In Charm's Way - WWD

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In Charm’s WaySince First Lady Michelle Obama wore his gown to the inaugural

balls, the spotlight’s never shone brighter on Jason Wu. And if a recent studio visit is any indication, the designer seems to be taking it all in stride. In fact, Wu, who will show today,

was all smiles as he prepped models for his fairy-tale-themed presentation for fall. “We have to up it from last season,” he

said. For more on the collections, see pages 6 to 15.

Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • February 13, 2009 • $3.00

WWDFRIDAYBeauty

In Charm’s Way

Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • February 13, 2009 • $3.00

WWD

By Lisa LockwoodNEW YORK — As major department and specialty stores dominate the headlines with layoffs, budget cuts and markdowns, there’s one retail sector generally being overlooked: the little guy.

The latest to hit the wall is Georgina,

a high-end boutique with stores in Manhasset, N.Y., and Hewlett, N.Y., which is closing up shop at the end of the month.

Small, independent boutiques like Georgina that for years have nurtured — and in many cases introduced —

designer talent are rapidly disappearing in the credit crunch and deepening recession. The last few months alone have seen the closings of such iconic designer stores as Linda Dresner in Manhattan and Tracey Ross in Los Angeles. Many of these boutiques are

Designer Retail Squeeze: Georgina Joins Growing List of Closures

See Independents, Page 22

NEW YORK

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By Melissa Drier

BERLIN — Damiano Biella is no longer creative director of Escada. In a reorganization of the company’s design and brand management structure, Bettina

Hammerl, director of brand management for Escada, is taking over the direction of the collec-tion’s design team.

Biella will continue to work with the German fashion house as a consultant, a spokeswoman said. He was not available for comment Thursday.

At the same time, Ilka Bennewitz, who recently joined Escada as director of brand management for Escada Sport and licenses, will now head up those two respective design departments.

The changes reflect a desire to more clearly differentiate between the Escada and Escada Sport collections, the spokeswoman said.

Biella joined the German fashion house in fall 2006 in the new position of creative director, re-placing former Escada chief designer Brian Rennie.

By Miles Socha

PARIS — A consummate shop-per, Karl Lagerfeld will take bricks over clicks any day.

“I like the physical contact with the goods,” said the peri-patetic designer, who earlier this week met with European competition commissioner Neelie Kroes, who is mulling loosening restrictions on on-line selling of luxury goods. “There is something unexcit-ing about buying something exciting online.”

With help from his per-sonal secretary, bodyguard and sometime Chanel model Sébastien Jondeau, Lagerfeld said he frequently buys CDs and books from the likes of Amazon.com, but he prefers to rifle the racks himself at Paris stores like Colette or Dior Homme. “And I still like bookshops, and not because I have one,” he said, referring

to his 7L shop, which specializes in photo books, on the Rue de Lille here. (He is also a famous habitué of Galignani on the Rue de Rivoli.)

Lagerfeld said he spent about two hours with Kroes in Brussels, telling her luxury companies reserve the right to selective distribution agree-ments, which prevent products from being sold in unforeseen channels. He also reminded her that “they sell so many fakes [online]. There’s so many legal questions.”

Moreover, he told her there’s no need to fix what isn’t broke. “I think there’s no urgency,” he told WWD. “In a moment of crisis, it is not the time to change things that are working.”

In Lagerfeld’s estimation, “it’s still to early” to effec-tively sell luxury fashions on-line, because supreme qual-ity, craftsmanship, tailoring and sophistication cannot be effectively conveyed. “An H&M dress and a Chanel dress can look the same in a small photo, but not in real life,” he said.

Just clicking also drains the joy out of shopping, he said. “When you buy in a shop, you buy what you dis-cover, what you might have had no intention of buying.”

But “for markdowns and for sales, it’s perfect,” Lagerfeld said.

By contrast, the designer is a fan of the Internet as a communications tool, know-ing people spend more and more time in front of screens. In fact, Lagerfeld, who directed a short film for Chanel’s Paris-Moscow métiers d’art collection last December, said he just wrapped another minimovie

for another of Chanel’s pre-fall collections.“I call it ‘Fitting Room Follies,’” he said,

describing scenes of models Lara Stone and Baptiste Giabiconi cavorting in the cabin for his camera.

Kroes, who personally escorted Lagerfeld to his car after their meeting — he was heading to Rome for Fendi fittings — has also met with rep-resentatives from LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Compagnie Financière Richemont.

Escada Restructures, Hammerl Takes Design Reins

Lagerfeld Defends Selective Distribution

WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.VOLUME 197, NO. 32. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in April, June and August, three additional issues in March and September, and four additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

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8FASHIONA look behind the scenes as designers around New York put the finishing touches on their collections with fashion week fast approaching.

GENERALAs major department and specialty stores domi-nate the headlines with layoffs, budget cuts and markdowns the little guy’s plight is overlooked.At Escada, Bettina Hammerl, director of brand management for Escada, is taking over the direc-tion of the collection’s design team. After months of delays, the British fast-fashion retailer Topshop, owned by Sir Philip Green, will unveil its first U.S. store on April 2.Donna Karan is making an aggressive foray into men’s fragrance with the spring launch of DKNY Men, its first stand-alone men’s scent.Revlon Inc.’s fourth-quarter profits fell 72.3 per-cent to $11.3 million, as sales dipped 0.5 percent to $334.2 million, but its net improved in 2008.Retail sales showed some resilience in January, notably at specialty stores, but economists expect more tough times ahead for merchants.Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin found German designer labels countering recessionary woes with an extra dose of fashion for next fall.

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“I love design and I love fashion and I’m not

making people happy anymore. They’re nervous and it’s not fun.” — Christina Georgina Makowsky, owner of

Georgina on Long Island, which is closing. Page one.

QUOTEDAILY

• More reviews and images from the New York fall shows• Additional photos from last-minute preparations for the season

• Beauty Roundup: Feb. 13, 2009• Backstage Beauty from Monique Lhuillier

• Global breaking news

TODAY ON

.comWWD“I like the physical contact with the

goods. There is something unexciting about buying something exciting online.”— Karl Lagerfeld

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NEW YORK — Topshop finally has a date.After months of delays due to construction and permit problems, the

British fast-fashion retailer owned by Sir Philip Green will unveil its first U.S. store here on April 2, WWD has learned. The 40,000-square-foot store is located at 478 Broadway and will carry all the Topshop col-lections for women, as well as the Topman label for men.

Green will unveil details of the store and its launch at a press con-ference at the Gramercy Park Hotel Roof Club and Garden on Monday. There also will be a party for Topman hosted by Amy Sacco at Bungalow 8 on Sunday night.

The Manhattan flagship originally was scheduled to open last fall, but Green put the brakes on that plan in September during a visit to the site. Construction was hit by delays in getting permits from the city, tweaks to the original design and building hurdles, such as the time it took to order and receive the escalators. “It has nothing to do with the economy,” Green said at the time. “This is totally to do with the com-plexity of this project.

“This has been a logistical nightmare,” he added. “America is a new territory for us and we have to get it exactly right. This store can’t be a nine out of 10 when it opens; it has to be a 10 out of 10.”

At that time Green planned to open in mid-March, but the date has slipped slightly since then. But Green continues to expand Topshop ag-gressively elsewhere in the world, opening a trial store in Japan as well as additional units in the U.K.

Topshop’s First U.S. Opening Finalized

Lala Berlin

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WWD.COMWWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 20094

By Marc Karimzadeh

NEW YORK — After some extensive con-struction, Ports 1961 is finally ready to bring its eclectic spirit to New York.

On Saturday, the fashion label, which was founded here in 2004, is slated to open its New York fl agship at 3 Ninth Avenue, in the Meatpacking District.

This is Ports 1961’s second store after the first opened on Melrose Place in West Hollywood last year. Creative director Tia Cibani said New York was supposed to open before Los Angeles, but the project took longer to complete due to struc-tural challenges and ad-ditional construction.

Over the past few months, the company has been restoring the 150-year-old building with architect Michael Gabellini, who is per-haps best known for creating the retail look for Jil Sander when the namesake designer was still there. The Ports 1961 store has a 31-foot display window along Gansevoort Street, offering a view into the interior features such as twisted nickel bars, fl oating Lucite shelves and American walnut fl oors.

Cibani said her favorite feature is a fl oor-to-ceiling skylight — a carved-out, outdoor space created through giant glass panels. It will have a polished stainless steel ground that refl ects all colors of the sky. “There was originally a garden in the back, so we wanted more interior space but didn’t want to lose the element of hav-ing some type of outdoor space,” she said.

The building is next to favorite Meatpacking District haunt 5 Ninth. The former house’s second fl oor will be used as a gallery and event space, starting on April 22, when the brand marks the launch of a

new book by artist Kenny Scharf.The store opening marks a new chap-

ter in the history of the company, which has its origins in Canadian brand Ports International. “After this store, the plan is to really build the shop-in-shops in spe-cialty stores,” Jacqui Wenzel, Ports 1961’s president and head of U.S. operations, said. “We have the stage to merchandise the collection with all its layering.

“I think it will help fur-ther our better department store business, because they can see Tia’s entire vision,” Wenzel added. In the U.S. the line is sold to almost 200 stores including Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Stanley Korshak in Dallas. Wenzel said first-year sales projections for the New York boutique are “at least $1 million.”

The store will also offer a mix of books, music and art objects that inspire Cibani. “It’s important you sell more than just clothes,” Wenzel said. “That joy of shopping is still there and, in this cli-mate, you have to make

sure you have items under $100.”One of the interior features is a large

patina brass table with a glass top by the late Jay Smith that at one time stood inside Linda Dresner’s recently shuttered boutique on Park Avenue. Wenzel once worked as the buyer for Dresner. “Its kind of like getting married…something old, something new and something borrowed,” Wenzel said.

The third fl oor of the building will serve as Cibani’s design studio. “I think I will be in the store a lot,” Cibani said. “I like the idea to come down and mess with the window and redress the mannequins, and be part of the culture of the store, come down and say ‘hi’ to the customer. I think it’s nice to have that chance, be-cause it’s not often you get to be so close to the customer.”

By David Lipke

ROBERT GELLER WAS NAMED THE winner of GQ’s Best New Menswear Designer in America competition for 2009, receiving a cash prize of $50,000 and the opportunity to create a limited edition capsule collection for Levi’s that will be sold on levi.com and at select Bloomingdale’s lo-cations this September. The program is a partnership with the Council of Fashion Designers of America.

Geller beat out fellow fi nalists André Benjamin of Benjamin Bixby, Alex Carleton of Rogues Gallery, David Mullen of Save Khaki, Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos of Shipley & Halmos and Yigal Azrouël. All six fi nalists were feted at a party at Rockefeller Center on Wednesday evening, where each designer out-fi tted a tableaux vivant of top male models in their fall ’09 collections.

On hand to check out the displays were fellow designers, including Tommy Hilfi ger, Kenneth Cole, John Bartlett, Calvin Klein’s Italo Zucchelli, Peter Som, Johan Lindeberg, Rachel Roy, David Chu, Michael Bastian, Scott Sternberg of Band of Outsiders, Steven Alan, John Whitledge of Trovata, Scott Morrison of Earnest Sewn and Philip Crangi. Also spotted in the large crowd was David Lauren (sporting a leg brace), Katie Lee Joel and Chace Crawford of “Gossip Girl.”

Asked what he would do with the cash award, Geller said he would invest in the future of the collection. “I’m going to put it right back into the company, and make sure I have a nice presentation next season,” he said. “I’m really happy with how things are going, but the money will be great to help make sure that it can continue.”

Geller isn’t a stranger to industry accolades, as he was a partner for fi ve seasons with Alexandre Plokhov in the now-defunct, but once celebrated Cloak men’s wear label. He launched the Robert Geller men’s wear label in fall 2007, and it is now sold in about 60 stores including Odin, Kesner, Jake and Lane Crawford.

The judging panel for the GQ prize was comprised of designer Thom Browne; Steve Evans, vice president of merchandising at Levi’s; Kevin Harter, vice presi-dent of fashion direction for men’s, home and young world at Bloomingdale’s; Steven Kolb, executive director of the CFDA; Jim Nelson, editor in chief of GQ, and Jim Moore, creative director of GQ.

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By Sharon Edelson

NEW YORK — Matthew Williamson’s new 2,600-square-foot flagship at 415 West 14th Street in the Meatpacking District here could make a person forget the world is in the grips of a recession.

The Prussian blue-hued VIP room with its light box installation comprised of fuchsia, royal blue, turquoise and white fl uorescent bulbs coursing be-hind a glass frame, recalls a high-end disco circa 1980. “It’s a moment of pure indulgent extravaganza,” Williamson said. “It was inspired by a Nick Knight image.” The dressing room is lined with hand-painted de Gournay silk-backed wallpaper designed by Williamson and covered with vintage brooches.

Then there’s the 64-square-foot glass-encased tropical garden. The fuchsia hot house fl owers blooming inside are not unlike Williamson’s delicate, exotic de-signs hanging nearby. But the garden is something of an illusion. Daylight fi lters above the plants look like a skylight. And the greenery? “It’s all fake,” he said. “I call it English meets tropical. My work is quite known for its escapist quality. A woman needs a reason to buy, especially in this envi-ronment. At the end of the day, it’s all about seduction. I think the garden will enhance the selling space.”

Prices for the collection range from $400 for a skirt to $6,000 for a full-length sequin backless dress.

Joseph Velosa, chief executive offi cer, declined to dis-close volume projections for the Meatpacking unit, the designer’s fi rst store in the U.S., but said the Matthew Williamson fl agship in London does sales of about $2 million a year. The New York store opens Monday, with a kickoff party Sunday night. Williamson’s runway show for fall is scheduled for Tuesday.

