Internship report on sb knitting ltd

INTERNSHIP REPORT ON

MANAGEMENT & TECHNICAL PROCEDURE OF

S.B KNITTING LTD

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INTERNSHIP REPORT ON MANAGEMENT & TECHNICAL PROCEDURE OF SB KNITTING LTD

BY

Md. Sazzad Hossain

ID: 121011419, GROUP: E

AN INTERNSHIP SUBMITTED IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THIS DEGREE OF

BACHELOR OF ARTS (HONORS) IN

APPAREL MANUFACTURING MANAGEMENT AND TECHNOLOGY UNDER THE DEPARTMENT OF

APPAREL MANUFACTURING MANAGEMENT AND TECHNOLOGY

WE ACCEPT THIS INTERNSHIP AS CONFORMING TO THE REQUIREMENT STANDARDS:

......................................................................................................................................

NOORUL MUQADDIM

ASSISTANT PROFESSOR AND DISSERTATION SUPERVISOR

DEPARTMENT OF APPAREL MANUFACTURING MANAGEMENT AND TECHNOLOGY

DATED THIS 23rd DAY OF APRIL, 2016, IN AMMT CAMPUS, SMUCT, AND DHAKA, BANGLADESH.

April 23th, 2016

Noorul Muqaddim Assistant Professor

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Department Of Apparel Manufacturing Management and Technology Shanto-Mariam University of Creative Technology Uttara Dhaka-1230.

SUBJECT : SUBMISSION OF INTERNSHIP REPORT

Dear Sir,

Here is the internship report titled “S.B KNITTING Ltd” I tried my best to work sincerely to cover all aspects regarding the subject. Though I faced some limitations in preparing this report, I have thoroughly enjoyed in preparing this report which has contributed considerably to my understanding on the essentials and importance of practical knowledge.

I sincerely hope that you will kind enough to be pleased about my effort.

Sincerely,

Md. Sazzad Hossain I.D- 121011419Group: E

8th Semester

18th Batch

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I would like to thank Almighty Allah who made me able to complete this internship report by

utilizing my skills and knowledge. I am also thankful for giving me spirit of patience, consistency

and courage during my internship.

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I am acknowledging to my respectful teacher & my supervisor Noorul Muqaddim for his kind

co-operation and direction in my internship program. Indeed I am also grateful to Noorul

muqaddim Department Assistant Professor of AMMT. I must also thank our honorable teacher of

the department for their advices and help in drafting this report.

I have received much valuable co-operation and assistance from the SB Knitting. Especially from

A.K.M. Zakir Hossain (HR) and Md. Saiful Islam (HR) Md. Nasiddiki Nur (IE) and Md. Aslam

Uddin (Sample section) whose has cooperate with me and in this process make me expert in

doing various GMT Industries. MD. Hasib (HR) helped me the most to prepare this report by

providing necessary information and kind advice whenever I need. I am very much thankful to

all of them indeed.

Above all, I shall remain ever grateful to many of my friends and other well-wisher that extended

their helping hands to me during my study work.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. INTRODUCTION 1.1 Objectives ………………………………………………… 02 1.2 Methodology ………………………………………………... 02

1.3 Limitation ……………………………………………… 02

1.4 Scope ……………………………………………… 03

2. S.B KNITTING LTD 2.1 About S.B Apparels Ltd ……………………………… 04 2.2 About S.B Fashions Ltd ……………………………… 06 2.3 Mission …………………………………………………… 06 2.4 Vision …………………………………………………… 07 2.5 Commitment to the Environment …………………………... 07 2.6 Company Profile …………………………………………….. 08-12 2.7 Standard Partners with Major Retailers & International Brands ….. 133. MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT. 3.1 Business Development Procedure …………………………………. 14 3.2 Merchandising ……………………………………………………... 14 3.3 First Email to Buyer for Business Development …………………... 15 3.4 Feed-Back from Buyer in Response to First Email ………………… 16 3.5 Sending Quality Samples to New Buyer for Better Understanding of factory … 17 3.6 Approval Procedure of sales samples ………………………………. 19 3.7 Cost Sheet and Consumption Sheet Preparation …………………… 20-21 3.8 Consumption Calculation of Fabrics Accessories and Cartoons …… 22 3.9 Negotiation (Price) Process and Ending of Negotiation ……………... 23 3.10 PI Sheet and Its Items ……………………………………………….. 24 3.11 M L/C Checking Procedures and Important Items Included in M L/C …... 24 3.12 Emails to Supplier for Samples of Yarn, Fabric and Accessories for Buyer Approval . 25 3.13 Buyer Approval Procedure of Fabrics, Color and Accessories ……………. 25 3.14 Procedure of Receiving for Price Quotations for Fabrics Accessories ……. 26 3.15 Items Included in P.O ……………………………………………………. 26 3.16 P/I Collection Procedure from Supplies and Checking of P.I ……………. 274. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT 4.1 Production Planning and Make Layout …………………………………… 27 4.2 Importance of production planning or scheduling ……………………….. 27-28 4.3 Factory production plan …………………………………………………. 29 4.4 Production Planning for Manufacturers …………………………………. 29 4.5 The planning and control system ………………………………………… 29-30 4.6 Monthly Report ………………………………………………………….. 31 4.7 Work-study or Industrial Engineering Procedure ………………………... 31-37 4.8 Fabric division ………………………………………………………….. 38 4.9 Idea about Different Types of Yarn ……………………………………. 38-40 4.10 Quality Control and Lab …………………………………………... 41 4.11 Fabric inspection procedure ………………………………………... 42 4.12 Different type fabric fault ………………………………………… 44

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4.13 Woven fabric …………………………………………………… 45-47 4.14 Flow Chart of Woven Processes ………………………………….. 48-52 4.15 Lab Dips Preparation procedure ………………………………. 52 4.16 Garments washing ……………………………………………….. 53-54 4.17 Printing …………………………………………………………… 54-56 4.18 Embroidery …………………………………………………… 57-59 4.19 Dyeing ……………………………………………………… 59-635. PRODUCTION PROCEDURE 5.1 Sample section ……………………………………………………. 64-66 5.2 Sample Production section ……………………………………….. 66-68 5.3 Pattern section ……………………………………………………. 68 5.4 Pattern Making Flow Chart ………………………………………. 69-70 5.5 CAD Section …………………………………………………….. 70 5.6 Process Flow Chart of CAD Department ………………………… 71-72 5.7 Cutting section …………………………………………………… 73-77 5.8 Sewing section …………………………………………………… 78-84 5.9 Finishing section …………………………………………………. 85-886. COMMERCIAL DEPARTMENT 6.1 Application Procedure to Bank for B/B L/C Opening ………….. 89 6.2 Checking M L/C Related with Terms Condition Mention in M L/C ….. 89-90 6.3 Acceptance Procedure of M L/C ………………………………... 91-92 6.4 Collection of All Relevant Documents from Different Companies …... 92-93 6.5 Preparation of Commercial Invoice ………………………………….. 94 6.6 Document Submission Procedure in Bank …………………………... 94-95 6.7 Application procedure to Procedure for Cash Incentive from Bank ….. 95 6.8 Containers Sizes and Kinds ………………………………………….. 95-96 6.9 Give the Back To Back L/C to Supplier ……………………………... 96 6.10 Booking ship and Confirm Freight ……………………………… 977. HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT 7.1 Recruitment Procedure both Technical & Non-Technical Person …... 97-98 7.2 Training Procedures to the Workers Levels and Managerial Levels …. 99 7.3 Job Evaluation Procedure to Ensure Promotion and Financial Benefit … 100 7.4 Training ………………………………………………………………… 100 7.5 Compensation ………………………………………………………… 101 7.6 Performance appraisal ……………………………………………… 101-1048. MIS DEPARTMENT 8.1 Number of Employee …………………………………………… 105-106 8.2 Work Procedure of MIS …………………………………… 106 8.3 Employee Information, Data Collecting System ………………… 106-107 8.4 Employee Information, Data Store ……………………………… 1089. COMPLIANCE DEPARTMENT 9.1 Social Compliance Procurement ………………………………… 108-109 9.2 Developing Compliance System ………………………………… 109-11010. SUPPLY CHAIN/ PROCUREMENT DEPAETMENT 10.1 Inventory Management in Store with Proper Producer ………... 111 10.2 How supply chain used in garments industry …………………. 111 10.3 Meaning of supply chain ……………………………………... 11211. BGMEA 11.1 BGMEA’s Model Role of Training & Development on Human Resource … 112-113 11.2 Salary of Workers as Approved by Government and BGMEA …… 114

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11.3 Number of Garments is in BGMEA ……………………………… 115 12. BKMEA 12.1 Number of Garments is in BKMEA ……………………………… 116 12.2 Strength of knitwear sector of Bangladesh ……………………….. 11613. EXPORT PROMOTION BURUE 13.1 Function and Activities ……………………………………… 116-119 13.2 What are the Documents Used by Export Promotion Bureau Required by GMTS .. 12014. BTMA 14.1 Function and Activities of BTMA ………………………… 121-122 15. SHIPPING COMPANIS ……………………………… 122-12516. C & F ………………………………………………… 12617. BANK 17.1 B/B L/C Opening Procedure in Bank. …………………….. 127 17.2 Idea about Irrevocable M L/C …………………………….. 128 17.3 Idea about Different L/C …………………………………. 128-130 17.4 Forwarding & Consolidation …………………………….. 130-13318. YARN SUPPLIER …………………………………… 134 19. CHITTAGONG PORT 19.1 Area of Chittagong Port …………………………………... 135 19.2 Capacity of Container Handling Both Import and Export per Day .. 135 19.3 Number of Sailing of Feeder Vessel per day …………… 136 19.4 Different Sizes of Containers …………………………………. 137 19.5 Different Kinds of Containers ………………………………… 13720. INSURANCE COMPANY 20.1 Insurance Policy for Export Garments from Bangladesh to Other Countries .. 138-139 20.2 The Papers Issued by Insurance Company ………………………. 140 20.3 Payment Procedure of Against any Claim ………………………. 14021. CONCLUSIONS …………………………………………. 141

22. BIBLIOGRAPHY ………………………………………… 142

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1. INTRODUCTION

Garments of Bangladesh in the world-market: Over the last twelve years or so the garments

industries have emerged as the largest source of earning foreign currency. About half of the

foreign currency from the ready-made garments is earned from European Union and the U.S.A.

UK, Europe union, Canada, Japan, Australia, New Zealand; Russia etc. also are other garments

importing countries. At present about 20 countries of the world are importers of our garments. Its

market is being expanded in the Middle East, Russia, Japan, Australia and many other countries.

In addition to its economic contribution, the expansion of the RMG industry has caused

noticeable social changes by bringing more than 1.12 million women into labor force. The

economic empowerment of these working girls/women has changed their status in the family.

The attractive opportunity of employment has changed the traditional patriarchal hegemony of

the fathers, brothers and husbands. Most working women/girls can now chose when to get

married or become mothers. The number of early MARRIAGE s is decreasing; so is the birth rate;

and the working girls tend to send their little bothers and sisters to school, as a result, the literacy

rate is increasing. They can participate in family decision-making. Most importantly, the growth

of RMG sector produced a group of entrepreneurs who have created a strong private sector. Of

these entrepreneurs, a sizeable number is female. A woman entrepreneur established one of the

oldest export-oriented garment factories, the Baishakhi Garment in 1977.

Bangladesh has emerged as a key player in RMG (Ready Made Garment) sector since 1978.

Textiles and clothing account for about 85% of total export earnings of Bangladesh. Out of

which, 76% comes from the apparel sector which covers the major products of knit and woven

shirts, blouses, trousers, skirts, shorts, jackets, sweaters, sports wears and many more casual and

fashion items. The sector currently employs approximately 1.5 million workers, mostly females

from underprivileged social classes.

The pivotal factor in the apparel industry is the workforce i.e. the sewing operators, the helpers,

cutting masters, pattern makers, finishers etc.. Bangladesh is endowed with abundant and cheap

labour force that is easily trainable and convertible into semi-skilled and skilled workforce.

Existence of such category is one of the advantages that Bangladesh will be enjoying over a

considerable period in the context of international trade on clothing.

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1.1 Objectives

To know the management Procedure in Garments Industry.

To compare the technical & practical part.

To mark a comment over the whole Internship Report.

To mark out the important part of Internship Reprot.

To focus on the valuable part of Internship Report.

To verified the important of marketing where I am doing internship program.

1.2 Methodology

To collect information what I am seeing in practical in My Internship Program.

To collect information what I did in practical what was done by me for my practical knowledge.

To make a comment over the project we have to understand the whole project.

1.3 LimitationAs this kind of project is completely new for us so I have face some problems.

Lack of scope due to busyness of parson

Lack of instruction book, they are following traditional business.

I may have to suffer for lack of time

Lack of good organized management.

Commanding style is very slow.

I may have to suffer for finding the project related books.

I may find it confusing to compare both the technical and academic part of this project.

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1.4 ScopeAs there is some limitations but we have some scopes for doing the project as well such as:

They are doing some work what is related with business development.

I can collect information form Standard and another garment like Square group Orion group of industry.

Some of our senior brothers can help us over the matter.

I can collect information various books and relevant paper what related with apparel industry.

I can collect information from our very much enriched library etc.

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2. S.B Knitting Ltd.

S.B knitting is supposed to be Bangladesh's largest private sector industrial enterprise. It has

targeted the industries the country needs most for progress and improved living S.B knitting. S.B

is also focused on those industries, which make the most of Bangladesh's competitive advantages

in the international market. Through its ongoing growth, it has created industrial and management

capabilities that will serve the country for generations Standard industrial sector include Civil

Engineers . Non-industrial undertakings are focused on real estate and construction, engineering,

trading and financial services.

2.1 About S.B Apparels Ltd

S.B Apparels Limited (SAL) a member of SB Group started its commercial production in March

2002. S.B Apparels Limited is a 100% export oriented garment industry, located at Baipail

natunpara, Savar, Dhaka. It produces over 2.5 million pcs of high quality men’s dress/casual

shirts and short pant for prominent brands and retails in USA, Canada & Europe.

S.B Apparels Limited is managed by a group of professionals’ aims at producing high quality

garments through an effective quality control system right from sourcing of fabric to end product.

The company employed 1000 employees as of July 01, 2015

CORPORATE Office

Civil Engineers Bhaban

69, Mohakhali C/A, Dhaka-1212, Bangladesh.

www. Sbknitting.com

OPE RATIONAL HEADQUARTER

S.B Knitting Ltd.

401/B Tejgaon Industrial area

FACTORY

Baipail Natunpara,Savar,Dhaka

Bangladesh .

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LISTING STATUS

Private Limited Company

STOCK EXCHANGE LISTING

Not Applicable

AUTHORIZED CAPITAL

100 million (BDT)

PAID UP CAPITAL

2.25 million (BDT)

NUMBER OF SHAREHOLDERS

03

YEAR OF ESTABLISHMENT

1985

COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION

March 2002

PRODUCTION CAPACITY

8,000 pcs (approx.) / Day

TOTAL NO. OF LINES

12

NUMBER OF EMPLOYEES

985

NATURE OF ACTIVITIES

Ready to Manufacturing Garments

Page No 12

2.2 About S.B Fashions Ltd.

S.B Fashions Limited (SBF) a member of SB Group started its commercial production during

July 2007. SBF is a 100% export oriented garment industry, located at Dhaka Export Processing

Zone at Savar, Dhaka.

S.B Fashions Limited produces over 6 million pcs of high quality dress/casual shirts for

prominent brands and retails in USA, Canada & Europe.

S.B Fashions Limited is managed by a group of professionals including expatriates and aims at

producing high quality garments through an effective quality control system right from sourcing

of fabric to end product. The number of employees at the beginning of year 2009 is 2,220.

2.3 Mission

S.B is a full service vendor with strong vertically integrated production facilities as well as

creative & analytical capabilities which clearly set us apart from most other South Asian vendors.

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2.4 Vision

• Gain market leadership in high value added apparel in USA & Europe .

• Use “Innovation” & “Speed” as prime drivers, rather than cotton & cheap labour .

• Dominate these markets in high quality:

• Men's, Women's , Children

• Shirts ( Dress & Casual )

• Blouses ( formal & casual ) , Skirts, Jackets

• Jeans & Casual non - denim bottoms

• Knitted tops & bottoms

2.5 Commitment to the Environment

Our company is very committed to preserve a healthy and pollution-free environment. It has a

very efficient waste collection and disposal system. In order to reduce air pollution by exhaust of

gas from engine-generators, it maintains a costly plant that uses the exhaust gas to generate steam

for chilling unit. Above measures not only help keep the water & air free from pollution but also

help save cost of water treatment & air conditioning. Your company uses only AZO-free dyes

and is dedicated to ensure a healthy and eco-friendly environment.

2.6 Company ProfileCORPORATE HEADQUARTERS:

Civil Engineers Bhaban

69, Mohakhali C/A ,Dhaka-1212 Bangladesh .

www.Sbknitting.com

OPERATIONAL HEADQUARTER:

S.B knitting Ltd.

401/B Tejgaon Industrial area

Page No 14

FACTORY

Baipail Natunpara,Savar,Dhaka

Bangladesh .

DATE OF INCORPORATION: 30 May, 1984

COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION: 1990

BUSINESS LINE:

Manufacturing and Marketing of Yarn, Woven, and Denim Fabrics.

LISTING STATUS: Public Listed Company.

STOCK EXCHANGE LISTING:

Dhaka and Chittagong.

AUTHORIZED CAPITAL IN BDT: 3,000 Million Taka

PAID UP CAPITAL IN BDT: 1,882.50 Million Taka

NUMBER OF SHAREHOLDERS: 37,929

NUMBER OF Woven LOOMS INSTALLED: 293

NUMBER OF Spindles INSTALLED: 119,520

NUMBER OF Denim LOOMS INSTALLED: 56

NUMBER OF Circular knit Machine INSTALLED: 30

PRODUCTION CAPACITY: 28 Million Linear Meters

NUMBER OF EMPLOYEES: 5,181

Page No 15

Products

Yarn Products

• Count - Ranging from 6 – 120

• Fiber - Cotton ( super – combed, combed, carded)

• CVC - 60% cotton, 40% polyester

• TC - 65% polyester-35% cotton; 100% polyester both regular and sewing thread

Lyocell, Tencel, Modal, Rayon, Viscose etc.

Fabric Products

Solid Dyed

• Poplins

• Twills

• Dobbies

• Oxfords

• Seersuckers

• Canvas

• Ribstops in 100% Combed

Cotton

• CVC and CVS/TC

• Stretch

• Satten

Yarn Dyed

• Ginghams

• Stripes

• Fil-a-fils/End-on-ends

• Chambrays

• Seersuckers

• Pinpoint

• Oxfords

• Dobbies

• Plaids in 100% Combed

Cotton

• CVC and CVS/TC

• Stretch

• Satten

Finishing

• Wrinkle Free

• Easy Care

• Peach

• Chintz

• Paper Touch

• Teflon Coated

• Water Repellent

• Water Resistance

• Rubberized

Dobby Designs Yarn Count

Page No 16

• Herringbones

• Bedford Cords/Coteles

• Waffles and various

structures in 100%

Combed Cotton

• CVC and CVS/TC

• Ranging from 7 to 120

Denim Products

• Chambray : In classic indigo colours ranging from 4oz to 5.5oz/Yd2

• Denim (blue) : In classic indigo colours ranging from 4oz to 15oz/ Yd2

• Denim (black) : In sulfur black colour ranging from 4oz to 15oz/ Yd2

• Coloured Denim : In a variety of colours - both in sulfur & reactive dyes(warp dyed)

• Overdyed Denim : In a variety of colours on indigo blue & sulfur black

• Bull Denim : In a variety of reactive colours ranging from 10oz to 13oz/ Yd2 (piece dyed)

• Stretch Denim : In classic indigo colours ranging from 4.5 oz to 13.75 oz/Yd2

Special Yarn Products

Plied Yarn, Fancy Yarn, Slub Yarn (7's to 20's), Stretch both Lycra (10's to 40's) and Spandex and

other Core Spun, Multi count, Multi Twist etc.

Unique Wrinkle-Free product

CORTEK-2000

mbedded filament core, which makes it permanently wrinkle-free. no resins or chemicals are used

making the fabric ecologically friendly as well as highly durable.

