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David Eimer, Paul Harding, Ashley Harrell, Trent Holden, Mark Johanson, MaSovaida Morgan, Jenny Walker, Ray Bartlett,
Loren Bell, Jade Bremner, Stuart Butler, Sofia Levin, Virginia Maxwell
Mix the offbeat with the sublime in Indonesia’s heart of tourism.
Start in Bali, acclimatising in the resorts, clubs and shops of Seminyak. Dose up on sun at the beach, then explore the perfect little beaches and surf breaks of the Bukit Peninsula.
Head north to immerse yourself in the ‘other’ Bali – the culture, temples and rich his-tory of Ubud. Take a cooking course, unwind at a spa, wander the rice paddies and see Bali’s famous traditional dance. Then escape to the misty mountains for treks to water-falls amid coffee plantations in and around Munduk.
Next is Lombok. Take the ferry from Bali’s port town of Padangbai to Lombok’s launching pad of Lembar. Head to Kuta for mellow vibes amid the wonderful beaches of south Lombok. Then potter through the rice fields and Hindu temples around Mataram.
Ferry from Bangsal to the deservedly celebrated Gili Islands, where seamless beach-es, translucent water and vivid reefs beg for snorkelling. Or if time’s short, catch a fast boat directly to the Gilis from Bali.
Sumatra is big and you’ll have to hustle to fully appreciate its myriad natural charms within visa constraints.
Start your explorations in Medan, then head out of town to Bukit Lawang to see the island’s famous residents, the orang-utans. It’s a short jaunt from here to Berast-agi, a laid-back hill town amid volcanoes.
Head northwest to Ketambe for truly wild orang-uatan encounters in Gunung Leuser National Park. Then take a bus to Banda Aceh, from where it’s a short boat ride to world-class diving at Pulau Weh. Take a bus along the coast south (or fly) and venture off the west coast to the Ban-yak Islands, a surfing and beach paradise. Back ashore, follow the Trans- Sumatran Hwy south to Bukittinggi, a good base for exploring the cultures and beauty of the Harau Valley and Danau Maninjau.
More surf, sand and underwater joy await at the Mentawai Islands. Next, head inland to the volcanic Kerinci Val-ley and Kerinci Seblat National Park for remote jungle villages. Finally, head far south to Way Kambas National Park, where the highlights include elephants. From here, it’s easy to catch the Java ferry.
6 WEEKS
tHaILanD
MaLaYsIa
I N D I A NO C E A N
BanyakIslands
HarauValley
DanauManinjau
MentawaiIslands
Medan
Bukittinggi
Berastagi
Bukit LawangÉ
#•#•
#•
#•
#•
#•#•#•
Pulau Weh
É
É
É
É
#÷Way Kambas
National Park
#• #•Kerinci Valley
sInGaPOre
#÷
Gunung LeuserNational Park
Sumatra
Indonesia’s most populous island mixes the nation’s future and past with natural beauty.
Begin in Jakarta and wrap your senses around the dizzying smells, sounds, sights and people of Indonesia’s teeming capital. Linger long enough to binge on Bintang beer and splurge in the city’s shops, then head to Batu Karas for classic laid-back beach vibes or go for the resorts of nearby Pangandaran.
After you’ve worshipped the sun for a week or so, catch the train to Yogyakarta, Java’s cultural capital. Dabble in batik, am-ble through the kraton (walled city palace) and part with your rupiah at the vibrant markets. A day trip to majestic Borobu-dur is a must.
From Yogyakarta, journey to the laid-back city of Solo, via the enigmatic temples of Prambanan. From there, visit Malang and its cluster of nearby Hindu temples. Then head into the clouds at awe-some Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park, spending a night on the lip of Teng-ger crater. Finally, hike to the magnificent turquoise sulphur lake of Kawah Ijen on the Ijen Plateau
3 WEEKS
JAVA S E A
Batu Karas
JAKARTA
Pangandaran
Borobudur Solo
Prambanan
Malang
#•
‚É
É
Bromo-Tengger-SemeruNational Park
MALAYSIA
É
Yogyakarta
#_
#•#• #• #•#•
#•#÷#•
KawahIjen
The Java Jaunt
31PLAN
YOUR TRIP It
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Papua is the launching pad for this route through some of Indonesia’s most exotic and beautiful territory. You can do it in 30 days with judicious use of flights; other-wise take your time for the full land and sea adventure.