Williamson conceded the store’s timing is less than perfect. “This project was two years in the making,” the designer said. “It was committed to before anyone had any knowledge of what would happen.”

The store is a validation of sorts, recognizing Williamson’s following here. His name recognition is ex-pected to grow in April when the designer creates men’s and women’s collections for H&M, which will carry the line in 1,700 of its stores. Previous designer collabora-tions bowed in just about 200 stores. Designing men’s wear for H&M “has also inspired me to think about men’s wear,” Williamson said. “Maybe the blue [VIP] room will

become a men’s wear room.” He continues to grow his accesso-

ries, shoe and handbags businesses, which have expanded to include full collections for each category. A “pod” or large alcove opposite the VIP room is painted blush pink and displays products alongside carved wood bird-cages on shelves lit from within.

“It’s an opportunity to show the American market what I do as a de-signer in a controlled space,” he said of the unit. “It has a lot of passion in it. I hope you understand the DNA of the brand as opposed to walking into [a small area] in a department store.”

Clare Ceprynski, Williamson’s image director, cut the long rectangu-lar space, which was formerly a Bodum store, on the diagonal and built pods or small round rooms off the main aisle. The main areas of the store are divid-ed into circular and egg-shaped areas, delineated by gold strips embedded in the concrete fl oor. A Chinese pink polished plaster wall at the front of the store looks like suede. The rest room walls are covered with a collage of images – photos, pages of books and

magazines – of Hollywood icons. A similar wall of fame exists in the London fl agship.

“Gwyneth Paltrow once came out and said, ‘I’ve just been in the bathroom looking at myself on the wall. It was kind of freaky’” Williamson recalled.

He and Velosa maintain a majority interest in the company. Baugur, the embattled Icelandic investment fi rm, owns 26 percent and TSM, 22 percent. The compa-ny is opening stores in Dubai and Kuwait in the spring. “We’ve put the plans for the Los Angeles store on hold for the moment,” Williamson said. “But it’s defi nitely part of the plan.”

Williamson to Open New Manhattan Flagship

Ports 1961 Launching in N.Y.Geller Picked in GQ Contest

A view of the central skylight feature.

The tropical garden lends tranquility and exoticism to the store.

Robert Geller

7th on Sixth’s Fern Mallis and Tommy Hilfi ger

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6 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2009

New York Fall ’09Rachel Roy

Monique Lhuillier

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For additional reviews and images from fall RTW, see WWD.com

Monique Lhuillier: “I wanted to play up the layers and textures that I usually work with, but add a darker edge,” Monique Lhuillier said of her 12-piece lineup (dresses, of course, plus one sharp gray suit trimmed in horsehair). Lhuillier, who styled for that edgy impact with shredded tights worn as leotards, piled on the embellishments, from organza florets to embroidered lace over ombré tulle, to whimsical effect. But the real treats were the jersey numbers: two black columns with sexy cutouts and a draped bordeaux silk jersey gown with a black sash. While the workmanship of Lhuillier’s party dresses was evident, as with the corsetry peeking out from a few sheer cocktail dresses, the less structured gowns proved Lhuillier’s versatility for buyers in these party-light times.

Rachel Roy: Rachel Roy’s fall attitude? Power through it. She filled her presentation with an “army” of elegant women, their ammunition: chic. Though she could have done without the uniform wigs and black lips, à la Saint Laurent last fall, Roy kept her message crystal clear via monochromatic looks in a cool palette of ivory, pale yellow, ice blue, gray and black and a single marble print. The calm colors felt modern and were paired with sharp architectural touches — peaked shoulders and cutout dresses — for a quiet confidence. And while the clothes were about strength and power, there was no shortage of sex appeal, as in bustier tops and lingerie layered under sheer pieces for a peekaboo effect, revealing a woman’s softer side.

Jenni Kayne: Who said basics are a bore? Certainly not Jenni Kayne, who gave the Eighties power suit a heady dose of panache. Suiting separates leaned toward mannish but were transformed with elaborately embroidered and studded sleeves or silk-trimmed edges, while dresses ranged from the simplest

of silk frocks to a cocktail number sprouting caviar beads and ostrich feathers.

Loris Diran: Loris Diran’s rich collection featured razor-sharp classic tailoring in clean wool suits and dresses perfect for the Wall Street

set. But more risky pieces, like a cashmere and mink coat with layered panels, offered a new, hip undertone that may appeal to the young patrons

of his recently opened boutique on the Bowery.

Tse: For the house’s 20th anniversary, Tse took its signature cashmere in the most avant direction yet, with long and lean silhouettes, such as sarong skirts layered over unitards and draped capes, that were cool and at times complicated.

Jillian Lewis: “Project Runway” alum Jillian Lewis looked close to home for inspiration — Long Island City, to be exact — and sent out a fine collection that balanced her Edwardian sensibility with edgier touches, like graffiti prints on blazers and cable-knit patterns meant to mimic railroad tracks.

6119 Ilana Sunderland: Fit is key for Ilana Sunderland and for her second season she turned out a collection of architecture-inspired dresses, most notable among them a pleated leather and silk version.

Vicente Villarin: Joanne Cordero Reyes has a knack for designing beautiful, delicate dresses and frothy gowns, but her somewhat awkward attempt at separates proved that she should stick to what she does best.

Geren Ford: Chaos, sex, adventure — they all played a part in Geren Lockhart’s cool collection via frenetic prints, exaggerated hardware and plenty of separates in black leather and wool.

LAunChIng A LuxuRy CoLLECTIon In these times may cause one to wince: Can retailers be enchanted enough to buck the budget and, if not, can the designer tough it out? In the case of Bibhu Mohapatra, one can only hope. The 35-year-old India native is no rookie. While a student at F.I.T., he worked at halston and, after graduating, joined J.Mendel, where he polished his skills for eight years; the last five as the house’s design director.

Mohapatra fits into the cult of luxury designers, favoring dressed-up styles that are

at once ladylike and edgy with remarkable attention to construction and detail. “I find that women are best in looks that bring out both their natural beauty and inner self. It is intriguing to me to see that each one has an individual style and my goal is to contribute to and enhance that.”

In a collection of 20 looks, wholesaling from $280 to $9,000 for a mink coat, Mohapatra includes a smattering of separates along with coats, dresses and gowns, which, while cerebral in concept, have a romantic flair. Inspired by Frank gehry’s floating effects and 18th-century Japanese warriors, the designer layers shapes to “protect and flatter,” not just decorate. A slender broadtail coat, for instance, has a cashmere draped back panel; an exquisitely pleated silk dress is anchored with drawstrings and stainless steel straps. And spare but no less beautiful are the Iris mink contoured coat and drapey short gray silk mousseline cocktail dress. Mohapatra faces a big challenge at the moment, but his sure hand positions him well.

WWD.COM7WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2009

more from the shows...TseJillian

Lewis

6119 Ilana Sunderland

Vicente Villarin Geren Ford

High LifeFaLL IS noT FoR ThE TImId, oR So IT SEEmEd FRom ThE STRonG, SoPhISTICaTEd LookS, whEThER In STRuCTuREd PIECES, CooL PaLETTES oR dRESSES

RadIaTInG a SExy, daRk mood.

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PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINOTALAYA CENTENOKYLE ERICKSENTHOMAS IANNACCONE ROBERT MITRA

PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINOTALAYA CENTENOKYLE ERICKSENTHOMAS IANNACCONE ROBERT MITRA

Photo FinishIt’s down to the last-minute stretch for New York designers, and WWD caught them at the 11th hour, prepping, primping and even taking a breakfast break.

All about sleeve with Alexander Wang.

Charlotte Ronson gets her glove on.

Brian Reyes’ stingray beauty.

Derek Lam’s trim shot.

Carolina Herrera’s dog day afternoon.


NEW YORK



All smiles at Oscar de la Renta.

Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig spin some silk at Marchesa.

Michael Bastian

rocks on.

Michael Bastian

rocks on.

Diane von Furstenberg’s animal instincts.Diane von Furstenberg’s animal instincts.Gilles Mendel gets into a purple haze at J.Mendel.


NEW YORK



Simon Spurr’s fitting moment at Spurr.

I see Anna Sui…

The sound of music at Zero + Maria Cornejo.

Story time at Vena Cava with Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock.

Fitted and ready at Elie Tahari.

Tuned in at Lacoste.

Tommy Hilfiger takes a moment.

WWD.COM11WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 13,2009

Suiting up at Calvin Klein with Italo Zucchelli.

Dennis Basso’s hot fuzz.

Model behavior

at 3.1 Phillip Lim.


For more images from last-minute

preparations for the fall season go to

WWD.com

Duckie Brown’s crowning glory.Olé! at Zac Posen.

Cynthia Rowley rings in the Nasdaq — and raises her staff’s spirits.

Relief: The shoes arrive at Behnaz Sarafpour.


NEW YORK



Betsey in brights, models in black.Richie Rich and

Lydia Hearst,

together again.

Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa, dark and light.

Nicole Miller gets made up.

Rag & Bone tips its hats.

Robert Geller shows his colors.


Toryflage with Tory Burch.

Marcella Lindberg with stripes, no stars, at William Rast.

Marcella Lindberg with stripes, no stars, at William Rast.

Patrick Ervell in the hood.

Alessandro Satori’s marching orders at Z Zegna.

Waist management at Gilded Age.Girls — and boys — with Band of Outsiders’ Scott Sternberg.

Sew it goes at Corpus. Tim Hamilton’s next top models.Tim Hamilton’s next top models.

Swatch watch at Adam Lippes.


NEW YORK



Michael Kors strikes a pose.

Richard Chai’s finishing touch.

Behind her back at Rachel Roy.

Rebecca Taylor’s sew-

called life.

Yigal Azrouël’s

plaid dream.

Yigal Azrouël’s

plaid dream.

VPL’s Victoria Bartlett wraps it up.

Tuleh’s Bryan

Bradley takes a

breakfast break.

Tuleh’s Bryan

Bradley takes a

breakfast break.


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The Beauty Report

Beauty Report Double

By Matthew W. Evans

Donna Karan is maKing an aggressive foray into men’s fra-grance with the launch for spring of DKny men, the brand’s first stand-alone men’s scent.

and, in a twist regarding the advertising campaign for the scent’s late february-early march launch, DKny is pulling off a model redux — mark vanderloo, 39, who represented DKny men’s fashion in the nineties, will front DKny men in the ad effort.

“my design approach has always been about the senses,” stated Donna Karan. “DKny men is all about the man and the city. it takes a certain kind of guy to live and thrive in new york [and] i wanted a scent to speak to his unique style and strength. that is why we chose mark vanderloo to represent both DKny fashion and fragrance. He embodies the DKny man.”

said mark Weber, chairman and chief executive officer of Donna Karan international, “We’ve built a loyal following among young urban men with success in men’s clothing, furnishings, sportswear and jeans. fragrance is a natural extension, completing the picture as a lifestyle and as a business.” He added, “the DKny fragrance franchise ranks top 10 in key markets around the world, so there is room for growth and unlimited potential.

“By positioning DKny men as a stand-alone men’s scent,” he continued, “we are telling our customer that our male consumer is important to us and that growing the DKny men’s fragrance business is a priority.”

veronique gabai-Pinsky, president of aramis and Designer fragrances, a divi-sion of the estée Lauder Cos. inc., added, “We were looking for a pure masculine play for DKny, not to link it to women’s and not to link it to a masterbrand,” she said. she alluded to the fragrance brand’s modest men’s business, which includes a men’s scent within the Be Delicious collection. “[DKny men] gives us the op-portunity to expand our wings in the men’s fragrance arena,” she added. “We’ve built a successful women’s side and want to translate this into the men’s area.”

While executives declined to discuss sales projections, industry sources esti-mate that globally DKny men could generate some $60 million to $70 million in first-year retail sales volume, or about $15 million to $17.5 million in the U.s.

those sources added that more than $10 million would be spent to sup-port the advertising and promotional campaign featuring vanderloo. the na-tional print campaign, which will include single pages, spreads and scented strips, is slated to appear in the march issues of Details, gQ, vanity fair, men’s Health, out and Wired.

it prominently features the empire state and flatiron buildings and as part of the promotional campaign, personal appearances by vanderloo are possible.

Laird + Partners worked with aramis and Designer fragrances to final-ize the ad campaign, which was photographed by mikael Jansson. television spots are possible for the U.s. in the fall.

DKny men, a citrus, floral, woody scent, will be available in 3.4- 1.7- and 1-oz. versions for $65, $50 and $35, respectively. Lauder worked in collabora-tion with alberto morillas and Harry fremont of firmenich for more than a year to compose the scent, which includes notes of bergamot, mandarin, juniper and clary sage. the spicy heart of the fragrance has notes of white pepper, cardamom, violet leaves and wet jasmine, while the scent’s drydown releases notes of sandalwood, cedarwood, patchouli, orris and vetiver.

the DKny men project “gave us the chance to build from the ground up what would resonate with men, and the soul, power and sophistication of new york — the energy it evokes,” said trudi Loren, vice president of corpo-rate fragrance development worldwide for Lauder.

the bottle, which has a diamond shape when viewed from above, was designed to be a “reflection of the glass and steel of the city — the architecture of the build-ings,” noted gabai-Pinsky. (think new york’s original skyscraper.) the cap is com-prised of etched steel to be reminiscent of the austere sidewalks and metal of city streets. outer packaging features an iconic shot of the empire state Building.

the scent is intended to appeal mostly to guys ages 25 to 45 and will be carried in 2,200 U.s. doors, which represents the full distribution of DKny scents. retail outlets will include macy’s, Bloomingdale’s, Dillard’s, Belk, gottschalks and Boscov’s locations.

nars CosmetiCs is HeaDing DoWn tHe rUnWay of traveL retaiL.the brand has just opened its first-ever travel retail counter at John f. Kennedy

international airport in new york, and plans to add at least two more doors interna-tionally by spring’s end.