The technology provides the soft, natural comfort of cotton and the wrinkle-free convenience and

strength of synthetic fibre Standard is the manufacturer and exclusive licensee in bangladesh of Cortex-

Page No 17

2000, USA.

COTRA DP 3.5 +

This is a 100% cotton fabric, which is chemically, treated in a hi-tech precure process which is safe,

clean and ecologically friendly. The result achieved meets a durable press rating of dp 3.5+ (aatcc -

124).

Previously, this result could only be achieved by ammonia processing which is rapidly becoming

obsolete, as it is hazardous to health and environment.

Standard is the manufacturer and exclusive licensee in bangladesh of Cotra dp 3.5 +, USA.

Production

Standard Ltd. is a fully vertical unit from Yarn Spinning to Apparel Manufacturing, Printing,

Washing and Packaging.

• Yarn Spinning • Fabric Weaving • Processing and Finishing • Apparel Manufacturing • Sewing Thread & Labels Manufacturing

• Printing • Embroidering • Washing • Packaging

Services

Speed to Market Opportunities

• Supply chain model based on a relationship of trust and simple, short procedures

• Marketing model based on affordable, quick change fashion.

• Clear projection or commitment and firm booking of capacity.

• Maximize design, product development capability of manufacturer, in collaborative

design process.

• On-spot placement of order after reviewing of designs.

• Focused product development. Higher adoption rate from collection.

• Vertical facility enabling quick response, which allow us to produce from Yarn to

Garment in fifty days and repeate orders in thirty days, leading to reduced markdowns.

Page No 18

Design Studio - Mission

To provide design and product development support from fiber to garments to leading retailers

and brands using integrated manufacturing resources, powerful CAD tools, technology

collaboration with major suppliers (like CIBA, DuPont etc.) and interface with fashion forward

customers, rapidly develop and bring trendy, innovative differentiated products to our strategic

partners every season. Our Design Studio works to produce entire collections with Inditex

including woman’s and means clothing, woven and knit tops, casual and denim bottoms and jackets.

We have now introduced a catalogue which will highlight our concept of complete new looks, products

and fabric swatches and we will be sending one of these to all our key customers almost every eight

weeks.

Resources employed to fulfill the mission

• 25 highly qualified designers who travel the world visiting fairs, interfacing with the

designers of fashion forward customers and competitive buying from well known fashion

outlets

• 150 people working in sewing room dedicated to design team

• Dedicated yarn dyeing, warping and washing facilities for design team

• Koppermann advanced German networked CAD system

2.7 Standard Partners with Major Retailers & International Brands

Page No 19

GAP American Eagle Outfitters Calvin Klein

DKNY Zara J.C. Penny

Next IZOD Arizona

H & M Geoffory Beene St. Johns Bay

Mother Care Arrow J. Ferrar

Bershka Kenneth Cole Reaction Decree

3 MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT.Page No 20

3.1 Business Development ProcedureNew business development concerns all the activities involved in realizing new business

opportunities, including product or service design, business model design, and marketing. When

splitting business development into two parts, we have: ‘businesses and ‘development’. The first

things that come into mind when looking at business are: economics, finance, managerial

activities, competition, prices, marketing, etc. All of these keywords are related to risk and

entrepreneurship and clearly indicate the primary scope of the term ‘business development’.

Business Development is mostly seen as growing an enterprise, with a number of techniques. The

mentioned techniques differ, but in fact all of them are about traditional marketing. Business

development manager comprises a number of techniques and responsibilities which aim at

attracting new customers and at penetrating existing markets. Techniques used include:

• Assessment of marketing opportunities and target markets

•Intelligence gathering on customers and competitors

•Generating leads for possible sales

•Advising on, drafting and enforcing sales policies and processes

•Follow-up sales activity

•Formal proposal and presentation management and writing

•Pitch and presentation rehearsals

•Business model design

•Account planning and performance monitoring

3.2 MerchandisingMerchandising is a business on marketing activities responsible for ensuring a products

description both quality and quantity. Merchandising means total responsibility of a

Merchandiser.

Merchandiser

A man who collects order from customer sourcing raw materials production on time with quality

and maintains lead time.

Garments merchandising means buying raw materials & accessories, producing garments,

maintaining required quality level and exporting the garments within scheduled time.

Most importance things for a Merchandiser is:

Page No 21

Communication.

Planning

Production Follow Up

The responsibility of a smart Merchandiser in handling order at four stages:

1. Sourcing for future orders/Buyers

2. New Order

3. Confirmed Order

4. Running Order

3.3 First Email to Buyer for Business DevelopmentFor new business development sellers have to communicate with buyer. email is the easiest and

swift way of communication so when seller will contract first time with buyer by email at that

time have to mention some important information about company. Which kind of things should

be include here this are-

i. Information about you and your company.

ii. Products information about your company.

iii. Capacity and productivity.

iv. Which buyer work with you.

v. Attachment a beautiful sample photograph.

vi. Wearing for feedback.

vii. This kind of information should be included in this email. On the other hand this email

will be minimum word and maximum communication.

Page No 22

Sample of first email:

Dear Sir,

I am Mr Rubel Ahmed SR Merchandiser of the Square Group we are the manufacturer &

exporter of readymade garments in Bangladesh.

“Square Group began its journey into the garments sector in 1995as garments in Bangladesh.

Since then the organization being run by highly qualified, experienced and professional

management and stuff along with Sophisticated Machineries, Latest Technology, Skilled

Workmanship, Substantial Marketing and Proper Discipline. We are ready and able to give you

100% quality, best price and service. We believe it is possible to us to enter into the marathon of

global market.

At present our knitting, garments & printing factory is and dyeing factory is Ibrahim woven

which are the sister concern of The Square Group” All the factories are 100% export oriented.

Our previous practice is the best quality of products and on time delivery. We are always

committed to the buyers.

Our Products:

T-shirt, Polo shirt, Tank top, Shorts, Trouser, Jacket (Cotton, Polyester, CVC, France terry,

Waffle, etc.) and many more. We also produce all kinds of Woven & Sweater item.

Please send us your current inquiry for sampling & costing.

Your kind co-operation would be highly appreciated.

Thanks & Best Regards

Ariful Islam

S.B Knitting ltd.

Page No 23

3.4 Feed-Back from Buyer in Response to First Email:

Dear Mr. Azizl Islam,

I am pleased about your company, so I want to make a business with you. So you should send

some original sample include with FOB price.

Best regards,

Mr. Zorje

3.5 Sending Quality Samples to New Buyer for Better Understanding of

Workmanship of Factory

Samples play a vital role to get new order. Without quality sample we can`t develop a new

business, So sample should be better quality before bulk production. For that reason when we

send quality sample to the buyer we have to follow something, those are:

Page No 24

Use combed yarn

Perfectly widening

Properly dyeing

Good pattern making

Sewing perfectly

If we follow this process to make quality sample and send as like this way, I think after that buyer

will be satisfied and get clear idea about workmanship of factory.

3.6 Approval Procedure of sales samples

Sample is made when price is confirmed and orders are on speculation, usually is L size in all

color combinations of expected order. Buyer held a meeting with its customer and records their

response on order quantity per color, size etc. and finally place order to their vendor.

Sales sample basically use catalogue buyer.

Page No 25

Use quality full Accessories

Finishing properly

Use quality full packing elements

Re-check measurement & quality

Send sample with forwarding letter & measurement sheet

Send sales sample to buyer with good packing

Buyer check fabric quality

Fabric GSM

3.7 Cost Sheet and Consumption Sheet PreparationGarment Costing: In order to achieve perfect garment costing, one must know about all the

activities including purchase of fabrics, sewing, packing, transport, overheads, etc

Table 2: The freight charges for the Men's Basic T-shirt. Price of garment estimation is given

Particulars Light colors Medium colors Dark colors

34's combed yarn Rs.135.00 Rs.135.00 Rs.135.00

Fabric cost per garment Rs.38.06 Rs.40.13 Rs.44.27

Cost of Trims Rs.0.85 Rs.0.85 Rs.0.85

CMT Charges Rs.11.00 Rs.11.00 Rs.11.00

Cost of accessories Rs.1.35 Rs.1.35 Rs.1.35

Rejection of garments

(commonly 3%)Rs.1.50 Rs.1.50 Rs.1.50

Cost of Garment Rs.52.76 Rs.54.83 Rs.58.97

Local Transport Rs.1.00 Rs.1.00 Rs.1.00

Profit@15% appro. Rs.7.90 Rs.8.20 Rs.8.90

Commission/ pc Rs.2.00 Rs.2.00 Rs.2.00

Price of Garment Rs.63.66 Rs.66.03 Rs.70.87

Page No 26

Garments design (Print, Embroidery)

Measurement check

Overall quality

Approve sample

Shipping Charges:

For men's basic T-shirt, the delivery terms in the buyer enquiry as 'FOB'. So sea freight charges is

not added. But the local transport with the cost of garment has to be added. Finally, we have to

convert the Indian rupee value to USD or Euro

Consumption Preparation:

Fabric consumption:

The garments manufactured in many sizes to fit for everybody. Generally they are in sizes Small

(S), Medium (M), Large (L), Extra large (XL) and Double Extra Large (XXL). The quantity ratio

or assortment can be any one of the following approximate ratio.

S: M: L: XL: XXL - 1:2:2:2:1

S: M: L: XL: XXL - 1:2:1:2:1

S: M: L: XL: XXL - 1:2:3:2:2

As the price is the same for all these sizes of garments, the author have taken the centre size

large(L) for average calculation. Generally, the quantity of L size will be higher or equal to the

quantity of each of other sizes.

Men's Basic T-shirt

Description: Men's Basic T-shirt-short sleeves- 100% Cotton 140 GSM Single jersey - 1 x 1 ribs

at neck - solid dyed - light, medium and dark colors in equal ratio.

Sizes: S, M, L, XL, XXL Ratio: 1: 2: 2: 2: 1

Export carton: 7 ply -120 GSM virgin corrugated - sea worthy. Cartons are to be strapped with 2

nylon straps.

Measurements in cm: (Finished garment)

Size: L

Chest - 60 cm

Length - 78 cm

Sleeve length - 24 cm

Neck rib width - 3 cm Hem - 3 cm

Patterns are generally made with the seam allowance and cutting allowance. Generally, 12 cm is

added with the total of body length and sleeve length.

That is,

Fabric consumption =(Body length + Sleeve length + allowance) * (Chest + allowance) * 2 *

GSM

                                                                                  10000

Page No 27

= (70 + 24 + 12) * (60 + 3) * 2 * 140

                           10000

= 187 grams

Body & Sleeves : 187 grams

Neck rib : 10 grams (approximately)

Gross weight : 197 grams Therefore, the fabric consumption per garment is 197 grams.

Gross weight & net Weight:

The above weight is the gross weight of fabric. It means the weight of the fabric bits cut in

tubular form without taking shapes is called gross weight. This is the consumed fabric for the

particular garment. Hence costing is to be made as per this gross weight. The weight of the cut

pieces after taking the shape according to the pattern is called net weight of fabric.

Fabric cost per kg (in Rs) (all charges approximately)

Cost of fabric per kg is calculated and given in Taka

Particulars Light colors Medium colors Dark colors

34's combed yarn 135.00 135.00 135.00

Knitting charge 8.00 8.00 8.00

Dyeing charge 35.00 45.00 55.00

Compacting charge 6.00 6.00 6.00

Fabric wastage @

5%9.20 9.70 10.70

Fabric cost per kg 193.20 203.70 224.70

Fabric consumption

per garment197 gms 197 gms 197 gms

Fabric cost per

garment38.06 40.13 44.27

Cost of Trims:

The accessories which are attached to the garments are called Trims.

Now the author have taken Men's Basic T-shirts, as example. Let us see what are the trims

required for this style.

Labels: Woven main label (2.5 cm width x 7 cm length): Rs 0.35

Page No 28

Polyester printed wash care label: Single color print: Rs 0.10

Hang tag: Rs 0.40

So the total cost of trims is Rs 0.85 per garment.

Cost of accessories:

Poly bags: Normal - Rs 0.30 per garment

Master Poly bag: Rs 2 per master poly bags to contain 8 garments - Rs 0.25 per garment.

Export carton: Normal: Rs 40 per carton to contain 48 garments - Rs 0.80 per garment.

So the total cost of accessories is Rs 1.35 per garment.

3.8 Consumption Calculation of Fabrics Accessories and Cartoons

Woven Fabric consumption calculation:

Body length = 73cm.

Chest = 60cm.

Sleeve length = 22cm

GSM = 220

2(B.L+S.L) * Chest * GSM

= 2(73+22) * 60 * 220

100 100 1000

= 190 * 60 * 220

100 100 1000

= 1.9 * .60 * .22

= 0.250 kg/pes *12

= 3.0096 kg/DZ + 10% (10% Wastage)

= 3.0096 kg/DZ +0.30

= 3.3096 kg/DZ

Carton consumption:

Length = 60cm

Width = 40cm

Height = 40c

2(L+W+Allounce 5cm) * (W+H+Allounce 2.5cm)

10000

Page No 29

= 2(60+40+5) *(40+402.5)

10000

= 17325

1000

= 1.7325 sqm

Poly:

L=12”

W = 10”

Thickness = .08mm

75000 = Pes on 1 Lbs

L*W*THICKNESS

= 75000 “

12*10*.08

= 75000 “

960

= 78.125 pes on 1 lbs

3.9 Negotiation (Price) Process and Ending of NegotiationArrange a meeting

Show the price to buyer

Buyer asked about high price

Arguments about high price with buyer

Buyer show the new price

Make win win situation

Fixed price

Placed a new order

Ending the negotiation by dinner

Page No 30

3.10 PI Sheet and Its Items:In foreign trade transaction, a reformat invoice is a documents that states a commitment from the

seller to reserve some goods to be sold to a certain person, the buyer. the buyer places an order

and if the seller agrees, it extend a reformat invoice and agrees to all the terms specified in it, the

goods are send and the reformat is replaced by a commercial invoice.

What are the items will include in this sheet are-

Top part:

Name and address of seller

Invoice number and date.

Buyer name and address.

Body/middle part:

Product description.

Unit price.

Total price.

Bottom part:

Shipment date.

Shipment terms FOB or C&F.

Country of origin.

Terms of payment, at sight or 120 days.

Others special terms.

3.11 M L/C Checking Procedures and Important Items Included in M L/CA documentary M L/C is an orderly payment security instrument offering high quality payment

security to a business transaction for both parties the seller and buyer. The seller will receive

payment for his goods if he meets all conditions prescribed by the letter of credit. Without M L/C

opening the order won’t be confirmed. So its carry more value than other documents in export

and import business.

M L/C Check list items and those items must be included in this L/C.

Types of L/C.

Issue date.

Expiry date.

Issuing bank details.Page No 31

Advising bank details.

Seller name and address.

Total amount.

Currency of payment.

Tolerance (2-5% plus or minus)

Port of loading.

Description of goods.

Shipping terms (FOB/ C&F)

List of documents required.

3.12 Email to Supplier for Samples of Yarn, Fabric and Different Types

Accessories for Buyer Approval.

Dear Mr. Zorje ,

I got a order from Spanish buyer. Its order no. # TW0832 and order quantity is 50000 Pcs. So I

need yarn, Sewing thread and accessories within 15 days. Please see the attach file.

Combed yarn.

Sewing thread.

Accessories.

Best regards,

Mr. Azizul Islam

3.13 Buyer Approval Procedure of Fabrics, Color and Accessories

Fabric and accessories approval from the buyer is very important. According to the buyer color

wise you have to outsourcing of the fabric. After collection of the fabric lap dip is done and show

the fabric on the swatch submission card for better understanding of the buyer.

Fabric construction

Fabric GSM

Color shade

Page No 32

Hand feeling

Accessories quality check

Label barcode check

Check finishing Accessories

Give the approve

3.14 Procedure of Receiving for Price Quotations for Fabrics Accessories

Pricing is very important factors for any kind of business. After discussion with the supplier price

is fixed. For fixing the price some points are followed such as-

Low price.

Quality of the goods.

Sampling.

3.15 Items Included in P.OThose items are included in P.O. This are-

Order quantity.

Product description.

Size breakdown.

Supplier bank address.

Buyer details.

Country of origin.

Payment terms.

Carton marks.

Fabric construction.

Care label instruction.

Port of loading.

3.16 P/I Collection Procedure from Supplies and Checking of P.IPage No 33

After getting P.O from garment industry than supplier issue a P.I to merchandiser. This P.I sends

by e-mail or DSL to the merchandiser. As like this way collect P.I from supplier and the checking

procedure of P.I

4. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

4.1 Production Planning and Make Layout

Before starting production Radial International Limited production manager called a meeting and

counseling with supervisor and who are directly involve with production. Production manger and

who are related with production they are making production layout and divide the work what will

best for production. Layout must be making according to product style and requirement of design.

One of the components of a company's business plan is the production plan, which describes how

the company will produce its homes. Goals and strategies need to be set for all aspects of your

production cycle, including estimating, scheduling, customer selections, construction, customer

service and warranty. Review what has worked well in each of these areas and identify areas that

need strengthening. Challenge all of your systems and paper flow. Establish specific goals in each

of the following critical areas:

Plan Design

Estimating

Purchasing

Field Management

Quality Control

4.2 Importance of production planning or scheduling:

Production planning is one of the planning functions that a firm needs to perform to meet the

needs of its customers. It is a medium-range planning activity that follows long-range planning in

P/OM such as process planning and strategic capacity planning. Firms need to have an aggregate

planning or production planning strategy to ensure that there is sufficient capacity to meet the

demand forecast and to determine the best plan to meet this demand.A carefully developed production plan will allow your company to meet the following objectives:

Page No 34

• Minimize cost/maximize profits

• Maximize inventory investment.

• Minimize changes in production rates

• Minimize changes in work-force levels

• Maximize customer service.

• Maximize the utilization of plant and equipment.

No manufacturing industry can be productive without a sound production plan. Effective

planning is fundamental in any business; it is a complex process which ensures that materials,

equipment and human resources are available to complete the work. Production plan is like a

roadmap to reach the destination. It helps to know that where I am going and how long it will

take me to get there

Advantages of an effective plan and scheduling:

Reduces labor

Eliminates wasted time.

Improves process flow.

Reduces inventory cost

Optimizes equipments.

Maximizes capacity

Utilizes human resources.

Improves in-time delivery.

The benefits of production plan or scheduling include:

Process change-over reduction

Inventory reduction, leveling

Reduced scheduling effort

Increased production efficiency

Labor load leveling

Accurate delivery date quotes

Real time information

Page No 35

4.3 Factory production plan:

In facilities and factory planning consideration must be given to a start-to-finish production plan.

Also consider a factory facilities layout in relation to that plan in order to optimize tooling and

machinery, capacity and inventory, raw materials and finished product storage and packaging.

Work to reduce the time and number of physical motions required to set up and move through the

manufacturing process.

Based on the order plan of the factory, the factory manager arranges to chalk out a month-wise

production plan. Some production plan may very comprehensive. They show weekly production,

daily production, inspection & shipment dates so that production & delivery of goods may be

effected just on time. So production plans are very important.

Facility planning must also take into consideration federal and industrial standards for workers,

the production process and end product safety.

1. Learn all can about facilities and factory planning.

2. Enlist the factory planning services of a consultant.

3. Use facilities and factory planning software to make planning easier.

4.4 Production Planning for Manufacturers:

To remain competitive in today's 'rapid change' fashion environment, it is essential for

manufacturers to achieve effective production planning. More styles, smaller orders, increased

product complexity and much shorter lead times are just some of the issues faced by today's

fashion manufacturers as they strive to 'keep up and stay ahead of the competition'. Recognising a

real need for effective planning solutions within the garment and footwear industries, we have

continuously evolved our Fast React solutions over many years to address exactly these issues

4.5 The planning and control system:

Within the area of production and operations management, the issue of designing a proper

planning and control framework for the production and distribution system is strongly

emphasised. A control framework can be considered as an overall and to some extent generic

model, which includes the trade-offs between the leading decisions regarding the production- and

distribution system of the organization.

Page No 36

In general, the production and logistical control system of the organization reflects the way

customer orders are accepted, how production and procurement orders are placed, and the way

production and distribution capacity available is used.