Start at the transport hub of Jayapura. But you’ll only be there long enough to charter a boat to visit the magnificent Da-nau Sentani, a 96.5-sq-km lake with 19 islands perfect for inland island-hopping.
Back on dry land, take to the air to get to the beautiful Baliem Valley, rich in culture and hike-worthy mountain scenery, jumping-off point for treks into the little-explored Yali Country, and home to the Dani people, an ethnic group whose mem-bers have eschewed most modern things and live a traditional life. Enjoy mountain views from a thatched hut.
Fly to Nabire via Jayapura and spot whale sharks off the coast – you can even swim with them. Then fly up for some idle island time on Pulau Biak. Next it’s a flight to Sorong, a base for trips out to the Raja Ampat Islands – a paradise for di-vers and snorkellers, with Indonesia’s most abundant and varied marine life.
4 WEEKS
A R A F U R AS E A
‚
Sorong
Nabire
Jayapura
Raja Ampat Islands Pulau
Biak
BaliemValley
É
DanauSentani
#• #• #•
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É
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The Great East
Lombok is well-known to visitors and Flores is also popular, but the island province of Nusa Tenggara holds many more surprises.
Head east from Lombok. Admire the beautiful coastline and surf breaks such as Maluk and Pantai Lakey that dot Sum-bawa. Catch the ferry to Flores, where Labuan Bajo is the fast-growing hub for ex-ploring nearby Komodo National Park. Enjoy dragons and small, beautiful island beaches.
Flores is a rugged volcanic island with thriving ancient cultures and dramatic terrain, which is increasingly explored via the fast-improving Trans-Flores Hwy. Visit Bajawa to explore volcanoes and villages, then use mountainside Moni as a base for visiting the vivid waters at Kelimutu. Sa-vour the lovely beaches near Paga.
Now take a ferry south to isolated and timeless Sumba, where superb beaches such as Waikabubak and Tambolaka are starting to attract visitors. After indulg-ing in sun and isolation, fly to Kupang in West Timor. Visit entrancing ancient vil-lages like None, Boti and Temkessi in the surrounding areas to the east, then jump over to Rote for relaxed beach vibes.
6 WEEKS
tIMOr-Leste
KomodoNational Park
Flores
Sumba
WestTimor
Rote
É É
É
#•
#•
#• #•#÷
#•É
É
ÉÉÉ#•
Lombok
Sumbawa
Nusa Tenggara
32
PLAN YO
UR TRIP ItIn
er
ar
Ies
Mysterious rivers of unfathomable length that wind through the jungle are the av-enues via which travellers can discover Kalimantan’s incredible diversity of life, including orang-utans.
Unassuming Pangkalan Bun is the en-try point to this excursion – it’s the launch-ing pad for trips into glorious Tanjung Puting National Park, one of the prime places for spotting orang-utans. Scan the canopy for their amber bodies from the up-per deck of a klotok (houseboat) as it drifts down the beautiful Sungai Sekonyer.
From Pangkalan Bun, fly or take the over-night bus to colourful Banjarmasin. Make sure to visit its animated floating markets, one of the most photogenic sights in Kalim-antan. Detour for some hiking and bamboo rafting in the remote hills around Loksado. From Banjarmasin, travel overland to Sa-marinda and make an expedition along Sungai Mahakam. Several days upstream will land you in the river’s western reaches, which are peppered with semi-traditional Dayak villages and preserved forests. Travel back to the coast and head north to primi-tive, teardrop-shaped Pulau Derawan and its offshore underwater wonders.
6 WEEKS
J A VA S E A
#•
MaLaYsIa
PangkalanBun
Samarinda
Tanjung PutingNational Park
SungaiMahakam
PulauDerawan
Loksado
ÉÉ
É
#•
#•
#•
#•
Banjarmasin
#•
#÷
É
Postcards Come to Life
Explore two of Indonesia’s greatest con-centrations of islands in these little-visited regions.
In Makassar pause amid the pandemo-nium for excellent seafood. But don’t overdo it, as you want to be fully alive for the elabo-rate funeral ceremonies in Tana Toraja, a nine-hour bus trip from Makassar. From here, another long bus ride takes you to the mountain-lake town of Tentena, from where you can access the ancient megalithic statues of Lore Lindu. A four-hour shared-car journey whisks you to Ampana, where you take a ferry to the amazing, beguiling Togean Islands for days of island-hopping between iconic beaches.
