INOA Techniques

TECHNICAL GUIDE

100 YEARS OF COLOUR INNOVATION

2009

A NEW ERA BEGINS

1929

ImEDIa

1st oxidative hair colour

RG ColoUR

1st direct hair colour

1952 1978

majIREl

1st conditioning hair colour

1909

loRal IS CREaTED

1st harmless hair colour

1990

DIaColoR

1st tone on tone hair colour

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100% AMMONIA-FREE PERmaNENT ColoUR DESIGNED FoR OPTIMISED HAIR QUALITY* aND SCALP COMFORT

INNOVATIONNO AMMONIA

*Helps maintain the hairs natural level of lipids

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BEFORE APPLICATION AFTER APPLICATION

Colorantammonia

BEFORE THERE WAS... CLASSIC PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

THE PRESENCE OF AMMONIA oDoUR RISK oF SCalP DISComFoRT, STINGING

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Colorantalkaline agent

BEFORE APPLICATION AFTER APPLICATION

an unprecedented technological breakthrough with oil base technology that optimises the effectiveness of the coloration system

TODAY THERE IS... THE REVOLUTIONARY OIL DELIVERY SYSTEM**

100% AMMONIA-FREE PERMANENT COLOUR oDoURlESS oPTImISED SCalP ComFoRT oPTImISED RESPECT FoR THE HaIR*

*Helps maintain the hairs natural level of lipids **oDS: oil Delivery System

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HAIR COLORANT100% ammoNIa-FREE

Colour concentrate 6 x 8g tubes 3 applications

Part 1 of the oDS oil base for the colour pigments 1000 ml 22 applications

OLEO GEL

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Part 2 of the oDS 1st oxydant to contain oil to activate the oDS technology 1000 ml (20 or 30 vol.) 16 applications

Post colour shampoo designed to emulsify oil based coloration and enhance the colour result 1500 ml 150 applications

RICH OxYDANT

INOA POST SHAMPOO

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3 REVOLUTIONARY BENEFITS

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1UNPRECEDENTED COMFORT

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OPTIMISED RESPECT FOR THE HAIR*

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UNLIMITED COLOUR RESULTS**

*Helps maintain the hairs natural level of lipids **Intermixable shades able to lighten up to 3 levels

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True and predictable shades: neutralising cool shades, vibrant and luminous warm shades lightens up to 3 levels Exceptionally even coverage from root to tip Perfect coverage of white hair

UNLIMITED COLOUR RESULTS FOR ULTIMATE CREATIVITY

Natural basic

Gold

Copper10

Red/ mahogany

Warm brown/ Warm beige

Cool brown/ Cool beige

Burgundy/ Iridescent

ash11

A NEW TECHNICal aPPRoaCH TO PER MANENT HAIR COLOUR

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A SKIN ALLERGY

TEST MUST BE CARRIED OUT

(see page 30)

PREPARATION1

Step 1. 40g Oleo GelSlide the INoa mixing Tool

up to the first line (1 oleo gel)

and fill to the top with 40g oleo

Gel, levelling with a whisk.

IMPORTANT: Do not empty

the Oleo Gel into the mixing

bowl at this stage.

Step 2. Add 60g Rich OxydantSlide the INoa mixing Tool

up to the second line

(1 oxydant) and fill to the top

with 60g Rich oxydant, levelling

with a whisk.

IMPORTANT: Never replace

the Rich Oxydant with

another oxydant.

40g oleo Gel {40g oleo Gel {

60g Rich oxydant {

TO PREPARE 1 APPLICATION

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Step 3. Empty contents and add 2 x 8g colorantEmpty the oleo Gel and Rich oxydant into a mixing bowl and add 2 x 8g tubes of colorant. mix together with a whisk until a smooth, creamy texture is obtained.

IMPORTANT: Ensure that all 8g are squeezed from both tubes.

TO PREPARE A 1/2 DOSEUse the reverse of the INoa mixing Tool to measure 20g oleo Gel + 30g Rich oxydant and add 1 x 8g tube of colorant.