In exploring the planning and control system of the organizations, our focus was not only on the

decisions being made with respect to the production and distribution system but Even more on

the fundamental concept and rationale underlying the planning and control system.

Examples of questions we have been asking ourselves are: how is the company involved trying to

reduce control complexity, what are the key-drivers for implementing advanced information-

oriented planning systems, and what is the underlying rationale behind trade-off decisions to be

made with respect to the allocation of resources

Page No 37

4.6 Monthly Report:Reporting on the quality control and lab test

Reporting on the inspection criteria

Reporting based on the production planning and make layout

Reporting the whole section of cutting including marker making, fabric spreading, fabric

cutting, input to the sewing room.

Reporting on the sewing department

Reporting on the finishing department

Reporting based on the inspection, of course final inspection

Reporting on the cartooning

4.7 Work-study or Industrial Engineering Procedure.Industrial Engineering:

Industrial engineering is a branch of engineering concerned with the development, improvement,

implementation and evaluation of integrated systems of people, money, knowledge, information,

equipment, material and process. Industrial engineering draws upon the principles and methods of

engineering analysis and synthesis as well as mathematical, physical and social sciences together

with the principles and methods of engineering analysis and design to specify, predict and

evaluate the results to be obtained from such systems. In lean manufacturing systems, industrial

engineers work to eliminate wastes of time, money, materials, energy, and other resources.

Objectives of IE:

To sells or business target of the company.

To spread production planning information.

To set target and submit balance report within schedule time.

Major Parts of IE in Garments Industry:

a) Analysis Procedure

b) Operation Procedure

c) Workers Assessment

Page No 38

Analysis Procedure:

1. Basic

2. Semi Critical

3. Critical

4. Super Critical

Basic Analysis:

Operator Training Analysis

Pre-Production Meeting Analysis

Semi Critical Analysis:

SMV Analysis

Pre-Define Motion Time Analysis

Target Setting Analysis

Operator Breaks Down Analysis

Thread Consumption Analysis

Critical Analysis:

Costing Analysis

Feasibility Analysis

Super Critical:

SMV analysis

Time study

Motion study

Bottle neck analysis

Operator Training Analysis: Analysis teams will analysis Operator’s training.

Pre-Production Meeting Analysis: Analysis team will call pre-production meeting before bulk

production and they will analysis pre-production meeting.

SMV Analysis: The sum of standard time of sewing process and helping process express in term

of minute unit is called Standard Minute Value (SMV). Analysis team will analyze SMV of CM

for costing.

Pre-Define Motion Time Analysis: Analysis team will do pre-define motion time analysis.

Page No 39

Target Setting Analysis: Analysis team will analyze target setting. Setting line target depends on

following terms:

o SMV

o Manpower Operator and Helper

o Targeted Efficiency

Let, for any garments given SMV = 12.25

Total Manpower = 28 Operators + 25 Helpers = 53 Persons

Let us consider the line Efficiency = 100%

Then total outcome = 53 x 60

12.25

= 260 pieces per hour

But actual line Efficiency = 80%

Then outcome of this line = 53 x 80

12.25

= 208 pieces per hour.

Line Productivity Calculation:

Line productivity = target per hour x SMV x 100%

(Manpower x 60) – Non productivity time

= 208 x 12.25 x 100

(53 x 60) – 0

= 80%

If a line contains 53 manpower and target given per hour 200 then,

Line productivity = target per hour x SMV x 100%

(Manpower x 60) – Non productivity time

Page No 40

= 200 x 12.25 x 100

(53 x 60) – 0

= 77%

Again, manpower decrease 53 to 45 and line target remain same as 200 then,

Line productivity = target per hour x SMV x 100%

(Manpower x 60) – Non productivity time

= 208 x 12.25 x 100

(45 x 60) – 0

= 90%

Peak Target:

IE department gives peak target at afternoon for the next day. Generally, 50% target for the first

day 100% for the next day for Basic Items, 33 % target for 1st day, 66% target for 2nd day and

100% target for 3rd day for semi critical items, 25 % target for 1st day, 50% target for 2nd day 75%

target for 3rd day and 100% target for 4th day for critical items.

Operator Breaks Down Analysis: IE department will analysis operator break down.

Sewing information:

IE department advise sewing process to worker which is easy to keep in memory and the rate of

production increase as well as efficient and precise. The information of sewing is known as

generalized sewing data (GSD).

Definition of GSD: This is the special type of technique of sewing operation.

Braches of GSD:

a. Method analysis

b. Setting standard time

Page No 41

Method analysis:

Accept the best process among various types of process which is suitable as well as consume

least time.

The purpose of a method study:

Analyze method of work

Gain insight how work is performed.

Documents methods of works or detect potential for improvement.

Enable planning by providing data.

Disable possible hazard and dangers to safety.

Provide information for time studies, development for equipment wage calculation and

incentive scheme.

Standard time study:

Work measurement is the application of technique design to establish the time for a qualified

worker to carry out a task at a defined rate of working. Standard time will be a form of work

measurement.

The purposes of standard time study:

Establish standard times

Rate operator performance

Gain information to calculate overall production capabilities and data for capacity

planning

Establish the total work content of finished goods.

To determine standard time adding (18-25) % allowance according to types of machines and

three seconds bundling time to observe time of standard operator.

Include further three seconds to tie and untie per process of a bundle. As these way 20 pcs of

bundle included time is 01 minute. For example, if observe time of shoulder join is 12 seconds

Then standard time= 12 x (1+20%) +3

= 17.4 seconds=.29 minute.

Thread Consumption Analysis: Coats-4000 Mitre =1 Cone.

Sewing threads are different count. Like- 10/1 count, 20/2 count, 30/3 count, 40/4 count.

Page No 42

Operation Procedure:

i. Utilization

ii. Wastage Control

iii. Capacity Planning

iv. Worker Assessment

v. Improve Productivity

Utilization:

Manpower

Space/Material

Machine

On Time Shipment

Bottle Neck Analysis

Wastage Control:

Thread

Change Over Time

8 types of wastage in garments factory like below-

1. Over Production

2. Wait Time

3. Transportation

4. Processing

5. Inventory

6. Motion

7. Defects (alter)

8. Information

Capacity Planning:

MRP &MRP2

Motion Study

Time Stud

Worker Assessment:

Justify Skill Level

Proposal For Promotion

Page No 43

Improve Productivity:

NTP Reduce

Line Balance

Skill Balance

Irregular Works of IE Department:

5 S implementation

Cellular line implementation

Wastage reduction

Special M/C data base (SMB)

Worker assessment (yearly)

New worker assessment

Monthly skill operator update

Monthly operator sent to training department

4.8 Fabric division:

Spinning DepartmentRadial International Limited has two spinning units situated in Shavar (Rental). These units are

equipped with the latest machines in all of their departments. In the spinning units the fiber is

converted into yarn, and as this the quality of yarn is very important in the textile sector so

spinning units have a lot of importance.

Generally the spinning mills mechanism is very similar. It starts from the mixing department

where the bales of cotton are mixed and at that section the most visible impurities are taken out.

This mixed cotton is then taken to the blow room by a machine. After going through a process it

is taken to the card room for the next process.

After the card room the route is taken by keeping in view that whether carded yarn is the end

product or the combed yarn. The combed yarn is of better quality and its process is a bit bigger

than the other one.

For the carded portion the drawing breakers & drawing finishers are used to prepare the fiber to a

certain level so that the process on the simplex machine can be carried out. On the other hand, in

the combed portion, after the drawing breaker the cotton goes through the lab former, & after that

it goes through the combing machine, where the comer noil and comber sliver are separated.

The comber sliver, after passing through the PC drawing & Drawing finisher goes to the simplex

machine. The product that comes from the simplex machine is then taken to the Ring section

Page No 44

where the yarn is to be made. Finally after passing through the auto cone the yarn comes in the

packing department. In NML the process of Ultra Violet Checking is also practiced to ensure the

quality of the yarn.

As this process is very important so there are some common parameters on which the quality of

yarn is judged. These parameters have been listed as below:

Important Parameters of the Fiber.

o Length.

o Strength.

o Micronaire value.

o Color grade.

o Neps / gram.

o Trash percentage.

Important Parameters of Yarn:

o · Yarn count.

o · Strength LCSP.

o · U percentage.

o · Thin Places.

o · Thick Places.

o · Neps.

o · IPI (Imperfection).

Yarn Elongation (Flexibility)

o · Single Yarn Strength.

o · TPI.

o · Twist Multiplier.

4.9 Idea About Different Types of Yarn:

There are two types of Yarn considering raw materials – 1. Natural Yarn & 2. Man Made Yarn.

Natural Yarn – Natural yarn consists of two types of Natural Fibers such as – Vegetable Fibers &

Animal Fibers

A. Vegetable Fibers Are As Follows –

Cotton

Page No 45

Linen – It is obtained from the stalk of the flax plant. The hairlike fiber, which are held together

by a gummy substance called PECTIN, comprise the core of the flax stalk.

Hemp

Jute

Ramie

B. Animal Fibers – Animal Fibers are composed of Protein. There are mainly two types of animal

fibers such as Wools & Silk.

Wools – It is hair fiber come mainly from Sheep and other minor hair fiber comes from Camel,

Llama, Alpaca, Mohair, Cashmere, Vicuna, Guanaco, Rabbit and Qiviut.

Silk – Silk fiber is a fine continuous strand unwonted from the cocoon of moth caterpillar known

as the silkworm.

Man Made Fibers – There are several types of manmade fibers such as Cellulosic, Non-cellulosic

polymers, Protein, Rubber, Metallic and Mineral etc.

Cellulosic Fibers – It is natural fibers derivate from the cellulose of the cell wall of short cotton

fibers (Called Linters) and mainly from Pine Wood. There are 3 types of Cellulosic Fibers as

Rayon, Acetate and Triacetate.

Rayon – There are two types of rayon fibers as Viscose and High Wet-Modulus. Rayon producer

sell their fibers under their various trademark

Acetate – The fiber consists of a cellulose compound identified as acetylated cellulose – a

Cellulose salt. Acetate fiber is thermoplastic that mean it can formed into a desired shape by the

applications.

Triacetate – The fiber consists of acetylated cellulose that retains acetic groupings when it is

being produced as triacetate cellulose.

Non-Cellulosic Polymer Fibers Are As Follows –

Nylon

Aramid

Polyester

Acrylic

Modacrylic

Page No 46

Spandex

Polypropylene (Olefin)

Spun Yarn - Yarns can be made of staple (Short) fibers mainly by two methods –

Ring Spinning Methods

Open-End Spinning or Rotor Spinning Method invented during 1960 by Czechoslovakia.

Self–Twisted Spinning – For Wools

Filament Yarn – It is possible from manmade fibers.

Coverspun Yarn – It is newly invented in England by early 1970.

Twisting Of Yarn – S or Z

Commonly used counts in garments sector are from 6 to 120 NM. There are different types of

Yarn Counts for cotton, filament, wool, linen etc. Such as NE, NM, Tex, dTex, Den etc.

In sweater mainly used yarns are as follows –

Acrylic, Acrylic Blended (Such as with Polyester, Nylon, Ramie, wool, Rayon, Cotton), Viscose

& Blended Viscose, Wool & Cotton.

There are different types of Acrylic Yarn – Regular, Bright, Smilling, TT, Chenille, Twisted etc.

Weaving:

Very similar to the spinning units, the weaving units of NML are really very well equipped with

the latest machinery to make the best possible product for the customer to gain the customer

satisfaction.

Most of the machines in the weaving unit of NML are of new technology & NML has a very

good check on the quality of fabric produced by its Quality Control department.

The end product of the spinning unit is the starting point of the weaving unit. When the cones of

the yarn are brought to weaving unit, it is then taken to the warping zone in which the beams are

prepared.

These beams are then taken to the sizing section where the different chemicals are applied to the

yarn so that the weaving of the fabric can be done with the minimum breakage of yarn. After

sizing the process of drawing inn is applied so that the yarn could be converted into fabric.

After the drawing inn the beams of the yarn is then taken to the Sulzer Looms so that the yarn is

converted into the weaved product. When the greige is made, then it is taken to the inspection

department, where a lot of quality check is done. At the first step the fabric is classified into two

types, i.e. A grade & D grade.

Page No 47

The D grade fabric is either used in the B grade sale or in gathering of the fresh pieces. While the

process of A grade fabric is a bit longer.

The A grade fabric after mending, goes to the checking machines, from where it is taken to the

rechecking machines. After rechecking either the greige is rolled or folded & packed according to

requirements of the buyer.

During all the above process, quality is the main purpose of the NML people. The weaving units

of NML check the product quality as under:

4.10 Quality Control and Lab:

First of all the people of NML checks the quality of yarn before taking it into the process.

Following are the yarn characteristics that are checked before taking it into the process:

o Count Testing

o Strength Testing

o TPI

o Hairiness Testing

o Thick & Thin bases

At the warping section the following characteristic is checked:

o Breakage Report

When the sizing process is applied, the following two tests are applied:

o Abrasion Test

o Strength Test

Page No 48

QUALITY CONTROL LAB:

During the production, quality control lab ensures that every work has done according to the

standards of NML. Following checks are made at different departments

Checks while Printing:

o Rubbing

o Washing

o Dry Cleaning

o Chlorine Test

Checks after Curing:

o Rubbing

o Washing

Checks after Stenter Process:

o Light Fastness

o Shrinkage

o Rubbing

o Washing (Optional)

o Pilling

Checks after Raising:

o Quality check

The purpose of all these checks is to ensure the Quality of the end product.

QUALITY CONTROL LAB MACHINES:

Crock Meter:

Pilling Machine:

Garment Washing Machine:

Dura Wash:

Wascator Machine

Thumble Dryer

Light Box

Auto Wash

Curing Machine

Pader

Light Fastner Tester

Air Permea-meter

Page No 49

4.11 Fabric inspection procedure :Fabric inspection:

Before fabric delivery to cutting fabric inspection is done properly. To inspection the fabric we

follow here 4 point system (Data from fabric inspection section).

Fabric Quality Inspection:

The quality of a final garment depends on the quality of a fabric when it is received as a roll.

Even the most outstanding manufacturing methods cannot compensate for defective materials.

Normally, we inspect 10% of the rolls we receive and evaluate them based on a four-point

system. This way, we can avoid fabric related quality problems before it is put into production

Four- Point System:

Amount to select: Inspect at least 10% of the total rolls of the shipment.

Selection of rolls: Select at least one roll of each color. If more than one role must be selected,

then choose the additional roles in proportion to the total number of roles per color received.

Defect Classification (Four- Point System):

Size Defect Penalty .

3 inches or less: 1 Point

Over 3 inches, but less than 6: 2 Points

Over 6 inches, but less than 9: 3 Points

Over 9 inches: 4 Points

The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point. Only major defects are

considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. (A major defect is any defect that

would cause a final garment to be considered a second.)

Major Defects:

Major woven fabric defects include but are not limited to slubs, holes, missing yarns, yarn

variation, end out, soiled yarns, and wrong yarn.

Major dye or printing defects are out of register, dye spots, machine stop, color out, color smear,

or shading.

Acceptance Criteria and Calculation:

40 points per 100 yards is the acceptable defect rate

# of Points per 100 yds = # of penalty points x 100

Yds inspected

Page No 50

Inspection Procedure:

Determine the amount to inspect 10%).

Select the rolls to inspect.

Put the rolls on the inspection machine or other viewing device.

Cut off a 6 inch piece across the width off the end of the roll. Mark the right and left side of the

strip. Stop the inspection process every 50 yards and use the strip to check for any shading

problems. Also make sure to check the end of the role.

Inspect for visual defects with the light on at a speed slow enough to find the defects. (The fabric

must be checked at a slow rate in order to effectively find flaws). Sometimes you may

have to turn the light off to see how a flaw will affect the appearance of a garment.

Check that the roll contains the correct yardage as stated by the piece goods source.

Check for skewed, biased, and bowed fabric.

Mark any defects to the side with colored tape so that they can be easily found and noted.

Record any defects.

4 Point System:

Size of defect Penalty

3 inch or less 1 point

Over 3, but not over 6 2 point

Over 6, but not over 9 3 point

Over 9 inch 4 point

4.12 Different type fabric fault :

Whenever a fault occurs during the production of knit- wear, the machine has to be stopped, thus

promoting some loss in productivity. The faulty element needs to be located in order to be

removed, and some repairing procedures are required, depending on the severity of the damage.

Due to the importance of this problem, preventing measures were taken, namely a periodic

exchange of the entire set of knit- ting elements, which is time consuming and expensive.

Producers are also concerned with extracting more useful information from the knitting

production, which led to more instrumented machines

On the field of fault detection, the most widely used sys- tems are based on mechanical devices

and optical devices for detecting needle faults [5,6], optical devices for detect- ing knitwear

faults, which basically search for a pattern on the knitwear and yarn detectors made from Page No 51

mechanical systems. Last proposals in the biggest textile world fair ITMA 2003 from some

industry manufacturers tend to re- place the present yarn detectors by optical devices.

Machine-Related Factors:

Failure of spinning preparation to eliminate or minimize short and long-term variation

* Failure of opening and cleaning machines to completely eliminate contaminants and trash

particles

* Failure of the mixing machinery to provide a homogenous blend

* Excessive machine stops particularly during spinning

* Excessive ends piecing during spinning preparation

* Poor maintenance and housekeeping

* Knitting-related defects

* Dyeing and Finishing-related defects

Material-Related Factors:

* Fiber contaminants

* Excessive neps and seedcoat fragments

* Excessive short fiber content

* Excessive trash content

* High variability between and within-mix

* Clusters of unfavorable fiber characteristics

* Weight variation

* Twist variation

* Exce ssive Hairines

1. Barrre.

2. Press-off.

3. Miss-stitch.

4. Needle Mark.

5. Sinker Mark.

6. Oil Stain.

7. Crease Mark.

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8. Holes.

9. Slubs.

10. Spirility.

11. Broken Needle.

12. Pin Hole.

13. Tight Course.

14. Missing Yarn.

15. Course Yarn.

16. Soiled Fly.

17. Etc.

Severity of defects:

Barre → usually major

Askewd or bias → Could be major or minor

Birdseye → Major

Bowing → Major or minor

Broken colour pattern → Major

Crease streak → Major or Minor

Drop stitches → Major

End Out → Usually Major

Hole → Major

Missing Yarn → Major

Mixed Yarn → Major

Needle Line → Major or Minor

Pinholes → Major

Runner → Major

Slub → Major or Mino

Page No 53

4.13 Woven fabric:

Woven fabrics are made by using two or more sets of yarn interlaced at right angles to each other. Much variety is produced by weaving. Woven fabrics are generally more durable. They can be easily cut into different shapes and are excellent for producing styles in garments. However the raw edges ravel or fray easily and need to be protected. Fabrics having more fabric count (number of wrap and weft yearns present) keep the shape well. Low count fabrics are less durable and may snag or stretch.

Woven fabrics are manufactured in different widths depending on the end use. The fabrics used for apparels usually contain 90 cms width. The Sheeting materials are generally made having a width of 160 cm/140cms and 150cms/180 cms.

Page No 54

4.14 Flow Chart of Woven Process

Page No 55

Woven Fabric Types:

Buckram:

It is a stiff coated fabric made from a light weight loosely woven fabric, impregnated with adhesives and fillers. This fabric is used as interfacing so as to provide support and shape rentention to necklines, collars, belts, cuffs, waist bands, button closures etc in garments. They are also used as reinforcements for hand bags and other articles.

Cambric:

Cambric a light weight fabric woven in plain weave and produced with a stiff finish. It is suitable for women's dresses and children's dresses that require crispness.

Casement:

Casement is a medium weight cotton fabric made of closesly packed thick warp yarns. Generally it is used for curtains, tablelinen, upholstery and rarely used for dresses.

Cheese Cloth:

It is popular light weight sheer fabric having open weave. It has a low count fabric consisting of carded yarns. Originally it was used for wrapping cheese or meat and hence the name. It is neither strong nor durable. It is finished in a variety of ways that attract the consumer. It is used not only for women's and children's dresses but also for drapery fabrics. Due to its open structure, it does not require much ironing.

Chiffon:

Chiffon fabrics are sheer, light weight fabrics made of hard twisted yarns. Originally these are made in silk fabrics but today they are made from rayon or polyester. They are used for sarees and women's evening wear. The fabrics encounter with the problem of shrinkage.