Tearing yourself away, boat to Goron-talo, then board a bus or plane to Manado and take a boat to laid-back Pulau Bu-naken. Fly from Manado to Pulau Ter-nate, which is as pretty a tropical island paradise as you’ll find. From there, fly onto Kota Ambon on Maluku’s Pulau Ambon. Pause only briefly, then take the fast ferry to the crystalline seas, multicoloured reefs and empty beaches of the Banda Islands. Finally make the jaunt by boat southeast to the Kei Islands, for perfect beaches.
8 WEEKS
PHILIPPInes
tIMOr-Leste
T I M O R S E A
C E L E B E SS E A
KeiIslands
Makassar
Tana Toraja
Tentena
LoreLindu Ampana
TogeanIslands
Gorontalo
Manado
Kota Ambon
BandaIslands #f #•
É
É
PulauTernate
#–
#•
#•
#•
É
É
É
#–
É
ÉÉ
#•
#•
#•#•
#•#•
#•
#•
PulauBunaken
#•
Indonesia’s Island Core
33PLAN
YOUR TRIP It
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CHINA
INDIACAMBODIA
LAOS
MYANMAR
MALAYSIA
THAILAND
VIETNAM
Padang
Jambi
BandungSurabaya
Solo(Surakarta)Yogyakarta
BukitLawang
PangkalPinang
BandarLampung
Pontianak
Banjarmasin
Balikpapan
Samarinda
PalangkaRaya
KotaKinabalu
Kuching
Denpasar
Ho ChiMinh City
KUALALUMPUR
BANDAR SERIBEGAWAN
B
PHNOMPENH
ANGKOK
SINGAPORE
South
China
Sea(East
Sea)
TelukDalu
INDIANOCEAN
ka ###•##•###•#
UJUNG KULON
NATIONAL PARK
SOUTHWESTGILIS
AMLAPURA
#•CANDI MUARATAKUS
#•
GUNUNGMERBABU
Off the Beaten Track
#•
small, but serene 11th-century Buddhist temple ruins in riau Province. (p586)
CANDI MUARA TAKUS
Put your survival skills to the test in a pristine rainforest. (p89)
UJUNG KULON NATIONAL PARK
Wander the remote savannah of this forgotten volcanic crater. (p145)
GUNUNG MERBABU
Idyllic, reef-fringed isles offering respite from those other Gilis. (p326)
SOUTHWEST GILIS
World-class traditional cuisine in Gunung agung’s fertile foothills. (p290)
AMLAPURA
34
PLAN YO
UR TRIP OFF t
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PH
PAPUANEW
GUINEA
AUSTRALIA
ILIPPINES
Fak-fak
ManokwariKota Biak
Timika
Sorong
Wamena
KotaTernate
KotaAmbon
JayapuraMakale
Makassar
Palu
Gorontalo
Kupang
DILI
MANILA
SulawesiSea
4444
#•
BOGANI NANIWARTABONENATIONAL PARK
#• PULAU HALMAHERA
#•
PULAUTANIMBAR
KEI#•KOROWAI
0 1,000 km0 500 miles#e
the largest island in Maluku but also one of the least-visited, Halmahera offers beaches and volcanoes, little-seen dive sites and the chance to venture into one of Indonesia’s most remote national parks. (p431)
PULAU HALMAHERA
this remote national park offers both rare species and ancient burial sites buried deep within the forests.(p703)
BOGANI NANI WARTAB-ONE NATIONAL PARK
Visit the world’s most talented tree-house builders in super-remote Papua. (p508)
KOROWAI
this idyllic island has superb white-sand beaches ringed by tranquil turquoise sea and a complete lack of tourist infrastructure. Find a homestay with the friendly locals and let the days drift by. (p463)
PULAU TANIMBAR KEI
35PLAN
YOUR TRIP O
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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Alex Ward, Alexandra Wald, Anita Mulders, Anne Robson, Anouk Lubbe, Anthony van den Langenbergh B Brad Plogsted C Carlos Fernandez, Colin Whitefield D Dan Conroy, Dani Daley, David Greilach, David Hudak, David Mendes Barata E Ed Allan, Erica Wijarnako F Fernando Raynaldi Kale, Floor van Wingerden, Florence Soudy, Freddy Klingbeil G Gaia Pinotti, Gary Chow, Glen Clark J Javier Castro Guinea, Jenine Allaart, Jeroen Willemsen, Jesper Buijs K Katharina Davies, Keith Koenigsberg, Kerry Blunsum L Lianca Ruiter, Lynn Lawrance M Manuela Arigoni, Marie Kirchner, Marine Yzquierdo, Mark Tewari, Marlon Goos , Marten Buijs, Matt Lyne, Matthieu Kamerman, Mel Farrell, Mi-chael Montague N Natalie Bogner, Nia Haf, Nick Tunley P Patricia Lustig, Paulo Leite R Rachel de Jong, Rolf Rabe, Rudolph Lei-jtens S Sean Lavery, Stefano Longoni, Stella Meerman, Stephen Wilson, Steven Hannink, Steven Haurissa, Stien Van den Heuvel, Sven Bohnert, Sybrand Mostert, Syenne Ribka T Tjip Huysmans, Tom Roes V Virginie More W Wessel van Son
AUTHOR THANKS David EimerSpecial gratitude for their help to Aty in Terna-te, Ere in Ambon, Alan in Bandaneira and Vicky in Kei Kecil. Thanks to Tanya Parker and the LP crew in London. As ever, thanks to everyone who passed on tips along the way, whether knowingly or unwittingly.
