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1095
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
IndexAAboriginal art 19, 130, 831,
848-9, 1005, 1043-5, 19, 848, see also rock art
Aboriginal culture 27, 1042-7food 1057languages 1036music 1045performing arts 1045
Aboriginal festivals 30, 468, 822, 849, 849
Aboriginal history 1031, 1032, 1034, 1046-7
Aboriginal people 19, 849Bennelong 1033land 48, 1042-3New South Wales 66-7,
138, 155, 157, 200Northern Territory 810,
853, 862, 894Queensland 278South Australia 711, 715,
Aquarium 84-5area codes 23, 1076Arkaroola 800Armidale 200-1Arnhem Land 855-6art, see Aboriginal art,
galleriesArt Gallery of NSW 77Art Gallery of South
Australia 717, 26Art Gallery of Western
Australia 910Arthur River 695Atherton 441-2Atherton Tableland 437-46ATMs 1073Augusta 947-8Australia Day 29Australia Zoo 337Australian Centre for
Contemporary Art 486Australian Centre for the
Moving Image 479Australian Formula One
Grand Prix 500Australian Institute of
Sport 264Australian Museum 77Australian National Botanic
Gardens 261-2Australian National
Maritime Museum 88
Australian Open 499, 1061Australian Rules football
31, 496, 501, 737, 822, 833-4, 1060, 19
Australian War Memorial 258-9
Australianisms 1030Australia’s regions 58-60Ayers Rock, see Uluru
b backpacker hostels 1067-8Badgingarra National
Park 973Bairnsdale 610-11Ballarat 569-74, 570Ballina 182-3Bamaga 470-1Bangalow 192banking 1073Banks, Joseph 1031Barcaldine 377-8Barmera 770-1Barossa Valley 774-9,
775, 18Barraba 198Barrington Tops National
Park 160Barwon Heads 526basketball 737Bat Cave 768Batavia Coast 976-83Batchelor 837-8Bateman’s Bay 248-9bathrooms 1077Bathurst 204-6Bathurst Island 833Battery Hill Mining Centre
868Bay of Fires 668beaches 25Beachport 764Beachport Conservation
breweriesBellarine Peninsula 522-6Bellingen 171-2Bells Beach 540Ben Boyd National Park
255Ben Lomond National
Park 680Bendigo 574-9, 576Bennelong 1033Bennett, Shannon 507Bermagui 251-2Berri 772-3Berrima 223-4Berry 244Bicheno 665-6bicycle travel, see cyclingBig Day Out 29Bingara 198birds 1050, see also
773Christies Beach 747Christmas Island 1002City Botanic Gardens,
Brisbane 283Clare 782Clare Valley 779-83Clifton Beach 436climate 22, 29-32, 1049,
1053, see also individual regions
climate change 1053Cloncurry 373-4Cobourg Peninsula 856Cockatoo Island 74Cockle Creek 652-3Cocos (Keeling) Islands
1002
coffee 1058Coffin Bay National Park
790Coffs Harbour 173-8, 174Coles Bay 663-5colloquial language 1030Commodore Point 749consulates 1069-70convicts 77, 655, 1032-3Conway National Park 393Coober Pedy 801-4, 802Cooinda 853-4Cook, James 1031-2, 1034,
1032Cooktown 458-60Coolangatta 326-7Coolgardie 965-6Cooloola Coast 341-2Cooma 215-17Coonabarabran 203Coonawarra 766-7Coongie Lakes 806Cooper Creek 455Coopers Brewery 721Coorong National Park
761-2Coral Bay 989-92Coral Coast 988-1004,
990-1Corinna 696Corryong 568Cossack 999Coulta 790Country Music Festival 199Cow Bay 453Cowaramup 944Coward Springs 805Cowra 209-10Cradle Mountain-Lake St
Clair National Park 17, 701-5, 17
Crater Lakes National Park 443-4
credit cards 1073Crescent Head 166-7cricket 487, 501, 1036,
1060-1crime 1065Croajingolong National
Park 616-17crocodiles 275, 813-14, 837,
843, 1051, 1064Crowe, Russell 180Croydon 462-3cruises 1082culture 1028-30, see also
Aboriginal cultureCumberland River 542currency 22Currency Creek 744
Daydream Island 393Daylesford 581-4daylight saving 1077debit cards 1073-4Deloraine 682-3dengue fever 1065, 1071Denham 983-5Deniliquin 230-1Denmark 954-6D’Entrecasteaux National