IMPORTANT: RUBILANE & DM5 TECHNICAL RULES

FIRST APPLICATION: FOR NEW AND ExISTING CLIENTSFor optimal results on the first application of an INoa red or copper shade with Rubilane or Dm5, you are recommended to take the product through immediately (TTI) regardless of how much the colour has faded on the lengths and ends.

WHITE HAIR COVERAGE:Thanks to their intensity, INoa red or copper shades with Rubilane and Dm5 cover white hair perfectly without mixing. on 0% to 100% white hair apply your chosen shade without mixing with a Natural Basic.

TIP: FOR BEST RESULTS, DM5 SHOULD NOT BE MIxED WITH ANY OTHER SHADE

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APPLICATION AND DEVELOPMENT

2

apply to the root area and if necessary the lengths and ends (see Colouring lengths and Ends Techniques). Due to its creamy texture the product adheres well to the hair.

DEVEloPmENT TImE:

35 min

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Begin by carrying out a gentle, dry emulsification (without water) to ensure that all the colour is loose on the hair do no massage the scalp directly.

Finish with the specific shampoo: INOA Post

once the colour has been completely loosened on the hair, continue to emulsify by adding a little water. After a few moments, rinse thoroughly until water runs clear.

To be completed at the backwash

REMOVAL AND RINSING3

To be completed at the styling station

For the removal of INoa there is a specific technique

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4UP TO

70 %

apply your chosen shade and mix 2 x tubes of the selected shade with 40g oleo Gel + 60g Rich oxydant 20 or 30 vol.

WHITE HAIR COVERAGE

DEVEloPmENT TImE:

35 min

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FROM

70 %TO

100 %

mix 1 tube of your chosen shade + 1 tube of a Natural Basic shade on the same level + 40g oleo Gel + 60g Rich oxydant 20 vol.

RUBILANE & DM5:Thanks to their intensity, INoa red or copper shades with Rubilane and Dm5 cover white hair perfectly without mixing. on 0% to 100% white hair apply your chosen shade without mixing with a Natural Basic.

DEVEloPmENT TImE:

35 min 19

ZoNE 2

ZoNE 1

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For all lengths and ends techniques do not add water.

COLOURING LENGTHS AND ENDS TECHNIQUES

CHaNGE oF ColoUR (Take Through Immediately) apply your chosen shade to the root area (ZoNE 1)

Without adding water, take through immediately to the lengths and ends (ZoNE 2)

Change of colour

DEVEloPmENT TImE:

35 min

20

ZoNE 2

ZoNE 1

ZoNE 2

ZoNE 1

ColoUR REFRESH (Take Through)

No ColoUR CHaNGE (Take Through for 5 min)

apply your chosen shade to the root area (ZoNE 1)

Without adding water, take through to the lengths and ends (ZoNE 2)

apply your chosen shade to the root area (ZoNE 1)

Without adding water, take through to the lengths and ends (ZoNE 2)

DEVEloPmENT TImE:

DEVEloPmENT TImE:

DEVEloPmENT TImE:

DEVEloPmENT TImE:

20 min

30 min

15 min

5 min

Note: When a white hair coverage technique is applied to the roots, take through with the reflect shade only

Colour refresh

No colour change

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6FoR VIRGIN HaIR

mix your chosen shade with 40g oleo Gel + 60g Rich oxydant 20 or 30 vol. and apply to the lengths and ends 2cm away from the scalp (ZoNE 2)

mix a fresh application of your chosen shade with 40g oleo Gel + 60g Rich oxydant 20 or 30 vol. and apply to the root area (ZoNE 1)

DEVEloPmENT TImE:

35 min

Virgin Hair

VIRGIN HAIR APPLICATION

ZoNE 2ZoNE 1

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loNG REGRoWTH

mix your chosen shade with 40g oleo Gel + 60g Rich oxydant 20 or 30 vol. and apply to the mid-lengths, 2cm away from the scalp (ZoNE 2)

mix a fresh application of your chosen shade with 40g oleo Gel + 60g Rich oxydant 20 or 30 vol. and apply to the root area (ZoNE 1)

Take through to the lengths and ends using the appropriate lengths and ends technique

DEVEloPmENT TImE:

35 min

ZoNE 2long regrowth

ZoNE 1

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COLOUR IN7

For use when darkening more than 2 levels or darkening sensitised hair.