Paul HardingA big thanks to the many gracious and helpful Indonesians I encountered on the road in Kali-mantan, including Denny in Pontianak, Agung, Kipli and Arly in Sintang, Bona Ventura, Liesa, Majid and the crew at Kumai, Tailah, Yayat and Wenny, Meiling in Balikpapan, Budiyono and Danielle. Most of all, thanks to Hannah and Layla for the regular phone calls and enduring patience.
Ashley HarrellThanks to editor Tanya Parker and my co- authors for their excellency, Katharine Krzyzan-owski for hanging out, the Italians (Gianluca Affitti, Elena Rebeggiani, Maurizio Benedettini and Roberta Simoni) for admiring my reckless-ness and feeding me cheese, Antoni Sitepu for invaluable assistance and endless amusement, the Korowai people for their hospitality, Jon Clutton and Liz Morgan for their buoyancy tips, and Alex Harrell and Sarah Tosques for flying
across the world to keep me company at 25m below sea level. I still can’t believe you came.
Trent HoldenFirst up huge thanks to Tanya Parker at Lonely Planet for giving me this awesome gig to work on Sumatra. So good to be back! A big shout out to Gustri Tri Putra for all your hard work in helping me get around this beast of an island and the laughs and good tunes along the way. I’d also like to thank the following people for their assistance: Ling, Josh, Luke, Zacky, Brigitte, Mr Moon, Nella, Andrea, Timmy, Joseph, Ahmad, Linda, Mery and Abdy. Finally love to all of my family and my beautiful fiancé Kate.
Mark JohansonThanks to all the people on Lombok and Sumbawa who steered me in the right direction and helped me to navigate the post-earthquake islands, even when their personal lives were in shambles. I owe a debt of gratitude to Rudy Trekker, Gemma Marjaya, Kelly Goldie and Andy Wheatcroft for being fountains of knowledge along the way. A special thanks to my partner Felipe Bascuñán for tolerating my long absences and to my editor Niamh O’Brien for tirelessly ensuring I was OK!
MaSovaida MorganDeepest thanks to the wonderful souls who provided assistance, insight and companion-ship throughout my time on Bali: Rob, Mar-gie, Max, Kristy and the Outsite crew; Gigi and Annette; Ty and Jeff; and especially to my dear brother Bayu for an efficient and unfor-gettable journey.
Jenny WalkerI first visited Indonesia 35 years ago and in a country where everything has changed, the
sense of welcome has remained constant. A general thanks, then, to all who helped contribute to the information in the Central Java section of this country update. Specific thanks to Mr Dwi Cahyono of Akgkasa Trans for his wonderful dependability and gentle companionship. Biggest thanks are reserved as ever to beloved Sam (Owen) – husband, co-researcher and fellow traveller.
Ray BartlettThanks first and foremost to Tanya, for the chance to work on this, and to each of the editors who will peek at it afterwards. Thanks as well to my family, friends, and to my in-credible Indonesian contacts. In particular, huge thanks to Ms Tijo, the ‘Buah Naga’, to Sarah H, to Edy and to the rest of my Indo-nesian pals. Last, I want to send particular wishes to the people in Donggala, Palu and other regions so affected by the earthquake and tsunami. Words can’t express my sorrow for your losses, and my admiration for your strength and recovery.