Chintz:

Chintz is a medium weight, plain woven cotton yarn. It is often given a glazed finish which may be temporary or semi permanent glazed chintz are available in solid colour as well as printed with floral prints. These are often made from blends of cotton and polyester or rayon. They are used for skits, dresses, blouses, pyjamas, aprons and draperies.

Corduroy:

It is a cut pile fabric available in solid colours. The cut pile fibres are seen in the form of ribs on the surface. It is mainly used for pants, jeans and shirts.

Crepe:

A silk fabric is originally characterised by a crinkle, puckered surface formed by highly twisted yarns in the warp or weft or both. By using ordinary yarns similar crepe effects can also be

Page No 56

produced. Synthetic fabrics also impart crepe effect finish. It is used for sarees, shirts, women and children's dresses.

Denim:

It was traditionally a yarn dyed, warp faced cotton twill fabric. Warp is usually coloured (mostly blue, maroon, green and brown) and weft is white. This fabric is made of two weights for sports wear and overalls. It's use as jeans has made it very popular and so the nature of denim is also changed to suit the trend. It is often napped, printed and made with stretch yarn.

Drill:

It is a warp faced twill woven fabric. It has a stiff finish. Originally it was produced in white and now it is available in solid colours. It is mairly used for pants, knickers and uniforms.

Flannel:

Flannel is a woollen fabric woven in plain or twill weave having characteristic soft handle. It looks like a bulky fabric due to the milling that is usually done to this fabric. Flannel fabric is used for suits and pants and infacnt's clothing.

This fabric is popular as cleaning fabric due to its extreme softness. This is also used to protect children from cold atmosphere.

Gabardine:

Gabardine is a closely woven, clear finished warp faced twill fabric. It contains more number of warp yarns than weft yearns and also more durable. It is usually woven in 2/1 or 2/2 twill and has a raised diagonal twill effect on the right side. It largely used for rain coats, suitings and sports wear.

Georgette:

Georgette is a sheer light weight fabric, woven in plain weave. It has a characteristic rough texture produced by hard twisted ply, yarns both in warp and weft. Originally it was made in silk, but today it is produced in rayon and polyester too.

It's mainly suitable for women's evening wear.

Kashmir Silk:

Kashmir silk is a silk fabric produced in plain weave and is either embroidered or printed. The motifs used are characteristic of Kashmir. It is used for shirts, women's wear and sarees. Kashmir shawls are woven in twill weave and is usually embroidered with traditional Kashmiri embroidery.

Page No 57

Khadi:

Khadi is a term used to a wide variety of fabics that are hand spun and hand woven. They are produced in mainly one cotton fibre, blends of two or more fibres. They are known for durability, and simplicity. The fabrics can be suitings dhoties overalls and household textiles.

Lawn:

Lawn is a fine sheet, light weight, crisp fabric either made in cotton or linen. Various finishes are given to this fabric, in which the fabric is called by the name of the finish. It is mainly used as lining in dress.

Mulmul:

It is an Indian term generally applied to fine cotton fabric slightly heavier, than muslin. These are often printed fabrics. They find use as sarees.

Muslin:

Muslin is a light weight open cloth of plain weave. It may be used as grey or bleached and dyed. It is used as household textiles and dress materials.

Organdy

Originally it is a lawn fabric which is given a stiff finish. Acid is used for this finish to make the fabric transparent and stiff. It is mainly used for women's wear.

Poplin:

Poplin is a medium weight, cotton fabric hving a fine weft rib. it is generally used for shirting, dresses and upholstery.

Sheeting:

These are primarily used for bed coverings. They are medium weight, closely woven fabrics woven eigther in plain or twin weave. Sheeting fabrics are made in different widths. High quality cotton sheetings are made in plain weve with a width of 64" x 58" and in twill weave with a width of 60"x72".

Taffeta:

Taffeta is a smooth, crisp, transparent fabric having a fine rib. Originally it is made with silk fibres but now it is also made in rayon. It has a characteristic finish which produces crispness. It is used as women's evening wear.

Tissue:

It is a fine fabric either made in silk or man made fibre. They are characteristically interwoven with gold or silver threads. It is produced in rich colours and they are used as women's dress material, sarees etc.

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Velvet:

It is a warp cut pile fabric, originally made from silk. It is also produced in Rayon. The dense cut pile makes it very soft and lustrous. It is used as dress materials for women and children. It is also produced with special high twisted yarns which are single or ply yarns. Based on the yarns used and twist given, they are named as semi violes (single yarns1x1) full voiles. (ply yarns 2x2) or half voile (double in warp and single in weft 2x1).

4.15Lab Dips Preparation procedure:

The lab dip procedure is as follows-

Lab Test

Dimensional Stability

How to check dimensional stability

Color Fastness

Color Fastness to Crocking

Color Fastness to Wash

Color Fastness to Perspiration

Light Fastness

Piling

Laboratory

4.16 Garments washingThe technology which is used to modify the outlook, appearance, comfort ability and fashion of

the garments is called garment washing.

BEXIMCO Washing plant equipped 11 wash machines & 10 dry machines. 16 hours running

daily by the 40 workers. Washing plant has 12000 pcs garments dyeing and 50,000 pcs washing

capacity per day.

Advantage of Garments Washing:

a) Different outlook (fading effect) of garments could be produced by different washing

technique.

b) Washed garments could be worn directly after purchased from store.

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c) Shrinkage occurs in the garments during washing, hence no possibility of further

shrinkage.

d) Softness feeling of garments could be further increased.

Types of Wash:

1. Rinse wash

2. Enzyme wash

3. Stone wash

4. Enzyme bleaching wash

5. Silicone softener wash

6. Acid random wash

Design during wash :

1. TR / Drill

2. Tack

3. Spray

4. Blasting

5. Whisker

6. Pp whisker

7. Tuck whisker

Types of Wash in Woven Garments:

1. Normal Wash

2. Enzyme Wash

3. Enzyme Stone Wash

4. Vintage Wash

5. Acid Wash

6. Super Softener Wash

Flow chart of Washing:

Put the chemical into the M/C

↓

Take some Water

Page No 60

↓

Run the M/C

↓

Load garments into the M/C

↓

Take rest water

↓

Run the M/C 10 Min

↓

Unload

↓

Hydro Extractor

↓

Dryer

Washing Faults:

Shading Chemical Spot

Twisting

Needle Damage

Measurement ±

Grinding Placement Up down

Bleeding

Print Problem

Label Problem

Zipper Problem

Spirality

Rough Hand Feelings Washing Effects

4.17 PrintingTextile printing is the process of applying color to fabric in definite patterns or designs. In

properly printed fabrics the color is bonded with the fiber, so as to resist washing and friction.

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Textile printing is related to dyeing but, whereas in dyeing proper the whole fabric is uniformly

covered with one color, in printing one or more colors are applied to it in certain parts only, and

in sharply defined patterns.

In printing, wooden blocks, stencils, engraved plates, rollers, or silk screens are used to place

colors on the fabric. Colorants used in printing contain dyes thickened to prevent the color from

spreading by capillary attraction beyond the limits of the pattern or design.

Traditional textile printing techniques may be broadly categorized into three styles:

Direct printing: In which colorants containing dyes, thickeners, and the mordant or

substances necessary for fixing the color on the cloth are printed in the desired pattern.

Resist dyeing: In which a wax or other substance is printed onto fabric which is

subsequently dyed. The waxed areas do not accept the dye, leaving uncolored patterns

against a colored ground.

Discharge printing: In which a bleaching agent is printed onto previously dyed fabrics

to remove some or all of the color.

Printing past:

The purpose of thickener is to produce a medium for the dye paste and the resultant product is

called printing paste. The printing paste is an emulsion of thickener and hydrocarbon plus a

surface active agent.

Printing Ingredients :

The essential ingredients of a printing paste are selected from the followings-

1. Thickener

2. Dyestuffs or Pigment

3. Wetting Agent

4. Dispersing Agent

5. Carrier (in case of disperse dye)

6. Acid or Alkali

7. Anti-foaming Agent

8. Reducing Chemicals

9. Catalysts

10. Miscellaneous AgentPage No 62

11. Oxidizing Agent

12. Solvents

Types of Printing :

1. Pigment Print

2. Discharge Print

3. Rubber Print

4. Water Base Print

5. Flock Print

6. Foil Print

7. Plastic Print

8. Puff Print

9. Sticker Print

10. Heat Temperature Print

Printing fault :

Shade Variation/Uneven Shade

Print Side/Bias

Print Hand Feel

Spot/Oil Spot

Print Color/ Size Mistake

Print Grading Mistake

Print Position Wrong

Print Slanted/Color Shade

After Curing Fabrics Shade Variation

Print Stickiness/Print Curve

Print Color Bleeding

Glazed Mark

After Wash Color Bleed

Over Print/Over Lapping

Radish/Yellow’s/Blues Tone

Measurement Discrepancy at Print

Page No 63

4.18 Embroidery:Types of embroidery thread:

01. Polyester

02. Lurex or metallic

03. Filament

04. Cotton Thread

Thread Brand:

Brand Country Measurement

01. Madira Germany 2500 Cone

02. Coats Japan 3000 Cone

03. well Bangladesh 3000 Cone

04. Basic Bangladesh 5000 Cone

05. Pearl Bangladesh 3000 Cone

Others Accessories:

Interlining-tear able/ non tear able

Adhesive

Spray Gum

Fusing-Non woven, woven

Felt

Stitch Types of Embroidery:

Tatami Stitch

Satin Stitch

Run Stitch

Motif Stitch

Triple Run Stitch

Appliqué Embroidery

Page No 64

Normal Embroidery

Chicken Embroidery

Boring Embroidery

Sequined Embroidery

Eye lit Embroidery

Embroidery Faults:

Shade Variation/Uneven Shade

Embroidery Side/Bias

Needle Hole

Spot/Oil Spot

Interlining/Thread Color Mistake

Embroidery Grading Mistake

Embroidery Position Wrong

Embroidery Slanted/Color Shade

After Curing Fabrics Shade Variation

Print Stickiness/Print Curve

Print Color Bleeding

Glazed Mark

After Wash Color Bleed

Over Print/Over Lapping

Radish/Yellow’s/Blues Tone

Measurement Discrepancy At Embroidery

Page No 65

4.219DyeingA dye is a coloring substance, either from natural or synthetic that imparts its color throughout a

material by penetration. It is a colored, unsaturated organic chemical compound that is

responsible for the color of dyed & printed textile materials.

Working procedure in dyeing section :

• Grey Fabric Received

• (After Knitting)

• Batching

• Nutralizing

• Bio Polishing

• Dyeing

• De-watering

• Drying

• Compacting (Finishing)

• Inspection

• Packing

• Delivery

Page No 66

Working flow chart in dyeing section :

Scouring:

Scouring is the process where all natural and adventitious impurities such as oil, wax, fat, gum

etc are removed to produce hydrophilic and clean the textile material. It is the vital process of wet

processing.

Scouring Process:

There are two types of scouring process-

Conventional Scouring Process.

a) Kier Boiling (Discontinuous) Scouring. b) Scouring in J or L box (continuous)

Special Scouring Process.

a) Solvent Scouring Process. B) Vapor Loc Scouring Process.

Page No 67

Scouring process depends on the following factors:

1. Types of the fiber.

2. Types of the fabric.

3. Types of the fibre color.

4. Types of the fibre cleanliness.

5. Types of the twist and count of the yarn.

6. Types of the fabric construction.

Chemicals used in Scouring:

1. Alkali.

2. Wetting agent.

3. Detergent.

4. Sequestering agent.

5. Solvent.

General Recipe for Scouring:

Alkali (NaOH) - 2 to 5 gm per litre.

Soda ash - x gm per litre to adjust Pн ( Pн required for scouring is 10.5).

Wetting agent - 1 gm per litre.

Sequestering agent - 1 gm per litre.

Detergent - 1 to 2 gm per litre.

Temperature - 100 to 125˚c.

Time - 6 Hours (Close Vessel)

8 Hours (Open Vessel)

M: L - 1 : 10.

N.B: Water level should keep 6 to 8˝ above the fabric.

Machine capacity may be from 1 ton to 5 ton.

Bleaching :

Bleaching is the process for improving the whiteness of textile materials with removing the

natural coloring matters. Bleaching produces a pure, permanent and basic white effect on fabric

which is suitable for level dyein and sharp printing. During bleaching it should be carefully

observed that the bleaching agent does not reduce the tensile strength of fabric.

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Enzyme:

Enzyme is unicellular bacteria it may be acid-based or base-based which germinate in particular

temperature. The enzyme is used in the washing to soften the fabric and also remove loose yarn,

starch and sizing material.

Reactive dye :

Dye which contains reactive group and this reactive group makes covalent bond with the fibre

and acts as an integral part of the fibre is called reactive dye. The covalent bond is formed

between the dye molecules and the terminal – OH (hydroxyl) group of cellulosic fibres or

between the dye molecules and the terminal –NH2 (amino) group of polyamide or wool fibres.

The fibres which can be dyed by reactive dyes are:

By reactive dyes the following fibres can be dyed successfully-

a) Cotton, Rayon, Flax and other cellulosic fibers.

b) Polyamide (i.e. nylon) and wool fibers.

c) Silk and acetate fibers.

Dyed fabric finishing:

There are two types of dyed fabric finishing. Like below

Mechanical Finished

Temporary b) Permanent

Chemical Finished

Temporary b) Durable

Mechanical Finished:

Mechanical finishing is a general term to describe process carried out on a prepared and dyed

fabric in order to improve its suitability for the desire end use.

Name of Mechanical Finished

1. Calendaring

2. Raising

3. Dimensional change/ Compressive shrinkage

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Calendaring:

In this process dye fabric is passed in open width between roller under in order to alter its handle

surface texture and appearance. Temperature according to the dye & fabric shade.

Objective:

1. When passed the fabric than fabric luster will be increase.

2. To match the requirement color. Usually to produce dark/deep color to light color.

3. If any kind of crease mark occurs in calendaring process than this fault never rectify at the

fabric portion.

Types of calendaring Machine-

a) Ordinary Calendaring

b) Schreinering -useable

c) Moire effect calendaring

d) Friction calendaring

Raising:

This is a process in which fibre or fabric loops are pulled from the surface of the yarn to produce

a nap on the surface of the fabric. The machine used almost universally to raise cotton and

synthetic fabrics is the so-called durable action cylinder raising machine.e.g Terry.

Dimensional Change:

This operation results in a final product with reduced tendency to shrinkage in use. Many of the

process in preparation in dyeing subject fabric to warp way tension. So that a woven fabric

reaches a state in which much of the crimp in the warp threads has removed.

5. PRODUCTION PROCEDURE

Sample section

Pattern section

Page No 70

CAD Section

Cutting section

Sewing section

Finishing section

Packing section

5.1 Sample section

Sample is the prototype or model of the garment, upon what the buyer can decide on how and

whether to confirm the order or not.It makes for buyer approval and before a bulk of production

to minimize faults and errors and also find the easy process for bulk production.

Page No 71

Work flow of sample department:

Receive Tec pack from buyer (via merchandiser and DPD)

Cad and pattern making

Sample making

Approval

Size settings

Evaluating the sample

Pre production meeting Sending sample to the cutting section

Grading of sample Marker making Production Starts

Sending sample to the buyer Approval Grading of sample

Page No 72

Overview of Sample Department

1. CAD software, Garber Garments Technology (GGT)

2. Marker making software

3. Garber Plotter

4. Garber Digitizer

5. Pattern design software (PDS), Opti Te

6. Total Sewing m/c

7. Iron table

5.2 Sample Production section

Scouring the fabric and accessories for making the garment

Cutting

Emblishment

Sewing

Iron

Quality Control

Pre check from

Page No 73

Buyer QC

Forwarding collects from the merchandiser

Sending sample to the Buyer

Types of sample:

1. Proto or development sample

2. Size set/ Grade/ Fitting sample

3. Additional sample

4. Contract seal/ seal sample

5. Pre Production sample

6. Production sample

7. Sales Man Sample

8. Rack Sample

Types of Machine are used in Sample department:

1. Single Needle Lock Stitch m/c

2. 4 Thread Over Lock m/c

3. Over Lock Open Stitch

4. Plain machine Zig Zag

5. Flat lock m/c

6. Blind stitch

7. Bartack

8. Button Hole m/c

Page No 74

9. Button Attach

10. Snap Button

11. Shadle Stitch

12. Thread Recone

13. Back Neck Tape Attach

14. Chain Stich m/c

5.3 Pattern section:

Pattern is a hard paper which indicates the individual component of a garment according to the

design. A pattern, from the French patron, is type of theme of recurring events of or objects,

sometimes referred to as elements of a set. These elements repeat in a predictable manner. It can

be a template or model which can be used to generate things or parts of a thing, especially if the

created have enough in common for the underlying pattern to be inferred, in which case the

things are said to exhibit the unique pattern.

Pattern is two types-

1. Working pattern

2. Production Pattern

Working Pattern: The pattern which is made for sample making is called working pattern. It is

made for a particular style with net dimension or with allowance. That is

Working = Basic Block + Allowance.

Production Pattern: To make a pattern by following the approved sample along with allowance

is necessary before production. These patterns with allowance are called production pattern.

Pattern Making Method:

Pattern can be made both manually and automatically. In the manual method, pattern is made in

hand and then digitized by digitizer machine. On the other hand, automatic pattern is made by

using CAD software.

Page No 75

4.4 Pattern Making Flow Chart

Tec-pack Received from DPD Department

↓

Sketching Pattern

↓

Plotting/Printing

↓

Pattern Cutting Manually

↓

Pattern Development

↓

Pattern Grading

Hardware and Software used in Pattern Making:

1. CAD Software, Garber Garments Technology (GGT).

2. Marker making software- 2 pcs.

3. Garber Plotter- 3 pcs.

4. Garber Digitizer- 1 pcs.

5. Pattern design software (PDS), Optitex- 4 pcs.

Manually Equipment used in pattern Making:

1. Marker Paper

2. Pattern Board

3. Pencils

4. Rubber

5. Measurement Tape

6. Set Square

7. Metric Grading Squares

8. French Curves

9. Curved Rules

10. Pattern Cutter’s Scissors

11. Pattern Rack

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12. Cutting Table

13. Calculator

14. Pattern Hooks

15. Pattern Punch

16. Stanley Knife

5.5 CAD Section

The full meaning of CAD is “Computer Aided Design”. The textile and clothing industry has

been characterized in the past, by a certain resistance to automation and to computer-assisted

technology. CAD tools are nowadays increasingly demanded by cloth manufacturers to support

2D and 3D design phases, for stress analysis test on textile or virtual apparel simulation purpose,

to evaluate/improve the quality of apparel products through digital models, before any physical

prototyping, thus reducing production times and costs.

CAD department of “beximco Group” is using Garber software. Which is one of the best modern

software and used for making pattern and marker for particular garments in garments section.

Objectives of CAD:

1. To minimize cost and time.

2. For better efficiency.

3. To minimize errors.For production purpose.

Overview of CAD Department:

Main computer:

Page No 77

5.6 Process Flow Chart of CAD Department:

CAD Department

Page No 78

Merchandising

Art work and spread sheet from merchandiser.

Making pattern as per spread sheet + Art work

Contact with fabric department for required fabric.

RCVD buyer approval Master pattern

Cutting

Manual delivery to concern merchandiser for approval

Manual work for neck rib + Binding or Back Tape

Marker making as per color art work

Computer processing order model

Delivery to cutting for production

The separate color pattern computer maker making as per ratio

Pattern update after getting size set report as per color wise

Completion of Grading as per spec sheet / sample

Grading pattern with marker send to cutting section for Trial cut / Size set

Working procedure of CAD department:

Merchandisers bring the order from buyer and collect sample or sample details. Then calculate

the fabric consumption and cost according to design. Merchandisers also collect art work and

spread sheet from buyer and then send it to CAD department.

Art work and spread sheet:

After receiving the art work and spread sheet from merchandiser or DPD department, the CAD

section starts to make pattern according to the order.

Pattern making:

Pattern making is the main job for CAD department. This department to making pattern as per art

work and spread sheet.

Contact with fabric section:

Before making marker the CAD department contact with fabric section to know about fabric

width, GSM, knitting dia (for knit fabric) and also to know the type of fabric.