“our consumer is very urban and high end, very global — so this move makes a lot of sense for us,” said Louis Desazars, chief executive officer of nars. “it gives a lot more exposure to the brand globally.”

that said, Desazars plans to be selective in the markets in which the brand will open. “it has to be the right airport, with a strong local business, great space and great location,” he said. the next two doors, both in thailand, will open by the end of spring, and after that Desazars has his eye on the United Kingdom, Hong Kong and australia, just for starters.

“Down the road, we believe this will be a profitable channel,” said Desazars. “makeup always takes time to build as it’s very labor intensive, but we are meeting the goals that we have set.” While Desazars declined to be specific, industry sources esti-mated the travel retail business to represent some 5 percent of the brand’s global sales within the next two to three years, reaching 10 percent within five years.

the JfK nars counter, in terminal 7 and operated in partnership with Duty free americas, measures 114 square feet and includes nearly the whole nars range, said Desazars. Designed by open D and made of black lacquer and chrome, the fixturing and display cases are intended to convey the brand’s mod-ernism, he said. the store is open from 6 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. daily.

“introducing nars in terminal 7 at JfK is an ideal way to launch the brand in travel retail,” stated ariel gentzbourger, vice president of inter-national business for shiseido, which oversees nars travel retail. “the pas-senger mix is right and we are happy

with our partnership with Duty free americas and their acknowledgement of the po-tential for the brand. the introduction of nars in travel retail will add dynamism to the airport offering and will make it even more attractive.”

“shopping for luxury beauty items and gifts has become an integral part of being in a busy airport,” added françois nars, founder and creative director of nars.

“We hope to enhance the shopping experience and help travelers find the ultimate products to look and feel good while at 40,000 feet.”

speaking of flying high, nars himself is readying a return to runway makeup artistry: he will serve as key makeup artist for marc Jacobs’ fall 2009 ready-to-wear show monday evening.

“françois came back because of his relationship with marc — they have a strong mutual admiration for each other’s artistry,” said Desazars. “the last shows he did 10 years ago were marc’s. this season, marc wanted to emphasize the makeup for his show, and françois was his first thought. they are both modern, forward-thinking and very independent-minded, and are excited to work together again.

“françois is in a period where he has lots of ideas,” added Desazars. “He is very involved in the brand’s development and in working on celebrating the 15 years of this brand. the name nars will be heard more and more in the near future.”

— Julie Naughton

tHe fLeDgLing sKin Care BranD 3Lab is looking to crank up its business with expanded distribution and the introduction of two new products later this year.

the six-year-old niche brand is trying to develop a specialty for fusing cutting-edge ingredients and futuristic technology. as part of this drive, 3Lab will introduce a $300 antiaging product, super “h” serum, and a $55 Perfect Lite sunblock sPf 55 Pa+++, bring-ing the company’s product roster to 23 stockkeeping units.

“We are always looking at the most technologically advanced developments,” said company co-founder erica Chung, who created 3Lab with her husband, David, in 2003. “if better ingre-dients exist, we will reintroduce a product to incorporate them.”

the new super “h” serum is an improved version of 3Lab’s original “h” serum and centers on three key ingredients: a bioen-gineered growth hormone, nano-Claire gy, which acts as a type of hormone replacement therapy for aging skin by stimulating cell renewal; stem cells from an ex-tremely rare type of swiss apple, which have shown to reduce the appearance of wrinkles on the skin, and eUK 134, a powerful antioxidant that mimics natural skin enzymes, known to protect skin from sun damage.

the serum will launch exclusively at Barneys new york in may, followed by a

nationwide rollout in June before bow-ing in germany, turkey, selfridges in the U.K. and Harvey nichols in Hong Kong this september.

3Lab’s new sunscreen, the Perfect Lite sunblock sPf 55 Pa+++, will hit counters ev-erywhere in June and uses the Japanese rating system to mea-sure Uva protection. it aims to combat the signs of premature aging while defending against Uva and UvB rays.

“the brand overall is doing really well for us” said Bettina o’neill, vice president and divi-sional merchandise manager for women’s cosmetics and fragranc-es at Barneys new york. “their growth has been tremendous — over 70 percent for the year.”

3Lab executives declined to discuss sales figures, but industry sources estimate first-year com-bined sales projections of $4 mil-lion at retail for both products.

the company did say it plans to ramp up international distri-bution while strategically target-ing new channels in the U.s.

“We’re looking at quality inde-pendents in the U.s. and taking a hard look at the spa business here,” said 3Lab’s senior vice president,

robert stein. “We also want to open a nar-row and limited distribution in countries where we don’t currently have any — the key is conservative and proper distribution.”

— Gillian Koenig

DKNY in Men’s Fragrance Push

3Lab’s Technology to Hit Specialty Stores

Liftoff: Nars Heads to Travel Retail

3Lab Super “h” Serum.

Nars’ first travel retail counter.

DKNY Men

EvEn in a tough Economy, ySL BEautE iS dEtEr-mined to give the high-end beauty market a little lip this month — with the launch of gloss Pur lip gloss, its newest lip range. and the brand doesn’t plan to stop at the lips.

“We have seen double-digit growth in lip products and with fragrances, such as our L’homme, even in this tough economy,” said marc rey, chief executive officer and man-aging director of ySL Beauté in the u.S. “certainly, the economy is very tough and getting more so, and nobody is immune. But globally, we had a very good 2008 and were very positive in growth. according to nPd, we were up 5 percent globally, and the mar-ket was down 6.4 percent.” those figures do not include the brand’s sales on Qvc and in certain retailers who don’t par-ticipate in nPd, such as neiman marcus and certain online vendors, he noted.

“We have a strong pipeline of innova-tion for this coming year, of which gloss Pur is the first,” continued rey. “it is our aim this year to get market share, to do clever initiatives with our specialty store partners and look for ways to attract new customers. We are sticking to our values: no compromise with innovation or qual-ity, and maintaining a high level of in-vestment. We are choosing our battles.”

the gloss launch follows what the company described as the success-ful September launch of rouge volupté lipstick. “rouge volupté, in particular, has been a standout for us,” said rey. “the texture is amazing, the case is very luxurious — it has very high perceived value, and although it is not cheap, it is selling very well. our customer might not buy three lipsticks at once, but she will still buy one — because for $34 [for rouge volupté] she can still have that luxury.”

and rey is hoping consumers will have the same reaction to gloss Pur, which is a new variation on the brand’s top-sell-ing golden gloss. While golden gloss includes 24-karat gold flecks, gloss Pur, rolling out now, provides more of a glaze.

Six shades are offered, ranging from a sheer nude shade to a plum hue; each is lightly scented with mango. Each retails for $29 and, like all of ySL’s color cosmetics, is available in the brand’s approximately 300 Beauté doors in the u.S.

ySL Beauté launched a limited edition gloss Pur in black — showcased on models in the house’s ready-to-wear show for fall-winter 2008 — which sparked a boom of black lip shades in the market this past fall.

While rey is all for gaining new cus-tomers, he isn’t aiming to drastically in-crease the number of doors in the u.S. — although 30 Sephora locations were added to the brand’s door count last September. “We chose to add selected Sephora doors because Sephora tends to attract a different consumer than a neiman marcus or a Saks Fifth avenue; it will not cannibalize our business in those doors, but will bring the products to someone new,” he said. “We are also working closely with our specialty store doors to do clever initiatives with them.”

it’s been a busy year for ySL Beauté, which L’oréal acquired from PPr in may 2008 for 1.15 billion euros. in that deal, L’oréal also gained the licenses for the Stella mccartney, oscar de la renta, Boucheron and Ermenegildo Zegna beauty brands.

renaud de Lesquen, president of ySL Beauté globally, hinted to WWd in october that the ySL Beauté team hopes to launch a new skin care line by 2010 and an organic fragrance for Stella mccartney. “to me, ySL Beauté is a brand of surprises,” de Lesquen said at that time. “daring is the founding cornerstone of the ySL brand.”

as for worries about the economy, de Lesquen called the situation “a new adventure.”

“Everyone is conscious of the difficulties, but everyone is determined and very excited. We won’t let the gray envi-ronment pull us down,” he said.

— J.N.

makEuP artiSt michaEL marcuS, Who launched an eponymous color cosmetics line 10 years ago, has his eye on distribution expansion this year.

marcus hopes to double his distribution at dillard’s by fall. he anticipates that by summer of this year, the line could be carried at about a third of the retailer’s locations, or about 100 doors — and as many as 120 stores by fall.

marcus also will boost his color cosmetics as-sortment with the addition in april of a spring-

summer color story, which will swell the stock-keeping-unit count to 300 items.

“We are focusing on distribution in 2009 [and] we’re opening more doors this year,” said marcus, who counts some socialites and celebrities among his clients, and whose firm also produces a limited quantity of private label products.

the brand, which is based in dallas, generates as much as $7 million in annual retail sales vol-ume, according to industry sources.

the michael marcus line ranges in price from

$18 to $140 for reduce Line Filler. Lipsticks in the line go for $24 and eye shadows are priced at $18. in addition to skin care items and color cosmetics, the full michael marcus assortment includes make-up brushes, unisex fragrances and candles.

in addition to the color story, marcus will introduce in may several new products, includ-ing Soothing Botanical cleanser, $38 for 7 oz.; Firm throat gel, $80; Blemish control, $28, and vitamin E Lip Balm, $18. the new spring-sum-mer colors will have a tropical theme.

in addition to dillard’s, michael marcus is carried at takashimaya in new york.

— M.W.E.

Linda Cantello Joins Giorgio Armani BeautyWWD.COM

Michael Marcus items.

YSL’s spring offerings, including Gloss Pur.

giorgio armani BEauty haS namEd Linda cantello as its international makeup artist.

in her new role, cantello will help to develop color cos-metics products with armani’s beauty licensee, L’oréal, and will continue to serve as the key makeup artist at the designer’s ready-to-wear shows.

“there’s no limit and so much creativity with her on board,” said Stephane de la Faverie, general manager of giorgio armani Beauty, who de-clined comment on the terms of cantello’s contract. “i can’t wait to see all the amazing col-ors and textures that will come from Linda’s creative spirit.” de la Faverie said cantello will enhance the line and likely add more to the lip and eye catego-ries. “Linda will build upon and maintain the essence of the brand, which is foundation, but she’ll add such newness.”

cantello’s influence will be evident in products, which will hit counters this spring and fall, according to de la Faverie, who noted that despite the current financial climate, giorgio armani Beauty’s revenue continued to grow in 2008. “2009 will be a great new adven-ture,” said de la Faverie. “it is going to be more important than ever to innovate. People are still willing to spend when they are seduced by an exceptional product.”

and product development is nothing new to cantello: she launched her own eponymous color cosmetics collec-

tion in the spring of 2001. “For me, it’s like being a kid in a candy store,” she said of working in the L’oréal labs on the armani cosmetics. “i say ‘i want this,’ and five minutes later, i have it.”

cantello is now testing her first full-blown armani cre-ation, a lip-color line, expected to launch in october. her influence will likely be felt by the end of this spring, as she was involved in the creation of a few products set for a late-

spring launch, noted de la Faverie.cantello, who has done armani’s

shows the past four seasons and ad-mits to having kept “a half eye” on the line since its inception, said she looks forward to creating new con-cepts for the armani brand. “i want to make things that don’t exist,” she said. “there’s no point in doing some-thing that’s already been done.”

Since its launch in 2001, the brand has gone from two u.S. retail doors to around 100. de la Faverie said he hopes to continue expansion within

giorgio armani Beauty’s existing u.S. distribution at retailers like Saks Fifth avenue, Barneys new york, neiman marcus and Bloomingdale’s, while adding some specialty stores.

“We want to be the benchmark in luxury cosmetics,” said roberta girodot, international director of image and com-munications for giorgio armani Beauty. “Linda will bring all of her knowledge and expertise to the brand. She is a trend-setter and an amazing professional.”

— Gillian Koenig and Julie Naughton

Linda Cantello at work.

YSL Aims to Build Share With New Offerings

grouPE cLarinS iS aiming to BooSt itS clarins men business in the u.S. by 50 percent this year with the addition of five new facial skin care products.

two of the items are for the eyes, while the remaining three are for the face and neck — and the quintet could combine to generate al-most $2 million in retail sales in its first year on the market.

the items, which are set to launch in april, feature new formulations and packaging. typically, clarins men’s products have fea-tured white packaging, but the five new items are blue with silver accents, which was intend-ed to give them a high-tech feel.

caroline Pieper-vogt, senior vice president of group business development, termed the ini-tiative “a reinvention and reintroduction of key [clarins] men’s products.

“men’s skin care is advancing,” she said, “and men’s knowledge of skin care is advancing.”

the products’ primary packaging features a clear outer layer and either light or dark blue inner layers, a combination meant to lend depth to the appearance of the items.

the seven-year-old clarins men collection features 19 stockkeeping units, including the new range, which is segmented into products for younger guys and more mature men.

For the younger demographic, there are revitalizing gel, 50 ml. for $36, and anti-Fatigue Eye Serum, 20 ml. for $29. and for more mature men, there are Line control Balm and cream, both 50 ml. for $52, and Eye Balm, 20 ml. for $35.

“revitalizing is for maintenance for the younger set in their 20s and 30s,” said Pieper-vogt, while the line-control items are geared more toward “men concerned with aging, in their 30s, 40s and 50s.”

the products were designed with a bevy of ingredients such as bison grass, which is said to provide “stimulating and comforting effects,” according to the firm’s marketing ma-terials, and purslane, which is used to soothe and soften the skin. galanga is employed to also purportedly stimulate the skin. ginkgo biloba is said to “minimize the appearance of dark circles and puffiness around the eyes.”

the spring launch will see the new clarins men items reach shelves in about 1,200 stores, including Saks Fifth avenue, macy’s, Bloomingdale’s, nordstrom, dillard’s and Belk, as well as clarins’ three spa-boutiques in new york city.

an international rollout is to coincide with the u.S. launch. to support the introduction, some 200,000 samples of the product will be disseminated in u.S. stores and online.

