley and have five days to climb the mountain from a high camp on the col between Alpamayo and Quitaraju. This col is reached via 1,000m of moraine above base camp and sections of Grade II Scottish Ice. Since the Ferrari Route, which used to be the ‘voie normale’ became threatened by seracs, the French Direct further to the right, has become the most popular line. The route leads directly to the summit in 10 rope lengths from the bergshrund.

INTRODUCTION

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

+44 (0) 114 276 3322

Alternatively, please email us via our website: www.jagged-globe.co.uk

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After flying to Lima in Peru, you are driven to Huaraz, the climbing centre of the Cordillera Blanca. In order to prepare ourselves well for Alpamayo, you first visit the wonderful valley of Ishinca, which is perfect for acclimatisation as it has a selection of steady 5,000m peaks to choose from. You will climb at least one peak up to around c5,500m in Ishinca, before returning to Huaraz. Then you drive to Cashapampa and walk part of the famous Santa Cruz trek to approach Alpamayo base camp. On Alpamayo, an advantageous climbing ratio is used to ensure that everyone has the best possible chance to climb the peak. The entire team will climb together from base camp to the higher moraine camp, before moving up to 'Col camp' the following day. This is a spectacular high camp at an altitude of around 5,300m. Over the next two days, team members will attempt the summit climb with the guides, before everyone descends back to base camp. After the trek out, you have a night in Huaraz to relax and celebrate the climb, before returning to Lima and flying back home.

You can extend your Alpamayo expedition by a week and climb the popular 6,000m peak, Chopicalqui (6,345m) to complete a full month in the Cordillera Blanca – see page 7 for more details.

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Day 1 Fly to Lima

You will arrive in Lima in the late evening and will be taken to our hotel in the city centre. Team members joining in Lima can meet the rest of the team at the hotel and make arrangements for the drive to Huaraz the following morning.

Day 2 Drive to Huaraz (3,050m) The drive to Huaraz is one of many contrasts. As you leave the relative wealth of Lima, you are struck by the numerous shantytowns that surround the sprawling capital. These impoverished homes finally dwindle as the city fades and gives way to desert. Despite being next to the Pacific coast, the drive north takes you through land deprived of water and vegetation. The character of the countryside changes gradually as the bus gains altitude and swings slowly East towards Huaraz, the capital and heart of "Andinismo". Although never flush with greenery, plants become more apparent as altitude is gained and the Andes draw closer. Villages become more frequent as the rivers and irrigation make farming possible.

From sea level desert to Huaraz at over 3,000m, a bustling town with an economy largely based on agriculture and mountaineering, in 8 hours - a journey that is long remembered. To welcome you to the capital of climbing in the Cordillera Blanca, you will be treated to dinner and we can discuss our climbing plans.

Day 3 Rest day in Huaraz (3,050m) Having come from sea level to 3,050m, it is important for you to have a rest day today. The emphasis is on balanced acclimatisation and so you may wish to relax in the morning, visit the market in the afternoon and climb a small hill behind the town in the evening, in order to get extraordinary pictures of the Cordillera Blanca as the sun goes down.

Day 4 Walk from Huaraz to Laguna Chirup (4,400m) You will take a further day to acclimatise before setting out for Ishinca. Today's walk takes you high to a beautiful lake and includes 6 hours walking for the round. Overnight in Huaraz.

Day 5 Drive to Collon, trek to Ishinca (4,270m) You are collected from the hotel and driven to the village of Collon just a little north of Huaraz where your walk to Ishinca starts. After following the main road north for some 14Km, a track leads off left near the village of Paltay. The drive up the track to Collon takes about half an hour. From Collon, you begin your walk with the help of burros (donkeys) to carry the team’s main climbing and camping equipment. The path passes through a lovely quenual forest overlooked by huge rock cliffs. You’ll eventually arrive at a moraine cirque, which surrounds the valley base camp. Urus (5,420m), Toclaraju (6,032m), Palcaraju (6,110m), Ishinca (5,530m) and Ranrapalca (6,162m) stand aloft the rim of the cirque. Overnight camp.

Day 6 Acclimatisation in Ishinca (4,270m)

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Today is used for acclimatisation and to organise equipment for the first climb. It is necessary for the guides to check through personal equipment and also rehearse some techniques that are needed during the expedition. In the afternoon, the group goes for a short, steady ridge walk near the camp. This allows you a further degree of acclimatisation, but following the maxim "climb high, sleep low", you’ll return to the base camp for the night.