Marker making as per color art work:

The CAD operator made marker as per color art work and panels quantity.

Manual work for neck rib + Binding or Back Tape:

These are designed by CAD and cut them manually by straight knife cutting machine.

Marker delivery to concern Merchandiser for approval:

CAD department send the marker to merchandiser for approval.

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5.7 Cutting section

Fabric Cutting department is the one which plays a key role in production. It is the beginning of

the production. So the fabric cutting has the most efficient professionals working in it .The fabric

cutting department should work as fast as possible because the more the unloading of bundles can

take place the more the production can take place.

The cutting department objectives:

Quality control

Cutting

Minimize Wastage

So cutting department was performing these responsibilities. Mr. Arif the Cutting supervisor who

shared the rules of cutting that is the foundation of the complete stitching department. Those are

One: LENTH FOR LENGTH (L*L)

Two: WIDTH FOR LENGTH (W*L)

Cutting Section Follow the Below Step:

Marker Making

Fabric Spreading

Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay

Fabric Cutting

Numbering

100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed.

Shorting & Bundling

Input to Sewing Room.

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Objectives of Cutting Department:

Prepare fabrics for RMG (Ready Made Garment).

Cut fabrics according to design and pattern.

Prepare fabrics for sewing and also for printing and embroidery.

Involvement of others sections:

a. Fabric Inspection

b. Spreading of the pile of fabric

c. Cutting of the pile

d. Stickering

e. Bundling

f. Quality check

Page No 81

Cutting Department

Process flowchart of cutting department:

Fabric Inspection

Fabric Spreading

Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay

Fabric Cutting

Numbering

100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed.

Shorting & Bundling

Input to Sewing Room

Page No 82

Fabric spreading:

For better cutting perfect fabric spreading is more important.

Fabric spreading means smooth lying out of fabrics as per marker direction. Fabric spreading is

the preparatory process for cutting. In this processing no. of plies up to 300 is possible in one lay.

But generally in Standard group we are using 75 to 100 lays are using at a time. Sometimes is it

depending on product quantity. (This data is collected from internet and m/c operator, by Garber

spreading m/c we can lay 100 lays of fabric. But here we use maximum 75 lays.)

During fabric spreading a cut order plan or composition is to be maintained. That is-

1. The no. of plies of each color depends on order quality and thickness of fabrics.

2. Ply length depends on marker length.

3. Right or wrong side of fabrics.

4. Careful in checked fabric.

Some vital step before much cutting for production:

Size set cutting: Cut two pieces body and relevant parts per size and check the measurement is it

ok or not. Then send it to the sewing section. After sewing recheck all size, and ensure the correct

measurement which has given in specification sheet. If find the measurement is short that time

pattern size will increase. After correction pattern check it again. Check shrinkage and twisting.

Trial cutting: After size set cutting some pieces of garments are going to random sewing up to

finishing from each size. After sewing check all garments that, have any defect or not. If any

defect happens in any garments, find out where it’s occurred. After then make pattern again based

on defect.

Test cutting: After trial cutting again some pieces of garments are going to sewing from each

size. But at first must be over come all kinds of defect.

Much cutting: when every step is ok, then much production will be started.

Page No 83

Different types of documentation sheet in cutting section:

Many format sheets & make record of every attempt related to this individual order or style. They

maintain much documentation during the order running on which are as follows:

Cutting Quality Control Sheet.

Spreading Quality Control Sheet.

Daily Cutting Output Status Sheet.

Cutting Information Chart.

Marker Preparation Chart.

Cut Panel Inspection & Replacement Report.

Fabric Shrinkage Report.

Spreading Sheet.

Input Record.

Marker Check Report.

Cutting Plan.

WIP Report – Per Day.

Cutting Report Size wise Ratio.

Cutting Forecast Plan.

Consumption Report.

Page No 84

5.8 Sewing section

Sewing is the most important step of garments manufacturing. Sewing means the joining of

garment components with the help of needle and thread. It is the dominant process of garments

assembling and still the best way of achieving both strength and flexibility in seam as well as in

manufacturing method.

The objectives of the stitching department are

The cost minimization and

To minimize wastage

Best utilization of time

Quality control by line checker

In a Standard company three section of sewing

Page No 85

In Line Work:

After getting all necessary things supervisor will start paper layout and take necessary actions to

avoid the problems which can be effected during pick production time.

Lay out Submit:

Before start the production, supervisors submit the layout sheet in IE & maintenance department.

PP Meeting:

Before starting the sewing in the line of the new style it has to be conduct pp meeting to avoid the

missing of buyer comments or requirement.

Label Check:

AQC check the label against trim card & give the permission to start the sewing.

Sewing Start:

It is mentioned that sewing will start by size wise which size quantity is huge.

During Sewing:

Supervisor & Line-chief doing the major job during the sewing.

They always try to solve the up-coming problem.

Maintain the hourly production with right quality.Page No 86

Output:

After doing all process and quality check garments will store in output table.

Reporter will collect the garments from output table.

After collecting the garments, reporter will count and delivery the goods in finishing section by

size wise.

Sewing defect fault

Stitch, seam, feed mechanism, needle and thread together determine the seam appearance and

performance. The problems which arise when materials are sewn vary in their seriousness. Some

are major problems which can not be overlooked and for these problems garments will be

rejected by the inspector, where as some are minor problems which are negligible in low quality

garments.

The problems are most conveniently divided into:

1. Problems of fabric distortion known as seam pucker which give rise to poor seam appearance.

Page No 87

2. Problems of stitch formation which also give rise to poor seam appearance and performance.

3. Problems of damage to fabric along the stitch line.

1. Seam pucker.

2. Broken or open stitch.

3. Staggered stitch.

4. Slipped stitch or skipped stitch.

5. Variable stitch density.

Of them the first two are major problems and the rest are less serious problems.

1. Problems of Seam pucker:

Seam pucker is a major problem. Pucker is a wrinkled appearance along a seam when compared

to a smooth fabric.

The main causes of seam pucker problem are mentioned below-

a) Mainly seam pucker occurs due to unequal tension of feed dog and pressure feet on

two plies of fabric.

b) It also occurs due to unequal thread tension and unsuitable thread.

c) It may occur due to feeding problem and needle size.

d) It also occurs due to shrinkage of either fabric or sewing thread.

e) It may occur due to instability of fabric dimension or fabric construction.

The steps that may be taken to reduce seam pucker problem

By using finer thread and fine needle seam pucker problem may

be reduced.

b) By adjusting proper tension and pressure of feed dog and pressure feet on fabric plies, it can be

removed.

c) By using unshrinkable sewing thread and fabric it can be minimized.

d) By reducing the stitch density it can be reduced.

e) In chain stitching, seam pucker occurs less frequently.

f) By using two plies of fabric with same shrinkage rate seam pucker can be minimized.

2. Problems of stitch formation:

A. Broken or Open stitch:

Page No 88

It is also a major problem of sewing. The reasons of occurring broken or open stitch are

mentioned below –

Mainly, due to the breakage of needle or bobbin or looper thread in high speed sewing. This is

responsible for broken or open stitch.

a) Needle thread breakage occurs due to following reasons –

i. If tension on needle thread is more.

ii. If snarling of yarn occurs in tension disc.

iii. If fraying of needle thread occurs.

iv. Excess needle heating or hook heating.

v. Low quality sewing thread.

vi. Sharp edge of throat plate, hook of bobbin cage, needle groove etc.

b) The causes of bobbin or looper thread breakage are mentioned below –

i. Faulty winding of thread on bobbin.

ii. Excessive tension on bobbin or looper thread.

iii. Sharp edge of bobbin cage, looper eye, and spring.

iv. Faulty fitting of bobbin cage.

The remedies of this problem are-

a) Adjusting proper tension of bobbin and needle thread.

b) Proper unwinding of thread from package.

c) Removing sharp edge of machine parts.

d) Using good quality strong sewing thread.

B. Staggered stitch:

If the stitches produced by needle are not parallel with the seam line individually they are called

staggered stitches.

The causes of staggered stitches are mentioned below:

a) Due to needle deflection and vibration.

b) Due to loose fitting of needle butt inside the needle bar.

c) Due to wrong selection of needle point.

d) Due to combination problem of needle and thread size.

e) Due to faulty speed and motion of feed dog.

f) Due to improper controlling of fabric by the feed mechanism.

The remedies of staggered stitches are as below:

Page No 89

a) Assuring tight fitting of needle inside the needle bar.

b) Adjusting needle point and thread size properly.

c) Adjusting the motion of feed dd) Adjusting the pressure of pressure foot.

C. Slipped or skipped stitch:

If the continuation of stitches in a seam line is hampered by slipping some stitches it is called

slipped or skipped stitch. If the looper in the machine can not pick the loop of needle thread from

the underside, slipped stitch arises.

The causes of slipped stitches are mentioned below:

a) If timing between needle and looper or bobbin is not proper, needle thread loop is not picked

up by bobbin thread loop when required. This will cause slipped stitch.

b) If the loop of needle becomes smaller in size slipped stitch occurs.

c) Unequal tension between the two sets of thread.

d) Deflection or vibration of needle.

e) Due to flagging during sewing.

The remedies the problems are –

a) The timing between needle and looper should be adjusted properly.

b) Needle and thread size should be adjusted.

c) Pressure feet and throat plate should be adjusted.

d) Needle thread tension should be proper.

D. Variable stitch density:

It is the variation of number of stitches per unit length of seam. The causes of variable stitch

density are mentioned below:

a) If fabric cannot move forward properly due to lack of pressure of pressure feet.

b) Due to faulty feed mechanism. It can occur particularly with materials with sticky or slippery

surfaces.

The remedies of the problem are –

a) Adjustment of pressure feet pressure.

b) By using specialized feed mechanism it can be minimized.

E. Unbalanced stitch:

Page No 90

These types of faults are found mainly in lock stitches. If the interlacement of needle thread and

bobbin thread is not occurred at the middle of two plies of fabric then unbalanced stitch is

formed.

The causes of unbalanced stitches are-

a) If the tension of thread is not accurate.

b) If sewing path is wrong.

c) Faulty settings of bobbin.

d) If lubricant is not used in the thread.

The remedies of the problem are-

a) The tension of thread should be accurate.

b) Thread path should be accurate.

c) The settings of bobbin should accurate.

d) By using good quality thread.

3. Problems of damage to the fabric along the stitch line.

a) Mechanical damage:

1. Needles can strike and break fabric yarns and burst the loops in knitted fabrics. For this

appropriate set and ball point needles are necessary.

2. Needles should always be as small as possible.

3. Sometimes the combination of the machine speed and nature of the fabric prevents the yarns

from moving out of the way of the needle sufficiently fast to avoid damage .To solve the

problems either reduce the speed which means lesser production or ensure that the fabric is

adequately lubricated. It calls for having resin finish on the fabric.

b) Needle Heating Damage:

Needles heating occurs as a result of friction between the needle and the fabric being sewn.

In high speed sewing of dense material, temperatures as high as 3000or even 3500c can be

reached.

5.9 Finishing sectionPage No 91

Finishing means the finish any work/ order effectively. But before that work we should do the

work according to the requirements of Buyer’s such as folding, poly bagging, assorting, packing

or carton.

Flow Chart of Finishing Department

Buyer wise color wise & size wise Finishing Record

Buyer wise Iron Input table ready for Iron

↓

Buyer Wise Hourly Destination Iron Table

↓

Buyer Wise Pre Final Inspection Area

↓

Buyer Wise Sewing Tag & Hang Tag Attach Area

↓

Buyer Wise Hang Tag & Getup Area

↓

Buyer Wise Folding & Poly Area

↓

Buyer Wise Barcode Attach Area

↓

Buyer Wise Style Color & Size Wise Area

↓

As per Packing List Size Wise Quantity than Metal Area

Page No 92

↓

Buyer Wise Packing & Carton Complete Area

↓

Carton Sticker Area

↓

Buyer Wise Pre Final Inspection Area

↓

Buyer Wise Ready for Final Inspection

↓

Complete Po Wise Carton

↓

Shipment

Buyer wise color wise & size wise Finishing Record:

After receiving from sewing department at first finishing dept. do the record of buyer wise, color

wise and size wise record of that particular order.

Buyer wise Iron Input table ready for Iron:

Next the dept. would arrange the table prepared for a different buyer for ironing.

Buyer Wise Hourly Destination Iron Table:

The third work the finishing dept have to do that the hourly ironing output meet to the customer’s

requirement with quality inspected.

Buyer Wise Sewing Tag & Hang Tag Attach Area:

Then the dept works for whether the sewing tag & hang tag have been attached with the finished

products or not.

Buyer Wise Hang Tag & Getup Area:

Next it has to ensure the get up of these products in accordance with the buyer’s requirement.

Buyer Wise Folding & Poly Area:

In this area the dept. follows the folding and poly has been set up to meet the customer’s

requisition.

Page No 93

Buyer Wise Barcode Attach Area:

Then it has to work for the buyer’s requirement barcode attach area.

Buyer Wise Style Color & Size Wise Area:

Here in this area the finishing dept. should separate the style, color and size so that it can meet the

customer’ requirement.

As per Packing List Size Wise Quantity than Metal Area:

After that the finishing dept. will have to check whether any metal has been used in this pack or

not.

Buyer Wise Packing & Carton Complete Area:

Next it has to work for meeting the buyer’s requiring packing and carton.

Carton Sticker Area:

In this area the finishing dept. work for whether the sticker of the carton has been attached or not.

Buyer Wise Pre Final Inspection Area:

Next arrange the pre final inspection by the Viyellatex Group Authority meeting to the

requirement of the buyer.

Buyer Wise Ready for Final Inspection:

Finally prepare the products for the final inspection nominated by the buyer.

Complete PO Wise Carton:

Then the finishing dept work for PO wise carton.

Shipment:

Page No 94

Finally do the shipment of the products according to the buyer’s lead time.

Final inspection process of garment

To get the accuracy of final inspection, Standard has to maintain a sequence of different steps is

as follows:

1. Verifying packing list comparing with PO sheet.

2. Determining of lot size.

3. Selecting of inspection severity level & sampling plan.

4. Preparation of inspection.

5. Checking of carton.

6. Selection of carton.

7. Checking of packing & packaging.

8. Selection of Sample (Sample packing).

9. Checking of sample (garments).

10. Checking of measurement (Dimension).

11. Recording of defects/ defectives / non conformances.

12. Tabulation and evaluation of results.

13. Drawing of defective sample for reference.

14. Filling up of carton.

15. Putting of sticker & signature on carton.

16. Preparation of Report.

6. COMMERCIAL DEPARTMENT

Page No 95

Along with the cutting section, there is another important depart named as commercial

department. The working of commercial department starts from receiving the stitching programs.

First of all, they see whether it is a new order or a repeat order. Then they issue a demand order

through their Purchase Department. It is the duty of the commercial department to arrange all the

equipment needed in the stitching unit for every bulk order. The products which are the

responsibility of the commercial department includes label, fusing, polyester rope, stiffener,

insert card, poly bag, stickers, size stickers, identification sticker, barcodes, security codes etc.

Commercial Department working with the L/C. they are following step to open L/C, Master L/C,

and Back To Back L/C.

Application procedure to bank for Back to Back L/C

Checking Master L/C related with terms conditional in Master L/C

Acceptance Procedure of Master L/C

Collection of all relevant documents forms different companies and organization like

G.S.P, CO etc.

Cash Incentive certificate, Bill of lading and bill a exchange

Preparation a commercial invoice

6.1 Application Procedure to Bank for B/B L/C Opening

Which L/C issued against the original Master L/C is called B/B L/. A back to back L/C is a letter

of credit issued for the account of a buyer, who is already holding an Master L/C in his or her

favor. The back to back L/C is issued in favor of the supplier to import raw materials required to

produce the item meant for export as stipulated in the credit being held by the buyer.

Papers / documents required for submission to the bank for opening of back to back L/C are-

1. Master L/C.

2. Valid Import registration certificate & Export registration certificate.

3. L/C application & LCA form duly filled-up & signed.

4. Pro-forma Invoice or Indent.

5. Insurance cover note with money receipt.

6. IMP From duly signed.

In addition to the above the following papers / documents are also required for export oriented

garment industries while requesting for opening of back to back L/C:-

Page No 96

a) Textile permission.

b) Valid bonded ware house license.

c) Quota allocation letter issued by EPB in fervor of the applicant in case of quota items.

d) In case the factory premises is a rented one, letter of disclaimer duly executed by the

owner of the house / premises to be submitted.

Application format of B/B L/C to the bank are as follows.

February 01/2012

To

The manager (Import).

L/C issuing bank name & address.

Ref: Account name ……… holding A/C No………. with your branch.

Sub: Request for opening a back to back L/C against export L/C number…… received by buyer.

Dear Sir,

We would like to inform you that please open B/B L/C for US$ against Master L/C to enable we

import fabric to execute the stipulated in the said Master L/C.

You are hereby authorized to keep the aforesaid original Master L/C #......... as lien …….to cover

finances involved in the opening back to back L/C.

Thanks,

Applicant name

Signature & designation.

Encl:

1. Contract.

2. Banks L/C application duly filled-up.

3. Insurance cover note (if applicable)

4. Import form(if applicable)

5. L.C.A (Letter of credit authorization form)

6.2 Checking M L/C Related with Terms Condition Mention in M L/C

Page No 97

Export LC no.

LC opening data.

Name of the L/C opening bank.

Whether issued as per UCP.

Name of the beneficiary.

Name of the foreign buyer.

Whether it is authentic/ test agreed.

Whether it is irrevocable.

Whether it is transformable.

Whether it is confirmed by third bank.

Whether transfer is restricted.

Whether transfer is regular.

Expiry date of Export L/C.

Place of Expiry L/C.

Amount of Export L/C.

Last data of shipment of Export L/C.

Port of destination.

Negotiation period.

Whether negotiation is restricted.

Bill of Lading clause/air way ball clause.

Whether Export L/C is genuine.

Payment clause.

Basis of L/C Whether FOB/C and F/CIF.

Name of Esportable category no.

Export promotion bureau allocation no.

Quantity of exportables.

Name of the county to export.

Name of particular shipping line if any.

Reimbursement instruction on export L/C.

If the export L/C opening bank is not required.

Fabric description of export L/C.

BBLC proforma invoice description.

Documents Required:

Commercial invoice.

Page No 98

Packing lis.t

BL/FCR.

Original inspection Report.

Order confirmation certificate.

GSP form.

Packing list approval.

Additional condition. (required amendment)

Bank to bank documents send to.

6.3 Acceptance Procedure of M L/C

Copy of master L/C or received of this documentation from the buyer, the exporters become sure

that they would obtain foreign currency after the perches shipment.

Contract sheet - Sing by buyer and vender (2 pages)

Style number

Shipment date

Mode of shipment (sea / air)

Order quantity and size ratio….XL, XXL, SML

Fabric description

Spec sheet.

6.4 Collection of All Relevant Document from Different Companies and

Organizations Like GSP. CO, EXP, LDGSP system:

Page No 99

GSP means generalized system of preference. Bangladeshi garments are exported in the

European union market at a quota free system. EEC sectioned duty free status for Bangladeshi in

1992 for importing of our readymade garments in their market which is known as GSP.

If any importer can prove in European Union market that his garments is produced by the

Bangladeshi fabric, he will get this facility. EEC importers get 12% duty rebate on woven fabrics

and 12.50% duty rebate on knit fabrics on their CIF invoice value.

In order to quality for the GSP facility we have to abide by some terms and conditions relevant to

the rules of origin. Following is the terms and conditions.

1. Three stage transformation for woven fabrics i.e.

a) Grey fabric to be produced in Bangladesh.

b) Dyeing printing and finishing of these fabrics to be done here.

c) Finally readymade garments to be produced here by these fabrics.

2. Four stage transformation for knit fabrics i.e.

a) Yarn to be produced here from raw cotton.

b) Grey fabric to be produced.

c) Dyeing printing and finishing to be done.

d) Finally knit garments to be made here.

It is a common demand by the customers authorities in EU.GSP facility get EU importers when

they import garments from third world country.

The certificate of origin is a document that is required in certain nation. It is a signed statement as

to the origin of the export item. Certificate of origin are usually signed through a semi-official

organization such as local chamber of commerce.