Park 949Derby 1015-17deserts 1055Devil’s Marbles 869
Devonian Reef National Parks 1019-20
Devonport 681-2diarrhoea 1071-2Dig Tree 806Dimboola 557Dinner Plain 601dinosaurs 378, 1008disabilities, travellers with
1077diving & snorkelling
Byron Bay 186Cairns 418Christmas Island 1002Cocos (Keeling) Islands
1002Coffs Harbour 175Great Barrier Reef 40-2,
55, 54, 423New South Wales 68Ningaloo Marine Park
997Queensland 279-80South Australia 714Sydney 98Tasmania 623Townsville 397Western Australia 905
dolphin watching 57New South Wales 69, 247Queensland 314Western Australia 941,
985-6, 56Dongara 976-7Dorrigo National Park 172Douglas-Apsley National
Park 665Dover 652drinking 1058-9, see also
individual locationsdriving, see car traveldrownings 1064drug use 1072Dryandra Woodland 971Drysdale River 1019Dubbo 211-13Dudley Peninsula 755-6dugongs 57Duncan Road 1022Dunk Island 411Dunkeld 555Dunsborough 942-3DVDs 1067Dwellingup 938-9
EEaglehawk Neck 654East MacDonnell Ranges
884-5
1098
indEX E-H
echidnas 1051Echuca 563-7, 564Edel Land 984Eden 254-5Edith Falls 861Edithburgh 785electricity 1069Ellery Creek Big Hole 886Elliott 867Ellis Beach 437Elliston 790Elsey National Park 865embassies 1069-70Emerald 371emergency services 23,
see also individual locations
Emily Gap 884employment 1079-80Emu Bay 758, 758-9encephalitis 1065, 1071Engelbrecht Cave 765entertainment, see
individual locationsenvironment 1048-55environmental issues 1052Ernest Giles Road 890Errinundra National Park
Geeveston 651Geoffrey Bay 24Geographe Bay 940-3geology 1048-9George Town 678Geraldton 977-80, 978giardia 1065Gibb River Road 1017-19Gillard, Julia 1028, 1041Gippsland 604-17, 604-5Gippsland Lakes 610-13Girraween National Park
343Glass House Mountains
336-7Glen Annie Gorge 885Glen Innes 198Glendambo 801Glenelg 721Glenrowan 586Gnarraloo Bay 988Goat Island 74gold 569, 578, 1035Gold Coast 14, 316-27,
317, 14Goolwa 750-2Goulburn 224Goulburn Valley 584-7Grafton 180-1Grampians (Gariwerd)
551-5, 552Granger, Bill 109Great Barrier Reef 10, 37-
42, 419-24, 11, 54, 419, 420, 422, 423, 424
Great Keppel Island 370-1Great Ocean Road 13, 474,
535-51, 536-7, 13Great Sandy National Park
341-2Green Head 974-5Green Island 434Greenly Beach 790Gregory National Park 864Gregory’s Tree 864Griffith 229-30GST 1074Guilderton 972Gulf St Vincent 747-8Gulgong 214-15Gumeracha 743Gunbalanya 855-6Gundagai 224-5Gunlom 854Gympie 351-2
HHahndorf 740-2Hall 273
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
1099in
dEX H-L
Halls Gap 553-5Hamelin Pool 983Hamilton Island 394Hanging Rock 522Harrietville 601Harts Range 870Hartz Mountains National
Park 651-2Hastings Caves 652Hat Head National Park
167-8Hattah-Kulkyne National
Park 556Hawker 796-7Hawkesbury River 134-6Hawks Nest 156-7Hayman Island 394, 26Head of Bight 792Healesville 527-8Healesville Sanctuary 527health 1070-2heatstroke 1071Henbury Meteorite Craters
890Henley-on-Todd Regatta
876hepatitis C 1065Hepburn Springs 581-4Herberton 445Hermannsburg 887Heron Island 362-3Hervey Bay 354-9, 356-7Heysen Trail 716High Country 587-604,
588-9hiking, see bushwalkingHinchinbrook Island
National Park 407Hindmarsh Island Bridge
750history 1031-41, see also
Aboriginal history, individual locations
hitching 1090HIV 1065Hobart 626-43, 628, 632
accommodation 635-7activities 631children, travel with 635drinking & nightlife
530hotels 1068Howard, John 1041Hunter Valley 143-9, 144Huonville 650-1Hyden 972