— Matthew W. Evans

Expansion in the Works for Makeup Artist

Clarins’ Facial Quintet

men’scorner

Clarins’ newest men’s

product.

17WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2009

18 WWD, friDay, february 13, 2009

The Beauty Report

L’OREAL GETS CENTRIC: L’Oréal USA has established a new distribution arm, SalonCentric, which will be comprised of L’Oréal’s distributorships, including Maly’s, Beauty Alliance and Columbia Beauty Supply. Paul Sharnsky, former senior vice president and general manager for the Professional Products Division (LPPD), has been promoted to president of SalonCentric. SalonCentric will be headquartered in Clearwater, Fla. Also within LPPD, Pat Parenty, senior vice president/general manager for Redken, has been named brand president, LPPD. Parenty will assume full responsibility for all LPPD brands including L’Oréal Professionnel, Kérastase, Matrix, PureOlogy and Redken, and will report to new LPPD president An Verhulst-Santos. Karen Fuss-Zipp, most recently senior vice president of marketing for Redken and PureOlogy, has been promoted to vice president and general manager, U.S., for both brands. Shae Kalyani, most recently vice president, Integrated Communications for Redken and PureOlogy, is now vice president, marketing, U.S., for the brands.

PHARMACA PRES: Mark Panzer has been named the president of Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy Inc. He was most recently chief operating officer of the Boulder, Colo.-based company, a role he will retain along with the new position. Panzer joined Pharmaca after serving as the chief marketing officer and senior vice president at Rite Aid Corp. Pharmaca operates 23 pharmacies in Colorado, California, New Mexico, Oregon and Washington.

NEIL GEORGE: Beverly Hills-based salon Neil George is expanding its hair care collection with the launch of three new styling products: Detangle Nourishment Spray ($24), a leave-in conditioning and protectant spray; Indian Gooseberry Treatment Oil ($42) for dry and damaged hair, and leave-in Volumizing Spray ($24) for fine hair to add lift to the root area. Items enter stores in March, including Space NK @ Bloomingdale’s.

KLORANE TARGETS U.S.: Klorane, the leading hair care brand in European pharmacies, has just landed online distribution at Bloomingdale’s. In its quest for a bigger slice of the U.S. pie, the Pierre Fabre-owned brand is launching the Papyrus Milk Anti-Frizz range, which uses ingredients from Eastern Spain to smooth and protect hair. There’s a shampoo, conditioner and leave-in formula, each with papyrus milk, that will sell for between $13 and $18.

RUSK GOES GREEN: This April Rusk is launching two heat appliances that have been designed to help reduce consumers’ carbon footprint. There’s the Str8 Iron, which features ceramica-coated paints, a phalate-free power cord and an energy-saving hibernate mode that cools down the iron after 10 minutes of idleness. The Blow Dryer uses 23 percent less energy with equal performance to original dryers, low wattage and soy ink on packaging. Each will sell for $135.99 and will be available at Ulta stores and salons nationwide.

KMS MOVE: KPSS Inc. has relocated the headquarters of its hair care brand KMS California to Studio 1452, a 7,500-square-foot facility containing offices, a salon and a training academy in Santa Monica, Calif. Studio 1452 will also house the Western sales divisions for KMS California and Goldwell, another KPSS-owned hair care brand. Studio 1452 was designed by Los Angeles-based architecture firm Narduli Studio and constructed by Hinerfeld-Ward. Mary Freeth, vice president of international marketing, heads the KMS California corporate team at Studio 1452.

COIFFEUR FOR A CAUSE: Sam McKnight is putting himself on the block. Appointments with the reputed hairstylist, together with those of other beauty professionals, are this month being auctioned in aid of the children’s cancer charity CLIC Sargent and the Alzheimer’s Society in the U.K. Manicure maven Marian Newman, colorist Gary Burke, a fashion stylist and a photographer will also offer their services as part of McKnight’s pampering package, which is dubbed Sam McKnight HairCare. Sealed bids for five appointments will be accepted between Feb. 10 and 17 via [email protected]. Sessions with McKnight et al will be held in London’s Spring Studios in March and April.

THE RIGHT NOTES: Musical chords and fragrance accords worked in harmony in London earlier this month. Prestige fragrance brand Clive Christian hosted the final of The Sound of Perfume, which saw students from the Royal College of Music compose classical works inspired by three of its scents. Ikuyo Kabayashi’s composition dubbed Stay Gold, which was meant to recall the No. 1 fragrance, was the overall winner, while Erick Flores’ The Last Rose of 1872 and Vlad Maistorovici’s Transcent, inspired by the 1872 and X scents, respectively, also took home cash prizes as contributions toward their studies.

SNIPPETS

Despite Disappointing fourth-quarter re-sults (see story below), revlon inc.’s first half is off to a busy start as the company focuses on revving up its prod-uct portfolio, particularly in color cosmetics.

the firm is launching two new lines under the revlon brand, Matte Collection, which is a color makeup range, and Crème gloss, a lip gloss line, both of which are meant to play up the brand’s authority on color, said elizabeth Crystal, senior vice president for revlon and almay Color Cosmetics. as part of that effort, revlon is also introducing 15 new trend-driven shades in its core nail franchise.

With a rollout that began last month at food, drug and mass chains, revlon’s 28-stockkeeping-unit Matte Collection offers items for the face, eyes and lips. Designed to give women a luxurious modern matte finish that isn’t cakey, the lineup includes lipsticks, blush, eye shadows

and eyeliners, all in vivid runway-inspired hues. items in the line retail from $4.99 for eye shadow to $9.99 for eyelin-er. Lipsticks are at a suggested price of $6.99. Matte, which will be supported by print ads featuring Beau garrett, could bring in as much as $20 million in first-year sales, said industry sources.

allan Mottus, a beauty industry consultant, said Matte’s pricing structure seems to be in line with where the consumer is now, noting that retailers will likely take the srp down $1 to $2. “the consumer doesn’t necessar-ily want to spend $9.99 for products anymore. What is happening is revlon is going in at a moderate price be-cause of the recession.…the revlon people are shrewd enough to figure that out.”

the Matte Collection was used on models at Diane von furstenberg’s spring show last september — a feat made possible by revlon’s recently appointed and first-

ever global artistic director, gucci Westman, who worked von furstenberg’s show.

“With gucci as our consultant we’ve really gone back into our color stories,” said Crystal. “she brings the world of fashion to our consumers.”

also new to revlon’s portfolio for the first half of the year is its Crème gloss collection, a new line of lip gloss in “megawatt” color, pumped with collagen and vitamin e to give lips a fuller and softer appearance. the collection boasts 15 modern shades of gloss, which retail for $9.99. to represent this extreme shine collection, halle Berry will be appearing in print and tV advertising.

the company is also throwing its weight be-hind another major new product—the revlon pedi-eXpert, a pedicure kit that hit stores in December . it retails for $9.99.

Leveraging its age Defying franchise, revlon has also introduced its new age Defying spa foundation and Concealer, which infuses stone therapy minerals and vitamin C designed to energize and brighten the skin. the lineup includes eight shades and is available at all major mass and drug retailers nationwide. the foundation retails for $13.99. additional revlon launches include a new Liquid eye pen and Brow enhancer under the brand’s Colorstay franchise, as well as a blush, bronzer and defining water-proof mascara within revlon’s Beyond natural collection.

— Gillian Koenig

shares of reVLon inC. sLuMpeD nearLy 17 per-cent, and hit a new 52-week low, following its disclosure thursday of a 72.3 percent drop in fourth-quarter profits, but the cosmetics firm, boosted by a one-time gain from the sale of an asset, managed to finish the year in the black.

for the three months ended Dec. 31, revlon’s profit was $11.3 million, or 22 cents a diluted share, versus $40.8 million, or 80 cents, in the year-ago period. per share amounts have been adjusted to reflect the firm’s 1-for-10 reverse stock split of Class a and Class B common stock in september 2008. operating income fell to $44 million from $79.3 million, with the decline driven by increased advertising costs to support new product launches.

sales for the quarter fell 10.5 percent to $334.2 mil-lion from $373.3 million. in the u.s., sales fell 7.5 per-cent to $199.6 million from $215.8 million. gross margin declined 40 basis points to 62.2 percent of sales from 62.6 percent in the year-ago quarter.

international sales declined 14.5 percent to $134.6 million from $157.5 million, which the company said was “entirely due to unfavorable foreign currency fluc-tuations.” excluding the currency impact, sales outside the u.s. were essentially flat, inching up 0.2 percent as higher sales for revlon and almay color cosmetics were offset by declines in hair care and fragrance.

shares of revlon finished the new york stock exchange session at $3.75, off 76 cents, or 16.9 percent. Before the close, they set a new 52-week low of $3.70. their 52-week high, set two weeks after the reverse split on sept. 30, was $14.85.

for the year, profit was $57.6 million, or $1.13 a di-luted share, against a loss of $16.1 million, or 32 cents, in 2007. results in 2008 includes a $45.2 million gain on the sale of discontinued operations. sales were down 1.5 percent to $1.35 billion from $1.37 billion.

“overall during the year, we improved our operat-ing margins, generated positive free cash flow and net income from continuing operations and improved our

capital structure by reducing debt by $110 million,” said David Kennedy, president and chief operating officer, during a conference call to Wall street analysts.

he also noted growth in the revlon brand in the face seg-ment was driven by three product launches in 2008: revlon Colorstay Mineral foundation, revlon Custom Creations foundation and revlon Beyond natural Makeup.

alan ennis, chief financial officer, noted that “in-creased net sales of revlon brand color cosmetics were offset by declines in net sales of almay.”

Kennedy told WWD that “almay, overall, is a healthy brand,” and will have product launches in the face and eye segments during 2009.

“if we cut through all of the things that cloud the re-sults, mass market color is still growing,” said Connie Maneaty, analyst at BMo Capital Markets. “sales at mass are better than at department stores or even at direct [to consumer]. revlon gained market share in categories where they put advertising money, such as face, which rose nicely. the brand is holding its own and gaining where they have a story to tell and tell the story. as for almay, it is a profitable brand.”

the company had an $168.6 million borrowing ca-pacity at the end of last year, comprising $126.8 million available under its revolving multicurrency facility and $41.8 million of cash and cash equivalents. revlon does not have any debt maturing in 2009.

ennis did note on the call that cash contributions to the pension and post-retirement plans in the new year will be $25 million to $30 million, compared with $12.8 million in 2008, with the impact due in part to the declines last year in the financial markets in the u.s. and around the world.

— Vicki M. Young

Revlon Ramps Up Product Pipeline

Revlon’s new items for 2009.

Revlon Shares Fall on 4th-Quarter Profit Drop

For more on Revlon’s recent business news, see WWD.com.

19WWD, friDay, february 13, 2009

The Beauty Report WWD.COM

NEW YORK — There’s an 80-20 rule in mass market cosmetics that Grant Berry, founder of Styli-Style, is about to shatter.

The theory that 20 percent of the inventory produces 80 percent of sales isn’t realistic anymore, Berry suggested. It isn’t because the sales ratio has changed — rather it’s because retailers can’t justify having a majority of stockkeeping units that don’t sell. In a less competitive retail land-scape, merchants could afford to offer the wide array of colors and brands to prove they “were in the business.” Now, every stockkeeping unit has to sell itself and the name of the game is managing inventory and boosting turns. Berry has edited his own mix by 33 percent, from 177 sku’s to 119.

He credits drug chain powerhouse CVS with giving him the new direction and sku performance after working with the chain’s executives on programs over the

past two years. The lean and mean Styli-Style is more focused on the core and briskest sellers. But

another outcome, Berry said, is that the pared-down line is easier for retailers to ac-commodate and fit into stores for tests. Styli-Style is carried by chains including CVS, Rite Aid, Duane Reade, Fred Meyer, HEB, Navarro, Harmon/Bed, Bath & Beyond, Pharma Plus and 1,500 over-the-counter beauty supply stores. There are also more than 30 international distributorships in Europe, the Middle East, Asia and Oceania.

While Berry said it is too early to have a number on the productivity of the re-duced mix, he expects a “serious increase in turn.” He added, “That is our goal and is vital for retailers in this present economy.”

Products are organized under function, such as 24-hour power items, which include a new Line & Seal 24 Twist pencil, Liquid Liner 24, Nano Liner 24, Flat Liquid Liner 24 and a Flat Liner 24. Also under the 24-hour franchise is a new Browtint, a Brow Liner and a unique Shadow 24 with a cream-to-powder formula in a pen form. Another classification includes Special Effects items such as a new Liquid Glitter, Liquid Metal for eyes and four shades of Colorlash mascara. Styli-Style was the creator of the flat pencil, which remains a staple for many makeup artists and a favorite of consumers for its ease of creating a line around eyes.

Blendable Innovations with mineral therapy is where items such as Kajal Bullit, The Original Flat Pencil and a new Smokey Eyes pencil are

grouped. While many beauty companies make minerals a major story of their lines, Berry has added them as an enhancement.

Finally, Styli-Style is making an all-out assault on the lip category. “Matte looks are growing and we have a new Timeless Lipstick Demi-Matte,” said Berry. Not only does the item provide a stylish matte look, he said, but it also uses ingredients to moisturize and rejuvenate lips. There are new formulas for the Lip Stains and new Plastique Lipglosses

for those who still prefer a glossy look. “We’ve added holistic ingredients to our lip products, which make you feel good and look younger,” said Berry.

Styli-Style always has been known for its impactful displays as much as its items and Berry is introducing a fresh concept he calls Styli Pods.