Loren BellThe biggest thank you to Kari: for putting up with my long absences during these projects – both physical and mental – and for giving me a brief reprieve from dish duties as dead-lines approached. Your love and support (and regular pupdates) are critical and felt even half way around the planet.
Jade BremnerThanks to Destination Editor Tanya Parker for her support, knowledge and quick-fire responses on Jakarta. Plus, the wider Indo-nesia team and everyone working behind the scenes on this project – Cheree Broughton, Neill Coen, Evan Godt and Helen Elfer. Last but not least, thanks to the friendly Jakarta locals, who always remain calm, polite and
THIS BOOK This 12th edition of Lonely Planet’s Indonesia guidebook was curated by David Eimer, Paul Harding, Ashley Harrell, Trent Holden, Mark Johanson, MaSovaida Morgan and Jenny Walker, who also researched and wrote it along with Ray Bartlett, Loren Bell, Jade Bremner, Stuart Butler, Sofia Levin and Virginia Maxwell. The previous edition was researched and written by Loren Bell, Stuart Butler, Trent Holden, Anna Kaminski, Hugh McNaughtan, Adam Skolnick,
Iain Stewart and Ryan Ver Berkmoes. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editors Tanya Parker, Niamh O’BrienSenior Product Editor Kate ChapmanProduct Editor Kathryn RowanRegional Senior Carto- grapher Julie SheridanBook Designer Mazzy PrinsepAssisting Editors Andrew Bain, James Bainbridge, Michelle Bennett, Heather Champion, Nigel Chin, Lucy Cowie, Kate Daly, Melanie
Dankel, Samantha Forge, Carly Hall, Kate James, Lou McGre-gor, Rosie Nicholson, Sarah Reid, Simon WilliamsonAssisting Cartographers Hunor Csutoros, Julie DodkinsAssisting Book Designers Clara MonittoCover Researcher Wibowo RusliThanks to Jennifer Carey, Martin Heng, Evan Godt, Elizabeth Jones, Lauren Keith, Catherine Naghten, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Matt Phil-lips, Rachel Rawling, Eleanor Simpson, Colin Trainer, James Smart
BEHIN
D THE SCEN
ES815
helpful despite the endlessly chaotic sur-roundings of the city.
Stuart ButlerThe first people I must thank are my wife, Heather, and children, Jake and Grace, for their unending patience while I worked on this project (and for graciously accepting my only being able to take a week’s holiday). In Java thank you to Dadang Supardi and Suwarna Adi as well as to all the many hotel and restaurant owners and other wonderful Indonesians who helped out. In LP land thank you to Tanya for the chance to work on this project.
Sofia LevinErwin, Willy and Andy – thank you for your guidance on the road, but most of all, your friendship. To my husband, Matt, this job would be impossible without your constant support and encouragement, both when I’m away and by your side. And to my parents (aka my biggest fans), thank you for instilling
me with curiosity, appetite and the travel bug from the moment I was born.
Virginia MaxwellThanks to Ryan Ver Berkmoes for the Bali briefing, Hanafi Dharma for the expert driving and navigation, and Niamh O’Brien for mon-itoring the safety situation. My support team of Peter and Max Handsaker stayed calm when they saw the earthquake reports and made regular Skype calls to check up on me. I couldn’t work as a travel writer without them.