Day 7 Move to Moraine Camp (4,800m)

The team will place itself in a better position for success on the mountain and more thorough acclimatisation, by moving up to a higher camp today. The main glacier on the mountain is reached after about 4 hours following steep but well-marked (cairns) dirt tracks. You camp here ready for an early start for the summit.

Day 8 Ascent of Ishinca (5,530m) If an early start is made, you can climb the mountain and return to the valley by mid-afternoon. The start of the route on the glacier is marked by a collection of cairns from where you climb towards the SW ridge. The ridge is then followed (40 to 45°) to the summit. The team then descends by the same route all the way down to the valley base camp.

Day 9 Ascent of Urus Este (5,420m)

Today, depending on the wishes of the group, you may either make an ascent of Urus Este or have a rest day. From base camp, you climb directly up the slope below the Urus glacier to gain easy snow slopes. You then follow the SSE ridge, without difficulty, until you climb two straightforward rock steps just below the summit. The climb from base camp takes between 5 and 6 hours depending on conditions. The evening is spent resting at base camp.

Day 10 Return to Huaraz, overnight in hotel

The donkey men arrive in base camp early in the morning, so you must be packed up and ready to go for 9 a.m. The walk out takes approximately 1½ hours. You are met at the road head by our transport and are taken back to Huaraz for mid-afternoon. Overnight hotel.

Day 11 Drive to Cashapampa and the Trek to Llamacorral (4,200m)

You’ll leave Huaraz at 0630 after an early breakfast and drive to Cashapampa at the start of the Santa Cruz trek. The trek through the first part of the valley can be very hot so it is important to walk unhurriedly and to carry plenty of water. You pass through the entrance gate at the start of the valley and then follow the river through fantastic scenery to camp next to the river. The camp at Llamacorral is about 4 hours walk.

Day 12 Llamacorral to Alpamayo Base Camp (4,300m) Today you trek further up the trail then swing up the left hand side of the valley to reach base camp with stunning views of Santa Cruz and Artesonraju on the way. You can expect to reach Alpamayo base camp (4,300m) by mid-afternoon.

Day 13 Rest day at Alpamayo base camp (4,300m) This is a day to prepare ourselves for the climb. In the morning,

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we check our gear and decide what to take up onto the mountain. You are also likely to meet other teams who have climbed the mountain and can find out the latest conditions. The afternoon is spent resting and eating.

Day 14 Climb to Moraine camp (4,850m)

From base camp, the route takes a moraine ridge and crosses rock slabs across the edge of the glacier to reach an area of tent platforms (3 hours). This camping area is very limited and the team may opt to climb all the way to Col camp in one day (total time, 6 hours).

Day 15 Climb to Col camp (5,300m) The route above moraine camp continues over ice and moraine before a 300-metre snow couloir leads to the col between Alpamayo and nearby Quitaraju (6,040m). This section can sometimes be the most technical and difficult part of the route. After gaining the col, there is a short descent to reach high camp in a fantastic position at the foot of the SW face.

Day 16 Alpamayo summit day (5,947m) The team should be well acclimatised by now, having already been to around 5,500m in the Ishinca valley. Those members of the group who are feeling fresh and ready to go can make the summit climb today. For those who would prefer to rest a day at the Col camp, they may kick back, relax and take in the awesome mountain scenery. The route from the col crosses the snow bowl and climbs up to the bergschrund below the SW face. This should take approximately two hours. After crossing the bergschrund, you are on the main face and the French Directi route; this is what you've come for! There are nine of ten pitches of steep ice, mostly 50°, leading rightwards through runnels and flutings, past abseil anchors to the summit ridge. The final couple of pitches steepen up to a juicy 70° and overall, the climbing is around Alpine AD/AD+ or WI3. It should take approximately 7 hours to reach the summit. Descent is by abseil and you will then return to the camp on the col.

Day 17 Second summit day

The second group climbs to the summit today, with the first group resting at Col Camp.

Day 18 Spare day

This is a spare day in case of bad weather.

Day 19 Descend to base camp You may have descended the day before, if the ascents are made at the earliest opportunities. Otherwise, you will descend today to base camp (5 hours), ready for the walk and return drive to Huaraz tomorrow.

Day 20 Return trek and drive to Huaraz You trek out to Cashapampa and then return to Huaraz. Time to relax after the climbing, to eat, to drink and, hopefully, to celebrate!