6.5 Preparation of Commercial InvoiceAn invoice is a commercial document issued by a seller to a buyer, indicating the products, the

quantity and description of the goods the loading port and destination port, the mode of

transportation, the country of origin, the price per unit and total cost of the goods with which the

Page No 100

seller has already provided the buyer. An invoice indicates that payment is due from the buyer to

the seller, according to the payments terms. The shipper gets the invoice ready at the time the

goods are being is prepared for shipping.

6.6 Document Submission Procedure in BankHave to fill up the forms mentioned above and after verifying and signing the following

documents should be submitted to the bank: -

Trade license (valid)

IRC (import Registration certificate)

Membership certificate

Memorandum of association

Income tax declaration

A photograph

Local Document:

Bill of exchange.

Invoice.

Packing list.

Co/ delivery challan / truck challan

Good production certificate (BTMA) original copy.

GP2 challan

Foreign Documents:

Bill of exchange.

Invoice.

Packing list.

Page No 101

Bill of lading.

GSP/CO/Inspection certificate

6.7 Application procedure to Procedure for Cash Incentive from Bank

Procedure for cash intensive from bank with reference to the above we enclosing relative

document

Application forwarding.

Application form.

Pay order.

Undertaking.

Bank certificate.

Proceeds realization.

Invoice for Export and B/C.

Lock back to back related document.

Utilization declaration.

Copy of Export L/C.

6.8 Containers Sizes and Kinds

Standard containers.

High-cube containers.

Hard-top containers.

Open-top containers.

Flat racks.

Platforms (plats).

Ventilated containers.

Insulated and refrigerated containers.

Bulk containers.

Tank containers.

ISO standard:

There are five common standard lengths, 20-ft (6.1 m), 40-ft (12.2 m), 45-ft (13.7 m), 48-ft (14.6

m), and 53-ft (16.2 m). United States domestic standard containers are generally 48 ft (15 m) and

53-ft (rail and truck). Container capacity is often expressed in twenty-foot equivalent units (TEU,

or sometimes teu). An equivalent unit is a measure of containerized cargo capacity equal to one

Page No 102

standard 20 ft (length) × 8 ft (width) container. As this is an approximate measure, the height of

the box is not considered, for instance the 9 ft 6 in (2.9 m) High cube and the 4-ft 3-in (1.3 m)

half height 20 ft (6.1 m) containers are also called one TEU.

The maximum gross mass for a 20 ft (6.1 m) dry cargo container is 24,000 kg, and for a 40-ft

(including the 2.87 m (9 ft 6 in) high cube container), it is 30,480 kg. Allowing for the tare mass

of the container, the maximum payload mass is therefore reduced to approximately 22,000 kg for

20 ft (6.1 m), and 27,000 kg for 40 ft (12 m) containers.

6.9 Give The Back To Back L/C To Supplier

Seller and Buyer conclude a sales contract, with method of payment usually by letter of

credit or L/C.

Buyer applied to his issuing bank, usually in buyer’s country for letter of credit in favor of

seller.

Issuing bank requests another bank, usually in seller’s country to advise and usually to

confirm the credit.

Advising bank usually in sellers country, forwards letter of credit to seller informing

about the terms and conditions of credit.

If credit terms and conditions conform to sales contract, seller prepares goods and

documentation and arranges delivery of goods to carrier.

Seller presents documents evidencing the shipment and draft (Bill of exchange) to paying,

accepting or negotiating bank named in the credit (The advising bank usually) or any bank

willing to negotiate under the terms of credit.

( In case of ocean freight) in exchange for the goods or delivery order

6.10 Booking ship and Confirm Freight

Issued by the Shipping (Conference) Line which intimates the exporter about the reservation of

space of shipment of cargo through the specific vessel from a specified port and on a specified

Page No 103

date. It is an application to the customs authorities at port which advises short shipment of goods

and required for claiming the return.

7. HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT

7.1 Recruitment Procedure Both Technical & Non-Technical Person

The policy of recruitment should be inducted employees with qualification, training, experience

and intelligence. Proper recruitment increase productivities, able to collect more business,

established business principle etc. The recruitment policy of managerial and worker levels are

discussed below.

Source of employee

Internal source.

External source.

The recruitment procedure of the managerial levels are given below-

Collect requisition from different department.

Search this post has in the organogram or not.

Formulate requirements of education, training,

experience, requirements if any etc.

Requisition paper send to the E.D.

For taking permission of recruitment.

Give advertisement in B.D. jobs for applying.

Receive all application and make short list.

Make an interview board and call short listed candidates.

Page No 104

The interview board take the interview

and select the suitable candidates.

Interview board send the selected candidates

list to the higher authority for approval.

Basically most of the time company recruit employee from external source. Sometimes fulfill

post by the internal person to give promotion, reference of higher authority etc otherwise collect

employee through circulars.

Recruitment procedure of worker levels:

Collect requisition

Give circular through banner or liflate

People gathered infront of gate for job.

Take one skill test

Select some of them and collect some papers such as

Chairman Certificate, National I.D. card, Health Certificate etc.

Give the working permission.

7.2 Training Procedures to the Workers Levels and Managerial Levels

Page No 105

Training is the process of altering employee’s behavior and attitudes in a way that increase the

probability of goal attainment by training the employee will be skillful and increase ability to

perform his job.

Training procedure for managerial levels in pinaki group. Are as follows-

For new employers:

Make training schedule.

Orientation training.

About working environment.

About specific job.

Rules and regulation of company.

Information about managerial job.

For old employers :

Training needs analysis.

dentified the problem in every department.

Make training schedule.

How increase working efficiency.

Introduce with new rules if any.

Organizational behaviors.

Modern communication.

Introduce with update version

Training procedure of the worker levels in square group. Are as follows-

Actually in this company, there has no fixed training procedure of the workers. Non experience

people join as helper and they learn technical things from operator. When operator face any

problem this time line chef, line in charge or production manager guide them.

7.3 Job Evaluation Procedure to Ensure Promotion and Financial Benefit

Page No 106

In Square group. strongly follow the job evaluation process. After every six month evaluate job

performance of every employee in every department, it is a continuous process.

The job evaluation criteria of employee are as follows-

How many days absent or not.

Working skills.

Any complain letter.

Department incharge statement.

Communication skills.

In and out time.

On the basis of those criteria this company provides increment and promotion after every six

month.

7.4 Training

Getting off on the right foot

Many companies provide some sort of introductory training or orientation for most of their new

employees. It may take the form of an older employee assigned to show the new employee "the

ropes." Or it may be left to the HR department or the individual's new supervisor to show them

where the coffee pot is and how to apply for time off.Many organizations, especially in

government and academia, have created new employee training that is designed, exclusively or

primarily, to provide mandated safety familiarization.Yet some companies in highly competitive

industries recognize the value in New Employee Orientation (NEO) that goes much farther. They

require several weeks or even months of training to familiarize every new employee with the

company, its products, its culture and policies, even its competition.There is a measurable cost to

that training, but is it worth it? Let's look at some of the issues.

7.5 Compensation

Page No 107

Some business costs, such as rent, materials, and borrowing, often decline during economic

downturns. Rising unemployment may also tempt business owners to assume they’ll be able to

pay new hires much less than when times were better. But determining how to compensate new

employees involves more than the unemployment rate.

Base wage rates and salaries do not typically fluctuate much in accordance with the overall

economy, so don’t make major adjustments to these when formulating offers to job candidates.

Keeping salaries fairly stable avoids friction between recent hires and other employees. Long-

term employee discontent is not a good trade-off for short-term salary savings. Many employers

do better taking a long-term approach and adjusting salaries and benefits to meet typical market

conditions rather than risking being seen as taking advantage of an employer’s market.

You can find out what a fair salary is for existing company positions or newly created ones by

checking compensation surveys and other sources. The federal Bureau of Labor Statistics

publishes several free reports, including information on salaries in broad occupational niches,

such as the Occupational Outlook Handbook. Private sources may deal with more specialized

data. For instance, Radford, a compensation consulting company, publishes a quarterly survey of

trends in technology and life sciences practices.

7.6 Performance appraisal

Employee Name:_____________

Evaluation Date:____

Cooperation

1. Willingness to assist coworkers ____

2. Attitude when work needs to be repeated ____

3. Adaptability when schedule must be changed ____

4. Willingness to work extra hours ____

Comments:

Attendance and Punctuality

1. Promptness at the start of the work day ____

2. Attendance record ____

3. Stays as late as necessary (within reason) to complete assignment and/or current activity (not a Page No 108

clock watcher) Days Sick:______

Days Tardy:______

Comments:

Initiative

1. Sees when something needs to be done and does it ____

2. Seeks help when needed ____

3. Demonstrates a "self-starter" attitude ____

4. Helps out to achieve the overall goals of the farm ____

5. Makes practical, workable suggestions for improvements ____

6. Commitment to self-improvement ____

Comments:

Dependability

1. Can be counted on to carry out assignments with careful follow-through and follow-up ____

2. Meets predetermined targets or deadlines ____

3. Can be counted on to overcome obstacles to meet goals ____

4. Can be counted on to adapt to changes as necessary ____

5. Can be counted on for consistent performance ____

6. Is personally accountable for his/her actions ____

Coments:

Attitude

1. Offers assistance willingly ____

2. Makes a positive contribution to morale ____

3. Shows sensitivity to and consideration for others' feelings ____

4. Accepts constructive criticism positively ____

5. Shows pride in work ____

Comments:

Judgment

1. Demonstrates good judgment in handling routine problems ____

2. Analyzes decisions before implementing them ____Page No 109

3. Has the ability to work under pressure ____

4. Recognizes deficiencies and seeks help when appropriate __

Comments:

Specific Job Skills

1. Has appropriate knowledge of agriculture as it relates to his/her specific jobs ____

2. Has appropriate skills in operating farm equipment ____

3. Has appropriate skills in working with livestock ____

4. As new ideas or technologies are introduced, is able to learn and use them appropriately ____

5. Other (specify):

Communications (Written or Oral)

1. Keeps farm manager and/or coworkers informed of work progress ____

2. Reports necessary information to coworkers ____

3. Keeps and maintains all necessary written information that might be required by a specific

assignment ____

Coments:

IProductivity

1. Work completion is consistently high ____

2. Can be counted on for overtime or extra ____ effort as needed to meet the farm's goals ____

3. Makes effective use of resources available to accomplish all assignments, avoiding waste ____

Comments:

Interpersonal Relationships

1. Maintains a positive relationship with the management team ____

2. Maintains a positive relationship with other workers ____

3. Listens effectively ____

4. Is a team player and participates with others to accomplish the task at hand ____

Coments:

Organizational Skills

1. Performs tasks in an organized and efficient manner ____

Page No 110

2. Handles multiple activities simultaneously ____

3. Makes effective use of time (not merely busy) ____

Comments:

Safety

1. Performs activities in a safe manner ____

2. Understands and supports the farm safety program/policies ____

3. Encourages safety of others on a regular basis; recognizes unsafe working conditions; suggests

new safety standards as appropriate ____

Comments:

1. What creative contributions (new ideas, procedures, etc.) has the employee made to the farm in

the past year?

2. What new skills has the employee learned or shown improvement in this year?

3. What is the employee's greatest stren gth or area of contribution to the farm this year?

4. Where could there be improvement in the employee over the next year; what specific training

should be considered?

5. What changes would the employee like to see in the farming operation next year?

6. What are the employee's personal goals for the next year?

Employee Signature:

Supervisor Signature:

8. MIS DEPARTMENT

Page No 111

MANAGEMENT I NFORMATION SYSTEM department more than 100 hardware computers

in factory. He is responsible the maintenance and hardware related problem. Look after of these

computers.

Only available recourses are planned.

Software’s:

The software’s that are being used in Radial International are:

Inventory management

Fixed assets system

Salary system software

Piece rate related software

Engineering system

Attendance system

Security:

Login is provided to every user and password is provided, he can change according to his

convenience. In all organization we provide three types of login.

1. Home directory

2. Department share

3. Care drive

Home Directory:Home directory the user can build folders, files. He is only responsible for

compiling and security for this data.

Departmental share:The departments can share data with each other.

Care drive:In care drive the departments can read only. Write facility is not provided because

security purpose.Page No 112

Future plan:In future plan they will implement the E Commerce for update the status of the

garments. They also plan to implement ERP step by step. They are using SQL because this

provides more security and cheaper than database.

8.1 Number of Employee

In square group has more than 1500 employee is working.

8.2 Work Procedure of MIS

A management information system (MIS) is a system that provides information needed to

manage organizations effectively. Management information systems are regarded to be a subset

of the overall internal controls procedures in a business, which cover the application of people,

documents, technologies, and procedures used by management accountants to solve business

problems such as costing a product, service or a business-wide strategy. Management information

systems are distinct from regular information systems in that they are used to analyze other

information systems applied in operational activities in the organization. Academically, the term

is commonly used to refer to the group of information management methods tied to the

automation or support of human decision making,

8.3 Employee Information, Data Collecting System

Complete the firm general information section, which is titled "Record Number General

Information

Complete the firm experience section, which is titled "Record Number 2 - Category Of Work

Information and Firm Experience Information"

Although precertification is based on the employee projects, it is still necessary to provide the

firm's information. It must be shown that a firm has the equipment to do the job and it is important

to provide the rest of the information in the PDCSystem under general firm info, etc.

The "precertification areas" folder must include, at a minimum, a list of all categories that are

being applied for.

Complete the employee information section, which is titled "Record Number 3 - Personnel

Information And Experience"

Page No 113

A firm can not be precertified in any category unless that firm employs at least one person who is

precertified in that category.

Any employee who wants to be precertified must fill out the following four portions of the

questionnaire:

Employee general information,

Personal certifications

Categories

Projects

For individual names, enter the last name, first name and middle initial.

For telephone and fax numbers, enter the three-digit area code first, followed by the seven digit

number.

For employees, the sections "Categories" and "Projects" MUST contain identical information

pertaining to categories. Any categories that are listed under "experience by category" must also

be in the "Projects" section and vice versa.

Ten projects per employee may be submitted. Keep in mind that it is only necessary to meet the

minimum requirements for the categories. Space in TxDOT's database is limited to 60 characters

per line and five lines for project work descriptions. If you go over the limits of the database, you

will need to resubmit the information. You must be to the point and you may abbreviate where

possible.

8.4 Employee Information, Data Store

Page No 114

Ninth Brain Suite (NBS) provides you with an organized way to maintain records of your

company's important information. With NBS, you will have the ability to track company

demographics, employee statistics, awards, job titles with descriptions, and the main contacts

within each department easily and efficiently. Now, if an employee has a question about who is in

charge of a specific department, the answer to that question can be found quickly and accurately.

Do you have a constantly changing workforce? Do you find it difficult to keep track of all of your

employees' contact information? Ninth Brain Suite (NBS) provides an efficient way to store

important employee information, including home phone numbers, cell phone numbers, and e-mail

addresses. NBS allows you to keep all of your employee directory information in one place so

that your team knows where to look for the correct information. There is no better way than NBS

to maintain a secure web-based company data storage and employee directory.

9. COMPLIANCE DEPARTMENT

Page No 115

Compliance that draws from a bottom-up approach. The compliance is evolved by the worker-

owned enterprises themselves through a process that seeks to continuously improve labour

standards and social protection, looking at developmental aspects beyond the workplace and

towards the family and community. Such development compliance works to improve each

collective from its current level, rather than attempting to achieve a top-down absolute standard.

Social compliance believes that though well intentioned, monitoring a compliance code

introduced by international buyers for ensuring decent working conditions of the workers is

extremely difficult, if not impossible, when it comes to outsourcing practices. Therefore, the code

of conduct or other social standards often become tokenistic, since it is externally imposed and

not inherent to the existing work-culture.Carefully considering experiences of existing labels and

social compliance efforts, the development compliance proposed by is an inbuilt and organically

grown practice that seeks to ensure the wellbeing of each worker owned enterprise and its

members. It also seeks to improve each enterprise from its current level, rather than attempting to

achieve an absolute standard. The goals set by the people themselves, for labour standards

improvement, in the manner perceived by them are more achievable and honest, rather than lofty

external standards, which are very often proclaimed only to please international clients, much to

the detriment of the workers and sometimes the industry, since there are already several labels

existing. Furthermore, the efforts of development compliance are towards continuous

improvement rather than be restricted to merely achieving the minimum compliance an enterprise

has to fulfil; for instance, the compliance propagates goes beyond minimum wages, and the

minimum level of protection set by legal provisions. The development compliance standards

include a commitment for continuous learning & regular assessment of group performance,

enrolment of their children to school (no child labour), working at a common workplace, regular

contribution to membership, contribution to social security where possible and percentage share

of profit to collective. All the members of the worker-owned enterprises are self-employed and

shareholders of the enterprise; therefore entitled to the profits and benefits generated through the

work executed. Even in other small private enterprises that interacts with, the employer and

workers are supported to form self-help groups and initiate small savings. Over time, this ensures

that the individuals are able to break their cycle of indebtedness and become increasingly self-

reliant. Job orders are paid on the basis of quantity and quality of production as individuals within

the group. ensures that increasingly the income earned even for low skilled members within the

collective will go beyond the minimum wage prescribed, as their training investment and learning

will increase their productivity and skills levels. Though most often, the workers are reluctant to

engage in training as they see it as wasting productive time or irrelevant, this has gradually

Page No 116

changed since integrates skill development (technical, entrepreneurial, etc) with their ongoing

work. In terms of a work environment, all the worker-owned enterprises are supported to function

from common worksheds, equipped with basic facilities (including water, toilets, ventilation,

light,etc) and infrastructure. 'No child labour' is a non-negotiable adhered to in all the worker-

owned enterprises and members are supported to send their children to preschool/ school. The

experience so far has clearly indicated the impact of such a bottom-up development compliance.

has become a key partner, ensuring social compliance demanded by international buyers abroad.

For instance, companies such as GAP, H&M, etc have, declared as their main partner through

which hand embroidery has to be produced.

9.1 Social Compliance ProcurementSocial Audit

Working environment

Working hour

Social benefit

Worker benefit

Working Environment

Health safety

Personal protect equipment

ETP needed

Wastage must separate

Healthy and Safety

Revocation plan is needed

Fier alarm

Smoke ditector

P.A System

Fast Aid Facility

Water prospipe

9.2 Developing Compliance System

Developing, implementing and maintaining your ISO 9001 program can be crucial to the core

issues of a business. The focus is designed to help:

Satisfy customer requirements for compliance

Page No 117

Increase profits with more contracts

Save money through efficiency

But to do this you need to put a framework in place that spotlights performance and performance

improvement.

Get Management Support

To effectively build a program and meet the requirements, your organization should carry out a

strong process:

Management Decision and Commitment

Adequate Training and Evaluation

Compliance with Appropriate Standards

Audit and Registration

Once you’ve identified your company’s need for compliance, it is essential for top management

to get on board. Management can ensure that quality is documented, demonstrable, effective and

maintained.

Review and Maintain Standards

The appropriate personnel should then review the standards for their industry and work to meet

those requirements with organized documentation. Personnel can then develop, implement and

maintain a set of quality systems and procedures to satisfy the ISO 9001 requirements.

Plan and Develop Your Program

To build a program and meet the requirements, your organization can begin with effective

training for how to create well-defined processes. You will first want to learn how to identify the

objectives necessary to deliver top results. And then you will be ready to put those processes to

work.

Monitor and Improve Your Program

After you’ve implemented the ISO program, you should monitor and measure the processes

against your own objectives. You can build an effective management system that objectively

shows what you’re doing right and wrong. To learn how, you can take advantage of an Internal

Auditor skills class and learn how to bridge the gap and move toward continual performance

improvement.

Improve Process Performance

With ISO 9001 compliance you can improve the overall process performance of your business.

And this can save money while satisfying your customers and increasing pro

Page No 118

10. SUPPLY CHAIN / PROCUREMENT DEPAETMENT

10.1 Inventory Management In Store With Proper Producer

Inventory is definite by Gold rat and Cox as mean “Money the system invests in things that

intends to sell units of inventory that have value based on the total investment in the item, that

may be well above the original cost value is added to materials during the production process.

Inventory includes all the items that have been purchased for change and sell-through that are the

system at any given period of time, including materials waiting to be processed, work in process,

and finished goods.