accommodation 420climate 420food 420highlights 421North Maluku 422-36travel to/from 422travel within 422
Mamasa 689-90, 689Mamasa Valley 688-90Manado 704-7, 705Mancong 649Manokwari 480-3, 481Manokwari region 483-4maps 786Maratua Atoll 656-7Marimbati 434markets
Banjarmasin 634Bosnik 493floating markets 634
Ikat Market 388Jimbaran Fish Market
244Kota Saparua 445Market Apung 168Pasar (Ende) 388Pasar Baru 93Pasar Beringharjo 128Pasar Bolu 679Pasar Bunga 185Pasar Jibama 497Pasar Kedelang 395Pasar Klewer 156Pasar Malam 368Pasar Malam Hongkong
Muara Jambi 592-4Muara Muntai 648Muller Mountains 651multiculturalism 746-7, see
also cultureMunduk 300-2Museum Bahari Bintan 591Museum Bank Indonesia
65Museum Layang-Layang
70-1Museum Le Mayeur 251Museum Macan 70Museum Nasional 67, 69Museum of North Suma-
tra 515Museum Pusaka Nias 535museums & galleries
Affandi Museum 128-9Agung Rai Museum of
Art 263Ambarawa Train Station
Museum 166
BIASA ArtSpace 231Blambangan Museum
209Dream Museum Zone
222Galeri Nasional 69Hotel Tugu Malang 185House of Danar Hadi 151House of Sampoerna 177Istana Kadriah 611Jasa Menenun Mandiri
617Jogja National Museum
128Keraton 425-6Merapi Volcano Museum
144Mulawarman Museum
646Museum Asi Mbojo 367Museum Bahari 67Museum Bahari Bintan
591Museum Balanga 628Museum Bank Indonesia
65Museum Bank Mandiri
65-7Museum Huta Bolon
Simanindo 529Museum Kailasa Dieng
119Museum Kapal
Samurrarska 122Museum Kapuas Raya
617Museum Kareta Kraton
128Museum Karolingga 525Museum Layang-Layang
70Museum Le Mayeur 251Museum Loka Budaya
485Museum Macan 70Museum Nasional 67, 69Museum Negeri Banda
Aceh 541Museum Negeri La
Galigo 663Museum Negeri Propinsi
Bali 254Museum of North
Sumatra 515Museum Nusa Tenggara
Timur 399-400Museum Pinawetengan
711Museum Provinsi Kalim-
antan Barat 611Museum Puri Lukisan
266
Museum Pusaka Karo 524Museum Pusaka Nias
535-6Museum RA Kartin 168Museum Rudana 279Museum Sang Nila
Utama 587Museum Sejarah Jakarta
65Museum Seni Rupa Dan
Keramik 67Museum Seribu Moko
395Museum Siginjai 594Museum Siwalima 437Museum Sulawesi
Tengah 694Museum Tekstil 71Museum Wayang 65Neka Art Museum 265Pasifika Museum 249Pura Puncak Penulisan
303Radya Pustaka Museum
151Ronggowarsito Museum
161Royal Carriage-House
Museum 183RUCI Art Space &
Cafe 71Rumah Budaya 450Sangiran Museum of
Ancient Man 151Selasar Sunaryo Art
Space 100-1Setia Darma House of
Mask and Puppets 279Sono-Budoyo Museum
128Sonyine Malige 431State Museum of Beng-
kulu Province 584Tonyraka Art Lounge 279Ullen Sentalu 146
music 724, 753-4
NNabire 494-5Nagoya 588-9Namano 446national parks & reserves
776Aketajawe-Lolobata
National Park 436Baluran National Park
210-11Batang Palupuh Nature
Reserve 570Batur Caldera Geopark
303
Betung Kerihun National Park 618
Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park 703
Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park 197-201
Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park 605
Danau Sentarum National Park 620
fees 610Gede Pangrango
National Park 97-8Gunung Arjuna-Lalijiwo
Reserve 190Gunung Halimun
National Park 95Gunung Leuser National
Park 519, 554Gunung Merapi National
Park 144, 146Gunung Palung National
Park 622Kayan Mentarang
National Park 658Komodo National Park
11, 370, 10, 41Kutai National Park 651Lore Lindu National Park
692-4Mangrove Boardwalk
170Manusela National Park
446Meru Betiri National
Park 205Pangandaran National
Park 108-9Sebangau National Park
631-2Seventeen Islands
Marine Park 386Taman Arboretum Sylva
610Taman Nasional Bali
Barat 313-14Taman Nasional Teluk
Cenderawasih 494Taman Wisata Alam
Kerandangan 330Tangkoko-Batuangas
Dua Saudara Nature Reserve 714-15
Tanjung Puting National Park 13, 622-5, 13, 49
Togean Islands National Park 24, 701
Ujung Kulon National Park 89-91
Wakatobi National Park 719
Way Kambas National Park 602-4
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
823IN
DEX N
- Pnatural disasters 697, 723-4Neka Art Museum 265Nemberala 408-9Nemberala region 409Nest 354newspapers 786None 405-6north Bali 306-14, 307North Highlands 684North Kalimantan 637,