The pods are the actual displays with the items that can be popped in and out of the display, and Berry calls them more dramatic than universal fixturing sets for the peg wall. They can be placed on a counter as a prepack or inserted into towers that can be in-line or freestanding. A spinner rack is also available to hold multiple pods. Berry feels the pods are easier for consumers to shop, and simple for retailers to use. “We’ve also designed them to have more room to convey the product func-tion, and the testers and item numbers are very visible,” Berry explained.

Styli-Style Highlighting Top-Performing Items

criticalmassFaye Brookman

byA visual for Styli-Style.

By Andrea Nagel

FOR PEOPLE WHO CRAVE customization in their beau-ty regimen, Bath Junkie is the store for them.

The do-it-yourself bath product store, which loose-ly follows the “add this, don’t add that” concept of ice cream chain Cold Stone Creamery, opened late last month on 227 Mulberry Street in SoHo.

The outlet, the country’s 68th location, grabs curious passersby with its to-the-point name, which for bath lovers brings to mind imag-es of thick gels, coarse salts, exfoliating scrubbers and an endless option of scents.

But unlike other bath emporiums, Bath Junkie allows customers to customize their products by scent and color. Clear packaging allows for formulas to be seen and ultimately displayed in one’s bathroom or vanity without the heavy hand of branding, save for a small nod to the company’s name on products.

First, a customer chooses what kind of product they want to create, whether it be a Walnut Scrub for the face or body, or a Hair and Body shampoo. Then, the customer is steered toward the fragrance bar, where there are more than 200 oils to mix and match. After selecting a scent, she heads to the mixing bar, where the virgin formula is poured into a large steel mixing bowl, and the selected oils are added. Natural-based food coloring is blended in to the customer’s desired shade, products are then scooped up and poured into containers, then packaged with matching tissue paper and bows.

Founded by a mother-and-daughter team, Judy Zimmer and Jocelyn Murray, respec-tively, the first store opened as Soap Opera in 1996 in Fayetteville, Ark., where the two hail from and continue to call home.

A name change ensued as expansion and franchise opportunities came into play and

stores now can be found in Texas, Louisiana, Washington, New York, Florida, California, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Missouri, Colorado, North Carolina, Alabama and Mississippi along with Puerto Rico. About 64 are franchised locations; the rest are corpo-rate stores. Franchises cost about $110,000 to $210,000 to buy, depending on location and include fixturing, lights, merchandise, signage and the like. Stores average about $180,000 in sales per year.

Most locations are in malls and high-end shop-ping destination areas, such as Park Meadows Center in Lone Tree, Co. Strip centers tend to be avoided.

“We want a high-end shopping place, like the

Hamptons, or high-traffic tourist venues,” said Zimmer. The New York store is owned and op-erated by Judy Zimmer and sister-in-law, Betty Zimmer, and measures about 900-square feet. Stores average about 1,200 square feet.

Customers, said Murray, tend to be loyal.“Once they use our products it’s where

they go to get them again. People don’t come here for the packaging.”

Formulas are free of parabens, alcohol and mineral oil, as well as sulfates, said Murray, who designed the line because of her own highly sensitive skin. They source their prod-ucts from various U.S. suppliers who special-ize in natural manufacturing in the U.S., and use a chemist, who wound up buying a fran-chise, to make sure all formulas are safe.

Bath Junkie also stocks makeup by The Balm, cut slices of soap by Nikki’s Naturals, home cleaning products line Domania, as well as branded products for men. Murray, a for-mer member of the California-based comedy troupe the Groundhogs, had earlier dreams of landing comedienne and acting gigs.

Now, in her retail and manufacturer life, she gets her creative juices flowing by writing the breezy copy on Bath Junkie’s containers.

LESS IS MORE WITH SAMY SALON SYSTEMS.In what is emerging as a company strategy, the Tampa, Fla.-based

hair care maker is downplaying the showman who helped catapult the brand into thousands of mass market stores in 2005 and instead is let-ting Esencia — its newest line, one that takes a natural positioning with organic ingredients — speak for itself.

Known simply as Samy, the Cuban-born hairstylist grew to fame in 2000 with his powerful hairstyling pitches on HSN. Today, the company has an estimated $65 million in retail and TV sales. The fact that Samy is now tak-ing a backseat — promotionally at least — to let his newest line take cen-ter stage, could signal a switch for the brand: Last year when he launched Istyle, a line of styling products, the focus was also on the product’s name, followed with “by Samy” in a smaller font. Samy items have traditionally emblazoned products with the Samy name on the packaging.

According to Sam Menaici, the company’s chief executive officer, “We want the lines to stand on their own merit. We want the consumer to understand that the brand we are launching is a problem-solution product brought to the market with the credibility of the hairdresser.”

Esencia is a result of a challenge made by Menaici to Samy who saw an opportunity in the mass market with a naturally positioned line.

“I challenged Samy and Sara [Samy’s sister who works as executive vice president of the company] to come up with a line that was natural and that worked. I wanted it to be as natural as possible, have certified organic ingredients and it had to work.”

Subsequently, each item in the line is infused with a naturally de-rived fragrance and organic ingredients that are key to each products’ performance. A placard on the back of products lets users know exactly what is in each item and what each is designed to do.

Products include White Lotus Hydrating shampoo and condition-er, which use barley and nettle for moisturization and frizz control. Mandarin Citrus Volumizing Shampoo contains horsetail and wheat to address fine hair. A Coconut Conditioning Treatment uses shea and sweet almond to moisturize and strengthen hair. Rosemary Natural Hairspray, with flax seed and jojoba, uses pine resin and flax seed for hold, jojoba for moisturizing and rosemary extract for shine.

Items sell for $7.99 each.Esencia by Samy is currently rolling out to Rite Aid and Walgreens

stores, more than 10,000 units, and is estimated to generate about $25 million in sales in its first year. To get consumers to try the products, each shampoo and conditioner item is accompanied with a “Try Me Free” mail-in rebate. Styling items have a $3 mail-in rebate.

A print advertising campaign has been created, which is slated to appear in magazines with a natural beauty bent.

For now, the line will be merchandised within the main hair aisle, as opposed to natural care sets that certain retailers, such as Target, have created. The reasoning behind this, said Menaici, is that the brand is looking for the general market consumer who has not yet gravitated to shopping natural sets.

“She’s still shopping the main hair care aisle, at least at this point,” said Menaici.

— A.N.

Product to Become Star at Samy A Bath Shop for Beauty Junkies

The fragrance

bar at Bath Junkie.

PHOT

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Jafra Sees Opportunity in Asia

Ricky’s Pulls Out Big Guns for Salons

The HBA Report WWD.COM

Jafra CosmetiCs international inc. has chosen a new chief executive officer, friedrich Kroos, from its own ranks.

Kroos joined the Westlake Village, Calif.-based direct seller as senior vice president of worldwide operations and business development in 2007 after 12 years at the Vorwerk & Co. KG, Jafra’s parent company, in various manage-ment positions. the native of Germany replaces frank mineo, the former worldwide president of Blyth-owned candles and accessories company Partylite, who helmed Jafra for about a year before exiting last summer.

Kroos will report to Vorwerk’s ex-ecutive board and is the latest of sev-eral executive appointments at Jafra. last year, Connie tang, formerly vice president of special markets at BeautiControl, was named president, and Janice Jackson became senior vice president and chief marketing of-ficer following stints at alticor, avon Products inc. and the Boots Co. llC.

an early focus for Kroos will be in-troducing Jafra Cosmetics, which oper-ates in 24 countries, to asian markets. “Have a look at other direct-selling companies — they are doing incredibly well in asia,” he said.

Kroos views the troubled world economy as a comparable advantage for Jafra. “normally, the direct-selling busi-ness has its biggest opportunities when other industries struggle,” he said. “We offer flexible income opportunities that

make people really interested.” Kroos pointed out that Jafra recently

has enlarged its sales consultant force from 500,000 to 550,000. Jafra sells 517 products globally, with $38 elasticity recovery Hydrogel, $42 time Protector Day and $20 royal almond oil being among the most popular in the U.s. “if confidence in our brand is given, we can turn this so-called crisis into a great opportunity for our business,” said Kroos, who added that he expects Jafra to experience growth in all its markets this year.

annual turnover at Jafra hit nearly $593 million in 2007, the latest year for which data is available, up around 5 percent. Vorwerk, a Germany-based, family-owned household appliance direct-selling specialist that generated $3.2 billion in 2007 sales, bought Jafra in 2004 for an undisclosed sum from Clayton, Dubilier & rice inc., a new York private equity firm that acquired Jafra from the Gillette Co. in 1998.

Kroos commended Vorwerk for its commitment to Jafra, signified by a $35 million investment that the par-ent is making in a 253,620-square-foot manufacturing facility set to open in Querétaro, mexico, in october. “it shows the confidence from the share-holders and the management board in the expansion of this business,” he said. “it will position us well in [terms of] quality, performance and cost to be competitive in the market.”

— Rachel Brown

HairstYlists mattHeW PreeCe and Kristoff Ball are living many em-ployees’ dream — they have returned to a place where they toiled for years and taken over.

that place, fred segal Beauty, has been transformed into Preece & toff salon and spa at fred segal in santa monica, Calif. its new co-owners, whose shared résumés list Chris mcmillan for art mix the salon, Giuseppe franco salon, art luna salon and Privé, as well as a joint stretch at fred segal Beauty, aspire to restore the venue to its previous glory and develop it to be among the elite l.a.-area salons.

“We are basically bringing Beverly Hills to here, and the standard of work is super high,” said Preece. “We are trying to build Preece & toff and make it a big, big brand and get as many locations as we can. instead of starting with a small salon and then coming into fred segal with the flag-ship, we are starting with the flagship.”

the salon’s look reflects Preece’s and Ball’s interest in music — they’ve been in their share of bands — and spirituality. the open, contemporary space, with contrasting dark wood floors and white walls, is decorated with a large Buddha, leafy plants, prints from shepard fairey’s roxy music series, Jackie stanton’s artistic ode to the Clash’s “london Calling,” and soon a work by graffiti artist nick Walker.

Preece & toff currently has 14 chairs, but the number could increase to 20 as the stylist ranks fill up. Preece estimated that the salon would generate $1.7 million in revenues by the end of this year, a pace that would make it profitable after around six months in business. once it is fully staffed, he projected Preece & toff will hit $3.5 million to $4 million in revenues annually with a single location. future locations could be on the slate two to five years from now, and a product line is also in the plans.

the anticipated revenues won’t put Preece and Ball into the earnings terri-tory of their clients, who include life coach tony robbins, infomercial pioneer Greg renker, and singers and actresses Gwen stefani, ashley tisdale, Pink and Paris Hilton. still, the prices for Preece’s and Ball’s cuts and highlights — $200 and $250-plus, respectively — are nothing to sneeze at, although they both insist money doesn’t fuel their drive to grow Preece & toff. simply put, Ball emphasized he wants to be recognized for “happy, pretty people” exiting the salon and spa after their services.

— R.B.

riCKY’s — tHe sPUnKY, irreverent new York beauty chain — is having another go at the salon business.

since its inception near-ly 20 years ago, ricky’s has carried a broad array of professional hair care prod-ucts, but its current salon concept, called revolver, aims to lend credibility to its aisles of hair-related merchandise.

one of the first revolver salons is housed in ricky’s newly opened outpost lo-cated at 2906 Broadway at 114th street, a stone’s throw from Columbia University. two others are located at ricky’s 124 Crosby street and 111 third avenue stores, and another is slated for ricky’s lone store outside the new York metro area, in miami.

the 300-square-foot revolver salon replaces ricky’s initial in-store salon con-cept, called shears, Hustle and Blow, which was introduced in 2007. the concept folded after the partner involved parted ways with the retailer.

ricky’s chief executive officer, Dominick Costello, said the latest incarnation is ripe for all 22 ricky’s locations, which dot manhattan, long island and Brooklyn.

“[revolver] is a good fit for us because it gives us credibility with our custom-ers,” said Costello. it also legitimizes the sale of professional salon products, he acknowledged.

Beauty devotees have come to recognize ricky’s as the go-to retailer for diffi-cult-to-find hair care products such as Kérastase shampoo and elnett hair spray, a staple backstage at fashion shows. Costello said that, a decade ago, ricky’s sourced many of these goods from the gray market. now, it buys about 90 percent of the 15,000 items it carries directly from the manufacturer, he said.

inside the Upper West side ricky’s, which opened Jan. 30, the two-chair revolver salon is located at the back of the spacious, 29,000-square-foot store — past displays of foot Petals shoe inserts, spanx hosiery, ricky’s private label hair and bath accessories and an assortment of fekkai salon Color kits.

Patrons with a valid student iD are given a 10 percent discount on services, which average $50 to $60 for a haircut or $25 for a buzz cut, said andrew Curran, manager of revolver salons. other services include highlights, starting at $125; cus-tom color (in bright, punk-rock shades), and keratin treatments, starting at $225.

the target audience for revolver mirrors ricky’s customers, who buy every-thing from natural baby products to neon wigs there.

“it’s your typical ricky’s client, which is everybody,” said tommy Kim, ricky’s creative director. He added that ricky’s hopes to use the space as a learning annex of sorts for stylists, and to host free salon classes there.

the eclectic beauty chain, which is estimated at $40 million in size, also is flirt-ing with the idea of opening stores in major college towns, said Costello. as for courting shoppers during a recession, he said: “our prices run from about $1.95 to $199.95. that’s who we are. We offer a range of price points.”

— Molly Prior

tHere’s a YoUnGer CoWBoY saUnterinG into stetson’s WorlD. stetson all american, aimed at men from 25 to 35, is intended to add young-

er customers to the venerable brand’s stable. it will hit mass-market counters in march.