Choose relevant Colour Phase In (CPI) shade from the diagram and mix with 40g oleo Gel + 60g Rich oxydant 20 vol.

apply to lightened or sensitised areas of the hair

allow to develop for between 3 15 minutes depending on the desired undercolour required

Rinse, shampoo and completely dry the hair

apply your chosen shade to the roots

Take Through Immediately (TTI)

ColoUR PHaSE IN (CPI) CHaRT

Target Cool Time Warm Undercoat level (ash, Beige, (Copper, Gold) mahogany, Red)

9 Very light Blonde 3 Pale Yellow 8 light Blonde 8.3 8.34 Yellow 7 Blonde 15 Yellow orange 6 Darkest Blonde 3 orange 5 light Brown 6.34 6.46 orange Red 4 Brown 15 Red 3 Dark Brown 3 Dark Red 2 Darkest Brown 4.56 4.56 Very Dark Red 1 Black 15 Darkest Red

ColoUR PHaSE IN (CPI)

To prepare the hair for colouring

To complete the colour service

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For use on highlighted or highly sensitised hair.

apply your chosen shade to the roots

Choose the relevant Colour Balance In (CBI) shade from the diagram*

mix your chosen shade and Colour Balance In (CBI) shade with 40g oleo Gel + 60g Rich oxydant 20 or 30 vol.

apply to the lightened lengths and ends

Take Through Immediately (TTI)

* If your chosen shade is also the CBI shade use the corresponding ,3 shade

ColoUR BalaNCE IN (CBI) CHaRT

9 Very light Blonde 9.3 9.3 8.34 Pale Yellow 8 light Blonde 8.3 8.3 8.34 Yellow 7 Blonde 7.3 7.43 Yellow orange 6 Darkest Blonde 6.3 6.34 6.45/6.46 orange 5 light Brown 5.3 5.4 5.56 orange Red 4 Brown 4.3 4.45/4.65 Red 3 Dark Brown 4.3 4.45/4.65 Dark Red

Cool Warm Target Undercoat level ash Beige Gold, Red Copper mahogany

ColoUR BalaNCE IN (CBI)

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COLOUR OUT8ClEaNSE

Begin the application at the nape of the neck and apply quickly to the lengths and ends, emulsifying continuously

after the development time: rinse, shampoo and dry the hair. apply the desired shade and take through immediately (TTI)

mix 1 sachet of Efassor + 60ml of very hot water, apply at the backwash on dry hair with a sponge

To eliminate an incompatible reflect.

DEVEloPmENT TImE:

5 to 20 min 26

DEEP ClEaNSE

mix 1 sachet of Efassor + 75ml loral Professionnel Cream oxydant 20 or 30 vol.

after the development time: rinse, shampoo and dry the hair. apply your chosen shade and take through immediately (TTI)

To deep cleanse previously lightened hair or to lighten previously coloured hair to create a final undercoat.

apply at the styling station with a brush, using cotton wool to protect the natural hair

lighten until the desired undercoat is achieved

DEVEloPmENT TImE:

up to 50 min 27

INOA SKIN ALLERGY TEST9

PREPaRaTIoN measure 1 part of INOA colorant using the skin allergy test spoon and use the spatula to scrape the contents into a non-metallic mixing bowl

measure 2.5 parts of INOA Oleo Gel using the skin allergy test spoon and use the spatula to scrape the contents into a non-metallic mixing bowl

Mix the 2 products thoroughly in a non-metallic bowl with the spatula

ImPoRTaNT: a HaIR ColoRaNT CaN CaUSE aN allERGIC REaCTIoN. a SKIN allERGY TEST mUST BE ComPlETED BEFoRE EaCH aPPlICaTIoN oF aNY HaIR ColoRaNT. FolloW THE SaFETY INSTRUCTIoNS oN THE lEaFlET.

