Indian textile industry

Indian Textile Industry

R.B.ChavanDepartment of Textile Technology

Indian Institute of TechnolgyHauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016

Introduction

industrial textile production

14%

Foreign exchange earning

20 billion

Employment (Textile) 35 millionTotal employment

Including agriculture 93 million

SSI and Non SSI

Sector Total investment (Rs.)

Small scale Upto 6 million

Medium and large scale More than 7.5 million

Decentralized Sector

TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN INDIA

NATURAL FIBRES / FABRICS

MAN-MADE FIBRES / FABRICS

Organized Sector(Mills)

Spinning Composites Handloom Powerloom Khadi

WO

OL

JUTE

SILK

CO

TTON

RAYONCellulose / viscose

BLENDED(Synthetic + Natural)

SYNTHETIC(Nylon, PET, PAN)

Cotton 70%

Wool, Silk Jute, Coir etc

10%

Manmade and blends 20%

Percent share of total production

Textile sector: Two groups

Natural fibres

Manmade fibres and blends

Production activities

Organized Mill sector

Spinning mills only

Composite mills:

Spinning

Weaving

Chemical processing

Garment manufacture

Production activities

Decentralized sector

Powerlooms

Handlooms

Khadi

Hosiery

Garment manufacture

Organized mill sector (1997)

Spinning mills (SSI and Non SSI) 1500

Composite mills 284

No. of mills closed 349

Huge growth in spindle capacity

1951: 11 milion

1997: 33 million

Decline in weaving capacity

1951: 2.1 million

1997: 1.24 million

11

33

0

10

20

30

40

No. o

f Spi

ndles

in

mill

ion

Spinning Capacity

1951 1997

2.1

1.24

0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

No.

of L

oom

s in

lakh

s

weaving Capacity

1951 1997

Problems

High interest rates of lending

poor quality,

insufficient availability and high tariff of power

infrastructure inadequacies

labour indiscipline

upgrade competitiveness to the international standards

mills can withstand competition from imports.

in most of the successful textiles producing nations like South Korea and Taiwan, it is the organized sector (mill sector) that plays a pivotal role in creating a brand name for the industry.

(GoI) has launched

Technology Mission on Cotton (TMC) to improve productivity and quality of cotton,

technology upgradation fund scheme (TUFS) (Initial period 1999-2004)

Measures taken by GOI

Decentralized sector

Features

Ease of entry

reliance on indigenous resources,

family ownership,

small scale operation,

labour intensive technology,

skills acquired outside the formal school system,

unregulated and competitive markets.

Problems

lack of technical competence,

poor quality products,

low labour productivity.

GOI help

Involvement of local agencies in planning

Marketing support

Handloom sector

Handlooms are a part of Indian heritage, they exemplify the richness and diversity of culture and hence the artistry of the weavers.

Purchase of yarn from mill,. weaving on Handloom

No. of looms 3900000

Employment 300,000? weavers Through out urban and rural areas of the country

Cloth production 20% of total cloth produced in the country

Able to withstand competiton from powerloom

Wave of ethnic revivalism effective state intervention through financial assistance implementation of various developmental schemes have brought about more than ten fold increase in the production of handloom fabrics. enjoying the benefits of reservation of certain fabric varieties, subsidies on raw materials and rebates on the prices of fabrics sold. The developmental programmes is aimed towards employment generation, modernization and upgradation of technology, market support, welfare measures publicity. In all the schemes emphasis has been laid on assisting handloom weavers directly, including upgradation of their skills etc.

Handloom survival

Powerloom sector

Weaving on power operated looms

Differentiated from organized mill sector on the basis of fragmented decentralized operation on small scale

Statistics

No. of looms 16,00000

Employment 70,00000

Market share 70% of total cloth production

Export 60% of total value

Powerloom

Features

combination of traditional art and contemporary modern designs.

The modernisation process undertaken by this industry has widened the scope of products such as grey, printed and dyed fabrics and cotton made-ups in a variety of sophisticated finishes and in a wide range of widths and sizes.

the industry is now in a position to offer fabrics not only of cottons but also of rich blends of cotton, synthetics and other fibers.

The process of economic liberalisation has enabled the industry to become globally competitive, not only in terms of price, but also in relation to quality and productivity

Powerloom

Problems

lower levels of technological sophistication. the growth has been stunted by technological obsolescence, fragmented structure,

low productivity

low-end quality products.

GOI help

focussing towards

technology upgradation,

modernisation of service centres, testing facilities

clustering of facilities to achieve optimum levels of production

Cloth production share

KhadiFeature

Hand spinning, hand weaving

Hand Spinning equipment Charkha

Most popular Charkha: Amber Charkha or New model charkha (NMC)

Downsized version of Ring spinning

Employment 1400000

Production 0.4% of total cloth production

Enjoys GOI support through KVIC under Ministry of Agro Rural Industries

Problems

Technologically most deprived sector

HosierySector

Knitting

Knitwears

Concentration

Wool and synthetic Ludhiana (Punjab)

Cotton Titupur (Tamil Nadu)

Features small-scale industry and labour intensive. Its growth accelerated during the last decade, primarily because of expansion of hosiery into global fashion knitwear, it is expected to expand into the apparel and home furnishing sectors. This sector shares about 18% of total production of cloth.The industry mainly produces T-shirts, cardigans, jerseys, pullovers, polo shirts, and outer garments for men and women.

GOI help

focussing towards technology upgradationexpansion of capacity introduction of support systems for commercialintelligence, design and fashion inputs

Cloth production in different sectors

Chemical wet processing

Involves

Preparatory processing Desizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerization, silk degumming, wool scouring etc.

Dyeing

Printing

Finishing

Processing forms

Fibre

Yarn

Fabric

Garments

Sector

Organized

Unorganized

Highly fragmented

Large number of small units

Probblems

Unorganized processing units

Small size compared to international standards

Smaller (Particularly garment processing) than in some of neighbouring countries

Weakest link in textile manufacture

Technology obsolescence

lack process standardizations

Lack of technical manpower

Use of non eco friendly chemicals

Release of effluents without treatment

Environment pollution

Large water consumption

Water pollution major concern.

Garment manufacturing

This sector is of recent origin and has grown predominantly on the basis of export demands.

Initially it was reserved for small scale sector.

However it is now open to organized sector and many big players have entered into garment manufacturing.

compared to mill sector the garment manufacturing sector is growing fast. It provided employment,

value addition and

major earning in foreign exchange through exports

Per capita cloth availability

Total cloth production (Mill, powerloom, handloom,khadi, hosiery) 4.3 billion Sq. M

World average?

Exports

ITI share in exports 1999-2000

SSI and Cleaner production technologies

SSI main source of Environment pollution

large number of SSI

practice old-age technologies

unskilled labour force.

Apart from this technological obsolescence

No quality standards no information about ongoing environmental impacts of their production steps. lack of awareness of market orientation in global trade

Every process from raw material preparation to spinning and weaving upto finishing processes are contributing cumulatively to environmental problems.

The GoI is formulating many policies and schemes for the upgradation of the industry to meet market requirements.

The initiative of the government is seen mainly towards funding. there is a great need of educating unskilled labour of small and tiny units clustered in remote areas of the country.