“stetson is the number-one mass brand in the U.s., but its consumer is 35-plus,” said steve mormoris, senior vice president of global marketing for Coty Beauty. “We decided to use this moment to come up with a fragrance that extends the brand’s reach, and maintain its leadership. We see the all american man as an adventurous, rugged, masculine man who is a risk taker. this project broadens the brand’s boundaries.”

the new scent, concocted by firmenich’s Harry fremont, is an aromatic woody. its top notes are of cedar leaf, guava and gingerroot; the heart includes black suede, sage, nutmeg and fern water and the drydown is of amber wood, vetiver, patchouli and musk. “We think this olfactive direction makes sense for younger consumers,” said mormoris. Packaging also takes a more youthful turn, he added. “We’ve used new color coding and a new shape — all american has a rounded cobalt bottle with a silver cap bearing the stetson name. the carton is cobalt and silver with red accents.” not to completely depart from the original stetson, the outer box features stetson’s classic crest, he added.

the range comprises cologne sprays in 0.5 oz., 1 oz. and 1.7 oz. sizes, retailing for $14.50, $19 and $26, respectively. they will be available in Coty Beauty’s full

mass distribution — about 25,000 food, drug and mass market stores.

tom Brady is the face of the brand. Print ads, shot by Peggy sirota and featur-ing the footballer engaging in various thrill-seeking pursuits, will begin run-ning in march magazines. Given the scent’s younger positioning, stetson all american will have an ex-tensive internet campaign, mormoris said.

While mormoris refused to discuss sales projections, industry sources estimated stetson all american could do upward of $20 million at retail in the U.s. in its first year on counter.

— Julie Naughton

Salon Fills Fred Segal Beauty Spot

Coty Scent Shoots for Younger Man

Ricky’s Revolver

salon.

Matthew Preece and Kristoff Ball

The All American Stetson scent.

phot

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oye

WWD.COMWWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2009 21

By Joanna Ramey

Struggling California retailerS faCe a temporary one cent sales tax increase as part of a deal to close the state’s $42 billion bud-get deficit and break a 14-week legislative deadlock.

the sales tax boost would be combined with a 5 percent surcharge on personal income tax, an increased gasoline levy and higher fees, as well as widespread spending cuts. the taxes would expire in two years, but voters could choose to extend them.

However, corporations that don’t have out-of-state facilities would receive a tax break. they would have the option of changing how they calculate their state taxes, choosing to be taxed on sales only, instead of a formula based on size of payroll, sales and California property they own.

industry executives and economists said the spending agreement was positive news for the troubled economy of the most populous state and might have a slight trickle-down effect at the cash register.

“psychologically, just getting a deal signed will help,” said ilse metchek, executive director of the California fashion association. However, metchek said the sales tax increase could also drive consumers to shop online, where sales from out-of-state retailers aren’t taxed.

California’s bond rating has fallen to last place nationally, which means the state is unable to easily borrow money to operate. State government workers are being furloughed without pay for two days a month, bridge and road construction has been halted and funds for schools and universities have been cut. the state has suspended tax refunds and payments to ven-dors. the unemployment rate is 9.3 percent.

“there’s been much chaos,” said Jack Kyser, senior vice president and chief economist with the los angeles economic Development Corp. “With a budget agreement, at least there is some certainty, even though the solution is going to cause pain for consumers and businesses,”

the sales tax would rise to 9.75 percent in los angeles County, 8.75 percent in San Diego and 9.5 percent in San francisco, which is considering another half-cent increase to close an estimated $576 million city budget deficit.

the federal government’s $789 billion economic stimulus plan could offset some of the cuts in the form of job-creating projects. However, Kyser said, “the economy will continue to struggle into 2010 and more budget problems will crop up.”

Jon Havemen, a partner in Beacon economics in San francisco, said a 1 cent increase in the sales tax would have a “negligible effect on con-sumer spending.”

“the issues facing retailers in this economy are so much more than a 1 cent increase in sales tax,” he said.

the legislature is expected to vote on the tax today.

FASHION SCOOPSSales Tax Hike on Tap in Calif. SO HAPPY TOGETHER: They say people come closer together during tough times and designers are no exception: There seem to be more fashion and accessories collaborations this season than ever before. Bylu did jewelry for Geren Ford, while Dannijo will bejewel Trovata’s looks and Lee Angel designer Roxanne Assoulin has teamed up with friend Brian Reyes for his runway show. French engineer-turned-jeweler Hervé Van der Straeten has lent his golden geometric necklaces, bracelets and earrings to Ruffian and Garrard will outfit Marchesa’s runway with precious jewels (designer Georgina Chapman will likely return the favor as she is designing a capsule jewelry collection for the house to debut in September). Bulgari is thinking pink with its pink sapphire and diamond suite for the Barbie show on Saturday — the necklace alone has 103.12 carats of sapphires. CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund chums Richard Chai and Irene Neuwirth are at it again this season, with Neuwirth’s intricate gemstone brooch and waterfall earrings. Tiffany Tuttle of LD Tuttle has created footwear for the shows of Victoria Bartlett of VPL and Matthew Ames, respectively, while Robert Clergerie is providing all the footwear to the Threeasfour show.

SWEET CHARI-TEE: Donna Karan has a strong social conscience and, for fall, the designer and her DKNY team have cooked up a special scheme. DKNY’s 20th anniversary celebrations continue this season, and at Sunday’s runway show, every guest will receive a T-shirt featuring an illustration of a “DKNY Girl.” The T-shirt’s back will feature information on five different charities: The Fund for Public Schools, City Harvest, The Doe Fund, Cityarts and Donna Karan’s Urban Zen Foundation. Guests can e-mail [email protected] to pick their favorite one, and DKNY will make a donation on their behalf. Those who didn’t make it to the show can buy the $65 T-shirt at DKNY stores, select stores that sell DKNY and dkny.com next fall. The hangtag will list the same charities, and buyers can log on to the brand’s

Web site to make their pick.

DENIM LINK: Madewell wants to further its audience. The J. Crew-owned brand is collaborating with Shopbop on a limited edition premium

denim collection under the Madewell for Shopbop label. “The same girls shopping us are shopping Shopbop,” said Kin Ying Lee, design director for Madewell. “We see it as the go-to denim destination.” The collection starts selling Feb. 20 on Shopbop.com, in select Madewell stores and on madewell1937.com. “We worked with Shopbop to create a denim-specific collection inspired by our workwear heritage,” explained Gigi Guerra, director of brand marketing for Madewell. There’s a vintage feel to the Madewell for Shopbop collection, which consists of ex-boyfriend and vintage flare jeans, both priced $200; a station skirt, $130; switchyard shorts, $130; a dispatch vest, $125; a workwear jacket, $138, and a boiler suit, $125. “Shopbop.com picks different brands that we want to align with — brands that embody our same spirit and sensibility — yet introduce us to new and fresh demographics,” said Erin Crandall, head buyer for Shopbop.com. The collection is the site’s first full-fledged design collaboration and Madewell’s first project with another distribution channel.

DKNY’s “Chari-Tee.”

Madewell for Shopbop’s boiler suit.

WWD.COMWWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 200922

Continued from page oneexiting at a time when major specialty stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York and Bergdorf Goodman are dramatically cutting inventories and the number of designers they carry. And as the fall season of runway shows officially kicks off today at New York Fashion Week, the bad news for the more than 200 designers showing is that there are fewer and fewer stores for them to sell.

Georgina catered to Long Island’s wealthy Gold Coast and South Shore crowd and was known for carrying such lines as Michael Kors (which it carried exclusively on Long Island before Kors opened his own Manhasset boutique); Zac Posen; Dolce & Gabbana; Peter Som; Proenza Schouler; Christian Cota; Valentino; Giambattista Valli; Andrew Gn, and Celine. The store fell victim to the market crash and slowdown in luxury spending, and its owner blamed major stores’ exces-sive markdown activity last fall for ac-celerating its demise.

“When Saks and Bergdorf Goodman played their game and dropped 70 percent off in the season, they ruined it. No one wants to pay retail anymore,” said Christina Georgina Makowsky, owner of Georgina.

“There’s nothing to be happy about in retail now. The luxury market has been devastated,” she said. “It’s because of the economy. I don’t believe that going forward, it’s the right place to put your money. I don’t feel comfortable. People’s mind-sets are changing, and my mind-set is changing. There are more intelligent ways to spend your money. I’m going to take a time out and reevaluate retail.”

Michael Kors, for one, is upset about the store’s closing.

“Christina Makowsky exemplifies luxury retailing by balancing fashion and newness while always keeping an eye on her clientele and their lifestyle,” said Kors. “Georgina has been very in-fluential in bringing a big city sophis-tication to the New York City suburbs. She and her team have been remark-able partners and champions for over two decades. The closing of the store marks the end of an era.”

Shirley Cook, chief executive officer of Proenza Schouler, had been doing busi-ness with Georgina’s Manhasset store for the past year. “She [Makowsky] has been a great client, and it’s an amazing store. It’s very sad to see. They took so many risks, worked with young designers, styled their stores and pushed fashion concepts, and now they’re closing.”

Makowsky, who was called by one competitor “a fabulous merchant who carries of-the-moment” clothing, along with her business partner Tony Scardino, operated the Hewlett store for 28 years, and the Manhasset boutique (across the street from the Miracle Mile) for 17 years. Some 17 employ-ees will be affected by the stores’ closing.

“I love design and I love fashion, and I’m not making peo-ple happy anymore,” said Makowsky. “They’re nervous and it’s not fun.” She said she’s well aware of how to ride out a recession and has done that twice in her career, but “This is not a recession to me. It’s a new day and new way of life. I wanted to end on a high note.”

Georgina manufactures its own private label collection, ranging from swimsuits to ballgowns, under the store’s name, which Makowsky is considering continuing.

A few high-end specialty stores continue to weather the storm on Long Island, namely Hirshleifer’s in Manhasset; Shari’s Place in Great Neck and Julianne in Port Washington, which opened in 2007 after retailer Janet Brown’s death, and

is managed by her former right-hand person. But there’s no question the challenges are formidable.

Shari’s Place, a 30-year-old boutique, ran ads in The New York Times last Sunday and Thursday promoting spring mer-chandise at 30 percent off — and the merchandise had just arrived on the selling floor.

“We’re hanging in there,” said Shelley Hirshleifer, vice presi-dent of Hirshleifer’s, the 100-year-old designer emporium in Manhasset known for selling such collections as Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and Balenciaga. She said the store is coming up with innovative ways to entice the customer, such as teaming up with American Express to offer double points for any Chanel purchase with an Amex card.

Because major stores marked merchandise down so early last fall, Hirshleifer’s had to start its sale two weeks earlier. “We don’t like to because a department store does,” she said.

Lori Sills Hirshleifer, vice presi-dent, said the store is reducing its buys for next fall. As she goes through the market, she said people aren’t panick-ing. “Everyone’s very cautious. It’s a difficult time to be spending money on a buy. I don’t know what will happen this spring. We have been seeing some life the last few weeks.”

She said she felt badly about Georgina’s closing. “It’s sad. It’s very unfortunate that the small guy has to suffer for what’s going on,” said Sills. She said the large stores can ask ven-dors for markdown money, but it’s more difficult for the small specialty stores.

Randi Newman, who manages Julianne, said the store is holding its own and she’s been fortunate because Janet Brown had a loyal customer base, many of whom are now shopping at Julianne. “I cannot sit still and I go to my customers,” said Newman. “There is no evening business, and I’m selling timeless pieces.” Among her lines are Lanvin, Prada, Marni, Dries von Noten and Martin Margiela.

Elsewhere in the tri-state area, Mary Jane Denzer, owner of the 30-year-old eponymous high-end boutique in White

Plains, N.Y., called business “very tough.”“The customer, even if they have the money to spend for

the clothes, feels very guilty. They’re not spending right now. There’s too much uncertainty,” she said.

Denzer decided to change its merchandising strategy this season. “My feeling is this season is geared to special occa-sions. I put my money in a very different direction. The store is completely ‘go somewhere’ to a luncheon, Bar Mitzvah, wedding, a party. There’s very little sportswear. It’s a better way to merchandise the store right now. People are not going to pick up a luxury sweater or jacket.”

She said last fall she sold a customer a dress for 20 per-cent off, and Barneys had it for 75 percent off. But the cus-tomer kept the dress, because she’s been a loyal customer.

She said the business is running “way behind last year.”“But I’m going to stay alive no matter what. Anybody

who tells you business is great is not telling you the truth. Everyone’s in a state of shock and they’ll get out of it. I think it’ll pick up after the February holiday. I hope so.”

Scott Mitchell, vice president of Richards of Greenwich and Mitchells of Westport, Conn., a 50-year-old specialty store, said, “We’re still buying and we’re still out in the mar-ket. And we’re continuing to go forward. We’re still looking at the same designers and new designers. We went high-end because our clients wanted it.”

By Liza Casabona

WASHINGTON — Retail sales showed some re-silience in January, but economists expect more tough times ahead for merchants.

Sales at specialty stores in January in-creased 1.6 percent from December, as de-partment store sales slipped 0.3 percent for the month, the U.S. Commerce Department reported Thursday.

Compared with a year ago, specialty store sales fell 10.3 percent to $17.2 billion and department stores declined 6 percent to $16.1 billion.

All retail and food service providers re-ported a seasonally adjusted increase of 1 percent in January versus December to $344.6 billion, beating expectations for the month. Monthly sales declined 3 percent in December. Compared to the previous year, however, over-all sales were down 9.7 percent in January.

“It’s nice to see [retail sales] steady, nice to see it beat expectations, but as long as unemployment mounts we have to be braced for more bad news on consumer spending,” said John Lonski, chief econo-mist at Moody’s Investor Services. “Maybe consumer spending has dropped so low it’s not surprising we’re beginning to form a bottom. However, the outlook for retail sales remains treacherous as long as un-employment soars.”