iIan Potter Centre: NGV
Australia 478Ikara 797immigration 1081Indigenous art, see
Aboriginal artIndigenous culture, see
Aboriginal culture Indigenous history, see
Aboriginal historyIndigenous people, see
Aboriginal peopleIngalalla Falls 748Ingham 405-6Injalak Hill 855Innamincka 806Innes National Park 785-6Innisfail 412insurance 1071, 1072international calls 1076internet access 1072,
see also individual locations
internet resources 23
Inverell 198Iron Range National Park
469irukandji 1064itineraries 33-6, 33, 34,
35, 36
JJabiru 852Jardine River 470Jardine River National
Park 470Jawoyn Valley 862jellyfish 367, 1064Jenolan Caves 138Jervis Bay 246-8Jessie Gap 884Jim Jim Falls 853Jindabyne 217-18John Hayes Rockhole 884Junee 228Jurien Bay 974-5
754Kangaroo Valley 244-5kangaroos 1049-50Kanowna 969Kantju Gorge 897Karijini National Park
1000-3, 1001, 21Karratha 998-9Karumba 463Kata Tjuta 896, 896, 845Katherine 857-61, 858Katherine Gorge 861Katherine River 861kayaking & canoeing, see
also white-water raftingNew South Wales 69,
100, 187Northern Territory 861,
862Queensland 281South Australia 751,
753, 773Tasmania 623
Keep River National Park 864-5
Kelly, Ned 586Kempsey 166Kennett River 542
Keppel Bay Islands 371Kettering 646-7Kiama 243-4Kidman Trail 716Kiewa Valley 599-600Kimberley, the 1004-25
1006-7Kinchega National Park
238King Island 685-6King Valley 593-4Kings Canyon 888-9, 889,
850Kings Park & Botanic
Garden, Perth 910, 17Kingscote 757-8Kingston-On-Murray 770Knights Beach 749Kondalilla National Park
342koalas 1050
Billabong Koala & Wildlife Park 163
Koala Conservation Centre 532
Koala Hospital 161Lone Pine Koala
Sanctuary 289New South Wales 169Queensland 275
Kookynie 970Koonwarra 606Kosciuszko National
Park 218Kundjarra 868Kununurra 1021-5Kuranda 437-40, 439Ku-ring-gai Chase National
Park 97-8Kwong, Kylie 109Kwongan 973Kyneton 522
lLady Elliot Island 362Lady Musgrave Island 362Lake Albert 761Lake Argyle 1024Lake Ballard 969Lake Bonney 770Lake Cave 945, 19Lake Cooroibah 341Lake Cootharaba 341Lake Eildon National Park
Lakeland 468Lakes Entrance 612-13Lamington National Park
328-9Lancelin 972-3land rights 810Langhorne Creek 744language 22, 1030Larapinta Drive 887-8Larapinta Trail 885-6Larrimah 867Lasseter Highway 890-1Launceston 669-77, 670,
672accommodation 673-4activities 669-71drinking 675-6entertainment 675-6festivals & events 673food 674-5money 676shopping 676sights 669-71tourist information 676tours 671-3travel to/from 676travel within 677
Laura 468, 794Laura Aboriginal Dance
Festival 30, 468Laverton 970Leeman 974-5legal matters 1072-3Leigh Creek 799Leliyn 861Lennox Head 183-4Leonora 970lesbian travellers 102, 516,
725, 1070Lesueur National Park 974Lightning Ridge 202-3Limestone Coast 761-6Limmen National Park 866Lincoln National Park 789Lindeman Island 394Lismore 193-4Litchfield National Park
838-9Little Desert National Park
556-7live music 27, 1030Lizard Island 460lizards 1051
Lobethal 743-4local transport 1091Long Island 392-3Longford 679Longreach 376-8Lord Howe Island 167Lorne 541-2Low Head 679Loxton 771-2Luna Park, Melbourne 493Luna Park, Sydney 95-6,
116
mMacarthur, John 1033MacDonnell Ranges 884-7Mackay 381-6, 383Maffra 610Magnetic Island 401-5Maguk 854Main Beach 318-20Malanda 444Maldon 581Mallacoota 615-16Mallee 556mammals 1049-51Mamukala 843Mandalay 954Mandorah 833Mandurah 938Manilla 198Manjimup 951Manly 96-7, 96Mannum 769Mansfield 590-2Mapleton Falls National
Park 342Marble Bar 1004Mareeba 440-1Margaret River 944-5, 946Margaret River Gourmet