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Day 21 Huaraz to Lima by road

You spend the last night of the expedition in Lima when you will have the evening free for last minute souvenir hunting.

Day 22 Depart Lima You may just get a farewell view of our mountains as you cross the Andes for the last time and head home.

Day 23 Arrive London

PLEASE NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The expedition Leader and our local agent will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset!

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» Economy class return airfares from the UK (unless joining in-country.) » UK Air Passenger Duty (excluded if joining land-only and you make your own

international flight arrangements). » 2 nights’ hotel accommodation in Lima, on a bed and breakfast basis. » 5 nights’ hotel accommodation in Huaraz, on a bed and breakfast basis. » 15 nights’ accommodation in tents on a full-board basis. » 2 group road transfers between Airport and hotel, connecting with flights

(excluded if joining land-only). » All road transport by private vehicles as described in the itinerary. » All porterage costs to base camps. » All costs for leaders, guides and local helpers. » Jagged Globe kitbag or lightweight fleece.

» Visa fees. » Overseas airports taxes not paid in advance through the international airline

ticket. » Extraneous hotel bills (e.g. bar and laundry). » Travel Insurance. » Lunch and evening meals in Lima and Huaraz. » Additional hotel nights in Huaraz if the programme is changed. » Optional sightseeing trips. » Tips.

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You can spend an entire month in Peru by staying on for an ascent of the popular 6,000m peak, Chopicalqui (6,345m). Chopicalqui’s south west ridge is climbed on snow, with some significant crevasses and short ice cliffs to overcome. The team will use two camps, the highest being on a col at 5,350m. Team members need to carry their own personal gear on the mountain. Please note you will only need one ice axe for this extension.

Please see our website for the price based on a 1:1 guiding ratio. This includes five further nights camping.

Day 21 Drive to the Llanaganuco Valley, trek to Chopicalqui base camp (4,000m) Today, you'll be driven north to the Llanaganuco Valley, where you’ll start the trek to Chopicalqui Base Camp, which is 30 minutes from the road head.

Day 22 Trek to Chopicalqui Moraine Camp (4,900m) In the morning you will be met by our transport and driven a very short way to the roadhead where the trek in to Chopicalqui begins. After a short while, you trek through base camp, but as the team are now acclimatised, you’ll continue along the valley towards Moraine camp. The route to camp weaves along a moraine ridge to finally climb steeply up to a plateau. This ‘Eagle’s Nest’ is located just below the glacier, with tents pitched on platforms amongst rock slabs and some steep rock walls.

Day 23 Move to High Camp (5,350m) Setting off early, the route to high camp crosses jumbled blocks, before you can get onto the glacier. Roping up is necessary as crevasses are ever-present. The climbing is on easy-angled snow slopes, weaving around crevasses and short ice cliffs against a

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backdrop of impressive rock scenery. High camp is located in a flat area below the south west ridge proper.

Day 24 Summit day, Chopicalqui (6,345m) From high camp you will follow snow slopes up onto the initially, broad and undulating south west ridge. The first crux of the route is often a steep, 70° snow slope approximately 100m from the summit. Depending on the snow conditions, overcoming this can be extremely hard work. As you get closer to the summit the ridge becomes narrower. The final section just below the summit typically has a large ice wall, which can be as steep as 85°. The views from the summit of Huascaran and the surrounding peaks of the Cordillera Blanca will be cherished for a long time! The descent involves downclimbing and some short abseils, to return to Moraine camp.

Day 25 Spare day

Day 26 Descend to base camp and return to Huaraz Having descended to Moraine camp, you will return to the roadhead and drive back to Huaraz. Overnight hotel.

Day 27 Huaraz to Lima by road You spend the last night of the expedition in Lima when you will have the evening free for last minute souvenir hunting.

Day 28 Depart Lima You may just get a farewell view of our mountains as you cross the Andes for the last time and head home.

Day 29 Arrive London

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The maximum team size is 10, plus Jagged Globe leader, local guides and porters. Jagged Globe leaders are selected for their excellent personal track record of climbing at high altitudes, and their ability to successfully manage a team with differing mountaineering backgrounds. We want you to have a successful and enjoyable experience throughout. You can read more about our leaders on our website. Leaders are supported by our local English-speaking IFMGA Peruvian guides. A 1:2 climbing ratio is provided on Alpamayo.