In a separate report released Thursday, the Department of Labor said new unem-ployment claims continued to be above 600,000 last week, indicating the employ-ment picture is not improving.

“The best that we can hope for from this report is that retail sales are starting a bottom-ing process over the next several months, with alternating sequences of positive and negative reports,” said Brian Bethune, chief U.S. finan-cial economist at IHS Global Insight.

Despite the slight monthly uptick in sales, the year-over-year comparisons were still dismal, said Lonski, and overall retail sales “have incurred a drop of unprecedented depth” over the last 12 months falling an average of 0.9 percent each month. Month-to-month comparisons in 2009 should be easier, but the negative trend in year-to-year comparisons will continue for the first half of 2009, he said. Yearly comparisons should improve by the fourth quarter.

Charles McMillion, president and chief economist at MBG Information Services, said seasonal adjustments and lackluster sales in November and December distorted the January results.

“Today’s report should not have been unexpected and it is not good news for re-tailers, producers or for the broader econ-omy,” McMillion said.

Rosalind Wells, chief economist at the National Retail Federation, said, “While 2009 got off to a surprising start, it’s going to be difficult for retailers to maintain this momentum. We expect the first half of the year to present challenges, while giving way to sustained growth in the fourth quarter.”

December sales were also revised down in this month’s report, Bethune said. The bump seen in January was “surprisingly robust for a number of key categories” in-cluding apparel, Internet purchases and general merchandise, and it was most like-ly fueled by bargain hunting, he said.

“For the department stores and apparel there was extreme discounting, which brought a lot of bargain shoppers into the equation,” said Richard Yamarone, director of economic research at Argus Research Corp.

That might have been good news for consumers, but it is terrible news for re-tailer profit margins and stock perfor-mance, he added.

Any long-term recovery in retail sales would depend on the fiscal stimulus pack-age pending in Congress, the economists said. Components of the plan, like tax-re-duction incentives, might encourage con-sumers to spend more than normal during the recession, they said, and could fuel an improvement in the second half of the year.

By Matthew Lynch

IN A DECISIoN 10 YEARS IN THE making, a federal jury on Wednesday awarded 25 garment workers almost $600,000 and found New York-based clothing maker Liberty Apparel Co. Inc. liable for wage and labor violations by its subcontractors.

The case is believed to be the first in which the question of whether a manufacturer is responsible for con-ditions at its subcontractors’ facilities was put to a jury.

The workers, all of whom worked at Manhattan factories used by Liberty, filed the complaint in 1999. They alleged that Liberty and their

subcontractor employers failed to comply with minimum wage laws and did not provide overtime for working, in some cases, more than 94 hours a week.

Liberty argued that it shouldn’t be held solely responsible because com-pany representatives spent little time in the factories and the laborers also did work for other manufacturers.

“The victory in this case was not only the amount of money but also that this case is going to affect every single shop in the garment industry,” Ling Nan Zheng, one of the workers who brought the suit, said through a translator.

The workers and their supporters

appeared at a news conference at the Chinatown offices of the Chinese Staff & Workers’ Association on Thursday, a day after a jury awarded $598,333 to be divided between Zheng and her co-plaintiffs.

“My client has serious concerns as to how a decision in this case could affect the garment industry in the en-tire country,” said Vano Haroutunian, an attorney for Liberty Apparel, its owner Albert Nigri and the other defendants. He said his clients were withholding further comment until a judge ruled on post-trial motions.

The plaintiffs’ attorney, James Reif, commended his clients for sticking with the case through the years. In 2002, a federal judge sided with Liberty Apparel. The workers won an appeal in 2004 but the case did not go to trial until last month.

Retail Sales Rise, Tough Road Ahead

Independents Vanish From Retail Landscape

Workers Win Subcontractor Case

The Georgina boutiques in Hewlett and Manhasset, N.Y.

The Georgina boutiques in Hewlett and Manhasset, N.Y.

For more on the closing of iconic retailers, see WWD.com.

ISSUE DATE: APRIL 13

CLOSE: MARCH 18

THE MOST DEFINITIVE WRAP-UP

OF THE ENTIRE COLLECTION

SEASON FROM HEAD TO TOE

For more information on advertising, contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher, at 212.630.4737.

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WWD.COM24 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2009

MEMO PAD

Media/Advertising

By Marcy Medina

LONG BEACH, Calif. — The annual Technology Entertainment Design (TED) Conference here may be the last place one would expect to see Gucci Group president and chief executive officer Robert Polet and Gucci America president Daniella Vitale, but both were on hand to host a luncheon on Feb. 5.

As with most Gucci events, there were notables in the crowd such as Cameron Diaz, Meg Ryan, Forest Whitaker, Darryl Hannah and mogul Jean Pigozzi, several of whom were attending the five-day, in-vitation-only conference that took place Feb. 3 to 7.

But even though Polet opened the event by saying, “We are the creators of desire and design. The core of TED is creativity and innovation, which Gucci and fashion stand for as well,” the crowd was there not to toast a new accessory or clothing collec-tion but to listen to a panel of documen-tary filmmakers that included Ben Affleck, Rory Kennedy and Abigail Disney.

The luxury brand funds documen-taries through the two-year-old Gucci Tribeca Documentary Film Fund, which provides finishing grants to filmmakers whose work brings to light socially con-scious topics often absent from main-stream media. Seven projects were se-lected last year from a pool of 450, and the funds were administered through the Tribeca Film Fund.

“Gucci’s heritage is interlinked with cinema and the film industry. We are inspired by every genre of film. Documentary filmmaking is a much-needed voice but is often overlooked in support, and we are fortunate to have the ability to fund several projects,” said Vitale.

Certainly cinema luminaries such as Affleck — who produced the war journalism documentary “Reporter,” which premiered at this year’s Sundance Film Festival — have acted as producers on such projects for years.

Oscar-winner Whitaker, who produced last year’s Tribeca Film Festival docu-

mentary “Kassim The Great,” said private funding is the key to getting such projects made, especially in this economy.

“Documentary a very underfunded genre. It doesn’t require the same amount of funds as a feature film, but it requires human currency. I know people who have film footage sitting around for years with no way to complete it,” said Whitaker. “These are people working with no resources, using their own money and credit cards. [The Gucci Tribeca Film Fund] allows them to finish, which is the hardest part.”

Despite the recession, Vitale said Gucci was committed to continuing its support of the arts.

“All companies are obviously being more prudent in the current climate. Gucci is no exception, but we still believe in remaining committed to causes we have supported over time. We also think this is in keeping with the general move toward greater so-cial responsibility among individuals, cor-porations and institutions.”

Certainly most documentaries are not made for box office profit, though some can be megahits, like Michael Moore’s “Fahrenheit 9/11,” which grossed over $100 million world-wide and cost only $6 million to make.

But according to Tribeca Film Institute co-chairman Jane Rosenthal, a documentary’s success is usually measured on intangible levels. “Did a film teach an audience mem-ber to be more compassionate to a neighbor? Did someone learn about the struggles or tri-umphs of a person just like them from a place they will never get to go? Or about a culture that stereotypes had previously been clouding the truth?,” she said.

Rosenthal pointed out that with main-stream news outlets slashing funding, the topical issues that documentaries can bring to light become even more important. “The incentive Gucci provides to filmmakers is monumental. It signals our support and belief for the work that they do,” she said.

As Affleck pointed out during the panel, “It is a challenge to get people to pay at-tention to issues that are uncomfortable to watch. I’m trying to finesse that paradox. Documentaries can work by telling stories and communicating with people.”

Gucci Stands Behind Documentary Films

Ben Affleck, Rory Kennedy and Abigail Disney with Daniella Vitale.

STEPPING DOWN: Walter Anderson, chairman and chief executive officer of Parade Publications, is retiring. Anderson, 64, has spent 31 years at Parade, where, during his tenure, circulation for the paper increased to 33 million from 21.6 million. Parade is now carried in 470 newspapers. Anderson was also responsible for attracting a stable of top writers to the publication, including David Halberstam, Norman Mailer, Gail Sheehy and James Brady.

“Walter has played a major role in Parade being one of the most successful publications in the company while publishing books, writing plays and being an active public servant,” said Condé Nast chairman S.I. Newhouse Jr. “We will miss him tremendously but wish him all the best in what I’m sure will be a very fulfilling retirement.” Anderson joined Parade as a senior editor in 1977, became editor in chief in 1979, and chairman and ceo in 2000. He will stay with the company until his replacement is named.

According to a Condé Nast spokeswoman, “The company is interviewing a number of highly qualified candidates.” Sources close to Parade say the candidates are both inside and outside Condé Nast. But insiders are already buzzing about a possible one — Richard Beckman, Condé Nast chief marketing officer and president of Condé Nast Media Group. Insiders believe Beckman, who’s run the corporate sales group for more than four years, is angling for a larger executive role at the company. They also speculate he could be searching for a new challenge given that two of his main projects, Fashion Rocks and Movies Rocks, have been canceled for 2009. “It’s a huge job,” said an insider of the Parade role. Anderson reported to Newhouse as ceo of Parade, and Newhouse will choose his successor. Should Beckman get the nod, the jockeying for the corporate sales post is bound to be bruising. — Stephanie D. Smith

LOVE, ACTUALLY: Never let it be said Katie Grand is one to perch on fashion’s fence. The editor of Love, Condé Nast UK’s latest title, has decided her affair with the perfect woman is over — so she’s picked the rotund gay crooner Beth Ditto as cover girl for the launch issue.

“She says the wrong things. She looks the wrong way. Isn’t it confounding and amazing to have an iconic figure…who doesn’t have a 25-inch waist?” asks Grand in her first editor’s letter. “She is happy with who she is and the way she is.”

Inside, there’s a whole new brand of celebrity confessional. Not for Ditto’s coy admission that she “battles” with her weight or was “unpopular” in high school — instead, we get: “I really, really want Lindsay Lohan to be gay,” says Ditto. “We haven’t had the hot young dyke couple before. We don’t really have the hot young boy couple either.”

This isn’t the first time Grand has worked with Ditto. In the fall 2007 issue of Pop, Grand tapped Steven Klein to shoot the singer wearing specially made outfits by designers including Giles Deacon, Louis Vuitton and Gareth Pugh.

Love, which costs 5 pounds — or a little over $7 at current exchange — hits newsstands on Feb. 19. The launch issue also includes a Bruce Weber shoot with Iggy Pop; an interview with Anjelica Houston, who is photographed by her stepson Terry Richardson, and a chat with the British model and actress Kelly Brook.

Advertisers include Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Cartier, Burberry, Gucci, Tom Ford, Marc

Jacobs, Miu Miu, Dior Jewlery, Stella McCartney and Dolce & Gabbana. There are 116 ad pages in the 336-page launch issue.

Like with Grand’s former venture Pop, which Emap plans to relaunch later this year, there’s a retail component. For one week, starting on Valentine’s Day, there will be a Love In at Dover Street Market in London. The store will sell limited edition clothing and accessories from brands including Burberry, Chloé, Dolce & Gabbana, Gap, House of Holland, Katie Hillier, Loewe, Luella, Prada and Stella McCartney.

Stella McCartney, Prada and Burberry have all designed underwear; Chloé has come out with customized handbags and belts; while Luella and Henry Holland have each created T-shirts. There will be Loewe nappa leather cushions featuring “I Loewe you” embossed in gold, and silk dresses from Victoria Beckham. — Samantha Conti

PROJECT BLOGGER: Last season, Time Style & Design editor Kate Betts tapped Isaac Mizrahi and Joel Stein to guest blog for the magazine during New York Fashion Week. This year, she’s enlisted “Project Runway” season four winner Christian Siriano to blog with her on time.com. Siriano, known for his sharp-tongued commentary on fashion and his competitors, will squeeze in blogging for the site as he preps for his second official collection, which will be shown Thursday. Time Style & Design will also feature backstage photos from British

photographer Andrew Lamb and videos by Betts and Siriano. — S.D.S.

ON SECOND THOUGHT: Condé Nast has pulled the plug on its upcoming launch of Glamour Japan as it seeks to cut costs and wade through the financial crisis. “The only reason for this is the economy,” said Kazuhiro Saito, president of Condé Nast Japan, who added the concept and mock-ups for the new title were “perfect.” About 10 employees, including editor in chief Sayumi Gunji, are affected by the decision, but some will likely be placed elsewhere within the company. Glamour Japan would have entered the country’s crowded field of mass-market fashion magazines including AneCan, Oggi, Sweet and Glamorous. — Amanda Kaiser

GET ME MAKEUP!: At a lunch to honor Evelyn Lauder and mark the 15th anniversary of her Breast Cancer Research Foundation, many in the room had fond memories that included, but weren’t limited to, Lauder’s advocacy work. In her toast, co-host and Self editor in chief Lucy Danziger recalled getting taken out to lunch by Lauder at the Four Seasons soon after taking over the magazine. ‘You’re not wearing enough makeup,’ Lauder exclaimed, pulling out a kit for a touchup. Also at the Four Seasons that day were Danziger’s then-boss, Steve Florio, and Lauder’s husband Leonard, who dryly remarked Estée Lauder hired people to do that kind of thing.

The intimate lunch at Rouge Tomate was also hosted by Glamour editor in chief Cindi Leive and Allure editor in chief Linda Wells, with guests including Lesley Stahl, Ann Curry, Nora Ephron and Gayle King. Katie Couric popped in later to get the latest on cancer research from the foundation’s Dr. Larry Norton. — Irin Carmon

WWD.COMWWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2009 25

Polished, Commercial Looks Highlight Berlin Fashion WeekBy Melissa Drier

BERLIN — Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin found German designer labels countering recessionary wor-ries with an extra dose of fashion for next fall.