Escape 24, 32Margaret River wine region
943-8Maria Island National
Park 661Marion Bay 785markets
Adelaide 717, 721Brisbane 308Darwin 817, 830Eumundi markets 333Kuranda Original
Rainforest Markets 438
Melbourne 519Queen Victoria Market
482Salamanca Market 642
Sydney 128Sydney Fish Market 88
Marla 805Marlo 615Maroochy 338-40Marrawah 694Marree 806Mary River 836Mary River Billabong 836Maryborough 353-4Marysville 528Maslin Beach 747Mataranka 865-6Mawson Trail 716McArthur River 866McLaren Vale 744-6measures 1067medical services 1071,
see also individual locations
Meekatharra 976Melbourne 13, 478-522,
480-1, 484-5, 489, 490, 492, 494, 523, 13
accommodation 501-5activities 496-7children, travel with 478drinking & nightlife
National Park 999-1000Millthorpe 208mining 851Mintabie 805Mintaro 780-1Mission Beach 408-11Mitchell Plateau 1019Mittagong 222-3mobile phones 22, 1075-6Mole Creek 683-4MONA 12, 631, 12MONA FOMA 29Monarto Zoo 769money 22, 23, 1067, 1069,
1073-4Monkey Mia 985-6, 56Montague Island 250Moomba 806Moonta 784-5Moran, Matt 109Moree 203-4Moreton Bay 311-16Moreton Island 314-16Mornington Peninsula
529-31Mornington Peninsula
National Park 531Mossman 451motels 1068motorcycle travel 1084-90mountain biking, see
cyclingMount Gambier 764-6Mt Augustus 987Mt Arapiles 555Mt Barker 959Mt Baw Baw 605-6Mt Beauty 599-600Mt Buffalo National Park
596Mt Buller 592-3Mt Conner 890Mt Field National Park
645-6Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
1101in
dEX M-N
Mt Hotham 601-3Mt Hypipamee National
Park 445Mt Isa 374-5, 375Mt Kosciuszko 219Mt Lofty 742Mt Macedon 522Mt Molloy 434Mt Olga 896Mt Remarkable 794Mt Remarkable National
Park 531Point Quobba 988Point Samson 999Point Turton 785politics 1028-30Porcupine Gorge National
Park 373Porongurup National Park
959-60Port Adelaide 721-5Port Arthur 655-7Port Augusta 786-93Port Campbell 545-6Port Campbell National
Park 545
Port Denison 976-7Port Douglas 446-51, 447Port Elliot 749-50Port Essington 856Port Fairy 548-50Port Hedland 1003-4Port Lincoln 788-9Port MacDonnell 765Port Macquarie 161-6,
162-3Port Pirie 793-4Port Stephens 154-6Port Vincent 785Port Willunga 747Portland 550Portsea 530-1possums 1052, 1055postal services 1075Powerhouse Museum 85public holidays 1075public transport 1091Pularumpi 833Purnululu National Park
1023
Qquarantine rules 1073Queen Victoria Museum &
Art Gallery 670Queenscliff 523-5Queensland 274-472, 276-7
Rapid Bay 749Ravenshoe 445-6Ravenswood 400Ravine des Casoars 761Red Centre Way 49, 887-9Red Rock 179Redbank Gorge 886Remarkable Rocks 760Renmark 773-4Renner Springs 867reptiles 1051Richmond 644-5road rules 1089Robe 762-4rock art 1043-4, see
also Aboriginal artCanberra 273New South Wales 67Northern Territory 823,
841, 843-4, 848, 851, 853, 855, 862, 864, 895
Queensland 278, 441, 468
South Australia 797, 798Victoria 551, 553Western Australia 971,
972, 987, 998, 1018, 1019, 1020, 1022
Rockhampton 366-8Rockingham 937Rocks, the 75-6, 78-9Roebourne 999Roper Bar 866Roper Highway 866Rosevears 677Ross 657-8Ross River 885Ross River fever 1065, 1071Rottnest Island 932-7, 934Roxby Downs 801Royal Botanic Gardens,
Melbourne 491Royal Botanic
Gardens, Sydney 76Royal Exhibition
Building 490Royal Flying Doctor Service
Base 873Royal National Park 133-4Rudd, Kevin 1028, 1040,
Park 614soccer 737, 1060Sorell 654Sorrento 530-1Sorry Day 1040, 1040South Australia 710-806,
712-13accommodation 710activities 714-15climate 710highlights 712-13history 711tourist information 715tours 715travel to/from 715-16travel within 715-16