Alpamayo is graded 4C. You can read more about our Expedition Grades on our website.

This is an alpine-style ascent (no fixed ropes); climbers need to be comfortable seconding steep ice (up to 60°) with two axes, as well as being able to abseil confidently. Previous experience of climbing at altitude is preferable, but not essential. You also need to be fit as you have to carry your own personal equipment and share of food from Alpamayo base camp up to Col camp.

The local guides carry group equipment (e.g. tents, stoves, climbing rope) on the mountain and on summit day, you only carry what you need for that day

To join the expedition and have a good chance of success, you must have:

» Climbed Scottish Grade III climbs or European WI3. » Climbed Alpine AD or equivalent, along with experience of scrambling on

exposed rocky terrain. » A high level of fitness, having prepared for the expedition with regular mountain

walking throughout the months preceding the trip, including Grade I scrambles. » Experience of climbing above 5,000m is preferable, but not necessarily a

requirement for those with a solid background in the European Alps on routes of AD.

Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses would provide good skills training for this expedition. You can find out more about these on our website.

Having a solid base of fitness prior to departing on the expedition will give you the best chance of reaching the summit and enjoying it along the way. There are many different ways to train the body and it is important to choose the correct method.

Climbing a mountain such as Alpamayo requires that you to have a high level of endurance, as well as the upper body and core strength to carry a pack on steep ground. Training for endurance means developing the aerobic energy system in your body. Essentially your objective is to train the energy production systems to meet the demands of the activity for as long as required. For Alpamayo this means consecutive tough days whilst

acclimatising before an even tougher summit day.

In order to better advise you, we asked Steve House and Scott Johnston, authors of the authoritative book, Training for the New Alpinism, for their advice.

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Our Kit List and Trip Information document, which you receive once you have booked, has some general training advice in it from Steve and Scott. Additionally you can purchase an 8 week, 16 week or 24 week training programme via the website, Training Peaks: http://www.trainingpeaks.com

An expedition is a complete adventure and the culmination of training; it is the time to put learning into practice. We might rehearse, and refresh, but the objectives will be the summits we climb, the paths we trek, or the slopes we ski.

As a team member, you will be with likeminded people, all seeking adventure and the camaraderie that people share when facing challenges together. You should be technically competent, so please check you meet the pre-trip requirements before booking.

Whether climbing, trekking or skiing, the expedition will broaden your experience and deepen your knowledge; for example, by reaching new altitudes, by extending yourself technically and physically or by coping with extreme conditions. All the time, you will revel in the simple thrill of being among the mountains and enjoying the cultures encountered en route. Fundamental to this, will be the chance to make new friends along the way.

Jagged Globe expeditions are not 'guided' or 'instructed', as our courses are, but 'professionally-led'. An expedition comprises a team leader (appointed by Jagged Globe), team members (you) and local guides (recruited in-country for their local knowledge). Our expeditions are well resourced and equipped, to ensure the objectives can be met.

The leader will set the tone and the overall parameters for the conduct of the trip. The leader will ensure that every opportunity is taken to fulfil the objectives described in the trip's itinerary, whilst not slavishly being bound by it. The leader will establish a framework of safety, and engender a positive attitude towards ensuring a safe outcome. As a team member, you are responsible for your own participation, especially in those activities that are hazardous by nature. We look to you to be mindful of risks at all times and to use your initiative, common sense and previous experience to face up to them and to reduce them where possible.

Local guides possess the detailed local knowledge we need to achieve our goals. Local guides are not sent to 'Guide', as is now understood when climbing in the Alps with a European-Certified Guide, but to act in the more traditional sense as pathfinders and helpers.

We like our expedition teams to operate within an envelope of mutual support and trust, and the leader will work to build this as the trip progresses. This acknowledges that everyone on the team (the leader, yourself and the local staff) has a contribution to make in helping towards the safe outcome of the venture you are participating in, proportionate to each person's knowledge and experience.

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Jagged Globe offers pre-trip weekends for all expeditions and treks. The pre-trip weekend is a key element of your trek or expedition. You do not have to be booked onto a trip to attend a weekend, so it’s the perfect opportunity to meet us and find out more about Jagged Globe.

The pre-trip weekend provides team members with important information and skills that will enhance your experience of the trip. It is a chance to meet other team members, should they be attending, as well as giving you the opportunity to meet our office team, visit our specialist equipment shop and try on any hire equipment you may need. Normally a number of different teams meet over the weekend.