Wear suitable disposable gloves during the preparation, application and rinsing of the product28

aPPlICaTIoN

Remove earings

Behind the ear and using a cotton bud apply enough of the mixture to cover an area 1-2 cm

Re-apply allowing it to dry between applications

leave for 48 hours without washing, covering or touching

If during this period you or your clients notice any abnormal reaction such as intense itching, redness or swelling around the test area DO NOT APPLY THE COLORANT.

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FAQ101. What are the 3 components of INOA and what do they contain?

HaIR ColoRaNT Concentrated colorants

alkaline agent

olEo GEl mineral oil (Part 1 of the oil Delivery System oDS)

active clay (that acts as a thickener to ensure a smooth mixture)

Skin protecting agent (known for its soothing performance on sensitive skin)

RICH oXYDaNT mineral oil (Part 2 of the oil Delivery System oDS)

Hydrogen peroxide

Ionne G

2. Why do I need 3 elements for INOA but only 2 with Classic technology?

INoa provides a new approach to the delivery of colour into the hair. Classic oxidative hair colour is hydrophilic which means it likes water. Therefore we can have a hair colour tube that contains the aqueous support and the active hair colour ingredients.

The INoa, oil Delivery System (oDS) is based on a hydrophobic support, meaning without water and contains a high concentration of oil. The active hair colour ingredients do not like oil and cannot be kept in the same tube as the hydrophobic support. Therefore INoa, with the oil Delivery System (oDS) has 3 elements.

3. Why do I need 2 tubes for 1 application?The need for 2 tubes of the concentrated colorants allows the mixing of a fashion shade with a corresponding Natural Basic for perfect coverage of over 70% white hair. additionally, 2 tubes allows for the intermixing of 2 shades and ultimate creativity.1 application = 2 x 8g tubes

4. How do I mix INOA?

To prepare 1 application on INoa mix: 40g of oleo gel

60g of Rich oxydant 20 or 30 vol. (20 vol. to cover white hair or lighten up to 2 levels and 30 vol. to lighten up to 3 levels)

2 x 8g tubes

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5. Is the numbering of INOA shades the same as that of Majirel?

Yes, it is identical. as with existing classic technology such as majirel, with INoa there are up to 3 numbers that represent the depth, primary and secondary reflects.

9 Very light Blonde 8 light Blonde 7 Blonde 6 Darkest Blonde 5 light Brown 4 Brown 3 Dark Brown 2 Darkest Brown 1 Black

Blue ,1 ash

light mauve ,02 iridescent

mauve ,2 iridescent

mahogany ,5 mahogany

Red ,6 Red

orange ,4 Copper

light orange ,04 Natural Copper

Yellow ,3 Golden

light yellow ,03 Natural Golden

light green ,7 Natural Cool

Green ,7 Cool

light blue ,01 Natural ash

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6. Can we mix 2 shades?

Yes. The 8g tubes allow you to mix a fashion shade with a corresponding Natural Basic shade for coverage of over 70% white hair.Example: 1 tube of 6 + 1 tube of 6,45

alternatively, all shades can be intermixed to achieve unlimited colour results when not covering over 70% white hair.Example: 1 tube of 6,34 + 1 tube of 8,34 = 7,34

7. If I dont find 2 shades I want from INOA, can I mix INOA with shades from another brand?

No. as the technology within INoa, the oil Delivery System (oDS) is completely different to existing classic technology it is not possible to mix shades from the 2 brands and achieve a desirable colour result.

8. Is a skin allergy test essential when using INOA?

Yes. as with all hair colour a skin allergy test is required prior to an application of INoa (see Skin allergy Test).

9. For the white hair coverage, why cant a Golden Basic be used?

The INoa reflections are pure and do not lose their intensity when mixed with a Natural Basic. The natural shades are also authentic and do not modify the purity of the reflection when mixed. Therefore with INoa we do not have Golden Basic shades, as they are not needed in order to obtain a luminous reflect.