South Australian Museum 717
South Molle Island 393South West Rocks 168-70Southport 318-20Southwest National Park
708, 2spiders 1064-5sports 19, 264, 487,
1060-2, see also individual sports
Springbrook National Park 328
Standley Chasm 886Stanley 693-4Stanthorpe 343-5State Library of Victoria
483Steep Point 984St Helens 667-8St Marys 666-7stingers 1064Stirling 742-3Stirling Range National
Park 960Stokes Bay 759Stolen Generations 1046Stone Hut 794Strahan 697-700Strathgordon 708-9Streaky Bay 791stromatolites 983Strzelecki Track 49, 806Stuarts Well 890Sturt National Park 239Sunshine Coast 329-42,
330Surfers Paradise 320-4,
322surfing 54-5, 1061
Agnes Water 363
Bells Beach 540Blackfellows 790-1Burleigh Heads 325Byron Bay 186Coffs Harbour 176Gold Coast 321Goolwa 751Innes National Park 785Kangaroo Island 752Lancelin 972Margaret River 945Maroochy 339New South Wales 69Perth 911Port Elliot 749Port Lincoln 788Port Macquarie 164Queensland 280-1Robe 763Surfers Paradise 320Sydney 99Tasmania 623Torquay 539Western Australia 905Wollongong 243
Surfleet Cove 790Swan Hill 562-3Swan Reach 769Swansea 661-3swimming 1061
Queensland 281safety 1064Sydney 99Tasmania 623
Sydney 70-133, 72-3, 80, 82-3, 85, 86-7, 90, 134
accommodation 103-8activities 98-9children, travel with 100drinking & nightlife 114,
Wallace Rockhole 887Wallaroo 784Walls of Jerusalem
National Park 684Walpa Gorge 896Walpole 952-4Walpole-Nornalup National
Park 953Wangaratta 586-7Wangi Falls 839Warren Conservation
Park 778Warrnambool 547-8
Warrumbungle National Park 204
Washpool National Park 201
Watarrka National Park 888-9
water, drinking 1071-2Waterhouse River 865Wave Rock 971weather 22, 29-32, 1049,
1053, see also individual regions
Weetootla Gorge 800weights 1067Weipa 469Wentworth 231-2West MacDonnell National
Park 885-6West MacDonnell Ranges
885-7West Terrace Cemetery 24Western Australia 19,
901-1026, 902-3, 940, 952-3, 990-1
accommodation 901activities 905climate 901food 901highlights 902-3history 904, 1036tourist information 906tours 905-6travel to/from 906travel within 906-7
Western Australian Museum – Albany 956
Western Australian Museum – Geraldton 977
Western Australian Museum – Kalgoorlie-Boulder 966
Western Australian Museum – Maritime 927
Western Australian Museum – Perth 910
Western River Cove 759Wet Cave 768whale watching 30, 57,
1051, 1055Coffs Harbour 176Hervey Bay 355New South Wales 69Ningaloo Marine Park 997Perth 911Queensland 275South Australia 714-15Sydney 101Warrnambool 547Western Australia 905
1049-51, 1054-5, see also birdwatching, whale watching, zoos
Great Barrier Reef 37-42New South Wales 63, 169Northern Territory
811, 837Queensland 275Victoria 527
William Creek 805Williamstown 497Willunga 746-7Wilpena Pound 797Wilson Island 363Wilsons Promontory
National Park 16, 607-9, 608, 16
wine regions 26-7, 1059Adelaide 721Adelaide Hills 740-4, 741Barossa Valley 774-9,
775, 18Canberra 272Clare Valley 779-83Coal River Valley 645Coonawarra 766-7Granite Belt 343Hunter Valley 145-9Kangaroo Island 755-6Margaret River 943-8McLaren Vale 714, 744-6Mudgee 213New South Wales 69Orange 207Queensland 281Rutherglen 567South Australia 18, 714Tasmania 623-4
1106
indEX W
-Z
wine regions continuedWagga Wagga 227Western Australia 904-5Yarra Valley 526-8
Wineglass Bay 663wineries, see wine regionsWinton 376-8Wodonga 569Wolfe Creek Meteorite
Aquarium 264Rockhampton Zoo 366Royal Melbourne Zoo 491Werribee Open Range
Zoo 501WILD LIFE Sydney Zoo 85
