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Introduction

Feb 05, 2016

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Introduction. Scope of Ice School. An Introduction to Ice Axe and Crampon Techniques Prusik out of a crevasse. Use two ice tools to do a climb out of a crevasse with a top-roped belay. Recommended Reading. Lower Eliot Glacier. Middle Eliot Glacier. Upper Eliot Glacier. Ice Axe. - PowerPoint PPT Presentation
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Page 1: Introduction
Page 2: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 2

Introduction

Page 3: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 3

Scope of Ice School

An Introduction to Ice Axe and Crampon Techniques

Prusik out of a crevasse.

Use two ice tools to do a climb out of a crevasse with a top-roped belay.

Page 4: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 4

Recommended Reading

Page 5: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 5

Lower Eliot Glacier

Page 6: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 6

Middle Eliot Glacier

Page 7: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 7

Upper Eliot Glacier

Page 8: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 8

Ice Axe

Page 9: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 9

Evolution of the Ice Axe

Page 10: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 10

Evolution of the Ice Axe

Page 11: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 11

Evolution of the Ice Axe

Page 12: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 12

Ice Axe Parts

Pick

Adze

Shaft

Spike

Page 13: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 13

Ice Axe Length

Page 14: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 14

How to Carry an Ice Axe

Page 15: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 15

Ice Axe Grasps

a. Self-Arrest

b. Self-Belay

Page 16: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 16

Self-Belay

Page 17: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 17

Crampons

Page 18: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 18

Evolution of Crampons

Page 19: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 19

Purchasing Crampons

Page 20: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 20

Crampon Maintenance

File Points … grinding can cause excessive heat.

No need for excessive sharpness

Correct any splay in points.

Page 21: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 21

When to Use Crampons

Do use crampons on frozen snow and ice.

Don’t use crampons in soft snow.

Crampon effectiveness is diminished when snow accumulates between points.

Page 22: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 22

Crampon Technique

French Technique – Flat-Footing

German Technique – Front-Pointing.

Page 23: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 23

Pied Marche

Page 24: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 24

Pied En Canard

Pied Marche

Pied En Canard

Pied A Plat

Page 25: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 25

Pied A Plat

Page 26: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 26

Pied Assis

Page 27: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 27

Pied Troisieme

Page 28: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 28

Very Low Angle

Page 29: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 29

Low Angle

Page 30: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 30

Moderate to High Angle

Page 31: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 31

High Angle

Page 32: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 32

Very High Angle

Page 33: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 33

Ice Axe Technique

Page 34: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 34

Piolet Canne

Page 35: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 35

Piolet Manche

Page 36: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 36

Piolet Ramasse

Page 37: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 37

Piolet Ancre

Page 38: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 38

Piolet Panne

Page 39: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 39

Piolet Poignard

Page 40: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 40

Piolet Traction

Page 41: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 41

Piolet Rampe

Page 42: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 42

Piolet Rampe

Page 43: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 43

Low Angle

Page 44: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 44

Moderate Angle

Page 45: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 45

High Angle

Page 46: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 46

Low Angle

Page 47: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 47

Moderate Angle

Page 48: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 48

Moderate Angle

Page 49: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 49

High Angle

Page 50: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 50

Very High Angle

Page 51: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 51

Combining Techniques

Page 52: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 52

Combining Techniques

Page 53: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 53

Crevasse Self-Rescue

Page 54: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 54

Field Session Content

Morning – Practice Ice Axe and Crampon Techniques.

Lunch

Afternoon – Prusik out of crevasse; Climb out of crevasse with two ice tools.

Page 55: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 55

Climbing Equipment

sturdy crampon compatible boots

crampons

ice axe

climbing harness

locking carabiner

extra carabiner

prusik slings (5' and 9' of 6mm Perlon)

helmet

belay/rappel device

Page 56: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 56

Sat. Logistics/Schedule

4:45 AM - Meet at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride 1100 Airport Rd.

5:00 AM - Depart the State Motor Pool Park & Ride

8:00 AM - Arrive at Cloud Cap Saddle Campground

8:30 AM - Hike to practice area on Eliot Glacier (2 miles and 1100’)

10:30 AM - Arrive at practice area on the Eliot Glacier.

11:00 AM - Glacier Walk - Practice Crampon & Ice Axe Techniques

12:00 PM - Lunch

12:30 PM - Crevasse Self Rescue

2:00 PM - Use two ice axes to climb out of a crevasse on a top rope.

3:30 PM - Hike to Cloud Cap Saddle Campground

5:00 PM - Arrive at Cloud Cap Saddle Campground

6:00 PM – Group Dinner

Page 57: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 57

Sun. Logistics/Schedule

6:45 AM – Group breakfast

7:30 AM - Hike to practice area on Eliot Glacier

9:30 AM - Arrive at practice area on the Eliot Glacier.

10:00 AM - Glacier Walk - Practice Crampon & Ice Axe Techniques

11:00 AM - Lunch

11:30 AM - Crevasse Self Rescue

1:00 PM - Use two ice axes to climb out of a crevasse on a top rope.

2:30 PM - Hike to Cloud Cap Saddle Campground

4:00 PM - Arrive at Cloud Cap Saddle Campground

4:30 PM - Drive to Salem.

7:30 PM - Arrive at State Motor Pool Park & Ride on Airport Rd.

Page 58: Introduction

prepared by Steve Dougherty 58

The End