10.2 How supply chain used in garments industry

Supply chain management is a cross-functional approach to manage the movement of raw

materials into an organization, certain aspects of the internal processing of materials into finished

goods, and then the movement of finished goods out of the organization toward the end-

consumer. As organizations strive to focus on core competencies and becoming more flexible,

they have reduced their ownership of raw materials sources and distribution channels. These

functions are increasingly being outsourced to other entities that can perform the activities better

or more cost effectively. The effect is to increase the number of organizations involved in

satisfying customer demand, while reducing management control of daily logistics operations.

Less control and more supply chain partners led to the creation of supply chain management

concepts. The purpose of supply chain management is to improve trust and collaboration among

supply chain partners, thus improving inventory visibility and improving inventory velocity.

Several models have been proposed for understanding the activities required to manage material

movements across organizational and functional boundaries. SCOR is a supply chain

management model promoted by the Supply Chain Management Council. Another model is the

SCM Model proposed by the Global Supply Chain Forum. Supply chain activities can be

grouped into strategic, tactical, and operational levels of activities.

10.3 Meaning of supply chain

Supply chain management (SCM) is the process of planning, implementing and controlling the

operations of the supply chain as efficiently as possible. Supply Chain Management spans all

movement and storage of raw materials, work-in-process inventory, and finished goods from

point-of-origin to point-of-consumption.

11. BGMEA

Page No 119

BGMEA (Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association) a recognized trade

body that represents export oriented garment manufacturers and garment exporters of the country.

Starting in the late 1970s as a negligible non-traditional sector with a narrow export-base, the

Readymade GARMENT INDUSTRY emerged as a promising foreign exchange earning sector of the

country by the year 1983. Since then, this sector has been acclaimed as the thrust sector of

Bangladesh economy. BGMEA had only 12 members at the time of its inception in 1977. It

promotes and protects the greater interest of the garment sector of Bangladesh and its members,

the number of which was about 3200 in July 2000 and it approximately 4800 in 2009.

BGMEA is dedicated to establishing and promoting contacts with foreign buyers, business and

trade associations, chambers and research organizations to develop the export base of apparels. It

also promotes trade negotiations in international market. The fundamental objective of BGMEA

is to establish a healthy business environment for a close and mutually beneficial relationship

between manufacturers, exporters and importers, thereby ensuring steady growth in the foreign

exchange earnings of the country. The organization is run by a 27-member board of directors

elected for a tenure of one year. The board is headed by a president who is assisted by four vice

presidents and a qualified team of officials. Core issues include human rights, and code of

conduct in the work place and environment. BGMEA plans to launch a program for

SA8000/WRAP compliance by all its member units within a fixed time frame so that all of them

are ready to face new challenges of liberalization and globalization.

Function and Activities of BGMEA:

Observer the whole country’s garments industry.

Make the roles and regulation for garments industry.

Make relation with abroad for much order.

Maintain the quality of product.

Through roles a regulation what must be followed the garments industry.

Make a payment chart for worker.

Make a crystal clear process for exporting product.

Make a standard in market price

Follow the activities of garments industry.As a part of the activities of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR), BGMEA has been playing a

socially responsible role for the RMG Sector and the country as well. We have been continuously

working for the reduction of poverty by providing the employment for the rural, semi-literate, and

unemployed people (especially women) of the country. Bangladesh Readymade Garment Sector

still lacks 25% skilled workers. This scenario upholds the average yearly increase demand of

Page No 120

workers in the RMG sector is about 5 (Five) lacs. Keeping it on the top priority BGMEA in

collaboration with several ministries of the Bangladesh Government and some Development

Partners started a number of HRD projects countrywide.

Objective:

The project intends to enhance competitiveness and production efficiency in the global apparel

market, producing the skill human resources to the sector. Therefore the main objective is to

retain our competitive edge in the world market in long run. The purpose of this project also

covers the rehabilitation and development of livelihood of especially the poverty stricken

inhabitants in the char areas, monga effected areas or the tribal people which mean to focus on

the people all over the country who require the training & employment in a true sense.

11.1 BGMEA’s Model Role in the field of Training & Development on Human

Resource:

To develop the skill human resources for RMG sector, BGMEA started its journey on August,

2007.Being stirred by the awareness of the corporate social responsibility (CSR) BGMEA

initially launched few programs in collaboration with the Department of Youth Development

(DYD), Bangladesh Army, another one is continuing by the financial support of DFID and

additional support provided by the Bureau of Manpower, Employment & Training (BMET) and

some programs have been persisting with the support of different govt. & non govt.

organizations.

Trade Facilitation:

The first & foremost duty of BGMEA is to protect & promote the interest of garment industry &

trade in Bangladesh. BGMEA issues Utilization Declaration (UD) & Utilization Permission (UP)

to members on be half of the Customs Department of the Government. It keeps its members

abreast on contemporary business trend & at the same time involved in creates & promotes

markets. BGMEA also supports the Government to formulate pro-growth policies for the sector

& pursues to deregulate controls over private sector.

Page No 121

Trade Fair & Mission:

BGMEA bridges interactions between the local exporters & international buyers by arranging

fairs in Bangladesh & participates with its members in international fairs. BGMEA regularly

organizes BATEXPO & CAFEXPO annually in Dhaka & Chittagong. BGMEA organizes trade

missions to explore the emerging markets for Bangladesh’s apparel products. BGMEA also

organizes seminars & dialogues for recommending on key policies for trade & industries.

WTO, Regional & Bilateral Trade Negotiations:

BGMEA actively participates in WTO trade negotiations with the government. BGMEA

appointed a lobbyist firm in the United States with its own resources for getting of duty free

access in the US market. BGMEA also has an advisor in Washington keeping the sector updated

on the latest developments in trade related areas of the US.

Human Resources Development:

BGMEA got itself involved in a number of human resources development projects, across the

country, with the support of the government & various development partners. Trainings are

provided among the underprivileged people on different machine operating courses free of cost

including free food & accommodation, &after successful completion of training they are placed

in different garment factories.

BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology (BIFT)

The BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology (BIFT) is a prime institute of Bangladesh aimed

to produce technically competent human resource for the RMG sector of the country. It was

established by BGMEA in 1999 and was affiliated to the National University, Bangladesh in

2001.The institute offers bachelor & master programs in apparel manufacturing & technology,

fashion design & technology ,knitwear manufacturing & technology,& a number of diploma

programs & six months of certificate courses pertinent to the need of the RMG sector of

Bangladesh.

Corporate Social Responsibilities:

BGMEA believes in its corporate social responsibilities, both in the industry & outside the

industry. Therefore with its own resources BGMEA has been engaged in several activities for the

garment workers’ welfare, as well as for the well being of the society & people.

Page No 122

11.2 Salary of Workers as Approved by Government and BGMEA

The official minimum wage has been set at 3,000 takas (£28) a month, up from 1662 takas in the

first raise since 2006. The new pay structure starts in November and has seven grades – the

highest pay fixed at 9,300 takas.

11.3 Number of Garments is in BGMEA

BGMEA started with only 12 members in 1978 & got registered in 1983 with membership

increased to 134.Presently BGMEA has more than 5000 member factories fetching more than

80% of the country’s total garment export earnings. Around 40%of BGMEA member factories

are knitwear & sweater manufacturers & the rest 60% are woven garment manufacturers.

12. BKMEA

12.1 Number of Garments are in BKMEA

BKMEA established in 1996 as a national trade body to represent solely the knitwear sector of

Bangladesh. BKMEA’ mission is to promote & enhance knitwear sector’s competitiveness,

productivity & profitability in the global market through support services to members, capacity

building of the sector & networking with all stakeholders. Starting with a minimum membership

base, now it is an association of more than 1600 knitwear manufacturers that represents the

largest export earning sector of the country.

12.2 Strength of knitwear sector of Bangladesh

01. The core strength of the knitwear sectors is the backward linkage. Currently BKEMA

members are supplying 90% of the knit fabric requirements of the sectors.

02. BKMEA has about 400 composite factories; besides the composite units many garments

have their own dyeing and finishing units. A separate dyeing and finishing industries also

has grown up over the time to support the sectors.

03. the entrepreneurs are using modern machineries and latest production technology

04. Bangladeshi knitwear is almost unbeatable in the price advantages.

Page No 123

05. Bangladesh provides not only cheaper labor force but they are also unparallel in the

stitching capability.

06. Bangladesh knitwear is exported to 100+ countries of the world. Ongoing programs

BKMEA has taken several initiatives with developments partners for capacity building of

the sector.

13. EXPORT PROMOTION BURUE

A National Export Promotion Agency under the Ministry of Commerce;

Reorganized by the promulgation of a Presidential Ordinance in 1977 as a semi autonomous

body;

Promote export trade and improve plan & policies helpful to the private sector.

Administered by a Board of Management (BOM) comprising members from both public &

private sectors.

Honorable Minister for Commerce is the ex-officio Chairman ; and

The Vice-Chairman is the chief executive of the Export Promotion Bureau

Export Promotion Bureau, the only government agency with a semi-autonomous entity, is

entrusted with the responsibility of undertaking measures related to export development of the

country. A Board of Management comprising members from both public & private sectors

manages it. The Hon’ble Commerce Minister, Govt. of the Peoples Republic of Bangladesh is the

Ex-Office Chairman of the Board. The other members of the Board are the Vice-Chairman, who

is also the CEO of EPB; representatives from the Ministries of Industries, Agriculture,

Commerce, Foreign Affairs, Textile & Jute, Fisheries & Livestock, CCI & E and Bangladesh

Bank, four members are appointed from the private sectors for a term of three years representing

Chambers, Trade & Industry.

13.1 Function and Activities.

In consultation with different Chambers of Commerce, Export Associations, Concerned

Ministries, Government Departments, Public & Private sector Agencies, Export Promotion

Bureau helps the govt. to formulate & implement export policy.

Assists & advises the exporters through organizing programmed relating to product

diversification, product development, product adaptation for the expansion of our export basket.

Organize marketing missions & buyer-seller meets in Co-operation with different exporters

association to find out new markets for exportable.

Page No 124

In a bid to disseminate export related information & to educate local exporters with the latest

technological know how in the area of product development & marketing, EPB regularly

organizes seminars, workshops, etc under National Export Training Programmed.

Maintains a Trade Information Center(TIC)along with a commercial library in which a large

number of recently published international Trade Directories, Statistical books, market Surveys &

Product Profiles are preserved for the use of the business community, exporters, researchers &

others.

For the wide publicity of the exportable products of Bangladesh, EPB publishers various colorful

& informative publications i.e. News Letter, Product Brochures, Posters, Export Directory,

Export Statistics etc.

Compile analysis & publishes books & periodicals on export statistics on the basis of Bill of

Export collected from different customs points of the country.

Organizes international Trade Fairs at home of both general & specialized nature with a view to

help local producers to display their products of export quality & compare those with the quality

of the products exhibited by the participants from abroad.

Participates in International Trade Fairs & organizes single Country Trade Shows abroad for

exploration of new market for Bangladeshi products & consolidation of existing ones.

To monitor quota of Textile products & to facilitate its export, a textile cell was created in EPB in

1985.From the very inception, Textile Cell extends all sorts of services to the readymade

garments exporters for smooth exporting of readymade garments to the USA & other quota &

non quota countries of the world.

13.2 What are the Documents Used by Export Promotion Bureau Required by

GMTS.

Following documents are needed for enrollment of a new export oriented readymade garments

industry with the Export Promotion Bureau:

Pay order for Tk. 2000/- (Two hundred) in favor of EPB.

Two copies passport size photographs.

Trade license (Renewed)

Export Registration Certificate (ERC) (renewed).

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Membership of Concern Association (renewed).

Bonded Ware house license (renewed).

Fire Service Licence (renewed).

Fire Policy (Renewed).

Tax Identification (TIN) Certificate.

Value Addition Tax (VAT) Certificate.

Memorandum of Article (It necessary).

Approval of Board of Investment.

Approved Building layout plan and structural design from concern govt. authority.

Group Insurance for the workers employed in the factory.

Following documents are needed for renewal of enrollment certificate:

Pay order Tk. 1000(one thousand) up to 31-12-2006 and Tk. 1500 (One thousand five hundred)

after said date.

Two copies passport size photographs

Trade licence (renewed)

Export    Registration Certificate (ERC) (renewed).

Membership of Concern Association (renewed).

Bonded Ware house licence (renewed).

Fire Service Licence (renewed).

Approved Building layout plan and structural design from concern govt. authority.

Workers Group Insurance for workers employed in the factory.

Following documents are needed for issuing GSP and SAPTA Certificates:

Export L.C/Sales contract/contract.

Page No 126

Back to Back L/C, connecting Back to Back /.C

Production Certificate issue from BTMA/Bill of Entry for import of Yarn.

Certificate of Origin from a Textiles Mills for supply of yarn/fabrics foreign chamber certificate

of origin for import of yarn.

G.P-2

Utilization Declaration.

Commercial Invoice, Packing list,

Bill of lading, Air way bill.

Truck Chalan.

Import Permit (IP) for EPZ firm and concern documents,

Bank Certificate, EPZ declaration

Shipping Bill .

I.D Card, Signature card to M.D or Proprietor

Copy of a EPB Registration certificate.

Following documents are needed to obtain Certificate of Origin (C.O):

Pay order Tk.100 (One hundred) in favors of EPB.

Invoice,

Packing list.

L/C

Back to Back L/C

Utilization Declaration.

Shipping Bill.

Bill of Lading/Airway Bill.

Page No 127

Import permit of BEPZA for EPZ firm and concern documents.

Chalan.

I.D card, Signature card to Managing Director or proprietor.

Copy of EPB Registration Certificate

14. BTMA

Bangladesh Textile Mills association (BTMA) is the national trade organization of Primary

Textile Industry i.e. Yarn Manufacturing, Fabric Manufacturing and Dyeing-Printing-Finishing

mills of the country under private sector. BTMA is registered in 1983.

14.1 Function and Activities of BTMA

Objectives

To promote and protect the trade, commerce and manufacturers of Bangladesh in general and of

the textile related trade in particular.

To collect and circulate statistics and to collect, classify and circulate information relating to the

trade, commerce and manufactures of its members.

To take all steps which may be necessary for promoting, supporting or opposing legislative and

other measures affecting the trade, commerce or manufactures of its members.

Page No 128

To make representations to the appropriate authorities on any matter connected with the trade,

commerce and manufactures of its members.

To advance and promote commercial and technical education connected with the trade and

commerce of its members.

To undertake special inquiries and initiate or support any action for securing the redress of

legitimate grievances connected with the trade or commerce of its members.

To engage in such activities for imports, exports of raw materials, spares and finished products

for the collective benefit of the members of the Association.

To organize such factories and workshops for selling or display centers centrally which may be of

common benefit for sections which might not be possible or feasible for individual members.

Regional Activities

SAARC Chamber of Commerce and Industry organized the 3rd SBLC regional cooperation. A

catalyst for socio-economic growth in South Asia was held in Sri-Lanka between SBLC is a

prestigious event of SAARC CCI. Head of the government of the Socialist Republic of Sri-

Lanka, leading politician, prominent speakers, scholars and elite corporate leaders from SAARC

region addressed on trade, investment, social security, HRM, Environment protection etc.. The

third SBLC focused mainly on the following issues:

Global financial crisis and its impact on South Asia.

Addressing food crisis through enhanced investment in agriculture.

Interactive dialogue between business leaders and triumphant entrepreneurs.

Trade facilitation: A fosterer of regional integration.

Trade in services: Prospects and challenges for regional integration.

Climate change & depleting water resources: emerging priority concerns for South Asia.

Culture and Tourism: A fosterer of socio-cultural interactions.

Creating synergies in the area of enhanced regional cooperation.

15. SHIPPING COMPANIS

Procedure of shipping companies:Page No 129

First need to meet with shipping companies

Asked for the time and table of shipping

Inform the buyer

Star Bill of Lading Program Bringing Technology and Shipping Paperwork Together

Star BOL program is capable of printing all of your Bill of Lading short form requirements to a

standard Laser Printer. It saves you Time and Money every time you use it. No more Expensive

Forms to purchase. No more hand writing, or typing to a form is needed. Just fill in the product

shipment info, select a trucking company, click on Print and you are done. There is a default

number of copies that you define. It cannot be any easier. Keeps a log of all your BOL's, for

research purposes, or to reprint, you can even Copy/New. (Creates a new BOL from a copy).

There are so many features to help you in this process that it is just better to download and try

them out for yourself. PLEASE NOTE: Ship North America Transportation is the default carrier

on this program. If you want to upgrade the software to add different carriers, there is a fee

involved.

Bill of Lading

The information on the Bill of Lading must be consistent with the information listed on the

Commercial Invoice, it must contain a complete and accurate description of the goods, and it

must be legible. Please clearly indicate the following: the type of clearance preferred by the

consignee, and the name of the Customs Broker (or their appointed agents) at the frontier port or

inland sufferance warehouse.

Commercial Invoice

You will need two copies of the Commercial Invoice, one must accompany the freight from the

point of pickup to the point of customs clearance, the other should be attached to the Bill of

Lading. This document is simply an invoice with a complete description of the goods being

shipped, along with the proper valuations and currency information.

Bangladesh Customs Invoice

This document should accompany the freight from the point of pickup to the point of customs

clearance. An additional copy should be attached to the Bill of Lading. If border clearance is

indicated on the Bill of Lading, please write "PARS Clearance" on the Bangladesh Customs

Invoice.

Page No 130

Certificate of Origin

The Certificate of Origin is used by the broker to determine the correct rate of duty under the

North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA). If this document is missing, the highest rates

may be applied to each consignment, and U.S. Customs may not allow the goods into the country

exporting goods.

Freight Forwarders

An international freight forwarder is an agent for the exporter in moving cargo to an overseas

destination. These agents are familiar with the import rules and regulations of foreign countries,

the export regulations of the U.S. government, the methods of shipping, and the documents

related to foreign trade. Export freight forwarders are licensed by the International Air Transport

Association (IATA) to handle air freight and the Federal Maritime Commission to handle ocean

freight.

Freight forwarders assist exporters in preparing price quotations by advising on freight costs, port

charges, consular fees, costs of special documentation, insurance costs, and their handling fees.

They recommend the packing methods that will protect the merchandise during transit or can

arrange to have the merchandise packed at the port or containerized. If the exporter prefers,

freight forwarders can reserve the necessay space on a vessel, aircraft, train, or truck. The cost for

their services is a legitimate export cost that should be included in the price charged to the

customer for pricing information.).

Once the order is ready for shipment, freight forwarders should be review all documents to ensure

that everything is in order. This is of particular importance with letter of credit payment terms.

They may also prepare the bill of lading and any

Packing

Exporters should be aware of the demands that international shipping puts on packaged goods.

Exporters should jeep four potential problems in mind when designing an export shipping crate:

breakage, moisture, pilferage and excess weight.

Generally, cargo is carried in containers, but sometimes it is still shipped as breakbulk cargo.

Besides the normal handling encountered in domestic transportation, a breakbulk shipment

transported by ocean freight may be loaded aboard vessels in a net or by a sling, conveyor, or

chute, that puts an added strain on the package. During the voyage, goods may be stacked on top Page No 131

of or come into violent contact with other goods. Overseas, handling facilities may be less

sophisticated than in the United States and the cargo could be dragged, pushed, rolled, or dropped

during unloading, while moving through customs, or in transit to the final destination.

Buyers are often familiar with the port systems overseas, so they will often specify packaging

requirements. If the buyer does not specify this, be sure the goods are prepared using these

guidelines:

Pack in strong containers, adequately sealed and filled when possible.

To provide proper bracing in the container, regardless of size, make sure the weight is

evenly distributed.

Goods should be palletized and when possible containerized.

One popular method of shipment is to use containers obtained from carriers or private leasing

companies. These containers vary in size, material, and construction and accommodate most

cargo, but they are best suited for standard package sizes and shapes. Also, refrigerated and liquid

bulk containers are usually readily available. Some containers are no more than semi-truck

trailers lifted off their wheels, placed on a vessel at the port of export and then transferred to

another set of wheels at the port of import.

Labeling

Specific marking and labeling is used on export shipping cartons and containers to:

Meet shipping regulations;

Ensure proper handling;

Conceal the identity of the contents;

Help receivers identify shipments; and

Insure compliance with environmental and safety standards.