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
10921092
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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:Sylvie Addor, Melissa-Kate Ashwell-Meijer, Dennis Balemans, Bettina Bergmann-Remy, Aida Bour, Nicola Broderick, Nico Bryant-Stevens, Raymond Chan, Jane Coffey, Patricia Collé, Nicolas Combremont, Florian Cottez, Colin Davies, Richard Devlin, Anke Dijkstra, Silvia Disch, Missy Dugan, Lacroix Elodie, Maurici Espinar, Robert Eustace, Orly Flax, Stephen Gates, Sarah Hatherell, Len Kirby, Yero Kuethe, Irina Kulina, Ellen Lemson, Jane Luckraft, Megan Mann, Jeroen Martens, Molly Massingham, Bruce McKay, Javier Mendez, Charlotte Middleton, Erica Minarik, Dagmar Moehring, Domitille Motte, Konrad Nerger, Kim Niggemeyer, Kim Price, Christian Proulx, Summer Read, Michael Reeves, Ilona Renwick, Bo Rud Nielsen, Elisabeth Schiske, Marianne Schmid, Trevor Scott, Rob Sea-bourne, Justyn Shaw, Stine Skovgaard, Kevin Smythe, Heather Stafford, Johanna Teich-mann, Steve Tervet, Marie Umbricht, Corrine Van Vliet, Jeroen van Heeren, Melissa Verrier Daunais, Timothy Wei, Alastair Weston, Jay Wiener, Malcolm Wilcock, Pennie Williams, Hansie Wong
AUTHOR THANKS
Charles-Rawlings WayHuge thanks to Maryanne for the gig, and to our highway-addled coauthors, who covered a helluva lot of kilometres in search of the per-fect review. Thanks also to the all-star inhouse LP production staff, and in Brisbane thanks to Christian, Lauren, Rachel, Brett and all the kids. Special thanks as always to Meg, my road-trippin’ sweetheart, and our daughters Ione and Remy who provided countless laughs, unscheduled pitstops and ground-level per-spectives along the way.
Meg WorbyThank you Maryanne, for the gig! Big ups to the in-house team at LP for turning our many weeks of exploration into a useful thing you can hold in your hand. In Brisbane: huge thanks to Lauren, Christian, Orlando, Ilaria and friends for great company and insider tips. To our little daughters, Ione and Remy, it was the smoothest trip yet – nice work pulling your own suitcases! Love, as ever, to Charles – away and at home, you make hard work seem easy.
Brett AtkinsonThanks to the keen and professional staff at WA’s visitor centres who smoothed the way for information gathering, allowing me to focus on
Behind the Scenes
1093bEH
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the vital task of taste testing the craft brew-eries of Margaret River. In Perth, thanks to Amanda Keenan for the pre-trip hit list. Spe-cial thanks to my fellow scribe Steve Waters, and also to the Lonely Planet inhouse team, especially Maryanne Netto for her support. Final thanks to Carol for holding the fort back home in Auckland.
Lindsay BrownThanks to Lizzie and Phoebe in Alice, and Jenny, Sinead and Pat at home. Cheers to all the national parks rangers that put up with my questions and the great staff at all the Northern Territory visitor centres. Finally, thanks to Meg, Charles and Maryanne for getting this whole show on the road.
Jayne D’ArcySharik D’Arcy – you’ve done it again. Thanks for making all this possible and for letting me take little Ruby and big Miles on the adven-ture. Thanks for coming along, too. Thanks Miles for reminding me how cool koalas and penguins are! Dave Carswell, James Smith and Matt Holden, kudos for sharing your Melbourne with me, and all the wonderful folk who made travelling a joy. Thanks to my coauthor Paul, and Maryanne for commis-sioning me.