The Saturday is based in and around Sheffield with presentations on personal equipment, dealing with altitude, expedition safety and staying healthy. In the evening there will be a meal and social gathering to get to know others on your trip. On Sunday we will go outdoors to the nearby Peak District. The activity will be focused on your trip. This will be a walk, scramble or rock climbing sessions using fixed rope and abseiling, if appropriate, at a nearby crag.

The weekends are free to attend and are normally scheduled 6–8 weeks prior to your trip departure date. If you are booked onto a trip confirmed dates will be enclosed with your Booking Confirmation email. If you have yet to book a place on a trip, please email us to enquire about a suitable pre-trip weekend date. To book a place we will need to know at least 10 days beforehand. We look forward to meeting you at the weekend.

Programme

Day Time Activity

Saturday

9.30am Meet at Jagged Globe (tea/coffee on arrival). After a quick introduction, we will cover:

• Illustrated talk about your trip.

• Clothing and Equipment.

• Altitude Illness.

• Health, hygiene and physical preparation.

12.30pm Lunch.

1pm Drive to the Peak District for a short walk and to socialise with other expedition team members.

4pm Return to Jagged Globe in Sheffield.

7pm Dinner.

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Sunday

9am Meet at a designated car park in the Peak District.

This is mainly a social day to talk to your team members and expedition leaders.

4pm Practical session finishes.

Sunday is a practical day that will be focused on your trip. Depending on your expedition or trek, you will need normal UK hill-walking equipment including packed-lunch, boots, waterproofs and warm layers. Some options for the day may include:

Trekking Trips (Everest Base Camp, Huayhuash Circuit etc)

Hathersage to Higgar Tor via Stanage Edge. 500m ascent and descent. 8km walk over heather moorland, stony footpaths and wooded trails.

Non-Technical Peak (Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua etc) Kinder Scout from Edale. 750m of ascent and descent. 10km walk over paths and rough moorland and rocky paths.

Technical Trekking Peak (Mera Peak, Island Peak etc) Either a hill walk taking in steep and rocky paths or a technical rope session including abseiling and using fixed lines.

Technical Expedition (Alpamayo, Ama Dablam, 8000m peaks etc) Rock-climbing,

looking at movement skills, abseiling, using fixed lines and crevasse rescue.

GETTING HERE

Set S3 8EN into your GPS/phone.

Jagged Globe is located close to Sheffield city centre at: 45 Mowbray Street, Sheffield, S3 8EN. We are around 15 -20 mins walk from Sheffield train and coach stations. You can find us next to The Foundry Climbing Centre in the Kelham Island area of the city. There is free car parking within the Foundry Climbing Centre car park and nearby on-street parking.

ACCOMMODATION

Hotels within walking distance of Jagged Globe include:

• Holiday Inn. 4 Star, Victoria Station Rd, Sheffield, S4 7YE.

• Hampton by Hilton. 3 Star, West Bar Green, Sheffield, S1 2DA.

• Easy Hotel. 2 star, 71 High Street, Sheffield, S1 2GD.

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A complete equipment is sent to you on booking. Our equipment hire service includes plastic boots, down jacket and down sleeping bag. If you have any questions, please get in touch.

We can organise this expedition on a 'tailor-made' private basis for groups such as families, clubs or charities. Depending on your mountaineering experience, you might require a Jagged Globe leader or prefer to go 'self-led' with assistance from local guides. The cost of going private can be surprisingly reasonable, particularly self-led options. Please contact us to discuss the itinerary and preferred dates. We will put together a no-obligation quote.

Climb, Trek, Ski Ltd (trading as Jagged Globe) is a fully licenced and bonded tour operator. The air holidays and flights shown on our website are ATOL Protected by the Civil Aviation Authority. Protection extends primarily to customers who book and pay in the United Kingdom. This means if you book your expedition package with Jagged Globe, including international flights from the UK, your payments are covered by our ATOL Licence. Please visit the ATOL website to find out more.

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so securely on our website, over the phone or by sending in a booking form by post. A deposit secures a place on your chosen departure. You will initially receive an automated email acknowledging that your booking has been received. We will then confirm your booking in writing and send you a receipt for the deposit, an invoice for the final balance, ATOL certificate and equipment list. You will be given an account on a secure area of the Jagged Globe website, where you can complete other essential administration relating to the trip.

Book Now: http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/climb/exp/i/alpamayo.html