MBFWB ended a solid fourth round here Feb. 1, ce-menting Berlin’s position as Germany’s fashion window. While not necessarily representative of Berlin — half of this season’s official 24 participants are not headquartered in the capital — the shows offered a broader-than-ever view of style trends coming out of Europe’s biggest market.

Yet surprisingly, perhaps, given the city’s much-hyped reputation, the fashion view from Berlin is more commercial than avant-garde. That’s lead to some gripes on international blogs. But if not startlingly original, the majority of the collections shown here exhibited more polish, chic and fashion savvy than ever. Not only at-tractively ready-to-wear, the best were ready to retail — not an unwelcome attribute in troubled economic times.

A case in point was the Schu-macher collection. Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, Schumacher made its Berlin run-way debut doing what it does best: playful, imaginative and lovingly de-tailed apparel in the season’s must-have shapes. That meant sheer silk blouses with softly puffed sleeves and the biggest bows in town, to wear under little brushed mohair coats or cuddly cardigans, and pants that ranged from lean with satin sheen, to Seventies twills and cropped boy-girl styles. Silk charmeuse dresses played with draping effects; parachute silk or crepon shifts made an airy impact under big, open knit cardigan coats; tailored jackets were anything but classic, as in one cropped, funnel-necked number in camel wool gath-ered at the waist with a bow.

The same held for Strenesse Blue, where Victoria Strehle delivered an-other upbeat style statement for fall. Color packed a punch, with vivid shades worked almost tone-on-tone. But the real strength was in the mix: rugged goatskin vests or Mongolian lamb chubbies over print crepe de chine dresses, a thin wool turtleneck sometimes layered underneath. Heavy turtlenecks topped fall’s short, soft pencil skirt in printed velvet, or cozy, tweedy mohair knits offset sheer printed silk georgette blouses and patterned minis. There were structured shearling or felted wool bustier minis, on one hand, and soft new pantsuits, such as tailored knit suits with jauntily cropped pants, or a trim black crepe blazer paired with short, Punjab-inspired jersey bottoms on the other. Completing all the looks: anklets, winter sandals or ankle boots, and oversized bags in Mongolian lamb or velvet.

Mongolian lamb, goat and skins of all sorts definitely had their day in Berlin and provided some of the most popular women’s pieces at Boss Black. Notable were a three-skin coat of fluffy goat, lamb and astrakhan-looking cowskin; a goat-skin coat with solid wool sleeves, or fur chubbies that neatly broke the line of slim, wool pencil skirts. Indeed, there was a new feminine softness at Boss for fall, with dress-es in more fluid fabrics, as well as a less man-tailored take on nine-to-five dressing.

The Boss Black show in the Berlin Botanical Garden’s imposing tropical plants house was a once-in-a-generation occasion, as the 100-year-old glass structure is emptied only every few decades for restoration. As for the men’s wear in the show, the main collection borrowed a surpris-ing amount from the group’s edgier Hugo range. The look was strictly and dramatically pared-down, and there was a short, sharp-shouldered, narrow-lapel silhouette.

In one of the season’s most convincing shows, Joop,

under the design direction of Dirk Schönberger, also went lean and mean. And even a little naughty, with fetish-inspired leather, PVC and wet-look materials fea-tured for men and women. The show, which was held in the Hamburger Bahnhof contemporary art museum, used a runway coming straight out of what looked like a hole blasted in the wall — just as the collection decided to blast into traditional tailored looks.

There was nothing soft about this collection, with its sharp silhouettes, throat-choking collars, buttoned-up shirts and outerwear layered under men’s sport coats and suits. One runway tactic that struck a definite chord: the sleek, almost neoprene-looking leather turtlenecks that peeked out of more respectable shirt-and-tie com-bos, though the swinging cape-style jackets might have a harder time hitting the streets.

For the women, a simple black coatdress was made

edgy with leather-trimmed shoulders and leather leg-gings. And shift dresses were anything but innocent in shiny black crocodile skin or dull silver leather.

Tough luxury was the name of the game for Michalsky’s femme fatales, while his men showed a touch of rough proletarian chic. The Berlin-based designer upped the fabric ante for fall, turning jeweled and colored floral lace into leggings paired with a crisply tailored white jacket.

A skin-tight metallic leather jumpsuit was ready to rock and the silver gray satin, lace-topped gown looked red-carpet bound. But the piece de re-sistance, especially given the show’s church venue, was Michalsky’s stained glass print featured in legging-tight pants for guys and gals, men’s blousons and a Swarovski crystallized gown, on its own or under a black leather blou-son with lace-up sleeves.

Fabric also set the tone at Berlin’s Sisi Wasabi, where designer Zerlina von dem Busche used explicitly old-fashioned textiles like dotted organza or satin jacquard for cool, dressy clothes for thirtysomethings. The shapes were long and linear or graphically round, and despite their intricacy, von dem Busche kept novelty fabrics and treatments like handcrafted leather or organza mille-feuille skirts in check by using the simplest of bodices or tank tops.

Lala Berlin by Leyla Piedayesh was all about juxtaposition as well. While it’s quite a challenge to make S&M-inspired fashion seem homey, her mix of fetish leather and cud-dly, patchwork or open crocheted knits managed to make cardigans sexy and leather leggings seem like a comfortable option.

Markus Lupfer’s trademark em-broidered T-shirts and jerseys and reinvented sweaters were pre-sented in a still-life display amidst the faded baroque grandeur of the Kronprinzenpalais, while Bernhard Willhelm opted for a surreal tab-leau vivant of his Seventies skiwear-inspired collection. Also of note: Marcel Ostertag’s contemporary Munich glam; FelderFelder’s embel-lished leathers; Peek & Cloppenburg Designer for Tomorrow student com-petition winners Julia Knüpfer’s di-mensional knits and Joel Horwitz’s directional sports textiles, and the historical fantasies of Berlin design-ers Constanze Gonzales and Paul Scherer. After starting off with wear-able tweed coats and suits, Scherer Gonzales ended with a muted brown parade of bustled, corseted and pet-ticoated gowns that looked as if Mae West had stumbled into a gothic novel. At the sight of the final gown, which involved a heavy snail train the size of a small car, the audience couldn’t help leaving with a smile.

Despite scheduling conflicts with Düsseldorf that moved the Premium Trade show up by a day, as well as concerns over retail travel budgets, Premium also closed its fall edition on a positive note. The organizers said 16,837 trade visitors attended the three-day show, compared with 16,354 visitors a year ago.

A number of new designers and companies, who sent representa-tives to check out the action here this season, said they are already planning their Berlin entry next sum-mer. Moreover, the news of Bread & Butter’s return to Berlin next July, as well as its no-holds-barred party/presentation at the future venue,

Tempelhof Airport, also gave a big jolt to the Berlin buzz. While Bread & Butter’s chosen July 1-3 dates caused some initial concern, given the previously announced mid-July slot for Premium and MBFWB, Premium has officially said it will work with all parties to determine a joint July date. While IMG wouldn’t comment for the record, sources say the organizers of MBFWB are also committed to a combined Berlin effort next season.

— With contributions from Damien McGuinness

Lala Berlin

Boss Black

Strenesse Blue

SchumacherJoop

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• ARMANI TAPS DOSI: Giorgio Armani SpA has appointed Fabrizio Dosi as chief ex-ecutive officer of Giorgio Armani Hong Kong Ltd. Dosi, who was previously gener-al manager of the company’s Asia-Pacific region, assumed his new post on Feb. 5. Dosi’s responsibilities are extended to the Greater China area. The executive will re-port to John Hooks, Armani’s deputy man-aging director and group commercial di-rector. The Hong Kong branch previously had two divisional general managers, one for Greater China (China, Taiwan, Macau and Hong Kong) and one for Asia-Pacific (all of East Asia except for Greater China

and Japan, excluding Australia).

• REDCATS APPOINTMENT: PPR named Jean-Michel Noir as the new chairman and chief executive officer of home shop-ping giant Redcats, succeeding Thierry Falque-Pierrotin, who stepped down last year. Previously, Noir was chief operating officer of the Vivarte Group, a retailer that operates such chains as Kookai and the footwear specialists Minelli and André. PPR chairman and ceo François-Henri Pinault said Noir’s entrepreneurial na-ture, determination and open-mindedness “persuaded me of his capacity to lead Redcats Group through a new cycle.”

WWD.COM26 WWD, friDay, february 13, 2009

IN BRIEF

Financial For full daily stock changes, see WWD.com.

0.18 0.18 Gottschalks (GOTTQ) - 7999 0.18 50.00

2.44 1.97 New York & Co. (NWY) 7.9 1407246 2.22 16.84

0.84 0.75 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 31489 0.79 12.86

1.14 0.90 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 321210 1.14 11.76

1.62 1.3 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) - 2881463 1.5 11.11

0.40 0.37 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 159714 0.40 10.78

6.95 6.03 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 7.1 100729 6.84 10.68

6.51 6.02 Ann Taylor (ANN) 9.5 3456739 6.46 9.12

4.56 4.11 Perry Ellis (PERY) 3.4 71609 4.51 7.89

2.99 2.66 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 373576 2.94 6.52

10 BEST PERfORmERS DAILY COMPANIES P/E VOLuME AMt

HIgH LOw LASt %CHANgE

8.29 7.25 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 8.6 11167329 7.79 -23.70

0.33 0.29 Phoenix footwear (PXG) - 1700 0.29 -17.14

4.41 3.70 Revlon (REV) 2.2 322571 3.75 -16.85

0.73 0.58 General Growth (GGP) 3.1 5160575 0.62 -8.82

0.32 0.31 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 3.4 36807 0.31 -8.15

11.56 10.24 True Religion (TRLG) 6.9 678793 10.78 -7.23

7.92 7.35 Hanesbrands (HBI) 6.0 2482232 7.49 -7.19

0.28 0.26 fredericks of Hollywood (fOH) - 14580 0.26 -7.14

1.60 1.30 Parlux fragrances (PARL) 20.9 154467 1.35 -6.25

4.46 4.05 CBL (CBL) 9.1 1522406 4.28 -6.14

10 WORST PERfORmERS DAILY COMPANIES P/E VOLuME AMt

HIgH LOw LASt %CHANgE

By Evan Clark

INVESToRS STRuGGLED To FIND their footing Thursday and pushed re-tail shares down 0.1 percent as concerns about Washington’s bailout for banks out-weighed news that January retail and food service sales rose a seasonally ad-justed 1 percent from their poor showing in December.

Nearly coming back from larger de-clines earlier in the day, the S&P Retail Index dipped 0.21 points to 267 as the Dow Jones Industrial Average slid 0.1 percent, or 6.77 points, to 7,932.76.

Shares of Pacific Sunwear of California Inc. rose 11.1 percent to $1.50 as the company’s management continued to be needled by would-be suitor Adrenalina Group, which said it intends to nominate four directors to the specialty retailer’s board. Adrenalina owns 2.1 million shares, or about 3.2 percent, of PacSun.

Adrenalina’s chairman and chief executive officer, Ilia Lekach, sharply criticized PacSun’s leadership as he dis-closed his intention to nominate four new directors to the firm’s board. Reached by

phone, he said the names of his nomi-nees would be forthcoming. Last year, the three-door Adrenalina tried and failed to acquire the 932-store firm for $5 a share.

In a letter dated Thursday to Sally Frame Kasaks, chairman and ceo of PacSun, Lekach wrote: “We cannot afford, nor can your shareholders afford, to sit idly by while the company, under your command, contin-ues to destroy shareholder value and cause its very existence to be threatened. We hereby demand your immediate resignation from Pacific Sunwear, which is imperative for the company’s survival.”

A call to PacSun seeking comment was not returned Thursday afternoon.

Most specialty players were up, with some of the strongest increases from New York & Company Inc., advancing 16.8 per-cent to $2.22; Eddie Bauer Holdings Inc., 12.9 percent to 79 cents; Charming Shoppes Inc., 11.8 percent to $1.14, and AnnTaylor Stores Corp., 9.1 percent to $6.46.

In the first trading day after report-ing an 84.6 percent drop in first-quarter net income, Gildan Activewear Inc. saw its shares go into a 23.7 percent tailspin, finally closing down $2.42 at $7.79.

Stocks Seesaw as Investors Weigh News

* Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros.

Administrators Appointed for IttierreBy Andrew Roberts

MILAN — Italy named three administra-tors for IT Holding SpA’s production and licensing unit Ittierre SpA on Thursday and tasked them with safeguarding the future of the company.

Italy’s Minister of Economic Development Claudio Scajola appointed lawyer Stanislao Chimenti, accountant Roberto Spada, and Bain & Co. partner Andrea Ciccoli.

“[Their] task…will be to resolve the cur-rent moment of crisis and to restructure the company in a way that allows it to grow again in a sector, which is fundamental for Made in Italy and for our country’s pres-ence in world markets,” Scajola said.

Ittierre, which operates under license the Just Cavalli, VJC Versace, Versace Sport, C’N’C Costume National and Galliano labels, filed for bankruptcy pro-tection on Monday, after running out of

cash. It employs 772 staff and accounted for 65 percent of IT Holding’s turnover in 2008 and 77 percent of earnings be-fore interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization, according to investment bank Mediobanca. The business is also the most profitable part of IT Holding.

The fashion group, which also owns the Ferré, Malo and Extè brands, has warned it could follow its subsidiary into admin-istration as Monday’s decision triggered a clause allowing bondholders to call for im-mediate repayment of a 185 million euro, or $239.1 million, bond, due 2012.

As reported, according to financial sources IT Holding has sent out a dos-sier to potential investors hoping to so-licit bids for part or all of the group. A European fund is already eyeing knit-wear label Malo, sources said, while Doha, Qatar-based fund Abu Issa Holding has reportedly expressed interest in Ferré, IT Holding’s marquee label.

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