Anthony HamThanks to Maryanne Netto for sending me to such wonderful places, to David Andrew for so many wise wildlife tips and to every person I met along the road – from knowledgeable and patient tourist office staff to other travel-
lers. Thanks to Ron and Jan for their infinite hospitality and patience. And to Marina, Carlota and Valentina – home is wherever you are.
Paul HardingThanks to those who put me up or helped with tips and advice. Brian, Kerry, Martyn and Braidyn in Swan Hill; Matt, Simone, Xavier and Remy in Yack; Chad, Kylie, Amy, Parker Will; Phil, Ashleigh and Dan in central Vic; mum and dad in Castlemaine. Thanks to co-author Jayne. But mostly to my occasional travel partners, Hannah and Layla.
Shawn LowThanks always to the crew at LP. Maryanne for opening the door and Charles and Meg for illuminating the path through it. Of course, thanks to the production staff, the heart of everything LP! Cheers to innumerable travellers I met on the road: your tips, com-pany and advice were much appreciated. Of course, thanks to Wyn for being so amazing.
Virginia MaxwellMany thanks to Maryanne Netto, Diana von Holdt, Charles Rawlings-Way, Meg Worby, Elizabeth Maxwell, Matthew Clarke, Bridget Smyth, Christopher Procter, Peter Handsaker and Max Handsaker.
Tom SpurlingThanks to Maryanne Netto for getting me to go around again. High fives to Bob and Bulldog for their political wisdom and for reminding me of my roots. To Adam D and
THIS BOOKLonely Planet’s guide to Australia was first published in 1977, when the company’s cofounder Tony Wheeler covered the entire country on his own. In the 36 years since then we’ve sent literally hundreds of authors around Australia to check every dusty nook and cranny of the world’s largest island for Lonely Planet guidebooks. This 17th edition of the Australia guide com-bined the efforts of 11 fabulous Lonely Planet writers. To see who did what, see Our Writers (p1112). We’d also like to thank the following people for their contributions to this guide: Dr Michael Cathcart, Dr Tim Flannery and Cathy Craigie. Andrew Tudor wrote the Where
to Surf section in the Aus-tralia Outdoors chapter. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office, and produced by the following:Commissioning Editor Maryanne NettoCoordinating Editor Alison RidgwaySenior Cartographers Julie Sheridan, Diana Von HoldtCoordinating Layout Designer Carlos SolarteManaging Editors Barbara Delissen, Martine PowerManaging Layout Designer Chris GirdlerAssisting Editors Susie Ashworth, Penny Cordner, Andrea Dobbin, Lauren Hunt, Anne Mason, Alan Murphy,
Jenna Myers, Kirsten Rawlings, Gabbi Stefanos Assisting Cartographers Enes Bašić, Fatima Bašić, Jeff Cameron, Mick Garrett, Corey HutchisonInternal Image Research Kylie McLaughlinThanks to Sasha Baskett, Nicholas Colicchia, Brigitte Ellemor, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Jane Hart, Martin Heng, Trent Holden, Errol Hunt, Genesys India, Jouve India, Ali Lemer, James Maffesconi, Katherine Marsh, Virginia Moreno, Catherine Naghten, Karyn Noble, Darren O’Connell, Trent Paton, Suzannah Shwer, Rebecca Skinner, Kerrianne Southway, Marg Toohey, Sam Trafford, Tasmin Waby, Gerard Walker, Jeanette Wall
1094
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d tHE scEn
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family for the mad pancakes. To Goose and Pop for hanging out Noosa-style. To all the Queenslanders who helped us along without any fuss. And to Lucy, Oliver and Poppy, who needs a holiday? Just keep on movin’. xo
Steve WatersThanks to Karen from RACWA for not hang-ing up, Mick for the tow, Leonie and Nev for beer and watermelons, Dave and Thuman of Djarindjin for the sand rescue, Travis for the drive shaft, John in the Subie for the WD40,
Colleen and Karen for dinner and great con-versation, Trace and Heath, Brodie, Abbidene, Meika and Kaeghan for EVERYTHING, Roz, Megan and Batty for caretaking, Friz and Ian for putting up with me, and the Bung-Bung crew for, well, Bung-Bung.