658North Lowlands 685North Maluku 422-36North Sulawesi 702-15North Sumatra 513-34Northern Leihitu 443-4northern Papua 484-95Northern Seram 447-50Nusa Ceningan 261-2Nusa Dua 249-50Nusa Lembongan 257-
Pangandaran region 113-14Pangkalan Bun 625-8, 626pantai, see beachesPantai Anggopi 493Pantai Annora 170Pantai Areguling 336Pantai Bama 210Pantai Bandengan 168Pantai Base G 485-6Pantai Batu Topeng 170
Pantai Bira 669-72, 670Pantai Bungus 562-3Pantai Daftel 463Pantai Indrayanti 143Pantai Kajoli 430Pantai Kartini 169Pantai Keramas 285Pantai Koka 392Pantai Kukup 144Pantai Kupa Kupa 432Pantai Lakey 366-7Pantai Luari 433Pantai Maimol 395Pantai Mawan 336Pantai Ngurtavur 461Pantai Ohoidertutu 462Pantai Paga 391Pantai Panjang 584Pantai Pasir Putih
(Candidasa) 289Pantai Pasir Putih
(Manokwari) 480Pantai Segara Indah 493Pantai Seger 336Pantai Sorake 539Pantai Tanjung Gelam 170Pantai Tanjung Sanghyang
Sorong 471-2south Bali 243-63, 223South Kalimantan 632-7South Sulawesi 662-88South Sumatra 595-7Southeast Sulawesi 715-20Southern Kei Kecil 462Southern Leitimur 442southern Papua 504-8southwest beaches 222-39,
223Southwest Gilis 326-7Southwestern Peninsula
325-6spas
Jakarta 71-2Kota Ambon 439Kuta (Bali) 224Labuan Bajo 375, 377Seminyak 231-2Senggigi 328-9Ubud 267
690-702climate 659earthquake 690food 659highlights 660history 661North Sulawesi 702-15Southeast Sulawesi
715-20South Sulawesi 662-88travel to/from 661travel within 661-2tsunami 690
sulphur gatherers 202Sumatra 56, 509-605,
510-11accommodation 509climate 509food 509highlights 510, 510-11history 512itineraries 31North Sumatra 513-34South Sumatra 595-7travel to/from 512travel within 512-13West Sumatra 557-83,
557Sumba 409-19, 410Sumbawa 360-9Sumbawa Besar 363-4Sumenep 183-4, 184sun bears 640Sunan Kudus Tomb 167-8Sungai Kapuas 12, 617, 12Sungai Mahakam 645-51Sungai Penuh 578-9Sungai Pinang 562-3Surabaya 174-81, 176
accommodation 178courses 178drinking & nightlife
179-80entertainment 180food 179shopping 180sights 174-7travel to/from 180travel within 180-1
Stuart Butler East and West Java, Thousand Islands Stuart has been writing for Lonely Planet for a decade and during this time he’s come eye to eye with gorillas in the Con-golese jungles, met a man with horns on his head who could lie in fire, huffed and puffed over snow bound Himalayan mountain passes, interviewed a king who could turn into a tree, and had his fortune told by a parrot. And he’s met more than his fair share of self-proclaimed gods. When not on the road for Lonely
Planet he lives on the beautiful beaches of southwest France with his wife and two young children.
Sofia Levin East Nusa Tenggara A Melbourne-based food and travel journalist, Sofia believes that eating in a country other than one’s own is the simplest way to understand a culture. She has a stomach of steel and the ability to sniff out local haunts. Aside from trawling Melbourne as the Lonely Planet Local, she also co-authors guide-books and writes for Fairfax newspapers and travel magazines. When she’s not travelling or eating, Sofia runs copywriting and social media company Word Salad
and spreads smiles with her Insta- famous poodle, @lifeofjinkee. Find her on Instagram and Twitter (@sofiaklevin).
Virginia Maxwell Ubud & East Bali Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year updating Lonely Planet destination coverage across the globe. The Mediter-ranean is her major area of interest – she has covered Spain, Italy, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt, Morocco and Tunisia for LP – but she also covers Finland, Bali, Armenia, the Netherlands, the US and Australia for LP products. Follow her @maxwellvirginia on Instagram and Twitter.
Mark Johanson Lombok, West Nusa Tenggara Mark Johanson grew up in Virginia and has called five different countries home over the last decade while circling the globe report-ing for British newspapers (The Guardian), American magazines (Men’s Journal) and global media outlets (CNN, BBC). When not on the road, you’ll find him gaz-ing at the Andes from his current home in Santiago, Chile. Follow his adventures at www.markjohanson.com.