10. Should I emulsify before rinsing?

ImPoRTaNT: when using INoa absolutely no water should be used during the initial emulsion phase. You must emulsify before rinsing, since the methodology is different from that of classic technology.

To be completed at the styling station Begin by carrying out a gentle, dry emulsification at the styling station (without water) to ensure that all colour is loose on the hair.

To be completed at the backwash once the colour has been completely loosened on the hair, continue to emulsify by adding a little water. after a few moments, rinse thoroughly until water runs clear.

Finish with the specific shampoo: INoa Post

11. Why do I need INOA Post Shampoo and is this mandatory?

Yes. INoa Post Shampoo is specifically designed to remove an oil-based coloration. as INoa contains the oil Delivery System (oDS), it is very important the the correct shampoo is used to ensure removal and optimum colour results.

12. Is there a difference between the colour result of Majirel and that of INOA? If we apply an INOA colour to a Majirel client will the client see the difference?

Clients will see a very similar colour result, however they will also notice the benefits attributed to the optimised respect for the hair that INoa provides. additionally clients will also benefit from optimised scalp comfort and an odourless colour experience.

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HEALTH AND SAFETY11at loral Professionnel, our aim is to work in partnership with you to create beautiful hair, whilst ensuring at all times the absolute safety of you, your staff and all your clients. We invest tirelessly in product development to create NEW innovative products with safety always in mind. These products, when used at all times according to the safety instructions, alongside recommended best practice in your salon, will help ensure not only the best results, but the safest environment for everyone.

loral Professionnel has designed a protocol which will enable you to manage your clients colour experience and determine the need to carry out a skin allergy test.

The protocol follows a 3-step consultation with your colour client, to accompany the application of a loral Professionnel coloration:

Step1: Professional Consultation

Step 2: How to carry out a skin allergy test

Step 3: How to carry out a colour application

Refer to your Professional Safety booklet for more information.

Please note: If you do not follow the 3-step professional safety consultation then the basic skin allergy test rules still apply.

a SKIN allERGY TEST mUST BE DoNE 48 HoURS BEFoRE EaCH aPPlICaTIoNHair colorants can cause an allergic reaction, which in certain rare cases may be severe for you and your client. It is therefore essential to follow these precautions:

Wear suitable disposable gloves during the preparation, application and rinsing of the product.

DO NOT USE a hair colorant product if: your client has previously experienced a reaction to hair colorants.

your client has a sensitive, itchy or damaged scalp.

Check for tattoos and permanent make-up.

Black henna tattoos: ask your client if he/she has ever had, even once, a black henna tattoo as he/she may have become allergic without realising it.

Do not use this product unless you have done the skin allergy test 48 hours before use.

If your client has had an allergic reaction to any type of skin tattoo including henna or permanent make-up, the risk of allergy may be greater.

HoW To CaRRY oUT a SKIN allERGY TESTmix 1 part colorant with 2.5 parts oleo Gel. mix the two products thoroughly in a non-metallic bowl. Remove earrings. Behind the ear and using a cotton-bud apply a little of the mixture sufficient to cover an area of 1 to 2 cm2 (see INoa Skin allergy Test page 30 for full details).

Re-apply two or thee times allowing it to dry between each application. leave for 48 hours without washing, covering or touching.

If during the course of this period you or your client notice any abnormal reaction such as intense itching, redness or swelling in or around the test area DO NOT APPLY THE COLORANT.

Recommend that your client seeks medical advice before any further colour applications are made.

Furthermore, when using technical products and in cases of prolonged exposure to water:

Wear suitable disposable gloves during the preparation, application and rinsing of the product.

aFTER aPPlICaTIoNFor technical products, discard any left-over mixtures immediately. They cannot be kept or used again.

For safe storage and disposal of waste see the CoSHH booklet and loral Professionnel product guide.

For a copy call customer services on 0845 6000 122 or contact the Hairdressing & Beauty Suppliers association on 01707 649 499.

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