Documentation

Exporters should seriously consider having the freight forwarder handle the formidable amount of

documentation that exporting requires as forwarders are specialists in this process. The following

documents are commonly used in exporting; but which of them are necessary in a particular

Page No 132

transaction depends on the requirements of the U.S. government and the government of the

importing country.

Air freight shipments are handled by air waybills, which can never be made in negotiable

form

A bill of lading is a contract between the owner of the goods and the carrier (as with

domestic shipments). For vessels, there are two types: a straight bill of lading which is

nonnegotiable and a negotiable or shipper's order bill of lading. The latter can be bought,

sold, or traded while the goods are in transit. The customer usually needs an original as

proof of ownership to take possession of the goods for a Short Form Straight Bill of

Lading and  for a Liner Bill of Lading).

A commercial invoice is a bill for the goods from the seller to the buyer. These invoices

are often used by governments to determine the true value of goods when assessing

customs duties. Governments that use the commercial invoice to control imports will

often specify its form, content, number of copies, language to be used, and other

characteristics

16. C & F

The TMF Group is the world's leading provider of independent global administrative services,

including Process Agent services. We provide an efficient, standardised and professional service

through our Group network of 86 company-owned offices in 65 countries, including Miami, New

york, Jersey, London, Amsterdam, Vienna, Brussels, Warsaw, Tel-Aviv, Frankfurt, Kuala

Lumpur, Hong Kong, Singapore, Tokyo and Sydney.

Our Services

The TMF Group operate an established process agent administration service for use by overseas

clients who have entered into legal agreements governed by a foreign jurisdiction, and

accordingly need to formally appoint a local agent to accept service of process.

Our appointment as agent covers:

• Service of documents relating to actions begun or ongoing in the local Courts and/or arbitration

proceedings being carried out

Page No 133

• Notices under contracts where an independent party is needed, in some cases on behalf of more

than one party

• Notices on behalf of overseas companies with or without a locally registered branch

Service Features and Benefits

• Cost Efficiency and Risk Management - centralized administration system with robust

processes and controls

17. BANK

17.1 B/B L/C Opening Procedure in Bank.

Application Format of B/B L/C to the Bank are as Follows.

July28, 2010.

To

The manager (Import).

L/C issuing bank name & address.

Ref: Account name ……… holding A/C No………. with your branch.

Sub: Request for opening a back to back L/C against export L/C number…… received by buyer.

Dear Sir,

We would like to inform you that please open B/B L/C for US$ against Master L/C to enable we

import fabric to execute the stipulated in the said Master L/C.

Page No 134

You are hereby authorized to keep the aforesaid original Master L/C #......... as lien …….to cover

finances involved in the opening back to back L/C.

Thanks,

Applicant name

Signature & designation.

Encl:

Contract.

Banks L/C application duly filled-up.

Insurance cover note (if applicable)

Import form(if applicable)

L.C.A (Letter of credit authorization form)

17.2 Idea About Irrevocable M L/C

Constitute a definite undertaking of the issuing bank, provided that the stipulated documents are

presented, the terms and conditions of the credit are complied with:

The full name of L/C is IRREVOCABLE LETTER OF CREDIT which means once it is issued

by the bank for the buyer and received and accepted by beneficiary(the seller), it cannot be

canceled or withdrawn by the buyer or the opening bank, unless with the consent of the

beneficiary. In short, once the buyer opens the L/C from his bank to cover the goods he has

purchased, he will have to pay for the goods when the seller ships the goods exactly a per the

terms stipulated in the L/C. Therefore , as far as the seller is concerned, the sooner he has the L/C

on L/CS can be opened in many ways, but in essence ,it is a promise the buyers bank make to the

supplier, to pay him when he does certain things with evidence to prove. There fore when the

suppliers receives an L/C he must read the terms carefully to make sure he is capable of fulfilling

them all exactly as they are written.

Page No 135

17.3 Idea About Different L/C

Letter of credit is abbreviated as L/C means a form issued by bank indicating that the payment.

Its play a vital roles in import and export business. There are different kinds of L/C such as-

1) Revocable L/C.

2) Irrevocable L/C.

3) Confirmed L/C.

4) Back to Back L/C.

5) Revolving L/C.

6) Stand by L/C.

7) Usance L/C.

8) Sight L/C.

9) Red clause L/C.

10) Transferable or divisible L/C.

Irrevocable letter of credit:

Constitute a definite undertaking of the issuing bank, provided that the stipulated documents are

presented, the terms and conditions of the credit are complied with:

The full name of L/C is IRREVOCABLE LETTER OF CREDIT which means once it is issued

by the bank for the buyer and received and accepted by beneficiary(the seller), it cannot be

canceled or withdrawn by the buyer or the opening bank, unless with the consent of the

beneficiary. In short, once the buyer opens the L/C from his bank to cover the goods he has

purchased, he will have to pay for the goods when the seller ships the goods exactly a per the

terms stipulated in the L/C. Therefore , as far as the seller is concerned, the sooner he has the L/C

on L/CS can be opened in many ways, but in essence ,it is a promise the buyers bank make to the

supplier, to pay him when he does certain things with evidence to prove. There fore when the

suppliers receives an L/C he must read the terms carefully to make sure he is capable of fulfilling

them all exactly as they are written.

Confirmed letter of credit:

Page No 136

This is such a credit for which exporter’s bank gives all sort of surety for the advance of payment.

Back to Back L/C:

Which L/C issued against the original Master L/C is called B/B L/. A back to back L/C is a letter

of credit issued for the account of a buyer, who is already holding an Master L/C in his or her

favor. The back to back L/C is issued in favor of the supplier to import raw materials required to

produce the item meant for export as stipulated in the credit being held by the buyer.

Sight L/C:

It means when the shipper ships the goods covered by the L/C, and presents the documents to the

bank for negotiation. When the documents are send by thr negotiating bank to the L/C opening

bank, the L/C opening bank will effect payment to the negotiating bank immediately. Such L/Cs

usually say “AT SIGHT” which means “pay when the bank sees the documents”.

Revolving L/C:

It means that the beneficiary can draw money from such L/C up to the amount specified by

means of documents, and after drawing, the amount draw will automatically be replenished and is

available for another drawing and another drawing, and so on.

Revolving L/Cs are good for the buyer and the supplier to cover purchase made regularly as one

L/C can be used many times saving a lot of paper work as well as L/C opening charges at both

ends.

Transferable or Divisible L/C:

A transferable credit is a credit under which the beneficiary has the right to request the bank

called upon to effect payment or acceptance or any bank entitled to effect negotiation to make the

credit available in whole or in part to one or more other parties(second beneficiaries).

Idea About at Sight at L/C

It means when the shipper ships the goods covered by the L/C, and presents the documents to the

bank for negotiation. When the documents are send by thr negotiating bank to the L/C opening

bank, the L/C opening bank will effect payment to the negotiating bank immediately. Such L/Cs

usually say “AT SIGHT” which means “pay when the bank sees the documents”.

Page No 137

17.4 Forwarding & Consolidation

Export Procedure

· Registration’ Stage.

· Shipment Stage.

· Pre-shipment Stage

· Post-shipment Stage.

Registration Stages

The exporter is required -to register his organisation with a number of institutions and authorities,

which directly or indirectly

help him in the smooth conduct of export, trade. The

registration stage includes: -

a. Registration of the Organisation: - The form of organisation selected by the exporter must. Be

registered under the

appropriate Act of. the country.

· A joint stock company under the Companies Act, 1956.;

· A partnership firm under the Indian Partnership Act, 1932.;

· A sale trader should seek permission from the local authorities, as required.

b. Opening-Bank Account: - The’ exporter should open a current account in the name of the firm or

company with a commercial

bank which is authorised by the Reserve Bank

of India (RBI) to deal in foreign exchange. Such bank also serves as a source of pre-shipment and

post-shipment finance for the

exporter.

c. Obtaining Importer-Exporter Code Number (lEC No.): - Prior to 1.1.1997, it was obligatory for

every exporter to obtain CNX

number from the RBI. However, since then, IEC number issued by the Director General for

Foreign Trade (DGFT) has replaced

the CNX number. The

application form for obtaining IEC number should be accompanied by fee of Rs. 1000.

d. Obtaining Permanent Account Number- (PAN): Export income is subject to a number of

exemptions and deductions under

different sections of the Income Tax Act. For claiming such exemptions and deductions, the

Page No 138

exporter should register his

organisation with the Income Tax Authorities and obtain the Permanent Account Number (PAN).

e. Obtaining Sales Tax Number: - Exportable goods are exempted from sales tax, provided, the

‘exporter or his firm is registered

with the Sales Tax Authorities. , For this purpose, the exporter is required to make an application

in the prescribed form to the’

Sales Tax Office (STO) in whose jurisdiction his {exporter’s). Office is situated f. Registration

with, Export Promotion Council

(EPC) :: It is obligatory for every exporter to ,register with the

appropriate Export Promotion Council (EPC) and obtain the ‘Registration-cum-Membership

Certificate’ (RCMC). The benefits

provided in the current EXIM Policy are extended only to the registered exporters having valid

RCMC.

g. Registration with ECGC: - The exporter should also register with the Export Credit and

Guarantee Corporation of India (ECGC)

in order to secure overseas payments

against political and commercial risks. It also helps the exporters in obtaining the financial

assistance from commercial banks

and other financial institutions.

h. Registration with other Authorities: - The exporter should also register with various other

authorities, such as: -

· Federation of Indian Export Organisation (FIEO),· Indian Trade Promotion Organisation

(ITPO), · Chambers of Commerce

(COC), · Productivity Councils, etc.

Shipment Stages

Export, cargo can be exported to the overseas buyer by sea, air or land. However, shipment by

sea is the most popular and

generally resorted to, as it is comparatively cheaper. Besides, the ship’s capacity is far greater

than other modes of

transportation. Nevertheless,transportation by air is utilized for export of expensive items like,

diamonds, gold, etc. The

shipment stage includes the following steps

a. Reservation of Shipping Space: - Once the export contract is finalised, the I exporter reserves

the required space in the vessel

Page No 139

for shipment. On accepting the exporter’s request,

the shipping company issues a Shipping Order. The original copy of the shipping order as given

to the exporter and the duplicate

instruction by the shipping company to the commanding officer of the ship that the goods as per

the details given should be

received on board.

b. Arrangement of Internal Transportation up to the Port of Shipment :-The exporter makes

necessary arrangements for

transportation of goods to the port either by road or railways. On loading goods into the railway

wagon, the railway authorities

issue a ‘Railway Receipt’, which may be either ‘freight paid’ or ‘freight to pay’. It serves as a

title to the goods. The exporter

doses the railway receipt in favour of his agent to enable him to take delivery of the goods at

the port of shipment.

c. Preparation and Processing of Shipping Documents :- As the goods reaches the port of

shipment, the exporter should issue

detailed instructions to the C&F agent for the

shipment of cargo along with a complete set of the documents listed below:-

· Letter of Credit along with the export contract or

export order.

· Commercial Invoice (2 copies)

· Packing List or Packing Note.

· Certificate of Origin.

· GR Form (original and duplicate)

· ARE-I Form.

· Certificate of Inspection, where necessary (original

copy)

· Marine Insurance Policy.

d. Customs Clearance: - The cargo must be cleared from the Customs before it is loaded on the

ship. For this, the above

mentioned documents, along with five copies of shipping bill, are to be submitted to the Customs

Appraiser at the Customs

House. The Customs Appraiser

ensures that all the formalities relating to exchange control, quality control, pre-shipment

Page No 140

inspection and licensing have been

complied with by the exporter. After verification, all

documents, except the original GR, original copy of Shipping Bill and one copy of Commercial

Invoice, are returned to the C&F

agent.

e. Obtaining ‘Carting Order’ from the Port Trust Authorities: - The C&F agent, then,approaches

the Superintendent of the

concerned Port Trust for obtaining the ‘Carting Order’

for moving the cargo inside the dock. After obtaining the Carting Order, the cargo is physically

moved into the port area and

stored in the appropriate shed.

18. YARN SUPPLIER

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19. CHITTAGONG PORT

The Port of Chittagong is Bangladesh’s major port on the Indian Ocean. Lying about 12 miles

inland from the mouth of the Karnaphuli River, the Port of Chittagong is an important

communications center for the country.

19.1 Area of Chittagong PortThe Port of Chittagong is managed by the Chittagong Port Authority (CPA). The CPA owns and

operates ten berths for general cargo and six berths for containerized cargo. It also manages an oil

jetty, a grain silo jetty, and several other specialized jetties. In 2007, the Port of Chittagong

welcomed almost two thousand vessels carrying almost 28 million tons of cargo and almost one

million TEUs of containerized cargo.

The Port of Chittagong contains nine transit sheds covering 52 thousand square meters, seven

warehouses covering 26.7 thousand square meters, two car sheds covering five thousand square

meters, and open yards of 90 thousand square meters. Six additional warehouses outside the port

area cover 90 thousand square meters, and additional open yards of 200 thousand square meters

are available.

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The Port of Chittagong berths have holding capacity for almost 10 thousand TEUs of

containerized cargo and 18 storage yards covering over 200 thousand square meters. The

Chittagong Container Terminal can handle 16 thousand TEUs and has 150 thousand square

meters of container storage yard. The container quays offer 210 reefer points.

19.2 Capacity of Container Handling Both Import and Export Per Day

Containers Handled

Calender Year Chittagong

Port(TEUs)

Cargo (Tones) Dhaka ICD

(TEUs)

Cargo (Tones)

2004 6,88,771 65,55,885 68,567 4,36,088

2005 7,83,353 76,95,431 78,660 4,83,440

2006 8,76,186 85,17,130 77,567 3,25,305

2007 9,58,020 96,06,032 80,714 3,31,216

2008 10,69,999 102,16,055 82,458 4,34,628

19.3 Number of Sailing of Feeder Vessel Per day

Vessels Handled

Calender Year No. of Vessels

2004 1764

2005 1892

2006 1957

2007 1945

2008 2099

VESSELS HANDLING AT CHITTAGONG PORT

DURING THE FISCAL YEAR 2007-2008

Page No 143

VESSELS JUL'07 AUG'07 SEP'07OCT'07 NOV'07 DEC'07

S/TOTAL JAN'08 FEB'08 MAR'08 APR'08 MAY'08

JUN'08 S/TOTAL G/TOTAL%

CALLED VESSELS 162 161 177 189 184 185 1058 190 185 216

188 205 177 1161 2219

SAILED VESSELS 149 145 163 175 173 180 985 176 180 197

186 177 173 1089 2074

Cont.Called Vessel 80 79 75 82 87 88 491 86 79 79

79 90 77 490 981

Cont.Sailed Vessel 75 79 74 84 81 88 481 87 79 75

85 87 78 491 972

LIGHTER VESSELS 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0

19.4 Different Sizes of Containers

Standard containers.

High-cube containers.

Hard-top containers.

Open-top containers.

Flat racks.

Platforms (plats).

Ventilated containers.

Insulated and refrigerated containers.

Bulk containers.

Tank containers

19.5 Different Kinds of Containers

Page No 144

ISO standard:

There are five common standard lengths, 20-ft (6.1 m), 40-ft (12.2 m), 45-ft (13.7 m), 48-ft (14.6

m), and 53-ft (16.2 m). United States domestic standard containers are generally 48 ft (15 m) and

53-ft (rail and truck). Container capacity is often expressed in twenty-foot equivalent units (TEU,

or sometimes teu). An equivalent unit is a measure of containerized cargo capacity equal to one

standard 20 ft (length) × 8 ft (width) container. As this is an approximate measure, the height of

the box is not considered, for instance the 9 ft 6 in (2.9 m) High cube and the 4-ft 3-in (1.3 m)

half height 20 ft (6.1 m) containers are also called one TEU.

The maximum gross mass for a 20 ft (6.1 m) dry cargo container is 24,000 kg, and for a 40-ft

(including the 2.87 m (9 ft 6 in) high cube container), it is 30,480 kg. Allowing for the tare mass

of the container, the maximum payload mass is therefore reduced to approximately 22,000 kg for

20 ft (6.1 m), and 27,000 kg for 40 ft (12 m) containers.

20. INSURANCE COMPANY

The functions of Insurance will give you an idea on how to go ahead with the approach of

insurance and what type of insurance to choose. In a layman's words, insurance means, ‘a guard

against pecuniary loss arising on the happening of an unforeseen event’. In developing

economies, the insurance sector still holds a lot of potential which can be tapped. Majority of the

people in the developing countries remains unaware of the functions and benefits of insurance

and it is for this reason that the insurance sector is still to grow.

Tangible or intangible – an individual can insure anything! Be it a house, car, factory, or the

voice of a singer, leg of a footballer, and the hand of an author.....etc. It is possible to insure all

these as they have the possibility of becoming non functional by any disaster or an accident.

Basic functions of Insurance

1.Primary Functions

2.Secondary Functions

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3.Other Functions

Primary functions of insurance

Providing protection – The elementary purpose of insurance is to allow security against future

risk, accidents and uncertainty. Insurance cannot arrest the risk from taking place, but can for

sure allow for the losses arising with the risk. Insurance is in reality a protective cover against

economic loss, by apportioning the risk with others.

Collective risk bearing – Insurance is an instrument to share the financial loss. It is a medium

through which few losses are divided among larger number of people. All the insured add the

premiums towards a fund and out of which the persons facing a specific risk is paid.

Evaluating risk – Insurance fixes the likely volume of risk by assessing diverse factors that

give rise to risk. Risk is the basis for ascertaining the premium rate as well.

Provide Certainty – Insurance is a device, which assists in changing uncertainty to certainty.

Secondary functions of insurance

Preventing losses – Insurance warns individuals and businessmen to embrace appropriate

device to prevent unfortunate aftermaths of risk by observing safety instructions; installation of

automatic sparkler or alarm systems, etc.

Covering larger risks with small capital – Insurance assuages the businessmen from security

investments. This is done by paying small amount of premium against larger risks and dubiety.

Helps in the development of larger industries – Insurance provides an opportunity to

develop to those larger industries which have more risks in their setting up.

20.1 Insurance Policy for Export Garments from Bangladesh to Other

Countries

Insurance company policy for all export garments from Bangladesh to other countries. There are

three types of insurance policy for export garments such as-

Page No 146

01. ICC-A.

For all export risk coverage.

02. ICC-B.

For fire risk coverage.

03. ICC-C.

When ship is damage under the water that time this quality policy undertaken risk coverage.

ICC-A= 50%-10% =

+ 0.05%=

ICC-B= 30%-10%=

+.05%=

ICC-C= 25%-10% =

+.05%=

Mainly % depend on the value of L/C

20.2 What are the Papers Issued by Insurance Company

Copy of Master L/C

copy of PI, Commercial Invoice

Packing list, Cartoon list.

Bill of lading

Bill of exchange.

And all export related papers issued by insurance company policy.

20.3 Payment Procedure of Against any Claim

At first the company investigation the causes why the problem is occurred it is their fault. After

checking of all activities if the causes are positive they will payment on the other hand the result

is negative they will not payment.

Page No 147

21. CONCLUSION

At last I want to like give thanks my honorable teacher and the company for giving me great

opportunity of learning. This Internship program will help me my future challengeable life. I try

my best to make this project enriched with lots of apparel related documents. SB Group is really

a good factory for me because every person of their so much helpful and give me the proper

methods of practical learning. I hope our country will be top garments exporter in the world in

future.

I think this accurate acquire knowledge will be helpful to built up my career.

Page No 148

22. BIBLIOGRAPHY

1. M.A. Razzaque Garment & Textile Merchandising 2nd Edition, Gronthonir Publishers.

2. Engr. A.J.S.M.Khaled Work study & Productivity Improvement 1st Edition, Books Fair

Publishers.

3.Professor J E Mcintyre Textile Terms and Definition 10TH Edition, Rupok Publishers.

4. M.A. Kashem Garments & Technology 9th Editon, Gronthonir Publishers.

5. Engr. A.J.S.M. Khaled Quality Management in Apparel Industry 2nd Editon, Gronthonir

Publishers.

7. Tazammol hossain Garments Merchandising 3rd Editon, Galaxy Publishers.

8. Prof. Khalikujjaman Banking and Insurance 10th Editon, Diganta Publishers.

9. SBK Ltd.

11. Library of SMUCT

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