MaSovaida Morgan Bali MaSovaida is a travel writer and multimedia storyteller whose wanderlust has taken her to more than 40 countries and all seven continents. Previously, she was Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for South America and Antarctica for four years, and worked as an editor for newspapers and NGOs in the Middle East and the United Kingdom. Follow her on Instagram @MaSovaida.
Jenny Walker Central Java A member of the British Guild of Travel Writers, Jenny Walker has travelled to more than 125 countries and has been writing for Lonely Planet for nearly 20 years. Currently working in Oman as Deputy CEO of Oman Academic Accreditation Authority, her MPhil thesis focused on the Arabic Orient in British Literature (Oxford University) and her PhD (nearing completion) is on the Arabian desert as trope.
Ray Bartlett Sulawesi Ray Bartlett has been travel writing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico, Tanzania, Guatemala, Indonesia and many parts of the United States to life in rich detail for top-industry publishers, newspapers and magazines. His acclaimed debut novel, Sunsets of Tulum, set in Yucatán, was a Midwest Book Review 2016 Fiction pick. Among other pursuits, he surfs regularly and is an accomplished Argentine tango dancer. Follow him on Facebook (@ Ray
BartlettAuthor), Twitter and Instagram (@kaisoradotcom). Ray currently divides his time between homes in the USA, Japan and Mexico.
Loren Bell Sulawesi When Loren first backpacked through Europe he was in the backpack. That memorable experience corrupted his six-month-old brain, ensuring he would never be happy sitting still. His penchant for peregrination has taken him from training dogsled teams in the Tetons to chasing gibbons in the jungles of Borneo – with only brief pauses for silly ‘responsible’ things like earning degrees. When he’s not demystifying destinations for Lonely Planet, Loren writes about
science and conservation news. He camps in the Rocky Mountains where he probably spends too much time on his mountain bike and skis.
Jade Bremner Jakarta Jade has been a journalist for more than a decade. She has lived in and reported on four different regions. Wherever she goes she finds action sports to try, the weirder the better, and it’s no coincidence many of her favourite places have some of the best waves in the world. Jade has edited travel maga-zines and sections for Time Out and Radio Times, and has contributed to The Times, CNN and The Independent. She feels privileged to share tales from this
wonderful planet we call home and is always looking for the next adventure. Follow her on Twitter @jadebremner.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Dublin, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
David Eimer Maluku David has been a journalist and writer ever since abandoning the idea of a law career in 1990. After spells working in his native London and in Los Angeles, he moved to Beijing in 2005, where he contributed to a variety of news-papers and magazines in the UK. Since then, he has travelled and lived across China and in numerous cities in Southeast Asia, including Bangkok, Phnom Penh and Yangon. He has been covering China, Myanmar and Thailand for Lonely
Planet since 2006. David also contributed to the Plan, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.
Paul Harding Kalimantan As a writer and photographer, Paul has been travelling the globe for the best part of two decades, with an interest in remote and offbeat places, islands and cultures. He’s an author and contributor to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides to countries and regions as diverse as India, Belize, Vanuatu, Iran, Indonesia, New Zealand, Iceland, Finland, Philippines and – his home patch – Australia.
Ashley Harrell Papua After a brief stint selling day spa coupons door-to-door in South Florida, Ashley decided she’d rather be a writer. She went to journalism grad school, convinced a newspaper to hire her, and starting covering wildlife, crime and tour-ism, sometimes all in the same story. Fueling her zest for storytelling and the unknown, she traveled widely and moved often, from a tiny NYC apartment to a vast California ranch to a jungle cabin in Costa Rica, where she started writing
for Lonely Planet. From there her travels became more exotic and farther flung, and she still laughs when paycheques arrive.
Trent Holden Sumatra A Geelong-based writer, located just outside Melbourne, Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s covered 30-plus guidebooks across Asia, Africa and Australia. With a penchant for megacities, Trent’s in his element when assigned to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better – to unearth cool bars, art, street food and underground subculture. On the flipside he also writes books to idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on
safari to national parks in Africa and the subcontinent. When not travelling, Trent works as a free-lance editor and reviewer, and spends all his money catching live gigs. You can catch him on Twitter @hombreholden.